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BUMPER 164-PAGE BIRTHDAY EDITION! MASSIVE BOARDS SECTION!<br />

SHARK!<br />

FRIEND<br />

OR FOE?<br />

...P56<br />

Byrobn Bbaya<br />

AT HOME IN THE WAVES<br />

LIVING ...P42<br />

THE PEOPLE, THE PLACE<br />

DISCOVER YOUR BACKYARD ...P78<br />

SURF SHOTS<br />

THE BEST READER PICS ...P17<br />

THE MAGAZINE FOR THOSE WHO LOVE TO SURF<br />

ISSUE #7 SEP/OCT <strong>2011</strong>


02 6680 88<strong>07</strong> / www.mctavish.com.au


DETAILS<br />

& THINGS<br />

WHERE TO PICK SMORGASBOARDER UP<br />

Quality surf stores, shapers and cool cafes within 10kms of the coast<br />

through Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia. For<br />

a full list of distributors, visit the directory in the back of the mag or just<br />

get to your local surf shop and talk to some real people, in the flesh. If you<br />

see a local store advertising, they’re sure to have the lion’s share of mags<br />

in your area. smorgasboarder is published six times a year.<br />

CAN’T GET THERE? SUBSCRIBE<br />

If you can’t get to a store, have smorgasboarder delivered to<br />

your door. The mag’s still free, but Australia Post need to get paid.<br />

$18 IN AUSTRALIA GETS YOU SIX EDITIONS.<br />

Sign up at www.smorgasboarder.com.au and wait by<br />

your mailbox. It’ll arrive every two months. Back issues are<br />

available for $5 per copy. We have limited copies left.<br />

THIS EDITION’S COVER SHOT<br />

A picture perfect moment of Byron Bay local Johnny Abegg<br />

with his friend Pinky the Sea Quad, snapped by our feature<br />

photographer, Alex Frings. For more on Alex, see Page 90.<br />

THANK YOU<br />

...to all the people who made this edition possible. Special<br />

thanks to Dean Slockee, Louise Gough, Gus Brown, Helen<br />

Chapman, Katie Swan and John Pickering.<br />

THE TEAM<br />

SALES & EDITORIAL:<br />

Dave Swan<br />

dave@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0401 345 201<br />

EDITORIAL & PRODUCTION:<br />

Mark Chapman mark@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0400 875 884<br />

SOUTH AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION & SALES<br />

James Ellis trade@ljdistribution.com.au<br />

0410 175 552<br />

CONTRIBUTORS<br />

WRITING TALENT & PHOTOGRAPHIC GENIUS<br />

Thanks to all you readers that have sent in photos, stories,<br />

ideas and more... You keep us powering on. Thanks to Brett<br />

Bam, Aimee Sics, Ben Horvath, Joel Coleman and Madelaine<br />

Dickie for the great stories and Alex Frings, Joel Coleman<br />

again, Grant Molony, Trent Dooley, Jarrod Slatter, Roie<br />

Hughes and Casey Ripper for the great photos.<br />

Ideas & submissions: editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

Distribution: mags@hugecmedia.com.au<br />

6 jul/aug <strong>2011</strong><br />

WWW.SMORGASBOARDER.COM.AU<br />

smorgasboarder is published by Huge C Media Pty Ltd<br />

ABN 30944673055. All information is correct at time of going to<br />

press. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in<br />

articles or advertisements, or unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or<br />

illustrations. The opinions and words of the authors do not necessarily<br />

represent those of the publisher. All rights reserved. Reproduction in<br />

part or whole is strictly prohibited without prior permission.<br />

We print with Pep<br />

Central and Craft<br />

Inprint Group, an<br />

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and committed printer<br />

whose business is<br />

founded upon the<br />

principles of minimising<br />

waste and maximising<br />

recycling. Nice work.


Since 1971<br />

“is what surfing is all about”<br />

www.goodtime.com.au<br />

Surf photos by Jacob Lambert<br />

Goodtime Surf & Sail<br />

29 Ipswich Road, Woolloongabba, Brisbane<br />

<strong>07</strong> 3391 8588<br />

info@goodtime.com.au<br />

JOIN US ON FACEBOOK!<br />

Come and see Gail and the Goodtime team at jul/aug the <strong>2011</strong> Gabba7


Aug 10 <strong>2011</strong>, 4:19pm<br />

Aug 10 <strong>2011</strong>, 4:20pm<br />

Aug 10 <strong>2011</strong>, 4:20pm<br />

Hey Guys, I have been dreaming<br />

of surfing South Americas pristine<br />

coastline for a while now and have<br />

decided to make it happen. Is anybody<br />

keen to join me??<br />

I have some holidays<br />

due, I’m in!<br />

Aug 10 <strong>2011</strong>, 4:21pm<br />

I have always wanted to<br />

surf Chile, me too!<br />

PH: 1300 00WAVE<br />

8 jul/aug <strong>2011</strong>


INSIDE THIS ISSUE<br />

17<br />

HEAPS OF READER<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS!<br />

Pages of your cracking<br />

pic submissions from<br />

the past two months<br />

OUCH!<br />

42<br />

56<br />

78<br />

GRAND DESIGNS<br />

IN THE BUSH<br />

We spend some time<br />

at Jed “Bushrat”<br />

Done’s amazing home<br />

SHARKS: BAD, OR<br />

JUST BAD REP?<br />

We know they’re there,<br />

but what are they up<br />

to? We ask questions.<br />

BYRON BAY ROAD<br />

TRIP SPECIAL<br />

Fun days and big nights<br />

at one of our favourite<br />

surf towns, period.<br />

ALL THE<br />

USUAL BITS<br />

THE LATEST<br />

Feedback P15<br />

And greatest P26<br />

News P32<br />

Community P35<br />

Latest local faces P48<br />

TRAVEL<br />

Visit South America P70<br />

Discover your back yard P78<br />

GEAR<br />

Byron Bay’s shapers P104<br />

Talking about blanks P132<br />

Skate P137<br />

Test everything P148<br />

<br />

CLOSEOUT<br />

Fitness P155<br />

People out and about P159<br />

Less comedy and more ‘oh crap’...<br />

Central Coast big-wave charger, Justin<br />

‘Jughead’ Alport cops a nasty little bit<br />

of underwater time. For more about<br />

Jughead, check out the story on page 50.<br />

BILL<br />

TOLHURST<br />

5’10”, 6’0”, 6’2”, 6’6” & 6’10”<br />

Photo: Grant Molony. See more at<br />

grantmolonyphoto.blogspot.com<br />

SURFTECH AUSTRALIA<br />

www.surftechaustralia.com.au<br />

mar/apr <strong>2011</strong><br />

9<br />

02 4226 1322


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YO ADRIAN...<br />

Who doesn’t love the original Rocky movie?<br />

The story of a small-time boxer who gets<br />

a once in a lifetime chance to fight the<br />

heavyweight champion in a bout where<br />

he strives to go the distance for his selfrespect.<br />

The storyline of Rocky is superb. When you<br />

strip it all back, the underlining message is<br />

about exceeding expectations. It’s a story<br />

about a simple guy who gets the chance to<br />

do something amazing, and he gives it all<br />

he has got.<br />

As we celebrate one year in the game, we<br />

do feel a little like Rocky. We love what we<br />

do and consider it an amazing priviledge. In<br />

each and every edition we give it all we’ve<br />

got, to the point of absolute exhaustion.<br />

But seeing the new mag back from the<br />

printers makes it all worth it.<br />

The good, down-to-earth feedback we<br />

receive from you guys and girls - our<br />

readers - is what spurs us on, motivates<br />

us and lifts our spirits. So, thanks to each<br />

and every one of you. You have made<br />

a difference and we appreciate it. But<br />

please, keep giving us feedback. We’re not<br />

arrogant or up ourselves and we want to<br />

keep making smorgasboarder better and<br />

better every time.<br />

And finally, a big thanks to our advertisers<br />

for getting behind us, supporting us and<br />

believing in us. Without them, we wouldn’t<br />

have a mag. So as surfers, let’s continue<br />

to ensure we keep supporting our many<br />

talented shapers and local surf shops.<br />

Yes, we made it. It’s one year on... our<br />

anniversary edition. The year has been a<br />

bit of a blur - an unbelievable journey but<br />

a hell of a lot of fun, so thanks for being<br />

along for the ride.<br />

WELCOME TASSIE<br />

Yep, the smorgasboarder family is breeding<br />

like rabbits, popping up here, there and<br />

everywhere. Welcome on board!<br />

You can now pick us up in five states and<br />

online too. Read all editions at<br />

www.smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

And if copies at your local surf store<br />

have run out before you get there,<br />

remember you can also subscribe to have<br />

smorgasboarder delivered to your door<br />

for only $18 for the year. Subscribe online<br />

at www.smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

Dave<br />

Make a wish....<br />

Cake baked by Katie Swan<br />

july/aug <strong>2011</strong><br />

11


LADIES FIRST<br />

LITTLE GIRL<br />

BIG SURF<br />

PHOTO: ROIE HUGHES<br />

THESE DAYS TEENAGER ZOE CLARKE HAS DREAMS OF<br />

COMPETITION TOUR STARDOM AND WINNING A WORLD TITLE,<br />

BUT IT ALL STARTED YEARS AGO, SURFING AT THE AGE OF<br />

FOUR, ON LITTLE WAVES AROUND TORQUAY ON DAD’S MAL.<br />

“I really always loved the beach<br />

because everyone in my family did it<br />

so I guess it just came naturally.”<br />

At age 6, Zoe started Nippers with<br />

her sisters Serena and Phoebe. The<br />

training three days a week which<br />

involved swimming in many different<br />

conditions taught her about endurance,<br />

and helped build her surfing confidence<br />

as she started testing herself in more<br />

challenging waves.<br />

“As I’ve got older and started surfing<br />

the reef breaks bigger and bigger<br />

I kinda just got more comfortable.<br />

When you’re younger you don’t really<br />

think about the consequences.<br />

“When you first get out there you<br />

don’t really know how big it is until<br />

you start getting thrashed around<br />

under the white water. In Victoria<br />

it’s pretty hard to avoid big waves...<br />

You are going to have to tackle them<br />

eventually!”<br />

In addition to the Nippers, Zoe also<br />

did squad training for swimming three<br />

times a week.<br />

“I really loved the water and just<br />

getting out there...Yeah, the only<br />

way to get better at something is to<br />

practice.”<br />

A young girl in big Victorian<br />

conditions… Surely there has to be<br />

an element of fear in there?<br />

“Fear is there to be conquered every<br />

time you surf. Every new place<br />

you surf has its perils. Surfing is a<br />

sport of personal challenges in an<br />

uncontrolled environment.”<br />

Leaving the colder climate behind, Zoe<br />

has recently moved to Queensland.<br />

“Yeah, I’ve just moved. You can spend<br />

so much more time in the water and<br />

all the surfers out there really push<br />

you because they’re some of the best<br />

surfers in the world. The waves in<br />

Queensland are smaller, but a lot<br />

faster than Victoria. The crowd also<br />

helps you to react faster and learn to<br />

get the best waves. “<br />

But it’s not just all about surfing for<br />

Zoe either...<br />

“One thing I would also love to do is<br />

help people in need. I would love to go<br />

to another country and help out people<br />

less fortunate than myself. It would be<br />

great to help them in a way that could<br />

change their life... Why not?“<br />

Exactly. Why not? Best of luck for<br />

those great future plans, Zoe.<br />

12 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


“IN VICTORIA IT’S<br />

PRETTY HARD TO<br />

AVOID BIG WAVES...<br />

YOU ARE GOING TO<br />

HAVE TO TACKLE THEM<br />

EVENTUALLY!”<br />

www.surfcomposites.com.au<br />

admin@surftechaustralia.com.au<br />

sep/oct 0<strong>2011</strong><br />

4226 1322 13


*On all orders over $50, excludes parcels over 6’10”.<br />

14 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


WINNER<br />

STUFF UP FOR GRABS!<br />

THE C-SKINS WETSUIT GIVEAWAY<br />

C-SKINS WETSUITS asked you to dig up your old wetsuits.<br />

Taking pity on the neediest owner, they offered to generously<br />

replace said suit with a brand new C-SKINS Wired S2 3x2,<br />

valued at $475!<br />

And this edition’s winner is keeping it in the family, replacing his<br />

much beloved old C-SKINS suit with a brand new one. With so<br />

many years of fun out of it, Joe’s a walking billboard for how well<br />

these suits last!<br />

“I have had my trusty C-Skins 5/3 steamer for 10 years. It’s surfed<br />

all around Europe with me and outlasted many boards.<br />

“When my family and I decided to move to Australia I thought it<br />

would be a fitting retirement for my old suit. I hadn’t counted on<br />

S.A. waters being this chilly.”<br />

Congrats to Joe from Sellicks Beach, South Australia!<br />

For more information on C-SKINS suits call 0412 081 546 or<br />

visit the website on www.c-skins.com<br />

XXX-ING MORE TO WIN!<br />

*Prize suit for illustration only.<br />

LATEST: FEEDBACK<br />

TELL US ABOUT YOUR XXX-ING SCARY SURFING MOMENT AND WIN A<br />

LONG-ARMED SPRING SUIT FROM TRIPLE X WETSUITS!<br />

THERE’S A 2MM L/S TITANIUM 3D, RRP $289 UP FOR GRABS!<br />

It may have been a big wave, an encounter with a Noah or when you have ended up<br />

accidentally surfing au naturale. If you have a Triple X moment and want to share it,<br />

or better still have photographic evidence, we want to to know about it. The winner<br />

will get a terrific Long-Arm Spring suit from Triple X Wetsuits. The hottest wetsuit<br />

you will ever wear. Send your stories in to letters@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

JOIN IN THE CONVERSATION:<br />

Email all your innermost thoughts, letters, stories, photos, praise, rants to<br />

letters@smorgasboarder.com.au or send other contribution ideas, surf<br />

photography or fantastic ideas for stories to editor@smorgasboarder.com.au.<br />

Join us on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/<strong>Smorgasboarder</strong>-Surf-<br />

Magazine/133229320054947 (or easier, just search for smorgasboarder)<br />

LOVE THY SHAPER<br />

I think we are very lucky as surfers to be able to get boards<br />

made locally, by someone with a knowledge of the waves<br />

we surf, for a price that hasn’t changed a great deal in the<br />

last 20 years. We are even more fortunate that many of us<br />

can get a board custom shaped by an ex pro surfer, in my<br />

case Glyndon Ringrose, for next to no difference in price<br />

from a board off the rack.<br />

Surfing is very unique in this regard. Can you imagine the cost<br />

of custom made equipment by a top athlete in any other sport?<br />

Support your local shapers ‘cos we don’t wanna be ordering<br />

overseas boards from a catalogue saying `remember when’.<br />

Troy, Phillip Island<br />

Mate, you couldn’t be more on the money. The more people<br />

that can see the value in supporting their local guys, the<br />

better for surfing in the long run. Plus you actually get to<br />

meet some top people in the process.<br />

R.E.S.P.E.C.T.<br />

How cool is it to be able to surf in<br />

this day and age!?! VERY cool! A<br />

lot of surfers nowadays don’t waste<br />

their time or energy complaining<br />

about bodyboarders, kneeboarders,<br />

shortboarders, funboarders, longboarders<br />

or SUPs. In many cases today’s wave<br />

riders own and use two, three or four of<br />

these surfcraft and so appreciate fellow<br />

surfers’ choice of fun.<br />

The majority of folk realise that it’s the<br />

individual and not the vehicle that states<br />

what kind of person they are. I like to<br />

think nowadays no matter what we ride,<br />

we can appreciate and respect each<br />

other as sons and daughters of Mother<br />

Ocean. Which of course, makes us all<br />

brothers and sisters.<br />

John, Gerringong<br />

*Letters may have been edited for length and clarity<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

15


Short to long, every<br />

Ron Wade Surfboard is built<br />

for peak performance<br />

Over 40 years of experience goes into every Ron Wade design.<br />

“After talking with Ron, I was<br />

confident with his 40-plus<br />

years of shaping and designing<br />

knowledge, that he could make<br />

me a board that could allow me to<br />

progress and do what I wanted.”<br />

Korey Fogden<br />

(mention<br />

smorgasboarder to<br />

get a free leggie<br />

worth $45 with<br />

a new Ron Wade<br />

board order)<br />

Korey Fogden is a rising star in the<br />

Mona Vale Boardriders Club and<br />

regularly places in the top 3 places<br />

in the under-15 yrs division.<br />

He proudly rides the 5’6” Airobatic<br />

model in smaller surf and a<br />

5’8” Blackfeather performance<br />

shortboard for bigger waves.<br />

Korey Fogden Photo: Alec Vandyke, Mona Vale<br />

SHIPWRECK MEMORIES<br />

Couldn’t believe my luck. Had two days off work<br />

during the week just before July school holidays.<br />

Got excited as the weather was favorable for surf.<br />

I hadn’t had one since before Easter. I was going<br />

to Warrnambool to visit my parents and to catch<br />

up with my brother. Been surfing with him since<br />

1970. Started surfing age 10, wearing speedos<br />

and a football jumper in winter at Lady Bay. Didn’t<br />

care what the surf was like. I would go out alone in<br />

howling onshore in freezing conditions after school.<br />

No legrope. Later, I made one from nylon cord and<br />

Mum’s stocking.<br />

Anyway, decided to go via Torquay. Brother said<br />

don’t bother, come straight here and we will go out<br />

at Port Fairy. I picked Chris up. I couldn’t believe<br />

what I saw. 3-5 ft rights, gentle offshore breeze, four<br />

guys out and sunshine. Two hours of indulgence. A<br />

guy I hadn’t surfed with for over 25 years was there.<br />

He still dropped in on me twice, but who cared. It<br />

was great surf and great company. To top it off we<br />

went out the next day and it was just as good.<br />

Then we get back and his copy of <strong>Smorgasboarder</strong><br />

arrives and there’s the article about our backyard.<br />

I began to reminisce about the early morning runs<br />

to find surf from Port Campbell through to Portland.<br />

Had a surf once in Bay of Islands. Very long paddle<br />

across the bay to a right that was peeling. I paddled<br />

so gently because I was sure a shark was going to<br />

bite me on the arse. Being so cold that you couldn’t<br />

undo your wetsuit. Climbing down cliffs carrying<br />

your board and if you fell, you would get injured.<br />

Jumping off cliffs to get into the surf and having<br />

to climb out through a blowhole to get out. Driving<br />

across farms and paddocks to get to THE SPOT.<br />

Bill, Greensborough<br />

POSTIVE OUTLOOK<br />

In the modern times of finanical hardship on<br />

the common surfer, it’s refreshing that we and<br />

foremost yourselves (smorgasboarder), lead by<br />

literary example and Australian Spirit of when<br />

times are tough you can still have a positive<br />

outlook on life.<br />

We all have hardships, but your positive stories<br />

have given this surfer a positive outlook that I<br />

now can show my kids how positive surfing is<br />

and what it means to be a surfer, through your<br />

magazine articles.<br />

Greg, Gold Coast<br />

That’s just awesome and makes all this so much<br />

more worthwhile. Thanks Greg.<br />

The Blackfeather<br />

“This board<br />

allows me to do<br />

360 degree<br />

snap turns”<br />

The Airobatic<br />

Korey’s first<br />

choice for<br />

doing the<br />

best aerials<br />

For more information and<br />

quotes, please contact us:<br />

sales@ronwadesurfboards.com.au<br />

Phone 02 9979 7<strong>07</strong>1<br />

Mobile 0410 443 776<br />

Fax 61 2 82128039<br />

Mail Mona Vale<br />

showroom,<br />

open 9-4pm Sat or<br />

call me.<br />

www.ronwadesurfboards.com.au<br />

16 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

STICK YOUR FREEBIES<br />

In a world that at times seems all too politically<br />

correct, we’re giving you a chance to win a Surf<br />

1770 ‘Stuff Work, Go Surfing!’ Surf for the Dole<br />

t-shirt by that crazy cat, Glen Cat Collins, and<br />

two blocks of Stick It wax. To win, all you have<br />

to do is email us your most memorable moment<br />

whilst being a dole-sponsored surfer or that time<br />

you told your boss to ‘Stick-it’ and went surfing<br />

instead. Email us on:<br />

letters@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

WIN


READER PICS<br />

Petra Eronen, Sawtell<br />

DIFFERENT LINES<br />

The submissions we receive for the mag keep us inspired, motivated and just plain pumped to do<br />

the next edition. We get so many incredible photos and stories from readers, it’s near impossible<br />

to decide on which ones to print... This edition, we’ve added a few extra pages in the mix to show<br />

off as many of your shots as we can.<br />

And it’s certainly not often that we get a physical letter in the mail, let alone a handrwitten one,<br />

complete with original pencil drawings, so we had to run this one by Petra Eronen of Sawtell...<br />

Thanks for putting in the effort to send it in.<br />

Over the next few pages, sit back and enjoy the inspired work and passion of your peers and<br />

friends. And if you’re also a passionate surfer with a keen eye and you’d like to see your photos<br />

or artwork appear in smorgasboarder, what are you waiting for? Send it in.<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

17


READER PICS<br />

Ben Considine puts his best foot forward<br />

Photo: Lee Considine beachcomber3.blogspot.com<br />

18 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

19


Ours? No, all yours... Brave big wave charger Evan Faulks Photo: Toby Manson<br />

READER PICS<br />

Greeny brown frothy goodness Photo: Pommielogger pommielogger.com<br />

20 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


Christian Retschlag, Currimundi cruising Photo: Brett Retschlag<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

21


READER PICS<br />

An hour from Adelaide Photo: James Ellis<br />

SA shaper Ben Wallbridge goes fishing<br />

Wurtulla walls. Photo: Paul Collins<br />

Charging knights of Newcastle. Photo: Chris Lemar<br />

22 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

23


READER PICS<br />

Awesome old-school shot of Moffat Headland by<br />

Simon Kettle. Shot on ACTUAL FILM, not an iPhone filter!<br />

Blue sky and glassy,<br />

just outside of Sydney.<br />

Photo: Ian Elliott<br />

24 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


Sri Lanka<br />

Citrus Resort<br />

Coral Sands Hotel<br />

Coral Seas<br />

Hikkaduwa – West Coast<br />

Sri Lanka<br />

Stand up for Victoria Photo: Hayden O’Neill oneillimagery.tumblr.com<br />

Ocean Dream Hotel<br />

Ahangama<br />

Unawatuna Beach Resort<br />

Galle<br />

Tri Star Hotel<br />

Stardust Beach Hotel<br />

Arugam Bay - East Coast<br />

Sri Lanka<br />

Talk to the experts.<br />

surftravel.com.au<br />

enquiries@surftravel.com.au<br />

02 9222 8870<br />

Surf Travel Company<br />

Port Macquarie Photo: Rivier Seb<br />

There is only one original ...<br />

Surf Travel Company<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

25<br />

Smorgasboard_1/4pages_D01.indd 3 13/06/11 6:03 PM


LATEST: & GREATEST<br />

ON YA<br />

BIKE!<br />

A cool fixie from The Misters.<br />

Original, Custom, fixed wheel<br />

cruisers, mountain bikes and BMX.<br />

Find out more about The Misters<br />

at www.themisters.com.au<br />

EVERYBODY NEEDS GOOD NEIGHBOURS<br />

Take a journey with Mark Riley, of Riley Surfboards,<br />

as he teaches his neighbour to surf. More than just an<br />

instructional DVD on how to paddle and stand up, Mark<br />

talks about useful tips like choosing the right beginners<br />

board, how to care for it, safety tips and surf etiquette.<br />

To order go to www.balsasurfboardsriley.com.au<br />

NICE RACK,<br />

GOOD WOOD<br />

Custom built, hand-crafted, freestanding<br />

board racks made from<br />

recycled timbers. Class.<br />

www.Byronbayboardracks.com<br />

26 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

27


It’s all about<br />

the beach<br />

surf art • shells<br />

driftwood things<br />

chenille shorts<br />

wood surf boards<br />

beach stuff • retro<br />

sunnies • thongs<br />

stripy towels<br />

umbrellas • NEW:<br />

HAMMOCKS!<br />

6 Lorraine Ave<br />

Marcoola Beach<br />

<strong>07</strong> 5448 8560<br />

IN STOCK: Black Apache Surfboards<br />

Mini-Simmons, Fish and more by Jesse Watson<br />

28 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


PHOTOGRAPHIC PROOF<br />

Sunshine Surf Safari runs a surf photo service on the Sunshine Coast. For as little as $55 per<br />

hour you can capture your next session with family or friends on film.<br />

Visit www.sunshinesurfsafari.com for details.<br />

LATEST: & GREATEST<br />

Violate<br />

$39.99 or<br />

$49.99 polarised<br />

Desire<br />

$39.99 or<br />

$49.99 polarised<br />

TAKE HEED ALL YE SINNERS!<br />

There’s a new brand of eyewear launching this <strong>September</strong> created with the consumer in mind, blending<br />

fashion styles at an affordable price. Sin Eyewear - Check out your local store.<br />

TEETOTALER<br />

Abstain from anything but these<br />

superb spring season tees!<br />

LEFT: The motion of the ocean<br />

www.saltmotion.com<br />

FAR LEFT: The best Californian<br />

Shapers www.lastwave.com<br />

ABOVE: Australia’s best shapers &<br />

surf shops www.ssstees.com.au<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

29


I LOVE<br />

LAPPIES<br />

Enter the Lap Rap... Cool covers to personalize and protect your laptop from<br />

general wear and tear. Customs too. Starts from $19.95 www.lap-rap.com<br />

FISHEYE OF THE TIGER<br />

Byron Bay’s Norval Watson is one of Australia’s original ‘surf artists’.<br />

Tigerfish Gallery in Torquay has released a limited run of high-quality,<br />

framed giclee prints of some of Norval’s masterpieces. The original oil<br />

paintings are also on show and available at Tigerfish for those who take<br />

their art a little more seriously. www.tigerfish.com.au<br />

WIN<br />

SEA OF<br />

SUPPORT<br />

And speaking of Sea<br />

Shepherd, Modom Surf<br />

have partnered with the<br />

conservation society to<br />

produce a line of clothing,<br />

bags and more, so you can<br />

wear your support loud and<br />

proud! For more, visit<br />

seashepherd.org and<br />

modomsurf.com<br />

BEDTIME<br />

READING<br />

Sunny and Coco’s A-Z<br />

of Surfing is a brand<br />

new book that surfs<br />

your kids through the<br />

alphabet. There’s even a<br />

page for Sea Shepherd,<br />

getting littlies involved in<br />

environmental matters.<br />

sunnyandcoco.com.au<br />

To win a copy signed by author, Kelly Smith, send us an email with your<br />

favourite surfing letter of the alphabet to letters@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

30 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

31


LATEST: NEWS<br />

WHERE IS THIS?<br />

HOLDEN LOVES HAPPY HOWARDS<br />

Brenda and Graeme Howard’s Island<br />

Surf Shack surf shop on Phillip Island<br />

has made it into the latest Holden ad<br />

featuring Joel Parkinson. From the<br />

moment we met this down-to-earth<br />

couple we knew they were destined<br />

for greatness. Enjoy the second of fame!<br />

OLD JUNGLE SAYING<br />

The Phantom is heading off to Bali.<br />

That’s right, all round top bloke and<br />

extremely talented shaper, Chris<br />

Garrett is leaving Australia for a<br />

3 year stint at Deus Ex Machina<br />

Bali. The aptly named ‘Temple of<br />

Enthusiasm’ constructed in rice<br />

fields outside of Kuta is apparently<br />

something any travelling surfer has<br />

to see. He may not drink beer or<br />

coffee but we will miss him all the<br />

same. Best of luck Phantom.<br />

THOMAS IN DEMAND<br />

Speaking of the Deus Ex Machina<br />

Temple of Enthusiasm, Tomas Bexon<br />

and Jake Bowrey are also knocking out<br />

a few fine numbers at the Bali shaping<br />

bay at present. Thomas is also doing<br />

his bit for the grade 11 and 12 Graphic<br />

Design students at Burnside High in<br />

Nambour helping them with their finals<br />

on surfboard art design. Who better to<br />

learn from then the master?<br />

THE SOUND OF DRUMS<br />

That’s what it sounds like when<br />

Teahupo turns it on and this year’s<br />

Billabong Pro in Tahiti delivered 7m<br />

waves, as wide as they were high.<br />

It’s not usually our place to cover<br />

pro-surfing, but when the day’s<br />

competition was called off and the<br />

hellman were unleashed... Check out<br />

www.vimeo.com/28251123 to see big<br />

waves and wipeouts at their best.<br />

WEGENER WINS AGAIN<br />

The man voted by Surfer magazine<br />

as the Shaper of the Year in 2009,<br />

Noosa’s Tom Wegener, has won<br />

the Australian International Design<br />

Award for his Seaglass Project, an<br />

epoxy EPS version of the traditional<br />

Hawaiian alaia.<br />

The ‘Tuna’ is a perfect mix of flex,<br />

rail and bottom contours, combined<br />

with modern materials to increase<br />

flotation... And it goes like a rocket.<br />

Whilst it’s not new news - Tom was<br />

recognised at an award presentation<br />

ceremony in Melbourne back on<br />

July 22 - we love what he does<br />

and had to make mention of his<br />

achievements in this edition.<br />

32 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


Photo: Scamander Beach Surf Shop<br />

Oli Wilson, Manly beach<br />

Photo: Ian “Butts” Butler<br />

Stick It wax was formulated to stick to your board better than any other<br />

wax on the global market. Stick It doesn’t get bare patches and will<br />

often last over 3 times longer than your average wax giving you a longer<br />

more comfortable surfing session time after time!<br />

WWW.STICKITGROUP.COM<br />

...The latest place you can find smorgasboarder magazine, that’s where!<br />

The folks at Scamander Beach Surf Shop on the beautiful east coast of<br />

Tasmania not only get to enjoy this awesome view from their shop’s front door,<br />

they also now get to hand out smorgasboarder to all the surf locals, braving<br />

the cold for the reward of an uncrowded ride. Sounds good to us!<br />

THE EGG-BASKET, UP IN FLAMES<br />

I guess that’s what happens when<br />

you put all your... well, you know. The<br />

Surf Factory in Burleigh shows us the<br />

dangers of cheap overseas production<br />

with this sign on their closed store.<br />

Really nothing more we need to say...<br />

AND HIS HEART SKIPPED A BEAT<br />

Congrats to Steve Padmore of Skipp<br />

Surfboards in Wollongong, who has just<br />

become a dad for the first time. Steve<br />

and his partner Louise, are now proud<br />

parents of a healthy 7.7lb baby, Willow.<br />

ON THE RIGHT PATH?<br />

There’s some angst in the Lennox Head<br />

surf community with the construction<br />

of a coastal pathway on the foreshore<br />

of the Lennox Head Surfing Reserve.<br />

The main issues are the alleged<br />

lack of community consultation and<br />

innapropriate materials used. A three<br />

metre wide concrete path has now<br />

dissected the once pristine slice of<br />

coastal land and seascape. Perhaps<br />

something like a wooden walkway<br />

might have been a better option...<br />

CORE STORE FOR SALE<br />

Mick Morgan has decided to pursue<br />

his passion for Stand Up Surfing even<br />

further and put his Core Store surf shop<br />

in Nowra up for sale. The well laid out<br />

store stocking a great range of high<br />

quality clothing labels, skate and surf<br />

hardware is sure to be a dream buy for<br />

any surf keen business man or woman.<br />

HAPPY 60 TH OLD MAN OF THE SEA<br />

The man who described Mark and my<br />

surfboard shaping efforts/antics as The<br />

Itchy and Scratchy Show turns 60 on<br />

<strong>September</strong> 28. Happy birthday, Paul<br />

Carson of The Factory Surfboards!<br />

OLD WOMAN, NEW MAN<br />

Old Woman Surf Shop at Mudjimba<br />

on the Sunshine Coast has changed<br />

owners and names. Now known as<br />

Boardstore Surf, the old girl joins the<br />

family of Boardstore skate stores, so<br />

you’ll be sure to find cool new skate<br />

gear in there alongside the surf stuff.<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

33


saltmotion<br />

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34 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


The Surf World Torquay team<br />

LATEST: COMMUNITY<br />

the surfing solution...<br />

A Carver Surf Rack gets your<br />

surfboard to the beach in style!<br />

Mike from Sandy Feet gets into the spirit<br />

HISTORICAL RIDE FOR SURF HISTORY BUFFS<br />

Surf World Torquay recently rode into the <strong>2011</strong> Victoria Museum Awards and<br />

was nominated as a finalist in two prestigious categories. More than 700<br />

museums across the state took part. They made the final list in the Archival<br />

Survival Award for Smalls Museums and People’s Choice Award for Best<br />

Museum Experience. Well done to top bloke, Surf World Curator, Craig Baird<br />

and his team.<br />

In further news, the team is putting the finishing touches to their new BELLS<br />

GOLD exhibition. The exhibition features rarely seen photographs, surfboards<br />

and film from 1962 through to 2010 from the Bells Beach Surfing Contest and<br />

Rip Curl Pro. For further information visit www.surfworld.com.au<br />

ARTBOARD<br />

Surf World Gold Coast is once again hosting the Art of<br />

Surfing exhibition and competition in October, this year<br />

with a kids surfboard art section as well. If you fancy<br />

yourself with a Posca pen, spray gun or paint brush,<br />

get to it. Available space is limited to 50 boards so<br />

interested exhibitors are advised to enter early. Register<br />

your interest by email: info@surfworldgoldcoast.com.<br />

ART YOU WOOD LOVE<br />

Timber boards... They are something to behold. South Australian wooden<br />

board maker Peter Walker takes this craftsmanship to a whole new<br />

level. To say his boards are anything but unbelievable would be a gross<br />

understatement. His superbly crafted wooden surfboards ride the wave all<br />

the way from surfing into art and design and if you ‘d like to see what we<br />

mean, they’re on display in Brisbane right now. The exhibition runs until<br />

<strong>September</strong> 24 at the Gallery Artisan, 381 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley. For<br />

further details visit www.artisan.org.au<br />

Fits Larger Boards<br />

Great for mopeds and scooters<br />

Tig Welded 6061 Alloy<br />

No Rust<br />

Visit us at...<br />

16 Rene Street, Noosaville Qld 4566 Phone: <strong>07</strong> 5455 5249<br />

www.scooterstyle.com.au<br />

Offer valid until November <strong>2011</strong>. Image for illustration purposes only<br />

Only $149<br />

with this ad!<br />

(save $90!)<br />

Classic Surf T-shirts<br />

from Surfing Legends<br />

lastwaveoriginals@gmail.com • Call 0400 497 534 • www.lastwave.com<br />

BEST FOOT FORWARD<br />

Mike Porter from Sandy Feet, one of the East Coast’s best surf shops by far,<br />

held their surfboard swap meet on August 20 in Port Macquarie. Despite<br />

mixed weather, the rooftop of Sandy Feet Surf was scattered with around<br />

100 used boards ranging from 60’s classics right through to current models.<br />

A raffle and donations managed to raise $400 for the local branch of the<br />

Disabled Surfers Association, where volunteers help disabled people enjoy<br />

the thrill of surfing that we take for granted. Well done Mike.<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

35


MAIN: Residents unhappy about what’s coming.<br />

BOTTOM: Residents with no idea what’s coming.<br />

K.I.<br />

KANGAROO ISLAND:<br />

THE GLOVES ARE OFF<br />

Surfing is something that binds us and unites communities. So<br />

what happens when surfing, instead, divides a community, as has<br />

happened with the scheduled ASP event at Vivonne Bay on Kangaroo<br />

Island in South Australia?<br />

It would appear that rather than engaging, there has been precious<br />

little consultation with the local surfing community by Surfing South<br />

Australia. In fact, news of the Kangaroo Island pro is alleged to have<br />

come as a complete surprise to locals including the island’s only proin-residence<br />

Teale Vanner. In response to this, a number of Kangaroo<br />

Island surfers opposed to the running of the contest at Vivonne Bay<br />

have set up a very detailed website, www.kangarooislandprosurf.com<br />

where they are voicing their concerns.<br />

Local surfer Rick Slager, and others who are vehemently opposed<br />

to the event, were gracious with their time and explained their<br />

grievances and concerns to us. Unfortunately despite attempts to<br />

contact Tim Doman at Surfing South Australia to hear his perspective,<br />

we unfortunately received no reponse. However, Surfing SA’s position<br />

has been detailed on their website at www.surfingaustralia.com and<br />

in a nutshell, what’s planned is as follows:<br />

• A six-star ASP event at Spot X, a left hander in Vivonne Bay<br />

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Buy the BEST PAULOWNIA<br />

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Contact David Evans<br />

P: 03 9588 2533<br />

E: info.sales@paulowniasurfboardsupplies.com<br />

W: www.paulowniasurfboardsupplies.com<br />

• It aims to showcase the world’s best surfers to surf mad South<br />

Australians, who rarely get such an opportunity, and in turn,<br />

showcase the natural beauty of Kangaroo Island to the world<br />

• A three-night music festival to be run in conjunction, with acts<br />

such as Eskimo Joe, Ash Grunwald and the Beautiful Girls<br />

It’s been reported a number of the island’s local businesses were<br />

upbeat because of the windfall an event of this magnitude would<br />

deliver and some members of the community brimmed with<br />

excitement at the prospect of the opportunity to watch top class<br />

surfers ripping in local SA conditions. However, there’s some fierce<br />

voices in opposition.<br />

36 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


Beach, not so much...<br />

LATEST: COMMUNITY<br />

THE CONCERNS RAISED<br />

The quality of the break in a competition situation appears to be questionable.<br />

Bowly and fun, Spot X seems to be a fair way short of world class. Plus the time<br />

of year the contest is scheduled is when conditions reportedly deliver onshore<br />

2ft closeouts or at best, fairly short cross-shore 4ft waves.<br />

Besides the quality and consistency of waves, other points of contention<br />

included the infrastructure, the access to the beach itself, hygiene facilities,<br />

waste management, the pure volume of visitors and the logistics of transporting<br />

the spectators to the island by ferry or plane.<br />

“4,500 thousand people live on Kangaroo Island,” said Rick Slager. “And we are<br />

talking about effectively doubling the population for ten days.”<br />

A major point of concern with regards to where the contest is being held is the<br />

disruption to flora and fauna by an anticipated crowd of between 3,000 to 5,000<br />

- in particular, the threat to critically endangered species such as the Hooded<br />

Plover who nest in the dunes.<br />

Apparently, because the beach is quite narrow and almost non-existent at high<br />

tide, the crowd will have no choice but to take to the dunes or water in flotilla<br />

unless they are somehow suspended over the dunes - disrupting the very<br />

habitat of these species.<br />

At the end of the day, a number of things don’t seem to add up. It seems odd<br />

that a surf contest that is intended to showcase what South Australia has<br />

to offer seems to have been scheduled when the surf is, according to local<br />

knowledge, not at its best. Secondly, the very pristine, natural environment<br />

everyone is so proud of, even to a layman, is being put at risk of potentially<br />

being destroyed or at best, irreversibly damaged.<br />

So as outsiders looking in - with no business interests in competitive surfing and<br />

not being South Australian ourselves - we simply can’t understand the smoke if<br />

there’s genuinely no fire. Read, get informed, make up your own mind.<br />

FOR MORE INFORMATION:<br />

Those in opposition: www.kangarooislandprosurf.com<br />

The offical contest website: www.kangarooislandpro.com<br />

For further views, visit blog2.surfsouthoz.com - a very interesting read indeed.<br />

LEADING SURF<br />

AND STREET WEAR,<br />

SURFBOARDS, WETSUITS<br />

AND ACCESSORIES...<br />

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THAT WE USE IN THE<br />

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SUNSHINE COAST SUPERSTORE<br />

2 Bulcock Street, Caloundra QLD 4551 Tel (<strong>07</strong>) 5491 3620<br />

Open Mon to Sat, 9am to 5pm and Sun 9am to 4pm. Closed Christmas Day<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

37


LATEST: COMMUNITY<br />

RETURNING TO GIVE:<br />

Photo: Neil Lumsden<br />

38 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


REBUILDING PARADISE<br />

SURFERS AND SAMOAN SPORTING<br />

HEROES HELP REBUILD A TSUNAMI<br />

RAVAGED COMMUNITY.<br />

WORDS: BEN HORVATH<br />

In the final stages of Samoa’s extraordinary 32 – 23 victory over<br />

the Wallabies on July 17, <strong>2011</strong>, the Samoan players ran towards a<br />

rainbow that hovered above the southern stands at ANZ Stadium. The<br />

smiles on both the players and fans faces told the story, the rainbow<br />

symbolised hope, renewal and healing.<br />

Samoans haven’t been able to smile or celebrate in unison like that<br />

since the devastating tsunami of <strong>September</strong> 29, 2009 that claimed<br />

200 lives. It is often said sport brings out the best emotions in people,<br />

and on that cold, wet, Saturday night in Sydney you couldn’t help<br />

but share in the feelings of relief and joy that permeated through the<br />

whole Samoan population.<br />

Australians are more than aware that our Pacific neighbours with a<br />

population of 180,000 are renowned for punching above their weight<br />

in union, league and soccer.<br />

Japan also suffered the devastation of an earthquake and a massive<br />

tsunami earlier this year, a tragedy not dissimilar to the one the<br />

Samoan people experienced in <strong>September</strong> 2009.<br />

The Japanese women’s football team brought joy to their recovering<br />

population by winning the women’s world cup in Germany just days<br />

after Samoa’s rugby triumph. Sporting victories have a unique way of<br />

unifying countries, filling people with pride, hope and joy all at once.<br />

High profile sporting stars are heroes and role models the world over.<br />

A group of famous Australian based NRL players of Samoan heritage<br />

led by Nigel Vagana the NRL Education and Welfare program<br />

manager, have graciously kicked in and joined forces with a bunch of<br />

Sydney surfers under the banner of Groundswell to help raise money<br />

for victims of the 2009 Samoan tsunami.<br />

Surfers are very familiar with the pristine Pacific reef breaks that pick<br />

up the same swells as Hawaii’s north shore in our summer months.<br />

Australian travellers have been venturing NE for decades now to<br />

enjoy the warm hospitality and uncrowded power on offer in Samoa.<br />

Reg Barton, Assistant Director at TAFE NSW, enjoyed an epic boat<br />

trip with good mate Mark Hawkins in the Mentawais in late August<br />

2009. When the boys returned to Sydney in <strong>September</strong> and heard<br />

about the earthquake that hit Padang and the nearby Mentawais<br />

chain they immediately wanted to return to the place they fell in love<br />

with on their surfing holiday and help.<br />

“THE VACANT SLAB THAT FORMERLY<br />

SERVED AS A REMINDER OF THE<br />

DEVASTATING TSUNAMI WAS<br />

REPLACED BY A SYMBOL OF HOPE”<br />

Reg said, “The motivation to help the Samoans originates from<br />

our desire to assist in Indonesia actually. You see, there was an<br />

earthquake deep in the Pacific Ocean in the Tongan Trench that<br />

triggered geographic events both to the East and West in Padang and<br />

Samoa. Both are in the Pacific Rim of Fire. I knew with Mark that we<br />

could activate some carpentry apprentices at Randwick TAFE through<br />

my work, but when I heard Surfaid were already active in Padang,<br />

Hutch (Dave Hutchison) a buddy of mine that runs The Surf Travel Co<br />

suggested we help the Samoan community rebuild.”<br />

Reg continued, “I’ve known Hutch for years. He’s been booking<br />

surf trips for Australians at Sinalei for over a decade. Hutch heard<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

39


LATEST: COMMUNITY<br />

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40 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

BRAND<br />

firsthand how ravaged the community up there was<br />

after the tsunami. With Hutch’s assistance through<br />

The Surf Travel Co and with Gary McNeil and Eden<br />

Scallan from Formula Energy Surfboards, I was able<br />

to get a bunch of my apprentices up to Samoa and<br />

on the ground.”<br />

That’s pretty much how Groundswell, the not-forprofit<br />

organisation evolved. It really is a group who<br />

believe that surfers should not only participate in<br />

supporting people that need help, but that we have a<br />

responsibility to put back in.<br />

Groundswell formed a strong alliance with Joe<br />

Annandale a Samoan Chief Matai and chief of<br />

Poutasi Village. Groundswell made a commitment<br />

to support Joe’s dream of developing a model<br />

village. The model village hopes to connect with<br />

families that have moved out of the village as a<br />

result of the tsunami and will also focus on assisting<br />

disaffected youth, not only from Samoa, but from<br />

other Polynesian communities. The village is<br />

aiming to adopt a whole of life approach that will<br />

re-engage young people with their culture, maintain<br />

cultural education for infants, provide examples<br />

of sustainable living in the local environment, and<br />

provide income for the village to ensure the model is<br />

independent from a reliance on external funding.<br />

In January 2010 half a dozen self-funded Groundswell<br />

members travelled to Samoa to work on the first stage<br />

of the re-construction program. Utilising materials<br />

re-cycled from the tsunami the team completed work<br />

at the Sinalei Resort. Hard work enabled the popular<br />

holiday resort to re-open and again employ over sixty<br />

families that for six months following the tsunami had<br />

little or no income.<br />

To support the second stage of the plan that involves<br />

building a Cultural Arts Centre in the village of<br />

Poutasi, Groundswell and Nigel Vagana, backed by<br />

the NRL combined forces to undertake the inaugural<br />

Sydney Harbour Paddle. On Saturday <strong>September</strong> 25,<br />

2010 the first anniversary of the Samoan tsunami,<br />

a Groundswell team of ten surfers paddled across<br />

Sydney Harbour heads from Camp Cove to Manly.<br />

The support efforts built a strong bond and mutual<br />

respect between the team and the Polynesian<br />

community. The event raised $12,000 via sponsors,<br />

providing funds for a return visit to Samoa earlier<br />

this year in April.<br />

David Hutchison said, “The aid work this year<br />

focused on helping the people of Poutasi village in<br />

their rebuilding efforts. Poutasi is near Sinalei which<br />

is where the surf resort and Coconuts - a very hollow<br />

right-hander - is located. People at Sinalei lost<br />

families. Joe Annandale lost his wife and mother-inlaw<br />

which was a tragedy.”<br />

The Groundswell crew focused on building the<br />

Fatu Feu’u Art and Education Centre. This building<br />

is to become the centre for Polynesian artists and<br />

craftsmen from all over the Pacific. The centre will<br />

provide ongoing education in Polynesian arts and<br />

crafts, guaranteeing traditional skills are not lost.


