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FREEBORD...<br />

SIX WHEELS TO FREEDOM ...P168<br />

URF<br />

TOWN<br />

CRONULLA<br />

HOMEGROWN<br />

INSPIRING PEOPLE UNDERTAKING<br />

MOST INSPIRING PROJECTS ...P46<br />

TRAVEL BUG<br />

SNOW AND SURF ADVENTURES<br />

ALL ‘ROUND THE GLOBE<br />

ISSUE #9 JAN/FEB <strong>2012</strong><br />

THE MAGAZINE FOR THOSE WHO LOVE TO SURF


North & South Male Charters:<br />

We have 3 boats servicing the most<br />

popular region in the Maldives starting<br />

at only $190 per person per day and<br />

you’ll be surprised how affordable our<br />

top end boat Carpe Vita is!<br />

South Male Resort: Kandooma<br />

resort has a top class right hander<br />

straight out the front and with the<br />

surf guide being employed by The<br />

Perfect Wave, you can be taken to<br />

the best surrounding breaks daily.<br />

Special <strong>Smorgasboarder</strong> Magazine Offer<br />

For any <strong>2012</strong> booking that you<br />

mention this ad you will receive a<br />

perfect wave pack that includes:<br />

discount travel voucher, DVD, T-Shirt,<br />

Cap, Stubby holder & more goodie’s.<br />

Southern Atoll Charter: From<br />

February to April you can surf the outer<br />

atolls without the crowds aboard Cobia<br />

with an experienced Aussie surf guide to<br />

get you the best waves on offer.<br />

Maldives<br />

Carpe VitaKandooma<br />

Mentawai Charters: We represent Sumatra Resort: With Wavepark &<br />

more charter boats than anyone else Macaronis & Aloita resorts in the<br />

and with our staff and management Mentawai Islands and Ombak<br />

doing regular visits to the region, we Losmen surf camp in South<br />

make sure that each boat we offer is Sumatra, we have the land lovers<br />

one of the best available.<br />

well covered in Sumatra.<br />

Cobia<br />

West Java and<br />

Panayian Islands: There are so many<br />

world class waves in this remote<br />

area, and Just Dreaming is the most<br />

experienced surf charter operating in<br />

this region.<br />

Indonesia<br />

Dbora<br />

New Caledonia:<br />

Only 2.5 hrs from the East Coast,<br />

New Cal is an island paradise with many<br />

great reef breaks and the awesome<br />

culture and food of the French.<br />

Wave Park<br />

Caroline Islands:<br />

No tourists, perfect 6 ft barrels, and<br />

a surf quota of only 8 surfers….<br />

Kosrae is the last frontier of epic<br />

uncrowded waves.<br />

Just Dreaming<br />

Papua New Guinea: A must for<br />

every surfer once in a lifetime, but<br />

most people book year after year.<br />

With two charters and two surf<br />

retreats we have what you need to<br />

experience this amazing destination.<br />

South Pacific<br />

New Caledonia Surf Charters<br />

Kosrae<br />

PNG Explorer


The perfect wave has the largest range<br />

of products for you to choose from,<br />

with options perfect for couples,<br />

families or that ‘boys only’ getaway<br />

Southern Atoll Charter:<br />

The first ‘surf camp’ to open in the Maldives<br />

and is exclusive to The Perfect Wave<br />

Travel Co. Cokes Surf Camp is in the village<br />

of Thulusdhoo in North Male Atoll where the<br />

mighty ‘COKES’ point offers the best right<br />

hand point break in the Maldives<br />

Outer Atoll Charters: If you haven’t<br />

discovered the central atolls then it<br />

is time to, with so many uncrowded<br />

breaks on offer you will want to keep<br />

going back, year after year.<br />

info@theperfectwave.com.au<br />

North Male Resort:<br />

An old favourite in North Male,<br />

you have Lohis surf break at<br />

your doorstep and another 6<br />

top class waves within a few<br />

kilometres.<br />

Cokes Surf Camp<br />

Roti & Timor: With the most experienced<br />

surf charter in the area, Sri Noa<br />

Noa, you can enjoy this relatively undiscovered<br />

area with confidence.<br />

Nautilus<br />

Bali and Lembongan: From Balian to<br />

Nusa Lembongan we have a massive<br />

amount of quality accommodation<br />

from surf camps to villas to 5 star<br />

resorts, we can make sure you make<br />

the right choice.<br />

Hudhuran Fushi<br />

Lombok and Sumbawa Surf world<br />

famous breaks like, Desert Point, Scar<br />

Reef, Lakey Peak & Outside Ekas from<br />

one of our popular charter boats or<br />

surf camps.<br />

Sri Noa Noa<br />

Fiji: We have more resorts and accommodation<br />

that will give you access to<br />

the world class waves of Fiji, and we also<br />

have a surf charter that can take you to<br />

many other less known breaks.<br />

Batu Karang Resort<br />

Samoa: Recovery of the Islands has<br />

been a big job, but the Samoans<br />

are ready to welcome you back to<br />

enjoy their island paradise.<br />

Dreamweaver<br />

Tahiti: Teahupoo needs no introduction<br />

and we have some great accommodation<br />

right at the break. The rest of<br />

Tahiti has many other breaks that we<br />

can help you get to as well<br />

Matanvusi Eco Resort<br />

Sinalei<br />

Ph: 1300 00WAVE<br />

Intercontinental Moorea<br />

www.theperfectwave.com.au


DETAILS & THINGS<br />

WHERE TO PICK SMORGASBOARDER UP<br />

Quality surf stores, shapers and cool cafes on the coast of Queensland,<br />

New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia and Tasmania. For a full list<br />

of distributors, visit the directory in the back of the mag or just get to your<br />

local surf shop and talk to some real people, in the flesh. If you see a local<br />

store advertising, please support them! They’ll also have the lion’s share<br />

of mags in your area. smorgasboarder is published six times a year.<br />

CAN’T GET THERE? SUBSCRIBE<br />

If you can’t get to a store, have smorgasboarder delivered to<br />

your door. The mag’s still free, but Australia Post need to get paid.<br />

$18 IN AUSTRALIA GETS YOU SIX EDITIONS.<br />

Sign up at www.smorgasboarder.com.au. It’ll arrive<br />

every two months. Back issues are available for $5 per copy.<br />

THE COVER SHOT<br />

Terapai Richmond is well respected in Cronulla. He is one of<br />

those talented people that can do anything and he doesn’t<br />

seem to be trying. He is obviously an excellent tube rider.<br />

He charges the reefs around Cronulla with no fanfare. He’s<br />

a ridiculously talented soccer player and drummer, in the<br />

The Whitlams, his own band called Directions In Groove.<br />

and he often works as a session drummer for all the<br />

international touring stars. Here’s “The Pieman” standing<br />

tall at Cronulla Point in June 2011. Photo Brad Whittaker/<br />

oceanart.com.au courtesy of Sutherland Shire Council.<br />

For more about Cronulla, see Page 110.<br />

BOYS & GIRLS OF SMORGASBOARDER<br />

LOTS OF STUFF & ADVERTISING<br />

Dave Swan dave@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0401 345 201<br />

SYDNEY STUFF<br />

Ben Horvath<br />

ben@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0401 362 788<br />

LOTS OF STUFF & DESIGN<br />

Mark Chapman mark@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0400 875 884<br />

SOUTH AUSTRALIAN STUFF<br />

James Ellis james@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0410 175 552<br />

STUFF, ACCOUNTS & EVERYTHING ELSE<br />

Louise Gough advertising@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

MORE DESIGN STUFF: Dean Slockee<br />

PROOFING, TEST STUFF & STUNTS: Gus Brown<br />

CONTRIBUTORS<br />

Thank you so much to all you talented champions. Without you, we would<br />

only have stories about two bald guys doing dumb crap all the time.<br />

Ideas & submissions: editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

WWW.SMORGASBOARDER.COM.AU<br />

smorgasboarder is published by Huge C Media Pty Ltd<br />

ABN 3<strong>09</strong>44673055. All information is correct at time of going to press.<br />

The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in articles or<br />

advertisements, or unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations.<br />

The opinions and words of the authors do not necessarily represent those<br />

of the publisher. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or whole is strictly<br />

prohibited without prior permission.<br />

We print with Pep Central<br />

and Craft Inprint Group, an<br />

environmentally aware and<br />

committed printer whose business<br />

is founded upon the principles of<br />

minimising waste and maximising<br />

recycling. Nice work.<br />

6 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

7


LATEST: WELCOME<br />

IMITATION<br />

IS THE<br />

SINCEREST<br />

FORM OF<br />

FLATTERY<br />

It’s true. You may have a unique idea or an innovative approach to<br />

something that soon has everyone copying you.<br />

At first it’s hard to take, after all it’s ‘yours’ not ‘theirs’. After a while you<br />

settle down, simply content in knowing you were ‘right’ and not going crazy.<br />

It’s the theme on which we’ve based this latest edition of smorgasboarder.<br />

We talk with a number of home board builders about their passion for<br />

shaping boards, namely wooden ones. This ‘Splinter Group’ of amateur<br />

enthusiasts are truly paying the ultimate homage to the artisan skills of<br />

shapers by striving to replicate their masterwork, all the while gaining a<br />

true appreciation for the craftsmanship involved.<br />

Mark and I join in and try our hand at shaping alaias for the first time.<br />

Inspired by the work of renowned shapers such as Tom Wegener and<br />

Geoff McCoy, I looked to employ a number of their design theories within<br />

my own board. Mark, on the other hand, tried his best to recreate a<br />

wooden version of the rocket ship from Lost in Space.<br />

Speaking of Geoff McCoy, we talk with the ever-candid, legendary shaper<br />

about the evolution of his thick, wide-tailed, single fin designs - from the<br />

Lazor Zap through to the Astron Zot. Challenged by many through the<br />

years over the validity of his designs, it’s interesting to note how often the<br />

latest models from shapers today take on a similar plan shape.<br />

On the skate side of things, we feature the revolutionary Freebord, a<br />

skateboard that is not really anything like a skateboard. It in fact imitates<br />

the feel of a snowboard, just on wheels.<br />

And on that note, I’ll leave you to get stuck into this exciting new edition<br />

and sign off with my imitation signature.<br />

Dave<br />

8 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


Bob McTavish<br />

Fireball - 9’1” & 9’6”<br />

Stylist - 9’0”<br />

Carver - 7’6” & 8’0”<br />

MAIN: Shellharbour photographer-on-holiday Jay Schmitzer<br />

imitates a dolphin to snap this beautiful empty in Coffs Harbour<br />

SURFTECH AUSTRALIA<br />

www.surftechaustralia.com.au<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

9<br />

02 4226 1322


R: Rodger Eales | P: Aaron Schall<br />

SEE OUR ENTIRE<br />

WATCH OUR VIDEOS AT<br />

YOUTUBE.COM/ARBORCOLLECTIVE<br />

DEALER: INFO@FUTURESPORT.COM.AU PH: (02) 4365 1838<br />

CONNECT WITH US AT: FACEBOOK.COM/ARBORCOLLECTIVE<br />

10 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


INSIDE THIS ISSUE<br />

12<br />

35<br />

46<br />

66<br />

86<br />

LADIES FIRST<br />

Enjoy a double-dose<br />

of the better half of<br />

the surfing family<br />

A CLICK IN TIME<br />

Celebrate 100 years<br />

of Australian surfing<br />

photography<br />

HOME BUILDERS<br />

Take a look inside the<br />

lives of passionate<br />

backyard board builders<br />

ROUND TWO<br />

The second clash of<br />

wannabes - Dave and<br />

Mark shape-off again<br />

INDIAN OCEAN<br />

Take a trip to Reunion<br />

Island with travel<br />

character, Jay Killvan<br />

ALL THE USUAL BITS<br />

THE LATEST<br />

16 Feedback & Reader Photos<br />

28 News & Community<br />

TRAVEL<br />

86 Surfing Reunion Island<br />

96 Snowboarding in Niseko<br />

GEAR<br />

139 The shaper’s apprentice<br />

140 Theories of Geoff McCoy<br />

148 New board designs<br />

167 Skate safety<br />

176 Test everything<br />

CLOSEOUT<br />

180 Reviews and fashion<br />

184 Counter culture: Underground<br />

192 Relax<br />

FEET<br />

FIRST<br />

110<br />

168<br />

182<br />

CRONULLA<br />

Local Ben Horvath<br />

introduces us to the<br />

people and the place<br />

SIX WHEEL PSYCHO<br />

SKATEBOARDING<br />

FEATURE: Discover the<br />

revolutionary Freebord<br />

TO THE GALLERY<br />

We talk to a Gold Coast<br />

surfboard spray artist<br />

turned fine artist<br />

A very classy dismount caught by<br />

Wollongong photographer Clarrie<br />

Bouma - our featured snapper this<br />

edition. For more about the man, his<br />

life and his fantastic work, see the<br />

interview starting on Page 76<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

11


LADIES FIRST<br />

Tammy and friend Tash enjoying Caloundra’s mellow days. PHOTOS: Supplied<br />

INTRODUCED TO SURFING<br />

LATE IN LIFE, TAMMY<br />

PASCOE DISCOVERED<br />

SHE WAS A FANATICAL<br />

SURFER AT HEART.<br />

WORDS: DAVE SWAN<br />

12 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


“I was living in London, really homesick. I met<br />

this guy and we planned to buy a Bedford van to<br />

travel around Europe.<br />

“When the guy we were buying the van from<br />

heard we were from Australia, his eyes lit up.<br />

He thought being from there we must know how<br />

to surf. He was just so animated when he talked<br />

about surfing that I thought to myself there really<br />

must be something to it.<br />

“He said to us, ‘That’s how you should travel<br />

Europe. Follow the surf.’<br />

“I rang my cousin back in Australia and asked him<br />

where I might be able to get a board. He told me<br />

the only place he really knew of was Goodtime.<br />

So I rang them.<br />

“I was working as a nurse on night shift at the<br />

time and during a break decided it was the<br />

perfect time to ring Australia, given the time<br />

difference. So here I was feeding coins into a pay<br />

phone and Gail Austen, the owner of Goodtime,<br />

picks up the phone. I started asking her whether<br />

I was too old to learn to surf. I told her I was 26<br />

years of age and all my friends back on the Gold<br />

Coast thought I was nuts, particularly considering<br />

the fact I was living in England.<br />

“Gail arranged to send me over this mini mal. The<br />

board bag arrived and to my surprise, Gail had<br />

also packed it with all these surf clothes and a<br />

note that just said, ‘Good on you for giving it a<br />

shot. Go for it. Surfing will change your life.’ That<br />

was in 1998.<br />

“When I got the board I went straight down<br />

to Croyde Bay near Devon. It was the middle<br />

of winter and I was too tight to hire a wetsuit,<br />

because I wanted to have beers that night<br />

(laughs) so I went out with just a wetshirt. I<br />

stayed out there though because I was really<br />

interested.<br />

“I had no idea what I was doing. The first day I<br />

didn’t do anything. On the second day I caught my<br />

first wave. I thought it was the best thing.”<br />

Tammy had officially caught the bug and headed<br />

off to surf spots such Ericeira and Figueira do Foz<br />

in Portugal, Mundaka in Spain and Hossegor in<br />

France. She soon came to realise learning<br />

to surf in Europe was a lot harder than it<br />

could be back home and decided to move<br />

back to the Gold Coast.<br />

For the next eight months she worked<br />

as a nurse on the late shift and surfed<br />

every morning for three hours or<br />

more. But what was it exactly that<br />

got her hooked so well and truly?<br />

“Surfing changed my whole body,<br />

my whole attitude,” she says<br />

enthusiastically.<br />

“I was a pretty impatient person.<br />

When it came to surfing, I was<br />

a slow learner. It challenged<br />

me to show a little more heart<br />

and be patient with myself. It<br />

also gave me a great deal more<br />

respect for the ocean. I had no idea how much<br />

you could get out of it.<br />

“I still remember getting that rush for the first<br />

time when I caught my first green wave... My<br />

eyes felt bigger than my head.”<br />

Tammy’s other great love is yoga, which she<br />

discovered thanks to surfing.<br />

“I was told yoga would help with my surfing and<br />

make me be a nicer person (laughs)... Well, at<br />

least a little more patient. Patience didn’t come<br />

naturally to me.<br />

“When I first started practicing yoga, I found it<br />

taught me to concentrate, focus and just enjoy<br />

what was happening at that particular moment<br />

and to not take everything so seriously... To learn<br />

to laugh at myself.<br />

“Power yoga helped with my upper body strength.<br />

I was a stick-person with no upper body strength<br />

and I found it really hard to push myself up on my<br />

board. Power yoga changed that.”<br />

So dedicated was Tammy to yoga that she<br />

became an instructor, registering her own<br />

business, Yoga NRG, in 2006.<br />

“I used to go down to Moffs (Moffat Beach,<br />

Caloundra) to practice yoga and watch the<br />

sunrise. A few ladies asked if I taught, and having<br />

just completed my teaching training, I started a<br />

class on Friday mornings. More and more ladies<br />

started coming down and I thought maybe I would<br />

like to do this full time.”<br />

The combined passion for yoga and surfing led<br />

Tammy to the next phase of her business career<br />

- surf and yoga retreats that she now runs with a<br />

close friend, Belinda Wehner.<br />

“Surfing and yoga had changed my life, so I just<br />

created my business around what I love.”<br />

Gerry LOpez<br />

Surf Music - 9’6” & 10’<br />

Big Darling - 10’6” & 11’2”<br />

Lil’ Darling - 8’11”<br />

Sweetie Pie - 8’10”<br />

Sweetie Pie Ultraflx - 8’5” & 9’4”<br />

TAMMY PASCOE is the founder of Yoga NRG. As well as a range of yoga classes, including the<br />

popular beach sessions, they schedule regular surf and yoga retreats. www.yoga-nrg.com<br />

SURFTECH AUSTRALIA<br />

www.surftechaustralia.com.au<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

13<br />

02 4226 1322


LADIES FIRST<br />

First Love, a surf movie released in early 2011, tells<br />

the story of three local girls from Phillip Island, Jess<br />

Laing, Nikki Van Dijk and India Payne in a quest to<br />

cut it with the pros in Hawaii.<br />

Along the way, we follow their lives and see what<br />

it’s like to surf through a freezing winter in Victoria,<br />

cope with school, illness and injuries and how it all<br />

affects their lives and their families. We also get to<br />

see some amazing surfing from these talented young<br />

women as they show the training, determination<br />

and fun you can have when you dedicate yourself to<br />

something you love.<br />

I caught up with Jess Laing - narrator and co-star of<br />

the film - to discuss surfing, life and how things have<br />

changed in the past year since the movie’s release.<br />

HOW DID YOUR INVOLVEMENT IN ‘FIRST LOVE’<br />

COME ABOUT?<br />

Director Claire Gorman started filming Nikki and then<br />

she contacted me via email and asked if she could<br />

do some filming of me and I was like ‘yeah sure’. I<br />

remember asking her, ‘How about we get India on<br />

board as well?’ So, she just started filming all three<br />

of us and it all grew from there. It was pretty weird<br />

how it all happened.<br />

14 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

HOW DID THE EXPERIENCE CHANGE YOU AS A<br />

SURFER AND A PERSON?<br />

I got used to having a camera in my face all the time.<br />

And it was just really weird, all of a sudden we’ve<br />

gone from just being surfers on the island and then<br />

were standing in front of big crowds and everyone’s<br />

coming to watch us film and we’re answering<br />

questions in front of four hundred people, which was<br />

really big and scary and really cool to be able to do<br />

something like that.<br />

HAVE PEOPLE CONTACTED YOU FROM ANY<br />

STRANGE PLACES?<br />

Well, First Love has a website and people have been<br />

saying ‘When’s the film coming to Germany or the<br />

US?’ and stuff like that. I never expected because<br />

we thought it would be just a local surf film.<br />

A lot of people have also come to me on Facebook<br />

and messaged me through there and said the movie<br />

has influenced them to surf, or they’ve been through<br />

an injury like I had during filming, so it’s good that<br />

people are actually getting something out of it. It<br />

has mostly been people from Australia that have<br />

contacted me so far.<br />

YOUR CO-CONSPIRATORS IN FIRST LOVE, NIKKI<br />

AND INDIA... WHAT ARE THEY UP TO NOW?<br />

India’s busy doing Year 12 but she’s almost finished.<br />

Nikki’s in Year 11 and she’s doing as much school as<br />

she can as well as travelling around and competing<br />

in places like Sri Lanka. She’ll finish school next year.<br />

YOU’VE BATTLED THE ‘TIRED WAR’ AGAINST<br />

CHRONIC FATIGUE SYNDROME FOR SEVEN<br />

LONG YEARS AND YOU ENDURED A SHOULDER<br />

RECONSTRUCTION DURING THE FILMING OF FIRST<br />

LOVE. HOW HAS THIS IMPACTED YOU AND YOUR<br />

FAMILY ON A DAY-TO-DAY BASIS?<br />

The chronic fatigue was really hard and the family<br />

had to deal with me every day being grumpy, sick,<br />

tired... well... exhausted and, I guess, I couldn’t do<br />

things that my friends were doing, like sleepovers<br />

and stuff like that. It made it really hard, not just for<br />

me, but everyone in my family.<br />

But my surfing was just something that could help<br />

me push through. Then I had to have the shoulder<br />

reconstruction, which made it so much harder<br />

because I couldn’t surf and was just lying on the<br />

couch going crazy in the middle of winter. It was so<br />

hard for everyone, not just me.


WHEN THE SWELL DIES OR THE WINDS GO<br />

ONSHORE WHAT DO YOU DO TO STAY GROUNDED?<br />

There’s always surf around here, but I do catch<br />

up with friends and I like reading, even though<br />

I haven’t read in ages. I like to take photos and<br />

that’s something I’m always going to do. I like most<br />

modern music, as well as Dad’s old music because<br />

it has actual words and it’s music that you can sing<br />

along to.<br />

BEING PART OF A FAMILY THAT ARE ALL<br />

INVOLVED IN SURFING, HOW MUCH ABOUT THE<br />

HISTORY OF SURFING, SURFERS AND OLD BOARDS<br />

HAVE RUBBED OFF ON YOU?<br />

I don’t know. I’ve never really got into it but that’s<br />

something that I will do because Dad’s old boards<br />

are cool and I like that sort of stuff. But Dad and<br />

Dano are telling me to get on an old single fin to<br />

slow my surfing down, and I do it, but I just get<br />

really angry because it’s so different and it’s not<br />

going anywhere. (laughs)<br />

WHAT DO YOU THINK OF HOW FEMALE SURFERS<br />

ARE PORTRAYED IN TODAY’S SURF MEDIA?<br />

I think it’s getting better with the fact that female<br />

surfers are getting better and there are more girls in<br />

the water. There are girls out there now that would<br />

kick some of the guy’s butts, which would have not<br />

happened a few years ago.<br />

But they’re not getting enough attention. That’s why<br />

I think the whole competition thing is just dropping<br />

off. We go to a competition and get half the amount<br />

of money the guys do and it’s not right, because it’s<br />

costing us the same amount to get there. But you<br />

hardly see girl surfers in surf magazines. I think the<br />

media has just turned, actually and their looking<br />

for the whole lifestyle, someone who’s a surfer and<br />

plays guitar or is an artist.<br />

WHAT DOES THE WORD ‘LOVE’ MEAN TO YOU?<br />

I’ll relate it back to surfing. It’s something that’s<br />

always there for you and something you can have<br />

fun with. It’s not going to let you down and you can<br />

trust it. You can’t live without love in your life.<br />

FOR MORE ON THE MOVIE AND TO WATCH THE TRAILER, VISIT WWW.FIRSTLOVETHEFILM.COM<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

15


Somewhere in Western Australia.<br />

Jarrod Slatter lets us in on a fun little wave from the west.<br />

Photo: Jarrod Slatter<br />

16 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


READER PICS<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

17


Miles Livingstone, Moffat Beach<br />

Photo: Peter Pacoe<br />

READER PICS<br />

18 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


Lives in Toowoomba, surfs on the Sunshine Coast . Now that’s<br />

dedication. GoPro self-portraits by Matthew Rutherfoord<br />

Hobie ATR<br />

Standup Paddle Board<br />

Ideal for Flat Water,<br />

Downwind and Surf<br />

12’ 11’2” 10’6”<br />

Deck grip included.<br />

Hobie<br />

innovators in the<br />

surf industry for over<br />

50 years.<br />

Check our website or<br />

drop in to see the full<br />

range of Hobie surf &<br />

race SUPs.<br />

SCOTT LOVIG HOBIE<br />

12c Satu Way, Mornington, VIC 3931<br />

TEL: (03) 59 756 399<br />

FAX: (03) 59 756 311<br />

9am till 5pm Monday to Saturday<br />

Closed Sundays and Public Holidays<br />

www.slhobie.com.au<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

19


Since 1971<br />

“is what surfing is all about”<br />

www.goodtime.com.au<br />

Goodtime Surf & Sail<br />

29 Ipswich Road, Woolloongabba, Brisbane<br />

07 3391 8588<br />

info@goodtime.com.au<br />

JOIN US ON FACEBOOK!<br />

TAKE A VIRTUAL TOUR OF<br />

THE SHOP WITH OUR ONLINE<br />

VIDEO WALK-THROUGH<br />

Come 20 and jan/feb see <strong>2012</strong> Gail and the Goodtime team at the Gabba


letters@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

LETTERS<br />

“MICK RE-AFFIRMED THAT<br />

THERE ARE PLENTY OF<br />

GREAT SPORTSMEN AND<br />

WOMEN WHO HAVEN’T<br />

FORGOTTEN WHERE THEY<br />

CAME FROM.”<br />

MICK’S A HIT<br />

My 13 year old son, Ben, is an avid<br />

‘smorgasboarder’ who tells me<br />

that your magazine is not about<br />

name brands and is for everyday<br />

surfers like him and his mates.<br />

Flicking through one of your recent<br />

issues I see what Ben meant when<br />

I noticed the absence of “name<br />

brand” ads and read articles about<br />

beaches like Caloundra, where<br />

Ben surfs. The fact your magazine<br />

is free is an absolute bonus for<br />

us parents and also instills in kids<br />

that there is more to surfing than<br />

brands and sponsored surfers.<br />

However, I’d love to let your<br />

readers know about a recent<br />

encounter Ben had with Mick<br />

Fanning at Snapper Rocks just<br />

before Christmas. While you<br />

hear many stories about sports<br />

stars behaving badly, Mick was<br />

absolutely sensational when Ben<br />

asked him for a photo.<br />

Mick was very engaging and took<br />

the time to shake hands and ask<br />

Ben how he was going. Mick<br />

re-affirmed that there are plenty<br />

of great sportsmen and women<br />

who haven’t forgotten where they<br />

came from. Mick has a lifelong fan<br />

in Ben (and Ben’s parents!) now,<br />

what a legend!<br />

Tania Cross, Shorncliffe, Qld<br />

Good blokes are good blokes, pro<br />

or no. Good job, mum!<br />

STAY STUCK...<br />

Lake surfing... Mike rides<br />

one of his handmade boards<br />

Stick It wax was formulated to stick to your board<br />

better than any other wax on the global market. Stick It<br />

doesn’t get bare patches and will often last over 3 times<br />

longer than your average wax giving you a longer more<br />

comfortable surfing session time after time!<br />

LOVE FROM THE LAKES<br />

Mike Roberson from the USA. I just wanted to let you know I thought<br />

your last magazine was the best yet. You got me longing to get down<br />

to Australia. I even looked into airfare. Once my kids get a little older<br />

we are going to make the trip.<br />

Mike Roberson, Grand Haven, Michigan USA<br />

For more information, see<br />

WWW.STICKITGROUP.COM<br />

TROPICAL • WARM • COOL • COLD • ALL WATER<br />

Jake Thompson<br />

Thanks Mike - it’s great to know the word is spreading so far and<br />

wide. Make sure you book that holiday!<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

21


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22 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

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WINNER<br />

THE XXX! MOMENT<br />

A SNAPBACK<br />

LIKE NO OTHER<br />

I was surfing Turtles on Java with one other - a bloke called Guy from WA. My<br />

wife and another surfer sat on the beach watching.<br />

We both caught bombs and were paddling out together with the sound of the<br />

two spectators hooting from the beach when Guy says, “Sounds like Kym’s<br />

shouting crocodile?!”<br />

Now my hearing ain’t great at the best of times but when we looked around and<br />

saw both of them giving the internationally recognised symbol for crocodile (you<br />

know the one: arms out jaw like, fingers like teeth, open and close) we decided<br />

it was probably best to catch one in.<br />

Turns out they’d seen something just along the beach, gone to investigate and<br />

as they got closer realised it was a three-metre salty, just as the critter slipped<br />

back into the sea! It didn’t stay there for long though and was soon back to<br />

sunbaking.<br />

Locals called other locals who turned up with ropes and ‘Irwined’ it. The obvious<br />

question was, what the hell is a salty doing on a beach on Java? It turns out the<br />

answer was more incredible than the fact.<br />

A new power station is being built about 50km north of Turtles and the site<br />

kept getting ripped off, so some bright spark decides to build a moat around the<br />

site and import six crocs to put in it. I’m not even making this up. Anyhow, wet<br />

season comes, moat fills up, four of them go walkabout. One had already turned<br />

up at Cimaja, much to the delight of the restaurant owners. Ours at Turtles was<br />

taken away by Park Rangers and two were/are still at large.<br />

Only in Indo!<br />

Gary Young, Kiels Mountain, QLD Enjoy your new Triple-X wetsuit, Gary!<br />

“What the hell is<br />

a salty doing on a<br />

beach on Java?”<br />

Share your Triple X moment and win a terrific<br />

Long-Arm Spring suit from Triple X Wetsuits,<br />

The hottest wetsuit you’ll ever wear.<br />

letters@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

23


Short boards, mini<br />

mals, mals, logs, fishes,<br />

alaias, whatever you<br />

have laying around in<br />

the shed or even your<br />

pride and joy sitting<br />

in the lounge room...<br />

We want it!<br />

HOW IT WORKS...<br />

1. Get in touch! Either call or e-mail us<br />

2. Tell us about the board you want to trade and<br />

what new gear you’re after - SUP, surf, kite or wake!<br />

3. Send us a current picture of your<br />

board. We’ll evaluate the trade-in<br />

price and let you know how much it<br />

is worth against your purchase<br />

4. We agree on a price and organise the<br />

collection of your old surfboard and freight<br />

your new board or gear to your door!<br />

WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?<br />

CONTACT US TODAY and trade that<br />

old surfboard for some new gear!<br />

SAVE $!!<br />

Trade in your old<br />

SURFBOARD<br />

against a brand new SUP,<br />

surfboard, kiteboard or<br />

other gear<br />

INTERSTATE?<br />

NO WORRIES!<br />

We’ll even arrange<br />

freight and collection!<br />

SWITCH YOUR THINKING<br />

The sport of surfing has spawned many other board sports. Skateboarding,<br />

windsurfing, snowboarding, wakeboarding and kiteboarding come to mind.<br />

All of these offshoots of surfing have left surfing for dead in one area:<br />

riding ambidextrous - or going switchfoot.<br />

Most surfers go through their whole lives without even trying to surf the<br />

other way. Their ego stops them as they don’t want to look like a kook. As<br />

a goofy footer on the North Coast surfing mostly right handers, if the wave<br />

has an easy take-off, I go switch. The excitement level is raised just doing<br />

any turn, and getting barreled is amazing.<br />

Anybody out there that wants to try, start going switchfoot on your<br />

skateboard down a gentle slope. Getting your back foot to learn how to<br />

turn is the hardest bit. When you feel comfortable turning the skateboard<br />

into tighter turns, the next step is trying to surf switchfoot. The easiest way<br />

is find a nice, peeling wave, about a metre high. Take off kneeling up and<br />

when you feel in control jump up switchfoot with your hands on the rails<br />

until you stabilize.<br />

Jeffrey’s Bay is pumping three-metre waves. A surfer takes off goofy and<br />

blasts a couple of vertical backhand re-entries on the big walls of the Bay.<br />

He does a cutback, switches feet and then flies along the Supertubes<br />

section getting barreled naturally...<br />

We have tow in surfing, carving surfing and aerial surfing. The future of<br />

surfing is being able to do all types of surfing switchfoot.<br />

Ian Brown, Broken Head<br />

You are spot on Ian - switch is the way to go. Plus, it will give me a better<br />

excuse for being a kook in general.<br />

LE LEGROPE... HAW! HAW!<br />

Hi Just writing to let you know that the history of the<br />

leash is wrong. Enclosed are some notes from a mag dated June 1965 -<br />

International Surfing Vol 1 No 4.<br />

Mick Kershler, Anna Bay<br />

NOTE: The little article (above) shows a French man, Durcodoy, with<br />

‘new device to keep from losing his board.’ The writer goes on to say<br />

‘Personally, I’d rather take a swim than have my leg snapped off.’<br />

Thanks Mick! We followed up on that for you... According to our history<br />

man, Ondi, there were most definitely a number of earlier ways that<br />

people were trying as leg ropes in a personal capacity. They tied all<br />

sorts to themselves to avoid the swim, but the 70s kudos to Pat O’Neill<br />

is specifically for the first leash to go into production - essentially the<br />

beginning of the leash as we know it today.<br />

LEFT: Leash history BELOW: Mick with his surf collection<br />

letters@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

LETTERS<br />

24 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

25


SURFECTION • MICKEY RAT SURF • SHOP TAHITI • SURFRIDER TAHITI • SALTWATER<br />

WINE • MARINE CORAIL • EVOLUTION • ATOLL ADVENTURES • SAVAII SURFARIS • LOCAL<br />

MOTION • GOLDEN BREED • GLOBAL SURFTAG • FAITH • SALTWATER SURF SCHOOL •<br />

TRENT MUNRO SURF • ACADEMY • CHEYNE HORAN SURF SCHOOL • LEE WINKLER SURF<br />

SCHOOL • SOULRIDER SURF SCHOOL • SURF CAMP AUSTRALIA • MARGARET RIVER SURF<br />

SCHOOL • PORT STEPHENS SURF SCHOOL • ASP EVENTS • LE-BA BOARDRIDERS • BAR<br />

BEACH BOARDRIDERS • MERIMBULA BOARDRIDERS • YURAYGIR BOARDRIDERS • ALBANY<br />

BOARDRIDERS • SCOTT HEAD BOARDRIDERS • HALF TIDE BOARDRIDERS • EVANS HEAD<br />

LONGBOARDERS • NSW LONGBOARDERS • LENNOX LONGBOARDERS • BALLINA MALIBU<br />

Get your<br />

personalised<br />

gear printed by<br />

Triple-X today!<br />

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Contact us for<br />

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info@triple-X.com.au<br />

FREE STUFF!<br />

We just love free stuff and have heaps to give away, so here it all is...<br />

1. BE SOMEBODY<br />

Fancy yourself as a surfboard designer or shaper? Well,<br />

you can learn from one of the best! The man credited with<br />

developing the skills of manufacturers around the world, Peter<br />

White from Classic Malibu, is giving you the chance to show<br />

your skills, learn some new ones and become... The Shaper’s<br />

Apprentice. See page 139 for more information.<br />

2. OUT OF BODY<br />

Have you experienced a XXX! moment? Got a scary tale to<br />

tell or a death-defying photo of you in the surf? Send it in to<br />

win a terrific long-arm spring suit from Triple X Wetsuits. The<br />

hottest wetsuit you will ever wear. See page 23 for more.<br />

3. EVERYBODY<br />

Send us a photo of your ‘tribe’ on a wave, whether it be your<br />

family or friends - we want them all together in the one shot.<br />

The winning photo will get this great backpack, leg rope and<br />

cork eco deck grip from the guys at Wave Tribe.<br />

4. ABLE BODY<br />

We’re the mag for everyday people and everyday people like<br />

you, me in demand. Arbor Skateboards are looking for a new<br />

team rider to be the face of their next marketing campaign.<br />

If you can skate, look like a normal dude or dudette, send us<br />

some photos of you ripping and you may just end up in here,<br />

sporting some free Arbor gear!<br />

5. ANYBODY<br />

Speaking of skating, new retro cruiser brand OBFive<br />

Skateboards has given us a couple of limited edition<br />

skateboards to hand over. That’s right - two of only 10 out<br />

there, so you can feel extra special. Tell us which of their<br />

boards is your favourite and why. To decide, check out their<br />

facebook page (look for obfiveskateboards on Facebook) and<br />

hey, like their page while you’re there! Say g’day from us.<br />

6. COVER THAT BODY<br />

The latest beach fashion from Amsterdam, Zand Skirts is here!<br />

To be the first to own one of these funky wraparound skirts,<br />

just drop us an email and tell us why you need one!<br />

7. EVEN NOBODY<br />

Even nobody’s are in demand. If you can’t really make claim<br />

to any sort of greatness but can surf and have a mate who<br />

will snap some photos, send them in and you just may be the<br />

face of GAS Fins in our March edition. See the GAS Fins ad on<br />

page 151 for more details.<br />

8. AND EVERYBODY ELSE<br />

We just want to see more and more of you in the mag.<br />

Hopefully you get the picture by now, and better still, will send<br />

it to us! Send us photos of you surfing, skating, snowboarding<br />

or most-anything-boarding. If it goes into the mag, you get<br />

yourself a cool t-shirt, cap or beanie from Surf Decals!<br />

Zand Skirts<br />

Wave Tribe gear<br />

GAS Fins<br />

Surf Decals<br />

gear<br />

OB Five Skateboards<br />

Arbor<br />

Skateboards<br />

1300 483 634<br />

WWW.TRIPLE-X.COM.AU<br />

26 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

Or vent, praise, discuss... Send us an interesting letter, email<br />

or rant and if it makes its way into our next edition you win<br />

yourself a copy of the surf thriller Caught Inside personally<br />

signed by none other than Ben Oxenbould!<br />

SO SIMPLE<br />

Just hit us up on competitions@smorgasboarder.com.au with<br />

what you’re entering as the subject.<br />

Caught Inside DVD


jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

27


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More boards than<br />

you can poke a log at.<br />

Best ding repairs in town.<br />

392 Harbour Drive, The Jetty Strip, Coffs Harbour NSW<br />

Phone: 02 6658 0223 www.thelogshack.com.au<br />

THIS IS THE<br />

NEWS<br />

WHAT’S HAPPENING AROUND OUR SIDE OF THE COAST<br />

editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

OUT OF THE BLUE, INTO<br />

THE POWDER<br />

If you’re looking for a break from<br />

the crowds out on the waves, now<br />

is the time to score some cracking<br />

packages to the snowfields of<br />

Japan. It’s a great way to help<br />

the people of Japan get back on<br />

their feet after the devastating<br />

earthquake and tsunami that hit in<br />

March 2011. Snow and Surf Travel<br />

Company and SkiJapan.com have<br />

unbelievable packages to the Land<br />

of the Rising Sun. To read more see<br />

our story on Page 96.<br />

EARTH FRIENDLY RESIN<br />

Speaking of natural disasters,<br />

let’s avoid making matters worse<br />

by doing our best to protect<br />

the environment. Entropy Resin<br />

is the industry’s FIRST USDA<br />

BioPreferredSM Certified liquid<br />

epoxy resin product. Apparently<br />

this resin has low sensitising<br />

ingredients for increased user<br />

safety. Its low viscosity means it<br />

can be used on all foam and wood<br />

blanks. For more details see www.<br />

surfinggreen.com.au<br />

AWARDS GALORE<br />

FOR HOLIDAY PARKS<br />

North Coast Holiday Parks’ 23<br />

holiday parks along the NSW<br />

North Coast have recently won a<br />

stack of awards. Clarkes Beach<br />

at Byron Bay has won all this<br />

in 2011 – The Gold Gumnut for<br />

sustainable environmental and<br />

socially responsible management,<br />

Environmental Excellence Award,<br />

Eco-friendly star accreditation<br />

from AAA and was voted one of<br />

Australia’s Top 10 Eco parks for<br />

2011 by the readers of Holiday<br />

with Kids magazine. Other parks<br />

received awards including Scotts<br />

Head, Nambucca Headland and<br />

Ballina Central.<br />

facebook.com/smorgasboarder<br />

HIT THE ROAD<br />

twitter.com/smorgasboarder<br />

If you enjoy feasting on anything<br />

surf related from surfing to SUP,<br />

kiteboarding to wakeboarding<br />

and live on the Sunshine Coast,<br />

a truckload of gear may be<br />

heading your way. The Ocean<br />

Addicts mobile demo centre will<br />

be travelling around various local<br />

breaks, so keep your eyes peeled.<br />

www.oceanaddicts.com.au<br />

TO THE POINT<br />

Surfboard noses are certainly in<br />

the news of late after a surfer in<br />

NZ recently had a surfboard nose<br />

penetrate 7cm into his face going<br />

through to the roof of his mouth,<br />

before it broke off, leaving 20cm<br />

of it protruding from his cheek.<br />

(You can now let out a collective<br />

‘aaarrgghhh!’)<br />

For more gore read www.<br />

heraldsun.com.au/news/<br />

world/surfer-survives-afterchunk-of-surfboard-becomesembedded-in-his-head/storye6frf7lf-1225954967493.<br />

Sydney University’s ‘Save Sight<br />

Institute’ are about to conclude<br />

a study attempting to quantify<br />

the number of NSW surfers<br />

who injure their eyes every year<br />

through surfboards accidents.<br />

George Greenough, famous<br />

surfer and filmmaker has long<br />

campaigned to take sharp edges<br />

off surfboards to reduce risk<br />

of a penetrating injury. Others,<br />

like Mona Vale shaper Ron<br />

Wade, believe surfers should be<br />

responsible for the risks they take.<br />

Ron reasons, ‘’Do we need to<br />

use rubber golf balls because you<br />

might get hit? People on the golf<br />

course have been killed.’’<br />

It is certainly a contentious issue<br />

that is on the nose with surfers<br />

and shapers alike. Accidents do<br />

happen. Just look at Page 178.<br />

28 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


PHOTO: Nana<br />

photo: Shane Newman<br />

YOUR CHANCE TO WIN<br />

A TRIP TO SURF HEAVEN<br />

<strong>2012</strong> marks 20 years operation for Freeline Indonesian Surf<br />

Adventures. As part of the celebrations there is a trip for two up for grabs<br />

to Ombak Indah Losmen in South Sumatra, including airfares.<br />

Nev Hines started Freeline back in 1992 with a land based trip to West<br />

Java. Stu Horstman joined Nev in partnership 5 years later in 1997.<br />

Stu recently had this to say, “It was a fun but rocky road with all the Indo<br />

trouble years from about 1997 to 2006 but we had heaps of great waves<br />

and made a lot of good friends along the way. Nev passed away last year<br />

and we talked about making it to 20 years: ‘All you have to do is hang in<br />

there and keep surfing’… Nev didn’t quite make it, but we’re stoked to still<br />

be going strong, hence the big prize of a trip for two, flights included.”<br />

Entering the competition is easy. It basically entails going onto Freeline’s<br />

Facebook page, clicking ‘Like’ and completing the Competition Signup<br />

form and answering the question, ‘What is the name of the break located<br />

in front of Ombak Indah Losmen, South Sumatra?’ Full details of the comp<br />

are available at www.freelinesurf.com.au/freeline-20-year-anniversarycompetition.htm<br />

To read more about Freeline and surfing in heaven, see Page 84.<br />

To drive<br />

the point<br />

home, see<br />

page 178<br />

UNDERDOG LOVERS<br />

We love all kinds of dogs but most<br />

notably, underdogs. And it’s high time<br />

for us to show some extra affection.<br />

Times are tight. Everyone is feeling<br />

the pinch. But you know the old<br />

saying, ‘You don’t know what you<br />

have got until it is gone’.<br />

Well, our iconic surfboard shaping<br />

industry, so much a part of the fabric<br />

of Australian beach culture is under<br />

threat of disappearing altogether.<br />

With news reports of shonky, supercheap<br />

and substandard Chinese<br />

import boards very topical in the news<br />

at the moment, you have to ask, ‘Will<br />

we just sit back and do nothing, only<br />

to wonder in years to come if we<br />

should have tried harder? ‘<br />

We may not have been able to save<br />

the likes of Vegemite from overseas<br />

hands, but let’s keep a few things<br />

for ourselves. Re-ignite your national<br />

pride and buy an Australian made<br />

surfboard, from a local shaper, in your<br />

local area. It’s good for the soul and<br />

our community.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

29


HIGH QUALITY, HANDCRAFTED<br />

AND UNIQUE, ECO FRIENDLY<br />

RECYCLED TIMBER FURNITURE.<br />

BEST SURF<br />

DOCUMENTARY<br />

Splinters, the directorial debut of<br />

filmmaker Adam Pesce, took home<br />

the Best Surf Documentary gong<br />

at the 41st annual SURFER Poll,<br />

which was held at the Turtle Bay<br />

Resort on the North Shore of Oahu,<br />

Hawaii. It follows other first place<br />

awards at the London Surf Film<br />

Festival and Hawaii International<br />

Film Festival.<br />

The film is the first feature-length<br />

documentary about the evolution<br />

of indigenous surfing in Papua<br />

New Guinea and is currently doing<br />

the rounds across the globe.<br />

For the trailer and more<br />

information, see the website:<br />

splintersmovie.com<br />

SMORGASBOARDINGS<br />

You can now read every edition of<br />

smorgasboarder on the Ipad... and<br />

the iphone... as well as online, all<br />

at www.smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

Don’t go looking for us on iTunes<br />

because - WE ARE FREE - print or<br />

online. Any platform you choose.<br />

The mag for everyday surfers,<br />

completely free...<br />

And if that is not enough, you<br />

can check us out on Facebook<br />

and twitter, where we apparently<br />

do interesting stuff to keep you<br />

regularly entertained. Buggered if<br />

we know what that is. By the way<br />

@reader Did I mention I just had a<br />

ham sandwich – YUM. Hey,<br />

@reader... Mark is watching me<br />

type this silly message.<br />

Facebook.com/smorgasboarder<br />

twitter.com/smorgasboarder<br />

CALL 0413 061 727<br />

WWW.BYRONBAYFURNITURE.COM<br />

Can’t find MAGNETIC DECK GRIPS in your favourite shop?<br />

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LATEST IN SKATE<br />

There’s a new skateboard label on<br />

the Gold Coast, OBFive. Doing cool<br />

little retro cruisers, there’s also<br />

some sweet limited edition ranges<br />

available.<br />

To win yourself your own ‘Sailor<br />

Jerry’ cruiser, see Page 26.<br />

www.obfiveskateboards.com.au<br />

COMMUNITY<br />

MUM’S THE WORD<br />

We’re onto these ladies in<br />

Adelaide... Very sneaky, this<br />

babysitting club on the beach.<br />

SurferMums is for mums with<br />

young kids who still want to get<br />

out on the water.<br />

The mums meet once a month to<br />

chat, share news and tell tall tales<br />

about their husbands. The club<br />

will be launched at the inaugural<br />

SurferMums meeting on Australia<br />

Day, 26th <strong>January</strong> <strong>2012</strong>, at Moana<br />

surf beach.<br />

WWW.MAGNETICGRIP.COM<br />

30 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

FIIK have released sweet new<br />

decks for their complete range of<br />

powered skateboards. They also<br />

have a brand new clip featuring<br />

Joel Parkinson.<br />

Check it out at www.<br />

fiikskateboards.com and<br />

connect on www.facebook.<br />

com/pages/FiiK- Electric-<br />

Skateboards/105025949529866<br />

New to Australia is the super<br />

schmick range of Koastal<br />

Longboards from California.<br />

Beautiful unique wood inlaid<br />

stringer decks, revolutionary Lucid<br />

Grip and Revenge Trucks add to<br />

the appeal of these cruisers.<br />

www.streetsup.com.au<br />

From time to time there will be<br />

extra activities organised, such as<br />

camping weekends near the beach<br />

and surf lessons for mums and<br />

young kids.<br />

At all monthly meetings there will<br />

be a large sunshade, a roped-off<br />

area for the safety of the kids and<br />

a First Aid kit. Mums pay a $90<br />

membership fee per year.<br />

To join or to find out more,<br />

contact the coordinator Damia<br />

Ettakadoumi on 0408 683 088 or<br />

visit the SurferMums webpage<br />

www.surfergirls.com.au


LITTLE BROWN DOG<br />

A huge congratulations to our<br />

stunt dummy, test pilot and<br />

good mate, Gus Brown, and<br />

his beautiful wife Tammy on<br />

the birth of their son Harvey<br />

Charles Russell Brown - from<br />

now on affectionately known<br />

to us as ‘The Wallbanger.’<br />

We can’t wait to get him out<br />

on the water, testing gear<br />

and doing his dad out of a<br />

successful, unpaid job.<br />

photo: Shane Newman<br />

FESTIVE SEASON FOR SURFERS<br />

With so many festivals and events coming, it feels like Christmas all over again!<br />

SURFN’INK<br />

13-15 <strong>January</strong><br />

More than just an international<br />

tattoo convention attracting some<br />

of the world’s most renowned tattoo<br />

artists, it is a celebration of skin<br />

featuring body piercing to body<br />

painting, industry workshops, art<br />

exhibitions and live music.<br />

With so many in the surf industry<br />

sporting some ink, there’s also a<br />

healthy representation of shapers<br />

including the latest Inkside<br />

Surfboards from Dino Tziolis<br />

featuring artwork from event<br />

organiser Marco Ventura.<br />

www.tattoosurfnink.com<br />

BLEACH: SURFING THE FRINGE<br />

11-26 Feb, Southern Gold Coast<br />

It’s the first year of this event and<br />

one we are super keen to check out.<br />

It runs from the start of the Burleigh<br />

Breaker Pro through to the Quiky<br />

Pro but the focus of the festivities<br />

will not be the comps, but rather<br />

all things surf culture - music, art,<br />

writing, film and photography.<br />

Instead of traditional gallery style<br />

set-ups though there will be a series<br />

of beachside and casual indoor<br />

pop up events liberally scattered<br />

across the coast from Currumbin to<br />

Snapper Rocks. There will be work<br />

from the likes of the talented Sean<br />

Scott and Jack McCoy, music by<br />

Blue King Brown and one of the best<br />

vintage surfboard swap meets going<br />

around at Underground on Sunday<br />

26th. www.bleachfestival.com.au<br />

ALLEY FISH FRY<br />

4th March, Currumbin<br />

The initial idea of the Fry was to<br />

revisit the past to reignite some<br />

old school craftsmanship and<br />

inspired thinking centred on the<br />

fish surfboard design. What has<br />

transpired, particularly in recent<br />

years, is it has driven numerous<br />

professional shapers and home<br />

board builders alike to really push<br />

the boundaries of design and apply<br />

modern theory and materials to a<br />

range of other retro style boards<br />

such as mini Simmons, hulls and<br />

logs along with fish. Today the<br />

event is a melting pot of creativity<br />

all on display to see for surfing<br />

enthusiasts. To read more about the<br />

fry, how it all started and the man<br />

behind it, see our story on page 46.<br />

www.thealleyfishfry.blogspot.com<br />

NOOSA FESTIVAL OF SURFING<br />

11-17 March<br />

Back to the roots. Gone are the<br />

ticketed events in favour of a range<br />

of free entertainment. Aside from<br />

the action out in the water at First<br />

Point, a beach bar will be the centre<br />

of attention throughout the week<br />

with music, movies, fashion parades<br />

and chat shows every evening.<br />

With no pro events this year, its<br />

all amateur contests including the<br />

Noserider, Logger, Old Mal, SUP<br />

5km race, Teams event and Finless.<br />

www.noosafestivalofsurfing.com<br />

CALOUNDRA SURF FESTIVAL<br />

6-8 April<br />

Centred around the second oldest<br />

running surf contest in Australia, the<br />

Ma and Pa Bendall, this new festival<br />

will celebrate surf culture with<br />

competitions for aspiring amateur<br />

surf photographers, film makers,<br />

artists and shapers. These include<br />

The Art of Surfing, Short Film and<br />

Board Art. All works will be displayed<br />

and played at Caloundra RSL, the<br />

official sponsor of the event.<br />

A number of celebrity guest speakers<br />

are planned along with, surf<br />

displays, discussions and live music<br />

throughout the Easter long weekend,<br />

with a swap meet down at Moffat<br />

Beach on Saturday, April 7.<br />

For more details contact Matt Kelly<br />

on 0414 929 898 or visit<br />

www.caloundrasurffestival.org.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

31


Paddling the calm<br />

waters of Northern<br />

QLD - the perfect way<br />

to take in the scenery<br />

RIVERS? WHAT RIVERS?<br />

Well, surprise, surprise - Mother Nature doesn’t always play along. Covering<br />

the travel tales around Tommy Jacobson’s plan to paddle the longest rivers in<br />

Australia was torpedoed this past November due to bad weather. Tommy tells<br />

us that his first planned trip, of all things, on the Murrumbidgee River was<br />

unfortunately put on hold due to storms and wild weather.<br />

Not that it’s kept him out of the water, though. He sent us some pics from a<br />

road trip to Northern QLD instead where he spent a month up there traveling,<br />

exploring and riding different boards. Here’s a few snaps of the paddling and<br />

training around the idyllic islands and bays of the North.<br />

Bring on the river trips and tales. Keep abreast of it all at tommyjacobson.com<br />

32 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


Get packing<br />

We love Wasp Bags. And they keep<br />

getting better, with a brand new duffel<br />

bag, the waterproof MegaWasp. $79.99<br />

gets you one slick and sensible sack.<br />

www.waspbags.com.au<br />

LATEST: & GREATEST<br />

+Two<br />

Six wheels are<br />

better than four.<br />

What? See<br />

Page 168<br />

So much<br />

space... pack<br />

plenty for<br />

that surf trip<br />

Make a<br />

stand<br />

Show your support for local<br />

Aussie shapers, loud and<br />

proud! $30 plus postage from<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

Zandy<br />

bottoms<br />

All the way from Amsterdam, these clever wrap skirts, with a handy pouch<br />

for your phone are the perfect girly beach accessory. The promo code SMOR<br />

gets you 10% off online, or see Page 26 for how to win one!<br />

www.zand.com.au<br />

And the bag<br />

makes a cool<br />

wax pouch!<br />

Heaps of<br />

colours and<br />

patterns to<br />

choose from!<br />

Go your<br />

own way<br />

For around $50 you can brighten<br />

up your deck with your own<br />

personalised combination of<br />

Owen Wright’s Customix mix-andmatch<br />

tail pads by Ocean & Earth.<br />

www.oceanearth.com<br />

Hit the gas<br />

GAS Fins have a great selection of fins<br />

to breathe new life into an old board or<br />

perfectly finish off your new stick. Ask your<br />

shaper for them, or check out<br />

www.gasfins.com.au<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

33


Tommy Walker, by Osric Notley - 1911<br />

THE MORE<br />

THINGS CHANGE<br />

34 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


LATEST: CENTURY<br />

Marcus Greig - 20<strong>09</strong><br />

THE MORE THEY<br />

STAY THE SAME<br />

Looking back over 100 years of surf photography, you can really witness the progress that’s been made in surfing: the changes<br />

in surfboards, style, maneuvers and basically what waves psychos are willing to take on. At the same time, it’s truly strange to<br />

look back on photos taken long before most of us were a twinkle in the eye and see those no longer with us, getting the same<br />

thrills from the same ocean, just as we do today. Yamba’s Deb Novak has put in a lot of hard work to bring together an amazing<br />

collection of visuals, documenting our very own surfing history. We’re stoked to be able to share a little bit of it with you.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

