Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2018 (#29)

RAPSO IMAGING 

TRINIDAD 

8 Welcome message from the Ministry 

of Tourism 

10 Intro 

ESSENTIALS 

12 Places to stay 

16 The taming of the stew — where 

(and what) to eat 

24 Arts, entertainment & shopping 

30 Carnival & Festivals 

39 Sports 

What’s inside 

A hibiscus flower 

OTHER ESSENTIALS 

76 National calendar of events 

80 Getting here & getting around 

82 Tips for safe and sustainable travel 

86 T&T history and society in a nutshell 

TOBAGO 

91 Welcome 

ESSENTIALS 

92 Places to stay 

98 Savour the flavours — where (and 

what!) to eat 

101 Arts & entertainment — where to 

lime, and shop 

EXPLORE… 

43 Beaches, rivers & waterfalls 

47 Outdoor adventures 

52 Seeing green — eco experiences 

(turtle-watching, birding, & more!) 

60 Sightseeing (architecture & built 

heritage, easy day trips, familyfriendly 

fun, & more!) 

MAPS 

68 Trinidad Maps 

WET & WILD 

105 Beaches, rivers, waterfalls, and 

water sports 

109 Diving 

112 Game fishing 

113 Turtle-watching 

114 Sightseeing & day trips 

120 Birding 

125 Festivals & events 

130 Sports 

132 Tobago Map

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RAPSO IMAGING 

An Oropendula (Psarocolius) commonly 

known as a cornbird waits his turn for 

food at Asa Wright Nature centre 

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Escape the ordinary. 

Discover Hyatt Regency 

Trinidad. 

It’s good not to be home.

DESTINATION TRINIDAD & TOBAGO REBORN! 

Welcome to Trinidad & Tobago. 

The islands are a 

melting pot of cultures and 

warm, friendly people. Our 

heritage, rich and diverse 

culture, and extraordinary biodiversity will 

provide you with an experience unlike any. 

As a guest to our shores, you will be wowed 

from the moment you arrive and be sure to 

return again and again. 

There is a new energy in our country’s 

travel and tourism industry, which 

is certain to improve how you experience 

and explore destination Trinidad & 

Tobago. In Carnival 2017, the Ministry of 

Tourism launched a new travel app called 

GoTrinBago — the first of its kind for T&T. 

Increasingly, travellers conduct travel 

searches and book their vacations via digital 

channels. The GoTrinBago app is therefore 

filled with detailed information about 

the various tours, sites and attractions in 

both islands. Prominently featured in the 

Welcome 

app is our dynamic calendar of events, 

which can be found in the first category: 

Lime 365. A quick search through this category 

will show you that there is always 

something to do in Trinidad & Tobago! The 

app is available for download — in English 

and Spanish — in both the iOS App Store 

and the Google Play Store. Full German and 

French translations will be completed in 

the near future. 

The Government of Trinidad & Tobago 

continues to focus on development of the 

sector. As such, in the coming year you can 

expect major upgrades to our sites and 

attractions. You can also look out for an 

increase in our room stock with the introduction 

of two 5-star hotels: The Brix Hotel 

in Trinidad, and Sandals in Tobago. 

Thank you for choosing Trinidad & Tobago 

— two islands, two unique experiences. 

Tobago is clean, green, and serene, 

while Trinidad’s energy is not just from oil 

and gas, but from our people and our culture. 

Whatever travel experience you seek, 

you are certain to find it in Sweet Trinbago! 

– THE MINISTRY OF TOURISM 

COURTESY TDC 

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It’s complicated, as host Anthony 

Bourdain concluded on CNN’s Parts 

Unknown last year. Trinidadians are 

every flavour of the Caribbean mixed 

up in one — and served with pepper. 

Playful, witty, warm, friendly, and colourful 

are just a few of the words used to describe 

Trinis. Home to rare and endangered species 

like the golden tree frog, and one of the 

most important global nesting sites of giant 

leatherback turtles, Trinidad is also the 

most industrialised island in the region. We 

are a hub for commerce, trade, shopping, 

entertainment, and ecological research. We 

are complex — spiritual yet sensual; a little 

crazy, but cool. The kind of people who can 

take old oil drums and hammer out an orchestra. 

Welcome to our magic 

Intro 

island. 

Credits 

Editor: Caroline Taylor 

Text: Nazma Muller 

Consulting editor: Jeremy Taylor 

Editorial & design assistant: Shelly- 

Ann Inniss 

Designer: Bridget van Dongen 

Consulting designer: Kevon Webster 

Business development: Denise Chin, 

Yuri Chin Choy, Evelyn Chung 

Production: Joanne Mendes, 

Jacqueline Smith 

General manager: Halcyon Salazar 

Ministry font courtesy Victor Tognollo 

/ Tognollo Hand Lettering 

Cover Trinidad: A ruby topaz hummingbird 

photographed in the Arima Valley. 

Photo: Wendell Stephen Jay Reyes 

Cover Tobago: Relaxing atop a glassbottom 

boat in the Nylon Pool. Photo: 

Tarique Eastman 

A publication of Media & Editorial 

Projects Ltd. (MEP) 

6 Prospect Avenue, Maraval, 

Port of Spain, Trinidad & Tobago 

T: (868) 622-3821 | F: (868) 628-0639 

E: info@discovertnt.com 

W: discovertnt.com 

Connect with us online: 

RAPSO IMAGING 

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Guava skipper feeds on a rangoon vine 


ISSN 1680-6166 

© 2017 Media & Editorial Projects (MEP) 

Ltd. 

All rights reserved. No part of this publication 

may be reproduced in any form 

whatsoever without the prior written 

consent of the publisher.


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COURTESY THE HYATT REGENCY 

Places 

to stay 

The high-end hotels feature 

sought-after amenities, like topclass 

restaurants and excellent 

pool, gym, business, and conference 

facilities. Downtown on the 

waterfront, the full-service Hyatt Regency 

Trinidad offers views of the Gulf of Paria; 

across the road is the Radisson, with its 

revolving restaurant at the top; and the 

Courtyard by Marriott is further west beside 

MovieTowne. The classy Kapok Hotel 

and iconic Hilton both overlook the Queen’s 

Park Savannah. 

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Down south, the leading options include 

Tradewinds, which also has monthly 

residency options, and the Royal Hotel, 

located just around the corner from the 

entrance to San Fernando Hill. In the 

east, there’s the Holiday Inn Express 

near the airport, and academic visitors 

appreciate the University Inn in St Augustine. 

Among the most popular guesthouses, 

B&Bs, and self-catering options 

are The Allamanda (Woodbrook); Crosswinds 

Villa Bed & Breakfast (Santa 

Cruz); Forty Winks Inn (Port of Spain); 

Culture Crossroads Inn (St James); and 

the Coblenz Inn and L’Orchidée Guesthouse 

(Cascade).

PARAMIN 

Spectacularly located villa and 

events venue perfect for 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HIKING | BIRDWATCHING | GROUP CARNIVAL PACKAGES 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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Places to stay 

Quieter, greener options exist for nature lovers: Paradise 

Villas (Paramin); Asa Wright Nature Centre on the 

Arima–Blanchisseusse Road; Hacienda Jacana (Talparo); 

Petrea Place at the Pointe-à-Pierre Wildfowl Trust; 

Xanadu Resort (Lopinot); or Acajou, Le Grand Almandier, 

and Mt Plaisir near Grande Rivière. 

If you’re staying at hotels like the Hyatt, you’ll find 

an array of opportunities for pampering right on site. 

You can also find a variety of spa and beauty treatments 

at The Face & Body Clinic’s four branches (Port of Spain, 

San Fernando, Chaguanas, and in Tobago). 

CHRIS ANDERSON 

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All rooms and suites are air conditioned and outfitted with modern facilities for your every comfort 

including internet access and direct dial telephone. Enjoy a meal at our restaurant which specialises 

in a variety of tasty Caribbean and International cuisine, or just sit back and relax at our bar and 

lounge or around our swimming pool. 

Our new building includes conference facilities as well as an ideal settingfor wedding receptions, 

cocktail parties and other special functions. Other facilities include our complimentary gym and 

business centre with email and internet access, ideally suited for business or vacation. 

We also offer special group and long term rates. 


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The taming of the stew 

Dining out 

Foodies, pace yourself! At the Kapok Hotel in Maraval, 

savour the flavours of the Orient (Tiki Village), or 

brick-oven-baked pizza (Kava). Downtown at the Hyatt 

Regency Trinidad, the Waterfront restaurant serves up 

Caribbean and international cuisine. 

At MovieTowne, the options include authentic Japanese 

cuisine (Kaizan Sushi), international flavours (Zanzibar, 

Ruby Tuesday), Italian (Rizzoni’s), a Brazilian-American 

steakhouse (Texas de Brazil), or seafood and barbecue 

dishes (Trader Jack’s). 

On the Avenue (ie Ariapita Avenue) in Woodbrook, you 

can choose from Italian (Angelo’s), Caribbean creole 

(Veni Mangé), Chinese-Indian fusion (Hakka), or sushi 

(More Sushi). At One Woodbrook Place, vegans and vegetarians 

are catered to at Coloz (Caribbean) and Urban 

Oasis (international). 

In Maraval, head to Taste Vinoteca for small plates and 

vintage wine, or to Aioli and Joseph’s for a taste of the 

Mediterranean; while chef Khalid Mohammed creates 

modern, international dishes with a Caribbean twist at 

Chaud Restaurant in St Ann’s. 

COURTESY AIOLI RESTAURANT 

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Down south, sample Cuban cuisine at Arabian House 

(which also serves Arabian dishes, of course) or visit 

Atherly’s for creole and international flavours. 

Alcohol & spirits 

Make sure to sample our award-winning local 

rums (like Angostura 1919), and cocktails made 

with the world-famous Angostura Bitters. 

Angostura’s Queen’s Park 

Sizzle 

2 oz Angostura® 7 yr old dark rum 

1 oz Demerara simple syrup 

1 oz fresh lime juice 

12-14 mint leaves 

6-8 dashes Angostura® aromatic 

bitters 

The taming of the stew 

Method: Build in a highball glass. 

Muddle mint leaves in lime juice 

and simple syrup then fill glass 

with dry crushed ice. Pour rum 

over ice and swizzle well until 

glass is ice cold and frosted. Pack 

glass with more crushed ice and 

top with Angostura aromatic bitters. 

COURTESY ANGOSTURA 

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Cocoa is king again 

We happen to grow some of the finest cocoa beans 

(Trinitario), which are in demand by high-end chocolatiers 

in Europe. A cocoa renaissance has revived 

the industry and gourmet concoctions are being 

handmade with local fruits and flavours (like Cocobel’s 

sublime sorrel and dizzying ponche-à-crème). 

Other names to look out for: Cacique, Ortinola Great 

House, Trinidad & Tobago Fine Cocoa Company. 

RAPSO IMAGING 

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COURTESY TDC 

Top dishes to try in T&T 

* 

* 

Roti: 

* 

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Doubles: You are never more than 

100ft away from a doubles vendor 

in Trinidad, especially if you are in 

a city/town. Two fried barra and 

a spoonful of curried channa will 

change your life — especially with 

slight pepper, tamarind sauce, 

cucumbers and mango. 

There is no way you can visit 

Trinidad without having a roti. The 

trouble is deciding what to put in it. 

Pack some combination of curried 

chicken, beef, goat, duck, or conch 

inside this delicious wrap, together 

with bhagi (spinach), pumpkin, 

channa, potato, mango or bodi (string 

beans). 

Pelau: The national “rice and peas” 

dish, a one-pot wonder that is 

popular at house parties and to take 

on beach outings or excursions. It 

is usually cooked with pigeon peas 

and either chicken or beef. These 

days, however, the Trini gourmand 

has added all sorts of spins to the 

humble pelau — from the carnivore’s 

pork and lamb, to shitake mushrooms 

for the vegan. Usually served with 

cole slaw or a green salad and/or 

avocado. 

* 

* 

* 

* 


This page: pastelles are an integral part of a 

Trini Christmas 

Opposite: enjoy your curry in roti, doubles or 

as traditional masala, rice and vegetables 

Pineapple chow: Soaked in salt, 

black pepper, chadon beni, garlic and 

pepper, pineapple suddenly takes on 

a whole new personality — spicy 

yet sweet, like a Trini. We also make 

chow with mango, pommecythere, 

cherries, plums, carambola and even 

chennette. 

Corn soup: The saviour that sobers up 

many a tipsy party-goer, the trusty 

corn soup can usually be found at 

concerts and big events. This tasty 

veggie option is filled with dumplings, 

potato, carrots, and wedges of corn in 

a seasoned split pea broth. 

Stewed chicken & macaroni pie: The 

combination is deadly, sure to knock 

you out on a Sunday. The secret of 

the stew is in the seasoning, which 

the crafty Trini cook marinates the 

meat in overnight, while the cheesiness 

of the macaroni pie is directly 

proportional to its deliciousness. 

Pastelle: Wafer-thin casings of cornmeal 

are filled with seasoned meat 

(chicken, beef, lamb or pork), tuna or 

soya, with olives, capers and raisins, 

then cooked in a banana leaf and foil.

Hotter than fire 

Besides the best cocoa, we have some 

of the world’s hottest peppers. One, the 

Moruga Scorpion, was actually rated as 

the hottest in the world at one point. Our 

pepper sauces are not to be trifled with 

— one is even dubbed “mother in law” 

to describe its lethal power. The East Indians 

can also be credited with creating 

all manner of chutneys and sauces out 

of fruits like tamarind, pommecythere, 

and mango. A dollop of kuchela or mango 

amchar will liven up any dish. 

COURTESY COCONUT GROWERS’ ASSOCIATION/OLIVE AND MANGO 


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Vaughnette Bigford wows the 

crowd at North Coast Jazz 

(Blanchisseuse) last May. Her 

album, Born to Shine is available 

vaughnettebigford.com 

CAMILLE E LOWHAR 

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Arts & 

entertainment 

Music 

Music is in the Trini DNA. Tony and Grammy 

winning singer/actress Heather 

Headley; Grammy-winning singer/songwriter 

Angela Hunte; award-winning 

rap/hip-hop artist Nicki Minaj; and the 

late, celebrated performer Geoffrey 

Holder are all Trinidadian. Of our indigenous 

music, these are among the most 

significant: 


Calypso dates back to pre-Emancipation 

times, when slaves created songs as 

a form of praise or derisive social commentary, 

and rose to international popularity 

in the 1930s–50s. Soca — calypso’s 

up-tempo progeny born in the 70s and 

incorporating Indian musical influences 

— is the islands’ party music. Some hits 

have become international sensations.

Serious liming & partying 

If there’s one thing Trinis take seriously, 

it’s partying. Our reputation as the party 

animals of the Caribbean has been hardearned 

and we do our best to maintain 

it — at bars, rum shops, holes in the wall, 

and nightclubs. 

Some of the most popular haunts are: 

Woodbrook & “De Avenue”: 

51° Lounge; Coco Lounge; 

* 

* 

* 

* 

Drink! Lounge & Bistro; More Vino; 

Smokey & Bunty’s; and Studio Lounge 

Around Port of Spain: HAZE; Katalyst; 

Luce; Old Havana Cigar Bar; Paprika; 

Queen’s Park Oval; Sails (Chaguaramas); 

Siam; Trotters; Tzar; Vas; and 

Zanzibar 

Heading east: Sandbaggers (Trincity); 

and Trevor’s Edge (St Augustine) 

Around San Fernando: Hi RPM; Privé; 

and Space La Nouba. 

COURTESY THE TRINIDAD & TOBAGO FILM FESTIVAL (TTFF) 


Tassa is a drum-driven music central 

to the Muslim festival of Hosay, but 

the drums are fused with other musical 

forms and celebrations year-round. 

Parang is Trinidad’s Christmas music, 

with origins in Venezuela, featuring 

instruments like the cuatro, box bass, 

and maracas, and lyrics usually sung in 

Spanish. 

Indigenous music is only the beginning. 

Some of the most distinctive groups 

include fusion bands Freetown Collective, 

jointpop, and Kin Sound System; 

the rapso of 3canal; and local rock, and 

reggae, and jazz artists like Vaughnette 

Bigford. Groups like the Marionettes, 

Lydians, and Love Movement present 

western classical, opera, and Broadway, 

and are particularly popular at Christmas 

time. 

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Arts & entertainment 

Visual arts 

Visual artists abound in Trinidad, with galleries constantly exhibiting 

the many talented painters who call this island home — Horizons, 

Medulla, Soft Box, Y Art Gallery, Fine Art Gallery. The most famous 

expats are Peter Doig and Chris Ofili (Turner Prize winner), while local 

names that collectors fawn over include Michel-Jean Cazabon and 

Boscoe Holder. Other names to look out for: MP Alladin, Sybil Atteck, 

Ralph and the late Vera Baney, Pat Bishop, Isaiah Boodhoo, Edward 

Bowen, Carlisle Chang, Leroy Clarke, Chris Cozier, Ken Crichlow, Jackie 

Hinkson, Paul Llanos, Dermot Louison, Che Lovelace, Shastri Maharaj, 

Wendy Nanan, Lisa O’Connor, Shalini Seereeram, Peter Sheppard, Irénée 

Shaw, Sundiata, Jasmine Thomas-Girvan, and Noel Vaucrosson. 

Dance: all the right moves 

Any opportunity we get, Trinis will start dancing. We are credited with inventing 

the limbo, after all. Originally an event at wakes, it was popularised by our own Julia 

Edwards, a dance pioneer who appeared in films like Fire Down Below (1957) and 

toured the world in the 1960s. 

Another one of our dance legends, Beryl McBurnie, founder of the Little Carib Theatre, 

was the first person to promote Caribbean dance internationally, to acclaimed 

dancer Katherine Dunham among others. McBurnie gave Dunham private lessons in 

the rhythms and dances of the region, including ritual Yoruba chants from Trinidad 

and dances such as the bongo — like the limbo, done at wakes — and kalinda, where 

stickfighting opponents dance (carre) in between exchanging blows. 

