Getting into Adventure Green

A COLLECTION OF STORIES TO INSPIRE
RIDING WITH

www.adventurebikeshop.co.uk
Unit 19, Inca Business Park, Acton, Suffolk CO10 0BB
t: 01787 372901 e: info@adventurebikeshop.co.uk
NEW FOR 2017
Horizon 2
Laminated
£319.99
Poseidon
Laminated
£599.99
Kodiak £899 Carlsbad £635
Cayenne
Mesh £389.99
UK Distributors for.....
Protect your investment
Made for the brave....
in store now
WE ARE THE SOLE UK SUPPLIER
FOR THE ORIGINAL
REDVERZ TENT
PARK YOU BIKE INSIDE
Only 6.03kg.
£539
Adventure.Bike.Shop
@Adventure_Bikes
And many more brands
online & instore

WELCOME
Welcome to a second issue of Getting
into Adventure, this one produced
to coincide with London Motorcycle
Show, with many of the stories coming from the
speakers who are presenting on the Tom Tom
Adventure Stage.
None are professional travellers, simply people
that have found themselves in the position
where a journey by motorcycle makes the most
sense and have lived to tell the tale. I hope
what you’ll find interesting is that whilst their
trips and routes might be considered quite
extreme, the situations and scenarios the people
found themselves in at the start of their trips
were much the same as any of us; often loss of
relatives, relationships or lifestyles. Taboo as it
may sound but loss is one of the greatest driving
forces behind adventure and sometimes without
such loss it’s difficult to make the sacrifices needed
to make bigger trips like these happen. That’s why
once again the focus is not on the distance or time
on the road, nor is it about what bikes people ride
or what gear they wear. It’s about the simple act of
getting out there and challenging yourself to do
that extra mile. And most of all have some fun on
a bike along the way.
A great story this issue is by Tim Duncan.
Hamstrung like the rest of us by commitments
and other priorities, Tim fills up his cheap
Chinese 125 and sees how far he can ride and
how much he can see in just that one tank of
fuel. Whether in Wales or the wilds of Mongolia,
the same nerves of excitment kick in and
by the end of the journey the same sense of
achievement in having done what you set out to
do. Happy travels, wherever you end up.
“ADVENTURE BEGINS THE MOMENT YOU STEP OUT OF YOUR FRONT DOOR”
CONTENTS
AFRICA WITH AUTISM
Page 4-5
BENEATH THE SURFACE
Page 6-7
THE SELFIE GENERATION
Page 8-9
PERCEPTION VS REALITY
Page 10-11
THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY
Page 12-13
AROUND THE WORLD IN A
1000 WORDS
Page 14-15
THE LADY ON THE BIKE
Page 16-17
THE TRAVELLING CIRCUS
Page 18-19
GEOFF’S INDIAN ODYSSEY
Page 20-22
PACKING FOR A LONG
DISTANCE TRIP
Page 24-25
SOLO FEMALE TRAVELLER
Page 26-27
BUILDING AN
ADVENTURE BIKE
Page 28-29
BUDGET BIKES TO CONSIDER
Page 32-33
NEW BIKES TO CONSIDER
Page 34-35
ANATOMY OF A TRAVEL BIKE
Page 36-37
THE BIKE TOURATECH BUILT
Page 38-39
QUICK TIPS ON EUROPE
Page 40
FILMING YOUR OWN
ADVENTURE
Page 42-43
C90S ON THE NC500
Page 44-45
THE ONE TANK CHALLENGE
Page 46-47
Getting into Adventure is designed, written and published by Nathan Millward
With gratitude to and all advertisers Cover illustration by Dave Webb @ Wearebeard

AFRICA WITH AUTISM
THEY SAY FORTUNE FAVOURS THE BRAVE. NO MORE SO IN THE CASE OF MEL AND
SOFIA COWPLAND, WHO TOGETHER CONQUERED THE LENGTH OF AFRICA
Sofia has Autism. Autism
means you don’t have the
ability to process information
about your environment. Before
the trip she wasn’t going outside,
and getting her out the house
when it wasn’t for school was
like starting WW3.
The idea with this ride from
London to Cape Town was to open
her eyes to the world and allow
her to see it for herself. Of course
there are safety issues with taking a
child with autism, or any child for
that matter down through Africa.
But the need to keep safe shouldn’t
always prevent you from doing
things.
Sofia had mixed feelings. She was
part excited and part nervous. The
same really for anyone going on
a big trip. You don’t know what’s
going to happen. All you can do
is prepare yourself for the time
on the road and so during the
planning stages I kept her really
involved. I’d told her that when
driving through Europe the first bit
was going to be horrible; wet and
windy, but that we’d just have to get
through it. By the time we made it
to Austria it was so cold, but Sofia
wanted to carry on.
“IT WAS LIKE
SHE EMBRACED
THE IDENTITY
OF BEING ON
THE ROAD”
The trip was from our home in
England all the way down to South
Africa. We spent two weeks getting
from the UK to Athens in Greece
where the bike was sea freighted
across to Egypt, whilst we flew.
From there we took a steady pace
down through Sudan into Ethiopia,
where a few problems with the bike
slowed us down a bit.
Kenya followed, then Tanzania on
a transit visa. It’s here we began
to see giraffe, wildebeest, zebra,
buffalo and impala along the
roadside. Into Zambia, Zimbabwe
and finally down into South Africa.
The trip was approximately 25000
kilometres and exactly 9 months.
Mid way through Africa I’d noticed
some change in Sofia. She’d started
to pay more attention to her
environment. That was a really
big thing to witness. She’d notice
when it was a beautiful view. She
started to become more confident
and began to communicate with
people. It was like she embraced
the identity of being on the road.
Her confidence level had really
gone up.
In terms of danger on the road,
it helped that the bike’s a real eye
catcher. If everyone’s looking at
the bike it makes it very difficult
for someone to come up and do
something bad to us. But people
were so nice the whole way and we
never had any problems, especially
when they realised it was a mother
and a child travelling together.
The biggest problem was with the
bike. We had countless breakdowns,
at one point leaving us stationary in
Zimbabwe for three months waiting
to get it fixed. It was a combination
of factors that caused the problems
with it. Possibly a bit of poor
maintenance, poor road surfaces
and probably just a bit of bad luck
thrown in for good measure. But it
made it.
The bike is a Ural Sportsman, built
in 2003 and had 14,800 km on the
clock when we set off. The changes
we made to it before the trip were
minor. We fitted an extra battery
in the boot as well as fixings for a
spare tyre. A new stronger driveshaft
was fitted to the side car as
the Ural is two wheeled drive. We
removed the rear seat from the
back of the bike to make room
for a storage rack and two 20-litre
jerry cans. We also fitted a roll bar
to the sidecar for added safety.
Before this trip I’d never ridden
a bike before and passed my test
4 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

in order to complete it. I had some
off road training at Trailquest
in the UK, who also advised me
on security and what to do in an
emergency. In the end the bike
did a total of 19000 kilometres.
It probably did another 4000
kilometres on the back of a truck
after it kept breaking down.
Sofia just 10 years old at the start of the trip
The best bits were when we were
actually moving and not broken
down. That and meeting people
along the way. It was great seeing
peoples reactions. They loved the
bike and what we were doing.
Above all else, the best bit was
coming back to the UK and seeing
the difference in Sofia. Seeing how
much she’d actually changed as a
result of the trip.
It has helped her socially. Her
tolerance to life is much improved
and she has a much better
understanding about the world.
Previously she wouldn’t tolerate a
lot of change, but now she does.
It’s also helped her memory and
brought us closer together in having
something to look back on and
share together.
Some people say I was an
irresponsible mother for taking her
on the trip. But I would say quite
the opposite. The trip has really
given her a great start in life, that’s
why in summer 2017 we’re hoping
to go again, this time across Europe
for nine weeks, including a spell
into Russia. We’re taking the same
sidecar outfit, though hoping for a
bit more reliability this time!
To support Mel and Sofia
on their travels visit www.
adventurewithautism.wordpress.com

BENEATH THE SURFACE
TRAVELLING BY BIKE CAN SOMETIMES BE DANGEROUS AND CONFRONTING.
THAT’S THE REALITY OF IT. WE HEAR FROM RICHARD FIELD ABOUT HIS TIME
IN TURKEY DURING THE RECENT UPRISING OF ISIS
I’d taken a dozen or so short
rides on the continent over
the years and, after my wife
died, two longer group-rides in
India. In early 2015, at the age of
63, I set off on my first Big Trip
and my first solo journey outside
Europe. In many ways it was a
new experience. It took me further
outside my comfort zone than I’d
ever ventured before, and it gave
me a much deeper insight into the
world around me.
There was no question about how
I would travel. I had long ago
discovered that how you arrive
at a place and how you journey
through it has a profound effect on
what you experience. Travelling
by motorcycle gives you a unique
viewpoint. It also allows you an
exceptional ease of movement.
Without Felix, my Suzuki DR650, I
would never have had the freedom
to explore Turkey’s Iraqi/Syrian
borderlands.
It was along this border, in the
town of Şirnak that I sat one
surreal evening drinking tea with
some new friends on the porch
of my hotel. We sat in a haze of
silvery light from the headlamps
of the huge Tomor water-cannon
parked at the head of the street.
We were nine: Cȋhan, Seurat and
Baran, five more Kurdish men, and
me, a lone Englishman, 3,000 miles
from home. Felix had recently
been lifted onto the porch with us
for safety.
“I HADN’T
PLANNED TO GET
STUCK IN THE
MIDDLE OF A
CIVIL WAR”
Ten minutes earlier, a homemade
bomb had bounced off
an armoured car and exploded
in the road nearby. A unit of
armed police appeared and began
combing the adjacent streets. The
Tomor manoeuvred to bring us
more directly into the beam of its
headlight. In the narrow, winding
streets of the upper town, bombs
detonated every few minutes,
answered by the telltale rattle of
Kalashnikov fire. I relaxed and
drank my tea with the others,
cocooned in a magic circle of
Kurdish defiance.
I hadn’t planned to get stuck in the
middle of a civil war. But, as I look
back, I realise I hadn’t planned not
to either. My initial aim had been
to ride through the Balkans, Turkey
and the Caucasus, then as far east
as I could get before winter came.
The Turks I met, though, fired
my curiosity, and I’d spent weeks
listening to their stories and their
concerns. I was mindful, too, of one
of the world’s forgotten tragedies,
the persecution of the Kurds in the
south-east of the country.
It seemed inevitable that I would
eventually be drawn to the
Kurdish homelands, hoping to
find someone there, too, who
could tell their story. The Kurds,
it turned out, had many stories to
tell. For nearly a month I stayed
and listened, travelling from one
impoverished Kurdish town to
another. But it was by sheer chance
that I arrived at the exact moment
the conflict kicked off.
“Have you heard about Kobani?”
Francesco, an aspiring Italian
photojournalist, yelled to me
across the courtyard of a hostel in
the Arab quarter of Urfa. It was
my first morning in the Turkish/
Syrian borderlands, and I was
emerging from my dormitory still
half asleep. “ISIS have blown up
Kobani,” he shouted. “I’m going
down to see. Are you coming?” I
shook my head, unsure what to say
or even to feel. Kobani lay just over
the Syrian border in Kurdish-held
Rojava. I had planned to stay there
the previous night. On a whim, I’d
diverted to Urfa instead.
Despite all the chaos and
conflict of that time, I rarely felt
unsafe. Even in war violence
is localised, and Kurds have a
profound tradition of hospitality
to travellers. Everywhere I went,
6 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

individuals quietly appointed
themselves my bodyguard or
proffered advice and information
on how and where I should travel.
For the rest, I relied on gut instinct
and common sense.
When Fuat approached me in
Hakkari and asked me to accompany
him alone in his van to meet
unnamed men on the outskirts of
the city, my rule about accepting
invitations stalled. I looked into his
wild, glittering eyes and recalled
the stomach-churning videos he’d
shown me, recordings of his time as
a Kurdish volunteer fighting ISIS in
Syria. I declined his request.
I used to think I was the most
unlikely traveller ever, especially
on a motorcycle. I have a fear of
falling. I’m a hopeless mechanic,
and I have four major food allergies
and many minor ones. It takes only
a moment’s lack of care for me to
end up heaving my guts at the side
of a Turkish motorway, or to be
immobilised for days in a Slovenian
hotel or in a plywood cabin high up
in the mountain forests of Kafkasor.
But all this can be managed. I carry
a medical kit. I ask bilingual waiters
to write cards for me in the local
language: ‘no dairy products,’ etc.
And I have a simple, sturdy bike
that any local mechanic can fix.
I learned a lot about myself on this
trip. I learned that I wasn’t a headdown,
dawn-to-dusk rider aiming
for sheer distance. In the course of
my nine-month, nineteen-thousand
mile journey I averaged less than
80 miles a day. I gave myself
permission to linger, taking all the
time I needed to fall in love with
people and places. I covered less
distance than I intended, but I made
many good and lasting friends, and
I found a new, less urgent way of
engaging with the world.
I learned, too, that it really doesn’t
take special courage to travel alone.
The only courage I found I needed
was to get myself over the starting
line. After that it was simple.
Travelling is just everyday life lived
by other means. It’s doing ordinary
things, just in different places and
with different people. Solo travel
demands a greater level of trust and
self-reliance, but it brings its own
special rewards. When you travel
with friends, you take home with
you; they wrap you in a bubble of
familiarity. On your own nothing
diminishes the immediacy of your
experience. ‘Home’ is wherever you
happen to be. Even today, I feel
homesick for Turkey and Georgia.
I got out of Şirnak before the
artillery arrived and the real
fighting began. The town now lies
in ruins, a pile of rubble scattered
across the bare and beautiful
hillsides of south-east Turkey.
What buildings survive, including
my hotel, have been declared
unstable and are being pulled down.
I will never forget Şirnak. The
days I spent there with its people
deepened my sense of engagement
with life and its ever-present
undercurrent of tragedy. It also
taught me, much to my surprise,
that I have an appetite for conflict.
That’s quite a discovery to make
about yourself at the age of 63.
Slow travel on the DR gave me a
window into my own life and into
the lives of others. It reorganised
the way I saw the world, and it gave
me a new sense of possibility. The
only insoluble problem of the entire
trip was coming home.
Turkish Kurds protest the killing of 33 youngsters by ISIS in 2015
By contrast, the peace and serenity of the road