35


LATEST: CENTURY<br />

David Brandon - 2007<br />

FROM HUMBLE<br />

BEGINNINGS<br />

You’re not the first. And you<br />

certainly won’t be the last.<br />

In fact, this surfing thing has<br />

been on the boil a lot longer<br />

than most of us know. Sure,<br />

we’ve all heard about the Duke<br />

formally introducing surfing at<br />

Freshwater and we’ve recently<br />

seen the Tommy Walker<br />

photograph that officially<br />

gazumped him as the first man<br />

on a board in our waters, but<br />

to take stock of the constant<br />

and growing popularity of our<br />

favourite addiction through the<br />

eyes of 75-odd photographers<br />

is something special indeed.<br />

Where better to hold this<br />

exhibition than in Yamba – the<br />

beautiful backdrop for the shot<br />

that started it all...<br />

Hardworking journo, surf<br />

history devotee and an active<br />

member of the Yamba surfing<br />

community, Deb Novak, has<br />

brought together a body of<br />

work that marks and celebrates<br />

the centenary of Australian<br />

surfing photography - and what<br />

a journey it takes you on.<br />

The exhibition honours the<br />

pioneer of surfing photography,<br />

18-year-old Maclean<br />

photographer Osric Notley<br />

who captured Australia’s first<br />

surfing photo at Main Beach<br />

Yamba in late 1911. Osric was<br />

a member of the newly formed<br />

Yamba Surf Life Saving Brigade<br />

and photographed his friend<br />

and Manly surf club member,<br />

Tommy Walker.<br />

It’s interesting to note that<br />

only seven years before this<br />

historical photo was taken<br />

it was against the law to<br />

swim during daylight - hard<br />

to fathom when you consider<br />

that there are around 2 million<br />

Australians that surf today.<br />

Back in the early days,<br />

swimming was only permitted<br />

at dusk and dawn, but things<br />

changed dramatically when a<br />

man - the editor of the Manly<br />

Daily - openly defied this law<br />

by taking a midday dip. He<br />

was promptly arrested, but no<br />

charges were laid and soon<br />

after the laws were changed.<br />

Around the same time that<br />

people were stripping down<br />

and standing up to silly laws,<br />

and while Australian surf<br />

culture was in its infancy, a<br />

new range of photographic<br />

equipment was about to<br />

enable the masses to<br />

create, capture and record<br />

the world around them.<br />

In 1888 Kodak launched<br />

a new camera with the<br />

slogan, “You press the<br />

button, we do the rest” and<br />

then three short years later<br />

launched its first daylightloading<br />

camera. In 1900 the<br />

famous Brownie cameras<br />

were introduced, selling<br />

for $1 and costing 15 cents<br />

to run. This opened the<br />

floodgates for photographic<br />

hobbyists all over.<br />

The legacy of Osric<br />

Notley’s first surfing<br />

photograph is absolutely<br />

mirrored 100 years later,<br />

as technological advances<br />

have again given the wider<br />

community an opportunity<br />

to pick up a camera - or<br />

even a mobile phone -and<br />

take a decent photo, many<br />

of which are well worthy<br />

of print.<br />

This leveling of the<br />

playing field is evident in<br />

the 100 years of Surfing<br />

Photography exhibition<br />

where, in the true spirit<br />

of surfing, legends of the<br />

lens like John Witzig,<br />

Albe Falzon, Jack McCoy<br />

and Christo Reid are hung<br />

36 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


Duke Kahanamoku, by Donald McIntyre - 1915<br />

side-by-side images from<br />

lesser-known and unknown<br />

photographers - even<br />

an 11-year-old Yamba<br />

grommet, Phoenix Short has<br />

his work on display.<br />

Some of the gems on<br />

exhibit include the first tube<br />

ride captured by George<br />

Greenough as well as the<br />

two cover shots from the<br />

1962 surfing bibles of their<br />

day, the first Surfing World<br />

and Surfabout magazines.<br />

Historical images like that<br />

of female surfer Isabel<br />

Letham and the Duke<br />

surfing at Freshwater<br />

in Sydney in 1915 is an<br />

absolute rare find as are<br />

images of Australian surfing<br />

legends Ma and Pa Bendall<br />

from the Sunshine Coast.<br />

The 100 photographs<br />

showcased at the exhibition<br />

are not for sale and will<br />

form a permanent collection<br />

to be housed in Yamba. You<br />

can visit the exhibition at<br />

the Yamba Museum until<br />

February 3, <strong>2012</strong>. Entry is<br />

$5 and the money raised<br />

goes to Disabled Surfing<br />

and the Yamba Museum.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

37


LATEST: CENTURY<br />

SOME OF THE MANY<br />

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE<br />

EXHIBITION INCLUDE:<br />

• The first tube shot taken in<br />

Australia by George Greenough<br />

• Witzig with the headless McTavish<br />

• Cyclops and Shipsterns<br />

• First time published Bobby Brown<br />

• Byron’s old Blood and Guts with<br />

the wharf intact circa 1963<br />

• Vintage and retro camera gear<br />

Martin Tullermans - 1977<br />

Rod Owen - 2010<br />

38 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

39


40 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


“YOU PRESS THE<br />

BUTTON,<br />

WE DO THE REST”<br />

Kodak - 1888<br />

Jarrason Bitton - 2010<br />

Russell Ord - 2006<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

41


LATEST: CENTURY<br />

V Gadsby - 1950<br />

ONE CLICK IN<br />

TIME<br />

CENTENARY OF<br />

AUSTRALIAN<br />

SURFING<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

For more information on the<br />

exhibition, visit the Yamba<br />

Museum website at<br />

www.pyhsmuseum.org.au<br />

Sean Davey - 2001<br />

42 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


IT’S HIGH TIME YOU PAID A VISIT TO WALLY’S...<br />

UNIQUE AND INDIVIDUAL HANDCRAFTED SURFBOARDS BY JORDIE BROWN NOW IN STOCK<br />

Photos by Scotty Wintle. Recycled timber frame by Phil Johnson<br />

It’s all about the beach 6 Lorraine Ave • Marcoola Beach 07 5448 8560<br />

NOW STOCKING: HIGH TIDE, BUSHRAT, BLACK APACHE, TOM WEGENER, SAS<br />

surf art • shells • driftwood things • chenille shorts • beach stuff • retro sunnies • thongs • stripy towels • umbrellas • hammocks • GoPro cameras<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

43


The man, his workshop and one<br />

of the many fruits of his labour.<br />

PHOTO: Mark Chapman<br />

Grant Newby. Who is he? Who is this man who has become<br />

the poster child for home board builders across Australia and<br />

around the globe? How did he end up behind the two most<br />

notable surfboard exhibitions in the country – the Alley Fish Fry<br />

and Wooden Surfboards Show & Ride?<br />

20 years as a Production Manager at busy Gold Coast advertising<br />

agency Quadrant means he has a creative streak, but what lead Grant<br />

to try his hand at board building in the first place, let alone inspire loads<br />

of others to do the same? We find out.<br />

WORDS: DAVE SWAN<br />

46 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


LATEST: PROJECTS<br />

PART ONE: GRANT NEWBY<br />

THE<br />

ACCIDENTAL<br />

MOTIVATOR<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

47


48 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


“It seemed<br />

only natural,<br />

with my love<br />

of surfing, to<br />

eventually<br />

build a wooden<br />

board.”<br />

Josh Punch enjoying<br />

one of Grant’s boards -<br />

a 5ft Simmons - in Bali.<br />

Growing up in Dargal, a small timber town<br />

on the north island of New Zealand above<br />

Auckland, established Grant’s affinity with<br />

water and wood.<br />

He first caught the surfing bug when he took<br />

out a Dunlop longboard he had inherited from<br />

a family friend who owned a local sports shop.<br />

Their daughter and Grant used to surf the board<br />

together, as it took the two of them to carry it<br />

down to the beach. In due course, Grant’s dad<br />

saw to making the board a more manageable<br />

size taking a metre out of the middle and<br />

joining it together again using two broomsticks<br />

as dowel.<br />

“Where we learnt to surf, there was 70 miles of<br />

open beach. We used to surf probably the 4th<br />

reef form of the waves belting in on the coast.<br />

When you came in from the water you would<br />

be a mile away from where you started.<br />

“Like most kids in NZ, you surf, kayak or sail as<br />

none of us lived that far from the coast. For me<br />

I have always liked getting out on the water.<br />

It is somewhere I just feel comfortable. When<br />

you go fishing or surfing you just go somewhere<br />

else. When you come back in, you feel totally<br />

relaxed. You are in a different place.“<br />

HOW DID YOU FIRST GET INTO BUILDING<br />

BOARDS?<br />

“I always liked building things since I was a<br />

young fella. My dad had lots of tools and timber<br />

was in abundance. It seemed only natural,<br />

with my love of surfing, to eventually build a<br />

wooden board. I think there is certain amount<br />

of romance with timber.“<br />

“The first board I ever built was 9 or 10 years<br />

ago now. I still have it. It’s a 7’6” fish with<br />

plywood frame, ply deck and bottom and<br />

laminated cork rails.<br />

“I was initially going to build a toothpick but<br />

then I thought, if I am going to go to that effort,<br />

what else is around? I got hold of some ideas<br />

from Paul Jensen and built a board along the<br />

lines of his style where it takes the form of a<br />

hollow ribbed construction. He was really the<br />

only one out there promoting the building of<br />

wooden surfboards at the time.<br />

“I was drafting up the plans on butcher paper. It<br />

was a very long laborious way to build a board<br />

but you learn an awful lot. You also learn an<br />

awful lot about yourself during the process.<br />

What it really shows is how much you take for<br />

granted. You sit on a surfboard for hours and<br />

hours and hours and you never really take in<br />

what goes in to making one, all the little bits<br />

that make up a board.<br />

“You find there is nothing better than building<br />

something that you then surf. That is a hell of a<br />

buzz. At the end of the day it is a huge learning<br />

curve and the whole thing is really a journey<br />

because as you build it, especially a wood<br />

one, a lot of time and effort goes into it. There<br />

is a lot of you that goes into it, so you have a<br />

strong connection with the outcome. And when<br />

you put it into the water and go ‘shit it floats’<br />

(laughter), that is one revelation.”<br />

To many first time shapers this is the appeal<br />

of building a board with your bare hands. It<br />

also gives you a greater appreciation of the<br />

craftsmanship entailed in shaping a surfboard,<br />

along with a little hint of nostalgia. There is a<br />

sense you are following in the footsteps of our<br />

forefathers, many who shaped and surfed their<br />

own craft. But for Grant, building a board was<br />

never going to be a ‘one off’ experience. It was<br />

a hobby that was to become an addictive.<br />

LATEST: PROJECTS<br />

“.I like to<br />

jump on<br />

a board<br />

and find<br />

out what<br />

makes it<br />

tick”<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

49


50 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


WHERE THE FISH FRY STARTED<br />

“I love my surfing but I am not a great surfer. I do it<br />

for fun. I just enjoy the camaraderie of surfing and<br />

the social side of it and I am not alone. There are way<br />

more of us out there that surf for the hell of it than<br />

people that hope to be in a heat with Kelly Slater.<br />

“I pretty much enjoy surfing anything. I like to jump on a<br />

board and find out what makes it tick. I like discovering<br />

the feeling of boards. I like being inspired by seeing<br />

things. This is what surfing is all about to me.“<br />

Through the years, as Grant’s passion for surfing<br />

and board building grew, he found himself regularly<br />

trawling the web for board building sites and blogs<br />

but sought a forum beyond the internet. On a trip to<br />

California he briefly met respected hollow wood board<br />

builder Danny Hess in Oceanside. It was there Grant<br />

came across an article promoting a Fish Fry organised<br />

by well known surf identities Sean Madison (former<br />

pro surfer and USA surf team coach) and Scott Bass<br />

(Director of the US Sacred Craft surfboard shaper<br />

exhibitions).<br />

Back in Australia, he got in touch with Sean and<br />

subsequently timed his next visit to California around<br />

the Fish Fry. When Grant returned home the second<br />

time, he started planning the first ever Fish Fry at<br />

Currumbin Alley, some five years ago.<br />

“I had learnt so much through the years but instead of<br />

travelling all over the place, I told people to, ‘Meet me<br />

in the park!’ Since then all sorts of dudes have turned<br />

up. I have met so many people without having to move<br />

anywhere from where I surf. That is a bonus in itself.<br />

“I thought there was a common interest out there. I put<br />

the word out on where to meet and thought to myself, ‘At<br />

the worst, I will end up in a park across from the beach I<br />

surf at, for the day, by myself – I can live with that.’<br />

But many did come that first Sunday on March 4th<br />

March 2007. Five years on and going strong, the key<br />

to the Fish Fry’s success has been its simplicity.<br />

“I don’t promise anything and as such I don’t create any<br />

expectation. I just say, ‘Hey, we’re meeting in the park.’<br />

“I don’t have any sponsorship and I don’t owe anybody.<br />

And I have kept it that way because the commercial<br />

side corrupts it all. People say to me, ‘What is in it for<br />

you?’ Well there is nothing in it for me. I just dedicate<br />

my time and effort into making it happen.”<br />

LATEST: PROJECTS<br />

WOODEN SURFBOARD DAY<br />

The Wooden Surfboard Day, also at Currumbin Alley,<br />

followed some 2 years after the first ever Alley Fish<br />

Fry. Grant used the same simple format.<br />

“It was kind of a natural progression as there seemed<br />

to be a lot of interest in the wooden surfboard. I<br />

could see that there was a lot of development and<br />

experiment with regards to wood board building.<br />

I started a blog to share the knowledge of how to<br />

construct one and share experiences and the event<br />

grew from there. 400,000 people have now visited<br />

that blog.”<br />

Some 150 wooden surfboards were on display at the<br />

first ever event.<br />

“I don’t promise<br />

anything... I just say,<br />

‘Hey, we’re meeting in<br />

the park.’”<br />

Dan McDonald of DMS,<br />

California’s Rich Pavel,<br />

Queensland shaper Tony<br />

Dempsey... A few of the<br />

many faces at the annual<br />

Fish Fry over the years.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

51


LATEST: PROJECTS<br />

APPRECIATION FOR THE FINER THINGS<br />

Grant’s other motivation for organising such<br />

events is to shine the light on surfboard<br />

shapers and design.<br />

“Shapers have never had a forum that is<br />

about them. There is so much skill involved<br />

in the art of shaping a surfboard. Their<br />

craftsmanship is too often taken for granted.”<br />

It’s this approach that has seen both events<br />

attract innovative shapers from around the<br />

world strutting their stuff, many showing off<br />

classic hand made designs, beautiful resin<br />

tints and hand-foiled fibreglass and wood fins.<br />

“It gives the shapers a reason to shape<br />

something different and showcase their<br />

experiments. Those same innovative guys<br />

have now got into Simmons and hulls and<br />

old school boards. A lot of guys are getting<br />

those old plan shapes out and applying their<br />

theories on modern board design to them<br />

along with the latest materials to see how<br />

they surf. I want to embrace that.”<br />

However, we asked Grant if it was difficult<br />

to have a coming together of minds from<br />

professional shapers through to backyard<br />

board builders.<br />

“Guys like Richard Pavel (world famous<br />

Californian shaper) who comes out every year<br />

for the Alley Fish Fry thinks it’s great as there<br />

is a new wave of interest and inspiration.<br />

Backyard board building is where the whole<br />

surfboard movement began. How can that be<br />

a bad thing?<br />

“Look at the old photos of Dick Van Straalen<br />

and Bob McTavish, they were shaping in old<br />

farmhouses. That is where it came from.<br />

Everyday they shaped a different board and<br />

shaped 6 inches off it and put more V in it. It<br />

was a continual path of discovery.”<br />

We couldn’t agree more. Not only do days<br />

like these encourage shapers to push the<br />

boundaries of design, they have shone the<br />

light on emerging talent and given everyday<br />

surfers a greater appreciation for quality<br />

craftsmanship. This can only be a step in the<br />

right direction of protecting our industry from<br />

the onslaught of cheap Chinese imports – a<br />

greater understanding of the difference<br />

between price and quality.<br />

GRANT’S TIPS FOR BUILDING YOUR<br />

OWN BOARD<br />

“Go to the Fish Fry or Wood Board Expo. It<br />

is a welcoming forum of people willing to<br />

share. You can sit around and talk about<br />

what works and what doesn’t.”<br />

Grant goes on to explain that these days<br />

are not only an opportunity to talk with<br />

other professional shapers and amateur<br />

enthusiasts, it is great to see first hand<br />

what they are shaping and trying to achieve<br />

with the design, along with the construction<br />

techniques and materials used.<br />

The blogs Grant has set up -<br />

thealleyfishfry.blogspot.com and<br />

woodensurfboards.blogspot.com - are also<br />

another valuable source of information and<br />

inspiration along with design forum sites<br />

such as www.swaylocks.com<br />

“What it really shows is how<br />

much you take for granted. You<br />

sit on a surfboard for hours and<br />

hours and hours and you never<br />

really take in what goes into<br />

making one, all the little bits<br />

that make up a board.”<br />

Josh Punch<br />

52 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

53


The MC<br />

Quiver<br />

MICHAEL CUNDITH<br />

SURF DESIGNS<br />

Danny Wills Rippa 5’10” x 19” x 2 1 / 8”<br />

Dart Fish 6’2” x 21 ¾” x 2 ½”<br />

CUSTOM ORDERS<br />

ON ANY MODEL<br />

Islander 6’8” x 21 ½” x 2 ¾”<br />

Stubbie 6’8” x 22 ½” x 3”<br />

Davenport Disc 6’10” x 21 ½” x 2 ¾”<br />

Whale Fish 8’0” x 25 ½” x 3 ½”<br />

The Man Gun 9’1” x 22 ¼” x 3 ¼”<br />

High Performance Mal 9’1” x 22 ¾” x 2 ¾”<br />

As for his recommendation on what type of board to try first,<br />

“Start with a small board – a fish or something that’s easy to<br />

get your head around, so you are not bewildered by it all - a<br />

board that’s an enhancement of what you regularly surf. It will<br />

challenge you to think about what you ride.<br />

“You will discover what makes sense. Why the rails are shaped<br />

a certain way, what they do, how water flows around the plan<br />

shape and its curves. There are a lot of questions that need to be<br />

asked and then answered.<br />

“You start to look and admire things in a different way. It is a<br />

giant learning curve but an intriguing journey.”<br />

FOAM OR WOOD?<br />

“Foam is the easiest to start with. It is a lot less cost and you<br />

can get an outcome in a lot less time. Then there are guys like<br />

Richard Harvey who runs a shaping course. He will teach you the<br />

right way to shape a board.<br />

“Building a wooden board is not an easy way to build a board. It<br />

takes an awful lot of time. You are forever trying to build within<br />

the limitations of your tools, your ability and your imagination.<br />

But on top of all that, you are building a board inside out. It’s not<br />

until you have spent 75% of your time and effort, when you put<br />

the skin on and realise what the final shape looks like. With that<br />

said, you do have a tremendous sense of achievement when you<br />

build a wood board.<br />

“No matter what the outcome, you are happy with what you<br />

have done and what you have learnt. Not a lot of people get that<br />

feeling in life. If you enjoy surfing and you make a tool that you<br />

enjoy surfing – what a great feeling.”<br />

Telephone: 02 66858778<br />

Fax: 02 66808932<br />

Factory Showroom:<br />

3 Banksia Drive<br />

Byron Bay Industrial Estate<br />

BYRON BAY NSW 2481<br />

email: info@mcsurf.com.au<br />

www.mcsurf.com.au<br />

Balsa Mal 9’6” x 24” x 3 ¼”<br />

FREIGHT<br />

IT NOW!<br />

We’ll send<br />

boards<br />

anywhere in<br />

Australia for<br />

reasonable rates<br />

AS FOR HOW MANY BOARDS GRANT HAS BUILT HIMSELF.<br />

“I don’t know. I don’t count and I don’t put sizes on them because<br />

people pick it up and go, ‘Oh, I can’t ride that.’ They pre-judge<br />

it and yet they have never even ridden it. It’s always best to<br />

experience things firsthand to fully appreciate what you have.”<br />

www.surfboardsbygrantnewby.blogspot.com<br />

54 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

55


56 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


PART TWO: DAMON BEREZIAT<br />

OH, WHAT A<br />

LOVELY BUNCH<br />

OF COCONUTS<br />

ONE BIG IDEA, MANY HELPING<br />

HANDS AND A JOURNEY<br />

THAT READS LIKE A TRAVEL<br />

BROCHURE OF THE SUNSHINE<br />

COAST LATER, DAMON BEREZIAT<br />

HAS TURNED A DECADE-OLD<br />

DREAM INTO A REALITY.<br />

WORDS: MARK CHAPMAN<br />

LATEST: PROJECTS<br />

“My coconut board is finally finished. It’s been a<br />

long, drawn-out process since conception of the<br />

idea and at times I thought it wouldn’t happen.<br />

Many people I asked for assistance told me to ‘go<br />

away’, ‘not interested’, ‘it won’t work’ or ‘I don’t<br />

want anything to do with it...’<br />

But being determined, stubborn and persistent,<br />

Damon Bereziat is now the proud owner of a very<br />

usable surfboard made out of… coconut – an<br />

idea born sixteen years ago when he saw coconut<br />

wood floating in a lagoon in New Ireland, PNG.<br />

Now, coconut is not an easy material to source, we<br />

understand. Some research, a Frenchman called<br />

Henri and a borrowed ute with a GPS later, Damon<br />

set off for the wilds of Eudlo, in the Sunshine Coast<br />

hinterland to get his board under way.<br />

“Bardo is an eccentric and gifted master wood<br />

craftsman, missing lots of fingers and parts<br />

thereof, machined the four-by-twos straight,<br />

blunting all his tools in the process.”<br />

It turns out coconut is full of silica and not ideal<br />

to machine and cut.<br />

“He also helped me build my blank and allowed<br />

me access to his workshop and bandsaw!”<br />

The nut wood was then glued with newspaper<br />

and diluted Aquadhere glue (a non-toxic, quick<br />

setting PVA wood glue suitable for all types of<br />

wood) and with blank ready and waiting, Damon<br />

got stuck into the all-important design phase of<br />

the project.<br />

“My little bro, Beau, helped me design the<br />

shape with some AKU Shaper software we<br />

downloaded free from the internet. John Gillis<br />

from C.E.T. Surf in Warana then transformed my<br />

idea into a 3D computer file, and introduced me to<br />

a talented, passionate surfer and yachtsman who<br />

makes dreams become realities through state of<br />

the art computer technology and 3D modeling -<br />

Mark Greystone”<br />

Damon travelled up to Cooroy after Mark agreed<br />

to cut the rough shape on his 3D routing machine,<br />

despite the clear and present danger to the<br />

delicate equipment.<br />

“I broke his router in the first 60 seconds of<br />

cutting, but he kindly replaced the broken part<br />

and continued while I stood there for four hours<br />

mesmerised as the machine went back and forth,<br />

back and forth...”<br />

The rough was shape done and Damon was left<br />

with a heavy, solid piece of coconut, far too heavy<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

57


LATEST: PROJECTS<br />

4.<br />

1.<br />

“It’s been a<br />

long, drawn-out<br />

process...”<br />

5.<br />

2.<br />

3.<br />

6.<br />

THE PROCESS: 1. A pile of wood and a Factory surfboard for inspiration. 2. The magical world of<br />

a Eudlo workshop. 3. The blank’s temporary glue-up. 4-5. Breaking the cutting machine.<br />

6. At the Factory Paul Carson explains to Tom Wegener that Damon is a lunatic. 7-10. Creating<br />

the chambers, step by step. The blank is taken apart, the chambers are drawn on, cut out, and the<br />

blank is re-glued. 11. Nephew Brenden staking his claim to a soon-to-be family heirloom.<br />

7.<br />

8. 9. 10.<br />

11.<br />

to surf, so he decided to pay a visit<br />

to his good friend and local shaper,<br />

Paul Carson at Factory Surfboards in<br />

Caloundra.<br />

“It won’t work Damon. It’s too heavy.<br />

You’re a tripper...” was Paul’s initial<br />

reaction, says Damon.<br />

“I expected this reaction and nothing<br />

less from Paul as he’s a straight shooter<br />

and a realist, which I appreciate most<br />

times. But I knew he could be talked<br />

round if I annoyed him every Saturday<br />

for several weeks to get him to come<br />

on board with my idea.<br />

“He caved in. He agreed to glass the<br />

board and assist with making fins and<br />

refining my original shape.<br />

To lighten it, the board needed to be<br />

chambered. This involves taking the<br />

individual strips of the blank apart and<br />

then routing, cutting or even drilling<br />

holes through each individual piece to<br />

create hollow sections. After several<br />

nights of painstaking work, Damon<br />

gently and carefully broke apart the<br />

shaped blank and re-glued the strips<br />

into something that now had the<br />

weight and feel of an actual surfboard.<br />

“I was stoked and on the home stretch<br />

- finally able to see some light at the<br />

end of the tunnel, so to speak.”<br />

To allow for drainage, a brass bung<br />

purchased from a plumbing supplies<br />

shop was modified and inserted along<br />

with the some special trim - an inlay<br />

of two coconut palm trees.<br />

“Paul started me off and supervised<br />

shaping of the rails, finishing the fins<br />

and sanding her up prior to glassing<br />

after I burnt the name ‘Alize’ into my<br />

board and a bit into my skin - I stood on<br />

the soldering iron branding my bare foot.<br />

“It’s the French word for the trade<br />

winds and the name I gave to my new<br />

coconut board. My heritage, along with<br />

my trips to French Polynesia and Tahiti<br />

inspired me to name her the Alize.”<br />

“I then cut paua (abalone) shell into<br />

disks to represent coconuts and<br />

inlayed them into the deck.<br />

With the end in sight, Damon then<br />

foiled the coconut-inlayed fins and<br />

sanded the board, finishing it with a<br />

coat, a pro-finish and finally a light rub<br />

with a 400 grit wet-and-dry to produce<br />

one fine looking surfboard.<br />

“Almost sixteen years after I first had<br />

the idea I held the board under my arm<br />

and just looked at her lines for ages<br />

grinning like an idiot and so stoked! The<br />

board is my second most prized material<br />

possession - next to a ring my grandfather<br />

left to me when he passed away.<br />

“What’s made it more special is<br />

that as far as I can gather from my<br />

research, it’s one of a kind and that it<br />

was made by me - an average bloke<br />

– with the help of so many great,<br />

talented people who live and work on<br />

the Sunshine Coast.”<br />

58 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


take PrIDe<br />

Make your dream board with the highest quality<br />

surfboard kits from $620, complete with wood,<br />

epoxies, glass, fittings, manual and more.<br />

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jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

59


PART THREE: GEOFF RIPPINGALE<br />

LAND OF THE<br />

RIPPING SUN<br />

THE MILKO BUILDER<br />

STEP BY STEP: 1. Make a frame and start with a spar which is the piece up the centre and every 12 inches put a rib in. Connect them all up with stringers to get the basic<br />

shape. You can take the initial shape from an old surfboard - the width, thickness and rocker. 2. Glue all your strips of timber together to make a deck and a bottom. 3. Once<br />

they’re all together, epoxy glue them to the frame and wait until it all dries and trim up the excess. 4. Start gluing on all the 4mm solid rails on, then make and attach the tail<br />

and nose blocks. The nose block can be tricky matching up the deck and the bottom of the board. 5. Get your fins ready to go. 6. Glass and polish the board. 7. All done.<br />

1. 2. 3.<br />

60 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


MILK TRUCK DRIVER BY DAY AND WOODEN BOARD BUILDER BY NIGHT, GEOFF THE RIPPER OF KORUMBURRA, VICTORIA<br />

SHARES A LITTLE ABOUT HIS PASSION FOR PAULOWNIA LONGBOARDS AND MINI-MALS. WORDS: SIMON R KETTLE<br />

Geoff Rippingale started surfing in 1968 at<br />

Port Phillip Bay on a Coolite board before<br />

later graduating to a 8’ 3 George Rice.<br />

Through his teens, his father would take<br />

him to Point Leo as often as he could to ride<br />

the waves of First Reef, but what he really<br />

looked forward to was Christmas, when his<br />

family would head down the towards Lorne<br />

and surf at Wye River. Today, Geoff lives<br />

with his family at Korumburra and still likes<br />

to surf with his mates down at Kilcunda on<br />

the Bass Coast as often as he can, on one of<br />

the many beautiful handcrafted Paulownia<br />

surfboards he builds at home.<br />

INSPIRATION<br />

“I envisaged making an old paddleboard,<br />

because my dad had one of the old<br />

16-footers that took three of us to carry<br />

down to the water. I thought I’d like to build<br />

one, but when I looked into it I found that<br />

people all around the world were building<br />

these hollow wooden surfboards, so that’s<br />

what I went for.”<br />

WHY PAULOWNIA<br />

“It’s a really light timber and it’s easy to<br />

work with because there are no knots in<br />

it, unlike pine. I like to put a bit of western<br />

red cedar in the boards to give them a bit<br />

of variety. I’m interested in wood anyway<br />

- I like to build a bit of furniture too. I’d<br />

tried making fiberglass boards when I was<br />

younger and buggered them up, so I wasn’t<br />

going to try it again. I’m not a shaper.”<br />

LONGBOARDS<br />

“They are easy to make, but I’d like to<br />

make a fish too. I can ride these longboards<br />

at Cat Bay in Victoria or on small days at<br />

Kilcunda.”<br />

THE WORKSHOP<br />

“I build the boards in the large backyard<br />

shed I put together myself and use a long,<br />

converted table and desk for shaping. I’ve<br />

also made stands from car wheels for doing<br />

the rails on the boards and they double as<br />

glassing stands.<br />

“I spend a lot of time in the shed. Other<br />

jobs around the house can get neglected.<br />

My wife would like to see me more often,<br />

but I get home from work from a night shift<br />

and I’ll go straight into the shed and glue<br />

some rails on before I’d go to bed.”<br />

HANDY BACKGROUND<br />

“When I left school I became a survey<br />

draftsman for about seven years. I’ve<br />

taught myself to weld and I built my shed.<br />

I think if someone before me built it, than<br />

I can too. You should always have a go at<br />

doing something once.”<br />

GETTING STARTED<br />

“I just Googled ‘wooden surfboard plans’<br />

and came up with a guy in California, Jack<br />

Young. I paid $25, and he sent me the plans<br />

to print out. I looked at them and thought, ‘If<br />

that’s how you do it, then that’s what I’ll do.’<br />

“So, I basically followed his plans but<br />

then I went my own way. There was a lot<br />

of research looking for vent plugs which<br />

I eventually found from a guy in Western<br />

Australia who makes SUPs. The fins... Well,<br />

I just copied off boards and photos I have<br />

and made a template from there.”<br />

SHAPING PROBLEMS<br />

“Heat, too much heat in the shed on a hot<br />

day. And humidity is no good either. If it’s<br />

too cold I go in and light the pot belly and<br />

glass them in there. You have to pick your<br />

times, otherwise you finish up with air<br />

bubbles, as a glasser would know.<br />

“I also sanded right through the deck once,<br />

which buggered me right up! But I took out<br />

the whole strip and replaced it.<br />

“The first board, the 9-footer, was the<br />

hardest to build, but I think it was my<br />

best because I put about 60 hours into it.<br />

I learned so much from the making of the<br />

first board and I’ve got it down to about 40<br />

hours to make a board now.”<br />

MISTAKES<br />

“Oh yeah, I’ve made a lot of mistakes. Look<br />

at all the resin on the floor. I don’t know<br />

how many fins I’ve made and buggered<br />

up! I could go and buy some FCS fins, but I<br />

wanted to keep with the tradition of these<br />

types of wooden boards.”<br />

PERFORMANCE<br />

“I used to ride the first one all the time. It<br />

was good because you can walk the board<br />

a bit and the extra weight helps you paddle<br />

in and hang in the wave easily.<br />

“The 8-footers I’ve done are easier to turn<br />

especially because I built it with a 70/30<br />

rail instead of a 50/50’.<br />

“Friends who have ridden them say they<br />

love them and that they think they look<br />

great. One mate, it’s the main board he<br />

rides and he says he always gets asked<br />

about where he got his board from when he<br />

paddles out. When they finish surfing the<br />

boards they hang them in the lounge.”<br />

‘BYOB’ ADVICE<br />

“Do as much research as you can, tap into<br />

the internet and just go for it!”<br />

LATEST: PROJECTS<br />

4. 5. 6. 7.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

61


LATEST: PROJECTS<br />

P A R T F O U R : G R E G W H E E L D O N<br />

ART, FORM &<br />

FUNCTION<br />

BOARD ARCHITECTURE<br />

Ribs, glue and a<br />

whole lot of patience<br />

“You’re essentially surfing a soundboard. They have<br />

a lot of character and are a lot of fun to surf.”<br />

MAIN PHOTO: Greg disoplays his boards<br />

at the Currumbin Wooden Board Day.<br />

RIGHT: Details from the kiteboard and<br />

parquetry fish, and at work with son, Matt.<br />

62 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


EVER WONDERED WHAT ARCHITECTS DO IN THEIR SPARE TIME? UNFORTUNATELY WE<br />

FOUND OUT - THEY PUT MOST OF US TO SHAME IN THE SHED. WORDS: DAVE SWAN<br />

“I have always surfed, ever since I was a<br />

young bloke. I surfed down the Gold Coast in<br />

my younger years and then we moved to the<br />

northside of Brisbane and I now tend to surf up<br />

on the Sunshine Coast.<br />

“I have always enjoyed building things. From the<br />

age of 13, I used to build model gliders with 6ft<br />

to 8ft wingspans. They used similar principles of<br />

ribs and spars covered by a sheet that I use today<br />

in my boards. Aside from that, I often tinkered<br />

around making furniture and other bits and<br />

pieces so it was a natural progression to move<br />

into making wood boards.<br />

The first board Greg ever built was when he<br />

undertook a course with Californian wood board<br />

builder Paul Jensen organised by Grant Newby<br />

prior to the Wooden Board Day. Paul did a weeklong<br />

course at the Eco Village in Currumbin.<br />

“I took a week off work. We started Monday<br />

morning and by Friday we had a board finished. It<br />

was a great week with a bunch of about 10 guys.<br />

We would be up each morning at 5am for a surf,<br />

grab a bit of breakfast and we had to be at the<br />

workshop by 8.30am. We would work through<br />

to about 4:30pm, head off for another surf and<br />

then to the pub, enjoy some beers and pizza. A<br />

lot of fun.<br />

“I built a 9’ Mal very similar to a Bill Wallace<br />

Okanui with a slightly pointed nose and squared<br />

squash tail. I made it from paulownia and<br />

western red cedar with a plywood frame. Paul<br />

provided the frames.<br />

“At the end of the workshop everyone traced off<br />

everyone else’s frames. I now have tracings for a<br />

9-footer, a 7-footer, a fish and an 8’ funboard.<br />

Greg decided it was too hard to trace those onto<br />

plywood and hand cut them with a fretsaw, as<br />

the process all up would take a week in itself. He<br />

worked out he could redraw them and have the<br />

ribs and frame sent to a laser cutter. It limited<br />

waste, significantly cut down laborious work and<br />

the ribs and frame were supplied flat. Plus the<br />

accuracy of the laser cut is millimetre perfect.<br />

From there it takes Greg about 40 hours to<br />

construct each board. Obviously boards that<br />

feature intricate designs such as the parquetry<br />

board, take any where up to 80 hours. Such a<br />

pursuit obviously requires dedication, patience, a<br />

fair bit of skill and surely an understanding wife?<br />

“I guess so. I tend to mow the lawn in the<br />

morning and then in the afternoon, when it’s too<br />

hot, I sit down with a couple of beers on the back<br />

deck with the Kookaburras and spend some time<br />

on a board. You just sit down and off you go.<br />

“You can build these style boards with home<br />

handyman tools. I don’t have any special<br />

equipment really. I bought a little bench saw for<br />

$120 with a 200mm fine tooth wheel, a small belt<br />

sander, an orbital detail sander and a little mitre<br />

box for $5 to cut 45° for my parquetry designs.”<br />

Greg has now built six boards this way. He’s built a<br />

fat fish with his youngest son Matt, who is 16.<br />

“I simply watched over him to make sure he<br />

didn’t cut his fingers off but he pretty much did<br />

the whole thing himself.”<br />

Greg has built a double-ender kite board for his<br />

next oldest son Andrew and his next project is now<br />

near complete - a single fin pintail complete with<br />

Rising Sun design for his eldest son Josh modeled<br />

off an old favourite San Juan board of Greg’s.<br />

As for how the boards perform out in the water?<br />

“They are slightly heavier than a foam board but<br />

not by much, maybe ½ kilo. I figure I could eat<br />

a pizza, have some beers and put on that much<br />

weight. Does it really make that much difference?<br />

“The feel of the board on the water is something<br />

else. Because they’re made of tensioned timber<br />

and are hollow, they sing like an acoustic guitar.<br />

You’re essentially surfing a soundboard. They have<br />

a lot of character and are a lot of fun to surf.”<br />

“You get a lot of comments from people saying,<br />

‘You aren’t going to put that in the water? It’s too<br />

nice.’ But there is no need to be too concerned<br />

about getting these boards dinged. They are more<br />

sturdy than a standard fibreglass board.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

63


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FOLLOWING<br />

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BISCUIT IN A BOX<br />

MAIN:Tod and Tim with the Wood Biscuit and INSET: The creamy centre<br />

WHEN GRAIN RECENTLY PARTNERED WITH AL MERRICK ON THE RELEASE OF THE CHANNEL ISLANDS<br />

WOOD BISCUIT SURFBOARD KIT, TOD DEXTER KNEW IT WOULD BE THE PERFECT BOARD FOR HIS SON.<br />

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Open every day for Breakfast, lunch<br />

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a great cocktail bar and wine list.<br />

WHAT INSPIRED THE BUILD?<br />

I had built a strip plank kayak the previous winter<br />

and needed a new project. In the 80s I shaped and<br />

glassed an 8’ sailboard from foam and the desire<br />

to do it again out of wood has been lingering since<br />

then. My son Tim graduated from Uni this last year,<br />

so I decided to build him a board as a graduation<br />

present. Cape Boat Works had Grain Kits, so it was<br />

an easy decision to make - a CI Biscuit for the small<br />

summer surf we get down here in Victoria.<br />

HOW LONG DID IT TAKE?<br />

Overall, about 3 months but probably about 50<br />

hours of construction time.<br />

HIGHLIGHTS & CHALLENGES<br />

Having built the kayak I was well prepared, but<br />

there were a few new challenges. I’ve always<br />

liked the lines and shapes of surfboards, and to be<br />

able to create one out of timber was particularly<br />

satisfying. So much so that I have ordered an 8ft<br />

mini mal kit for myself and have plans to design<br />

and construct a 6’1” performance board for my<br />

son. He also wants an 8’6” gun for big days on the<br />

south coast of Victoria.<br />

SO, HOW DOES IT GO?<br />

Tim says: “My initial fears of a sluggish log were<br />

thrown out the window after a first surf in small,<br />

1-2ft beachbreaks. Whilst the ‘fishy’ board shape<br />

lends itself towards crappy summer waves, the<br />

wood construction creates less flex. From this, it<br />

feels like the board has more drive than it should,<br />

considering the shape.<br />

“In waves that the board’s intended for, it responds<br />

in a drivey and loose way. It’s fun and perfect for<br />

flying over fat sections. The characteristics of less<br />

flex and more drive are even more prominent when<br />

wave heights increase. In fact, the board seems to<br />

come to life with a bit more wave-power behind it.<br />

The drive into and out of turns is amazing.”<br />

Cnr Lawson & Jonson, Byron Bay<br />

02 6680 9666 www.balcony.com.au<br />

Inspired? We hope so...<br />

Building yur own board<br />

is incredibly rewarding. If<br />

you’ve ever considered it...<br />

Just do it. And send us the<br />

photos. Happy building!<br />

64 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

65


PART FIVE: GOING GREEN<br />

BACK<br />

TO NATURE<br />

THE SHAPE-OFF<br />

Mark vs. Dave<br />

66 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


LATEST: PROJECTS<br />

DAVE: Now before you get started<br />

with the ‘you have seen it all before’<br />

routine and that the idea of shaping<br />

an alaia is not original, let me just say,<br />

this is different.<br />

Sure other guys and girls have<br />

made alaias before but in the spirit<br />

of our ‘projects’ edition, Mark and<br />

I had to make something. Having<br />

already completely mastered the<br />

art of shaping a standard PU board,<br />

with the mighty Stumpy Duck<br />

revolutionising the world of surfboard<br />

design, it was time to make<br />

something different… so we thought<br />

about an ark. After all, Queensland<br />

had so much rain last summer a<br />

watercraft such as this was no doubt<br />

going to come in handy in the near<br />

future. However considering how<br />

much time the ark was going to take,<br />

we decided to make alaias instead.<br />

Now this was not some spiritually<br />

enlightening experience where we all<br />

smoked sinsemilla from the chalice<br />

of love and sipped herbal infused<br />

chai tea while incense burned in the<br />

background. There was no positive<br />

karma experience, it was outright<br />

bloody warfare. It was the skill of my<br />

bare hands pitted against the clumsy<br />

fingers of my somewhat challenged<br />

South African associate.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

67


Our<br />

benchmark...<br />

Some freshlyoiled<br />

Surfing<br />

Green Alaias<br />

‘TWAS THE NIGHT<br />

BEFORE D-DAY (DESIGN DAY)<br />

DAVE: I admit I was nervous. I felt a little<br />

like Rocky Balboa before the big fight. I had<br />

put an enormous amount of pressure on<br />

myself knowing the immense design talent<br />

I possessed. The contest was mine to lose<br />

and Mark’s to win.<br />

Other thoughts kept entering my head as<br />

well, further clouding my judgement. When<br />

shaping the board could I manage to pull<br />

off one of those cool ‘blue-steel’ Derek<br />

Zoolander model poses? Would my alaia<br />

design be trendy enough for the boys at the<br />

Sugar Mill to stock in their store?<br />

PLAN SHAPE<br />

So what was I after with regards to my<br />

design? To be honest, I really found settling<br />

on a certain design for my alaia a bit of<br />

challenge. I mean I had set the benchmark<br />

so high with my first board, The Stumpy<br />

Duck, that it was unnerving. You know,<br />

could I come up with yet another revolution<br />

in shaping design?<br />

For Mark, it was obviously less daunting. I<br />

mean his main challenge was just making<br />

a thing that floated. And let’s face it,<br />

driftwood floats. But I digress.<br />

I decided to stray from traditional Hawaiian<br />

plan shapes. After all, what if the ancient<br />

Hawaiians were wrong? Sure they invented<br />

a lot of surfing stuff but they can’t always<br />

be right. Or can they...<br />

So I thought of something inspired a little<br />

more by me, with say, a big fat arse. Why<br />

not throw in a bit of the McCoy Lazor Zap<br />

design theory, a bit of crazy cat Glen Cat<br />

Collins teaspoon theory and some elements<br />

from the alaia king himself Tom Wegener<br />

with regards to the nose and there we have<br />

it – a very schizophrenic board.<br />

Ultimately, what I wanted to achieve was a<br />

board that I could perform 360° spins with<br />

and ride both ways, much the same as a<br />

snowboard. In essence I wanted to shape a<br />

double-ender or what is commonly referred<br />

to by masters of the wood as a ‘peanut’<br />

model. So basically the inspiration for my<br />

design was Mark’s brain.<br />

QUESTIONS<br />

What if the arse of the board is too fat?<br />

They say if it is too wide on an alaia it<br />

will wildly slide out everywhere. What if<br />

the nose is too narrow. If it is, I will have<br />

no paddle power and that’s a problem<br />

considering there is less than an inch of<br />

wood to float me.<br />

I considered what problems I may encounter<br />

with the plan shape but determined that<br />

surely my innate finless surfing skills will<br />

counter any such technical flaws and if the<br />

design really sucks, I can always shave<br />

some unnecessary width. After all the board<br />

is made from wood. If it is too narrow, it is<br />

not as if I can stick the wood back on.<br />

THE VENUE<br />

We decided our battle would take place at<br />

the home of Dave - for clarity in this story to<br />

be known as Dave #2 - and Nicola O’Reilly<br />

of Surfing Green. These guys carry every<br />

environmentally-friendly bit of surf gear<br />

you can imagine from fins and board bags<br />

through to alaias... and aside from that,<br />

they were the only ones who would have<br />

us. Let it begin...<br />

68 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


1.<br />

3. 4.<br />

2.<br />

DAY ONE<br />

DAVE: When it came to shaping an alaia,<br />

I honestly thought we would be there a couple<br />

of hours and be surfing later that afternoon.<br />

What we experienced was a hell of a lot of<br />

hard work. Day one certainly confirmed a few<br />

things in my mind:<br />

1. I am crap with my hands.<br />

2. I should not be allowed anywhere near<br />

power tools.<br />

3. Mark sucks<br />

4. Just maybe my poor form and skills may lead<br />

to an accidental discovery in alaia design<br />

Cutting out the plan shape wasn’t too hard but<br />

scooping out the teaspoon from the bottom<br />

of the blank was a nightmare. I abandoned<br />

all power tools because I could see myself<br />

accidentally shaving away my board so I<br />

took to painstakingly hacking a deep uneven<br />

canyon by hand. Many blisters later the<br />

efforts of my hard labour unearthed…. a<br />

piece of crud.<br />

MARK: It’s been good to see the terrified look<br />

in Dave’s eyes today. After all the bluster, pregame<br />

taunts and early sledging, the wheels<br />

have fallen off as he creates the world’s<br />

shallowest fruit bowl.<br />

As far as my design goes, other than a little<br />

indecision on the depth of the tail, all has<br />

worked out well really well so far. Working<br />

with wood is so much easier on the senses<br />

than foam and Paulownia is a really friendly<br />

wood to work with. The rocket takes shape.<br />

LATEST: PROJECTS<br />

5. 6.<br />

7.<br />

8.<br />

1 - 4: Drawing our plan shape onto the blanks 5 - 6: Cutting the plan shape out with an<br />

electronic jig 7- 9: Draw on your rail bands and take to it with a sander<br />

9.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

69


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70 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

www.facebook.com/surfingpapuanewguinea


DAY TWO<br />

DAVE: Well, it surely couldn’t get any<br />

worse than day one. Mark was laughing.<br />

He was well and truly in the box seat and<br />

my dugout canoe looked no better than the<br />

day before.<br />

LATEST: PROJECTS<br />

10.<br />

I was hoping I could redeem myself or<br />

at least finish something with some<br />

semblance of an alaia. I was determined to<br />

get ‘my eye in’ and by goodness, for some<br />

reason it all clicked. What I had learnt<br />

from my first shaping experience all came<br />

flooding back. I was in the zone and Mark<br />

was back on the ropes.<br />

14.<br />

11.<br />

Hand sanding suited me way more than<br />

the planer and allowed me to discover my<br />

zen or whatever it is called. I even had my<br />

‘blue-steel’ gaze down pat. I gently and<br />

gradually brought my board back to life. I<br />

was in a state of shock. Unbelievably at<br />

the end of the day it actually looked pretty<br />

bloody good.<br />

MARK: With rough-shaped blanks waiting,<br />

we got stuck into the sanding for the day.<br />

As Dave is challenged by any tool more<br />

complicated than a rock or a stick, he keeps<br />

hand-sanding, while I opt for the noisier,<br />

yet quicker, electric version.<br />

15.<br />

16.<br />

Paying extra special attention to just how<br />

soft this wood is, I work through the grades<br />

of sandpaper to get a remarkably smooth<br />

finish and a not-too-shabby concave.<br />

12.<br />

A bit of hand sanding on the rails later and<br />

we grab a beer while we wait for Captain<br />

Clumsy to finish. He’s pretending to look for<br />

bumps he can’t really see, as he rounds his<br />

Peanut’s tail with a small planer.<br />

Yes, Dave’s pre-school-skill wood reduction<br />

project is coming along nicely. If he<br />

keeps going, he’ll only have a Pauwlonia<br />

skateboard deck left. His saving grace is his<br />

cheating - getting Dave #2 to do his work<br />

for him. Slacker.<br />

18.<br />

13.<br />

Mercifully, he finally stops and we move<br />

onto the big, scary router which is going to<br />

make holes in our fantastical creations to<br />

fit a leash plug. ‘Leash plug?!’ the purists<br />

scoff! Damn straight. When you’re as bad<br />

a swimmer as I am, that ‘kook cord’ is your<br />

best friend.<br />

Ever the bandwagon-hopper, Dave decides<br />

he wants one too.<br />

After a little demo, the router turns out to<br />

be not so scary and Dave #2 helps us both<br />

by setting the plugs with Epoxy.<br />

Our work is done for the day.<br />

10: Draw on your rail bands<br />

and take to it with a sander<br />

11 - 12: Carving our concaves<br />

13: Shaping the nose (Mark<br />

has a big one)<br />

14 - 15: Finishing touches -<br />

sanding 40 grit, 80, 120...<br />

16: Shaping the tail on the<br />

peanut with a small planer<br />

17: Setting the plug with epoxy<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

71


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P: 03 9588 2533<br />

E: info.sales@paulowniasurfboardsupplies.com<br />

W: www.paulowniasurfboardsupplies.com<br />

ARTWORK<br />

DAVE: Righto. I looked at my alaia and<br />

wondered how in hell I had got away<br />

with that one. I mean, it didn’t look half<br />

bad and I was in with a fighting chance<br />

against the South African.<br />

Now the artwork. This is where I<br />

struggled in the fibreglass board<br />

challenge (see smorgasboarder #4).<br />

After all, Mark is a graphic designer/<br />

artist - I am neither. Anyhow, thank<br />

goodness I’m comfortable with the<br />

concept of cheating, so I promptly<br />

briefed my kids - who can draw...<br />

I found the design I was after on the<br />

internet. I printed it and the kids traced<br />

it (hey, I said I was comfortable with the<br />

concept of cheating.) They transferred it<br />

onto the board with pencil and I took to it<br />

with what I think was a soldering iron<br />

(I am not into this technical jargon). It<br />

was family bonding stuff.<br />

The finishing touch, a nose dip of<br />

Blue Loo. That’s right, toilet cleaner<br />

(thanks Simon Skerry.) Tip - You need<br />

to seal the Blue Loo artwork with either<br />

a marine or polyurethane varnish, as it<br />

will be literally flushed away by the surf.<br />

As I would later find out. Kind of makes<br />

sense really.<br />

The end result was... It looked bloody<br />

magnificent. The kids and I agreed that<br />

Mark was rooted. I promptly took a<br />

photo of the board and sent it to Mark<br />

to taunt him.<br />

20.<br />

21.<br />

Laser engraving by Dean at<br />

iburnthings.com<br />

72 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


MARK: I had been pretty cocky and confident that<br />

I was doing okay. I took my eye off the ball for a<br />

minute and Dave gazumps me with getting his kids<br />

to do it. Seriously?! I’m stuffed... My own artwork<br />

will be irrelevant now, because I can’t beat the<br />

sentiment and I can’t get my own littlies onto the<br />

job because the idea’s taken. I’m no copycat.<br />

After a lot of quiet sweat and consideration,<br />

pondering excuses like a vague, minimalist<br />

rationale that may allow me to get away with no<br />

artwork at all, I finally realise I need to go as far<br />

opposite as I can. Bring on technology!<br />

A friend, Dean Slockee, happens to own an<br />

industrial laser engraving machine and agrees to<br />

take on the task of burning something witty into<br />

the wood for me.<br />

Thanks to one large machine whizzing away, I<br />

was soon the owner of a cool engraving of the<br />

logo HMS PFD... His Majesty’s Surfboard the<br />

Personal Floatation Device.<br />

22.<br />

OIL UP<br />

DAVE: A 50/50 ratio mix of<br />

Linseed Oil and Gum Turpentine to<br />

ensure maximum penetration and<br />

water protection. Paint on, wipe<br />

of excess after half an hour, wait<br />

12 hours, apply the next coat.<br />

You then proceed with further<br />

coats reducing the Gum Turps<br />

percentage each time.<br />

I decided it was family bonding<br />

time again so all four of us<br />

took to the task at hand. Liquid<br />

mixture sprayed everywhere from<br />

wayward brushes. At the finish<br />

the board was good but I felt like<br />

a corner shop kebab.<br />

This baby was now ready to surf.<br />

“This baby<br />

was now<br />

ready to surf”<br />

23.<br />

19: A hairy man with<br />

big cutlery<br />

20: Crisp lines on the<br />

test piece of MDF,<br />

as technology meets<br />

ancient craft...<br />

21: Fire the... “lay-zer”<br />

22: Oiling the boards<br />

with the help of the<br />

Swan clan.<br />

23: The final craft<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

73


LATEST: PROJECTS<br />

TEST DAY<br />

Given I was still a cripple because of my injury<br />

and couldn’t surf, and Mark can’t surf, it was<br />

up to Dave #2 from Surfing Green to give the<br />

boards a test run. Nic and the kids were also<br />

there to judge the artwork on the boards. All<br />

disciplines formed part of our competition.<br />

ARTWORK SCORE<br />

NIC: “Given my love of all things<br />

symmetrical, Mark’s the winner<br />

hands down. Mark’s a 9. You<br />

(Dave) are a 7.”<br />

DAVE: In fairness it was a terribly<br />

hot day and Nic was obviously<br />

feeling the affects of sun stroke.<br />

DAVE #2: “I have named yours<br />

the Paddlepop Stick’ and Mark’s<br />

the ‘Money Clip’. I must say I<br />

like a curve instead of a straight<br />

line. So I would have to say ‘The<br />

Paddlepop stick’.<br />

“Also, because it’s handmade,<br />

you know. Machine designs<br />

are not quite the go on alaias.<br />

Plus your design features King<br />

Neptune, ruler of the sea. You<br />

can’t go past that.”<br />

MARK: That is because I am a<br />

machine.<br />

DAVE: Dave #2 makes a fair point<br />

and I must say I agree. Mark might<br />

as well have machine-shaped his<br />

blank as well.<br />

MARK: And as to your Peanut...<br />

with Blue Loo on it. I’m sure I’m<br />

not the only one who sees the<br />

irony of the peanut/loo connection<br />

here. Hilarious, my friend. I do<br />

believe that might have been a<br />

subconscious admission of defeat.<br />

PADDLE POWER<br />

DAVE #2: “Mark’s board is easier<br />

to paddle because it has a bit<br />

more length. And your style of<br />

board tends to slide around and<br />

spin under you.”<br />

DAVE: Fair point, Dave #2, but I<br />

had accounted for our test pilot to<br />

have a little more friggin’ skill. Of<br />

course it’s difficult! This board was<br />

made for pros, you kook.<br />

MARK: Dave #2, you are a<br />

champion and truly know your<br />

stuff. I have often been told that<br />

the extra length is a bonus. I am so<br />

happy and humbled to have been<br />

judged by such an adept rider and<br />

proficient surfer.<br />

THE RIDE SCORE<br />

DAVE #2: “I would say I probably<br />

got better waves on Mark’s, but I<br />

liked the feel of your one. I have<br />

used boards like yours before and I<br />

prefer that shape, but today I think<br />

I got a couple of better waves on<br />

Mark’s one.”<br />

DAVE: That’s good Dave #2 but to<br />

be honest I don’t really trust your<br />

comments anyway.<br />

My thoughts on the conditions for<br />

our test day was that the surf was<br />

crap and as such rendered judging<br />

of each board’s glide inconclusive.<br />

Therefore there will be a rematch.<br />

To be continued...<br />

MARK: I appreciate your<br />

sensitive response, Dave #2.<br />

I know how hard it is to be<br />

blunt when Dave’s bottom lip<br />

is wobbling and little tears are<br />

welling in his eyes.<br />

“Nobody doesn’t<br />

like peanuts”<br />

Dave<br />

74 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


ACROSS: Dave #2 and Nic judge the artwork.LEFT: Dave #2 hangs his<br />

head in shame having to carry the peanut in public. BELOW: Rocket ride,<br />

even on tiny dribblers. True art, true craftsmanship of the HMS PFD.<br />

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Craft of the day”<br />

Mark<br />

And there you have it<br />

dear readers, another<br />

inconclusive and incredibly<br />

biased end to a very<br />

enjoyable process.<br />

Building your own board is<br />

just an amazing experience,<br />

no matter how much<br />

heckling is involved along<br />

the way. We hope you find<br />

some inspiration within<br />

these pages to plan your<br />

own project very soon.<br />

THANK YOU<br />

A big thanks to Dave<br />

and Nicola O’Reilly for<br />

welcoming us into their<br />

home and shaping bay,<br />

putting up with our antics<br />

and sharing knowledge of<br />

shaping alaias and other<br />

various tricks of the trade.<br />

It’s greatly appreciated.<br />

surfinggreen.com.au<br />

FACTS AND TIPS:<br />

Shaping kit - $169 for a blank, leash<br />

plug and shaping manual.<br />

Gum Turpentine and Linseed Oil will<br />

set you back a couple of bucks but<br />

should last six months or so.<br />

DAVE #2’ ADVICE: There is lot of<br />

satisfaction in making something out<br />

of wood, no matter what it is. If you<br />

make a surfboard and you can surf it,<br />

it’s even better.<br />

MARK’S ADVICE: Don’t ever plan<br />

to do anything with someone with a<br />

nasty competitive streak like Dave #1.<br />

Drying time: After oiling your board<br />

give it a week to dry otherwise she is<br />

a bit slippery.<br />

Maintenance: After 4 or 5 surfs<br />

give the board a light sand with 120<br />

grit and then re-oil it.<br />

Those interested in taking an alaia<br />

shaping course can contact Dave and<br />

Nic at nicola@surfinggreen.com.au<br />

Surfing.Skating.Wakeboarding<br />

And a great range of gear & clothes<br />

Open 7 days<br />

150 Main Road, Toukley 02 4397 1<strong>09</strong>2<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

75


LATEST: IMAGES<br />

CLARRIE OF<br />

THE COAL COAST<br />

A portfolio of photography by Wollongong’s Clarrie Bouma<br />

WORDS: BEN HORVATH<br />

“It doesn’t get much better than this. The ENE swell with westerly wind combo sets much of the Coal Coast alight.”<br />

