Garbage Run riders guide

A RIDING GUIDE

WELCOME
Hello and welcome to the Garbage
Run and other assorted adventures.
This is a simple information booklet to
help you prepare for the trip and get
the most out of the rides. It is by no
means definitive and as always if you
have any questions just get in touch.
Most of all a big welcome to the
adventure and see you on the road in
the not too distant future.
THE FIRST RULE OF GARBAGE RUN
- We’re all in it together.
SECOND RULE OF GARBAGE RUN
- No one gets left behind.
THIRD RULE OF GARBAGE RUN
- Ride Safe. Have fun.
Nathan Millward

BIKE CHOICE AND SERVICING
I know it’s called the Garbage Run but your bike doesn’t have to be garbage.
In fact, the less garbage the better! Due to the nature of the runs then any bike
is sufficient for the trip – new or old, big engine or small – all it needs to be is
road legal, with MOT, insurance and tax, as well as being serviced and ready
to the best of your ability. So far we’ve had everything from C90s to Triumph
Explorer 1200s on the trip, all riding together as the nature of the trip allows
people to find their own pace. The benefit of a 125cc bike is that it’s perfectly
swift enough for the run itself, you just have the slight chore of getting down to
the start and back from the end at a slower pace. The benefit of a big bike is that
it’s a bit overkill on the trip itself but perfect for getting back down. So there is
no right bike, there is no wrong bike. There’s just the bike that you enjoy riding.
In terms of preparation, things to consider before coming on the trip revolve
mainly around wear and tear items such as chain and sprockets and tyres, as
well as basic servicing items such as oil and filter. By the end of the full trip
from Land’s End to John o’Groats you will have ridden just short of 2500 miles.
That’s 1450 miles on the run itself, plus the distance to get down to Land’s End
and back from John o’Groats at the end. So service items as listed above need to
have enough life in them to cover those of distances. Replace them beforehand
if they won’t. If you’ve bought a bike especially for the trip, or it’s a new bike
to you, then try and do a few miles beforehand, just to iron out any teething
problems. Regardless of bike, breakdown cover is handy to have, with policies
offered by the likes of the RAC and AA, but before taking any out, check that it
isn’t already included as part of your insurance policy.
Chain tension - Is it too tight or too loose? Does it need some adjustment? Part
of your basic tool kit should ideally include the tools needed to nip up your
chain if need be.
Luggage for loose straps and securement - One of the hazards of travelling with
luggage is loose straps and bungees which at worse could either catch in the
wheel or on the exhaust, burning your luggage (I know that one from personal
experience!). Before setting off make sure everything’s tied down and secure.
Oil and fluid levels - Oil level is most crucial, especially on the smaller cc bikes
that can use a good drop or two when held at a steady cruising pace for long
periods of time. Check your levels daily and ideally bring a litre of fresh oil for
top up if your bike does typically get through some.
A general walk around - You’re looking for anything obvious; bolts that might
need tightening, bulbs not working. Are you brakes OK? Does the steering feel
loose? Are your panniers secure? Okay, ready to go.
This will only take 5 minutes but it’s a good way of spotting problems early
and making sure the bike’s fit for the day’s ride ahead!
BIKE CHECKS
Throughout the run a daily bike check is to be encouraged, something that
should happen on any bike trip. Each morning before setting off you should be
looking to check:
Tyres and pressures - What’s the tread looking like, are there any nails or
thorns in the tyre? How’s the pressure, does it need some air?