THE SELFIE
GENERATION
AT THE AGE OF 22 RHYS LAWREY RODE
AROUND THE WORLD. HIS AIM WAS
TO HAVE A GOOD TIME AND TRY AND
ENCOURAGE OTHER YOUNG PEOPLE TO
GET OUT AND SEE THE WORLD. WE FIND
OUT MORE...
The idea came about when I was
in New Zealand, Skyping my
old man (Globe Buster’s Kevin
Sanders). We’d talked for a while
about doing a father and son trip as
I was living in New Zealand and he
was living in Europe. The longest
we’d ever lived together was 6 months
and so it seemed like a good way of
spending some quality time together.
At the time he was organising one of
his London to Beijing guided trips,
and the original idea was to join him
on that. Somehow, from there the
idea snowballed and soon progressed
to riding around the world, but the
reality still seemed a long way off.
Back then I was working as a bartender
in Auckland NZ. I’d done my manager’s
course and had been offered an amazing
opportunity to go and run a bar in Las
Vegas. It was one of those T-junctions in
life. On the one hand I had the option
of a good salary, a nice lifestyle and
financial security. On the other hand I
had the idea for this trip burning away
inside of me. I chose the trip.
At the age of 22 I left London and
headed East with my dad, riding
through Europe, Central Asia, China,
and from there alone down to New
Zealand, across to the Americas,
up through southern Africa, and
Europe. I passed through a total of 71
countries, covering 57,000 miles in
the space of 15 months.
One of the most common questions I
get asked is about my career and the
possible damage that taking off on
a big trip can do. The thing with me
is that I’m not academically strong
and never have been. I’ve not been
ambitious to go to university or
anything like that, but I have always
been hard working and keen to
progress. You can look at it two ways.
When you’re young you have nothing
to lose. You don’t have a partner or
kids. Alternatively, you could get
a career, build on that and within
10-15 years you might become very
restricted and may never get the
chance to go.
I meet a lot of people who tell me
Highway 1, Big Sur bridge, USA
8 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

about their barriers. I think we have
them at any age. Thankfully my
mum was very supportive. At first
she was a bit worried that her boy
was going into danger. But her words
were; ‘You have nothing to lose but
yourself, so you should go and do it.
Careers, jobs; they’re always there.’
Not everyone has that support
and without it it can tough. I’d say
if you’re being told not to do the
thing you want to do, then listen
to yourself. We all know what we
want to do and if you can explain to
people what and why you want to
do it, then in my book if they truly
love you they’ll support you. But it
is hard; overcoming other peoples’
objections is one of the hardest
things.
The benefit of doing something like
this when you’re young is that you’re
a lot more vibrant. You’re healthier,
and probably a little more agile
and able to recover more quickly -
particularly when you fall off. This
could also be seen as a negative, as
when you’re younger you’re also a bit
more naïve and oblivious to dangers
and consequences. You’re also less
likely to have pre-conceived ideas
about what people or countries are
going to be like and therefore you’re
inclined to be more open minded.
On my trip it didn’t hit me until I
reached Turkmenistan the scale of
what I was doing. But you face all
these challenges and you start to
mature. You have to. And you start
to realise the benefit of that naivety
as it helps you take a jump into the
unknown.
“OVERCOMING
OTHER PEOPLES’
OBJECTIONS
IS ONE OF THE
HARDEST THINGS”
When it came to documenting my
trip my aim was to try and connect
with a younger audience who are
more likely to be about the here
and now. It’s all about Instragram,
Facebook and Twitter, and the only
way to reach that audience is to
speak their language. So I got out
the selfie stick and used the front
camera on the GoPro and phone.
I’m also dyslexic and struggle to
read and write, so for me it was
much more within my reach than
say writing a blog or a book, like
other people do.
It wasn’t until I came back that
I realised some of the people
following my trip have gone off and
planned their own adventures. That
was a great feeling and always nice
to think you’ve given someone the
encouragement to live their own
dreams. The only thing I’d say about
blogging and vlogging, is that it can
become a burden. There are times
when I didn’t film or take pictures,
and that’s hard because the more
you document your trip the more
expectant people are to see what
you’re up to. Like anything it’s best
done in moderation. You have to
enjoy the trip first and foremost.
I have to laugh when people say ‘just
go and do it’. It’s never as easy or as
simple as that. If you want to do it,
you can do it, but it takes a lot of
determination and sacrifice, with
sacrifice being the biggest thing you
have to accept.
Foot-tapping somewhere in southern Oz
The main thing is to appreciate
that everyone’s different. There’s no
practical ‘here’s how to do it’. On
a broader scale you need money
and to find some time. But how to
go about it, that’s the difference.
Because we’re all different. Different
circumstances, different health,
different wealth. Different views,
different personalities. As long as
you get out there and do something,
that’s the main thing.
Double-tap; Oslo, Norway

PERCEPTION VERSUS REALITY
JON HOLLIS IS ON A YEAR LONG TOUR OF THE STATES, LEARNING
AS HE GOES ALONG TO RELAX INTO THE RHYTHM OF THE ROAD
How did the trip across
America come about?
Since 2012 I started travelling
a lot more and after my first solo trip
to Germany in 2013 I found that I
prefer riding alone. After visiting a
lot of European countries I was in
Bulgaria on holiday with my wife,
when over a beer in a café in Varna
she suggested that I should take on
a longer trip as it was all I’d been
talking about at the time.
My father passed away when he
was my age and I think that was a
massive drive as it left me with the
knowledge that potentially you only
have a short time to achieve what
you want.
Was is it a ‘dream’ trip for you, and
if so why?
No I wouldn’t say that it is
something I’d been dreaming of
for ages, but the combination of
good roads (I’m not into rough
terrain riding), great distance and
the unknown was a challenge, and
it was the challenge that I wanted.
I wanted a sense of achievement
that no one in my personal life had
experienced.
At what stage in life were you at?
I was 46 when the trip started and
I hit 47 a week into it. I have one
daughter from a previous marriage
and two step children. I’m married
but we don’t live together. We
plan to live together again but due
to some complications at home
we won’t be living together for
at least a couple of years, which
gave me a window that most don’t
get. I needed emotional backing
from all. My wife, daughter, first
wife and my mother were all
supportive.
What were your fears about the
trip?
Although I had no fear about the
actual riding, my fears were more
emotional. Missing home, friends
and family being the biggest I
guess. I was concerned about
my bike going through customs,
although the shipping company
were helpful as were the US
customs themselves.
What were you looking forward to
the most?
Seeing places that I haven’t seen
before. Not having a specific time
limit on each destination, instead
looking to be somewhere enough
time to enjoy it until my internal
clock said move on.
What bike were you taking and why?
I own a couple of bikes. A 2013
Triumph Tiger Sport and a 2008
Honda CBF1000. Originally I was
going to take the Triumph, but for
the two years leading up to the trip
I found that I was riding the Honda
more and more and after quite a
few modifications I found that I
preferred it. It’s old enough to be
fixed by spanners and new enough
to be reliable. Plus, it’s not that
desirable so less chance of it being
stolen. Also my mates take the piss
out of it so I wanted to be stubborn
and prove a point.
“THE CONSTANT
MOVING ON IS A
DOUBLE EDGED
SWORD”
How long will the trip be and why
that length?
I have allowed one year, which
gives me enough time to spend
on average one week per state, but
that’s not fixed, as some states I
know will require more time than
others. Also the Honda has to be
shipped out within a year due to the
American EPA laws.
What planning and research did
you do beforehand?
I’ve travelled a lot on my bikes so
packing wasn’t a concern. For me
it was insurance and shipping that
was the issue, plus other unknowns,
so I spoke to some people that have
biked somewhere further than
Europe and got some advice.
I needed to get a tourist visa as
I will be in America for over the
allowed 90 days, which was a
nightmare as the website isn’t easy
to navigate and took me 4 months
to get it. The EPA approval for the
bike was much easier.
I also Googled some places to visit,
but that went out of the window
pretty much from day one as the
locals I met were better sources of
information.
One issue I had was insuring the
bike abroad as my UK insurance
doesn’t cover it. A Facebook forum
was my solution. I posted about
my problem and a guy in Florida
came to the rescue. Doug Wothke
is a bike traveller and allowed me
to use his address and gave me the
company who insures foreign bikes.
How did you find the trip in the
early days?
I was shocked at how uneasy I
felt in the first two weeks. I was
suspicious of people and found
myself looking for any threats which
I assume comes from being such
a distance from home. I was also
riding different to my usual style
as I didn’t feel relaxed. Having my
bike with me made me more settled
as it was familiar, but there was still
something wrong. After a week I
stripped my bike and repacked. After
that things started to fall into place.
I must have had something on my
mind regarding the bike and looking
it all over settled me.
What did you find toughest, and
equally easiest during those first
few days on the road?
America isn’t generally very good
for pedestrians and after a day’s
riding I wanted to find motels with
restaurants or food shops near by.
Harder than you think. Working out
fuel was tough as you have to pay
prior to filling up and all I wanted
was to fill to the brim. It’s surprising
how good I’ve got at that now.
People told me prior to leaving about
the massive distances involved, but
I found this easy as my journey has
become a series of small trips-so it
doesn’t seem that daunting. Even
the vast open spaces in states like
Texas leave me with awe but do not
intimidate.
The constant moving on is a double
edged sword. I miss the stability of
coming back home and crave that
slightly, but it’s the anticipation of
my next destination that drives me
on so I know I have to put up with
that negative.
How have you felt yourself
developing as the trip has gone on?
I find that I’m less opinionated and
tend to listen more. Coming here
as Trump has become president has
made conversations interesting. I’ve
been chatting to people I wouldn’t
normally, homeless etc... this took
some guts initially but now I laugh
at myself as people are generally
nice no matter their situation.
I’ve been taking photos along the
way and that has made me look
at things differently, so I’ve loved
getting back into that hobby.
Is the trip as ‘good’ as you
expected it to be? If so why, if not,
why not?
It’s good but not what I expected. It
has been predominately about the
people I’ve met whereas I thought it
would be about the places I would
visit.
How much more time do you have
left on the road and what are you
looking forward to the most?
I have ridden 8000 miles and 11
states so far, therefore I have 39
more states to visit and due to my
way of travelling I’m not sure of the
mileage left. The start of my trip has
been in the winter so I’m looking
forward to my route not being
dictated by the weather as much.
Although I accept being cold, if
I had the choice I would avoid
freezing weather.
Last question, are you glad you
went?
Yes. I’ve done some things that
others will never get to do and seen
some amazing sights. I’ve met a
tonne of people but only connected
at a friend level with a few and
those people I value now. It’s been
tough being out of my comfort
zone, but the sense of achievement
makes it worthwhile.
Follow John’s blog at
www.onyourbiketoursblog.co.uk
10 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

Getting off the beaten track in Texas
Proving to be the right bike for the trip

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY
OFTEN OVERLOOKED, THE COASTAL ROAD ALONG IRELAND’S WESTERN SHORE IS
A GEM. GRAHAM COTTER SHARES HIS RECENT TRAVELS THERE...
In 2016 I decided to attend
both the Horizons Unlimited
meetings at Hay on Wye in
South Wales and the Irish HUBB in
Enniskillen the following weekend,
with a bit of sightseeing in between.
Having attended the Irish event the
year before I knew I was in for some
great craic and great riding roads.
THE PLAN
I like to keep my plans simple, so the
idea was to camp at the UK HUBB,
then leave there on the Sunday and
ride across the back roads of Wales
to my brothers’ place in North Wales,
stay the night, and leave the next
morning for a ferry from Anglesey
to Dublin. From there I would head
north into Ulster, follow the Antrim
coast into Donegal and the wonderful
Wild Atlantic Way, then to the
Irish HUBB at Enniskillen. After a
weekend there I would head south
to Wicklow to see an aunt and then
catch another ferry back to Anglesey.
Putting the plan into practice is so
easy thanks to the internet. In no time
at all registration for the two HUBB’s
was complete and the ferries booked.
My actual route was flexible, so I used
a hotel booking website (there are
several so take your pick) to search
for available accommodation in
various places along my route.
I now had a rough route including
daily destinations with postcodes
and better yet, grid references to
put in the sat nav. Grid references
are brilliant as they can literally take
you to the door of the address you
are searching for.
WHERE TO STAY?
As we know the weather in Ireland
can be damp, so the thought of
camping in the rain, packing a
wet tent, setting up a wet tent and
generally being damp on my annual
holiday didn’t appeal. I like camping
and I camp many times each year,
but I like my creature comforts too.
Also, a quick look at campsites in
Ireland reveals that they are few
and far between, plus geared up for
caravaners rather than motorcyclists
and can cost 12-20 Euros a night
or more. On the other hand, some
really good B&Bs can be had from
35 Euros, with Wifi, en-suite, offroad
parking and a home cooked
breakfast to set you up for the day.
Another good source of budget
accommodation are Youth Hostels,
where annual membership costs
from £15, and much less if you
are a real youth and not a recycled
one like me. Once a member
then a world full of discounted
hostels are available in a myriad of
locations. Youth Hostels have secret
advantages too, like info on local
places of interest, routes to take/
avoid, many do meals, there are
power points to charge your phone,
and all come with companionship
for the night.
THE FERRY
The ferries across the Irish Sea
are frequent, quick, clean and
comfortable. Unlike ferries of old,
where bikes were roped in against
any convenient immovable bit
of boat, modern ferries have bike
specific areas with deck mounting
loops and straps. Putting the bikes
together introduces you to your
fellow travelling bikers, allowing you
to meet like minded travellers and
chat the journey away. Watch your
exit out of the port at Dublin, as the
authorities there would have you go
straight to the toll road, where the
toll booths are unmanned and only
take Euros. Oh what joy I had the
other year when caught in their trap
without any Euro coins, and how
happy were the nice people in the
cars stuck behind!
THE ROADS
I don’t like motorways particularly,
maybe because the nearest one
to me is the M25, so when I can
I ride country roads, B roads and
at a pinch A roads. I was spoilt in
Ireland; they have a nearly new
motorway/toll road network if you
Not always the weather, but always the roads
12 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

