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Scanorama’s guide to<br />

BRUSSELS<br />

This guide was updated in October 2002


BRUSSELS<br />

USEFUL INFORMATION<br />

AIRPORT TRANSFER<br />

The airport information desk is open daily<br />

from 7 am to 10 pm. There is no tourist<br />

information desk but a board at arrivals<br />

displays hotel information.<br />

The Airport City Express (tel: +32 2<br />

753 24 40) operates from Level -1 at<br />

Zaventem Airport (16 kms east of Brussels).<br />

Tickets cost €2.40 for a second-class<br />

single and €3.70 in first class. Trains run<br />

every 15 minutes (6 am-midnight) and the<br />

journey takes about 20 minutes.<br />

A taxi downtown costs around €30.<br />

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION<br />

Brussels has a modern and inexpensive<br />

public transport system run by STIB (tel:<br />

+32 2 515 20 00). Timed tickets for metro,<br />

buses and trams cost €1.40 for one hour’s<br />

unlimited travel, but it’s more economical<br />

to buy une carte of 10 tickets for €9. Trans-<br />

DINING – EXCLUSIVE<br />

COMME CHEZ SOI<br />

Pierre Wynants’ restaurant is simply the<br />

finest in town, French or other, so be sure to<br />

book well in advance. Closed on Sunday<br />

and Monday. 23 place Rouppe. Tel: +32 2<br />

512 29 21.<br />

LA QUINCAILLERIE<br />

This beautiful hardware store in Ixelles has<br />

kept its original design from 1903. A restaurant<br />

since 1988, it is a respected but relaxed<br />

favorite of the slightly better-heeled. 45 rue<br />

du Page. Tel: +32 2 533 98 33.<br />

BONSOIR CLARA<br />

Modern European cooking and a stylish<br />

design job make this a favorite among the<br />

fashion-conscious. Closed Sundays. 22 rue<br />

Antonie Dansaert. Tel: +32 2 502 09 90.<br />

LE PETIT BOXEUR<br />

Bernard Alain’s intimate little eatery near<br />

the Bourse is not cheap, but worth it for serious<br />

foodies. Never mind that the owner is a<br />

dentist by day, the innovative locally based<br />

port maps and timetables are available<br />

free from the STIB office and TIB information<br />

centers in town.<br />

TAXIS<br />

Taxi ranks display a yellow-and-blue license<br />

sign and are situated outside mainline railway<br />

stations and other strategic sites, apart<br />

from being hailed in the streets. The fare is<br />

€0,99 per kilometer within the capital<br />

region and €1,98/km outside it. An extra<br />

€1.86 is added between 10 pm and 6 am.<br />

TIPPING<br />

Tips are included in the bill although it’s<br />

expected to add ten percent at a first-class<br />

restaurant; less at mid-priced ones.<br />

SAS OFFICE<br />

Tel: +32 2 643 69 00 | Mon-Fri 9 am-5.30<br />

pm. SAS ticket office at Brussels Airport:<br />

tel: +32 2 714 08 40 | Sun-Fri 6.30 am-8<br />

pm, Sat 6.30 am-5 pm.<br />

menu is a treat by any standards. 3 rue<br />

Borgval. Tel: +32 2 511 40 00.<br />

DINING – CLASSICS<br />

AUX ARMES DE BRUXELLES<br />

Finest among the overkill of establishments<br />

just north-east of the Grand Place.<br />

Order a bucket of mussels and knock yourself<br />

out. 13 rue des Bouchers. Tel: +32 2 511<br />

21 18.<br />

LES ALGUES<br />

They’re tearing up the street outside at<br />

the moment, so the tranquility isn’t what it<br />

used to be, but Les Algues is as good as they<br />

come if it’s seafood you’re after. No credit<br />

cards. 15 place Ste Catherine. Tel: +32 2 217<br />

90 12.<br />

AU STEKERLAPATTE<br />

This unassuming French place on a deserted<br />

side-street behind the Palais de Justice is<br />

where you book if you want to impress with<br />

your local knowledge. Closed Mondays,<br />

otherwise packed. 4 rue des Prêtres. Tel: +32<br />

2 512 86 81.