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Members of La 

Danse Caraibe 

perform at 

Queen’s Hall 

Keeping traditions 

alive (or creating new 

ones), local schools and 

dance companies present 

shows in a range of styles 

— regional folk, ballet, 

jazz, modern, and Indian 

classical, plus experimental 

multi-media productions 

— at many of the same 

venues as listed for theatre 

(next page). 

MARCUS ANTOINE 


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Theatre: our world onstage 

Productions of both local and foreign 

musicals, plays, and experimental performances 

are staged by commercial 

outfits like RS/RR Productions and Raymond 

Choo Kong Productions; theatre 

departments at the Universities of the 

West Indies (UWI) and Trinidad & Tobago 

(UTT); and community theatre companies. 

There are stand-up comedy acts as well, 

plus a New Play Festival each October/ 

November. Look for shows at Queen’s 

Hall, the National Academy for Performing 

Arts (NAPA), Central Bank, Little Carib, 

Big Black Box, Trinidad Theatre Workshop 

(Port of Spain, which was founded by Nobel 

Laureate Derek Walcott); CLR James 

Auditorium in the east; and Naparima 

Bowl and SAPA (the southern campus of 

the NAPA) in San Fernando. 

Film & cinema 

The film industry has long been earmarked 

for growth, and incentive and rebate 

programmes have made the islands 

an attractive location for filming. Work 

by locally-based and Caribbean diaspora 

artists are on show at the annual T&T 

Film Festival (see our Festivals section), 

and some get runs at local cinemas like 

MovieTowne and Caribbean Cinemas 8 

locations, and IMAX in Port of Spain. The 

UWI Campus Film Classics and European 

Film Festival (usually in May) host special 

screenings of regional and foreign 

indie films. 

This page: a still from the locally produced feature film 

Green Days by the River, adapted from the Michael 

Anthony novel of the same name 

Opposite centre: some of Barbara Jardine’s creations in 

Y Gallery’s “Jewel Box Spectrum” exhibition 

Arts & entertainment 

COURTESY TTFF 

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REISHA SEEBARANSINGH 

Fashion & jewellery 

Some of the top names to look out for are CLD, 

Ecliff Elie, Adrian Foster, House of Jaipur, Heather 

Jones, K2K, the Lush Kingdom, Meiling, Millhouse, 

Claudia Pegus, Pilar, The Cloth, and the Wadada 

Movement. For those looking for breath-taking 

hand-crafted jewellery in precious metals and 

stones, check Chris Anderson, Gillian Bishop, Janice 

Derrick, Akilah Jaramogi, Barbara Jardine, Rachel 

Rochford, Rachel Ross, and Jasmine Thomas- 

Girvan. 

Literature & books 

Look out for works (spanning fiction, 

plays, poetry, local history, culture, and 

the environment) by Nobel laureates VS 

Naipaul and Derek Walcott, plus Michael 

Anthony, Gerard Besson, Lloyd Best, Angelo 

Bissessarsingh, CLR James, John La 

Rose, Earl Lovelace, Ian MacDonald, Elizabeth 

Nunez, Judy Raymond, Monique 

Roffey, Sam Selvon, Amanda Smyth, Julian 

Kenny, and former prime minister 

Eric Williams at bookstores like Paper 

Based and Nigel R Khan; and books and 

magazines by publishers like Paria and 

MEP (our publishers, who produce books 

of Caribbean interest under the imprint 

Prospect Press). 

RAPSO IMAGING 

Non-stop shopping 

You can buy just about anything here: from distinctive locally hand-crafted souvenirs, 

to top international brands in fashion, jewellery, electronics, cars and gourmet food. If 

you can’t find it in one of the major malls (Long Circular, The Falls at West Mall, Trincity, 

Gulf City, Grand Bazaar, South Park Shopping Centre, Centre Pointe Mall, Centre City 

Mall), it’s sure to be in one of the many plazas (the older ones are Ellerslie Plaza, Price 

Plaza and MovieTowne Mall) or specialty shops. For local art, craft, food, fashion and 

accessories, check out the artisan markets (Green Market Santa Cruz, and UpMarket 

at the Woodbrook Youth Centre). 


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What’s all the fuss about? 

This is our annual street 

festival on the two days 

before Ash Wednesday; 

it takes over the capital, 

and all major towns. Indeed the whole 

country shuts down to party hearty (or 

enjoy two days off!). 

RAPSO IMAGING 

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How to survive it 

Stay hydrated (water, coconut water and sports drinks 

are your friends); wear earplugs, and stylish trainers 

for covering long distances; and have a mobile to call 

for a pick-up just in case of emergency (ie you get tired, 

drunk, or both). 

Playing a mas — pretty, or dirty 

It’s all about the costumes, the pageantry, and the 

fetes… This is an all-out explosion of the senses, beginning 

with the all-inclusive band launches in July — 

where the limitless food and drinks recall the hedonistic 

French masquerade balls in the 19th century which, in 

part, gave birth to this festival. But the highlight for 

many visitors is actually getting down and dirty in the 

carnival. Literally. This means playing J’Ouvert, from the 

wee hours of Carnival Monday morning, covered in mud, 

oil, chocolate or body paint, dancing through the streets 

of Port of Spain to the rhythm of our music. 

Opposite: a masquerader 

from K2K Alliance & 

Partners, three time Band of 

the Year (Medium) 

This page: a menacing blue 

devil intimidates the crowd 

Carnival 

ATIBA WILLIAMS 


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The music 

From the big costume bands launches, you will hear the latest soca hits being played 

on the radio and in the fetes. On Carnival Friday, the artistes compete for huge cash 

prizes by performing for the International Soca Monarch title. Calypso, meanwhile, is 

best heard at calypso tents, numerous competitions through the season, and at Dimanche 

Gras on Carnival Sunday. 

Carnival 

COURTESY TDC 

Steelpan 

This is the home of the only acoustic instrument invented 

in the 20th century, the steelpan. After the British colonial 

authorities banned the beating of African drums, the 

working class turned to the steel drums in which oil was 

stored. A highlight of the Carnival is Panorama, the battle 

of the steel orchestras for cash prizes and bragging 

rights. In the weeks before the finals, panyards across 

the country are filled with spectators and supporters 

listening to the players perfect their performance. The 

Queen’s Park Savanah’s Big Stage is the arena where 

the battle is fought the Saturday before Carnival. 

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RAPSO IMAGING 

Opposite: a steelpan 

This page: a masquerader 

from The Lost Tribe 


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A deya lit for Divali 

Festivals 

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Bocas Lit Fest 

With headliners like Man Booker Prize 

winner Marlon James from Jamaica and 

our own Earl Lovelace (Commonwealth 

Writers Prize winner), the festival brings 

writers from around the region and further 

afield for readings, performances, 

workshops, discussions, and film 

screenings. Founded in 2011, and usually 

staged over the last week of April, the 

festival also hosts events year-round. 

bocaslitfest.com 

COCO Dance festival 

Organised by the Contemporary Choreographers 

Collective, this annual festival 

(October) brings together dancers and 

choreographers from around the region 

and North America to collaborate with 

the local dance communities and students. 

Indian Arrival Day 

This national public holiday (30 May) 

commemorates the arrival of the first 

indentured labourers from India on the 

Fatel Razack in 1845. More than 140,000 

Indians were recruited over the next 70 

years to work Trinidad’s plantations after 

Emancipation. Communities re-enact 

the arrival on beaches, and there are cultural 

shows and performances; the Divali 

Nagar (near Chaguanas) hosts many key 

celebrations. 

Divali and Ramleela 

This Hindu festival that signifies the triumph 

of good over evil is celebrated 

by the whole country, and everyone is 

welcome at the nightly lighting of deyas 

(clay pots with coconut oil and a wick), 

on often intricate bamboo structures in 

parks nationwide. Some families and 

neighbourhoods go all out and the sight 

of thousands of deyas and coloured lights 

decorating homes is something to behold. 

Preparations and rituals typically last 

five days, but the main festival night coincides 

with the darkest, new moon night 

of the Hindu calendar, usually between 

mid-October and mid-November. You will 

see families dressed in fabulous saris and 

shalwar on Divali night to light deyas and 

perform puja (prayers) to Lakshmi, the 

goddess of fertility and prosperity. Afterwards, 

a feast with lots of curried vegetables 

and roti, with Indian sweets as 

dessert, must follow. Ramleela is a nineday, 

outdoor festival dramatising the life 

of Rama, with colourful costumes…and an 

explosive finale! The best-known productions 

are held in Couva and Felicity in the 

days leading up to Divali. 

RAPSO IMAGING 


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La Divina Pastora & Siparee Mai 

In a church of the same name in Siparia stands a dark-skinned statue of the Virgin 

Mary as La Divina Pastora (the Divine Shepherdess). Many miracles have been attributed 

to her by ardent devotees. On the Thursday night and Friday before Easter, 

Hindu pilgrims visit the church with acts of devotion — recognising her as Siparee 

Mai (mother of Siparia), Durga, and Lakshmi. Most of all, she is just “mother”. And for 

her feast day (the third Sunday after Easter), the “Miracle Mother” is decorated by 

Catholics with flowers, dressed in white, and processed through the streets, followed 

by celebrations open to all. 

NYLA SINGH 

This page: hands covered 

with colourful abir powder 

Opposite: the flambeaux 

street procession is a 

hallmark of Emancipation 

celebrations 

Phagwa (Holi) 

Each March, the Hindu community recognises the beginning 

of the Indian spring and the Hindu New Year in a 

joyful explosion of colour. Participants — Hindus and 

non-Hindus alike — spray each other with different 

shades of the vegetable dye, abir. The Aranguez Savannah 

is a popular venue for this celebration of birth and 

renewal. 

36 discovertnt.com

MARIA NUNES 

Hosay 

The exquisitely beautiful tadjahs that 

represent the tomb of Hussain, grandson 

of the Prophet Muhammad, make 

this festival a hit every year. Five tadjahs 

(made of bamboo, wood, paper and 

tinsel) are paraded through the streets 

of St James — and other sites around 

the country like Cedros, Couva, Curepe, 

and Tunapuna — in commemoration of 

the martyrdom of Hussain in the year 

680 AD. These miniature temples are 

about 3–6m/10–30ft tall. The procession 

is accompanied by the beating of tassa 

drums and two standards in the shape 

of half-moons — one red symbolising 

the blood of Hussain that was shed at 

Karbala, and one green for the poisoning 

of his brother Hassan. Observances takes 

place over three nights (Flag Night, Small 

Hosay, Big Hosay). 


Emancipation 

A public holiday is celebrated on 1 August 

to commemorate the end of slavery in the 

British colonies (1838), but events take 

place before and after the big day. Enjoy 

art exhibitions, film screenings, lectures, 

performances, religious observances, 

trade shows, and a vibrant street procession. 

The Lidj Yasu Omowale Emancipation 

Village at the Queen’s Park Savannah 

is the centre of the activities. 

Festivals 

37

Santa Rosa Festival and First 

People’s Heritage Week 

With origins in both Trinidad’s First Peoples 

and Catholic traditions, the Santa 

Rosa Festival in Arima commemorates 

the death of Santa Rosa de Lima, the Roman 

Catholic patron saint of the “New 

World”. It begins with the firing of a cannon 

on 1 August from Calvary Hill, and 

ends with a procession on the Sunday 

following her feast day (23 August). A 

statue of the saint is carried through the 

streets by members of the island’s Santa 

Rosa First Peoples Community (led by the 

Carib Queen), alongside Roman Catholics. 

In October, the Community celebrates 

First Peoples Heritage Week, which includes 

academic conferences, ritual 

smoke and water ceremonies, street processions, 

and more. 

38 


Festivals 

In 2017, a ceremony was held at the Red 

House to honour indigenous ancestors 

whose skeletal remains were found under 

its foundations 

T&T Film Festival 

Local filmmakers get a chance to showcase 

their work at the annual T&T Film 

Festival, which takes place the third 

week in September and is the second 

largest film festival in the region. 

A packed schedule of shorts, features 

and documentaries from home-grown 

talent are shown alongside work from 

regional filmmakers. Educational initiatives, 

development programmes, and 

community film screenings happen not 

just during the festival, but all year long. 

ttfilmfestival.com 

MARIA NUNES

Golf 

Trinidad has three 18-hole courses (St 

Andrew’s Golf Club in Moka (pictured); 

Millennium Lakes in Trincity; and 

Petrotrin’s Pointe-à-Pierre Golf Club), 

and three nine-hole courses (Chaguaramas; 

Usine St Madeleine; and Brechin 

Castle in Caroni). T&T Golf Association: 

629-7127 


Sports 


39

Athletics 

The island has a long history of excelling 

at athletics. Local and international stars 

meet in action at the annual Hampton 

Games. National Association of Athletics 

Administrations of T&T: 679-3276 

Cricket 

The Queen’s Park Oval (Port of Spain) and 

the new stadium at the Brian Lara Cricket 

Academy (Tarouba) host the nation’s 

Twenty/20, one-day, and Test matches. 

T&T Cricket Board: 636-1577 

Sports 

Cycling & mountain biking 

The Easter International Grand Prix and 

National Championships are highlights 

of the racing calendar. A new world-class 

National Cycling Velodrome (Couva) 

opened in 2016; the Arima Velodrome 

is another focal point. Mountain bikers 

head to Chaguaramas, Santa Cruz, and 

the northern range. T&T Cycling Federation: 

679-8823 

Dragon boat racing 

This sport took off in Trinidad 10 years ago 

for Chinese Bicentennial celebrations; the 

national team since has won several 

medals at the World Championships. Regattas 

are organised by the T&T Dragon 

Boat Federation, mainly in Chaguaramas 

(Trinidad) and Pigeon Point (Tobago). 

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RAPSO IMAGING 

Motor sports 

Rally and drag racing are both popular, 

with locations in south and central Trinidad 

like Couva and Preysal. Events are 

hosted by the T&T Rally Club (like the 

Championship Series and International 

Rally) and T&T United Drag Racing Association. 


41

Football (soccer) 

T&T has hosted the FIFA World (men’s) 

Under-17 championships and Women’s 

Under-17 world championships. It was 

also the smallest nation, until Iceland 

in 2017, to qualify for the World Cup finals 

(2006). The Hasely Crawford (Port 

of Spain), Manny Ramjohn (Marabella), 

Larry Gomes (Arima), Ato Boldon (Couva), 

and Marvin Lee (Tunapuna) stadia are 

the main venues. T&T Football Federation 

(TTFF): 623-9500 

Swimming & aquatics 

A new world-class National Aquatics Centre 

(Couva) opened in 2016. It is intended 

to be a hub for local sports including water 

polo and diving, and to attract international 

swim events as part of a sports 

tourism thrust. Public swimming pools 

are also located in Port of Spain (Flying 

Fish), Tunapuna (Centre of Excellence), 

St Joseph (La Joya), Diego Martin, San 

Fernando (Cocoyea), Couva and Siparia. 

Amateur Swimming Association: 643-2813 

Tennis 

The recently completed National Tennis 

Complex (Tacarigua) is the centrepiece 

of the sport, while there are also public 

courts at Nelson Mandela Park (St Clair), 

and courts for hourly rental at the Trinidad 

Country Club (Maraval) and some 

hotels. T&T Tennis Association: 625-3030 

Sports 

Sporting heroes 

* 

Stephen Ames: former world top 

25 golfer with four major PGA 

titles, including victory over Tiger 

Woods at the Players Championship 

(2006) 

Ato Boldon: four-time Olympic 

medallist (2 silver, 2 bronze for 

100m and 200m, 1996 and 2000), 

and 200m World Championship 

gold medallist (1997). Now a commentator 

with NBC in the US 

George Bovell III: nation’s first 

Olympic medallist in swimming 

(2004 bronze in 200m individual 

medley), among several other 

international medals 

Hasely Crawford: nation’s first 

Olympic gold medallist, winning 

men’s 100m (1976) 

Brian Lara: star cricketer and 

world record holder for the highest 

Test match score (400 not 

out, 2004) and highest first class 

score (501 not out, 1994) 

Jereem Richards: winner of 

4x400m relay bronze at 2012 

World Indoor Championships; and 

both bronze (200m) and gold 

(4x400 relay) medals at the 2017 

World Championships 

Keshorn Walcott: two-time Olympic 

medallist (gold in 2012, bronze 

in 2016). He’s the youngest male 

athlete (and the first black one) 

to win gold in javelin; the first 

individual track and field athlete 

ever to win World Junior and 

Olympic titles in the same year; 

and he holds the North, Central 

American and Caribbean junior 

record 

Rodney Wilkes: nation’s first 

Olympic medallist (weightlifting 

silver in 1948, bronze in 1952). 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

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ALTIN OSMANAJ/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM 

Lopinot: green days by the river 

The river lime is a family tradition, 

especially for the East Indian 

community. And no river lime is 

complete without a duck or two 

being curried and served with 

rice or roti. On weekends and public holidays, 

the banks of the Caura and Lopinot 

rivers are lined with bubbling pots. 

A popular hangout for locals on weekends 

and holidays, the Lopinot Historical 

Complex was once a sprawling cocoa estate 

that belonged to a French count (the 

Compte de Lopinot). He fled the Haitian 

Revolution in 1800 and set up camp here 

(there are still ghost stories about him 

riding his horse on full moon nights). This 

community of farmers can trace their 

roots back to the First Peoples, French, 


Beaches 

& rivers 

and Spaniards. At Christmas, the Spanish 

link is celebrated with a parang festival. 

Lopinot’s river meanders for miles, with 

numerous pools along the way where 

one can wallow in the cold, clear water 

beneath the forest canopy. A small museum 

and historical complex showcase 

artefacts from the days of slavery. Opposite 

the playing field, Café Mariposa 

serves cocoa ice cream and other cocoainspired 

dishes, with a guesthouse for 

nature lovers who want to explore the 

nearby caves or go birdwatching. 

