15.12.2017 • Views

Trad Climbing Basics - VDiff Climbing

This e-book will teach you how to: - Place cams, nuts and other trad climbing gear - Build trad anchors - Use different belay methods (including guide mode) - Equalize and extend gear effectively - Understand forces on climbing gear - Abseil safely (including using a prusik knot) - Climb with half ropes - Test rock quality - Prepare for your first trad lead Plus much more. Further information: * Perfect for those who want to start trad climbing. * 200+ accurately drawn, full-colour illustrations. * Step-by-step climbing techniques explained in a beginner friendly way. * Updated December 2017

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Cams Part 3: Flared Cracks

A flared crack is one which becomes

narrower or wider at one side. Cracks can

be flared in any direction.

Upward Flares

The placement in this slightly upwardflared

crack is very good. If the cam slips

down slightly during a fall, it will remain

securely in the crack.

Warning

When a cam is placed in an extremely

upward-flaring crack, as shown below, it

could easily 'walk' upwards.

This means that it will either wiggle out of

position or be impossible to retrieve. This

is caused by movements in the rope as

you climb above.

Learn more: www.vdiffclimbing.com

Cams Part 2: Size Correct Size This is the ideal cam size for the crack it is in. The strongest and optimal placement is within the middle section of the cam’s range of movement. You should aim to place every cam like this. Too Big This is 'over-cammed' and will be very difficult to remove. Use a smaller cam if possible. Too Small This is 'tipped out' and will be very unlikely to hold a fall. During a fall, cam lobes often slip down the crack very slightly before being pressed outwards. In this case, at least one of the lobes is likely to open completely to it's maximum range, causing the cam to slip out of the crack. Use a bigger cam. VDiff – Trad Climbing Basics > Using Trad Gear 20

Cams Part 3: Flared Cracks A flared crack is one which becomes narrower or wider at one side. Cracks can be flared in any direction. Upward Flares The placement in this slightly upwardflared crack is very good. If the cam slips down slightly during a fall, it will remain securely in the crack. Warning When a cam is placed in an extremely upward-flaring crack, as shown below, it could easily 'walk' upwards. This means that it will either wiggle out of position or be impossible to retrieve. This is caused by movements in the rope as you climb above. Learn more: www.vdiffclimbing.com 21

Page 1 and 2: Trad Climbing Basics £ By Donation
Page 3 and 4: Can I Trad Climb? Yes! Learning to
Page 5 and 6: Trad Gear: Cams Cams are reliable a
Page 7: A Good Cam Placement All lobes retr
Page 11 and 12: Cams Part 4: Horizontal Cracks Cams
Page 13 and 14: Method 5 - Attaching to Two or More
Page 15 and 16: Abseiling Part 6: Check the System

Trad Climbing Basics - VDiff Climbing

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