PACKING A BIKE
The key thing is not to over-pack and not to bring more than you need. As with
any bike trip, the less weight on the bike the better. So take the essentials, but
leave the kitchen sink at home. The second key thing when packing is to pack
the heaviest items at the lowest point you can. So tools and fluids at the bottom
of the pannier; clothes and other light items at the top. This keeps the centre of
gravity as low as possible which helps the bike remain stable and manageable,
particularly at low speed when most topples happen.
When packing a bike, consider what you might need to hand – such as phone,
wallet, camera – and make sure they’re handy and within easy reach. A tank
bag I find is useful for these sorts of things and if you get one big enough then
you can also stuff toiletries and clothes in there as well. Another good tip is to
divide your things up into ‘rooms’, so bedroom, kitchen, lounge. That means
try and get all your camping gear together, and your cooking equipment and
then your clothes. Packing on a bike is about packing smartly rather than
increasing the amount of actual space you have available. Think where items
can be reduced in size or slipped inside something else. Most of all, don’t be
afraid to not bring something you think you might need, because chances are
you won’t need it and if you do need it we can always pick one up on route. It’s
better to do that than fill half your panniers with things you’re unlikely to need
but are afraid to leave behind. Let go. This is just a bike trip in the UK.
LUGGAGE
How you decide to carry your gear is a personal choice and also dependant on
the bike you’re bringing. If you have an adventure style bike with mounted
aluminium panniers then you’re laughing (but again, you’re going away for a
week in the UK, not a year around the world. You shouldn’t need panniers, top
box, tank bank and a dry bag. Just because you have the space doesn’t mean
that you have to use it!).
If you’re on a C90 or sportsbike then you might have bigger issues, but nothing
is impossible. Cheap throw-over saddle bags from the likes of Oxford are a
good option, just make sure they don’t rest on the exhaust as this can easily set
them ablaze.
For those who are struggling with their machines and worrying how to
pack everything then the easiest and cheapest way is to get a good dry bag,
somewhere in the region of 60-litres. Aldi often do them for a tenner, and are
perfectly good enough for this job. There’s a Scottish company called Lomo that
also do sturdy and affordable dry bags. Rok Straps are a good way of strapping
things to your bike and aren’t expensive. Available online. Click here
In your dry bag I would look to put your tent, sleeping bag and other camping
equipment. That way it keeps it all nicely together and if you get a large enough
dry bag then you should be able to get most of your clothes in there as well.
Combine that with a sizeable tank bag and you’re about there for carrying
space for a week away on the bike. You’ll have to limit what you pack, and keep
the same pants on for a few days, but you’ll survive quite easily. I would advise
against rucksacks as these can cause rider fatigue over time.
PACKING LIST
This is the proposed packing list of June rider Bob Coleman, which is a great
starter for ten. I’ve left my comments in black:
Pants - up to you how many pairs. You can manage with 3 or 4 pairs and wash
out on an evening.
Socks - ditto.
Tee shirts - four t-shirts should about cover it, but up to you.
Fleece - good idea to have in case you need layer up.
Towel - a weight saving tip is to use yesterday’s t-shirt, but each to their own
Trunks - It’s unlikely we’ll be swimming but it could rain a lot.
Riding jeans - definitely, with knee pads preferable.
Riding boots - Some protective boots are advised, waterproof even better.
Riding jacket - elbow and shoulder protection advised, waterproof ideal.
Waterproofs - essential, don’t leave home without them.
2 pairs of gloves - good idea for when one pair get wet.
Trainers - or lighter sandals/flip flops for on the camp site. If you have
waterproof boots you could manage without.
Armoured vest - either a separate vest or armour in the jacket.
Medication - bring what you need for the duration.

Midge repellent - a good idea for up in Scotland. Can be bought locally.
Midge head net - as above.
Razor ++ - or grow an adventure beard.
Specs - yep, for certain, and I would bring specs even if you also use contacts.
Phone - yep, and put my number in your phone 07562729672.
Camera - bring whatever you need.
Satnav - the route will be messaged out as a GPX file prior to run so is handy but
not essential, especially if you have a smart phone.
Road atlas - a miniature one will be provided.
Toilet roll - not essential. Toilets en route.
Cereal bars - good to have snacks to nibble on. Easy to pick up at petrol stations.
Bin liners - a few would be handy, or carrier bags picked up on route.
Pen and note book - yes if you want to keep notes.
Headlight bulb - not a bad idea, although we don’t ride at night and we do pass
various Halfords/bike shops etc
Tail light bulb - as above
Exhaust gasket - as long as it’s okay when you leave it should be ok
Puncture repair kit - if you have tubeless tyres bring a plug kit. If tubed tyres and
you don’t know how to repair, get breakdown cover
Tools - basic tools handy, but don’t bring more than you know how to use
5 litre petrol can - unnecessary but bring if it gives you peace of mind
Tent - a minimum two man tent is advised
Sleeping bag - a three season bag should do it
Self inflating mattress - essential for a good night’s sleep
Torch - handy in an evening, unless your phone has a torch
Cooker and fuel - useful but not essential, depending on budget
Matches - see above
Water bottle - a litre bottle is handy
Swiss army knife - certainly handy if you have one
Mug/bowl/plate/KFS - only necessary if planning on cooking
Head torch - one torch should do it
RAC card - it’s not a bad idea to have breakdown cover
Cash/cards - plenty of cash machines on route
CAMPING GEAR
Part of the Garbage Run is the camping element. Camping is something
not everyone does, certainly not the act of carrying your camping gear
on a motorbike trip, but it does two things: It reduces the cost of the
trip, and it increases the sense and feeling of being on an ‘adventure’.
Sometimes it’s wet, sometimes you’d rather be in a hotel, but the feeling
of being on a bike and having everything you need on the bike to survive
is one of the great joys of motorcycle travel (at least to my mind). Here’s
what you need:
TENT - The most essential item for this trip. I would advise going no
smaller than a two man, and one weighing no much more than 6 kilos.
A porch area is handy, especially if it’s raining as you can dump all your
wet gear in it; saves bringing it into the actual tent. As with anything,
prices vary. The more you pay the lighter and more compact the tent and
the overall quality increases. But for around £60, even less, you should
be able to get something that will last a good few trips. You’re looking for
something with two layers; the inner and the outer. This just helps keep
the rain out.
A dome tent – which generally have a square footprint and forming a
dome in the middle – are the easiest to put up and often the cheapest
option. Tunnel tents offer more room but can be more time consuming
to put up. If you really want to go all out then you can even get tents big
enough to run your bike into – such as the Lone Rider and the Redverz
– but they’ll run into £400-£500 and the pack size is fairly big. But they
do give you a lot of room. It’s basically the compromise between pack
size, the weight of the tent, the size of the tent and the cost of the tent.
Don’t agonise too much; it’s just a tent, as long as it keeps you dry then
that’s all that matters. Personally, I just wouldn’t buy one weighing more
than six kilos, as they’re just a bit cumbersome to mount on a bike.
SLEEPING BAG – A three season sleeping bag should do it quite nicely.
It might get a bit chilly up in the Scottish Highlands but we can all
snuggle in together if it gets too chilly.