43

Beach bummin’ 

While Tobago’s beaches are calm, Trinidad’s 

waters tend to be a little more “eventful”, 

with bigger, more powerful waves and rugged 

cliffs or dramatic mountain backdrops. 

There’s the popular Maracas Beach (currently 

undergoing a facelift), the spot for bake and shark 

(although the sharks are now endangered) smothered in 

sauces and topped with pineapple, cucumbers, tomato, and 

lettuce. More sustainable alternatives to shark include flying 

fish, mahi mahi, squid/calamari, carite, tilapia, or lionfish. 

Sunrise at the ever-popular Maracas beach 


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Beaches 

& rivers 


45

COURTESY CREDIT TDC 

The Nariva river meets the sea near 

Manzanilla 

46 


Beaches 

& rivers 

Next along the coast is the wide expanse 

of Tyrico Bay, a favourite with 

families, as is Las Cuevas, the next beauty 

along the north coast. The caves here 

are part of the attraction; there’s also a 

car park, changing facilities and snack 

bar. Walk with insect repellent for the 

sand flies and mosquitoes. 

The long and rugged stretch of beach 

at Blanchisseuse is another favourite 

along the north coast, especially for surfers. 

At the end of the bay, the Marianne 

River is a prime spot for kayaking. Salybia 

and Sans Souci in the northeast are 

also magnets for surfers. 

In the south, Mayaro (a very long 

beach that’s usually covered in chip 

chip, a tiny mollusk that can be cooked) 

and Quinam are the most frequented, 

while the coconut tree-lined Manzanilla 

stretches for miles up the east coast. 

The west coast boasts warm waters and 

white sand at Vessigny and Granville.

Over the top: Saut d’Eau 

The trek to Saut d’Eau beach is long and difficult, but 

worth it. The only way to get there is through Paramin 

and down the side of the mountain via a dirt path. 

You can take a jeep or walk to the top of the mountain 

known as Barre La Vigie (patois for lookout point or 

crow’s nest), which reaches 550m/1,800ft. Saut d’Eau 

Beach is directly across from Saut d’Eau Island, a sanctuary 

for pelicans and rare bird species. The clear, cool 

waters of the bay are the perfect pick-me-up after the 

hike. A 9m/30ft waterfall cascades into the sea, with 

others nearby. The return climb to the summit is even 

more testing, but the views from the top, like the one 

pictured here, will make you feel like a champion when 

you get there. 


Outdoor 

adventures 


47

The great Icacos lagoon is bisected by 

a narrow road leading to the CGA Ltd’s 

coconut estate and further to the town 

of Icacos 

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Hiking tips 

* 

* 

* 

* 

Only go with a reputable guide, know your limits, and always stay with your 

group 

Always carry water, food and first aid supplies, and some dry clothes, in a 

waterproof bag 

Black clothing is the hottest, and attracts mosquitoes. Wear long trousers for 

bush treks, and comfortable, waterproof shoes with good grip — no open-toed 

sandals 

And as the saying goes: take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints…! 

COURTESY COCONUT GROWERS’ ASSOCIATION 


49

Like bats out of hell: Tamana Caves 

The Tamana Bat Caves in the Central Range are home to an estimated 1.5 million bats. 

One for every Trini, with extras. Mt Tamana itself (313m/1,009ft) was revered as a sacred 

mountain by the Guarahoons (one of the First Peoples). Eleven of the 67 species 

of the island’s nocturnal bats can be found in these caves, including vampire, fruit, and 

insect bats. At dusk, they all stream out of the caves en masse to feed. Thousands zip 

past you per second. It’s a fairly easy hike through old coffee estates; wear long pants 

and sneakers. 

PIERSON HILL 

Go for gold: El Tucuche 

The rare golden tree frog is found only in 

two places: Venezuela and Trinidad. Locally 

you can find them in three remote 

spots: the summits of El Tucuche, Aripo, 

and Morne Bleu Ridge in the Northern 

Range. According to the International 

Union for Conservation of Nature, this 

endemic species is critically endangered 

due to its severely restricted habitat 

and fragmented distribution in the 

montane forest and elfin woodlands. At 

937m/3,072ft, the peak of El Tucuche is 

a serious hike with potential hazards, 

especially in the rainy season. But the 

50 


The rare golden tree frog is only found at 

the summits of our highest peaks 

views are stunning (from both of its 

peaks!). And you might just spot a golden 

tree frog hiding in a giant bromeliad. Plus 

there are toucans, mountain crabs, howler 

monkeys, cicadas, hummingbirds, and 

other rare species. 

Recommended starting time: 7am 

Distance: 6.5km/4 miles each way 

Duration: 8–12 hours return 

Level of difficulty: Strenuous 

Hiking boots or trail shoes recommended. 

Be prepared for rain, so use waterproof 

hiking sacks or bags, plus an extra set of 

clothes and a towel for afterwards.

Waterfalls & more popular hikes 

The Northern Range is full of glorious waterfalls for those willing to walk a 

mile or two into the forest. Some of the most spectacular are Maracas, Paria, 

Avocat, Rincon and Three Pools. In the west, there is Edith Falls (see our 

Chaguaramas section), and in the east, Rampanalgas and Rio Seco. Here’s 

how to get to some of them. 

Fondes Amandes (St Ann’s): The Community Reforestation Project provides 

forest tours that range from quick and gentle to more intermediate 

* 

Madamas Bay (north coast): It’ll take you roughly 3 hours from Matelot 

* or 5 hours from Blanchisseuse. A beach, river, waterfall, and turtles (in 

season) await. Intense 

* 

* 

* 

* 

Maracas Falls (Northern Range): 30–45 minute trek; Trinidad’s tallest 

waterfall (91m/299ft). Gentle 

Paria Bay (north coast): It’ll take you roughly 2 hours from Blanchisseuse 

to Turtle Rock then Cathedral Rock/Paria Arch. A pristine white 

sand beach, turtles (in season), and nearby waterfall are your reward. 

Also accessible via Brasso Seco. Intermediate 

Rio Seco Falls (Salybia): Part of the Matura National Park, a 45–60 minute 

hike brings you to the falls, and a natural swimming pool. Gentle 

Turure Water Steps (Cumaca): after about 60 minutes, you’ll be bathing 

in the pools at these unique natural limestone “steps”. Intermediate 

Outdoor adventures 


51

RAPSO IMAGING 

Before it was an island, Trinidad was part of the South 

American mainland, so its environment is both Caribbean 

and continental. Thousands of species thrive in the 

lush Northern and Central Ranges, while the south is 

continually invaded by animals washed down from the 

Orinoco in Venezuela, or in transit, as in the case of migratory birds. 

During the rainy season, the place seethes with life — flowers in 

sidewalks, bromeliads on electricity wires, birds everywhere. This 

tiny island (a mere 60km by 80km) is host to the greatest number 

of species for its size in the West Indies: 108 species of mammals; a 

growing number of recorded bird species (well over 400); 55 reptiles; 

25 amphibians; and 617 butterflies. Few places in the world 

match Trinidad for biodiversity. 

Turtle watching 

T&T is home to five of the seven species of sea turtles found globally. 

All are on the International Union for Conservation of Nature 

(IUCN) Red List — the vulnerable leatherback and olive ridley; the 

endangered green and loggerhead; and the critically endangered 

hawksbill. The leatherback, hawksbill, and green turtle nest on 

Eco experiences: seeing green 

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RAPSO IMAGING 

This page: a giant leatherback turtle makes her 

way back to sea after nesting at Las Cuevas 

Opposite: green turtles can often be seen on sea 

grass beds where they feed 

beaches, while the loggerhead and olive ridley are occasionally 

sighted at sea. 

Trinidad is one of the few places in the Caribbean 

where the giant female leatherback turtle practises 

the timeless “family tradition” of returning to the place 

where she was born to nest. After swimming through 

the rough waves of the Atlantic, she makes her way up 

the beach, laboriously digs a hole with her flippers into 

which she lays hundreds of eggs, and then “backfills” it 

before returning to the sea to mate again. 

As the second largest leatherback nesting site in 

the world, Trinidad receives more than 6,000 of these 

heavyweights (up to 2,000lb) every year, generally 

1 March–31 August. You can see them on any north or 

east coast beach, especially Matura and Grande Rivière 

(where you can see up to 50 a night, and even be lucky 

enough to spot the endangered blue-throated pipingguan 

or pawi bird). About two months later, the clutch 

of babies emerge from the sand and head for the open 

ocean. Peak season for seeing hatchlings is June–August. 

Conservation efforts in Matura and Grande Rivière 

require that permits be purchased to visit nesting sites. 

These can be arranged through authorised tour guides 

(Nature Seekers: 668-7337, Grande Rivière Nature Tour 

Guide Association: 670-4257/469-1288), local accommodation, 

or directly at Forestry Division offices. 


Tips 

* 

* 

* 

* 

Don’t use light or 

flash photography, 

which can disorient 

turtles; only infrared 

light should be used 

Do not approach or 

touch turtles, and 

stay out of their 

field of vision. Keep 

movements and 

noise to a minimum 

Campfires, driving, 

staking any object 

(like umbrellas), 

and building sandcastles 

on nesting 

beaches can destroy 

nests and kill hatchlings 

hidden in the 

sand 

Litter can trap 

hatchlings, and 

suffocate turtles if it 

enters the sea (they 

mistake plastic 

bags for jellyfish). 

53

A birder’s guide 

Trinidad is blessed with over 400 recorded bird 

species — among the top 10 countries in the 

world for the number of species per square mile. 

Peak birding season is November–May, but 

there’s lots to see year-round. Ornithologists 

flock here because of the diversity and accessibility of the 

birds. You can stay on the road and easily record 60 species 

on a single outing. Here’s where you’ll want to head. 

Hollis Dam 

Here in the hills of north Trinidad, spot swallow-tailed 

kites, golden-headed manakins, bay-headed tanager, 

blue-headed parrot, the rare blue and yellow macaw. 

The Heights of Aripo 

Three or four valleys east of the Arima–Blanchisseuse 

Road, leading to the highest point on the island (El Cerro 

del Aripo), you will find the blue-headed parrot, the 

grey-headed kite and the squirrel cuckoo, and rare visiting 

warblers such as the bay-breasted, black-throated 

blue, and blackpoll warblers. 


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Asa Wright Nature Centre 

This 1,500-acre sanctuary in the Arima 

Valley was one of the first nature centres 

to be set up in the Caribbean, offering a 

chance to see dozens of hummingbirds, 

tanagers, honeycreepers, and bananaquits 

feeding up close. The main centre 

and guesthouse are located on a former 

cocoa-coffee-citrus plantation. Trails 

through the rain forest bring you close 

to all sorts of wildlife, from trapdoor 

spiders and woodpeckers to blue emperor 

(morpho) butterflies. The long dry 

season (January–May) is when the most 

striking vegetation is in bloom, as well as 

in the shorter dry season (Petit Carême) 


This page: the rare oilbird is the only nocturnal, fruiteating 

bird in the world. Asa Wright has the country’s 

most accessible colony of them, while Cumaca 

(pictured) has the country’s largest 

Opposite: blue and yellow macaws were successfully 

re-introduced to Trinidad in the early 2000s after 

being extirpated by habitat loss and the pet trade 

in October. Open 9am–5pm for day visits, 

with guided walks (1.5hrs) at 10:30am 

and 1:30pm. There are numerous waterfalls 

and caves nearby, and an overnight 

stay gives you the chance to see rare oilbirds. 

Reservations required (667-4655). 

Entrance fee for non-residents of T&T: 

adults US$10; children 12 years and under 

US$6. Residents: adults TT$30; children 

TT$15 

55

WENDELL STEPHEN JAY REYES 

RAPSO IMAGING 

Top left: Green honeycreeper at Asa Wright 

Top right: Amethyst woodstar hummingbird at Yerette 

(this tiny bird first appeared in Trinidad in 2015) 

Bottom: Black-throated mango hummingbird 

RAPSO IMAGING 

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This picture: Scarlet ibis (Trinidad’s 

national bird) in the Caroni Bird Sanctuary 

Below: White-tailed trogons at Asa Wright 

RAPSO IMAGING 

RAPSO IMAGING 

For the birders 


57

A birder’s guide 

Yerette, Home of the Hummingbird 

For a more intimate experience of the hummingbird, 

spend a couple of hours at the home of Theo and Gloria 

Ferguson in Maracas, St Joseph. Their garden has 

a spectacular view of the Northern Range. Sit on the 

porch and enjoy juices, meals and pastries for breakfast, 

lunch or afternoon tea alongside purple honeycreepers 

and hummingbirds. Dozens of hummingbirds 

flit by, some a few inches away, as they sip from dozens 

of feeders and flowers. Theo is a knowledgeable 

host, with a collection of photos for sale, and a slide 

show about the tiny acrobats. 663-2623, yerettett.com 

This page: Long-billed starthroat hummingbird 

Opposite: an American flamingo flies over Caroni 

Swamp 

RAPSO IMAGING 

Pointe-à-Pierre Wildfowl Trust 

This is an oasis of ponds surrounded by green forest, set within the sprawling grounds 

of an oil refinery complex. It’s home to rare ducks, water lilies and lotus blossoms, cormorants, 

caimans, parakeets and peacocks. Researchers and birders can learn about 

efforts to reintroduce endangered wetland birds to their natural habitat. Small boats 

take you out on the two ponds, where you can photograph the whistling tree duck, 

kiskidee, purple gallinule, scarlet ibis, blue and gold macaw, wild muscovy duck, green 

heron, yellow-hooded blackbird, pied water tyrant, cardinal, ringed kingfisher, black 

skimmer, grey hawk, and the snakebird (or anhinga). A boardwalk along the first pond 

can be accessed by wheelchairs and baby strollers. An on-site learning centre houses a 

small First Peoples museum, and there is a full-service guesthouse. Advance bookings 

required: 658-4200 ext 2512, papwildfowltrust.org 

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Bush Bush Sanctuary and Nariva Swamp 

Turn off the Manzanilla main road at Kernahan Trace and within 15 minutes be in 

full-on swampland, complete with capuchin and red howler monkeys, blue and gold 

macaws, and toucans. Bush Bush is a protected island within the largest freshwater 

wetland in the Caribbean. Boating and kayaking are only possible in the rainy season. 

It’s imperative to go with a tour guide who will arrange permits from the Forestry Division 

(being without a permit in the reserve is punishable by a fine). Make sure to wear 

insect repellent, long pants, and light colours. 

Winston Nanan Caroni Bird Sanctuary 

A must on every birder’s list, this is 

the protected breeding grounds of the 

national bird, the scarlet ibis. Now renamed 

in honour of the veteran guide 

and conservationist, it’s located off the 

north-south highway a few miles outside 

of Port of Spain and just west of the 

airport. You will find the boats parked up 

and waiting (adults TT$50, children $35); 

most leave at 4pm. Within minutes the 

sound of cars fades and you enter the 

eerie silence of the swamp. Mangrove 

channels create a dramatic backdrop for 

the 100 species of birds that make their 

home here alongside snakes (boas) in 

trees, crabs and snails. Species spotted 

include the straight-billed woodcreeper, 

red-capped cardinal, juvenile night heron, 

pigmy kingfisher, tropical screechowl, 

common potoo, flamingo, osprey, 

great grey heron, and the great egret. At 

dusk the sky is filled with streaks of red 

as hundreds of scarlet ibis return to roost 

in trees on an island in the middle of the 

swamp. For the serious birder, a private 

tour can be arranged with a reputable 

guide. 755-7826, caronibirdsanctuary.com 

RAPSO IMAGING 


59

Architecture & built heritage 

KAZIM DANIEL 

The island’s history and its once extraordinary 

wealth are built into its varied architecture. 

One former great house from the days of sugar 

and cocoa plantations is the Boissiere Estate 

House in Maraval, now the Trinidad Country 

Club, and you’ll find mansions and public buildings in the 

popular early 19th-century neo-classical style like the 

Port of Spain General Hospital. Governor Ralph Woodford 

also sponsored the construction of the Cathedral of 

the Immaculate Conception (built 1816–1832) on Independence 

Square, and the Holy Trinity Cathedral on Woodford 

Square (completed 1818 in the Gothic Revival style); 

nearby is the Red House, once the seat of our parliament 

and now undergoing restoration works. The 20th century 

brought various contemporary architectural styles, including 

art deco (Treasury Building on Independence Square), 

and later the modernist movement and post-modern architecture. 

Here are some treasured buildings and sites, 

with much to recommend them beyond their architecture. 

The Christ the Redeemer statue at Mount St Benedict 

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Mount St Benedict 

This 600-acre property has a commanding 

view of the central plains from its 

perch at 245m/800ft in the Northern 

Range; you can see as far south as San 

Fernando. Founded in 1912, it is the oldest 

Benedictine monastery in the Caribbean. 

Early morning mass is still a must 

for Catholic devotees, as is afternoon tea 

on a Sunday at its cosy tea house. You 

can have scones and coffee while you admire 

the mountains from the back porch, 

where feeders attract hummingbirds at 

close range. The complex is a quiet retreat 

for birders and walkers, but be sure 

to go on the trails in groups or with a 

guide. 

RAPSO IMAGING 

The Temple in the Sea at Waterloo 

A monument to the human spirit, this Hindu mandir (pictured above) stands on the 

edge of the Gulf of Paria, on mudflats jutting out into the sea. Sewdass Sadhu — an 

indentured immigrant sugar worker from India — used to save his meagre wages and 

return to India every few years to worship at the holy shrines there. As the cost of the 

pilgrimage became too much, he decided to build a temple in Trinidad instead. Banned 

from building a temple on land by the British colonial authorities, he spent many years 

laboriously carrying bricks, cement and sand to the unused swampland offshore, laying 

the foundation for what would become a beautiful beacon for all. After he died in 

1970, it was left in the hands of the sea, until 1994 when work began on restoring his 

temple. A year later it was finally reopened, and a statue of him now stands watch 

over his work of the heart. 