Short boards, mini<br />

mals, mals, logs, fishes,<br />

alaias, whatever you<br />

have laying around in<br />

the shed or even your<br />

pride and joy sitting<br />

in the lounge room...<br />

We want it!<br />

SAVE $!!<br />

Trade in your old<br />

SURFBOARD<br />

against a brand new SUP,<br />

surfboard, kiteboard or<br />

other gear<br />

TOP LEFT: Rebuilding Sinalei ABOVE: Joe Annandale and Toby Claire LEFT: Building saw stools<br />

CENTRE: Coconuts view from Sinalei BELOW: The crew PHOTOS Courtesty of Surf Travel Co. , Randwick TAFE<br />

Poutasi village is home to an internationally renowned carver and artist, Fatu<br />

Feu’u after whom the centre is named.<br />

The crew was made up of six volunteers, two of whom had never travelled<br />

overseas before. The goal was to accomplish as much as physically possible in<br />

the two weeks they were there.<br />

Everyone worked incredibly hard, battling sickness and hot, humid conditions to<br />

bring the building to near completion in less than two weeks. Building materials<br />

and equipment were limited. There are no Bunning’s franchises to be seen.<br />

Everything was constructed by hand, right through to fabricating roof trusses.<br />

The team accomplished an extraordinary result under very tough conditions, and<br />

were able to leave a wonderful symbol of Groundswell generosity.<br />

The lads did get to have a few quick surfs, but there were many other special<br />

memories, including building saw stools with the young children and working<br />

side by side with the Poutasi village volunteers.<br />

The hospitality and gratitude shown to the team by the Poutasi community was<br />

overwhelming. The team were humbled by the experience and the extent of the<br />

cultural exchange.<br />

Groundswell is not just about replacing infrastructure. It is also about providing<br />

opportunities to both the Samoan people and to those involved in the project. All<br />

who participated said, “It was a rewarding, positive experience from a personal<br />

growth point of view. Everyone involved agreed the experience had changed<br />

their outlook on life”.<br />

After two weeks of hard work, the vacant slab that formerly served as a<br />

reminder of the devastating tsunami was replaced by a symbol of hope and an<br />

exciting future for the village of Poutasi.<br />

On <strong>September</strong> 24, <strong>2011</strong> the second Sydney harbour paddle event will be staged.<br />

Reg said, “The target this year is $100,000 in government grants, donations and<br />

sponsorship. Please check the website www.groundswellbuilds.org.au to see<br />

how you can support a very worthy cause.<br />

HOW IT WORKS...<br />

1. Get in touch! Either call or e-mail us<br />

2. Tell us about the board you want to trade and<br />

what new gear you’re after - SUP, surf, kite or wake!<br />

3. Send us a current picture of your<br />

board. We’ll evaluate the trade-in<br />

price and let you know how much it<br />

is worth against your purchase<br />

4. We agree on a price and organise the<br />

collection of your old surfboard and freight<br />

your new board or gear to your door!<br />

WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?<br />

CONTACT US TODAY and trade that<br />

old surfboard for some new gear!<br />

INTERSTATE?<br />

NO WORRIES!<br />

We’ll even arrange<br />

freight and collection!<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

41


LATEST: INTEREST<br />

It’s not every day you drive up to a house to be confronted by a giant wooden wave.<br />

Impressive inside and out, this home is simply something else.<br />

42 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


GRAND<br />

DESIGNS<br />

Rising up from the bushland, Jed Done’s striking house<br />

on the Far South New South Wales coast brings home<br />

what he loves most - a giant wave. The 10m timber<br />

wave he calls home represents countless hours of love<br />

and hard labour and is a true statement about the life<br />

of the Bushrat Surfboards innovator.<br />

We talk to Jed about the inspiration behind his design<br />

and how he went about the construction process, a<br />

project he pretty much undertook solo for the better<br />

part of three years.<br />

WORDS & PHOTOS: DAVE SWAN<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

43


LATEST: INTEREST<br />

Now to qualify, Jed simply didn’t pick up a<br />

hammer and go will nilly. Better known to<br />

smorgasboarder readers as Bushrat for his<br />

innovative flextail surfboard designs, Jed is<br />

also a licensed carpenter by trade and very<br />

handy on the tools. He is basically one of<br />

those extremely talented people who are<br />

pretty much good at everything and to inept<br />

home handyman like myself, really give you<br />

the sh#ts.<br />

“The concept behind the house was born<br />

when I was doing some work for a local<br />

architect. He was really good at designing<br />

aesthetically pleasing homes with big<br />

box-like configurations. His interiors also<br />

worked particularly well.<br />

“He drew a house that kind of looked like a<br />

big ski jump, knowing what I would do with<br />

it. I sat on it for a while and thought about<br />

the design. He emailed me the sketched<br />

plan that was drawn on a computer.<br />

“Whilst I don’t use a shaping machine for<br />

my surfboards, I draw outlines and curves<br />

on a computer so I am familiar with the<br />

CAD design software. I laid his drawing out,<br />

overlaid my favourite surfboard templates<br />

over the top and thought to myself, ‘Well<br />

that works and I tweaked it for about a year<br />

and here we are.’”<br />

Today the house stands 10 metres tall with magnificent views to the ocean, which is around 2 kilometres<br />

away - a 15 minute walk through national park to Jed’s home surf break, which we will not discuss for<br />

fear of never being invited back.<br />

The interior features two bedrooms, a large open plan dining room, kitchen and living room. Downstairs<br />

there is a guest bathroom and a future display room for Jed’s boards, which for now, acts as a music<br />

room for his partner Patricia who is a piano teacher. The home has an incredibly relaxed vibe to it and is<br />

extremely spacious featuring magnificent hardwood timbers throughout.<br />

“The architect who helped me design the house offered sound words of advice. He said, ‘you should<br />

build a house that you are inspired, and look forward to coming home to.’”<br />

The house has proven to be just that, acting as a further source of inspiration to Jed’s surfboard designs.<br />

“The thing I like is, you have one curve in the roof and you have got the sun beaming in, at a million<br />

different angles, all day, every day. From my office upstairs you can look down on the grass and see<br />

the shadow the curved roof casts and you can see a million different outlines and bottom curves for a<br />

surfboard. You see a certain shadow and go, ‘Ahh, there it is.’ The shadows the roof cast are an amazing<br />

inspiration.”<br />

Patricia laughs, “Yes, it’s an obsession of Jed’s. An obsession with the curve! We had a good solid<br />

couple of years talking about the ‘curve’ until I had enough of it.”<br />

Jed chimes in with, “Well, a square one would have been too easy to build.”<br />

Ahh yes, and there we go showing off again. But seriously, the same committed approach applies to his<br />

range of Bushrat surfboards. It would be far easier, and a lot more socially acceptable, for Jed to tread<br />

the usual path of surfboard design and construction. But his obsession with finding the perfect surfboard<br />

has led him to the discovery and subsequent evolution of his flextail designs. They are something Jed<br />

passionately believes in, and in my humble opinion, rightly so. I just hope the majority of surfers out there<br />

open their mind to his surfboard designs so they can experience just how much fun they are because,<br />

just like Jed’s house, being adventurous can prove to be very rewarding.<br />

44 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


“WELL, A SQUARE ONE WOULD HAVE BEEN<br />

TOO EASY TO BUILD.” JED DONE ON BUILDING HIS HOME<br />

LEFT: Jed Done - Bushrat builder. ABOVE LEFT: The view to the ocean. ABOVE RIGHT: The lawn,<br />

a source of inspiration for Bushrat Surfboards. INSET: The back of the Bushratmobile, full of toys.<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

45


LATEST: INTEREST<br />

THE BUSHRAT WAVE-HOME TIMELINE<br />

• Jed’s grandfather originally owned the land and there was a makeshift<br />

shack on the property<br />

• During Australia’s recession in the early ‘90s Jed had limited<br />

carpentry work and took to fixing up the old shack, living there for the<br />

next seven years<br />

• In 1995, he purchased the land from his grandparents<br />

• With the announcement of the 2000 Sydney Olympics he moved to<br />

the big smoke in search of work to ‘cash-up’ for his future project<br />

• Whilst there he hooked up with a local Maroubra kneeboarder fixing<br />

dings and repairing boards, a move that was to prove his inspiration<br />

for his future flextail designs<br />

• Jed moved back home after five years. White ants had eaten the<br />

shed and the trees had moved in, so he set up camp in a caravan<br />

• He first devoted his energy into building his own unique ‘surfboard<br />

factory’ complete with shaping bay, sanding and glassing rooms, and<br />

a heap of storage. Kind of open, breezy and bloody cold in winter -<br />

which it was when I visited - but with a hell of a lot of character<br />

• He started work on the house in the Autumn of 2008, taking three<br />

years to build it from start to finish<br />

• It took 6 months to construct the hardwood timber frames<br />

• The concrete slab was laid and once the foundation set, a crane took<br />

only four hours to erect the entire framework of the house<br />

THIS PAGE: Different views of the Bushrat<br />

shaping shed and Jed Bushrat at work.<br />

BUSHRAT BY NAME,<br />

BUSHRAT BY NATURE?<br />

We had to ask Jed about the name<br />

Bushrat and where it came from?<br />

“When I was living in the shack I<br />

had a mate visit from Mallacoota.<br />

He used to call me ‘Bushrat.’<br />

“The other story is in relation to<br />

the many marsupial mice we have<br />

in these parts (Brown Antechinus<br />

Mice). The male only lives for<br />

one year and come mating time it<br />

gets more and more anxious. It’s<br />

testicles enlarge to the biggest<br />

body ratio size in the entire animal<br />

kingdom. They literally become the<br />

size of a bean-bag balls dangling<br />

down to their knees. They root<br />

for three days and then they die.<br />

They basically root themselves to<br />

death. They don’t drink, don’t eat,<br />

don’t sleep, just root with as many<br />

partners as possible until they keel<br />

over and die. 80% of the female<br />

mice die of heart attacks.”<br />

Okay then.<br />

46 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

47


MEET THE TALENT<br />

NAME: André Marsaus<br />

AKA: Ondi<br />

WHO: Co-owner of Underground<br />

Surf and mad surf collector<br />

PREVIOUSLY: World-travelling<br />

Chef (He even cooked for<br />

the Queen), Restauranteur,<br />

Superbike racer, Motorbike<br />

Racing Team Manager<br />

BORN: Melbourne, VIC<br />

LIVES: Gold Coast, QLD<br />

PROBLEM: A few too many<br />

surfboards... or not enough?<br />

Believe it or not, this is only a<br />

quarter of the collection!<br />

An Aragorn original... The 70’s brand has since<br />

been resurrected by Underground, with some new<br />

boards shaped by Steve ‘Zorro’ Goddard.<br />

48 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


SLIGHTLY<br />

OBSESSED<br />

(But in the best possible way)<br />

Meet Ondi and his friends<br />

If you’ve visited the southern end of the<br />

Gold Coast in the last few years, you might<br />

have come across the treasure trove that is<br />

Underground Surf in Coolangatta. Between<br />

all the fantastic retro and vintage boards in<br />

the store and the wealth of knowledge, history<br />

and surfing trivia, any avid collector could<br />

lose hours of the day swapping tales with the<br />

friendly owner and smorgasboarder history<br />

buff, André ‘Ondi’ Marsaus.<br />

While Ondi started his surfboard collecting<br />

obsession at the tender age of five, his passion<br />

for surfboards hasn’t died down one bit. These<br />

days he’ll happily chew your ear off about<br />

a single fin or talk for hours about the most<br />

minute development in surfboard design. And<br />

Underground Surf, which he runs with his<br />

partner Maree, is the perfect venue to do<br />

exactly that. You might even be lucky enough<br />

to run into a local surfing legend or two when<br />

you visit.<br />

To spread the love of board collecting, he also<br />

runs an annual vintage surfboard swap meet<br />

which not only feeds his own collection, but<br />

gets curious newbies hooked as well.<br />

Ondi gracefully took some time out to show<br />

us a small sample of his collection of over 300<br />

boards. Wow. What else can we say?<br />

FROM LEFT BOTTOM: Green Hohonsee<br />

single, Cowley single fin, Klemm Bell wasp<br />

stinger, Cooper bonzer, Mctavish Bluebird<br />

single, Mctavish bluebird kneeboard, Mctavish<br />

Bluebird single, Mctavish Bluebird single,<br />

McCoy single, McCoy twinfin, Greenough<br />

asymetrical singlefin, Hotstuff single, Dick<br />

Brewer tri-fin, Aragorn bonzer, Aragorn tri-fin,<br />

Hot Buttered single, Cowley single, Don Alcroft<br />

Sunbird single, Sky twin fin, Sky twin fin, Local<br />

Knowledge tri-fin, Local Knowledge tri-fin,<br />

Gordon & Smith quad, Gordon & Smith tri-fin,<br />

Simon Anderson Energy thruster<br />

MIDDLE: MP single, McCoy 82’ Lazor Zap,<br />

Hohonsee single multi<br />

THIRD ROW, FROM FRONT: Friar Tuck kneelo<br />

twin, Friar Tuck kneelo quad, Hot Buttered<br />

Knormal kneelo, Gordon & Smith kneelo, Local<br />

Knowledge twin, Local Knowledge single,<br />

Choobecrafted Cali twin, MP Goodtime single,<br />

Goodtime twin, MP Goodtime single, Furry<br />

Austin Goodtime single, Gordon & Smith tri-fin,<br />

CO2 quad fin, MR twin, MR twin, MR twin,<br />

Nat Young tri-fin, Hotstuff A.B. channel tri-fin,<br />

Gordon & Black tri-fin, Simon Anderson Energy<br />

thruster, Wayne Lynch single gun, Aragorn MP<br />

single<br />

BACK: Aragorn kneelo, Mcgrigor single, Erle<br />

Pedderson Kewara jet sandboard/scurfer,<br />

Gordon and Smith tri-fin, Steve Goddard tri-fin,<br />

Trigger Bros Kneelo.<br />

To talk and browse vintage boards, drop in to the store at<br />

3/31 McLean St, Coolangatta. www.undergroundsurf.com.au<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

49


LATEST: LOCAL<br />

From the age of 8, Todd Mingramm grew up surfing with his dad who used to put him up the front of his malibu. His surfing quickly<br />

progressed. Before long he was competing in his local board riding club and by his teens interstate comps. Soon after he became a<br />

sponsored surfer with a couple of big name surf brands behind him and began competing internationally and doing exotic photo shoots.<br />

It was fun but as Todd describes it, “I was getting by on the back of my surfing, but only just.”<br />

TURNING POINT<br />

Todd injured his back fairly early on<br />

in his surfing career.<br />

“I fractured my L5 (lower vertebrae)<br />

jumping off a big jump rock called<br />

The Beast Rock down at Wattamolla<br />

south of Cronulla. When you are a<br />

teenager it was one of those things<br />

you had to jump off to be a man.<br />

"It is quite a jump and I basically<br />

fractured my back. It was pretty<br />

stupid. I could move but was in pain<br />

for months and didn’t find out I had a<br />

fracture until a couple of years later.<br />

“I had a couple of other problems. I<br />

was born with such as Scoliosis and<br />

Spina bifida and those back issues<br />

in combination with my injury... it<br />

was half the reason I stopped doing<br />

comps because I was always in pain<br />

and injured.”<br />

STARTING THE GRIND<br />

Todd gave up surfing competitively<br />

and went to work for his dad in<br />

the motor trade for four years. He<br />

started washing cars, progressed to<br />

an office bound job that obviously<br />

didn’t suit someone who loved<br />

being outdoors and finally became<br />

a wholesale rep for the company.<br />

It was a means to an end, helping<br />

him to save enough money to travel<br />

overseas.<br />

THE REVELATION<br />

“I landed a job in San Clemente,<br />

California at a surf school working<br />

for Jackie Baxter’s (famous 60’s<br />

Californian surf legend) son, Josh,<br />

who is a professional longboarder.<br />

I pretty much taught surfing over<br />

summer for two seasons. It brought<br />

me back to surfing.”<br />

“I just loved teaching and when I<br />

came back that was all I wanted to<br />

do. When I returned I worked for the<br />

Cronulla Surfing Academy owned by<br />

Blake Johnston, a really good surfer<br />

from Cronulla who was a pro surfer<br />

back in the day.”<br />

THE TRANSITION TO SUP<br />

“Dane Wilson got me into stand<br />

up. Dane’s a pro longboarder from<br />

Noosa who was originally from<br />

Cronulla... He got me into it and it<br />

assisted strengthening my back and<br />

I got addicted to it. It is so good for<br />

developing your core strength.”<br />

WHAT’S THE ADDICTIVE THING<br />

ABOUT SUP FOR YOU?<br />

“I don’t know what it is exactly but<br />

every time I jump on a stand up<br />

paddleboard it puts a smile on my<br />

face. I guess because I am still on a<br />

board in the water and I am not in<br />

pain. I just feel really good.”<br />

Regular stand up sessions combined<br />

with a healthy diet and Bikram Yoga<br />

has kept Todd in the water enjoying<br />

his surfing.<br />

“In my opinion if you don’t use it,<br />

you lose it. You have to try and keep<br />

your back strong. Stand up and yoga<br />

assists my core strength and the<br />

yoga furthers aids flexibility.”<br />

FUTURE PLANS<br />

Aside from his Cronulla Standup<br />

Paddleboard School Todd also owns<br />

the Cronulla Standup Paddleboard<br />

Shop. His days are spent running<br />

between lessons and his shop. His<br />

nights however are spent on his other<br />

love… hip-hop music.<br />

“My music is really my thing at the<br />

moment. I have been pretty hard<br />

at it, doing gigs and tours. It is a<br />

massive part of my life. I perform<br />

under the name Slippery MC. Stay<br />

tuned for an album in 6 months.”<br />

WWW.CRONULLASUP.COM.AU<br />

From surf to SUP to the stage, Todd's not been one to sit idle. Photos Supplied.<br />

50 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

51


LATEST: LOCAL<br />

Back in the very first edition of smorgasboarder, we had the<br />

good luck and privilege of printing some amazing surf shots from<br />

the Central Coast - of Kerry Down making the most of his brand<br />

new Black Apache Twin. And ever since those pics first flashed up<br />

on screen we wanted to have a chat to the man behind the lens.<br />

As good fortune would have it, there was a lot more to the<br />

snapper than just photography. It turns out he’s not only a firey<br />

and family man - he also has an unhealthy addiction to big waves.<br />

Fellow Central Coasters Aimee Sics and Grant Molony catch<br />

up with a man who is insane enough to ride Shipsterns Bluff in<br />

Tassie... holding onto a pole with a GoPro camera on it...<br />

WAVE<br />

JUNKIE<br />

WORDS: AIMEE SICS PHOTOS: GRANT MOLONY<br />

For some surfers, the day-to-day surfing routine at the local break can only meet<br />

their needs to a certain degree. It’s then that they go beyond the friendly waves<br />

to seek out the monsters of the deep.<br />

For Central Coast surfer, Justin Allport on his birth certificate, or Jughead, as he<br />

is more intimately known to the locals, jumping out of a plane may command a<br />

high. Working in his day-job as a fire fighter might most definitely present some<br />

heart-pounding situations. But nothing else gives him that adrenaline rush as<br />

hunting down the big ones.<br />

52 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


Happy days at Wyrrabalong National Park on a sunny<br />

Sunday with no one around. PHOTO: Grant Molony<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

53


LATEST: LOCAL<br />

LEFT: Later that same Sunday. Grant Molony<br />

BELOW: Shipsterns, with polecam... Crazy? Maybe<br />

a little... http://vimeo.com/user1044232<br />

“MISADVENTURE IS THE NEW ADVENTURE...” JUGHEAD<br />

Your average Joe next door, Jughead is a committed<br />

family man, dedicated firey, keen surfer and<br />

photographer. But his life is far from average. One<br />

minute he could be at the scene of a car accident, the<br />

next he’s taking on a five-metre wave, sitting deep<br />

inside the barrel, causing onlookers to choke in terror.<br />

Chasing down the rush isn’t easy. Missed flights,<br />

excess baggage fees, shattered ribs, broken down<br />

cars a hundred kilometres away from the nearest tow,<br />

busted ear drums, countless snapped boards, lost<br />

luggage, stranded at foreign airports, sunken jet skis,<br />

angry locals with shotguns, enough stitches to sew<br />

a sweater and being forgotten fifty kilometres out to<br />

sea is all part of the adventure.<br />

“Misadventure is the new adventure,” say Jughead.<br />

“It’s all part of it!”<br />

When asked what has been the most frightening<br />

experience to date, a little chuckle and the confession<br />

slips that it was when his wife was in labour with<br />

their first child. Talk about guts.<br />

But the surf chasing all started by accident. After<br />

being taken out by a rip one day and encountering<br />

some huge surf, he was hooked. Now chasing the<br />

big waves - and venturing where few would dare - is<br />

what it’s all about.<br />

Born and bred on the NSW Central Coast, Jughead<br />

grew up with North Shelly beach as his backyard and<br />

he’s proud to say that it still is today. With a loving<br />

wife and three young kids, he’s one happy fella at<br />

home.<br />

So what’s his wife’s take on chasing giants?<br />

“She’s great. Very supportive of me when I want to<br />

take off to West Australia, for instance.”<br />

Together for 17 years and married for 12, it’s obviously<br />

a tribute to their strong relationship. Family holidays<br />

are always somewhere coastal for the beach loving<br />

family, and not always about big waves.<br />

“Coolangatta.” he says. “I love holidaying there. Great<br />

waves for the kids when it’s small, and theme parks<br />

are close by. Beautiful climate, it’s got it all.”<br />

Another favourite is Bali. A recent holiday there with<br />

a few other families meant a great mix of shopping,<br />

surf and kid-friendly activities - a healthy balance of<br />

family time and surfing.<br />

The thrill seeker gene has evidently been passed on<br />

to Charli, the eldest Allport at ten years old - currently<br />

winning the under 10s in the local Boardrider’s club at<br />

North Shelly and getting some practice in over in Bali.<br />

“She was the one who kept asking to go further and<br />

further out on bigger days!”<br />

With a competitive streak running through Charli,<br />

she’s a bit of an all-rounder at sports, excelling in<br />

netball, swimming and cross-country, too. Milli, a<br />

little younger competes in Boardrider’s also, “She<br />

just loves doing it because her older sister does. But<br />

she is good and loves riding all types of waves - fat,<br />

sucky, big and small.”<br />

At home, the surf-family-work equilibrium does take<br />

time to work out, but is ultimately, family comes first.<br />

“Weekends can get difficult as the kids want to hang<br />

out with their friends. So taking them surfing all<br />

together is a bonus, not to mention good fun!”<br />

Jughead’s shift work gives him the chance to surf<br />

when the kids are at school. And even if the waves<br />

aren’t gigantic, it’s not just an adrenalin thing.<br />

“It’s more of an escape,” he tells us. “Surfing two<br />

foot waves by myself can sometimes be all it takes<br />

to relax.”<br />

But the adrenaline won’t stop running. Jughead<br />

states he may “get more cautious”, but even then, “It<br />

might just mean a smaller wave will get the adrenalin<br />

pumping, which is good because it’s easier to find<br />

smaller waves!”<br />

So what else does this family man do for an adrenalin<br />

kick then, when it’s cold, miserable and the beach<br />

resembles a lake? Bungee jump?<br />

“I was going to once, but then I gave the money to<br />

a mate. I would do it, but it’s not something I think I<br />

would love to do in order to get that rush.”<br />

It ultimately comes back to the ocean though.<br />

Jughead and his camaraderie of other big wave<br />

chasers and photographers are always watching the<br />

charts, ready to shuffle every day life out of the way<br />

for a bit…<br />

There’s nothing like returning home to the family though.<br />

“I do love the adrenalin those trips give me, but I<br />

definitely miss the family more than I miss the waves.”<br />

And for the absolute wind-down, Jug says there’s<br />

nothing like a good coffee and some games. “I’m a bit<br />

of a Monopoly king!”<br />

Well coffee gets the heart rate going. Not to sure<br />

about Monopoly, but each to their own, hey!<br />

For killer video footage of Jughead surfing<br />

everywhere from Shipsterns to his backyard, check<br />

out his very cool video channel on Vimeo at<br />

vimeo.com/user1044232<br />

For more of Grant Molony’s great photography, see<br />

grantmolonyphoto.blogspot.com<br />

54 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

55


LATEST: DEBATE<br />

OUR RESIDENT SHARK-ADDICT, DAVE THE GIANT CHICKEN, ASKS<br />

SOME SCARY QUESTIONS AND GETS SOME BLOODY GOOD ANSWERS.<br />

WORDS: DAVE SWAN, with contributions from JOHN WEST, BRETT BAM, MARK ADDISON<br />

You’ve just caught a wave and are paddling back out. You have a strange feeling something else is there<br />

with you. An innate sense, some describe as our ‘sixth sense’ telling you: “You are not alone.”<br />

I’ve heard a lot of people say, “trust your instincts”. If you sense something in the water, you are<br />

probably right and it’s best you get out of there. But if that were true, for me, I would never get a surf<br />

in. I always feel like there is something there. If I trusted my so-called ‘instincts’, the minute I got wet,<br />

I would be back on the beach drying myself off. If this notion is indeed correct, I am a shark magnet<br />

because every time I surf there must be one right alongside of me. I am like the Dr Doolittle of the sea.<br />

Yes, as you guessed it, I have a shark phobia, a fear of sharks known as Selachophobia. Yes, I am soft.<br />

But I’m not alone. Many people, and indeed many surfers, suffer from such a fear of sharks. These<br />

beasts of the deep have the ability to play on our minds.<br />

Sure, more people may die each year from bee stings or lightning strikes or falling coconuts, as we are<br />

so often told, but quite frankly, the mere sight of a bee doesn’t send me into a state of panic. I don’t see<br />

a bee and go, “Oh crap!” The same goes for coconuts, quite the opposite in fact.<br />

And is this an accurate comparison anyhow? Let’s face it; despite the enormous rise in popularity of<br />

surfing, there are a hell of a lot more people walking around vulnerable to the attack of a bee then there<br />

are people in the ocean. Whilst a bee sting may unfortunately prove lethal to some of us, that very bee is<br />

not going to tear us apart, limb from limb, and eat us alive.<br />

And then there’s the dilemma that, if you are extremely unlucky enough to get attacked, how the hell do<br />

you bring yourself to get back into the water? Surely there is no worse way to go than being eaten by a<br />

shark. It’s this fear that possibly drives our morbid fascination with sharks and indeed shark attacks, no<br />

matter how unlikely they may be. Let’s hear from everyday surfers as well as the experts about sharks<br />

and their at times tenuous relationship with surfers.<br />

56 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


Photo: Hayden O’Neill<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

57


LATEST: DEBATE<br />

Cases<br />

PERTH<br />

DARWIN<br />

Distribution of Australian shark attacks, 1791–2009.<br />

Each attack is represented by a black dot.<br />

Australian Shark Attack File - Taronga Zoo<br />

ADELAIDE<br />

Suprising results... The times that reported shark attacks have occured between 1990 and 2009.<br />

18<br />

16<br />

14<br />

12<br />

10<br />

8<br />

6<br />

4<br />

2<br />

0<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24<br />

Time (Hours)<br />

Number of shark attacks for each state of Australia (1990-2009), including number of fatalities, injuries, or where<br />

the person was uninjured and the location of the last fatality since 1990. Australian Shark Attack File - Taronga Zoo<br />

STATE TOTAL CASES FATAL ATTACKS INJURED UNINJURED LAST FATALITY (SINCE 1990)<br />

NSW 73 2 45 26 2008, Ballina, Lighthouse Beach<br />

QLD 43 5 32 6 2006, North Stradbroke Island<br />

WA 35 6 23 6 2005, Houtman Abrolhos Islands<br />

SA 20 8 11 1 2005, Glenelg Beach<br />

VIC 12 0 5 7<br />

TAS 2 1 1 0 1993, Tenth Is, Georgetown<br />

NT 1 0 0 1<br />

TOTAL 186 22 117 47<br />

MELBOURNE<br />

HOBART<br />

SYDNEY<br />

Since 2009, there have been a further two fatalities in WA and one in SA, most recently a 21-year-old bodyboarder, in Bunker Bay, WA.<br />

BRISBANE<br />

We figured that we may as well start<br />

with an informed view, so we went<br />

straight to the experts.<br />

Resident shark expert at Taronga Zoo,<br />

John West is the Manager of Life<br />

Sciences Operations and Coordinator<br />

of the Australian Shark Attack File.<br />

“Shark attacks will persist as long as<br />

humans continue to enter the habitat<br />

of the shark,” he states. “However, it<br />

is important to keep shark attacks in<br />

perspective. There is an average of<br />

87 people that drown at Australian<br />

beaches per year (ref: Surf Life<br />

Saving Australia 2010) yet there is<br />

only an average of 12 unprovoked<br />

shark attack incidents, including 1.1<br />

fatalities, per year over the last two<br />

decades.<br />

“It is clear that the risk of being<br />

bitten or dying from an unprovoked<br />

shark attack in Australia remains<br />

extremely low.”<br />

Good to know... John recently<br />

published a paper on the changing<br />

patterns of shark attacks in Australian<br />

waters. We asked him a couple of<br />

questions in relation to all manner of<br />

things to do with sharks.<br />

Are shark numbers dwindling? Is<br />

this the case with large predatory<br />

sharks such as Great Whites,<br />

Tigers and Bull sharks?<br />

[JW] Sharks generally are under a<br />

lot of fishing pressure around the<br />

world and commercial fisheries have<br />

experienced downturns in catches to<br />

varying degrees. The practice of finning<br />

sharks and discarding the shark’s body<br />

has severely impacted on many shark<br />

species. However, of the three species<br />

you note, only the White shark is<br />

protected because of declines in their<br />

population. The Tiger and Bull sharks in<br />

Australia are not known to have been<br />

adversely impacted by commercial<br />

fishing at this time but have been in<br />

other parts of the world.<br />

If the numbers are dwindling,<br />

why does there appear to be an<br />

increased number of incidents<br />

involving Great Whites in Western<br />

Australia for example?<br />

[JW] In the recent paper I published<br />

I discussed the increase in shark<br />

attacks specifically over the last 20<br />

years and the correlation between<br />

the increasing population and water<br />

use (particularly surfers) in Australia.<br />

Surfers have had a 300% increase<br />

in attacks compared to the previous<br />

20 year period. But again it reflects<br />

58 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


the increase in people in the water and<br />

the wide spread use of wetsuits that<br />

allow more people to spend more time in<br />

cooler waters than ever before.<br />

Sharks have been on this earth for 400<br />

million years and humans for around<br />

200 thousand years. However, it is only<br />

in the last century that people have<br />

regularly entered the ocean on mass<br />

to swim. Sharks have not eaten people<br />

regularly, nor are humans in the water<br />

for long enough to allow sharks to eat<br />

humans consistently to include us in<br />

their natural diet. In some cases sharks<br />

have consumed humans but this is a rare<br />

event. If sharks did eat humans as part<br />

of their natural diet there would be tens<br />

of thousands of people attacked every<br />

year and this clearly does not occur.<br />

Is there an increased presence of<br />

Bull sharks in our canals, river and<br />

estuary systems?<br />

[JW] To my knowledge the Bull shark<br />

has not increased in numbers in their<br />

natural habitat. There is a lot more<br />

research happening these days due to<br />

a Bull shark attack on a Navy diver in<br />

Sydney Harbour in Feb 2009 and acoustic<br />

tracking has produced some great results<br />

on their movement up and down the<br />

east coast. Again, more people in the<br />

water does increase the risk and with<br />

the advent of man-made canals in QLD<br />

they are a great place for Bull sharks to<br />

grow up and feed and as they get bigger.<br />

They have been known to bite humans<br />

swimming in those canals.<br />

Taronga Zoo maintains records on<br />

shark related incidents in Australia.<br />

Is it conceivable that there are some<br />

cases that go unreported and that<br />

indeed more people fall victim to<br />

shark attacks than those recorded?<br />

[JW] I can only speak about the last<br />

30 years that I have been investigating<br />

shark attacks. It is inconceivable that<br />

a shark attack could go unnoticed in<br />

Australia as these days the media are<br />

usually informed by a mobile phone call<br />

almost immediately.<br />

Over the years there have been a few<br />

people - mostly shark hunters - that have<br />

a vested interest in promoting paranoia<br />

about sharks within the general public<br />

claiming that anyone who ever went to<br />

a beach and goes missing was killed<br />

by a shark and that is a preposterous<br />

suggestion. There needs to some<br />

accountability for what people say.<br />

These people clearly are not accountable<br />

and will say anything to promote<br />

themselves or their business.<br />

From John West’s paper on Changing patterns of<br />

shark attacks in Australian waters.<br />

• Records of shark attacks in Australia have been kept since<br />

the early days of settlement (first attack recorded in 1791).<br />

To standardise reporting, the Australian Shark Attack File<br />

(ASAF) was developed in 1984.<br />

• A ‘shark attack’ is defined as any human–shark interaction,<br />

where either a shark makes a determined attempt to<br />

attack a person who is alive and in the water, or the shark<br />

attacks equipment held by the victim or a small-water craft<br />

containing the victim.<br />

• Incidents classified as ‘provoked’ are not included in the<br />

present paper such as where the person was fishing for,<br />

spearing, handling a shark etc.<br />

• Since 1900 there have been 540 recorded unprovoked<br />

attacks, including 153 fatalities, 302 injuries and 85<br />

incidents where no injury occurred.<br />

• In the first half of the 20th century, there was an increase in<br />

the number of recorded shark attacks, culminating in a peak<br />

in the 1930s when there were 74 incidents. The number of<br />

attacks then dropped, to stabilize to 35 incidents per decade<br />

from the 1940s to the 1970s.<br />

• Between 1990–1999, there has been a 16% increase in<br />

reported attacks, with a 25% increase in the past 10 years.<br />

• Since 1990, 12 species of shark were identified as<br />

responsible for unprovoked attacks. The three species<br />

historically considered to represent the biggest threat to<br />

humans (the White, Tiger and Bull shark combined) represent<br />

48% of attacks. A further 20% of attacks was attributed to<br />

the whaler group and 20% for the Wobbegong shark.<br />

• Because of increased activities occurring in cooler waters all<br />

year round, 49% of all shark-attack victims were wearing a<br />

wetsuit. There is no suggestion that wetsuits are the cause of<br />

the attack, but rather their use has allowed people to extend<br />

their time in the water, increasing the risk of encountering a<br />

shark attack.<br />

• Of the 54 incidents where a physical diversionary action was<br />

taken by the victim, 32% reported no change to the attack<br />

behaviour.<br />

• The commonly held belief you were more susceptible to<br />

attack at dawn or dusk due to sharks’ nocturnal feeding<br />

behaviour is not necessarily true. Of the three main groups<br />

of sharks implicated in attacks, each are relatively evenly<br />

represented throughout the day suggesting sharks are often<br />

opportunistic and inquisitive regardless of the time of day.<br />

• The popularity of surfing in current-day Australia was<br />

highlighted in a 2005–2006 survey, which estimated that<br />

12% of the adult population of Australian cities participated<br />

in surfing, resulting in 1.68 million recreational surfers.<br />

(www.surfersvillage.com, 10 June 2009). Applying a 20%<br />

increase, similar to the percentage increase recorded for<br />

beach visitations, it’s conservatively estimated that there<br />

were 2.061 million recreational surfers in Australia in 2009.<br />

• There has been a 310% increase in shark attacks on surfers<br />

since 1999 that appear to be primarily due to the increased<br />

popularity of surfing.<br />

• Analysis of the distribution of shark attacks indicates that<br />

91% in the past two decades have occurred away from<br />

the major population centres, along the eastern coast<br />

where shark-control programs are not deployed. This may<br />

be interpreted as highlighting the efficiency of the various<br />

shark-meshing programs in reducing shark attacks.<br />

ONLY THREE SPECIES<br />

OF SHARK HAVE BEEN<br />

RESPONSIBLE FOR<br />

FATAL ATTACKS OVER<br />

THE PAST 20 YEARS.<br />

• WHITE SHARK, with an<br />

increase from 24 incidents<br />

during the previous two decades<br />

to 55 incidents, including 15<br />

fatalities, 23 injuries and 17<br />

uninjured incidents<br />

• BULL SHARK, with an increase<br />

from three incidents during<br />

the previous two decades to<br />

25 incidents, including four<br />

fatalities, 15 injuries and six<br />

uninjured incidents<br />

• TIGER SHARK, with a<br />

decrease from 14 incidents for<br />

the previous two decades down<br />

to 10 incidents, including three<br />

fatalities, two injuries and five<br />

uninjured incidents<br />

• Of the 15 fatalities attributed to<br />

White sharks, seven involved a<br />

single bite and seven resulted<br />

from multiple bites.<br />

• Over 80% of incidents involved<br />

White sharks and Tiger sharks<br />

larger than 3m. For Bull sharks,<br />

78% of incidents involved<br />

sharks larger than 2m.<br />

• The activities of victims<br />

(1990–2009) were recorded<br />

for 186 incidents, of which 78<br />

(42%) occurred while surfing on<br />

a board or body board.<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

59


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Passionate conservationist BRETT BAM - owner/operator of Liquid<br />