SLEEPING MATT – You can pay a lot for these (up to £100) and
essentially what you’re paying for is the pack size and weight. The more
you pay the lighter it is. TwistMoto - a bike travel supplier - currently
offer a decent one for less than £30.
COOKING GEAR – A basic gas burner is the easiest and cheapest
solution. Less than £20 and a gas bong for a fiver. Job done. A couple of
pans, or just one, a fork and spoon out of the kitchen draw and some
Pasta n’Sauce and you’re away. Cooking gear is down to the individual.
Everywhere we stay there are facilities for buying a hot meal and
generally a hot breakfast. If you don’t take a stove then you won’t starve,
and it can save you a lot of space and weight if you don’t pack any, but
obviously it’s going to cost you more to eat in the nearby pubs or other
facilities. The choice on that one is yours.
ANCILLARIES: Torch, pillow (scrunched up jumper?), matches, toilet
paper (though not wholly necessary), medication, toiletries, towel (or
yesterday’s t-shit).
The tent to the right is a dome tent with a
porch. These have the same footprint as a
regular dome tent, but with an extra sheet
of fabric, sometimes supported by a third
pole, just to give you somewhere to keep
your gear dry during the night. They tend
to be a touch more expensive but not a lot.
To the left is a a Vango Beat 300. It’s a 3
man tent, they do do it in a 2 man format
but if you have the space, go for a 3 man. It
weighs a relatively lightweigh 3.5 kilos and
the beauty of a dome tent like this is how
easy they are to put up. This one is £22 in
the sale. Bargain.
A tunnel tent like this Vango Omega
350 (£200) tends to cost more than
a dome tent, but is more spacious
with a decent sized porch area for
cooking and gear storage. For an
extended time away they are more
‘enjoyable’ than a smaller dome tent.
Their downsides are that they’re a
touch heavier and take a bit more
time to put up and take down.
The final option is something like the Redverz Atacama tent or the equivalently
sized Lone Rider. These are the King Don of tents, with space for the bike to go
inside but cost in the region of £400-£500. They’re surprisingly stable in high
winds and tall enough to stand up in. A few brought them on the last run. I think
everyone was secretely jealous, but they are a bit overkill.
Then you just need a sleeping matt and
sleeping bag. Personally, I ‘d go for an
inflatable air mattress, one of the compact
ones that roll down small. They’re
more comfortable and warmer than the
traditional foam style, with a Multimatt
Adventure about £25 and well worth it.
As for a sleeping bag I’d just go for a
reasonably priced 3 season sleeping bag
from the likes of Vango, or see what you’re
local Blacks has on sale. You’re just looking
for something at the right price, which
isn’t hugely bulky, and which will be warm
enough for Spring time weather.