61

RAPSO IMAGING 

Hanuman Murti (statue) & Dattatreya Yoga Centre 

Donated by an Indian swami, this 26m/85ft statue of Hanuman (the Hindu monkey god 

of strength) is reputed to be the tallest of its kind outside India. It towers above the 

adjoining Dattatreya Yoga Centre in Carapachaima. 

The “Magnificent Seven” 

These colonial-era homes on the northwestern edge of the Queen’s Park Savannah are 

in varying degrees of repair and use, reflecting their diverse histories and ownership. 

From south to north: Queen’s Royal College (1904, boys’ secondary school); Hayes 

Court (1910, Anglican Bishop’s residence); Milles Fleurs (1904, law association headquarters); 

Roomor (1904, private home); the Roman Catholic Archbishop’s residence 

(1903); Whitehall (1907); and Killarney or Stollmeyer’s Castle (1904). 

Stollmeyer’s Castle was built in 1904 

Architecture & built heritage 

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Chaguaramas 

The Chaguaramas National Heritage Park in Trinidad’s northwestern peninsula is just 

20 minutes from Port of Spain (with no traffic, of which there is a lot on weekends and 

public holidays). 

Home to the wondrous Tucker Valley, hikers, bikers, explorers, bird watchers, 

hashers, archers, and golfers all have their place in “Chag”, as it’s affectionately called. 

In addition to the emerald green waters of popular Macqueripe Bay (which is scheduled 

for upgrade works in 2018), the lush rain forests of the valley are crisscrossed 

with nature trails. Howler monkeys can be heard in the forest canopy and pairs of 

green parrots often pass. The Covigne River trail passes through nutmeg groves and 

along a tributary of the Cuesa River uphill through a gorge. Along the way, you will 

pass abandoned cocoa, coffee, and nutmeg plantations. The trail ends at a waterfall 

with a plunge pool. 

Easy day trips 

Edith Falls is located in an 

abandoned cocoa estate 

nestled against the eastern 

side of Morne Catherine 

and overlooking 

the golf course. A fairly 

gentle hike, you will see 

stands of majestic bamboo, 

heliconias, rubber 

trees and fishtail palms, 

and hear red howler monkeys 

(pictured) in the 

forest canopy along the 

trail. If you decide to hike 

on your own, inform the 

Chaguaramas Development 

Authority (225-4232, 

chaguaramas.com) 

Recent development 

in Chag is not without 

controversy for those 

who fiercely want to 

preserve the natural environment, 

rustic charm, 

and tranquillity of this 



63

treasured heritage park. But that hasn’t 

deterred those who enjoy the area’s latest 

man-made attractions, including the 

1,400ft of beachfront walkway known as 

the Boardwalk; gazebos are available for 

private get-togethers, while pedal-boat 

rides will keep the kids happy — as will 

the Five Islands Waterpark, and Safari 

Eco Park. 

Zip-lining 

With views of both forest and sea, ZIP-ITT 

has seven lines (one passes over Macqueripe 

Beach) and five canopy walks 

(net bridges) among the trees of Tucker 

Valley, where you might spot a howler 

monkey or two as you zip by. 

303-7755 

Down de Islands (DDI) 

Just off the northwest coast of Trinidad, 

several smaller islands have become beloved 

escapes. Many wealthy families 

have holiday homes here. Pirogues and 

fishing boats leave from marinas along 

the coastline, where hundreds of yachts 

and speed boats are stored. 

In the distance you can see mountains 

— the nearby coastline of Venezuela. 

There are the Five Islands (Caledonia, 

Craig, Lenagan, Rock and Nelson, which 

was where East Indian immigrants were 

quarantined when they arrived by boat); 

Diego Islands (Carrera, a prison island, 

and Cronstadt); Gaspar Grande; Gasparilo 

Island (aka Centipede); Monos; Huevos; 

and Chacachacare (which was once a 

leper colony). 

These islands were originally the 

ceremonial grounds of the First Peoples. 

They were later occupied by the Spanish. 

Chacachacare has saltwater ponds, 

ruins and a still-functioning lighthouse. 

On Gaspar Grande, the jetty at Point Baleine 

was once a whaling station. This is 

the home of the underground Gasparee 

caves, which are accessed via a staircase. 

Here you will find stalagmites and a still 

pool known as the Blue Grotto, with its 

“sunroof”. 

RAPSO IMAGING 

64 

discovertnt.com


Family 

friendly 

fun 

Queen’s Park Savannah 

This 260-acre park holds a very special 

place in the Trini heart. Originally part 

of the Peschier family’s Paradise Estate, 

a portion of land in the centre remains 

a burial ground; it was converted into a 

city park in 1817. The Caribbean’s oldest 

recreation ground — and reported to be 

the world’s largest roundabout at approximately 

3.5km/2.2 miles — the Savannah 

is popular for sports, kite-flying 

(especially around Easter), walking/jogging, 

and food/drink vendors. 

On the northern side, you will find 

the Emperor Valley Zoo (founded in 1947, 

tel: 622-5344) and the Botanical Gardens 

(established in 1820). Here you can relax 

among one of the oldest collections of 

exotic plants and trees in the Western 

Hemisphere. Children especially will enjoy 

seeing the zoo’s rare white Bengali 

tigers, lions and giraffes, and a chimpanzee 

who likes to watch TV. 

Across from the Savannah on the 

southeastern side is the Memorial Park 

and the iconic National Academy for the 

Performing Arts. Next door is the National 

Museum & Art Gallery, home to a 

permanent collection of 10,000 items in 

galleries focusing on art, social history, 

natural history, economic history, petroleum 

and geology, and 19th-century 

painter Michel-Jean Cazabon, as well as 

a small gallery dedicated to carnival arts. 

discovertnt.com 65

Zoology Museum (University of the West Indies) 

Some 70,000 animal specimens are preserved here — reptiles, amphibians, fish, insects, 

corals, crustaceans, and molluscs — with smaller collections of mammals and 

birds. The majority are from T&T, the rest from around the region. Among them is a 

collection from the Banwari site in south Trinidad, excavated in 1969–70. Dating back 

to 6000–4350 BC, this site is the earliest human settlement in Trinidad and probably 

the Caribbean, based on the items found — hand-stones, grinding slabs, arrows, awls, 

needles, a probable weaving tool, and an axe. The oldest human skeleton ever found in 

the Caribbean was also unearthed, and Banwari Man is also on display at the museum. 

Mud volcanos 

These geological wonders can be found 

mainly in the south of the island. 

Piparo: Also known as Morne Roche, 

* this volcano (111m/365ft, 425 acres) 

last erupted in 1997, spewing mud 

hundreds of feet in the air and forcing 

an evacuation of the area. 

* 

Devil’s Woodyard (Indian Walk): Majestic 

teak trees line the road to the site. 

A paved walkway takes you straight 

to the dozen small cones from which 

grey mud bubbles up. Concrete huts 

with tables and benches and other 

seating make this is a great place for a 

picnic. Large playground at one end of 

the park. 

Pitch Lake at La Brea 

One of the three largest natural deposits of asphalt in 

the world, it’s deceptively boring to look at — like a 

giant empty parking lot. But it’s what’s beneath that 

counts. This tar baby, nestled near the southwestern 

coast, is a natural wonder. Estimated to contain 10 

million tonnes of asphalt, and spanning 109 acres, the 

lake’s asphalt has been used to pave roads and airport 

runways. Pools formed by rain contain high levels of 

sulphur, which are good for the skin and joints. An important 

aspect of earth’s history, the lake holds deep 

secrets about the formation of oil and gas. Artefacts 

from the First Peoples, for whom the lake was sacred, 

have been unearthed here; some can be viewed at the 

museum in the visitor centre. 

* 

Digity Trace (Debe): Rising 6m/20ft in 

the air, you can climb up surrounding 

paths to get a look inside the 

mouth. It is more active during the 

rainy season. A second volcano, flat 

in shape, is located a short distance 

away. For those willing to try, you 

can scoop up some and make a 

much-touted DIY beauty treatment 

— a mud mask… 

Other volcanoes can be found at L’Eau 

Michel, Lagon Bouffe, Anglais Point, 

Erin, Chatam, Columbia Estate, Fullarton, 

Cedros, Galfa, Los Eros, Tabaquite, Cascadoux 

Trace, and Manzanilla. 

Fort George 

Built in 1804, this “virgin 

fort” (which never saw 

military action) offers a 

magnificent panoramic 

view from 335m/1,100ft 

above Port of Spain; its 

original cannon, cannon 

balls, and part of the dungeon 

remain. On a clear 

day, you can see to south 

Trinidad, and west to Venezuela. 

Open 10am–6pm, 

admission free 

66 

discovertnt.com

ARIANN THOMPSON 

Valencia Eco-Resort 

A 10-acre estate in the east, in the foothills 

of the Northern Range (half-hour 

drive from the airport). Hundreds of 

fruit trees including the now rare balata, 

plus caimate, tamarind, sapodilla 

and cashew, to name a few; with attendant 

flocks of birds and butterflies. Enjoy 

aerobics, archery, basketball, cricket, 

volleyball, football, table tennis and billiards, 

plus a universal gym. Fish for tilapia 

in the pond, cook in an outdoor carat 

shed or take a cool dip in the river (or 

the 2,000 square foot swimming pool). 

Also in the mix: peacocks, geese, parrots, 

guinea fowls, turkeys, ducks, tortoises, 

rabbits and monkeys. 731-6774, 

valenciaecoresort.com 

The view over Port of Spain from Fort George 

Angostura Museum and Barcant 

Butterfly Collection 

The Barcant collection, the only one of its 

kind in the region, comprises more than 

5,000 butterflies (700 species, including 

the blue emperor) in a re-created tropical 

forest. Children will thrill at the sight 

of the butterflies and sounds of nature 

as they walk through the “mountains of 

the Northern Range”. Angostura bought 

the collection in 1974 and it has been at 

the company’s compound (Eastern Main 

Road, Port of Spain) since. You can also 

take a tram tour introducing you to the 

history and making of their world-famous 

bitters and celebrated rums. Tours 

(two hours) are 9:30am and 1:30pm, Monday–Friday; 

advance booking required: 

623-1841, betancr@angostura.com 

San Fernando Hill 

Considered sacred by the 

Warao of the Orinoco Delta, 

it is known as Naparima 

Hill by our First Peoples, 

who believe it is home to 

one of their supreme spirits 

and also to their ancestor-hero, 

the maker of the 

first canoe. From the top 

you have a superb view 

of the heavily populated 

southern capital and surrounding 

areas. With free 

admission, lots of parking, 

visitor facilities, benches, 

picnic huts and a play 

park, the hill is a popular 

liming spot for families 

and a top event venue in 

the second city. 

Family friendly fun 


67

Map Key (applies to all maps) 