As good as anywhere on a sunny day
want to be almost anywhere in the island
quickly, yet the older roads are still there,
going through rather than around the
towns and villages along your route and
can be clear of traffic. Thankfully the big
supermarkets haven’t got into urban and
rural Ireland like they have in Britain,
meaning every town and most villages
still have their own petrol stations and
small supermarkets. You won’t have any
worries about running out of fuel
or supplies.
Pubs are in every village should you
require refreshment, but remember
that the Irish authorities have a zero
tolerance of drink driving. I found
most of the roads to be just fine, well
maintained and well sign posted. Speed
isn’t required, as the views of rural
Ireland demand you slow down and
take it all in. Another advantage is that
like all civilised nations the Irish drive
on the left hand side of the road.
The Wild Atlantic Way is well marked
and clings to the sea from Donegal in the
north around the western seaboard and
ending up in the south. The views are
spectacular and varied, with mountains,
valleys, moors, The Burran, high cliffs
and vast sandy beaches. This is a road
not to be ignored.
WHAT TO DO?
Ireland has a well established tourist
industry catering for all tastes. The
choices are varied and of very good
quality. Ireland’s history and culture
is everywhere and easily accessible.
Sports like golf and fishing are very well
catered for, cultural centres like theatres,
museums, galleries are plentiful. The
Irish are friendly, clever, witty and always
keen to help.
COSTS?
The costs of travelling around Ireland will
depend very much on the Sterling/Euro
exchange rate, which itself is dependent
on the Brexit negotiations. Overall
the costs won’t be much more than an
equivalent trip here in Britain, with the
exception of the price of the ferry.
THE BIKE
Any bike will do, as long as it is road
legal, reliable, comfortable and able to
carry you, maybe your passenger and
your gear safely. I used my Yamaha
MT09 Tracer with Givi panniers and
this was probably too much bike for
the solo riding I did. With fuel being so
readily available and distances relatively
short, compared to say Scotland, then
the worry of running out of petrol
isn’t something that will stress you
out. With my gear safely locked inside
my panniers security was never a
problem, you might want to take further
precautions in the bigger cities as you
would anywhere else in the UK. Most of
all just enjoy it.
Graham’s choice of bike was a Yamaha Tracer 900

AROUND THE WORLD IN A 1000 WORDS
LONDON COPPER BRUCE SMART EXPLAINS HOW IT TOOK HIM TWO
ATTEMPTS TO MAKE IT AROUND THE WORLD...
For me it goes back to Ewan
McGregor and Charley
Boorman and the Long Way
Round. I saw that and fell in love
with the idea of riding around the
world. I’d never ridden a bike before
but saw what they were doing and
thought, ‘I want to do that’.
But like most people I thought
it was something I would do
when I retire, or never do at
all. Unfortunately my mum got
diagnosed with cancer. She fought
it for a long time and towards the
end she was living with me. We
were chatting when the Long Way
Round came on, and I said how
much I’d love to do something like
that. Mum turned to me and said,
‘Don’t get to my stage in life and
regret what you’ve not done. Look
after those that you love, but live
your life.’
That struck a chord. There and then
I went online and Googled direct
access, found a place near me and
booked myself on it. That was it. I
did my direct access. Passed that.
Bought a GSX-R600 having failed
my test the first time for fluffing my
u-turn
I turned up at the hospice where my
mum was and said, ‘I’ve done it, I’ve
passed my test.’ She gave me a big
smile and said, ‘Promise me you’ll
do this trip.’ She died six days later.
Still, I thought I can’t do it now, I’ve
got a job, a mortgage, a son. I’ve
got responsibilities. I can’t go yet.
Then I happened to be at work one
day - I’m a police officer in London
- when I happened to be chasing a
bloke who pulled a gun on me and
pulled the trigger. I heard the click
but luckily the gun didn’t go off.
It was then that I realised I’ve just
got to get on and do it.
In the end it took 3 years to get
ready to go. It took that long to get
my life to a point at which I was
ready to go. I was trying to work
out my budget. I tried to figure out
how much money I would need to
cover the maintenance for my son,
how much I would need for my
flat. How much I would need for
fuel, food, shipping, lodging. Also,
I guess if you set your deadline so
far in the future you don’t have to
worry about it so much. That the
day will never come. But it did
come.
I set off in October 2012 and got
as far as Mauritania on the west
of Africa before I decided to turn
back. It was an unfortunate time.
There was a massive explosion in
Islamic fundamentalism, moving
into Mali and Mauritania. There
were road blocks everywhere and
I suddenly realised that I was in
the middle of the Sahara and I felt
totally vulnerable. I found that hard
to deal with, I have to admit. It
was a massive
decision. I felt
a total failure
and it haunted
me for a long
time.
Thankfully, the
failure of the
first trip gave
me the drive to
give it another
go. A year later,
I did.
On the second
trip I went into
Europe, up into
Scandinavia,
Denmark, Sweden, Norway,
Finland, Eastern Europe and
eventually into Romania, then
right across Russia, South Korea,
Japan, across to Thailand, Malaysia,
Indonesia, then all the way down to
Australia.
From Sydney I shipped the bike to
Chile then rode the Pan America
highway all the way up into North
America, down to Florida, and up
into Canada. I was trying to get
up to Alaska but I hit a bad spell
of weather so headed back to New
York, shipped the bike to Dublin,
lapped Ireland before coming home
via the Isle of Man. I was on the
road 390 days in total. I covered
74,000 miles in a year. I didn’t have
anything stolen until I reached the
Isle of Man, when someone nicked
my tank bag.
I slept in fields, deserts, peoples’
back yards. Occasionally hotels,
hostels, people I’d met on Facebook.
The hardest areas to find places
to stay were in Europe. Just
because I was new to it and wasn’t
certain of what I was doing. I like
to be in control. I like to know
what’s happening. It’s the gradual
realisation that life on the road can
mean you’re not in control. You deal
with now. You have to be flexible.
My daily budget was about £35
a day in Europe, then in Russia
about £10-15 a day, in the Far
East anything as low as £5. I was
generally doing 200 to 350 miles a
day. The most I did in one go was
1500 miles.
The biggest problem I had was with
the subframe. It kept snapping and
I had to repair or replace it 4 times.
When I set off I had way too much
stuff, maybe 60 kilos of luggage.
I set off with ration packs, a full
tool kit. All the stuff I didn’t need.
The first time it went was in the
Sahara. I went through 3 subframes
until I reached Japan when I had it
reinforced.
In terms of advice for other people
I’d say, ‘just go.’ The hardest part is
leaving. Once you’re going you’re
alright, you’re just riding a bike. I
wouldn’t look for the sponsorship
aspect that I did initially. They can
have an influence on your trip,
sometimes negative. Telling you
where to go and what to supply.
In the end the experience cost
me around £35,000, which was
for everything; the bike, expenses
on the road, expenses back home
whilst I was away.
In terms of what next, for me it feels
like I’ve done it, though I do have
unfinished business with Africa.
I don’t have that drive to go back
yet. But I would like to go back
someday. It beat me last time.
14 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

The hard pack roads of Laos
Overlooking the rice fields of Indonesia
Meeting people along the way, Indonesia
The friendly faces of Thailand

Jacqui still rides her Enfield regularly
16 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

THE LADY ON THE BIKE
RETIRED NURSE JACQUI FURNEAUX SPENT 7 YEARS RIDING AROUND THE WORLD
ON A ROYAL ENFIELD. HERE SHE ANSWERS THE QUESTIONS MOST PEOPLE ASK...
What about your pension?
I gave in my notice after thirty
years in the NHS. I thought I’d let
someone else have a go and went
off backpacking for a year. I had the
safety net of an unpaid career break
and was told there would be a job
for me when I got back, but I never
did go back. I was having too much
fun and learning so much about the
world. Now I am of pensionable age
and I manage!
Where will you sleep?
I was a bit concerned about that,
until I arrived in Asia to find
hostels, hotels and guest houses
everywhere. I forgot that human
beings have exploring in their genes
and have been wandering around
the world trading and exploring
since we came down from the trees.
Weren’t you worried about going
to Islamic countries?
I had been working for and with
people with a Pakistani heritage
for seven years before I went to
Pakistan so I was aware of some of
the culture before I went. Adopting
a ‘when in Rome do as the Romans
do’ attitude, I bought clothes to hide
my shape and a scarf to cover my
hair. This was much appreciated
and I received only kindness and
generosity.
Aren’t you afraid of rape, robbery
and murder?
I looked at British daily newspapers
and heard the news and reckoned it
is a risk anywhere. After almost ten
years spent travelling, I was robbed
only once (in Australia).
What if you get ill?
When I first set off, I carried an
extensive first aid kit. Needles,
syringes, a drip set, bandages,
plasters, antibiotics and my
backpack was full of lotions and
potions. After a month, I could see
that all these things were available
in pharmacies everywhere so
dumped them. They have doctors
and nurses abroad, too!
What if the bike breaks down?
I learned to do minor repairs
myself and found that help is
never far away. In a remote part
of Australia, part of the frame of
my bike snapped. A welder who
visited the outpost came once a
month. His visit was the next day!
Things have a way of working out
and breakdowns result in meeting
local people, which is the best thing
about travelling!
“I HAVE VERY
MIXED FEELINGS
ABOUT CONSTANT
COMMUNICATION”
What do you do for money?
It wasn’t quite so easy when I
started backpacking in Asia, but
now there is internet banking
and ATMs are everywhere. So if
you have some, money is easily
accessible. I carry two different
cards: Visa and Mastercard to
cover those countries where one is
more acceptable than another. In
some European countries, credit
cards are not widely accepted.
I found it better to carry cash
in Germany and Portugal for
instance. I worked as a nurse in
New Zealand and taught English in
Pakistan to boost my savings.
What do you DO all day?
People whose foreign travel may
be annual holidays of a couple of
weeks imagine that longer spells
away are an extension of being in
holiday mode. I found the process
of bike maintenance, eating and
drinking, finding somewhere to
sleep, finding roads to the next
destination, talking with people
and information-gathering in a
different language, learning a new
culture, finding fuel and most of
all doing all this on a strict budget
in stiflingly hot or bitterly cold
temperatures took up most of the
day! Rearranging and jettisoning
luggage is a major occupation in
an effort to carry less weight more
efficiently, I managed with about
half the stuff I took originally.
Being minimalist is important!
What if you get lost?
I do not travel with satellite
navigation, although if off-roading
in the desert, I probably would.
For me, one of the pleasures of
travelling is meeting people and
what better introduction is there
than to pull up to someone and say,
“Excuse me, I’m lost. Can you help
me?” Making yourself vulnerable
seems to trigger the best in people.
That’s one of the best surprises I
discovered. People will literally go
out of their way to show you the
right road or somewhere to stay
or eat. I have been taken back to
someone’s home on many, many
occasions.
What do you do about clothes
when going from hot to cold
countries?
At first I took clothes for all
occasions and situations! Then I
realised that the people who live
there need clothes and have to buy
them somewhere so gave most
of them away to save weight and
space. You can buy suitable clothes
wherever you are. Many countries
have charity shops and secondhand
stalls. I took dozens of pairs
of knickers with me at first, but of
course they are available on market
stalls. Everyone wears them! It’s the
same with medical supplies and
hygiene items. Everyone needs them.
Don’t you miss family and friends?
Yes, very much. Email, social media
and Skype have replaced letters,
postcards and expensive phone calls.
It’s easy to keep in touch now. I have
very mixed feelings about constant
communication tying travellers
to where they come from and not
where they are. I find people talk to
those around them less.
Won’t the food and water be a bit
‘dodgy’?
Being on a budget meant I ate
street-food rather than five-star
gourmet dishes. This is usually
delicious and has the advantage
that you can see it freshly cooked
in front of you rather than sitting
in a hotel kitchen for hours. I did
have tummy upsets from time to
time, but one of these occasions was
in New Zealand so it can happen
anywhere. Appalled at the empty
water-bottles littering places I
visited, I started drinking the same
water the locals do and was OK.
Did you worry the Enfield might
get stolen?
If my bike was stolen, it would put a
stop to this wonderful lifestyle and
after a while, I bonded heavily with it
(and no other bike would do!) So if
I couldn’t have it either in the room
with me or sleep next to it in warm
countries where I could wild-camp,
I made sure it was out of sight and
chained up. But I don’t think anyone
was tempted! I love it but it isn’t
everyone’s dream machine.
Jacqui is currently working on her
book, titled ‘Hit the Road Jac’. Keep
an eye out for it.

THE TRAVELLING CIRCUS
IT’S ABOUT THE PEOPLE YOU MEET ON THE ROAD, BELIEVES ROB ARCHIBALD,
HAVING SPENT NINE MONTHS RIDING A HONDA CG125 THROUGH MUCH
OF AFRICA. HE EXPLAINS MORE...
People not only enrich the
journey, they shape it, if you
let them. For me, the joy
of travelling comes from giving
myself to new surroundings by
talking to people and saying yes to
things, before riding the wave of
opportunities that follow; living day
by day, so deep in every moment
that any nostalgia or expectations
float into irrelevance
The beauty of this colourful and
unpredictable way of life is its
simplicity, yet settling into it can
be anything but simple. There are
all sorts of factors that make it
hard to find your rhythm on the
road, but the reward for working
through them (or with them) is a
pace of life, tailored to you, by you,
in harmony with a world of infinite
possibilities.
On my recent trip through Africa
I found it especially hard to settle
into the journey, and I almost gave
up before I’d found my rhythm.
It was July 2015, one month into
my trip riding my trusty Honda
CG125 Freddo back from South
Africa to England. I was staying on
a converted train that runs along
the shore of Mossel Bay, a harbour
town only 500km from Cape Town.
Through the carriage window by
my bed, I watched dolphins and
seals play in the calm bay – a sight
I’d become familiar with over the
last two excruciatingly long days,
as I roamed the beach like a lost
donkey. I was love sick.
Eight months earlier, back in
England, I thought I’d met the
love of my life – Lucy. We were
both at points in our lives where
a relationship was the last thing
we needed, which only made one
more enticing. I was planning to
ride Freddo down through Africa,
with my grand departure was set
for 22nd March 2015 from the Ace
Cafe in London. The time flew by
all too fast. When the big day came
I left Ace Cafe with Lucy riding
pillion, before a teary farewell at
Paddington.
I made it four days and 300 miles
into France before I turned back for
her. I’d persuaded her to do it with
me. So, for the next three months
I lived with Lucy and her lovely
family, while she finished studying.
Unfortunately, that was enough
time for some cracks to appear
in the plan, and the relationship.
The disastrous practice expedition
to Wales was the final nail in the
coffin.
I still had huge feelings for her,
which made going away by myself
for a second time that much harder.
Riding toward home seemed a more
manageable prospect and I needed a
drastic change of scenery, hence why
I flipped the trip and flew me and the
bike to Cape Town, with the plan of
riding back, in the direction of home.
We Skyped a lot for the first few
weeks, but that inevitably tailed
off. We had to tell ourselves ‘if it’s
meant to be, it’ll be some day’. It was
a hard nut to swallow and I was still
choking on it as I sat, day dreaming,
in that Mossel Bay train.
I felt I’d lost two loves – Lucy, and
the trip of my dreams – I didn’t
have a drop of motivation to
continue. After three lonely days
watching the dolphins and feeling
ungrateful, I saddled up, ready to
ride back to Cape Town, fly home
and cry.
That’s when I met Louis and Trevor,
two friendly, old Afrikaans bikers
who turned up and started taking
pictures of Freddo. They were
interested in my journey and insisted
on buying me a beer – which
sounded a lot more appealing than
more sullen days alone.
Tanzanian navigation system
‘Ready to go’ - Drakensberg, South Africa
18 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