Getaway, a whale watching and marine tourism business on the Sunshine<br />

Coast, feels very strongly about our role and responsibility on protecting<br />

these creatures.<br />

“Australia has 35 000 kms of beaches with 166 species of sharks living in the<br />

water off those beaches. Most of these are completely harmless and would<br />

never bite anything as large and dangerous as Homo sapiens.<br />

“Once you take into account all the facts, you begin to realise that sharks are<br />

specifically not hunters of men. If sharks really were man eaters, then men<br />

would not be able to surf or dive or even swim in the sea, because we would be<br />

constantly eaten by the oceans supreme predator.<br />

“In fact, the reverse is true. We prey on sharks, and kill them in their millions.<br />

Nobody knows what the exact figure is, but it is estimated to be in excess of<br />

100 million sharks killed by humans every year. We kill them in a wide variety of<br />

cruel ways, the cruelest of which is by far - shark-finning.<br />

“This is very dangerous behaviour for an environmentally enlightened<br />

society to undertake. We are causing a rather large dent in the worlds shark<br />

population. If we succeed in making the shark an endangered species (and<br />

they are literally racing towards extinction in this generation), we effectively<br />

remove the apex predator from the environment. This has far reaching<br />

consequences. The sharks stop hunting and populations they previously kept<br />

in check rage out of control and decimate other populations further down the<br />

food chain. This knock on effect will eventually have a dramatic influence on<br />

the oceans and could even lead to a complete collapse of the ecosystem. And<br />

we all know how dependent humans are on the oceans.<br />

“As always, it starts with us and our attitude. We have to accept the shark as<br />

our friend, rather than as the terrible killer it has always been portrayed as. It<br />

is easy to turn the shark into a villain because they are hardly cute and cuddly<br />

animals, but they are in desperate need of our protection.<br />

“I made contact with one of the world leaders in shark research, South African<br />

Mark Addison. He has spent decades swimming with sharks. His predominant<br />

attitude is one of awe and amazement, not fear. He talks about what you<br />

should do if approached by a large shark.”<br />

60 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


LATEST: DEBATE<br />

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“I will just start off by saying that<br />

clearly one approach may not fit<br />

each species and each encounter<br />

as there are so many variables but<br />

some of the insights I have gleaned<br />

may be of some value the next time<br />

a surfer comes into contact with a<br />

shark and wonders what to do to<br />

influence the outcome.<br />

“We know that the small Tiger<br />

sharks encountered inshore pose<br />

little or no risk to surfers. In terms<br />

of their life cycle, they are merely<br />

hiding from other sharks and taking<br />

advantage of soft foods such as<br />

rays and fish. Further to this, even<br />

the bigger Tigers are incredibly<br />

cautious and you would probably<br />

be on your next wave before it<br />

made any significant approach in<br />

your direction, even with a long lull<br />

between sets. The Tiger however<br />

is a shark that often investigates<br />

things before it makes an effort<br />

to swallow it and thus this needs<br />

attention in terms of how to avoid it<br />

taking the next step.<br />

“Blacktips on the other hand are<br />

much more nosey and would<br />

approach readily if in numbers. They<br />

need a big pack before they get<br />

brave and are feeding on small fish<br />

and rays so they really do not see a<br />

surfer as a possible meal. That said<br />

they are equally unable to resist<br />

the temptation of investigating a<br />

splash and this obviously brings<br />

them into consideration when you<br />

are scratching for a wave. I have<br />

not found this species to try to<br />

‘investigate’ objects. It is rather<br />

a ‘bite first, ask questions later’<br />

approach to feeding.<br />

“White sharks are very curious and<br />

will bite any object in the water to<br />

better understand what it is. This<br />

is obviously a risk to something<br />

as puny as a human and has<br />

subsequently earned them the tag<br />

of “man-eater” when in fact it is<br />

more accurate to refer to them as<br />

“man-spitter-outers”. They mouth<br />

and spit out, but that could be a<br />

bite through a femoral artery, or it<br />

could be at a remote beach with no<br />

potential medical assistance.<br />

“What I have noticed is that even<br />

Whites will make two or three<br />

investigatory circuits of the object of<br />

curiosity. These investigatory circles<br />

begin wide and then narrow down<br />

to the point of contact. If you either<br />

catch a wave or approach at this<br />

time, it is often enough to negate<br />

any further approach by the animal.<br />

“The problem in many of the cases,<br />

is that the surfer has no sighting of<br />

the animal before the last, and now<br />

deliberate contact. For me, attack<br />

is the best form of defense with<br />

sharks and I would approach - not<br />

flailing wildly however - and own<br />

the space.<br />

“The key for me, when in the water<br />

with the above mentioned sharks,<br />

and the Bull shark, is clearly to own<br />

the space. This is easy when you<br />

are snorkeling as you are sighted<br />

and thus you can make eye contact<br />

with the animal which is usually<br />

enough but in a slightly boisterous<br />

shark you need to escalate the<br />

encounter to move into its space<br />

and dominate. Much like the<br />

neighbours dog, which will terrorise<br />

you if it detects you are nervous<br />

or scared, but is putty if you are<br />

confident and dominant.<br />

“When surfing, you are unsighted<br />

and distracted. I am not sure you<br />

have the time to implement my<br />

suggestions and are probably in a<br />

struggle for life and limb. If you can<br />

see the animal then own the space,<br />

if you can not, then opt for the<br />

‘Beam me up, Scotty’ option and get<br />

the next wave to shore.”<br />

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sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

61


LATEST: DEBATE<br />

62 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


IT’S HARD NOT TO BE GRIPPED<br />

BY A TALE OF AN ENCOUNTER.<br />

HERE ARE A FEW TALES AND<br />

THOUGHTS ON SHARKS THAT<br />

HAVE BEEN SHARED WITH US ON<br />

OUR TRAVELS ALONG THE COAST.<br />

Squizzy Taylor<br />

John Morgan, Maddog Surf Centre, Byron Bay<br />

As a father of three myself, it goes without saying<br />

that Father’s Day is full of surprises. John Morgan<br />

however got a little bit more of a surprise on Father’s<br />

Day in 2008. Trying out his new SUP at Clarkes<br />

Beach he had just caught a wave and was heading<br />

back when he came a cropper going over a break. He<br />

felt a swirl under his board, immediately sensed it<br />

was a shark and subsequently became the first man<br />

to ski with a SUP.<br />

John had inadvertently hooked his leg rope to a<br />

3 metre shark who towed him out to sea whilst<br />

he clambered to stay on the back of his SUP as<br />

he travelled backwards at the rate of knots. John<br />

recounts the story, “It took all my strength to hold<br />

on and stop from slipping off the board. There was<br />

whitewater coming off the back of the board. It was<br />

really hard to stay on which was sort of uncool you<br />

know.”<br />

Jed Done, Bushrat Surfboards<br />

Surfing alone is par for the course down Jed’s way on<br />

the Far South Coast of New South Wales. Do sharks<br />

play on his mind? Jed gives us his perspective.<br />

“I have seen quite a few but the surf is too good to let it<br />

phase you too much. You think about them but you kind<br />

of get used to it.”<br />

“The biggest White I have seen was at the Merimbula<br />

Bar. It was a good 4 to 5 meters and coming straight at<br />

us. There was about 30 to 40 people in the lineup. 80%<br />

turned around and went in. I stayed in with a couple of<br />

mates. It went past one way, came back, went under<br />

us… it’s fin would have been as thick as this longneck.”<br />

Yes we were drinking beer when Jed told this story. A<br />

good shark story cannot be told without one. Plus the<br />

longknecks helped to graphically represent the size of<br />

the shark.<br />

“I have had another smaller White swim a couple of<br />

feet beneath me, roll and have a good long look at me. I<br />

saw the big black eye.<br />

“But honestly, Whites don’t attack people, in my mind.<br />

They just have a curious inspection of what you are. Too<br />

many people get away. You hear on the news, ‘A surfer<br />

was attacked by a Great White... and he managed to get<br />

away.’ He didn’t get attacked by a 5-metre White. The<br />

shark was just curious and gave him a bit of a nudge.<br />

“It’s like saying ‘I just had a fight with this gigantic guy<br />

at the pub and got away with it.’ He was just politely<br />

telling you to get lost.”<br />

Brian ‘Squizzy’ Taylor, highly respected Yorke<br />

Peninsula, South Australian surfer<br />

“The reality of it is, I have surfed for nearly 35<br />

years and maybe twice I have had to get out of<br />

the water. Like anything, you just read the signs.<br />

If there are lots of fish about, lots of birds, seals<br />

shooting off in different directions and lots of<br />

things happening in the water, you go safety first.<br />

“One of those occasions was years ago down<br />

at Victor Harbor. There was 12 of us out in the<br />

water and we had to clear out. A big White<br />

Pointer came across the sand bank towards us<br />

and we managed to paddle about 60m to a rocky<br />

headland and scampered up the rocks.<br />

“We were lucky because it was the start of<br />

summer and the government was performing<br />

helicopter beach surveillance. The helicopter<br />

starting circling and got closer and then over the<br />

loud hailer said, ‘Get out of the water. There is<br />

a large shark nearby.’ Within them finishing that<br />

sentence, this shark appeared across the next set<br />

of waves. It was a good 4 to 5 meters.<br />

“That beach and the neighbouring beach used to<br />

have tonnes of salmon in their day through the<br />

‘70s and early ‘80s but those beaches have been<br />

fairly heavily fished out now.<br />

“I guess being a South Australian surfer you are<br />

always surfing rather remote areas and have to<br />

be careful. It’s a bit of a lottery isn’t it. You go out<br />

and surf all the time and sooner or later you are<br />

going to encounter something. Down here you<br />

often surf on your own and you really do increase<br />

your chances.”<br />

ABOVE: Jed Bushrat in an aerial shark-dodge<br />

Lewis Dowie, Kangaroo Island, South Australia,<br />

<strong>September</strong> 2005<br />

Lewis Dowie’s personal account of the attack on<br />

his mate, Josh Berris, shows you can’t always<br />

read the signs.<br />

“We always had the theory that if the seals got<br />

out of the water there was a shark around but in<br />

this instance they didn’t, so that theory kind of<br />

fell through.<br />

“There were six of us out; me, my brother<br />

Nathan, my dad Dave, a family friend Lee, Josh<br />

and his mate Shane. We were surfing a pretty<br />

remote break on Kangaroo Island. It’s a long walk<br />

in and the break is right in the middle of a seal<br />

colony. The take off zone is actually right where<br />

the seals are playing around.<br />

“We had been in the surf about an hour when it<br />

happened. Josh was probably the farthest out<br />

near my dad and Lee. Nathan, Shane and I were<br />

a fair way further in.<br />

“I think I remember Josh giving a bit of yell and<br />

the shark’s head coming out of the water and<br />

him trying to push it away. At that point, me, my<br />

brother and Shane bailed and caught the same<br />

wave in so we didn’t really see anything else. It<br />

was a reflex action to get out of there straight<br />

away without even thinking about it.<br />

“It was only about a 20 to 30m paddle straight<br />

in. But where the wave breaks it does drop off<br />

pretty quickly.<br />

“Talking to the other guys, the shark had<br />

apparently come up, had an initial go at Josh and<br />

he basically pushed it off. It then came back and<br />

knocked him off his board. It grabbed a hold of<br />

his board and started thrashing around with it.<br />

Josh was getting dragged along for a bit before<br />

he managed to get his legrope off. The older guy,<br />

Lee, then paddled over to Josh, got him onto his<br />

board and caught a wave into the rocks.<br />

“Josh was pretty lucky. He only received a couple<br />

of long gashes on the front of both his shins.<br />

My brother and I had meanwhile grabbed some<br />

towels and leggies and ran over to where they<br />

came in.<br />

“Dad and Lee managed to bandage him up<br />

with towels and shirts, while my brother and<br />

I ran back to the cars to call the ambos and<br />

helicopter.”<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

63


64 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


PHOTO: Hermanus Backpackers<br />

We hear from John Hinks, a<br />

professional fisherman and surfer<br />

from Port Lincoln in South Australia,<br />

who, due to the nature of his work,<br />

sees these big ones more than most.<br />

With an average full-grown length<br />

of about 4-5m and weighing in at<br />

just over a ton, most experts contend<br />

a White’s maximum size is about<br />

6m (20 ft), with a maximum weight<br />

of about 1,900 kilograms - almost<br />

2 tons, while the Guinness Book of<br />

World Records lists the largest one<br />

caught in Australia at 11m (36 ft)<br />

captured near Port Fairy in the 1870s.<br />

Great Whites can detect your<br />

slightest movement through their<br />

Ampullae of Lorenzini, special<br />

sensing organs that detect the<br />

electromagnetic field emitted by the<br />

movement of living animals<br />

They can detect half a billionth of a<br />

volt, which is equivalent to detecting<br />

a flashlight battery from 1,600<br />

kilometres away, so you can run,<br />

(swim) but you can’t hide. They can<br />

detect your heart beat so if you have<br />

just seen one, your ticker is probably<br />

acting as a giant homing beacon.<br />

But these organs are used locate<br />

prey far away. They then use smell<br />

and hearing to further verify that the<br />

target is food. At close range, the<br />

shark utilises sight for the attack.<br />

Despite the common myth that Great<br />

Whites are non-thinking, instinctdriven,<br />

eating machines studies have<br />

indicated they possess powerful<br />

problem-solving skills.<br />

In 1987, near Smitswinkle Bay,<br />

South Africa, a group of up to<br />

seven Great White sharks worked<br />

together to relocate the partially<br />

beached body of a dead whale to<br />

deeper waters to feed.<br />

Despite being pretty much numero<br />

uno in the ocean, Whites can fall<br />

victim to one other bad boy of the sea,<br />

the Orca. Search for “Shark Orca” on<br />

YouTube to see some Killer Whales<br />

with a penchant for white meat.<br />

The only species of shark protected in<br />

Australia is the Great White and the<br />

Grey Nurse.<br />

“I am a pro tuna fisherman so I see a fair few Great Whites.<br />

The last time I had an encounter was in a small dinghy. I was<br />

drift fishing a couple of miles offshore. It was a nice glassy,<br />

calm afternoon. I saw the tip of a fin cut through the water<br />

about a 100 metres away. It came closer and closer until I<br />

could see the shape underneath it. I thought, ‘Oh yeah, that’s<br />

a Pointer.’ It came a bit closer and turned out to be 16 footer. It<br />

was roughly 3 feet longer than my 13 foot dinghy.<br />

“Anyhow, it just had this pattern it followed. They do it every<br />

time. He would swim 100ft in front of my boat, head straight<br />

towards me, fin out of the water, roll sideways and look me in<br />

the eye and go behind my boat. Head 100ft in front of the boat,<br />

straight towards me and swing back around the boat. I reckon<br />

they have good visibility. He knew what I was.<br />

“It was doing this for about 40 minutes and I was really<br />

enjoying the show. But I then realised these circles were<br />

getting tighter and tighter and tighter and then I hit the panic<br />

button. I thought, ‘Shit, I just might make a phone call here’<br />

and as soon as I grabbed my mobile, he was chewing on<br />

my outboard. It was just: Bang! Bang! Bang! Side to side. I<br />

dropped the phone. I was just hanging on, squatting in the<br />

dinghy thinking, ‘you idiot. You’ve left this too late.’<br />

“I’m watching my mobile slide from side to side on the<br />

bottom of the dinghy. It finishes with the outboard and then<br />

comes along the side of the boat and starts rocking it with its<br />

pectoral and side fin.<br />

“Then the whole circus started again. It went a 100ft in front of<br />

the dinghy but this time it came straight at the dinghy and was<br />

pushing a bow wave and I just thought, ‘Ohh, I have to get out<br />

of here.’ I started the outboard. It started first time thankfully. I<br />

went a couple of kilometers, pulled up and grabbed my phone<br />

to tell a mate what had just happened and bloody hell, it’s on<br />

the move and coming at me again. I put the phone down and<br />

got the hell out of there. Further on, I came across a mate of<br />

mine who is also a pro fisherman. I pull over and he says, ‘You<br />

look like you’ve seen a White Pointer.’”<br />

We often hear of sharks mistaking us for prey?<br />

“Does prey look like a 13 foot dinghy with an outboard? He<br />

knew I was pulling fish and there was plenty of vibration on<br />

my line. He was inquisitive and then he became frustrated. It<br />

didn’t want the King George Whiting. It wanted me. I am not<br />

a disbeliever they will occasionally mistake you for prey. But I<br />

also believe that like anything that lives, they get hungry. If you<br />

are in the wrong place at the wrong time, they will eat you.”<br />

Have you had an encounter surfing?<br />

“My favourite waves are up in The Great Australian Bight. Last<br />

autumn we got chased in. The boys and me are sitting on the<br />

bowl. There was 5 or 6 of us out there. I am sitting a bit wider<br />

than them. They have that look on their face. ‘Johno, we just<br />

seen one. 30 foot over there. It’s time to go in.’<br />

“I was on the back of the pack thinking, ‘Why am I always on<br />

the back of the pack?’ The same thing happened the autumn<br />

before. When you see a fin in The Bight you generally know<br />

it is a fin of consequence. You go in and don’t stuff around.<br />

But as usual, there’s never a wave in sight when these things<br />

happen.<br />

“I have the up most respect for Pointers. If I ever got knocked<br />

off by one, I would be irate if they hunted it down. We play<br />

in their domain. That is our choice. Sometimes you are in the<br />

wrong place at the wrong time. That’s all there is to it. Bang,<br />

you’re gone.’<br />

“Respect the ocean and respect what is in the ocean. Those<br />

big fish are in there for survival and it is their playground.”<br />

Any places you wouldn’t surf?<br />

“Ohhh well... you know... no, there probably isn’t. There is an<br />

island out from Port Lincoln. Great wave, sharkiest spot. There’s<br />

a few tuna farms only a mile away from the takeoff. The tuna<br />

guys will duck over after feeding the fish and tell us how many<br />

big ones are about just as we enter the water. We’re just like,<br />

‘Righto, keep your eyes on the barrel, keep surfing.’”<br />

Have shark dives heightened Great White curiosity?<br />

“Those blokes go past me each day in summer when I’m<br />

fishing. They run an incredibly successful operation and<br />

provide an incredible experience for the divers that go down<br />

in the cage. As a surfer, you would have to be a fearless to<br />

ever want to do that. Once you have seen one that close, it is<br />

a much harder picture to put out of your mind when surfing.<br />

Everyone is different but surely seeing a 15-foot shark in attack<br />

mode must leave a lasting impression. That is a living dinosaur<br />

right there.<br />

“Have these dives played a part in the sharks’ curiosity in<br />

humans? Definitely so.”<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

65


Are White Pointers in decline, in<br />

your opinion?<br />

“There are certainly no less White<br />

Pointers around the West Coast and<br />

South Australia. They are more stories<br />

about them all the time. As a surfer I<br />

don’t want to see them. But surfing and<br />

fishing these parts, you see them.<br />

“They are such an incredible thing to<br />

see. They are like a whale with teeth.<br />

You are looking at this thing and it<br />

is just huge. It’s quite a euphoric<br />

experience... when you are not<br />

surfing.<br />

“When you see a whale you never tire<br />

of seeing that majestic creature in the<br />

water. Pointers are kind of like that.<br />

“Tuna fishing in Point Lincoln, there’s<br />

more and more of them each year<br />

and each year they will be around the<br />

harvest boats, all hungry.”<br />

The Shark Shield device?<br />

“Security blanket. Like wearing a<br />

bandaid in the water. Think of a<br />

creature that weighs over a tonne,<br />

coming at battle ramp speed that<br />

has decided it’s going to make a hit.<br />

Think of the momentum when it’s at<br />

full speed flying. Do you think it can<br />

stop and go in reverse whilst in attack<br />

mode? I believe these pods work at a<br />

6ft distance before the shark gets a<br />

bit of a sting off them.”<br />

Do you believe in rogue sharks?<br />

“I just think when a shark is ready and<br />

he wants to feed – just don’t be there.”<br />

Do you believe some shark<br />

attacks go unreported?<br />

“The ocean holds a lot of secrets.<br />

Anyone that is lost at sea in these<br />

parts, I don’t fancy their chances of<br />

not getting a visitor...“<br />

There may be 3-4 species of sharks<br />

responsible for accidental attacks on<br />

humans but there are over 166 species<br />

of sharks living off Australia’s 35,000 km<br />

of beaches. Most of these species are<br />

completely harmless.<br />

• Ironically it’s the human consumption<br />

of sharks that may determine the<br />

ultimate fate of the species.<br />

• It is estimated over 100 million<br />

sharks are removed from the oceans<br />

worldwide every year.<br />

• As a result, more than 100 shark<br />

species are listed as exploited.<br />

• Scores are either endangered or<br />

threatened.<br />

• It is reported in the Mediterranean<br />

Sea, sharks such as the Mako and<br />

Hammerhead have declined in<br />

number by more than 95% in the<br />

last 30 years.<br />

• In the Gulf of Mexico, home to a<br />

number of large sharks such as the<br />

Great White, there’s been a reported<br />

75% drop in the last 15 years.<br />

• Western fishermen often<br />

supplement their income with the<br />

accidental netting of sharks within<br />

their catch. Surely, most of us have<br />

had fish’n’chips at some time. Well,<br />

this is often ‘flake’, which is shark.<br />

• But most of the exploitation of<br />

sharks is due to the cruel practice of<br />

‘finning’, where the shark’s fins are<br />

sliced off and the shark then thrown<br />

back into the water to sink to the<br />

bottom. Unable to swim, the shark<br />

drowns.<br />

• This inhumane practice is to simply<br />

feed the need for shark fin soup<br />

in many Asian countries, namely<br />

China and Hong Kong. The soup is<br />

considered an aphrodisiac.<br />

• Those who doubt how cruel the<br />

practice of shark-finning is should<br />

watch this clip. www.sharks.org/<br />

sri-main-blog/241-recipe-for-sharkfin-soup.html<br />

• The shark, this amazing apex<br />

predator that has been in our oceans<br />

for some 400 million years, just may<br />

be struck down by humans in less<br />

than 100.<br />

When you consider these damning facts,<br />

what does this say about humans? Rightly<br />

or wrongly sharks may attack us, but the<br />

likelihood is extremely remote.<br />

Sharks, on the other fin, have more to<br />

fear about us, than we do from them.<br />

The most unfortunate outcome of human interactions with sharks is<br />

obviously the loss of human life. These are a few unhappy tales.<br />

66 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


If we haven’t entirely put you off surfing all together with the intriguing<br />

facts, figures, statistics and stories contained in this piece, that’s good.<br />

At least that makes one of us.<br />

On a serious note though, your chances of getting attacked by a shark<br />

are extremely rare. Just be sure to always have your wits about you and<br />

don’t take any unnecessary risks. By taking a common sense approach to<br />

your surfing, you can just about ensure you continue to enjoy the ocean<br />

for all the joy she brings.<br />

Other than that, try and always surf with a mate who is a slower<br />

swimmer than you. Remember, it is not a question of whether you can<br />

outswim the shark, just whether you can outswim your mate. Why the<br />

hell do you think I surf with Mark all the time?<br />

If you are fascinated by sharks, here are some websites you may find<br />

interesting for further reading.<br />

Shark facts and conservation<br />

www.taronga.org.au/animals-conservation/conservation-science/australianshark-attack-file/australian-shark-attack-file<br />

(The Australian Shark Attack File)<br />

www.flmnh.ufl.edu/fish/Sharks/ISAF/ISAF.htm (International Shark Attack File)<br />

www.sharks.org (Shark Research Institute)<br />

www.seashepherd.org<br />

www.whitesharktrust.org<br />

www.bluewilderness.co.za<br />

The chilling and macabre<br />

www.sharkattacksurvivors.com<br />

www.swimatyourownrisk.com<br />

www.fearbeneath.com<br />

www.jawshark.com<br />

www.sharkattacks.com<br />

www.sharkattackphotos.com<br />

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70 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


Maurice scores a throaty one<br />

and spreads his wings<br />

TRAVEL: PLANE TRIP<br />

SURF★CHILE<br />

A SOUTH AMERICAN ADVENTURE<br />

Joel Coleman of Saltmotion Gallery in Manly sure gets around. In a good way, that is. He’s<br />

chalked up more international travel time in a few short months than most people get to do in a<br />

lifetime. Fortunately for the less fortunate, he’s a master of the lens and handy with a pen.<br />

Well, laptop really - the figurative pen...<br />

If you enjoyed his laidback discoveries in the Solomon Islands last edition, hold onto your hat<br />

as he heads to South America to discover some unridden waves in the cold waters of the aptly<br />

named Republic of Chile. With 6,435 kilometres of Pacific coastline - running around half the<br />

length of the entire South American continent - there’s definitely plenty of choice to enjoy.<br />

WORDS & PHOTOS: JOEL COLEMAN<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

71


I started going to a ‘Yoga for Surfers’ class in<br />

Sydney a few years ago. At first I thought the<br />

teacher was from Brazil, I was wrong.<br />

After attending Maurice’s classes regularly for<br />

some time and getting to know him a little, he<br />

let on that he was off for a few months to Chile,<br />

his homeland. He jokingly invited me to come<br />

over and surf with him for a few weeks. I let the<br />

invite slide.<br />

Twelve months later and Maurice mentioned<br />

again that he was heading on his annual<br />

pilgrimage to see his family and take a few<br />

weeks off to surf. He also let on about the quality<br />

of the waves and the obscene number of perfect<br />

left hand point breaks that were on offer. When I<br />

told my wife that I wanted to go on another surf<br />

trip this year she said “OK, but if you’re going to<br />

South America I’m coming”. My wife happens<br />

to be the best non-surfing partner imaginable,<br />

so I jumped at the chance to share a bit of an<br />

adventure with her. Maurice’s partner was also<br />

coming and without hesitating I said yes. We<br />

booked the tickets.<br />

A few weeks before we were due to go, Maurice<br />

had us up to his place for dinner to discuss the<br />

trip. Excitement boiled over when he pulled out<br />

his laptop to show a few home videos featuring<br />

some of the point breaks we would be visiting.<br />

This country has waves, perfect waves, and lots<br />

of them! Over dinner Maurice ran us through<br />

his plans for the trip and told us what we<br />

would need to bring. When I asked about water<br />

temperature he just smiled and said, get a new<br />

wetsuit, a good one, at least a 4/3 and combo it<br />

up with boots, gloves and a hood…don’t skimp<br />

on cheap stuff either!<br />

I hate being cold, no one likes it! So when I went<br />

up to the local surf shop I told the guys to kit me<br />

out in whatever was available to keep me warm!<br />

I opted for everything listed above as well as a<br />

thermal rashie (which was a golden piece of kit)<br />

and I also borrowed one of those new heated<br />

vests. The heated vest was amazing for the first<br />

few sessions before it packed in and stopped<br />

working! After that I was happy to surf without<br />

it and only got really cold a few times. I guess<br />

what I am saying is, if you invest in some quality<br />

equipment and bring the right gear, surfing here<br />

is a little chilly, but certainly worth the effort.<br />

When it came to which boards to take it was<br />

a little harder for me to make the decision. It<br />

had been suggested to bring suitable boards<br />

for big powerful waves. Expect nothing smaller<br />

than four foot and the possibility of a lot bigger.<br />

I opted for a 6’4 and a 6’10 gun. Unfortunately<br />

for me, the day before we left a decent swell<br />

hit Sydney and I broke my 6’4! I did a mad<br />

dash around the local surf shops and found a<br />

reasonable second hand 6’3 that would do the<br />

trick. If I didn’t have a load of camera gear to<br />

take over as well I probably would have opted to<br />

bring a third board; something in the middle like<br />

a semi-gun, because breaking boards in Chile is a<br />

very real possibility.<br />

The flight to Santiago from Sydney is a long one.<br />

Take some entertainment with you. When you<br />

arrive you get the added bonus of having your<br />

body clock turned inside out by being on the<br />

other side of the planet. When Maurice met us<br />

at the airport he had a perfect cure. He took us<br />

to his mum’s place for a home cooked meal while<br />

sitting around the fireplace.<br />

Before I get into the detail of the first days<br />

surfing I should tell you a little more about the<br />

crew I was travelling with. Firstly there was<br />

Sherrie - my wife - and I. We were using this<br />

trip as a bit of time out and a holiday for both of<br />

us, with the added bonus of mixing a little work<br />

(photographing) in as well. Maurice was the<br />

instigator of the trip and our ‘guide’. His partner,<br />

Julie, was along for the adventure and Maurice’s<br />

mate, Dylan, completed the crew.<br />

Now a normal surf trip that involves a bunch<br />

of blokes in a car for long stretches of tarmac<br />

can get a little tribal. Toilet stops are usually<br />

governed by the person with the strongest<br />

bladder and fuel for the stomach is often<br />

purchased at the same place you get fuel for the<br />

car. Most of us are fine with that and have been<br />

‘road tripping’ for waves that way since the first<br />

in our group of mates got his driver’s license.<br />

This trip was to be a little different… Maurice<br />

and Jules are both yoga instructors and into<br />

clean, organic peace, love-and-mung-beans-style<br />

living. Dylan had the world’s best alternative to<br />

‘fast food.’ That being, delicately cooked ‘slow<br />

food’ made from whatever fresh ingredients<br />

we could find along the way - frustrating at<br />

times, but always worth the wait! Sherrie and I<br />

happily falling somewhere in the middle - I have<br />

a chocolate problem. The adventure through<br />

Chile became as much about the meals cooked,<br />

the recipes conjured, and the delights slapped<br />

together on the road, as it was about the waves<br />

and the photographic opportunities. Sure there<br />

were a few Chilenitos and Berliners (local cakes)<br />

wolfed down along the way, but we all came<br />

home from this trip without that grease hangover<br />

that can so often accompany a ‘road trip.’<br />

Rubber up and<br />

get out there<br />

72 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


The line-up shot of<br />

our last session<br />

Curious locals in the line-up.<br />

“THIS TRIP WAS TO BE<br />

A LITTLE DIFFERENT...”<br />

Afternoon point<br />

perfection<br />

The locals build these cool surf<br />

shacks around the more popular points<br />

Anyone seen a sea lion?.<br />

TRAVEL: PLANE TRIP<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

73


TRAVEL: PLANE TRIP<br />

“AFTER<br />

ATTACKING A FEW<br />

LEFT HAND WALLS<br />

THERE WAS NO<br />

ROOM TO THINK<br />

ABOUT BEING<br />

COLD ANY MORE”<br />

The first morning we were to hit the road and head<br />

south to Pichilemu – the capital of Chilean surfing.<br />

Taking the scenic road south we reached Pichilemu<br />

around lunchtime. The first stop was a famous<br />

point break – what a way to start the trip! We were<br />

blessed with some afternoon sunshine and glassy<br />

four foot waves peeling the length of the point.<br />

A little scared as to how cold the water would<br />

actually be, I was quite surprised when the first<br />

trickle started seeping into my wettie. It was fresh,<br />

but not too bad. I promise you after attacking a few<br />

left hand walls there was no room to think about<br />

being cold any more! Sure if you got caught inside<br />

and had to duck-dive a six wave set then you would<br />

eventually come up with a bit of a brain freeze, but<br />

on the whole it was pretty good.<br />

We stayed in Pichilemu and surfed Punta de Lobos<br />

for a few days, each day providing us with glassy<br />

waves, 4-5 foot and low on crowd numbers. But soon<br />

enough it was time to push further south. An early<br />

start to get a surf in before we hit the road and a<br />

gentle drive through some amazing countryside saw<br />

us cross into the southern states of Chile. Life here<br />

is a little more rural and a lot more relaxed than the<br />

big cities.<br />

I mentioned the organic ‘peace, love and dandelions’<br />

approach to food that this trip was following. On<br />

the drive south we crossed a beautiful section<br />

of countryside which was being used to harvest<br />

organic salt. Dylan spotted a roadside stall and,<br />

with enthusiasm usually reserved for cheering on<br />

a football team, we pulled over to buy a bag of salt<br />

and some local honey. A little further down the road<br />

we found a bakery with freshly baked bread. Honey<br />

sandwiches for lunch and it was damn good.<br />

When we reached our destination - a spot called<br />

Buchupureo - we again lucked into a perfect, blue<br />

sky afternoon. We unloaded our gear into a few very<br />

comfortable cabins and took a walk up the hill to<br />

check the point. It was pumping! The sun turning the<br />

water an impossible shade of ice green and again,<br />

perfect waves peeling down another point!<br />

Excitement levels went into overdrive and I decided<br />

to take advantage of the sunshine with a mellow<br />

looking point set-up and photograph in the water for<br />

the first time on this trip. Walking to the jump off<br />

spot with the camera I heard a local guy behind me<br />

say something. I couldn’t understand what his rapid<br />

fire Chilean Spanish was getting at, but I did catch<br />

a few words. “el gringo loco” - the crazy tourist!<br />

Not sure why I was being called crazy, I leapt in<br />

through a ridiculous shore-break and was pleasantly<br />

surprised the water temp was slightly up on where<br />

we had been the previous day. Or perhaps it was<br />

just the sunshine. Either way it was one of the most<br />

enjoyable sessions I have photographed from the<br />

water for a long time. The boys getting plenty of<br />

sun soaked waves and the pine forested headland<br />

providing a pretty spectacular backdrop. When I<br />

went back later that afternoon to catch a few waves<br />

myself I figured out why the guy called me ‘a crazy<br />

tourist.’ It seems there was a much better jump off<br />

spot, with no rocks, very little shorebreak and half<br />

the swim – live and learn…<br />

Falling into a routine, we spent a week at<br />

Buchupureo. Surfed every day, some days were<br />

better than others, some sunny, one we were totally<br />

fogged in. I would wake each morning at dawn to<br />

check conditions and try and get some early morning<br />

colour for the camera. Dylan would cook his pre-surf<br />

oats and Maurice would get his wetsuit on and make<br />

sure he was the first one in the water. Sherrie and<br />

Jules, let’s just say they preferred the warmth of a<br />

bed to the early Chile mornings…<br />

Through that week, only once did we surf a wobbly<br />

wave with cross-shore winds, and that was our<br />

own fault for procrastinating a little in the morning.<br />

74 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


Maurice on an<br />

“Ice Green“ Express<br />

SURF★CHILE<br />

Bali...<br />

T he best of<br />

both worlds<br />

What I am saying here, is that in the week we<br />

surfed, every day at some stage, there were<br />

perfect conditions - at least 4 foot of swell and<br />

plenty of waves to share amongst us!<br />

It all came together for a few days towards the<br />

end of the week. The swell jacked up into the<br />

6 foot plus range, the winds were virtually non<br />

existent and the sand banks at Buchupureo were<br />

perfect, providing 250m rides the length of the<br />

point until eventually you would kick out in a<br />

beach break, walk around the cliffs and paddle<br />

back out for another one. These are the sessions<br />

we came here to surf, the conditions we were<br />

hoping for and the swell size we dreamed about.<br />

It does get a lot bigger here, however, if the<br />

swell does hit the double extra large size, surfing<br />

options become limited - unless of course, you<br />

are a fearless hellman!<br />

Once the swell started to decline we began to<br />

do a little sightseeing. We visited seal colonies<br />

and traditional water-powered corn mills, walked<br />

around markets in towns to buy fresh food and<br />

trekked to several different beaches to explore<br />

the area a little. Evenings were spent cooking<br />

healthy, belly-filling meals and playing cards.<br />

Given all of us on this trip met through practicing<br />

yoga we squeezed in a few sessions to stretch<br />

and release some tension in our over-surfed<br />

shoulders. I woke up every day to photograph the<br />

amazing scenery, sometimes scoring blue skies<br />

and colour and sometimes getting a lens full of<br />

fog. Overall it was a pretty amazing week. We<br />

thought the best bit of the trip was probably over<br />

but Maurice had a few more surprises up his<br />

sleeve for us.<br />

The drive north was due to take a few days if we<br />

split it up and surfed along the way. We stopped<br />

for a few nights in Pichilemu to surf Punta de<br />

Lobos again, got blown out one morning when<br />

unfortunately, the swell was pretty decent. We<br />

then hit the road again the next day to head<br />

home. Maurice’s suggestion to do a little 4x4<br />

exploring on the way back was greeted with<br />

some excitement. We bounced our way around a<br />

headland and spotted another perfect left hand<br />

point! The excitement levels in the car went<br />

into ‘man-grommet’ overdrive as we realized we<br />

had lucked into a cracker of a last session. Chile<br />

turned it on again, three foot peeling lefts, just us<br />

in the water and a spectacular session to end the<br />

adventure. A few last laughs were provided by<br />

a crazy food-stealing cat that belonged to a surf<br />

shack on the beach. Eventually after the ginger<br />

Dukes<br />

at Bingin<br />

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Bingin, Impossibles, Dreamland<br />

and Balangan. (Surf guide available)<br />

Book now!<br />

info@baliretreats.com.au<br />

www.baliretreats.com.au<br />

or call <strong>07</strong> 5572 0477<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

75


Surf Fitness Training<br />

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To get started with your free surf-specific workout, visit...<br />

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More boards than<br />

you can poke a log at.<br />

TRAVEL: PLANE TRIP<br />

feline tried to eat a plastic bag I had no option, much to the<br />

cats disgust, but to tie him up using a surfboard leash. Let’s<br />

just say the cat took it well, figured out how to get out, then<br />

promptly helped himself to some avocado.<br />

The trip finally came to an end with a five hour delay at the<br />

airport, followed by a flight that I have already done my best to<br />

forget. Yet even now, as I think of Chile, I smile a deep inward<br />

smile. The cold, long drives and longer flights are weighed up<br />

in my mind against the countless ‘backhand-reo to cut-back’<br />

combinations, the six-wave sets with only three guys out, the<br />

power of the waves and the sheer excitement that is surfing<br />

Chile!<br />

We barely scratched the surface of this country and were only<br />

there long enough to sample a small portion of what must be<br />

on offer along the rest of the coastline. It seems at every turn<br />

off to the coast there is another wave worth surfing. Sure the<br />

cold might put a few people off, but I think that’s a good thing.<br />

If all you want from your surfing is a tropical paradise, with<br />

someone serving you drinks, there are plenty of great options.<br />

But if you’re keen to rubber up and be a little chilly for the<br />

privilege of surfing some of the most perfect waves you can<br />

imagine, you like the idea of spending your evenings cooking<br />

up a storm with your mates, you enjoy a room with a fireplace<br />

to play a few rounds of cards and are excited by the idea of<br />

an early start to hit up another perfect point break.... Then this<br />

place might just be for you.<br />

392 Harbour Drive, The Jetty Strip, Coffs Harbour NSW<br />

Phone: 02 6658 0223 www.thelogshack.com.au<br />

waspbags.com.au<br />

Some things just<br />

shouldn’t get wet.<br />

WASP Bags are completely water<br />

and sand proof. Noticed how if<br />

you get the tiniest bit of sand<br />

or water in your phone, iPod<br />

or camera they are never quite<br />

the same again? Thanks to their<br />

unique seal, WASP Bags ensure<br />

that the things that should stay<br />

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Buy online or ask your friendly surf shop...<br />