Police Station 

Hospital 

Turtle Nesting 

Shopping Centre 

Lighthouse 

Beach with 

Restrooms 

Caves 

Highway 

Gas Station 

Bird Watching 

Golf Course 

Scuba Diving 

Place of interest 

Food Available 

Museum 

Planned 

Highway 

Huevos 

Chacachacare 

Scotland Bay 

Monos 

Gaspar 

Grande 

Waterfall 

Sailing & boat tours 

Fort 

Airport 

Surfing 

Swamp 

Lifeguard on Duty 

Major roadway 

Macqueripe Bay 

Chaguaramas 

Diego Martin 

PORT OF 

SPAIN 

Pt Lisas 

Paramin 

Santa Cruz 

Morvant 

El Socorro 

Waterloo 

Couva 

California 

Maracas Bay 

Barataria 

San Juan 

Caroni Bird Sanctuary 

Chaguanas 

Tyrico Bay 

St Joseph 

Curepe 

Carapichaima 

Las Cuevas 

Freeport 

Tunapuna 

Piarco 

Gran Couva 

Lopinot 

Tacarigua 

A 

Pia 

Jerningham 

A 

Junction 

Cunupia 

Longdenville 

Claxton Bay 

Tortuga 

Pi 

Granville 

Pt Fortin 

Vessigny 

Cap De Ville 

La Brea 

Pitch Lake 

Mon Desir 

St Mary’s 

Siparia 

Pointe-à-Pierre 

SAN 

FERNANDO 

Fyzabad 

Oropouche 

Lagoon 

Vistabella 

Debe 

Penal 

Gasparillo 

Ste Madeleine 

Princes 

Town 

Barrackpore 

Bus 

New Grant 

India 

Wal 

Icacos Pt 

Icacos 

Cedros 

Erin Bay 

San Francique 

Palo Seco 

Los Bajos 

Quinam Bay 

68 

discovertnt.com

yrico Bay 

Las Cuevas 

Blanchisseuse 

Matelot 

Grande Riviere 

Galera Pt 

Toco 

Redhead 

Salybia Bay 

Brasso Seco 

Rampanalgas 

Joseph 

rou 

epe 

Tunapuna 

Lopinot 

Tacarigua 

Arouca 

Asa Wright Nature 

Centre 

Valencia 

Arima 

Hollis Reservoir 

Matura 

Salybia 

Balandra Bay 

Saline (Sally) Bay 

Matura Bay 

Piarco 

rco Intl 

Piarco Intl 

rningham irport 

Airport 

nction 

Cunupia 

San Rafael 

Cumuto 

Guaico 

Cunaripa 

Sangre 

Grande 

ngdenville 

Talparo 

Coryal 

Caroni-Arena Reservoir 

Manzanilla 

a 

eeport 

Gran Couva 

Todds Road 

Brasso 

Navet Dam 

Biche 

Manzanilla Bay 

Tabaquite 

Tortuga 

pa 

Piparo 

arillo 

Busy Corner 

Poole 

ine 

New Grant 

Tableland 

n Princes Indian 

k Town Walk 

Devil’s Woodyard 

ckpore 

Basse Terre 

Moruga 

Rio Claro 

Nariva Swamp 

and Bush-Bush 

Sanctuary 

Guayaguayare 

Rushville 

St Joseph 

Mayaro 

Mayaro Bay 

Galeota Pt 

N 

Trinidad map 


69

Cocorite, Westmoorings, Chaguaramas 

Kandahar St 

Maraval 

Ellerslie Park 

Link 

St James Medical 

Complex 

Coronation 

AUDREY JEFFERS 

Mathura 

Luckput St 

Salazar St 

Carlton Ave 

Romeo St 

George Cabral 

Lazare St 

Pujadas St 

HIGHWAY 

Bay Rd 

Ranjit Kumar St 

Angelina 

Quamina 

Church St 

Finland 

Ethel St 

Kathleen St 

Bournes Rd 

Brunton Rd 

WESTERN MAIN RD 

Dengue St 

Mooneram St 

Anderson St 

Vidale St 

MUCURAPO Rd 

Patna St 

Bombay St 

Weekes St 

Clarence St 

Baroda St 

Calcutta St 

Panka St 

Woodbrook Cemetery 

MovieTowne 

Delhi St 

Nizam St 

Sakar St 

Madras St 

Nepaul St 

Agra St 

Hyderabad 

St 

Henry Pierre 

Gaston 

Fatima Sports 

Grounds 

Hasely Crawford 

Stadium 

Long Circular 

Mall 

Jean Pierre 

Complex 

Bengal St 

Cawnpore St 

Johnston St 

Benares St 

Long Circular Rd 

Belle Smythe 

Lucknow St 

Taylor St 

Hamilton Holder St 

Hamilton St 

O’Connor 

Petra St 

Dennis Mahabir St 

St Lucia St 

Barbados Rd 

St James 

Police Baracks 

One 

Woodbrook 

Place 

Digicel Imax 

Damian St 

De Verteuil St 

Brabant St 

Kelly Kenny St 

Ana St 

Hunter St 

Petra St 

Trinidad Crescent 

Antigua Dr 

Gallus St 

Grenada 

Ana St 

Pole Carew St 

Gallus St 

Alberto St 

Dominica 

Nevis Ave 

St Mary’s Sports 

Grounds 

Alberto 

Jamaica Blvd 

Serpentine Rd 

Broome St 

ARIAPITA AVENUE 

Siegert Sq 

Luis St 

Rosalino St 

St Kitts Ave 

St Vincent 

Havelock 

St 

Roberts St 

Rosalino St 

Rapsey St 

Luis St 

Alfredo St 

Ellerslie Pl 

Elizabeth St 

Adam 

Smith Sq 

Carlos St 

Wainwright 

Alfredo St 

Scot 

Carlos 

Murray St 

Fl 

St 

Nelson Mandela Nelson ParkMandela P 

Me 

d 

Queen’s Park Qu 

Oval 

TRAGA 

rt S 

o St 

t K 

ince 

obe 

A 

Port of Spain 

John S Donaldson 

Techinal Institute 

on 

al In 

Taxi Stands 

1 

2 

3 

Ariapita Avenue/ 

Chaguaramas/Carenage 

Cascade 

Maraval 

5 

6 

7 

8 

St Anns/St James/Queens 

Park Savannah 

Belmont 

Diego Martin/Petit Valley 

Wrightson Rd/Long Circular 

10 

11 

12 

Curepe Tunapuna/ 

Arima/Sangre Grande 

San Juan 

Chaguaramas 

N 

N 

4 

Cocorite 

9 

Chaguanas/San Fernando 

13 

POS General Hospital 

70 

discovertnt.com

Flament St 

Archer St 

Maraval & Maracas 

St Ann’s 

a 

t 

nt 

St 

St 

lfredo St 

oo 

C 

ark 

rts St 

q 

Luis St 

Fit 

Ellerslie Plaza 

Rapsey St 

itts Ave 

Adam 

Smith Sq 

Carlos St 

Wainwright 

Elizabeth St 

een’s Park 

Oval 

Alfredo St 

aldson 

stitute 

Scott St 

Carlos St 

Murray St 

Flood St 

Fitt St 

Maxwell-Phillip 

St Clair 

Medical 

Sweet Briar Rd 

Alexandra 

Saddle Rd 

TRAGARETE RD 

Murray St 

Hayes St 

Gray St 

Mary St 

Alcazar St 

Rust St 

Flood St 

Herbert St 

Baden Powell St 

Cornelio St 

Newbold 

Vallot St 

Serpentine Rd 

Jackson 

Sq 

William St 

French St 

Lammy St 

Methuen St 

Mc Donald St 

Kitchener 

Buller 

Cotton Hill 

Queen’s 

Royal 

College 

Licensing Office 

Prada St 

Cruise Ship Complex 

Magnificent Seven 

Maraval Rd Maraval Rd 

Marli St 

Picton St 

Warner St 

Gatacre St 

WRIGHTSON RD 

Lady Chancellor Rd 

Woodford St 

TRAGARETE RD 

Sackville St 

Stone St 

Fire Station 

Horticultural 

Society 

Cipriani Boulevard 

Scott Bushe St 

Albion St 

Stanmore Ave 

Lapeyrouse 

Cemetery 

Shine St 

Charles St 

Botanical 

Gardens 

Emperor Valley 

Zoo 

QUEEN’S PARK SAVANNAH 

Victoria Ave 

Phillips St 

QUEEN’S PARK WEST 

Victoria 

Sq 

Dere St 

Melville 

Borde St 

Fraser St 

Melbourne St 

Sackville St 

London St 

Richmond St 

Dundonald St 

Park St 

Government 

Campus Plaza 

Chancery 

Lane 

Edward St 

St Vincent 

Keate St 

Gordon St 

New St 

Oxford St 

Abercromby St 

Pembroke St 

Nook Ave 

Prime Minister’s Residence 

and Diplomatic Centre 

President’s 

House 

La Fantasie 

Queen’s Hall 

NAPA 

National Museum 

QUEEN’S PARK EAST 

Knox St 

Memorial 

Park 

Frederick St 

Duke St 

Henry St 

Belmont Circular 

Cadiz Rd 

Charlotte St 

Cascade 

Coblentz Ave 

Hilton Hotel 

1 2 

Hall of Justice City Hall 

Red 

House Woodford 

Sq 

4 

5 

Hart St 

National 

Library 

6 

Queen St 

Palmiste St 

Charlotte St 

Norfolk St 

Prince St 

Lady Young Rd 

Industry 

Erthig Rd 

Jerningham Ave 

Port of Spain 

General Hospital 

Observatory 

Piccadilly 

3 

Cascade Morvant, Barataria, Churchill Roosevelt Highway 

Chacon St 

GULF OF PARIA 

International 

Waterfront Centre 

Water Taxi 

INDEPENDENCE SQ/BRIAN LARA PROMENADE 

South Quay 

7 8 

9 

10 11 

13 

12 

Terminus/City Gate 

Eastern Main Rd 


71

Morne 

Catherine 

St Clair 

Maracas Bay & North Coast Santa Cruz 

North Coast Rd 

Morne Coco Rd 

Cascade 

Long Circular Rd 

Lady YoungRd 

Queens Park 

Savannah 

Independence Sq 

Blue Basin 

Bagatelle 

Goodwood Park 

C o c o r i 

t e 

l f 

o f P 

a r i a 

a 

S e 

n 

e a 

Macqueripe 

Bay 

b b 

ri 

C a 

B o c a 

d e 

M o n o s 

Boca de Huevos 

Boca de Novios 

Boca Grande 

Chacachacare 

Huevos 

Monos 

Teteron Bay 

Gaspar Grande 

Chaguaramas Golf 

Course 

Edith 

Falls 

North Post 

Glencoe 

Paramin 

St Andrew's 

Golf Course 

Maraval 

St Ann's 

Saddle Rd 

St James 

Belmont 

Woodbrook 

Laventille 

Wrightson Rd 

Diego Martin Main Rd 

Tracking Station 

Gasparee Caves 

Petite 

Gourde 

Carrera 

Carenage 

Bay Carenage 

Chagville 

Five Islands 

Diego 

Pt 

Cumana 

West Mall 

Ft George 

PORT OF 

SPAIN 

Rd 

M a i n 

North west 

N 

River Estate & 

Waterwheel 

Diego 

Martin 

Petit 

Valley 

TUCKER VALLEY 

Scotland Bay 

The Dragon's Mouth 

Carenage 

C H A G 

U A R 

Western 

A M 

A S 

Western Main Rd 

Starlite 

Shopping 

Centre 

G u 

72 

discovertnt.com

Port of Spain 

Port of Spain 

Saline Bay 

Matura Bay 

Balandra 

Toco 

Cumana 

Bay 

N 

Sans Souci 

e a 

S 

a n 

b b e 

C a r i 

Grande 

Tacaribe 

Bay 

Madamas 

Bay 

Cumaca 

Grand 

Matelot 

Pt 

Matelot Bay 

Matelot 


Matura 

Salybia 

Salybia 

Bay 

Cumana 

Rampanalgas 

Galera 

Pt 

Toco Main Road 


Bay 

North east 

Paria Main Rd 

Paria Bay 

Yarra Bay 

La Fillette 

Chupara Pt 

Pt 

North Coast Trail 

Blanchisseuse Bay 

La Fillete 

Las Cuevas Bay 

Blanchisseuse 

North Coast Rd 

Tyrico Bay 

Rincon 

Brasso Seco 

Santa Cruz Maracas Falls 

Asa Wright 

Nature 

Sombasson 

La Veronica 

Centre Dunstan 

La Laja 

La Pastora Cave 

Caura 

Mt St 

Benedict 

Monastery 

Lopinot 

Guanapo 

Gorge 

Aripo 

Cumaca 

Rio Seco 

Valencia 

Tunapuna 

St Augustine 

Arouca 

ARIMA 

Tacarigua 

Curepe 

Las Cuevas 

El Tucuche 

(936m) 

Cleaver 

Woods 

El Cerro del Aripo 

(941m) 

Hollis Reservoir 

Caura Royal Road 

Lopinot Rd 

El Socorro 

University of 

the West Indies 

Santa Rosa Race Track 

Paria 

Maracas Bay 

G E 

A N 

N R 

H E R 

N O R T 

Maracas Royal Rd 

Saddle Rd 

St Joseph 

San Juan 

Barataria 

Eastern Main Rd 

Valsayn 

NGC National 

Science Centre 

D'Abadie 

Turure Water 

Steps 

Aripo Rd 

Heights of Guanapo Rd 

Arima-Blanchisseuse Rd 

Trincity 

Mall 

Wallerfield 

San Fernando San Fernando Sangre Grande 

Sangre Grande & East Coast 

Madamas 


73

Tunapuna 

Couva 

Southern Main Rd 

i n R d 

M a 

Toco Main R d 

Bay 

E a s te rn M a in Rd 

PORT OF SPAIN 

Lopinot 

Curepe 

Caroni Swamp and 

Bird Sanctuary 

El Socorro 

Valsayn 

Caroni 

Cunupia 

St Helena 

San Rafael 

Chaguanas 

Longdenville 

CARONI PLAIN 

Talparo 

Chase Village 

Waterloo 

Potteries 

Friendship Hall 

Carapichaima 

Todd's Rd 

Mundo Nuevo 

Valencia 

Tamana 

Bat Caves 

Manzanilla 

Upper 

Pt 

Manzanilla 

Lower 

Manzanilla 

Plum 

Mitan 

Brigand Hill 

Lighthouse 

Plum Mitan Rd 

L o p 

C a u r 

d 

y a 

d l 

i n o 

a R 

r a c a 

l R 

Yo u n g R d 

R 

C hu 

h i ll -R o o s e v e l t H i g h w a y 

r c 

Divali 

Nagar 

Piarco 

Piarco International 

Airport 

Temple in 

the Sea 

Hanuman 

Murti 

ORANGE 

ESTATE 

Freeport 

Southern Main R d 

California 

Brechin 

Castle 

Pt Lisas 

Industrial 

Estate 

Chicklands 

Flanagin 

Town 

La Vega 

Garden Centre 

Gran 

Couva 

Tortuga 

Mayo 

Pepper 

Village 

MONSTERRAT 

HILLS 

Brasso 

Tabaquite 

Brasso 

Venado 

Tabaquite 

Tunnel 

M a in R d 

C ou v a 

Solomon Hochoy Highway 

Claxton Bay 

Navet Dam 

& Reservoir 


Wildfowl 

Piparo 

Trust 

Brickfield 


San Fernando 

Reform Williamsville 

Marabella 

Bargain 

Indian 

Walk 

New 

Busy 

Corner 

Biche 

Cuche 

Navet 

Navet River 

Killdeer River 

Rio 

Claro 

THE 

COCAL 

Nariva River 

Nariva Swamp & 

Bush Bush Wildlife 

Sanctuary 

Manzanilla-Mayaro Rd 

Cumuto 

Cunaripa 

SANGRE 

GRANDE 

Pt 

Radix 

Mayaro 

Cunapo Southern Rd 

M a y a r o R d 

i ma 

N a pa r 

San Juan 

ARIMA 

Grand 

Bazaar 

Caroni- 

Arena Dam 

& Reservoir 

R A N G E 

R i o C l a r o G 

Blanchisseuse 

& North Coast 

Port of Spain 

Arouca 

Valpark Shopping 

Plaza 

Trincity 

Mall 

Uriah Butler Highway 

Ta lpa ro R d 

St Mary's 

Hollis 

Reservoir 

Central 

N 

C E N T R A L 

Tabaquite Rd 

SAN 

FERNANDO 

74 


32

Gulf of Paria 

Port of Spain Tabaquite Sangre Grande 

Nariva Swamp 

Cunapo Rd 

Rio Claro Tabaquite 

Solomon Hochoy Highway 

Pointe-à-Pierre Wildfowl Trust 

Naparima-Mayaro Rd 

Mayaro 

Rio Claro 

Tableland 

Indian Walk 

Rd 

Naparima 

Mayaro Bay 

St Madeleine 

Mayaro-Guayaguayare Rd 

Ortoire River 

Basse Terre 

N 

La Lune 

La Romaine 

La Brea 

Columbus 

Bay 

Fullarton 

Cedros Bay 

Devil's Woodyard Mud 

Volcano 

Bonasse 

Sixth Company 

Chatham 

North 

Pt Fortin 

Vessigny 

Granville Siparia 

Chatham 

South 

Icacos 

Erin 

Pt 

Princes 

Town 

Pitch Lake 

Oropouche 

Lagoon 

Southern Trunk Rd 

San Fernando-Siparia-Erin Rd 

Erin Rd 

Erin ( San 

Francique) 

Third Company 

Los Iros 

Debe 

Palo Seco Quinam 

Barrackpore 

Penal 

Guayaguayare 

TRINITY HILLS 

WILDLIFE SANCTUARY 

& RESERVE 

Rock Rd 

Galeota 

Pt 

Guayaguayare 

Bay 

TRINITY HILLS 

South 

Morne 

Diablo 

Moruga 


SAN FERNANDO 

Mon Desir 

Fyzabad 

Banwari 

Trace 


75

RAPSO IMAGING 

As always, some 

dates/events are 

subject to change 

or cancellation. 

And for more 

on many of these celebrations, 

see our Festivals pages 

pages on pg 30 (Trinidad) 

and pg 125 (Tobago). 

76 

January 

* 

1 (public holiday): New Year’s Day 

Carnival season begins (see full schedule of events 

on ncctt.org) 

28: National Panorama Semi-finals (Trinidad) 

Carnival Educative Arts Festival & Carnival Caravan 

(Tobago) * 

Trinidad & Tobago International Marathon 

* (Trinidad) 

February 

Carnival season continues (see full 

schedule of events on ncctt.org) 

9: Dragon Festival (Trinidad) 

* 

* 10: National Panorama Finals 

(Trinidad) 

11: Dimanche Gras (Trinidad) 

* 

* 12 & 13: J’Ouvert, Carnival Monday 

and Tuesday 

* 16: Chinese New Year (year of the 

dog) 

Tobago Carnival Regatta 

Talk Tent (calypso and comedy, Trinidad) 

* March 

* * 

17: Jazz Artists on the Greens (jaotg.com, 

Trinidad) 

30 (public holiday): Good Friday 

31 (public holiday): Spiritual Baptist 

Liberation Day — commemorating the 1951 

repeal of the colonial-era Shouters Prohibition 

Ordinance (1917), effectively banning 

this Christian and Orisha syncretic religion. 

The Baptists are also referred to as 

Shouter Baptists and Shango Baptists 

* 

* 

* 

* 


Phagwah (Holi) 

Tobago Game Fishing Tournament 

Pigeon Peas Festival (Trinidad) 

Turtle nesting season begins

April 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

2 (public holiday): 

Easter Monday 

25–29: Bocas Lit Fest 

— the Trinidad & Tobago 

literary festival 

Point Fortin Borough 

Day (Trinidad) — full 

week of J’Ouvert, mas, 

pan and parties leading 

up to the big street 

party 

Rally Trinidad 

Tobago Jazz Experience 

La Divina Pastora 

(Siparia, Trinidad) 

Tobago Fashion Coda 

May 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

19 & 20: Sea to Sea 

Marathon (Tobago) 


Indian Arrival Day 


Corpus Christi 

T&T Fashion Week 

2TFW 

Maypole Festival 

(Tobago) 

European Film Festival 


Decibel Entertainment 

Conference & Expo 


June 

* 

* 

* 

* 

15 (public holiday): Eid-ul-Fitr — The most 

widely recognised of our Islamic observances, 

Eid marks the end of the holy month of Ramadan, 

celebrated in homes and mosques 

19 (public holiday): Labour Day — marked by 

trade union marches and gatherings in Fyzabad, 

Trinidad 

Ganga Dhaara: Hindu river festival honouring 

the descent of India’s sacred River Ganges 

(Blanchisseuse, Trinidad) 

Tobago Dragon Boat Festival 

Rainbow Cup International Triathlon (Tobago) 

Salsa Fiesta (Trinidad) 

WeBeat Festival (Trinidad) 

Bloody Bay Fest (Tobago) 

Charlotteville Fisherman’s Festival (Tobago) 

Junior Tobago Heritage Festival 

This page: Spiritual Baptist Liberation Day is celebrated in March 

Calendar of events 

Opposite: Shynel Brizan, D Jab Queen, plays Maman Brigitte 

with Touch D Sky — a band of moko jumbies 



77

July 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

78 

15–1: Tobago Heritage 

Festival 

Great Fete Weekend 


Mango Festival 


Opera Festival 


Carnival band launch 

season begins 

(through September/ 

October) 

Motor Rally (Tobago) 

Trade & Investment 

Convention (Trinidad) 

Calendar of events 

August 

* 

* 

* 

* 

1 (public holiday): Emancipation Day 

31 (public holiday): Independence Day — commemorates 

the islands’ independence from Britain in 

1962, featuring a parade of the protective services; 

national awards; and fireworks 

Moruga Heritage Day Festival (Trinidad) 

Restaurant Week (Tobago) 

Arima Borough Day (Trinidad) 

Santa Rosa Festival (Trinidad) 

Castara Fisherman’s Fete (Tobago) 

Oshun River Festival (Trinidad) — marked by Orisha 

devotees celebrating the goddess of love, fertility 

and inland waters 

Angostura Bitter Rivals Contest (Trinidad) 

Pan on d’ Avenue (Woodbrook, Trinidad) 

Great Race (Trinidad & Tobago) 

Independence Cup Horse Racing at Santa Rosa 


Steelband Month 


KAZIM DANIEL

September 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 


Republic Day — marks 

the adoption in 1976 of 

a new republican constitution 

(in which a 

President replaced the 

Queen of England as 

the head of state, and 

the islands became 

a republic within the 

Commonwealth), and 

the first meeting of 

the republican parliament 

trinidad+ tobago film 

festival 

Restaurant Week 


Angostura Rum Festival 


Derby Horse Racing 

Classics (Trinidad) 

Tobago International 

Cycling Classic 

Maracas Open Water 

Swim (Trinidad) 

Parang Season opens 

October 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* * 

This page: the maracas or chac-chacs are one of the 

key instruments in parang music 

Opposite: Independence Day fireworks in the Queen’s 

Park Savannah 

Hosay (Trinidad) 

Blue Food Festival 


Ramleela Festival 


Steelpan & Jazz Festival 


Santa Rosa First 

People’s Heritage 

Week 

COCO Dance Festival 


Calypso History Month 

Chinese Arrival Dragon 

Boat Festival 


November 

* 

* 

* 

TBC (public holiday): 

Divali 

International Surf 

Festival (Trinidad) 

Green Screen: The 

Environmental Film 

Festival (Trinidad) 

December 

* 

* 

* 


Christmas Day 


Boxing Day 

Paramin Parang Festival 


COURTESY TDC 


79

Scheduled carriers 

* 

Aeropostal, 

Air Canada Rouge, 

American Airlines, British Airways, 

Caribbean Airlines, Copa, Condor, 

Conviasa, JetBlue, LIAT, Surinam 

Airways, Thomas Cook, United, Virgin 

Atlantic, and WestJet service T&T. 

