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SAIL<br />

+LEISURE TRAVEL<br />

The Moorings’ base in Fethiye is an<br />

hour’s drive from Dalaman Airport in<br />

southwest Turkey and airport transfers are<br />

easy to arrange. At The Moorings’ base, at<br />

the Classic Hotel Marina, charter guests are<br />

permitted to use the wonderful hotel<br />

facilities, including swimming pools, a spa<br />

and restaurants.<br />

The Moorings team gave us a thorough<br />

technical briefing. After finalising the<br />

paperwork, we also had a general briefing<br />

on sailing in the area. We’d plotted a route<br />

beforehand, but the base manager, Deniz,<br />

also shared some great insider tips.<br />

The Moorings offers a full provisioning<br />

service, but we didn’t make use of this as we<br />

like to wander the local markets and buy our<br />

own stock. There’s a full-service marina<br />

complex nearby, offering all sorts of services<br />

and including a supermarket, but some<br />

smaller shops on the main road will also<br />

deliver the items you select to the boat. We<br />

decided to support the locals and use one of<br />

these shops. We found the Turkish people to<br />

be friendly and accommodating, although<br />

English is generally quite limited.<br />

Our friends arrived the next day, after a<br />

long five-hour bus ride from Bodrum. We<br />

loaded them onto the boat and dashed off to<br />

Kapi Creek to make the sunset. It was a<br />

beautiful trip across the bay in warm<br />

Mediterranean winds, passing the many<br />

gulet boats coming back to base. We set up<br />

the tender and took a stern line to a rock. It<br />

was easy to moor the boat with the electric<br />

windless and we dropped anchor in 25m of<br />

water after seeing depths of up to 70m.<br />

Having to use a stern line either tied to a<br />

rock outcrop or a set mooring ring takes<br />

getting used to, but it does help keep the<br />

boat stable. After a few times mooring this<br />

way, we became good at it and each of us<br />

had our job to do when anchoring.<br />

We enjoyed our first of many warm<br />

evenings under a pitch-black sky, and woke<br />

to an idyllic bay of clear waters in which<br />

turtles joined us for an early morning swim.<br />

A lovely old couple on a boat selling freshly<br />

made pancakes and pots of honey also came<br />

by.<br />

We headed off to Ekincik Bay, a long<br />

stretch of motoring for 28 miles. The swell<br />

was big, but we used the sails to stabilise the<br />

boat. Motor sailing works well in preventing<br />

the rocking motion. At Ekincik Bay, we<br />

moored at a jetty stern-in, and received<br />

great guidance from the locals on their<br />

tenders. But the marina was busy and we<br />

were rafted up alongside boats on all sides.<br />

Ekincik offers clean fresh water, neat<br />

moorings, wooden paths, WCs, restaurants<br />

and good recycling facilities, which we<br />

appreciated as recycling is important to us.<br />

We separated our recyclables by setting up<br />

another bag for organic waste in the galley.<br />

We ate at the hilltop restaurant that evening<br />

and enjoyed the most unbelievable views<br />

and seafood, but it was pricey.<br />

I made the most of the calm morning<br />

[next morning?] and went for a lovely<br />

paddle in the clear waters of the bay.<br />

Ekincik Bay is close to a turtle breeding area<br />

and turtle tours are on offer, but July isn’t<br />

breeding season. We could’ve visited the<br />

Dalyan Rock Tombs close to the turtle<br />

sanctuary, but we wanted to hit “the road”.<br />

We decided to sail to the furthest point<br />

of the area first and make our way back to<br />

Fethiye after two weeks. We started with a<br />

fairly long haul of 14 miles to Marmaris, to<br />

stock up on supplies, where we moored off<br />

the main beaches and pier and ran the<br />

tender into town. Mooring in the main<br />

marina was too costly, and The Grand<br />

Bazaar is practical and wraps around a full<br />

city block and we found a well-stocked<br />

supermarket which delivered our groceries<br />

to the quayside in a flatbed tuk-tuk. When it<br />

comes to being helpful, the Turks can’t do<br />

enough for you.<br />

After the noisy market, we needed some<br />

quiet, so we found a beautiful mooring in a<br />

bay on the other side of an island off<br />

Marmaris, called Kuecuekkargi. There we<br />

took in a beautiful pink sunset, listening to<br />

classic tunes and enjoying a “Cin” and Tonic<br />

as our girls sang along to the guitar.<br />

Priceless!<br />

The next day, we headed back to the SE<br />

36<br />

SAIL+LEISURE

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