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SAIL<br />
+LEISURE TRAVEL<br />
The Moorings’ base in Fethiye is an<br />
hour’s drive from Dalaman Airport in<br />
southwest Turkey and airport transfers are<br />
easy to arrange. At The Moorings’ base, at<br />
the Classic Hotel Marina, charter guests are<br />
permitted to use the wonderful hotel<br />
facilities, including swimming pools, a spa<br />
and restaurants.<br />
The Moorings team gave us a thorough<br />
technical briefing. After finalising the<br />
paperwork, we also had a general briefing<br />
on sailing in the area. We’d plotted a route<br />
beforehand, but the base manager, Deniz,<br />
also shared some great insider tips.<br />
The Moorings offers a full provisioning<br />
service, but we didn’t make use of this as we<br />
like to wander the local markets and buy our<br />
own stock. There’s a full-service marina<br />
complex nearby, offering all sorts of services<br />
and including a supermarket, but some<br />
smaller shops on the main road will also<br />
deliver the items you select to the boat. We<br />
decided to support the locals and use one of<br />
these shops. We found the Turkish people to<br />
be friendly and accommodating, although<br />
English is generally quite limited.<br />
Our friends arrived the next day, after a<br />
long five-hour bus ride from Bodrum. We<br />
loaded them onto the boat and dashed off to<br />
Kapi Creek to make the sunset. It was a<br />
beautiful trip across the bay in warm<br />
Mediterranean winds, passing the many<br />
gulet boats coming back to base. We set up<br />
the tender and took a stern line to a rock. It<br />
was easy to moor the boat with the electric<br />
windless and we dropped anchor in 25m of<br />
water after seeing depths of up to 70m.<br />
Having to use a stern line either tied to a<br />
rock outcrop or a set mooring ring takes<br />
getting used to, but it does help keep the<br />
boat stable. After a few times mooring this<br />
way, we became good at it and each of us<br />
had our job to do when anchoring.<br />
We enjoyed our first of many warm<br />
evenings under a pitch-black sky, and woke<br />
to an idyllic bay of clear waters in which<br />
turtles joined us for an early morning swim.<br />
A lovely old couple on a boat selling freshly<br />
made pancakes and pots of honey also came<br />
by.<br />
We headed off to Ekincik Bay, a long<br />
stretch of motoring for 28 miles. The swell<br />
was big, but we used the sails to stabilise the<br />
boat. Motor sailing works well in preventing<br />
the rocking motion. At Ekincik Bay, we<br />
moored at a jetty stern-in, and received<br />
great guidance from the locals on their<br />
tenders. But the marina was busy and we<br />
were rafted up alongside boats on all sides.<br />
Ekincik offers clean fresh water, neat<br />
moorings, wooden paths, WCs, restaurants<br />
and good recycling facilities, which we<br />
appreciated as recycling is important to us.<br />
We separated our recyclables by setting up<br />
another bag for organic waste in the galley.<br />
We ate at the hilltop restaurant that evening<br />
and enjoyed the most unbelievable views<br />
and seafood, but it was pricey.<br />
I made the most of the calm morning<br />
[next morning?] and went for a lovely<br />
paddle in the clear waters of the bay.<br />
Ekincik Bay is close to a turtle breeding area<br />
and turtle tours are on offer, but July isn’t<br />
breeding season. We could’ve visited the<br />
Dalyan Rock Tombs close to the turtle<br />
sanctuary, but we wanted to hit “the road”.<br />
We decided to sail to the furthest point<br />
of the area first and make our way back to<br />
Fethiye after two weeks. We started with a<br />
fairly long haul of 14 miles to Marmaris, to<br />
stock up on supplies, where we moored off<br />
the main beaches and pier and ran the<br />
tender into town. Mooring in the main<br />
marina was too costly, and The Grand<br />
Bazaar is practical and wraps around a full<br />
city block and we found a well-stocked<br />
supermarket which delivered our groceries<br />
to the quayside in a flatbed tuk-tuk. When it<br />
comes to being helpful, the Turks can’t do<br />
enough for you.<br />
After the noisy market, we needed some<br />
quiet, so we found a beautiful mooring in a<br />
bay on the other side of an island off<br />
Marmaris, called Kuecuekkargi. There we<br />
took in a beautiful pink sunset, listening to<br />
classic tunes and enjoying a “Cin” and Tonic<br />
as our girls sang along to the guitar.<br />
Priceless!<br />
The next day, we headed back to the SE<br />
36<br />
SAIL+LEISURE