76 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


The name Clarrie Bouma rolls off the tongue<br />

sounding like an unusual, high-brow, name from<br />

years past. You could be forgiven for conjuring<br />

up visions of a greying Dutch explorer or English<br />

prep school teacher rather than a Sandon Point<br />

surf photographer.<br />

Clarrie as an individual however, defies such<br />

stereotypes. While he’s well-educated, his<br />

vernacular is more colloquial than campus, his<br />

threads more flanno than formal. The adage that<br />

you are a product of your environment certainly<br />

applies. Clarrie is renowned for calling it as he<br />

sees it, yet at the same time he is approachable,<br />

hard working and down to earth - like most of<br />

his contemporaries from The Gong.<br />

“Standing on the beach or headland shooting<br />

surfing when it’s pumping is a fantastic way to<br />

spend my time,” says the 61-year-old snapper,<br />

who still has as much passion for the surf at<br />

Sandon Point as ever before.<br />

“I started surfing in 1962 on a second hand<br />

9’2” Jackson and Cansdell. I’ve been in bands;<br />

played music professionally, studied, taught, and<br />

nowadays nothing gives me more job satisfaction<br />

than shooting surfing in my local area.”<br />

Educated in Wollongong, Clarrie then spent a<br />

year in the Australian Army as a conscript at the<br />

tail end of the Vietnam War. After the war he<br />

found himself heading overseas on an extended<br />

overland journey through Asia, the Middle East,<br />

Europe and North Africa for two years.<br />

When Clarrie eventually returned to The Gong<br />

from his rite of passage tour, he nailed down a<br />

real job teaching PE, becoming Sports Master<br />

at Edmund Rice College for six years, while<br />

at the same time started a career in music in<br />

an exotically titled band Ersatz Kitsch. He has<br />

played music professionally both in bands and<br />

as a solo musician since.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

77


LATEST: IMAGES<br />

“There was a ‘discussion’ after this wave.”<br />

78 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


“AIM TO ENJOY YOURSELF, NOT TO MAKE A LIVING FROM IT.”<br />

CLARRIE, ON PHOTOGRAPHING SURFING<br />

Ever busy, Clarrie returned to Wollongong University<br />

completing a Bachelor of Arts degree majoring in<br />

Geography. He scored six distinctions and six high<br />

distinctions, before becoming a tutor in the Geography<br />

Department at Wollongong University whilst majoring<br />

in Coastal Geomorphology, so it should come as no<br />

surprise that these days Clarrie literally spends much<br />

of his time exploring northern Wollongong coastal<br />

geography, camera in hand documenting all the action<br />

whenever there are waves.<br />

Clarrie’s Coal Coast exploration is an almost daily<br />

ritual. He rises early, scoping his favourite surf<br />

forecasting websites and cams. If there’s swell, he<br />

drives around surveying the surf, before settling on<br />

a suitable location to shoot. If a mate or local legend<br />

texts or rings through a tip off, he may ponder a short<br />

drive up or down the coast to shoot wherever it is<br />

pumping, but most days it’s a case of heading straight<br />

down to his beloved local – Sandon Point, barely 800<br />

metres from the family home.<br />

For the benefit of interstate readers or those<br />

unfamiliar with Sandon, The Point is one of, if not the<br />

most consistent, right point break on the east coast of<br />

Australia. Despite Sandon’s revered status as a class<br />

wave, in the seventies, eighties and nineties travelling<br />

surfers were always hesitant to visit. “The Jetty” as it<br />

was affectionately known by older locals was virtually<br />

a visitors no-go zone. The Point crew maintained a<br />

fierce reputation as being the most proud, protective,<br />

locals on the coast.<br />

Clarrie’s caper - standing patiently on the rock platform<br />

or headland taking photos and video footage of all<br />

and sundry - is a sign of the changing times. It’s<br />

unimaginable at old Sandon, but attitudes change, and<br />

so too does technology.<br />

His work is based on the premise that every surfer<br />

who paddles out into the line up would love to see an<br />

image or footage of themselves surfing. Documenting<br />

this love, he has released nine local DVDs and<br />

catalogued thousands upon thousands of still images.<br />

Clarrie says: “I figure I am a pretty normal person in the<br />

sense that I have always appreciated all the images I<br />

have of myself participating in a variety of activities.”<br />

The success and continued growth of Clarrie’s website<br />

sandonpointphotos.com vindicates his hunch.To give<br />

you some idea of sandonpointphotos.com popularity,<br />

site traffic peaked in May 2010 with 1.3 million hits for<br />

that month, with over 10,000 unique views.<br />

“Surfers come up to me on a daily basis and ask me<br />

who I’m shooting?” he says with a smile. “I take great<br />

pleasure telling them I shoot anyone who takes off on<br />

a good wave.”<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

79


LATEST: IMAGES<br />

“SPEND YOUR MONEY ON ONE OR<br />

MORE HIGH QUALITY LENSES”<br />

CLARRIE, ON EQUIPMENT<br />

Rainbow at Sandon Point<br />

80 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


THE STILLS QUIVER<br />

Clarrie uses Sony A700 DSLR<br />

camera bodies with quality lenses.<br />

Minolta 600 mm f4 G Series lens<br />

Sony 300 mm f2.8 G Series lens<br />

Minolta 1.4 X and 2 X G Series<br />

convertors<br />

Minolta 80 – 200 mm f2.8 G<br />

Series lens<br />

Minolta 50 mm f1.7 lens<br />

Minolta 28 mm f2.8 lens<br />

Carl Zeiss 16 – 80 mm f3.5 lens<br />

Sigma 10 -20 mm f3.5 lens<br />

THE VIDEO QUIVER<br />

Sony HDR FX1000 camera, and<br />

also a Sony SLT A77 camera.<br />

Clarrie prefers a dedicated video<br />

camera like the HDR FX1000 due<br />

to the ergonomics of the unit.<br />

Clarrie says, “The G Series 20X<br />

zoom lens on the FX1000 does<br />

a great job and zooming and<br />

panning is so much easier. The<br />

day will come when the two<br />

formats can be combined into<br />

one unit and achieve the desired<br />

high quality results on a regular<br />

basis. It is there already for<br />

anything up to 200mm lenses,<br />

but beyond that, actually handing<br />

a DSLR with a 600 mm lens<br />

attached as a video camera is<br />

challenging to say the least.”<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

81


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A LEGACY OF A DIFFERENT ERA WHEN COMPUTERS AND INTERNET WERE MUCH SLOWER.”<br />

CLARRIE, ON TIPS FOR NEW PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />

“In a sense I shoot the wave first and the surfer who happens to be on<br />

that wave fills in the picture.”<br />

Clarrie generally shoots between Woonona and Stanwell Park, an<br />

area blessed with a myriad of quality reefs, pointbreaks, bombies and<br />

beachies that work under a variety of conditions.<br />

“I personally prefer pulled back surfing photos that allow you to see<br />

both the surfer and the wave, as opposed to photos that just show the<br />

surfer. Surfing mags seem to be overflowing with tightly cropped close up<br />

images of sponsored surfers doing critical moves. Of course those frames<br />

have their place, but more diversity would be cool.“<br />

Clarrie’s library of local surfing images fills over 10 terabytes of hard<br />

disk space. Local surfers now posses well over a thousand high quality<br />

images of themselves surfing courtesy of Clarrie’s dedication - everyday<br />

Coal Coast surfers who would otherwise never have seen any decent<br />

footage of themselves now have high quality enlargements of themselves<br />

hanging up on their walls, or even a personal video to enjoy forever.<br />

“My favourite images are classic line up shots with three or more waves,<br />

ideally with surfers on them and some sort of landform somewhere in<br />

the picture,” Clarrie says. “I suppose that personal preference reflects<br />

my love of nature and the environment. My journeys to over 60 countries<br />

have always been to destinations where there are either waves or<br />

mountains.”<br />

One can’t put a price on how valuable such photos or footage is. When<br />

you consider how much time an average surfer puts into his or her<br />

passionate pursuit and rarely gets to see themselves in action, you can<br />

see how important a role Clarrie now plays in the local community. Not<br />

only is he making hundreds of surfers happy, the job satisfaction and<br />

working conditions are pretty hard to match.<br />

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through album after album of imagery and order photos to be printed<br />

to canvas. You can also purchase DVDs for only $10 or his <strong>2012</strong> surf<br />

calendar for only $30.<br />

82 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


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jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

83


TRAVEL: INDO TRIP<br />

RE-STOKE<br />

THE FIRE<br />

The one common bond that surfers all over the world have is the sense of adventure, the goal to surf a new wave, the<br />

excitement of finding something new. Whether it’s a trip up or down the coast or the overseas trip only a few of us<br />

are able to afford, the sense of adventure lies within us all. Jason Robertson shares his particular adventure with us.<br />

WORDS BY JASON ROBERTSON. PHOTOS BY JASON ROBERTSON & LOCAL SURF GUIDE AND RIPPER NANA<br />

“...THE SUN CAME OUT, THE WIND TURNED OFFSHORE AND THE WAVES PUMPED”<br />

84 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


THE DREAM Like so many of you I have done countless trips up and down the<br />

east coast of Oz, a little bit of the west and a few trips to the Goldy but had never<br />

cracked the overseas frontier.<br />

There are so many great overseas options these days but being in my late 30’s<br />

and having a family, it’s been a long time since I have been able to get back to my<br />

surfing roots and go on a boy’s surf trip. When we finally decided to do the trip, we<br />

all agreed to do what we always wanted to do but never had the opportunity to do.<br />

We had grown up watching footage of that new Indo wave or guys way out of their<br />

comfort zone greeted by the perfect wave. While we’re not in our teens or even our<br />

twenties, we still have all the same desires for the unforgettable... So Indo it was.<br />

THE PLAN Looking through countless options available for our trip, Freeline<br />

Indonesian Surf Adventures and their South Sumatran Ombak Indah Losmen deal<br />

ticked all our boxes. South Sumatra was the perfect location, still a fairly new<br />

frontier, not overly crowded, plenty of adventures to be had and unknown spots to be<br />

found - all organised by a professional and friendly company as was evident form the<br />

start with Annie - wife of the Freeline co-founder Nev Hines - who made all booking<br />

details a breeze.<br />

THE TRIP From Jakarta International, we were transferred onto Bandarlampung<br />

Sumatra, where we were picked up by our drivers. With boards and bags loaded, we<br />

settled in for a six-hour road trip to our camp. Adventure we wanted and adventure<br />

is what we got. Being my first trip overseas, the road trip to Ombak Indah was an<br />

eye opener, by which I mean WIDE open and white-knuckled. Anyone who has<br />

experienced Sumatran traffic and the trip I’m talking about will know - imagine six<br />

hours at top speed, overtaking on blind corners, squeezing between cars, bikes and<br />

trucks moments before head-on collisions, alongside an endless sea of mopeds<br />

loaded up with anything from a family of five to boxes full of ducks to drums of fuel.<br />

THE SPOT We arrived at Ombak Indah late that night. As tired as I was, the first<br />

thing I did was wax up, ready for the first surf day of the trip. I must have woken up<br />

every half hour or so waiting for first light. It was a rainy day and the surf looked stormy<br />

and slightly onshore, but the excitement was running through every one of my senses.<br />

We were straight out there after seeing a solid set run the full length of the point.<br />

That night, sitting around the dining area with a Bintang in hand, the stories from<br />

other travellers started to flow. A guy on his last night there showed us footage of<br />

his first day at the point and it looked insane. We all agreed we would be happy if it<br />

was only half that good for us. If someone told us then that his footage was only half<br />

as good as what we were going to get, we would have never believed it.<br />

The next day - and what would turn out to be close to the whole trip - the sun came<br />

out, the wind turned offshore and the waves pumped. Almost every day of the 14-<br />

day trip, you could have surfed three times a day. The surf ranged from 3-8ft (sorry<br />

Eddie, I mean 4ft) with slight changes in direction changing the wave slightly. If you<br />

could say there was one negative to 3-8ft perfection, it was that a lot of the other<br />

breaks in the area only break when it’s too big or too small at the point, but while we<br />

spent most of our time at the point, we still got to sample a few other quality waves.<br />

THE GRATITUDE The Sumatran people and the staff at Ombak Indah where<br />

absolutely amazing and we were all humbled by the hospitality shown to us by<br />

Annie and her staff. Unfortunately, the week before we arrived the great Nev Hines<br />

lost his battle will ill health and passed away. The way his team treated us through<br />

our trip in their time of grief would have made him extremely proud and this will be<br />

something we will all treasure for the rest of our lives.<br />

On behalf of our whole crew I would like to thank Annie, Stu, Nana, Eddie, the whole<br />

Freeline crew and the late and great Nev for the trip of a lifetime. It might have<br />

taken me 39 years to get my first overseas surf trip but it has rekindled the spirit of<br />

surf adventure in me. It won’t be my last.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

85


R É UN<br />

The wedging reef break at St Pierre provides plenty<br />

of opportunity to blow up. With a sharp bottom and a<br />

strong current it’s got the ability to kick your ass.<br />

86 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


INDIAN<br />

O C E A N N O T E S<br />

TRAVEL: PLANE TRIP<br />

ION<br />

“I’ve heard speak of an island.<br />

A difficult to reach, seldom<br />

ventured place requiring<br />

courage, faith and the ability<br />

to remain calm in your own<br />

loneliness. Apparently, it’s a<br />

mysterious land clouded in<br />

danger and a crucible to old<br />

cultures.<br />

“We don’t have much time, if the<br />

waves are good shall we go?<br />

“If we choose to, we’ll need to<br />

embrace it with open minds, and<br />

of course, ride its treacherous<br />

waves with no fear.<br />

“Sounds intense. We go”.<br />

WORDLY-WISE TRAVELLER JAY KILLVAN<br />

PAINTS A POETIC PICTURE OF AN<br />

AFRICAN ISLE, EAST OF MADAGASCAR<br />

AND SOUTH WEST OF MAURITIUS IN<br />

THE INDIAN OCEAN. THIS IS REUNION.<br />

WORDS AND PHOTOS: JAY KILLVAN<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

87


It was one of the shortest conversations on choosing a surf location I’ve ever<br />

had, though the anticipation had it feeling as though it’d be one of the longest.<br />

The airport terminal is fresh this morning, busy with dizzy people unsure of<br />

what to do and nervously shuffling towards departure gates, onwards to<br />

transfer, their souls being shipped somewhere else. This adventure fits right in.<br />

Winter tarmac in disarray as a Chilean volcano spews forth ash miles high,<br />

troubling engines of aircrafts wanting safe passage around the southern<br />

latitudes. But not this jet, humming West. The digital portal in the seat<br />

back attempts to contain the fury of an island very much alive. A black rock<br />

embedded in a sea of mineral blue, complete with voluminous rain, lava and<br />

swell, squashed awkwardly into the in-flight video. It was now known that this<br />

modest island has a fiery heart and is constantly in motion.<br />

A few hours in we’re served a view of our lands red heart and cuisine-like<br />

airline food, the captain playing tour guide, hostess playing chef, positions of<br />

yogi sutra in tight seats prove testing and damn, a Valium would’ve been a<br />

good idea right now. Twelve hours of confined air transfer, it isn’t pretty, though<br />

the hostess is.<br />

W E L C O M E<br />

Arriving in the dead of night amplified the secrecy. Cool humid air and a red<br />

Hawaiian-like soil at Roland Garros airport are small clues heightening the<br />

thrill. Driving south was a night rush, crazy mental drivers belting along at<br />

ludicrous speeds, on a highway that hung off a cliff face, it takes an effort to<br />

maintain concentration. The arduous flight coupled with this manual wagon, its<br />

steering wheel flipped to the left side, has entry into this island being testing,<br />

almost tricky.<br />

Slowing on approach to our supposed accommodation we can hear the ocean,<br />

a sonorous roar belted through the still night as we navigated up a steep<br />

hillside. The higher we weaved the more savage it became. It was a spook.<br />

What lay out there in this black abyss will be revealed in the light of day as the<br />

stage for our surfing games.<br />

An early darkness held in by the towering extinct volcanic peak of Cirque de<br />

Mafate gave time to observe and slowed the morning down, wiping off the<br />

initial froth most surf adventures have. We’re on island time now, dawn is very<br />

different here, and the eastern sun’s lazy rise ensures the people of the west<br />

coast start late, so we should too.<br />

Finding Bruno’s surfer’s temple from the Internet wasn’t easy; with foot on<br />

ground it was clear why. Hundreds of holiday dwellings lie scattered across<br />

the western side of the steep mountain face, all looking private and secluded,<br />

hidden away amongst a low lying dark green scrub. His wooden hand shaped<br />

two-story home perched up high overlooking the bay at St Leu is simply<br />

winning. A Frenchman with a local wife, parasailing gear in the garage,<br />

telescopes and huge glass windows - he knows how to live on the water.<br />

A view over the broadest scope of Indian Ocean had it floating on the sea and in<br />

the clouds. The first sunrays switched on the cobalt blue, with palms filtering the<br />

view straight down the barrel of one of the World’s better left-handers, centre<br />

stage was revealed. High enough to watch swell lines hit the outside of the reef<br />

and refract down the line, close enough to mind-surf the bending walls.<br />

ABOVE: The hike to the top<br />

of Piton De La Fourniase, one<br />

of the worlds most active<br />

volcanoes, is not an easy one,<br />

especially in thongs. Looking<br />

east into the Indian above the<br />

clouds.<br />

BELOW: The west coast of<br />

the island has no real quality<br />

surf, though it does have some<br />

amazing natural features. The<br />

idyllic Niagara Waterfall.<br />

BOTTOM: Reunion Island is<br />

a celebration of many things,<br />

and it’s the people of this island<br />

that make it happen.<br />

C A R N A V A L<br />

A stroll through the ambience of the classy coastal town St Gillie had us<br />

becoming absorbed, perhaps lost. A small grid of clean streets peppered<br />

with the French way and tight with European cars, it could’ve been a summer<br />

in Hossegor for all we knew. Cute beach girls with not much on, tourists<br />

meandering absently, grommets on a small breakwall right… A real kick.<br />

Turning a corner we’re confronted with a streaming mass of people. Noise and<br />

energy paint the day in vibrant colour, costumes and smiles become alive in a<br />

swirl of expression, the people are about to dance. Anticipation sets the heart<br />

racing, screams and jungle beats echo through the laneways and within an<br />

hour an exotic parade is happening down main street. Things went from sleepy<br />

French to boisterous Brazilian in a blink.<br />

The mix of people is broad, they’re celebrating darker days of slavery and<br />

pirates, sugar and coffee, rum and revolutions, African, Indian, French,<br />

88 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


Chinese and Madagascan to name a few, simply<br />

interpreted as Creole which works just fine right<br />

now, this harmony doesn’t seem to care for<br />

orientation.<br />

Surf adventures deliver all kinds of magic; right<br />

now it’s under the footsteps of a procession<br />

of extravagantly dressed women in costumes,<br />

surging through the crowd. Headpieces captivate,<br />

alluring are the ornate fabrics and their deep<br />

smiles offer an attractive portal into history.<br />

Confident men perform supreme displays of<br />

coordination and strength, flipping and twisting<br />

to loud rhythms from simple taught skins being<br />

beaten to hell. Howls and high music like you’ve<br />

never heard it, clashing symbols, steel clanging,<br />

exhibited by a flamboyant excited people.<br />

Carts of curious food and steaming hotplates<br />

send fierce clouds of aromatic bliss, the scents<br />

of the old world light up a salivating palette.<br />

The mass of people in a Carnaval mood wrap up<br />

around out of sight, island life is bigger than it<br />

seems in the cultural hot pot of this little town.<br />

Wandering into such an intimate display of their<br />

lives make us feel fortunate, out of respect it is<br />

hard to leave.<br />

With the swell now smacking the breakwall<br />

down in the port, we have to make a choice. Hit<br />

that small bar packed with pretty people, or go<br />

ride those waves?<br />

M A R I N E<br />

Black intrusive lava headlands and absent lineups<br />

played testament to the islands mysterious<br />

character. It’s not so much the live coral reefs<br />

riddled with urchins that prove testing - it’s the<br />

past and the present activity from toothed beasts<br />

in the west coasts marine park.<br />

Two months prior to arrival a surfer had been<br />

dismembered up the coast at Boucan. A few<br />

days ago a bodyboarder was mauled and floated<br />

past others in the line up, minus limbs with a<br />

stomach, to be stretchered off the beach in a<br />

body bag. His soul is not the first, or last that this<br />

sea will consume.<br />

It isn’t a free ride here. Knowing your maker<br />

may lie in the dark blue shadows of the channel<br />

continuously haunts the mind, making every<br />

surf a nervous one, so you can forgive the local<br />

fraternity if they seem a little high-strung.<br />

While St Leu is the centerpiece that seems to<br />

have avoided fatalities, the immediate path south<br />

to St Pierre, which is packed tight with numerous<br />

reefs and points that are mostly empty, tells<br />

another story. Head north towards l’Hermitage<br />

there are more regularly surfed locations though<br />

statistically, the water is tainted a darker red.<br />

Talking with a slim Madagascan girl, watching<br />

a left-hander peel off down the line on a river<br />

mouth reef started off like all conversations we’d<br />

been having. She believed that the Bulls are the<br />

notorious pests of these waters that hunt the<br />

fresh waters of the river mouths, where after<br />

heavy rain you’ll be surfing alone. It was the first<br />

or second topic of conversation with tourists and<br />

locals alike, ensuring this surf adventure was<br />

plagued with reminders.<br />

We found solace riding the portside waves of<br />

St Pierre. A high-energy youthful community,<br />

where breakdancing, skateboarding and parkour<br />

are alive on the streets and high performance<br />

surfing is in the water. Watching a group of<br />

European pros working on sponsor photos made<br />

it hard to gauge the local talent, as Le Jetty was<br />

like most surf locations of the island, clustered<br />

packs of surfers paddling over each other hunting<br />

set waves. Sessions ranging from overhead<br />

oily smooth perfection to summer side-shore<br />

mush were great canvases, enabling all types of<br />

surfers some breathing space and moments to let<br />

the feet dangle.<br />

As the sun heads toward the horizon the crowd<br />

thins, though with hours left to surf it’s a race<br />

against the power of the mind to stay out. Dusk<br />

is the time for a higher state of awareness. Play<br />

it safe, or paddle out for one more wave?<br />

F U R N A C E<br />

Circumnavigating the island took a full day.<br />

The south was picturesque, Jurassic, and an<br />

abundance of empty waves. The west coast<br />

from the south is divided up by lava flows that<br />

smoked hot in the morning sun, and stony<br />

riverbeds that carry mountain rain seaward in<br />

the wet season. Further north, idyllic stretches<br />

provide postcard moments but little in the way<br />

of surf. The northern tip with murky waters and<br />

murkier towns didn’t inspire a surf or a photo,<br />

and the surrounds of the countries capital, St<br />

Denis, with it’s industrious city hustle, black sand<br />

and pebbled beaches, concluded a contrasting<br />

collective that had the west coast feeling like the<br />

only place to be. The diversity of this trip around<br />

the island was closer to experiencing a mission<br />

across the world.<br />

On this island, you can reach the top of the<br />

world. High above the clouds with a full view<br />

of the ocean is Piton de la Fournaise, one of the<br />

TRAVEL: PLANE TRIP<br />

“It isn’t a free ride here.<br />

Knowing your maker may<br />

lie in the dark blue shadows<br />

of the channel continuously<br />

haunts the mind”<br />

Dusk sessions, even here in the shorebreak at<br />

St Leu, are sketchy moments.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

89


É UNION<br />

world’s most active volcanos. With<br />

an hour drive and a 3-hour hike you<br />

can peer into the steaming gateway<br />

to hell, unguided. It’s all very intense,<br />

consequential if you make a bad<br />

decision. The experience of a lifetime<br />

requires preparation and a high level<br />

of physical fitness - no fakers at 8,600<br />

feet. If you really want to stand on the<br />

roof of the world, perhaps get closer<br />

to your God, you can do it here.<br />

Reunion is a French Island, and it feels<br />

like that on land. Though in the deep blue<br />

its a mysterious and unforgiving domain.<br />

P O W E R<br />

The wave data was obvious on the<br />

computer, though as I looked at the<br />

stretch of reef directly in front of<br />

Bruno’s, it was concerning. The ledge<br />

on the point was blasting fountains<br />

of water a mile high. Triple overhead<br />

and stacked to the horizon, it was an<br />

awesome display of power.<br />

This most recent computer model was<br />

indicating waves three times this size<br />

for the next coming days. The fetch of<br />

this swell charging around South Africa<br />

was lengthy - a monstrosity charging<br />

our way. Every swell that hit the coast<br />

had played true to its digital word,<br />

and this 18 second 10- 12ft behemoth<br />

wasn’t going to be any different.<br />

A local board shaper made it simple.<br />

“It’s always like this in winter’.<br />

There would be a few days before<br />

this new swell would erupt, and with<br />

the existing swell still pumping, it<br />

provided plenty of time to sample the<br />

unique walls of St Leu.<br />

At a size it’s washing the kids to the<br />

end of the line while the old boys sit<br />

super far out, and only the European<br />

pros knew where to sit for the thicker<br />

inside waves that grind more powerfully<br />

through to the inside. Assessing the<br />

impending dogleg more accurately and<br />

picking off a keg was the key.<br />

There is power in the water and in<br />

the surfers. A local legend known<br />

for enforcement confronted me with<br />

garbled English, his name apparently<br />

Tarzan. I laughed at his comedic size, a<br />

huge man with massive hands gripping<br />

the paddle of his SUP craft, waving<br />

it in my face. A local supported my<br />

chuckle as we both saw his act as a<br />

harmless one. An Aussie compatriot<br />

was told to f*ck off by a big, burly,<br />

bearded Creole giant on the inside,<br />

which kept his sessions short. Yet it’s<br />

far from the aggressive gladiatorial<br />

stadium it was rumoured to be.<br />

The outside of the wave is relatively<br />

slow for a reef wave, though the<br />

dogleg towards the inside delivers the<br />

power. Reef surprise boiling in front<br />

of you while the lip dances above,<br />

waiting to be smashed. After a day<br />

90 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


The golden hour at dusk sees empty waves peel off everywhere.<br />

With toothy beasts patrolling these w aters, it wouldn’t matter if<br />

was flawless - the line up would still be empty.<br />

The famous left-hander of<br />

St Leu - it’s a canvas open<br />

to all types of artists.<br />

TRAVEL: PLANE TRIP<br />

“After a day of riding this wave the fatigue is revealed through sore hips and legs... It’s a pleasurable pain”<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

91


92 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


“Closing days<br />

the French<br />

way is good<br />

for morale.”<br />

of riding this wave the fatigue is revealed through sore hips and legs, and<br />

the back of the calf aching from being spring loaded for 20 seconds at a<br />

time. It’s a pleasurable pain.<br />

It was the fourth block of cheese and eighth bottle of wine. Closing days<br />

the French way is good for morale. Sitting fireside at dusk we watched<br />

the new swell march in with a front of low cloud and rain. The sound<br />

we’d heard on arrival again made it’s way up into Bruno’s house, and at<br />

daybreak a thick haze over St Leu revealed true Indian power. Bombs<br />

exploded on the nearby reefs and the swell lines stacked to horizon made<br />

it clear the boards in the bag were far too small.<br />

The following three days were testing times to be in the hunt for waves.<br />

Sets maxed out in the 15ft range, and winds howled offshore. There were<br />

no surfers around, and St Leu was an out of control nightmare. Driving the<br />

full length of the western side of the island numerous times only fuelled<br />

the frustration. With an abundance of swell and no known locations to<br />

surf, it became a souring taste by the third day. A ski would’ve been great,<br />

so would’ve massive écrous, as any surf was going to be alone.<br />

News came that The Cove up towards St Denis was firing, though with a<br />

flight to make time was not on our side. St Leu would be the last shot and<br />

be the closing chapter. Massive sets washed through and pushed wide<br />

off the reef, the line up was empty, and so was the feeling in the pit of<br />

the stomach. Having fears ruin an opportunity to close the surfing chapter<br />

wasn’t going to happen was it?<br />

C L O S I N G<br />

An outpost of forgotten cultures, a full stop in the sea, this is an island<br />

where you can simply be yourself. While it’s a land of many things, it’s in<br />

the mind where you’ll find challenge and celebration. Towering peaks to<br />

drift high, long ocean horizons to sail at peace and broad smiles creating<br />

mystery and intrigue to delve into. You’ll take more with you than reef cuts<br />

and tanned skin.<br />

On Bourbon Island, the Reunion in the sea, you’ll have read many books.<br />

Though as you’ll now know, it’s ok to have not finished.<br />

Jay Killvan. www.killvan.com<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

93


BUSINESS PROMOTION<br />

TRAVEL: PEOPLE<br />

WORLDLY WISE<br />

THE KEY TO GETTING THE MOST OUT OF A CHARTERED SURF TRIP IS OBVIOUSLY ENLISTING THE HELP OF<br />

SOMEONE WHO KNOWS THE GO. GOOD GUIDE, GOOD TRIP. BAD GUIDE, A WASTE OF MONEY.<br />

Let’s face it, if you are going to spend your hard-earned and book a surf travel package to another country, you sure as hell want your<br />

money’s worth and to score some cracking waves. With the surf season kicking off in the Maldives in March, World Surfaris would like<br />

to introduce you to their team of surf guide professionals in the area, so you know who you’ll be hanging out with when you arrive.<br />

YUSREE ‘EASY’<br />

Handhu (Outer Atolls, Male<br />

and Central Atolls)<br />

Easy by name and easy<br />

by nature - YUSREE is<br />

a laidback, chilled and<br />

committed guide. Making<br />

a study of swell charts and<br />

gauging your ability early on<br />

‘Easy’ creates crowd-dodging<br />

itineraries and his almost<br />

supernatural predictions<br />

repeatedly land you in dream<br />

swell. A local with local<br />

knowledge, with Yusree it’s<br />

all too ‘Easy’.<br />

RICHARD & AMY<br />

Hudhuranfushi Resort<br />

(Male Atoll)<br />

Married in 20<strong>09</strong>, RICHARD<br />

AND AMY KOTCH live a<br />

dreamy lifestyle, chasing<br />

the southern swells in the<br />

Maldives from Apr – Oct and<br />

the North swells in Micronesia<br />

Nov - Mar. The duo are an<br />

unbeatable pair and very<br />

handy with a camera snapping<br />

at you happily as you surf<br />

the best that Hudhuranfushi<br />

and surrounding breaks have<br />

to offer.<br />

NAHU<br />

Manta (Male Atolls)<br />

NAHU is another local<br />

Maldivian. His innate<br />

knowledge of swell<br />

directions, tidal behaviour<br />

and wind effects on the<br />

breaks in the Male Atolls is<br />

the result of many years of<br />

surfing in the area.<br />

Nahu leaves the crowd<br />

behind as he predicts the<br />

right spots, days outside<br />

of the arrival of the swell.<br />

Repeated good feedback has<br />

always highlighted Nahu as<br />

a real asset to the vessel<br />

- the super-comfortable<br />

Manta. He’s one of your<br />

best mates that you haven’t<br />

met yet.<br />

The Ocean Divine...<br />

Serious luxury<br />

complete with chef,<br />

masseuse & more<br />

GAVIN & ADRIAN<br />

Ocean Divine (Male Atolls)<br />

Ocean Divine is what you’d<br />

get if you could float a 5-star<br />

world class surf resort. It’s<br />

the one vessel which we<br />

recommend bringing a nonsurfing<br />

partner.<br />

GAVIN CLARK is a paramedic<br />

for the Billabong team. When<br />

he’s not stitching up the<br />

pros in Tahiti he’s guiding on<br />

the Ocean Divine. Having a<br />

western guide that knows<br />

the Male region well is real<br />

treat. He’ll give you a full<br />

rundown on break behaviour<br />

and then keep a watchful<br />

eye over you. Gavin’s surf<br />

guiding fits in perfectly with<br />

the Ocean Divine’s once-in-a<br />

lifetime experience.<br />

ADRIAN HOWE is an<br />

Englishman with an<br />

incredible passion for surfing<br />

and travel, which he’s<br />

done for the past decade.<br />

An astute surfguide with<br />

attention for detail, he<br />

studies the swell models<br />

and has intimate knowledge<br />

of the Male Atoll breaks.<br />

It’s safety first with Adrian,<br />

as he ensures you’re well<br />

supervised in the line-up.<br />

Apart from that, he’s a great<br />

guy with a big heart and gets<br />

on well with everyone. When<br />

he’s not in the Maldives he<br />

calls Lennox Heads home.<br />

STUMPY, PLAZO, DAVE & ANDY<br />

Handhu-Fahli (Outer Atolls, Male<br />

and Central Atolls)<br />

Handhu Fahli is one of the<br />

few vessels in the Maldives<br />

that offer western guides, all<br />

genuinely stoked on getting<br />

you the swell of a lifetime.<br />

As Aussies they’ll do the<br />

best to pick the waves and<br />

the breaks that suit your<br />

groups expectations. With<br />

the Sunshine Coast as home,<br />

these guys work on a 6-10<br />

week roster to ensure they<br />

don’t burn out.<br />

PETER ‘STUMPY’ WALLACE<br />

Veteran surfer and well<br />

known Sunshine Coast<br />

shaper, Stumpy has enjoyed<br />

eight years of surf guiding<br />

on Handhu Fahli and is one<br />

of the first crew to surf the<br />

outer Atolls. He knows the<br />

region better than any guide.<br />

GRANT ‘PLAZO’ BANNING<br />

started work for World<br />

Surfaris in 2000 on Haveyli<br />

and treasures his Maldives<br />

stint each year. A handy<br />

natural footer who likes to<br />

pull into hollow end sections<br />

on his single fin, Plazo is a<br />

waterman who loves surfing,<br />

fishing and diving... And<br />

hates crowds. He’ll avoid<br />

them at all costs and sneak<br />

off to some secret spot to<br />

max out your surf time.<br />

ANDY SCHWARTZ<br />

The grom of our guides and<br />

new to the Handhu Fahli<br />

as of last season, Andy is a<br />

committed and surf focused<br />

guide. When he’s not seeing<br />

to your every surf need<br />

on the Handhu Fahli he’s<br />

charging 15ft Shipsterns or<br />

guiding in Samoa for the<br />

off-season. His knowledge of<br />

the Male region is incredible<br />

and his enthusiasm for life<br />

is infectious. Andy will have<br />

you amping for surfing,<br />

fishing or just mucking<br />

around in general.<br />

DAVE BEASLEY<br />

This big, smiley natural<br />

footer has been guiding for<br />

World Surfaris for the past<br />

six seasons. Dave is super<br />

surf focused with great<br />

knowledge of the Male Atoll<br />

breaks. Like all our guides, he<br />

avoids crowds. With his very<br />

relaxed and friendly manner<br />

plus his didge playing skills,<br />

Dave is sure to be a highlight<br />

of your trip<br />

Now you know the faces<br />

and it’s time to discover the<br />

places... To plan your next<br />

Maldives surf trip, find all<br />

the information you need at<br />

www.worldsurfaris.com<br />

94 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

95


ISE<br />

While Australian surfers have descended on Bali in the<br />

chase for wave perfection for decades, thanks to the rise<br />

in popularity of snowboarding over the last ten years or<br />

so, adventure-seeking Aussies are now heading to Japan<br />

in the chase for snow perfection too. The Japanese snow<br />

season coincides with the Australian summer and for those<br />

who are keen to trade their boardies and rashie for a jacket<br />

and beanie the rewards can be spectacular.<br />

96 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


KO<br />

WORDS & PHOTOS: GUS BROWN<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

97


Dreaming of white powder...<br />

NISEKO, JAPAN IS ON!<br />

JAPAN<br />

SNOW<br />

PACKAGES<br />

FROM<br />

$790*<br />

info@snowsurftravel.com.au facebook.com/snowsurftravel Phone 08 8223 5512<br />

SURF SAMOA OR THE MALDIVES FOR $650* Contact us for more details<br />

WWW.SNOWSURFTRAVEL.COM.AU<br />

98 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

*see website for more details


THE TRIP<br />

BEGINS...<br />

With only a few previous<br />

snowboarding experiences I headed<br />

over to Niseko with my partner<br />

and friends in the beginning of the<br />

Japanese spring (early March) on the<br />

promise of vast snowfields covered<br />

in perfect powder. Although Japan<br />

has a choice of highly-regarded<br />

snowfields, some of my companions<br />

had travelled to Niseko the year<br />

before and come back with stories<br />

of buckets of snow, long uncrowded<br />

runs and hospitable locals. This<br />

presented as a real opportunity to<br />

fulfil my snowboarding dreams.<br />

TRAVEL: SNOW<br />

SAPPORO<br />

NISEKO<br />

HOKKAIDO<br />

JAPAN<br />

KYUSHU<br />

SHIKOKU<br />

HONSHU<br />

HOKKAIDO<br />

We arrived on the cusp of the peak<br />

season (early February 2011), which<br />

represented the beginning of the<br />

“Japanese Spring.”<br />

Spring is slightly misleading though,<br />

as the snow hardly stopped falling<br />

and during the two-week trip there<br />

was only one mildly warm day where<br />

the temperature rose above zero.<br />

Perfect.<br />

WHERE<br />

WERE WE<br />

On the southwest side of the northern<br />

Japanese island of Hokkaido, Niseko<br />

is located only 35km from the Sea of<br />

Japan, which on a clear day can be<br />

seen from the mountain tops.<br />

Niseko has an average yearly<br />

snowfall of about 14m, primarily<br />

due to it’s location from which the<br />

relatively warm ocean which meets<br />

the cool airstreams from Siberia.<br />

It has a reputation for some of the<br />

finest, driest powder in the world and<br />

consistently ranks as one of the top<br />

ski resorts in the world.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

99


TOP: Ben and Mick in the gondola<br />

chasing first tracks<br />

FAR RIGHT: View of Mt Yoeti<br />

RIGHT: The bar is open<br />

MIDDLE: Tammy cruises along<br />

100 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


STAYING<br />

Accommodation options are broad from<br />

staying in a Pension (hostel) to a range<br />

of high-end hotels and residences. We<br />

chose to stay in the main Hirafu area,<br />

as it has direct access to the largest of<br />

the ski areas also walking access to a<br />

range of restaurant and bar options.<br />

The closer to the base of the mountains<br />

you are, generally the more expensive<br />

the accommodation is, however most<br />

of your options are within walking<br />

distance to the chairlifts.<br />

TRAVEL: SNOW<br />

EATING<br />

While we came for the snow, the<br />

food definitely represents another<br />

great reason to travel to the Japanese<br />

snowfields. There are enough dining<br />

options within Hirafu village that during<br />

our two week stay, we didn’t have to eat<br />

at the same establishment twice.<br />

The food on offer is very different to<br />

our regular staples, with a large variety<br />

of vegetables, seafood and meats<br />

served in soups and with rice. Mind<br />

you, be careful of what you order, as<br />

it doesn’t always work out in favour<br />

of the western palate - after a big day<br />

of skiing, some cold raw mince and<br />

noodles topped with a raw egg yolk<br />

didn’t quite hit the spot, but hey, that’s<br />

part of the experience...<br />

SO?<br />

For two weeks of snowboarding in<br />

fantastic conditions you can get away<br />

with about $5K per person - cheaper<br />

or more expensive depending on what<br />

your personal preferences are - but hey,<br />

snowboarding has never been cheap.<br />

I definitely rate myself as an average<br />

snowboarder, but I had some of the<br />

most exhilarating experiences of my<br />

life claiming first tracks in the higher<br />

parts of the Hirafu area. Floating on<br />

half a metre of powder was a new<br />

experience and the combined feelings<br />

of weightlessness and speed - what<br />

I imagine flight would be like - is a<br />

sensation that made the trip to Niseko<br />

well worth it. Future trips have a<br />

lot to live up to. Continually stoked<br />

Ben Hewitt, one of our travelling<br />

companions, has been all over the<br />

world snowboarding and rates Niseko<br />

as his number one destination and the<br />

lucky bugger is back again this year!<br />

KNOW<br />

THE NOSH<br />

ETIMAMAY Boiled and salted soya<br />

beans that keep the beer tasting great.<br />

Chew the bean and spit out the husk,<br />

this is the eastern equivalent to the<br />

salted peanut.<br />

GYOZA A Japanese style dumpling<br />

that is boiled then fried and served<br />

with a range of dipping sauces.<br />

OKONOMYAKI This is best described<br />

as Japanese savoury pancake.<br />

Comprising of a batter, and ingredients<br />

including cabbage, bacon, mayonnaise<br />

and sweet sauce, although there are<br />

many variants.<br />

SUSHIMI Thinly sliced raw meats.<br />

RAMEN Japanese noodle dish served<br />

in a meat or seafood based broth with<br />

extras including vegetable, meats,<br />

seaweed and tofu.<br />

TEPPANYAKI This refers to the<br />

process of cooking meats and seafood<br />

as well as vegetables on a flat hotplate<br />

that is heated over gas. But the cool<br />

trick is that it is generally you, the<br />

patron that cooks the food.<br />

TEMPURA Lightly battered vegetables<br />

and seafood that is dipped in sauces.<br />

Good stuff!<br />

YAKITORI Skewered and grilled meats<br />

and seafood.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

101


HIRAFU<br />

The largest ski field in the Mt<br />

Niseko An’nupuri area. Hirafu<br />

has enough for everyone with<br />

beginner and family areas<br />

ranging to advanced runs,<br />

which can be accessed close to<br />

the 1,308m summit.<br />

The mountain is made up of<br />

long, clear runs with large<br />

areas of trees as you head<br />

down the mountain. Night<br />

skiing/boarding is also<br />

available in this area up until<br />

about 9pm at night.<br />

UP &<br />

ABOUT<br />

HANAZONO<br />

This area can be accessed by<br />

bus or from the Hirafu area. It’s<br />

for the guns and the beginners.<br />

With a massive half-pipe and<br />

plenty of big jumps for the<br />

risk takers, this is where the<br />

hot Japanese boarders hang<br />

out. Also on this part of the<br />

mountain are some of the<br />

longest casual green runs that<br />

really give newbies a chance to<br />

develop their confidence.<br />

NISEKO<br />

VILLAGE<br />

Fairly narrow and quite steep,<br />

this appeared to be more<br />

popular with skiers rather than<br />

boarders.<br />

Well worth a run down to<br />

the imposing looking Hilton<br />

building which dominates the<br />

landscape.<br />

ANNUPURI<br />

This was one of our favourite<br />

areas, well suited to the<br />

beginner and intermediate<br />

snowboarder. Serviced by one<br />

main gondola that gets you<br />

back high on the mountain<br />

in one trip, it’s easy to cover<br />

plenty of ground boarding for a<br />

few hours here. This was also<br />

the least crowded of the areas,<br />

although overall, crowds were<br />

not really an issue at all.<br />

Moving between the different areas can be done by negotiating lifts and traversing the mountains,<br />

or by catching the regular resort buses - which are included in ticket prices. Individual lift tickets can<br />

be purchased for the Annupuri, Niseko Village, and Grand Hirafu - which includes Hirafu and<br />

Hanazono - or alternately, as an all mountain pass, the Niseko United Pass. You’re looking at about<br />

$75 for a one-day pass, or less, depending on the number of days you’re staying.<br />

102 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


The Niseko United ski field area is made up of 4 main areas; Hirafu, Niseko Village, Annupuri and<br />

Hanazono. The Hirafu area was officially opened as a ski resort in 1961 and due to the consistency of conditions<br />

and subsequent popularity has continued to develop into the vast network of lifts and resorts that it is today.<br />

TRAVEL: SNOW<br />

ELSEWHERE<br />

If you’re keen to get off the<br />

beaten track there are also a<br />

range of backcountry boarding<br />

experiences that can be<br />

undertaken, but it’s important<br />

to make use of professional<br />

guides when doing so, as the<br />

mountain is massive and the<br />

snow is deep.<br />

Each area has its day,<br />

depending on the direction of<br />

the wind, but between these<br />

areas there’s plenty to explore.<br />

Over the two weeks, even<br />

though we were finding new<br />

runs each day, I’m sure there<br />

were plenty left unexplored.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

103


EQUIPMENT<br />

DRINKS<br />

Alcohol in general is<br />

inexpensive, particularly<br />

spirits, which can<br />

be purchased at<br />

convenience stores for<br />

cheaper than duty free<br />

prices.<br />

The main beers include<br />

Asashi, Sapporo and<br />

Kirin but our choice on<br />

tap and in the can was<br />

definitely Sapporo. On<br />

tap, beer is about $5<br />

for the equivalent of a<br />

schooner.<br />

The famous rice wine,<br />

Saki - which in my<br />

assessment tastes<br />

similar to fermented<br />

urine - is a must try, if<br />

only as an exercise in<br />

cultural appreciation.<br />

Other recommended<br />

alcoholic beverages<br />

include Sours (a fruit<br />

flavoured spritzer) and<br />

any of the countless<br />

varieties of peach wine.<br />

RELAXING<br />

Onsens are popular in<br />

Japan and there are<br />

many around the area.<br />

These are basically bathhouses<br />

which utilise the<br />

naturally geo-thermally<br />

heated, mineral rich<br />

waters which permeate<br />

from the mountains.<br />

They are the perfect cure<br />

to a world of body pains<br />

and aches after a big<br />

day of boarding. But, it’s<br />

important to note that<br />

to use these onsens one<br />

must be buck-naked...<br />

It is cold... Bloody cold,<br />

in Niseko... A lot colder<br />

than in the Australian<br />

snowfields, so make sure<br />

you get some high quality<br />

gear. The winds on top of<br />

the slopes can go right<br />

through you and given<br />

there is so much powder<br />

when you cook it, snow<br />

goes everywhere.<br />

I made the mistake of<br />

getting some cheap, fake<br />

crap off eBay and paid<br />

the price. I eventually<br />

had to endure the shame<br />

of admitting defeat and<br />

heading to one of the<br />

snow shops for some<br />

replacements. We were<br />

advised that generally it’s<br />

much cheaper and more<br />

sensible to get gear at<br />

home.<br />

ABOVE: Pink pants are not only<br />

fashionable, but a good safety<br />

precaution in the powder<br />

RIGHT: A surf shop in the snow... Check out the Gentem Stick Store when in Niseko<br />

104 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


JAPAN<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

105


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GETTING THERE<br />

Flights leave from all capital cities to Tokyo.<br />

From Tokyo, an internal flight is required to the<br />

New Chitose Airport where you can access a<br />

shuttle bus to take you to the mountains. The<br />

more adventurous and time rich can take a train<br />

journey from Tokyo to Sapporo, then to Kutchan<br />

which is only a short distance to Niseko.<br />

Bing, Blue Cheer, Weber, Brewer, Noll, Hansen, Harbour, Hobie, Holden, Ike,<br />

Jacobs, August, Sunshine,Velzy, Tom Hale, Tyler, Walden, Yater & many more...<br />

lastwaveoriginals@gmail.com • Call 0400 497 534 • www.lastwave.com<br />

2011 TOHOKU<br />

EARTHQUAKE &<br />

TSUNAMI<br />

On the second last day of our trip we turned<br />

on the television in the hotel room and came<br />

across live images of the devastation of<br />

the Tsunami. Until that moment we were<br />

completely unaware of the events unfolding<br />

in the country we were staying. Although high<br />

in the mountains and completely safe, the<br />

emotions and reality of the unfolding disaster<br />

really impacted.<br />

Some of our travelling companions were in<br />

Tokyo and experienced the tremors firsthand.<br />

When flying over the Japanese coastline<br />

returning to Tokyo there was clear evidence<br />

of the devastation which claimed over 18,000<br />

lives from up in the air. The passengers<br />

were silent as they stared out the windows,<br />

digesting what had occurred below and the<br />

impacts on the country and it’s people.<br />

It’s important to note that although a relatively<br />

small country, the snowfields were completely<br />

safe and removed from impact of this disaster.<br />

Choosing to travel to Japan can only be of<br />

benefit and will help the country in the efforts<br />

to try and return to some form of normality.<br />

LINKS<br />

For more information and details on the<br />

various runs, see the Niseko United Website<br />

www.niseko.ne.jp/en/<br />

For great ski holiday packages see:<br />

www.snowsurftravel.com.au and<br />

www.skijapan.com<br />

106 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

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RONU<br />

MY HOME TOWN<br />

With a different approach to our regular local surf town focus, Ben Horvath gives us his own personal insight<br />

into what makes the ‘The Nulla’ tick and the people who make up this tight-knit surf community along with a<br />

rundown on the quality breaks in the region.<br />

Here is Bate Bay and Beyond. A local perspective of the geography, proximity,<br />

politics and people of The Nulla. WRITTEN AND EDITED BY BEN HORVATH<br />

110 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


LLA:<br />

LOCAL: SURF TOWN<br />

Looking south to Jibbon Head and The Royal National<br />

Park from the southern confines of The Kurnell Peninsula<br />

at Voodoo. Bate Bay is full of waves, powerful reefbreaks<br />

and 5km of beachies. PHOTO: Craig Stroh<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

111


THE GOOD<br />

“Andy King and I were talking about how many reefs we<br />

actually have to surf around Cronulla. We concluded that<br />

we don’t know of anywhere in Australia that’s got as<br />

many reefs within a 10 km radius. I reckon from Bundeena<br />

to Kurnell Point we have a good 15 to 20 quality waves<br />

that we hunt down and surf, and that’s not including the<br />

beach breaks.”<br />

Jeremy Hrbac underground Cronulla goofyfoot charger.<br />

Jeremy’s quote highlights the fact that there are literally<br />

dozens of hollow reef breaks of consequence in close<br />

proximity. Cronulla’s reefs have bred generations of<br />

committed, lifelong local surfers who charge. Add the<br />

variety of almost 5 km’s of surfable beach breaks, then<br />

factor in the beauty of the surrounding waterways and<br />

take into account that Cronulla is close enough to the city<br />

to be able to afford a cab ride home from a night out in<br />

Central Sydney or Kings Cross.<br />

“We’ve Got The Best<br />

Of Both Worlds Here”<br />

Therein lies the difference between Cronulla and most<br />

surf enclaves in Australia. There’s world class waves all<br />

within close proximity to the city, airport and a train line.<br />

On the other hand at just over 30 clicks from central<br />

Sydney, Cronulla is also far enough away to feel relaxed<br />

and free. Look south from the beach and all you see is<br />

the natural bushland of The Royal National Park. You<br />

really can balance the best of both worlds, which is why<br />

Cronulla is quite unique. Truth is these days it is pretty<br />

urban, but there’s still a hint of the old relaxed coastal<br />

town vibe and village atmosphere. It really is a great<br />

place for a single surfer or family to live, or visit. A classic<br />

Australian suburb steeped in surfing history.<br />

Speaking of surfing history, make sure you log onto<br />

Chris Stroh’s Cronulla Surfing Museum website. You can<br />

read and view pictures of all the names from Cronulla’s<br />

decorated past and keep abreast of emerging talent,<br />

both contest surfers and local reef charging legends<br />

alike. Go to www.cronullasurfingmuseum.com.au.<br />

Alternatively for a glossy colour print version of Cronulla’s<br />

recent surfing history get your hands on a copy of John<br />

Veage’s “Southern Surf” at Jackson Surfboards, Unleash<br />

bookstore at Westfield Miranda and Regallo gifts at<br />

Woolooware.<br />

You can also view the historic Surfing Gallery in Cronulla<br />

Mall next to the library, or read info and view similar<br />

photos online at:<br />

www.sutherlandshire.nsw.gov.au<br />

For more general tourism information and things to do at<br />

Cronulla and the greater Sutherland Shire go to:<br />

www.sutherlandshireaustralia.com.au<br />

“I love it all, seriously.<br />

I’m well aware of the<br />

stereotype of living in<br />

the Shire bubble, but I<br />

wouldn’t have it any other<br />

way. The bad points I<br />

would say are the traffic<br />

in summer and that<br />

Voodoo doesn’t break<br />

every day.”<br />

Blake Johnston, Cronulla Surfing Academy<br />

112 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


LOCAL: SURF TOWN<br />

Terapai laying into a cruisy, soul arch bottom<br />

turn on an epic Winter’s day at Cronulla Point<br />

in June 2011. PHOTO Whittaker/oceanart.com<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