76 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

SALTMOTION<br />

TRAVEL<br />

If you have the travel bug and are after an experience off the<br />

beaten track, contact Joel and Sherrie at Saltmotion in Manly<br />

to find out more about their travel booking service.<br />

There are some unique opportunities available to travel to some<br />

of the lesser known surf destinations around the globe, so if<br />

you fancy yourself as an adventurer, get in touch.<br />

And of course, if you end up on a trip with Joel, you know you’ll<br />

have the opportunity to get some stunnng photos to show off to<br />

the friends and family.<br />

You can find out more about the Saltmotion Travel offers online<br />

at www.saltmotion.com, where you can also view amazing<br />

galleries of some of the trips so far. Images are available to<br />

purchase as prints in a variety high-quality formats.<br />

In fact, when you’re there, make sure to sign up for the<br />

Saltmotion email newsletter to get a dose of perfect waves<br />

and incredible photography delivered to your inbox daily.<br />

www.saltmotion.com


sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

77


Byrobn Bbaya<br />

vLocal bknowloedge<br />

Hands down, one of our personal favourite<br />

stops is the never-sleepy town of Byron Bay<br />

on the New South Wales North Coast. It has<br />

a weird, magnetic quality to it... Every time<br />

you go there it gets a little harder to leave.<br />

Not only is it a place of magical waves,<br />

eternal good times and sunshine, it’s steeped<br />

in surf history and home to some of surfing<br />

and surfboard manufacturing’s true legends.<br />

But a place like Byron Bay doesn’t need any<br />

introduction from the likes of us blow-ins.<br />

We’ll let it’s own people speak for it instead.<br />

Local knowledge, after all, is a powerful<br />

thing. Let’s go get some...<br />

78 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


Photo: Alex Frings<br />

www.alexfrings.com<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

79


The Pass - perfect waves for everyone<br />

Photo: Trent Dooley puredrift.com<br />

The yq laycof<br />

vthe land<br />

INTRODUCTION BY ED SINNOTT,<br />

BYRON BAY SURFBOARD MANUFACTURER<br />

vLocal bknowloedge<br />

Welcome to the real world, Byron<br />

Bay, the Vortex...<br />

It’s early, with the ocean mist<br />

still on the streets. Last night’s<br />

hang-overs are wearing black<br />

shades, gargling strong coffee<br />

and wondering where the hell<br />

they’ve been. Weekend daytrippers<br />

from the Goldy are out<br />

hunting breakfast, knowing exactly<br />

what they don’t need, while Paris<br />

Hilton wannabes are still in bed<br />

getting their beauty sleep. Parkies<br />

stand waiting for a free feed at<br />

the community centre while mad<br />

surfers roll out of damp garages,<br />

Wicked vans, rented rooms and<br />

one night stand crash pads in<br />

Suffolk, Sunrise, Broken, the Byron<br />

Hills and anywhere else they<br />

happened to find a bed.<br />

Soon everyone is out on pushbikes,<br />

motorcycles, skateboards, in vans,<br />

and anything else they can get<br />

their hands on. They're heading<br />

for the water. Cars with boards<br />

stacked up high tear around the<br />

Cape in all directions. What’s firing<br />

today? The Pass, Lennox, Broken,<br />

Tallows or the Wreck? It's a full<br />

bore surf city here and it hardly<br />

ever stops. Ever. Today there's a six<br />

foot groundswell running straight<br />

from the east and it’s offshore.<br />

Byron Bay is a blazing melting<br />

pot containing extreme polarities<br />

from all walks of life that include<br />

new-age hippies, homeless<br />

environmentalists, yuppie artists,<br />

people in between writing books,<br />

day trippers, Lindsey Lohan<br />

mimics, Derek Hynd sometimes,<br />

the hair-permed-forward-stovepipe-no-belt<br />

brigade, blow-in<br />

locals, armies of backpacking<br />

hedonists, feral gypsy guitarists,<br />

surfers, whale watchers, festival<br />

lovers, the Top Shop squirrel set<br />

and locals who wish life would go<br />

back to the good old days. Well<br />

guess what? It never will.<br />

Byron Bay never actually had<br />

a gold rush but you might be<br />

forgiven for thinking that it did,<br />

with so many visitors arriving<br />

to this seething cauldron of the<br />

counterculture. But the gold was,<br />

in fact, a combination of classic<br />

surf, sunshine, new age modalities<br />

and an undeniable sense of<br />

freedom - alluringly real, yet at<br />

the same time a deceptive mirage.<br />

Byron is a place of transience, a<br />

fading chimera and yet a concrete<br />

reality for those that live within<br />

its frontiers. It’s the Wild West,<br />

Hawaii, Bali, a million myths and<br />

a golden sunset viewed through a<br />

cocktail called Happy Holidays. It’s<br />

whatever you want it to be and it’s<br />

everything to everybody.<br />

The selling of Byron Bay's seething<br />

underbelly to the world as a<br />

paradise of blue skies, endless<br />

waves and total personal freedom<br />

was helped by cultural signposts<br />

along the way such as Albert<br />

Falzon’s seminal surf film Morning<br />

of the Earth (1971) and The<br />

Aquarius Festival (1973) held in<br />

Nimbin about 25 kilometres from<br />

Byron Bay. Falzon’s film depicted<br />

images of Nat Young, Chris Brock<br />

and friends ripping Broken Head<br />

Photo: Trent Dooley puredrift.com<br />

Byron Bay Lighthouse<br />

80 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


ay<br />

"Byron Bay is a blazing melting<br />

pot containing extreme polarities<br />

from all walks of life"<br />

Ed Sinnott<br />

RIGHT: Ed Sinnott is the shaper behind<br />

ESP Surfboards. For more on Ed and other<br />

local surfboard manufacturing talent, see<br />

the shapers special starting on Page 104.<br />

apart while living the dream down<br />

on the farm, bathed in an idyllic<br />

golden light, saturated with an<br />

upbeat soundtrack. Morning of<br />

the Earth was the first surf movie<br />

to join the gossamers of the hippy<br />

counterculture, individualism and<br />

the short board revolution together.<br />

Surfing became a form of creative<br />

self-expression and a pursuit that<br />

captured the spirit of the hippy<br />

lifestyle. People really identified<br />

with these images and the sense<br />

of freedom they portrayed.<br />

Byron Bay was forever stamped<br />

within the counterculture as a<br />

place synonymous with personal<br />

freedom, the alternative lifestyle<br />

and the search for individuality. It’s<br />

just unfortunate that today it’s a<br />

damn hard place to survive.<br />

The Aquarius Festival did much<br />

the same thing. It was a bit like a<br />

North Coast Woodstock. Students<br />

and hippies flocked to the area for<br />

the festival in 1973 and many just<br />

never left. Two decades of new<br />

settlers and alternative lifestylers<br />

began to repopulate the area and<br />

another set of pioneers established<br />

themselves around Mullumbimby<br />

and Mainarm.<br />

The commune, legally known as a<br />

multiple occupancy or 'MO', was<br />

conceived. The idea that you could<br />

drop out of mainstream culture and<br />

live an alternative lifestyle was<br />

born. This challenged Australia’s<br />

rational and neo-conservative<br />

power structures who labelled<br />

hippies and surfers together as<br />

‘’dole bludgers’’ and ‘’druggies’’.<br />

The evolution of Byron is well<br />

documented, so these days the<br />

tourist dollar drives the economy.<br />

The propaganda and mythology<br />

that surround the town still attracts<br />

visitors here with disposable<br />

incomes and dollars to burn. But<br />

while the visiting crowds also bring<br />

their own share of issues to the<br />

local community, you can still find<br />

the old, unique Byron if you look<br />

hard enough. You can experience<br />

that peace and solitude of the early<br />

days if you truly explore the area.<br />

The locals love winter when the<br />

big Southerly swells pump and<br />

it's quieter. You can surf a lot of<br />

uncrowded breaks at this time of<br />

year, but when the points fire up it's<br />

still very hectic. There is amazing<br />

natural beauty in the shire and<br />

the type of freedom that you find<br />

depends on where you look.<br />

There are many hidden gems here,<br />

rough-hewn diamonds that await<br />

discovery. If it’s gold you’re after<br />

you won’t find it out at the Pass, in<br />

a pub or by rubbing the red out of<br />

your eyes after an all-night bender.<br />

You'll find it in the hidden natural<br />

world out on a deserted beach<br />

where the life-force of the ocean<br />

and the land powers our connection<br />

to everything.<br />

While the rest might be the same<br />

old circus with different clowns, if<br />

you survive the mirage you might<br />

find your own personal truth.<br />

Jonson Street<br />

Main Beach car park<br />

The Tallows local crew<br />

Photo: Trent Dooley puredrift.com<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

81


Byron Bay is one of those<br />

places blessed with that all<br />

important ingredient for surf<br />

- choice. With beaches and<br />

point breaks at all different<br />

angles and aspects, you’re<br />

hard pressed not to find<br />

something surfable on any<br />

Byron Bay roadtrip.<br />

As always, we reckon local<br />

knowledge is the way to go,<br />

so we asked photographer<br />

Trent Dooley of puredrift.com<br />

to let us in on what Byron’s<br />

breaks have to offer...<br />

Belongil Beach<br />

A quiet alternative,<br />

suitable for all levels<br />

of surfers, is Belongil<br />

Beach, about a km north<br />

of the Wreck, which<br />

can produce some good<br />

beach breaks on most<br />

swells in S-SW wind.<br />

The Wreck<br />

Aptly named after the<br />

sunken shipwreck SS<br />

Wollongbar, The Wreck<br />

sits just to the left of<br />

Main Beach car park.<br />

It turns on some very<br />

hollow and punchy<br />

waves thanks to the<br />

constant build up of<br />

sand caught up around<br />

the wreck itself. Due<br />

to its consistency and<br />

its proximity to town,<br />

it’s generally busy and<br />

works best in a solid<br />

E/SE swell and S-SW<br />

winds.<br />

Main Beach<br />

Smack bang in the<br />

centre of town, Main<br />

Beach provides an<br />

eclectic mix of people<br />

from all over the world<br />

basking in Byron’s<br />

sunshine and idealic<br />

beaches. In other words<br />

it’s packed with tourists,<br />

swimming, sun-baking,<br />

bodysurfing, snorkelling,<br />

learning and the like.<br />

However, when there is<br />

enough swell wrapping<br />

into the Bay, Main<br />

Beach can also serve up<br />

some very hollow waves<br />

which will leave the<br />

inexperienced admiring<br />

from shore.<br />

Clarkes Beach<br />

When The Pass is firing,<br />

Clarkes Beach can offer<br />

a less critical alternative<br />

away from the crowds.<br />

It turns on some fun<br />

waves often with only a<br />

fraction of the surfers.<br />

Tucked right into the<br />

bay, it also offers the<br />

protection from all wind<br />

directions except the<br />

northerly. When small,<br />

Clarkes can provide<br />

gentle little peelers that<br />

are great for logs and<br />

learning.<br />

Byrobn<br />

Bbreaks<br />

Photographer Trent Dooley<br />

One part photos, one part<br />

accommodation and all Byron Bay,<br />

puredrift is run by couple Trent<br />

and Laura Dooley who moved to<br />

Byron Bay just over a year ago from<br />

Sydney’s Northern Beaches.<br />

“My wife Laura and I have always<br />

wanted to work together creatively,”<br />

Trent says. “And puredrift has given<br />

us the opportunity to share our love<br />

of Byron’s beautiful environment and<br />

contribute to its vibrant community.”<br />

On the website, you can book a stay,<br />

and also check out daily photos and<br />

local surf conditions.<br />

Make sure to sign up for the email<br />

list to have magical Byron Bay<br />

scenery appear in your inbox.<br />

Visit puredrift.com and join in on<br />

www.facebook.com/puredrift<br />

Wategos:<br />

"Ditch the short board<br />

here, get out the log and<br />

cruise down Australia’s<br />

most easterly point. "<br />

What a way to spend a summer’s day.<br />

Photo: Trent Dooley puredrift.com<br />

82 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


The Pass<br />

Byron’s premiere wave<br />

with crowds to match.<br />

A sand bottom point<br />

break that can dish up<br />

super-sucky mechanical<br />

barrels through to long<br />

logger lines that peel<br />

endlessly down the Bay,<br />

all depending on sand<br />

build up. When working,<br />

it’s an amazing sight<br />

with waves running<br />

well over 300m. Crowd<br />

levels can be dangerous<br />

here and it’s no place for<br />

the inexperienced. The<br />

viewing platform directly<br />

above the wave provides<br />

a great vantage point.<br />

Best in SE swell and<br />

south wind.<br />

Wategos<br />

This would have to<br />

be one of the most<br />

picturesque beaches<br />

in Australia, with realestate<br />

prices to match.<br />

Ditch the short board<br />

here, get out the log and<br />

cruise down Australia’s<br />

most easterly point.<br />

On a good day you can<br />

get rides in excess of<br />

a couple of hundred<br />

metres, which you will<br />

often have to share<br />

with a pod of dolphins.<br />

Offshore in a southerly is<br />

the way to go.<br />

Tallows<br />

If you love surfing<br />

punchy beach breaks<br />

in crystal clear warm<br />

water, Tallow Beach or<br />

‘Tallows’ is your summer<br />

break. Surfing just below<br />

the iconic Cape Byron<br />

lighthouse at ‘Cosy<br />

Corner’ will also provide<br />

you with protection from<br />

the dreaded summer<br />

northerlies. While this<br />

spot can get pretty busy<br />

during the peak holiday<br />

periods, you often only<br />

have to walk a couple<br />

hundred metres down the<br />

beach and you’re surfing<br />

peaks all to yourself.<br />

Suffolk Park<br />

Keep strolling down<br />

the beach for 5 clicks<br />

or so and you’ll be at<br />

the beachside town of<br />

Suffolk Park. This stretch<br />

of beach picks up swells<br />

from all angles and is<br />

rarely flat.<br />

It’s offshore from NW to<br />

SW and you can often<br />

score great waves all to<br />

yourself when conditions<br />

are right.<br />

Broken Head<br />

The furthest point south<br />

on this long stretch of<br />

coast is Broken Head,<br />

a right hand sand<br />

bottom point break that<br />

lines up beautifully<br />

when the sand is<br />

pushed up towards<br />

the headland. Rides in<br />

excess of a couple of<br />

hundred metres are not<br />

uncommon when it’s on.<br />

Best in a solid SE swell<br />

and offshore in a SW<br />

wind.<br />

vLocal bknowloedge<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

83


“Get a seat in the sun out the front of<br />

Utopia...I love people watching.<br />

I'm a bit of an Esme Watson... I like<br />

to see what's goin' on...”<br />

Bert - Maddog Beach Surf Centre<br />

“Go to the lighthouse,<br />

take a couple of beers<br />

up and do a bit of<br />

whalewatching! You<br />

actually feel like you're<br />

in Byron Bay then.”<br />

Alana - Surfkini<br />

“Go to the lighthouse. In whale season you<br />

just get the full magic of the place, with<br />

whales and dolphins jumping around.<br />

You just don’t want to leave really…”<br />

Ofer - Cane Bar<br />

““Byron is about<br />

community. It’s eclectic.<br />

There’s so many different<br />

things going on. It’s<br />

just a sea of good stuff,<br />

good culture and good<br />

visitors as well... So many<br />

interesting people come<br />

to the area, but it always<br />

comes back to the local<br />

community.”<br />

"Targa or Top Shop<br />

for coffee. Beer? The<br />

Beachie, favourite haunt.”<br />

Lacho - Common Ground<br />

53 years here, born<br />

and bred. Everything<br />

appeals. The surf,<br />

the climate... you just<br />

don’t want to leave.<br />

Everywhere else you<br />

see when you travel<br />

you compare and<br />

realise you just can’t<br />

beat this place. It’s<br />

pretty special.”<br />

Sput-<br />

Surf Central<br />

“It’s an awesome town with a good live music<br />

scene – just go the Rails or the Northern at night.”<br />

Jono and Meagan - Legend pizza<br />

“It doesn't matter if you;re obsessed<br />

with the WCT, want to ride traditional<br />

old logs, whether you just want to go<br />

into town and get p*ssed, whether you<br />

want to sit in a teepee up on the hill...<br />

Every sort of freak around is in this<br />

town and they all seem to harmonise<br />

together.... And that's a brilliant thing."<br />

Adam - Doctor Ding<br />

Byrobn Bbaya<br />

vLocal b<br />

knowloedge


oMeetqthe<br />

Nativeso<br />

“Byron is a mix of everything….<br />

a mix of culture, skate, the surf,<br />

the people, music, the good<br />

vibrations, good feelings... It’s<br />

just magic.<br />

Favourite spot? Main Beach<br />

car park for sure. It's where<br />

all this mixes. You have the<br />

carpark for a skate, you have<br />

the rocks, every sunset there’s<br />

music with the drums. You have<br />

the ocean…You hear the ocean<br />

whenever you skate here. It’s<br />

the best spot. Not just in Byron."<br />

" The street is the best spot.<br />

I used to firedance and do<br />

fire-twirling with my friends,<br />

someone would come along<br />

with a guitar and another<br />

singing. The life here is not in<br />

a nightclub, like in every other<br />

place. Life here is in the street.<br />

Natalia Lopez - Skater<br />

"Byron Bay local" is a relatively loose<br />

term. While there are plenty long term<br />

born-and-bred residents, a large portion<br />

of Byron's population is essentially<br />

transient. With backpackers from every<br />

corner of the globe doing odd-jobs to<br />

extend their stay, beach-changers from<br />

the north and south looking to escape the<br />

hustle and bustle of big cities and artists<br />

of every discipline clambering to make<br />

Byron a place to permanently rest their<br />

heads, it's an eclectic mix that makes up<br />

the people that call this place home.<br />

Long-term resident or not, there's never<br />

anyone better as a tour guide than a<br />

local. We asked some of them to share<br />

a few inside tips and fill us in on what<br />

makes Byron Bay so special for them.<br />

"It’s always<br />

changing. It’s<br />

always the same.<br />

If you have never<br />

been to Byron you<br />

need to check out<br />

the Lighthouse,<br />

have a beer at the<br />

top pub (Beach<br />

Hotel), a dive at<br />

Julian Rocks and<br />

of course, a surf.<br />

Other than that it is<br />

a good place to do<br />

nothing."<br />

Josh - Ho’ Okupu<br />

“Come and have a beer. (laughs)<br />

Go to the beach during the day,<br />

visit the unique little shops, have<br />

a coffee, take life easy and that’s<br />

what Byron;s all about. Get out of<br />

the city and into the small town.”<br />

Loren - Woody’s Surf Shack<br />

“The various elements<br />

here combine to conjure<br />

up the old soul of surf<br />

culture. There's a good<br />

mix of surfing and live<br />

music. I play guitar and<br />

jam with a few guys<br />

and that coincides with<br />

the atmosphere around<br />

here. Surf wise you can<br />

ride a whole host of<br />

boards from longboards<br />

to shortboards, retro<br />

twins, dad's (Mark<br />

Rabbidge) finless stuff."<br />

Mick Rabbidge - Surfer


Celebrating<br />

4<br />

years<br />

Still proudly<br />

made by people,<br />

not machines<br />

86 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

02 6685 7485<br />

10 Acacia St,<br />

Byron Bay NSW<br />

www.tcsurf.com.au


Photo: Alex Frings www.alexfrings.com<br />

vLocal bpeople<br />

“Yeah ’95… That’s when<br />

I moved up from Tassie.<br />

What’s that now? 16<br />

years? I think that’s local<br />

status. I think that takes<br />

ten. I was always copping<br />

it until then...“<br />

Known for his surfing, but now even<br />

more so for his filmmaking, Johnny<br />

Abegg epitomises the spirit of Byron<br />

Bay. If you don't see him in the surf,<br />

he'll be keeping himself busy in the<br />

community, covering events and<br />

photographing people and places for<br />

the website and email newsletter<br />

Common Ground.<br />

With a huge project - his introspective<br />

surf-unrelated movie Two Weeks -<br />

just behind him, we caught up with<br />

him to find out more about his life<br />

and his connection to the New South<br />

Wales north coast.<br />

A mad keen young surfer with big<br />

dreams of the pro circuit, Johnny<br />

arrived in Byron Bay in his teens,<br />

thanks to extremely supportive<br />

parents packing up the family home<br />

in Dodges Ferry - a little town East<br />

of Hobart on the way to Port Arthur<br />

- to relocate to warmer climes and<br />

friendlier waves.<br />

After a brief stop in Yamba, the<br />

family settled in Byron Bay.<br />

“It just resonated. It was such a<br />

happening little place. Even back<br />

then, it was just so different to any<br />

other places.”<br />

“Things have changed, but it still has<br />

the same appeal. I just love it for all<br />

the same reasons.”<br />

Firmly on the path of being a pro surfer,<br />

Johnny one day picked up a camera and<br />

it changed his life for good.<br />

“It opened up a lot of my creative<br />

spirit. From 2006 or so I still had<br />

the bug to compete... maybe it was<br />

more about me letting go. I was still<br />

competing but gradually I just got<br />

more into film. That was the new<br />

path and I was surfing for different<br />

reasons then.”<br />

He went on to document a different<br />

side of the circuit in his film On<br />

Credit, dealing with the costs of<br />

being a competitor on the pro tour.<br />

“It’s obscene. Just booking a ticket<br />

say to Europe to go travelling, you<br />

can pretty much double that. There’s<br />

membership fees and entry fees. It’s<br />

just ridiculous. I’m still paying for<br />

those original years now. I’ve got it<br />

down pretty good (laughs) but I just<br />

want to get back to zero.”<br />

“I have toyed with the idea [of a<br />

follow-up] but it’s not really hitting<br />

me at the moment.. I’m thinking it<br />

might be a short film. I don’t think it<br />

has the legs for a full one. Like a 10<br />

minute ‘this is what happened’.”<br />

But, work even closer to Johnny's<br />

heart is his most recent film, Two<br />

Weeks - a very personal journey of<br />

self-discovery in the wilderness of<br />

Tasmania.<br />

“It’s a pretty bold attempt for me I<br />

suppose. It wasn't surf based. It’s<br />

quite dark and from a dark place in<br />

my life. I was asking myself some<br />

heavy questions. Just questioning<br />

life and everything around me. I<br />

thought it would make interesting<br />

subject matter to start documenting.<br />

"It was such a hard slog<br />

in hindsight. A really<br />

difficult couple of years<br />

but also really rewarding.<br />

I’m glad I exposed that<br />

part of myself."<br />

"A lot of people have told me that<br />

they’ve been able to see themselves<br />

through it - which has been the<br />

number one bit of feedback. I was<br />

just a vehicle for them to see things<br />

about themselves in it. It was a<br />

really rewarding process, but I’m<br />

quite glad that it's over and I’ve<br />

moved into a new phase. “<br />

That new phase most definitely<br />

includes film work in some shape<br />

or form.<br />

“It’s just in me. I just see life in that<br />

way. I’m quite intrigued by short<br />

form and digital media… The way<br />

you can create a story and see it go<br />

out through the cyber cosmos and<br />

reach a lot of people.”<br />

qexpressionoq<br />

oVehicles of<br />

It’s not a heavily commercial approach,<br />

doing film for the net?<br />

“No, but it's funny... Neither is the<br />

old way. It’s so dead. DVD sales have<br />

fallen 90%.<br />

So, where is it all going?<br />

“I’m just starting to look at that<br />

landscape as more of a creative<br />

outlet. Going down the independent<br />

film route, I was destined to make a<br />

few dollars off it, but that tainted the<br />

process and turned it into something<br />

that could be a little bit ugly at<br />

times. Initially I just had something<br />

to share."<br />

For more on Johnny's work, visit his<br />

blog at Johnnyabegg.com<br />

Inside info...<br />

As to Byron Bay, we asked some<br />

personal recommendations of how to<br />

truly experience the place.<br />

“Markets is one. It’s such a good<br />

little way to get in on what’s<br />

happening in the community. People<br />

pop out of the hills and set up their<br />

market stalls. It's great.<br />

“Surf-wise, there’s always a wave.<br />

That’s the great thing about that<br />

headland, you can always go to the<br />

other side and get a wave depending<br />

on the wind and the swell."<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

87


What better way to celebrate the surfing culture of Byron than with a surf festival? Well, hold onto your boardies...<br />

This October, the town hosts the first ever Byron Bay Surf Festival, focused not on competition, but rather on creativity.<br />

"It's a manifestation of the passion for surfing in different creative ways," says organiser Vanessa Thompson.<br />

With live music, filmmaking, original art, photography, shaping workshops and demonstrations as well as the opportunity to<br />

ride and experience surfboards of all descriptions, there really are plenty of creative ways to enjoy the fantastic get-together.<br />

In fact, with so many great events planned you'll be hard pressed to get any rest over the weekend of October 21-23.<br />

It all kicks off with resident surf legend Bob McTavish opening the festivities with a talk and live surfboard shaping<br />

demonstration - the perfect intro into the surfing celebration. Here's a few of the events to follow...<br />

FROM TOP: Live music at Woodys<br />

Surf Shack; Surf swap meet; Muso Dan<br />

Hannaford; and art by James McMillan<br />

Surf Swap Meet<br />

Collectors and fans of older boards will<br />

be in heaven with a Surf Swap meet at<br />

Wategos Beach on the Sunday morning,<br />

hosted by Byron Bay Malibu Club.<br />

You'll be able to browse, buy, swap... even<br />

take the boards out for spin at Wategos.<br />

Short of a $5 per board fee, you could<br />

essentially swap your way into a whole<br />

new quiver for no money at all.<br />

Whether you're after boards or not, the<br />

swap meet is a great opportunity for<br />

surfers, shapers and collectors to meet,<br />

have a chat and exchange ideas. There's a<br />

few big shaping names expected to make<br />

an appearance at the event as well, so<br />

make sure you get along.<br />

Freestyle & Stoke<br />

While the Swap Meet's in full swing,<br />

you have a second opportunity to hit the<br />

waves at Wategos, with four half-hour<br />

expression sessions - Log, Fish, Finless,<br />

and Vintage.<br />

"Whoever's quick enough to put their hand<br />

up gets to go out and have some fun,"<br />

says James McMillan, another one of the<br />

good people behind the festival. With only<br />

ten spots per category and the opportunity<br />

to surf alongside local legends like Danny<br />

Wills, you best be quick, or you can just<br />

sit back and enjoy a great display of<br />

surfboard riding for no scores whatsoever.<br />

vCelebrate<br />

scurfing,<br />

Byrono-stylec<br />

v...at the first<br />

Byrono Bay Surf Festival.<br />

Visual treats<br />

James is also involved in the arts side<br />

of the festival as an exhibiting artist in<br />

the Surf Culture Now exhibition, opening<br />

the Friday evening at the Retrospect<br />

Gallery in Jonson Street. Work on<br />

display will include his own and that of<br />

Mark Sutherland, Hanai Yusuke, Luke<br />

Taafe, Mick Waters, Alby Falzon, Andrew<br />

Kidman, Vanessa Janss and more.<br />

He's also in charge of the stART me up<br />

art exhibition and mentoring program<br />

for kids. This is a great opportunity for<br />

emerging young artists - as young as four<br />

- to see their work hanging on the wall of<br />

a real gallery. There's prizes in each age<br />

category from 4-16 years with the winner<br />

of the 13-16yrs group scoring a 6-month<br />

artist mentorship program to develop their<br />

talent.<br />

Sounds good to us<br />

What's a surf weekend without a<br />

soundtrack? There's no shortage of live<br />

music on offer at this festival. On Saturday<br />

morning you can enjoy an exhibition of<br />

surf photography by local legend George<br />

Greenough, Matty Yates, James McMillan<br />

with live music by Josh Hamilton at the<br />

Top Shop on the corner of Carlyle and<br />

Massinger Streets.<br />

The Byron Bay Community Centre Theatre<br />

will be the place to be Saturday evening,<br />

for the musical/visual collaboration by<br />

Andrew Kidman and one of our favourite<br />

filmmakers, Mick Waters. Andrew Kidman<br />

and the Windy Hills will perform material<br />

from the latest release Songs From The<br />

Ether set to a backdrop of new visual<br />

material by Andrew and Mick.<br />

For a perfect end to the Saturday night,<br />

make sure to head off to one of our<br />

personal favourite night spots, Woodys<br />

Surf Shack in the Plaza, Jonson Street to<br />

enjoy the psychadelic roots of homegrown<br />

band, The Grains. The perfect intimate<br />

venue for a show, the Saturday night<br />

should be a winner.<br />

Currumbin roots muso Dan Hannaford<br />

rounds off the weekend during the Sunday<br />

closing ceremony at the Pass Cafe.<br />

Wood workshop<br />

4pm, Saturday at the Byron Community<br />

Centre sees Lennox Head wooden board<br />

maker Andrew Wells of Grown Surfboards<br />

sharing his knowledge and skills. He'll be<br />

discussing the philosophy behind timber<br />

boards, talking about various aspects of<br />

wooden board construction and will be<br />

answering what you'd like to know in a<br />

Q&A session. As personal fans of Andrew's<br />

work, we highly recommend this to anyone<br />

who has an interest in timber surfcraft.<br />

Need more?<br />

Seriously? If that's not enough for you,<br />

there are surf markets, surf-related clinics<br />

and displays, a surf history talk and if the<br />

weather gods of Byron are as generous as<br />

usual, a whole lot of sunshine and fun.<br />

For the cherry on top, most of the events<br />

are free, just like surfing is (and a little<br />

magazine we know.) Visit the website for<br />

the full program and updates.<br />

www.byronbaysurffestival.com<br />

We'll leave the last word to the good folks<br />

that have pulled it all together:<br />

‘The simple motivation behind The Byron<br />

Bay Surf Festival is to have a killer<br />

weekend in Byron Bay immersed in surf<br />

culture as we know it right now.’"<br />

Bring it on. We can't wait!<br />

Laura Dooley at Wategos, the place to be for<br />

the Surf Swap Meet and expression sessions.<br />

Photo: Trent Dooley puredrift.com<br />

88 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


Geoff at The Pass<br />

6’ 0”All Round Nugget Single fin<br />

(Photo by Michelle Strain)<br />

Design Through Development<br />

All McCoy surfboards are produced through Australia’s No.1 glassing factory PSM where only the finest quality is<br />

produced. We use Graham King foam (the best) exclusively. McCoy is now only available direct from the PSM factory/<br />

showroom where we have over 50 stock boards on display for immediate sale. For custom orders, contact Geoff directly.<br />

Alistair McDiarmid at Lennox<br />

6’ 5” Semi Gun Single fin<br />

(Photo by Michelle Strain)<br />

Now custom building a Geoff McCoy designed retro range in wood and<br />

fibreglass construction. “These are very special, as they represent my older<br />

concepts that, when combined with wood, are strikingly impressive.”<br />

For more information, contact Geoff directly.<br />

www.mccoysurfboards.com<br />

Showroom at 10 Acacia Street Byron Bay NSW 2481 Australia<br />

Personally contact Geoff on 02 6685 3227 or mccoy@nor.com.au<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

89


GUY HASTINGS ✯ SURFARI MAPS<br />

Based in Byron Bay<br />

since 1982<br />

Byrobn Bbaya<br />

Pictorial map making,<br />

painting and illustration.<br />

✯ 0422 175 706<br />

www.surfarimaps.com<br />

DOCTOR<br />

D ING<br />

BYRON BAY<br />

dr. ding surfboard repairs<br />

24 hr turnaround & pickup services available<br />

2/68 Centennial Circuit, Byron Bay Arts & Industry Estate<br />

www.drdingsurfboardrepairs.com 0431 740 940<br />

vLife b<br />

changes<br />

A great photo is the end product of a combination<br />

of different ingredients. Technical expertise,<br />

artistic vision, a good eye, good gear, great light,<br />

amazing subject matter...<br />

In whatever proportions these ingedients are<br />

mixed, one thing’s for sure... Byron Bay delivers<br />

the amazing subject matter in spades - beautfiul<br />

scenery, beautiful people and every colour of the<br />

rainbow, from sunup to sundown and beyond.<br />

The town is most certainly a photographer’s dream<br />

destination, so it’s no wonder German traveller<br />

Alex Frings has come to feel such a connection<br />

to this place that feeds his passion with a daily<br />

serve of so many amazing moments, just waiting<br />

to be captured.<br />

We got to have a chat with him over a coffee about<br />

Byron Bay, photos and surfing.<br />

WORDS: MARK CHAPMAN PHOTOS: ALEX FRINGS<br />

Hailey-Marie McFadden duck diving a<br />

glass cylinder near Byron Bay.<br />

90 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong> happy birthday to us


vLocal btalent<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

91


Byrobn Bbaya<br />

TOP: Sunset ABOVE: Hailey-Marie McFadden waiting for a wave. RIGHT:<br />

Hailstorm, 2008 that caused major damage at Suffolk Park and Lennox Head.<br />

92 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong> happy birthday to us


From Aachen in Germany, near the Dutch and Belgian<br />

border, photographer Alex Frings first visited, and fell<br />

in love with Byron Bay in 2006.<br />

Web developer by trade, Alex’s passion however, lies<br />

firmly with photography.<br />

“Since I first travelled to Australia, I got more serious<br />

about it and started taking a lot more photos than<br />

I used to back in Germany. I obviously got into surf<br />

photography, but being in Byron, you can’t really avoid<br />

that.” (laughs)<br />

“I’d love to take some more time from programming<br />

websites and spend a bit more on photography,”<br />

he says. “It’s a lot more fun being out there in the<br />

elements.”<br />

Being techy does wonders for his online presence<br />

though - a very cool mix of personal and portfolio on<br />

his website.<br />

“I tried to do something a little different. It’s not about<br />

sales or anything. It’s more of a lifestream where<br />

everything runs together... my posts and photos and so<br />

on. Everything appears chronologically.”<br />

Gear-wise, Alex is pretty clear about his preferences.<br />

“I’m a Canon guy. I like Canon and I’ll stick to it. At<br />

the moment I’m shooting with a Canon 1d Mk3, one<br />

of my favourite lenses is the 70-200mm 2.8. In the<br />

water I usually shoot the 16-35.”<br />

We’re always fascinated by the levels of fitness<br />

required in doing water photography, but Alex is<br />

pretty chilled about his regime...<br />

“Well, I like to eat chocolate, and a lot of it. (laughs)<br />

No, I’m not that fit, but I’m always super-keen. I go<br />

in the water whenever I can, no matter how big it is.<br />

MICHAEL CUNDITH<br />

SURF DESIGNS<br />

NEW MODEL<br />

“The MC/Greenough<br />

Stubbie is a Concave<br />

Triplane Hull with many<br />

different fin options.<br />

This board thrives in all<br />

conditions.” MC<br />

The MC<br />

Quiver<br />

Danny Wills Rippa 5’10” x 19 ¼” x 2 ¼”<br />

MC/Greenough<br />

Stubbie 6’0” x 22” x 3”<br />

Dart Fish 6’2” x 21 ¾” x 3 ¾”<br />

Sometimes I get smashed and I don’t even make it out<br />

and other times it works out and I get the shot.<br />

“A couple of years back, it was always a struggle<br />

between surfing and taking photos on days when it<br />

was good, but these days I’ll first shoot in the water<br />

and will go for a wave afterwards.”<br />

Time in Byron Bay hasn’t only been good for his<br />

photography, but has kicked his surfing along nicely<br />

too. Having surfed in France and the Netherlands, he<br />

only started seriously hitting the waves in the last five<br />

years since his first visit to Byron Bay.<br />

The rivermouth near Broken Head, and during the<br />

summer at Tallows. I’m a goofy footer so I like my lefts.”<br />

I only ride Town & Country’s and get my boards<br />

shaped by the Buzz. I really like those boards. I have<br />

a 6’1” Flying Fish and the other is a 6’4” for when it<br />

gets a bit bigger.”<br />

As to the future Alex tells us that he’d like to be<br />

offering prints of his images by the end of the year.<br />

“There’s also a Byron Bay documentary coming out<br />

on DVD,” he says. “One of my images will be on the<br />

cover, which will be cool.”<br />

Check out more of Alex’s awesome and inspiring<br />

work throughout this edition’s Byron Bay feature<br />

and on his website at www.alexfrings.com.<br />

CUSTOM ORDERS<br />

ON ANY MODEL<br />

Telephone: 02 66858778<br />

Fax: 02 66808932<br />

Factory Showroom:<br />

3 Banksia Drive<br />

Byron Bay Industrial Estate<br />

BYRON BAY NSW 2481<br />

email: info@mcsurf.com.au<br />

www.mcsurf.com.au<br />

Whale Fish 8’0” x 25 ½” x 3 ½”<br />

The Man Gun 9’1” x 22 ¼” x 3 ¼”<br />

High Performance Mal 9’1” x 22 ¾” x 2 ¾”<br />

Balsa Mal 9’6” x 24” x 3 ¼”<br />

FREIGHT<br />

IT NOW!<br />

We’ll send<br />

boards<br />

anywhere in<br />

Australia for<br />

reasonable rates<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

93


vWinding<br />

down &<br />

Firing upc<br />

legend<br />

PIZZA<br />

BYRON BAY<br />

66 855 700<br />

byo-delivery-take away<br />

Jonson Street, Shop 1<br />

Woolworths Plaza<br />

next to the bottle shop<br />

www.legendpizza.com.au<br />

During the day<br />

Byron’s major drawcard is its stunning<br />

natural beauty. Its what lures intrepid<br />

travellers from all over the globe from<br />

backpackers to the well-heeled. So when<br />

you’re not surfing Byron’s many breaks,<br />

indulging in the fine food or relaxing with a<br />

drink, there’s always more to explore.<br />

Julian Rocks is one of Australia’s top dive<br />

spots and has been an underwater marine<br />

reserve since 1982 and is absolutely<br />

teeming with sea life. Above the surface,<br />

Byron’s various kayak operators provide<br />

you an alternative means to take in the<br />

beauty of the area’s coastal beauty.<br />

The best place to check out the surf, in<br />

particular swell size and direction is at<br />

Australia’s most easterly point, Cape<br />

Byron. Whilst there, a visit to the famous<br />

lighthouse on top of the headland is in<br />

order. You can hike a 3.7km walking trail<br />

that loops around to Wategos Beach and<br />

back, peer over the 100m sheer drop on the<br />

eastern most side of the Cape and take in<br />

some of the region's most majestic views.<br />

For a different perspective on Byron’s<br />

beauty, take an early morning hot air<br />

balloon ride and see the sun rise first<br />

over our most easterly point. Byron Bay<br />

Ballooning runs daily flights complete with<br />

complimentary champagne breakfast.<br />

Aside from all this we suggest you get<br />

out of town! That’s right, and head to<br />

Bangalow, a quaint, Federation-style<br />

village only fifteen minutes from the heart<br />

of Byron. Bangalow is famous for its arts,<br />

craft, sausages, fresh food and produce<br />

and is a favourite of many Byron locals.<br />

ABOVE: The lighthouse... recommended by<br />

locals and visitors alike and an essential box<br />

to check on your trip to Byron.<br />

BELOW: The other side... Byron's nightlife.<br />

Letting loose at Woodys Surf Shack. Supplied<br />

STARTING OUT: What<br />

a great place to learn...<br />

Black Dog Surf School<br />

is one of the operators that<br />

run surf lessons in Byron<br />

94 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


The Bangalow Farmer’s Market runs every Saturday<br />

from 8am to 11am. On the fourth Sunday of each<br />

month are the Bangalow markets incorporating all<br />

the region is famous for.<br />

When the sun goes down...<br />

There are not too many better places to hit the town<br />

in our opinion than Byron. But where to start? There<br />

are so many places to let it all hang out.<br />

We will start with the Beach Hotel. It's a superb<br />

venue. Right across the road from the beach,<br />

there's always something going on, day or night.<br />

There’s a regular schedule of live music along with<br />

pool tables and big screen TVs.<br />

Literally a couple of metres down the road is The<br />

Balcony. A great place for a cosy bite to eat in front<br />

of the open fire in winter or out on the balcony in<br />

summer, it also doubles as the perfect spot for an<br />

afternoon drink in the shade with a cool sea breeze.<br />

Keep walking and there’s the Great Northern, a real<br />

deal Aussie pub that always boasts a fine line-up<br />

of live music such as our mate Isaac Paddon in<br />

their famous ‘Backroom’.<br />

You can't miss out on the Railway Hotel, with it's<br />

chilled, laid-back feel. Most of the pub is outdoors<br />

and is one of those few places where you can<br />

simply catch up with friends and have a good chat<br />

over a drink. After you've chewed each other’s ears<br />

off, you can kick back with some live music, which<br />

is on every night of the week.<br />

A funky venue on the scene worth checking out is<br />

The Owl & Pussycat. Good vibe, interesting tapas<br />

menu and a definite sense of style and class.<br />

Also worth checking out, just a few minutes<br />

walk from the main part of town, is the Byron<br />

Bay Brewery and Buddha Bar/ Restaurant.<br />

Amazingly, in all our visits to Byron we had<br />

never heard of it, or ventured here, and after<br />

several of their premium ales and lagers we<br />

were wondering why the hell not.<br />

On the subject of Byron brews, Stone &<br />

Wood also brew a bloody good beer. Pacific<br />

Ale is set to become a firm favourite.<br />

For a good drop and a party atmosphere at<br />

a recently refurbished venue with a great<br />

surfing theme, you can't go past Woody’s<br />

Surf Shack. If the good vibes and music aren't<br />

enough, there's a Morning of the Earth retro<br />

surfboard up for grabs every Wednesday<br />

night, so it's well worth the visit. And as<br />

a fellow supporter of the Byron Bay Surf<br />

Festival, you have to make sure you stop in<br />

for at least a quick beer. The only problem<br />

with Woody's is that once you're in, it's just<br />

too hard to leave, so you just might find<br />

yourself there until lights-on-go-home time.<br />

Finally, if you're planning on really cutting<br />

loose, you may want to check out Cheeky<br />

Monkeys. The name says it all. It’s a<br />

backpackers haven and gets a little wild.<br />

While we're not backpackers (or in any way<br />

young or good-looking) we do admit to having<br />

ventured here... on several occasions.<br />

So, all up, you're more than spoilt for choice,<br />

with no shortage of options for a big night out.<br />

HANDCRAFTED,<br />

FREE-STANDING,<br />

RECYCLED<br />

TIMBER BOARD<br />

RACKS...<br />

CALL 0413 061 727<br />

WWW.BYRONBAYBOARDRACKS.COM<br />

RIGHT: More of Byron's natural beaurty behind the bar at<br />

Woody's Surf Shack. TOP: More happy Woody's patrons. Supplied<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