BRUSSELS


EU parliament<br />

BRUSSELS<br />

LA MAISON DU CYGNE<br />

The exquisite restaurant on the Grand<br />

Place where Karl Marx used to hang out.<br />

Bring a large wallet if you want to taste the<br />

first-rate truffels or foie gras. Closed Sundays.<br />

9 Grand Place. Tel: +32 2 511 82 44.<br />

DINING – MODERATE<br />

LOLA<br />

Very chic eatery that fits neatly into the posh<br />

antiques district. Lots of suits around<br />

lunchtime, munching classic French cuisine.<br />

Popular among gays. 33 place du<br />

Grand Sablon. Tel: +32 2 514 24 60.<br />

LE PRÉ SALÉ<br />

White tiling and goat’s-head coat hangers<br />

give this seafood place near Ste Catherine<br />

an abattoir feel, but the food, service and<br />

relaxed atmosphere more than compensate.<br />

20 rue de Flandre. Tel: +32 2 513 65 45.<br />

BALTHAZAR<br />

If you need a quick bite between that sleepy<br />

EU meeting and your plane home, head for<br />

Jean Yves Beugent’s innovative Mediterranean<br />

table. 63 rue Archimède. Tel: +32 2<br />

742 06 00.<br />

LA MEILLEURE JEUNESSE<br />

Named after a Pasolini poetry book, this<br />

artsy French bistro in Ixelles has the most<br />

gorgeous waiting staff in the city. 58 rue de<br />

l’Aurore. Tel: +32 2 640 23 94.<br />

DINING – INEXPENSIVE<br />

DIVINO<br />

A new Italian restaurant with glorious food<br />

at humane prices. Simple decor and somewhat<br />

crowded tables, but homey. Don’t miss<br />

the hip unisex washrooms downstairs. 56<br />

rue des Chartreux. Tel: +32 2 503 3909.<br />

ZEBRA<br />

Run by the people who brought us Bonsoir<br />

Clara (see Exclusive), Zebra is a well-filled<br />

trendy bar at night and an affordable kickback<br />

café during daylight hours. 33 place St<br />

Géry. Tel: +32 2 511 09 01.<br />

DA KAO<br />

It’s more rugged than the fancier Asians<br />

across the street, but good Vietnamese value<br />

for your money. 38 rue Antoine Dansaert.<br />

Tel: +32 2 512 67 16.<br />

LA VACHE QUI REGARDE<br />

PASSER LES TRAINS<br />

Any place called “the cow that watches the<br />

trains go by” deserves a mention. One of<br />

the brightest, cleanest and most adorable<br />

cafés in town. Plus, it’s eco-friendly. 29<br />

galerie de la Reine. Tel: +32 2 513 33 36.<br />

BARS<br />

FALSTAFF<br />

Its fabulous art nouveau and art deco interior<br />

has made this an institution. Great beer<br />

selection and generous opening hours. 17-<br />

21 rue Henri Maus. Tel: +32 2 511 87 89.<br />

GREENWICH<br />

The chess haven where Bobby Fischer is<br />

rumored to have beaten Marcel Duchamp<br />

at the age of 11. Twice. A little worn and<br />

smoky, but a good place for contemplation,<br />

since loud conversation is discouraged. 7<br />

rue des Chartreux. Tel: +32 2 511 41 67.<br />

LE CIRIO<br />

This classy joint by the Bourse has been<br />

around since 1886 and is the place where<br />

the demi-demi (half champagne, half white<br />

wine) was invented. 18-20 rue de la Bourse.<br />

Tel: +32 2 512 13 95.


AU SOLEIL<br />

If you want to mingle with scruffy twentysomethings,<br />

this ex-clothes store is the place<br />

for you. Pretty street facade but few frills<br />

inside. No plastic money accepted. 86<br />

rue du Marché au Charbon. Tel: +32 2 513<br />

34 30.<br />

NIGHTCLUBS & DISCOS<br />

FUSE<br />

The most happening techno-house club in<br />

the city, if not the country, especially on Fridays<br />

when nothing much else is going on.<br />

Hosts a popular gay night, La Demence,<br />

once a month. Visa cards only. 208 rue<br />

Blaes. Tel: +32 2 511 97 89.<br />

WHO’S WHO LAND<br />

A legend on the Euro dance scene. Keeps<br />

shutting down and re-opening. May have<br />

lost a bit of edge along the way, but still<br />

steaming on a good night. Fridays and Saturdays<br />

only. No credit cards. 17 rue du<br />

Poinçon. Tel: +32 2 512 52 70.<br />

MIRANO CONTINENTAL<br />

The semi-tacky revolving dance floor of this<br />

old cinema draws more mature and wellheeled<br />

partyers. Saturdays only. No credit<br />

cards. 38 chaussée de Louvain. Tel: +32 2<br />

227 39 70.<br />

TOUR ET TAXI<br />

Housed in an old Gothic church, this huge<br />

club has the faithful jumping to house and<br />

trance. Drawback: The neighborhood is not<br />

Brussels’ finest, so take a cab. No credit<br />

cards. 5 rue Picard. Tel: +32 2 420 55 05.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