By the fifth round of chocolate
stout and lager cocktails, the whole
sorry tale had come out, and Louis
and Trevor were doing a good job
of slapping some sense into me.
They lived nearby and invited me
to stay for a few days. I met their
wives, Martha and Mariana, who
were just as welcoming. The four
of them spoiled me rotten with
extravagant home cooked feasts,
interesting day trips and enough
whiskey to drown a giraffe. It was
like a family Christmas. Exactly the
boost I needed, and not a moment
too soon.
“LET EVENTS
UNFOLD, TRUST
YOURSELF AND
THE WORLD”
At the end of my stay, Trevor rode
me out of the bay, and onto the most
stunning mountain road I’ve ridden.
From there he pointed me to the
one that trumped it - The Swartberg
Pass - A narrow dirt road that carves
its way through hilly, green, coastal
bushland, before unexpectedly
straddling the jagged crest of a rain
shadow casting mountain ridge, to
reveal a desolate and rocky, Marslike
landscape.
I had a very long, very satisfying
cigarette, then whooped like kid on a
roller-coaster as I descended into the
deep red gorge below. Gob-smacked
by this drastic and truly enormous
scenery, and emotionally revitalised
by the kindness I’d received, I
knew it had begun. I fell into the
adventure, ready and excited for
whatever it would throw up next.
From then on in, the trip was about
connecting with people from around
the world, learning from local
cultures, and filling my memory
bank with beauty – not about my
mileage, or keeping up a blog, or
riding home to someone who may
or may not have moved on.
By taking it one step at a time,
opening up to people around me,
and making a conscious effort
to be in the moment, I was able
to continue wiggling up through
Southern and Eastern Africa for
nine months; hopping from one
merry band to another, before my
bank balance finally dragged me
home from Nairobi.
They were the most exciting and
eye-opening nine months I’ve
had, of which memories, both
good and bad, are now life lessons
and conduits to a humbling shift
in perspective. I’d encourage
anyone considering a big overland
adventure to make it happen.
Let events unfold, trust yourself
and the world, and explore your
unknown. It’s easier than you think.
Just go.
PLANNING YOUR OWN AFRICAN
ADVENTURE
Africa is a big place. It would take a lifetime to explore properly. A solid
option is to start in the south and explore the southern regions. Plenty of
guided and self guided tours cater for this (such as Kaapstad Tours and Jo
Rust), with bike rental readily available in Cape Town/Johannesburg.
For Rob’s trip he needed a Carnet de Passage for his bike as he was
freighting it in from England. The Carnet cost £1550, £800 of which is
returned when he and the bike returned to the UK. Flying the bike was
£1200 from London to Cape Town with James Cargo, and the same cost
from Nairobi to London. You can save yourself time and money by buying
a bike in South Africa, which you wouldn’t then need a Carnet for (a
Carnet is for when temporarily importing a foreign registered vehicle into
a country that requests one on entry - see www.overlandingassociation.
org for more information).
That website is also a great source of information on visa requirements,
with some countries possible to get at land borders, whilst others have to
be applied for ahead. In terms of safety and ease of passage, the eastern
route through Africa is more palatable than the west, though both are
possible. Horizons Unlimited is the website you need for all trip planning.
www.horizonsunlimited. com
The Swartberg Pass

GEOFF’S INDIAN
ODYSSEY
AUTHOR GEOFF HILL RIDES THE ROOF OF THE WORLD
ON A ROYAL ENFIELD HIMALAYAN
20 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

The first time I rode from Delhi
to Chandigarh, it was with my
mate Paddy Minne on two
Royal Enfields, on the first leg of a
7,000-mile ride back to the UK.
It was 1998, I’d passed my bike test
two years earlier, and ridden 30 miles
on a bike in my life. Including the
test. This time, I was 18 years older,
and not a bit wiser, but at least the
Royal Enfield was better than ours
back then, which were made of little
more than tinfoil and hope.
The new Enfield Himalayan, it’s
designed for newbies moving up
from a 125cc machine and with
their gaze fixed on the horizon, just
as good at going to the shops as to
the Himalayas.
Which was exactly where I was
heading, on the Himalayan
Odyssey, one of a host of official
Royal Enfield rides from a company
already making 400,000 bikes
a year, with a new 750cc twin
in the offing, and hell bent on
global domination of mid-range
motorcycling by 2020.
Rather than fitting the existing
500cc Bullet engine with a small
bore kit, the Himalayan’s 411cc
lump is fresh off the drawing board,
and has a carb rather than injection.
Remember those?
Enfield’s rationale is that a carb is
easier to fix in the back of beyond
by a man with a hammer, while
the bike’s adventure credentials
are ticked by a Harris chassis,
rear mono-shock, long-travel
suspension, crash bars, upswept
exhaust and 21in front wheel.
The 15-litre tank may not sound
much by GS Adventure standards,
but with the frugal long-stroke engine
giving upwards of 80mpg, it’s enough
for a range of up to 230 miles.
The biggest surprise, though, as I
climbed aboard in Delhi, was the
dash. Compared to my Enfield,
which had a speedo and ammeter,
this was like the instrument panel
of the Space Shuttle, with a speedo,
tacho and a digital panel telling
you everything to the time of high
tide in Hong Kong. It even has a
compass, just in case you get lost on
the way to Sainsbury’s.
As I rode north on the dual
carriageway out of Delhi with 75
Indian riders on various Enfields
and a smattering of Australians,
French and Colombians, it was 46C
and as humid as a Turkish bath.
I could tell I was in India when I
passed an elephant trundling along
the slow lane, but at least he was
going the right way; the last time,
I’d met a horse walking the other
way down the fast lane, although
I use the term lane loosely, since
locals pay little attention to them,
traffic lights or other road users.
Still, it’s not as bad as Naples.
As for the bike, acceleration, as
you’d expect with only 25 horses
under the tank, didn’t set my pants
on fire, although to be fair, my pants
were so soggy due to the heat and
humidity that even a Multistrada
running on methanol would have
failed to ignite them.
Having said that, it’s perky enough
if you keep it in the sweet spot
between 3,000 and 5,000rpm, and
the real surprise was that even at
a top speed nudging 75mph, the
engine’s balance shaft kept it so
smooth that the mirrors were rocksolid
compared to the vibey 500cc
Bullet and 535cc Continental GT.
Mind you, at that speed, the engine
was talking to me, and what it was
saying in cultivated Anglo-Indian
tones was: “I say, old chap, are
you late for an appointment or
something?” I apologised profusely,
and settled back to a contented
55mph and 5,000rpm.
“I SAY OLD CHAP,
ARE YOU LATE FOR
AN APPOINTMENT
OR SOMETHING?”
Handling was sweet and light, and
the combination of that 21in front
wheel and 8in and 7in suspension
travel on the front and rear
respectively soaked up even the most
ham-fisted efforts of RJ Singh, voted
India’s worst road builder for the
past three years. However, the real
test would come in the mountains,
where every spring the Himalayas
chew up the roads and spit them
out to teach humans a lesson about
trying to conquer nature.
The brakes, meanwhile, have only
one disc up front, but it’s more than
adequate with only 183kg of bike
to haul in, although with no slipper
clutch, the back wheel locked quite
easily when changing down to first.
Still, with such a light bike it
was never a problem, and it
was accompanied by a delicious
symphony of pops and barps from
the exhaust.
Only faults? A seat designed for
Indian riders, who weigh the same

as half a lettuce leaf, and a slightly
pernickety gearbox which needed to
be seduced into action rather than
told what to do, and which even after
several days was still spurning my
attempts to introduce it to the joys of
neutral.
Chandigarh, the city of graceful
buildings and wide boulevards
designed by the French modernist
Le Corbusier in the Fifties and our
first stop, is famous for architecture
and buttered chicken, the regional
speciality.
We hopped into a tuk-tuk for a
tour, admired the former as tasteful,
then stopped at a family restaurant
packed with locals, and admired
the latter as much more tasty than
modernism.
After the heat, dust and drudgery
of the plains, the next day was a
symphony of curves with the road
rising and the mercury falling, a
peg-scraping blast through forested
foothills and splashing rivers to
Manali, the pleasant alpine town
where the good citizens of Delhi
come in summer to escape the
heat, and in winter to marvel at the
wonder of snow.
I ate delicious river trout at Johnson’s
Café, founded by the progeny of a
player in the Great Game who had
retired here aged 70 and married a
local 19-year-old, as you do.
Over the next few days, the road
played with us, coyly offering us
stretches of perfect tarmac then
whisking its veil away to reveal
miles of ugly roadworks, but at least
standing on the pegs gave me a break
from the seat, which I was now
beginning to dislike more than an
ex-girlfriend who kept popping into
my head uninvited.
Other non-Indian riders felt the same,
so if and when Royal Enfield does
introduce the Himalayan to Europe,
I suggest it comes up with a saddle
suited to more substantial buns.
All around as we rode, rested and
stopped for photos, the mountains
fisted to the sky, either yearning
for heaven or angry that no matter
how much they yearned, they would
remain forever earthbound. Unlike
the eagles who soared above their
peaks, mocking us all with their
effortless grace.
At Sarchu, we camped in a beautiful
deserted valley at 13,000ft, and since
there was nothing to do but drink
rum and watch the sun go down,
French rider François Barrois taught
me useful phrases such as: “Pissing
in a violin”, which is what French
people do when they piss in the wind,
and: “Do you take my bladder for a
lantern?” (Do you take me for a fool?)
Thus educated, I wrapped myself up in
thermals and blankets, tried to sleep in
the thin air, and failed. I was not alone,
as I gathered from the groggy faces of
other riders over breakfast of omelettes
and tea at dawn.
Still, getting on a motorbike and
setting off makes us all feel better,
and we saddled up and rode on, over
passes as high as 17,480ft and past
the cheesy safety signs of the Border
Roads Organisation, with slogans
such as “Hug my curves, but not too
tightly”, “Driving after whisky is always
risky”, and the splendidly antediluvian
“Don’t gossip. Let him drive”.
The many trucks we passed bore
their own slogans: Blow Horn,
Use Dipper at Night, Keep Your
Distance, and once, the bittersweet
Alone but Happy.
Which was more than could be
said for the unluckiest man on the
trip: one of the Indian riders who
soaked his boots at a water crossing,
changed into his shoes and tied the
boots on the back of his bike to dry.
At lunch, discovering one had fallen
off, he threw the other one way as
useless and rode on. Only to find at the
end of the day that the support truck
had picked up the first one.
By now, although the
Himalayan was coughing
and spluttering because
of the altitude, its chassis
and suspension was in its
element, dancing through
mud, gravel, sand, snow and
water crossings as lightly as
a ballerina.
At Leh, I patted its tank sadly
as I said farewell to it, and
took a taxi to the airport.
“What were you doing in the
mountains, sir?” said the driver.
“Riding the new Royal Enfield,” I said.
“Ah, Royal Enfield,” he grinned into
the mirror. “Great motorcycles. Very
powerful.”
I didn’t disillusion him, since given
the choice between the Himalayan
and a Multistrada on the roads I’d
ridden over the past week, I know
which I’d choose, and it’s not Italian.
Or red.
22 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

PACKING FOR A LONG DISTANCE TRIP
WHAT TO TAKE AND WHAT NOT TO TAKE ARE SOME OF THE QUESTIONS THAT
PUZZLE US THE MOST. HERE ARE AUTHOR ZOE CANO’S TOP TIPS...
For most people the thought
of travel and going on that
long awaited two week annual
break means packing the largest
suitcase available until bursting with
new clothes, beachwear and all the
gadgets for keeping sane while lying
on a beach or besides the hotel pool.
But long distance endurance biking,
which probably means being on
the road for more than a week, and
staying in different locations most
nights, is something totally different.
My solo, unescorted journey across
‘the roads less travelled’ of the
American Continent covered almost
10,000 kilometres over two months,
across a multitude of terrains while
experiencing the most eclectic
weather conditions, from storm
fronts with freezing temperatures
to extreme record breaking heat. I
can only go by my own experience,
a lot of which I learned along the
way, but I can say packing is all
about experience on what worked
on previous trips and what I found I
couldn’t live without on this one.
The secret to any sort of
independent journey is preparing
well in advance to pack LIGHT.
You’ll then need to try and reduce
it even more. Lay everything on
the floor – you’ll soon see you’ve
got too much. In reality, if done
properly, you’ll have more than
enough room on the bike for
everything you really need.
What terrain or part of the world
2 are you covering and what are
the expected weather conditions?
Are you intending to camp and/
3 or use basic sleeping facilities or
check into hotels/guest houses?
What type of bike? A big touring
4 bike with loads of potential
luggage capacity, or a smaller bike
with limited packing space?
Is there a pillion passenger with
5 you? And on this last point, just
imagine that; you can then easily
half the space allocated for your own
stuff! Packing’s going to be tight.
HERE’S MY ROUGH 5 STEP
PACKING GUIDE
How much luggage/storage space
1 do you have? For my trip across
America, I took my own magnetized
Triumph tank bag which doubled
up as a ruck sack, two side leather
pannier bags strapped underneath
the seat and a 70kg ‘North Face’
waterproof lockable zip bag which
was strapped down onto the seat
behind me (good back rest!).
Depending on the type of bike, side
panniers can range in all sizes, from
one day trip capacity soft fabric bags
to mammoth metallic boxes for the
large touring bikes.
With my Triumph Bonneville
T100, it was too small to take large
side bags, therefore the reason for
bringing the North Face bag. It
worked out great as I could just
untie and take it off each night I
got to a new place. I also took a
lockable metal mesh bike helmet
bag which I could lock onto the
bike and never worry about the
helmet being stolen.
As I experienced as a solo traveller,
if at any time you’re away from the
bike with no one to keep an eye on it,
you need to make sure your ‘worldly’
belongings will be safe. Make sure
to take or buy sets of locks for the
side bags and luggage bag. Extra
storage for valuable stuff can also be
stored locked under the seat. I kept
emergency cash under the seat just
in case my stuff was stolen.
Identify the essentials. Multiple
2 test packing on deciding what
you really need and can do without
will take a long time. Make a list
for yourself and a list for the bike,
which you feel could be difficult
to source where you’re going, such
as bike repair kit for tyres, chain
spanners, allen keys, US petrol
gauge, spare petrol bottle (essential
for smaller bikes on the long
remote roads).
If nothing else, the top 10 things I’d
definitely take would be an iPhone
complete with a waterproof crash
resistant casing (the American
LifeProof cases are great), the best
helmet you can afford, designed
with air vents and an integrated
sun visor such as Shark helmets,
waterproof durable lockable 70kg
bag, basic tools including tyre
pressure gauge, a maintenance
book for your bike, a pair of light
waterproof trousers, light fingerless
gloves, good road maps (no sat-nav
for me) and definitely some high
protection suntan lotion.
Everything else you should be
able to get along the way. I was
less reliant on maintaining the
bike myself, but made sure I knew
FIVE MAIN CONSIDERATIONS
BEFORE PACKING
Are you travelling solo or with
1 someone else on another bike,
or even travelling with a support
vehicle? A solo traveller will have to
consider for every eventuality and
be self contained, whereas sharing
the trip with someone else means
you can divide up what you take
i.e. tool/repair kit, tent, first aid
stuff. Even better if there’s a support
vehicle as they can take the big
suitcase. In reality, I’ve found bikers
like to be self sufficient and selfcontained.
Exlporing the back roads of America
24 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

