SLO LIFE Magazine Apr/May 2018

THE CULINARY REFUGE
At a “Mastering Meats” class at Refugio Kitchen in Paso Robles,
the aroma of beef hangs thick on the air. “Obviously you guys
are interested in meat,” says Brigit Binns, the proprietor and
prolific cookbook author with bylines on Williams-Sonoma and
Sunset Magazine publications, among others. “I am, too, so let’s
get started.”
The kitchen is bright, colorful, and contemporary, with a massive
island and cooktop where Binns demonstrates; behind her, a
small team of helpers tosses lettuces, slices standing rib roasts,
and collates a booklet of recipes for me and my fellow students
to take home. Amy Butler of Ranchero Cellars pours a vertical
flight of Carignan wine for each course while Binns describes
how to reverse-sear ribeyes, purchase a meat thermometer,
render beef fat, and time each dish for entertaining. Along
with the wine, her expertise augments each plate of roast beef,
tangerine and arugula salad, NY steak with board dressing, and
standing rib roast with pepper jelly-red wine reduction sauce
that we savor.
“Caramelization of meat is called the Maillard Reaction,” she
says, lifting a NY steak from the grill pan. Midway through
describing the process she pauses and smiles. “You didn’t know
you were going to get a science class with your steak, did you?”
Demonstration classes $115; hands-on classes $125. Both include
a welcome glass of local wine followed by several tastes of one wine
producer. Reservations required. SLO LIFE
86 | SLO LIFE MAGAZINE | APR/MAY 2018