Charter flights also operate 

Airports 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

Trinidad: Piarco International Airport 

(27km/17 miles from Port of Spain) 

Tobago: ANR Robinson International 

Airport (10km/7 miles from Scarborough) 

ENTERING T&T 

You will need to show a passport 

valid for three months beyond your 

intended stay 

Non-residents must have documentation 

for return or onward travel and a 

local address 

Visas are generally not required for 

visits up to 30 days, but double-check 

with your airline or travel agent 

before leaving 

GETTING TO T&T 

* 

* 

AIRPORT TRANSFERS 

Unless you are being met privately, 

take an authorised taxi from the 

airport to your destination, confirming 

the fare in advance (a list of fares 

is displayed in the arrivals area). If in 

doubt, check the taxi dispatcher 

Authorised private taxis have licence 

plates beginning with “H” (for “Hire”), 

and are not metered 

ARRIVING BY SEA 

(YACHTS & SAILING BOATS) 

Arriving yachts should have a clearance 

certificate from the last port 

* 

of call, and the vessel’s registration 

certificate (or authorisation for use) 

* 

In Trinidad, check in with Customs & 

Immigration at CrewsInn in Chaguaramas 

* 

In Tobago, check in with Customs & 

Immigration in Scarborough or Charlotteville 

Chaguaramas in Trinidad is the hub 

* of yachting activity, with sheltered 

anchorage (Yachting Association) and 

strings of maintenance and repair 

yards, marinas and essential services 

* 

Several 

CRUISE SHIPS 

cruise lines visit Trinidad 

and Tobago, mostly out 

of Miami between November 

and April, including Carnival, 

Crystal, Fred Olsen, Hapag- 

Lloyd, Holland America, MSC, 

Oceania Cruises, MV Adriana, 

NYK, P&O, Princess, Regent, 

Seven Seas, Saga, Seabourn, 

Silver Whisper, Windstar, and 

World Odyssey 

COURTESY TDC 

80 

discovertnt.com

GETTING AROUND IN T&T 

Taxis 

NB: Public taxis (bearing “H” number 

plates) are not metered, so confirm the 

fare in advance 

Private taxis: available at the airports 

* and through the larger hotels, as well 

as apps like Uber and the local Drop. 

Companies are also listed in the Yellow 

Pages 

* 

“Route taxis” (cars registered as taxis) 

and maxi-taxis (12- to 25-seat minibuses 

with brightly coloured bands) 

work specific routes, picking up and 

dropping off passengers anywhere 

along the way. They have designated 

stands in Port of Spain, San Fernando, 

Chaguanas, Scarborough and other 

main towns 

ANTHONY SLADDEN 

Buses 

* 

The Public Transport Service Corporation 

(PTSC, ptsc.co.tt) operates buses 

from Port of Spain to most towns, 

sometimes on an “express” basis, and 

from hubs in Chaguanas, San Fernando 

and Scarborough. Tickets ($2–12) 

or travel cards must be bought before 

boarding 

Car rentals 

* 

Local and international rental companies 

operate in both islands and at 

both airports 

Ferries 

* 

Inter-island ferry service (Port of 

Spain–Scarborough) operated by Port 

Authority (ttitferry.com), with the 

Visitor Info 

fastest ferries taking 2.5 hours. Tickets, 

which can be booked online: $100 

return (adults); $50 (children under 

12); free for children under three and 

senior citizens (65+); and $200 one 

way/$350 return for adults traveling 

with a vehicle 

Trinidad Water Taxi: west coast 

* service operated by the National 

Infrastructure Development Company 

(nidco.co.tt). Single journeys are 

30–45 minutes. Tickets $15 (adults), 

while infants under the age of one 

travel free, and senior citizens (65+) 

travel free on off-peak sailings 

Air bridge 

* 

Caribbean 


Airlines (625-7200, 

caribbean-airlines.com) operates several 

flights daily: tickets US$48 round 

trip (roughly 20 minutes each way) 

81

Money matters 

* 

* 

* 

Money: ABMs (ATMs) and credit/debit 

cards are routinely used 

Currency: Trinidad & Tobago dollar 

(TT$); US$1= approximately TT$6.8 

(floating exchange rate) 

Taxes: 10% room tax + 10% service at 

hotels; 12.5% VAT (value added tax) 

on most goods and services 

Driving 

* 

* 

* 

Driving 

Driving: on the left. Seatbelts are 

required by law 

Speed limits: Trinidad 80kph (50mph) 

on highways, 55kph (34mph) in 

settled areas; Tobago 50kph (32mph) 

permits: visitors can drive 

for up to 90 days on a valid foreign/ 

international licence 

Utilities 

* 

Electricity: 115v/230v, 60Hz 

Water: tap water is safe to drink (boil 

to be doubly sure); bottled water is 

widely available 

Communications 

* 

* 

Country phone code: +1 868 

Mobile telephones: bmobile (TSTT) 

and Digicel operate on GSM networks; 

SIM cards are available for unlocked 

phones 

WiFi: available at several hotspots, 

hotels, restaurants and malls in Trinidad 

& Tobago. Some PTSC buses also 

provide the facility 

TRAVEL BASICS 

Visitor Info 

* 82 


Safety 

Take practical precautions when travelling: 

note emergency numbers; always 

lock your room/house/vehicle (including 

windows); don’t wear expensive jewellery, 

and conceal/secure valuables; move 

in groups where possible; avoid deserted 

locations, and be aware of your surroundings. 

If you’re on the road, buckle 

up, and drive defensively 

Emergency contacts 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

Ambulance (public hospitals): 811 

Coast Guard: 634-4440, 634-8824, 

634-4439 

EMS (emergency medical services): 

624-4343 (north Trinidad), 653-4343 

(south/central Trinidad), 639-4444 


Hyperbaric medical facility (decompression 

chamber, Roxborough, 

Tobago): 660-4369 

Fire Services: 990 

Office of Disaster Preparedness and 

Management (ODPM) Emergency: 511 

Police Service: in Trinidad, 999 or 555; 

in Tobago, 639-2520 or 639-5590 

Tobago Emergency Relief: 211 

Tourism contacts 

* 

* 

Division of Tourism, Tobago: 

639-2125, visittobago.gov.tt 

Immigration Division: 625-3571 (Trinidad), 

639-2681 (Tobago), 

immigration.gov.tt 

Tourist information offices: 639- 

0509 (Crown Point Airport); 635-0934 

(Cruise Ship Complex, Tobago); 

669-5196 (Piarco Airport)


The view from Paramin of Port of 

Spain with the lights of Point Lisas 

visible across the Gulf of Pariah 

Trinidad & Tobago Tourism Industry Certification (TTTIC) 

Industry stakeholders (eg accommodation providers, tour guides/operators, vehicle 

rental and ground transport providers, and dive facilities) that are part of the TT- 

TIC programme have been audited by the Trinidad & Tobago Bureau of Standards. 

Approved providers display the TTTIC logo. 


83

Capital 

* 

National capital: Port of Spain 

* 

Tobago capital: Scarborough 

Climate 

* 

* 

* 

Tropical. Dry season January–May, 

wet June–December 

The islands are just south of the main 

hurricane belt (11°N, 61°W) 

Temperature range: 72–95°F (22– 

35°C); average 83°F (29°C) 

T&T IN A NUTSHELL 

Highest points 

* 

* 

Trinidad: El Cerro del Aripo 

(940m/3,085ft) 

Tobago: Main Ridge (549m/1,860ft) 

Size 

Visitor Info 

* Trinidad: 4,828km2 (1,864 sq miles) or 

105 x 80km (65 x 50 miles) 

* Tobago: 300km2 (116 sq miles) or 48 x 

16km (30 x 10 miles) 

Tobago and Trinidad are 33km (21 

* miles) apart; Trinidad is 10km (7 

miles) from Venezuela 


Time zone 

Prime Minister: Dr Keith Rowley 

* 

Atlantic Standard Time year-round 

* 

Ruling party: the People’s National 

(GMT/UTC -4, EST +1) 

Movement (PNM) 

Official opposition: United National 

Government 

* Congress (UNC) 

Trinidad & Tobago is a parliamentary 

* 

* 

Opposition leader: Kamla Persad- 

Bissessar 

democracy; elections have been held 

regularly since self-government in 

1956 

Official language 

* President: Anthony Carmona * English 

84 

discovertnt.com

Population & demographics 

* 

* 

* 

Religions: 

* 

Population: 1.4 million (Tobago approx 

61,000) 

Ethnicities: 35% of Indian descent, 

34% of African descent, 23% mixed 

22% Roman Catholic, 32% 

Christian (including Anglican), 18% 

Hindu, 5% Muslim 

Urban populations: Port of Spain 

37,000 (nearly 600,000 between 

Chaguaramas and Arima); Chaguanas 

84,000; San Fernando 49,000; Scarborough 

17,000 

Economy 

* 

* 

* 

Major resources: oil and natural gas 

Major industries: petroleum and 

petroleum products, liquefied natural 

gas (LNG), methanol, ammonia, urea, 

light manufacturing and assembly, 

agriculture/agriprocessing 

Major services: tourism, conference 

and convention facilities, financial 

services, construction 

Key indicators (2016): GDP per capita 

approx US$16,000; unemployment 

rate 3.9%. The economy contracted by 

2.3% for 2016, and was expected to 

grow by less than 1% for 2017 

Sustainable tourism tips 

Buy local goods and souvenirs 

Mind your gas (petrol): choose the smallest vehicle to suit your needs; drive 

within the speed limit; don’t let your car idle; keep your tires inflated; try to carpool; 

and when you can, walk or cycle 

Recycle: plastic, glass, cans, paper, cardboard, and e-waste are all recyclable locally 

through bins at various locations, or through collections 

Reduce: turn off electrical devices when you don’t need them; avoid plastic bags 

and styrofoam; buy and consume only what you need; reuse when you can. 

1 

CLICK 

2 

PROVIDE 

PURCHASE YOUR 

FERRY TICKETS 

https:\\www.ttitferry.com 

Details on Passenger/Vehicle 

ONLINE 

3 

PAY 

4 

PRINT 

Provide Credit Card Information 

Ferry Tickets and Present at Check In 


85

T&T HISTORY AT A GLANCE 

c 15,000–1,000 BC: islands part of South 

America; settled by Amerindians 

or First Peoples 

1498: Christopher Columbus lands in 

Trinidad, claims island for Spanish 

and names it after Catholic 

Holy Trinity 

1596: Tobago claimed by British 

1627–50: Courlanders settle Tobago’s 

west coast near Plymouth, and 

Dutch the east 

1781: French seize Tobago, convert it 

to sugar colony 

1783: Spanish governor Chacón’s Cedula 

de Población entices Catholic 

white and free coloured settlers 

to Trinidad with land incentives; 

rapid development begins 

1797: Trinidad captured by Sir Ralph 

Abercromby’s British fleet 

1806: first Chinese workers imported 

to Trinidad 

1834–38: slavery abolished in the British 

Empire, leading to apprenticeship 

(1834) then emancipation 

(1838) 

1834–1917: indentured labour imported 

to Trinidad from other islands, 

China, Portugal, Syria, Lebanon, 

and India 

1857: first oil well drilled in Trinidad 

near Pitch Lake 

1889–98: Tobago merged with Trinidad; 

Tobago Assembly disbanded 

1908: commercial oil production begins 

in southern Trinidad 

1914: first calypso recorded in Trinidad 

1925: first national elections (limited 

franchise) 

1931: Piarco International Airport 

opens 

1935–41: first steelpans emerge in 

Laventille, Trinidad 

1807: slave trading abolished in British 

empire 

1814: Tobago ceded to British under 

Treaty of Paris 

COURTESY TDC 

86 

discovertnt.com

1937: oilfield and labour strikes led in 

southern Trinidad by Tubal Uriah 

“Buzz” Butler 

1940: Crown Point Airport opens in 

Tobago; national airline British 

West Indies Airways (BWIA) commences 

operations 

1941: Chaguaramas peninsula leased 

to United States for 99 years; 

American military remain 

through World War II 

1945: public emergence of steelbands; 

universal suffrage implemented 

1951: repeal of ordinance prohibiting 

activities of Spiritual “Shouter” 

Baptist faith 

1956: self-government under Eric Williams’ 

People’s National Movement 

(PNM) 

1960: Trinidad campus of University of 

the West Indies (UWI) established 

1962: islands gain independence from 

Britain; Williams becomes first 

prime minister 

1963: Hurricane Flora devastates 

Tobago; Chaguaramas returned 

to Trinidadian control 

1974: Garfield Blackman (Ras Shorty I) 

releases first soca album 

1976: new republican constitution 

1980: Tobago House of Assembly 

restored; islands enjoy economic 

prosperity 

1983: oil prices fall, crippling local 

economy 

1986: National Alliance for Reconstruction 

(NAR) unseats PNM in national 

elections; Tobagonian ANR 

Robinson becomes prime minister 

2007: Caribbean Airlines replaces BWIA 

as national carrier; record oil 

prices fuel economic boom 

2010: UNC-led coalition government 

(People’s Partnership) ousts PNM 

at general and local elections 

under Kamla Persad-Bissessar, 

the country’s first female prime 

minister 

2015: oil prices crash, causing economic 

slowdown; PNM, under Dr Keith 

Rowley, wins general elections. 

Visitor Info 


87

88 

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90 

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Intro 

Looking north from 

Scarborough over the Claude 

Noel Highway and toward the 

rugged Atlantic coast 

And exhale… Here, there are drop-dead gorgeous 

beaches to explore, plus waterfalls, rivers, 

and forests. And then there are the reefs 

— an underwater kingdom of corals with 

hundreds of sea creatures, including manta 

rays and hammerhead sharks. Little Tobago is a wild and 

wonderful outcrop where tropicbirds and frigatebirds fight 

over fish, and crash-land among the cacti. A warm Tobago 

welcome to you. Kick off your flip-flops and dive in! 



91

COURTESY VILLAS AT STONEHAVEN 

Places 

to stay 

An Oasis of Serenity 

Ideal for Families, 

Reunions and 

Intimate 

Weddings 

www.plantationbeachvillas.com 

info@plantationbeachvillas.com 

Tel: (868) 639-9377 

Black Rock, Tobago 

* 

* 

Around Crown Point: the lovely Bananaquit 

Apartments, Belleviste, Coco 

Reef, Crown Point Hotel, Kariwak Holistic 

Haven (for yoga, natural living, 

and delicious food), Sandy Point, the 

intimate Sunspree Resort (with pool, 

restaurant, and bar), and all-inclusive 

Tropikist Beach Hotel & Resort 

Caribbean coast: the charming Miller’s 

Guest House (Buccoo); and — all 

around Black Rock — the luxurious 

Plantation Beach Villas (with direct 

access to Stonehaven Bay), Seahorse 

Inn, Le Grand Courlan, and — perfect 

for a group lime, reunion or family 

vacation — the opulent, full-service 

Villas at Stonehaven are perched on a 

hill with magnificent ocean views and 

lovely landscaped grounds 

92 

discovertnt.com

Tranquil waterfront setting 

R ESORT 

L T D 

Overlooking unspoilt 

Buccoo Bay, Miller’s 

has fully-airconditioned, 

budget-friendly, 

apartments and rooms 

with complimentary WiFi. 

Our Luvinia’s Seafood & Steak Restaurant 

provides the perfect location for drinks and 

romantic meals. 

office@millersguesthouse.com 

Tel: (868) 660 8371 

Buccoo Point, Tobago 

Bananaquit 

APARTMENTS TOBAGO 

Apartments with kitchens close 

to airport and beaches 

restaurant 

air conditioning 

cable tv 

free wifi 

 

service 

868 368 3539 | bananaquit.tobago@gmail.com 

www.bananaquit.com 


93

COURTESY MAGDALENA GRAND 


* 

Atlantic Coast: The Magdalena Grand 

Beach & Golf Resort features all-inclusive 

options, three pools, a kids club, 

multiple restaurants, a golf course, and 

a dramatic windswept beachfront 

94 

discovertnt.com

DISCOVER, EXPLORE, DREAM 

Discover the beautiful and unique Island of Tobago. 

Discover the beautiful rainforest, natural waterfalls, Nylon pool and so much more. 

Discover nature at its finest with rare and beautiful orchids, butterflies, and birds. 

Discover relaxation at one of our three pools, beach, spa and fitness center. 

Discover new and delicious food selections at one our three restaurants and cafe. 

Discover Magdalena Grand Beach & Golf Resort, Tobago’s fi nest oceanfront resort. 

Tobago Plantations Estate, Lowlands, Tobago, Trinidad & Tobago, West Indies 

 

WWW.MAGDALENAG RAND. COM

* 

* 

Green retreats: a few of the places 

doing their bit for the environment 

— Cuffie River Nature Resort (near 

Runnemede); Adventure Eco Villas 

and Top o’ Tobago (in the hills above 

Arnos Vale); Footprints Eco-Resort 

(Culloden); Villa Being (Arnos Vale); 

and for divers and birders, Blue Waters 

Inn and Top Rankin Guesthouse 

(Speyside) 

Buy your place in the sun: Looking to 

buy your own piece of Tobago paradise? 

Check out agents like Caribbean 

Estates, Lands & Villas. 

FARAAZ ABDOOL 

A Trinidad motmot (of the 

Blue-crowned motmot 

family) shakes off the 

raindrops from a brief 

Tobago downpour 


96 

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Savour the flavours 

98 

Fresh seafood is one of the healthiest things 

about Tobago. You can buy fresh fish, shrimp, 

crab and lobster (during open season) every 

day from fishermen on beaches like Castara and 

Parlatuvier, on the way to Pigeon Point, Mt Irvine 

Bay, and at roadside stalls all over the island. Most restaurants 

use fresh ingredients to make specialties such as curry 

crab and dumpling, crab and callaloo (a soup made from 

dasheen bush, coconut milk and ochroes), coocoo, coconut 

bake and buljol, oil-down, and breadfruit pie. Tobagonians 

love ground provisions like cassava, yam, dasheen, eddoes, 

and tannia. 

Sweet tooth tip 

If you need a sugar fix, all kinds of goodies are within 

reach (at the airport, Store Bay, in shops and groceries) 

— benne balls and sticks, toolum, pawpaw balls, tamarind 

balls, sugar cake, cassava pone. And fudge — beware 

the fudge! It comes in divine flavours like coconut, 

soursop and rum and raisin. 