the basics, such as tightening the
chain, adding oil, pumping tyres and
definitely having a list of Triumph
dealers across the US in case I
needed help or parts along the way.
Finding room for everything
3 else. Believe it or not, a 70kg bag
actually holds a lot and I ended up
taking more than I probably needed
(maybe a pair of trousers and a dress
too many). Two pairs of jeans –
one for travelling and the other for
leisure time is enough.
Don’t be tempted on more – you
can always buy stuff along the way.
A great tip is to compartmentalise
your storage areas on the bike; the
tank bag I used for things I needed
immediate access to (the day’s maps,
phone, extra layer, water bottles).
The side bags were for the tool kit
and GoPro Hero 3 film equipment,
waterproofs and food/snacks. The
main bag, I divided my clothes
into different coloured waterproof
storage bags so when digging stuff
out I immediately knew where
things were.
The main objective is packing light
enough so you can carry the main
bag without breaking your back. You
may need to walk distances from the
bike to where you’re staying. If it’s
too heavy, you’ve probably got too
many pairs of shoes or souvenirs!
Bike boots, flip-flops and trainers are
probably all you’ll need – and bare
feet after a long day are probably the
best option!
4Think outside the box – what
should I have taken. Again,
knowledge is gained by experience.
The cheapest and what we think are
the most insignificant items turn out
to be the most precious. If travelling
in America, invest in a tyre pressure
gauge. Unlike the UK, the US air
pumps at the gas stations have no
visual indicator in telling you how
much air you’re putting in. You can
buy these gauges (look like pens) at
most stations. I amazingly paid just
$2 for one!
I didn’t realize that with the intense
heat, a light pair of fingerless
gloves (to avoid the backs of
hands getting burnt – which
happened!) would be essential. I
ended up buying a pair of light ski
gloves and cutting the fingers off.
If you wear contact lenses make
sure they’re dailies or you replace
them regularly. My eye injury,
which almost stopped the trip, was
caused by the constant road dirt
and not changing the lenses more
regularly.
Be ruthless. Less is more. I have
5 to admit I didn’t really take
much advice from anyone in what
to take. All my clothes were light,
uncreasable, easy to hand wash
or to drop into a hotel washing
machine and being quick to dry.
You tend to end up wearing the
same clothes so massive variety
isn’t essential. You also end up
taking silly things, such as a pair
of linen trousers and shirt, which
I didn’t even wear the whole trip.
My main regret, which some other
long distance biker advised at the
beginning of the trip in Boston, was
to take a portable bike fuel bottle in
case I wouldn’t reach a gas station
in time. This I’d come to realise
was good advise going through the
Nevada Great Basin desert!
For a comprehensive guide on what
I took on my trips, there’s a full
list in the Appendix of my books
‘Bonneville Go or Bust – on the
roads less travelled’ and ‘Southern
Escapades’, which can be purchased
through my website:
www.ZoeCano.com/adventures

SOLO FEMALE TRAVELLER
JOHANNA CLARK, A TEACHER FROM BRISTOL, EMBARKS ON A JOURNEY
TO A COUNTRY MANY MIGHT FEAR. WHAT SHE FINDS INSTEAD IS A PLACE,
AND ITS PEOPLE, QUITE BEAUTIFUL...
Johanna travelled by Triumph Bonneville
On the 18th May 2016 I set
off on my journey to Iran.
People said I was throwing
away my career as a teacher, ‘Why
don’t you buy a house!’ But I knew I
wanted to travel and see Iran.
Growing up on the Isle of Man I’ve
always been surrounded by the
culture of biking, though I don’t
come from a family of bikers. In fact
my family were very much against
the idea, saying it’s dangerous and
that I shouldn’t be doing it.
It was only during my time teaching
English in Indonesia that I finally
learned to ride one. Over there it’s
a case of learn to ride a bike or you
can’t get around anywhere. We would
ride down to Bali and back and a bike
gave me so much freedom.
Back in the UK I did a trip around
France before building up to the
big one; a four month tour down
through Europe, the Balkans,
Turkey and into Iran, a place I’d
always been fascinated by and with
that I set off.
I went on the Bonneville because
that’s the bike I had and the bike
I liked riding. I was carrying too
much stuff, shedding so much of it
as I passed through Europe. I had
a tent, sleeping bag, spares I didn’t
need, tools I never used; rope,
tubing to siphon petrol, a tarpaulin.
Everyone tells you take this stuff,
then you don’t use it.
I got to Turkey and realised I was so
inappropriately dressed, discovering
in the more conservative areas that
I really should cover my hair. My
passage through Turkey was around
the time of the coup, meaning that
I was stopped at every checkpoint,
which surprised me as I was clearly
a tourist. The advice was not to go
within 10 miles of the Syrian border.
A car bomb went off in the town I
was staying in, and I was told for my
safety that I had to leave and head
north. From there I went to Iran
and everything was fine.
I did get mistaken for an Iranian
several times, though equally
on occasion I did get stopped by
the religious police and told that
I was incorrectly dressed. One
policeman was really apologetic;
‘Even though you are a tourist
you still need to do it.’ He got a
woman from a shop to help me tie
my headscarf correctly. But it’s a
fascinating country.
They don’t have a massive tourist
industry, nor any foreign TV
channels, and the internet is heavily
censored. Therefore they don’t
have much influence from the
outside world. When they do meet
someone new they really want to
know everything about you and how
Iran is perceived around the world.
‘Why doesn’t the west want Iran to
have nuclear power?’ They would
ask. The go-to answer I gave was; ‘I
don’t know anything about politics,’
because they do have secret police,
but they’re generally easy to spot.
In Tehran, I saw women being
stopped by the religious police for
not being properly dressed, but the
women would argue back. They
certainly weren’t as submissive as
you might think.
The cities are more westernised
than I was expecting them to be.
In the countryside it’s a lot more
conservative and in the Kurdish
areas it’s obvious that gender
relationships are much more
traditional, where women stay at
26 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

Architecture on the way through to Iran
home and men are in control.
It is illegal for a women to ride a
motorbike in Iran, with foreign
women excluded. Many locals don’t
know this and would warn me about
riding a bike. Once I had someone
tell me, having found out I don’t have
children, that it’s because I ride a
motorbike and it’s made me infertile!
“IT IS ILLEGAL
FOR A WOMAN
TO RIDE A MOTOR-
BIKE IN IRAN”
I did really like Iran. It was my
favourite country of the lot. Mainly
because it was so different from
anywhere else. I also really liked
Armenia and Georgia as well. The
scenery there is amazing. Iran is
a massive country and there’s not
always a lot of variety – you can be
riding across a desert for days - but
you get to Armenia, which is really
tiny, and there’s so much diversity.
It is a lot poorer than I thought it
would be, poorer than Iran. But the
people were really friendly and the
food is incredible. Lots of fish, giant
tortellinis., and cheese. They really
like their cheese!
I was wild camping most of the
time. My method is that if no one
knows you’re there then you’re safer.
I also don’t set up until after sunset
to make sure I haven’t been seen by
anyone. Or if I can’t find anywhere
I’ll ask in a village or at a farm. Often
they’ll let you stay in their house
and the whole village then turns up
to speak to you. I thought it would
be a lot easier to wild camp than it
was, but there are so many people
everywhere.
In a sense the trip was easy. I
thought it would be a lot harder
than it was. Aside from the political
incidents in Turkey, I didn’t really
have any problems. I think when
I came back, when I told people, I
got a lot more credit than what was
due. People think it’s difficult, but it’s
actually really easy.
When you haven’t done it it’s easy
to imagine problems. You can’t
imagine the solution because you’re
not there to see what the solution is.
So people think ‘Oh I can never do
that because of xyz.’ But that’s only
because you can’t imagine the good
things, only the bad.
I don’t think you are more vulnerable
as a women. People tend to think
you’re incapable of causing any
harm so don’t see you as a threat.
In Iran it was a case of wondering,
‘Why is your husband letting you do
this?’ They didn’t understand it, and
therefore sometimes thought you
had questionable morals. But if you
told them you were going somewhere
and it was a really long way and you
needed their help to get there then
they would understand and help. My
next trip is even further, to Malaysia,
leaving in March. Wish me luck.
PLANNING A TRIP TO IRAN
A trip into Iran is rewarding but never easy. Visas can be a pain to get hold
of, requiring an authorisation number from a travel agent to apply for a
visa, with the process especially hard for British, American and Canadian
passport holders (born out of tensions, some of which go back to the
previous centuries). If you’re from one of those countries you now need an
official government guide to accompany you at a cost of around £140 per day.
This is possibly to restrict movement once inside the country, with similar
requirements in place when crossing through Myanmar, Thailand and China,
though in those countries the guiding fee applies to all nationalities, with
costs similar to those for Iran.
Travelling on an Irish passport, Johanna didn’t require the guiding service,
but did need a Carnet de Passage. These are issued in the UK by an
organisation found here: www.carseurope.net. It’s a complicated process to
get to the cost of a Carnet - dependant as it is on the value of the bike - but for
a £1000 machine to pass through Iran the Carnet cost would be £700, with
£250 of that refundable when you return to the UK. There are ways around
it with temporary import licences, either at the border or through a chap
named Hussain at Overland to Iran: overlandtoiran@gmail.com
As stated; not an easy country to access by bike, but one that’s well worth it.

BUILDING AN ADVENTURE BIKE
IT’S HARD TO IMAGINE THE PROCESS OF BUILDING A BIKE THESE DAYS.
HERE WE SPEAK TO CHRISTOFER RATCLIFFE, LEAD DESIGNER OF THE CCM GP450
ADVENTURE, ABOUT THE DESIGN AND BUILD PROCESS OF THAT BIKE...
Where
did
the
idea for the
GP450 begin?
It was born out
of a conversation
at CCM, back in
2010, about how
the rising boom in off-road capable
adventure bikes was full of road
based travel bikes that had been
adapted to tackle the rough stuff.
We thought, wouldn’t it be great if
we could turn a bike full of natural
off-road DNA into a travel bike.
How did you get involved with the
project and what were you doing
before this?
I was working not too far away,
designing large industrial machines
used for coating oil and gas
pipelines. I was absolutely loving it,
but then happened to come across
an ad for a motorcycle Design
Engineer role around the corner
from my house. I immediately
picked up the phone and shortly
after went to meet Austin at the
factory. Luckily I had a bit of a
background in Automotive design
from University and a short spell
as a development engineer at
TVR, so Austin gave me a chance.
CCM were very old school in their
approach to designing bikes, so I
think I just came at the right time
and could operate the new fangled
PC and CAD system!
For the first 6 months or so I was
working with the MX race team,
trying to quickly catch up on the
development and testing CCM had
done on the race bikes and bonded
chassis.
What were the particular
challenges in designing a bike of
this nature?
When we sat down and made a
list of dream specifications and
geometry for the bike we realised
why it hadn’t been done before.
Everything you want on a nimble
off-road bike was the total opposite
of what you want on a comfortable
long range travel bike.
Trying to create a low seat height
combined with MX style ground
clearance whilst trying to keep a
comfortable all-day riding position
was tricky to say the least.
Adding 20-litres of fuel on the
bike was difficult. We didn’t
want to compromise the narrow
standing off-road position or
compromise the long seat to slide
up to shift weight over the front or
compromise the weight distribution
of the bike. Affecting any one of
these would have taken away from
the off-road capabilities. And
believe me, the whole Clews family
are off-road perfectionists so would
not compromise one bit on how the
bike performed in the dirt.
“STARTING FROM
THE GROUND UP
WAS A BREATH OF
FRESH AIR”
After a few years of testing and
changes we finally settled on a set
up that felt as stable as a 600cc road
bike on the road, but was as easy
as a 250cc enduro on really tough
off-road.
Where do you even begin in the
process of designing a new bike
from the ground up?
Starting from the ground up with
a blank sheet was really a breath
of fresh air. Once we had set the
geometry and essential spec of
the bike we set to designing the
bike on the screen up to a point
where we were happy to produce
a CNC billet aluminium chassis
to create a rolling test mule. The
bonded ali chassis really is the
secret of the GP450 as it allows
us to control the vibration, stress
and weight distribution of the bike
with much higher accuracy than
a welded frame as it is treated as
a solid block of material with no
unquantifiable stress points around
weld points.
The bike has been designed for
function far above all else. If it
looks purposeful and utilitarian it’s
just because it is rather than being
styled to look that way.
Deciphering the mountain of
European type approval documents
and regulations is enough to send
anyone to sleep. The time and
expense of gaining these type
approvals is by far and away the
most difficult part of getting a new
bike to market.
Specifically, what are the
challenges facing a small volume
manufacturer such as CCM?
We get the expected troubles of a
small scale manufacture. When
we are developing, or specifying
equipment such as suspension,
brakes exhaust etc it is pot luck
to whether the supplier is dealing
with a large development project
or production run for a bigger
manufacturer. It can get frustrating
being pushed down the queue as
it has a much bigger impact on a
small company like CCM.
We do love the David and Goliath
battle and it really feeds us all to work
harder and try to create something
better than what’s already out there.
I guess that’s the competitive racing
nature coming through.
The flip side of being a small family
orientated manufacturer is that we
have a great relationship with every
CCM owner we have met. Ask any
of them and I’m sure they will tell
you the same. In the early days of
the GP450 we must have had 100
people test riding the prototypes
and pre-production bikes. Each
test rider offered different opinions
based on how they would use the
bike, what experiences they had
when out on previous adventures
and made some suggestions on
design features or options. The
GP450 was really moulded by these
people in the early days.
When the design was frozen while
we were going through the Type
approval process, any suggestions
then began to grow into the huge
range of after-market options we
have now. The GP450 really felt like
a bike of the people.
In terms of the engine, how
difficult is it for a small volume
manufacturer to source an engine
and how crucial was engine choice
in the GP450?
CCM have good relationships for
many years with most manufacturers
of motorcycles and engines. The
difficult part is choosing the right
engine to ideally suit our very
specific requirements. The BMW
Chris’s own bike, with a few tweaks
28 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

