39 Kensington Gardens, North Laine www.barneysdeli.com speciality coffee vendors Here today, for your enjoyment White & Black Drinks, hot or iced - Hot Chocolates Butterscotch Milsches - Loose Leaf Teas - Natural Sodas Retail packs and ground coffee to take away Our food is plant based
FOOD ............................. Pabellón Town centre tapas There is something of Ming the Merciless about Tristan as he licks the last of the thick black squid ink from his fingers. His hands are covered in sauce from his Gambas a la Plancha: huge prawns, with their shells on, drizzled with prawnshell infused oil (for extra prawniness) and served with a spicy squid ink sauce. It is evidently a dish worth savouring. We’re at Pabellón, the tapas bar at the bottom of North Street, and the second restaurant opened by the people behind Circo (formerly Señor Buddha), at Preston Circus. If you’ve never been there, you should go. They’ve been cooking up delicious fusion tapas, cleverly combining Spanish and East Asian flavours, since 2015. If you have been there, you’ll know that it’s tiny but, at Pabellón, the team has got a much bigger playground. Their new premises, located around the corner from the Pavilion’s India Gate, is about four times the size, with room for around 30 diners at tables and a dozen more at the long bar. It’s smart too, with dark blue walls, cool but comfortable upholstered leather chairs and dark wooden tables. Behind the huge bar, the chefs wield multiple pans, turning out plate after plate from the open kitchen. The atmosphere is lively with music, the chatter of diners and Spanish calls from the kitchen all adding an air of authenticity. (No Spanish tapas bar that I’ve ever visited has been a place for quiet dining.) We visit on a Thursday night soon after the restaurant has opened, and the place is full. There are, of course, lots of tasty morsels for the omnivores – calamari, sardines, seared scallops with Jamón Ibérico, various tortillas, with dishes priced from £7 to £14 – but, aside from the giant gambas this evening we are working our way through the ‘planta’ section of the menu. We order spinach croquetas, papas arrugadas con mojo rojo, patatas bravas bomba, charred baby gem lettuce, beetroot medley, and goat’s cheese tostada. They are big enough to share, and my favourite is the patatas bravas bomba; huge croquette-like balls of fluffy potato, with a spicy sauce at their centre and covered in a crispy, fried coating, served with tofu aioli. Delicious. But, let’s be honest. Tapas is really all about the meat and fish, and I suspect that the big flavours are to be found elsewhere on the menu in dishes like soy-blackened cod with Wakame seaweed and sesame salad, and sticky pork ribs with Korean BBQ sauce and pickled chilli. We finish our meal with bunyols de vent: traditional Catalan doughnuts, which are – as the name suggests – as light as air. They are dusted with icing sugar and drizzled with a dark, bitter, chocolate, spiked with chilli and ginger: the Asian twist tempering a dish that might otherwise have been too sweet. Like so many of the other dishes on the menu, it’s a clever – if sometime curious – marriage of cuisines, like churros from Chiang Mai. Lizzie Lower 13 Pavilion Buildings. pabellon-brighton.co.uk ....71....