113


CRONULLA:<br />

MY HOME TOWN<br />

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INTERMEDIATE<br />

BEFORE & AFTER SCHOOL<br />

& WEEKENDS<br />

<strong>January</strong> to February<br />

Tel 9544 0895<br />

www.cronullasurfschool.com<br />

You are able to now book and pay online<br />

The Bad<br />

It seems like just the other day that I<br />

was first introduced to the hike over<br />

the vast desert like sand dunes with<br />

my older sister’s boyfriend and his<br />

buddies at Greenhills. I vividly recall<br />

struggling into my steamer before<br />

bolting out into perfect empty winter<br />

rip bowls on my Hot Buttered single<br />

fin. That was back in the early 80s<br />

when I was a wide - eyed grommet.<br />

These days the dunes are long gone,<br />

and work has just started on a new<br />

subdivision right where the towering<br />

dunes we once trudged over to<br />

escape the crowds once lay.<br />

Everyone who flies into Sydney pretty<br />

much zooms straight over the top off<br />

Kurnell - the birthplace of the nation,<br />

Captain Cook’s original invading/settling<br />

place. I must admit that whenever<br />

I jet over the top, I can’t help but<br />

flash on how ironic it is that the very<br />

things that originally attracted Cook<br />

to land just north of The Nulla – like<br />

the natural beauty of the foreshore,<br />

the safety of the sheltered mooring,<br />

and the abundance of fish and wildlife<br />

are barely recognisable today.<br />

In fact against the modern backdrop<br />

of raped sand dunes, the oil refinery,<br />

desalination plant and associated<br />

industrial pollution, most believe<br />

the local council and various state<br />

governments have a lot to answer for,<br />

but I digress.<br />

“The one and only gripe I have about<br />

Cronulla is the people responsible<br />

for raping our sand hills should be<br />

flogged and banished for life. When<br />

we were grommets we always had<br />

sick rip bowls and banks because of<br />

the dunes.”<br />

Howie, Triple Bull/Cronulla Surf Design<br />

The Ugly<br />

The much publicised ugly racial<br />

tensions or so called Cronulla Riots<br />

that exploded that sad Sunday back<br />

in December 2005 were part urban<br />

growing pains, part insular localism,<br />

but mostly a wave of antipathy to<br />

multiculturism that swept through<br />

the burbs during the Howard/Hanson/Bush<br />

era. Exacerbated by fear<br />

and hostility towards Muslims the<br />

political fear campaign whipped up<br />

by the talk back shock jocks with<br />

their constant rallying against boat<br />

people, terrorism and the then long<br />

standing State Labour government<br />

led by Lakemba based Premier Morris<br />

Iemma virtually guaranteed electoral<br />

populism at the time.<br />

That sad, explosion of alcoholism,<br />

poor policing and confused flag<br />

waving patriotism mostly from day<br />

trippers did taint Cronulla’s reputation<br />

politically, financially and socially for<br />

several years. It hurt innocent local<br />

businesses, real estate prices and<br />

even kept general beach going visitor<br />

numbers down for a year or two.<br />

Bright Future<br />

In hindsight the Cronulla community<br />

learnt that cultural interaction can<br />

generate frictions: Communities can<br />

and do learn from history regarding<br />

what sociologists call ‘bridging social<br />

capital’, that underpinning of trust<br />

between communities that forms the<br />

basis for productive diversity, or they<br />

can choose not to learn and suffer the<br />

consequences.<br />

In Cronulla’s case, signs of positive<br />

change are highly visible. Cronulla<br />

is rapidly developing into a more<br />

114 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


I’m not saying there is anything bad about<br />

Andy King’s nice pit behind the pools, but the<br />

industrial backround the dunes once blocked<br />

sure ain’t so pretty. PHOTO Craig Stroh.<br />

Council maintenance of The Wall in<br />

2008 cost millions. The sand slug will<br />

help protect The Wall and improve<br />

the waves. PHOTO Horvath.<br />

tolerant, multicultural suburb with<br />

a more diverse array of cafes and<br />

restaurants. Equally encouraging<br />

are signs that visiting day trippers<br />

seem more respectful of the<br />

local environment and the local<br />

community. real estate prices are<br />

again on the rise and comparable<br />

to the northern beaches. What<br />

went down those crazy few days<br />

back in 05 really could have happened<br />

anywhere – during the ugly<br />

politics of that era, turns out most<br />

of the protagonists caught the<br />

train to town that day!<br />

A Valued<br />

Resource<br />

In 2008, the Cronulla surfing fraternity<br />

enjoyed a good news story.<br />

Cronulla was named a National<br />

Surfing Reserve.<br />

Bate Bays iconic coastline<br />

encompassing seven unique surf<br />

spots known to local surfers as<br />

Sandshoes, Shark Island, Cronulla<br />

Point, North Cronulla, Greenhill’s,<br />

Merries Reef and Voodoo were<br />

recognised and will be protected.<br />

Cronulla joined other iconic<br />

Australian surf spots like Bells<br />

Beach, Angourie, Lennox Head,<br />

Crescent Head, Maroubra, North<br />

Narrabeen, Margaret River and<br />

Kalbarri on the revered list.<br />

For more on the declaration of the<br />

Cronulla surfing reserve visit the<br />

National Surfing Reserves website<br />

at www.surfingreserves.org<br />

Sand Slug<br />

After a big storm swell Cronulla’s<br />

beaches can often be left devoid<br />

of sand, particularly in front of<br />

The Wall. In the last decade or<br />

so Sutherland Shire Council have<br />

spent millions on maintaining both<br />

the structure of The Seawall and<br />

replenishing sand after storms.<br />

Andrew Pitt - a surfing reef<br />

architect - organised a local Bate<br />

Bay Sand Placement Committee to<br />

consult with council back in 2010.<br />

The committee - “Dippy” Depena,<br />

Brad Whittaker, John Veage, Paul<br />

“Tommy” Tyler and I decided that<br />

when council next dredges nearby<br />

Port Hacking to clear boating<br />

channels the sand shouldn’t just<br />

be dumped randomly off North<br />

Cronulla Beach. As local surfers<br />

we viewed such practices as a<br />

missed opportunity.<br />

In early <strong>2012</strong> the sand from the<br />

Port Hacking dredge will be carefully<br />

placed to form what Andrew<br />

calls a ‘Sand Slug.’<br />

Andrew said, “The sand will be<br />

dumped in water between four<br />

and eight metres deep to form<br />

a two hectare sand slug about<br />

250-400 metres offshore. The<br />

sand slug should improve surfing<br />

opportunities inshore by inducing<br />

peaks instead of closeouts.”<br />

For more on Andrew’s excellent<br />

idea go to his website<br />

www.surfingramps.com.au<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

115


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116 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


Joes Milkbar at The Alley was an epic old hang<br />

and meeting place. Cronulla Boardriders crew<br />

chilling outside Joes back in 92. - Photo Veage<br />

LOCAL: SURF TOWN<br />

Cronulla’s Colourful Past And Strong Club Culture<br />

Generations of grommets have<br />

been surfing in and around Bate<br />

Bay since 1914, when Hawaiian<br />

Olympic swimming champion Duke<br />

Kahanamoko introduced his longboard<br />

to an enthusiastic swimming public.<br />

The fascination with surfing continued<br />

to grow, spurred on by the Californians<br />

in the 1950s when they brought their<br />

short Malibu boards to Cronulla. The<br />

new boards were embraced by the<br />

members of the surf clubs along the<br />

Cronulla beaches and a Sutherland<br />

Shire surfing culture was born.<br />

Bounded on three sides by water<br />

Cronulla was fairly isolated with travel<br />

in and out of the area fairly difficult<br />

prior to the opening of Captain Cook<br />

Bridge in the sixties. Hot summer<br />

weekends in the fifties and early<br />

sixties would bring thousands of<br />

beachgoers to Cronulla by train and of<br />

course they still do.<br />

Long time local and Cronulla Surf<br />

School owner Mark Aprilovic said,<br />

“Beach culture has always been part<br />

of Cronulla’s heritage and is deeply<br />

entrenched in the make-up of its<br />

people and traditions.” In the 50s Surf<br />

Carnivals included Malibu boardriding<br />

events and the late Bobby Brown, a<br />

member of Wanda Surf Club started<br />

winning everything.<br />

Within a few years Malibu riders split<br />

from the surf clubs and boardriders<br />

clubs began to appear. The original<br />

Cronulla Boardriders Club was<br />

established in the early sixties, with<br />

surfers such as Ken Williams, Brian<br />

Jackson, Terry Tumeth and Frank Latta<br />

being members. The Club was very<br />

successful with a huge membership<br />

and survived until 1966. According to<br />

club historian Larry Beaver the ferry<br />

cruise organised by the club turned out<br />

to be a pretty wild night. Brian (Jacko)<br />

Jackson hit the water even before the<br />

ferry had left the wharf. Apparently the<br />

aftermath of the ferry cruise was what<br />

brought the club down.<br />

The late Keith Paul was on that ferry<br />

cruise. Keith was just one of many top<br />

surfers of those days that had moved<br />

to Cronulla. Graham Black, Peter<br />

Townsend and Michael Peterson all<br />

spent lengthy periods surfing in and<br />

around Cronulla as did Martin Potter<br />

in the 80s.<br />

Bobby Brown was a member of the<br />

elite Windansea Club and his younger<br />

brother Terry, who had also performed<br />

well in the Surf Club events, joined<br />

Wanda Beach Boardriders Club. WBBR<br />

as it was known was formed in 1965<br />

and survived officially until the mid<br />

70s, however past members will argue<br />

that the club is still alive in spirit.<br />

After Cronulla Boardriders folded it<br />

didn’t take long for a new club to be<br />

formed. Heaps of good surfers in that<br />

period lived in the nearby St George<br />

area, north of Botany Bay - Captain<br />

Cook Bridge had opened. The new club<br />

was named St. George Boardriders<br />

Club. A lot of Cronulla surfers<br />

followed the St. George Rugby League<br />

team back then, prior to the Sharks<br />

formation. St George was a very strong<br />

club; however by 1972 there was<br />

something like seven boardriders clubs<br />

in Cronulla. Most of them folded during<br />

the mid to late 70s.<br />

In 1978 a new Cronulla Boardriders<br />

Club was established. This club, known<br />

as the Cronulla Sharks has been going<br />

ever since and is one of the strongest<br />

shortboard clubs in the country. 1999<br />

world champion Mark Occhilupo is the<br />

most famous member of the Sharks<br />

and Occy still occasionally returns to<br />

the Nulla to have a surf with the club.<br />

A year or two later a second strong<br />

shortboard club was formed – Elouera<br />

Boardriders Club or EBC. According<br />

to current club president Paul ‘Chook’<br />

Holbrook EBC’s most famous son Glen<br />

‘Ballboy’ Pringle has won 10 club titles,<br />

several Aussie Titles and had a brief,<br />

but successful stint on the ASP world<br />

tour. EBC is arguably just as strong as<br />

Cronulla these days and the friendly<br />

rivalry between the two is legendary<br />

in these parts. The annual King Of The<br />

Beach interclub comp sponsored by<br />

Triple Bull is always won by either EBC<br />

or Cronulla Sharks.<br />

Throughout the seventies and early<br />

eighty’s a few mals were still being<br />

ridden. In 1984 a Cronulla mal rider<br />

named Dave Ryan won the Byron Bay<br />

Malibu Classic from a field of 96. The<br />

final was a tough one with John Giles<br />

and Rusty Miller finishing second and<br />

third respectively. At the presentation<br />

Dave pledged that he would start up a<br />

Malibu Club in Cronulla on his return.<br />

Later that year in the spring, the<br />

Southside Malibu Boardriders Club<br />

was born. Within 3 months the club<br />

had about 30 keen members. Luke<br />

Streater, Paul Lawson and Paul Van<br />

Dam were original members and are<br />

still members today. Photographer<br />

Tim Vanderlaan was an early member<br />

of the club as was Dave Wilson and<br />

son Dane. Initial sponsors were most<br />

notably Jackson Surfboards and<br />

Malibu Rum. Jackson Surfboards are<br />

still a major sponsor of the club today.<br />

Southside Malibu Club Cronulla Inc.<br />

now has over 100 members.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

117


Michael Mackie was equally at home in the tube<br />

at Shark Island or blazing on the beaches before<br />

he moved down south to Ulludulla.<br />

PHOTO Chris Stroh cronullasurfmuseum.com.au<br />

The Surfing Fraternity<br />

Cronulla surfers are generally well<br />

travelled – honed on powerful<br />

reefbreaks, most are competent tube<br />

riders, but are equally adept in mushy<br />

beachies and quite competitive due<br />

to the historically strong boardriding<br />

club culture. In <strong>2012</strong> Cronulla is<br />

currently home to eight boardriding<br />

clubs - Cronulla Sharks, EBC – Elouera<br />

Boardriders Club, Cronulla Point, Cronulla<br />

Christian Surfers, Sandshoes, Cronulla<br />

Girls, Southside Malibu and North<br />

Cronulla Juniors. Add Cronulla SUP, East<br />

Coast SUP and Alliance SUP, three major<br />

surf schools – Cronulla Surf School,<br />

Cronulla Surfing Academy and Sutherland<br />

Shire Standup Paddle School, plus the<br />

strong bodyboarding community and it<br />

can seem like there’s a junior, club, team,<br />

longboard, pro am or surf school lesson<br />

on every second bank some weekends,<br />

not to mention the regular surf club<br />

carnivals, nippers and the like. Somehow<br />

though there are enough waves to go<br />

around, and generally everyone respects<br />

each other and gets along well.<br />

The three strongest clubs have<br />

embraced social media. Cronulla<br />

Sharks have a facebook page www.<br />

facebook.com/people/Cronulla-Sharks-<br />

Boardriders/754069144. Elouera –<br />

ebcsurf.com.au and Southside Malibu<br />

Club – www.southsidemalibu.com.au<br />

Everyone has heard of Cronulla’s most<br />

famous competitive surfers – names<br />

like Bobby Brown, Jim Banks, Mark<br />

Occhilupo, Gary Green, Richard Marsh,<br />

Adam Brown, Phil Macdonald and Kirk<br />

Flintoff - are household names, surfers<br />

synonymous with Cronulla’s evolution.<br />

Perhaps more interesting and often<br />

overlooked is the sheer number of<br />

dedicated and incredibly talented every<br />

day surfers from Cronulla – unheralded<br />

crew who charge serious waves<br />

whenever the swells up. At the risk of<br />

sounding a tad parochial I truly believe<br />

that Cronulla was and still is home to<br />

some of the lowest key, competent<br />

tube riding reef riders in Australia. Ross<br />

Marshall, Michael Mackie, Alby Ross,<br />

Kev Cassidy, Richard James, Mark<br />

Ryan, Gary Hughes, Rod Baldwin, Rusty<br />

Moran, Stuart Darcy, Rod Katis, Roachy,<br />

Jonesy, Andrew Linegar, Mark Moylan,<br />

James Bickerton, Dean Whiteman,<br />

Mick Marjenovic, Simon Taylor, Matty<br />

Hurworth, Damien Hodge, Stu Nettle,<br />

Sparrow, Tweeky, Boots, Liddy and Barty<br />

are all well known Cronulla surfers<br />

who have moved away as crowds have<br />

escalated, but they’re not forgotten.<br />

They all cut their teeth and made a name<br />

for themselves pulling into slabs on<br />

Cronulla’s reefs or shredding the beaches<br />

before resettling up and down the coast<br />

in search of more chilled surrounds.<br />

The Cronulla surfing fraternity has also<br />

sadly lost too many brothers prematurely<br />

over the years. Great surfers like Troy<br />

‘Nugget’ Dennehy, Brett ‘Beaver’<br />

Schwiekle, Andrew Murphy, Shane<br />

Pringle, Pete Smith, Geoff Soleness,<br />

Richard Herbert and Wilbar are local<br />

legends that have passed prematurely in<br />

my 30 plus years of surfing in Bate Bay’s<br />

playground.<br />

Thankfully stacks of individuals – core<br />

committed surfers of the caliber of Chris<br />

Iredale, Gerry Manion, Steve Austin,<br />

Grant Coulter, Sean Charters, Jeremy<br />

Hrbac, Matty Griggs, Andy King, Daryl<br />

Van Der Polder, Fletch, Steve Hare, Graig<br />

Naylor, Hendo, Ross Macdonald, The<br />

Tyte brothers, Phil Carey, The Finbars,<br />

Ashley Gee, Terepai Richmond, Scotty<br />

Yealland, Grant Muir, Craig Cordingley,<br />

Caleb Maclean, Greg and Dave McKinley,<br />

Scotty Baxter, Glen Pringle, Stuart Gooch,<br />

Gav Aked, Wylie Fowler, Danny Maloney,<br />

Leigh Jackson, Luke Weinert, Todd<br />

Mingram, Joel Ethrington, The Johnston<br />

bros, Richie Brown, Ricky Marshall,<br />

Maurer, Sullos, Hogan, Winney, Gaddes,<br />

Macca, Batesy, Sharpy, Raindog, Smurf,<br />

Muzz, Con, Cabbo, Ballard, Jenkins,<br />

Brutzsky, Palmer, Cammo, Durbin,<br />

Browny, Warren, Dewey, Tyler, Blue,<br />

Bonning, Gorrell, Chooko, Brains, Muffin,<br />

Wigs, The Mulders, Vassey, Irvine, The<br />

Horner’s, The Wallace’s, Crispy, Madden<br />

and dozens more I would love to mention<br />

are doing a fine job of flying the flag.<br />

There’s also a whole new gen of young<br />

shredders led by Dyl Haylar, Dyl Hannah,<br />

Rory Jenkins and The Robbo’s in Cronulla<br />

and Jake Stalker, Conner O Leary, Joey<br />

Sears and Ben Dewhurst in EBC who are<br />

making a name for themselves on the<br />

contest scene.<br />

118 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

119


RONULL<br />

So Many Surf<br />

Bate Bay faces south southeast and<br />

Voodoo and the rest of the offshore<br />

Merries reefs serve as a block to<br />

shorter period northeast swells, often<br />

rendering the beachbreaks flat for<br />

days on end at the height of summer.<br />

That said, there are so many positive<br />

aspects to being a Cronulla surfer. The<br />

positives far outweigh the negatives<br />

when comparing Cronulla to many<br />

other sections of Australia’s surf<br />

drenched coastline.<br />

The close proximity of the Royal<br />

National Park and the South Coast<br />

makes it easy to escape south-ward<br />

during summer’s northeast-induced<br />

flat spells. Besides Sandshoes, Shelley<br />

(if you’re desperate), Island lefts or<br />

The Alley do offer some respite in<br />

small northeast dribble.<br />

During autumn, winter and sometimes<br />

even spring, Cronulla can really turn<br />

it on. There’s such a huge variety of<br />

waves on offer, ranging from average<br />

to sometimes perfect beach breaks.<br />

Cronulla’s beachies from The Alley to<br />

Greenhill’s encompassing The Wall,<br />

Elouera, Midway; John Davey and<br />

Wanda are more consistent than most<br />

of Sydney’s beachbreaks in any swell<br />

from the south.<br />

Bate Bay houses Sydney’s longest<br />

beach at 4.8 km in length with the<br />

wilderness of the Greenhill’s Beach<br />

and dunes in the north. The beach<br />

sweeps in an arc beginning at Pimelwi<br />

Rocks at Boat Harbour, through<br />

Greenhill’s and along the patrolled<br />

areas of Wanda, Elouera, North<br />

Cronulla and The Alley.<br />

The beachbreaks from Elouera North<br />

through to Greenhill’s are generally<br />

at their best in small to mediumsized<br />

southeast to south swells in<br />

the 3 to 6ft range, with offshore<br />

southwest to northwest winds. Hills<br />

can handle a slight northerly wind, but<br />

a strengthening southwester starts<br />

to chop into wave faces north from<br />

Midway. Occasionally Wanda and<br />

Elouera can handle solid swells but<br />

they must be peaky, not straight long<br />

– period groundswell lines, unless<br />

there’s a stray outside finger of sand<br />

in place.<br />

The beachbreaks at The Alley and<br />

The Wall are semi-sheltered from<br />

southerly winds and occasionally get<br />

really good. The rights at The Alley<br />

occasionally line up nicely in a direct<br />

south or southeast swell, while the<br />

consistent inside left is generally best<br />

from mid to high tide in most swell<br />

directions.<br />

Behind the Pools can be good in east<br />

or north-east swells, while South<br />

Cronulla lefts can also provide an<br />

alternative if Cronulla Point is too<br />

crowded on really big days.<br />

You really do realise that Cronulla<br />

is a standout wave zone when you<br />

contemplate the number of seriously<br />

120 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


A:<br />

LOCAL: SURF TOWN<br />

Spots<br />

LEFT: There’s more to Cronulla than the famous reefbreaks. The Alley lining up beautifully on a crisp winter morning. PHOTO<br />

Horvath. TOP: Three times EBC club champion, now Cronulla SUP School and shop proprietor Todd Mingram slotted at Nth<br />

Cronulla. PHOTO Veage. ABOVE: The beachbreaks at Wanda and Elouera are generally at their best on clean 3-4ft days.<br />

Blake Johnston director of Cronulla Surfing Academy blasting on his backhand on one such day. PHOTO Whittaker/oceanart.<br />

hollow reefbreaks in relative<br />

proximity. On the northeastern tip<br />

of Bate Bay lies Voodoo. There’s a<br />

short hollow right reef just north of<br />

Vooey called Suck Rock, that delivers<br />

a quick, intense, barrel best in small<br />

to medium-sized swells from the<br />

southeast with offshore west or north<br />

winds. Occasionally the lefts can turn<br />

on in ENE swells too.<br />

Voodoo is one mean, thick mother of<br />

a wave that can handle a solid 15ft<br />

south swell. It’s a south swell magnet<br />

and, when the beaches are 6ft from<br />

the south, Voodoo is 8 - 10ft and<br />

packing Hawaiian-style punch.<br />

Best in northwest winds, it also<br />

handles the afternoon nor’easter, but<br />

forget it in strong westerly’s. Straight<br />

south or southeast swells at low to mid<br />

tide are best. The take off is a gnarly,<br />

ledgy bowl and the wave actually<br />

grows in size as it heads down the line.<br />

The rest of The Merries Reefs are<br />

still semi-secret believe it or not,<br />

so I won’t really go into too much<br />

detail other than to say there’s an<br />

assortment of lefts and rights varying<br />

in quality. What I will say, though,<br />

is the wider you go, the more swell<br />

they handle. Fifth Left really only gets<br />

ridden a couple of times a year. First<br />

right, second right and second left are<br />

the most frequented breaks. First and<br />

Second reef generally operate best<br />

in small to medium east or southeast<br />

swells with west or northwest winds<br />

on high tide dropping.<br />

At the southern end of the long<br />

expanse of beach breaks lies the<br />

legendary Cronulla Point. The Point<br />

consists of two separate reef sections,<br />

First and Second Reef. First breaks<br />

on small days, providing a hollow fun<br />

initial section upon take off, before<br />

backing off into a cutback pocket ahead<br />

of the final drain section.<br />

Second Reef comes into play when<br />

the swell hits the 4-6ft range. On solid<br />

days The Point is a seriously sucky,<br />

cylindrical wave that bowls rapidly<br />

across the reef with Hawaiian-like<br />

power and class. It can handle 10ft<br />

easily if conditions are right.<br />

Best in a solid southeast or south swell<br />

with west or even southwest to south<br />

winds, The Point is rideable in any<br />

swell direction and is actually more<br />

performance-oriented in an east or<br />

northeast swell. However, in a really<br />

big east or northeast swell, the end<br />

section has a tendency to shut down.<br />

One hundred and fifty metres or so<br />

offshore to the south east of The Point<br />

lies the world famous Shark Island. In<br />

recent years The Island has become a<br />

bodyboarding haven simply because<br />

boogers can take it on in all conditions,<br />

even when the swell has north in it.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

121


“In terms of good<br />

waves for Stand<br />

Up, Bay surf’s good<br />

to learn and ride,<br />

because it’s small and<br />

easy. The point’s not<br />

to bad either for more<br />

experienced riders.<br />

Anywhere where<br />

there’s not too much<br />

of a crowd is good. A<br />

few committed crew<br />

have been getting out<br />

Vooey too!”<br />

Todd Mingram, Cronulla SUP<br />

“After spending a fair bit of time<br />

overseas it’s great to come<br />

back and live in a place where<br />

I know everyone. I love being<br />

a part of the Cronulla surfing<br />

community! It’s so strong here.”<br />

Ryan Bridges, RB Shapes<br />

“The surf is generally rideable<br />

big or small and is ok in most<br />

wind directions. The variety of<br />

waves when it gets good can<br />

be world class.”<br />

Stuart Paterson,<br />

PCC Paterson Contemporary Craft<br />

“Voodoo. Good<br />

hollow consistent<br />

lefts and rights.”<br />

Mark Riley,<br />

Riley Balsa Surfboards<br />

122 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


“Voodoo and a<br />

secret spot we call<br />

Slingshots. The best<br />

day/tube of my life<br />

was out there and it’s<br />

my favourite wave in<br />

the world.”<br />

Blake Johnston, Cronulla<br />

Surfing Academy<br />

Basically, The Island is for experienced<br />

surfers only. It’s best in a straight southeast<br />

swell with offshore winds light from the<br />

west or north-west. Swell direction is critical.<br />

If it’s too south the end ‘Surge’ section<br />

doesn’t barrel, but if it’s too east there is<br />

a shutdown factor. Medium to large, clean<br />

east to southeast swells are generally the<br />

ideal direction and 4 - 8ft is the optimum<br />

size, though it can handle up to 10 feet if<br />

conditions are perfect. Definitely only a mid<br />

to high tide break and only go-for-it, fully<br />

committed surfers should paddle out, as one<br />

wrong move can land you on bone-dry reef.<br />

Southward from Island Rights, Island Lefts<br />

can be worth investigating in a northeast<br />

swell. Then there’s Shelley (a fat, rarely<br />

worthwhile reefbreak), Blackwoods (a fickle<br />

strip of sand on rock), Pipeline (a complete<br />

embarrassment to its namesake) and Windy<br />

Point, which can be an interesting, though<br />

sectioning, barrel when the swell is solid<br />

from the E. Last but not least Sandshoes<br />

is a peaky, sometimes hollow right that<br />

offers some respite in NE windswells. In big<br />

Sth swells there can also be a short, quite<br />

intense left off the back of the pool.<br />

With so many waves in the Cronulla region,<br />

coupled with the fact that it’s the last stop<br />

on the train, it can get very crowded during<br />

summer. But in the winter (surfers’ season),<br />

the local tribes dominate their break and<br />

you will go a long way before you witness<br />

a better standard of surfing on too many<br />

beaches in Aus than what’s on show daily at<br />

The Nulla.<br />

LOCAL: SURF TOWN<br />

Cronulla is home to several world class slabbing reef breaks.<br />

Matty Griggs slotted on a fun day at the Island. PHOTO Craig Stroh<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

123


Caleb always charges hard out<br />

at Cape Fear. PHOTO Craig Stroh<br />

LOCAL: SURF TOWN<br />

Cape Fear<br />

Cape Solander, Pikers Hole, ‘Ours’ or ‘Yours’<br />

technically or geographically speaking lies<br />

just outside of the confines of Bate Bay,<br />

lying less than a kilometre north of Voodoo<br />

on the Kurnell Peninsula. Its reputation as<br />

Sydney’s and one of Australia’s heaviest<br />

waves has seen it surpass even Shark<br />

Island’s notoriority in recent years. There<br />

has been that much insane footage in mags,<br />

films and online in recent years that I won’t<br />

add to the hype here, other than to say it is<br />

an awe inspiring wave and the surfers that<br />

charge it, whether they are from Cronulla,<br />

Maroubra or anywhere else deserve the<br />

utmost respect.<br />

Novelty Waves<br />

It is also comforting to know that whenever<br />

a wild east coast low batters Sydney and<br />

surrounds with cyclonic strength onshore<br />

winds the Port Hacking and Botany Bay<br />

waterways that surround Bate Bay offer<br />

several surfable options on those wild and<br />

woolly days when most can’t imagine venturing<br />

outside let alone seeking out a surf.<br />

Bay Surf inside Port Hacking is one such<br />

option and there are one or two decent reef<br />

and pointbreaks just inside Botany Bay too.<br />

There’s some quality novelty waves<br />

inside Cronulla’s surrounding<br />

waterways when it gets too big for<br />

Bate Bay. PHOTO Horvath<br />

124 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


TRIPLE BULL<br />

SURF SNOW SKATE<br />

Triple Bull Surf Cronulla<br />

23 Kingsway Cronulla NSW, 2230<br />

Phone: 02 9544 0354<br />

Triple Bull Surf Menai<br />

5 Carter Road Menai NSW, 2234<br />

Phone 02 9541 1445<br />

triplebull.com.au<br />

facebook.com/triplebull<br />

@3xBullCronulla<br />

Triple Bull is the core surf store of Cronulla. First opening under the management of pro surfer Richard ‘Dog’ Marsh in the 1990’s, it has always been an<br />

important destination to the local surfing community. Supporting all local clubs and competitions, Triple Bull is a supporter of local talent in and out of<br />

the water. As the Sutherland Shires largest supplier of hardgoods with huge ranges of surfboards, wetsuits and accessories, and also a large range of<br />

snowboard accessories in season, plus skate hardgoods all year, the core boardrider is well serviced. For the dames lasses and everyone else, Triple Bull<br />

has the freshest ranges of swimwear, apparel, eyewear, watches and accessories for the beach, the street, the airport and after 5. Roll in and Rock out!<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

125


Stand Up<br />

Paddle Boards,<br />

Carbon Paddles,<br />

Soft Surfboards<br />

and Accessories.<br />

Demos Available<br />

By Appointment.<br />

Wholesale<br />

and Retail.<br />

The Shire’s 1st<br />

SUP Manufacturer!<br />

Sun Jam Australia.<br />

PH: 0435 754 800<br />

Cronulla NSW 2230<br />

www.sunjampaddleboards.com.au<br />

TOP: Peter Japp and Cronulla Sutherland Stand Up Paddle Club<br />

organises many great SUP events in the area. PHOTO Supplied<br />

ABOVE: There’s so much room to move for SUPers and<br />

surfers in and around Cronulla as this photo proves. You have<br />

Sandshoes reef in the foreground and Port Hacking in the<br />

background. Waves or flat water. Take your pick. PHOTO Horvath<br />

RIGHT: Lou from EastCoast Stand Up Paddle tackles the<br />

waterways. PHOTO: Daniel Hampson/looktosea.com.au<br />

126 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


Waterways<br />

“We are so blessed living near Port Hacking.<br />

I have been to a lot of different bays in Aus,<br />

but let me tell you, none of them are like The<br />

Hacking. It is perfect for any type of boating or<br />

water sport you’re into and so clean.”<br />

Howie – Triple Bull and Cronulla Surf Design<br />

“From a stand up paddlers point of view there<br />

are so many wonderful and diverse waterways<br />

just waiting to be explored including Port<br />

Hacking River, Woronora River, Georges River<br />

and Botany Bay. Don’t forget our legendary ‘Bay<br />

Surf’ on the Port Hacking River which delivers<br />

200 metre plus long rides when the tide and<br />

swell are right.”<br />

Peter Japp – East Coast Stand Up Paddle<br />

“For SUPers I would suggest they get a lesson<br />

in say The Bay first, get confident in flat water<br />

before hitting the surf. I think in terms of safety<br />

it is important that learners heed advice from<br />

accredited coaches on surfing etiquette and<br />

where to ride your SUP etc.<br />

Safety comes first, so don’t put other people in<br />

danger. Newbie’s should definitely not be surfing<br />

on a SUP in crowds or on the main peaks on the<br />

beach unless you’re absolutely killing it.<br />

The beauty of Stand-up is you don’t have to ride<br />

the best waves or surf the main spots to have<br />

fun. Less crowds equals more waves!”<br />

Todd Mingram, Cronulla SUP<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

127


LOCAL: SURF TOWN<br />

“El Sol Mexican<br />

restaurant<br />

cannot be beaten<br />

for a good<br />

night out. The<br />

Scorpion Bar at<br />

El Sol pumps on<br />

a Sunday - it’s<br />

the original and<br />

owned by one<br />

of the local lads.<br />

Deano’s a legend<br />

and he will<br />

keep ya missus<br />

entertained all<br />

night!<br />

Todd Mingram,<br />

Cronulla SUP<br />

More To The<br />

Nulla Than Waves<br />

First mapped in 1796 by explorers<br />

Matthew Flinders and George Bass,<br />

Cronulla remained a hidden gem for<br />

several decades, known only to the<br />

few who built estates there. But in<br />

1885 when the railway arrived, the<br />

Nulla’s beaches quickly became a<br />

weekend attraction. Although hotels,<br />

units and modern apartment blocks<br />

have replaced the old beach shacks,<br />

the region has retained its friendly<br />

Australian personality.<br />

It’s that down-to-earth quality that<br />

has kept people like Deano Hughes<br />

in the area. Dean grew up in the<br />

area, and then took off backpacking<br />

overseas. After spending quite a bit<br />

of time in Mexico and South America<br />

surfing and meeting people Deano<br />

decided to open his own restaurant,<br />

El Sol, so Nulla crew would have<br />

somewhere to eat, have a drink and<br />

hang out when they visited. Deano<br />

says that while it’s important for<br />

visitors to surf, Cronulla not only<br />

offers great waves, but also a chance<br />

to mix with locals.<br />

After your day in the water, you can<br />

either head to Northies for a relaxing<br />

ale, or out to dinner. Cronulla’s dining<br />

options range from the most basic<br />

take away, to Italian to Thai, to<br />

seafood restaurants or fine dining at<br />

Sealevel, Summer Salt, Blue Parrot<br />

or Zimzala. Alternatively you can just<br />

invest in some freshly made fish and<br />

chips and take them down to South<br />

Cronulla beach or park with you.<br />

You can head out for a night of live<br />

music at The Brass Monkey or crash<br />

early and Catch the Cronulla to<br />

Bundeena Ferry, which runs every<br />

hour, and is the oldest commuter ferry<br />

operating to a timetable in Australia,<br />

and offers a ride on sparkling waters.<br />

There’s also a three hour Port Hacking<br />

Scenic River Cruise, which retraces<br />

the historic 1796 journey of Bass and<br />

Flinders. On the Cronulla side of the<br />

river you can admire the waterfront<br />

mansions; on the other, there’s the<br />

Royal National Park itself.<br />

Cronulla Beach Peninsula harbours<br />

a number of rock pools south of The<br />

Alley at North Cronulla, and a bunch<br />

more south of South Cronulla Beach.<br />

There’s also The Promenade with<br />

its scenic coastal walk to Bass and<br />

Flinders, with views towards Port<br />

Hacking and Bundeena.<br />

Cronulla Mall has lots of eateries<br />

including al fresco restaurants, great<br />

coffee at Grind or Kafenio and varied<br />

night life and a Multiplex cinema.<br />

Massive Miranda Fair shopping<br />

centre is less than 10 mins away by<br />

car or train.<br />

There’s some great coastal parks and<br />

picnic facilities, swings for the kids<br />

at Wanda, Elouera, Nth Cronulla, Sth<br />

Cronulla, Shelley and Sandshoes.<br />

Nearby Gunnamatta Park and Beach<br />

also offers a shark netted pool, great<br />

flat water Sup facilities and fishing.<br />

In Autumn Cronulla hosts a great Food<br />

and Wine Festival, Jazz and Shiraz<br />

and in spring there is the annual<br />

Spring Festival. Nearby Hazelhurst<br />

gallery is the pick for art lovers and<br />

Caringbah markets every fourth<br />

Sunday is great for a bargain.<br />

Live Music<br />

Cronulla surfers have long been<br />

renowned as live music lovers. Huge<br />

contingents from the Nulla can<br />

regularly be seen at festivals or inner<br />

city music venues rocking out. Well<br />

known local surfers like Gary Hughes<br />

fronted bands like Charm School and<br />

the Silent Types. Richard Herbert<br />

formed the always entertaining Dick<br />

Bent and The Bentnicks, Patch and<br />

Rick punked out in Playground Of<br />

Hate and Patto’s Yard Animals were a<br />

Stooges inspired garage rock act.<br />

128 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


MAIN: El Sol - Deano and his chilled staff along with the food<br />

and atmosphere make El Sol the premier casual bar and eatery<br />

in the Nulla. ABOVE: Stuart Paterson of PCC Surfboards has<br />

always been a dedicated muso. PHOTO: Veage<br />

“I started playing guitar before I<br />

started surfing, I was about 12,”<br />

Says Patto. “My first band was Yard<br />

Animals and later I was in another<br />

called Forge. We did plenty of gigs<br />

and had a great time along the<br />

way. In my twenties I worked as<br />

the in house audio guy at the Royal<br />

Hotel at Sutherland. I saw so many<br />

bands... All that music was a heavy<br />

influence on my life. Looking back<br />

it was a magic time around Sydney<br />

for the live scene, a scene that is<br />

sadly long gone.”<br />

Other crews like Mick Hickey, JT,<br />

Rojey and Adam Scott have been in<br />

a bunch of cool bands too.<br />

Local live music venues like<br />

Caringbah Inn regularly hosted<br />

epic touring acts in the 80s and<br />

90s like The Damned, Citizen Fish<br />

(ex Subhuman’s), Guttermouth<br />

and Agent Orange not to mention<br />

some of Australia’s finest like<br />

Midnight Oil, Inxs, The Celibate<br />

Rifles, The Sunnyboys, The New<br />

Christ’s, The Melting Skyscrapers,<br />

The Trilobites and The Psychotic<br />

Turnbuckles. Sylvania played host<br />

to Iggy, The old Cronulla Workers<br />

Club Dead Kennedy’s gig in 83<br />

is legendary and Carmen’s once<br />

hosted the Anti Nowhere League.<br />

The Sutho Royal flew the flag for<br />

Australian independents like The<br />

Lime Spiders, The Hard Ons, The<br />

Hellmen, Mass Appeal and The<br />

Happy Hate Me Nots.<br />

More recently The Caringbah<br />

Bizzo’s has been the venue to see<br />

bands like Viscous Circle, Radio<br />

Birdman and The US Bombs.<br />

Extra special thanks to John Veage,<br />

Brad Whittaker, Greg McCarthy, Chris<br />

Stroh, Craig Stroh and Luke Sullivan<br />

for their valued contributions.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

129


130 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


Media<br />

There has always been strong<br />

media representation in Cronulla<br />

too. Jack Eden published<br />

Surfabout mag in the 60s, Steve<br />

Core established Surf in the 70s,<br />

Graham ‘Sid’ Cassidy edited Waves<br />

magazine in the late 70s and early<br />

80s before becoming sports editor<br />

at The SMH and later ASP director<br />

in the 80s. Peter Simons, then Paul<br />

Sargeant were both photo editors<br />

at Tracks in its 80s heyday, my<br />

own Underground Surf magazine<br />

went alright in the 90s and local<br />

photographers like Andrew<br />

“Shorty” Buckley, Johnny Frank,<br />

John Veage, Steve Baccon, Chris<br />

and Craig Stroh, Greg McCarthy,<br />

Gary Birdsall and Matt Johnson<br />

are highly sought-after surf<br />

photographers on the international<br />

stage.<br />

More recently the two major<br />

online surf forecasting websites<br />

have had Cronulla based editors -<br />

Coastalwatch myself and Swellnet<br />

Stu Nettle. Matty Griggs has<br />

written several best selling books<br />

and a host of local websites have<br />

been attracting plenty of attention<br />

in the new media landscape.<br />

For a sample of the best locally<br />

produced new media sites check<br />

out Greg McCarthy’s<br />

ww.oceanart.com.au or www.<br />

surfimages.com.au websites.<br />

Chris and Craig Stroh’s informative<br />

Cronulla Surf Museum site is a<br />

must see at cronullasurfmuseum.<br />

com.au and Luke Sullivan’s Killvan.<br />

com is an open window into the<br />

travel experiences of Jay Killvan.<br />

Matt Johnsons surf photography<br />

email called the sea life is free<br />

and well worth subscribing to. Go<br />

to www.thesealife.com.au and<br />

you’ll receive a brief surf report and<br />

photos from that day of the sunrise,<br />

the waves and those sliding them.<br />

Outside of shapers and media<br />

personnel, Dennis Kitchener at<br />

Saltwater boardshorts back in the<br />

late 70s, Local kneelo Tony Wales<br />

at Matt and Coe in the 80s, Eugene<br />

King and Shane Moran at SMP in<br />

the 90s, Mark Aprilovic at Cronulla<br />

Surf Design forever, Dog and more<br />

recently Howie at Triple Bull, Greg<br />

Willet and Benny Johno at Willett<br />

Johnston Partners, Schmoo and<br />

Kurt at CSP, Greg, Ben and John at<br />

Vestal, Todd Liddy at SDS, Deano<br />

at El Sol, and Matty White at The<br />

Realm and Carve Eyewear have<br />

all been massive Cronulla Surfing<br />

community supporters.<br />

Finally a discussion about Cronulla<br />

surf media is not complete without<br />

mentioning the 1981 Australian film<br />

Puberty Blues directed by Bruce<br />

Beresford. The film is based on<br />

the 1979 novel Puberty Blues, by<br />

Gabrielle Carey and Kathy Lette.<br />

It is kind of a proto-feminist teen<br />

novel about two 13-year-old girls<br />

from the Sutherland Shire. The girls<br />

attempt to integrate themselves<br />

into the then very masculine<br />

domain of the “Greenhill’s gang” of<br />

surfers in an attempt to meet guys<br />

and become more popular.<br />

It’s a pretty honest assessment of<br />

male/female relationships in that<br />

era and of course every view brings<br />

back memories of the once grand<br />

sand dunes at Hills, The Workers<br />

Club, Joes, old Northies and the<br />

main drag before Cronulla Street<br />

became a pedestrian mall. For<br />

some lengthy you tube preview<br />

clips go to www.youtube.com/<br />

watch?v=5xZn-9svNcA or better<br />

still get it out on DVD.<br />

ABOVE: Craig Stroh on the other end of<br />

the lens. His second movie, “2” should<br />

be out late this year. Craig’s amassed<br />

hundreds of hours worth of mental footage<br />

since Twenty Two Thirty. “2” will be<br />

amazing because Craig is a perfectionist.<br />

You know one average wave won’t make<br />

the final edit.<br />

LEFT: The ever bright Kathy Lette - author<br />

of Puberty Blues. PHOTO courtesy<br />

Sutherland Shire Council<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

131


LOCAL: SURF TOWN<br />

“At the end of the day I<br />

love Cronulla so much. We<br />

want to raise our kids and<br />

live here forever.<br />

My family have pretty solid<br />

roots in the hood. I dig the<br />

people that live around<br />

the area. Everyone’s<br />

super cool and always<br />

up to say g’day and have<br />

a chat. Everyone always<br />

helps everyone one and<br />

supports each other in<br />

the area.”<br />

Howie, Triple Bull and Cronulla<br />

Surf Design Proprietor<br />

MAIN: Nigel “Howie” Howell was a leading wakeboarder before he bought Triple Bull and Cronulla Surf Design. Howie<br />

knows Bate Bay and every nook and cranny inside Port Hacking. He may be busy, but he still knows how to put it on rail.<br />

RIGHT: Greg Willett with two of his clients - Cronulla icons Occy and Dog. PHOTO: JOHN VEAGE.<br />

BOTTOM: Ben Johnston can bury a rail just like his four brothers and old man could too. PHOTO JOHN VEAGE.<br />

ACROSS: Graham King of King Surfboards and Foam<br />

The Surfing Industry<br />

Cronulla boardriders president and local<br />

media identity Johnny Veage said, “The<br />

surfing industry in Cronulla really boomed<br />

in the 70s. Raw materials were cheap and<br />

more accessible, there was little industry<br />

regulation and backyard business was<br />

booming. The Colligan’s Southern Comfort<br />

factory put a rocket up everyone and<br />

pushed boundaries beyond safe.<br />

Veagey talks of a time in the late 70s when<br />

he worked at Gordon and Smith (Taren<br />

Point) when Ross Longbottom (Dylan’s dad)<br />

could glass 100 boards a week no problem<br />

and their shaping and team roster was<br />

legendary. MP even had a stint there.<br />

Jim Lucas’s Force 9 and Steve Griffith’s<br />

Emerald were dominant in the 80s and<br />

Paul Armstrong’s Express label was very<br />

popular too. Stuart Darcy’s Pottz Surfboards<br />

and later Vudu were popular in the 90s and<br />

then local guys like Wayne Roach, Stuart<br />

Patterson, Craig Naylor, Rod Katis, Dennis<br />

Wright, Matt Hurworth and Ryan Bridge<br />

started their own labels. Jackson has been<br />

ever present and iconic throughout.<br />

In fact, the Jackson Surfboards name<br />

is synonymous with Cronullla, and why<br />

not? They are a part of the very fabric of<br />

the place. Today Jim Parkinson and Dave<br />

Mattison have carried on from Brian ‘Jacko’<br />

Jackson and continued the meticulous<br />

craftsmanship for which Jackson<br />

Surfboards have become renowned.<br />

But there are a number of other people,<br />

prominent within the local surf community,<br />

that are perhaps not known to those<br />

outside of Cronulla.<br />

Howie aka Nigel Howell has lived in the<br />

Shire his whole life. He owns the two most<br />

notable surf shops in town. Triple Bull and<br />

Surf Design are massive well-established<br />

businesses and are without doubt the two<br />

biggest and most hardwear orientated surf<br />

shops in the region. Both have their own<br />

loyal local following servicing the various<br />

board riding tribes both in and outside of<br />

Cronulla.<br />

Of the dozen or so surf shops in the area,<br />

Howie’s services the vast board riding<br />

community best. He sponsors all the board<br />

riders clubs and helps bring events here.<br />

Indeed The Nulla surfing community<br />

has been fortunate to have a small but<br />

supportive bunch of local businesses that<br />

132 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


kick in and help with prizes,<br />

sponsorship and fundraising<br />

whenever needed. However<br />

when you think of such things<br />

you immediately think of<br />

shapers, accessories, and<br />

clothing. Accountants just<br />

don’t fit the stereotype. Greg<br />

Willett and Ben Johnston<br />

however aren’t your<br />

stereotypical suit and spec<br />

wearing accountants. Greg<br />

and Ben are lifelong surfers<br />

deeply embedded in the local<br />

surfing fraternity and their<br />

business is a burgeoning<br />

octopus expanding into all<br />

things surf culture.<br />

Greg has always looked after<br />

a number of famous names<br />

in the surfing industry, guys<br />

like Occy (Mark Occhilupo),<br />

Richard Marsh and Sarge<br />

(surf journalist Paul Sargeant)<br />

along with many other clients<br />

in the surf industry. Ben on<br />

the other hand looks after<br />

the new breed of pro surfers<br />

such Craig Anderson, Jack<br />

Freestone and Laura Enever<br />

and successful filmmaker Kai<br />

Neville. Not only that, Willett<br />

Johnston recently started<br />

Surkyl Media looking after the<br />

likes of Owen, Tyler and Mikey<br />

Wright and have even become<br />

the Australasian licensee for<br />

Vestal Watches.<br />

In terms of shaping, Cronulla boasts several generations of master<br />

craftsman, all with diverse backgrounds and different introductions to<br />

the surf industry. We talk with a few of those who perhaps don’t get<br />

the airplay they richly deserve. After all, we are always up for talking to<br />

different people and not just the usual suspects.<br />

The Stalwart:<br />

All Hail the King<br />

A man who has been around<br />

since the beginning is Graham<br />

King of King Surfboards.<br />

“I’m not much of a hero around the<br />

place. I just put head down, arse up<br />

and pour blanks most of the time.”<br />

As humble as they come, Graham<br />

doesn’t make a big deal about what<br />

he does, even though, truth be told,<br />

he has pretty much been an integral<br />

part of the surfboard industry in<br />

Cronulla since the early days.<br />

A little while after Jackson<br />

Surfboards began in 1957, Graham<br />

started making boards in the<br />

Marrackville area before moving his<br />

business to Kirrawee in the Cronulla-<br />

Sutherland Shire in 1962. It was there<br />

he first got in contact with Harold<br />

Walker Foam in Los Angeles.<br />

“Harold was the first ever guy<br />

to poor a blank. Anyhow we<br />

imported his blanks for quite a few<br />

years and then we started making<br />

our own foam and it went from<br />

there. We now supply most of the<br />

blanks in the area right down the<br />

entire South Coast. 80% of the<br />

manufacturers use my foam.”<br />

Through the years Graham’s<br />

knowledge has been called upon<br />

by many and in 2006, following<br />

the collapse of Clark Foam in the<br />

States, a number of US shapers<br />

sought his assistance. What<br />

resulted was Graham and Rod<br />

MacDonald, his business partner<br />

in the venture, set up Kingmac,<br />

a massive factory in Tijuana,<br />

Mexico. They found themselves<br />

working day and night pouring<br />

some 300 moulds a day.<br />

All the while his daughter Sharron<br />

and the team kept things ticking<br />

over at his factory in Kirrawee.<br />

Sharron is still involved in the<br />

business today and along with<br />

Brad Turner, who now heads up<br />

the operation, and Aaron, Kyle and<br />

Robbie keeps King Surfboards and<br />

Foam still knocking out some 250<br />

blanks a week along with a range<br />

of their own brand of surfboards<br />

and a busy glass contracting and<br />

CNC machine cutting service.<br />

It has certainly been quite a<br />

journey for the boy from Redfern<br />

who worked as an apprentice<br />

fitter and turner at the local<br />

power station before going to<br />

uni to undertake a mechanical<br />

engineering degree and immersing<br />

himself in the surfboard industry<br />

from the age of 20.<br />

graphic design<br />

web development<br />

brand strategy<br />

Did you need<br />

a good design for<br />

<strong>Smorgasboarder</strong>?<br />

“There are all a bunch<br />

of good guys who work<br />

really hard. Everyone<br />

seems to get on<br />

reasonably well.”<br />

Graham King of<br />

King Surfboards on the local<br />

surf industry<br />

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COG360_advert_Smorgas_57wx241h_V1.indd 1<br />

133<br />

2/01/12 12:50 PM


The Sculptor<br />

Mind, body and spiritual expression<br />

Stuart Paterson<br />

134 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

Stuart Paterson grew up in Engadine<br />

in the sixties and early seventies<br />

back when Engadine was almost<br />

rural. He hung out at the river and<br />

made it down the beach after school<br />

with an older mate who had an<br />

ancient Hillman wagon. Garie was<br />

Patto’s place in his formative years of<br />

surfing. He loved Garie and still does.<br />

There came a time after Patto had<br />

made a lot of boards, somewhere<br />

between one and two thousand, that<br />

he felt like he needed to access a<br />

bigger pool of surfers to work with,<br />

so he moved to Cronulla and started<br />

surfing around The Nulla and shaping<br />

for some of the top riders.<br />

“Being hooked on surfing and coming<br />

to a school leaving age I thought<br />

being a surfboard artist would be<br />

my dream job. My first idea was to<br />

be the guy who painted the art on<br />

surfboards, that is what I ended up<br />

doing when I was sixteen going on<br />

seventeen.<br />

“Becoming a shaper was about trying<br />

to build my own boards firstly. I was<br />

working at G&S at the time, all the<br />

equipment for building boards was<br />

available and some timely advice<br />

from my old departed friend Richard<br />

Herbert and good mate Warren Hardie<br />

helped me on my way. The boards<br />

worked from the start and off I went<br />

into design and shaping, learning to<br />

do it over and over. The motivation<br />

was not something I had considered, it<br />

just happened.”<br />

Today Patto is just as hands on and<br />

just as passionate about the creative<br />

process of crafting a board.<br />

“I still paint every board; check the<br />

fin set up on every board. I work<br />

very closely with Roger and Shane<br />

in the sanding and finishing. I am<br />

not outwardly trying to set myself<br />

apart from other makers. What I am<br />

passionate about is design and every<br />

aspect of what it takes to make a good<br />

surfboard.”<br />

TOP: Patto self portrait cruising with<br />

Macca’s camera board there to capture<br />

the moment, back before GoPros were<br />

even thought of.<br />

BOTTOM: Patto hard at work in his<br />

shaping bay. PHOTO Veage<br />

Patto shares the same<br />

enthusiasm for utilising the latest<br />

construction methods.<br />

“The current applications of<br />

materials are varied. At the highest<br />

level of surfing most professionals<br />

use the basic modern formula,<br />

which is a light weight polyurethane<br />

blank laminated with one ply four<br />

ounce glass on each side. There<br />

may be a patch of extra glass for<br />

the feet positions but that is about<br />

it. Lightweight and not strong at all.<br />

These pro level boards have the best<br />

flex and weight that has been tried<br />

and tested since surfing began. The<br />

catch is that if you want to use this<br />

lightweight formula it only takes<br />

a failed floater or an unmake-able<br />

tube ride to snap your board into two<br />

pieces. We can build strong boards<br />

which can last for years but will<br />

ride heavy with no lively flex like the<br />

lighter builds.<br />

“Today there is another way to go<br />

that may become more popular in<br />

time, hand shaped polystyrene blanks<br />

that are glassed and finished entirely<br />

in epoxy resin.<br />

This process makes for a lighter and<br />

therefore a more sensitive core that<br />

can be glassed to last without losing<br />

performance. In some ways, like in<br />

the case of a bigger board with more<br />

volume, the performance is actually<br />

increased because of the huge saving<br />

in the weight of the lighter foam as<br />

opposed to traditional polyurethane.<br />

We have developed a method of<br />

glassing and finishing these styro<br />

epoxy models that are tough, vibrant,<br />

performers. I have also just started<br />

using some new pigment colouring<br />

methods that are very eye catching.”<br />

And as for a specialty board he<br />

is presently shaping, Patto has a<br />

different take on an old classic, the<br />

increasingly popular mini-Simmons.<br />

“In the last three or four years I<br />

have experimented with short wide<br />

and flat boards.<br />

Three summers ago I started making<br />

and riding my own version of the<br />

mini Simmons. I rode these for about<br />

six months exclusively. I began to<br />

experiment on a hybrid of what I<br />

know worked in current, modern<br />

shapes and what I thought worked<br />

from the Simmons. The combination<br />

evolved into something that one<br />

of my good friends nicknamed the<br />

‘Stuey Diver.’ Ultimately people<br />

started coming in and asking if I<br />

could make one of these wide square<br />

tails for them. A large percentage of<br />

people kept coming back with very<br />

good feedback about how the board<br />

had changed their surfing - all very<br />

positive stuff.”


