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TRAVEL<br />
THE<br />
GENEVA<br />
DIARY<br />
Skip the tourist traps and live like a local in one<br />
of the richest cities in the world<br />
Words by Varun Godinho<br />
ST. PIERRE CATHEDRAL<br />
If you’re flying into Geneva, your aeroplane will land<br />
in France and taxi into Francophone Geneva.<br />
Switzerland and France share the airport, runway<br />
and a history too that’s joined at the hip.<br />
Geneva wasn’t always the placid lakefront city that it is<br />
today. It was the seat of unrest during the 16th century with<br />
the rise of Calvinism and the social upheaval that resulted in<br />
its wake. The French Huguenots brought the know-how of<br />
watchmaking to Geneva during those tumultuous times, but<br />
it was perfected to an art form by the indigenous population<br />
who couldn’t farm during the winters and had to spend all<br />
their time indoors. Today, Geneva’s ground zero to some of<br />
the most venerable names in watchmaking from Vacheron<br />
Constantin to Patek Phillippe.<br />
You’ll notice primarily two types of visitors that come to<br />
Geneva. The first are the pin-striped suit elite ready to do a<br />
day’s business in one of the world’s richest cities which has a<br />
private banking system so secretive that you have a better<br />
chance of finding out whether aliens reside at Area 51 than<br />
knowing the names of its account holders. The second are<br />
the ski-set that head straight to the outskirts of the city to the<br />
mountain ranges that line the valley.<br />
If you’re a wide-eyed tourist and belong to neither of the two<br />
groups, you’re likely ready to soak in the city sights and patisserie<br />
smells that seems to waft through every alley in the city.<br />
The city is best enjoyed on foot. You can start by walking<br />
the length of the Promenade du lac Léman with the lush<br />
garden to one side and the lake to the other – the Jet d’eau<br />
fountain pushes132 gallons of water up to a height of 459ft<br />
every second is one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks.<br />
Stray from the waterfront and cross the road and into the<br />
intersecting alleys to eventually wind up at St. Pierre Cathedral<br />
in the old town of Geneva. Make sure you walk up the 150-<br />
plus steps of the tower to enjoy a panoramic view of the city.<br />
Geneva is old-moneyed and discreet – there’s none of the<br />
flash cash and the abrasive attitude among locals or<br />
establishments in the city. The vibe is warm, never pretentious.<br />
Geneva is used as the staging ground for diplomatic back<br />
channels which explains the presence of permanent outposts<br />
of international missions including the UNHCR (you can book<br />
a tour of the facility), WTO and the Red Cross. It is also where<br />
some of the world’s biggest expos are held. Come January and<br />
the sprawling Palexpo plays host to the annual Salon<br />
International de la Haute Horlogerie, the world’s most<br />
prestigious watchmaking exhibition. Every other March, the<br />
same venue hosts the Geneva Motor Show.<br />
There’s Zurich, Lucerne, Basel and Biel/Bienne. While each<br />
has their charms, it’s the cosmopolitan cultured powerhouse<br />
of Geneva that steals the show. If you aren’t fortunate<br />
enough to be born a Swiss citizen, it takes up to 12 years of<br />
residency to become one and even that doesn’t deter the<br />
multitude determined to call Switzerland home. A visit to<br />
Geneva can answer why.<br />
62<br />
EQUITY