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A&L Nov_2018

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DLF <strong>2018</strong><br />

Literary jollies:<br />

My experience of Dhaka Lit Fest<br />

cricket match irrelevant when talking about a literary festival? I don’t think<br />

so, given how many writers love the game.)<br />

All literary jollies like this become emotionally intense; when they<br />

take place thousands of miles from one’s home, even more so. They give<br />

the events an extra charge; and the friendships are forged at a higher<br />

temperature than in familiar surroundings (I mean this figuratively, not<br />

literally. The weather in Dhaka in <strong>Nov</strong>ember is, as readers of this paper will<br />

know, deliciously balmy. Well it was when I was there, and it suited me). As<br />

for what I could tell about the country itself, which was not much, admittedly,<br />

well, let me put this tactfully: some Westerners can have misgivings<br />

about visiting Muslim countries, for all sorts of reasons, many of them bad<br />

ones, but at no point, not even for a second, whether in our plush hotel or<br />

just wandering through the city itself, did I experience anything other than<br />

civility, friendliness, and genuine welcome. Nor did it seem like a population<br />

suffering under (I name no names) a stern or oppressive regime.<br />

As for the literary part of the Festival, I do not have much to say, because<br />

PHOTO: MAHMUD HOSSAIN OPU<br />

• Nicholas Lezard<br />

16<br />

It is now coming up to two years since I attended the Dhaka Literary Festival,<br />

and yet my memories of it are fresh and pleasant. I am not normally<br />

a fan of literary festivals, preferring to operate from the safety of my<br />

own living room, but the chance to visit the subcontinent (not a phrase I<br />

like using that much; that “sub-” has something of a condescending air, even<br />

though it’s not meant to) was a powerful allurement, and London in <strong>Nov</strong>ember<br />

can be grim.<br />

The first surprise was the military escort. I’d never had one of these before,<br />

but the organisers were keen to allay any anxiety the guests might have had<br />

following the terrorist outrage on the Holey Artisan Bakery the previous July.<br />

This was not a trivial anxiety, but we were assured that everything possible<br />

would be done to guarantee our safety and, also, I (and, I suspect, many of my<br />

fellow guests) felt that if literature is to mean anything, or do any good in the<br />

world, then it must be brave, or the people who serve it must be prepared to<br />

stick their necks out on its behalf.<br />

But because most of the guests, as far as I could tell, were British, we<br />

never talked or even thought about these fears much, except to joke about<br />

them. It became clear, very quickly, that we were in safe hands. Our only<br />

real worry was of dying of old age in one of Dhaka’s celebrated traffic jams.<br />

(I gather it is the most congested city in the world; whether this is true or<br />

not, it stopped me from complaining about London traffic for a long time<br />

afterwards.)<br />

As for Dhaka itself, I fell in love with it. I don’t think any cricket-lover<br />

can feel wholly out of place in a country where the game is played, and as we<br />

crawled past the park on the way to the c<strong>amp</strong>us where the events took place, I<br />

looked with deep approval at the way every spare inch of it was taken up with<br />

what looked like overlapping impromptu cricket matches. I even got to play<br />

in one (on a proper pitch, not in the park), for a scratch team of the Authors’<br />

XI, scoring a streaky single before being bowled by one of the opposition’s<br />

rare bad balls: a full toss which clipped the top of off-stump. I was slow to<br />

start my walk back to the pavilion because I was hoping that the umpire’s<br />

raised finger was actually a sign for a no-ball. It wasn’t. (Is mentioning a<br />

As for Dhaka itself, I fell in love with it. I don’t<br />

think any cricket-lover can feel wholly out of<br />

place in a country where the game is played<br />

there is little mileage in reporting an event which ran so smoothly. The events<br />

were stimulating, intelligent, good-humoured, and, astonishingly, entirely<br />

free of tedium (this is why I am not normally a fan of literary festivals, which<br />

can suffer from an excess of smugness. Not this one). If there was any panic<br />

behind the scenes, I never heard about it; in fact, the more I think about it, the<br />

more I marvel at the professionalism and competence of the organisers. Not<br />

only are you having to arrange dozens of events, stalls, dinners, guides, and<br />

the co-operation of the military, for crying out loud (Hay and Cheltenham,<br />

the two main literary festivals in the UK, do not have that particular logistical<br />

problem) and whatnot, you have to deal with writers, who are not all<br />

known for being the least demanding and unfussy of people. Writers love<br />

a good gripe, and will often go looking for things to gripe about if nothing<br />

immediately offers itself, but we had nothing. Even V.S. Naipaul, who graced<br />

the Festival, looked genuinely happy to be there. The smile on his face was<br />

unforced, and so were ours. I very, very much want to go back there again,<br />

and envy those of you who are going to attend.•<br />

ARTS & LETTERS<br />

TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, <strong>2018</strong> | DHAKA TRIBUNE

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