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Scanorama’s guide to<br />
BRUSSELS<br />
This guide was updated in October 2002
BRUSSELS<br />
USEFUL INFORMATION<br />
AIRPORT TRANSFER<br />
The airport information desk is open daily<br />
from 7 am to 10 pm. There is no tourist<br />
information desk but a board at arrivals<br />
displays hotel information.<br />
The Airport City Express (tel: +32 2<br />
753 24 40) operates from Level -1 at<br />
Zaventem Airport (16 kms east of Brussels).<br />
Tickets cost €2.40 for a second-class<br />
single and €3.70 in first class. Trains run<br />
every 15 minutes (6 am-midnight) and the<br />
journey takes about 20 minutes.<br />
A taxi downtown costs around €30.<br />
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION<br />
Brussels has a modern and inexpensive<br />
public transport system run by STIB (tel:<br />
+32 2 515 20 00). Timed tickets for metro,<br />
buses and trams cost €1.40 for one hour’s<br />
unlimited travel, but it’s more economical<br />
to buy une carte of 10 tickets for €9. Trans-<br />
DINING – EXCLUSIVE<br />
COMME CHEZ SOI<br />
Pierre Wynants’ restaurant is simply the<br />
finest in town, French or other, so be sure to<br />
book well in advance. Closed on Sunday<br />
and Monday. 23 place Rouppe. Tel: +32 2<br />
512 29 21.<br />
LA QUINCAILLERIE<br />
This beautiful hardware store in Ixelles has<br />
kept its original design from 1903. A restaurant<br />
since 1988, it is a respected but relaxed<br />
favorite of the slightly better-heeled. 45 rue<br />
du Page. Tel: +32 2 533 98 33.<br />
BONSOIR CLARA<br />
Modern European cooking and a stylish<br />
design job make this a favorite among the<br />
fashion-conscious. Closed Sundays. 22 rue<br />
Antonie Dansaert. Tel: +32 2 502 09 90.<br />
LE PETIT BOXEUR<br />
Bernard Alain’s intimate little eatery near<br />
the Bourse is not cheap, but worth it for serious<br />
foodies. Never mind that the owner is a<br />
dentist by day, the innovative locally based<br />
port maps and timetables are available<br />
free from the STIB office and TIB information<br />
centers in town.<br />
TAXIS<br />
Taxi ranks display a yellow-and-blue license<br />
sign and are situated outside mainline railway<br />
stations and other strategic sites, apart<br />
from being hailed in the streets. The fare is<br />
€0,99 per kilometer within the capital<br />
region and €1,98/km outside it. An extra<br />
€1.86 is added between 10 pm and 6 am.<br />
TIPPING<br />
Tips are included in the bill although it’s<br />
expected to add ten percent at a first-class<br />
restaurant; less at mid-priced ones.<br />
SAS OFFICE<br />
Tel: +32 2 643 69 00 | Mon-Fri 9 am-5.30<br />
pm. SAS ticket office at Brussels Airport:<br />
tel: +32 2 714 08 40 | Sun-Fri 6.30 am-8<br />
pm, Sat 6.30 am-5 pm.<br />
menu is a treat by any standards. 3 rue<br />
Borgval. Tel: +32 2 511 40 00.<br />
DINING – CLASSICS<br />
AUX ARMES DE BRUXELLES<br />
Finest among the overkill of establishments<br />
just north-east of the Grand Place.<br />
Order a bucket of mussels and knock yourself<br />
out. 13 rue des Bouchers. Tel: +32 2 511<br />
21 18.<br />
LES ALGUES<br />
They’re tearing up the street outside at<br />
the moment, so the tranquility isn’t what it<br />
used to be, but Les Algues is as good as they<br />
come if it’s seafood you’re after. No credit<br />
cards. 15 place Ste Catherine. Tel: +32 2 217<br />
90 12.<br />
AU STEKERLAPATTE<br />
This unassuming French place on a deserted<br />
side-street behind the Palais de Justice is<br />
where you book if you want to impress with<br />
your local knowledge. Closed Mondays,<br />
otherwise packed. 4 rue des Prêtres. Tel: +32<br />
2 512 86 81.