Hand built in Bolton
Engine from a BMW G450X
Aluminium Bond-Lite frame
WP suspension on RS model

450 was very lightweight, very
under stressed when not ripping
round a motocross track at full
throttle. The concentric swingarm
and sprocket pivot might not have
been ideally suited to motocross, but
potentially had great advantages for
a lightweight adventure bike with
better throttle control, better weight
distribution under acceleration and
hugely increased chain life. During
the development stages we worked
closely with BMW to ensure we
could deliver the 5000 mile service
intervals.
We still did a lot of work on the
ECU and power delivery to smooth
out the low end torque delivery and
produce a ride that was still very
lively, but not quite up-on-the-front
wheel every time the throttle is
opened. Although, if anyone knows
our mad ex TT racer/sales guy
Darren Soothill you might think it
doesn’t even need a front wheel!
Lightness was a crucial factor
of the bike; how does that
requirement impact on the choice
of materials, components and
technologies? Despite our different
motorcycling backgrounds amongst
all the CCM team there is one
common theme that everybody
always agrees on, and that is light
is right. We are all passionate about
making lightweight bikes and I am
very passionate about using new
technologies and materials that
enable us to achieve the impossible.
Everything from the bonded forged
aluminium chassis to the 1mm thick
polymer linkage bearings; every
component was considered when
striving to save weight.
Essentially, how did you make it
so light?
If a component doesn’t have at least
two functions it doesn’t go on the
bike.
And of the final product; what
does the GP450 offer that no other
manufacturer currently does?
What GP450 owners say the most
to us is they love that it is a dream
off-road, lightweight and puts a huge
smile on your face every time you
ride it. I think these the things that
describe most CCMs.
For me (and I may be slightly biased
because I’ve finally built myself one)
the GP450 is the best all round,
everyday, go absolutely anywhere
bike there is. I was an off-road
novice and accident waiting to
happen, but riding the GP450 is so
easy to get on with and just makes
me feel like a hero on the trails or
the tarmac.
What are you most proud of in the
bike?
This is a tricky one. In terms of
physical parts of the bike, I am
very proud of the chassis. But the
best feeling is seeing a GP450 out
on the road or trails in its natural
habitat with someone having a
cracking time. That still gives me
goosebumps!
What are the challenges going
forward in terms of Euro 4 and
engine availability, and what can
we expect on the horizon?
The major changes with Euro 4
are emissions and ABS brakes. We
are able to register new GP450s
in limited numbers during 2017,
but after that we need to comply
Equipped for travel
with Euro 4. So at this stage we are
working behind the scenes on the
best way to update the GP450.
Alongside that we have produced
a UK only limited edition bike, the
Spitfire, which will only go through
MSVA tests, as the time and expense
to go through other full scale type
approvals for a limited run bike
would mean it would probably never
become available, which would be a
great shame. The Spitfire uses a single
cylinder Euro 4 capable 600cc engine
which is well proven. Having the 600
engine in our artillery is obviously a
nice thing to have for future model
considerations. Watch this space.
GUIDED TOURS OF AFRICA
Prices starting from £1495 inclusive of accommodation and bike hire
For more information visit www.kaapstadmat.com
Travel with experienced guide
and safari ranger Alex Jackson,
with almost twenty years
experience travelling Africa
by motorcylce
30 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

Looking for Adventure?
Yamaha Off-Road Experience
Run by Geraint Jones an ex British Enduro
Champion, based in the beautiful countryside
around Llanidloes in Mid Wales, The Yamaha
Off-Road Experience is an unforgettable day
out for new and experienced adventure bike
riders!
In the morning a team of highly experienced
instructors will kit you out with your riding
gear and a Yamaha off road bike & introduce
you to the principles of off road riding. Then
you will head off into the thousands of acres
of surrounding countryside for approximately
5 hours riding on a variety of terrain including
hills, river crossings, forest tracks and lots of
mud!
www.yamaha-offroad-experience.co.uk Tel 01686 413324
Untitled-1 1
10/02/2017 5:15:24 PM

BUDGET TRAVEL BIKES TO CONSIDER
AN OLDER BIKE YOU CAN AFFORD, RATHER THAN A NEW ONE ON FINANCE
OR PCP IS SOMETIMES THE BEST RECIPE FOR ADVENTURE. HERE ARE A FEW
BIKES, FROM ALL CATEGORIES, THAT WILL UNDOUBTEDLY TAKE YOU FAR
HONDA DEAUVILLE
Some may laugh, but this is a great
all-round touring bike that has the
benefit of built in panniers, shaftdrive
so you don’t have a chain
to maintain, a decent screen for
weather protection and a simple
twin-cylinder engine that shouldn’t
give you any troubles. You can pick
up early examples of the 650cc model
for around £1500 and pay a little bit
more for the 700cc model. Obviously,
it’s not going to be the best bike for
the trails, but if you just want a bike
that will go and stop and allow you to
enjoy the bits inbetween then don’t
pass over the Deauville.
SUZUKI V-STROM
Both in 650 and 1000cc forms the
underrated V-Strom is a bike that’s
been proven to perform well in most
conditions, has great after-market
support and an owners community
that is second to none. People swear
by their V-Stroms and it’s easy to see
why. The 650 is relatively light and
manageable. It’s a non intimidating
bike, which is what you want when
venturing further away from home.
It’s also economical and plenty
comfortable. The 1000 offers a lot
more punch and currently great
value for money, especially the first
generation; prices as low as £2000.
HONDA TRANSALP
The Transalp has been around
in various guises for quite some
time now and for anyone wanting
simple, reliable technology, an easy
bike to live with and an active and
supportive community then it’s hard
to look any further than the Transalp.
Like the Deauville it originally came
in 650 then 700cc, with the latter
bikes still commanding decent
money. Look hard though and you’ll
find an early one for £1500, with
prices, like much of these dependable
trail bikes, slowly beginning to rise;
a reflection perhaps that they don’t
make them like they used to.
BMW F650 GS
When you follow the forums of
people travelling long distances on
bikes you can bet that quite a few
will have chosen the single-cylinder
BMW from the late nineties, early
2000s. The technology is simple, the
bike sturdy and well engineered. They
are a bit top heavy and despite the
looks not the most off-road friendly
bikes, but they will slog out the
miles, with good comfort, excellent
economy and it seems to be the bike
that many buy and lower, making
them suitable for those short in the
leg. Hunt around and you can pick
up a good one for £1700. Bargain.
32 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

Suzuki DRZ400
Another stalwart of the overland
scene, the 400 and the 350cc that
went before it are the go to bike for
those looking for reliability and
capability. A tonne of after-market
parts are available for the bike, with
comfier seats, bigger fuel tanks,
screens and panniers in abundance.
Simple mechanics makes travelling
cheap. They’re robust and can cope
pretty well with motorway miles.
Their popularity is currently reflected
in their rising prices, with good
ones fetching upwards of £2500. It’s
a shame emission regulations killed
them off. We’d love a replacement.
HONDA CRF 250L
A more modern and less powered
alternative to the DRZ above, the
little CRF is the go-to donkey in the
trail and adventure world. Not a lot
of power, and some criticise them
for being too heavy, but this and
the similar Kawasaki KLX250 are
the bikes that people buy as second
bikes and end up riding them the
most. They’re robust and reliable
to boot, Steph Jeavsons currently
riding around the world on one.
Parts are cheap and plentiful and
even brand the new the bikes are
just a little over £4000. A great tool
for a multitude of purposes.
SUZUKI BURGMAN
This could be any one of the super
scooters on the market at the
minute, a style of bike that many
might dismiss as not being capable
or cool enough to consider. But the
benefit is their manageability and
above all their practicality. Underseat
storage, cubby holes, a good
screen, comfortable seat and usually
built in charging points are what
all adventure bikes should come
with. You also find them popular
with people who can’t manage the
tall and heavy bikes anymore and
see the super-scooters as a way of
keeping on riding.
SUZUKI VANVAN
In either 125cc or the recently
launched 200cc model, the little
VanVan is something of a hidden
gem. People overlook them, but
as a bike that captures the essence
of adventure and getting out there
there’s not much better. Light, easy
to manage, easy to ride and also
incredibly capable in the dirt, the
fat tyred VanVan is a cheap bike
that opens up endless possibilities
for L-plate riders or equally anyone
who just wants to have fun on two
wheels. People have ridden them
to Mongolia and back and done so
smiling. Great bikes.
YAMAHA TDM 850/900
Another overlooked bike except
for those who’ve owned and ridden
them and appreciated their simple
ability to cover distances in a no
fuss, no frills way. The original 850
was down in price as low as £1200 in
recent years, whilst the updated later
model 900cc can be found for around
£2000. A lovely twin cylinder engine,
decent handling and a comfortable
upright riding position means that
the TDM will go anywhere and do
just as much as a new bike, leaving
you plenty left over to actually pay
for the trip and enjoy it. Bikes like
these are the essence of adventure.

NEW BIKES TO CONSIDER
IF YOU’RE AFTER A NEW BIKE THEN THERE’S NEVER BEEN A BETTER MIX OF
MACHINERY ON THE MARKET, WITH SOMETHING TO SUIT EVERY
TASTE AND BUDGET. HERE ARE JUST A FEW...
KTM 1090 ADVENTURE R
This could be the bike to set the cat
amongst the pigeons in the large
capacity adventure category. A
healthy amount of power (125bhp),
relatively low weight (207kg) and
lots of solid standard equipment and
a competitive price of £12,149.
The benefits of a bike like this is
that it can churn out the motorway
miles as well as do some trails at the
other end and therefore incredible
versatile. They can also be a handful
off-road and it’s always advised to
get some good training in before
venturing too far off the beaten track
on something like this.
ROYAL ENFIELD
HIMALAYAN
A new engine, chassis and chapter
for the Indian built Royal Enfield,
with this versatile all-purpose bike,
that whilst far from fast, should
hopefully be sturdy and dependable
enough to take you on long or short
endeavours. Price is said to be less
than £5000 when it makes it to UK
shores, with work needing to be done
to make it Euro 4 compliant (ABS,
fuel injection etc). If Royal Enfield
gets this bike right then it could be
the go to bike for people wanting
rugged dependability with money left
over for the trip itself.
TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE
As proven by Zoe Cano and
Johanna Clark with their long
distance trips in this issue, the
Bonneville is a great bike to go
exploring on. It’s not as imposing as
some of the others and its relaxed
riding style is often a perfect fit
to slowing down the pace of a
long distance trip. Panniers and
other luggage options can easily
be fitted and wherever you are
in the world you’re likely to get
a warm reception on one. The
Scrambler version adds a bit of
off-road character but not quite the
capabilities to match.
KAWASAKI VERSYS 300
Not quite the Euro 4 compliant KLR
650 many of us were hoping for, but
a bike that should have wide appeal
amongst those looking to downsize,
or equally up-size, depending where
they are in their riding careers. The
300cc engine should have plenty of
poke for cruising with, whilst a nice
upright riding position and spoked
wheels should make the mini Versys
a perfect pick for leisurely long
range riding, or even the one tank
challenge as Tim Duncan subscribes
a few pages on. At £5149 it should
challenge the BMW GS310 and
forthcoming Suzuki V-Strom 250.
34 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

BMW 310 GS
The GS range and image has been
a huge success for BMW, with
this new 310 variant hoping to
appeal to a new audience; those
in the emerging markets of India
and the Far East, as well as those
wanting something lighter and more
manageable, and affordable, here
in the UK. On appearances suited
more to tarmac than rough terrain,
but with companies such as Rally
Raid already looking to equip it
with uprated suspension and spoked
wheels this could be the foundation
for a new craze in motorcycle travel;
low, light, cheap, frugal... accessible.
HARLEY STREET 750
People travel on anything; a Harley
Davidson is no exception and when
you look at the price of the Street 750
(£5,995) you can’t help but wonder
how much fun it would be taking
off on a mini Harley and not having
the fear of dropping it or devaluing
it as you might one from higher up
in the range. For the money you
get a modern liquid-cooled V-twin
engine and a relatively manageable
weight of 223 kilos, as well as a huge
catalogue of upgrades. Granted,
you might not want to go around
the world on it, but somehow that’s
missing the point.
DUCATI DESERT SLED
The sign of a good bike is one that
makes you want to jump on it and
ride. It might not be the bike other
people recommend or the one that’s
most practical, but if it looks, and
hopefully rides, the part, then what
does it matter.? The Desert Sled
certainly looks part and epitomises
the current trend for the scrambler
style of bike. Based on the standard
Ducati Scrambler, the Desert Sled
gets uprated suspension, larger
diameter spoked wheels and a hefty
price tag of £9395. It’s not cheap, and
it might be tricky carrying luggage,
but where there’s a will there’s a way.
YAMAHA SCR950
Another bike that blends retro styled
looks with modern technology, with
a sprinkling of off-road pretensions
for good measure. In fairness, it’s
probably going to be rubbish in
the dirt but that doesn’t matter for
the way it looks, with its retro 70s
styling. The engine is from the beltdriven
XV cruiser and is dependable
as they come. The rest of the tech
is basic, which is as much as you
want for a reliable means of twowheeled
exploration, and at £8499
you’re getting a lot of metal for your
money. The kind of bike you can
imagine riding across America on.
SWM 650 SUPER DUAL
This is an interesting one and could
be very good. It’s an Italian made
bike, backed by Chinese money,
with the engine based on the
older Husqvarna 610, and coming
equipped straight out of the crate
with panniers, crash bars, sump
guard and everything else you’d
need to take off into the distance.
It’s a bike that very few, if any, of
the mainstream manufacturers are
making anymore. The price is also
keen at £7599, and if the SWM
proves to be as good as it’s already
promising then we could be looking
at the new bike to have.