BENNYARTIST /SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

* 

* 

* 

In and around Crown Point: Good Eats 

Tobago (tasty, healthy, fairly priced 

food and drink); Kariwak (Caribbean 

fusion); La Cantina Pizzeria; Skewers 

(a halal Middle Eastern grill with a 

Trini flavour) 

Bon Accord: Crafter’s Steakhouse & 

Grill (offering up mouth-watering 

cuts and decadent cocktails); and 

Mesoreen Café Bistro (delicious food, 

plus free pick-up and drop-off to/from 

your accommodation!) 

Pigeon Point Road: The Pasta Gallery 

(Italian), Kafta’s (Mediterranean), 

Café Coco (surf and turf) 

PLACES TO EAT 

* 

* 

Store Bay: delighting locals and 

lovers of creole food since the ‘80s, 

vendors here sell crab and dumpling; 

curry goat or stew chicken with 

callaloo and provision; coocoo (like 

foofoo, made from cornmeal); roti 

(Indian flour wrap); bake and shark 

(which we discourage – ask for flying 

fish or kingfish instead, to preserve 

what’s left of our endangered 

sharks). The best dessert to finish 

with? Homemade ice-cream — in flavours 

like rum and raisin, barbadine, 

soursop, coconut, or Guinness 

Buccoo: Revs Steakhouse & Bar (Shirvan 

Road); La Tartaruga (Italian) 

Curried crab and dumpling is a 

must-eat in Tobago 


99

Savour the flavours 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

Black Rock: The Seahorse 

Inn; Pavilion at Stonehaven 

(international); Fish Pot 

(Pleasant Prospect) 

Lowlands: Kali’na (Caribbean 

fusion) and Salaka Grill 

at the Magdalena Grand; 

Caffè Mia (Italian) 

Lambeau: Shore Things 

Café (Caribbean/international) 

Scarborough: Salsa Kitchen; 

Ciao Café & Ciao Pizza (Italian) 

Speyside: Aqua (Blue Waters 

Inn); Jemma’s Seaview 

Kitchen. 

GOOD 

food 

GOOD 

prices 

*Cnr Crompstain & Milford Rds, Crown Point, Tobago 

Tel: (868) 639-8660 goodeatstobago 

*Across the road from the ANR Int. Airport! 

100 

discovertnt.com

There are more than enough bars, 

restaurants, clubs, casinos and 

open-air party venues to keep 

you happy — especially on the 

western side of the island. 

Arts & 

COURTESY THE SHADE NIGHTCLUB 

entertainment 

Bars & clubs 

* 

* 

The Shade (Bon Accord): Friday and 

Saturday nights draw huge crowds to 

the open-air carat-thatched bar, and 

the varied playlist 

Bar Code (Scarborough): a sports bar 

with two pool tables and open-air 

seating with views of the esplanade 

and sea 

* 

* 


Prophet Benjamin wows 

the crowd 

Jade Monkey (Crown Point): a bar, 

grill, and casino featuring cocktails, 

pub food, and DJ music so you can 

dance the night away 

Sahara and Rouge (Buccoo Town 

Plaza): pool halls, casinos, and 

karaoke nights; Itsy Bitsy Folk Theatre 

presents dinner theatre several 

Tuesdays during the year. 

101

COURTESY MAGDELENA GRAND 

Screen time 

The multiplex MovieTowne cinema (Gulf City Lowlands Mall) screens the latest 

blockbusters, and regional fare courtesy the Trinidad & Tobago Film Festival. 

Live music 

* 

* 

* 

Chart House/Sundowner’s Bar (Crown Point Hotel): Thursday–Saturday 

Kariwak (Crown Point): Friday & Saturday sees the Kariwak Players perform 

Blue Haven (Scarborough): Thursday (guitarist), Friday (pan) & Sunday (band) 

Robinson Crusoe Pub (Magdalena Grand, Lowlands): Wednesday (karaoke), Friday 

& Saturday (band) 

Pelican Reef Bar and Grill (Crown Point): Tuesday (guitarist), Wednesday–Friday 

(band) 

Café Iguana (Crown Point): Thursday (live jazz), Friday (local band), Saturday 

(African drumming), Sunday (Latin dancing). 

Sunday School 

The hymns are a little different from what you might be used to, but when 

you ketch the spirit, well… it’s heaven on earth. Join the locals for a baptism 

of fire at the famous Sunday School street party in Buccoo. Shake a 

leg to the steelpan music from the Buccaneers from 9pm. Craft, food and 

even gambling stalls fill the street. From 11pm, the locals get cranking… 

and can go until sun-up, so pace yourself. 

102 discovertnt.com 

Arts & entertainment

Shopping 

For fine artistinal shopping (herbal products, 

jewellery, clothing, local craft), 

head to Things Natural in Crown Point. 

For everything else, head to the Gulf City 

Lowlands Mall, or the plazas in Crown 

Point like Shirvan Town Plaza, Milford 

Bay Plaza, Buccoo Town Centre, and 

Shoppes@Westcity. NB: Please don’t buy 

anything made from endangered or environmentally 

sensitive species (eg coral, 

sea turtles, conch, some snakes, some 

birds). If in doubt, ask, and if the answer 

is dodgy, don’t buy it. 

CEE WEE DESIGNS 

If you’re in the market for local 

handbags, make sure to check 

out Cee Wee Designs 

 

 

Intimate Tobago Weddings 

create memories in paradise 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Packages include 

* Breathtaking Blooms 

* Unique Venues 

* Outstanding Menus 

* Distinctive Decor 

* Professional Vendors 

www.tobagoflowersonline.com 

(868) 660 7748/395 8330 


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COURTESY RADICAL SPORTS 

& wild 

104 

Wet 

discovertnt.com

There’s fantastic swimming, 

diving, and snorkelling in Tobago, 

whether in the sea, a 

river, under a waterfall, or in 

a pool… 

* 

* 

* 

BEACHES, RIVERS, WATERFALLS, 

WATER SPORTS 

Electric boogaloo (Crown Point): If you 

move around in Bon Accord Lagoon, 

the water comes to life — in electric 

blue! This amazing natural wonder 

(known as bioluminescence) occurs 

around the time of the new moon 

when millions of phytoplankton emit 

flashes of light to startle predators. 

A definite buzz… Radical Sports: 631- 

5150, radicalsportstobago.com 

Pigeon Point (Crown Point): Beautiful 

turquoise waters and lots of fish 

to see around the jetty, where you 

can take a glass-bottomed boat to 

Buccoo Reef and the Nylon Pool, rent 

jet skis, windsurf, or parasail. Calm 

waters and lots of beach to explore. 

Good facilities — changing rooms, 

restaurant, bar, shops with inflatables, 

snacks and swimwear. Huts 

with tables are available for free and 

you can rent a sun lounger. Entrance 

fee: TT$20 

Nylon Pool (near Buccoo Reef): This 

world-famous spot off the southwestern 

coast was so named by Princess 

Margaret who said the water 

was as clear as her nylon stockings. 

A wallow in its shallow waters is also 

said to rejuvenate both the skin… 

and relationships. So the story goes. 

If you’re lucky, you will be joined in 

this reputed fountain of youth by 

baby stingrays. The nearby No Man’s 

Land is a great spot to cook a freshly 

* 

* 

* 


caught snapper or lobster, and the 

popular Buccoo Reef is nearby. 

Englishman’s Bay (near Castara): 

This is a lovely, secluded beach with 

a river at one end and lots of coconut 

and palm trees. Usually there are only 

a few visitors so the place is quiet 

and peaceful. Take care as the waves 

can be powerful due to the sharp 

drop-off of the shoreline very close to 

the beach. 

Castara (Caribbean coast): This 

delightful and quiet little bay has a 

lagniappe (added benefit) — bread 

yummy enough to eat just by itself, 

baked fresh in the traditional outdoor 

oven behind the local primary school 

on Wednesday and Saturday mornings. 

Women from the village also 

make cakes and pastries. Castara is a 

beautiful unspoiled village with comfy 

guesthouses. A waterfall in the rainforest 

is an easy walk from the bay. 

The water is quite calm with a nice 

reef quite close to the shore. The small 

beach bar serves a generous lunch. 

Bloody Bay (near Parlatuvier): 

Majestically surrounded by mountains, 

watch stingrays in the water 

from the jetty, and fishermen hauling 

in their nets as pelicans pilfer from 

the catch and frigatebirds swoop to 

catch fish jumping out of the water. A 

river flows into the sea at one end of 

this crescent-shaped beach. There’s 

a newly built changing facility. As 

for the name, a sign on site gives 

an explanation, but there are three 

working theories: a battle circa 1666; 

a slave uprising 100 years later; and 

pigment from red dyewood trees… 

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Wet & wild 

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* 

* 

Pirate’s Bay (Charlotteville): Secluded 

and serene, you can get here by boat, 

or take a short hike from Charlotteville. 

There are about 100 steps to 

walk down, but the stunning views 

make it worthwhile. Calm waters, 

excellent for getting some Vitamin 

S – sunbathing, swimming and snorkelling. 

The rain forest comes right 

down to the beach so you can sit with 

binoculars and watch birds feeding 

in the water, and crabs and snails on 

the rocks. 

Argyle Waterfall (pictured): Tobago’s 

highest waterfall (54m/175ft), Argyle 

tumbles over three tiers into a deep 


pool. Located on the northeast side of 

Tobago, the Roxborough Visitor Service 

Co-op office is the entrance, where 

you can hire a guide. Butterflies, birds 

and bromeliads can be seen along the 

trail that leads to the falls. If you are 

adventurous, climb up the steep path 

on the right to the second level of the 

falls. Bathe in the natural “rock tubs”. 

At the highest level, the pool is deep 

with vines overhead that are perfect 

for swinging (carefully). There’s a 

changing area, and gumboots for hire. 

Wear comfy, good-gripping shoes, 

sunscreen, and bring bug spray and 

a towel. Admission $60 adults, $30 

 

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Wet & wild 

COURTESY RADICAL SPORTS 

* 

* 

More thrills and spills in the water: 

Kite-surfing, kite-boarding, kayaking, 

stand-up-paddling, surfing, sailing... 

If these are your thing, head to Pigeon 

Point, Mt Irvine, Charlotteville, and 

Little Rockly Bay. Radical Sports: 

631-5150, radicalsportstobago.com 

Being with horses (Buccoo): If you 

love animals, the sea, and have a soft 

spot for rescued horses with moving 

back-stories, then you’ll want to 

check out Being With Horses. Run by 

German-born Veronika La Fortune and 

her husband Lennon, they offer sunset 

swim-ride sessions, trail rides, picnic 

rides, and horseback weddings. 

639-0953, being-with-horses.com 

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JONATHAN GOMEZ 

Many of the dive sites here are drift dives, 

which means that you just go with the 

flow — literally. You adjust your buoyancy 

to follow the current; keep in mind the 

dive briefings; and follow the dive master. 

If you’ve never tried drift diving, don’t worry. Most of the 

dive centres offer a course that will prep you, plus PADI 

certification (Open Water, Advanced and Rescue Diver). 

Contact a member of the Association of Tobago Dive Operators 

(ATDO, tobagoscubadiving.com), like Undersea Tobago 

(631-2626, underseatobago.com). 

Diving: kingdom of the corals 


109

Flying Reef (in the south) has huge plate coral 

colonies, nurse sharks and stingrays. Divers Dream is 

recommended for experienced divers because of the 

strong current. Pelagics hang out along the ledges and 

overhangs. 

On the Caribbean side of the island, the wreck of 

the M/V Maverick sits at 33m/100ft. Once the passenger 

ferry between Trinidad and Tobago, it was sunk as a 

dive site in April 1997. Snappers and rainbow runners 

scamper in the shadows of the car deck. Schools of bait 

fish frolic on the upper deck (depth of 18m/60ft). Arnos 

Vale is a shallow dive (maximum 13m/40ft) that yields 

lobster, eels and torpedo rays in the sand. 

The Sisters (northwest) are rock pinnacles that rise 

from the depths of the seabed, attracting hammerheads 

and manta rays. London Bridge, which is off the St Giles 

Islands in the northeast, is a treasure trove of tarpon, 

turtles and sharks — even octopus (check the holes in 

the rock face). Boulder Valley (off Charlotteville, at the 

mouth of Man O’ War Bay) has huge sponge and coralencrusted 

boulders, like giant marbles strewn across a 

fantastically coloured carpet. 

Most of the dives off Speyside are drift dives along 

sloping reefs around Little Tobago (aka Bird of Paradise 

Island) and Goat Island. Kelleston Drain is home 

to the largest living brain coral in the world; you may 

spot a nurse shark taking a nap below it. Thousands 

of bicolour damselfish flit among vase sponges, purple 

pope sponge and green algae in the Japanese Gardens. 

A hard right turn between two large rocks and the current 

will take you through Kamikazee Cut. This reef 

is covered with brightly coloured sponges and corals. 

Seemingly unending soft coral growth sprouts from the 

granular white sand on the reef top. Check under the 

ledges for nurse sharks. 

Water temperatures range from 75°F (24°C) in January 

and February to 82°F (28°C) mid-year. Most divers 

find that 3mm neoprene is sufficient thermal protection 

year round. 

This page: the bearded fireworm, while pretty to look at, is a 

voracious predator and can give a swimmer a nasty sting 

Previous page: the aggressive Red lionfish (spotted here at 

Culloden Reef) is an invasive species that arrived in Tobago 

waters in 2012. It can decimate native reef populations if not 

kept in check. Good news though: they’re delicious! 

110 

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Diving: kingdom of the corals 

LYNSEY ALLAN /SHUTTERSTOCK.COM 


111

Game fishing is fantastic here, with the main offshore 

season lasting from October to June. Anglers 

can expect to do battle with blue marlins, 

white marlins, swordfish, wahoo, tuna, barracudas, 

mahi-mahi (dolphin-fish) and sharks. 

Large game fish migrate south for the winter and chase the 

schools of small flying fish, which love the warm Caribbean 

waters. 

112 

In peak season (November), 

wahoo are so 

plentiful anglers are kept 

busy from dawn to dusk. 

Typical catches range between 

30 and 65lb; you 

could be lucky and nab 

one of the half dozen 

100-pounders caught every 

year. 

Marlin can weigh up 

to 1,200lb at the northwestern 

end of the island, 

just a couple of miles 

offshore (between Sisters 

Rocks and the Giles 

Islands). An annual tournament 

is held in Charlotteville 

in March (tgft.com, 

632-6608). International 

anglers should book well 

in advance. 

A typical half-day 

offshore charter can cost 


Plenty of fish in the sea 

you US$350–$500, which 

includes refreshments 

and tackle. Reputable 

game fishing charters operate 

a catch and release 

programme where most 

billfish are tagged and 

then set free, rather than 

gaffed and killed. 

PROJECT1PHOTOGRAPHY /SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Though fewer in number than Trinidad, the 

nesting turtles in Tobago are much easier to 

get to. Hundreds of giant leatherbacks and 

hawksbills nest on three main beaches — 

Turtle Beach, Mt Irvine and Grafton. Hawksbills 

nest in great numbers near the Magdalena Grand. 

A giant leatherback turtle 

heaves her bulk out of the 

water to nest 

Ancient 

mariners 

March–September is nesting season for the leatherbacks 

who may come from as far away as Australia to 

nest on the beach where they were born. Their hatchlings 

will emerge six to eight weeks later and head 

for the sea. Green turtles and hawksbills inhabit the 

coastal waters year-round, and you can spot them foraging 

for food on the reefs and sea grass beds. 

Many resorts on nesting beaches can notify you 

either when nesting turtles have been sighted, or 

when clutches of baby turtles are ready for release. 

For tours and information, contact SOS Tobago (Save 

Our Sea Turtles Tobago, 328-7351), or a reputable 

tour guide. You can become a volunteer and join SOS’ 

efforts in tagging turtles, counting nests, and rescuing 

disoriented hatchlings. You must commit to a minimum 

of four weeks. 


* 

* 

COURTESY TDC 

THINGS TO 

REMEMBER 

Do not touch or disturb 

nesting turtles 

or hatchlings. Try to 

be quiet and unobtrusive, 

and do not use 

flashlights or flash 

photography. Lights, 

noise and activity can 

disorient both turtles 

and hatchlings 

Do not drive on nesting 

beaches — the 

weight of the vehicle 

can crush eggs buried 

in the sand. 

113


Tobago is small enough for much of it to be seen 

in a day, especially if you start out early. Tour 

operators offer a range of full-day and half-day 

tours, plus specialised itineraries based on your 

interests. For eco tours and adventures, make 

sure to book with a registered tour operator or guide (see 

visittobago.gov.tt). For easy day trips and sightseeing — if 

you feel confident on the road — you could rent a vehicle, 

pick up a Discover T&T map, and go exploring on your own! 

Here are a few of our favourites. 

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Fort King George 

Scarborough’s crowning glory, this 18th century fort 

was the perfect location to keep a lookout for the 

many invaders who fought over this island. The restored 

colonial-era buildings (pictured) offer spectacular 

views of Rockly Bay, the town of Scarborough, 

Bacolet Bay and the windward coast. You can sit on 

one of the benches under the giant samaan trees or 

saddle one of the cannons that line the stone walls. 

The officers’ quarters now contain the Tobago 

Museum where you will find a collection of Amerindian 

artifacts, maps from the 1600s, military relics, 

paintings, and a small geology exhibit. Original 

buildings include the powder magazine, bell tank, 

lighthouse and cells. Opening hours: Monday–Friday, 

9am–4:30pm. Admission to the museum: adults TT$10, 

teens TT$5, children TT$2. No entrance fee to the fort. 

Tel: 639-3970 

If you like forts, here are two more: 

Fort Milford: built in 1777, a perfect spot for 

* watching the sun dip below the horizon on the 

Caribbean coast 

Fort Bennett: look out over Stonehaven Bay from 

a little pavilion. 

* 

Sightseeing 

& day trips 


115

FARAAZ ABDOOL 

Corbin Local Wildlife Park 

In Mason Hall, conservationist Roy Corbin has built a 

wildlife sanctuary that houses many of Tobago’s endangered 

animals — boa constrictors, agoutis (including a 

rare albino), opossums, green iguanas, collared peccary 

(which is nearly extinct in Tobago), and the spectacled 

caiman. Enclosures are big and as natural as possible. 