BRUSSELS
EU parliament<br />
BRUSSELS<br />
LA MAISON DU CYGNE<br />
The exquisite restaurant on the Grand<br />
Place where Karl Marx used to hang out.<br />
Bring a large wallet if you want to taste the<br />
first-rate truffels or foie gras. Closed Sundays.<br />
9 Grand Place. Tel: +32 2 511 82 44.<br />
DINING – MODERATE<br />
LOLA<br />
Very chic eatery that fits neatly into the posh<br />
antiques district. Lots of suits around<br />
lunchtime, munching classic French cuisine.<br />
Popular among gays. 33 place du<br />
Grand Sablon. Tel: +32 2 514 24 60.<br />
LE PRÉ SALÉ<br />
White tiling and goat’s-head coat hangers<br />
give this seafood place near Ste Catherine<br />
an abattoir feel, but the food, service and<br />
relaxed atmosphere more than compensate.<br />
20 rue de Flandre. Tel: +32 2 513 65 45.<br />
BALTHAZAR<br />
If you need a quick bite between that sleepy<br />
EU meeting and your plane home, head for<br />
Jean Yves Beugent’s innovative Mediterranean<br />
table. 63 rue Archimède. Tel: +32 2<br />
742 06 00.<br />
LA MEILLEURE JEUNESSE<br />
Named after a Pasolini poetry book, this<br />
artsy French bistro in Ixelles has the most<br />
gorgeous waiting staff in the city. 58 rue de<br />
l’Aurore. Tel: +32 2 640 23 94.<br />
DINING – INEXPENSIVE<br />
DIVINO<br />
A new Italian restaurant with glorious food<br />
at humane prices. Simple decor and somewhat<br />
crowded tables, but homey. Don’t miss<br />
the hip unisex washrooms downstairs. 56<br />
rue des Chartreux. Tel: +32 2 503 3909.<br />
ZEBRA<br />
Run by the people who brought us Bonsoir<br />
Clara (see Exclusive), Zebra is a well-filled<br />
trendy bar at night and an affordable kickback<br />
café during daylight hours. 33 place St<br />
Géry. Tel: +32 2 511 09 01.<br />
DA KAO<br />
It’s more rugged than the fancier Asians<br />
across the street, but good Vietnamese value<br />
for your money. 38 rue Antoine Dansaert.<br />
Tel: +32 2 512 67 16.<br />
LA VACHE QUI REGARDE<br />
PASSER LES TRAINS<br />
Any place called “the cow that watches the<br />
trains go by” deserves a mention. One of<br />
the brightest, cleanest and most adorable<br />
cafés in town. Plus, it’s eco-friendly. 29<br />
galerie de la Reine. Tel: +32 2 513 33 36.<br />
BARS<br />
FALSTAFF<br />
Its fabulous art nouveau and art deco interior<br />
has made this an institution. Great beer<br />
selection and generous opening hours. 17-<br />
21 rue Henri Maus. Tel: +32 2 511 87 89.<br />
GREENWICH<br />
The chess haven where Bobby Fischer is<br />
rumored to have beaten Marcel Duchamp<br />
at the age of 11. Twice. A little worn and<br />
smoky, but a good place for contemplation,<br />
since loud conversation is discouraged. 7<br />
rue des Chartreux. Tel: +32 2 511 41 67.<br />
LE CIRIO<br />
This classy joint by the Bourse has been<br />
around since 1886 and is the place where<br />
the demi-demi (half champagne, half white<br />
wine) was invented. 18-20 rue de la Bourse.<br />
Tel: +32 2 512 13 95.