95


Photo: Trent Dooley puredrift.com<br />

Byrobn Bbaya<br />

Finding fuel<br />

v...so many choices<br />

for a bite to eat in Byrono<br />

So many establishments serve top-notch food and drinks. The best<br />

recommendation we can make is to sample as many as you can<br />

when here. Seriously. Here’s a quick guide:<br />

Three important Bs for the day...<br />

Breakfast at the Beach Cafe, Beer<br />

at the Brewery, and Bowls of<br />

healthy food from Cane bar.<br />

OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM TOP:<br />

Breakfast at Dip Cafe - it doens't<br />

get much better!<br />

Surfy decor at Legend Pizza<br />

The view from The Balcony,<br />

Earth & Sea's idea of an ideal day<br />

Enjoying a cup of local coffee.<br />

Breakfast.<br />

Like many surfers, my favourite meal of the day.<br />

Best food... Dip Café. Possibly the best breakfast I have had on the entire<br />

east coast, and I have sampled a few.<br />

Best view... and great food (the lines are testament to this) is the Byron Beach<br />

Café. Possibly the best view of any café on the east coast.<br />

Best Breaky on the run... Cane Bar. Meticulous approach to making coffee.<br />

Great smoothies and juices and you have to try the BomBom - a South<br />

American inspired espresso, cane juice concoction. Sounds weird but is<br />

gooood.<br />

Fond Favourites... Utopia (formerly Fresh). Good food, good coffee and fun<br />

place to people watch.<br />

Good all day... The Balcony. It’s serene, above the hustle and bustle of<br />

the street and the food and coffee is just great. For great tapas and a very<br />

civilised, relaxed environment, this is the go.<br />

Lunch<br />

Orgasmic. Give your taste buds one. Delicious, casual, quick and affordable.<br />

Mediterranean/ Middle Eastern inspired cuisine and plenty of vegetarian<br />

dishes.<br />

For quick, super-tasty lunch, Wahoos Fish Tacos are a bit of a Byron Bay icon as<br />

are Pot Belly Pies - while pricey as far as pies go - they're big enough to justify<br />

the price tag.<br />

If Japanese is your thing, O-Sushi is a fantastic, healthy and highly<br />

recommended way to refuel for the afternoon. While we only got to stop in<br />

for lunch, we're keen to get back for dinner - the mains look incredible.<br />

96 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


qDininga&<br />

Takeaways<br />

O-SUSHI<br />

Woolworths Plaza, Jonson St<br />

Award-winning, authentic Japanese<br />

cuisine. Mains, tapas and sushi.<br />

P: 02 6685 7103<br />

www.osushi.com.au<br />

WAHOOS FISH TACO<br />

Shop 8, 4 Jonson St, BYRON BAY<br />

Fish, Chicken and Steak Tacos...<br />

Burgers, burritos, salads & more<br />

P: 02 6680 8001<br />

www.wahoosaustralia.com<br />

THE OWL & PUSSYCAT<br />

85 Jonson Street, BYRON BAY<br />

Tapas Bar & Restaurant with<br />

live jazz, blues and piano bar<br />

P: 02 6685 7320<br />

www.opcbyron.com.au<br />

LEGEND PIZZA<br />

Shop 1 The Plaza, Jonson St<br />

20 years of the freshest and<br />

tastiest pizzas in Byron Bay<br />

P: 02 6685 5700<br />

www.legendpizza.com.au<br />

Dinner<br />

Fine dining... my pick is probably<br />

St Elmos. Great wine list and<br />

interesting seasonal menu.<br />

Quick bite... Fish Mongers.<br />

No visit to Byron is complete<br />

without a visit here. Salt &<br />

pepper calamari on fragrant rice,<br />

again, possibly the best on the<br />

east coast.<br />

Pub grub... The Railway Hotel<br />

- definitely the pick of the pubs<br />

for a bite.<br />

Pizza... Who can go past pizza<br />

for dinner? A long time favourite<br />

is THE original and world<br />

acclaimed Earth’n’Sea Pizza.<br />

Great atmosphere, friendly staff<br />

and of course great pizza on<br />

wholemeal pizza bases.<br />

Legends has been around for 20-<br />

odd years, and when you taste<br />

their pizzas, you'll know why. The<br />

locals talk it up too, and some<br />

cool surf memorabilia adorns<br />

the walls, so there are plenty<br />

reasons to grab a bite there.<br />

And for pizza on the run, give Slice<br />

a try, next to Cane Bar.<br />

EARTH ‘N’ SEA Est.1976<br />

Cnr Fletcher & Byron St, BYRON BAY<br />

Amazing pizzas and pastas. Great<br />

for families, relaxed atmosphere.<br />

P: 02 6685 6029<br />

www.earthnsea.com.au<br />

DIP CAFÉ<br />

1/ 21 Fletcher St, BYRON BAY<br />

First class licensed café and<br />

restaurant. Great coffee,<br />

excellent food and best service<br />

P: 02 6685 5141<br />

CANE BAR<br />

Cavanbah Arcade, 4 Jonson St<br />

Rejuvenating cane based juices, power<br />

smoothies, organic coffee, for uberenergy<br />

to surf all day and play all night.<br />

P: 02 6685 7978<br />

www.canebar.com.au<br />

TARGA<br />

Cnr Marvell and Middelton Sts<br />

Food you know, inherently. Coffee<br />

you wake up wanting, perfectly.<br />

Wines you enjoy, convivially.<br />

P: 02 6680 9960<br />

www.targarestaurant.com<br />

Honestly, it's hard to find a bad<br />

feed, so be adventurous!<br />

THE BALCONY<br />

Cnr Lawson & Jonson, BYRON BAY<br />

Every day breakfast, lunch &<br />

dinner. Tapas till late every night.<br />

P: 02 6680 9666<br />

www.balcony.com.au<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

97


Byron’s Largest<br />

Accommodation<br />

Service<br />

qWhere<br />

to stayu<br />

Over 200 options from budget to luxury.<br />

www.byronbayaccom.net<br />

Call (02) 66 808 666<br />

Open every day for Breakfast, lunch<br />

and Dinner Tapas till late every night.<br />

Fresh local produce.<br />

Mediterranean/Spanish influence with<br />

a great cocktail bar and wine list.<br />

Cnr Lawson & Jonson, Byron Bay<br />

02 6680 9666 www.balcony.com.au<br />

No matter what kind of digs you have in mind, Byron has you covered.<br />

From hotels, apartments, resorts, guesthouses, stunning beach houses<br />

and countless budget accommodation options including cabins, cottages,<br />

backpackers and motels.<br />

With so much choice, here’s a couple of smorgasboarder recommendations.<br />

Backpackers<br />

It’s hard to resist the Backpackers Inn.<br />

Right on the beach near the Wreck. Good<br />

common area complete with kitchen, pool<br />

table, outdoor bbq and sitting/ dining area.<br />

Laid back crew who run the joint.<br />

Budget<br />

When you are a mad keen surfer with a young<br />

family it is hard to beat Holiday Parks. They<br />

always have the best beachfront positions<br />

and they don’t get much better than those at<br />

Clarkes Beach or Suffolk Park.<br />

Clarkes Beach Holiday Park is situated<br />

metres from the sand right next to the world<br />

famous surf break The Pass and alongside the<br />

Byron Beach Cafe. There are powered and<br />

unpowered sites for caravans and tents and a<br />

range of holiday cabins to choose from all set<br />

amongst a tranquil bush setting.<br />

Suffolk Beachfront Holiday Park is also<br />

right on Tallows Beach, home to a slightly<br />

more secluded surf break but no lesser a<br />

wave and adds a whole new dimension to<br />

the holiday park experience with its unique<br />

Safari Tents. It’s like camping but a great deal<br />

more comfortable. So if your wife is like mine<br />

and won’t entertain camping but the kids are<br />

nagging you to ‘sleep in a tent’, this is the<br />

perfect solution.<br />

Beachfront<br />

Apartments<br />

If a beachfront apartment is more your style,<br />

there are a couple of great options only a<br />

couple of hundred metres walk from the heart<br />

of town right on the beach near The Wreck.<br />

The Byron Beachcomber Resort has<br />

studio, one and two bedroom fully equipped<br />

apartments whilst Outrigger Bay Resort has<br />

both two and three bedroom apartments for<br />

those larger families or surfing possess.<br />

Unique<br />

Then there’s a place I actually photographed<br />

as inspiration for designing my own home.<br />

It is the Atlantic Guesthouses. There is a<br />

real touch of class about them. The design,<br />

the décor and the general ambience are<br />

something spectacular, as is the service.<br />

Accommodation ranges from premium or<br />

standard ensuites to spacious doubles or<br />

shared rooms.<br />

Luxurious<br />

For something altogether again there is<br />

Shambhala@Byron right at the end of<br />

Belongil Beach. Only around 1km from town<br />

it feels like you are miles away. Luxurious<br />

treehouses set beneath a rainforest canopy<br />

with magic beach views… think serenity, a<br />

moonlight Bali bath, relaxing in a hammock<br />

and you get the picture.<br />

$10 off<br />

YOUR FIRST<br />

GROUP LESSON!<br />

MENTION THIS AD<br />

Jonson St, BYRON BAY • 02 6680 9828<br />

www.blackdogsurfing.com<br />

98 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


BYRON BEACHFRONT<br />

MAIN: Relax on the beach at Clarke's Beach Holiday Park<br />

FROM TOP: 1. Top-shelf stay - Shambhala@Byron;<br />

2. Inside the Safari tents at Suffolk Beach Holiday Park; 3.<br />

Atlantic Guesthouses offer unique accommodation options,<br />

4. Clarke's Beach Holiday Park. PHOTOS Supplied<br />

Byrobn Bbaya<br />

Discover the<br />

Byron beachfront<br />

holiday the locals<br />

recommend<br />

• OUR LEGENDARY LOCALLY<br />

DESIGNED SAFARI TENTS<br />

Hassle-free camping in style.<br />

• ABSOLUTE UNCROWDED<br />

BEACHFRONT<br />

Yes, Tallow Beach is right here - one of<br />

Byron’s best surf breaks.<br />

• LOCAL SHOPS, EATERIES<br />

AND FAMILY PUB<br />

Short walk down the road.<br />

• CHILLED OUT<br />

NATURAL SETTING<br />

Modern facilities, cabins, camping<br />

and van sites.<br />

Discover a holiday park that takes you back to when you were a kid.<br />

ONLY 5KM SOUTH OF BYRON BAY<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

99


Byron Bay... Where to stay<br />

BEACHCOMBER RESORT<br />

23-25 Shirley St, BYRON BAY<br />

WOLLONGBAR MOTEL<br />

19-21 Shirley St, BYRON BAY<br />

SHAMBHALA @ BYRON<br />

14 Childe St, BELONGIL<br />

CLARKES BEACH HOLIDAY PARK<br />

Off Lighthouse Rd, BYRON BAY<br />

BACKPACKERS INN<br />

ON THE BEACH<br />

29 Shirley Street, BYRON BAY<br />

Beachcomber Resort is the<br />

perfect Byron escape for<br />

surfers, their families and<br />

friends, with quality resort style<br />

accommodation which is in<br />

the heart of Byron Bay and its<br />

stunning beaches.<br />

With a variety of accommodation<br />

to suit every style and budget<br />

- from studios to 1-bedroom<br />

apartments and even dual key<br />

access, these beautiful and<br />

modern apartments are located<br />

close to shops, restaurants and<br />

cafes of Byron Bay.<br />

Proximity: 100 Metres to the<br />

beach (if that)<br />

P: 02 6639 6900<br />

E: info@beachcomberbyron.com.au<br />

www.beachcomberbyron.com.au<br />

Surfers take note: With a private<br />

path leading straight to The<br />

Wreck and a 2 minute walk to the<br />

heart of town, Wollongbar Motel<br />

is the perfect venue to experience<br />

Byron Bay. Wollongbar Motel is<br />

clean friendly and quiet. Features<br />

include; spacious, air-conditioned<br />

rooms, a saltwater swimming<br />

pool, large barbecue area and<br />

free parking.<br />

OFFER: Mention this ad for a<br />

complimentary breakfast!<br />

Proximity: Private path to the<br />

beach and 2 minute walk to<br />

centre of town.<br />

P: 02 6685 8200<br />

E: reservations@wollongbar.com<br />

www.wollongbar.com<br />

Majestic, hidden beachfront<br />

just minutes to the heart of<br />

town. Relax after a day in<br />

the surf in our ambient and<br />

tranquil environment. Beautiful<br />

rainforest setting with private<br />

spas, steam room, sauna.<br />

Perfect for couples or families.<br />

5-star, self-contained tree house<br />

retreats.<br />

Proximity: Absolute<br />

beachfront, on surf friendly<br />

Belongil beach. 15 minute<br />

walk to centre of town<br />

P: 1-800-SHAMBHALA<br />

E: enquiries@shambhala.org.au<br />

www.shambhala.org.au<br />

From $279 per night<br />

Located right on the beach at<br />

Byron Bay and the winner of the<br />

highest environmental award in<br />

the industry, the Gold Gumnut,<br />

this holiday park provides the<br />

perfect holiday setting for all<br />

ages. Guests have a choice of<br />

on-site cabin accommodation<br />

as well as powered and<br />

unpowered sites for caravans,<br />

motorhomes and tents. Enjoy<br />

direct access to the beach,<br />

superb accommodation and<br />

affordable rates.<br />

Proximity: Direct access to<br />

Clarkes Beach and walk to the<br />

Cape Byron Lighthouse.<br />

P: 02 6685 6496<br />

E: clarkesbeach@nchp.com.au<br />

www.northcoastholidayparks.com.au<br />

A true BEACH hostel focused<br />

entirely on budget backpacker<br />

accommodation. The only<br />

backpackers in Byron with direct<br />

beach access. Comfortable<br />

spacious dorms, double, twin,<br />

triple or single accommodation,<br />

this is the perfect location for<br />

surfers wanting to be right on<br />

the beach!<br />

Proximity: 45 seconds to the<br />

beach and 400 metres to the<br />

centre of Byron.<br />

FREE CALL: 1 800 817 696<br />

P: 02 6685 8231<br />

info@backpackersinnbyronbay.com.au<br />

backpackersinnbyronbay.com.au<br />

Rates from $25 per person<br />

From $95 per night for a<br />

studio room<br />

So many<br />

choices for<br />

all budgets<br />

Other than all of these great<br />

choices, you can go to<br />

www.byronbayaccom.net<br />

or www.puredrift.com<br />

to browse several hundred<br />

other options.<br />

9 Shirley Street, BYRON BAY<br />

Outrigger Bay is the perfect<br />

Byron getaway for the ultimate<br />

relaxing holiday. With direct<br />

access to the beach, these<br />

fabulous 2 or 3 bedroom<br />

apartments are not only in<br />

a stunning location but are<br />

also so close to Byron’s great<br />

restaurants and bars. This is<br />

an ideal location for a surfing<br />

holiday with the family or a<br />

group of friends.<br />

Proximity: DIRECT ACCESS to<br />

beach - only 50 metres walk and<br />

2 minute walk to town centre<br />

shops.<br />

P: 02 6685 8646<br />

E: info@outriggerbay.com<br />

www.outriggerbay.com<br />

From $195 per night<br />

ATLANTIC GUESTHOUSES<br />

13 Marvel St, BYRON BAY<br />

Located in the centre of Byron<br />

Bay, Atlantic Guesthouses is<br />

a unique way for you to enjoy<br />

your Byron Bay holiday.<br />

With a variety of budgets<br />

catered to, choose from the<br />

premium or standard ensuites,<br />

spacious doubles, shared rooms<br />

or select the very original<br />

American Airstream to truly<br />

experience a unique, boutique<br />

holiday.<br />

Proximity: Located in the<br />

centre of Byron Bay with a short<br />

walk to Main Beach.<br />

P: 02 6685 5118<br />

info@atlanticbyronbay.com.au<br />

www.atlanticbyronbay.com.au<br />

APARTMENTS INN BYRON<br />

20-22 Fletcher St, BYRON BAY<br />

If you and the family are looking<br />

for brand new and stylish<br />

accommodation in the centre<br />

of Byron Bay, you cannot go<br />

past Apartments Inn Byron.<br />

Beautiful accommodation,<br />

located only one block from<br />

the beach and surrounded by<br />

restaurants and shops this is<br />

ideal for a family holiday or a<br />

perfect romantic getaway.<br />

Proximity: 2 mins walk to main<br />

beach, in the heart of Byron Bay.<br />

P: 02 6620 9600<br />

innfo@apartmentsinnbyron.com.au<br />

www.apartmentsinnbyron.com.au<br />

See specials online<br />

SUFFOLK BEACHFRONT<br />

HOLIDAY PARK<br />

Alcorn Street, Suffolk Park<br />

(5km south of Byron Bay)<br />

You won’t find better Byron Bay<br />

surf accommodation than this!<br />

Absolute beachfront at one of<br />

Byron Bay’s best surf spots -<br />

beautiful Tallow Beach.<br />

Sites, cabins and Safari tents<br />

at affordable prices with clean,<br />

modern facilities and a relaxed<br />

coastal vibe. Many of our<br />

regulars return several times a<br />

year as they follow the breaks<br />

up and down the coast.<br />

Close to the action of Byron,<br />

yet far enough away so you<br />

can avoid the crowds and focus<br />

on catching that perfect wave.<br />

Proximity: Right on Tallow Beach<br />

Phone: 02 6685 3353<br />

info@suffolkbeachfront.com.au<br />

www.suffolkbeachfront.com.au<br />

Rates from $34 for two people<br />

TV<br />

gym<br />

laundry<br />

kitchen<br />

parking wi-fi pool airconditioning family-friendly pet-friendly spa<br />

bbq<br />

100 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


Thumbs<br />

Up!<br />

A place qapart(ment)<br />

While pulling this feature on Byron Bay together, we had the<br />

pleasure of spending two nights at the Apartments Inn at 22<br />

Fletcher Street, and what a pleasure it was...<br />

THE FIRST TEST.<br />

When you walk into a hotel or<br />

holiday apartments you want<br />

to be welcomed. The staff at<br />

Apartments Inn are exceptional.<br />

Courteous, polite and prompt but<br />

not too uptight, as can be the<br />

case with some establishments.<br />

We were made to feel welcome<br />

straight away by manager Alan<br />

Junor and his team and were off<br />

to our room in less than 2 minutes.<br />

SECOND TEST.<br />

We stayed in a two-bedroom<br />

apartment and it was incredibly<br />

spacious with a large kitchen<br />

area, dining table, lounge, outdoor<br />

setting, a full size bathroom and<br />

two good-sized bedrooms, one<br />

with an ensuite. Each of the rooms<br />

were beautifully furnished, well<br />

appointed and had a touch of class.<br />

THIRD TEST.<br />

And most important, our apartment<br />

was spotless. It was very clean,<br />

which always helps you to relax<br />

and unwind from the outset.<br />

The Apartments Inn opened in<br />

July 2009 and they still have that<br />

distinctly ‘new’ feel to them.<br />

We thoroughly enjoyed our stay<br />

and its central location was<br />

another plus. No need to worry<br />

about finding a park, which when<br />

Byron is busy can be a nightmare,<br />

not to mention the congestion<br />

centring around the Jonson and<br />

Lawson Street roundabout.<br />

The Apartments Inn is only 150m<br />

to Main Beach and you can<br />

walk to the many nearby shops,<br />

restaurants and cafes including<br />

the best breakfast in Byron right<br />

across the road at Dip Café.<br />

Don't take our word for it.<br />

Check out www.tripadvisor.com to<br />

see we're not alone in our praise.<br />

Regular comments from guests all<br />

praise the staff’s friendliness and<br />

the clean, spacious and wellappointed<br />

rooms.<br />

Apartments Inn won the North<br />

Coast Tourism Awards and was a<br />

finalist in the NSW Tourism Awards<br />

in 2010 and it’s not surprising.<br />

For more, check out the website<br />

www.apartmentsinnbyron.com.au.<br />

Inspired by boutique<br />

Carribean guesthouses with<br />

all you love about the relaxed<br />

Byron Bay lifestyle.<br />

A range of options from<br />

premium ensuite rooms to<br />

spacious double rooms with<br />

shared bathrooms.<br />

www.atlanticbyronbay.com.au<br />

Phone: (02) 6685 5118<br />

Fax: (02) 6680 9430<br />

Email: info@atlanticbyronbay.com.au<br />

13 Marvel St, Byron Bay NSW, 2481<br />

Certificate of Excellence <strong>2011</strong><br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

101


Byron Bay...<br />

uGet there!b<br />

Formerly Byron Bay<br />

Longboards...<br />

The first priority of a surfing holiday is to get there and get wet as quick as<br />

you can. With that in mind, Byron is super-accessible by plane. Jetstar and<br />

Virgin fly into the Gold Coast every day of the week from Hobart, Adelaide,<br />

Melbourne and Sydney. Alternatively you can fly Virgin from Melbourne.<br />

Hobart and Sydney to Ballina Airport. All flights are more or less under<br />

$200 one way if you book in advance, even under $100 from Sydney.<br />

From there it’s as easy as a quick call to Xcede Aiport Transfers. Gold<br />

Coast Airport to Byron is under $40. Ballina Airport To Byron only $15.<br />

Better still, if you book and pay online, you can save yourself a further<br />

20% and the guys at Xcede don’t charge extra for surfboards (within<br />

reason). Just make sure you let them know what you are packing in<br />

advance.<br />

If you are heading to Byron by car, again, it's pretty easy. From the<br />

Pacific Highway turnoff to the town itself is only a straight 10 min drive.<br />

Ph: 02 668 55244<br />

Shop 1/89 Jonson Street, Byron Bay, NSW 2481<br />

new name - new stock - same great service<br />

SHUTTLE BUS FOR<br />

YOU AND YOUR BOARD!<br />

Book online at www.xcede.com.au<br />

From Brisbane<br />

It’s only 1 hour and 40 minutes straight<br />

down the Pacific Highway.<br />

From Sydney<br />

770 kms and 8 ½ hours straight down<br />

the Pacific Highway.<br />

From Melbourne<br />

16 ½ hours drive and 1,640 kms. It’s<br />

simple, Hume Highway to Gundagai,<br />

Yass and Goulburn, pass the western<br />

outskirts of Sydney and then get onto<br />

the Pacific Highway near Pymble and<br />

follow it to Byron.<br />

From Adelaide<br />

2,100 kms and just over 22 hours drive.<br />

Take the Sturt Highway to Renmark<br />

onto Mildura, through Narrandera<br />

to Wagga Wagga and then onto the<br />

Hume Highway to Gundagai, Yass and<br />

Goulburn. You will pass the western<br />

outskirts of Sydney and then get onto<br />

the Pacific Highway near Pymble and<br />

follow it to Byron.<br />

Saying this, just fly. It's a massive<br />

drive. Save your energy for the waves<br />

and not for sitting down behind the<br />

wheel.<br />

So...<br />

Drive, fly, walk, run, fly... However you<br />

get there, Byron Bay will reward you<br />

in waves, views and unforgettable<br />

experiences. Put Byron on your mustvisit<br />

list and you, like so many others<br />

will be hooked for life. Enjoy.<br />

102 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


Tweed Valley<br />

Northern<br />

Rivers Region<br />

New England<br />

Region<br />

BRISBANE 104km<br />

Upper Clarence<br />

Region<br />

Coolangatta<br />

olang<br />

atta<br />

Tweed Heads<br />

Hastings Point<br />

BRUNSWICK HEADS<br />

BYRON BAY<br />

LENNOX HEAD<br />

Lismore<br />

BALLINA<br />

Grafton<br />

RED ROCK<br />

CORINDI<br />

MOONEE<br />

Coffs Harbour<br />

MYLESTOM<br />

URUNGA<br />

HUNGRY HEAD<br />

NAMBUCCA HEADS<br />

Macleay Valley<br />

SCOTTS HEAD<br />

EVANS HEAD<br />

Kempsey<br />

Port Macquarie<br />

BONNY NY HILLS<br />

LS<br />

NORTH HAVEN<br />

SYDNEY 370km<br />

Iluka<br />

Yamba<br />

18 beautiful<br />

coastal locations!<br />

MANY PARKS SITUATED DIRECTLY<br />

ON THE BEACH AND SOME WITH<br />

DIRECT BEACH ACCESS<br />

Pack up your boards & wetties<br />

and set off for an affordable<br />

stay at one of our 18<br />

holiday parks! They won’t<br />

cost you the world, yet<br />

offer you everything you<br />

need for your perfect surfari.<br />

POWERED<br />

SITES<br />

from ONLY $18<br />

per night*<br />

* Rate based on Nambucca Headland Holiday Park.<br />

www.northcoastholidayparks.com.au<br />

FOLLOW US ON<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

103


uByron Bay ..v.<br />

THE VIBRANT<br />

The qPrecinctb<br />

INDUSTRIAL<br />

ESTATE HOME TO<br />

BYRON BAY’S<br />

SURF ROYALTY<br />

104 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


Within Australia you would be hard pressed<br />

to find more shaping experience, skill and<br />

knowledge concentrated in one small area. Byron<br />

Bay's industrial precinct, known as the Byron<br />

Bay Arts and Industry Park is the epicentre of<br />

surfboard design and construction in the region,<br />

arguably the country. Perhaps only Mona Vale in<br />

Sydney, or Torquay could be considered a rival<br />

for sheer volume of choice. So many talented<br />

surfboard makers have set up shop here.<br />

Yes, there are options... and lots of them. All<br />

manner of makes, models and surfboard designs<br />

by craftsmen widely regarded as not only the<br />

best in Australia, but the world, are on display<br />

here. Beyond the shapers, you can have fins<br />

made, get custom accessories, find expert ding<br />

repairs, artists and so much more. Is there<br />

anything you can't find within these few streets?<br />

But this is no surfer's mall. While you can drool<br />

over the final product in showrooms, more<br />

importantly, you can get a true sense of how<br />

the blood, sweat and tears get mixed in copious<br />

amounts with resin and foam dust. Here you get<br />

to look behind the scenes, because the residents<br />

live and breathe surfboards..<br />

We take a look at a truly unique area and<br />

introduce you to those friendly and inspiring<br />

people that spoke with us about sharing the love<br />

of surfing through their craft.<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

7<br />

8<br />

9<br />

10<br />

11<br />

McTavish Surfboards<br />

91 Centennial Circuit • 02 6685 6736<br />

www.mctavish.com.au<br />

McCoy Surfboards/<br />

Town & Country<br />

10 Acacia Street • 02 6685 7485<br />

www.mccoysurfboards.com<br />

www.tcsurf.com.au<br />

Munro Surfboards<br />

29 Acacia Street • 02 6685 6211<br />

www.munrosurfboards.com.au<br />

Parkes Surfing<br />

4/83 Centennial Circuit • 02 6685 6627<br />

www.parkesaustralia.com<br />

Maddog Surf Centre<br />

Ewingsdale Road • 02 6685 6022<br />

www.maddog.com.au<br />

ESP Surfboards<br />

2/81 Centennial Circuit • 0404 059 321<br />

www.espsurfshop.com.au<br />

Michael Cundith<br />

3 Banksia Drive • 02 6685 8778<br />

www.mcsurf.com.au<br />

Crosslink Traction<br />

7/84 Centennial Circuit • 02 6685 7350<br />

www.deckgrips.com<br />

Doctor Ding<br />

2/68 Centennial Circuit • 0431 740 940<br />

www.drdingsurfboardrepairs.com<br />

Emery Surfboards<br />

5/19 Tasman Way • 02 6685 5500<br />

www.emerysurfboards.com<br />

Surfari Maps<br />

4/67 Centennial Circuit • 02 6685 7250<br />

www.surfarimaps.com<br />

9<br />

6<br />

4<br />

11<br />

10<br />

8<br />

1<br />

3<br />

2<br />

7<br />

5<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

105


Bob McTavish still remains<br />

hands-on in the shaping bay.<br />

Photo: Samuel Lindsay<br />

"My personal pursuit of the endless progression of surfboard design will hopefully continue to revolutionise surfing." Bob McTavish<br />

The McTavish showroom and<br />

workshop in Centennial Circuit<br />

106 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


McaTavisbh<br />

Surfboards<br />

The name McTavish is synonymous with<br />

Byron Bay. Bob has been a part of the surf<br />

scene here since it began in the early sixties.<br />

His rationale for settling here was a happy<br />

medium between his love for Byron Bay and<br />

Lennox Head just down the road. His thought<br />

process is best explained in his autobiography<br />

Stoked!, “Where to settle? Which little<br />

coastal town offered all I needed? ...I could<br />

surf Lennox in the mornings while the wind<br />

was offshore, then move around to the shelter<br />

of The Pass and Wategos in the afternoon<br />

sea breezes: what an amazing combo.” And<br />

as such, Bob now lives at Suffolk Park at the<br />

southern end of Byron, smack bang between<br />

The Pass and Lennox.<br />

Inside the laminating room.<br />

Photo: Samuel Lindsay<br />

As for the board building side of things, his<br />

business continues to flourish. McTavish is truly<br />

an international company nowadays. The factory<br />

and retail operation, which form the hub of the<br />

McTavish operation, are still based in the Byron<br />

Bay Arts and Industry Park, but McTavish also<br />

distributes some 20 different models to over 30<br />

countries worldwide.<br />

With that said, the going hasn’t always been<br />

easy and it has been a long tough road to where<br />

the company is today. Over the course of the last<br />

45 years, the McTavish name and associated<br />

companies have existed in many forms. The first<br />

major distribution of custom McTavish Surfboards<br />

commenced with the ‘Bluebird’ model back in<br />

1972. It’s reputed to be the world’s first production<br />

shortboard and had a strong reputation for<br />

cutting edge design and performance. That same<br />

commitment to design excellence and performance<br />

continues today.<br />

“I have remained in Byron all this time working<br />

as a shaper, carving out boards by hand, keeping<br />

up with the movements and innovations of the<br />

younger crew, and still innovating where I can.<br />

It hasn’t been the most financially rewarding job<br />

choice, but it is immensely satisfying, creating<br />

vehicles that move and work in and around those<br />

spinning vortices known as waves, and customfitting<br />

them to thousands of surfers over the years.”<br />

The strength of resolve to forge ahead even<br />

through the tough times has ensured the McTavish<br />

brand remains true to its roots, making quality<br />

surfboards for surfers from all walks of life.<br />

1<br />

Today you can buy, or indeed order a custom<br />

made McTavish in a variety of shapes and sizes<br />

and even construction materials, from traditional<br />

fibreglass to SLX epoxy or Surftech Tuflite epoxy<br />

construction. In total, there are 2 models to choose<br />

from, ranging from shortboards through to stand-up<br />

paddleboards.<br />

Bob McTavish has always been well known for<br />

his longboards with the resurgence of the big<br />

M in the mid-nineties and the rise in popularity<br />

of modern longboarding, but it's his range of<br />

shortboards where a lot of work at present is<br />

being concentrated. And why not, he is widely<br />

recognised as one of the founding fathers of the<br />

shortboard revolution, so his input and innovation<br />

is as valid today as ever. Two new notable entries<br />

to the McTavish quiver are the Bobsled - a<br />

shortboard quad with speed to burn and as loose<br />

as a goose - and the Sumo - a high volume midlength<br />

with a pulled in pin tail. Easy to paddle and<br />

a whole lot of fun.<br />

With such a multitude of boards to choose from,<br />

it's very comforting to know you can in fact hire<br />

one out to take it for a burn. Pleasingly, the entire<br />

range of McTavish Surfboards are available for<br />

hire at their Byron Bay Factory Outlet. So if you're<br />

planning on visiting Byron for a bit of a holiday<br />

or just travelling through, you can test out which<br />

McTavish model is best for you. Board hire costs<br />

$40 a day or $200 per week. Better still, if you<br />

decide to purchase a board after hiring one out, you<br />

will get your hire board money back off the price of<br />

your new board up to a value of $120.<br />

ABOVE: Bob McTavish, 1969.<br />

Photo: Billy Dawson<br />

BELOW: Bob gets barrelled at<br />

Lennox. Photo: John Milek<br />

91 Centennial Circuit • 02 6685 6736 • www.mctavish.com.au • sales mctavish.com.au<br />

Byron Bay ... The precinct<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

1<strong>07</strong>


Byron Bay ... The precinct<br />

RIGHT: The man and his creations.<br />

ABOVE: Geoff McCoy takes some time out for a chat.<br />

McaCoy<br />

Surfboards<br />

"High<br />

performance<br />

is a myth,<br />

something created<br />

by clothing<br />

companies and<br />

pure ignorance. "<br />

Geoff McCoy<br />

Growing up, my parents<br />

instilled in me the importance<br />

of speaking your mind. “Silence<br />

is golden but sometimes it's<br />

yellow. Show tact son, but<br />

never kiss arse and don’t be a<br />

coward in expressing your point<br />

of view,” was what they always<br />

said to me.<br />

It is the best advice I have ever<br />

been given. And it is probably<br />

why I think the world of this<br />

bloke... A legendary shaper.<br />

From the moment I met him, I<br />

liked him. No bullshit. What you<br />

see is what you get.<br />

If there is one person who<br />

epitomises the smorgasboarder<br />

spirit, it's Geoff McCoy. He<br />

doesn’t care about what is cool.<br />

He simply designs boards that<br />

deliver the most enjoyment.<br />

The more I see of his designs<br />

and hear the explanations behind<br />

what he does, the closer I become<br />

to a McCoy devotee. And believe<br />

me, there are a lot out there. A<br />

good mate of mine picked up<br />

a McCoy a few years back and<br />

hasn’t stop raving about it since.<br />

Once hooked, McCoy surfers<br />

seem to become members of the<br />

"McCoy Boys" club.<br />

As for his design philosophies,<br />

it’s best I leave Geoff to explain<br />

them himself in his own<br />

uncompromising way.<br />

“High performance does not<br />

exist in my world at all.<br />

“High performance is a myth,<br />

something created by clothing<br />

companies and pure ignorance.<br />

It’s just bullshit and has nothing<br />

to do with actual surfing<br />

performance and true design<br />

for the majority of surfers. The<br />

illusions created are totally<br />

unattainable for all but the very<br />

best.<br />

“Performance surfing can be<br />

achieved on all levels from<br />

beginner to elite. It is just that<br />

each level requires a different<br />

performance to have the desired<br />

outcome. There is no point<br />

having a high performance<br />

surfboard when you are only<br />

average, as it does not work.”<br />

The McCoy Energy Theory<br />

“I have a passion as a surfboard<br />

designer to pursue the truth<br />

and source what objects are<br />

best suited for people to ride on<br />

waves with pure function and<br />

ease of control for the surfer.<br />

I now understand the common<br />

denominator is ‘pure energy’,<br />

pure energy moving through a<br />

mass of water which forms a<br />

wave.<br />

“Unless a designer can<br />

understand the principals of<br />

pure energy and how to harness<br />

it in a functional sense, it's<br />

almost impossible to build an<br />

object to ride on that is easy<br />

to control. Through years of<br />

surfing and testing boards, I've<br />

developed a deep understanding<br />

of riding a wave, including how<br />

the wave functions, the reaction<br />

water has to objects and the<br />

technique required to control<br />

and ride a wave.<br />

“Heightened awareness has<br />

helped me to discover the<br />

importance of neutralising an<br />

object’s reaction to a wave. To<br />

give the surfer a more stable<br />

platform to surf off and a much<br />

more practical and user-friendly<br />

way to go surfing. In achieving<br />

this within surfboard design, the<br />

surfer dictates the moves and<br />

is not prone to an over-reactive,<br />

highly sensitive, hard-to-control<br />

surfboard that many surfers<br />

battle with every time they take<br />

off on a wave.<br />

“The boards I design perform<br />

functions on a wave with ease.<br />

They provide the surfer with<br />

the freedom to catch and ride<br />

waves without the struggle,<br />

which in turn allows surfers<br />

of all abilities to improve their<br />

performance overall, because<br />

they're catching more waves<br />

and because of the ease of<br />

performance of their board.<br />

“I have said it many times<br />

before and will continue to<br />

say it until the message gets<br />

through. There is no connection<br />

between high performance<br />

professional equipment and the<br />

part-time, recreational surfer.<br />

It’s a simple as that. Do not get<br />

sucked in by some ignorant fool<br />

that calls themself a surfboard<br />

designer with a large brown<br />

stain around their neck dribbling<br />

uncoordinated unrealistic...<br />

about how their best team riders<br />

are ripping on the latest disaster<br />

they manifested.<br />

“If nothing else, so-called high<br />

performance equipment has<br />

proven how dysfunctional it<br />

is in the hands of the average<br />

surfer and should be avoided<br />

completely.”<br />

Geoff McCoy’s philosophy is<br />

best summed by what Google<br />

brings up for his name... McCoy<br />

Surfboards, high performance<br />

Australian made surfboards for<br />

surfers of all ability levels.<br />

www.mccoysurfboards.com<br />

108 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


Town &<br />

bCountury<br />

2<br />

Surfboardsv<br />

Town & Country and McCoy<br />

Surfboards sit comfortably side by<br />

side in the same building at 10 Acacia<br />

Street in the Industrial Estate at Byron<br />

Bay. One stop. Awesome boards. Easy.<br />

It's often been said,<br />

“People, not machines,<br />

make surfboards.” No truer<br />

words could be spoken when<br />

referring to Town & Country<br />

Surfboards in Byron Bay.<br />

In the PSM (Professional<br />

Surfboard Manufacturing)<br />

factory, where Town &<br />

Country surfboards are made,<br />

the combined experience<br />

handcrafting surfboards adds<br />

up to over 220 years. It goes<br />

without saying, these guys<br />

know a thing or two about<br />

surfboard design. Imagine<br />

the boards shaped during this<br />

time. Let’s face it, experience<br />

does count.<br />

Now it may not look like<br />

much from the outside and<br />

there's no sexy sales people<br />

inside (except Michelle of<br />

course) but hell, it's one hell<br />

of a factory showroom. It's<br />

cavernous, with just loads of<br />

surfboards. There are rows<br />

upon rows of shortboards,<br />

hybrids, longboards, second<br />

hand boards as well as the<br />

complete McCoy range.<br />

DOUG UNGER, the head<br />

honcho and proprietor of PSM,<br />

a born and bred Byron Bay<br />

local who started his career<br />

as a sander back in the 70’s<br />

explains their commitment to<br />

quality: “We all work together<br />

to get the best quality boards<br />

for surfers, from beginners to<br />

pros. Our team put there hands<br />

to top notch labels such as<br />

our own, Town & Country<br />

since 1983, and also McCoy,<br />

Maddog, Mark Richards<br />

and San Juan since 1966.<br />

Quality is the key in today’s<br />

marketplace and to get quality,<br />

it takes all the people in<br />

one place working together<br />

towards a common goal.”<br />

Let’s meet the people behind<br />

the scenes.<br />

LEFT: The Buzz at work<br />

ABOVE: The T&C showroom<br />

BRUNO ‘THE BUZZ’<br />

BUZZOLAN<br />

Grew up on the NSW South<br />

Coast and began shaping<br />

boards for himself and his<br />

mates in 1972 before moving<br />

to Byron in 1978. He started<br />

at Sky Surfboards working<br />

alongside the likes of Bob<br />

McTavish, George Greenough,<br />

Chris Brock, Michael Cundith,<br />

Rod Dahlberg and Nev Hyman,<br />

Tony Cerff, Gunther Rohn and<br />

Geoff McCoy.<br />

“I’ve always liked boards to be<br />

fast, responsive and forgiving.<br />

The average Joe has only<br />

one board, so it must handle<br />

1-6 foot conditions and even<br />

up to 8 foot occasionally.<br />

So, I concentrate on design<br />

aspects to produce the perfect<br />

all-rounder. Boards that work<br />

in 2 foot slop to lumpy 6 foot<br />

chunks and still go off in 2-6<br />

foot clean pits. The individual’s<br />

personal preference, ability<br />

and location they surf, as<br />

well as the best features of<br />

comp models, are the main<br />

influences in my designs.”<br />

‘GYPO’ ROBERT FENECH<br />

Born in Maroubra, he started<br />

his own backyard surfboard<br />

business when he was just 15<br />

years of age. He’s been hand<br />

shaping surfboards since.<br />

When Gypo moved to Byron<br />

Bay he too began working for<br />

Sky Surfboards.<br />

"Shaping since 1975, through<br />

the major years of evolution in<br />

performance shortboards, has<br />

given me a solid understanding<br />

of design facets - rockers,<br />

outlines, rails, bottom shapes<br />

and fins.<br />

"Using this knowledge and<br />

experience is crucial to the<br />

progression of future surfboard<br />

design. My Hybrid series is<br />

the start in a new direction of<br />

performance surfboard design.<br />

Not so focused on contest or<br />

aerial surfing, but performance<br />

in a way that would suit the<br />

majority of surfers at any level."<br />

GARY BURMESTER, with<br />

over 30 years experience,<br />

and MICHAEL MCLENNAN<br />

are champion laminators.<br />

Their skill coupled with<br />

our temperature controlled<br />

glassing room results in<br />

boards with superior strength<br />

to weight ratios.<br />

ROY MEISEL is the expert<br />

showroom fountain-ofknowledge<br />

for all things surf<br />

related. Roy’s been a part of<br />

the industry his whole life and<br />

knows his stuff. Indeed, Roy was<br />

the original owner of the iconic<br />

surfboard label Bare Nature.<br />

PAUL GOFFETT<br />

With over 30 years experience,<br />

he is one of the best sanders<br />

in the world. (After shaping<br />

our own boards we know only<br />

too well how much of a skill<br />

sanding really is. It's where<br />

most boards come unstuck.<br />

Great design + crap sander =<br />

crap board.)<br />

ALONZO PUNKER'S dream<br />

was to one day work for T&C.<br />

His clothes and car reflect his<br />

attitude:“Surfing Is My Life”<br />

and “One Day I’ll Get A Real<br />

Job” and he did! Alonzos’<br />

enthusiasm pumped us all up.<br />

His sprays and shapes speak<br />

for themselves. Spray art and<br />

airbrushing are his specialities.<br />

PAUL CARDEN<br />

Gloss coater/ polisher. 18<br />

years experience puts finishes<br />

to boards that are pure<br />

perfection. Together with<br />

PETER GROVER, the boys<br />

polish boards that outshine the<br />

competition. No dull patches.<br />

DARREN BIRCH<br />

The fin man. Multi-skilled and<br />

over 25 years experience.<br />

MICHELLE MORRISON<br />

The office manager who<br />

together with Doug, keep<br />

things ticking along smoothly.<br />

Next time you're in Byron Bay,<br />

drop in and meet the team in<br />

person yourself.<br />

02 6685 7485 • www.tcsurf.com.au<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