LOCAL: SURF TOWN<br />

Ryan Bridges is a friendly, intelligent<br />

shaper who puts a lot back into the<br />

community getting out and about with<br />

his unique Boardjam events.<br />

The Jammer<br />

It’s personal<br />

Ryan Bridges was born in New York to<br />

English parents. He moved to Australia<br />

in the mid-80s when he was five and<br />

grew up surfing with his older brother<br />

around Cronulla. Ryan was hanging<br />

out at Vudu Surfboards as a teenager<br />

when a school project finally gave<br />

him a reason to hit up D’Arcy (Stuart)<br />

for shaping lessons. After sitting<br />

and watching Darce shape for a few<br />

months he was hooked. Eventually<br />

Darce let Bridgey loose with the tools<br />

just before he moved his family to QLD.<br />

When Bridgey left school he jumped<br />

the fence into Force 9 where he<br />

continued to learn the craft from ‘Patto’<br />

(Stuart Paterson) and Jim (Lucas).<br />

When Patto moved on to start his own<br />

label (PCC), Bridgey shared the shaping<br />

duties at The Force with Dean Frazer<br />

for a few years before upping stumps<br />

and spending a few years living in<br />

London and travelling around Europe. In<br />

20<strong>09</strong> he got the shaping bug back and<br />

moved back to the Shire and set up RB<br />

Shapes. These days Bridgey like Patto,<br />

is one of the most in demand shapers<br />

in the Nulla.<br />

We asked Ryan what prompted him to<br />

get into shaping in the first place.<br />

“I just wanted to learn how boards<br />

worked initially. I guess so I could be a<br />

better surfer. When I started building<br />

boards it was just for my mates so<br />

I was really just motivated to make<br />

boards that worked well for them. I had<br />

a strong belief from very early on that<br />

no one knew my mates or my surfing<br />

better than I did so I figured I should<br />

be able to make the best boards for<br />

us. I guess that was the foundation for<br />

the way I approach my job now. I take<br />

it very personally that it’s up to me to<br />

create the best boards for individuals,<br />

and that means getting to know them,<br />

surfing with them and forging good<br />

working and personal relationships,<br />

and that’s the best part of my job.”<br />

In a day where a greater focus is on<br />

mass production and producing things<br />

at a price point, Ryan has focused<br />

his energies on the other end of the<br />

spectrum, spending a lot of time with<br />

his customers and understanding<br />

what they are specifically after in a<br />

surfboard.<br />

“Right now I guess it’s the fact that I’m<br />

keen to get my hands dirty! I want to<br />

be really involved with the local surfing<br />

community, figure out what people<br />

want to ride instead of assuming, or<br />

worse, telling them! I see my job as a<br />

custom surfboard maker. That means<br />

half my job is physically being a shaper,<br />

and the other half is engaging my<br />

customers! Finding out what they want<br />

Ryan Bridges<br />

and giving them the best experience<br />

I can.<br />

“In an age where an increasing<br />

percentage of boards are being mass<br />

produced I think there’s never been a<br />

more important time to focus on that<br />

service. We’re heavily involved with the<br />

local clubs, particularly Elouera Board<br />

Riders and we sponsor a lot of the big<br />

contests that come to Cronulla. Not<br />

just for the publicity, but on one hand<br />

to encourage these comps to come<br />

here which helps our region and our<br />

local surfers, and on the other just to<br />

be amongst it, to learn as much as I can<br />

about how everything works and where<br />

I fit in.”<br />

And to that end Ryan has even taken<br />

things a step further.<br />

“We came up with a concept called<br />

BOARDJAM to better connect with<br />

the surfing community. We take a<br />

stack of our demo boards down to the<br />

beach, usually with some of our team<br />

riders and just hang out. People can<br />

have a look or have a surf or a chat or<br />

whatever.<br />

“I find there is a certain type of<br />

conversation you can have with<br />

someone when they come into the shop<br />

for a chat and another type you can<br />

have with someone when you’re down<br />

the beach or out in the water together.<br />

What we’re trying to do is create an<br />

atmosphere that makes people want<br />

to learn about different board styles<br />

and shapes. Somewhere they can ask<br />

us anything about surfboard design<br />

and not just have to take our word for<br />

it. They can grab a board and go ride<br />

it and see for themselves then come<br />

back and continue that conversation -<br />

hopefully learning enough for them to<br />

realise or reaffirm that the knowledge a<br />

shaper has is worth tapping into.<br />

As for the shapes he is largely focused<br />

on at present, there is a fishy flavour<br />

but with a slightly different taste.<br />

“We’ve always made a lot of fishes,<br />

they suit our waves pretty well I think<br />

and they’re just fun! Both to surf and to<br />

shape! They can all be a little different<br />

and that keeps it interesting. Lately<br />

however there’s been a bit of a shift<br />

away from fishes. People want stubby<br />

shortboards to suit the waves where<br />

they would normally be reaching for<br />

their fish. Our ‘Frother’ model has been<br />

our best seller this past year, actually<br />

by miles! The goal is to incorporate<br />

some of those characteristics that<br />

make a fish easy and fun to surf into a<br />

shortboard package so you can surf to<br />

the highest possible standard in small<br />

waves!”<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

135


LOCAL: SURF TOWN<br />

The Eco Warrior<br />

Wooden it be nice Mini-interview by DAVE SWAN<br />

Mark Riley<br />

Environmental champion and champion bloke,<br />

Mark Riley, is another shaper who calls The Shire<br />

home. Many may know his name by way of his<br />

stunning balsa surfboards but not much about the<br />

man himself.<br />

Well for starters, he is a bloody funny man who<br />

likes a beer and has a real passion for board<br />

building. After reading this little story, you may<br />

know a little more about the life of Riley.<br />

Even though he supports the Blues (NSW’s record<br />

breaking State of Origin rugby league side - they<br />

have now lost six series in a row to the mighty<br />

Qld Maroons... Ouch!) Mark was in fact born in<br />

Melbourne. His family moved to Gymea in the<br />

Southerland Shire when he was ten years of age and<br />

Mark developed a taste for surfing there and then.<br />

Mark also developed a keen interest in rugby<br />

league and played throughout his junior years for<br />

Cronulla. In his senior years he played halfback<br />

for the Illawarra Steelers and then the Gold Coast<br />

Seagulls in the NSWRL following in the footsteps<br />

of his father Johnny Riley who played alongside<br />

rugby league immortals Reg Gasnier and Johnny<br />

Raper for the St George Dragons.<br />

Mark’s father was on the famous 1959 Kangaroo<br />

Tour of the UK.<br />

After badly breaking his leg for the third time in 1990<br />

Mark turned his focus to carpentry. He finished his<br />

apprenticeship and started his own business building<br />

and renovating houses before he took off for a trip<br />

travelling from Mexico down to South America. Aside<br />

from a holiday, he was in search of a new business idea.<br />

Having broken both the surfboards he brought along<br />

for the trip, an idea dawned on him at his final stop<br />

in Ecuador. Mark came across some balsa wood and<br />

decided to take some sticks back to Australia and<br />

made some boards. In 1996 he returned to Ecuador and<br />

brought back a container.<br />

Riley Balsa Surfboards was born and at first Mark<br />

concentrated on making beautiful, high quality retro<br />

style 50s and 60s Malibus. He recognised how well<br />

they surfed even though they were quite heavy. Pretty<br />

soon he started experimenting with polyurethane and<br />

regular polystyrene with a balsa skin.<br />

Three years later, Mark was convinced he had found an<br />

alternative to polyurethane surfboards. Recycled EPS<br />

foam in combination with a 2-3mm balsa ‘skin’ made<br />

the boards super light but also very strong with great<br />

flex properties. The boards had a nice feel to them and<br />

looked bloody beautiful.<br />

“I also realised that polyurethane, when blown, is bad<br />

for the environment so I thought if I am going to make<br />

a lighter board, it has to be eco-friendly to be in line<br />

with the balsa (balsa is a very fast growing tree and<br />

is almost like a weed in South America.) I found this<br />

eco-friendly recycled polystyrene. What it is made from<br />

is old TV, fridge and washing machine packing boxes.<br />

The Polystyrene is regranulated and steamed together<br />

to form a new 3m block that we cut our rocker template<br />

from. All the waste from the block is then recycled as<br />

well. I think my boards are one of the most eco-friendly<br />

boards around.”<br />

Today Mark still shapes his classic solid balsa malibus<br />

but also a number of high performance lightweight<br />

shortboards, retro fishes, minimals and longboards<br />

utilsing the recycled EPS core and balsa skin<br />

construction. He is particularly proud of the fact the<br />

boards are 100% Australian made and guarantees they<br />

will outlast and outperform the imported ‘pop outs’.<br />

“We use tried and tested materials to ensure a quality<br />

creation. I import my own quality balsa from South<br />

America and regularly return to ensure the quality is of<br />

the highest standard. I have been importing this balsa<br />

for over 15 years now.”<br />

Mark supplies a number of other shapers with high-end<br />

quality balsa as well and has even started growing his<br />

own balsa in Far North Queensland.<br />

Riley Balsa makes stunning tide clocks and has a range<br />

of supplies for the home board builder from complete<br />

kits and instructional DVDs through to raw balsa, balsa<br />

sheets, solid balsa and recycled EPS core/ balsa skin<br />

blanks and preshaped blanks.<br />

All in all, Mark has pretty much everything to do with<br />

balsa and like we said, he is a great bloke to boot. We<br />

can never pass through Cronulla without stopping by<br />

to say g’day and neither should you, but make sure you<br />

tee up a time to see him first though, so he can get<br />

some beers on ice.<br />

136 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


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jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

137


138 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


BOARDS • SKATE • TESTS • REVIEWS • FASHION<br />

CLASSIC IN NAME & NATURE<br />

WHEN PETER WHITE OF CLASSIC MALIBU FAME<br />

FIRST STARTED SHAPING SURFBOARDS HE HAD<br />

ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA WHAT HE WAS DOING.<br />

It was complete trial and error. As a matter of fact, the<br />

first board he shaped was a lump of polystyrene he had<br />

found washed up on the foreshore at Seaford Beach<br />

that he promptly glassed with polyester resin only to<br />

watch it completely disappear before his very eyes.<br />

(For the uninitiated, polyester resin reacts with<br />

polystyrene causing it to disintegrate.)<br />

Although predominantly self-taught, Peter thankfully<br />

met Phil Grace a little later on. He still humbly credits<br />

Phil for developing his skills into the revered master<br />

craftsman he is today.<br />

The thing is, if there is someone to guide you when<br />

you are starting out, the learning curve is a hell of a lot<br />

quicker. We asked Peter a few questions about what it<br />

was like finding his way around the factory.<br />

HOW DID YOU EVEN KNOW WHERE TO START?<br />

After my first disaster, my dad bought me a surfboard<br />

kit from a company called Molford Plastics on my 13th<br />

birthday. He said, ‘There you go. Have some fun.’ I<br />

didn’t know laminating resin from filler resin. It was a<br />

baptism of fire. For many years I floundered in the dark<br />

but I did have a lot of fun.<br />

HOW OLD WERE YOU WHEN YOU FIRST SHAPED<br />

A BOARD?<br />

Well I sort of shaped the polystyrene board when I was<br />

12. Then from 13 onwards I just started making a board a<br />

week for friends until they became some form of quality<br />

and it just went from there. The biggest boost I ever got<br />

was working with Phil Grace.<br />

WHAT WERE SOME OF THE IMPORTANT<br />

LESSONS YOU LEARNT FROM PHIL?<br />

Just absolute perfection and quality. Making sure, as<br />

the old story goes, ‘you measure twice, cut once’. Phil<br />

was innovative at the time and for him to move just a<br />

couple of hundred metres up the road from me was like<br />

absolute Nirvana. I just helped him out doing anything<br />

like sweeping floors to laying out cloths. I got to learn<br />

so much from resin mixes to how to run a tidy ship. His<br />

setups were always so immaculately clean. To this<br />

day, his whole approach was probably the best I have<br />

ever come across.<br />

WHAT ARE SKILLS OR PERSONAL TRAITS<br />

ESSENTIAL TO BECOMING A GOOD SHAPER?<br />

I look at a lot of the guys in the industry like Wayne<br />

Dean who came from a building background, they have<br />

an accurate eye for all things. From a hand shaping<br />

point of view, you need that accuracy and attention<br />

to detail. With the advent of the shaping machinery,<br />

I mean anyone can do it. To hand shape it from a raw<br />

blank, that’s another matter. Blanks aren’t perfect,<br />

“Perserverance,<br />

commitment, good listening<br />

skills and a good mentor go<br />

a long way to develop your<br />

skills.”<br />

MEET PETER WHITE<br />

WORDS: DAVE SWAN<br />

sometimes you have to shape the blank before you<br />

shape the surfboard. You have to really get to know<br />

board volumes, rail shapes, bottom shapes. Then there<br />

are a lot of basic formulas in a design sense that we<br />

continually play with. And with a hand made product<br />

there are so many other variables to consider from air<br />

moisture content that affects production to different<br />

catalyst ratios on materials.<br />

Perserverance, commitment, good listening skills and a<br />

good mentor go a long way to develop your skills.<br />

HOW DO YOU DEVELOP THAT TALENT?<br />

I suppose I am a fairly hard taskmaster when it comes<br />

to that. You just have to stand over and teach them.<br />

You can’t expect people to do it from nothing. A little<br />

bit of latitude here and there, allow the odd mistake<br />

and explain what the mistake is and how to avoid it<br />

next time.<br />

We teach different glassing techniques – free lap,<br />

cut lap, a zipper cut. There are so many different<br />

techniques that people can learn from shaping to<br />

glassing and spraying. Spraying is another dimension<br />

in itself. Then there is polishing.<br />

The other thing they have to learn is the sequence of<br />

how to do things. Some guys take ages to glass a<br />

board. But if you set it up properly you can glass three<br />

boards in the time you can do one board. We teach<br />

time management skills.<br />

ARE ARTISAN SKILLS THE KEY TO COMBATING<br />

CHEAP CHINESE IMPORTED SURFBOARDS?<br />

Yes definitely. The type of work we do in Australia is to<br />

my knowledge, not coming out of Asia at the moment.<br />

Australian shapers make some of the best boards in<br />

the world.<br />

Chinese factories just do a basic style of glassing. I<br />

don’t see any resin tints or resin art. What we do is<br />

a high end product that is very time consuming. The<br />

Asian style of thing is focused on volume – get it in,<br />

get it out.<br />

We can’t combat or avoid the imports. We export<br />

so why shouldn’t they import but it is quality<br />

craftsmanship that will differentiate us from the mass<br />

produced stuff.<br />

PETER IS CREDITED WITH DEVELOPING<br />

THE SKILLS OF A NUMBER OF TODAY’S<br />

MANUFACTURERS AROUND THE WORLD.<br />

“I’d like to think that everyone that’s spent time<br />

working with me over the 45 years I’ve been involved<br />

in the industry, has gained some knowledge to the<br />

betterment of surf boards.<br />

“In 2010, we had Dick Brewer shaping with us. You<br />

would think he’d know everything about shaping. After<br />

a couple of weeks we had both learned something<br />

new about shaping techniques from each other. There’s<br />

always time to understand and learn!”<br />

THE SHAPER’S<br />

APPRENTICE<br />

DO YOU HAVE<br />

WHAT IT TAKES TO BE A<br />

SURFBOARD<br />

DESIGNER?<br />

CLASSIC MALIBU and smorgasboarder<br />

present a unique opportunity to step into<br />

the world of surfboard manufacturing.<br />

IF YOU HAVE GREAT IDEAS<br />

ABOUT SURFBOARD DESIGN WE<br />

WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU!<br />

CLASSIC MALIBU in Noosa is always<br />

on the lookout for great talent to continue<br />

producing surfboards of the highest quality<br />

and innovative design. Many of today’s<br />

top shapers have done their time in their<br />

workshop and you could be next.<br />

If you fancy yourself as an upcoming talent,<br />

send us sketches of your best idea, with up<br />

to 200 words telling us what it’s all about,<br />

along with your name and contact details. If<br />

yours is the favourite idea - as decided by a<br />

panel of judges with over 45 years of shaping<br />

experience between them - you will be be in<br />

line for the experience of a lifetime:<br />

Be involved in the manufacture of your<br />

own board design, start to finish, under the<br />

guidance of master shaper Peter White!<br />

Perfect your design, get hands-on in the<br />

shaping bay to shape your board and create a<br />

name and logo for your board design.<br />

For information, terms and conditions and to<br />

submit your design, email us on<br />

shapersapprentice@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

GET PLANNING!<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

139


THE<br />

POWER OF ONE<br />

WITH THE RESURGENCE IN RETRO DESIGN AND RENEWED INTEREST IN SINGLE<br />

FINS, IT’S AS GOOD A TIME AS ANY TO TALK WITH GEOFF McCOY ABOUT HIS<br />

SINGLE-MINDED OBSESSION WITH THE POWER OF ONE – SINGLE FINS.<br />

Geoff’s never been one to shy away from voicing his opinions on the virtues of single fin designs. While for<br />

so long he appeared to be a lone wolf, there appears to be a growing chorus singing the same tune.<br />

“It goes back to the twin fins I shaped and built many<br />

years ago. To me the design brought with it wide,<br />

thick tails, which I recognised as a major contributor<br />

to the exciting performance and freedom the twin fin<br />

offered at the time.<br />

“After working intensely on the twin fin design for a<br />

few years, in a wide range of surf conditions both in<br />

Australia and Hawaii, I realised the shortcomings of<br />

its performance in large waves. However what I did<br />

recognise was the advantages of the wider, thicker<br />

tail. Combined with my ‘energy theory’, it motivated<br />

me to incorporate wide, thick tails with single fin<br />

design, which I originally called the Lazor Zap.”<br />

Initially Geoff was sceptical of wide, thick tails. Like<br />

many others, he thought they would slide or spin out<br />

in hollow waves. As a consequence the first models of<br />

the Lazor Zap had three flyers starting 15” up from the<br />

tail to reduce the tail area. He coupled the flyers with a<br />

swallowtail to help hold the tail in.<br />

“As time went by I began to realise the tail was not<br />

spinning out or acting unusual so I reduced the flyers<br />

back to 12” and 2 reductions into the swallow tail,<br />

which held perfectly. Not only that, the performance<br />

of the board actually improved. My next move was to<br />

have only one flyer at 6” from the tail, which worked<br />

even better.”<br />

Excited about the future possibilities of the thick, wide<br />

tail single fin design, Geoff continued to experiment.<br />

In his opinion it was already far outperforming the<br />

restricted twin fin design.<br />

“My Lazor Zap was the most progressive surfboard<br />

designed at the time. However, due to ego, greed<br />

and ignorance, my competitors at the time decided<br />

to discredit my single fin designs to diminish the<br />

influence I held in the field of surfboard design.<br />

“They did this by heavily promoting the restricted twin<br />

fin design over my revolutionary single fin design and<br />

mounting a slander campaign against the single fin. The<br />

medium they used to do this was the Pro Tour.<br />

“In collaboration with the magazine mafia, they<br />

heaped false praise on the twin fin to the public at the<br />

expense of the superior performing Lazor Zap single<br />

fin design. By doing this they were able to become the<br />

controllers of Pro Surfing and to dictate design, which<br />

they have continued to do for 30 plus years now.<br />

“Sadly what eventuated was pure ignorance in<br />

relation to the practical functions of design. The result<br />

of this ignorance is the most abstract dysfunctional<br />

surfboard of all time – the so-called modern ‘Pro’<br />

shortboard, which is the ultimate disaster for all but<br />

the elite.<br />

“The involvement of big companies with self-interest<br />

and gain has done nothing for the everyday surfer. For<br />

a long time they allowed nothing new, only the rank<br />

and file kiss-arse designers with nothing or very little<br />

to contribute but they were the ones given a voice.”<br />

It is interesting to note that the McCoy name is<br />

strangely absent from many annals of surfing history<br />

considering his influence. Throughout our travels<br />

with smorgasboarder, Geoff’s name is frequently<br />

mentioned in our discussions with shapers, collectors,<br />

historians and anyone with a passion for surfing and<br />

in particular, surfboard design. Many make mention of<br />

the design advancements the Lazor Zap introduced to<br />

surfboard shaping. Considering such comments from<br />

so many, his omission is rather odd.<br />

With the advent of new technology however,<br />

Geoff found a new voice and a means to reach<br />

the everyday surfer through the internet. His<br />

website delivered a platform to showcase<br />

his designs and as he puts it, “without the<br />

intervention of the power brokers, distorting<br />

and misrepresenting my design theory.”<br />

“Unsurprisingly my designs have attracted<br />

new enthusiastic interest because of<br />

their futuristic appearance and more to<br />

the point, their amazing performance.”<br />

140 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


PHOTO: Mark Chapman<br />

GEAR: SHAPER<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

141


THE EVOLUTION<br />

OF McCOY’S SINGLE FIN DESIGN<br />

“I found the key to understanding surfboard design was to truly understand<br />

the reaction water has on an object in motion and in particular, how<br />

different contours produce a consistent reaction. I am forever trying to<br />

neutralise the object’s reaction to allow for greater control in a wide variety<br />

of wave sizes and conditions.”<br />

To reach this level of awareness in respect to the more subtle aspects of<br />

surfing it has taken Geoff many years of research and development and the<br />

use of all available features that can be included in a design.<br />

“The only reason I know anything is because I have experimented. Through<br />

the years I have done some bizarre stuff and I now know what works.”<br />

“With regards to the evolution and development of my shaping I was very<br />

fortunate from early on. I knew a guy called Ray Richards, none other than<br />

four-time world champion Mark Richard’s dad. He was a very clever man.<br />

“Before I got to know him well, I encountered what I believed was a major<br />

problem. Every time he came to pick up some of my boards he would<br />

complain about the last lot. I got worried about it and started to wonder<br />

whether or not my crew and I were good enough to make boards for the guy.<br />

“Anyhow, one day I confronted him and said, ‘Ray, I’m sorry but I don’t<br />

think I will be able to keep making boards for you. Every time you complain.<br />

There’s always something you don’t like and we’re trying our best. Ray then<br />

said to me, ‘The boards are magnificent son, but they might not be that good<br />

if I didn’t complain and keep on your back.’ I never forgot it.<br />

“To this day I like people to pull apart what we do because it ensures we<br />

are at the top of our game. As much as you hate it, you must have someone<br />

putting it on you all the time, otherwise you go off the rails.”<br />

THE PROCESS & DESIGN FEATURES<br />

SOFT CURVES<br />

“I tried all available contours from V’s to flats, concaves, channels, rolls and<br />

finally the dome concept, which I found by far outperformed all the others.<br />

“Every shape causes a reaction. In essence you want to harness the wave’s<br />

energy and be in harmony with it so you want a shape that is neutral.<br />

“Flats, concaves and channels all dispel energy inefficiently and decrease<br />

control for the surfer. For example, when you put together a flat bottom with<br />

a hard edge you achieve maximum release, as the features of the design<br />

repel water.<br />

“It is a common belief in surfing today that edges hold water. They in fact<br />

cut the water. That is why the boards are so thin now, so they can slice<br />

through the wave. With hard edges the water sheers off. When hard edges<br />

are combined with area and thickness, too much release is created causing<br />

sliding and drifting through bottom turns and cutbacks, making controlling<br />

the object very difficult.<br />

ABOVE: Geoff explains... LEFT:<br />

Various surfboard bottom shapes.<br />

ACROSS: Geoff rides an 8ft Nugget.<br />

PHOTO: Michelle Morrison<br />

BOTTOM RIGHT: Examples of how<br />

the rail interacts with the wave.<br />

“As opposed to flat hard<br />

surfaces that repel water, I have<br />

found full soft curves hold water.<br />

This effect is consistent and<br />

predictable no matter where they<br />

are located on the object.<br />

“A wave is a smooth flowing<br />

object so why put the opposite<br />

in there – squares, straights,<br />

flats? The water will simply<br />

react or you can put something<br />

a little softer and curvier like the<br />

environment you are going to use<br />

it in and it will fit in better.”<br />

Geoff’s single fin wide, thick<br />

tail design concept is based on<br />

the subtle blending of what he<br />

refers to as ‘full loaded curves’<br />

to achieve optimum performance<br />

and ease of control.<br />

“That is why my wide thick tail<br />

designs function so well. The<br />

softened curves are designed<br />

to achieve maximum hold for<br />

control and hard edges are<br />

only used sparingly to release<br />

unnecessary used water.”<br />

142 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


“EVERY SHAPE<br />

CAUSES A REACTION.<br />

IN ESSENCE, YOU<br />

WANT TO HARNESS<br />

THE WAVE’S<br />

ENERGY AND BE IN<br />

HARMONY WITH<br />

IT, SO YOU WANT<br />

A SHAPE THAT IS<br />

NEUTRAL.”<br />

GEAR: SHAPER<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

143


THE THICK WIDE TAILS<br />

The distribution of the plan shape’s<br />

balance and thickness is designed<br />

to support the surfer where he “You bring the reaction of the object closer to your body and<br />

needs it most - in the tail of the feet and this in turn gives the surfer greater overall control.<br />

board. Geoff feels this is the most<br />

efficient way of generating energy. “Another aspect I have discovered, which is contrary<br />

to popular belief, is that the wider, thicker tail is better<br />

suited to the single fin design. This is because with a<br />

wide tail, multiple fins start to work independently from<br />

each other with unsatisfactory results.”<br />

As Geoff explains, by boosting the tail area and thickness<br />

it gives the single fin design more energy with no need to<br />

add fins to get thrust and forward motion. Plus less fins<br />

reduces drag giving the object more natural speed and<br />

maneuverability resulting in a free flowing easy to control<br />

object that is in harmony with the flow of the wave.<br />

“Not only that but by using accelerating curves such as<br />

the dome, with only one fin in the centre of the board, it<br />

allows the dome to perform more efficiently as there is<br />

no obstruction to the flow of water by side fins. This gives<br />

off a cleaner, smoother flow to the object and allows the<br />

dome to perform its correct function.<br />

NOTE: In order to explain how a ‘dome’ works it’s possibly best<br />

to exaggerate its outline. Imagine the ‘dome’ as the back of<br />

a large teaspoon built into the bottom of your board situated<br />

between where you place your two feet. This dome not only<br />

enhances the board’s hold to the wave, it enables you to<br />

smoothly roll from rail to tail as you turn the board enhancing its<br />

maneuverability.<br />

Geoff sees another very important design feature as the<br />

softening of the rails under edge. This allows the rails to<br />

hold water, which provides extra hold for the single fin,<br />

preventing sliding and spinning out and thus the need for<br />

extra fins.<br />

TOP: Astron Zot’s thick, wide tail<br />

DIAGRAM: How design features<br />

affect the reactivity of a board.<br />

RIGHT: Alistair McDiarmid from Lennox Head,<br />

Astron Zot spray art . PHOTO: Michelle Strain<br />

144 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


GEAR: SHAPER<br />

TEST THE<br />

TEASPOON<br />

THEORY<br />

Run a strong, steady<br />

stream of water from<br />

a tap. Lightly hold a<br />

teaspoon between your<br />

thumb and index finger<br />

and introduce the back<br />

of the spoon (dome-like<br />

appearance) into the<br />

water stream. The spoon<br />

will suck into the water<br />

stream and hold.<br />

DIAGRAM: How<br />

various design features<br />

affect the way a board<br />

interacts with the wave.<br />

PLAN SHAPE<br />

In years gone by, and in many cases today, single<br />

fin designs taper from a wide point forward of the<br />

middle of the board into a pintail.<br />

“This reduced volume does not serve to support<br />

the surfer and the narrow tail disperses energy.<br />

I have found by boosting the volume in the tail<br />

of the board it harnesses the energy of the wave<br />

more efficiently giving the back of the board a<br />

driving feeling as opposed to a dragging feeling.<br />

“By changing the plan shape to feature a narrow<br />

nose and wide tail, it allows the object to elevate<br />

from the tail area because of the waves natural<br />

action where water sucks up and spills over<br />

it. This causes the widest part of the object to<br />

elevate the most, so the wide tail is constantly<br />

being elevated by the wave. There is no effort<br />

required by the surfer.”<br />

EVOLUTION:<br />

From the 1972<br />

McCoy single fin<br />

(left) to the Astron<br />

Zot of today (right.)<br />

“Once you are aware of these reactions it is quite<br />

simple to adjust them to suit different surfing<br />

styles and abilities, as well as adapting them to<br />

the various design categories such as hot dog,<br />

mid range, big waves and tow boards. Being able<br />

to incorporate these concepts through a whole<br />

range of designs provides consistent performance<br />

characteristics.”<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

145


ILLUSTRATION: Robert ‘Gypo’ Fenech<br />

GEAR: SHAPER<br />

IT COMES AROUND<br />

“For too long surfboard design has<br />

only been about the pro surfer and the<br />

equipment they ride but the wheel has<br />

turned and common sense is returning.<br />

There are once again wider, thicker<br />

designs available. Mine are no longer the<br />

only ones.”<br />

As far as Geoff is concerned, the turn<br />

around in thinking is long overdue and one<br />

he has been advocating since he made<br />

the first Nugget in 1994. The acceptance<br />

and recognition of the design signals a<br />

practical return to riding equipment that is<br />

fun to surf.<br />

“It does not matter what your ability level,<br />

the main reason for surfing is to have fun<br />

and if you are not having fun, you are on<br />

the wrong equipment, it’s that simple.<br />

“From my perspective it is also interesting<br />

to note, that as the equipment focus has<br />

changed from what the pros ride to a more<br />

individual, practical approach. The average<br />

surfer is back having fun again.<br />

“For too long surfers struggled on<br />

pro equipment to be defeated by the<br />

experience. Instead of giving up in disgust,<br />

believing they ‘weren’t up to it’ or ‘past it’<br />

they have rediscovered the joy of surfing.”<br />

SOME McCOYS OF TODAY: Refined designs that have stood the test of time. (Left -right)<br />

The Lazor Zap, the Big Guy Nugget and the Astron Zot.<br />

146 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


As for Geoff’s single fin design, it<br />

has been a long time maturing. In<br />

fact, his personal preference for<br />

the last 22 years has been nothing<br />

but the single fin.<br />

“My Astron Zot’s wide thick tail<br />

is testimony to its new improved<br />

all round performance and it gives<br />

me a huge feeling of satisfaction<br />

to know what I have learned along<br />

the way and believed in for all<br />

these years is now fact.<br />

“My wide thick tail designs are<br />

now being copied worldwide by<br />

all the prominent guru designers<br />

who for years have been talking<br />

them down in complete ignorance.<br />

What am I supposed to say...<br />

They’re geniuses for taking some<br />

30+ years to catch on.”<br />

FOR MORE ON McCOY BOARDS:<br />

Visit the showroom in Byron Bay<br />

at 10 Acacia Street, call on<br />

02 6685 3227 or visit<br />

www.mccoysurfboards.com<br />

PHOTO: Mark Chapman<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

147


HAND PLANES<br />

THE TRADITIONAL<br />

THE ALLROUNDER<br />

*MAGIC PEANUT<br />

STRINGERLESS<br />

Shaper: Dave O’Reilly<br />

Specs: Varies a bit, but<br />

18” x 8” x ¾”<br />

Ideal: The bigger, the<br />

better – test yourself!<br />

Suits: Aquababies,<br />

waterboys, ironmen,<br />

swimsuit models, etc...<br />

Ability: Everyone can<br />

bodysurf. This just makes<br />

each wave last longer.<br />

Description: Headstone,<br />

Phatbat, Eclipse, Seafood<br />

Platter (and Pintail) or<br />

one for each day of the<br />

week. Bodysurf with unreal<br />

results. Turn, carve and get<br />

barrelled like never before.<br />

Totally addictive.<br />

Construction: 100%<br />

Australian grown, milled<br />

and shaped Paulownia<br />

sealed with a raw linseed/<br />

gum turpentine mix or a bio<br />

varnish gloss finish.<br />

Fins: Just the two you<br />

can put on your feet. Not<br />

compulsory but helps<br />

when you’re diving under<br />

the 8ft cleanup sets.<br />

Shaper comment: I can’t<br />

make these fast enough.<br />

Turns unsurfable onshore<br />

days into hours of fitness<br />

and fun. Requires boardies<br />

with a strong drawstring<br />

as it’s not fun walking back<br />

up the beach with just your<br />

fins and hand plane!<br />

Shaper: Dave O’Reilly<br />

Specs: 6’5” x 16 ¾” x ¾”<br />

Ideal: Small to<br />

medium clean days.<br />

Suits: Anyone who<br />

wants to glide.<br />

Ability: Beginner to pro –<br />

give it a go.<br />

Description: All custom<br />

orders are shaped from the<br />

best premium grade blanks<br />

available. A flat deck with<br />

deep bottom rails and a<br />

single concave from just<br />

behind the nose to the tail.<br />

Thin the tail to give it some<br />

looseness and hey presto!<br />

– go slide!<br />

Construction: 100%<br />

Australian grown and milled<br />

plantation Paulownia, sealed<br />

with a mix of raw linseed oil<br />

and gum turpentine.<br />

Fins: No fins required –<br />

let the rails do the work.<br />

Shaper comment: Alaias<br />

are made for time travel –<br />

they will take you back to a<br />

simple form of surfing that<br />

gives you ultimate reward<br />

– a smile you can’t wipe off<br />

your face. Take the trip!<br />

Shaper: Andrew Wells<br />

Specs: 7’0” x 21½” x 2 5 /8”<br />

Ideal: Anything you can<br />

paddle into.<br />

Suits: All levels<br />

Description: This board<br />

has a more traditional<br />

outline blended with<br />

modern rockers. Being<br />

hollow timber, there’s<br />

plenty of float and it easily<br />

skips over any fat sections<br />

while maintaining speed<br />

and drive. Additional<br />

weight of timber gives<br />

smooth flow in the water.<br />

Construction: Hollow<br />

timber - plantation<br />

grown Paulownia and<br />

recycled cedar. Resin<br />

tints available.<br />

Fins: Single or 1 + 2.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

As it’s name says, a<br />

great Allrounder. All<br />

individually handcrafted<br />

from recycled/plantation<br />

grown timber. Each board<br />

takes over 30hrs to hand<br />

craft and is completely<br />

unique. These look great,<br />

surf great and will give<br />

you years of enjoyment.<br />

Shaper: Adrian Knott<br />

Dimensions: from 4’8 -5’8<br />

Above :5’0” x 20” x 2 ½”<br />

Ideal: Knee to head height<br />

Suits: Average Joe to<br />

local rip rat<br />

Description: Magic<br />

Peanut draws inspiration<br />

from the Greenough,<br />

Simmons and paipo family.<br />

For those who find the<br />

Mini-Simmons too wide<br />

and bulky, I have narrowed<br />

down the outline, rounded<br />

out the tail and kept<br />

the rocker relaxed for<br />

speed. Little flip in the<br />

nose to get into steeper<br />

waves and added a quad<br />

setup. A super fast and<br />

manueverable little foam<br />

nugget. Ride me super short!<br />

Construction:<br />

Stringerless PU, wetrub<br />

finish, 4/4 oz deck + patch,<br />

6oz bottom.Available in<br />

full pigment or tint.<br />

Fins: Quad FCS or glass<br />

on, hand-foiled marine ply.<br />

Shaper comment: I’ve<br />

been riding the traditional<br />

Mini-Simmons for a while<br />

but when the surf is small<br />

I now reach for the Peanut.<br />

Get one in the quiver!<br />

Shaper: Thomas Bexon<br />

Dimensions:<br />

9’9” x 23 ½” x 3”<br />

Ideal conditions: Clean,<br />

hollow point waves,<br />

beachies and anything<br />

with shape.<br />

Description: A high<br />

performance log, flex is<br />

the secret with this one.<br />

Inspired by mid-sixties<br />

experiments and refined<br />

with todays knowledge,<br />

bottom roll, bladed rails,<br />

flex fin and tail scoop.<br />

Construction:<br />

Stringerless heavyweight<br />

blank, 8oz bottom double<br />

8 deck with patch<br />

Fins: Glassed on fin, box<br />

also available.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

This is a log that can be<br />

thrown around a bit more<br />

and handle a touch more<br />

size. Call me.<br />

SURFING GREEN<br />

Coolum Beach, QLD<br />

Mobile: 0412 042 811<br />

surfinggreen.com.au<br />

SURFING GREEN<br />

Coolum Beach, QLD<br />

Mobile: 0412 042 811<br />

surfinggreen.com.au<br />

GROWN SURFBOARDS<br />

Lennox Head<br />

PO Box 801, Ballina NSW 2478<br />

Ph: 0407 889 049<br />

sales@grownsurfboards.com.au<br />

grownsurfboards.com.au<br />

RAKE SURFBOARDS<br />

Torquay Vic 3228<br />

Ph : 0400560317<br />

rakesurfboards@optusnet.com.au<br />

rakesurfboards.blogspot.com<br />

www.rakefoamshapes.com<br />

THOMAS SURFBOARDS<br />

PO Box 239<br />

Noosa Heads Qld 4567<br />

Ph: 0412 131 491<br />

thomas_bexon@hotmail.com<br />

thomassurfboards.com<br />

148 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


The bean<br />

for those on<br />

a high-carbon<br />

diet...<br />

GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

BONZAR<br />

DYNOCORE FELIX<br />

LITTLE BUDDHA<br />

THE P2P<br />

SMOKIN’BEAN<br />

Shaper: Thomas Bexon<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’5” x 19 ¾” x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Chest high and bigger<br />

with push and shape.<br />

Suits: Bigger, hollower<br />

waves.<br />

Description: A Cambell<br />

Brothers inspired design,<br />

this is a single to deep<br />

double-bonzer - a getbarrelled<br />

board, basically,<br />

with drive, hold, speed<br />

and flow.<br />

Construction: Cedar<br />

stringer, foam and<br />

fiberglass with two<br />

colour tint bottom with<br />

pigment deck<br />

Fins: Glassed on bonzer<br />

4-fin and True Ames<br />

bonzer center fin.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Call me.<br />

Shaper: Dave Verrall<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’2” x 19” x 2 3 /16” = 25.4L<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

From average to<br />

performance waves.<br />

Suits: Accomplished<br />

surfers who want<br />

new feelings of higher<br />

performance<br />

Description: Originally a<br />

shaping machine mishap,<br />

but with Dave at the helm<br />

and some inspiration from<br />

Dan Thompson, this is<br />

what you get! With all the<br />

board parts you don’t need<br />

removed, the Felix has<br />

super high speed snappy<br />

turning. Made only in our<br />

Dynocore technology<br />

with deck channels and<br />

foot wells the board has<br />

pop and life with no fear<br />

of snap!<br />

A healthy addiction this<br />

summer to tighten your<br />

turns and sharpen your<br />

surfing.<br />

Construction: Dynocore<br />

incorporating a high-tech<br />

fusion of epoxy resin, exotic<br />

fibres and fused foam with<br />

engineered flex return<br />

Fins: FCS Fusion or Future<br />

Shaper comment: The<br />

best board you can get...<br />

Shaper: Jason Wiggers<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’2 ½” x 22 ¼” x 2 15 / 16”<br />

Ideal conditions: Offshore<br />

or cross shore 1 - 8 foot.<br />

Suits: Beginner to advanced<br />

Description: Our modern<br />

fun board. Slight tail rocker<br />

and tail outline has been<br />

pulled in and rounded.<br />

Combined with the slight<br />

single into vee double<br />

concave through the fins,<br />

it gives you a good feeling<br />

for nice rail-to-rail turns.<br />

Construction: Ecofriendly<br />

and custom-made.<br />

Supersap Bio Epoxy<br />

Resin, bamboo mesh<br />

reinforcement, recycled<br />

Marko EPS foam blank and<br />

Probox fin boxes.<br />

Fins: Five fin set up, quad<br />

or thruster. FCS green fins.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Help the environment.<br />

These custom made<br />

boards are nearly 100%<br />

eco-friendly and Samsara<br />

Surfboards are one of<br />

the leading Eco friendly<br />

board manufacturers in<br />

Australia at the moment.<br />

Shaper: Paul Woodbry<br />

Specs: 6’3” x 19 ½” x 2 7 /16”<br />

Ideal: 3 - 6ft<br />

Suits: Anyone who loves<br />

to drive hard off the bottom<br />

and attack the lip. Also<br />

loves to tube ride.<br />

Description: Paddles<br />

well - goes really fast.<br />

You can drive it as hard<br />

as you want from bottom<br />

to top. In waves from<br />

3 - 6ft you can’t ask for a<br />

better model.<br />

Construction:<br />

Polyester resin and<br />

Southcoast blanks.<br />

Australian made 100%,<br />

Surfboardgraphics decal.<br />

Fins: Thruster set up<br />

Shaper comment: This<br />

shape never lets you<br />

down, heaps of speed and<br />

control all wrapped in one<br />

package.<br />

Woody Surf Design<br />

boards exclusively<br />

available from:<br />

Shaper: James Ellis -<br />

OSX - APS3000<br />

Specs: 5’11” x 22 1 / 8” x 3 1 / 16”<br />

Ideal: 1-4 ft, all types<br />

of surf.<br />

Suits: At this width and<br />

thickness, guys and girls<br />

90kg+. Custom available.<br />

Description: Flat, super<br />

fast and resembles a black<br />

jellybean. Tiny amount of<br />

reverse V. Sharp rounded<br />

tail, fishy nose, beautiful<br />

full rails for excellent hold.<br />

Construction: High-end. 200<br />

GSM Cert. Japanese TORAY<br />

Twill Weave Carbon fibre,<br />

SCB PU foam, epoxy resin<br />

and acrylic epoxy gloss coats.<br />

Fins: Shapers plugs (5mm<br />

forward and back travel)<br />

with DVS (Dick Van Straalen)<br />

carbon fibre/composite fins<br />

from Shapers<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Catches waves as easy as<br />

a mal. Turns like a shorty.<br />

Carbon construction gives<br />

this board a rocketing<br />

parabolic rail effect. A<br />

team effort between<br />

Distribution, D.D.S.A.<br />

CREATIVE, Pete from OES.<br />

THOMAS SURFBOARDS<br />

PO Box 239<br />

Noosa Heads Qld 4567<br />

Ph: 0412 131 491<br />

thomas_bexon@hotmail.com<br />

thomassurfboards.com<br />

DIVERSE SURFBOARDS<br />

476 Gold Coast Hwy,<br />

Tugun, QLD 4224<br />

Ph: 07 5598 4848<br />

dave@diversesurf.com.au<br />

diversesurf.com.au<br />

SAMSARA SURF<br />

Ph: 03 5622 0651<br />

Mob: 0422 190 223<br />

97 Albert St,warragul,<br />

3820 Victoria, Australia<br />

jason@samsarasurfboards.com<br />

samsarasurfboards.com<br />

SURFWARE AUSTRALIA<br />

2 Bulcock Street,<br />

Caloundra QLD 4551<br />

Ph: 07 5491 3620<br />

surfwareaustralia.com<br />

DISTRIBUTION SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0410 175 552<br />

PO BOX 633 Willunga<br />

SA 5172<br />

james@ljdistribution.com.au<br />

Available through<br />

interested surf stores<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

149


SINGLE FIN<br />

8’ LONGBOARD<br />

THE PUNTER<br />

CORE 6’ SOFTBOARD<br />

FLUID 7’ SOFTBOARD<br />

Shaper: Mark Rabbidge<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’2” x 20” x 2 ¾”<br />

single flyer single fin<br />

Ideal: All conditions,<br />

small to mid range<br />

Ability: All surfers who<br />

want to have fun<br />

Description: Modern<br />

version of old standard.<br />

Basically, find an old<br />

good one, ride it and then<br />

improve it.<br />

Construction: Fantastic<br />

polyester<br />

Fins: One glass-on or box<br />

Shaper comment: These<br />

boards are not novelty<br />

designs - they surf in an<br />

all round modern way<br />

without the hang-ups of<br />

old 70’s technology.<br />

Shaper: Mark Rabbidge<br />

Dimensions:<br />

8’ x 21” x 2 ¾”<br />

Suits: Custom tailored to<br />

suit the individual<br />

Description: Double<br />

ender well balanced<br />

board. Trim concave<br />

through middle, roll vee<br />

through the tail.<br />

Construction: Dion foam<br />

blanks. I’ve been dealing<br />

with them for 45 years<br />

and for good reason.<br />

Fins: 3 fin set up.<br />

Shaper comment: I<br />

have been making this<br />

board since the 80’s. It’s<br />

like a shortboard you can<br />

noseride.<br />

Shaper:<br />

Terry “Snake” Bishop<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’6” x 19” x 2 5 /16”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Punchy beach breaks or<br />

anything with a ramp.<br />

Suits: Youngster who<br />

want to pop airs.<br />

Description: Short,<br />

wide, flattened rocker and<br />

as thick as your normal<br />

shortboard. It’s fast and<br />

really responsive.<br />

Construction: PU Foam<br />

and polyester resin.<br />

Fins: Works well as<br />

thruster and quad.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

This board is one for the<br />

trickster. Good if you want<br />

something that rockets<br />

around in the small stuff,<br />

and great for air section.<br />

Specs: 6’ x 20 7 / 8” x 2 ¼”<br />

Ideal: Beach breaks for<br />

learners and point breaks<br />

for more advanced riders.<br />

Suits: Learners and<br />

advanced riders looking to<br />

have fun.<br />

Description: A softboard<br />

that is easy to ride for the<br />

learner but also a great fun<br />

board for an established<br />

rider. This is the most high<br />

performance softboard on<br />

the market.<br />

Construction: EPS core,<br />

double stringers, HDPE<br />

slick, NXL deck, pin line<br />

rail system.<br />

Fins: Thruster with plastic<br />

screw in fins.<br />

El Nino comment:<br />

Perfect for almost<br />

anybody. This softboard<br />

is a performance shape<br />

that will help a beginner<br />

advance quicker into<br />

performing turns and<br />

an advanced rider will<br />

have a blast on this easy<br />

paddling softboard. Take<br />

the soft option!<br />

Specs: 7’ x 21 ¾” x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal: Fun beach break or<br />

point break set ups. Wave<br />

conditions up to shoulder<br />

height.<br />

Suits: The learner, the<br />

surfer returning to the sport<br />

and the surfer who just<br />

likes having fun. Plus, you<br />

can ride your softboard<br />

through the flags.<br />

Description: It’s a<br />

softboard designed<br />

for fun. The board<br />

is designed with a<br />

performance template<br />

that is great for zipping<br />

through the crowded<br />

summer line ups. You<br />

will be paddling circles<br />

around your mates!<br />

Construction: EPS core,<br />

double stringers, HDPE<br />

slick, NXL deck.<br />

Fins: Thruster with plastic<br />

screw in fins.<br />

El Nino comment:<br />

A must have summer<br />

item for catching waves<br />

on during the busy<br />

summer months. Take the<br />

soft option!<br />

RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN<br />

Ph: 02 4456 4038<br />

Mobile: 0427 767 176<br />

Bendalong, NSW 2539<br />

www.markrabbidge.com<br />

RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN<br />

Ph: 02 4456 4038<br />

Mobile: 0427 767 176<br />

Bendalong, NSW 2539<br />

www.markrabbidge.com<br />

CARABINE SURFBOARDS<br />

36 Finders Street<br />

Wollongong, NSW<br />

Ph/Fax: 02 4229 9462<br />

carabinesurfboards.com.au<br />

MANTA SURF CO. PTY LTD<br />

6 Woodfield Blvd,<br />

Caringbah NSW 2229<br />

Ph: 02 8536 4700<br />

admin@elninosurf.com.au<br />

www.elninosurf.com.au<br />

MANTA SURF CO. PTY LTD<br />

6 Woodfield Blvd,<br />

Caringbah NSW 2229<br />

Ph: 02 8536 4700<br />

admin@elninosurf.com.au<br />

www.elninosurf.com.au<br />

150 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


THE<br />

Mitch Adams from the Sunshine Coast in the<br />

YOU MAY BE<br />

NOBODY<br />

(BUT GASFins CARES WHO YOU ARE)<br />

SEARCH FOR SORT-OF-GREATNESS<br />

PHOTO: JACK DEKORT<br />

JANUARY<br />

NOBODY<br />

MITCH ADAMS<br />

HOME BREAK: Coolum Beach<br />

BOARD: 5’7 Dumpster Diver<br />

FINS: HPM and HPXS GASfins<br />

FAVOURITE FOOD: Mexicana<br />

BEST WEEKEND: Beers, chicks, mates.<br />

Oh, and cracker surf.<br />

THE PHOTO: Taken by my mate<br />

Jack Dekort from Coolum Beach,<br />

at Coolum Beach. Jack said the<br />

conditions were really clean all day<br />

but the lighting that arvo was great.<br />

WE NEED HOME<br />

TOWN HEROES!<br />

At GASfins we reckon you should be able to enjoy the benefits<br />

of a top quality product, without the price tag, whether you’re<br />

a pro or not! And we reckon you deserve the fame too... Send<br />

in a photo of yourself showing your skills on your shortboard,<br />

longboard or the like to be in the running for GASfins gear and<br />

more. Score yourself a pack of fins and accessories AND reach<br />

the giddy heights of fame as our next nobody.<br />

HPXS THRUSTER<br />

Smaller version of the HPX. Centre fin is slightly<br />

smaller to give you quick release through turns.<br />

Great for small conditions or lighter surfers.<br />

WWW.GASFINS.COM.AU<br />

GET GAS POWER UNDER YOUR BOARD Ask your local shaper for GASfins<br />

PROUDLY USED BY SHAPERS ALL DOWN THE EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA AND INTERNATONALLY.<br />

SHAPERS: Get in touch to try GASfins yourself. Quality and performance for your customers without the price tag for you. 0417 980 524 • gasfins@gmail.com<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

151


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

FIVE QUESTIONS FOR<br />

WAYNE<br />

MCKEWEN<br />

WORDS: DAVE SWAN<br />

PHOTO: MARK CHAPMAN<br />

You’re widely recognised<br />

as a top-notch competitive<br />

surfer in your time. Do you<br />

have to be an elite surfer to<br />

be an accomplished shaper?<br />

Unless you have really good team<br />

of riders, it’s hard to get the indepth<br />

feedback you require without<br />

feeling it yourself. Al Merrick, for<br />

example, was never the best surfer<br />

but he has an exceptional team (none<br />

other than Kelly Slater).<br />

With me, Bede Durbidge (currently<br />

ranked in the top 15) is really good at<br />

communicating what he wants. Having<br />

also been a competitive surfer, I can<br />

relate to what he is after.<br />

This no doubt assists with your work<br />

with the likes of Bede but how about<br />

the average Joe Blow or Jane Doe?<br />

When you are working with elite surfers<br />

your eye for detail has to pick up so much<br />

more. You have to tune in to the finer details.<br />

This attention to detail certainly assists<br />

shaping boards for the average punter. You<br />

simply adapt and refine those design principles<br />

so they are more forgiving.<br />

Straight pro boards however don’t work for the<br />

average, everyday surfer. It took the public five<br />

years to figure that out. They saw what the best<br />

surfers were riding in the mags and wanted to<br />

surf those models, but unless you’re a pro they are<br />

dysfunctional.<br />

What’s your take on the growing trend towards<br />

surfers riding shorter boards and retro styles?<br />

Boards in the 80s were a lot better for the all-round<br />

surfer than recent wafer-thin models. The concave of a<br />

modern board only works in premium conditions.<br />

80s boards were shorter because they had<br />

fuller outlines and less rocker. You could ride<br />

a wider variety of waves. I fully understand<br />

them because I was riding those boards back<br />

then at comp level and then began shaping<br />

them too.<br />

Speaking of such styles, you have thrown<br />

a fair bit of energy behind development<br />

of The Bullet. Would you like to briefly<br />

explain the progression of the design?<br />

I have been going for 3-4 years on its design<br />

from when fishes became popular again. Fishes<br />

are great in small surf but with such a wide<br />

nose and tail, they just skip out when the surf<br />

gets over 3ft. I wanted something that had a<br />

performance aspect to the design as well so it<br />

could handle waves when it got up around 4-6ft.<br />

The Bullet has an 80s style to it with a flatter<br />

rocker and a bit of vee but with refined design<br />

elements and curves that have been developed<br />

over a prolonged and intense testing period.<br />

Finally, is there a particular shaper you<br />

look up to or that has mentored you through<br />

the years?<br />

I have enormous respect for the Hawaiian shaper<br />

Eric Arakawa. In Australia, I have always looked up<br />

to guys like Allan and Ian Byrne. I worked under Alan<br />

for about 10 years when he was widely considered<br />

one of the world’s best, and have been shaping<br />

alongside Ian for around 15 years.<br />

I also have a great deal of respect for Rodney<br />

Dahlberg. These guys aren’t in it for the money, they<br />

are turned on by the art of shaping.<br />

But the guy who has truly mentored me and provided<br />

with so much more than a bit of guidance is Gill<br />

Glover, former shaper to Rabbit Bartholomew. He is a<br />

meticulous craftsman and has developed my skills and<br />

instilled in me a lot of confidence as a shaper.<br />

SHAPER<br />

Wayne McKewen<br />

MT WOODGEE<br />

Currumbin, Gold Coast, QLD<br />

SHAPING<br />

Just on 30 years<br />

BRIEF BACKGROUND<br />

Fomer champion surfer who came 2 nd to Tom<br />

Curren in the 1980 World Title race. Arrived on the<br />

Gold Coast in 1972 and started shaping for Hot Stuff<br />

under Alan Byrne. Joined Mt Woodgee in 1985.<br />

MORE INFORMATION<br />

WWW.MTWOODGEE.COM.AU<br />

152 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


MINI BULLET<br />

CHANNEL BOTTOM<br />

THE WOMBAT<br />

BIG DADDY SKULL<br />

THE BIG KOI<br />

Shaper: Wayne McKewen<br />

Specs: 5’11” x 19 ¼” x 2 7 / 16”<br />

Ideal: Anywhere from<br />

small beachies to medium<br />

point or reef waves.<br />

Suits: Surfers looking for<br />

better performance in a<br />

small wave board<br />

Description: These<br />

boards are stringerless to<br />

maximise flex. They have<br />

flatter rockers and a bit<br />

more volume as they need<br />

to be quite short to get<br />

the maximum benefit from<br />

the design. Most are vee<br />

bottoms and there are nine<br />

tail variations. Length is<br />

from 5’7” to 6’0”.<br />

Construction:<br />

PU Burford blank, 4 x 4oz<br />

decks and 4oz bottom.<br />

Fins: All have FCS 5-fin set<br />

ups to allow you to use as a<br />

thruster or a quad.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Added flex translates<br />

to a whippy feel and<br />

acceleration through<br />

turns. Customer and<br />

team feedback has been<br />

excellent.<br />

MT WOODGEE<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Stores at Coolangatta,<br />

Currumbin, Burleigh Heads<br />

Ph: 07 5535 0288<br />

www.mtwoodgee.com.au<br />

Shaper: Ian Byrne<br />

Specs: 6’2” x 18 ½” x 2 ¼”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

3-6ft good quality waves.<br />

Suits: Anyone looking<br />

for extra drive speed and<br />

hold in hollow point or<br />

reef waves<br />

Ability: Int. to competition<br />

Description:<br />

A thoroughbred that comes<br />

into its own when the<br />

waves are clean, fast and<br />

hollow. Stock range is from<br />

6’2”- 6’6” in round pin tails<br />

or swallows. Can be custom<br />

made to any size including<br />

7 foot+ Hawaiian guns.<br />

Construction:<br />

PU Burford blank, 4 x 4oz<br />

decks and 4oz bottom.<br />

Fins: FCS thruster set up.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Ian has made Channel<br />

Bottoms for over 20<br />

years. The design has<br />

been proven in the best<br />

waves on the planet.<br />

This is for serious surfing<br />

destinations like G-land<br />

or Hawaii and works well<br />

on points and beachies.<br />

If you’re looking for a<br />

superfast, down-the-line<br />

board, this will deliver.<br />

MT WOODGEE<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Stores at Coolangatta,<br />

Currumbin, Burleigh Heads<br />

Ph: 07 5535 0288<br />

www.mtwoodgee.com.au<br />

Shaper: Lee Cheyne<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’2” x 19 ¼” x 2 3 /8”<br />

