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The_Hollywood_Reporter__February_07_2018

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Style<br />

KIdman<br />

Rae<br />

Nyong’o<br />

Brown<br />

Britton<br />

Thompson<br />

W<br />

LINGUA<br />

FRANCA<br />

Winners of the New Woke Red Carpet<br />

As ‘Who are you wearing?’ is phased out of preshows, fashion labels feel the burn, but savvy brands<br />

attached to feminist stars are reaping the benefits: ‘Time’s Up has added a new dimension’ By Booth Moore<br />

ith Time’s Up pins<br />

outshining diamond<br />

jewelry and designer<br />

name-dropping on the red carpet<br />

at a minimum, is fashion this<br />

awards season’s biggest loser?<br />

“After the mad dash for black at<br />

the Golden Globes and media<br />

conversations directed toward<br />

the #MeToo movement, designer<br />

brands are not the winners,” says<br />

Stacy Jones, CEO of entertainment<br />

and fashion marketing firm<br />

<strong>Hollywood</strong> Branded Inc.<br />

<strong>The</strong> cancellation of E!’s Fashion<br />

Police in November — then<br />

Beyonce and Lorde skipping the<br />

Grammy carpet in response to<br />

an antiwage inequality petition<br />

calling for an E! News boycott —<br />

may signal the end of an era for<br />

preshow fashion commentary.<br />

PRABAL<br />

GURUNG<br />

“I don’t think it will return to<br />

being a one-dimensional conversation<br />

about fashion on the red<br />

carpet,” says Time’s Up founding<br />

member Amanda de Cadenet.<br />

Although most designers<br />

understand why the gender equality<br />

message takes precedence,<br />

even feminists like Prabal Gurung<br />

are “wish[ing] actresses got asked<br />

why they chose to wear the particular<br />

designer.” Luxury brands,<br />

of course, still are moving heaven<br />

and earth to dress stars. “We’re<br />

seeing the fashion discussion<br />

moving more to the digital space,<br />

where designers, publicists or<br />

stars themselves are pushing out<br />

info about styles,” says Jones.<br />

British house Ralph & Russo<br />

may have gone unnamed during<br />

preshows (as did Nicole Kidman’s<br />

ARMANI<br />

Armani at the SAG Awards), but<br />

it still stacks up as a big winner,<br />

dressing such “woke” A-listers as<br />

Lupita Nyong’o. Her gray gown at<br />

the SAG Awards reached 713.5 million<br />

readers, at a PR value of<br />

$13,084,612, says Jones. Notes CEO<br />

Michael Russo, “Time’s Up has<br />

added a new dimension to the red<br />

carpet for brands.”<br />

Gurung received multiple<br />

inquiries from potential customers<br />

about Issa Rae’s dramatic<br />

black gown at the Golden Globes.<br />

According to retail analytics<br />

company EDITED, sales of black<br />

dresses increased by 225 percent<br />

from Jan. 1 to 18 compared<br />

with the same period last year.<br />

With all-black at the Globes —<br />

also planned for the Feb. 18<br />

BAFTAs — and all-white onstage<br />

RALPH &<br />

RUSSO<br />

CONVERSE<br />

at the Grammys making headlines,<br />

unlikely faves have<br />

emerged, including Lingua<br />

Franca, Rachelle Hruska<br />

MacPherson’s New York label<br />

of hand-embroidered cashmere.<br />

After Connie Britton wore<br />

a “Poverty Is Sexist” sweater at<br />

the Globes (Tessa Thompson<br />

later wore a version with first<br />

names of female directors), “we<br />

got hundreds of emails,” says<br />

MacPherson. Reese Witherspoon<br />

ordered 20 Lingua Franca “Time’s<br />

Up” sweaters for Eva Longoria<br />

and other supporters. Converse<br />

enjoyed the rare shout-out at<br />

the SAG Awards by Millie Bobby<br />

Brown, who wore Chuck Taylors<br />

with her pink Calvin Klein dress.<br />

“Converse are cool!” says Jones.<br />

Now, even more so.<br />

BRITTON: JOE SCARNICI/GETTY IMAGES. THOMPSON: PHILLIP FARAONE/GETTY IMAGES. RAE, NYONG’O: STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE. KIDMAN: AXELLE/<br />

BAUER-GRIFFIN/FILMMAGIC. BROWN: JOHN SHEARER/GETTY IMAGES. AMERICAN: COURTESY OF ABRAMS BOOKS (2). PURSE: COURTESY OF 18008456790.<br />

THR<br />

Read<br />

Runways and <strong>Hollywood</strong>: A Long Love Affair<br />

FROM ITS SLEEPY BEGINNINGS to today’s star-laden productions, New York Fashion Week and its<br />

evolution are chronicled in American Runway (Abrams, $65), by THR style and fashion news director<br />

Booth Moore. “Once [publicist Eleanor Lambert] launched Press Week in 1943, the era of the<br />

American designer started,” writes Council of Fashion Designers of America board chair Diane<br />

von Furstenberg in the foreword (Moore worked with CFDA on the book). Celebrating its 75th anniversary,<br />

NYFW has had its fair share of <strong>Hollywood</strong> moments on its way to becoming a globally live-streamed event.<br />

“I underestimated the interest in fashion and how people are intrigued by the alchemy of something,” says Michael<br />

Kors of his early reticence about doing Project Runway, which debuted in 2004 and is now on its 16th season. As did<br />

exec producer Harvey Weinstein, recalls producer Desiree Gruber: “He didn’t [initially] understand the excitement<br />

of bringing an idea from a designer’s sketch to fabrication onto a model’s body to the runway.” — LAURIE BROOKINS<br />

Bottega Veneta just<br />

moved its show and<br />

store from Milan<br />

to NYC. Bag, $2,800.<br />

“You are literally being manhandled until they push you out on the runway … it’s a live performance,” says Cindy Crawford of NYFW in American Runway.<br />

THE HOLLYWOOD REPORTER<br />

52<br />

FEBRUARY 7, <strong>2018</strong>

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