109


I first came across Brett<br />

Munro’s handiwork when my<br />

brother returned from a trip to<br />

Byron some years ago. He had<br />

commented how at ease he<br />

was talking with Brett about<br />

getting a board custom made.<br />

“He’s not up himself and there’s<br />

no attitude. He just listens to<br />

what you want, answers your<br />

questions, asks a few of his<br />

own and steers you in the right<br />

direction.You’re not made to<br />

feel like a dickhead if you don't<br />

understand the intricacies of<br />

surfboard design.”<br />

Brett is as down-to-earth as<br />

they come and I have sincerely<br />

enjoyed catching up with him<br />

each and every time I have<br />

passed through Byron. Truth<br />

be told, I would attribute a lot<br />

of things I have learnt about<br />

surfboards to date from my chats<br />

with Brett. He certainly doesn’t<br />

try to over complicate discussions<br />

with high-tech bullshit.<br />

Most importantly, his boards are<br />

the goods and for peace of mind,<br />

an SBT microchip anti-theft<br />

protection system is available.<br />

Performance orientated in their<br />

design, he shapes a multitude of<br />

boards from twin-keel fishes and<br />

Brett's a Kiwi, so sound interested in rugby and attest<br />

to the fact the All Blacks are sure to win the next World<br />

Cup, full knowing they will choke at the last hurdle, just<br />

so he looks after you with an extra special board.<br />

Mounrno<br />

Handcrafted vSurfboards<br />

quads to shortboard thrusters,<br />

single fins and longboards.<br />

Many a professional title has<br />

been claimed on his boards,<br />

including Beau Young’s two<br />

world titles.<br />

As for my brother’s 7’4” sky blue<br />

thruster with Speeed Fins and<br />

carbon fibre rods near the rails,<br />

it goes like the clappers. He<br />

rates it as one of his favourite<br />

boards. Eight years on, it<br />

still looks brand new, which<br />

speaks volumes of the quality<br />

craftsmanship and the top end<br />

materials they use at Munro.<br />

BRETT MUNRO<br />

Hand shaping surfboards for<br />

close to 40 years, Brett started<br />

out as an understudy to Kingsley<br />

‘Knackers’ Kernoski in Whangamatta,<br />

NZ in 1974.<br />

After six years as a partner in<br />

Saltwater Surfboards, in 1981<br />

he moved to Coffs Harbour and<br />

established Prana Surfboards<br />

until 1993, when he moved<br />

to Byron Bay starting up<br />

Heart’n’Soul and Munro.<br />

29 Acacia St • 02 6685 6211<br />

www.munrosurfboards.com.au<br />

3<br />

4<br />

DAVE PARKES<br />

first starting shaping<br />

kneeboards back in the<br />

Friar Tuck factory at<br />

Brookvale in 1978 before<br />

the company moved to<br />

Byron Bay in 1981, Dave<br />

took over the business<br />

in 1983.<br />

NEIL LUKE has been<br />

shaping kneeboards since<br />

1970, surfing the heavy<br />

reef breaks of Phillip<br />

Island and working with<br />

Island Surfboards until<br />

he moved to Byron Bay a<br />

couple of years back to<br />

work with Dave<br />

4/83 Centennial Circuit<br />

02 6685 6627<br />

www.parkesaustralia.com<br />

bParkes<br />

Surfing<br />

As a surfer and a shaper Dave Parkes has<br />

walked the walk. He is a six-time Australian<br />

Kneeboard Champion and has shaped<br />

countless kneeboards as well as a variety of<br />

surfboards for over 30 years, learning from<br />

legendary surfers and shapers. And to further<br />

add to the credibility, legendary kneeboarder<br />

and shaper, Neil Luke also works out of the<br />

Parkes Factory.<br />

Now I must admit I have never given<br />

kneeboarding a go. But with that said, I will<br />

certainly take up the boys offer and give it a<br />

crack next time I am passing through Byron.<br />

Like everything surf related, I am always keen<br />

to personally explore new frontiers. Let’s face<br />

it, it’s not as if kneeboarding is a ‘new’ frontier.<br />

It was incredibly popular in the 70’s following<br />

movies such as George Greenough’s Innermost<br />

Limits of Pure Fun in 1968 and seems to be<br />

enjoying somewhat of a resurgence nowadays.<br />

Personally, I think kneeboarding is unreal. Our<br />

mag has always celebrated the unbridled joy<br />

of surfing, no matter what board you choose<br />

to ride. Pleasingly, most open-minded surfers<br />

these days don’t care much for how they look<br />

are what is ‘in’. They are simply out there to<br />

have fun and enjoy surfing on all manner of<br />

craft and thank bloody goodness for that.<br />

Anyhow, back to my kneelo friends. Guys<br />

like Dave Parkes and Neil Luke seem to have<br />

always been at the forefront of surfboard<br />

design. They’re totally uninhibited in relation<br />

to surfboard design and are more than<br />

comfortable pushing the boundaries. They<br />

aren’t too concerned about conforming to what<br />

is the ‘in’ shape. They simply hand craft boards<br />

to suit the rider and the ‘feel’ they are after.<br />

This dedication to innovation and an openly<br />

collaborative approach to shaping means the<br />

Parkes Factory breaks the mould producing<br />

boards that feature a combination of proven<br />

designs, new approaches to design and<br />

construction, and rigorous testing.<br />

Here they craft kneeboards by Dave Parkes and<br />

Neil Luke and the Friar Tuck label<br />

The factory not only shapes kneeboards but<br />

also a variety of other surfcraft, such as Midget<br />

Farrelly Longboards which are made under<br />

licence. Previously mini mals and malibus were<br />

made for Scott Dillon, as well as performance<br />

shortboards for Garrett Parkes and his mates.<br />

110 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


uMaddogv<br />

bSurf Centre<br />

A massive range of gear is<br />

available in store at Maddog<br />

Vintage board<br />

fans have<br />

plenty to see<br />

as well<br />

The big red building on the corner of Ewingsdale and<br />

Banksia is home to Maddog and San Juan Surfboards.<br />

Well priced and well made is the best way I can describe<br />

these boards. Not only that, Maddog headquarters at<br />

Byron Bay has a bloody good range. Every time I visit I<br />

come out salivating. Yes, I must admit to a massive soft<br />

spot for San Juan Surfboards.<br />

I have surfed for most of my life but lost touch with the<br />

waves during my mid teens. When I rediscovered surfing,<br />

it was thanks to a liquid flame red Juan. I surfed her for<br />

some 14-odd years before she came to an untimely end<br />

in a sizeable swell at Currumbin. My red Juan now sits<br />

pride of place above the bar, albeit in two pieces.<br />

Anyhow I digress, if you want variety of colours, shapes,<br />

different lengths... Maddog’s headquarters at Byron Bay<br />

has the lot.<br />

John has been going about his business since the 1970’s.<br />

Maddog Surf Centre is not only a wealth of history thanks<br />

to all the vintage boards on display on the floor and<br />

across the rafters, but is an absolute warehouse of brand<br />

new surfboards of every size, style shape, colour and<br />

description including brands like JS, DHD and Al Merrick.<br />

If you're a fan of Mark Richards' boards, you might be<br />

interested to know that Maddog have been glassing<br />

them since the 70s. They also stock a wide range of his<br />

boards, from retro twinnies to MR's current performance<br />

boards. There's also a massive selection of secondhand<br />

boards for the bargain shoppers, newbies, backpackers<br />

and hopeful collectors.<br />

Sure they have clothes, wetsuits, accessories and the<br />

like but they are much more than your stereotypical<br />

surf fashion retail store. Maddog is a surf hardware<br />

shop first and foremost... A surfers' surf shop. If surfing<br />

is less about following a fashion trend and more<br />

about following your heart, you'll feel right at home at<br />

Maddog’s headquarters.<br />

John and Mark, along with younger gun Beau, provide<br />

good, old-fashioned service and actually know something<br />

about surfboards. Now who would have thought?<br />

After all, they've been around the surfboard shaping<br />

environment for donkey’s years and can advise you on<br />

the right board for your ability level.<br />

And for those interested in the art of it all, you can<br />

actually see boards being shaped in the shaping bay. It's<br />

not some token shaping bay with a glass window looking<br />

through to an empty room for atmospheric effect but a<br />

shaping bay used five days a week by in-house shapers,<br />

Mark Plater and Matt Crisp.<br />

Ewingsdale Road<br />

02 6685 6022<br />

www.maddog.com.au<br />

5<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

Byron Bay ... The precinct<br />

111


Jeremy 'X' Williams<br />

bESP<br />

Surfboardus<br />

Luke Cooper Photo Balistyle<br />

“Any shaper<br />

worth their salt<br />

should be vfamiliar<br />

with all aspects<br />

of design.”o<br />

Ed Sinnott cb<br />

6<br />

2/81 Centennial Circuit<br />

0404 059 321<br />

www.espsurfshop.com.au<br />

Ed Sinnott has pretty much seen<br />

it all. His career has spanned the<br />

single-fin, twin-fin, thruster and<br />

the modern longboard.<br />

“When I started surfing in<br />

the late sixties many of the<br />

surf companies and board<br />

manufacturers of today didn’t<br />

exist. We didn’t wear leg ropes,<br />

wetsuits were basically non<br />

existent and no one would have<br />

ever conceived you could get a<br />

surfboard made in China or that<br />

plastic boards made in Thailand<br />

would ever be acceptable.”<br />

"The angle that got me into<br />

surfboard design in the first<br />

place was a creative one. In the<br />

seventies as a teenager I was at<br />

art school doing the bohemian<br />

thing, surfing everyday, painting,<br />

drawing, doing leatherwork and<br />

repairing dings for cash.<br />

“I started working at John<br />

Skipp’s factory, painting<br />

surfboards, doing pin lines,<br />

polishing, sanding, glassing,<br />

sweeping the floor, doing dings<br />

and gradually shaping more and<br />

more. I just had this incredible<br />

drive and passion to create<br />

really good surfboards. It was all<br />

about the creation and the joy of<br />

riding those pieces of functional<br />

sculpture out in the ocean."<br />

Ed first picked up a planer back<br />

in 1976 and has not turned it<br />

off since. Originating from The<br />

Gong, today he lives in Byron<br />

taking every opportunity to surf<br />

classic line ups such as Broken<br />

Head, The Pass, Tallows and<br />

Lennox. He still does what he<br />

started doing over thirty years<br />

ago, surfing and shaping every<br />

day, playing music, writing songs<br />

and staying fit. By his thinking,<br />

he is living the dream.<br />

“Over the last 30 years I have<br />

shaped over 18,000 surfboards<br />

for a huge variety of people from<br />

all over the world and gained<br />

invaluable experience by shaping<br />

for surfers on the ASP World Tour<br />

as well as several World, State<br />

and Australian title holders.<br />

“I shape the whole spectrum<br />

of surfboard design, everything<br />

including hi-performance<br />

shortboards, fishes, mini mals,<br />

retro designs and longboards.<br />

In my opinion, any shaper worth<br />

their salt should be familiar<br />

with all aspects of design.<br />

My shaping focus is intergenerational.”<br />

Since 1976, Ed has combined<br />

his knowledge of surfing with a<br />

passion for hard work, originality<br />

and innovation within the field of<br />

surfboard manufacturing.<br />

In a world where mass<br />

production and pop-outs from<br />

Asian countries abound it’s<br />

refreshing to see someone still<br />

following tradition and living the<br />

dream as a surfer/shaper.<br />

“I personally chose to<br />

manufacture my boards<br />

using Australian workers and<br />

materials. Mass production,<br />

plastic surfboards and the<br />

hard sell are not my scene and<br />

never ever will be. Producing<br />

professionally made surfboards<br />

of A1 quality is. Here at ESP we<br />

are proud of what we do and<br />

as a group of Australian surfers<br />

we have never embraced the<br />

propaganda pushed in the surf<br />

media by companies owned<br />

by overseas dollars promoting<br />

Asian surfboards.<br />

“The fantastic shapers and<br />

craftsmen I learned from and<br />

worked with were all at one<br />

time master surfer/shapers<br />

including Terry Richardson,<br />

Frank Latta, Michael and Tom<br />

Peterson, Kevin Parkinson, Carl<br />

Schaefer, John Skipp, Ben Shaw,<br />

Tom Storey and Ralph Riddell."<br />

Ed plans to continue carrying<br />

the flame of creating quality<br />

Australian, hand made<br />

surfboards. Amen to that.<br />

112 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


Michael Cundith<br />

Surf Designs<br />

Shortboards, longboards, all types of fish<br />

boards; dart fish, speed fish, big boys fish,<br />

Danny Wills signature models, Bob Cooper<br />

Blue Machine longboards, fun boards,<br />

lip hit shortboards, mini mals, Hawaiian<br />

guns, retro surfboards, kneeboards, balsa<br />

longboards and even Sail Skee sailboats...<br />

Michael Cundith shapes pretty much any<br />

type of watercraft.<br />

He's a master craftsman and an innovative<br />

watercraft designer who, after all these<br />

years, is still constantly refining and<br />

improving his designs. Yes, he shapes<br />

everything and anything and he excels at it.<br />

With over 50 years of shaping experience,<br />

Michael along with his good friend George<br />

Greenough, can certainly lay claim to<br />

being one of the pioneers of modern<br />

shortboards.<br />

In store, MC also stocks<br />

an extensive range of<br />

softboards and surf<br />

accessories including<br />

Carver Surfboard Racks<br />

and his wife Toshie’s very<br />

own range of surf hats<br />

called Protecsun - surf<br />

hats that stay on with a<br />

brim design that enables<br />

surfers to duck-dive with<br />

ease.<br />

For the friendly service<br />

and Michael's wealth<br />

of knowledge alone it's<br />

worth a visit, but it'll be<br />

hard to leave without a<br />

board under your arm.<br />

Byron Bay ... The precinct<br />

ABOVE: Wilderness Surfboards in the '60s<br />

His story dates back to when at only 12,<br />

riding an inflatable air mat he discovered<br />

a love for riding waves. At age 13 he had<br />

acquired a longboard and had started to<br />

cut the rails off, peeling back the glass to<br />

reshape his board so it was easier for him<br />

to carry. By the time he was 16 he was<br />

totally involved with surfboard design and<br />

has been shaping full time since.<br />

For the history buffs out there, he was<br />

the founder of the famous Wilderness<br />

Surfboards in Santa Barbara and made<br />

George Greenough Stubbies. In the 60's he<br />

was part of the second wave of surfers to<br />

be part of the Santa Barbara County Surf<br />

Club - surf custodians of the legendary<br />

Hollister Ranch. Later on he moved to<br />

Australia shaping boards with Bob Cooper<br />

in Coffs Harbour and worked for San<br />

Juan with Nat Young. Following that, he<br />

shaped boards with Kevin Platt in Noosa<br />

before returning to Byron to shape for Sky<br />

Surfboards in the very same factory he's<br />

in today, only nowadays the business is<br />

his own.<br />

Michael, with his wife Toshie and their two<br />

boys ….. together run Byron Bay Surfboards.<br />

It's a family business and it shows. They're<br />

lovely people who all live and breathe surfing,<br />

and will help you to no end in finding the right<br />

board. They stand behind their product because<br />

the quality of their craftsmanship is beyond<br />

question.<br />

Rest assured in the board you order from<br />

Michael Cundith. He thinks, dreams and lives<br />

surfboards. And he's also an innovative designer<br />

of surfboards fins.<br />

7<br />

3 Banksia Drive<br />

02 6685 8778<br />

www.mcsurf.com.au<br />

ABOVE: MC cutback<br />

on the original<br />

Stubbie and BELOW<br />

& RIGHT: Gene<br />

Cundith and the<br />

Stubbie of today<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

113


More<br />

talenot<br />

Byron Bay ... The precinct<br />

There are loads of other talented people<br />

working in the Byron Bay Arts & Industry<br />

Park, some doing their own thing and<br />

others working in the established<br />

factories whilst developing their craft<br />

behind the scene.<br />

Skerry Surfboards<br />

Travelling down the entire east coast<br />

of Australia we call in to some 400 odd<br />

surf shops distributing smorgasboarder.<br />

As you can imagine, we see a hell of a<br />

lot of boards. Lots and lots of boards…<br />

beautiful boards, amazing craftsmanship<br />

and a fair bit of crap as well.<br />

So it is a mighty big statement when we<br />

say this, Simon Skerry’s resin artwork is<br />

the best we have seen. His boards are<br />

works of art.<br />

They are so stunning, I don’t know<br />

whether to ride them or hang them on<br />

my wall. But in my deliberation, I find<br />

myself just staring at the board, the<br />

intricate details, the amount of skill it<br />

must take and the painstaking hours<br />

he must dedicate to create such truly<br />

unique surfboards. They just blow my<br />

mind. Nothing more needs to be said.<br />

Seeing is believing.<br />

www.skerrysurfboards.com<br />

North Coast Surfboards<br />

Exceptional boards, including various<br />

stock models by world renowned shaper<br />

Donald Takayama and Bear.<br />

The shapers, glassers and guys in the<br />

trenches that produce these boards are<br />

highly skilled and extremely talented,<br />

and by all reports, good blokes.<br />

Emery Surfboards<br />

With high-tech, modern boards, Al Emery<br />

is focused very much on clean sharp<br />

lines and neat white high-performance<br />

boards, but adds a bit of humour to the<br />

quiver with his retros: "Short Shorts?<br />

Moustache? These are the boards for<br />

you!" says the website.<br />

The label's very supportive of young<br />

local surfers, and has a team roster to<br />

prove it. www.emerysurfboards.com<br />

Guys Hastings<br />

He’s the map man. Freelance decorative<br />

painter, illustrator and pictorial map<br />

maker, Guy Hastings makes incredible<br />

surf maps of all descriptions. Combining<br />

science, aesthetics, and technique,<br />

his cartographic surf maps detail your<br />

favourite breaks.<br />

You can check out more of his work<br />

online at www.surfarimaps.com<br />

Doctor Ding<br />

The guys here excel in fixing all<br />

types of surfboard - from lightweight<br />

performance shortboards all the way<br />

to heavyweight tinted logs. Their work<br />

covers minor dings to major surgery,<br />

small fractures to full creases and snaps,<br />

in standard PU fibreglass and Epoxy.<br />

If you need your board quickly, they also<br />

offer 24-hour turnaround and pick up/<br />

delivery services to make things easy.<br />

Seven days a week they are there to<br />

get you back in the water as soon as<br />

humanly possible. They are truly good<br />

blokes as well with grand plans for their<br />

little business. Just keep an eye on what<br />

they have planned.<br />

www.drdingsurfboardrepairs.com or<br />

drop in at 2/68 Centennial Circuit.<br />

9<br />

11<br />

10<br />

Crosslink Traction<br />

ABOVE: Simon Skerry's<br />

finishing touches make great<br />

boards unbelievable.<br />

LEFT: Doctor Ding checks up on<br />

one of his patients<br />

BELOW LEFT: Any kind of<br />

traction, Crosslink can make it.<br />

BELOW: Map-king, Guy Hastings<br />

If you need to get a grip, these are the go-to people. Makers<br />

of traction pads, stand up paddleboard grips, malibu grips,<br />

longboard grips, retro tail pads, surf lifesaving pads and<br />

kneeboard grips all customised to suit, even with your<br />

personalised colour logos for your boardriders club or surf<br />

business. Crosslink will keep you firmly stuck to your board<br />

- and you'll have a hard time getting out of the workshop<br />

without a chat.<br />

It's all Australian made too, so you can feel good about<br />

supporting a local manufacturer. See more on their grips<br />

online at their freshly revamped website: www.deckgrips.com.<br />

With this much surfboard manufacturing talent all<br />

crammed into just a few blocks, make sure to take<br />

that left turn as you're heading into Byron, and pay<br />

these good people a visit. You might find yourself<br />

leaving with a few new toys.<br />

114 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


No big brands. No marketing hype.<br />

Just cool merchandise from the salt of the Australian surf community<br />

One website - heaps of<br />

shapers and surf shops shirts...<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

115


BOBSLED<br />

Length: 6’0” – 7’10”<br />

Width: 20 ½” – 22 ½”<br />

Thickness: 2 ½” – 3”<br />

Nose: 15” +/-<br />

Tail: 15” +/-<br />

Description: The Bobsled<br />

is rigged out with the<br />

most comfortable quad<br />

set-up available, fast and<br />

loose, with no slip! It has<br />

speed to burn and more<br />

thrust than a thruster.<br />

Features full boxy rails,<br />

concave through-out with<br />

softening bevels and<br />

substantial width.<br />

Construction: Custom PU<br />

foam and fibreglass or SLX<br />

EPS/Epoxy construction.<br />

Fins: FCS M3/M5 or M5/<br />

M7 Quads<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

The Bobsled allows<br />

comfortable turns on any<br />

part of the wave, snappy<br />

face pivots, pumps,<br />

weaves, and deep gouges.<br />

Paddles like a real bigguys-short-board,<br />

high<br />

and level.<br />

CARVER MICRO<br />

Length: 7’0” – 8’6”<br />

Width: 20” – 22 ¼”<br />

Thickness: 2 ½” – 3”<br />

Nose: 15” -/+<br />

Tall: 14 ½” -/+<br />

Description: The Carver<br />

is a McTavish staple that<br />

has been in production<br />

for many years. The latest<br />

update to the model sees<br />

the nose thinned out<br />

slightly, but the rest of the<br />

features remain the same<br />

coz if it ain’t broke....<br />

The Carver has a single<br />

concave nose to reduce<br />

weight, and a deep double<br />

concave tail for maximum<br />

drive and manouverability.<br />

Construction: Custom PU<br />

foam and fibreglass or SLX<br />

EPS/Epoxy construction.<br />

Fins: FCS PC-7 dualdensity<br />

foam-core<br />

thruster set<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

The board is loose and<br />

lively off the tail, and will<br />

handle waves from 2-10<br />

ft +. A must for any midlength<br />

fan!<br />

THE EGG<br />

Length: 6’0” – 6’6”<br />

Width: 20 ½” – 22”<br />

Thickness: 2 1/2” – 3”<br />

Nose: 16” -/+<br />

Tail: 17” -/+<br />

Description: The Egg<br />

has tons of volume, a flat<br />

tail rocker, and a 2+1 fin<br />

set-up that gives drive<br />

and manoeuvrability<br />

on any day under about<br />

6 ft. The full rails are<br />

comfortable, and won’t<br />

catch as you weave your<br />

way through a thick<br />

summer crowd!<br />

Construction: Custom PU<br />

foam and fibreglass.<br />

Fins: Centre finbox<br />

with 6” Australian-made<br />

fibreglass McTavish<br />

fin and FCS GX-Q dualdensity<br />

foam-core side<br />

fins.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

The classic double-ender<br />

fun machine! The Egg is a<br />

flat, stubbie little number,<br />

capable of bringing<br />

a smile to your face<br />

even when its 2 ft and<br />

onshore. One to add to<br />

the small-day quiver.<br />

TWINFISH<br />

Length: 5’10” – 6’6”<br />

Width: 21” – 22”<br />

Thickness: 2 5 /8” – 3”<br />

Nose: 17” -/+<br />

Tall: 16 ½” -/+<br />

Description: Revised<br />

for <strong>2011</strong> the Twinfish is<br />

now even more authentic<br />

to its roots. The updated<br />

board features a flatter<br />

entry rocker, fuller nose<br />

template and lower rails.<br />

The flat entry rocker<br />

makes this board easy to<br />

paddle in, and fast down<br />

the line, especially on the<br />

smaller days.<br />

Construction: Custom PU<br />

foam and fibreglass.<br />

Fins: Australian made<br />

Glass-on keel fins or FCS<br />

removable keels<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

A great small-wave<br />

cruiser, with an old-skool<br />

feel.<br />

SCOOTER<br />

Length: 5’10” – 6’6”<br />

Width: 20” – 22”<br />

Thickness: 2 ½” – 3 1 /8”<br />

Nose: - 17” -/+<br />

Tail: - 16 ½” -/+<br />

Description: From the<br />

depths of the masters<br />

mind comes the Scooter.<br />

The Scooter is highvolume,<br />

has low sharp<br />

rails, and a wide tail<br />

template to create drive<br />

from nothing.<br />

Construction: Custom PU<br />

foam and fibreglass.<br />

Fins: Centre finbox with<br />

9” Australian-made<br />

fibreglass McTavish fin or<br />

FCS MR-TX Quad Set in<br />

Glassflex.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

A flat little pocket-rocket<br />

that’ll turn even the<br />

junkiest conditions into a<br />

whole lotta fun. The battail<br />

and quad fin set-up<br />

top off one of the most fun<br />

surfboards in our range.<br />

Perfect for the on-shore<br />

east-coast summer days!<br />

Founded by surf industry pioneer Bob McTavish, McTavish Surfboards have been in production non-stop since 1962.<br />

116 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SUMO<br />

Length: 6’2” – 7’6”<br />

Width: 21” – 23”<br />

Thickness: 2 ½” – 3 1 /8”<br />

Nose: 18” -/+<br />

Tail: 14 ½” -/+<br />

Description: The all-new<br />

Sumo model is a highvolume<br />

mid-length with<br />

speed to burn. The wide<br />

point is way forward, and<br />

the tail is pulled into a<br />

tight pin, around the 14”<br />

mark.<br />

Construction: Custom PU<br />

foam and fibreglass.<br />

Fins: Centre finbox with<br />

6” Australian-made<br />

fibreglass McTavish<br />

fin and FCS GX-Q dualdensity<br />

foam-core side<br />

fins. Can also be ridden as<br />

a single fin if preferred.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

With all the volume under<br />

your chest the board is<br />

easy to paddle, and once<br />

you’re up and riding that<br />

narrow tail really comes<br />

into play.<br />

THE NEO<br />

Length: 9’4” – 10’1”<br />

Width: 22 ½” – 23 ¼”<br />

Thickness: 2 ¾” – 3 ¼”<br />

Nose: 17 ½” -/+<br />

Tail: 14 ½” -/+<br />

Description: The bottomshape<br />

is simple, with<br />

a subtle nose concave,<br />

and very slightly rolled<br />

tail. The hatchet creates<br />

the drag needed for long<br />

noserides, but once you’re<br />

on the tail it comes around<br />

nice and smooth.<br />

Construction: Custom PU<br />

foam and fibreglass.<br />

Fins: Centre finbox with<br />

10.5” Australian-made<br />

fibreglass McTavish<br />

hatchet fin<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Ideal for waves up to<br />

3-4ft, for nose-riding, The<br />

NEO is an all-new Cali<br />

inspired log. This board<br />

is the pinnacle of quality<br />

laminating, with resin art,<br />

tinted fabric stripes and<br />

patches, and beautiful<br />

pinline work. pivoting<br />

off the tail and speedtrimming<br />

down the line.<br />

THE UFO<br />

Length: 9’0” – 9’2”<br />

Width: 22” – 22 ¾”<br />

Thickness: 2 ¾” – 2 7 /8”<br />

Nose: 17” -/+<br />

Tall: 14 “ -/+<br />

Description: The best<br />

of our F4 progressive<br />

longboard fused with<br />

the rocker profile of our<br />

famous Original model.<br />

The F4’s elegant lines<br />

deliver the speed, the<br />

Original’s rocker supplies<br />

the vertical component.<br />

This is a 6” nose rocker,<br />

and a 4” tail rocker,<br />

dropped in late (being<br />

fairly abrupt). That leaves<br />

the rocker still quite stiff<br />

in the engine room under<br />

your feet, resulting in<br />

plenty of thrust despite<br />

the tail rocker. The tailkick<br />

simply allows you to<br />

jam vertical, with no loss<br />

of speed overall.<br />

Construction: Custom PU<br />

foam and fibreglass or SLX<br />

EPS/Epoxy construction.<br />

Fins: Centre finbox<br />

with 6” Australian-made<br />

fibreglass McTavish<br />

fin and FCS GX-Q dualdensity<br />

foam-core side<br />

fins<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

The perfect combo!<br />

THE UF8<br />

Length: 7’6” – 8’6”<br />

Width: 21 ½” – 22 ¾”<br />

Thickness: 2 ¾” – 3 1 /8”<br />

Nose: 18” -/+<br />

Tail: 14 ½” -/+<br />

Description: The UF8<br />

has a pulled in pointed<br />

nose, and a progressive<br />

rocker profile with a<br />

flipped nose and tail. The<br />

bottom-shape features<br />

a slight concave in the<br />

nose, running into a<br />

double in the tail for a<br />

lively feel.<br />

Construction: Custom PU<br />

foam and fibreglass.<br />

Fins: Centre finbox<br />

with 6” Australian-made<br />

fibreglass McTavish<br />

fin and FCS GX-Q dualdensity<br />

foam-core side<br />

fins.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

The UF8 is an 8 foot<br />

version of our super<br />

popular UFO model. The<br />

template shrinks down<br />

perfectly to give a very<br />

high performance midlength<br />

board, which really<br />

excels in punchy beach<br />

and reef break conditions,<br />

from 3 ft up.<br />

CARVER FISH<br />

Length: 6’8” – 7’8”<br />

Width: 19” – 22”<br />

Thickness: 2 5 /8” – 3”<br />

Nose: 14 ½” -/+<br />

Tall: 15 ½” -/+<br />

Description: Updated<br />

for <strong>2011</strong> the Carver Fish is<br />

now a more focused ‘bigguys-shortboard’<br />

and has<br />

a pulled in nose template,<br />

a quad fin set-up, and<br />

more lift in the nose.<br />

Construction: Custom PU<br />

foam and fibreglass.<br />

Fins: FCS M3/M5 or M5/<br />

M7 Quads or standard<br />

PC-7 thruster also<br />

available upon request.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

The Carver Fish is an<br />

awesome performer. Best<br />

suited to big, clean days,<br />

when you have an open<br />

face to carve. A great<br />

travel board for that trip<br />

to Indo, or bigger days on<br />

your local outside bank.<br />

Custom order online or visit the showroom at 91 Centennial Circuit, Byron Bay NSW. Phone: 02 6685 6736 Email: sales@mctavish.com.au www.mctavish.com.au<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

117


“Geoff McCoy Surfboards are<br />

like no other on the planet.<br />

Right across our range we<br />

create boards to surf above the<br />

water flow therefore offering<br />

a feel and a surfing experience<br />

like no other board you can buy.<br />

“Our designs are based on<br />

the idea of harmonising with<br />

the water flow of the wave by<br />

utilising area in plan shape,<br />

which combined with rocker<br />

modifications give continual<br />

flow through short or long arc<br />

surfing on the wave face for all<br />

surfing abilities.<br />

“Throughout our range you will<br />

find these characteristics hold<br />

true, so select a design suitable<br />

to your needs.<br />

Other McCoy designs<br />

available<br />

Big Pot Belly, Nose Rider,<br />

Stumpy, Pot Belly, Splinter and<br />

Big Guy Nugget<br />

Retro boards include the Twin<br />

Fin, Double Ender, Dream Time<br />

and Old F.D.<br />

There’s also a range of guns<br />

including Mini Gun, Semi Gun,<br />

Serious Guns and Tow boards.<br />

Most designs can be varied using<br />

different fin configurations<br />

including single, twin and three<br />

fins, but no quads. All multi-fin<br />

designs only have glassed on<br />

fibreglass fins, NO plastic at all.<br />

Now custom building a<br />

Geoff McCoy designed retro<br />

range in wood and fibreglass<br />

construction. “These are very<br />

special, as they represent my<br />

older concepts that, when<br />

combined with wood, are<br />

strikingly impressive.”<br />

For info, contact Geoff direct.<br />

McCOY SURFBOARDS<br />

10 Acacia Street Byron<br />

Bay, NSW 2481<br />

Ph: 02 6685 3227<br />

mccoysurfboards.com<br />

ASTRON ZOT<br />

Dimensions: From<br />

5’0”-7’1” x 21”-22” x 2¾”-3¼”<br />

Pictured board:<br />

5’6”x 21½”x 18”x 15½”x 3”<br />

Suits: surfers up to 100kg<br />

Description: Completely<br />

unique in all aspects.<br />

The plan shape is a<br />

beautifully balanced<br />

ellipse, which blends<br />

with the thickness<br />

balance, combining with<br />

perfect rocker curves,<br />

flowing into a loaded<br />

dome located under the<br />

back foot for maximum<br />

control.<br />

Softened bottom rail,<br />

with a 60-40 balance<br />

which runs right through<br />

the board into the tail<br />

area for greater holding<br />

qualities on hollow<br />

waves, eliminating the<br />

need to add extra fins.<br />

Fins: McCoy Gull Wing<br />

110% Original<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

This is the smallest we<br />

make in the AZot range,<br />

extremely lively little<br />

performer, very reactive<br />

in a very wide range<br />

of wave conditions.As<br />

all nugget designs, it<br />

excels in hollow powerful<br />

waves.<br />

LAZOR ZAP<br />

Dimensions: From 5’-6’6”<br />

Pictured board:<br />

5’11” x 20 ¼” x 16 ½” x 3”<br />

Wide range available<br />

Suits: surfers up to 95kg<br />

Description: Pulled<br />

nose of the original<br />

design allowed the<br />

board to elevate very<br />

quickly, due to reduced<br />

length of rail used when<br />

turning. This allowed for<br />

more manouvers to be<br />

performed while standing<br />

in a fixed position on the<br />

wide, thick supportive<br />

tail, which generates<br />

greater pressure and<br />

easier reaction. It was<br />

easier to paddle, had<br />

quicker reaction from<br />

the extra volume, less<br />

resistance in turns, and<br />

gave the ability to surf<br />

at a higherspeed. Best<br />

suited for quick, short arc,<br />

up-tempo surfing.<br />

Fins: Original Single Fin<br />

or with 3 fin setup.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

If you are looking for a<br />

great performing board<br />

that also represents the<br />

pinnacle of design in the<br />

Golden Era, have a look at<br />

the <strong>2011</strong> Lazor Zap. You<br />

could say that they are<br />

everything the modern<br />

shortboard should be.<br />

PHOTO: Neil Cameron at Mentawai. 6’ 1” All Round Nugget 3-fin<br />

ALL ROUND<br />

NUGGET<br />

Dimensions: From 6’0”-7’0”<br />

Pictured board:<br />

6’2” x 20” x 2 7 /8”x 17” tail<br />

Wide range available<br />

Suits: surfers up to 100kg<br />

Description: The design<br />

is a subtle blending of<br />

curves, incorporating the<br />

Loaded Dome bottom<br />

contours - a blend of<br />

curves throughout the<br />

bottom of the board. The<br />

contours assist the board<br />

to perform manoeuvres<br />

by taking the emphasis<br />

off the surfer having to<br />

control and guide the<br />

board, giving more time<br />

for the actual manoeuvre.<br />

Fins: The more you use<br />

the more stable and<br />

slower reacting the board<br />

becomes. I offer a range<br />

of fin styles with 1, 2 or 3<br />

fin combinations.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Wider, thicker and shorter.<br />

With more volume and<br />

bouyancy than you’ve had<br />

before, it’s easy to paddle<br />

easy to control - with<br />

more speed than you’ve<br />

had in years. And when it<br />

starts to barrel... You’ll be<br />

laughing!<br />

THE MALIBU<br />

ALL ROUNDER<br />

Dimensions: From 9’0”-9’6”<br />

Pictured board:<br />

9’3” x 22½” x 15” x 18”<br />

x 3¼”<br />

Wide range available<br />

Suits: surfers up to 120kg<br />

Description: A classic<br />

design, not as full in the<br />

nose area as the Nose<br />

Rider. This allows the<br />

board to turn easier,<br />

producing better flow<br />

and glide.<br />

Fins: I use my Gull Wing<br />

designs as all my Malibu’s<br />

come in only single fin<br />

with a 10” box for fin<br />

movement and removal.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

For longboarders who<br />

like to surf loose and<br />

fast. Good turning and<br />

manoeuverability, easy<br />

paddling and stability.<br />

The great all round family<br />

board.<br />

118 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

FLY’N FISH<br />

Shaper:<br />

Bruno “The Buzz” Buzzolan<br />

Length: 5’0” to 8’0”<br />

Width: 18” to 22”<br />

Thickness: 2” to 3”<br />

Ideal conditions: ½ - 4ft.<br />

Suits: A fast, loose wave<br />

hog in all conditions and<br />

for all surfers.<br />

Description: Single to<br />

double concave with vee<br />

out the tail makes this<br />

very fast and responsive.<br />

Swallow tail.<br />

Construction:<br />

Polyster Resin and Burford<br />

PU Blank<br />

Fins: FCS Tris, Quad or 5<br />

fin setup<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Our most popular model.<br />

A hybrid to complement<br />

your standard short board.<br />

Still proudly<br />

made by people,<br />

not machines<br />

DUMPLING<br />

Shaper:<br />

Bruno “The Buzz” Buzzolan<br />

Length: 5’4” to 6’0”<br />

Width: 19” to 20”<br />

Thickness: 2’¼” to 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal conditions: ½ - 4ft.<br />

Ability level:<br />

Beginner to Pro<br />

Description: 3-4 inches<br />

shorter and ¾ inch wider<br />

than the norm. Round or<br />

round square tail. Deep<br />

single to double concave<br />

with exit tail vee<br />

Construction:<br />

Polyster Resin and Burford<br />

PU Blank<br />

Fins: FCS Tris, Quad or 5<br />

plug setup<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

This model shines in<br />

substandard surf.<br />

HYBRID<br />

Shaper:<br />

Robert “Gypo” Fenech<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’2” x 20 ¾” x 2 5 /8”<br />

Description: A midrange<br />

combination<br />

of resistance and<br />

release, combined<br />

with displacement and<br />

hydrodynamics to provide<br />

you with a futuristic<br />

surfboard. Fuller outline<br />

and increased volume<br />

with a balanced domed<br />

hull shape.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

blanks, 4oz bottom, 6oz<br />

top plus 4oz tail patch on<br />

deck, pro sand finish<br />

Fins: FCS or set fins<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

The modern high<br />

performance pro<br />

surfboard has been<br />

designed around a rail<br />

to rail pump action, to<br />

assist pro surfers to<br />

rip low energy surf,<br />

impress judges and their<br />

sponsors. It’s mini-gun<br />

outline and low volume<br />

work well in big surf, ride<br />

tight in the power and<br />

easy to duck dive. Hybrid<br />

is a performance option<br />

and is worth a try – you<br />

will be impressed.<br />

HYBRID<br />

Shaper:<br />

Robert “Gypo” Fenech<br />

Dimensions:<br />

7’ x 22” x 3”<br />

Description: All rounder<br />

up to 6 ft big guy board.<br />

Superior performance<br />

to mini-mal or big fish.<br />

Volume and area for<br />

support, soft curves and<br />

hydrodynamics to harness<br />

the wave’s energy<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

blanks, PSM high quality<br />

glassing and finish<br />

Fins: FCS or set fins<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

A downsized version<br />

of the McCoy energy<br />

theory, the brain-child<br />

and life’s work of Geoff<br />

McCoy. I am currently<br />

learning the finer details<br />

from Geoff and have put<br />

together a Hybrid series<br />

from what I understand.<br />

If you have trouble with<br />

the bulk and mass of a<br />

real McCoy, Hybrid will<br />

help you understand that<br />

a wider, thicker board<br />

with a balanced dome<br />

hull performs and feels<br />

fantastic.<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

ELECTRIFYING<br />

HOT TUNA FISH<br />

Shaper:<br />

Bruno “The Buzz” Buzzolan<br />

Artwork: Alonzo Punker<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’9” X 19 ½” X 2 3 /8”<br />

Ability level:<br />

Beginner to Pro<br />

Description: With<br />

a rounded square or<br />

swallow tail, this board<br />

features a deep single<br />

into double concave with<br />

exit vee.<br />

Construction:<br />

Polyster Resin and Burford<br />

PU Blank<br />

Fins: FCS. Available<br />

with 5 sets of fins plugs<br />

to further enhance the<br />

board’s versatility.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Snappy high speed<br />

performance in this small<br />

wave specialist.<br />

Celebrating<br />

4<br />

years<br />

TOWN & COUNTRY SURFBOARDS<br />

10 Acacia Street, Byron Bay NSW Phone: 02 6685 7485 Email: prosurfdesigns@tcsurf.com.au www.tcsurf.com.au<br />

119


(mention<br />

smorgasboarder<br />

to get a free<br />

leggie worth<br />

$45 with a<br />

new Ron Wade<br />

board order)<br />

THE BULL<br />

THE ROSIE<br />

D’ORSO HIGHLINER<br />

MOD LOG<br />

PERFORMER<br />

V-FLEX<br />

Shaper: Ron Wade<br />

Specs: 9’1” x 22 ½” x 2 7 /8”<br />

Ideal conditions: Classic<br />

noserider which performs<br />

well between 1-6ft.<br />

Description: Lower rocker<br />

to enable less push, a trim<br />

section to enable maximum<br />

speed through to a slight tail<br />

lift incorporating a subtle<br />

“V” for manoeuvrability.<br />

Construction: The<br />

board illustrated is made<br />

of PU foam, includes a<br />

single plywood stringer, 2<br />

layers of 6oz fibreglass<br />

on the deck and 1 on the<br />

bottom. Hand shaped 9”<br />

fibreglass fin + fin box<br />

with side fins, polished<br />

finish with colour.<br />

Fins: Fibreglass Centre<br />

fin with side fins included<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

