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BRUSSELS but it gets the job done. Northern end of rue Neuve. HEMA Not exactly for the fashion-minded, but the budget traveler can find lots of good bargains here. Branch at 19 chaussée d’Ixelles. 111 rue Neuve. Tel: +32 2 227 52 11. BOUTIQUES STIJL Short of going to Antwerp, this street has the best fashion in Belgium. Stijl has a selection of the Antwerp Five and other hip designers. 74 rue Antoine Dansaert. Tel: +32 2 512 02 13. ESPACE BIZARRE Achingly hip furniture and household paraphernalia in a huge downtown store. Specializes in bedroom, textiles and lighting with a Japanese twist. Mon-Sat 10-19. 17-19 rue des Chartreux. Tel: +32 2 514 52 56. NEUHAUS The company that boasts having invented the modern praline in 1912 is a must for lovers of up-market chocolates. 25 galerie de la Reine. Tel: +32 2 512 63 59. LA BOUTIQUE TINTIN Everything you could want from the little Belgian cartoon adventurer. Great place to bring the kids when they turn out not to share your awe at the Grand Place. 13 rue de la Colline. Tel: +32 2 514 51 52. MARKETS PLACE DU CHÂTELAIN The makeshift Sunday food market at Gare du Midi is much larger, but this one on Wednesdays in Ixelles (noon-8 pm) has a nicer neighborhood feel. Rue du Bailli at rue de L’Amazone. GRAND PLACE Not exactly the biggest flower market on the planet, but very likely the one with the best setting. Has a modest business going every day, and a bird market on Sundays. Grand Place. PLACE DU JEU DE BALLE Daily flea market (7 am-2 pm) in Marolles offering all the junk you would ever want to see. Reportedly, people occasionally make good finds. Otherwise, just enjoy the atmosphere. Rue Blaes at rue de L’Hectolitre. PLACE DU GRAN SABLON The streets surrounding this lovely square are lined with antique shops. The weekend market (Sat 9 am-6 pm, Sun 9 am-2 pm) draws hoards of locals looking for good finds. Rue Lebeau at rue des Sablons. 10 GREAT SITES GRAND PLACE The undisputed heart of the city, if not the country. Flanked by an amazing collection of baroque guild houses, this is one of the world’s most beautiful squares. Don’t forget to rub Everard at No. 8 for good luck. MANNEKEN-PIS The little boy perpetually relieving himself is Brussels’ most famous sight, much thanks to his outlandish wardrobe. If you’re lucky he’ll be wearing his Elvis outfit. Corner of rue de Chêne and rue de l’Etuve. CATHÉDRALE DE STS MICHEL ET GUDULE A marvelous piece of 15th-century Brabant Gothic architecture. Now all bright and shiny, having been renovated in time for the
wedding of Prince Philippe and Princess Mathilde in 1999. Open 8 am-6 pm daily. Place Ste Gudule. Tel: +32 2 217 83 45. MUSÉE HORTA The father of art nouveau has scattered masterpieces all over Brussels. One of the few you can actually visit is his former St Gilles home, now a homage to the man. 25 rue Americaine. Tel: +32 2 537 16 92. EU PARLIAMENT Political junkies flock to see their favorite MEPs in action in what the locals call the “caprice of the Gods”. Still, the buildings are nice and extravagant. Metro station Trône or Maelbeek. Rue Wiertz. Tel: +32 2 2843453. MUSÉE BRUXELLOIS DE LA GUEUZE You don’t have to stick to run-of-the-mill lager beer. The Belgians certainly don’t. Instead, they brew self-fermented lambic, champagne-bottled gueuze and, oh yes – cherry beer. 56 rue Cheude, Anderlecht. Tel: +32 2 520 28 91. WATERLOO One of the most important battles of all time took place just south of Brussels on June 18, 1815. Reenactments are held every fifth year; the next one due 2005. Waterloo Visitors’ Centre, 254 route du Lion, Braine l’Alleud. Tel: +32 2 385 19 12. MUSÉE RENÉ MAGRITTE The well-heeled northern suburb of Jette houses the former home of the Belgian surrealist. 10 am-6 pm Wednesday to Sunday. 135 rue Esseghem. Tel: +32 2 428 26 26. CENTRE BELGE DE LA BANDE DESSINÉE Among all literary art forms, the Belgians have developed a particular fondness for the comic strip. See what the attraction is in this beautiful Horta warehouse. 20 rue des Sables. Tel: +32 2 219 19 80. MUSÉE DES INSTRUMENTS DE MUSIQUE It sounds dull, but this place is a treat even if you’re not a freak of organology (the science of musical instruments). Cordless headphones let you hear the instruments you approach. Housed in the city’s most gor- geous art nouveau buildning. 1 rue Villa- Hermosa. Tel: +32 2 545 01 30. GREAT WALKS BOIS DE LA CAMBRE The woods are cordoned off and the car traffic can be maddening at the northern end, so you have to go deep into it to relax. Less constrained than the rest of Brussels’ parks. South from the end of Avenue Louise. ART NOUVEAU IN IXELLES Much of Brussels’ splendid art nouveau architecture was torn down after the war, but there is still enough left from the likes of Victor Horta and Paul Hankar to make a walkabout worthwhile. South of metro station Louise. SURREALIST BRUSSELS Belgians don’t get more surreal than René Magritte. This tour gives you a taste of what it was like to walk in his otherworldly shoes. Tourist Information Brussels (TIB). Hôtel de Ville, Grand Place. Tel: +32 2 513 89 40. GUIDED TOURS BRUSSELS BRUSSELS BY WATER Even though it’s a stretch to think of Brussels as a water city, there is a port. And if you’re willing to venture south of the city, there are Galeries St Hubert
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