RIDING GEAR
HELMET – Obviously you want a road legal helmet, with eye
protection, be it in the way of goggles or visor. A neck tube such as a
Buff is also handy for keeping the chill off your chin.
JACKET and TROUSERS – It’s obviously advised that you come with
some protective gear but I won’t be tapping on your elbows and knees to
check for it. It’s up to you what gear you bring. The main thing is to be
comfortable in what you’re wearing as you’re going to be spending a lot
of time in it.
BOOTS – Given the rain we’re likely to have at some points throughout
the run it’s perhaps advisable you wear waterproof boots. Nothing worse
than soggy boots to put on in a morning. If you don’t have waterproof
boots and want to save a penny or two then waterproof socks are a good
option and will at least keep your feet warm and dry, though your boot
is going to be a bit squelchy in the morning. Let me know if you’re
looking for boots and I’ll try and point you in the right direction.
WATERPROOFS – These are a must and invaluable for when the
weather turns. A one piece suit is probably the most effective if not
always the most practical. You don’t have to spend a fortune. An
army surplus store is often the best place to pick up an effective and
affordable set of two-piece waterproofs, though not necessarily the most
fashionable. Try and look for a jacket that has a bit of length in the waist
in order to give good coverage over the top of your trousers. A nice high
neck collar is also welcome to keep the cold and wet out. But let’s hope
for sunshine.
Hi-VIS clothing – There’s no mandatory requirement here. If you want
to wear it do so, if you don’t then you don’t have to. It’s a personal choice.
GLOVES – I would advise you bring two sets of gloves. There’s nothing
worse than a long bout of rain and having to put wet gloves on after it. A
second pair allows time for the others to dry. It could be nippy up in the
north so maybe a pair of thick winter gloves wouldn’t go amiss.
CASUAL CLOTHING
It’s fair to say that we’re going to be spending most of the days on the
bike in our riding gear. You can in theory get away without bringing any
casual clothes if you’ve got good waterproofs. A pair of trousers under
your riding gear can be stripped down to at night, your boots – if
waterproof – can be worn and a jumper under your jacket will do for the
pub. That’s the bear minimum, though in practicality it’s probably worth
bringing a pair of joggers or casual jeans, some lightweight footwear and
a spare jumper. On most evenings, if we’re camping, then we’ll be on the
campsite, so you’re not really going to need to get dressed up, although
we do on occasion frequent the local pub but shabby chique is currently
en vogue.
Pants and socks, well that’s down to your own tolerance of self odour,
but being on the road all day for 8 days tends to make you care less than
usual, so stretching out the undergarment change for a day or two is
all part of it. If you are going for a daily change, a good tip is to bundle
a set of socks, pants and top together for each day; either rolling them
together into daily ‘parcels’. It just helps you to keep organised.
EAR PLUGS – Always a good thing to wear even if a bit weird at the
beginning. Consecutive days of riding can lead to temporary ringing
and tinnitus, and especially for the long ride back down it’s best to have
something in your ears to cut out wind blast. Even the cheap foam ones
are better than nothing, with cheap options available from hardware
stores and DIY outlets, or eBay.

A TYPICAL DAY ON THE RUN
We’ll generally stir at around 7am, aiming to be ready and packed for
around 8pm. We’ll do a quick brief - covering the route ahead and dealing
with any concerns/queries - then a quick check of the bikes and plan on
being on the road by 8.30am at the latest. By being on the road early it
means that we’ll get good ground covered before lunch and therefore arrive
at camp on an evening ideally no later than 5.30-6pm.
We’ll probably be in the saddle around 5 hours a day, with a fair bit of stopstarting,
for fuel and lunch and what not, with an average day of around 190
miles. That doesn’t sound too many but the nature of the route we take –
mainly B roads – then pace is generally steady as an average. But that’s okay.
We’re in no rush.
Again, people have a choice in how they ride the route, so if you want
another hour in bed, or be on the road earlier, then you can do. You will all
know the route and the direction the group is heading, so don’t be afraid
to do your own thing. Each day will have a designated meeting point for
lunch, allowing us to re-group if people have got broken up or gone at their
own pace.
We’ll ride until around 12noon, at which point we’ll reach our lunch stop.
We’ll take about an hour and be back on the road sometime around 1pm.
But a lot depends on where we are and how progress is going, and how
people are feeling. If people want a longer lunch then that’s what we’ll
do. There is no rigid schedule to any of this. We travel at a pace that is
comfortable
The aim is to reach the evening destination by around 5.30-6, which, if
we’re camping allows plenty of time for us to get the tents up and sort out
food. Food facilities are either nearby or on-site for those who don’t want to
cook their own food. Food is not included in the price, but there might be
the odd surprise.
On an evening we’ll deal with any issues with bikes or people, and if
anyone’s got any problems or worries then we’ll go through them.
In terms of alcohol on an evening, it would probably be advised not to get
too carried away. The days can be long, with early starts and we want people
and alert and safe enough to ride. So have fun, but know your limits and try
and get a good night’s sleep where possible.
WHAT IF YOU BREAK DOWN?
If you have a break down the chances are you’ll be with other riders who
are expected to stop and see what can be done to rectify the problem.
Assess the problem, see if you can fix it by the roadside, or is it a job for a
professional or the breakdown truck? If I’m not there contact me on my
mobile phone number to let me know, and depending on locality we’ll
head back to help. The key thing is that no one is going to get left behind.
We’ll solve problems and we’ll get people back riding. Worst case – if
the problem’s terminal – you’ll have to get your bike recovered, but we’ll
cross that bridge if and when we get to. The nature of every breakdown is
different, but we’ll deal with it.
WHAT IF I GET LOST OR LOSE THE GROUP?
Don’t panic is the main thing. Pull over, take your helmet off and refer to
the map and the next stop marked on route. That could be a lunch stop or
the final destination for that day. Drop me a message to let me know you’re
alright and once composed make your way to where we’re heading. Again,
no one will be left behind and we’ll deal with people getting lost on a case
by case basis, but essentially it’s nothing to worry about and all part of the
adventure. Some of the best times people have had on the previous runs is
when a few of them, or one rider on their own, has lost the group and made
their own way to where we’re going. They always arrive talking about the
new things they’ve seen and it’s made them feel more confident. So again,
don’t panic. It’s the UK, everyone speaks English, apart from in the north.
WHAT IF YOU HAVE AN ACCIDENT?
Deal with it as you would any incident on the road. Assess the damage. Do
you need an ambulance? Call 999. I’ll carry first aid equipment to patch
up anything minor and if anyone’s more seriously injured then we’ll deal
with that as we go. If I’m not there, contact me immediately if there is an
incident. But if everyone rides within their limits then there’s no reason for
this to be an issue.