If you’re thinking of<br />

updating to a new<br />

longboard it would be<br />

my pleasure to be able<br />

to answer your questions<br />

and guide you to make<br />

the correct decision.<br />

Shaper: Thomas Bexon<br />

Dimensions:<br />

9’4” x 22 3 /8” x 2 ½”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Waist high plus<br />

Ability level:<br />

Intermediate to advanced,<br />

with a sense of trim.<br />

Description: a down the<br />

line trim machine, built<br />

for going fast, smooth<br />

carving surfing on a<br />

drawn out rail line.<br />

Construction: ¼ inch<br />

cedar stringer, 8 ounce<br />

bottom double 8 ounce<br />

deck, gloss and polish.<br />

Fins: Single, Greenoughstyle<br />

flex fin<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Call me.<br />

Shaper: Jesse Watson<br />

Dimensions:<br />

9’6” x 23” x 3”<br />

Ideal conditions: Up to<br />

head high sliders<br />

Suits: Hepcats to kooks,<br />

kicks, flicks and hanging heels.<br />

Description: A modern<br />

pig/involvement style<br />

sled, but with modernised<br />

rockers and foils for the<br />

logger who wants to<br />

noseglide and whipturn<br />

like it aint no thang.<br />

Construction: 6/4oz deck<br />

+ 6/4oz bottom gloss and<br />

polish, full wrap paint<br />

panels and an old skool<br />

glass leash loop - a nice<br />

mix of the old and new.<br />

Fins: Matching custom<br />

glass on Stage IV The<br />

Hook template fin<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

A modern sled for the<br />

discerning kook. Traditional<br />

in looks - but a real hotrod<br />

under your feet. Long rides<br />

on the grill and crazy fast<br />

cutbacks. My number 1 log.<br />

Shaper: Mark Plater or<br />

Matt Crisp<br />

Dimensions:<br />

9’1” x 22 ½” x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal: For the plank<br />

sessions.<br />

Suits: Fun peelers ‘n<br />

reelers down the local.<br />

Description: The San<br />

Juan turqouise mal<br />

Performer really performs.<br />

Get up on the nose or just<br />

chill and enjoy!<br />

Construction: PU foam,<br />

strong glass job and primo<br />

paint ‘n polish.<br />

Fins: Fin box and FCS<br />

set up.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Horny yet?<br />

Shaper: Peter White<br />

Typical: 9’5” x 22 ¾” x 3”<br />

Conditions: Head high or<br />

below. Ideally point breaks<br />

but surprisingly versatile on<br />

a more mellow beachies.<br />

Suits: The soul-kats<br />

among you - those wishing<br />

to emulate Russell Hughes,<br />

Bobby Brown, Midget and<br />

Kev-The-Head.<br />

Description: Features<br />

mid-60s elements: a softer,<br />

pinched rail, single fin with<br />

rolled bottom and gentle<br />

vee through tail. Atypical<br />

stringer configuration - 2”<br />

apart in tail, tapering to<br />

their apex 2’ short of nose.<br />

This creates added<br />

stiffness in tail to give<br />

solid pivot and lift in the<br />

tip for smooth trim, but<br />

with forward weight shift,<br />

nose flexes down for more<br />

planing area and speed,<br />

and straightens rail for<br />

enhanced hold.<br />

Construction: PU Foam,<br />

6mm vee stringer. 7.5oz and<br />

8oz on deck with an 8oz<br />

deck patch, 8oz bottom.<br />

Fins: Fixed 10” hatchet /<br />

pivot fin.<br />

Shaper comment: The<br />

V-Flex spins the traditional<br />

on its head.<br />

RON WADE SURF<br />

DESIGNS AUSTRALIA<br />

Mona Vale showroom,<br />

open 9-4pm Sat or call me.<br />

Ph: 02 9979 7<strong>07</strong>1<br />

Mob: 0410 443 776<br />

sales@ronwadesurfboards.com.au<br />

ronwadesurfboards.com.au<br />

THOMAS SURFBOARDS<br />

PO Box 234<br />

Maroochydore Qld 4558<br />

Ph: 0412 131 491<br />

thomas_bexon@hotmail.com<br />

thomassurfboards.com<br />

black apache surfboards<br />

BLACK APACHE<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0410 419 791<br />

blackapachesurfboards@live.com.au<br />

blackapachesurfboards.com.au<br />

MADDOG SURF CENTRE<br />

Ph: 02 6685 6022<br />

Ewingsdale Road<br />

Byron Bay 2481<br />

www.maddog.com.au<br />

CLASSIC MALIBU<br />

Cnr Gibson & Eumundi Rd<br />

Noosaville, QLD 4566<br />

Ph: <strong>07</strong> 5474 3122<br />

info@classicmalibu.com<br />

www.classicmalibu.com<br />

120 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

PROLOGUE X<br />

PERFORMER<br />

MICK CARABINE<br />

SIGNATURE MODEL<br />

TRADITIONAL<br />

LONGBOARD<br />

GODZILLA<br />

Shaper: Scott Newman<br />

Specs: 9’1’’x 22 ¼’’ x 2 ½’’<br />

Waves: Thrives on steep<br />

shoulder high waves.<br />

Suits: The more<br />

experienced longboarder.<br />

Description: Super high<br />

performance longboard,<br />

single concave under nose<br />

into rolled V through tail.<br />

Flatter deck and nose rocker<br />

but still kick in tail rocker.<br />

Narrow nose, rounded pin<br />

tail with low rails.<br />

Construction: South<br />

Coast Mega Lite blank<br />

with 6ply stringer, 6+4oz<br />

deck, 4oz bottom,carbon<br />

strips,carbon tail patches.<br />

Fins: 5 way, quad with box<br />

Shaper comment: A<br />

rocket ship - our most high<br />

performance longboard.<br />

With its lightweight<br />

foam/glassing and the<br />

carbon strip placement<br />

creates strength through<br />

the middle but gives flex in<br />

the tail for whippier, faster<br />

turns and more flex in the<br />

nose for noseriding.<br />

Shaper: Mark Riley<br />

Length:9’0’’ - 9’4’’<br />

Width: 22 1/4’’ - 23’<br />

Thickness: 2 1/2’’ - 3’’’<br />

Ideal conditions: ½ - 5 ft<br />

Ability: Intermediate<br />

Description: Recycled<br />

EPS foam core and<br />

2-3mm balsawood skin,<br />

weighing only 7-8 kg.<br />

Features triple stringer,<br />

30mm apart, a Vee<br />

bottom with a rounded<br />

square tail. The rails are<br />

70/30 on the nose, 80/20<br />

in the centre and 90/10 in<br />

the tail.<br />

Construction: Balsa with<br />

EPS foam core<br />

Fins: Single box fin and<br />

two smaller stabiliser fins.<br />

Shaper comment: The<br />

Performer combines<br />

the best of both worlds,<br />

designed and shaped for<br />

today’s high performance<br />

longboarding.<br />

Riley surfboards are<br />

made in Australia, have<br />

a 12-month warranty<br />

and are Micro-tagged<br />

to prevent theft. Custom<br />

orders are welcome.<br />

Shaper: Terry Bishop<br />

(Snake)<br />

Dimensions:<br />

9’6’ x 22 ½” x 3”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Up to head-high, long,<br />

rolling point breaks.<br />

Suits: Traditional surfer or<br />

collector<br />

Description: Traditional<br />

longboard shape,<br />

profiled off an original<br />

60’s template. Features<br />

50/50 rail and not a lot<br />

of rocker. The board has<br />

Mick Carabine’s signature<br />

under the glass. Mick’s<br />

semi-retired now, so<br />

there won’t be too many<br />

more of these made.<br />

Construction: PU foam<br />

and polyester resin, Volan<br />

glass, done by Mick<br />

Carabine himself. Option of<br />

single or triple stringer.<br />

Fins: Glass-in or fin box,<br />

Hatchet or D fins are best.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Snake doesn’t say much.<br />

Shaper: Peter Sheely<br />

Specs: 9’8” x 23 ½” x 3 ¼ ”<br />

Ideal: Point breaks<br />

Suits: Everyone who<br />

wants to get into a<br />

traditional longboard<br />

Description: Traditional<br />

longboard with the<br />

features of the 60’s, with<br />

roll bottom, 50/50 rails,<br />

hippy tail, and excellent<br />

nose riding qualities.<br />

Construction: Choice<br />

of stringers, one, two<br />

or three, foam inserts,<br />

colours, tints, pigment,<br />

or sprays. Volane 8 or 10<br />

ozs or 6ozs normal glass -<br />

you choose!<br />

Fins: 10 ½” to 12” single<br />

fin, set in or fin box. Also<br />

a D-Fin set in the board or<br />

in the fin box.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Traditional 60’s style<br />

board developed with<br />

today’s technology.<br />

Shaper: Ron Wade<br />

Specs: 9’1” x 22 ½” x 2 7 /8”<br />

Ideal conditions: High<br />

performance longboard<br />

designed for 3 -10 ft.<br />

Description: Originally<br />

designed for team member<br />

Tim Hutton,who wanted a<br />

fast longboard which turned<br />

smoothly and that he could<br />

slash in all conditions.<br />

Similar rocker to “The Bull”<br />

except for a dual concave<br />

for more power.<br />

Comment: Call and<br />

discuss a board design to<br />

suit your surfing.<br />

Tim Hutton<br />

scores a perfect<br />

10 barrel!<br />

SLS SURFBOARDS<br />

2/57 George St,<br />

Moffat Beach, QLD 4551<br />

Ph: Scott 0424 314 183<br />

Luke 0401 350 992<br />

slssurfboards.com.au<br />

RILEY SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0412 376 464<br />

E: mark@riley.com.au<br />

balsasurfboardsriley.com.au<br />

CARABINE SURFBOARDS<br />

36 Finders Street<br />

Wollongong, NSW<br />

Ph/Fax: 02 4229 9462<br />

carabinesurfboards.com.au<br />

PETER SHEELY<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 02 4957 3161<br />

Mob: 0417 264 739<br />

peter@sheelysurfboards.com<br />

sheelysurfboards.com<br />

RON WADE SURF<br />

DESIGNS AUSTRALIA<br />

Mona Vale showroom,<br />

open 9-4pm Sat or call me.<br />

Ph: 02 9979 7<strong>07</strong>1<br />

Mob: 0410 443 776<br />

sales@ronwadesurfboards.com.au<br />

ronwadesurfboards.com.au<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

121


THE BIG BOY<br />

Shaper: Tony Dempsey:<br />

one of the last handshapers!<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’10” x 21” x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal: 1-5ft points<br />

and small beachies<br />

Suits: Big guys who don’t<br />

want to hop on a mini mal<br />

and lose the performance<br />

of a short board.<br />

Ability: Beginner to<br />

advanced. Being custommade,<br />

Tony will tailor<br />

volume to suit ability.<br />

Description: First<br />

designed in the early 90’s<br />

when big guys only had<br />

mini mals to surf on.Tony<br />

introduced this design to<br />

free up and let bigger boys<br />

enjoy their surfing without<br />

those restrictions.<br />

Construction: PU foam<br />

Fins: Quads plus 1<br />

Shaper comment: They<br />

said it couldn’t be done - a<br />

big guy’s board to give<br />

shortboard performance.<br />

Bullsh*t! On one of these<br />

you will be smilin’ while<br />

you’re stylin’.<br />

NEW AGE SINGLE FIN<br />

Shaper: Brett Munro<br />

Specs: 7’0” x 21” x 2 ½”<br />

Ideal: Small to overhead,<br />

clean beach or reef/point<br />

breaks.<br />

Description:<br />

Single concave theory, a<br />

new age single fin.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

foam, quality lamination<br />

and finishing with carbon<br />

fibre rods.<br />

Fins: Handmade retro box<br />

glass fin with tip flex<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Classic single fin soul<br />

with long point waves<br />

in mind. Explore the<br />

potential.<br />

RETRO REVIVAL<br />

Shaper: Ben Hearn<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’0”x 20 ½” x 2 5 /8”<br />

Ideal conditions: 1 - 4ft.<br />

Ability level: for all to ride<br />

Description: Nice, flat<br />

rocker and full nose<br />

for easy paddling, flat<br />

bottom to slight v for<br />

increased speed through<br />

flat sections. Double flyer<br />

through to round tail, as<br />

a twin fin for a great mix<br />

of looseness, response<br />

and drive. Great fun with<br />

suprising performance in<br />

all conditions.<br />

Construction: Hand shaped,<br />

Polyester construction<br />

standard glassing, Protec<br />

or full gloss and buff.<br />

Fins: Handmade glass<br />

twin fins. Single fin box or<br />

quad FCS.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

A must for any surfer’s<br />

quiver. Ultimate motivation<br />

for those not so good days.<br />

Old school inspiration with<br />

a new school twist.<br />

.<br />

SINGLE FIN<br />

Shaper: Paul Carson<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’9” x 20 ½” x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal for: Anything.<br />

Really at home on points.<br />

Suits: Anyone<br />

Description: Single flyer<br />

swallowtail with a full<br />

length concave to double<br />

concave to vee in tail.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

blank with resin colours<br />

top and bottom<br />

Fins: Handmade set<br />

single and semi-keel side<br />

fins in plugs.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

A great single fin with the<br />

advantage of a thruster<br />

feel when the side fins<br />

are in. Flyer allows extra<br />

width at side fins.<br />

Give me one<br />

good resin...<br />

WINKI WALL BREAKER<br />

Shaper: Duncan Eadie<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’ 7” x 19 ½” x 2 ½ “<br />

Ideal: Very versatile and<br />

can be used in smaller<br />

surf but best suited to long<br />

point break up to 6’ plus.<br />

Description: Single fin<br />

with bonzer side fins,<br />

single into double concave<br />

through tail. Hybrid design<br />

which gives you the drive<br />

and speed of a single fin<br />

but still maneuverable.<br />

Construction: Glassed<br />

like surfboards used to be<br />

and finished in gloss resin.<br />

It will probably outlast you.<br />

Fins: Either timber fins for<br />

more spring out of turns or<br />

fiberglass.<br />

Shaper comment: This is<br />

a fantastic all round board<br />

which works well in just<br />

about everything. Paddles<br />

like the wind. Drives like<br />

a Porsche. Loves long<br />

wall sections. Designed<br />

for Winki Pop but I have<br />

surfed it everywhere and<br />

it’s a pleasure to have it<br />

as my quiver killer.<br />

UNDERGROUND SURF<br />

3/31 McLean St,<br />

Coolangatta, QLD 4225<br />

Ph: <strong>07</strong> 5599 1040<br />

kirra@undergroundsurf.com.au<br />

undergroundsurf.com.au<br />

MUNRO HANDCRAFTED<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

2/29 Acacia Street<br />

Byron Bay NSW 2481<br />

Ph: 02 6685 6211<br />

info@munrosurfboards.com.au<br />

munrosurfboards.com.au<br />

SKIPP SURFBOARDS<br />

FACTORY SHOWROOM<br />

24 Flinders St<br />

North Wollongong, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 4228 8878<br />

CITY SURF CENTRE<br />

231 Crown Street<br />

Wollongong City, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 4229 1202<br />

E: factory@skippsurfboards.com.au<br />

skippsurfboards.com.au<br />

THE FACTORY<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

CALOUNDRA<br />

17 Allen Street<br />

Caloundra QLD 4551<br />

Ph: <strong>07</strong> 5492 5838<br />

paul@thefactorysurfboards.com.au<br />

thefactorysurfboards.com.au<br />

SOUTHERN SOUL<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0417 340 357<br />

southernsoul@netspace.net.au<br />

southernsoulsurfboards.com.au<br />

122 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

THE BAD BOY<br />

BIG BOYS SHORTBOARD<br />

DRAFT<br />

8’ LONGBOARD<br />

ALLROUNDER<br />

Shaper: Doug Rogers<br />

Dimensions:<br />

8’1” x 21 ½” x 3”<br />

Ideal: Solid waves, 4-6ft<br />

Ability level:<br />

Novice to Intermediate<br />

Description: This board<br />

is a big guy’s dream. It has<br />

a heap of float and paddle<br />

power. It features a single<br />

into double concave for<br />

geting in early on those<br />

nice, big, solid days.<br />

Construction: PU core<br />

6oz bottom, 10oz deck.<br />

Fins: Thruster<br />

Shaper comment: Doug<br />

Rogers loves shaping<br />

these performance<br />

chargers. Handshaped<br />

with love and perfection,<br />

the clean lines refined<br />

edges are a must for the<br />

love of surfing real waves.<br />

Shaper: Brett Munro<br />

Specs: 7’4” x 21 ½” x 2 ½”<br />

Ideal: Small to overhead,<br />

clean beach or reef/point<br />

breaks.<br />

Description:<br />

Single to double concave.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

foam, quality lamination<br />

and finishing with carbon<br />

fibre rods.<br />

Fins: Tri-fin ceramic<br />

Speeedfins<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Delivers speed and<br />

security for the senior<br />

warrior who will not pull<br />

back on the bigger days.<br />

The groms will hate you.<br />

Shaper: Leighton Clark<br />

Specs: 7’6”x 21 ¾”x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal conditions: Great<br />

board to get out at your<br />

local...and rips on small<br />

average surf<br />

Suits: All family<br />

members... girl friend...<br />

summer fun... beginners...<br />

lazy bastards...<br />

Construction: Made<br />

from premium materials.<br />

Burford PU foam, Silmar<br />

resins, Aerialite glass, ....<br />

also available in XPS, EPS,<br />

and epoxy laminates. Our<br />

glassing guy, Mick, is one<br />

of the most experienced<br />

in the industry [clocking<br />

over 25,000 boards over 40<br />

years. We can do custom<br />

artwork or digital graphics.<br />

Fins: Shapers fins and<br />

plugs.<br />

Sprays: No problemo<br />

customs, Pics, flowers,<br />

digital graphics, anything..<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

WE LISTEN, WE TALK<br />

and WE CREATE a<br />

board to suit your<br />

requirements. Customs<br />

are our speciality. Love<br />

to hear about what you<br />

are riding, and what you<br />

want to ride.<br />

Shaper: Mark Rabbidge<br />

Dimensions:<br />

8’ x 21” x 2 ¾”<br />

Suits: Custom tailored to<br />

suit the individual<br />

Description: Double<br />

ender well balanced<br />

board. Trim concave<br />

through middle, roll vee<br />

through the tail.<br />

Construction: Dion foam<br />

blanks. I’ve been dealing<br />

with them for 45 years<br />

and for good reason.<br />

Fins: 3 fin set up.<br />

Shaper comment: I<br />

have been making this<br />

board since the 80’s. It’s<br />

like a shortboard you can<br />

noseride.<br />

Shaper: Geoff Barden<br />

Dimensions: 10’<br />

Ideal conditions: Any size<br />

Ability level: Beginner to<br />

advanced<br />

Suits: Anyone who wants<br />

to have fun<br />

Description: An easy,<br />

stable board to stand on.<br />

Surf or flat water, this<br />

board does it. A perfect<br />

all-round board for<br />

someone who’s getting<br />

into the sport and also,<br />

with its performance<br />

characteristics, it will<br />

noseride ‘til the cows<br />

come home or step back<br />

and milk that puppy all<br />

the way to the beach<br />

with all the moves you<br />

can do.<br />

Construction: Hand<br />

shaped and glassed in<br />

epoxy resin with tint.<br />

Leash plug, vent and box<br />

handle for easy carrying.<br />

Fins: 10” centre box with<br />

side plugs<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

I ride this board 90% of<br />

the time in all conditions, it<br />

just works.<br />

ZAK SURFBOARDS<br />

3<strong>07</strong> Victoria Road<br />

Thornbury VIC 3<strong>07</strong>1<br />

Ph: 03 9416 7384<br />

Mobile: 0438 416 738<br />

zak@zaksurfboards.com<br />

zaksurfboards.com<br />

MUNRO HANDCRAFTED<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

2/29 Acacia Street<br />

Byron Bay NSW 2481<br />

Ph: 02 6685 6211<br />

info@munrosurfboards.com.au<br />

munrosurfboards.com.au<br />

CLARK SURFBOARDS<br />

20 Cottage Road,<br />

Hackham SA<br />

E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au<br />

M: 0422 443 789<br />

Available at<br />

www.onboardsurf.com.au<br />

RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN<br />

Ph: 02 4456 4038<br />

Mobile: 0427 767 176<br />

Bendalong, NSW 2539<br />

www.markrabbidge.com<br />

PADDLE TRIBE<br />

Geoff: 0408 701 467<br />

Steve: 0421 994 649<br />

E: info@paddletribe.com.au<br />

www.paddletribe.com.au<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

123


Catch the<br />

Grown wood<br />

workshop at<br />

the Byron Bay<br />

Surf Festival in<br />

October!<br />

STOMPA<br />

THE FLYER<br />

HIGH PERFORMANCE FISH<br />

SPEED DIALLER<br />

THE MONSTER<br />

Shaper: Mark Rabbidge<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’ x 20” x 2 ½”<br />

(ride this board at<br />

2” shorter than your<br />

shortboard)<br />

Suits: Custom tailored to<br />

suit the individual<br />

Description: Single to<br />

double to double concave.<br />

Construction: Dion foam<br />

blanks. I’ve been dealing<br />

with them for 45 years<br />

and for good reason.<br />

Fins: Thruster set up.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

More performance than a<br />

funboard, but still catches<br />

waves great and skates<br />

the fat sections easily.<br />

Shaper: Steve Barber<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’4” x 19 ¾” x 2 3 /8“<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Excellent everyday board<br />

Suits: Anyone<br />

Description: Flattish entry<br />

for easy paddling, single<br />

into double concave with<br />

tail vee on larger versions.<br />

Double flyers in planshape<br />

give greater tail width<br />

for drive thru turns in any<br />

conditions with better hold<br />

in larger waves as a bonus.<br />

Construction: Polyurethane<br />

Fins: Thruster or Quad.<br />

(Quad is best as 4 channel)<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

This is a rare all round<br />

board design. Great in<br />

ordinary surf through<br />

to pumping South<br />

Straddie or Snapper.<br />

Fast, manoeuverable,<br />

easy to surf, yet highperformance<br />

as well and<br />

forgiving when you’re<br />

having a bad day!<br />

Shaper: Woody<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’9”x 19 ¼” x 2 5 /8”<br />

Ideal conditions: 1-5 foot<br />

Suits: Intermediate to<br />

advanced surfers<br />

Description: Slight<br />

rolled vee to deeper vee<br />

between the fins, with a<br />

clean sleek outline and<br />

shallow swallowtail.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

polyurethane blank, Silmar<br />

resin, Surf 9 fiberglass. 4oz<br />

bottom, 4 oz x 4 oz deck<br />

Fins: FCS PC5<br />

Shaper comment: This<br />

is my favourite fish to ride<br />

at my local beachie or out<br />

on the point breaks. Surfs<br />

tight in the pocket and<br />

super fast down the line.<br />

Shaper: Andrew Wells<br />

Specs: 6’2” x 20 ¼” x 2 3 /8”<br />

Ideal: Anything up to 6ft.<br />

Description: A round<br />

tail quad with a slightly<br />

wider outline, big single<br />

to double concave and<br />

spiral vee out through<br />

the tail. Plenty of drive<br />

and is fast and loose.<br />

Being hollow timber, the<br />

board has plenty of float<br />

and easily skips over<br />

any fat sections, while<br />

still maintaining speed<br />

and drive. The additional<br />

weight in a timber board<br />

gives them a nice smooth<br />

flow in the water. This<br />

board goes great in waves<br />

with a bit of juice.<br />

Construction: Hollow<br />

timber. Plantation-grown<br />

Paulownia, recycled cedar.<br />

Fins: Quad<br />

Shaper comment: A<br />

must-have in the quiver.<br />

Every Grown board is<br />

individually hand crafted<br />

from recycled and<br />

plantation grown timber,<br />

takes over 30 hrs to hand<br />

craft and is completely<br />

unique. They look great,<br />

surf great and will give<br />

you years of enjoyment.<br />

Shaper: Paul Woodbry<br />

Specs: 6’ x 20 ¼” x 2 3 /8”<br />

Ideal conditions: ½’ to 3’<br />

onshore slop to good waves<br />

Suits: All levels<br />

Description: Extra area<br />

in the nose for good<br />

paddling, a single concave,<br />

squash tail with really<br />

hard edges for drive and<br />

awesome decal from<br />

surfboardgraphics.com.<br />

Construction: PU foam<br />

with polyester resin, 4oz<br />

bottom, 4oz deck with<br />

patch for strength. The full<br />

deck decal adds about 2oz<br />

of strength without any<br />

weight gain. A graphic like<br />

this one may even stop<br />

that grommie dropping in<br />

for a while as well.<br />

Fins: Thruster setup using<br />

FCS or Shapers fin systems.<br />

Shaper comment: Took<br />

a few boards to get this<br />

how I wanted it. Paddles<br />

amazing and is loose<br />

enough to control reverses<br />

on, but still can be power<br />

surfed. Makes surfing slop<br />

waves so much fun, it’s<br />

just ridiculous.<br />

Woody Surf Design<br />

boards exclusively<br />

available from:<br />

RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN<br />

Ph: 02 4456 4038<br />

Mobile: 0427 767 176<br />

Bendalong, NSW 2539<br />

www.markrabbidge.com<br />

STEVE BARBER/FULL FORCE<br />

18/48 Machinery Drive<br />

Tweed Heads South<br />

Ph: <strong>07</strong> 5524 2933<br />

fullforcesurf@hotmail.com<br />

Join us on Facebook<br />

WOODY JACK<br />

SURFBOARDS AUSTRALIA<br />

Unit 7, 25 Leonard Parade,<br />

Currumbin QLD<br />

Ph: 0415 789 706<br />

E: wjboards@gmail.com<br />

www.woodyjack.com<br />

GROWN SURFBOARDS<br />

Lennox Head<br />

PO Box 801, Ballina NSW 2478<br />

Ph: 04<strong>07</strong>889049<br />

sales@grownsurfboards.com.au<br />

grownsurfboards.com.au<br />

SURFWARE AUSTRALIA<br />

2 Bulcock Street,<br />

Caloundra QLD 4551<br />

Ph: <strong>07</strong> 5491 3620<br />

surfwareaustralia.com<br />

124 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

CLOWNFISH<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’2” x 20” x 3”<br />

Ideal: Manouverability,<br />

handling and speed in big<br />

or small surf.<br />

Ability level: From<br />

lightweight grommie to<br />

a ‘skeg head’ from the<br />

70’s who’s 6-pack is now<br />

‘hidden in the carton.’<br />

Description: Like a<br />

vision from the 70’s this<br />

classic Fish has all the<br />

great shape & style<br />

of it’s ancestors but all<br />

the advantages of the<br />

modern, construction,<br />

design technology.<br />

Construction: Light weight<br />

core, strong, resilient<br />

bottom & deck and vacuum<br />

bag epoxy laminating<br />

technology. Certain aspects<br />

of this board are unique<br />

only to Illusions Noosa.<br />

Fins: Quad<br />

Shaper comment: You’ll<br />

be taken back in time then<br />

projected into the pocket<br />

of every wave you catch!!<br />

Prepare to be stoked!<br />

ILLUSIONS NOOSA<br />

2/2 Venture Dve,<br />

Noosaville, QLD<br />

28 Sunshine Beach Rd,<br />

Noosa Junction, QLD<br />

Mobile: 0488 686 206<br />

0458 801 973<br />

illusionsnoosa.com.au<br />

MOJO PIN<br />

Shaper: Simon Skerry<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’6 - 6’4<br />

Suits: Steamer, Vest,<br />

Boardies.<br />

Description:<br />

Plush. So shiiinny<br />

Construction:<br />

Made for Ages!<br />

Fins: 2 x 8” dBL D fins.<br />

SKERRY SURF<br />

PO Box 354<br />

Lennox Head NSW 2478<br />

Ph: 0403 240 452<br />

theskerrysimon@hotmail.com<br />

skerrysurfboards.com<br />

DOUBLE FLYER FISH<br />

Shaper: Rory Oke<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’7” x 21 ½” x 2 ¾“<br />

Suits: The bigger/older<br />

guy who’s looking for<br />

performance<br />

Description: Full through<br />

the nose, narrowing to<br />

double flyers in the tail.<br />

This board has the width<br />

to support the bigger or<br />

older guy who still wants<br />

the looser performance of<br />

a shorter board.<br />

Construction: Ocean<br />

Foam blank, 4oz & 6oz<br />

glass.<br />

Fins: Speeedfins<br />

Fibreglass s115s - FCS<br />

compatible.<br />

Shaper comment: :)<br />

OKE SURFBOARDS<br />

1/1-7 Canterbury Rd,<br />

Braeside, VIC, 3195<br />

Ph: 03 9587 3553<br />

okesurfboards.com<br />

FLYING FISH<br />

Shaper: Mark Riley<br />

Length: 5’5’’ - 6’2’’<br />

Width: 19 ½’’ - 21 ½’’<br />

Thickness: 2 ½” - 3’’<br />

Ideal conditions: ½ - 5 ft<br />

Ability level: Advanced<br />

to experienced<br />

Description: An EPS<br />

foam core performance<br />

fish which features<br />

stringerless flex and<br />

memory return. Can<br />

turn on a dime and drive<br />

when required. The 2 ½’’<br />

thickness of the board<br />

under the chest area<br />

makes this board a great<br />

wave catcher. It’s flat<br />

from nose to centre with<br />

a double scoop concave<br />

at the swallow tail.<br />

Construction: Balsa with<br />

EPS foam core<br />

Fins: Your choice of twin,<br />

keels or quad<br />

Customer’s comment:<br />

“Love this. It has become<br />

my favourite board” Tom,<br />

Southern NSW<br />

Riley surfboards are<br />

made in Australia, have<br />

a 12-month warranty<br />

and are Micro-tagged<br />

to prevent theft. Custom<br />

orders are welcome.<br />

RILEY SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0412 376 464<br />

E: mark@riley.com.au<br />

balsasurfboardsriley.com.au<br />

RETRO QUAD<br />

Shaper: Brett Munro<br />

Specs: 5’10” x 20” x 2 ¼”<br />

Ideal: Small to overhead,<br />

clean beach or reef/point<br />

breaks.<br />

Description:<br />

Single concave into vee<br />

then double concave.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

foam, quality lamination<br />

and finishing with carbon<br />

fibre rods.<br />

Fins: Futures quads.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Full tucked edge with<br />

front foot pressure for big<br />

carving turns. Speed to<br />

burn, ride them short.<br />

MUNRO HANDCRAFTED<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

2/29 Acacia Street<br />

Byron Bay NSW 2481<br />

Ph: 02 6685 6211<br />

info@munrosurfboards.com.au<br />

munrosurfboards.com.au<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

125


SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

GEAR: BOARDS<br />

THE HOT DOG<br />

THE FREAK<br />

POPSTER PRO<br />

PERFORMANCE SHORTY<br />

THE BIG EASY<br />

Shaper: Dean “Dino” Tziolis<br />

Dimensions: 5’4” - 6’<br />

Suits: Anyone - Custom<br />

Description: Fun<br />

shortboard. Super quick,<br />

easy to get up and<br />

planing, yet responds<br />

positively to rider input.<br />

Wider planshape for<br />

small surf. Enough rocker<br />

for medium surf. Ride<br />

about 4” shorter than<br />

a standard shortboard.<br />

Original print Goodtime<br />

logos - it’s a piece of<br />

Australian surfing history.<br />

Construction: South<br />

Coast Foam. 2 x 4oz glass.<br />

Rails are lapped on the<br />

bottom edge in carbon<br />

Fins: AFC<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Goodtime prides itself<br />

on making quality<br />

surfboards and has done<br />

so since 1971. Whether<br />

it’s a classic shape, a<br />

performance thruster<br />

or a simple fish tail, no<br />

matter how many fins...<br />

its been here or its in<br />

here. Goodtime is what<br />

surfing is all about. Over<br />

thirty years later, we’re<br />

still having a good time<br />

surfing!<br />

GOODTIME SURFBOARDS<br />

29 Ipswich Rd,<br />

Woolloongabba QLD 4102<br />

Ph: <strong>07</strong> 3391 8588<br />

info@goodtime.com.au<br />

www.goodtime.com.au<br />

Shaper: Zak Koniaris<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’4” x 21” x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal: Small to medium<br />

sized waves, 2-5ft.<br />

Ability level:<br />

Beginners to Intermediate<br />

Description: Designed for<br />

paddle and performance.<br />

The single into double<br />

concave and a chine<br />

rail gives the board a<br />

super-fast, responsive feel<br />

for any person who has<br />

wave-count in mind. The<br />

spoon deck offers more<br />

foam, making the board<br />

more forgiving. Super<br />

easy, super fun, super fast<br />

- a must for the quiver.<br />

Construction: PU core<br />

4oz bottom, 10oz deck.<br />

Fins: 5 plug setup for<br />

ultimate choice<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

This board has been our<br />

biggest seller by far. It<br />

offers intermediate surfers<br />

a fish with a lot more drive<br />

and versatility.<br />

ZAK SURFBOARDS<br />

3<strong>07</strong> Victoria Road<br />

Thornbury VIC 3<strong>07</strong>1<br />

Ph: 03 9416 7384<br />

Mobile: 0438 416 738<br />

zak@zaksurfboards.com<br />

zaksurfboards.com<br />

Shaper: Ed Sinnott<br />

Specs: From 5’4 - 6’4”<br />

Get in touch for customs<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Anything up the 6’<br />

Description: This is a<br />

combination of all my<br />

old single fin and twinfin<br />

templates combined with<br />

new school bottom curves<br />

and rails. The result is a<br />

sensational hybrid that<br />

flys. Flat entry, deep vortex<br />

concave, razor edges and<br />

wet and dry finish.<br />

Construction: Burford/<br />

South Coast PU blanks,<br />

Silmar polyester resin,<br />

Colan and Surf Nine glass.<br />

This combination has<br />

stood the test of time.<br />

Fins: Quad or thruster<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

A unique and amazing<br />

hybrid board that goes<br />

ballistic in anything.<br />

Developed by Josh Sleep,<br />

Jono Salfeild and the<br />

Afends boys in Byron Bay.<br />

They see it as a majestic<br />

alternative for all round<br />

surfing. Tried and tested,<br />

it’s proved them right.<br />

ESP SURFBOARDS<br />

2/81 Centennial Circuit<br />

Byron Bay, NSW<br />

Ph: 0404 059 321<br />

www.espsurfshop.com.au<br />

www.edsinnott.com.au<br />

Shaper: Chad Ryan<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’1” x 18 3 /8” x 2 ¼”<br />

Ideal conditions: 2 - 6ft.<br />

Ability level:<br />

Intermediate to advanced<br />

Description: The<br />

ultimate performance<br />

shorty. Single to double<br />

concave for a super fast<br />

and responsive stick for<br />

all conditions. Rounded<br />

pin for good hold, but<br />

you pick the tail for your<br />

performance. For all round<br />

ripping!!<br />

Construction: Hand<br />

shaped polyester<br />

construction, standard or<br />

team glassing<br />

Fins: Thruster, 3 fixed<br />

or FCS<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Hand shaping allows me<br />

to work closely with my<br />

clients, to shape them<br />

the perfect board to their<br />

preference.<br />

SKIPP SURFBOARDS<br />

FACTORY SHOWROOM<br />

24 Flinders St<br />

North Wollongong, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 4228 8878<br />

CITY SURF CENTRE<br />

231 Crown Street<br />

Wollongong City, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 4229 1202<br />

E: factory@skippsurfboards.com.au<br />

skippsurfboards.com.au<br />

Shaper: Simon Jones<br />

Dimensions: 6’2” - 7’<br />

Suits: Anyone - Custom<br />

Description: Semi<br />

roundhouse wing round<br />

tail with a vee through<br />

centre toward tail.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

blank, fully handshaped.<br />

6/6/6oz Bay Mills glass<br />

Silmar polyester resins.<br />

Fins: Thruster FCS set up<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Goodtime prides itself<br />

on making quality<br />

surfboards and has done<br />

so since 1971. Whether<br />

it’s a classic shape, a<br />

performance thruster or a<br />

simple fish tail, no matter<br />

how many fins... its been<br />

here or its in here. Over<br />

thirty years later, we’re<br />

still having a good time<br />

surfing!<br />

Rider comment: “After<br />

catching a couple of<br />

waves went to the back<br />

and found it was really<br />

maneuverable, very fun<br />

and you could walk up and<br />

down it as well”<br />

Tyler Wright<br />

GOODTIME SURFBOARDS<br />

29 Ipswich Rd,<br />

Woolloongabba QLD 4102<br />

Ph: <strong>07</strong> 3391 8588<br />

info@goodtime.com.au<br />

www.goodtime.com.au<br />

126 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


BLANKS<br />

OLD EIGHTY ONE<br />

CARBON EPOXY PR0<br />

THE WILD ONE<br />

WHIPLASH<br />

MEGA LITE<br />

Shaper: Ed Sinnott<br />

Specs: From 5’4 - 6’4”<br />

Get in touch for customs<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Anything up the 6’<br />

Description: Similar to<br />

the Popster and Whiplash,<br />

but has the deepest<br />

concave and widest nose<br />

of the three. I combined<br />

my single fin and old<br />

twin fin templates to<br />

get the 13’’ nose looking<br />

good and put the wide<br />

point 2’’ forward. Loose<br />

off the front foot and is<br />

multidirectional. Deep<br />

concave drives through<br />

dead sections.<br />

Construction: Burford/<br />

South Coast PU blanks,<br />

Silmar polyester resin,<br />

Colan and Surf Nine glass.<br />

Fins: Quad or thruster<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Developed along with<br />

Jake Spooner, a former<br />

top ten professional surfer<br />

who I first started making<br />

boards for in the early 80s.<br />

Extremely fast and stable<br />

in bigger sections, it can be<br />

surfed vertically as well.<br />

Shaper: Mark Plater or<br />

Matt Crisp<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’2” x 18 ¾” x 2 ¼”<br />

Ideal: For the guy that<br />

wants to take his surfing<br />

Hi-Fi<br />

Suits: You :)<br />

Description: This carbon<br />

strip shorty is drivey,<br />

fast responsive turning,<br />

lightweight. Great for<br />

boosting!<br />

Construction: Eps/Epoxy<br />

with carbon stringer<br />

Fins: Thruster or Quad FCS.<br />

Shaper comment: We<br />

don’t blow our own horn.<br />

The boards do the talking!<br />

Shaper: Lee Cheyne<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’11” x 19 ¼” x 2 3 /8”<br />

Ideal conditions: Most<br />

Ability level:<br />

Beginner to advanced<br />

Suits: Anyone<br />

Description: Custom<br />

made in Australia by me<br />

personally, for you and<br />

whoever wants one.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

foam, Surf 9 4oz glass and<br />

Silmar resin.<br />

Fins: FCS, Futures or Gas<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Support your local shapers<br />

and manufacturers!<br />

They have families and<br />

mortgages, and they pay<br />

taxes too.<br />

Shaper: Ed Sinnott<br />

Specs: From 5’4 - 6’4”<br />

Get in touch for customs<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Anything up to 6’<br />

Description: Developed<br />

by Josh Lewan from Byron<br />

Bay. To get it to feel like a<br />

skateboard on the waves<br />

with no catch points, we<br />

increased the outline and<br />

decreased the size of the<br />

surfboard. Similar to the<br />

Popster but has a lower<br />

rocker and wider tail with<br />

deeper double barrels.<br />

It should be ridden 2-4”<br />

smaller than a traditional<br />

short board but 1’’ wider<br />

and thicker.<br />

Construction: Burford/<br />

South Coast PU blanks,<br />

Silmar polyester resin,<br />

Colan and Surf Nine glass.<br />

Fins: Quad or thruster<br />

Shaper comment: Josh<br />

says it is the fastest thing<br />

he has ever ridden and it<br />

goes anywhere you want<br />

to go on the wave.<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’4” x 21 7 /16” x 2 7 /8”<br />

