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Tokyo Weekender - September 2017

Autumn eyes: Harajuku lashes and more tips from a/w17. GACKT: "There's an emptiness in people's hearts". Find your "ikigai": What makes you get up in the morning? Plus: "Life in transit" photo story, osaka on two wheels, the tokyo café serving prophecies, and ufc's big comeback.

Autumn eyes: Harajuku lashes and more tips from a/w17.
GACKT: "There's an emptiness in people's hearts".
Find your "ikigai": What makes you get up in the morning?
Plus: "Life in transit" photo story, osaka on two wheels, the tokyo café serving prophecies, and ufc's big comeback.

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SANJO AND TSUBAME: SPICE IT UP<br />

Metalworking regions Sanjo and Tsubame are known for their hearty meals meant<br />

to feed hardworking craftsmen. As such, this stand’s lunch options are guaranteed<br />

to give you the energy to power through the rest of your day. The Kouba Bento<br />

changes weekly, giving guests the chance to find a new favorite. The seabura (back<br />

fat) ramen, despite its name, has a surprisingly delicate and light flavored soup to<br />

balance out its coarsely chopped noodles. For dinner, Sanjo-grown turmeric takes<br />

center stage with appearances in spicy chicken wings and a spicy cheese gratin.<br />

More robust fare, like black pork gyoza and kurumafu (a wheat gluten and flour<br />

dish), are well-matched with the local craft beers available. Among<br />

the offerings are pilsners from Echigo Beer, Japan’s<br />

first microbrewery, and Niigata Beer<br />

pale ales.<br />

MURAKAMI: SEASONED SERVINGS<br />

Visit the castle town of Murakami in winter and you’ll be met with rows of salmon hanging<br />

from rooftops across town. The area’s specialty, shiobiki dried salmon, finds its place in an<br />

aged shiobiki dried salmon bento in this stand’s lunch menu, alongside Murakami’s other<br />

mainstay, Murakami beef. The beef bento is served on a bed of soft and chewy koshihikari<br />

rice from Iwafune. For dinner, try beef-on-a-stick, or a shiobiki salmon packet cooked in<br />

oil with shiitake mushrooms. For those with a sweet tooth, there’s a soft serve ice cream<br />

mixed with green tea powder and garnished with nuts, honey and a dash of salt.<br />

NIIGATA SPECIALTIES<br />

AVAILABLE FOR A<br />

LIMITED TIME<br />

TOKAMACHI: ARTFUL<br />

DELICACIES<br />

Tokamachi’s artistic tendencies aren’t<br />

reserved for their triennial outdoor<br />

art festival, they’re also present in the<br />

city’s food culture. Hegi soba, a regional<br />

specialty, is named for the hegi dish it’s<br />

served on. The noodles are made using<br />

funori seaweed, giving them a distinctively<br />

smooth yet firm texture. They are<br />

placed delicately on the hegi dish in bite<br />

size portions, making them a breeze to<br />

pick up and slurp down. Locally raised<br />

Tsumari pork has a natural sweetness<br />

that is enhanced when served with salt,<br />

green onions and a squeeze of fresh<br />

lemon. Pair either dish with a locally<br />

produced dry, crisp sake.<br />

For a flavorful feast, make the<br />

Tabisuru Shintora Market a<br />

must-visit this month as it’ll be<br />

your last chance to try these<br />

sumptuous Niigata specialties so<br />

close to home. From October, a<br />

new set of cities will showcase<br />

their wares and dishes at the<br />

market, but until then, Niigata<br />

cuisine and beverages are yours<br />

for the taking. Accompanying the<br />

stands and their appetizing eats is<br />

the Tabisuru store, with selected<br />

offerings, and the Tabisuru<br />

café that serves dishes made<br />

with Niigata-sourced, seasonal<br />

ingredients.<br />

Tabisuru Shintora Market:<br />

Jul 5-Sep 29, shop and café:<br />

Jul 5-Oct 1. Address: 2-16<br />

Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku.<br />

www.tabisuru-market.jp

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