WHAT’S EXPECTED OF YOU
I’m going to do everything I can to get up to the top in safety and with good
fun along the way. I want you to have a good trip. I want you to learn a lot
and feel more confident as a rider, and as a traveller by the end. It is a tough
trip. We cover some ground over the 8 days, the conditions can be poor and
it takes more effort moving as a group than riding solo. What I ask of you
is that you come with expectation of that challenge and an acceptance that
sometimes you could be cold and wet and still have some miles to cover.
You also have to accept that things might go wrong, that we might have
breakdowns or other mishaps and that motorcycling is an inherently
dangerous past time and that sometimes things do go wrong and people do
have accidents. Once again, the main thing is getting everyone to the top in
one piece, and that’s helped by everyone looking out for each other. No one
rides past a stricken rider. No one puts anyone else in danger through their
riding or their actions. I also expect people to bring their brain with them,
to think for themselves and make their own decisions. If you want to stop
for a picture of the scenery then stop, if you want eat somewhere different
to the group because you’re sick of fast food then do so. Don’t follow
blindly, think, and make it the adventure that you wish to have.
HOW IT TENDS TO WORK
We start as about 25, and throughout the week the main group shrinks and
reforms as people go off at their own pace, or mini groups form as people
make friendship groups and decide to ride together. It’s all part of the
experience and encouraged, not deterred, with the flow of the group very
organic and responsive to the people on that particular run. If you want to
go ahead of the group, go ahead, if you want to go slower, then go slower.
The main thing always is that you ride at a pace comfortable to you and
by having the route to hand the idea is that you can and will be able to self
navigate if wanting or needing to. Or just stick with me.
GROUP RIDING TIPS
When riding as a group, the main thing is to give yourself plenty of space
and never ride closer to the man in front that you feel comfortable. Some of
you will be aware of the staggered group positioning, which is particularly
effective when we enter congested areas such as towns and villages,
reducing the length of Tarmac we take up. See the diagram below and look
for the lead of the rider in front so position yourself properly; one to the
outer of the lane, the following rider to the inner of the lane, then outer,
then inner. It just makes for easier, swifter progress.
WHERE’S DOROTHY?
Rather than a formal drop-man system which can work for some groups
but is quite structured and arguably too regimented for this type of trip,
I rely on a more informal approach, which I’m going to call the ‘Where’s
Dorothy?’ approach. It basically means that you’re responsible for the
person behind you. They are Dorothy. This means that if the group makes
a turn then it is your responsibility to make sure the rider behind has seen
the group make that turn, and if they aren’t behind you then you wait on
the corner for them. This then relies on the person in front of you to keep
an eye on their ‘Dorothy’ and make sure they don’t make a turn without
you. It relies on everyone looking out for one another and using their
mirrors.
Obviously, common sense applies, so if you’re pulling over to wait for
someone make sure you pull off the road, safe from traffic, and be careful
when pulling away. Common rules of safe riding apply. And if you lose the
rider behind you on more than 3 occassions you will be forced to wear the
dunce’s cap.
COURTESY
We’re a big group, we take up a lot of space on the road. We’re also very visible
as ‘motorcyclists’, so I urge everyone to show courtesy and good manners to
other traffic. If a car waves us though, I encourage everyone to give them a
wave of gratitude, not just the rider at the front. It’s just good manners.