AU SOLEIL<br />
If you want to mingle with scruffy twentysomethings,<br />
this ex-clothes store is the place<br />
for you. Pretty street facade but few frills<br />
inside. No plastic money accepted. 86<br />
rue du Marché au Charbon. Tel: +32 2 513<br />
34 30.<br />
NIGHTCLUBS & DISCOS<br />
FUSE<br />
The most happening techno-house club in<br />
the city, if not the country, especially on Fridays<br />
when nothing much else is going on.<br />
Hosts a popular gay night, La Demence,<br />
once a month. Visa cards only. 208 rue<br />
Blaes. Tel: +32 2 511 97 89.<br />
WHO’S WHO LAND<br />
A legend on the Euro dance scene. Keeps<br />
shutting down and re-opening. May have<br />
lost a bit of edge along the way, but still<br />
steaming on a good night. Fridays and Saturdays<br />
only. No credit cards. 17 rue du<br />
Poinçon. Tel: +32 2 512 52 70.<br />
MIRANO CONTINENTAL<br />
The semi-tacky revolving dance floor of this<br />
old cinema draws more mature and wellheeled<br />
partyers. Saturdays only. No credit<br />
cards. 38 chaussée de Louvain. Tel: +32 2<br />
227 39 70.<br />
TOUR ET TAXI<br />
Housed in an old Gothic church, this huge<br />
club has the faithful jumping to house and<br />
trance. Drawback: The neighborhood is not<br />
Brussels’ finest, so take a cab. No credit<br />
cards. 5 rue Picard. Tel: +32 2 420 55 05.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
L’ANCIENNE BELGIQUE<br />
“AB” to those in the know, this classic rock<br />
venue announces acts practically every<br />
weeknight. Fits 2,000 guests, not necessarily<br />
seated. 114 boulevard Anspach. Tel: +32 2<br />
548 24 24.<br />
MAGASIN 4<br />
This old warehouse near the Yser metro has<br />
a reputation for breaking in bands for bigger<br />
venues. In other words, here’s where you<br />
catch tomorrow’s acts today. No credit cards.<br />
4 rue du Magasin. Tel: +32 2 223 34 74.<br />
BRUSSELS<br />
LE FOOL MOON<br />
Hard to get to but one of the best places in<br />
town for live music, especially for stuff like<br />
soul and acid jazz. 26 quai de Mariemont.<br />
Tel: +32 2 410 10 03.<br />
L’ARCHIDUC<br />
Benefitting greatly from its central location<br />
and generous opening hours, this tiny art<br />
deco jazz café has long been popular for fine<br />
live acts and mellow lounging. 6 rue Antoine<br />
Dansaert. Tel: +32 2 512 06 52.<br />
SHOPPING – DEPARTMENT STORES<br />
INNO<br />
Five floors of fairly basic Belgian-owned<br />
all-under-one-roof shopping on the number<br />
one shopping street in town. Also has a<br />
branch at the head of chic Avenue Louise.<br />
Mon-Sat 10 am-6.30 pm. 111 rue Neuve.<br />
Tel: +32 2 211 21 11.<br />
GALERIES ST HUBERT<br />
A contender for “The World’s Thinnest<br />
Mall”, but a real architectural gem. This<br />
upscale glass-covered arcade from 1847 is<br />
Europe’s oldest. North-east of Grand Place.<br />
CITY 2<br />
If you don’t mind the crowds, this mall has a<br />
large number of specialty shops, plus a huge<br />
Fnac for books and music. Not very posh,<br />
Grand Place
BRUSSELS<br />
but it gets the job done. Northern end of rue<br />
Neuve.<br />
HEMA<br />
Not exactly for the fashion-minded, but the<br />
budget traveler can find lots of good bargains<br />
here. Branch at 19 chaussée d’Ixelles.<br />
111 rue Neuve. Tel: +32 2 227 52 11.<br />
BOUTIQUES<br />
STIJL<br />
Short of going to Antwerp, this street has the<br />
best fashion in Belgium. Stijl has a selection<br />
of the Antwerp Five and other hip designers.<br />
74 rue Antoine Dansaert. Tel: +32 2 512 02 13.<br />
ESPACE BIZARRE<br />
Achingly hip furniture and household paraphernalia<br />
in a huge downtown store. Specializes<br />
in bedroom, textiles and lighting<br />
with a Japanese twist. Mon-Sat 10-19. 17-19<br />
rue des Chartreux. Tel: +32 2 514 52 56.<br />
NEUHAUS<br />
The company that boasts having invented<br />
the modern praline in 1912 is a must for<br />
lovers of up-market chocolates. 25 galerie de<br />
la Reine. Tel: +32 2 512 63 59.<br />
LA BOUTIQUE TINTIN<br />
Everything you could want from the little<br />