Corbin breeds and reintroduces as many of the animals 

as possible back into the rain forests. You may even 

have the honour of releasing an endemic possum or 

manicou into the wild! You are allowed to go close and 

touch the animals; you’ll also learn about the uses of 

the native trees on the grounds. Climb to the top of the 

trail and enjoy the spectacular view from the verandah 

of his house. 

Tobago Cocoa Estate 

Sold by Fortnum & Mason’s in the UK, Tobago Cocoa 

Estate’s chocolate is made exclusively from our highly 

acclaimed Trinitario beans. This plantation (near Roxborough) 

is a heritage park where you can learn about the 

history of cocoa on the island and see how it is grown, 

picked, and dried — and enjoy rum and chocolate-tasting 

session at the end. Scheduled tours December–April 

are on Fridays at 11am, and by appointment only May– 

November. info@tobagococoa.com, 390-2021 

116 


Sightseeing & day trips 

This page: a rescued, orphaned 

nine-banded armadillo at Corbin 

Local Wildlife Park 

Opposite: a Red-billed tropicbird 

swoops into her nest on the 

cliffs of Little Tobago

Little Tobago 

An absolute must for birders, Little Tobago is 

a remote little island where Sir David Attenborough 

filmed frigatebirds hijacking tropicbirds 

for their fish in mid-air. You can take a 

glass-bottomed boat from Speyside (at 

Blue Waters Inn), and on the way you 

can stop off to see the brain coral and 

the Japanese Gardens. In fact, Angel 

Reef is perhaps the island’s finest 

coral reef. 

The climb up the island is not 

very strenuous but there are lots of steps. 

As there are no rivers or streams, the guides 

ensure that water is caught or brought for 

the birds in feeders placed around the island. 

It’s best to go between April and September, 

as the water can get rough October–March. 

Dress sensibly with good walking shoes 

(sandals not advised), and carry water. You 

can go snorkelling afterwards! 

RAPSO IMAGING 


117

COURTESY TDC 

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The picturesque fishing village 

of Parlatuvier is a favourite of 

photographers and visitors 

Sightseeing & day trips 


119

Top left: a White-tailed sabrewing hummingbird, 

once thought extinct in Tobago, at Newton 

George’s Gallery, Speyside 

Top right: Blue-backed manakins at Gilpin Trace 

Bottom: a Rufous-vented chachalaca 

or cocrico (Tobago’s national bird), in Speyside 

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Above: Ruddy turnstones 

This picture: Blue-grey tanager 

or blue jean at Newton George’s 

Gallery 

PHOTOS BY RAPSO IMAGING 



121

Cuffie River Nature Retreat 

This rainforest retreat near Runnemede 

is nestled among untouched forests and 

mountains bordering the Main Ridge Forest 

Reserve. A popular base for birders 

(up to 80 species sighted) and nature 

lovers, the family-run eco-lodge is remote 

yet modern and a pioneer in sustainable 

tourism. You can go on nature 

hikes with a very knowledgeable guide 

who will explain everything about the island’s 

birds, agriculture, wildlife, and medicinal 

plants. 

The Cuffie River which meanders alongside the 

Cuffie River Nature Retreat 

JOANNE HUSAIN 

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Main Ridge Forest Reserve 

The Main Ridge is the backbone of Tobago, a spine that 

runs across two thirds of its surface to a height of 876m 

(1,890ft). This 14,000-acre reserve, protected since 1776 

and the oldest in the western hemisphere, is home to 210 

species of birds, including the rare white-tailed sabrewing 

hummingbird, which is endemic to Tobago. Venezuela 

is the only other place in the world where it is found. 

One third of the birds that nest here are endemic, as is 

the ocellated gecko, which is not found anywhere else in 

the world. The reserve’s 10,000 acres of evergreen rain 

forest have been designated by UNESCO as being of Outstanding 

Universal Value. 

You can drive through the reserve. If you want to 

walk through, the most famous of the trails starts at 

Gilpin Trace (5km). You may spot yellow sugar birds, 

blue-backed manakins, red and green-collared trogons, 

white-necked thrushes, motmots (they nest in clay), 

great black hawks, and a range of other wildlife (a 

dozen mammals, two dozen non-poisonous snake species, 

and 16 lizard species), and get a chance to splash 

in beautiful waterfalls. The Gilpin trail is fantastic as a 

family outing. Small children will enjoy learning about 

the rain forest. The hike is easy and you can rent rubber 

boots if it’s muddy and wet. Other popular treks are the 

Atlantic, Blue Copper, and Niplig trails. 

Crested oropendola nests 

Just about everywhere 

you go, you will see 

up in the branches of 

tall trees the hanging 

nests of the crested 

oropendola or cornbird 

(pictured below). These 

architectural wonders 

are painstakingly woven 

with vines and banana 

fibres. The nests can be 

3–6ft long. The birds live 

in colonies, so you may 

see more than a dozen of 

these nests in one tree. 

The female takes 9–11 

days to make her nest. 

The male will watch her 

work, and if he doesn’t 

like what he sees, he 

tears it apart so she has 

to start again... 

RAPSO IMAGING 



123

Grafton Caledonia Bird & Wildlife Sanctuary 

Devastated by a hurricane in the ‘70s, this was once a 

beautiful retreat. Still, in the afternoons from 4pm, you 

can see lots of cocricos (Tobago’s national bird), hummingbirds, 

honeycreepers and motmots close up. The 

approach is steep and unsurfaced but for birders, it will 

be worth the effort. 

One of the cottages at the 

Adventure Farm & Nature 

Reserve 

RAPSO IMAGING 

Adventure Farm & Nature Reserve 

Like manna from heaven, mangoes rain 

down on this 12-acre estate in Arnos Vale, 

where they are lovingly made into juice, 

ice-cream and chutneys. Savour sublime 

soursop juice made from soursop grown 

right on the estate. In this haven of sustainable 

tourism, nothing is wasted and 

52 species of birds can be seen — motmots, 

hummingbirds (the rare and fragile 


albino hummingbird has been seen here), 

bananaquits, and red-crowned woodpeckers. 

They flutter and buzz around 

the hanging feeders, or eat bananas in 

a luxury birdhouse at very close range. 

Herbs from the garden are used to prepare 

meals. Everything is powered by 

solar energy. Open from 7am Monday– 

Saturday, 639-2839 

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Blue Food Festival 

Dasheen and other root crops take centre stage each October in Bloody Bay, L’Anse 

Fourmi, and Parlatuvier as these villages pay homage to the versatility and utility of 

“blue food”. Some varieties of dasheen can turn blue or indigo when cooked, hence the 

term — which now is used to describe all root crops, including sweet potato, cassava, 

and yam. For the festival, all of the dasheen plant is used to prepare bread, cookies 

and sweets, ice-cream, and even lasagne! A culinary competition and cultural shows 

are also highlights. 

Festivals & events 

Carnival 

The Carnival pre-season kicks off 

early before Christmas, with a 

launch featuring a street parade 

in Scarborough of traditional mas 

characters (including speech bands 

— a cast of costumed characters 

who speechify in rhyme). The first 

party is the Soca Spree, typically 

with Machel Montano as the headline 

act, followed by events like 

Soca Under the Samaan Tree; the 

Tobago House of Assembly’s Interdepartment 

Queen and Calypso 

Show; and the Roxborough Afro- 

Queen & Windward Calypso Show. If 

nothing else, make sure to visit the 


COURTESY THE DIVISION OF TOURISM & TRANSPORT 

Dancers of the cultural group 

ZANTE perform the limbo and 

bamboo dances 

panyards of Tobago’s top 

steelbands, like Dixieland, 

Redemption Sound Setters, 

and Katzenjammers. 

Come J’ouvert (very early 

Carnival Monday morning) 

in Scarborough, mud 

mas is the focal point. 

Later in the day and on 

Tuesday, “ole mas” and 

costumed bands take 

over the streets of Scarborough 

and Roxborough. 

125

Meet a Calypso Rose 

Born in Bethel, Linda MacArthur “Calypso 

Rose” Lewis was the first woman to win 

the national Road March title in 1977 

(“Tempo”) and 1978 (“Soca Jam”), forcing 

the Calypso King competition to be 

renamed Calypso Monarch when she 

danced away with the 1978 crown. In 2016, 

she was named Artist of the Year at the 

prestigious World Music Expo (WOMEX) in 

Spain, and in 2017 won the Victoire de la 

Musique (or “French Grammy”) for Album 

of the Year in France. A documentary 

film has been made 

about her: Calypso Rose: 

Lioness of the Jungle. 

calypso-rose.com 

COURTESY STONETREE RECORDS/MATURITY 

126 


Festivals & events

Carnival Regatta 

The “festival of wind” is held at Pigeon 

Point near to Carnival (typically February), 

featuring four sailing categories: 

Optimists and Bum Boat sailing, dynamic 

Windsurf, and Kite-Surfing classes. Peak 

sailing time is the dry season (December– 

May), with stronger and more consistent 

winds. 

Dragon Boat Festival 

Each June at Pigeon Point, senior and 

junior teams from T&T compete over a 

weekend for dragon boating supremacy. 

Count on good food and music too. 

Goat & Crab Racing Festival 

Each Easter, Buccoo hosts the Family Day 

and Goat & Crab Races (pictured below). 

The animals hurtle down a special 110m 

(360ft) track to the finish line, hustled 

on by barefoot “jockeys” who sprint behind 

their charges, holding the colourfully 

attired goats on long ropes, and the 

crabs on short strings. Beforehand, the 

goats are given special diets and training 

regimens (including swimming) to 

build stamina. The showdown happens 

each Easter Monday and Tuesday at Mt 

Pleasant, as well as Buccoo (the main location). 

There’s a repeat at the Heritage 

Festival (July). 

PIOTR ANDREWS 


127


Great Fete Weekend 

This annual party fest takes place in 

late July/early August. Five straight 

nights of partying until dawn at Pigeon 

Point and other locations, with DJs, 

sound systems and live entertainment. 

Be mindful of turtles and turtle nests 

as you party, as southwest beaches are 

turtle nesting ones! 

This page: The Speechettes of Scarborugh RC School in a traditional 

speech band performance, where costumed characters speechify in 

rhyme. It’s popular at Carnival and during Heritage Festival 

Opposite: 3canal performs at the Tobago Jazz Experience 

Great Race 

First held in 1969, each August this speedboat 

race (about 185km/115 miles) starts 

at the Port of Spain waterfront early in 

the morning and ends in Scarborough 

two to three hours later. Naturally, a rollicking 

beach party ensues. 

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Heritage Festival 

This festival (mid-July until 1 August) is 

a glimpse into the past — to experience 

the old cultural traditions and rituals 

that make this island what it is. Events 

take place across the island in various 

villages such as Plymouth and Moriah — 

storytelling, ancestral walks, long-time 

games, harvest traditions, historical reenactments 

(like the ol’ time wedding, 

“washing the dead bed”, and “dancing 

the cocoa”). Help the fishermen “pull 

seine” on the beach, and you may be rewarded 

with some fresh catch. There’s 

also pirogue racing, beach football and 

seafood breakfast on offer. 

Heritage tours 

The Scarborough Heritage Trail and 

a church tour were introduced last 

year to promote conservation. The 

Scarborough trail starts at the Milford 

Road Esplanade and ends at Fort King 

George, while the church tour takes in 

Mt Pleasant Anglican church, Montgomery 

Moravian Church, Riseland, 

the Bethel Baptist Church, and Bethesda 

Moravian Church. 


Tobago Jazz Experience 

Each April, jazz takes over with events (some free) in Speyside, Signal Hill, Scarborough, 

Castara, and Pigeon Point. The event showcases some of the best in local and 

regional music alongside international stars. John Legend, Jill Scott, Jennifer Hudson, 

Kool & the Gang, Angie Stone, Janelle Monae, Chaka Khan, Elton John, Stevie Wonder, 

Mary J Blige, Sting, Diana Ross, Erykah Badu, India.Arie, George Benson, Lauryn Hill, 

Heather Headley, Jill Scott, and Maxwell have all performed in the past. 


129

* 

* 

130 

Cycling: International professional 

competitors are drawn to the International 

Cycling Classic (September/ 

October). 

Golf: There are two 18-hole, championship-standard 

golf courses which 

host international tournaments. Mt 

Irvine Bay Resort has a 127-acre, 

6,793-yard course set in an old sugar 

and coconut plantation overlooking 

the Caribbean Sea. Tobago Plantations 

Golf Club (660-8500), also 

established on a former sugar cane 

estate, is a par-72, 7,005-yard course 

with stunning Atlantic Ocean views. 

* 


Sports 

Mountain biking: There are easy 

coastal tracks; tours taking in historical 

sites, waterfalls, and beaches 

(some not accessible by car); and 

intense treks into the mountainous 

Main Ridge … Mountain Bike Magazine 

called the island a “mountain 

biker’s island paradise”. Make sure 

to ride with a guide. Mountain Biking 

 

332-5872


A surfer at Mt Irvine 

* 

* 

Surfing: Peak time is November–April, 

but swells can kick up during the 

hurricane season too. Lessons and 

board rentals are available at Mt 

Irvine, which is where the T&T Surfing 

Association (surftt.org) holds the 

Tobago Pro Open event. Bacolet is 

another popular spot. 

Triathlon: Competitions and training 

events, such as the Rainbow Cup 

international triathlon (mid-year), 

are held throughout the year. T&T 

 

The Rainbow Triathlon Club: 632-5560 


Local heroes 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

Lalonde Gordon: 2017 World Championship 

gold medallist (4x400m 

relay); 2012 Olympic bronze (men’s 

400m) and silver (men’s 4x400m 

relay) medallist 

Josanne Lucas: the island’s first 

female World Championship medallist 

(400m hurdles, 2009) 

Claude Noel: Roxborough native 

and the nation’s first boxing World 

Champion, lifting the WBA’s World 

Lightweight title in 1981. The island’s 

highway is named after him 

Renny Quow: the island’s first 

medallist (bronze) in the men’s 

400m at the World Championships 

(2009) 

Akeem Stewart: double 2017 World 

Para Athletics gold medallist (shot 

put and javelin), 2016 Paralympic 

gold (javelin) and silver (discus) 

medallist; and world record holder 

for javelin F44 and shot put F43 

Dwight Yorke: football star and 

leading striker for UK teams like 

Manchester United and Aston Villa; 

captained the national team to an 

impressive debut at the 2006 World 

Cup in Germany, where T&T made 

history as the smallest country 

ever to qualify. 

131

Map Key (applies to all maps) 

Police Station 

Gas Station 

Waterfall 

Hospital 

Bird Watching 

Sailing & boat tours 

Turtle Nesting 

Golf Course 

Fort 

Shopping Centre 

Scuba Diving 

Airport 

Lighthouse 

Place of interest 

Surfing 

Beach with 

Restrooms 

Food Available 

Swamp 

Caves 

Highway 

Museum 

Planned 

Highway 

Lifeguard on Duty 

Major roadway 

Englishman's Bay 

Parla 

Ba 

nglis 

Castara Bay 

Parr 

King Peter's Bay 

Castara 

ra 

Store Bay 

Ft Milford 

Pigeon Pt 

Crown Point 

N 

BUCCOO REEF & 

NYLON POOL 

Bon Accord 

Lagoon 

Mt Irvine Bay 

Buccoo 

Bay 

Milford Rd 

Stonehaven Bay 

ANR Robinson 

Intl Airport 

Canoe Bay 

Turtle Beach 

Great Courland Bay 

Shirva n Rd 

Ft Bennett 

Arnos Vale Bay 

Black Rock 

Patience Hill 

Mt Irvine 

Buccoo Signal Hill 

Gulf City 

LOWLANDS 

Plymouth 

Bethel 

Culloden Bay 

Arnos 

Vale 

Grafton Sanctuary 

Claude Noel Highway 

Plymouth Rd 

Lambeau 

Little Rockly 

Bay 

Culloden 

Les Coteaux 

Adventure 

Farm & Nature 

Reserve 

Rockly 

Bay 

Northside Rd 

Scarborough 

Mall 

Moriah 

Mt Dillon 

Runnemede 

Mason Hall 

Craig Hall 

Mt St George 

Ft King George 

Bacolet Bay 

Bacolet Point 

Cuffie River Natu 

Retreat 

Barbados Bay 

Hil 

bad 

SCARBOROUG 

132 

discovertnt.com

St Giles Islands 

Sisters 

Rocks 

Man-o'- 

War Bay 

Pirate's 

Bay 

Flagstaff Hill 

hman's Bay 

Parlatuvier 

Bay 

Parrot Hill 

Bloody Bay 

Parlatuvier 

MAIN RIDGE FOREST RESERVE 

L'Anse Fourmi 

fie River Nature 

Argyle 

Roxborough 

Retreat 

Falls 

Hillsborough Dam Rainbow 

Bellevue 

Waterfall Belle Garden 

Prince's Bay 

Richmond 

Richmond 

Great House 

Carapuse Bay 

Glamorgan 

Richmond 

Pembroke 

Island 

W i n d wa r d R d 

Delaford 

King's Bay 

Tobago 

Cocoa 

Estate 

Charlotteville 

King's Bay 

Delaford 

Bay 

Speyside 

Blue 

Waters 

Tyrrel's 

Bay 

Goat 

Island 

Little Tobago 

os Bay 

OROUGH 

Pinfold Bay 

Granby Point 

Goldsborough 

Goodwood 

Tobago Map 


133

Authentic festivals 

and events, A unique history, 

Tropical rain forest, Exhilarating 

watersports, uncrowded beaches, 

revitalized chocolate industry 

and amazing eco-holidays. 

LIVE THE CULTURE, 

style 

for more info visit www.tobagostyle.travel

Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2018 (#29)

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