THINGS TO THINK ABOUT
WEATHER
If we don’t get rain it’ll be a miracle. In rain the best thing to do is slow your
pace and increase the gap to the rider in front. Take your time, don’t rush. And
if need be pull in and let the rain pass. Once again, good waterproof clothing is
essential!
NAVIGATION
For navigation you’ll all be given a A5 road atlas which we’ll go through the route
with each morning. Details of the final destinations for each day will be provided
in advance, as will details of where we’ll aim on stopping for lunch. The latter can
all vary depending on pace, weather and preference, so last minute changes are
always possible. If you want to bring a GPS then they can be handy to have, just
remember that you’ll need a 12v charger on your bike to power it; also handy for
charging your phone.
LEADING
These are semi-guided trips. You are not expected to sit behind me from
Land’s End to John o’Groats. You will all have the route and the destinations. In
principle everyone should be self sufficient and if need be be able to navigate
their way to where we’re going. Equally, I might not always ride at the front. If
someone wants to take the lead or they have the route to follow and are feeling
confident then other members of the group will be asked if they want to take
the lead. Certainly no one will be forced to.
FOOD & COOKING
Between Land’s End and John o’Groats there are a thousand places to pick up
food. One rider on the last run took with him 30 packets of instant noodles. He
took all of them back home with him! A lot boils down to budget. If you want
to do it on the cheap then take a stove and a pan and maybe some dried food
and something for breakfast. Easy and cheap. Alternatively, in the main we
camp at places that either have facilities to buy food, or have pubs or takeaways
nearby. You can manage on this trip without cooking equipment if you want
to. For lunch we tend to stop at either local cafés, or on a few occasions
McDonald’s, sometimes if only for a cup of tea, simply because it’s quick and
easy for a big group to get served.
CAMPING
In the main we camp, with one night at a hostel or bunkhouse. The campsites
all have the full facilities and usually a place to shelter and re-group. All
accommodation costs are included. Some campsites have camping pods or
caravans which some people in the past have dived in, especially when it’s raining.
Where practical, if someone wants to upgrade then you’re free to do so. Where
money hasn’t already been paid for the campspot - or where it can be re-directed -
I’ll contribute the cost of the camp-spot to the upgrade... if that makes sense.
BUDGET
Budgets vary with bike choice and taste. Calculate the cost of 2400 miles based
on your bikes MPG. Add that to say £30 per day for food and drink. Less or
more depending on your taste and budget. On an economical bike a £200
budget could do it.
PACE
Ride to your own pace. Don’t push beyond your comfort zone. Let the rider
in front go. If you’re riding behind a slower rider and the road opens up and
you want to come past then conduct a safe and considerate overtake. It’s more
dangerous to have a number of bikes bunching up behind a slower bike than
it is for that those faster riders to overtake. The slower rider needn’t worry, for
we’ll be waiting for them at the end.
FUEL
As long as your bike has a range of 100 miles you’ll be fine. We tend to do
plenty of stops and if you do have a small tank then take the opportunity to top
up the tank whenever you can. You should not need to bring along a jerry can.
ROUTE
The route is all legal highway and paved. We avoid towns and main roads
wherever possible. There is no motorway work so the route is entirely L plate
friendly. There are some more challenging bits, just where it’s narrow lanes and
tighter corners. Take it at your own pace, and remember, there is always another
way of getting to where we’re going. No one will be forced to ride where they
don’t wish to ride so speak up (or stop) if you don’t like the look of something.
Also, please show caution when pulling into our accommodation stops on an
evening as these might sometimes be accessed by gravel or grass driveways,
which might be wet and uneven. If in doubt, feet down and paddle. Or worst still,
put the stand down and leave the bike at the gate.

Just be careful on the driveway into the farm. There’s a drainage ditch down
the middle which is best avoided and area can be a bit sludgy – it is a working
farm. Paddle your feet if necessary and ask someone to give you a hand if need
be. No extra points – or pudding – for bravery.
This first day is a bit tricky in the sense there are a few turns and to make and
small villages to navigate. Keep an eye on the person behind you and make sure
they’ve made that turn. The rest of the time enjoy the scenery!
DAY TWO
The first half of this second day is some of the best riding this country has to
offer. All the way from Combe Martin to Bridgwater is one long endless coastal
road. There are some steep hills in parts so be mindful of those, and we do turn
off to explore the very narrow lanes down by the cliffs which can be a bit slippy
down the centre, so just be careful, take your time, don’t rush and try to go easy
on that front brake. Engine braking is your friend. Beautiful scenery along here
though, with a quick stop in Lynton to take in the harbour.
DAY ONE
This is the day when it all begins. We will arrange to meet at the Land’s End
Visitor centre at 8am, with aim to hit the road by between 8.45am and 9.00am.
We’ll have a short introduction and brief, take a load of pictures, make our
introductions and hit the road! The Adventure Begin!
The road to Bridgwater continues. Ride it at your own pace. You can’t get lost.
In Bridgwater we’re aiming for the Sainsbury’s and McDonald’s retail park.
There’s a café in Sainsbury’s or McDonald’s over the road. Being a Sunday
From Land’s End we take a left just out of Sennen (past the airporT) and follow
the coastal road all the way to St. Ives. Great road this. Look for the ruins of old
mine shafts and just enjoy the scenery. In St. Ives we look down at the harbour
before heading out to Hayle where we’ll stop for a bit of brekkie and some fuel.
From there we continue to follow the coast to St Agnes and Perranporth,
followed by Newquay and on to Padstow. There’s some great riding along here,
all coastal roads so it’s a steady speed all the way. We take lunch in Perranporth,
parking up down by the sea front for some fish and chips or whatever you
fancy. Plenty of options nearby. From Padstow we head up to Widemouth Bay
and Bude, and then to miss that busy stretch of A39 we head into Holsworthy
and upto Bideford and Barnstaple. That night we tend to stay on a farm in the
small village of Berrynarbor/ (subject to change), where food will be provided,
breakfast the next morning as well.