Belgian cartoon adventurer. Great place to<br />
bring the kids when they turn out not to<br />
share your awe at the Grand Place. 13 rue de<br />
la Colline. Tel: +32 2 514 51 52.<br />
MARKETS<br />
PLACE DU CHÂTELAIN<br />
The makeshift Sunday food market at Gare<br />
du Midi is much larger, but this one on<br />
Wednesdays in Ixelles (noon-8 pm) has a<br />
nicer neighborhood feel. Rue du Bailli at<br />
rue de L’Amazone.<br />
GRAND PLACE<br />
Not exactly the biggest flower market on the<br />
planet, but very likely the one with the best<br />
setting. Has a modest business going every<br />
day, and a bird market on Sundays. Grand<br />
Place.<br />
PLACE DU JEU DE BALLE<br />
Daily flea market (7 am-2 pm) in Marolles<br />
offering all the junk you would ever want to<br />
see. Reportedly, people occasionally make<br />
good finds. Otherwise, just enjoy the atmosphere.<br />
Rue Blaes at rue de L’Hectolitre.<br />
PLACE DU GRAN SABLON<br />
The streets surrounding this lovely square<br />
are lined with antique shops. The weekend<br />
market (Sat 9 am-6 pm, Sun 9 am-2 pm)<br />
draws hoards of locals looking for good<br />
finds. Rue Lebeau at rue des Sablons.<br />
10 GREAT SITES<br />
GRAND PLACE<br />
The undisputed heart of the city, if not the<br />
country. Flanked by an amazing collection<br />
of baroque guild houses, this is one of the<br />
world’s most beautiful squares. Don’t forget<br />
to rub Everard at No. 8 for good luck.<br />
MANNEKEN-PIS<br />
The little boy perpetually relieving himself<br />
is Brussels’ most famous sight, much thanks<br />
to his outlandish wardrobe. If you’re lucky<br />
he’ll be wearing his Elvis outfit. Corner of<br />
rue de Chêne and rue de l’Etuve.<br />
CATHÉDRALE DE STS<br />
MICHEL ET GUDULE<br />
A marvelous piece of 15th-century Brabant<br />
Gothic architecture. Now all bright and<br />
shiny, having been renovated in time for the
wedding of Prince Philippe and Princess<br />
Mathilde in 1999. Open 8 am-6 pm daily.<br />
Place Ste Gudule. Tel: +32 2 217 83 45.<br />
MUSÉE HORTA<br />
The father of art nouveau has scattered<br />
masterpieces all over Brussels. One of the<br />
few you can actually visit is his former St<br />
Gilles home, now a homage to the man. 25<br />
rue Americaine. Tel: +32 2 537 16 92.<br />
EU PARLIAMENT<br />
Political junkies flock to see their favorite<br />
MEPs in action in what the locals call<br />
the “caprice of the Gods”. Still, the buildings<br />
are nice and extravagant. Metro station<br />
Trône or Maelbeek. Rue Wiertz. Tel: +32 2<br />
2843453.<br />
MUSÉE BRUXELLOIS DE LA GUEUZE<br />
You don’t have to stick to run-of-the-mill<br />
lager beer. The Belgians certainly don’t.<br />
Instead, they brew self-fermented lambic,<br />
champagne-bottled gueuze and, oh yes –<br />
cherry beer. 56 rue Cheude, Anderlecht. Tel:<br />
+32 2 520 28 91.<br />
WATERLOO<br />
One of the most important battles of all time<br />
took place just south of Brussels on June 18,<br />
1815. Reenactments are held every fifth<br />
year; the next one due 2005. Waterloo Visitors’<br />
Centre, 254 route du Lion, Braine<br />
l’Alleud. Tel: +32 2 385 19 12.<br />
MUSÉE RENÉ MAGRITTE<br />
The well-heeled northern suburb of Jette<br />
houses the former home of the Belgian surrealist.<br />
10 am-6 pm Wednesday to Sunday.<br />
135 rue Esseghem. Tel: +32 2 428 26 26.<br />
CENTRE BELGE DE LA BANDE DESSINÉE<br />
Among all literary art forms, the Belgians<br />
have developed a particular fondness for the<br />
comic strip. See what the attraction is in this<br />
beautiful Horta warehouse. 20 rue des<br />
Sables. Tel: +32 2 219 19 80.<br />
MUSÉE DES INSTRUMENTS<br />
DE MUSIQUE<br />
It sounds dull, but this place is a treat even if<br />
you’re not a freak of organology (the science<br />
of musical instruments). Cordless headphones<br />
let you hear the instruments you<br />
approach. Housed in the city’s most gor-<br />
geous art nouveau buildning. 1 rue Villa-<br />
Hermosa. Tel: +32 2 545 01 30.<br />
GREAT WALKS<br />
BOIS DE LA CAMBRE<br />
The woods are cordoned off and the car traffic<br />