Ideal: Small waves<br />

Suits: Everyone<br />

Description:<br />

Short, thick and wide.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

PU foam, Surf 9 4oz glass<br />

and Silmar resin.<br />

Fins: Yes. however<br />

many you need.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Small wave summer<br />

board that should go ok in<br />

winter too.<br />

LEE CHEYNE DESIGNS<br />

19/48 Machinery Dr,<br />

Tweed Heads South<br />

NSW 2486<br />

Ph: 07 5523 3237<br />

lcdboards@gmail.com<br />

myspace.com/454626994<br />

tradewindsurf.com.au<br />

www.facebook.com/<br />

people/Lee-Cheyne-<br />

Surfboards/1620685674<br />

Shaper: Dean “Dino” Tziolis<br />

Specs: 5’10” x 20 ¼” x 2 3 /8”<br />

Ideal: If you’re not sure<br />

about buying a fish or a<br />

shortboard, this is the<br />

board you’re looking for -<br />

two boards in one. Great<br />

for point or beach breaks.<br />

Description:<br />

Unbelievable paddle<br />

power, wave catcher,<br />

super fun to ride. Easy<br />

turns. High performance<br />

on small waves and<br />

plenty of rocker for<br />

medium surf. Super<br />

fast and very forgiving.<br />

Custom tattoo art by one<br />

of Australia’s cutting<br />

edge and leading tattoo<br />

artists, Marco Ventura.<br />

Plenty of designs to<br />

choose from and the<br />

option to have custom<br />

art developed for your<br />

individual style.<br />

Construction: PU Core<br />

South Coast blanks, top<br />

quality glassing, Future<br />

or FCS Fusion fins. High<br />

quality art decal inlays.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Inkside Surfboards are a<br />

quality brand with tried<br />

and tested experience,<br />

producing boards from<br />

three Gold Coast shapers<br />

with over 30 years of<br />

experience.<br />

INKSIDE SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0431 455 928<br />

info@tattoosurfnink.com<br />

www.tattoosurfnink.com<br />

Shaper: Dean “Dino” Tziolis<br />

Specs: 5’10” x 20” x 2½”<br />

Ideal: 1-4 ft beach breaks<br />

and points. Great shorey<br />

for summer waves. Suits<br />

beginner to advanced.<br />

Description: Fast, loose<br />

and radical. Easy to<br />

surf, great for airs and<br />

reverses. Fish dimensions<br />

that go like a short board!<br />

Single concave, swallow<br />

tail and custom tattoo<br />

art by one of Australia’s<br />

cutting edge and leading<br />

tattoo artists, Marco<br />

Ventura. Plenty of designs<br />

to choose from and the<br />

option to have custom<br />

art developed for your<br />

individual style.<br />

Construction: PU Core<br />

South Coast blanks, top<br />

quality glassing, Future<br />

or FCS Fusion fins. High<br />

quality art decal inlays.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Inkside Surfboards are a<br />

quality brand with tried<br />

and tested experience,<br />

producing boards from<br />

three Gold Coast shapers<br />

with over 30 years of<br />

experience.<br />

INKSIDE SURFBOARDS<br />

1/2<strong>09</strong>8 Gold Coast<br />

Highway Miami QLD 4220<br />

Ph: 0431 455 928<br />

info@tattoosurfnink.com<br />

www.tattoosurfnink.com<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

153


B Y R O N B A Y . A U S T R A L I A<br />

B Y R O N B A Y . A U S T R A L I A<br />

THE EQUALISER<br />

KNEEBOARD<br />

Shaper: Dave Parkes<br />

Specs: 6’2” x 24½” x 3 5 /8”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Beach and point breaks.<br />

Description: The same<br />

outline as I surf myself,<br />

this is my most popular<br />

shape but made to suit<br />

a surfer of 120kg plus -<br />

Note, 3 5 /8” thickness. Not<br />

just a floater or a blob!<br />

Low rails, particularly<br />

through tail, give bite<br />

and a feeling of carve. A<br />

single to double concave<br />

for performance.<br />

Construction: PU or EPS<br />

and epoxy. Strong 6oz<br />

glass and extra kneepatch<br />

for heavy landings!<br />

Fins: 4-fin set up using<br />

bigger templates.<br />

Shaper comment: If<br />

you’re a big guy and want<br />

performance but don’t<br />

want an extra-long or<br />

wide board just to get<br />

bouyancy,then this is the<br />

way to go. Adapatable to<br />

tri-fin shapes and other<br />

outlines like area rounded<br />

pins and diamond tails.<br />

DIAMOND TAIL<br />

KNEEBOARD<br />

Shaper: Dave Parkes<br />

Specs: 6’0” x 24” x 3”<br />

Ideal: Beach and point<br />

breaks.<br />

Suits: This board’s<br />

dimensions are suited to<br />

a rider in the 90-100kg<br />

range for all-round surfing.<br />

Description: Today’s<br />

version of the boards I<br />

surfed in the 80s, but<br />

with modern refinements.<br />

The flyer gives a release<br />

point when wanted, but<br />

the flute on the top rail<br />

taps into the wave in<br />

longer turns for drive.<br />

Construction:<br />

Top quality PU foam,<br />

resin and glass.The<br />

polished finish coat<br />

accentuates this.<br />

Fins: Mostly made as a 4<br />

-fin or a tri with big sides<br />

and small centre.<br />

Shaper comment: An<br />

easy-paddling all-rounder.<br />

THROWDOWN<br />

SKIMBOARD<br />

Shaper: Leighton Clark<br />

Which one to choose:<br />

S - 50kg or below<br />

M - 50-75kg<br />

L - 75kg (pictured)<br />

XL - 90kg +<br />

Ideal: Shorey, with a sick<br />

backwash or glistening<br />

sandbars.<br />

Suits: Anyone looking for<br />

fun at the water's edge<br />

Description: All<br />

Throwdown skimboards<br />

are vacuum-bagged using<br />

5/8 or 3/4 Divinycell core,<br />

epoxy resin, E glass with<br />

double wraps.<br />

Construction: Custom<br />

options include taper<br />

nose and tail, S glass,<br />

carbon, carbon stringers,<br />

board size and template,<br />

colours and artwork,<br />

decal placements. the<br />

choice is yours!!<br />

Fins: Don't be silly<br />

Shaper comment: We<br />

also supply Throwdown<br />

tail pads and arch bars<br />

BRAD’S MICRO MAL<br />

Shaper: Paul Carson<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’6” x 21¾ x 2 5 / 8 “<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Anything up to serious<br />

size.<br />

Suits: Anyone<br />

Description: Mal nose<br />

area, short board tail.<br />

Nose width is 18” and<br />

tail width 14 ½” with 5<br />

½” diamond tail. Light<br />

concave through to double<br />

concave in tail.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

blank, resin colour painted<br />

on the blank.<br />

Fins: Box single with<br />

small sides.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Done a few variations<br />

in this idea. Really<br />

manoeuvrable and easy<br />

to surf and can be a nose<br />

rider.<br />

CHRIS’<br />

TRIPLE STRINGER<br />

Shaper: Paul Carson<br />

Dimensions:<br />

9’3” x 23 ½” x 3”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Anything, but definitely<br />

great point board.<br />

Suits: Anyone who wants<br />

little more surface area =<br />

stability.<br />

Description: Light<br />

concave under nose<br />

running 2 / 3 to the tail into<br />

slight vee.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

blank, full 6oz glass job<br />

(green tint) over green<br />

resin brushed on panels.<br />

Fins: Single fin box.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Great all round mal,<br />

more pulled in tail for<br />

maneuverability.<br />

C U S T O M K N E E B O A R D S<br />

PARKES AUSTRALIA<br />

4/83 Centennial Circuit<br />

Byron Bay, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 6685 6627<br />

E: d-par@bigpond.com<br />

parkesaustralia.com<br />

C U S T O M K N E E B O A R D S<br />

PARKES AUSTRALIA<br />

4/83 Centennial Circuit<br />

Byron Bay, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 6685 6627<br />

E: d-par@bigpond.com<br />

parkesaustralia.com<br />

CLARK SURFBOARDS<br />

20 Cottage Road,<br />

Hackham SA<br />

E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au<br />

M: 0422 443 789<br />

Available at<br />

www.onboardsurf.com.au<br />

THE FACTORY<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

CALOUNDRA<br />

17 Allen Street<br />

Caloundra QLD 4551<br />

Ph: 07 5492 5838<br />

factorysurf@southernfoam.com.au<br />

thefactorysurfboards.com.au<br />

THE FACTORY<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

CALOUNDRA<br />

17 Allen Street<br />

Caloundra QLD 4551<br />

Ph: 07 5492 5838<br />

factorysurf@southernfoam.com.au<br />

thefactorysurfboards.com.au<br />

154 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

THE LOG<br />

SPIRIT BOARD<br />

CARBON FIBRE MINI MAL<br />

THE KING FISH<br />

THE STUBBIE<br />

Shaper: Mitchell Rae<br />

Specs: 9’4” x 23” x 3 ¼”<br />

Suits: Beach, reef and<br />

point breaks<br />

Description: Back to the<br />

60’s... Walk, trim and glide.<br />

This board features classic<br />

lines, 50/50 rails rolled<br />

bottom and nose concave.<br />

Construction:<br />

8oz glass, pigments tints,<br />

gloss and polish<br />

Fins: Single fin<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Generating awesome<br />

feedback from the beach.<br />

These boards draw on<br />

the shaper’s experience<br />

of learning to surf on 60’s<br />

longboards.<br />

Shaper: Mitchell Rae<br />

Specs: 6’8” x 18 ¾” x 2 ½”<br />

Suits: Beach, reef and<br />

point breaks<br />

Description: V2 Flex<br />

construction with a deep<br />

single concave and spiral<br />

chine entry.<br />

Construction:<br />

PU foam, strong, light<br />

glassing, gloss and polish<br />

Fins: Single fin<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Designed for some serious<br />

fun soul surfing in any kind<br />

of waves. Broaden your<br />

mind, elevate your spirit<br />

Specs: 7’6” x 21 1 /8” x 2 7 /8”<br />

Ideal Conditions: 1-4ft<br />

Suits: Caters for all<br />

types and age surfers<br />

and handles well in most<br />

conditions.<br />

Description: Carbon<br />

Fibre Mini Mal made<br />

from recycled foam and<br />

environmentally friendly<br />

resin. Lightweight, super<br />

strong and durable.<br />

Polished mirror finish looks<br />

amazing.<br />

Construction: Carbon<br />

fibre, recycled EPS foam,<br />

low VOC epoxy resin<br />

Fins: Comes Carbon fibre/<br />

bamboo FCS-compatible<br />

fins. Thruster setup.<br />

Pricing: $1250 (inc GST)<br />

Comes in a package<br />

including hemp boardbag,<br />

carbon fibre/bamboo<br />

fins, recycled leash and<br />

organic wax. Groovy<br />

Baby!<br />

Shaper: Michael Cundith<br />

Length: 6’10” - 8’<br />

Width: 22” - 24”<br />

Thickness: 3” - 3 ½”<br />

Ideal condition: Most<br />

Suits: Older surfers<br />

Description: This fish is<br />

between the Dart and the<br />

Whale fish.<br />

Construction: Strong<br />

Fins: Twin keels, or<br />

alternately 4 or 5 fins.<br />

Shaper comment: Great<br />

fun performer that catches<br />

waves easily, turns and<br />

trims. The King Fish holds<br />

in well as fins are set back<br />

on the tail.<br />

Shaper: Michael Cundith<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’ x 21 ½” x 2 ¾” or<br />

custom made to any size<br />

Ideal: Small to medium surf<br />

Suits: All types of surfer<br />

Description: A remake of<br />

my 1960’s model with an<br />

updated bottom shape and<br />

rocker, with slight concave<br />

chines and bottom to tail<br />

pod vee. Great for paddling<br />

into waves, fantastic for<br />

late take-offs as it’s wide<br />

and stable, and accelerates<br />

instantly. You can actually<br />

feel it rise up on top of the<br />

water. 5-fin setup works<br />

perfectly for the wide tail.<br />

It holds in, is still loose and<br />

has heaps of drive with<br />

amazing trim speed. It can<br />

be made to any size.<br />

Construction:<br />

Strong and not too heavy<br />

Fins: Single or twin keel,<br />

3 ,4 and 5<br />

Shaper comment: This<br />

board is a winner - we<br />

are getting heaps of<br />

favorable feedback.<br />

OUTER ISLAND<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

7 Bayldon Drive,<br />

Raleigh, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 6655 7007<br />

info@outerislandsurfboards.com<br />

outerislandsurfboards.com<br />

outerisland.blogspot.com<br />

OUTER ISLAND<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

7 Bayldon Drive,<br />

Raleigh, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 6655 7007<br />

info@outerislandsurfboards.com<br />

outerislandsurfboards.com<br />

outerisland.blogspot.com<br />

ECOTEC SURFBOARDS<br />

Torquay, VIC<br />

Ph: 0417 520 052<br />

E: info@ecotecsurfboards.com<br />

www.ecotecsurfboards.com<br />

MICHAEL CUNDITH<br />

SURF DESIGNS<br />

Ph: 02 6685 8778<br />

3 Banksia Dve,<br />

Byron Bay Industrial Estate<br />

BYRON BAY NSW 2481<br />

E: info@mcsurf.com.au<br />

www.mcsurf.com.au<br />

MICHAEL CUNDITH<br />

SURF DESIGNS<br />

Ph: 02 6685 8778<br />

3 Banksia Dve,<br />

Byron Bay Industrial Estate<br />

BYRON BAY NSW 2481<br />

E: info@mcsurf.com.au<br />

www.mcsurf.com.au<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

155


SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

GEAR: BOARDS<br />

MANGROVE<br />

JACK LOG<br />

Shaper: Jed Done<br />

Specs: 9’4” x 23” x 2 7 / 8”<br />

Ideal: Ankle to head high,<br />

depending on ability level.<br />

Suits: Point beaks and fun<br />

peelers.<br />

Ability: Beginner to pro.<br />

Description: Old school<br />

log shape with roll bottom<br />

and pinched 50/50 rails,<br />

very light nose concave in<br />

the front quarter.<br />

Construction: Dion foam.<br />

Hot chocolate pigment<br />

bottom, orange tint deck,<br />

white resin pinlines, full<br />

gloss, 6 x 4 oz bottom, 6 x<br />

6 x 4 oz deck.<br />

Fins: I made a 9 ½” George<br />

Greenough template<br />

orange tint fin, in a 10” box.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Surfed it last night and it<br />

was so much fun!.<br />

Shaper: Greg Brown<br />

Specs: 9’1” x 21 ¾” x 2 ¾”<br />

Description: It’s a<br />

performer, say no more.<br />

Construction:<br />

PU foam polyester resin,<br />

6 oz bottom, 12 oz deck,<br />

pigments, built to last<br />

Fins: 2 + 1<br />

Shaper comment: It’s a<br />

performer hands down.<br />

Stand on the back and<br />

give it a wack. Stand on<br />

the front and it bucks like<br />

a &$!#.<br />

Zak Surfboards has a<br />

huge range of Bombora<br />

surfboards in store.<br />

Customs from Greg<br />

Brown can be ordered<br />

through Zak Surfboards in<br />

Melbourne.<br />

THE BIG TOP<br />

Shaper: Dave Boyd<br />

Specs: 9’5” x 23 ¼” x 3 1 / 8”<br />

Ideal: Comfortable 1-4ft,<br />

anything from small points<br />

to A-framed beachies.<br />

Description: A modern<br />

nose rider, it catches<br />

waves and lets you<br />

noseride with ease.<br />

One of the most popular<br />

models in the Imperial<br />

range, this board is the for<br />

the surfer looking to own<br />

one longboard, or looking<br />

to become more proficient<br />

at noseriding without<br />

sacrificing turning.<br />

Construction: Bottom<br />

shape has a single flow<br />

nose concave that blends<br />

to r/vee then spiral vee<br />

through the tail. These<br />

features allow the boards<br />

turning and with its 19 ¾”<br />

nose riding capabilities,<br />

to really shine. PU blank<br />

7.5mm stringer with<br />

double 6oz deck and 6oz<br />

bottom with tail patch.<br />

Tinted and pigmented<br />

polyester resins.<br />

Fins: 2+1 fin set up<br />

Shaper comment: the<br />

Big Top has been one of<br />

our best sellers because<br />

of its versatility. One<br />

board many options.<br />

VANE LOG<br />

Shaper: Sean Nettleton<br />

Specs: 9’4” x 23” x 3”<br />

Ideal: 2ft clean peelers<br />

Suits: from 1 - 3ft surf.<br />

Ability level: Beginner to<br />

advanced.<br />

Description: Concave<br />

nose into rolled bottom,<br />

a lot of tail rocker to aid<br />

noseriding and turning.<br />

Construction:<br />

Surf Blanks hard grade<br />

foam 6 x 6 x 6.<br />

Fins: Single fin box.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Perfect board if you<br />

wanna spend a bit more<br />

time on the nose but still<br />

want to do some turns...<br />

If you call into Zaks and<br />

want more info on the<br />

boards, just get one of<br />

the boys to give me a ring<br />

to have a chat.<br />

WAVE CONTROLLER<br />

Shaper: Stewart Maxwell<br />

Specs: 7’8” x 22” x 2 5 / 8”<br />

Ideal conditions: 3-6ft<br />

Ability: Medium to high<br />

Description: Concave<br />

bottom, 4mm vee and<br />

double concave through fins.<br />

Construction: 6 x 4oz<br />

deck, 6oz bottom<br />

Fins: Quad, Raptor system<br />

Shaper’s Comment:<br />

Not to be discounted,<br />

high performance rail, this<br />

board performs if pushed<br />

and driven!!<br />

Custom shaped to your<br />

requirement. Fin combo,<br />

your choice.<br />

Fitted with SBT Surfboard<br />

Tracker security systems.<br />

As a custom specialist<br />

with 40 years experience.<br />

I make surfboards with<br />

personality, talk with you,<br />

find out exactly what you<br />

require and then make it.<br />

BUSHRAT SURFBOARDS<br />

Merimbula NSW<br />

Ph: 04<strong>09</strong> 813 431<br />

E: jed@bushrat.com<br />

www.bushrat.com<br />

ZAK SURFBOARDS<br />

307 Victoria Road<br />

Thornbury VIC 3071<br />

Ph: 03 9416 7384<br />

Mobile: 0438 416 738<br />

zak@zaksurfboards.com<br />

zaksurfboards.com<br />

ZAK SURFBOARDS<br />

307 Victoria Road<br />

Thornbury VIC 3071<br />

Ph: 03 9416 7384<br />

Mobile: 0438 416 738<br />

zak@zaksurfboards.com<br />

zaksurfboards.com<br />

ZAK SURFBOARDS<br />

307 Victoria Road<br />

Thornbury VIC 3071<br />

Ph: 03 9416 7384<br />

Mobile: 0438 416 738<br />

zak@zaksurfboards.com<br />

zaksurfboards.com<br />

MAXIMUM SURF PTY LTD<br />

Currumbin QLD 4223<br />

Ph: 07 5559 5940<br />

Mob: 0400 338 <strong>09</strong>8<br />

maximumsurf@bigpond.com<br />

maximumsurfdesigns.com<br />

156 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


decades of real curves for those<br />

who can feel the difference since ‘76<br />

surfboards direct call<br />

robbie page ed sinnott<br />

0401040862 040405932<br />

espsurfboards.com<br />

espsurfshop.com.au<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

157


MISSING-LINK THE FROTHER THE FROW TRANSPLANT STUMPY-RAY<br />

Shaper: Ryan Bridges<br />

Shaper: Ryan Bridges<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’10” x 19 ¼” x 2 7 /16”<br />

Suits: Good surfer, 75-80kg<br />

Ability: Intermediate to<br />

advanced surfers.<br />

Description: All about<br />

high performance surfing<br />

in small waves. We’ve<br />

incorporated the ‘shorter,<br />

wider, thicker, flatter’<br />

principles that make<br />

fishes work into a high<br />

performance shortboard<br />

package, so you don’t<br />

have to compromise<br />

performance when the<br />

waves get tiny! Perfect<br />

companion to your<br />

standard shortboard or a<br />

brilliant all-rounder, the<br />

Frother has been by far our<br />

most popular model over<br />

the last year because it<br />

suits Cronulla’s beaches<br />

perfectly.<br />

Shaper: Ryan Bridges<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’11” x 19” x 2 3 /8”<br />

Suits: Good surfer, 75-80kg<br />

Ability: Intermediate to<br />

advanced surfers.<br />

Description: A super<br />

short shortboard designed<br />

to be ridden in a far<br />

greater range of both<br />

size and conditions than<br />

the Frother. The secret is<br />

both in the extended exit<br />

rocker and the pulled-in<br />

roundtail. They’ve been<br />

added to the package to<br />

help the board hold its rail<br />

better when tighter in the<br />

pocket, giving you more<br />

control and more rail to<br />

drive off, whilst still being<br />

super responsive because<br />

of its compact size.<br />

Shaper: Ryan Bridges<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’0” x 18 7 /8” x 2 5 /16”<br />

Suits: Good surfer, 75kg<br />

Ability: Intermediate to<br />

advanced surfers.<br />

Description: The result of<br />

our long quest to create a<br />

better beachbreak-oriented<br />

shortboard. Ridden<br />

around 1-2” shorter and<br />

¼” - 3 /8” wider than your<br />

traditional shortboard. A<br />

more compact package at<br />

home both in the pocket<br />

and above the lip. The<br />

foam has been centered<br />

under your feet and chest<br />

for control. The entry has<br />

essentially been shortened<br />

whilst its exit has been<br />

wound up a gear. This is<br />

the latest installment in<br />

the evolution of the high<br />

performance shortboard<br />

and reflects the boards<br />

being ridden by the world’s<br />

best surfers today.<br />

Shaper: Ryan Bridges<br />

Dimensions:<br />

Generous amount of<br />

volume for an average sized<br />

surfer. 5’8” x 20 ¼” x 2 ½”<br />

Suits: A fun board for<br />

everyone!<br />

Description: A shorter,<br />

thicker version of<br />

the popular StingRay<br />

model. Designed for<br />

smaller, weaker summer<br />

conditions. The rocker<br />

and volume distribution<br />

have been adjusted to<br />

create a more dynamic<br />

package and the outline<br />

has been condensed to<br />

create a tighter arc whilst<br />

introducing straighter<br />

sections between the feet<br />

to increase drive. It’s a<br />

truly modern take on the<br />

age-old problem of a board<br />

that will get you keen to go<br />

surfing regardless of the<br />

conditions!<br />

Dimensions:<br />

Custom made for you.<br />

Above, 6’2” x 19 ½” x 2 5 /8”<br />

Ability: Learning on a<br />

foamy? This is your first<br />

fibreglass board.<br />

Description: Working<br />

closely with Cronulla<br />

Surfing Academy<br />

we identified a need<br />

for a better stepping<br />

stone to progress from<br />

beginner equipment to a<br />

shortboard. This provides<br />

a perfect balance of the<br />

performance benefits of<br />

a shortboard-style outline<br />

with the ease of paddle<br />

and balance of more<br />

introductory equipment.<br />

RBSHAPES : HAND MADE : IN CRONULLA<br />

Force9 Surfboards, 43 Captain Cook Dr, Caringbah, 2229 Phone: 0432 154 740 Email: bridgy@rbshapes.com.au www.rbshapes.com.au<br />

158 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

SWINE FLU<br />

MINI SIMMONS DELUXE<br />

THE WIZZ<br />

DUMPSTER-ISH<br />

RASTA TWIN FISH<br />

Shaper: Jesse Watson<br />

Dimensions:<br />

9’6” x 23” x 3 1 /8”<br />

Ideal conditions: Up to<br />

head high sliders<br />

Suits: Hepcats to kooks,<br />

kicks flicks and hanging<br />

heels.<br />

Description: Traditional<br />

pig-inspired modern sled,<br />

but with modernised<br />

rockers and foils for the<br />

logger who wants to<br />

noseglide and whipturn<br />

like it aint no thang.<br />

Construction: 6/4oz deck<br />

+ 6/4oz bottom resin tints,<br />

60’s comp stripe and a full<br />

gloss and polish.<br />

Fins: Black Apache<br />

revised D-fin<br />

Shaper comment: This<br />

one is a modern sled<br />

for the discerning kook,<br />

traditional in looks - but a<br />

real hotrod under your feet.<br />

It’ll flash you a smile and<br />

then punch you in the face.<br />

Shaper: Jesse Watson<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’4” x 21 ½” x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal conditions: Up to<br />

head high sliders<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Whatever you wanna try.<br />

I ride mine from the goldy<br />

to indo.<br />

Suits: Ricky-Bobby<br />

(Talledega Nights) “I just<br />

wanna go fast!”<br />

Description: Fast... so<br />

fast it’ll peel your eyes<br />

outta their sockets. Super<br />

wide and stable, this<br />

board has been dubbed<br />

the “section connection.”<br />

You’ll get the fastest,<br />

longest rides of your life<br />

on the Simmons.<br />

Construction: 6/4oz<br />

deck + 6oz bottom, full<br />

resin art stripes gloss and<br />

polish, glass on leash loop<br />

- proper old skool.<br />

Fins: Matching,<br />

custom tint glass-ons.<br />

Shaper comment: Are<br />

you feeling uninspired with<br />

your surfing, a little bored or<br />

dull? The Simmons will put<br />

the fun back into your life.<br />

Just in time for summer.<br />

Shaper: Peter Sheely<br />

Length: 5” - 7”<br />

Width: 21”- 22”<br />

Thickness: 2 ¾”- 3 ¼ ”<br />

Ideal conditions: Beach<br />

and point breaks.<br />

Suits: Anyone who wants<br />

to have fun, it’s a fun<br />

board that suits most<br />

surfers from beginners to<br />

experts.<br />

Description: Fun<br />

surfboard for all around<br />

conditions.<br />

Construction: Choice of<br />

stringers, colours, tints,<br />

pigment, or sprays. 4oz<br />

or 6oz normal glass - you<br />

choose!<br />

Fins: Quad, tri-fin or<br />

single fin.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Small, flexible fun board<br />

with 70s/80s design<br />

using modern technology.<br />

Shaper: Steve Barber<br />

Specs: 5’10” x 19 5 /8“ x 2 5 /16“<br />

Ideal: Everyday surf<br />

Suits: The surfer looking<br />

for a fun, small board. They<br />

average 5’5” to 5’9” and<br />

can be easily scaled up in<br />

size for the heavier surfer.<br />

Ability: Average through<br />

to punt masters.<br />

Description: Flat rocker<br />

allowed by the centre<br />

width, so great paddler.<br />

Construction: Still the best<br />

way. i.e. Polyurethane...<br />

Burford blank with Silmar<br />

resin and Surf 9 4oz glass.<br />

Fins: Customers choice of<br />

brand of removable fins.<br />

Shaper comment: A<br />

great little all round<br />

Dumpster Diver-style<br />

board for all sorts of<br />

conditions. Can be single<br />

into double concave,<br />

single concave, concave<br />

to vee or simple rolled<br />

vee... And any tail shape.<br />

Shaper: Steve Barber<br />

Specs: 5’11” x 20 5 /8“ x 2 3 /8“<br />

Ideal: Designed for slop<br />

but also loves hollow,<br />

A-frame beachies<br />

Suits: Anyone wanting a<br />

summer board!<br />

Ability: Anyone - even Kelly!<br />

Description: Late nose<br />

tweak for not catching in<br />

hollow waves. Flat entry<br />

and exit for speed. Single<br />

to double concave with<br />

tail vee.<br />

Construction: Still the best<br />

way. i.e. Polyurethane...<br />

Burford blank with Silmar<br />

resin and Surf 9 4oz glass.<br />

Fins: Usually glass ons<br />

Shaper comment: This<br />

model has normal rails<br />

with a chamfer to the flat<br />

deck, giving it the ability<br />

to hold in on hollow<br />

waves as the rails are<br />

able to penetrate, but the<br />

flat, high-volume deck<br />

won’t allow bogging in<br />

summer slop.<br />

black apache surfboards<br />

BLACK APACHE<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0410 419 791<br />

blackapachesurfboards@live.com.au<br />

blackapachesurfboards.com.au<br />

black apache surfboards<br />

BLACK APACHE<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0410 419 791<br />

blackapachesurfboards@live.com.au<br />

blackapachesurfboards.com.au<br />

PETER SHEELY<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 02 4957 3161<br />

Mob: 0417 264 739<br />

peter@sheelysurfboards.com<br />

sheelysurfboards.com<br />

STEVE BARBER/FULL FORCE<br />

18/48 Machinery Drive<br />

Tweed Heads South<br />

Ph: 07 5524 2933<br />

fullforcesurf@hotmail.com<br />

Join us on Facebook<br />

STEVE BARBER/FULL FORCE<br />

18/48 Machinery Drive<br />

Tweed Heads South<br />

Ph: 07 5524 2933<br />

fullforcesurf@hotmail.com<br />

Join us on Facebook<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

159


“Totally fell in<br />

love with it and<br />

it became an<br />

absolute passion.”<br />

A SALT-ENCRUSTED JOURNEY<br />

Meet South Australian shaper, Bronte Bampton of Liquid Stix Surfboards. WORDS: DAVE SWAN<br />

Bronte Bampton, shaper of Liquid Stix Surfboards<br />

in South Australia, gives us an honest, matter of fact<br />

account of where his shaping is today as only surfers<br />

from these parts can: No time for grandstanding, just<br />

straight to the point.<br />

“Salt in the blood, from a young surfer to a<br />

commercial fisherman working 20 years mostly on the<br />

west coast of South Australia, 600km from Adelaide,<br />

that’s me. Took up shaping six years ago, after having<br />

made some boards in late 60s and early 70s.<br />

“Totally fell in love with it and it became an absolute<br />

passion. There were lots of ups and downs in the<br />

early stages, especially when I was fishing and<br />

trying to make boards at the same time. But with<br />

lots of patience and small steps, the boards began to<br />

improve in all areas.<br />

“The west coast is such a great proving area for<br />

surfboard design with such a great variety of waves<br />

in one area.”<br />

Bronte’s son, Chris was his first board tester and his<br />

harshest critic, as only sons can be. But as Bronte<br />

explains it, his son’s tough, honest feedback enabled<br />

him to get his shortboards working really well.<br />

Another young surfer helped develop the Liquid Stix<br />

quad, the Skipjack, a board that has proven to be a<br />

really good seller. Bronte himself is the shaper-comegear-tester,<br />

along with South African surfer Craig<br />

Potgieter, when it comes to his fishes and mals.<br />

PHOTO: Kingsley Smith<br />

Within a short period Bronte picked up quite a few<br />

team riders who were competing in local and interstate<br />

comps and what resulted was a lot of travelling<br />

backwards and forwards to Adelaide. When a steady<br />

stream of sales followed, it was time to take Liquid<br />

Stix Surfboards to the big smoke and as Bronte puts<br />

it, “stand up against the established shapers”.<br />

“We are still settling into the city. The transition<br />

from the pristine remoteness of the west coast to the<br />

city has been difficult. What was particularly trying<br />

initially was finding premises to work out of. I was<br />

working here and there, trying to get boards made<br />

and it wasn’t good. My delivery times blew out and a<br />

couple of boards were a bit off the pace.<br />

“I ended setting up my surfboard factory at the back<br />

of Cutloose’s premises in Lonsdale and the boys<br />

at Cutloose and Preece’s South Port Surf at Port<br />

Noarlunga South now handle all my custom orders.<br />

“I never thought in my wildest dreams I would go<br />

from a tin shed on a remote property to surf central in<br />

Adelaide with a number of team riders doing well on<br />

my boards. With my team riders, who are all pretty<br />

close to me now, the challenge is to make boards that<br />

not only perform well, but suit their individual surfing<br />

style. They are all such different surfers.”<br />

But honing boards to suit diverse surfing styles has<br />

developed Bronte’s skills towards tailor-making finely<br />

tuned custom craft for the everyday surfer.<br />

“As a surfboard shaper it’s so difficult to break into<br />

the marketplace. You are up against all the big names<br />

on the east coast and overseas. It’s about building<br />

confidence in your product. I find if I am in the wrong<br />

surroundings or mindset, my boards are crap. You<br />

have to be constantly thinking outside the square,<br />

making and testing new ideas.<br />

“I remember saying to someone if you’re not<br />

passionate about surfboards, I don’t see how you can<br />

make them. The Liquid Stix journey is only short<br />

but there is positive progress. It’s fun making boards,<br />

teaching surfing and surfing... living the dream.”<br />

For more about Liquid Stix, pop into Cutloose or Preece’s in South Australia, or visit the Liquid Stix website at www.liquidstix.com.au<br />

160 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

STANDARD MAL<br />

SKIP JACK<br />

FATHER AND SON<br />

FUNNAMATTA<br />

THE PEE WEE<br />

Shaper: Bronte Bampton<br />

Shaper: Bronte Bampton<br />

Shaper: Woody Jack<br />

Shaper: Rory Oke<br />

Shaper: Peter White<br />

Specs:<br />

9’1” x 22 ½” x 2 3 /8”- 3”<br />

Suits: 1-6 ft average to<br />

quality surf<br />

Description:<br />

Standard mal for all level<br />

surfers. Single concave<br />

with slight doubles through<br />

fins. Medium entry with<br />

average tail lift med/low<br />

rails.<br />

Construction:<br />

PU blank, FGI resins,<br />

Aerolite cloth.<br />

Stock: 6 x 6 x 6<br />

Fins: Fin box plus<br />

stabilisers – can be<br />

ordered in quad.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

This is our most<br />

popular mal which suits<br />

absolutely everyone<br />

whether you are a<br />

beginner or experienced.<br />

Specs: 6’0” x 19 ½” x 2 3 /8”<br />

Suits: Average to very<br />

experienced surfer<br />

Description: A good<br />

all-round board that adapts<br />

to most conditions. Great<br />

wave catcher, fast and very<br />

responsive. Single to deep<br />

double quad. Available in<br />

sizes from 5’ to 6’6”.<br />

Construction:<br />

PU foam, FGI polyester<br />

resins, Aerolite cloth.<br />

Fins: Quad.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

This board was tested<br />

on the West Coast of SA<br />

and the prototype was<br />

ridden in 1ft mush to 5ft+<br />

quality surf. It just kept<br />

performing extremely<br />

well in all conditions.<br />

This would have to be<br />

one of my best selling<br />

boards, each new owner<br />

gives it the thumbs up<br />

and great reviews.<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’9” x 21 ½“ x 2 5 /8 “<br />

Suits: Smaller waves<br />

Ability: From 3 year old<br />

beginners to advanced<br />

surfers<br />

Description: Slight single<br />

to double concave.with<br />

wider nose and tail - an<br />

area short board designed<br />

for my 3 ½ year old son.<br />

Construction:<br />

Burford blank glassed<br />

with Surf 9 fiberglass and<br />

Silmar resin<br />

Fins: FCS FK2<br />

Shaper comment: This<br />

board is all about area and<br />

stability, but with all the<br />

elements of a performance<br />

board (so that I can get a<br />

few on the smaller days<br />

after the little fellas done.)<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’2” x 19 ¼” x 2 3 / 8”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Sucky beachies<br />

Suits: Everyone<br />

Description: Super-deep<br />

double concave. Heaps of<br />

tail kick.<br />

Construction: Ocean<br />

Foam blank, hand-shaped.<br />

Fins: 5 fin setup.<br />

Speeedfins ceramic series.<br />

Shaper comment: Team<br />

rider Meatballs’ take on a<br />

Nathan Fletcher/Stretch<br />

design. Created for skateinspired<br />

surfing.<br />

Glasser: Brett White<br />

Finishing: Ricky<br />

Length: 6ft - 7’6”<br />

Thickness: 2” - 2 ½”<br />

Width: 18 ½” - 19 ½”<br />

Ideal: Small to sizeable.<br />

Beach break - Points -<br />

Reef break.<br />

Description: This board is<br />

a scaled down model of a<br />

proper 9ft board (not just a<br />

mini mal). Generally made<br />

as a custom to suit the size<br />

and weight of the young<br />

rider who use them.<br />

Construction: PU Foam.<br />

6mm stringer. 6oz bottom, 6<br />

+ 4oz deck.<br />

Fins: 2 + 1 or thruster fins.<br />

Shaper comment: This<br />

is a true nose-rider for the<br />

grommets out there who<br />

want to nose-ride and walk<br />

the board like their dad’s<br />

(usually better)!<br />

LIQUID STIX<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Moana, South Australia<br />

Ph: 0407 606 685<br />

E: liquidstix@bigpond.com<br />

www.liquidstix.com.au<br />

Available @ MCS & Preece’s<br />

LIQUID STIX<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Moana, South Australia<br />

Ph: 0407 606 685<br />

E: liquidstix@bigpond.com<br />

www.liquidstix.com.au<br />

Available @ MCS & Preece’s<br />

WOODY JACK<br />

SURFBOARDS AUSTRALIA<br />

Unit 7, 25 Leonard Parade,<br />

Currumbin QLD<br />

Ph: 0415 789 706<br />

E: wjboards@gmail.com<br />

www.woodyjack.com<br />

OKE SURFBOARDS<br />

1/1-7 Canterbury Rd,<br />

Braeside, VIC, 3195<br />

Ph: 03 9587 3553<br />

okesurfboards.com<br />

CLASSIC MALIBU<br />

Cnr Gibson & Eumundi Rd<br />

Noosaville, QLD 4566<br />

Ph: 07 5474 3122<br />

info@classicmalibu.com<br />

www.classicmalibu.com<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

161


BG SHORTBOARD<br />

BD FISH<br />

EARLY 90s STYLE<br />

THRUSTER<br />

9’8 NOSERIDER<br />

FIVE FOOTER<br />

Shaper: Greg Hogan<br />

Length: 6’1” - 7’6”<br />

Width: 19 ½” - 21”<br />

Thickness: 2 ½” - 3”<br />

Description: Perfect<br />

for the intermediate,<br />

heavier or older surfer<br />

who still wants to surf<br />

a shortboard. A fuller<br />

outline and more nose<br />

area, combined with<br />

a round tail make this<br />

board very easy to<br />

paddle, yet keeps the<br />

performance feel. Also<br />

perfect for the next step<br />

from your first board!<br />

Construction: Handshaped<br />

PU blank, 6 and<br />

4oz deck, 6 or 4oz bottom.<br />

Fins: FCS or Futures in a<br />

thruster setup.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

I really try to set the<br />

dimensions to suit each<br />

individual rider, but this<br />

extension of my standard<br />

performance shortboard<br />

definitely has the same<br />

feel. It can seem like<br />

you’re riding something<br />

a lot smaller than it<br />

actually is.<br />

Shaper: Glyndyn Ringrose<br />

Length: 5’6” - 6’6”<br />

Width: 19” - 21 ½"<br />

Thickness: 2 ¼” - 2 ¾"<br />

Description: A<br />

loose and skatey<br />

feel underfoot, this<br />

performance fish works<br />

well in small to medium<br />

sized surf. A rounder<br />

outline and bottom curve<br />

combined with single/<br />

double concave and a<br />

diamond tail adds up to a<br />

whole lot of summer fun!<br />

Construction: Handshaped<br />

PU blank, 6 and<br />

4oz deck, 4oz bottom.<br />

Fins: FCS or Futures in a<br />

thruster or quad setup.<br />

Shaper comment: Fast<br />

becoming one of our<br />

most popular designs,<br />

especially leading into<br />

the summer months.<br />

As always, the custom<br />

option allows you to<br />

tweak specifications to<br />

suit your needs.<br />

Shaper: Jordie Brown<br />

Specs: 6’3” x 19 ¼” x<br />

12½” x 13 ¾” x 2 5 / 8 ”<br />

Ideal: Anything with a bit<br />

of juice.<br />

Suits: The surfer looking<br />

for an alternative to<br />

your standard thruster<br />

shortboard in progressive<br />

waves.<br />

Description: Based on<br />

90s-style thrusters, with<br />

low rocker and plenty of<br />

volume.<br />

Construction: Light<br />

6oz/40z trimmed lap<br />

glass-job, lime green<br />

resin tint and a full gloss<br />

coat with wet rubbed<br />

finish.<br />

Fins: Handmade glass-on<br />

thruster.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

This is one of the most<br />

exciting sticks in my<br />

quiver when the waves<br />

are on, really!<br />

Shaper: Jordie Brown<br />

Board dimensions:<br />

9’8” x 23 ¼” x 19” x 16” x 3 ”<br />

Ideal: Waist to shoulder<br />

high peelers.<br />

Suits: Any surfer after<br />

a stable nose rider that<br />

surfs.<br />

Description: The<br />

combination of subtle<br />

tail lift, wide, Californian<br />

square tail, rolled vee<br />

bottom and full 50/50<br />

rails makes this noserider<br />

design surprisingly<br />

manoeuvrable without<br />

losing any stability<br />

trimming and on the<br />

nose.<br />

Construction: Heavy<br />

tinted glass job with 2’’<br />

solid paulownia stringer.<br />

Fins: 10’’ pivot fin.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Based on the heavier<br />

old school style of<br />

construction of the<br />

mid-sixties, this noserider<br />

is the perfect board for<br />

the surfer wanting to<br />

experience the glide and<br />

movement of a era past.<br />

Shaper: Jordie Brown<br />

Board dimensions:<br />

5’0” x 21¾” x 17” x 17” x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal: Longboard waves.<br />

Suits: The surfer looking<br />

for a shortboard for<br />

grovelly waves.<br />

Description: Short flat<br />

and fast!<br />

Construction:<br />

Light 6oz/4oz trimmed lap<br />

glass-job<br />

Fins: Handmade timber<br />

twin keels.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

The most surfed board in<br />

my quiver!<br />

ISLAND SURFBOARDS<br />

147 Thompson Ave,<br />

Cowes, Phillip Island VIC<br />

Ph: 03 5952 2578<br />

E: cowes@<br />

islandsurfboards.com.au<br />

islandsurfboards.com.au<br />

ISLAND SURFBOARDS<br />

147 Thompson Ave,<br />

Cowes, Phillip Island VIC<br />

Ph: 03 5952 2578<br />

E: cowes@<br />

islandsurfboards.com.au<br />

islandsurfboards.com.au<br />

HIGH TIDE<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Skenes Creek, Vic 3233<br />

Ph: 0401 437 392<br />

hightidesurfboards@hotmail.com<br />

hightidesurfboards.com<br />

HIGH TIDE<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Skenes Creek, Vic 3233<br />

Ph: 0401 437 392<br />

hightidesurfboards@hotmail.com<br />

hightidesurfboards.com<br />

HIGH TIDE<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Skenes Creek, Vic 3233<br />

Ph: 0401 437 392<br />

hightidesurfboards@hotmail.com<br />

hightidesurfboards.com<br />

162 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


THE RODENT<br />

Shaper: Scott Newman<br />

Specs: 4’8” x 22 ¼” X 2 ½”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Small to chest high.<br />

Suits: Anyone that wants<br />

to have fun and go fast!<br />

Description: Small, wide<br />

and fast. Deep single<br />

concave, medium rail, flat<br />

and fun. A great board for<br />

the open-minded surfer.<br />

Construction:<br />

Foam and fibreglass<br />

Fins: Future K2 twin fins<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

One of the fastest,<br />

funnest boards I’ve ridden<br />

in a while. Definitely<br />

my favourite board this<br />

summer.<br />

MAIN: Jeames Young gets airborne. LEFT: Goofy footer Scott Newman gives the<br />

Rodent a spin. RIGHT: Dean Chelin has a float about PHOTOS: Jarrason Bitton GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

SLS SURFBOARDS<br />

2/57 George St,<br />

Moffat Beach, QLD 4551<br />

Ph: Scott 0424 314 183<br />

slssurfboards.com.au<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

163


95 PORNO SERIES<br />

LAGUNA BAY SUP<br />

BAMBOO WARRIOR<br />

BAMBOO SUP<br />

FISH SOFT BOARD<br />

Shaper:<br />

Glenn ‘Cat’ Collins<br />

Shaping experience:<br />

About six weeks<br />

Boards made:<br />

Don’t count<br />

Description:<br />

This was made for<br />

right-handers, BUT to my<br />

surprise I have had some<br />

great lefts on it...<br />

A challenge:<br />

To Ralph Riddell...<br />

I challenge you to a shape<br />

off. One freak functional<br />

and one non functional.<br />

To be ready by next<br />

summer and exposed in<br />

smorgasboarder.<br />

Rules: Boards have to<br />

be made after this issue.<br />

No ‘this is one I prepared<br />

earlier’ crap. Anyone else<br />

is free to challenge.<br />

To the winner: Morning<br />

glory, a mag of the same<br />

description and a packet<br />

of xtra-light alpine ciggies.<br />

Shaper: Tully St.John<br />

Size: 7ft to 11ft<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Small to medium size surf<br />

Ability level:<br />

Intermediate to advanced<br />

Suits: All shapes and sizes<br />

Description:<br />

Performance SUP<br />

Construction: Epoxy.<br />

Inegra carbon sandwich.<br />

Fin set-up: 2+1 or 4+1<br />

Shaper comment: This<br />

is my newest performance<br />

model. The well-perfected<br />

bottom rocker and hotted<br />

up bottom contours create<br />

a supa fast responsive sup.<br />

I customise this model<br />

and hand make each one,<br />

with my well-groomed<br />

team in our Noosa factory.<br />

So if you’re looking to up<br />

the performance level and<br />

create something special,<br />

give us a call or email.<br />

Designer: Mark Proberts<br />

Dimensions:<br />

10’ x 30” x 4 ½”<br />

Ideal: For up to 100kg<br />

riders, in waves up to 6Ft.<br />

Description: This is a<br />

quad fin fish Stand Up<br />

Paddle Board, with a<br />

back fin box. You have<br />

the choice to ride it as a<br />

thruster or a quad.<br />

Designed specifically for<br />

the surf, it is a great board<br />

for surfers who want to<br />

start riding waves on a<br />

SUP. It rides the same as<br />

most fish surfboards - fast<br />

through the flat sections<br />

and turns on a dime.<br />

Construction: High<br />

density EPS Core, 6mm<br />

wood stringer. Top: 2 x 6oz<br />

glass deck + 2 bamboo<br />

layers. Bottom: 2 x 6oz<br />

glass + 1 bamboo layer.<br />

Fins: 10” centre box + 4<br />

FCS quad fins set up.<br />

Designer comment: This<br />

is the type of board that<br />

suits most conditions with<br />

the single into double<br />

concave, and will leave a<br />

big smile on your dial.<br />

Designer: Mark Proberts<br />

Dimensions:<br />

10’6” x 31” x 4 ½”<br />

Ideal: For everyone. Great<br />

all rounder, flat water and<br />

surf up to 3Ft.<br />

Description: This is a<br />

3 fin set up Stand Up<br />

Paddle Board. 10” back fin<br />

box with 2 FCS side fins.<br />

This is our biggest seller.<br />

Perfect first SUP board.<br />

Double concave keeps it<br />

paddling straight. Vee in<br />

the pin tail makes for easy<br />

turns.<br />

Construction: High<br />

density EPS Core, 6mm<br />

wood stringer. Top: 2<br />

x 6oz glass deck + 1<br />

bamboo layer. Bottom: 2 x<br />

6oz glass.<br />

Fins: 10” centre box + 2<br />

FCS side fins.<br />

Designer comment:<br />

This is our best design yet<br />

for an all rounder board.<br />

It comes in 11’, 10’6, 10’<br />

and 9’6 to suit everyone.<br />

Will leave a big smile on<br />

your dial.<br />

Designer: Mark Proberts<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’10” x 20” x 2 ½”<br />

Ideal: For fun beach<br />

breaks. Can be ridden<br />

within the flags.<br />

Suits: Most kids learning<br />

to surf, up to adults just<br />

mucking around.<br />

Description: This is a<br />

fish style soft surfboard.<br />

Fast and easy to turn.<br />

Construction: EPS Core,<br />

double wood stringer.<br />

HDPE bottom (speed<br />

skin). Deep fish tail. Heat<br />

laminated.<br />

Fins: Twin fin. Plastic,<br />

screw in.<br />

Designer comment:<br />

This is a great board for<br />

surf schools, kids or adults<br />

to have fun on. It also<br />

comes with EVA rail for<br />

extra heavy duty use.<br />

Surfboards and surfing<br />

props for movies and ads<br />

SURF1770NOOSA.COM<br />

surf1770@bigpond.com<br />

surf1770noosa.com<br />

NOOSA SURFWORKS<br />

11 Bartlett St,<br />

Noosaville QLD<br />

Ph: 07 5474 4567<br />

E: info@noosasurfworks.com.au<br />

noosasurfworks.com.au<br />

SUN JAM AUSTRALIA<br />

Po Box 1469,<br />

Cronulla NSW 2230<br />

Ph: 0435 754 800<br />

info@sunjampaddleboards.com.au<br />

sunjampaddleboards.com.au<br />

SUN JAM AUSTRALIA<br />

Po Box 1469,<br />

Cronulla NSW 2230<br />

Ph: 0435 754 800<br />

info@sunjampaddleboards.com.au<br />

sunjampaddleboards.com.au<br />

SUN JAM AUSTRALIA<br />

Po Box 1469,<br />

Cronulla NSW 2230<br />

Ph: 0435 754 800<br />

info@sunjampaddleboards.com.au<br />

sunjampaddleboards.com.au<br />

164 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

PERFORMER<br />

Shaper: Mark Riley<br />

Length:9’0’’ - 9’4’’<br />

Width: 22 1/4’’ - 23’<br />

Thickness: 2 1/2’’ - 3’’’<br />

Ideal conditions: ½ - 5 ft<br />

Ability: Intermediate<br />

Description: Recycled<br />

EPS foam core and<br />

2-3mm balsawood skin,<br />

weighing only 7-8 kg.<br />

Features triple stringer,<br />

30mm apart, a Vee<br />

bottom with a rounded<br />

square tail. The rails are<br />

70/30 on the nose, 80/20<br />

in the centre and 90/10 in<br />

the tail.<br />

Construction: Balsa with<br />

EPS foam core.<br />

Fins: Single box fin and<br />

two smaller stabiliser fins.<br />

Shaper comment: The<br />

Performer combines<br />

the best of both worlds,<br />

designed and shaped for<br />

today’s high performance<br />

longboarding.<br />

Riley surfboards are<br />

made in Australia, have<br />

a 12-month warranty<br />

and are Micro-tagged<br />

to prevent theft. Custom<br />

orders are welcome.<br />

FLYING FISH<br />

Shaper: Mark Riley<br />

Length: 5’5’’ - 6’2’’<br />

Width: 19 ½’’ - 21 ½’’<br />

Thickness: 2 ½” - 3’’<br />

Ideal conditions: ½ - 5 ft<br />

Ability level: Advanced<br />

to experienced<br />

Description: An EPS<br />

foam core performance<br />

fish which features<br />

stringerless flex and<br />

memory return. Can<br />

turn on a dime and drive<br />

when required. The 2 ½’’<br />

thickness of the board<br />

under the chest area<br />

makes this board a great<br />

wave catcher. It’s flat<br />

from nose to centre with<br />

a double scoop concave<br />

at the swallow tail.<br />

Construction: Balsa with<br />

EPS foam core.<br />

Fins: Your choice of twin,<br />

keels or quad.<br />

Customer’s comment:<br />

“Love this. It has become<br />

my favourite board” Tom,<br />

Southern NSW<br />

Riley surfboards are<br />

made in Australia, have<br />

a 12-month warranty<br />

and are Micro-tagged<br />

to prevent theft. Custom<br />

orders are welcome.<br />

THE STICK<br />

Shaper: Mark Riley<br />

Length: 5’2’’ - 6’8’’<br />

Width: 18 1/2’’-20’’<br />

Thickness: 2 1/2’’ -3’’<br />

Ideal conditions: ½ - 9 ft<br />

Ability level: Advanced<br />

to experienced<br />

Description: A balsa<br />

skinned EPS foam core<br />

shortboard. No stringer<br />

and recycled EPS foam<br />

reduces weight, bringing<br />

the Stick to around 3kg.<br />

Features a Vee scoop in<br />

the tail to concave centre<br />

and concave nose, 80/20<br />

rails and a swallow tail.<br />

Construction: Balsa with<br />

EPS foam core<br />

Fins: Thruster or quad<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

For summer’s small to<br />

medium waves, the Riley<br />

Stick is also available as<br />

a quad - way faster than<br />

your standard thruster or<br />

even twin fin and much<br />

more responsive.<br />

Riley surfboards are<br />

environmentally friendly<br />

and three times stronger<br />

than a regular PU board.<br />

THE NATIVE<br />

Shaper: Mark Riley<br />

Dimensions: 5’2’’- 6’8’’ x<br />

18 ½’’- 20’’ x 2 ½ - 3’’<br />

Ideal conditions: ½ - 6 ft<br />

Ability level: Beginners<br />

to mature<br />

Description: A balsa<br />

skinned EPS foam core<br />

shortboard. The recycled<br />

EPS foam and the absence<br />

of a stringer create a<br />

significant reduction in<br />

weight bringing The Native<br />

to merely 3kg (excluding<br />

fins). The result is a high<br />

performance surfboard with<br />

far greater strength and<br />

durability than your regular<br />

polyurethane board.<br />

Construction: Balsa with<br />

EPS foam core<br />

Fins: Thruster or quad<br />

Shaper comment: For<br />

summer and its small<br />

waves, The Native is a<br />

thruster thrasher for the<br />

larger or older generation<br />

who don’t want to go to a<br />

longboard or a fish – this is<br />

in between these.<br />

THE MARLIN<br />

Shaper: Mark Riley<br />

Dimensions: 5’0’’- 6’8’’ x<br />

19 ½’’- 21 ½’’ x 2 ½ - 3’’<br />

Ideal conditions: ½ - 5 ft<br />

Ability level: Advanced<br />

to experienced<br />

Description: The Marlin<br />

is a EPS foam core<br />

performance fish which<br />

features our unparallel<br />

stringers. During turns,<br />

these drive the energy<br />

to the tail of the board<br />

for clean, crisp, powerful<br />

carves. The 2 ½’’<br />

thickness of the board<br />

under the chest area<br />

makes this board a great<br />

wave catcher.<br />

Construction: Balsa with<br />

EPS foam core<br />

Fins: Your choice of twin,<br />

keels or quad<br />

Shaper comment: The<br />

Marlin is as light as a<br />

regular polyurethane fish.<br />

It’s easy to paddle making<br />

it easy to catch waves,<br />

and the swallow tail really<br />

helps you in sharp turns.<br />

RILEY SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0412 376 464<br />

E: mark@riley.com.au<br />

balsasurfboardsriley.com.au<br />

RILEY SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0412 376 464<br />

E: mark@riley.com.au<br />

balsasurfboardsriley.com.au<br />

RILEY SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0412 376 464<br />

E: mark@riley.com.au<br />

balsasurfboardsriley.com.au<br />

RILEY SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0412 376 464<br />

E: mark@riley.com.au<br />

balsasurfboardsriley.com.au<br />

RILEY SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0412 376 464<br />

E: mark@riley.com.au<br />

balsasurfboardsriley.com.au<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