there’s not much else open. There is a Halfords over the road for anyone
needing it. Lunch here. Fuel up.
From there we carry on, aiming for the Midlands with a night’s stop at the
famous, (or is that infamous?) Dom’s Bike Stop near Leominster. There’s a bit of
good riding this second day afternoon, especially as being a Sunday the roads
tend to be quiet and we’re pressing on for a good night’s sleep.
DAY THREE
Up into the Peak District, with some of the best riding roads of the route. We
head up to Matlock Bath for lunch, a popular place for bikers and a very pretty
spot to regroup. There’s a good selection of cafes and fish and chip shops here,
with the afternoon taking us up past Chatsworth House, which we usually
drop down to see up close. We continue to wind north from there, to Baslow
and up towards Castleton, staying as far away from any busy roads as possible.
You’ll know that we’re on Winnats Pass when the road starts to climb outside of
Castleton. It’s a nice windy road up through the cut in hill - a bit like Cheddar
Gorge but without the traffic - before we come out at the top and keep winding
north alongside the reservoirs of Torside and Woodhead, crossing the second
and heading up and over Holme Moss - one of the highest peak in the Peak
District - before looking down on Holmfirth, where Last of the Summer Wine
was set. We’ll camp somewhere in the Peaks, where, to be confirmed - before
weaving through the lanes, under the frantic M62 and down into Hebden
Bridge, the back way.
DAY FOUR
Day four we finally break free of the Peak District and head for the Yorkshire
Dales and glorious Pennines. There’s some great riding here, just needing to get
north of Skipton - a little bit of dual carriageway - before branching off at Settle
and aiming for the Ribblehead Viaduct, which will hopefully be backed with a
bit of nice weather, fingers and toes crossed. The road to Hawes is great, and if
you want you can even visit the Wensleydale Creamery for a bit of cheese. The
town also has plenty of options for lunch, as well as fuel.
A good lunch puts you in good stead for the climb up Buttertubs Pass, weather
permitting. This is a lovely little run over the moors, along a narrow road, past
remote hamlets and villages. The oldest pub in Britain - The Tan Hill Inn - isn’t
far from here, and time permitting we might stop by for a bag of Scampi Fries
or two, before onwards to Kirby Stephen and a likely night at the Haggs Bank
Bunkhouse with host and owner Danny. It’s all good riding around here, with
glimpses of the old lead mines around these parts. Haggs Bank itself was once
the tool house of one such mine and now a great place to dry any wet gear and
enjoy just our mid-way point.

DAY FIVE
Today we head for the border, cutting upwards to Brampton and then onto
Gretna Green if anyone wants to get married on route. A bit of a slog west
along an A-road takes us to Dumfries, before we shoot off at a right angle,
riding across country in the direction of Ayr on the coast. This is probably my
favourite stretch of road, simple because it goes on for about 70 miles with only
one junction along it and barely any built up areas. You’re just riding through
forests and open ground, and the pace is just flowing.
We skirt around Ayr - rather than venture into it - on a rather bland stretch
of double carriageway, but it is worth the effort as all of a sudden the road
descends on the shores of the Firth of Clyde and the monotony of the 20 miles
of dual carriageway is long forgotten. We now ride north along the shore,
heading for Greenock, where we catch the short ferry to Dunoon. It costs
about £5 per bike, depending on the group price we negotiate at the time
(not included in the price). Before that we might stop for an ice-cream at the
famous parlour at Largs and pick up a disposable BBQ for anyone who didn’t
bring a stove as that night’s camping is at the remote site of Glendaruel, which
is picturesque, and follows a great run through a freshly paved woodland route.
DAY SIX
That’s it, we’re in the Scottish Highlands, heading north to pick up the North
Coast 500 coastal road. We stop at Inveraray for pictures, and breakfast,
before winding up to the famous biker cafe the Green Welly (for brunch)
before making our way through the magical Glen Coe. It can get a bit busy
with tourist traffic through here but it’s still a stunning stretch of scenery
that propels you all the way into Glencoe village, then onto Fort William. We
generally have lunch at Fort William, with something for every budget and
taste. Don’t follow me to McDonald’s if you don’t want to!
The route is easy to follow now. Don’t be afraid to stop for photo opportunities
as no doubt you’ll catch the rest of the group up at the next vantage point.
We’re aiming for Applecross and the magnificent Pass of the Cattle. This one
is a bit dependent on mood and weather. It can get a bit wet and blustery up
there but hopefully we’ll get good weather as the run over the top is one of the
best. You just have to take your time. There are a few tight turns and the road
is narrow. The choice is yours to do it. There is another way around (a long
way around admittedly) but we’ll see how it is on the day. We generally camp
at Applecross, but there might be a change for this year. You’ll just have to wait
and see.

