Mzanzitravel Local Travel Inspiration Issue 11

Discover
Fisherman’s boats and cottages - vwPix, iStock
Paternoster… turquoise sea, seafood
heaven, sailor’s prayers & fisherman’s
cottages
Across South Africa one finds towns and villages named for biblical events and
places. On the rugged West Coast, about 145km from Cape Town, along a part
reminiscent of the Greek Isles, lies the charming fishing village of Paternoster -
the Latin name used by the Catholic Church for the Lord’s Prayer. Legend has
it the name came from the prayers of Portuguese sailors when their ship was
sinking here; other say it is a reference to the beads used by the original Khoisan
inhabitants. But no-one knows for sure.
For anyone who has spent time here, the enduring postcard picture of Paternoster
that will remain with them, is one of a tranquil turquoise sea, large granite
boulders, swarms of seagulls, brightly painted fishing boats lined up on snowwhite
beaches, whitewashed and thatched fisherman’s cottages, fynbos on the
dunes, bokkoms (a type of fish) drying on racks in the gentle breeze, and a lazy
timelessness under bright sunny skies. A favourite, all-year weekend getaway
destination for Capetonians, Paternoster is one of the oldest towns along the West
Coast. It’s famous also for its abundance of crayfish as much as for its traditional
fisherman’s cottages.
Its other delights include watching whales and dolphins frolicking in the ocean (ten
months of the year). After the first spring rains have fallen the area, forming part of
the Namaqualand wildflower region, is transformed by the millions of indigenous
flowers which open and densely carpet the earth in bright bursts of colour (usually
between late July and September). Bird lovers can also indulge their fancy here
with over 250 bird species.
Stroll along the beach, dive some crayfish out of the ocean, go on dune hikes,
saddle a mountain bike, go kayaking, take a tour of the well-preserved traditional
fishermen’s cottages, or marvel at the Southern Right, Bryde’s and Humpback
whales, killer whales and dolphins playing in the sea. You can also visit the nearby
West Coast Fossil Park, Cape West Coast Biosphere Reserve, or visit the Cape
Columbine lighthouse and the surrounding Cape Columbine Nature Reserve.
Enjoy traditional ‘fish and chips’, freshly caught snoek or crayfish in a cosy seaside
restaurant. Stop for breakfast, lunch or sundowners at the Paternoster Hotel,
where you might find a regular patron’s tractor parked in the street out front. Or
enjoy a snoek braai at nearby Tietiesbaai…a beautiful bay on the coast, the name
of which naughtily refers to women’s breasts.
The Cape Columbine Lighthouse commissioned in 1936, was the last manned
lighthouse to be designed by the famous Harry Claude Cooper, Lighthouse
Engineer for the Cape Colonial Government. It is probably the only South African
lighthouse built in something of an art deco style, breaking with tradition as it
resembles a square, buttressed castle instead of the usual round, tapered shape,
aptly being built on what is known locally as Castle Rock. It is usually the first
lighthouse along the western shores of Africa to be sighted by ships coming from
South America and Europe, like answering a seaman’s prayer.
The lighthouse was named after the barque Columbine which ran aground here on
31 Mary 1829. Columbine is one of the few lighthouses that still has a dedicated
lighthouse keeper. It is open to the public daily between 10h00 and 15h00. The
lighthouse has 3 self-catering cottages, all former lighthouse keepers’ cottages.
For more information: Paternoster Tourism Office Tel +27 (0)22 752 2323, Email
paternoster@sbto.co.za, Website www.capewestcoastpeninsula.co.za/towns/
paternoster; West Coast Tourism Tel +27 (0)22 433 8505, Email tourism@wcdm.
co.za, Web www.capewestcoast.org; Cape Columbine Lighthouse Tel +27 (0)21
449 2400 or lighthouse.tourism@transnet.net.
Cape Columbine Lighthouse on Castle Rock - Dr Awie
Badenhorst, iStock Clear water, granite boulders - iStock Fisherman’s boat - simonstravels, iStock Paternoster - Dr Awie Badenhorst, iStock