165


166 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


BOARDS WITH WHEELS<br />

IT’S NEVER TOO EARLY<br />

WHEN YOU SPEAK TO AUSTIN MONCRIEFF OF EARLY<br />

SKATEBOARDS ABOUT SKATING, THE FIRST WORDS OUT<br />

OF HIS MOUTH, WITHOUT FAIL, WILL BE ABOUT SAFETY.<br />

“Safety first, for sure. Especially with downhill. Cruising at the beach<br />

you might not need slide gloves, a helmet and kneepads, but going<br />

downhill you can’t just jump off and run.”<br />

But it’s not just talk. The Early team live it, and are only too happy<br />

to educate kids and others new to skating about the dangers of<br />

not wearing the right protective gear. Recently, Austin, along with<br />

Early artist Tommy Franklin and team rider Flavio Biehl, visited<br />

Nimbin Central School to share their stories and advice.<br />

THIS IS YOUR MELON...<br />

1.<br />

Early Skateboards and Trinity Distribution<br />

hooked us up with safety gear to demonstrate<br />

what happens when you don’t armour up...<br />

2.<br />

3.<br />

WITH HELMET = OK<br />

4.<br />

5.<br />

Watching a video of Flavio taking a fall without a helmet a few<br />

years ago, the kids got to see the immediate impact of a head<br />

injury: Flavio dazed and confused, struggling to remember anything<br />

for the next hour.<br />

“If you’re gonna start skating, you need to think about safety.”<br />

Austin says. “If you want to try it out and can’t afford to buy a<br />

helmet, slide gloves and kneepads, make sure you borrow it off<br />

a friend.<br />

As far as slide gloves go, Austin suggests even making your own,<br />

rather than risking injury.<br />

“It’s not expensive to make. Go to your local hardware store, pick<br />

up some leather gardening gloves - the more fitted, the better.<br />

Get contact adhesive and perspex cutting board. Cut the board<br />

to the shape of your palm - a circle or square - whatever’s most<br />

comfortable for you. Use the adhesive to glue it to the glove.<br />

That’s how we started doing it.”<br />

The message seems to be getting out there as Austin says that<br />

downhill riders seen not wearing helmets are most definitely<br />

frowned upon.<br />

What better way to test<br />

melon protection than with a<br />

ripe, ready-to-eat rockmelon?<br />

Put it inbetween a couple of<br />

helmets, fling it really high<br />

in the air and watch it smack<br />

down onto the bitumen...<br />

On opening up our little<br />

package, we were over<br />

the moon to find that there<br />

was absolutely no damage<br />

whatsoever to our lunch and<br />

that the helmets themselves<br />

were intact, with only a few<br />

scratches to show for it.<br />

When we repeated the<br />

experiment without the<br />

helmets protecting the melon,<br />

the result on impact was very,<br />

very different...<br />

While your head is a little<br />

tougher than a rockmelon, it’s<br />

good to put it in perspective<br />

- protection is better than no<br />

protection. Do it.<br />

6.<br />

WITHOUT<br />

HELMET!<br />

Ankle brace... A<br />

good option for those<br />

who like to walk.<br />

There are more school workshops planned so if you would like the<br />

Early team to visit your school, get in touch with them at www.<br />

earlyskateboards.com and check out the following Early videos:<br />

Why you should wear a helmet skateboarding<br />

www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNvgLfWUYAo<br />

Nimbin Skate Safety Day<br />

www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjcqohNY6Ew<br />

S-ONE helmet (blue - through<br />

Trinity) Comfy as hell, with a<br />

soft, sweat-sucking inliner.<br />

RRP $59.95 www.s-one.com<br />

NOODLES helmet (black, Early)<br />

Solid snowboard crossover<br />

with cool details like a chin<br />

strap protector and removable<br />

ear warmers RRP $59.95<br />

earlyskateboards.com<br />

TRINTY pads. Awesome value.<br />

Sizes XS – XL. RRP $49.95<br />

trinitydistribution.com.au<br />

Wristguards, knee<br />

and elbow pads make<br />

up the Trinity pack<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

167


168 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


SIX WHEELS OF<br />

SEPARATION<br />

Getting sideways is part of the fun when you’re on a traditional<br />

downhill skateboard. It’s not just about looking cool – it’s an<br />

important part of controlling your board, controlling your speed,<br />

slowing you down... So, it would be plain insane to have an<br />

extra set wheels under your deck to actually make you roll<br />

sideways. Insane? Yes. Unbelieveably exciting? Oh yes…<br />

Here’s what separates the Freebord from any other out there.<br />

WORDS: MARK CHAPMAN<br />

GEAR: SKATE<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

169


GEAR: SKATE<br />

LEFT: The “ Evolution Wall” shows the<br />

development of the Freebord from the<br />

earliest tests to the first final which Steen<br />

Strand patented in 1998 - the “Alpha”<br />

Freebords in 1998 which he began selling out<br />

of his garage in San Francisco.<br />

San Francisco is where Steen, the<br />

inventor, was living at the time. It’s also<br />

world-renowned for its hills, which is<br />

what this board was made for.”<br />

John Laudin<br />

Production Manager at Freebord<br />

"TO CARVE AND SLIDE IN AN INTEGRATED MOTION LIKE A SNOWBOARD DOES,<br />

Take a traditional skateboard. Take a traditional<br />

snowboard. Try and make them one and the<br />

same. Add bindings, a helmet, a touch of<br />

courage and the willingness to do a few spins<br />

on the concrete and you’re well on your way to<br />

experiencing one of the most fun rides ever on<br />

an exciting new discovery for us – the Freebord.<br />

Now, the interesting thing about new<br />

discoveries is that often they’re not new at all.<br />

While the Freebord was an amazing slap in<br />

the face for me only a few short months ago,<br />

it’s been under development and growing in<br />

underground popularity for over 15 years now.<br />

Rewind to 1996, when a University student in<br />

Palo Alto, California started out on a project to<br />

recreate the feel of a snowboard on the street.<br />

Steen Strand, inventor of the Freebord chose<br />

this idea of a skateboard that could drift and<br />

slide as you would in the snow as the subject of<br />

his thesis for a Masters in Product Design.<br />

After graduating, Steen decided to keep at it.<br />

With any new idea in development, there were<br />

countless hours of experimentation as Steen<br />

worked hard out of a garage. The original idea<br />

for the rotating 360 degree wheel came from<br />

Steen watching a rider dig in an edge during a<br />

manouvre.<br />

“I built two cam centre wheels and mounted<br />

them on a test deck that I had already used for<br />

earlier prototypes - it probably had a hundred<br />

holes drilled into it from trying different things.”<br />

he explains on the Freebord website.<br />

Combination upon combination of trucks and<br />

rotating wheels ultimately lead to the core<br />

design - a rotating centre wheel with some<br />

directional bias which allows for the sideways<br />

motion and extra wide trucks which allow for<br />

the unique style of board control.<br />

“In order to carve and slide in an integrated<br />

motion like a snowboard does, you have to have<br />

the ability to move laterally onto the street,”<br />

170 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


YOU HAVE TO HAVE THE ABILITY TO MOVE LATERALLY ONTO THE STREET"<br />

team rider Mike Hoppe explains.<br />

“You have these centre wheels that allow you<br />

to slide. These will basically turn in whichever<br />

direction you’re going and the outside wheels<br />

act like your edges. You actually rock back and<br />

forth over the centre wheel onto each edge.”<br />

The ride can pretty much be explained as<br />

follows: When a rider weights one side of the<br />

board (heelside or toeside), the opposite set<br />

of edge wheels are off of the ground and the<br />

board can then begin to slide in that direction.<br />

The weighted wheels will drag along the<br />

pavement, slowing the rider’s speed. As a<br />

result, riders can use slides to slow down or<br />

stop, to navigate tight terrain and to spin or drift<br />

between carves.<br />

“It took me quite a while to get the hang of the<br />

Freebord,” says Mike. “It is a little bit tricky –<br />

there’s a steep learning curve, so the main advice<br />

that I would give to a new rider is to find other<br />

Freeborders in your area. See it being ridden,<br />

have them give you pointers on what to do, what<br />

to look out for, how to set up your board.”<br />

Finding Freeborders in your local area seems to<br />

be becoming easier. From humble beginnings<br />

on the hills of San Fransisco, well known to<br />

have some of the steepest streets in California,<br />

the Freebording movement has steadily gained<br />

momentum with riders across the planet. All<br />

you have to do is check out the video section<br />

on the Freebord website to see all the locations<br />

across the globe where the boards are being<br />

put to good use, yet it’s far from a household<br />

name, which is exactly how it’s supposed to be.<br />

This is no overnight craze, but a legitimate new<br />

vehicle and way to ride.<br />

“I can’t really say that I’m sure it’s ever going to<br />

go mainstream,” says Mike.<br />

“I’m not really upset about that necessarily. It’s<br />

not for everybody. It’s a very dangerous thing<br />

and it’s difficult to learn as well, so it doesn’t<br />

surprise me that it may not be the next big<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

171


172 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


thing. But for the people that are into<br />

it, the people that are inspired by it<br />

and are passionate about it, it’s just<br />

the sickest thing ever. It’s so fun to<br />

just go out and ride.”<br />

And that’s what it’s all about. So, how<br />

fun is it? See page 177.<br />

BINDINGS<br />

THE BEAST<br />

GEAR: SKATE<br />

For more information, excellent video<br />

footage and to see the boards in<br />

action, visit the website at<br />

www.freebord.com and to order a<br />

board in Australia or NZ, visit<br />

www.freebordaustralia.com<br />

Thanks To Nick Cruit and Freebord<br />

for info and pics. Interview quotes<br />

from the Freebord website and<br />

video documentary by Payman<br />

Najafpour, Eric Grimaldo, Britney<br />

Alford and Pierre Nahoum online at:<br />

www.youtube.com/watch?v=EP_<br />

XGAHbeDw<br />

WIDE TRUCKS<br />

The boards are available with decks of<br />

varying sizes and materials, for riders<br />

of all weights and heights and are<br />

available as 7-ply maple, or Bamboo-<br />

Maple hybrid decks, made with a 5 ply<br />

Canadian Rock Maple core and 2 ply<br />

(top and bottom) vertically laminated<br />

Phyllostachys high grade bamboo - the<br />

strongest natural material on earth<br />

relative to its weight.<br />

SWIVELLING<br />

WHEELS UNDER<br />

THE DECK<br />

"FOR THE PEOPLE THAT ARE INTO IT, THE PEOPLE THAT ARE<br />

INSPIRED BY IT AND ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT IT, IT'S JUST THE<br />

SICKEST THING EVER. IT'S SO FUN TO JUST GO OUT AND RIDE."<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

173


THE FIRST<br />

LIMITED EDITION<br />

PRODUCTION<br />

BOARD<br />

With cork deck!<br />

BRAND<br />

NEW DECK &<br />

DESIGN!<br />

“MEAT LOAF DELUXE”<br />

BY KOASTAL<br />

“DART GREEN”<br />

BY GREMMIE<br />

“RALLY”<br />

BY ARBOR<br />

“CIRCA 70”<br />

BY OBFIVE<br />

“STINGER”<br />

BY FiiK ELECTRIC<br />

RRP: $299<br />

Dimensions: 33” x 9”<br />

Deck: Aspen, Mahogany,<br />

Purple Heart and a mixture<br />

of green, blue, red, yellow,<br />

and orange dyed maple<br />

veneers with Lucid Grip.<br />

The core is 5-ply Maple.<br />

Deck shape: Slight<br />

concave, reverse camber<br />

Trucks: Revenge Alpha II,<br />

single pivot 45° torsion<br />

Bearings: Oil-filled<br />

Koastal Abec-5<br />

Wheels: Koastal 65mm /<br />

83a Durometer<br />

Description: Just<br />

like mum used to<br />

make, the Meat Loaf<br />

is made from the best<br />

of what’s leftover in<br />

the wood shop. It’s<br />

Koastal’s contribution to<br />

minimising waste. Every<br />

6th deck, the stringer<br />

pattern changes. You’re<br />

unlikely to see the same<br />

board twice.<br />

Comment: Designed for<br />

carving, sidewalk surfing<br />

and the pure thrill of<br />

turning. Super tight turns<br />

are thanks to the external<br />

Revenge Truck locking<br />

mechanism. Turning has<br />

never been easier.<br />

Dimensions: 28” x 8”<br />

Wheels: Green Jelly<br />

Gremmie 60mm 78A<br />

Trucks:<br />

Rukus with ½’’ risers<br />

Bearings: Abec-3 Pigs<br />

Description: The<br />

Gremmie Dart Green<br />

complete comes with that<br />

collective quality. You<br />

get the Gremmie logo<br />

on top and bottom with<br />

grip panels and great<br />

colors. The Abec-3 Pig<br />

bearings offer removable<br />

red chromium steel dent<br />

resistant shields, brass<br />

ball retainers, a 7 ball<br />

design. Grade 10 balls<br />

with silver inner and outer<br />

bearing steel. Super finish<br />

for a faster spin and easy<br />

to clean.<br />

Comment: A solid set up.<br />

Suits: Barefoot Rippers<br />

Dimensions: 33.25” x 8.50”<br />

Deck: 7 Ply Maple with a<br />

Cork top sheet<br />

Wheels: 65mm (78a) Arbor<br />

Bio-Urethane Street Series<br />

Trucks:<br />

9’’ Gullwing Charger<br />

Bearings: Abec-5<br />

Description: BRAND<br />

NEW STREET SKATE! The<br />

cork surface is ideal for<br />

barefoot skating, but can<br />

weather any skate shoe<br />

abuse. Ideal for around<br />

town surf-inspired skating.<br />

Comment: A standout<br />

feature of this board is<br />

the CORK DECK. Cork is<br />

the original renewable<br />

material. It has been used<br />

as a valuable resource for<br />

thousands of years. Cork<br />

is a bark that is harvested<br />

every nine years off cork<br />

oak trees without harming<br />

the tree. Cork is an<br />

excellent natural insulator.<br />

It dampens road vibration,<br />

while providing grip for<br />

barefoot skating.<br />

RRP: $129.95<br />

Suits: Groms and cool cats<br />

Specs: 22” x 6.5”<br />

Deck: 7-Ply 100%<br />

Canadian Maple<br />

Trucks: 3.25” Aluminium<br />

Bearings: Abec-7<br />

Wheels: 59mm 78A<br />

Super High Rebound<br />

Description: “Before<br />

there was plastic, there<br />

was timber”<br />

This stylish little classic<br />

will get you where you<br />

need to be. The perfect<br />

board for cruising the<br />

streets, checking the<br />

surf or tearing up the<br />

gutters....<br />

Comment: Check out the<br />

full range of boards at<br />

obfiveskateboards.com.au<br />

Also, check out our<br />

stockist link online to find<br />

your local dealer.<br />

Suits: Street speeders<br />

Dimensions: Big<br />

Deck: Classic, stylish<br />

pintail design. The longer,<br />

narrower board shape<br />

with more length in the<br />

nose offers versatile<br />

weight distribution.<br />

Wheels: Lightweight<br />

polished aluminium alloy<br />

street rims with highdensity<br />

rubber tyres.<br />

Power: Premium<br />

performance, all alloy<br />

construction Lithium-<br />

Polymer LiFePo4 or sealed<br />

lead acid battery<br />

Description: Stability<br />

and ride flexibility<br />

combine for smooth and<br />

versatile styling. Propelled<br />

by a high-torque power<br />

plant, STINGER’s heritage<br />

inspired longboard profile,<br />

puts you on a master of<br />

high-paced street riding.<br />

Comment: Ride back to<br />

the future on a STINGER.<br />

There’s nothing like it.<br />

Step up onto a STINGER...<br />

the longboard lives!<br />

STREET SUP<br />

Ph: 0466 264 232<br />

koastal@streetsup.com.au<br />

www.streetsup.com.au<br />

Join us on Facebook<br />

GOLIATH INDUSTRIES<br />

Ph: 03 9380 1799<br />

info@goliathskate.com<br />

www.goliathskate.com<br />

www.facebook.com/<br />

goliathskate<br />

ARBOR SKATEBOARDS<br />

For local dealer information<br />

please contact us by email:<br />

info@futuresport.com.au,<br />

call 02 4365 1838 or visit<br />

arborcollective.com/skate<br />

OBFIVE SKATEBOARDS<br />

Trade enquiries:<br />

kris@obfiveskateboards.com.au<br />

obfiveskateboards.com.au<br />

Like us on Facebook<br />

obfiveskateboards<br />

FIIK SKATEBOARDS<br />

2/3366 Pacific Highway,<br />

Springwood QLD<br />

Ph: 07 3208 3208<br />

E: sales@fiikskateboards.com<br />

fiikskateboards.com<br />

174 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

175


TEST<br />

EVERYTHING<br />

“DON’T KNOCK IT TILL<br />

YOU’VE TRIED IT”<br />

TREE TO STREET<br />

IN A WORLD WHERE EVERY PRODUCT IS LIKE EVERY PRODUCT<br />

AND IT SEEMS THAT EVERY BRAND IS PUMPED OUT OF THE<br />

SAME NAMELESS FACTORY, A BRAND WITH ECO-CRED, AND<br />

EYE FOR DETAIL AND UNBEATABLE QUALITY IS A RARITY<br />

INDEED. LET US INTRODUCE YOU TO ARBOR...<br />

ARBOR BLUNT<br />

from the Roller Collection<br />

Length: 44<br />

Width: 9.25”<br />

Wheelbase: 23.75”<br />

Wheels: 78a durometer Street Series wheels<br />

Bearings: ABEC 5<br />

Trucks: Gullwing Charger<br />

Arbor skateboards essentially perform the same<br />

function as a normal longboard cruiser but it’s the<br />

quality of the ride that sets them apart. Comparing<br />

an Arbor to a lesser skateboard is like comparing a<br />

Mercedes to a Ford. You can get where you’re going in<br />

either, but man, can you just feel the difference? How<br />

smoothly they handle on the road, paths, anything...<br />

The quality of the deck, trucks, bearings and risers all<br />

work together to give you absolute royal rolling.<br />

Bikepath?<br />

Ha! I laugh in<br />

your face...<br />

The Blunt is one of their most versatile shapes for all<br />

round longboard cruising. It’s got a fat nose for hanging<br />

ten and a rounded kick tail for added performance. This<br />

baby flies. It handles so easily. The Blunt will take pride<br />

of place in your skateboard quiver or be the all-round<br />

longboard you use pretty much every day.<br />

And it’s eco-friendly. As with all Arbor skateboards both<br />

the maple and bamboo come from sustainable sources<br />

of supply. Deck grips use recycled, long-lasting crushed<br />

glass. All risers feature recycled plastic and finishes<br />

are water-based. Essentially, it feels as good in your<br />

soul as it does under your soles.<br />

Topping this one will take a lot. ‘Nuff said. Off to roll.<br />

Find out more at www.arborcollective.com<br />

Above: Smooth and stable.<br />

Right: Cool black and gold<br />

artwork underneath makes<br />

a great finishing detail and<br />

complement to the beautiful<br />

wooden deck.<br />

176 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


FREE YOUR MIND<br />

PART SNOWBOARD, PART SKATEBOARD, PURE<br />

EXHILARATION. WE HAPPILY GET OUR HANDS ON THE<br />

FREEBORD AND FIND OUT ANY HYPE IS 200% JUSTIFIED.<br />

NO FAD, NO FASHION... JUST PURE FUN.<br />

Lego for<br />

big kids... Get<br />

building.<br />

1.<br />

2.<br />

3.<br />

4.<br />

5.<br />

6.<br />

PART ONE: ASSEMBLY<br />

The Freebord arrives in a compact little box. One<br />

Phillips-head screwdriver and a shifting spanner later,<br />

you’re about 20 minutes away from your first ride.<br />

1. Bindings first... Connect the bindings’ base to the<br />

board, but don’t tighten the bolts<br />

2. Connect bindings to the base, but don’t fix them yet.<br />

3. Step onto the deck, adjust the angle and height<br />

according to your liking and tighten it all up.<br />

4. Trucks on, single wheel to the inside.<br />

5 & 6. All done and ready to roll!<br />

PART TWO: THE RIDE<br />

We must confess, these picture were NOT taken<br />

on the first attempt. No, no, no... The first go was a<br />

merciless pounding. I hadn’t fallen off any board as<br />

much in years - and I fall a lot. In fact, without wrist<br />

guards, I would now be dictating, not typing.<br />

They say the learning curve on these boards is steep<br />

and this, my friends, is beyond true. Firstly, because<br />

the Freebord acts like a snowboard and you control it<br />

by flicking from edge to edge, it’s absolutely nothing<br />

like a skateboard - a fact that really messes with your<br />

head if you’re used to skating. Hence the falls, over<br />

and over again.<br />

Pain and damaged pride aside, the feeling you get<br />

when you do finally get it going, is nothing short of<br />

amazing! While it’s designed to be a snowboard<br />

simulator, it’s a hell of a lot like finless surfing too,<br />

with free movement in every direction - a plus and a<br />

minus of course. See above re: fall, pain, etc...<br />

With the six wheels, you can never have both sides of<br />

the main wide trucks on the ground at the same time.<br />

You’re always on an edge and the centre swivelling<br />

wheels. When you get comfy you can alloy yourself to<br />

roll on those centre wheels to go sideways, do 360°<br />

spins and the like - none of which I have mastered, of<br />

course, but there’s a whole lot to aspire to. Read more<br />

on page 168 or check out any of the great videos<br />

online at www.freebord.com for endless inspiration.<br />

Downside? You need a hill - there’s no pushing on<br />

the flat with this baby. Grab your longboard cruiser for<br />

that. It’s dangerous and it hurts to learn, but it’s worth<br />

it. Safety gear is an absolute must.<br />

Upside? It’s amazing, addictive and gets your<br />

adrenaline pumping like nothing else on land.<br />

So, while I’m still rolling like an old lady, I’m an<br />

absolute convert and trust me, you will be too. For<br />

around $350 or so, you can get your own Freebord<br />

from www.freebordaustralia.com.au<br />

No soft landings<br />

here, so toughen up,<br />

buttercup. You’ll be<br />

glad you did.<br />

Shown here is the<br />

Bomber Bamboo Series<br />

Core Package RRP - $325<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

177


PERFORMANCE<br />

FOR SURFERS<br />

The best you expect from a fin system!<br />

QUALITY<br />

FOR SHAPERS<br />

The best for your customers, without the<br />

price tag. Enjoy the rewards of your work.<br />

Introducing the<br />

GASfins NITRO<br />

fin plug...<br />

<br />

TEST<br />

EVERYTHING<br />

“DON’T KNOCK IT TILL<br />

YOU’VE TRIED IT”<br />

BITTEN BY<br />

THE PENGUIN<br />

WORDS: DAVE SWAN<br />

THE FAT PENGUIN<br />

Shaper: Paul Cole<br />

Size: Just under 6’5”<br />

Fins: thruster<br />

Features: Wings, nine intricate flow forms<br />

Take that,<br />

Dave!<br />

• Less flex in the base of your fin<br />

• Lightest, easiest fin system to install<br />

• Compatible with GASfins and other<br />

leading fin systems<br />

• For all shapes and deck contours<br />

• Variety of colours, from glass-filled<br />

nylon to polycarbonate hybrids<br />

• Extra long grub screws that lengthen<br />

the life of the plug<br />

Enjoy the benefits today<br />

0417 980 524 • gasfins@gmail.com<br />

WWW.GASFINS.COM.AU<br />

First test run<br />

I’m careful what I say, considering our family<br />

audience, but the first time I took off on this<br />

board, I just went, ‘*##*#@’.<br />

I had barely ridden a wave over the last month<br />

or so, due to a complete lack of surf on the<br />

Sunshine Coast, let alone anything with some<br />

size. I was drooling at the onset of some<br />

decent swell and the chance to test a board<br />

that apparently revels in big wave conditions.<br />

The question was, had I completely forgotten<br />

what it was like to tear down the face of wave<br />

or did this board take off like a rocket? I mean<br />

it absolutely took off.<br />

Sure with some boards you can generate<br />

awesome speed, but I didn’t do anything. I<br />

pointed it, tore off down the wave and before<br />

I could think of turning, was well ahead of<br />

the crest. No pumping the board, just sheer<br />

straight-line speed.<br />

Wave after wave, I loved it. It took a little<br />

getting used to, but I got such a buzz each time<br />

it accelerated down a steep face. The super<br />

sleek, pointy ‘speed machine’ nose certainly<br />

took away some paddling power (from the<br />

waist up it is less than 16.5” wide) but that<br />

was compensated for by the wide arse and<br />

wings. And when that wide tail came into play,<br />

I found it steadied the ship enormously instead<br />

of the board getting the speed wobbles.<br />

2nd Test Run<br />

Boxing Day. The remnants of ex-Tropical<br />

Cyclone Fina started to hit our shores and<br />

Moffat Beach delivered big, beautiful waves.<br />

The ‘Happy Place’ was on song. Never a<br />

nasty wave, the size of the swell just meant it<br />

packed some punch. Only five others way out<br />

the back meant it is was going to be special.<br />

“Happy Feet’s<br />

cousin is one<br />

bloodthirsty bird”<br />

178 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


The toothless smile. Caloundra all the way, baby.<br />

Three waves in and I was starting to<br />

settle in with my new found friend<br />

once more. Then came a good set.<br />

Drilled into me by my dad since I was<br />

a kid was, ‘don’t pike on the big ones’<br />

so I turned and went. Down the face,<br />

turn, back up towards the lip, turn<br />

and then the mother pitched me off<br />

the top.<br />

Now a normal board would often<br />

follow you through the air but the<br />

Penguin had other ideas. It is unlike<br />

other boards. It sucks onto a wave<br />

and decided to keep track and meet<br />

me at the bottom. And when I reentered<br />

the water, she bit me!<br />

The minute she chomped into my<br />

skin I knew it wouldn’t be good. I<br />

reached down and my fingers entered<br />

what was now a mouth on my leg. I<br />

whipped up my boardshorts to confirm<br />

the attack. Bugger, bugger, bugger.<br />

“Hello! nom,<br />

nom nom...”<br />

Unable to stand or even belly-board<br />

it in because of the way the waves<br />

were pitching, I had to paddle out into<br />

the deep water of the bay. A slow<br />

15 - 20 minute paddle in with a nice<br />

slick of blood trailing behind had me<br />

feeling somewhat like a Meals on<br />

Wheels delivery...<br />

Off to emergency. The ladies at<br />

Caloundra Hospital were absolutely<br />

fantastic and saw to me promptly.<br />

Laying spread eagle on the bed,<br />

the highly experienced nurse Jane<br />

quipped, ‘she had seen bigger’ and<br />

with a laugh promptly got on with<br />

fixing me up - a few internal and<br />

external stitches. Apparently the<br />

Penguin had a penchant for snags.<br />

The angry bird had eaten through<br />

my skin into the fascia, which is a<br />

sausage-like casing of the muscle.<br />

At the conclusion of my ordeal I<br />

considered myself lucky the nibble<br />

was not further up my leg or I would<br />

be now singing Soprano.<br />

As for my verdict on the Fat Penguin,<br />

my last words were the same as the<br />

first. The board is a good one, the<br />

rider however is not.<br />

THE BOARD<br />

This is, hands down, the most enjoyable board I have<br />

ever ridden! I picked it up after riding my fish and have<br />

not touched the fish since, in fact I am getting rid of<br />

my fish and replacing it with this godly piece of work<br />

shaped by Mark Gnech.<br />

This board is a loose cannon on small waves. It’s<br />

slightly nuggety shape and fatter tail made racing<br />

along the face of waves effortless, not to mention the<br />

incredible amount of drive and control I got through<br />

turns with its thinner rails and thruster setup. Sticking<br />

top turns became too easy on this board, and it certainly<br />

wasn’t shy when you wanted to jam the tail out. Not only<br />

will you tear the wave a new sphincter with this board,<br />

you will look good doing it with its killer paint job!<br />

GAS HPMs on the<br />

Vampirate Rainbow...<br />

Summer’s in the bag<br />

FLight of the bumblebee<br />

VAMPIRATE RAINBOW 5’8” x 20” x 2 3 /8” with GAS HPM fins<br />

WORDS: DYLAN REID<br />

CRAZY COOL<br />

WORDS: DAVE SWAN (PRE-PENGUIN ATTACK)<br />

SURF 1770 TWIN FIN<br />

Size: About 6ft and unique<br />

Features: Erle Pedersen Kewarra Flame Jet bottom,<br />

teaspoon concave, whale tail tail<br />

This was another board I was really looking<br />

forward to riding. GlenCat is such a character I<br />

hoped like hell the board would be fun to ride...<br />

And it was.<br />

She was a dream to paddle. It’s only 6ft put<br />

paddles like a longboard. Plenty of volume to<br />

get you about and once on the wave she was<br />

nice and loose.<br />

It surfed super smooth. It is almost hard to<br />

describe the feeling.<br />

The jet bottom and teaspoon concave worked<br />

together to bust water tension and provide the<br />

THE FINS<br />

What’s not to like about Gas fins? They’re everything you<br />

need in a fin and at a good price too.<br />

I rode the medium fins in 3ft surf and they were awesome.<br />

They had so much control and predictability when pumping<br />

along the face of the wave and not to mention a solid<br />

amount of drive when digging into that bottom turn.<br />

They come in a few different designs and sizes, so you can<br />

mix and match until you hit that sweet spot. Since riding<br />

these fins, I see no point in riding anything else.<br />

www.vampiratesurfboards.com<br />

www.gasfins.com.au<br />

Dylan + Rainbow + Crescent Head.<br />

PHOTO: Mark Chapman<br />

right amount of looseness, hold and control.<br />

When combined with the specially designed<br />

hand foiled fins, you had a great deal of drive<br />

with the same level of maneuverability many<br />

are accustomed to with a twin fin.<br />

The fins are same thickness from base to tip.<br />

They are solid foils with flex built into them so<br />

they stay as a permanent flex without need for<br />

the fin to bend. The end result overall is a twin<br />

fin that you could ride in a variety of conditions<br />

including overhead surf that didn’t skip out.<br />

www.surf1770noosa.com<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

179


MOVIES<br />

MUSIC<br />

CAUGHT INSIDE<br />

UMBRELLA ENTERTAINMENT<br />

<br />

The super-scary Aussie thriller<br />

we featured in the last edition<br />

is available on DVD!<br />

The tale of a surf trip gone<br />

bad is a must for your movie<br />

collection. There’s the usual<br />

extra material you expect of a<br />

DVD, but the main feature is<br />

the reason to own this.<br />

www.caughtinside.com.au<br />

Signed<br />

copies up for<br />

grabs! See<br />

Page 26<br />

Hightime party on<br />

HIGHTIME<br />

ISHI PRENDE<br />

PEE RECORDS<br />

<br />

There’s a party on the go. A<br />

Cossack polka band is having a<br />

few beers and jumping around<br />

to Propaghandi doing a set of<br />

Mr Bungle covers with a jazz<br />

band on backing, who are all<br />

listening to Sublime on their<br />

iPods at the same time. Missy<br />

Higgins and Lilly Allen arrive to<br />

join in the festivities with their<br />

daughter who was adopted<br />

and raised by Gwen Stefani<br />

on a steady diet of Jello Biafra<br />

and social justice. A giant<br />

stubbie of beery fun drops from<br />

the sky and explodes, melting<br />

all the party goers into a weird<br />

mish-mash of musical genius.<br />

Adelaide punks Hightime push<br />

just about every boundary<br />

that can be pushed in a raw,<br />

rough and ready, yet incredibly<br />

diverse and inspiring 13-track<br />

release that could easily be a<br />

standalone soundtrack to the<br />

best skate video ever.<br />

Pure energy and brilliant<br />

musicianship flows through style<br />

after style seamlessly, all bound<br />

tightly together by unexpected<br />

singing talents of Nina, a feisty<br />

young lady with no fear of<br />

busting a few vocal chords.<br />

If you like your tunes safe and<br />

predictable, this is definitely<br />

not for you. Get into these guys<br />

(and girl) before they get all<br />

punky and disenchanted and<br />

do something idiotic and selfdestructive<br />

like split up.<br />

$20 disc, or $11 download from<br />

www.peerecords.com<br />

ERNEST ELLIS &<br />

THE PANAMAS<br />

KINGS CANYON<br />

ANTELOPE RECORDINGS/INERTIA<br />

<br />

Epic, atmospheric and<br />

ethereal... This ten-song<br />

release is ripe for adjectives<br />

- uplifting, melancholy<br />

and relaxing all at once.<br />

Packed with modern ballad<br />

soundscapes, it’s one of those<br />

albums that seems to grow a<br />

little on you ever time you have<br />

it on the player. While not the<br />

same sound, fans of Andrew<br />

Kidman’s work with the Windy<br />

Hills will enjoy this very<br />

comfortable recording. Nothing<br />

sounds forced. Every sound and<br />

instrument just seems to flow<br />

together and even the more<br />

upbeat songs - such as Save<br />

Me - sound relaxed.<br />

Ernest Ellis’ understated vocals<br />

and moody, reverb-tinged<br />

arrangements come together<br />

perfectly in this beautiful piece<br />

of art. Well worth grabbing.<br />

Perfect music to just plain chill<br />

out to.<br />

For show info and more, see<br />

www.ernestellis.com<br />

DRIVEN FEAR<br />

CONTENDER<br />

PEE RECORDS<br />

<br />

“All rivers lead back to the<br />

ocean. Helps me realise where<br />

I’m going...”<br />

South Brisbane boys Driven<br />

Fear have put together one<br />

powerful release on their latest<br />

offering, Contender. With its<br />

tough title, and the fact the<br />

Scotty Mac of Sydney legends<br />

Toe-to-Toe does a guest<br />

appearance, it’s as you would<br />

expect it to be - tough as nails.<br />

Heartfelt, honest hardcore.<br />

A cool digipack with 12-page<br />

booklet makes the physical<br />

product well worth the buy,<br />

but you can also get some<br />

instant gratification with a<br />

digital download and save a<br />

few dollars.<br />

$20 disc, or $11 download from<br />

peerecords.com<br />

www.peerecords.com.<br />

SOUL SURFER<br />

DVD: AUGUST 2011 (It may not<br />

be the latest, but if you haven’t<br />

seen it, make sure you do)<br />

<br />

What a sensational movie! A<br />

truly remarkable story about<br />

an amazing young lady and the<br />

importance of never giving up.<br />

Pardon the cliché, but I kind of<br />

knew the story, had read the<br />

odd clipping or two about what<br />

happened to Bethany Hamilton<br />

but the movie brought it all<br />

together beautifully. I loved it.<br />

I watched it with my wife and<br />

her parents and immediately<br />

vowed my kids must watch this<br />

movie. It is inspirational.<br />

If you love surfing, have<br />

kids that surf, particularly<br />

daughters, this movie will have<br />

you bawling like a baby. If it<br />

doesn’t move you, you better<br />

get your heart checked... to see<br />

if you have one.<br />

www.soulsurferthemovie.com<br />

And if you enjoyed<br />

that, check out...<br />

HEART OF A SOUL SURFER - DVD<br />

To find out more about this amazing lady, you may also like<br />

to consider viewing the behind the scenes account of what<br />

happened and the story behind her faith. After watching<br />

this DVD you truly start to understand how Bethany<br />

Hamilton overcame this adversity.<br />

Her happiness and zest for life is incredible. There’s a<br />

beautiful quote from the movie where Bethany says, “I do<br />

sometimes get self conscious. You see all these beautiful<br />

girls with perfect bodies, perfect everything. The way I<br />

deal with it is to recognise beauty is not everything and in<br />

your heart you can be beautiful and to just do your best to<br />

ignore the fact you are not perfect.”<br />

180 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


OLD GUYS,<br />

HOT GIRLS<br />

Don’t be dirty... We mean the<br />

clothing. Here’s some cool gear for<br />

guys and girls this summer.<br />

CLOSEOUT: FASHION<br />

HIVE SWIMWEAR<br />

After seeing this photo we couldn’t<br />

help but run a sneak peak of the<br />

upcoming Hive <strong>2012</strong>/2013 collection.<br />

For more: www.hiveswimwear.com<br />

OLD GUYS RULE<br />

If getting around in a cool retro t-shirt is more your<br />

thing than skirts and bikinis, then these are for you.<br />

T- shirts RRP $39.95<br />

www.oldguysrule.com.au<br />

WIN a<br />

ZAND skirt!<br />

See<br />

Page 26<br />

ZAND WRAP SKIRTS<br />

Fresh from Amsterdam, these wraparound skirts<br />

are hand crafted from beautiful fabrics, finished<br />

with sequins, lace and other trimmings such as<br />

a mobile phone pocket. Available in a range of<br />

different lengths and fabrics. Each skirt is unique<br />

and prices start from $65.<br />

www.zand.com.au<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

181


HEART<br />

WORK<br />

After twenty years of earning his bread and butter spraying<br />

surfboards, NZ-born artist and Gold Coast local, Christian<br />

Chapman has taken a big step out of the spray booth to find<br />

himself hanging his art on the walls of galleries.<br />

WORDS: MARK CHAPMAN<br />

"WHEN YOU GO TO CANVAS, THERE ARE NO RESTRICTIONS<br />

“Painting is something I’ve always done, but over the<br />

last five years, it’s really taken off.” says Christian,<br />

as he shows us his workspace in a backstreet of<br />

Mermaid Beach on the Gold Coast. “As you can see<br />

in this room, there’s hardly any surfboards around. It’s<br />

just the direction its taken.”<br />

Despite being a keen surfer, shaper and one so long<br />

involved in the surf scene – even shaping surfboards -<br />

he’s not too unhappy about the change of focus.<br />

“Surfboard spraying is the epitome when you’re 16,<br />

but as you get older the ‘froth’ sort of wears off. “<br />

182 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

But he’s quick to point out how grateful he is for the<br />

experience, which he refers to as his ‘University degree.’<br />

“I learned so much of my art spraying surfboards.<br />

You have to be so diverse and be able to cover the<br />

full spectrum - from Posca work, airbrush work,<br />

pinlines… You’re catering to different breeds of<br />

surfers, so it really develops your art.”<br />

With an artist mother and designer father, Christian<br />

seemed destined for a creative career. In the art<br />

world, he saw a niche for himself, creating something<br />

a little different to the standard oil-on-canvas.<br />

“This is art. You can do whatever you want to do<br />

- hand paint and airbrush,” he explains. “I love the<br />

hand paintbrush for the lineal stuff and then the<br />

airbrush is just awesome for the tonal stuff and I<br />

think that’s a really good marriage.”<br />

His current work is mostly portraits of tattooed<br />

women – a juxtaposition of soft beauty and the<br />

harsher image of tattoos. While this theme is<br />

somewhat of a continuation of some of the surfboard<br />

spray art, taking it out of the surf has given him<br />

greater artistic freedom.


Portrait photos: Mark Chapman. Artwork and surf photo: supplied<br />

CLOSEOUT: ART<br />

AND IT’S NOT GOING TO GET WAXED OVER, OR SNAPPED"<br />

“Scale-wise, when you go to canvas, there are no<br />

restrictions and it’s not going to get waxed over, or<br />

snapped,“ he laughs.<br />

While he’s taken his spraying down a notch or two,<br />

Christian has made sure his art is available to surfers<br />

through SurfDecals.com, who license a number of his<br />

works as prints that get laminated to the surfboard as<br />

part of the production process.<br />

“He’s pumping it man, and what a product! A shaper<br />

near here was using another product and it was plastic<br />

and not staying down that well. Ian (Wallis – Surf<br />

Decals) printed some up and it just worked. It’s porous<br />

and light, so it just laminated straight onto the board.<br />

It’s already cut out to your file… And it’s just great<br />

quality printing.”<br />

Squeezed in between painting and the business side<br />

of being an artist, surfing still makes up a big part of<br />

Christian’s life. Using his personally shaped boards, he<br />

makes a habit of getting out in the water as often as<br />

possible, with South Stradbroke his pick of the spots.<br />

“It’s just so easy to get barreled! You go to make a turn<br />

and you’re already in the barrel. It has so much power!<br />

It’s pretty inundated with all the crowds these days,<br />

but where isn’t? The beachies out here have their day<br />

too…”<br />

For more on Christian’s artwork check out his website<br />

at www.christianchapmanart.com.au.<br />

If you like what you see and would like to find<br />

out more about getting one of his images on your<br />

surfboard, visit www.surfdecals.com.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

183


“WE’RE FOCUSED ON THE<br />

RETRO MOVEMENT – VINTAGE<br />

SURFBOARDS, MODERN RETRO<br />

SHAPES, RETRO GEAR AND A GOOD<br />

RANGE OF SECONDHAND BOARDS.”<br />

ANDRE ‘ONDI’ MARSAUS, UNDERGROUND SURF<br />

184 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


UNDERGROUND<br />

CURRENTS<br />

WORDS: DAVE SWAN, PHOTOS: MARK CHAPMAN<br />

COUNTER CULTURE<br />

There is an underground movement afoot in Noosa. Indeed the<br />

owners of the store of the same name in Coolangatta, Andre ‘Ondi’<br />

Marsaus and Maree O’Connor, have just opened their second<br />

Underground store on Noosa Drive, just up from Noosa Junction<br />

opposite the Koala Bar - a local bar and backpackers.<br />

In fact it was beside the Koala Bar where Ondi first worked when he<br />

arrived in Noosa in the late 70s.<br />

“I love Noosa. I formerly spent 25 years here. I used to repair surfboards<br />

in an old house beside where the Koala Bar is today. At night time I<br />

would scrub pots and pans for extra cash and somehow ended up a chef.”<br />

Not any old chef we might just add. For those who may recall a<br />

previous article written about Ondi’s amazing vintage surfboard<br />

collection, his culinary skills saw him travel the country cooking for<br />

Prime Ministers, dignitries, celebrities and even Queen Elizabeth. We<br />

asked Ondi about the reason for his return and why he and Maree<br />

sought to open an Underground in Noosa.<br />

“We’re about doing something different. We’re focused on the retro<br />

movement – vintage surfboards, modern retro shapes, retro gear and<br />

a good range of secondhand boards. Our own Underground boards<br />

are all Australian made, right on the coast, by experienced shapers<br />

including master craftsmen Tony Dempsey and Terry Glass. We also<br />

have a few select Gordon & Smith shapes.”<br />

‘Select’ being a key word. Indeed everything in Underground is hand<br />

picked by Ondi to suit the shop. His philosophy is to give surfers<br />

a break from the big commercial surf brands and offer something<br />

different. As such, on the clothing side of things Underground carries<br />

a number of independent brands such as Art Park, Hinano Tahiti and<br />

Rhythm along with old shapers t-shirts from the likes of Michael<br />

Peterson, Bobby Brown and Gordon & Smith.<br />

“We don’t just flood the shop with one or two brands and in terms of<br />

surf hardware, we stock brands that we know work and last because<br />

they are quality. Gear that my friends and I use on a regular basis.<br />

That is why we carry Ocean & Earth and Balin.”<br />

Ondi continually looks to inject a bit of himself into everything<br />

associated with the store. Many of the memorabilia pieces have not<br />

only been bought specifically for Underground but are from his very<br />

own personal collection.<br />

When it comes to artworks from the likes of Von Weirdo or other<br />

local artists, or original Storm Riders posters or even the range of<br />

rereleased DVDs and CDs from the 60s and 70s, Ondi looks to add<br />

that personal touch. He gets them signed to add value to the piece<br />

for the customer.<br />

And the same applies to his skateboard collection. Aside from the<br />

likes of boards from Z-Flex, Penny, Early and Adjust there are some<br />

truly unique skateboard decks signed Tony Alva and Christian Hosoi.<br />

The two in store are some of only 200-odd worldwide.<br />

Underground is a time warp for surfers and a true collectors haven.<br />

But just wait until one of their famous swap meets rolls around.<br />

UNDERGROUND SURF<br />

3/77 Noosa Drive, Noosa Heads, Sunshine Coast<br />

3/31 McLean Street, Coolangatta, Gold Coast - 07 5599 1040<br />

www.undergroundsurf.com.au<br />

Surfboards new and secondhand, memorabilia, books, DVDs, CDs, clothing... Both<br />

UNDERGOURND SURF stores are treasure troves of all sorts of great surf gear<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

185


NAIL THOSE RE-ENTRIES<br />

WORDS: ALISTAIR LAWSON, NEXT LEVEL SURF COACHING & GREAT OCEAN ROAD SURF TOURS<br />

Nose & Paddle Guards,<br />

Rail Tape & Leash Plugs<br />

Pro Teck Fins<br />

Travel Safe Repair Kts<br />

In the November - December issue we looked<br />

at the importance of the bottom turn in surfing.<br />

Establishing it’s role in creating drive and speed<br />

to be able to ride up to the top of the wave. We<br />

are now going to look at what we do when we<br />

get there.<br />

What you do at the top of the wave will be<br />

determined by what the wave and lip are doing<br />

at the time. If the lip is feathering and looking<br />

like it is on its way to breaking, we know that<br />

the wave is steep enough for a more vertical<br />

manoeuvre as the lip and wave will add some<br />

‘push’ for us to turn sharply and come back down<br />

the wave’s face. If the wave is slightly fatter<br />

and more open, a manoeuvre such as a snap or<br />

cutback will be a better option as they will then<br />

take us back to the breaking part of the wave<br />

and in turn the most powerful part of the wave.<br />

This will then help us keep our speed and flow<br />

throughout the waves’ duration.<br />

Studying the conditions before you paddle out<br />

can help you as you ‘mind surf’ the possibilities<br />

of the waves on offer. This will help you make<br />

educated decisions about what to do for each<br />

section you face and create a faster reaction<br />

time when surfing.<br />

RE- ENTRY TRAINING<br />

Let’s break down the manoeuvre into sections and<br />

cue words to make it easy to remember.<br />

1. TARGET. When coming out of the bottom<br />

turn you need to be eyeing up the section you<br />

are looking to do the turn in. Preferably for<br />

this turn you are looking at a steep section.<br />

2. ROTATE. When you are heading up the<br />

waves face you need to start shifting your<br />

weight onto your back foot at the same time<br />

you start to rotate by turning your head and<br />

upper body to open the chest. This will<br />

help you turn the board and not get stuck<br />

in the lip.<br />

3. BOARD TO BEACH. As your board hits<br />

the lip your rotation should have you turning<br />

your head and chest to a position where<br />

your board is facing the beach.<br />

4. CHEST OVER FRONT FOOT. You need<br />

to re-centre over your board by putting the<br />

weight onto your front foot and stay in a<br />

compressed position so you can come out of<br />

the turn with speed and set yourself up for<br />

the next turn.<br />

COMMON ERRORS<br />

• Keeping the body too straight as you approach<br />

the lip. This then makes it harder to get a good<br />

rotation and can put you off balance.<br />

• Not rotating enough or early enough which will<br />

either have you catching a rail or getting stuck<br />

in the lip<br />

• Not looking for the landing – back towards the<br />

beach. This is important to complete the turn<br />

and help you ride out.<br />

SURFTECH AUSTRALIA<br />

www.surftechaustralia.com.au<br />

186 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

02 4226 1322<br />

Alistair Lawson is a qualified Level 2 Surf Coach and he’s been surfing for nearly 20 years<br />

himself. Having studied Sports Science and Sports Coaching, Alistair worked as a qualified<br />

personal trainer for 16 years. He now owns Great Ocean Road Surf Tours, which has been<br />

running for 6 years, providing ‘the simplest, most enjoyable way to experience surfing.<br />

For information on surf coaching, visit: www.gorsurftours.com.au


EXERCISES<br />

FOR THE<br />

TRAVELLING<br />

SURFER<br />

GRAB AN EXERCISE BAND AND TAKE<br />

YOUR WORKOUT WITH YOU<br />

WORDS: CLAYTON BEATTY<br />

If you have to be away from home for work, holidays or even a surf trip (aren’t you<br />

lucky), there is no excuse not to keep up your fitness routine. These days there are a<br />

variety of different types of portable fitness equipment, and one that makes a great<br />

travelling companion for any surfer is an exercise band.<br />

Exercise bands are light and won’t take up much luggage space, and they allow you<br />

to do a full body workout with lots of different exercises to keep you entertained. You<br />

can even combine band exercises with bodyweight exercises (like push-ups and squat<br />

jumps) for an even better workout.<br />

When travelling you can often be pressed for time, so I recommend going for a fast<br />

paced circuit workout lasting 20-30 minutes. Pick 5-8 exercises and do them back to<br />

back with minimal rest, then repeat the circuit 2-3 times for a great total body workout.<br />

Next time you’re travelling, take an exercise band and have a go at incorporating the<br />

following exercises into your fitness routine so you can keep in shape and be physically<br />

prepared to hit the surf.<br />

CLOSEOUT: COLUMNS<br />

BAND CORE ROTATIONS<br />

• Use this exercise to develop rotational core strength for more powerful turns.<br />

• Start holding the band in both hands out to the side of your body.<br />

• Keeping your core braced to protect your lower back, rotate the band across<br />

your body, making sure you move from your hips and pivot on the balls of<br />

your feet.<br />

• Perform 8-10 reps on each side of your body.<br />

LUNGING CHEST PRESS<br />

• This exercise will build chest, arm and leg strength.<br />

• Start in a standing position holding an end of the band in each hand at<br />

chest level.<br />

• Lunge forward and simultaneously press the band out in front of your chest.<br />

• Step back up to the start position, then alternate lunging on the other leg.<br />

• Perform 5-8 repetitions on each leg.<br />

STRAIGHT ARM PULL-DOWNS<br />

• This exercise will help strengthen your paddling muscles.<br />

• Bend forward at your hips whilst keeping your back straight and hold onto<br />

the band with straight arms.<br />

• Keeping your arms straight pull the band down to the side of your hips,<br />

then slowly return to the start position<br />

• Perform 10-15 repetitions.<br />

SINGLE LEG SINGLE ARM ROW<br />

• This exercise will help develop a strong back and arms as well as single<br />

leg balance and trunk stability.<br />

• Stand on one leg with your knee slightly bent, core braced, chest up and<br />

shoulders back.<br />

• Hold onto the exercise band in the opposite hand to your stance leg.<br />

• Pull the band into the side of your torso whilst trying to maintain stability<br />

through the rest of your body, then slowly extend your arm back to the<br />

start position.<br />

• Perform 8-12 repetitions on each side of your body.<br />

Clayton Beatty is a qualified Exercise Scientist with a BSc Human Movement Degree from the University of WA and is a member of Exercise and Sports Science<br />

Australia (ESSA). He runs Total Surfing Fitness, created to help surfers improve their skills and reduce the risk of injury.<br />

We’re all keen to improve our surfing, so check out his website for surf-specific functional training exercises. Go to<br />

TotalSurfingFitness.com, and there’s even a free sample workout to get you started.<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

187


CLOSEOUT: COLUMNS<br />

A strange thing has happened in Australian surfing,<br />

something that has gone almost completely unnoticed.<br />

Australian’s have been surfing for over one hundred<br />

years but due to a lack of documentation and recognition<br />

of our earliest surfing pioneers, Australia’s surfing<br />

centenary has slid by without so much as a whimper.<br />

Information is the culprit, or rather, a lack of it. There<br />

are a number of vague and sketchy reports about who<br />

may have been surfing, when, where and what was<br />

being ridden in those early days. Undoubtedly a few of<br />

the early surf craft ridden in Australia may have been<br />

crudely wrought, and some of the early surfers may<br />

have struggled to ride these beasts with any style. The<br />

point is several early Aussie surfers were taking on the<br />

challenge of riding ocean waves and having a go over<br />

one hundred years ago.<br />

There was a relatively small group surfing in those<br />

early years, at Manly and other Sydney surf breaks.<br />

Surfing was a bit of a curiosity. It was just another<br />

way for people to have fun in the surf once the beach<br />

bathing bans had been lifted. Tommy Walker and his<br />

brother Russell, nicknamed “Bustie” Walker, Fred<br />

Notting, Geoff Wyld, Claude West, Norman Roberts,<br />

Steve McKelvey, Basil Kirke. Dorothy “Doll” Reynolds<br />

who rode a board with her husband Jack, Australia’s<br />

first professional lifeguard and noted water enthusiast,<br />

and Esma Amor are some of the locals reported to<br />

have ridden surfboards in those early years.<br />

There is little recorded of these surfer’s early efforts,<br />

a problem compounded by the loss of much of the<br />

public records of activities along Sydney’s northern<br />

beaches. There are very few copies of the local media,<br />

such as the Manly Daily, Manly Argus and the Manly<br />

and North Sydney News, that have survived from that<br />

period. What is clear, however, is that there was a<br />

small group of dedicated beach goers that had given<br />

surfing a serious try with Tommy Walker being the only<br />

Snowy McAllister<br />

at Manly. PHOTO:<br />

C.J.McAllister SurfWorld<br />

Museum collection<br />

AUSTRALIA’S SILENT SURFING CENTENARY<br />

one from that group that has surviving documentary<br />

evidence of his early surfing efforts.<br />

Imagine being Australia’s first surfer. Sand under your<br />

feet, sun on your shoulders and the broad blue Pacific<br />

spread out before you with waves unfolding along a<br />

pristine coastline. What an evocative thought. People<br />

love absolutes, but the origins of Australian surfing<br />

like the genesis of surfing in the Pacific fade back into<br />

the mists of time.<br />

Osric Notley’s photographs of Tommy Walker surfing at<br />

Yamba in the summer of 1911 - 1912 provides us with<br />

a definitive moment in Australian surfing history, the<br />

earliest recorded images of an Australian surfing. But<br />

Aussies had been surfing for some time before that<br />

photo was taken. Apart from taking those now iconic<br />

images, a letter from Notley also describes the board<br />

being delivered by the SS Kyogle to the Sydney docks<br />

and the subsequent arrangements for the transport of<br />

Walker’s board to Yamba. Notley also recorded some<br />

hints about the board’s origins.<br />

Some people seem keen to de-emphasise Duke<br />

Kahanamoku’s impact on Australian surfing, by<br />

pointing out Aussies had taken up the sport before<br />

Duke even arrived in the country. However, Duke’s<br />

name is linked with Walker’s surfboard as well as the<br />

board imported by C.D. Patterson with various reports<br />

citing the boards as having been sourced from Duke<br />

Kahanamoku in Hawaii. There is undoubtedly a degree<br />

of rose coloured rear vision mirrors being employed<br />

here but it often seems that all roads lead back to<br />

Waikiki, and to one man in particular.<br />

Regardless of times, dates, places and names, it is<br />

clear that Australia’s surfing heritage extends back<br />

further than the summer of 1911/12. The upcoming<br />

celebrations at Yamba of Osric Notley’s images of<br />

Tommy Walker surfing are a great milestone and<br />

something to commemorate, but there were other<br />

Australian surfers whose stories remain untold and<br />

an almost secret surfing history that has so far eluded<br />

popular perceptions.<br />

INSIDE THE GREEN ROOM<br />

SERMON, PERSPECTIVE AND A LITTLE<br />

ALANIS MORRISETTE…<br />

A ‘green’ column. I can hear the collective groan.<br />

Not another greenie trying to preach to us and add<br />

surfing to the long list of life’s guilty pleasures I hear<br />

you say. However, I can hand-on-my-heart promise<br />

you that despite all the best intentions, I am no<br />

bona fide greenie. I’d like to be, and maybe one day I<br />

will be, but right now I’m still learning. I do however<br />

love the ocean and am eternally grateful for the<br />

pleasures it brings us as a surfing community. And<br />

without sounding too Alanis Morissette here, the<br />

irony within the surfing industry is not lost on me.<br />

Which irony you say? Well let me explain...<br />

As surfers we are assumed to be connected with the<br />

ocean and to some extent we are – we know the<br />

tides, the swell direction, can recognise surf breaks<br />

from all over the world at first glance, we understand<br />

the seasons and wind direction - but does this<br />

really equate to a true connection with the ocean?<br />

Many of the elements of surfing as a recreation<br />

are contributors to environmental problems. The<br />

industry relies heavily on petrochemical by-products<br />

to produce not only surfboards but also wetsuits,<br />

clothing and accessories. How many surfers are<br />

aware that the majority of what they ride, wear<br />

and do in the interest of surfing is supported by the<br />

petroleum industry?<br />

That said, I can understand the general reluctance<br />

to learn about the meanings and ramifications of<br />

big topic issues like ocean acidification, global<br />

warming and climate change. It can be tedious,<br />

somewhat contentious, and after all, the average<br />

surfboard as an object is not the largest contributor<br />

to a typical surfer’s negative environmental impact<br />

(energy use from driving, flying and heating/cooling<br />

the home are much bigger). But the dangers to the<br />

waves that we ride are real. For example, there is<br />

credible evidence that suggests that surf breaks on<br />

coral reef passes (think Teahupo’o and Ulawatu) are<br />

anticipated to degrade drastically, to the point of<br />

being unrideable, in as little as 20-40 years’ time.<br />

What can we as individuals do to reduce these risks?<br />

Take notice. Listen to those diehard greenies<br />

sometimes, especially those in surfing circles, as<br />

without them the awesome waves Mother Nature<br />

dishes up for us would be even more threatened.<br />

We can’t change the world, but we can educate<br />

ourselves and take small steps such as buying<br />

locally made boards and products where possible,<br />

recycling or reusing instead of discarding and<br />

stopping and thinking before we buy. Embrace<br />

consumer power. Choose a local shaper who has a<br />

good clean production process. Spend a few extra<br />

bucks to get that organic cotton tee. Check out<br />

sustainable alternatives to traditional surf products.<br />

It won’t kill you to think about it. But don’t get too<br />

hung up on it. Live life and enjoy those waves. After<br />

all, we don’t know just how much longer we’ll be<br />

able to enjoy them for.<br />

Craig Baird, Curator of SurfWorld Museum Torquay is the surf history buff you want on your<br />

trivia night team. With a passion for all things that make up the ragtag history and culture<br />

of hitting the waves, he’s always happy to chew the fat over the counter at the museum and<br />

we’re lucky enough to have him commit some thought to paper here.<br />

For information on the museum, visit: www.surfworld.com.au<br />

Nicola O’Reilly is the better half of<br />

the nice folks from Surfing Green, a<br />

couple passionate about providing<br />

sustainable surfing products.<br />

www.surfinggreen.com.au<br />

188 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


Planning a surfing holiday or weekend away? These fine accommodation options offer<br />

great proximity to surf beaches in some of the country’s best surf spots. Get out there.<br />