already. You’ll be ready to get there. It will feel like you’ve ridden a lot further but it’ll
have been worth it once you get along that top coastal road, sights set on John o’Groats
(fingers crossed for the weather).
Some grumble about the facilities at John o’Groats but it’s alright. It is what it is, and
what usually happens is that a million photographs get taken before people begin
figuring out what they’re going to do. Some need to get straight back down, some aren’t
sure now. The plan will be to find a base, likely to be in Wick, in which to have a drink,
as well as providing a base for people who want to stay the night, have a meal and set
off the next morning back down. People usually ride in groups on the way back down,
friends now with the people they started off as strangers with eight days prior. And
you’ll be amazed at how easily you’ll zip out the miles now you’ve got 1450 under your
belt.
DAY SEVEN
Applecross around about as far as Durness today. We’re covering ground but
not at a fast pace, and nor do we need to. The roads are generally single track
with passing places along this west coast along here. Take your time and what
I tend to do is break the group down into smaller numbers in order to make
it more manageable for these narrow stretches, as 20 odd bikes all trying to
squeeze into one short passing place just doesn’t go! And the locals get annoyed
as well...
So that’s about, hope this booklet provided a bit of information and advice, as well as
insight into what you’re getting involved in. As I’ve always said, this isn’t a guided tour.
This is your adventure. We’re in it together and there’s freedom for each group to form
differently, and be its own unique trip. Most of all just come along with an open mind
(and preferably a reliable bike!) and I’ll see you at the start line!
Great riding though and the small towns and villages of Gairloch and Ullapool,
as well as many smaller ones, make for a relaxed pace and plenty of places to
get fuel. The best riding however has to be that stretch around the peninsula
from Applecross. Such a lovely bit of up and down and round and round,
following the coast on a winding rural lane. For lunch we usually stop in
Ullapool and sometimes we camp there that night, it all depends on progress
as this last stretch can be a bit unpredictable depending on the weather and the
pace of the road.
DAY EIGHT
And that’s it, the final day, after what will have been about 1300 miles on the road

THE NIGHT BEFORE - LAND’S END
So the trip commences on the Saturday morning, meaning that ideally you
need to be down in Land’s End the night before, on the Friday. This night is
not ‘part’ of the tour so in a sense you’re left to your own devices. Some book
into B&Bs, whilst the youth hostel near Land’s End (Google Land’s End YHA)
is very good and very cheap if you want a bunk, and they also do camping as
well. Alternatively, the tradition has been for those who want to, to camp at the
SeaView campsite only about a mile from Land’s End. It’s not the highest rated
site, nor the cheapest at about £15 per tent pitch, but it’s right beside the First
and Last Inn; a nice little pub that services food until 8pm, therefore handy
for giving a place for everyone to get together on that Friday evening. I tend to
make a group booking so contact me if you would like that doing. Pay at the
site when you get there. Nearer the time we’ll also look to see who’s coming
down from where in case it’s convenient for people to meet up on route and
ride down in convoy.
PLEASE NOTE: Please fill up with fuel as you come through Penzance. There’s
a variety of supermarket fuel stations as you come into the outskirts of town
AT THE END - JOHN o’GROATS
We’ll aim to reach John o’Groats by around 1pm the following Saturday all
being well, but that’s dependent on weather and pace etc, but it’ll certainly
be no later than 3pm. People will no doubt need to make progress south at
different rates. A good suggestion if you plan on heading South straight away
is to aim for Inverness, and then continue on the Sunday. For those in less of a
hurry there is a campsite at John o’Groats (this night is not covered in the cost).
Alternatively, it’s going to be suggested that for anyone who wants to that we
have a night in the nearby towns of either Wick or Thurso (to be confirmed).
Stay in a B&B, camp, whatever you please and we’ll have drinks and a meal on
that Saturday evening.
Some ask about renting a van, or having bikes picked up. A courier could pick
your bike up from Inverness airport and take it back down, but costs could
be high. Another option is to get together and rent a one way rental van from
Inverness. Being completely honest, the easiest way of getting back down is
just to get on the bike and ride. No doubt by the end of the trip you’ll have
found people to ride back down with.