Nose: 14 ¾”<br />

Tail: 16 ¾”<br />

Rocker: 5 ½” nose, 2 ½” tail<br />

Also in 3 1 /8” thick version<br />

Description: Hard Cell<br />

Technology foam blank<br />

with a standard T3<br />

stringer. This one is a<br />

Shortboard 6’4”(A) Thin -<br />

for boards that need more<br />

width in the nose and tail.<br />

Comment: Ideal for fish,<br />

dumpster diver, biscuit<br />

style of shapes. Our<br />

latest development in PU<br />

foam technology - super<br />

white formula which has<br />

become standard within<br />

our range. Delivers the<br />

best surfing performance<br />

of a light weight<br />

surfboard. Shapers here<br />

and abroad are using<br />

this new technology for<br />

their top surfers currently<br />

competing on the world<br />

tour with great results.<br />

Strong, light-weight<br />

performance available<br />

now for all shapers.<br />

ESP SURFBOARDS<br />

2/81 Centennial Circuit<br />

Byron Bay, NSW<br />

Ph: 0404 059 321<br />

www.espsurfshop.com.au<br />

www.edsinnott.com.au<br />

MADDOG SURF CENTRE<br />

Ph: 02 6685 6022<br />

Ewingsdale Road<br />

Byron Bay 2481<br />

www.maddog.com.au<br />

LEE CHEYNE DESIGNS<br />

19/48 Machinery Dr,<br />

Tweed Heads South<br />

NSW 2486<br />

Ph: <strong>07</strong> 5523 3237<br />

lcdboards@gmail.com<br />

myspace.com/454626994<br />

tradewindsurf.com.au<br />

ESP SURFBOARDS<br />

2/81 Centennial Circuit<br />

Byron Bay, NSW<br />

Ph: 0404 059 321<br />

www.espsurfshop.com.au<br />

www.edsinnott.com.au<br />

SOUTH COAST FOAM<br />

& FIBREGLASS<br />

Ph: <strong>07</strong> 5522 1600<br />

15 Greg Chappel Dve,<br />

Burleigh Gardens Estate,<br />

Andrews, QLD 4220<br />

sales@southcoastfoam.com.au<br />

southcoastfoam.com.au<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

127


THE COOLUM<br />

Designer: Albie Curtis<br />

Dimensions:<br />

7’2” x 19 ¾”x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal: It’s made for<br />

the local conditions,<br />

specifically Coolum<br />

where I grew up. 4-5ft<br />

barrely waves<br />

Ability: Intermediate<br />

surfers after a larger high<br />

performance shortboard.<br />

Description: Albie Curtis<br />

Signature Model.<br />

Construction: Vacuum<br />

bagged with a EPS core,<br />

bamboo stringer, 4oz deck<br />

and 4oz fibreglass bottom.<br />

Vent plug. Certain aspects<br />

of this board are unique<br />

only to Illusions Noosa.<br />

Fins: Three fin setup<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Paddles well, good<br />

flotation. Good rail<br />

to rail transition and<br />

turning power. Fantastic<br />

manouverability, handling<br />

& speed in small to<br />

medium sized surf.<br />

ILLUSIONS NOOSA<br />

2/2 Venture Dve,<br />

Noosaville, QLD<br />

28 Sunshine Beach Rd,<br />

Noosa Junction, QLD<br />

Mobile: 0488 686 206<br />

0458 801 973<br />

illusionsnoosa.com.au<br />

RETRO BAMBOO FISH<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’10” x 22 ½” x 3 1 /8”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Big and small surf.<br />

Ability level: Light<br />

weight grommie or ‘skeg<br />

head’ from the 70’s who’s<br />

6-pack is now ‘hidden in<br />

the carton.’<br />

Description: Like a<br />

vision from the 70’s. All<br />

the style of it’s ancestors<br />

but all the advantages of<br />

the modern construction<br />

and design technology.<br />

Aspects of this board are<br />

unique to Illusions Noosa.<br />

Construction: Vacuum<br />

bagged and constructed<br />

of a D-XP3 core - a 100%<br />

recycled bamboo fibre blank<br />

with bamboo veneer and 4oz<br />

fibreglass top and bottom.<br />

Fins: Twin fins and Quad<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Designed in Australia, this<br />

is a great board for those<br />

who are after a retro fish<br />

shape for under $600.<br />

ILLUSIONS NOOSA<br />

2/2 Venture Dve,<br />

Noosaville, QLD<br />

28 Sunshine Beach Rd,<br />

Noosa Junction, QLD<br />

Mobile: 0488 686 206<br />

0458 801 973<br />

illusionsnoosa.com.au<br />

THE TRADITIONAL<br />

Shaper: Dave O’Reilly<br />

Specs: 6’4” x 17 ¼” x 1”<br />

Ideal: Small, clean waves<br />

for fun, bigger if you’re keen.<br />

Suits: Anyone who wants<br />

to be a better water man<br />

(or woman!) Open your<br />

mind to the possibilities.<br />

Ability: Beginner to<br />

advanced. The learning<br />

curve can require patience.<br />

Description: Thicker than<br />

standard ¾”, allowing for<br />

two deep concaves in the<br />

bottom for a board that<br />

holds and slides. Softer<br />

rail edges top and bottom<br />

for slip sliding and fast<br />

trimming.<br />

Construction: 100%<br />

Australian grown and<br />

milled Paulownia, sealed<br />

with raw linseed oil and<br />

gum turpentine.<br />

Fins: Fin-free and ready<br />

to slide.<br />

Shaper comment: Alaias<br />

are about speed and<br />

re-learning to surf. Catch a<br />

wave on one and you won’t<br />

wipe the smile off your<br />

face. Have fun trimming<br />

fast and join the finless<br />

revolution! A great board to<br />

have in your quiver.<br />

SURFING GREEN<br />

Coolum Beach, QLD<br />

Mobile: 0412 042 811<br />

surfinggreen.com.au<br />

STUB-E<br />

Shaper: Paul Armstrong<br />

Dimensions: Custom<br />

order to your requirements<br />

Ideal: Small to medium.<br />

Wave catching machine.<br />

Ability: Beginners to<br />

advanced<br />

Description: The classic<br />

stubbie hull look, with the<br />

performance of a modern<br />

short board. Domed nose<br />

into single concave to<br />

double barrel spiral V.<br />

S-deck rocker and a low to<br />

medium rail line, all giving<br />

this board nicer curves<br />

than Beyonce Knowles’<br />

arse! Hand shaped and<br />

Handcrafted.<br />

Construction: From<br />

smelly, sticky, dusty shit.<br />

Fins: Available in 2+1, tri,<br />

quad or 5-fin combo.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

By giving the Stub-E a<br />

planning hull platform, it<br />

makes the board a much<br />

more user friendly and<br />

versatile all rounder.<br />

EXPRESS SURFBOARDS<br />

5/136 Taren Point Rd<br />

Taren Point NSW<br />

Mob: 0403 827 478<br />

expresssurfboards@gmail.com<br />

expresssurfboards.com.au<br />

THE STICK<br />

Shaper: Mark Riley<br />

Length: 5’2’’ - 6’8’’<br />

Width: 18 1/2’’-20’’<br />

Thickness: 2 1/2’’ -3’’<br />

Ideal conditions: ½ - 9 ft<br />

Ability level: Advanced<br />

to experienced<br />

Description: A balsa<br />

skinned EPS foam core<br />

shortboard. No stringer<br />

and recycled EPS foam<br />

reduces weight, bringing<br />

the Stick to around 3kg.<br />

Features a Vee scoop in<br />

the tail to concave centre<br />

and concave nose, 80/20<br />

rails and a swallow tail.<br />

Construction: Balsa with<br />

EPS foam core<br />

Fins: Thruster or quad<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

For summer’s small to<br />

medium waves, the Riley<br />

Stick is also available as<br />

a quad - way faster than<br />

your standard thruster or<br />

even twin fin and much<br />

more responsive.<br />

Riley surfboards are<br />

environmentally friendly<br />

and three times stronger<br />

than a regular PU board.<br />

RILEY SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0412 376 464<br />

E: mark@riley.com.au<br />

balsasurfboardsriley.com.au<br />

128 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


B Y R O N B A Y . A U S T R A L I A<br />

GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

MICRO MAL<br />

THE dim-SIM<br />

MINI SIMMONS DELUXE<br />

4-FIN FISH<br />

FRESH FISH<br />

Shaper: Mark Plater or<br />

Matt Crisp<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’10” x 20 ½ x 2 ½”<br />

Ideal: For those small fun<br />

days when you still want<br />

to get waves and leave<br />

the shorty at home.<br />

Suits: The crew looking<br />

for a great time in the<br />

tiny stuff.<br />

Description: The San<br />

Juan yellow micro mal<br />

is set up as a single fin<br />

to get your soul on, or<br />

thruster to burn down the<br />

walls!<br />

Construction: PU foam,<br />

strong glass job and a<br />

epic spray.<br />

Fins: Fin box and FCS<br />

set up.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Horns?<br />

Shaper: Mark PridMORE<br />

Dimensions:<br />

Measure it yourself<br />

Ideal: Yep, it is.<br />

Suits: Dont like ‘em.<br />

They’re not comfortable and<br />

ya look like a penguin.<br />

Description: A super fun<br />

slab that’ll surprise the<br />

sh*t outta you...<br />

Construction: PU/PE -<br />

Doin’ some stringerless,<br />

puttin’ flex and<br />

even MORE life in ‘em...<br />

Fins: Most of the time<br />

(twin keel or quad)<br />

Shapers Comment:<br />

I could make myself any<br />

shape at all and this is<br />

what I ride 90% of the<br />

time, so I know these<br />

boards inside out.<br />

Shaper: Jesse Watson<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’4” x 21 ½” x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal conditions: Up to<br />

head high sliders<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Whatever you wanna try.<br />

I ride mine from the goldy<br />

to indo.<br />

Suits: Ricky-Bobby<br />

(Talledega Nights) “I just<br />

wanna go fast!”<br />

Description: Fast... so<br />

fast it’ll peel your eyes<br />

outta their sockets. Super<br />

wide and stable, this<br />

board has been dubbed<br />

the “section connection.”<br />

You’ll get the fastest,<br />

longest rides of your life<br />

on the Simmons.<br />

Construction: 6/4oz<br />

deck + 6oz bottom, full<br />

resin art stripes gloss and<br />

polish, glass on leash loop<br />

- proper old skool.<br />

Fins: Matching,<br />

custom tint glass-ons.<br />

Shaper comment: Are<br />

you feeling uninspired with<br />

your surfing, a little bored or<br />

dull? The Simmons will put<br />

the fun back into your life.<br />

Just in time for summer.<br />

Shaper: Dave Parkes<br />

Specs: 6’2 x 22 ½” x 2 5 /8”<br />

Ideal: 4-8ft good quality<br />

waves with hollow<br />

sections and walls.<br />

Description: This board<br />

evolved out of my smaller<br />

4-fin fish tail all rounder.<br />

Longer and narrower with<br />

a thinner, narrower tail.<br />

Fins are placed further<br />

back. Concave is lessened<br />

and vee comes into play.<br />

Construction: PU<br />

Surfblank with laminated<br />

stringer. 6oz glass. Gloss<br />

polish or pro-sand.<br />

Fins: definitely a 4-finner.<br />

Fin systems or glassed on.<br />

I‘m using Surfinz boxes and<br />

Powerbase fins on mine.<br />

Shaper comment: If I<br />

had to take only one board<br />

with me on an around<br />

the world trip this would<br />

be it. My shapes are not<br />

set in stone so custom<br />

variation is the way to<br />

go to suit different riders<br />

requirements. Just ask.<br />

Shaper: Neil Luke<br />

Specs: 5’10” x 24”x 2 3 /8”<br />

Ideal: Anything under 8ft<br />

Ability: Average to excellent<br />

Description: Quad with<br />

complex bottom contour.<br />

Bevels blend into deep nose<br />

concave into double concave<br />

under knees,flowing through<br />

to vee out the tail. Flowing,<br />

fast board that can grovel in<br />

junk, draw long lines or go<br />

straight up and down. Loves<br />

the barrell.<br />

Construction: Burford NLR<br />

KB blank. 4, 5 or 6oz glass.<br />

Gloss polish or pro-sand.<br />

Cosmic colour combos with<br />

pigments or tints, double<br />

pinlines or Skerry Art sprays.<br />

Fins: Future boxes with<br />

Rasta keels and Scimitar<br />

Pivot with a twist.<br />

Shaper comment: Shaping<br />

kneeboards since 1970, this<br />

represents a variety of many<br />

of my experiences. It’s my<br />

favourite which I ride 90% of<br />

the time. Great paddler, lots<br />

of fun and inspiring to surf.<br />

MADDOG SURF CENTRE<br />

Ph: 02 6685 6022<br />

Ewingsdale Road<br />

Byron Bay 2481<br />

www.maddog.com.au<br />

MORE SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0405 475 026<br />

www.moresurfboards.com<br />

Also available through<br />

Da Bomb Surf Centres in<br />

Maroochydore and Bokarina.<br />

www.dabombsurf.com.au<br />

black apache surfboards<br />

BLACK APACHE<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0410 419 791<br />

blackapachesurfboards@live.com.au<br />

blackapachesurfboards.com.au<br />

C U S T O M K N E E B O A R D S<br />

PARKES AUSTRALIA<br />

4/83 Centennial Circuit<br />

Byron Bay, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 6685 6627<br />

E: d-par@bigpond.com<br />

parkesaustralia.com<br />

AT PARKES AUSTRALIA<br />

4/83 Centennial Circuit<br />

Byron Bay, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 6685 6627<br />

E: d-par@bigpond.com<br />

parkesaustralia.com<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

129


THE HULL<br />

FLEXTAIL<br />

THE SAWN OFF<br />

MINI MAL<br />

Shaper: COLLINS/<br />

PEDERSEN concepts...<br />

GCat and the Erle of<br />

Pederson.<br />

Description:<br />

This boat hull is a<br />

“scaled version” of an 80ft<br />

super cruzer.<br />

This little beauty has a<br />

similar design/ shape to<br />

the LAZOR ZAP which =<br />

massive planing area in<br />

the arse end.<br />

ERLE’S jet concept allows<br />

tension free speed &<br />

allows a cushion effect<br />

via a concave entry JET &<br />

then travels thru in to the<br />

detailed true JET combo &<br />

onto the arse end for the<br />

ultimate planing concept...<br />

(as do our functional art<br />

surfboards)<br />

Shaper: Jed Done<br />

Specs: 6’1”x 20 ¼” x 2 5 /8”<br />

Ideal: Shoulder high to<br />

double over head.<br />

Description: All round<br />

flextail quad, born from 11<br />

years of riding and refining<br />

flextails.Wedge stringer,<br />

wide point forward, deep<br />

concave underfoot, foil<br />

shape and negative rocker<br />

in flextail all lead towards<br />

speed and drive.<br />

The ‘v’ in the flextail<br />

gives the rail rocker a<br />

hip that lines up with<br />

the leading edge of the<br />

quad fins. Fins have a<br />

slight twist in the tip<br />

for a wider sweet spot,<br />

allowing the board<br />

to go from rail to rail<br />

easily. This all means a<br />

fast board that turns well.<br />

Construction: Dion PU<br />

foam. Single wedged<br />

stringer. Tinted glass<br />

bottom with resin pinline.<br />

Carbon fiber flextail .<br />

Fins: 4WFS for flexibility<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Works from 5’5” to<br />

7’. It goes best 2-3”<br />

shorter, ½” wider and ¼”<br />

thicker than your regular<br />

shortboard.<br />

Don’t be afraid of the<br />

dark, these things go like<br />

a cut snake!!<br />

Specs: 5’10” x 19” x 2¼”<br />

Ideal conditions: 0 - 4ft<br />

Description: A small wave<br />

board ridden a few inches<br />

smaller than your standard<br />

shortboard. Enough area<br />

through the nose for easy<br />

paddling and hold, width<br />

through the tail for loose<br />

top turns and a single to<br />

double concave in the tail.<br />

The best board for Sunshine<br />

Coast conditions.<br />

Construction: The finest<br />

materials, from A1 Every<br />

time blanks to world class<br />

high sheen UV finishes.<br />

Comment: Shotgun have a<br />

reputation for producing only<br />

the highest quality surf craft.<br />

OCEAN ADDICTS are<br />

now proud stockists of<br />

Shotgun Surfboards and<br />

Laguna Bay Longboards.<br />

We freight to anywhere<br />

in Australia, so have<br />

your new board<br />

delivered to your door!<br />

Trade in your old board<br />

for the best price.<br />

Shaper: Paul Carson<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’8” x 21 ¾” x 2 ¾”<br />

Nose: 16 ½”<br />

Tail: 14 ¾”<br />

Ideal for: Anything.<br />

Suits: Tamara<br />

Description: Fun mini<br />

mal, round tail, but can be<br />

any shape tail.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

blank, colour spray<br />

Fins: Thruster, quad or<br />

single + 2.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Did this one for Tamara,<br />

coming off 8’ mal. It has<br />

similar width and stability<br />

but performs more like a<br />

shortboard.<br />

Surfboards and surfing<br />

props for movies and ads<br />

SURF1770NOOSA.COM<br />

surf1770@bigpond.com<br />

surf1770noosa.com<br />

BUSHRAT SURFBOARDS<br />

Merimbula NSW<br />

Ph: 0409 813 431<br />

E: jed@bushrat.com<br />

www.bushrat.com<br />

OCEAN ADDICTS<br />

103-105 Aerodrome Rd<br />

Maroochydore<br />

Ph: <strong>07</strong> 5309 6624<br />

E: info@oceanaddicts.com.au<br />

oceanaddicts.com.au<br />

THE FACTORY<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

CALOUNDRA<br />

17 Allen Street<br />

Caloundra QLD 4551<br />

Ph: <strong>07</strong> 5492 5838<br />

paul@thefactorysurfboards.com.au<br />

thefactorysurfboards.com.au<br />

130 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

MINI BULLET<br />

Shaper: Wayne McKewen<br />

Specs: 5’7” x 18 ¾” x 2 ¼ ”<br />

From 5’7” to 6’0” with<br />

more volume. Short for<br />

maximum benefit.<br />

Ideal: Anywhere from<br />

small beachies to medium<br />

point or reef waves.<br />

Description: Launched in<br />

2009, we’ve made some<br />

exciting variations with the<br />

Mini Bullet this <strong>September</strong>.<br />

Stringerless to maximise<br />

flex - this has reduced<br />

weight and increased flex<br />

in length and width. Flatter<br />

rocker and most are vee<br />

bottoms. Round square,<br />

round or swallow tails with<br />

a single, double or no flyers.<br />

Construction: PU Burford<br />

blank, 4 x 4oz decks and<br />

4oz bottom. Can do 6 x 4oz<br />

decks for heavier guys and<br />

parabolic carbon-kevlar rails.<br />

Fins: FCS, 5 Fin to use as<br />

thruster or quad.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Added flex translates<br />

to a whippy feel and<br />

acceleration through<br />

turns. It’s the result of<br />

two years of research and<br />

development and is an<br />

exciting variation on our<br />

original Bullet concept.<br />

MINI BULLET<br />

Shaper: Wayne McKewen<br />

Specs: 5’9” x 19 x 2 3 /8”<br />

From 5’7” to 6’0” with<br />

more volume. Short for<br />

maximum benefit.<br />

Ideal: Anywhere from<br />

small beachies to medium<br />

point or reef waves.<br />

Description: Launched in<br />

2009, we’ve made some<br />

exciting variations with the<br />

Mini Bullet this <strong>September</strong>.<br />

Stringerless to maximise<br />

flex - this has reduced<br />

weight and increased flex<br />

in length and width. Flatter<br />

rocker and most are vee<br />

bottoms. Round square,<br />

round or swallow tails with<br />

a single, double or no flyers.<br />

Construction: PU Burford<br />

blank, 4 x 4oz decks and<br />

4oz bottom. Can do 6 x 4oz<br />

decks for heavier guys and<br />

parabolic carbon-kevlar rails.<br />

Fins: FCS, 5 Fin to use as<br />

thruster or quad.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Added flex translates<br />

to a whippy feel and<br />

acceleration through<br />

turns. It’s the result of<br />

two years of research and<br />

development and is an<br />

exciting variation on our<br />

original Bullet concept.<br />

THE STRINGERLESS MINI BULLET:<br />

A NEW RELEASE FOR SEPTEMBER<br />

“The Bullet was launched in 2009. These were<br />

designed to be a bit shorter and a bit wider, semiconvential<br />

and mainly for smaller summer waves but<br />

still a good all rounder. Over the last two years we<br />

have done a lot of R&D by getting feedback from our<br />

team riders, factory and shop staff and customers.<br />

This resulted in some exciting variations oin the<br />

original concept.”<br />

The Mt Woodgee Team<br />

MT WOODGEE<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Stores at Coolangatta,<br />

Currumbin, Burleigh Heads<br />

Ph: <strong>07</strong> 5535 0288<br />

www.mtwoodgee.com.au<br />

MT WOODGEE<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Stores at Coolangatta,<br />

Currumbin, Burleigh Heads<br />

Ph: <strong>07</strong> 5535 0288<br />

www.mtwoodgee.com.au<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

131


GEAR: BLANKS<br />

drawing<br />

lank<br />

WORDS: BEN HORVATH<br />

Artists paint on a blank canvas,<br />

surfers dance across empty waves,<br />

shapers handcraft surfboards from<br />

humble pieces of foam.<br />

Surfers would not be able to carve<br />

unique individual tracks on waves<br />

without a board under foot. Similarly,<br />

craftsmen cannot create contemporary<br />

surfboards without a blank at hand.<br />

Each individual surfer’s journey quite<br />

literally begins in foam, and our whole<br />

trip starts with a blank.<br />

Surfboard blanks are basically pieces of foam that are designed, cut and<br />

handcrafted into specific shapes to suit individual wave riding needs.<br />

These pieces of shaped foam then become the centre or foam core of<br />

our “sticks”, after going through the final lamination stages of the board<br />

building process.<br />

Shapers look at a foam surfboard blank as the vital cog in the board<br />

crafting process.<br />

Legendary Gold Coast craftsmen Dick Van Straalen said, “It is imperative<br />

that a shaper chooses the right blank. Ideally, shapers are advised to<br />

source blanks similar in size and shape to the desired custom order. Too<br />

much cutting and sawing foam off a blank can severely weaken the foam<br />

and result in a stick with poor flex.”<br />

When I asked Dick what influences his decision when sourcing blanks, he<br />

rated consistency in foam and “The Plug” being the mould or shape of the<br />

blank as the most important factors. Dick said, “If you get the right plug it<br />

also minimises waste. I’ve been getting my blanks off Burford pretty much<br />

since day dot.”<br />

These days there is a smorgasboard (pun intended) of surfboard blanks<br />

to choose from, which in itself is a reflection of the healthy diversity in<br />

the marketplace. Blank lengths in <strong>2011</strong> range anywhere from 5’4" right<br />

through to 12’1". Widths are also available from 18"to 31".<br />

Another critical feature when shapers choose their surfboard blank is<br />

the density of the foam. A surfboard being shaped for a novice or Joe<br />

the Butcher would be created using a different foam density to a high<br />

performance contest board designed for Mick Fanning or a tow board for<br />

Mark Mathews to tackle Solander for that matter.<br />

The type of board or outline you desire also has a major effect on the<br />

required density of foam in the chosen blank as well. For example a long<br />

board requires a different foam density to a fish.<br />

Well-known shaper Darren Handley said, “Everything starts with<br />

the foam, the quality of foam is often overlooked in the surfboard<br />

manufacturing business. It really is critical. The foam sets the buoyancy,<br />

and also dictates the strength of your equipment. Strength, foam density,<br />

132 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

performance and shape-ability are the main contributing factors I<br />

weigh up when I go about selecting the best performance blank.”<br />

“I have tried and sourced foam from pretty much all corners of the<br />

globe, for a while we even had a go at blowing our own foam at<br />

BASE," Darren says. "Although our attempts weren’t as successful as<br />

we had hoped, I learnt a lot and it sure did increase my understanding<br />

of blanks and their performance.”<br />

During our conversation I suggested that the general extent of the<br />

average surfer’s interest in blanks is pretty much limited to requesting<br />

that their shaper use the lightest and strongest blank available.<br />

Darren agreed with my sentiments, immediately citing Mick Fanning's<br />

insistence on South Coast Foam blanks for that very reason. Darren<br />

said, "At the moment I work closely with Core and South Coast Foam<br />

with my DHD shapes. I have been working with these two suppliers<br />

for quite a few years now, developing the highest quality foam with<br />

the greatest durability without sacrificing performance.<br />

While strength is paramount, not all shapers agree on weight as a<br />

primary decider of which blanks to use. Geoff McCoy, a pioneer of the<br />

surfboard manufacturing industry, in fact ranks weight as of much lower<br />

importance than a host of other factors.<br />

"Graham King Foam is the best," he insists. "The reason for that is the<br />

density of it, the way it shapes, the hardness... everything you want in<br />

a foam is there. There is so much more to it than just producing light<br />

blanks. You need strength, durability and ease of shaping. Experience<br />

counts and it shows."<br />

Bruno ‘The Buzz’ Buzzolan of Town & Country Surfboards, on the other<br />

hand, believes the Devil's in the details.<br />

"We have tried heaps of different blanks, but we have stuck with<br />

Burford’s because their quality is the most consistent. Not just the<br />

foam quality but simple things like the stringer being in the centre of<br />

the blank and using seasoned timber for the stringer."<br />

Graham King, a stalwart of the blank manufacturing industry and the<br />

man behind Graham King Foam, rates consistency and experience


as the key ingredients in blowing<br />

a blank. As Graham explains it,<br />

"Everyone wants to say their<br />

foam is the best, but on any given<br />

day someone is making a decent<br />

quality blank. The key however is<br />

consistency... Consistency that comes<br />

with experience. Experience counts.<br />

It's trial and error through the years.<br />

It really is an ongoing chemistry<br />

experiment. You have to stand there<br />

with your head in a bucket for years<br />

to understand how the foam is going<br />

to perform. No one can teach you<br />

this stuff. You get the experience by<br />

spending years in it."<br />

Different<br />

Blanks For<br />

Different<br />

Tanks.<br />

There are two main types of foam for<br />

blanks at present. They are -<br />

1. Polyurethane<br />

2. Polystyrene.<br />

Polyurethane<br />

Blanks (PU)<br />

Way back when surfboards began<br />

featuring foam centres, after the<br />

much-publicised short board revolution<br />

in the 60’s, polyurethane foam has<br />

been, and still is, where it’s at. In <strong>2011</strong><br />

PU blanks are still very much regarded<br />

as the traditional number one choice.<br />

All the manufacturers I consulted<br />

including the iconic Barry Bennett and<br />

Graham King, concur that PU blanks<br />

account for between 70 - 80% of<br />

Australian demand in the marketplace.<br />

Barry’s son Greg told us, “We have<br />

been manufacturing PU blanks at<br />

our Brookvale factory since the 60’s.<br />

Balsa, bamboo, moulded boards,<br />

hollow aluminium boards, and epoxy<br />

materials to name just a few variants,<br />

have come and gone, but we are still<br />

flourishing here today, and more than<br />

8 out of 10 shapers or board riders still<br />

request PU blanks.”<br />

Polyurethane foam blanks are used in<br />

conjunction with polyester resins to<br />

produce what is known in the industry<br />

as a polyester, or PU surfboard.<br />

On December 5, 2005 the massive<br />

Clark Foam factory in the US shut<br />

down suddenly. Clark was the major<br />

manufacturer of PU surfboard blanks<br />

in the US and for many other parts<br />

of the world. Many speculated that<br />

Clark, who maintained a monopoly<br />

on the industry in the US, bailed<br />

out because he was sick of The<br />

Environmental Protection Agency<br />

constantly questioning the safety and<br />

health of the production processes.<br />

Initially, there was a shortage of<br />

polyurethane surfboard foam blanks<br />

in the US, triggering short term panic.<br />

Some Australian blank manufacturers<br />

like Graham King were even flown<br />

over to set up factories across the<br />

Mexican border in Tijuana. However,<br />

within a few months new foam<br />

manufacturers scrambled to set<br />

up factories ensuring Californian<br />

production didn’t really miss a beat.<br />

The more things changed the more<br />

they stayed the same. Though the<br />

debate about potential alternative<br />

materials was reinvigorated<br />

internationally post Clark closure.<br />

Some sectors of the American<br />

surf media polarised opinion by<br />

acknowledging the contributions of<br />

Graham King pours foam<br />

into the blank mould.<br />

Photo: Veage<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

133


Cut blanks, ready for glue-up with<br />

stringer at South Coast Foam<br />

GEAR: BLANKS<br />

Surftech and their offshore production technique – a hightech<br />

adaptation of the sailboard industry’s epoxy-polystyrene<br />

composite construction, manufactured in Asia.<br />

There were ripple on effects in Australia, but not in the blank<br />

production stakes. It was business as usual in Aus in terms of<br />

the numbers game. Local PU blank manufacturing production<br />

wasn’t effected at all by the Clark closure.<br />

However, post Clark, new players offered innovative imported<br />

alternatives in the Australian marketplace, including Global<br />

Surf Industries and their high profile shaper’s models.<br />

Using the current carbon tax or ETS debate in Australia as an<br />

analogy. The fear of change is inevitable in some, however,<br />

ultimately change and the establishment of a market mechanism<br />

results in healthy competition and innovation. Investment in<br />

enviro friendly sustainable renewables will flourish. The market<br />

will dictate the price.<br />

In the context of the surfboard materials debate, Styrofoam<br />

or indeed other alternatives may or may not prove to be a<br />

sustainable eco- friendly and/or performance enhancing option.<br />

In the end the market place will ultimately decide as per the ETS.<br />

Nev Hyman is a shaper that has always been at the forefront of<br />

scientific innovation. Nev believes there are not too many major<br />

exponential performance benefits to be gained from changes<br />

in shape. Nev said, “The basic design dynamics of today’s<br />

high performance surfboard have been refined to such a high<br />

standard that only incremental improvements can be made.”<br />

There are countless others in the industry who also believe<br />

further forward advancements in performance have to come<br />

from new materials and methods of construction, which in<br />

turn will allow for further changes in shape, and thereby push<br />

performance boundaries forward.<br />

Firewire team rider Taj Burrows enjoys controlled flex that<br />

supposedly does not fatigue over time, and he gets to go free<br />

surfing and tune up for competition on the same boards. But the<br />

fact is most WCT surfers still ride PU boards that are so light,<br />

they have a small amount of flex anyway. Nev points out that<br />

flex comes at the price of durability. Many lightweight PU Pro<br />

boards have to be saved for heats and<br />

that flows down to average Joe’s. I know<br />

I save my favourite light PU boards for<br />

the best days, and I’m closer to average<br />

Joe than being Joe Pro.<br />

Nev doesn’t claim Firewires are<br />

indestructible, but he points out that in<br />

the PU versus FW technology debate,<br />

the enhanced performance of controlled,<br />

sustainable flex, with the correct rate<br />

of rebound, built into a lightweight<br />

and durable FW surfboard cannot be<br />

overestimated.<br />

At the other end of the spectrum custom<br />

craftsman Dick Van Straalen shares<br />

some of Nev’s sentiments in a sense,<br />

but for entirely different reasons, mainly<br />

environmental. Dick said, “The only way<br />

we can change surfing from what it is<br />

today, is to change the materials. We are<br />

dictated to by the materials we use. The<br />

resins many still use in Australia today<br />

are nearly outlawed in many countries<br />

of the world. Epoxy is the friendliest resin<br />

out there. Urethane is gas. Urethane<br />

foam is basically a bunch of gas bubbles<br />

stuck together, as soon as you cut into the<br />

urethane you are releasing cyanide gas.”<br />

Conversely, Steve Barber from Full<br />

Force Surfboards, disagrees with claims<br />

that EPS foam is a safer option when<br />

compared to PU blanks. Steve said,<br />

“A lot of comments are made about<br />

the polyester resins shapers use with<br />

PU blanks and how their high styrene<br />

content is really poisonous. Yet what<br />

these people fail to mention is EPS foam<br />

is actually extruded poly-STYRENE!<br />

The main ingredient is styrene, the<br />

same stuff in polyester resins. When<br />

polyurethane foam is correctly mixed,<br />

the gas in the bubbles is carbon dioxide.<br />

There are no isocyanates in PU blanks if<br />

mixed correctly. As for epoxy resins, yes<br />

the resins used are relatively non-toxic<br />

but they won’t go off without Part B, the<br />

hardener, which is extremely toxic.<br />

Polystyrene Blanks<br />

There are two types of polystyrene<br />

blanks, those made of expanded<br />

polystyrene foam and those made of<br />

extruded polystyrene foam.<br />

EXPANDED POLYSTYRENE<br />

SURFBOARD BLANKS<br />

Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) foam is also<br />

known as beaded foam and features an<br />

open cell core. Surfboard foam blanks<br />

made of expanded polystyrene foam very<br />

briefly, became the major replacement<br />

surfboard blanks over polyurethane<br />

immediately after the closure of Clark<br />

Foam in the US, but within month’s<br />

new PU manufacturers popped up<br />

everywhere.<br />

EPS foam blanks are one of the two<br />

types of surfboard foams that are used<br />

as the core for epoxy surfboards.<br />

A very important difference between a<br />

polyurethane and polystyrene blank is<br />

that traditional polyester resins cannot<br />

be used with a polystyrene blank during<br />

the shaping process. This would cause<br />

134 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


EPS Foam Pellets. Photo: Stephen Woolverton<br />

the polystyrene foam to dissolve.<br />

A disadvantage of shaping a<br />

surfboard with EPS foam blank is<br />

that this type of foam can absorb<br />

water very quickly, and is not<br />

totally resistant to compression<br />

and other damage.<br />

However, generally that isn’t<br />

that much of an issue, as the<br />

epoxy resin used to cover that<br />

type of surfboard foam offers a<br />

great deal of protection due to its<br />

hardness.<br />

EPS foam blanks when they<br />

first hit the marketplace were a<br />

slightly cheaper alternative, but<br />

these days PU manufacturers<br />

like King or South Coast Foam<br />

produce a standard “6 3” for<br />

between $65 to $70. Most large<br />

PU blank manufacturers like<br />

King, South Coast Foam, Core<br />

and Bennett etc also offer refined<br />

machine shaped blanks for<br />

around $100.<br />

Carl McCarthy at South Coast<br />

Foam said, “I wouldn’t deny EPS<br />

blanks offer some potential new<br />

developments, but it is kind of a<br />

fashion thing.”<br />

EXTRUDED POLYSTYRENE<br />

SURFBOARD BLANKS<br />

Extruded polystyrene foam is the<br />

other type of polystyrene foam<br />

epoxy blanks are made of.<br />

The major advantage of this type<br />

of polystyrene surfboard blank is<br />

that it has a closed cell structure.<br />

This makes is totally water<br />

repellent. So if you do damage<br />

that extra hard epoxy surfboard<br />

covering there is absolutely no<br />

need to leave the water.<br />

In addition to that impressive<br />

fact, extruded polystyrene foam<br />

is exceptionally strong, and isn’t<br />

damaged as easily as EPS foam<br />

by compressions.<br />

Because extruded foam blanks<br />

are water resistant, surfboards<br />

shaped from these will maintain<br />

their nice white colour, and will<br />

not discolour over the years.<br />

Extruded foam surfboard blanks<br />

therefore generally result in a<br />

faster and higher performance<br />

epoxy surfboard.<br />

Where To Now?<br />

The final word fittingly or<br />

otherwise is reserved for a<br />

veteran of the industry. Greg<br />

Bennett believes none of the<br />

EPS or similar imports contribute<br />

anything to the longevity of the<br />

surfboard industry or the skill set<br />

of its workers in Aus.<br />

When quizzed on the<br />

environmental impact Greg said,<br />

“The reality is in <strong>2011</strong> we can’t<br />

be all innocent, naive and free<br />

like the famous scene featuring<br />

Baddy Treloar sanding a board<br />

outdoors in board shorts in<br />

Morning of the Earth any more.<br />

As per in any industry, you have to<br />

take the necessary precautions,<br />

and have strict industry standards<br />

in place. Yes it can be difficult to<br />

police, but the truth is there is<br />

no way to create a hazard free<br />

surfboard. The enviro benefits<br />

with epoxy are arguably quite<br />

minimal. My dad Barry is nearly<br />

80 years old and he has been in<br />

the game all his life, and he is still<br />

fighting fit.”<br />

Performance then price and<br />

sustainability I suspect will<br />

always be key when it comes to<br />

the future of surfboards, though<br />

that debate like most things in<br />

surfing is extremely subjective.<br />

Beauty they say is in the eye of<br />

the beholder.<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

135


136 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


The original 1994 Powell ad for the<br />

Sidewalk Surfer, featuring Steve Caballero<br />

WHAT’S<br />

IN YOUR<br />

SHED?<br />

It’s amazing what little<br />

treasures lie undiscovered<br />

in the old garden shed<br />

or garage. On a recent<br />

visit to the home of<br />

smorgasboarder writer<br />

Gus Brown, he pulled out<br />

this absolute gem - an<br />

early 90’s Powell Sidewalk<br />

Surfer, complete with oldschool<br />

stickers and stories.<br />

A little rough on the roll<br />

thesedays, this board saw<br />

its share of downhill action<br />

in the streets of Noosa<br />

in its day and has all the<br />

damage to show for it.<br />

“We’d find a good spot<br />

and just go for it,” says<br />

Gus. “ I replaced the back<br />

wheels with smaller ones<br />

to try and make sliding<br />

easier... It didn’t really<br />

work, so we’d just wait for<br />

the uphill to slow down<br />

and breathe out again.”<br />

So, collector-wise, what’s<br />

it worth? Who cares...<br />

The awesomeness of<br />

not-quite-vintage gear is<br />

greater than money.<br />

WHAT’S IN YOUR SHED?<br />

Share the love, laughs and<br />

enjoy 15 minutes of fame. Send<br />

a photo and your own bit of<br />

personal history to:<br />

letters@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

Main: Arbor rider Katarina Lyerly on the Cross Step 46”<br />

old-school cruiser Photo: Jeff Budro<br />

Right: The cork-deck Rally cruiser... Ecologically sound<br />

and pretty damn cool anyway.<br />

OLD’S COOL<br />

Sticking with the theme of old<br />

guys ripping it up, the friendly<br />

folks at the Boardstore on the<br />

Sunshine Coast reckon that<br />

parents are spending so much<br />

time at the skate park anyway,<br />

that they might as well<br />

re-kindle their former passion<br />

of skating.<br />

For a dad who surfs and<br />

skates, what better new toy<br />

than a cool retro-inspired<br />

skateboard by a classic surf<br />

label like Gordon & Smith?<br />

Check out the exciting new<br />

range of G&S boards that are<br />

sure to get dad off the couch<br />

and out there rolling with the<br />

best of them.<br />

ARBSOLUTE<br />

CORKER<br />

Arbor Skateboard’s <strong>September</strong><br />

collection for Australia has some<br />

crackers in the range. Brand<br />

new models making their debut<br />

include the Rally (bottom) - a<br />

little cruiser featuring a very cool<br />

cork deck, Whiskey - the new<br />

street board, the swallowtail<br />

Mission and the insane<br />

looking downhill machine,<br />

the Vugenhausen. For more<br />

info check out the website at<br />

arborcollective.com/skate<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

137


138 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong>


SKATE: IMAGES<br />

RIDER: KATE DANIEL<br />

PLACE: Byron Bay Carpark<br />

CRAFT: Early Bamboo Riser<br />

Photo by Flavio Biehl<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

139


Skateboards...<br />

TEAM RIDER DOM McGEACHIE - PHOTOS BY CHARLIE HARDY PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

...for<br />

surfers!<br />

32” FLYING FISH TAIL SKATEBOARD<br />

The ultimate in self-propelling skateboards<br />

designed for surfers. For more info, call 04<strong>07</strong> 405 390 or visit<br />

www.smoothstar.com.au<br />

140 sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

Check out video online!


MEET THE TALENT<br />

WORDS: MARK CHAPMAN<br />

MULTI-TASKING MEANS NEVER BEING BORED<br />

We’re all about covering photographic talent. Regular readers will know we give a huge chunk of space in the magazine to showcase surf photographers at all levels of<br />

their career, to put their work and passion on display and more importantly, put a face to the often forgotten names of those people behind the lens. And every week, if<br />

not every day, we also get amazing contributions of photography by readers and hobbyists as well. A few editions back, 18-year old Jarrod Slatter sent us some of his<br />

surfing pics to check out. We loved his stuff, so when we found out a bit more - that he shoots downhill skating, and skates as well - we figured he deserved a proper<br />

intruduction. So here’s Jarrod - the Cairns-born, Buderim-based student, surfer, skater and snapper....<br />

YOU SKATE, SURF AND TAKE PICS...<br />

WHAT’S THE BIGGER RUSH?<br />

That’s a hard one, taking on a hair pin<br />

or steep hill equals the rush of paddling<br />

into a big wave or making a deep barrel.<br />

Both give you that adrenaline rush that<br />

is hard to match with anything else<br />

that I’ve tried. But if I had to choose<br />

one, skating definitely gets my blood<br />

pumping a lot more... There’s nothing like<br />

chucking your board sideways at high<br />

speeds.<br />

WHAT’S YOUR GEAR SETUP?<br />

At the moment I use two cameras, both<br />

with different purposes, but my Pentax<br />

K10D with a 170-500mm Sigma lens<br />

and a 35-80mm Pentax lens is my main<br />

weapon. I also use a Fujifilm HS10 - it’s<br />

used mainly for its HD video.<br />

WHAT GOT YOU INTO<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY AND WHAT ARE<br />

YOUR INSPIRATIONS?<br />

I’ve always been in love with the ocean.<br />

When you see Mooloolaba on a big day<br />

you’ll usually find me out there body<br />

surfing it, I had a love for getting inside<br />

the barrel and just watching it.<br />

So in 2009 I bought myself a little<br />

waterproof camera and tried taking some<br />

photos in there, I ended up breaking six<br />

Olympus µTough camera’s in 2009, so I<br />

decided to upgrade to a DSLR, and from<br />

then on my love for it has been growing.<br />

Clark Little has inspired me ever since I<br />

started, but lately local guys like Matt<br />

O’Brien and Jack Dekort have been my<br />

inspiration.<br />

No slouch on the skatey<br />