L’ANCIENNE BELGIQUE<br />

“AB” to those in the know, this classic rock<br />

venue announces acts practically every<br />

weeknight. Fits 2,000 guests, not necessarily<br />

seated. 114 boulevard Anspach. Tel: +32 2<br />

548 24 24.<br />

MAGASIN 4<br />

This old warehouse near the Yser metro has<br />

a reputation for breaking in bands for bigger<br />

venues. In other words, here’s where you<br />

catch tomorrow’s acts today. No credit cards.<br />

4 rue du Magasin. Tel: +32 2 223 34 74.<br />

BRUSSELS<br />

LE FOOL MOON<br />

Hard to get to but one of the best places in<br />

town for live music, especially for stuff like<br />

soul and acid jazz. 26 quai de Mariemont.<br />

Tel: +32 2 410 10 03.<br />

L’ARCHIDUC<br />

Benefitting greatly from its central location<br />

and generous opening hours, this tiny art<br />

deco jazz café has long been popular for fine<br />

live acts and mellow lounging. 6 rue Antoine<br />

Dansaert. Tel: +32 2 512 06 52.<br />

SHOPPING – DEPARTMENT STORES<br />

INNO<br />

Five floors of fairly basic Belgian-owned<br />

all-under-one-roof shopping on the number<br />

one shopping street in town. Also has a<br />

branch at the head of chic Avenue Louise.<br />

Mon-Sat 10 am-6.30 pm. 111 rue Neuve.<br />

Tel: +32 2 211 21 11.<br />

GALERIES ST HUBERT<br />

A contender for “The World’s Thinnest<br />

Mall”, but a real architectural gem. This<br />

upscale glass-covered arcade from 1847 is<br />

Europe’s oldest. North-east of Grand Place.<br />

CITY 2<br />

If you don’t mind the crowds, this mall has a<br />

large number of specialty shops, plus a huge<br />

Fnac for books and music. Not very posh,<br />

Grand Place


BRUSSELS<br />

but it gets the job done. Northern end of rue<br />

Neuve.<br />

HEMA<br />

Not exactly for the fashion-minded, but the<br />

budget traveler can find lots of good bargains<br />

here. Branch at 19 chaussée d’Ixelles.<br />

111 rue Neuve. Tel: +32 2 227 52 11.<br />

BOUTIQUES<br />

STIJL<br />

Short of going to Antwerp, this street has the<br />

best fashion in Belgium. Stijl has a selection<br />

of the Antwerp Five and other hip designers.<br />

74 rue Antoine Dansaert. Tel: +32 2 512 02 13.<br />

ESPACE BIZARRE<br />

Achingly hip furniture and household paraphernalia<br />

in a huge downtown store. Specializes<br />

in bedroom, textiles and lighting<br />

with a Japanese twist. Mon-Sat 10-19. 17-19<br />

rue des Chartreux. Tel: +32 2 514 52 56.<br />

NEUHAUS<br />

The company that boasts having invented<br />

the modern praline in 1912 is a must for<br />

lovers of up-market chocolates. 25 galerie de<br />

la Reine. Tel: +32 2 512 63 59.<br />

LA BOUTIQUE TINTIN<br />

Everything you could want from the little<br />

Belgian cartoon adventurer. Great place to<br />

bring the kids when they turn out not to<br />

share your awe at the Grand Place. 13 rue de<br />

la Colline. Tel: +32 2 514 51 52.<br />

MARKETS<br />

PLACE DU CHÂTELAIN<br />

The makeshift Sunday food market at Gare<br />

du Midi is much larger, but this one on<br />

Wednesdays in Ixelles (noon-8 pm) has a<br />

nicer neighborhood feel. Rue du Bailli at<br />

rue de L’Amazone.<br />

GRAND PLACE<br />

Not exactly the biggest flower market on the<br />

planet, but very likely the one with the best<br />

setting. Has a modest business going every<br />

day, and a bird market on Sundays. Grand<br />

Place.<br />

PLACE DU JEU DE BALLE<br />

Daily flea market (7 am-2 pm) in Marolles<br />

offering all the junk you would ever want to<br />

see. Reportedly, people occasionally make<br />

good finds. Otherwise, just enjoy the atmosphere.<br />

Rue Blaes at rue de L’Hectolitre.<br />

PLACE DU GRAN SABLON<br />

