Caribbean Compass Yachting Magazine - August 2018

AUGUST 2018 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16
When sailing eastward from Varadero, Cayo Guillermo and Cayo Coco,
Cuba’s north coast offers many spectacular anchorages. For the adventurous
explorer, Cuba’s north coast has quite a few narrow channels
that open into great bays. However, the issues surrounding visiting
boats and Cuban refugees kept
us to the main ports and anchorages,
where we could announce
our presence to the authorities.
Cubans are not permitted,
under any circumstances, near
a foreign vessel. Even in marinas,
you can only show a new
friend your boat from a distance.
Usually dock security will
dictate the distance. In turn, no
foreigner is permitted on a
Cuban local’s boat. Also, you
are not supposed to scuba dive
without local supervision; snorkeling
is permitted.
Gibara
The city of Gibara has a nice
place to drop the hook in a
huge bay and makes a good
stopover for a few days. When
you see the red-and-whitestriped
lighthouse and ten tall
wind generators on the shoreline,
you are about a half hour
away. Tuck in to the east of the
fishing fleet. At the north end of
the port, Marlin Marina has a
small dock where you can lock
your tender. You’ll see Hobie
Cats and wave runners.
Gibara is one of those Cuban
cities where industrialization
has ceased and tourism is hoping
to fill the void. Just beyond
DESTINATIONS
the port is one of the many parks with a few small cafeterias where good coffee and
very inexpensive sandwiches can be had for pesos, not CUCs. The park is Gibara’s
center of activity, with plenty of art and sculptures, and of course there is a church.
A few doors off the park is a great museum — Museo Colonial — that displays a
huge two-storey house furnished exactly as it would have been in the late 1800s.
Aside from the exquisite antique furniture, the kitchen and bathroom are fantastic.
Along the park is a museum of natural history.
At the north end of the port is a small cannon battery, and that should lead you
to walk along the seawall malecón to see an exceptional fresco of Columbus and a
fantastic bronze statue of national hero Camillo Cienfuegos. If you are energized from
the coffee, walk to the old fort overlooking the town for the best view and a chance
at finding reasonably priced local artwork.
There aren’t many restaurants in Gibara. At the dinghy dock, Rio de Mar is a surprisingly
upscale restaurant, but reservations seem to be necessary. Food is exceptionally
good at the Coral restaurant a short walk away, just beyond the park. Gibara
is a fine small city to relax in
and catch a glimpse of the
quiet side of Cuba.
Puerto de Vita
An easy day underway will
A Trio of Anchorages
on Cuba’s
North Coast
by Ralph Trout
Baracoa — the north coast’s most easterly bay is
an excellent anchorage. Before the Revolution,
the city’s only access was by sea
bring you to the next anchorage.
Puerto de Vita is probably
the most protected spot along
Cuba’s north coast. It would
provide excellent shelter and
great holding ground in a blow.
There was only a 50-foot steel
fishing boat anchored close to
the marina when we arrived.
There are not many big vessels
along the north coast.
The entry to the bay is marked
by a lighthouse at approximately
21°05.670N, 75°57.886W
— give or take a second or two.
Don’t worry, you shouldn’t miss
the lighthouse. From the
entrance, take a couple of dog
legs south through well-buoyed
shallows — the marina is in the
mangroves. If your boat’s draft
is more than five feet, pass on
this marina. Of course, try to
pick high tide to enter. Watch
your depth and go slowly. With
narrow passages, this area is
very similar to the mangroves
of Varadero. If it isn’t breezy,
close the hatches and reach for
the insect repellent.
The marina at Puerto de Vita
is the most easterly port of
entry. Puerto de Vita is the
most backwoods of Cuba’s marinas managed by the Gaviota group. This marina is
almost in the middle of nowhere. I say “almost” because this area of Cuba was Fidel’s
first attempt at grand-scale tourism. Stretched across the coastline to the east are
several hotels that comprise the Guardalavaca area.
As with most of Cuba’s marina operations, making prior contact by the internet or
by phone is difficult. This marina monitors VHF channels 13 and 16. Announce your
vessel’s arrival and wait for their instructions.
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