ANATOMY OF A TRAVEL BIKE
ENGINE SIZE
It always seems the biggest decision
when buying or choosing a bike
for a trip is the size of the engine.
As we’ve seen many times, you can
travel on a big engined bike and
equally as far on a small engined
bike. The benefit of a big engine
is that you can generally get to
where you’re going without much
strain. This is especially the case
if you’re doing a lot of motorway
miles, where a large capacity bike
- anything over 800cc for the sake
of this discussion - can cover it
with greater ease. A large capacity
bike is also generally physically
bigger, and so has more room to get
comfortable and move around on.
The seat may be more cosseting and
in terms of taking a pillion then a
bike with big lungs can definitely
be a benefit. Consider that a big
bike might be more thirsty but
not necessarily worked as hard as
a smaller bike, so might be more
robust in the long run.
At the other end of the spectrum the
smaller bikes; becoming increasingly
en vogue due to being lighter, less
daunting and able to lead you down
different paths than a big bike. Some
swear by a 250cc, citing it as the best
of both worlds, whilst others put
their preference somewhere around
the 600c class, where power, weight
and comfort all strike a nice balance.
Ultimately it depends on your own
preference, as well as your age,
fitness miles to cover, type of riding
you enjoy and budget, though oddly
it can be the smaller cc bikes that are
creeping up in price.
WEIGHT
Many talk of weight as being
a deciding factor, especially if
travelling some of your distance offroad.
The large capacity adventure
machines all weigh in the region of
250 kilos, even more fully loaded.
Once on the move they hide their
weight well. Drop them or have to
lug them around and the weight
soon reappears. Weight can be
intimidating. If the bike is the boss
of you then consider a smaller
bike. Pay attention not just to the
payload weight of a bike but also
where a bike carries its weight. A
top heavy bike is going to be more
daunting than one that carries its
weight low down. At the other end
of the spectrum are the 125-250cc
trail bikes weighing in the region
of 100-130 kilos. The difference is
night and day. For the older rider,
those shorter in the leg and less
physically strong then this could be
a good way to go. On a trip, the last
thing you want is to be intimidated
by your bike.
TYRE/WHEEL SIZE
People generally choose larger
front wheels for off-road work;
Three Mittens, Monument Valley, Utah, USA
36 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

usually 21-inch. I find 19-inch the
best compromise for tarmac and
dirt. Consider sizing as one of the
biggest issues with taking a bike
far away from home. Can you get
a replacement easy; what mileage
will you get out them? Consider the
compromise between longevity and
performance as longevity is often
the most important.
LUGGAGE CAPACITY
A complex debate as you generally
find you pack to the amount of
luggage you have available. People
do tend to overload. They buy the
biggest panniers and top box they
can find and proceed to fill them.
Think smaller. Think smart. Living
on a bike, no matter for how long,
is an art. But the better at it you are
the happier you’ll be. Hard luggage
is good for keeping organised and
perfect for tarmac touring. Many
bikes now come with mounting
brackets, even sport and naked
bikes. The products of the aftermarket
providers are generally
better/stronger than OEM items.
Soft luggage is preferred for any
kind of off-road riding; less liable
to trap or break legs in the event of
a fall. Kriega do some fine compact
tail packs and soft panniers, as do
more mainstream providers such as
Oxford. Sometimes, just a tank bag
and roll bag will do.
COST
How much you spend on a bike is
down to you, but common thinking
is that if you’re stepping out of
your comfort zone on a bike then
sometimes it’s best done on one
that’s bought and paid for. Bikes
on finance and increasingly PCP
are appealing, but many policies
employ mileage and condition
restrictions that aren’t always
conducive to care free adventuring
on a bike. This is why some still
prefer older, cheaper machines that
can be used with impunity. This is
more often than not the case with
journeys into distant far off lands,
where the bike is seldom insured
and you needing to be able to
financially stomach the total loss
of the bike. Some countries such as
Russia sell insurance at the border
but it’s unlikely to be the quality
cover you were hoping for. It’s why
many overland travellers still use
old and cheap bikes, that are not
only easily fixed, but also reduce
the costs of documents such as the
Carnet de Passage, which you need
for places in Asia, Australia, NZ
and parts of Africa. It’s not that a
brand new GS couldn’t go around
the world, it’s just that you’d have to
be prepared to lose the full cost of
the bike if something went wrong.
FUEL RANGE
Bruce Smart and several others have
proven that a tank range of circa
150 miles is ample for any big trip.
A greater range can make life less
stressful, but your plans shouldn’t
be impeded by the range of the bike
you already own. Consider packing a
jerry can or a compact fuel cell, some
of which are collapsible when not in
use. Fuel stations in most parts of the
world are plentiful. On more remote
roads the rules of the road mean that
people will stop to help. Where there
is a road, you can guarantee there will
be fuel somewhere.
TECHNOLOGY
Bikes are becoming more complex,
and at the same time generally
more reliable. Certainly for touring
and travelling in familiar or not
so far off lands then technology
can in the most part add to our
enjoyment; electronic suspension,
cruise control, tyre pressure sensors,
ride by wire throttles and CANBus
wiring systems. Further afield such
things can be seen as a liability.
Electronic failure in parts of the
world where that bike’s not available
has the potential to end the trip.
Once again, a reason why many
favour older, simpler machines. But
ultimately, there is no right or wrong
answer. Just be prepared as best you
can and accept that a breakdown on
any bike is pain in the backside.
DO YOU LIKE IT?
Last but not least; the main thing is
that you enjoy the bike that you ride.
It doesn’t matter if it’s best in class
or your mates say you should get
one. If it’s not for you and doesn’t get
you excited then look for something
else. There is no right bike, as people
featured in this issue can testify. For
some that’s a sportsbike, others a
cruiser, moped or trail bike. And at
the end of the day, it’s the rider who
makes it an adventure bike, not the
bike itself.
WANT TO RIDE YOUR OWN BIKE ACROSS
AMERICA? - JOIN IN.
Motorcycle shipping experts James Cargo are
offering a package price on sea freighting your
own motorcycle to and from the states, the
bike disembarking in New York and returning
from Los Angeles approximately 4 weeks later;
providing a true coast to coast adventure. It
also includes customs clearance at both ends,
removing much of the hassle usually associated
with the shipping of a motorcycle. Cost for the
return journey is £1499, with other costs being
your flight, bike insurance at approximately
£400 and travelling expenses, with it reasonable
to budget $100 a day, less or more depending
on spending habits. All bikes will go and return
in a single container, with a date for departure
currently set for the 4th September 2017. Only
ten places in the container so if you’re interested
drop a message to Darryl@jamescargo.com.
Possibly also chance to tag along as part of an
assisted crossing for those interested.

THE BIKE THAT TOURATECH BUILT
THEY’RE BEST KNOWN FOR THEIR AFTERMARKET ACCESSORIES, BUT
WHEN THE GERMAN BASED COMPANY PUT THEIR EFFORTS INTO BUILDING
A BIKE, THEY DON’T DO IT HALVES!
fibre reinforced plastic (CFRP).
Based on the current model
BMW R1200 GS, the
Rambler is an attempt by
Touratech to bring back the basic
ingredients that made the GS
badge the insurmountable force
it was when launched back in the
eighties; and that is agility.
The biggest change is to the front
forks. Gone is the telelever setup
of the standard bike, replaced by
the upside down forks from the
F800GS Adventure. To guarantee
more capability in the dirt, there’s
also a specially built 21-inch front
wheel replacing the 19-inch of
the standard bike, complete with
single disc ABS brakes.
The frame has also been
reinforced for harder off-road use,
with original fairing ditched to
make way for a custom airbox and
a new fairing made from carbon
Behind the fairing is a selfsupporting,
16.2 litre aluminium
tank, which also forms the
subframe. The slimmer enduro
style seat no longer requires a base
plate and is therefore extremely
light. The total weight savings of the
Scrambler over a regular GS is an
impressive 50 kilos, with a claimed
wet weight of just 199 kilos.
The transformation to the way
the bike rides with this weight
saving should be significant.
With less weight comes increased
manoeuvrability and control
in rough terrain. At that sort of
weight it’s a bike you wouldn’t fear
riding solo along the trails and in
many ways represents a spiritual
successor to the much lauded HP2.
Two prototypes have been built
and tested. The only hope is that
BMW and Touratech somehow put
the bike into production so that
we can all have a go. Obviously it
wouldn’t be cheap, but it’s good to
see a company finally focusing on
weight reduction. Much needed.
Both prototypes have been ridden in anger
38 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

More than just for the show; the Rambler in action

QUICK TIPS ON TRAVELLING EUROPE
EDITOR OF RIDE MAGAZINE, SIMON WEIR, GIVES HIS BRIEF SIX TIPS FOR
TRAVELLING THROUGH EUROPE...
Check your paperwork
1
Don’t leave home without your
passport, bike insurance and
logbook (ideally a photocopy of each
as well as the originals), breakdown
insurance and the addresses and
phone numbers of any hotels you’ve
booked.
Got a map?
2
If not, get one – and at a scale
that shows enough detail to be
useful. Yes, even if you have a sat
nav. A map will always be your
friend and never runs out of battery,
reception or sense.
Sort your money out early
3
Take some cash. Get a credit
card that won’t charge you for
transactions overseas (Nationwide is
good).
Don’t forget your phone charger
4
Or your sunglasses. Or your phone.
Make sure you’ve set it up so you can
make calls in Europe. And turn the
data-roaming off.
Know the local limits
5
If you can’t change your clocks to
read in kph (or your sat nav) make
sure you know what mph speed you
should be doing when the limit’s 30,
50, 80, 90, 110, 120 or 130kph.
6 Relax
It’s really not stressful. It’s meant
to be a holiday. Take it easy, soak up
the sights and enjoy it.
Not all roads are black
Some of the best roads
in the UK are green
Tynehead, Cumbria
Come say hello at Stand 2D62, Hall 2 and find
out how the TRF can help you discover adventure
riding on your doorstep
www.TRF.org.uk
40 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

Advert_280x340.qxp_Layout 1 27/10/2016 16:40 Page 1
Spectacular
tours of Scotland
Guided Tour: 24 June-30 June 2017
The Scottish Highlands, steeped in history,
is one of the last unspoilt regions of Europe.
Breathtaking scenery, magnificent castles,
amazing wildlife and open roads make this
a motorcyclist’s dream.
Highland Tour
7 days / 6 nights
Our 7-day Highland tour starts and ends in Edinburgh, the historic and beautiful
capital of Scotland. The route takes us on many winding scenic roads to the
most spectacular parts of Scotland: Speyside with its many distilleries and the
wild Cairngorm mountains; the north west with its ever-changing seascapes, the
most remote part of Scotland and then down the west coast to the magical Isle of
Skye before returning via Argyll to Edinburgh.
Highlights include:
> Six days’ riding on open motorcycle
roads
> Crossing the unique Glenelg
Ferry to Skye
> Visiting the Talisker Distillery on Skye
> Traversing the incredible Pass of the
Cattle (Bealach na Bà in Gaelic)
> The castles on Skye, at Eilean Donan
and in Inveraray
> Visiting Loch Ness and Castle Urquhart
> Six nights’ accommodation with
breakfast each morning in some
of our favourite hotels.
> Guided Tours: first night in Edinburgh
and five nights in the Scottish
Highlands. Dinner is included each
night. Unguided Tours: Six nights in
the Scottish Highlands. Dinner is
included on four nights. Add extra
nights in Edinburgh for £140 per night
per room (b&b).
Exclusions: The tour does not include motorcycle rental, fuel, ferries, lunches or
entrance to any venues or attractions. All accommodation is subject to availability.
Guided Tour
24 June - 30 June 2017
Unguided Tours
Dates to suit you
Rider
Rider + Pillion
Sharing (double or twin room)
£1,649 £949
£2,349 £1,349
Notes: Rider price is for a room with single occupancy. Rider + Pillion price is for both people sharing
a room, not per person.
To book or find out more,
please email
enquiries@rentamotorcycle.co.uk
or call +44 131 603 4466
www.rentamotorcycle.co.uk