The streets surrounding this lovely square<br />

are lined with antique shops. The weekend<br />

market (Sat 9 am-6 pm, Sun 9 am-2 pm)<br />

draws hoards of locals looking for good<br />

finds. Rue Lebeau at rue des Sablons.<br />

10 GREAT SITES<br />

GRAND PLACE<br />

The undisputed heart of the city, if not the<br />

country. Flanked by an amazing collection<br />

of baroque guild houses, this is one of the<br />

world’s most beautiful squares. Don’t forget<br />

to rub Everard at No. 8 for good luck.<br />

MANNEKEN-PIS<br />

The little boy perpetually relieving himself<br />

is Brussels’ most famous sight, much thanks<br />

to his outlandish wardrobe. If you’re lucky<br />

he’ll be wearing his Elvis outfit. Corner of<br />

rue de Chêne and rue de l’Etuve.<br />

CATHÉDRALE DE STS<br />

MICHEL ET GUDULE<br />

A marvelous piece of 15th-century Brabant<br />

Gothic architecture. Now all bright and<br />

shiny, having been renovated in time for the


wedding of Prince Philippe and Princess<br />

Mathilde in 1999. Open 8 am-6 pm daily.<br />

Place Ste Gudule. Tel: +32 2 217 83 45.<br />

MUSÉE HORTA<br />

The father of art nouveau has scattered<br />

masterpieces all over Brussels. One of the<br />

few you can actually visit is his former St<br />

Gilles home, now a homage to the man. 25<br />

rue Americaine. Tel: +32 2 537 16 92.<br />

EU PARLIAMENT<br />

Political junkies flock to see their favorite<br />

MEPs in action in what the locals call<br />

the “caprice of the Gods”. Still, the buildings<br />

are nice and extravagant. Metro station<br />

Trône or Maelbeek. Rue Wiertz. Tel: +32 2<br />

2843453.<br />

MUSÉE BRUXELLOIS DE LA GUEUZE<br />

You don’t have to stick to run-of-the-mill<br />

lager beer. The Belgians certainly don’t.<br />

Instead, they brew self-fermented lambic,<br />

champagne-bottled gueuze and, oh yes –<br />

cherry beer. 56 rue Cheude, Anderlecht. Tel:<br />

+32 2 520 28 91.<br />

WATERLOO<br />

One of the most important battles of all time<br />

took place just south of Brussels on June 18,<br />

1815. Reenactments are held every fifth<br />

year; the next one due 2005. Waterloo Visitors’<br />

Centre, 254 route du Lion, Braine<br />

l’Alleud. Tel: +32 2 385 19 12.<br />

MUSÉE RENÉ MAGRITTE<br />

The well-heeled northern suburb of Jette<br />

houses the former home of the Belgian surrealist.<br />

10 am-6 pm Wednesday to Sunday.<br />

135 rue Esseghem. Tel: +32 2 428 26 26.<br />

CENTRE BELGE DE LA BANDE DESSINÉE<br />

Among all literary art forms, the Belgians<br />

have developed a particular fondness for the<br />

comic strip. See what the attraction is in this<br />

beautiful Horta warehouse. 20 rue des<br />

Sables. Tel: +32 2 219 19 80.<br />

MUSÉE DES INSTRUMENTS<br />

DE MUSIQUE<br />

It sounds dull, but this place is a treat even if<br />

you’re not a freak of organology (the science<br />

of musical instruments). Cordless headphones<br />

let you hear the instruments you<br />

approach. Housed in the city’s most gor-<br />

geous art nouveau buildning. 1 rue Villa-<br />

Hermosa. Tel: +32 2 545 01 30.<br />

GREAT WALKS<br />

BOIS DE LA CAMBRE<br />

The woods are cordoned off and the car traffic<br />

can be maddening at the northern end,<br />

so you have to go deep into it to relax. Less<br />

constrained than the rest of Brussels’ parks.<br />

South from the end of Avenue Louise.<br />

ART NOUVEAU IN IXELLES<br />

Much of Brussels’ splendid art nouveau<br />

architecture was torn down after the war, but<br />

there is still enough left from the likes of Victor<br />

Horta and Paul Hankar to make a walkabout<br />

worthwhile. South of metro station<br />

Louise.<br />