can be maddening at the northern end,<br />
so you have to go deep into it to relax. Less<br />
constrained than the rest of Brussels’ parks.<br />
South from the end of Avenue Louise.<br />
ART NOUVEAU IN IXELLES<br />
Much of Brussels’ splendid art nouveau<br />
architecture was torn down after the war, but<br />
there is still enough left from the likes of Victor<br />
Horta and Paul Hankar to make a walkabout<br />
worthwhile. South of metro station<br />
Louise.<br />
SURREALIST BRUSSELS<br />
Belgians don’t get more surreal than René<br />
Magritte. This tour gives you a taste of what<br />
it was like to walk in his otherworldly shoes.<br />
Tourist Information Brussels (TIB). Hôtel de<br />
Ville, Grand Place. Tel: +32 2 513 89 40.<br />
GUIDED TOURS<br />
BRUSSELS<br />
BRUSSELS BY WATER<br />
Even though it’s a stretch to think of Brussels<br />
as a water city, there is a port. And if you’re<br />
willing to venture south of the city, there are<br />
Galeries St Hubert
Manneken-Pis<br />
BRUSSELS<br />
some impressive boat elevators near Halle.<br />
Brussels by Water. Tel: +32 2 203 64 06.<br />
PRO VELÓ<br />
Apart from renting out bikes, this outfit does<br />
guided two-wheeled tours of the city and its<br />
outskirts during the summertime. 15 rue de<br />
Londres, Ixelles. Tel: +32 2 502 73 55.<br />
TOURIST INFORMATION BRUSSELS<br />
The tourist office offers a wide variety of bus<br />
and walking tous in the footsteps of practically<br />
everything. Hôtel de Ville, Grand<br />
Place. Tel: +32 2 513 89 40.<br />
ATELIER DE RECHERCE ET<br />
D’ACTION URBAINE<br />
The ARAU tour on Saturday mornings can<br />
take you inside houses that are normally offlimits.<br />
Also does coach trips. 55 boulevard<br />
Adolphe Max. Tel: +32 2 219 33 45.<br />
KIDS’ STUFF<br />
MUSÉE DE SCIENCES NATURELLES<br />
If your kids are into dinosaurs, this is the<br />
place to take them. Some pretty impressive<br />
dino wrecks have been found in Belgium.<br />
260 chaussée de Waire. Tel: +32 2 627 42 38.<br />
MINI-EUROPE<br />
This is where the Belgians take Euro-frenzy<br />
to a whole other level. It’s a Lilliputian ver-<br />
sion (scale 1:25) of a wide selection of European<br />
landmarks. Makes kids feel big. Bruparck,<br />
20 boulevard du Centenaire, Laeken.<br />
Tel: +32 2 474 13 11.<br />
SCIENTASTIC<br />
This hands-on science museum, housed<br />
inside the Bourse metro station since 1994,<br />
is where to bring inquisitive kids and let<br />
somebody else answer all the questions.<br />
Métro Bourse, Level 1. Tel: +32 2 732 13 36.<br />
MUSEÉ DES ENFANTS<br />
The clever “Childrens’ Museum” in Ixelles<br />
offers lots of interactive attractions, as well as<br />
painting and cooking classes. Mostly for kids<br />
under 10. 15 rue de Bourgmestre. Tel: +32 2<br />
640 01 07.<br />
MOVE IT<br />
GOLDEN CLUB<br />
The gym where Belgian beefcake Jean-<br />
Claude van Damme once got started. Open<br />
noon to 10 pm on weekdays. 33 place du<br />
Châtelain, Ixelles. Tel: +32 2 538 19 06.<br />
CYCLING<br />
The Belgian flatland is an invitation to bicycling,<br />
and many locals do a fair Eddy Merckx<br />
impression in their spare time. Sundays<br />
with ADEPS, 44 boulevard Léopold II. Tel:<br />
+32 2 413 28 97.<br />
PATINOIRE DE FOREST<br />
Unless the spectaculuar ice rink on the<br />
Grand Place is skatable, the best pirouettes<br />
can be seen (or performed) in the southwestern<br />
suburb of Forest. 36 avenue du<br />
Globe. Tel: +32 2 345 16 11.<br />
JOGGING<br />
The best places to jog are connected parks in<br />
the southern part of the city, starting at the<br />
end of Avenue Louise. Bois de la Cambre<br />
and the Forêt de Soignes.<br />
Visit our website www.scandinavian.net where<br />
a new city guide will be added each month.<br />
Updated October 2002<br />
Editor: Henrik Harr, henrik.harr@sasmedia.se<br />
Pictures from Sjöberg<br />
Scanorama is published ten times a year by: SAS Media AB,<br />
Gävlegatan 16, S-113 30 Stockholm, SWEDEN.<br />
Scanorama is the inflight magazine of Scandinavian Airlines.