FILMING YOUR OWN ADVENTURE
THOMAS WOODROW IS AN EXPERIENCED FILM MAKER AND PRODUCER
OF ADVENTURE BIKE TV. HERE HE SHARES HIS TOP TIPS ON FILMING YOUR
OWN MOTORCYCLE ADVENTURE...
1Commit yourself to making a
film. This might sound strange,
but if you are going to make a
film of your adventure, commit to
that; make a conscious decision
to film. Making a film of any
adventure is hard work, you will
get up early to make sure you are
packed before the others so you
can film them. You will go to bed
after everyone else so you can
backup and save all your footage.
You will be standing 6ft back
watching people though a small
screen while everyone else meets
the locals and when things go
wrong, you won’t be helping, you
will be filming.
Many people give up half way
because it is too much work, and
even more, only film when they
feel they have the time. Truth
be told, the reason you have the
time is normally because nothing
interesting is actually happening.
2Tell a story.
If you really want to engage
your audience you need to tell a
story, in the same way a book has
a start, middle and end. There are
so many films out there now with
stunning visuals and a ‘thumpin’
music track, but audiences will
get tired very quickly if there is
no story.
The key is to try and entice your
audience into wanting to see
more. There are many ways to do
this and often it’s not until most
of the adventure is completed
that you might know what the
story is. As the trip progresses
think first about your characters;
these could be your traveling
companions, people you meet. It
could even be your motorcycle.
Then consider what each of
the characters has experienced
during the trip.
For example, Mr Smith may
have been very excited for the
adventure, but started to find it
harder then expected, considered
giving up but others push him
to continue and he finishes,
exhausted but elated. There is
a story, a human interest story.
Combine this with other peoples
stories or with a temperamental
bike or a country that changes as
you ride thought and you have a
story.
Learn the rule of thirds.
3 There are many different rules
to follow when filming and if
you really know what you are
doing you can even brake these
rules with stunning effects, but
learning the simple rule of thirds
will make the visual element of
you film look its very best. Simply
put, the rule of thirds is when you
imagine two lines vertically and
two lines horizontally making
three columns, three rows, and
nine sections in a grid over your
screen (many cameras have this
as a function so you might not
have to imagine). Important
compositional elements and
leading lines are placed on or
near the imaginary lines where
the lines intersect. It’s also a great
guide for achieving a symmetrical
shot. This is a very simple
explanation but below are some
examples from my work to help
illustrate the point.
4Don’t forget about sound.
I can’t stress this enough. A
film with bad sound, no matter
how amazing the footage,
will become unwatchable.
However, an average looking
film with good sound is still very
watchable. It’s not easy, especially
on the road, but there are a host
of tips and tricks you can use.
Firstly, don’t use a camera’s internal
microphone. They are never great,
and even a cheapish external
microphone will get you much better
sound. It is also worth taking an
extension wire so you can get your
Examples of the rule of thirds
42 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

mic closer to the action. Think about
adding a narration to the film. This
will give you clear audio and help to
tell your story. If narration doesn’t
appeal then try to record regular
video diaries in a quiet spot. When
you come to the edit, these can be
used over footage as narration.
5Look at your film as an outsider
would. When you go to edit
your film, you must consider your
audience and how they experience
your film. This can be one of the
hardest bits about making a film. Its
important that when you watch the
film you will be reminded of your
feelings at the time. If you were cold
and miserable you will remember
how tough it was at that time, but
your audience won’t know that unless
you can show them. If you can’t, leave
it out. Pick story lines and stick with
them, don’t add footage that doesn’t
add to the story. It may feel brutal, but
it needs to be done, or your audience
will simply switch off.
WHAT NEXT?
Once you have made your film, what
can you do with it? The options are
numerous and include anything
from just showing to family and
friends, to getting it on TV. These
days putting it online is the easiest
way for people to see your work,
but remember the internet is full
of people who enjoy making other
people feel bad, so if someone
criticises your work, try your best
to take good feedback onboard and
ignore hateful comments.
If you want more people to see your
film there are ways to promote it.
Adventure Bike TV has a segment
in every show called ‘Travel Journal’,
where anyone’s work can be shown
as long at it meets the requirements,
which includes no copyrighted music.
The important thing is to have a go
and make something you are proud
of and can enjoy.
Tom and Geek Media are setting
up a new training course aimed
specifically at people who want to
film their adventures on a small
budget. For more information visit
the website: www.geekmedialtd.
com. And if you would like to watch
Adventure Bike TV visit:
www.adventurebiketv.com.
A BASIC ADVENTURE FILMING
KIT FOR UNDER £800
This kit will give you all the basics you need to film your adventure. I
recommend CVP.com for filming equipment who offer great support for all
their products and are real filming experts. The prices quoted are from their
website.
Camera, Canon DSLR EOS 700D + EF-S 18-55mm £509.00
A DSLR have hand advantages over a video camera; it’s smaller, the
interchangeable lenses give a great cinematic look and there is no need to
take a stills camera.
Microphone, Rode Video Mic-R £99.00
This Microphone sits on top of a DSLR, vastly increasing the quality of the
sound, and as the mic is directional, it cuts down on other background noise.
Light, Lishuai LED 120A £66.00
Having a light is important. You can use the bike’s headlights, but a small
LED light will mean you can film even at night.
Action Camera, Nilox Mini F Full HD £89.95
Why not a Go Pro? An action camera should be used sparingly. No one
wants to watch hours of road from a helmet, so you don’t need to spend huge
amounts. The Nilox film in full HD and you can use any of the normal Go
Pro mounts and accessories.
Spare Batteries and Memory cards.
You never know when you will be able to charge your batteries or back up
your footage, so get as many spares as you can.
ABOUT ADVENTURE BIKE TV - Adventure Bike TV was the brainchild of Thomas Woodrow and Graham Hoskins,
friends who had worked together on numerous TV projects; this one with the aim to create a monthly free online show packed full of bike reviews,
travelogues, technical advice and personalities from the adventure travel community. A new episode launches the first of every month.
See www.adventure bike TV.com for the latest episode and extensive back catalogue. Currently on Season Three.

THE SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE
CHEAP BIKE. CHEAP TRIP. MIKEY SUNTER SHARES HIS AND BERNARD SMITH’S
SHORT JAUNT AROUND THE HIGHLANDS ON A PAIR OF HONDA C90s.
PACK YOUR RAIN COAT AND GO
Tell us about the trip.
The trip was to Applecross
in the highlands of Scotland,
which is along the North Coast
500 coastal route. It was going to 3
nights and 4 days. It can easily be
done a lot faster, but we planned on
covering around 150 miles a day.
At an average of 40mph and with
lots of stops then 150 miles a day is
plenty!
Who was with you on the trip?
My partner in crime was none
other than Bernard Smith (coauthor
of Touching the World). I’d
met Bernard when he was heading
to Orkney shortly after his wife
passed away. I went to meet him
when I was still riding with L plates
and then met him again at a rally
on the west coast of Scotland where
I really got chatting with him. We
have been friends ever since.
Why did you guys choose the C90s
for the trip?
Well, the question is really why not?
They are just good fun machines
that allow you to slow down and see
more of the places you are passing
through. Plus, everyone smiles and
waves when you’re on the humble
C90. I do have other bikes; a
Yamaha Tenere 660, an Innova 125
and a SR125, but out of them all I
just like riding the 90 the most.
What equipment did you take?
We took what we had to hand. My
tent was a Vango Pulsar 200. I took
some cooking stuff, but we hardly
used them as we would just stop
in villages along the way for coffee
and food. Bernard took some fairy
lights for his tent. Also, a top tip for
kit from Bernard is an umbrella;
it’s perfect for all weathers and was
certainly perfect for Scotland!
How far did you plan ahead?
I had spoken to Bernard a couple
The famous sign of John O’ Groats
of months before the trip, when
he was passing through Thurso,
and he seemed keen for the idea.
In fact, he called me a few weeks
later to tell me had bought a C90
and that was that. So not much
planning really; just jump on the
bikes and set off.
What did you enjoy most about
the trip?
For me it just meeting people.
Everyone wants to chat with you.
For instance, we were sat in a cafe
in Ullapool and we had couple of
big bikers come in to find us and
chat about our little bikes. They
just loved the fact that we where
on C90s. Other than the amazing
roads and views it was definitely
meeting different people.
Mikey and Bernard at the start of Applecross
What did I enjoy the least?
The rain and the midges, but living
in Scotland I am used to it. But if
you are planning any motorcycle
trip in Scotland, do pack your
waterproofs!
What do you get out of a trip like
44 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com

this; what’s the appeal?
I guess it’s just something different
and fun, which for me is what riding
a motorcycle is all about: it should
be fun!
Did anything go wrong on the
trip, and if so how did you deal
with it?
The only thing that went wrong
was when Bernard flipped his C90
going over the pass in Applecross.
It went badly wrong and if the
crash barriers weren’t there he
and his C90 would have gone over
the edge. Lucky for us that did not
happen. Also, when he fell off he
broke his screen and smashed his
top box off. We fixed the top box
back on with cable ties and just
put the remains of his Rickman
screen on the back of bike with
bungees.
How did the C90s cope with
the trip?
One didn’t make it home... I have
to be honest I had fitted mine
with a Lifan 110 engine, not for
speed, just for the 4th gear. As
for Bernard’s C90, he had a nice
standard low mileage bike with
about 7000miles on it. The engine
only lasted around 500 miles
before he managed to kill it about
10 miles from my house on the
way home, proving that they are
not bomb proof, though it could
have been Bernard giving it a
hard time. Other than that they
did just fine
What would you do differently
next time?
The only thing I would do
differently is fit a single saddle to
the bike, as you have to unpack to
get to the fuel tank under the seat.
Other than that I can’t think of
anything; I just love to travel on a
small bike.
Where next?
Next for me is to some local rallies
in Scotland and then the Horizons
Unlimited event in South Wales,
which is about 650 miles round
trip. I’m going to get some
information and tips on travelling
overseas, as I plan to ride to
Mongolia in the near future. At the
moment I’m not sure if it will be a
solo ride on my C90, of it anyone
wants to join me...
LAND’S END TO JOHN O’
GROATS - JOIN IN.
It’s been an idea of mine to do the Land’s End to John O’ Groats ride
for some time now, just as a means of seeing more of Britain. I plan to
ride it on the 105cc Honda CT 110 that I rode back from Australia on
and later across America. Cruising speed will be low - around 40mph
- so the smaller the bike the better, or an opportunity to drag the old
junker out of the shed. It’ll be camping the whole way and looking
to do it in seven days, as that seems about the right amount of time
people can get off work. It shouldn’t cost more than the petrol, food
and campsites to do it; so £200 tops.
Let’s say meet at Land’s End visitors centre, 9am on Saturday 13th
May, when hopefully the weather will have broken. See you there.
Updates at www.gettingintoadventure.com

THE ONE TANK CHALLENGE
NOT EVERYONE HAS THE TIME AND OPPORTUNITY TO TRAVEL AROUND THE
WORLD. MAKING THE MOST OF THE HERE AND NOW IS WHAT THIS MAN DID...
Beach at Tywyn: no dogs allowed
46 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com
My name is Tim Duncan. I
have been a police officer
for 20 years and now work
in Herefordshire. Prior to this,
I served in the Royal Engineers,
based mostly in Germany. My Dad
is a Morgan agent, and I have been
around interesting cars and bikes
most of my life.
I passed my bike test in around
1990, riding a KMX125, then
ending up with a Ducati 750SS,
which I used to ride to Germany
regularly when based there. I had
a big accident on that in 1994,
then bought a Royal Enfield Bullet,
which has remained in pieces pretty
much ever since. The Bullet will be
back together soon, but for how
long, is anyone’s guess.
I would love to ride up to the Arctic
Circle; Scandinavia or even Iceland.
I’m happier in colder temperatures,
and don’t fancy being hot and
bothered all the time. I like riding
on unsurfaced roads, and would
like to travel more often on them.
Like most, I am definitely hampered
by the time/opportunity/money
constraints, with mortgages,
children and work getting in the
way of bigger trips. For this reason
I have focused more recently on
‘Mini adventures’, whereby I try to
gain the most experience/excitement
for minimal expenditure and time.
A day spent pottering round green
lanes in Wales is a day well-spent as
far as I’m concerned.
I ride to work every day and had
been using a BMW R1200 GS.
Recently I switched to a Chinesebuilt
AJS 125. This has been great
fun, and opened my eyes to a
whole new way of riding and
exploring. It’s certainly not as fast
as the GS, but riding it I feel much
more connected to the actual
riding experience, plus it’s cheaper
on fuel.
When I found it, the little AJS was
festering in a neighbour’s front
garden, with a honeysuckle growing
through it. It had been there since
2012, with a suspected charging
fault. I took pity on it, and saw it’s
potential having read about the
distance some people have travelled
on smaller machines.
First I had to unseize the engine
and replace the throttle and speedo
cables, carb, and a fork seal. It’s
been totally reliable ever since, and
I’ve done over 2000 miles on it in
the past 3 months alone. It doesn’t
even use or leak oil, which is a bit of

a shock to a Landrover owner!
The one tank challenge came about
then as a response to the realisation
that for now I’m just not in a
position to ride around the world
or up through Scandinavia. Rather
than not do anything, I thought why
not have a small adventure, close to
home, with the added bonus of an
economy challenge thrown in?
On paper the AJS holds 10-litres of
petrol, which should get it about
220-250 miles. I had a free day in
December, so aimed for the most
exciting places I could get to, and back,
within the time and fuel limits of the
bike. I suppose if you have two days,
then just use two tanks of fuel!
Obviously, where you can get to
will vary depending on where
you start, so everyone will have a
slightly different minimal adventure
experience. But the essence is to
slow down, not be in such a hurry
to tear off hundreds of miles away,
but take the interesting back lanes
closer to home instead; the ones
you seldom bother to explore.
I don’t carry much. Waterproofs are
essential, but I am happy to forage
along the route. My gloves let me
down on this journey and are no
longer waterproof, so I had to resort
to putting petrol station disposable
gloves on underneath to stave off
trench hand/hypothermia. Goretex
socks are my new best friends, and
a Must Have for longer rides in
Winter.
I did worry about running out
of fuel, but I did know the route
I was taking, and planned for an
emergency stop on the return leg if I
was running low.
On this inaugural One Tank
Challenge I explored the back roads
of Wales. For future challenges, I am
keen to look over the Cotswolds, or
maybe explore the Forest of Dean.
These are nearer to home, which will
mean I have more fuel and time to
use when I am there, possibly trying
out some green lanes, which I love
riding, even on the AJS.
If the idea of a minimal adventure
appeals, just get out there and do it.
Look at your potential range, drag
out the road atlas, and see where
you can reasonably get to. Look up
local information on the internet so
you have a few ideas of where to go
and what to do before you set off.
Consider joining the Trail Riders
Fellowship or GLASS, to help you
discover the roads less travelled.
Just because you’re ‘only’ taking the
scenic route to the nearest beach, or
mountain, doesn’t mean it will be
any less challenging or fun than a
longer trip, especially if you are on a
smaller bike.
So go on, give it a go. You’ve nothing
to lose but a tank of fuel.
Welshpool and Llanfair Railway
Cregennan Lake, near Arthog
Towards Talyllyn Lake, in shadow of Cader Idris
THE
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The stunning Brecon Beacons
“TRULY A PROFESSIONAL
ORGANISATION OF
THE HIGHEST ORDER”
JAY LENO
WWW.SHIPPIO.COM
l
International collection and delivery
l
Crating & container loading
l
European & International transport by air, sea & road
l
Customs clearances & local advice
l
Depots & agents across the globe
l
Insurance policies
Email: info@shippio.com Tel: +44 (0)1604 419 815
www.shippio.com

BREAK ALL BOUNDARIES.
DOMINATOR GTX
Explore that unbeaten path and find that hidden trail, break all boundaries. If you constantly put yourself out there to find the
next two-wheeled adventure, you don’t want your gear to get in your way nor do you want to worry about your safety. We did
that for you. The Dominator GTX aims to meet all the needs and wants of the two-wheeled traveler.
VIEW THE COMPLETE COLLECTION AND LOCATE YOUR NEAREST DEALER ON
WWW.REVITSPORT.COM
48 Find out more at www.gettingintoadventure.com