QUEENSLAND<br />

SURF TRIP ACCOMMODATION<br />

NEW SOUTH WALES<br />

VICTORIA<br />

PORTOBELLO BY THE SEA<br />

<br />

6 Beerburrum St, Dicky Beach<br />

Caloundra<br />

Fantastic surf spots right on<br />

your doorstep. Moffat, Neill<br />

Street, Dicky Beach all within<br />

a 5 minute walk. Luxury<br />

accommodation within 50 m of<br />

some of the best restaurants<br />

Caloundra has to offer.<br />

Proximity: Across from<br />

patrolled Dicky Beach, on-site<br />

dining and shopping.<br />

Phone: 07 5491 9038<br />

E: info@portobellobythesea.com.au<br />

www.portobellobythesea.com.au<br />

From $325 for two nights.<br />

PANDANUS PALMS<br />

HOLIDAY RESORT<br />

21 Cumming Pde, Point Lookout,<br />

North Stradbroke Island<br />

High on a hill overlooking Home<br />

Beach, looking north towards<br />

Moreton Island, offering plenty<br />

of open space for children to<br />

play, full size tennis court and<br />

swimming pool.<br />

The two or three bedroom villas<br />

are fully self-contained with<br />

large living area and private<br />

balcony, own BBQ and linen<br />

is supplied. We can arrange<br />

return vehicle ferry crossings at<br />

a discounted rate.<br />

Proximity: 500m walk to Home<br />

Beach and Stradbroke Island<br />

Beach Hotel. 2km to cafes,<br />

shops and Gorge Walk.<br />

P: 07 34<strong>09</strong> 8106<br />

E: bookings@pandanuspalmsresort.com<br />

www.pandanuspalmsresort.com<br />

THE ISLANDER HOLIDAY RESORT<br />

41 East Coast Rd, Point Lookout<br />

North Stradbroke Island<br />

Ideally located, whether it’s<br />

adventure or relaxation you’re<br />

after, there’s something for<br />

everyone - pool, tennis court, bbq<br />

area, kids playground, scooter &<br />

car hire. Studio, 1 & 2 bedroom<br />

apartments available, all fully<br />

self-contained with foxtel, dvd<br />

player, wireless internet access,<br />

balconies and parking.<br />

Proximity: 2 min walk to<br />

hotel, pub, bowls club, shops<br />

& restaurants. Opposite Home/<br />

Cylinder beaches.<br />

P: 07 34<strong>09</strong> 8388<br />

E: islander@stradbrokeresorts.com.au<br />

islander.stradbrokeresorts.com.au<br />

From $225 for 2 nights<br />

IBIS WOLLONGONG<br />

Cnr Church and Market Street<br />

Wollongong<br />

3.5 star hotel in the heart of<br />

Wollongong restaurant and<br />

business district, minutes from<br />

beautiful beaches. Winner Best<br />

Standard Accommodation on the<br />

South Coast 2008, 20<strong>09</strong> & 2010.<br />

Air conditioned rooms include<br />

tea and coffee facilities, mini<br />

bar fridges, flatscreen TV and<br />

internet connectivity. Special<br />

Access rooms and facilities are<br />

also available.<br />

Proximity: 10 minute<br />

walk to the beach and WIN<br />

Entertainment Centre. On the<br />

doorstep of Crown St Mall<br />

Phone: 02 4223 6000<br />

E: H6377@accor.com<br />

www.accorhotels.com/6377<br />

PHILLIP ISLAND VISITOR<br />

INFORMATION CENTRE<br />

895 Phillip Island Road,<br />

Newhaven, Phillip Island<br />

Planning a surf trip to Phillip<br />

Island? The island offers<br />

over 2000 beds and over 100<br />

accommodation businesses to<br />

choose from.<br />

Contact Phillip Island<br />

Visitor Information Centre’s<br />

accommodation specialists for<br />

all your accommodation needs.<br />

Let our friendly staff assist you<br />

in finding the perfect place for<br />

you to stay.<br />

P: 1300 366 422<br />

E: piinfo@basscoast.vic.gov.au<br />

www.visitbasscoast.com<br />

From $330.00 for two nights<br />

From $119 per room per night<br />

CALOUNDRA<br />

HOLIDAY CENTRE<br />

1/78 Bulcock St, Caloundra<br />

Caloundra Holiday Centre has<br />

been assisting holidaymakers<br />

find their perfect Sunshine Coast<br />

getaway for over 25 years. We<br />

offer one of the largest portfolios<br />

of holiday accommodation in<br />

Caloundra, consisting of a great<br />

choice of budget to luxury self<br />

contained units and houses at<br />

all beaches. With family friendly<br />

prices and seniors’ discounts<br />

available, we’re sure to have a<br />

property to suit your needs at a<br />

competitive price.<br />

Our friendly and experienced<br />

staff can assist you with<br />

finding your perfect beach<br />

break! Request our free colour<br />

brochure and price list today!<br />

P: 07 5491 5444<br />

E: info@caloundraholidaycentre.com.au<br />

caloundraholidaycentre.com.au<br />

From $340 p/w, low season<br />

WHALE WATCH OCEAN<br />

BEACH RESORT<br />

Samarinda Dve, Point Lookout,<br />

North Stradbroke Island<br />

Located at North Stradbroke<br />

Island’s Point Lookout, Whale<br />

Watch Ocean Beach Resort<br />

provides endless views along<br />

the main surfing beach (which<br />

is one of the east’s coasts<br />

renowned surf spots) and over<br />

the Pacific Ocean, to the Gold<br />

Coast and beyond.<br />

Proximity: Short walk to Point<br />

Lookout Surf Club and all the<br />

major Point Lookout attractions.<br />

P: 07 34<strong>09</strong> 8555<br />

E: reservations@<br />

whalewatchresort.com.au<br />

www.whalewatchresort.com.au<br />

STRADBROKE ISLAND<br />

HOLIDAYS<br />

Shop 2 Raby Bay Harbour<br />

152 Shore Street West<br />

Cleveland<br />

North Stradbroke Island is the<br />

ideal holiday destination for<br />

families, couples or maybe<br />

just a day trip. Located one<br />

hour from Brisbane, Straddie is<br />

easily accessible by Stradbroke<br />

Ferries’ fast reliable vehicle<br />

ferries or water taxi which<br />

depart from Cleveland.<br />

Stradbroke Island Holidays<br />

offer an efficient booking<br />

service to arrange all of your<br />

accommodation and luxury<br />

Stradbroke Ferry transfers to<br />

and from North Stradbroke<br />

Island.<br />

P: 07 3821 0266<br />

www.stradbrokeholidays.com.au<br />

KIAMA COVE MOTEL<br />

10 Bong Bong St, Kiama<br />

Kiama Cove Motel is located in<br />

the heart of Kiama, overlooking<br />

Surf Beach with most rooms<br />

having ocean views, airconditioning<br />

and king sized<br />

beds. All with complimentary<br />

continental breakfasts.<br />

Proximity: Right on Kiama<br />

Beach. Short walk to the main<br />

street of Kiama.<br />

Phone: 02 4232 3000<br />

E: kiamacove@bigpond.com<br />

www.kiamacove.com.au<br />

From $99-$169 per room<br />

per night<br />

SILVERWATER RESORT<br />

17 Potters Hill Rd, San Remo<br />

Spacious one, two and<br />

three-bedroom self-contained<br />

apartments all with spectacular<br />

bay views and modern<br />

conveniences. Complementing<br />

the 4.5 star accommodation<br />

is an excellent range of resort<br />

facilities including indoor<br />

and outdoor pool, billiards<br />

and games room, tennis and<br />

basketball courts, restaurant<br />

and bar.<br />

Proximity: Five mins to surf<br />

beach, two mins to town<br />

Phone: 1800 033 403<br />

res@silverwaterresort.com.au<br />

www.silverwaterresort.com.au<br />

From $175 per night<br />

TV<br />

gym<br />

laundry<br />

kitchen<br />

parking wi-fi pool airconditioning family-friendly pet-friendly spa<br />

bbq<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

189


SURF DIRECTORY<br />

Pick up the next edition of smorgasboarder at any of these fine businesses - out in March.<br />

Businesses that advertise in smorgasboarder allow us to bring you the magazine for FREE. So, be sure to support them!<br />

QLD CENTRAL COAST<br />

REEF 2 BEACH SURF SHOP 07 4974 9072<br />

Shop 1, 10 Round Hill Road Agnes<br />

Water/1770 www.reef2beachsurf.com<br />

SUNSHINE COAST<br />

NOOSA SURF WORKS 07 5474 4567<br />

1/11 Bartlett St, Noosaville www.<br />

shotgunsurf.com www.lagunabaysurf.com<br />

WATERLINE 07 5474 1010 - 2/15 Venture Dr,<br />

Noosaville, www.zeewetsuits.com<br />

ILLUSIONS NOOSA 0488 686 206<br />

2/2 Venture Dve, Noosaville & Shop 28<br />

Sunshine Beach Rd, Noosa Junction<br />

www.illusionsnoosa.com.au<br />

CLASSIC MALIBU AUSTRALIA 07 5474 3122<br />

Cnr Gibson and Eumundi Rds, Noosaville,<br />

www.classicmalibu.com<br />

ADVENTURE SPORTS NOOSA 07 5455 6677<br />

Shop 6A, 203 Gympie Terrace, Noosaville<br />

www.kitesurfaustralia.com.au<br />

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE 07 5474 1222<br />

3 Gibson Rd, Noosaville<br />

GOLDEN BREED 07 5455 3722 - 15 Noosa Dr,<br />

Noosa Heads, www.goldenbreed.com.au<br />

NOOSA LONGBOARDS 07 5447 2828<br />

2/55 Hastings St, Noosa Heads<br />

www.noosalongboards.com<br />

UNDERGROUND NOOSA<br />

3/77 Noosa Drive, Noosa Heads<br />

www.undergroundsurf.com.au<br />

SURF SHOP 07 5471 3489 - 224 David Low<br />

Way, Peregian Beach, www.surf-shop.org<br />

COOLUM SURF 07 5351 1742 - Birtwill St<br />

Coolum Beach www.alexsurfshop.com.au<br />

BLUE LINES 07 5351 1986 - 1776 The<br />

Esplanade, Coolum Beach<br />

WALLY’S WATER GALLERY 07 5448 8560<br />

6 Lorraine Beach, Marcoola Beach<br />

BOARDSTORE SURF 07 5448 7025<br />

15 Mudjimba Esp, Mudjimba<br />

WEIR’S INSIDE EDGE 07 5443 4143<br />

14 Memorial Ave, Maroochydore<br />

DA BOMB 07 5451 0620 - 3/25 Plaza Pde,<br />

Maroochydore & 07 5437 9201 - 7/12<br />

Thunderbird Dr, Bokarina<br />

www.dabombsurf.com.au<br />

OCEAN ADDICTS 07 53<strong>09</strong> 6624 -<br />

103-105 Aerodrome Rd, Maroochydore<br />

www.oceanaddicts.com.au<br />

ALTERNATIVE SURF 07 5475 4811<br />

11/140 Alexandra Pde, Alexandra Headland<br />

BEACH BEAT 07 5443 2777 - 164 Alexandra<br />

Pde, Alexandra Headlands; 07 5491 4711<br />

119 Bulcock St, Caloundra<br />

www.beachbeat.com.au<br />

ALEX SURF 07 5452 6276<br />

188 Alexandra Pde, Alexandra Headland<br />

www.alexsurf.com.au<br />

WORLD SURFARIS 1800 611 163<br />

2/174 Brisbane Rd, Mooloolaba<br />

www.worldsurfaris.com<br />

THE FACTORY 07 5492 5838 - 15 Allen St,<br />

Caloundra thefactorysurf.com.au<br />

SLS SURFBOARDS 0424 314 183<br />

2/57 George St, Moffat Beach<br />

www.slssurfboards.com.au<br />

SURFWARE AUSTRALIA 07 5491 3620<br />

2 Bulcock St, Caloundra<br />

BRISBANE<br />

PRIMITIVE SURF 07 3266 1001 - 601<br />

Nudgee Rd, Nundah primitivesurf.com<br />

GOODTIME SURF & SAIL 07 3391 8588<br />

29 Ipswich Rd, Wooloongabba<br />

www.goodtime.com.au<br />

FIIK Unit 2/3366 Pacific Hwy, Springwood<br />

www.fiikskateboards.com<br />

COD 07 3207 0116 - 51 Ziegenfusz Rd,<br />

Thornlands www.codsurfing.com.au<br />

N TH STRADBROKE ISLAND<br />

MINTY SURFBOARDS 07 34<strong>09</strong> 8334 - Point<br />

Lookout www.bobmintysurfboards.com<br />

GOLD COAST<br />

KOMA SURFBOARDS 0402 863 763<br />

4/39 Bailey Crs, Southport komasurf.com<br />

SURF FX 07 5531 3199 - 127 Ferry Road,<br />

Southport www.surf-fx.com<br />

SIDEWAYS 07 5592 3849 - 3012 Surfers Blvd,<br />

Surfers Paradise sidewaysboardsports.com.au<br />

STUART SURF DESIGN 07 5572 0<strong>09</strong>8<br />

2576 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach<br />

www.stuartsurf.com.au<br />

GANGSTA SURF 07 5526 6969 - Shop 1/<br />

2558 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach<br />

www.gangstasurf.com<br />

BOARD CULTURE 07 5572 9866<br />

2442 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach<br />

www.boardculture.com.au<br />

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE 07 5526 6377<br />

2251 Gold Coast Hwy, Nobby Beach<br />

THE BOARDROOM 07 5527 7877<br />

2084 Gold Coast Hwy, Miami<br />

HARVEY SURF GALLERY 0414 557 624<br />

3/10 Pacific Ave, Miami www.harveysurf.com<br />

MT WOODGEE 07 5535 0288<br />

1730 Gold Coast Hwy, Burleigh Heads<br />

07 5598 2188 - 2 Stewart Rd, Currumbin<br />

07 5536 5937 - 122 Griffith St, Coolangatta<br />

www.mtwoodgee.com.au<br />

PATAGONIA BURLEIGH James Street,<br />

Burleigh Heads www.patagonia.com.au<br />

SEAN SCOTT PHOTOGRAPHY 07 5520 2774<br />

Old Burleigh Theatre Arcade, Shop 10,<br />

Goodwin Tce, Burleigh Heads<br />

07 5599 1150 - Shop 3, 120 Marine Pde,<br />

Coolangatta seanscottphotography.com.au<br />

DICK VAN STRAALEN/ CLASSIC WATERMAN<br />

04<strong>09</strong> 262 729, 7/3 Ramly Dr, Burleigh Hds<br />

dickvanstraalen.com, classicwaterman.com<br />

DALE CHAPMAN SURF DESIGNS 07 5593 8411<br />

Unit 3/48 Junction Road, Burleigh Heads<br />

www.chapmansurfboards.com<br />

SOUTHCOAST FOAM 07 5522 1600 - 15<br />

Greg Chappell Dr, Burleigh Gdns Estate,<br />

Andrews www.southcoastfoam.com.au<br />

GOLD COAST SURF WORLD 07 5525 6380<br />

Tomewin Street, Currumbin<br />

www.surfworldgoldcoast.com<br />

FIREWIRE SURFBOARDS 07 5587 7700<br />

1/49 Currumbin Creek Rd Currumbin<br />

www.firewiresurfboards.com<br />

DMS 07 5559 5949 3/56 Currumbin Creek<br />

Rd Currumbin www.dmshapes.com<br />

D’ARCY HANDSHAPES 07 5559 5866<br />

1/8 Hawker St, Currumbin<br />

www.darcysurfboards.com<br />

SHAPERS 07 5534 4228 - 9/7 Traders Way,<br />

Currumbin www.shapers.com.au<br />

BURFORD REINFORCED PLASTICS<br />

07 5534 3777 - 5 Stewart Rd, Currumbin<br />

WOODY JACK SURFBOARDS<br />

0415 789 706 - 7/25 Leonard Pde, Currumbin<br />

DIVERSE SURF 07 5598 4848 - 476 Gold<br />

Coast Hwy Tugun www.diversesurf.com.au<br />

DORRINGTON SURFBOARDS 07 5599 4030<br />

16 Musgrave Street, Kirra<br />

www.dorringtonsurfboards.com<br />

KIRRA SURF/WORLD SURFARIS 07 5536 3922<br />

8 Creek St, Bilinga www.kirrasurf.com.au<br />

UNDERGROUND SURF 07 5599 1040<br />

Shop 3/31 McLean St, Coolangatta<br />

www.undergroundsurf.com.au<br />

COOLANGATTA BOARD STORE 07 5536 7850<br />

152 Griffith St, Coolangatta<br />

www.cbsboardstore.com<br />

COOLY SURF 07 5536 1470 - Cnr Dutton St<br />

& Marine Pde, Coolangatta<br />

NSW NORTH COAST<br />

SIDEWAYS 07 5524 6699 - 13-21 Greenway Dr,<br />

Tweed Heads sidewaysboardsports.com.au<br />

FULL FORCE SURFBOARDS 07 5524 2933<br />

18/48 Machinery Dve,Tweed Heads<br />

SURF XCESS 02 6674 5350<br />

88 Marine Parade, Kingscliff<br />

CABARITA SURF SHOP 02 6676 3151<br />

1/38 Tweed Coast Rd, Cabarita Beach<br />

ELUSIV SURFBOARDS<br />

3/16 Coast Rd, Cabarita Beach<br />

BRUNSWICK SURF 02 6685 1283<br />

1/12 The Terrace, Brunswick Heads<br />

www.brunswicksurf.com.au<br />

McTAVISH 02 6680 8807 - 91 Centenial<br />

Circuit, Byron Bay www.mctavish.com.au<br />

ESP SURFBOARDS 0404 059 321 - 2/81 Centennial<br />

Circuit, Byron Bay www.espsurfshop.com.au<br />

PARKES AUSTRALIA 02 6685 6627<br />

4/83 Centennial Court, Byron Bay<br />

www.parkesaustralia.com<br />

MADDOG SURF CENTRE 02 6685 6022<br />

Ewingsdale Rd, Byron Bay maddog.com.au<br />

MC SURF DESIGNS 02 6685 8778 - 3 Banksia<br />

Drive, Byron Bay www.mcsurf.com.au<br />

MUNRO SURFBOARDS 02 6685 6211 - 29 Acacia<br />

St, Byron Bay munrosurfboards.com.au<br />

T&C SURF DESIGN / McCOY 02 6685 7485<br />

10 Acacia Street, Byron Bay<br />

BYRON BAY LONGBOARDS 02 6685 5244<br />

Shop 1 - 89 Jonson St, Byron Bay<br />

MADDOG BEACH SURF CENTRE 02 6685 6466<br />

4 Jonson St, Byron Bay www.maddog.com.au<br />

HO’OKUPU 02 6685 8861 - 2/9 Lawson St,<br />

Byron Bay hookupusurf.com<br />

UNPLUGGED 02 6685 7441 - Shop 1/ 2 Lawson<br />

St, Byron Bay www.unpluggedbyronbay.com<br />

LENNOX HEAD SURF SHOP 02 6687 7038<br />

71 Ballina St, Lennox Head<br />

ALL ABOVE BOARD 02 6687 7522<br />

68 Ballina St, Lennox Head<br />

MADDOG SURF CENTRE 02 6685 6<strong>09</strong>4<br />

45 River St, Ballina www.maddog.com.au<br />

TRIPLE X WETSUITS 02 6686 3939 - 10 Piper<br />

Drive, Ballina www.triple-x.com.au<br />

GUNTHER ROHN 02 6681 5879 - 3/10 Piper<br />

Drive, Ballina www.guntherrohn.com<br />

THE PLANK SHOP 02 6645 8362 Top of the<br />

Hill, Yamba<br />

NSW MID NORTH COAST<br />

GANGSTA SURF<br />

1/15 Orlando Street, Coffs Harbour<br />

FLANAGAN SURFBOARDS 0432 361 694<br />

Unit 26, 22 Lawson Cres, Coffs Harbour<br />

www.flanagansurfboards.com<br />

WATER SURF+ART+CAFE<br />

Distinctively relaxed<br />

atmosphere, exceptional<br />

food, coffee and tea, great<br />

service, photographic<br />

art from Australia’s best<br />

photographers, exquisite<br />

gifts and select surfwear and<br />

boards.<br />

(02) 6651 4500<br />

370 Harbour Drive, Coffs<br />

Harbour Jetty<br />

www.watersurfartcafe.com<br />

THE LOG SHACK 02 6658 0223 - 392 Harbour<br />

Dve, The Jetty Strip, Coffs Harbour<br />

www.thelogshack.com.au<br />

OUTER ISLAND SURFBOARDS 02 6655 7007<br />

7 Bayldon Dr, Raleigh<br />

www.outerislandsurfboards.com<br />

VALLA SURFBOARDS 02 6568 89<strong>09</strong><br />

8 Monro St, Nambucca Heads<br />

www.vallasurfboards.com.au<br />

COASTAL CURVES 02 6568 6902 - Ridge St,<br />

Nambucca Heads www.coastalcurves.com<br />

CRESCENT HEAD SURF CO. 02 6562 8306<br />

33 Smith St, Kempsey<br />

CRESCENT HEAD SURF SHOP 02 6566 0550<br />

Crescent Head Tavern, Crescent Head<br />

CRESO EXPRESSO 4 Shore Holiday Park,<br />

Crescent Head<br />

INNER VISION SURF ‘N’ SKATE 02 6583 7790<br />

80 William St, Port Macquarie<br />

SALTWATER WINE 02 6584 4877<br />

1/125 Gordon St, Port Macquarie<br />

www.saltwaterwine.com.au<br />

SANDY FEET 02 6584 1995<br />

5/21 Clarence St, Port Macquarie<br />

www.sandyfeetsurf.com.au<br />

JUNGLE SURF 02 6555 8556 - 86 Manning<br />

Street, Tuncurry www.junglesurf.com.au<br />

SALTWATER WINE 02 6554 7979 5 Wharf St,<br />

Forster www.saltwaterwine.com.au<br />

BOOMERANG BEACH SURF 02 6554 0351<br />

Shop 4, Boomerang Dve, Pacific Palms<br />

GRAFFITI SURF DESIGNS 02 4981 34<strong>09</strong><br />

43 Donald St, Nelson Bay, Newcastle<br />

NEWCASTLE<br />

NEWCASTLE SURF DESIGNS 02 4968 9989<br />

4 Maitland Rd, Mayfield<br />

SAM EGAN SURFBOARDS 02 4969 7299<br />

28 Maitland Rd, Islington<br />

www.samegan.com.au<br />

SURF FACTORY 16 Maitland Rd, Islington<br />

www.thesurffactory.com.au<br />

MARK RICHARDS SURFSHOP 02 4961 3088<br />

755 Hunter St, Newcastle<br />

www.markrichardssurfboards.com<br />

SURFHOUSE PHOTOGRAPHY 61 Hunter St,<br />

Newcastle surfhousephotography.com<br />

BREAKAWAY SURF 02 4929 1144 - Shop 6<br />

Hunter Street Mall, Newcastle<br />

PACIFIC DREAMS 02 4926 3355 - 7 Darby St,<br />

Newcastle www.pacificdreams.com.au<br />

SANBAH SURF 02 4962 2420 - Shop 27, The<br />

Junction Fair, Union St, Newcastle<br />

www.sanbah.com.au<br />

BREAKAWAY SURF CO. 02 4943 2699<br />

181 Pacific Hwy Charlestown<br />

EGAN’S 02 4945 8055<br />

575 Pacific Hwy, Belmont<br />

THE SURF SHACK 02 4945 8965<br />

703 Pacific Hwy, Belmont South<br />

SWANSEA SURF SHOP 02 4971 4422<br />

164 Pacific Hwy, Swansea swanseasurf.com.au<br />

CENTRAL COAST<br />

BEACHIN’ SURF 02 43 96 5159<br />

262 Main Rd, Toukley<br />

BOARD CITY 02 4397 1<strong>09</strong>2 - 150 Main Rd,<br />

Toukley www.boardcity.com.au<br />

ADRIFT SURF 02 4332 8355 - 133 The Entrance<br />

Rd, The Entrance www.adriftsurf.com.au<br />

BOARDERLINE SURF SKATE 02 4332 7175<br />

421 The Entrance Rd, Long Jetty<br />

www.boarderlinesurfskate.com<br />

SURFERS CHOICE 02 4334 6532<br />

473 The Entrance Rd, Long Jetty<br />

www.surferschoice.com.au<br />

BATEAU BAY SURF N SPORT 02 4332 1157<br />

101a Bateau Bay Road, Bateau Bay<br />

ONE EIGHTY SURF COMPANY 02 4385 8440<br />

Shop 2, 82a Ocean View Dve, Wamberal<br />

www.180surfco.com.au<br />

ALPINE BEACH 02 4367 4944<br />

177 The Entrance Road, Erina<br />

www.alpinebeach.com.au<br />

SLIMES 02 4365 5511<br />

1/203 The Entrance Rd, Erina<br />

THREE POINTS SURF 02 4382 1541<br />

170 Avoca Dve, Avoca Beach<br />

NORTHERN BEACHES<br />

BEACH WITHOUT SAND 02 9918 2763<br />

1a Nth Avalon Rd, Avalon<br />

RAISED BY WOLVES 02 9918 8861 - 40 Old<br />

Barrenjoey Rd, Avalon, 02 9997 4838<br />

Shop 3, 8-10 Waratah St, Mona Vale<br />

www.raisedbywolves.com.au<br />

LITTLE DRAGON 0403 974 967<br />

1 Bramley Lane, Newport Beach<br />

RON WADE SURF DESIGN 02 9979 7071<br />

23 Bassett Street, Mona Vale<br />

ronwadesurfboards.com.au<br />

CHANNEL ISLAND SURFBOARDS 02 9997 8266<br />

4/76 Darly St, Mona Vale cisurfboards.com<br />

QUIKSILVER MONA VALE 02 9999 3727<br />

1729 Pitt Water Rd, Mona Vale<br />

DIVISION SURF 02 9979 5334<br />

Cnr Bungan & Waratah Sts, Mona Vale,<br />

divisionsurf.com.au<br />

SUPER SWELL 02 9144 3229<br />

166 Mona Vale Rd, St Ives<br />

STAND UP PADDLE GEAR AUSTRALIA<br />

02 9986 3420 6/53 Myora Rd, Terrey Hills<br />

www.supgearaustralia.com<br />

BALMORAL BOARDS 02 9970 8600<br />

1228 Pittwater Rd, Narrabeen<br />

www.balmoralboards.com.au<br />

WICKS SURF CENTRE 02 9971 0760<br />

1103 Pittwater Road, Collaroy Beach<br />

LONG REEF SURF 02 9982 4829<br />

1012 Pittwater Rd, Collaroy<br />

www.longreefsurf.com.au<br />

WIND SURF ’N’ SNOW 02 9971 <strong>09</strong>99<br />

17 Anzac Ave, Collaroy<br />

www.windsurfnsnow.com.au<br />

THE PERFECT WAVE 02 9939 0890<br />

Suite 38, 42-46 Wattle Rd Brookvale<br />

www.theperfectwave.com.au<br />

BENNETT SURFBOARDS 02 9905 5157<br />

180 Harbord Rd, Brookvale<br />

DRIPPING WET SURF CO. 02 9977 3549<br />

398 Pittwater Rd, Mona Vale;<br />

02 9977 3549 - 93 North Steyne, Manly<br />

www.dripwetsurf.com<br />

SUNSHINE SURFING 02 9977 4399 - 89 Pittwater<br />

Rd, Manly www.sunshinesurfing.com.au<br />

ALOHA MANLY STYLE 02 9977 3777<br />

44 Pittwater Rd, Manly<br />

www.alohasurfmanly.com.au<br />

MANLY SURFBOARDS 02 9976 0591 - 46 North<br />

Steyne Rd, Manly www.basesurfboards.com<br />

SALTMOTION 02 9976 6518 Market Place,<br />

Manly www.saltmotion.com<br />

MANLY LONGBOARD CO. 02 9977 0<strong>09</strong>3<br />

39 Belgrave St, Manly manlylongboard.com<br />

SURFECTION 02 9969 1011 - 522 Military<br />

Rd, Mosman www.surfectionmosman.com<br />

SYDNEY<br />

PATAGONIA 93 Bathurst St, Sydney<br />

www.patagonia.com.au<br />

BONDI UNDERGROUND 02 9365 0870<br />

2/72 Campbell Pde, Bondi Beach<br />

DRIPPING WET SURF CO. 02 9300 0055 180-<br />

186 Campbell Parade Bondi Beach<br />

SURF CULTURE 02 9389 5477 - 40 Bronte Rd,<br />

Bondi Junction www.surfculture.com.au<br />

MAROUBRA SURF AND SKATE 02 9344 4250<br />

198 Marine Parade Maroubra<br />

EASTCOAST STAND UP PADDLE<br />

Dedicated to SUP - Sydney’s<br />

original Stand Up Paddle<br />

outlet. Performance,<br />

flatwater, race, and distance<br />

boards – we have a board to<br />

suit all skill levels.<br />

0413 4560<strong>09</strong><br />

0418 294854<br />

27 Throsby Close<br />

Barden Ridge<br />

eastcoaststanduppaddle.com.au<br />

LESSONS TOURS AND SALES<br />

Call Peter Japp on<br />

0488 887 SUP<br />

or<br />

0488 88 77 87<br />

sutherlandshiresupschool.com.au<br />

190 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


CRONULLA STANDUP PADDLEBOARD<br />

Everything to do with S.U.P<br />

Lessons, Hire, Sales of<br />

New and Used equipment,<br />

Accesories, Apparel & more<br />

02 9544 2293<br />

0400 085 823<br />

Shop 3,13-15 The Kingsway<br />

Cronulla, NSW 2230<br />

www.cronullasup.com<br />

CRONULLA SUTHERLAND<br />

JACKSON SURFBOARDS 02 9524 2700<br />

57 Captain Cook Drive, Caringbah<br />

www.jacksonsurfboards.com.au<br />

TRIPLE BULL 02 9524 4822 - 41 Captain Cook<br />

Dr, Caringbah; 02 9544 0354 - 23 Kingsway,<br />

Cronulla www.triplebullsurf.com<br />

CRONULLA SURF DESIGN 02 9544 0433<br />

8 Cronulla St, Cronulla<br />

www.cronullasurfdesign.com.au<br />

KING SURFBOARDS 02 9521 3645<br />

577 Princes Hwy, Kirrawee<br />

WOLLONGONG<br />

RETRO WOMBAT 02 4267 1322<br />

228 Lawrence Hargrave Dve, Thirroul<br />

www.retrowombat.com<br />

FINBOX BOARDSTORE 02 4268 2050<br />

1/269 Lawrence Hargrave Dve, Thirroul<br />

thefinbox.blogspot.com<br />

BYRNE SURF AND SKI 02 4268 3455<br />

303 Lawrence Hargrave Dve, Thirroul<br />

02 4226 1122 -115 Princes Highway, Fairy<br />

Meadow byrnesurfboardsaustralia.com<br />

SURF PIT 02 4283 7196 - 2/100 Railway St,<br />

Corrimal www.surfpit.com.au<br />

SKIPP SURFBOARDS 02 4229 1202<br />

231 Crown Street, Wollongong<br />

(factory showroom); 02 4228 8878<br />

24 Flinders St, Wollongong<br />

www.skippsurfboards.com.au<br />

CARABINE SURF DESIGNS 02 4229 9462<br />

36 Flinders St, Wollongong<br />

NSW SOUTH COAST<br />

SHELLHARBOUR SURF & SKATE 02 4295 3373<br />

1/16B Addison St, Shellharbour<br />

ZINK SURF 02 4233 1189 - 136 Terralong St,<br />

Kiama www.zinksurf.com.au<br />

NATURAL NECESSITY SURF SHOP 02 4234 1636<br />

115 Fern St, Gerringong www.nnss.com.au<br />

AQUATIQUE 02 4421 8159 - 125-127 Junction<br />

St, Nowra; 02 4441 5530 - 55 Owen St,<br />

Huskisson www.aquatique.com.au<br />

BUSTED SURF CO. 02 4447 3485<br />

10 Fairlands St, Culburra Beach<br />

OCEAN & EARTH 02 4441 2482<br />

12 Springs Rd, Sussex Inlet<br />

www.oceanearth.com<br />

SUN & SURF SHOP 02 4441 1938<br />

Shop 1, 168 Jacobs Dve, Sussex Inlet<br />

MARK RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN 0427 767 176<br />

441A Bendalong Rd, Bendalong<br />

www.markrabbidge.com<br />

AKWA SURF 02 4454 5222 - Shop 1,<br />

Mellick’s Corner, Princess Hwy, Milton<br />

www.akwasurf.com.au<br />

SOUTHERN MAN SURF SHOP<br />

02 4454 0343 -138 Princes Hwy, Ulladulla<br />

www.southernman.com.au<br />

SALTWATER DREAM 02 4472 3811<br />

2 Bay Central, Batemans Bay<br />

OFFSHORE SURF SHOP 02 4474 4350<br />

66 Vulcan St, Moruya offshoresurf.com.au<br />

NAROOMA SURF & SKATE 02 4476 1422<br />

30 Princes Hwy, Narooma<br />

DSC SURFBOARDS 0424 867 962<br />

Princes Highway, Narooma<br />

BERMAGUI SURF SHOP 02 6493 4849<br />

4/28 Lamont St, Bermagui<br />

RAW SURFBOARDS 02 6494 4466<br />

1291 Tathra Road, Kalaru<br />

www.rawsurfboards.com.au<br />

BUSHRAT SURFBOARDS - 02 6495 9900<br />

Widgeram Rd, Merimbula www.bushrat.com<br />

MERIMBULA SURF SHOP 02 6495 1515<br />

Merimbula Drive, Merimbula<br />

SALTWATER DREAM 02 6495 1600<br />

39 Market St, Merimbula<br />

COUNTRY VIC<br />

SURF SHACK 03 5155 4933<br />

507 Esplanade, Lakes Entrance<br />

ATOLL TRAVEL 1800 622 310 - 4 Bridge<br />

Street, Foster www.atolltravel.com<br />

SERIOUS SURF STUFF 03 5674 2540<br />

1 Williams St , Inverloch<br />

VORTEX SURF & SKATE 03 5672 4112<br />

54 McBride Ave, Wonthaggi<br />

PHILLIP ISLAND<br />

OUTEREEF 03 5678 5677 - 73 Phillip Island<br />

Rd, San Remo www.outereef.com.au<br />

FULLCIRCLE SURF 03 5678 5873<br />

115 Marine Pde, San Remo; 03 5956 7453<br />

4-5 Vista Pl, Cape Woolamai<br />

www.fullcirclesurf.com.au<br />

ISLANTIS 03 5956 7553 - 10-12 Phillip<br />

Island Rd, Newhaven www.islantis.com.au<br />

ISLAND SURF CENTRE 03 5952 2578<br />

147 Thompson Ave, Cowes; 03 5952 3443<br />

65 Smiths Beach Rd, Smiths Beach<br />

www.islandsurfboards.com.au<br />

ISLAND SURF SHACK 03 5952 1659<br />

148 Thompson Ave, Cowes<br />

MELBOURNE<br />

ZAK SURFBOARDS 03 9416 7384<br />

319 Victoria Rd, Thornbury<br />

www.zaksurfboards.com<br />

TRIGGER BROS SURF & SAIL 03 9537 3222<br />

Shop 2, 1 St Kilda Rd, St Kilda<br />

www.triggerbros.com.au<br />

RPS (THE BOARD STORE) 03 9525 6475<br />

87 Ormond Rd, Elwood<br />

www.rpstheboardstore.com<br />

BRIGHTON SURF CO. 03 9593 2211<br />

43 Church St, Brighton<br />

SHQ BOARDSPORTS 03 9598 2867<br />

81 Beach Rd, Sandringham www.shq.com.au<br />

MORDY SURF CENTRE 03 9580 1716<br />

628 Main St, Mordialloc mordysurf.com.au<br />

PAULOWNIA SURFBOARD SUPPLIES<br />

03 9588 2533 - 45 Governor Road,<br />

Mordialloc paulowniaparadise.com.au<br />

OKE SURFBOARDS 03 9587 3553<br />

Factory 1 1-7 Canterbury Rd, Braeside<br />

www.okesurfboards.com<br />

TRIGGER BROS SURF & SAIL 03 9770 2223<br />

7 Rossmith St, Frankston; 03 5989 8402<br />

Point Leo Rd, Point Leo; 03 5984 5670<br />

46 Ocean Beach Rd, Sorrento<br />

www.triggerbros.com.au<br />

PENINSULA SURF CENTRE 03 9783 3811<br />

40 Wells St, Frankston; 03 5975 1800<br />

835 Nepean Hwy, Mornington;<br />

03 5985 4637 - 2137 Pt Nepean Hwy, Rye<br />

www.peninsulasurf.com.au<br />

BALIN 03 5986 6069 - 12 Newington Ave,<br />

Rosebud www.balin.com.au<br />

BEAN SURFING 03 5984 5199<br />

4 Ocean Beach Rd, Sorrento<br />

VIC SURF COAST<br />

MURFS LONGBOARDS 03 5255 5525<br />

82 The Terrace, Ocean Grove<br />

www.murfslongboards.com.au<br />

STRAPPER SURF 03 5255 2666<br />

67b The Terrace, Ocean Grove<br />

www.strapper.com.au<br />

STONKER TORQUAY 03 5261 6077 - 1a Baines<br />

Cr, Torquay www.stonker.com.au<br />

HYDROPHILIC 0421 504 621 - 1C Baines Cr,<br />

Torquay www.southcoastlongboards.com.au<br />

SURF WORLD 03 5261 4606 Surf City Plaza,<br />

Torquay www.surfworld.org.au<br />

PATAGONIA 03 5261 4420 - 116 Surfcoast<br />

Hwy, Torquay www.patagonia.com.au<br />

TORQUAY SURF 03 5261 5666 - 3/108<br />

Surfcoast Hwy, Torquay<br />

STRAPPER 03 5261 3508 - 96 Surfcoast Hwy,<br />

Torquay; 03 5261 2312 - 106 Surfcoast Hwy,<br />

Torquay www.strapper.com.au<br />

WATERMARKS PHOTO GALLERY 03 5264 7232<br />

38-40 Bell Street, Torquay<br />

www.watermarksphotogallery.com.au<br />

TIGERFISH 03 5264 7271 - 12/15 Bell St,<br />

Torquay www.tigerfish.com.au<br />

ANGLESEA SURF CENTRE 03 5263 1530<br />

111 Great Ocean Rd, Anglesea www.<br />

secondhandsurfboards.com.au<br />

LORNE SURF SHOP 03 5289 1673<br />

130 Mountjoy Pde, Lorne<br />

HODGY’S SURF CENTRE 03 5237 7883<br />

143 Great Ocean Rd, Apollo Bay hodgys.com<br />

SHIPWRECK COAST<br />

PORT CAMPBELL TRADING CO. 03 5598 6444<br />

27 Lord Street, Port Campbell<br />

WARRNAMBOOL SURF CENTRE 03 5562 1981<br />

136 Koroit Street, Warrnambool<br />

SPOONS 03 5568 3452<br />

42 Sackville Street, Port Fairy<br />

TASMANIA<br />

LONG POINT SURF 03 6375 1717<br />

60 Burgess Street, Bicheno<br />

BAY SURF SHOP 03 6376 1755<br />

2 Pendrigh Place, St Helens TAS<br />

SCAMANDER BEACH SURFSHOP 03 6372 5529<br />

6 Lagoon Esplanade, Scamander<br />

www.scamandersurf.com<br />

RED HERRING www.redherringsurf.com.au<br />

03 6231 9001 - 75 Liverpool Street, Hobart<br />

03 6431 2455 - 12 Mount Street, Burnie<br />

03 6331 <strong>09</strong>84 - 127 Charles Street, Launceston<br />

03 6272 7552 - Shop 41, Northgate<br />

SOUTH AUSTRALIA<br />

BARREL SURF 08 8555 5422 - 10c Cadell St,<br />

Goolwa www.barrellsurf.com.au<br />

FLY BOARDRIDING (08) 8555 5331<br />

Shop 18, Goolwa Shopping Centre, Goolwa<br />

BIG SURF AUSTRALIA 08 8554 2399<br />

24 Goolwa Rd, Middleton<br />

SOUTHERN SURF 08 8554 2375<br />

36 North Tce, Port Elliot<br />

THE SURF SHOP 08 8552 5466 -15 Albert<br />

Place, Victor Harbor thesurfshop.net.au<br />

SURF ESTEEM 08 8557 7201 - Aldinga Central<br />

Shopping Centre www.surfesteem.com<br />

THE DING KING / CLARK SURFBOARDS<br />

0422 443 789 - 20 Cottage Road, Hackham<br />

leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au<br />

PREECE’S SOUTH PORT SURF 08 8386 0404<br />

159 Esplanade, Port Noarlunga South<br />

www.preece-sthport-surf.com.au<br />

FLY BOARDRIDING 08 8386 0100<br />

Shop 41 Seaford Shopping Centre<br />

www.flyboardriding.com.au<br />

ONBOARD SURF WIND SNOW 08 8294 3866<br />

21 Saltfleet St, Port Noarlunga; 1-3 Lights<br />

Landing, Holdfast Shores, Glenelg<br />

www.onboardsurf.com.au<br />

MV2 08 8382 2468<br />

36 Beach Road, Christies Beach<br />

CUTLOOSE SURF<br />

The largest range of surfboards, mals,<br />

SUP’s, wetsuits & 2nd hand boards<br />

is SA with over 300 boards in stock.<br />

Custom boards and SA’s cheapest<br />

ding repairs on site. 30 years and still<br />

going strong…<br />

OPEN 7 DAYS - 08 8326 <strong>09</strong>39<br />

4 Piping Lane, Lonsdale, SA, 5160<br />

www.cutloosesurf.com.au<br />

MID COAST SURF 08 83845522 - 8/200 Dyson<br />

Road, Lonsdale www.midcoastsurf.com.au<br />

ISLAND SURF 08 8296 9776<br />

363 Brighton Road Hove<br />

EXTREME BOARDRIDERS 08 8295 1219<br />

1/118 Jetty Rd, Glenelg<br />

JRS SURF & SKI 08 838 47466 - Centro<br />

Colonnades; 08 8377 0322 - Westfield<br />

Marion; 08 8223 5505 -121 Grenfell St,<br />

Adelaide CBD; 08 8231 9577 - Myer<br />

Centre, Adelaide CBD; 08 8396 4822<br />

Tea Tree Plus www.jrssurfandski.com.au<br />

WALLBRIDGE SURFBOARDS 08 8376 4914<br />

27 Oaklands Rd, Somerton Park<br />

www.wallbridge.com.au<br />

SNOW & SURF CO. 08 8223 5277<br />

187 Rundle St, Adelaide; 08 8332 <strong>09</strong>00<br />

177 The Parade, Norwood<br />

www.snowsurf.com.au<br />

MTB SURF 08 8391 3311 Mount Barker<br />

YORKES SURF 08 8854 4008 Marion Bay<br />

DING REPAIRS<br />

AGNES WATER/1770<br />

REEF 2 BEACH<br />

(Mon – Sat, 9-5pm, Sun,10-4pm)<br />

07 4974 9072<br />

MAROOCHYDORE<br />

DA BOMB<br />

(Mon – Sat, 9-5pm, Sun,10-4pm)<br />

07 5451 0620<br />

MOFFAT BEACH<br />

EPOXY BOARD REPAIRS<br />

By appointment<br />

0427 019 420<br />

BRISBANE<br />

PRIMITIVE SURF<br />

(Mon-Fri, 8:30-5:30pm, Thurs<br />

8:30am-8pm, Sat, 8:30-4pm,<br />

Sun, 10-4pm)<br />

07 3266 1001<br />

SOUTHPORT<br />

KOMA<br />

(M-F 9-5pm, Sat 9-12pm)<br />

0402 863 763<br />

MIAMI<br />

DINO’S DING REPAIRS<br />

(M-F 9-5pm, Sat 9-12pm)<br />

04<strong>09</strong> 727 735<br />

TUGUN<br />

DIVERSE<br />

(M-F,8:30-5:30pm, Sat and<br />

Sun, 9-4pm)<br />

07 5598 4848<br />

KIRRA<br />

GRB SURFBOARDS<br />

(M-F 10-4pm, Sat 10-2pm)<br />

0408 701 467<br />

COOLANGATTA<br />

UNDERGROUND SURF<br />

(7 days, 9-5pm)<br />

07 5599 1040<br />

FULL FORCE<br />

(M-F, 9-5pm)<br />

07 5524 2933<br />

BYRON BAY<br />

DR DING SURFBOARD REPAIRS<br />

(Mon-Fri, 8-5pm, Sat 10-4pm,<br />

Sun 10-2pm)<br />

0431 740 940<br />

MC SURF DESIGNS<br />

(M-F 9-5pm, Sat 9-1pm)<br />

02 6685 8778<br />

YAMBA<br />

THE PLANK SHOP<br />

02 6645 8362<br />

TOMBSTONE SURFBOARDS<br />

(Tues-Fri, 9-4pm, Sat, 9-12pm)<br />

0432 330 826<br />

COFFS HARBOUR<br />

THE LOG SHACK<br />

(M-F, 10-5pm, Sat & Sun<br />

10-2:30pm)<br />

02 6658 0223<br />

BUDGEWOI<br />

BUCKO’S SURFBOARD REPAIRS<br />

& RESTORATIONS<br />

(M-F, 10-5.30pm, weekends by<br />

appointment<br />

0422 304 078<br />

LONG JETTY<br />

SANDLOCK SURFBOARDS<br />

(M-F, 9-4pm, Sat 9-12pm)<br />

0437 032 614<br />

WOOLONGONG<br />

SKIPP SURFBOARDS<br />

M-F,9-5:30, Thurs 9-7:30pm,<br />

Sat 9-4, Sun 10-4)<br />

02 4228 8878<br />

JERVIS BAY<br />

INNER FEELING SURFBOARDS<br />

(7 days, 9-5pm)<br />

02 4441 6756<br />

NAROOMA<br />

DSC SURFBOARDS<br />

(7 days, 9-5pm)<br />

0424 867 962<br />

THORNBURY<br />

ZAK SURFBOARDS<br />

(Mon-Fri,10-6pm; Sat 10-5pm)<br />

03 9416 7384<br />

TORQUAY<br />

STONKER TORQUAY<br />

(Mon – Fri, 9-5pm)<br />

03 5261 6077<br />

PHILLIP ISLAND<br />

ISLAND SURF SHOP - COWES<br />

(7 days, 9-5pm)<br />

03 5952 2578<br />

ADELAIDE<br />

WALLBRIDGE SURFBOARDS<br />

(M-F, 9-5.30pm, Sat 9-4pm)<br />

08 8376 4914<br />

SOUTH ADELAIDE<br />

THE DING KING<br />

(M-F, 9-5pm)<br />

0422 443 789<br />

FIX BROKEN BOARDS?<br />

Promote your repair business for $15<br />

an edition. Call 0401 345 201<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

191


SURF<br />

DIRECTORY<br />

UNDERTOW?<br />

FLASH RIPS?<br />

KEEP KIDS<br />

SAFE!<br />

Jordie Brown, Grayme “Gally” Galbraith and Ray McIntosh<br />

AS SEEN<br />

ON TV<br />

ONLY<br />

$39.99<br />

CAN YOU AFFORD<br />

A $50,000<br />

WIPEOUT?<br />

SURF TRAVEL<br />

INSURANCE<br />

from INDO SURF & LINGO<br />

indosurf.com.au<br />

SURF BUSINESS<br />

FOR SALE<br />

www.learn2surfstrap.com<br />

Includes website, stock,<br />

patent, advertising and<br />

marketing material<br />

SELLING UNDER<br />

STOCK VALUATION!<br />

Cheap business. Enquiries<br />

sales@learn2surfstrap.com<br />

FRIENDLY COMPETITION FUNDRAISER<br />

JAN JUC BEACH SAW A SUCCESFUL FUNDRAISING EFFORT AT THE 2011 SURF FEST, WITH A FEW BIG NAME VISITORS TO BOOT.<br />

In late November, Victorian surfers slipped on the<br />

rubber and got in the waves for SURF FEST - a<br />

unique community surfing event organised by Surf<br />

World Museum Torquay and students from the<br />

SEDA education program based in Torquay.<br />

The entire event, run by the students, saw a range<br />

of shortboard, longboard and retro boards dragged<br />

out of the back of cars at the contest including two<br />

Mark Richard’s twins from the seventies.<br />

To add a bit of extra excitement, world champions<br />

Mark Richards, Simon Anderson and Martin Potter<br />

helped make the day even more special for all by<br />

coming along and getting involved.<br />

All funds raised at this year’s SURF FEST went<br />

to the Quiksilver Foundation in support of their<br />

environmental, social and youth programs.<br />

ADVERTISE IN THE<br />

SURF DIRECTORY<br />

Super-affordable rates for<br />

the smallest of budgets.<br />

Call 0401 345 201<br />

Next time you’re in Torquay, make sure to<br />

get your dose of surf history at Surf World<br />

Museum Torquay at Surf City Plaza, Beach Road.<br />

www.surfworld.com.au<br />

LEFT: MR spends some time with the SEDA students<br />

BOTTOM LEFT: Sam Suendermann and Molly Powell<br />

PHOTOS supplied by Surf World Museum Torquay<br />

192 jan/feb <strong>2012</strong>


LOCAL ARTISTS<br />

SKIPP TO IT<br />

THE CREW AT SKIPP SURFBOARDS<br />

RECENTLY HELD A PHOTOGRAPHIC<br />

EXHIBITION TO SHOWCASE<br />

WORKS OF LOCAL PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

ENTHUSIASTS AND TO RAISE<br />

MONEY FOR MOVEMBER.<br />

1.<br />

Each month for seven months local<br />

artists had lodged photos on specific<br />

topics ranging from destinations,<br />

waves, action and the beach.<br />

The exhibition was to exhibit the<br />

winners and their works.<br />

“It is a night to get to know and<br />

support local up and coming<br />

artists whilst raising money for<br />

two fantastic foundations. “said<br />

organiser Chloe Skipp. “Some<br />

artists are as young as 16 years<br />

old. They range from amateur to<br />

professional.”<br />

2.<br />

4.<br />

3.<br />

IMPROVED<br />

QUALITY<br />

BETTER MEMORY<br />

EXTREME<br />

STRETCH<br />

KEEPS ITS<br />

SHAPE LONGER<br />

On the evening popular local<br />

photographer Aaron Hughes and<br />

60s surf photographer Dave Milnes<br />

also exhibited.<br />

Despite torrential rain, the night<br />

was a hit. Over 100 people attended<br />

and raised just over $250 in support<br />

for Movember. From 7pm, attendees<br />

rocked the night away to the sweet<br />

tunes of local girls Las Juanitas and<br />

Wollongong born Swedish singer,<br />

Amanda King. Coopers and Yalumba<br />

wines were in steady supply along<br />

with moustache-shaped short<br />

breads and sushi.<br />

5.<br />

6.<br />

New styles in the<br />

latest superstretch<br />

rubber.<br />

Available<br />

FEB<br />

<strong>2012</strong><br />

Barberista removed numerous<br />

beards and shaped interesting<br />

moustaches on the night for a<br />

donation to the foundation.<br />

For more on Skipp Surfboards in<br />

Wollongong, see the website:<br />

www.skippsurfboards.com.au<br />

7.<br />

Wis years of local experience and ze<br />

‘ighest quality materials, every ZEE<br />

WETSUIT is built to last. Made locally<br />

and 100% Australian owned.<br />

BOTH STORES, SHE<br />

IS OPEN ZEE 6 DAYS!<br />

1. From left: Ryan Crasta, Rick Di<br />

Pietro, Aaron Hughes, Jeremey Sharp<br />

2. Chloé Skipp (Organiser)<br />

3. Josh Skipp<br />

4. Sarah Amadio<br />

5. Wollongong-born now Swedish,<br />

singer Amanda King<br />

6. John Skipp<br />

7. Enjoying the exhibition<br />

8. Photographer for the evening Jose<br />

Martinez (with moustache shortbread)<br />

and exhibiter Aaron Hughes<br />

8.<br />

OPEN HOURS: Mon-Fri: 9 - 5<br />

Sat: 9 - 12<br />

NOOSA: 07 5474 1010<br />

MOOLOOLABA: 07 5444 7007<br />

Unit 2, 15 Venture Drive,<br />

Noosaville, QLD<br />

NEW<br />

STORE!<br />

122 Brisbane Road,<br />

Mooloolaba, QLD<br />

sales@zeewetsuits.com<br />

www.zeewetsuits.com<br />

jan/feb <strong>2012</strong><br />

193


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