15.12.2017 Views

Trad Climbing Basics - VDiff Climbing

This e-book will teach you how to: - Place cams, nuts and other trad climbing gear - Build trad anchors - Use different belay methods (including guide mode) - Equalize and extend gear effectively - Understand forces on climbing gear - Abseil safely (including using a prusik knot) - Climb with half ropes - Test rock quality - Prepare for your first trad lead Plus much more. Further information: * Perfect for those who want to start trad climbing. * 200+ accurately drawn, full-colour illustrations. * Step-by-step climbing techniques explained in a beginner friendly way. * Updated December 2017

This e-book will teach you how to:

- Place cams, nuts and other trad climbing gear
- Build trad anchors
- Use different belay methods (including guide mode)
- Equalize and extend gear effectively
- Understand forces on climbing gear
- Abseil safely (including using a prusik knot)
- Climb with half ropes
- Test rock quality
- Prepare for your first trad lead
Plus much more.

Further information:

* Perfect for those who want to start trad climbing.
* 200+ accurately drawn, full-colour illustrations.
* Step-by-step climbing techniques explained in a beginner friendly way.
* Updated December 2017

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Cams Part 2: Size<br />

Correct Size<br />

This is the ideal cam size for the crack it is<br />

in.<br />

The strongest and optimal placement is<br />

within the middle section of the cam’s<br />

range of movement. You should aim to<br />

place every cam like this.<br />

Too Big<br />

This is 'over-cammed' and will be very<br />

difficult to remove. Use a smaller cam if<br />

possible.<br />

Too Small<br />

This is 'tipped out' and will be very unlikely<br />

to hold a fall. During a fall, cam lobes often<br />

slip down the crack very slightly before<br />

being pressed outwards.<br />

In this case, at least one of the lobes is<br />

likely to open completely to it's maximum<br />

range, causing the cam to slip out of the<br />

crack. Use a bigger cam.<br />

<strong>VDiff</strong> – <strong>Trad</strong> <strong>Climbing</strong> <strong>Basics</strong> > Using <strong>Trad</strong> Gear<br />

20

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