SURREALIST BRUSSELS<br />

Belgians don’t get more surreal than René<br />

Magritte. This tour gives you a taste of what<br />

it was like to walk in his otherworldly shoes.<br />

Tourist Information Brussels (TIB). Hôtel de<br />

Ville, Grand Place. Tel: +32 2 513 89 40.<br />

GUIDED TOURS<br />

BRUSSELS<br />

BRUSSELS BY WATER<br />

Even though it’s a stretch to think of Brussels<br />

as a water city, there is a port. And if you’re<br />

willing to venture south of the city, there are<br />

Galeries St Hubert


Manneken-Pis<br />

BRUSSELS<br />

some impressive boat elevators near Halle.<br />

Brussels by Water. Tel: +32 2 203 64 06.<br />

PRO VELÓ<br />

Apart from renting out bikes, this outfit does<br />

guided two-wheeled tours of the city and its<br />

outskirts during the summertime. 15 rue de<br />

Londres, Ixelles. Tel: +32 2 502 73 55.<br />

TOURIST INFORMATION BRUSSELS<br />

The tourist office offers a wide variety of bus<br />

and walking tous in the footsteps of practically<br />

everything. Hôtel de Ville, Grand<br />

Place. Tel: +32 2 513 89 40.<br />

ATELIER DE RECHERCE ET<br />

D’ACTION URBAINE<br />

The ARAU tour on Saturday mornings can<br />

take you inside houses that are normally offlimits.<br />

Also does coach trips. 55 boulevard<br />

Adolphe Max. Tel: +32 2 219 33 45.<br />

KIDS’ STUFF<br />

MUSÉE DE SCIENCES NATURELLES<br />

If your kids are into dinosaurs, this is the<br />

place to take them. Some pretty impressive<br />

dino wrecks have been found in Belgium.<br />

260 chaussée de Waire. Tel: +32 2 627 42 38.<br />

MINI-EUROPE<br />

This is where the Belgians take Euro-frenzy<br />

to a whole other level. It’s a Lilliputian ver-<br />

sion (scale 1:25) of a wide selection of European<br />

landmarks. Makes kids feel big. Bruparck,<br />

20 boulevard du Centenaire, Laeken.<br />

Tel: +32 2 474 13 11.<br />

SCIENTASTIC<br />

This hands-on science museum, housed<br />

inside the Bourse metro station since 1994,<br />

is where to bring inquisitive kids and let<br />

somebody else answer all the questions.<br />

Métro Bourse, Level 1. Tel: +32 2 732 13 36.<br />

MUSEÉ DES ENFANTS<br />

The clever “Childrens’ Museum” in Ixelles<br />

offers lots of interactive attractions, as well as<br />

painting and cooking classes. Mostly for kids<br />

under 10. 15 rue de Bourgmestre. Tel: +32 2<br />

640 01 07.<br />

MOVE IT<br />

GOLDEN CLUB<br />

The gym where Belgian beefcake Jean-<br />

Claude van Damme once got started. Open<br />

noon to 10 pm on weekdays. 33 place du<br />

Châtelain, Ixelles. Tel: +32 2 538 19 06.<br />

CYCLING<br />

The Belgian flatland is an invitation to bicycling,<br />

and many locals do a fair Eddy Merckx<br />

impression in their spare time. Sundays<br />

with ADEPS, 44 boulevard Léopold II. Tel:<br />

+32 2 413 28 97.<br />

PATINOIRE DE FOREST<br />

Unless the spectaculuar ice rink on the<br />

Grand Place is skatable, the best pirouettes<br />

can be seen (or performed) in the southwestern<br />

suburb of Forest. 36 avenue du<br />

Globe. Tel: +32 2 345 16 11.<br />

JOGGING<br />

The best places to jog are connected parks in<br />

the southern part of the city, starting at the<br />

end of Avenue Louise. Bois de la Cambre<br />

and the Forêt de Soignes.<br />

Visit our website www.scandinavian.net where<br />

a new city guide will be added each month.<br />

Updated October 2002<br />

Editor: Henrik Harr, henrik.harr@sasmedia.se<br />

Pictures from Sjöberg<br />

Scanorama is published ten times a year by: SAS Media AB,<br />

Gävlegatan 16, S-113 30 Stockholm, SWEDEN.<br />

Scanorama is the inflight magazine of Scandinavian Airlines.

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