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Estetica Magazine WORLD Edition (1/2019)

Estetica Magazine is the world's leading hairdressing magazine. Founded in Italy in 1946 and published today in over 60 countries around the world, it is a global reference point for professionals working in the hair and beauty industry. Techniques, fashion, education and trends are at the core of every issue of Estetica Magazine. Further information about both the printed and digital versions of the magazine is available at www.esteticanetwork.com

Estetica Magazine is the world's leading hairdressing magazine. Founded in Italy in 1946 and published today in over 60 countries around the world, it is a global reference point for professionals working in the hair and beauty industry. Techniques, fashion, education and trends are at the core of every issue of Estetica Magazine. Further information about both the printed and digital versions of the magazine is available at www.esteticanetwork.com

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<strong>WORLD</strong><br />

the Hair<strong>Magazine</strong><br />

FASHION<br />

Catwalks & icons:<br />

then & now<br />

NEED TO KNOW<br />

Reports on Exports<br />

and Digital Media<br />

FEATURES<br />

Women in Business &<br />

Green Inspo in Coiffure


BE<br />

KEEN<br />

ON<br />

HAIR<br />

BE KEENON<br />

New<br />

COLOUR<br />

VELVET COLOUR<br />

1:2<br />

RELIABLE<br />

permanent hair colour cream up to 90% grey coverage<br />

NOURISH & SHINE<br />

our oil complex consting of macadamia and olive oil nourish the<br />

hair in process of colouring and give the hair axtra healthy shine<br />

INFINITE VARIATIONS<br />

56 shades which can be mixed among each other<br />

INTERNATIONAL TESTED AND CERTIFIED<br />

more than 5.300 beauty salons in over 20 countries around<br />

the world trust our brand.<br />

NOT TESTED ON ANIMALS!<br />

Made in Germany<br />

MORE INFORMATION:<br />

visit our homepage: www.keen-hair.com<br />

E-Mail: info@keen-hair.com<br />

Tel.: 0049 (0) 30 – 577 004 38<br />

HACO GmbH & Co.KG<br />

Fasanenstr. 42<br />

10719 Berlin, Germany


<strong>Estetica</strong> n. 1/<strong>2019</strong><br />

contents<br />

PUBLISHER AND<br />

MANAGING DIRECTOR<br />

Roberto Pissimiglia<br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR<br />

Sergi Bancells<br />

sergi@esteticamagazine.com<br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF<br />

Laura Castelli<br />

l.castelli@estetica.it<br />

INTERNATIONAL EDITORIAL<br />

COORDINATOR<br />

Fatima Pilone<br />

f.pilone@estetica.it<br />

EDITORIAL STAFF<br />

Alice Gioannini<br />

adtraffic@estetica.it<br />

LAYOUT<br />

Manuela Artosi<br />

m.artosi@estetica.it<br />

Davide Cardente<br />

d.cardente@estetica.it<br />

ESPAÑA<br />

Bel M. Dolla,<br />

Elisabet Parra, Cristina Hernández<br />

DEUTSCHE AUSGABE<br />

Michaela Dee<br />

FRANCE<br />

Stéphanie Argentin, Marie Coccoluto<br />

UK<br />

Gary Kelly<br />

ITALIA<br />

Lucia Preziosi, Glorianna Vaschetto<br />

MÉXICO-LATINOAMÉRICA<br />

Erika del Paso,<br />

Héctor Ramírez, Ernesto Álvarez,<br />

Karla Cuéllar, Fernando Farfán<br />

USA<br />

Marie Scarano<br />

DIGITAL<br />

Matteo Franceschini Beghini,<br />

Erica Balduini, Ludovica Cavalli,<br />

Erika Marchese, Wilma Sommariva,<br />

Valentina Stella<br />

Export A world of beauty 3<br />

Network Digital stories 8<br />

Business Not just a pretty face... 11<br />

Exhibition Mary Quant and the revolution 66<br />

Catwalks Hair 69<br />

Dossier Making a difference 77<br />

Step by Step Fudge Professional 82<br />

Events Best in the World! 84<br />

international trends<br />

Girl Power in the<br />

new millenium.<br />

Beyond The Fringe 17<br />

North American Hairstyling Awards <strong>2019</strong> 56<br />

Hair and fashion trends<br />

for a new season


as seen in “Best In Italy”<br />

RADYCA<br />

The roots of the color.<br />

DISCOVER THE FIRST NUTRACEUTICAL COLOR<br />

Quinoa, Niosome and Coconut Oil based<br />

ONLY FOR K-TIME SALONS<br />

Check the website www.k-time.it


A world<br />

of beauty<br />

Global market trends in the hair care products sector are<br />

quite optimistic. We did the research so you can have<br />

an overview of what's happening and where to invest.<br />

Figures differ, but the global hair care market is expected to grow between now and 2024,<br />

reaching as much as USD 112.57 billion by 2023 and a CAGR between 3.35 – 4.1%. So the<br />

outlook is positive over the next five years. And we shouldn’t be surprised.<br />

Although many tend to think that the beauty industry caters mostly to the glamorous or VIPs,<br />

the truth of the matter is that it is also built on the products and services that help everyone look<br />

their best. Within this single sector there is a vast number of diversified segments that reach far<br />

beyond just make-up, hair color, and perfume… touching everything from skin cleansers and<br />

shampoos to ear and nose hair clippers, mani e pedicure enamels and tools, even furnishing and<br />

salon outfitting. We must take into account that the term ‘salon’ can be pretty generic, as many<br />

establishments also specialise as barber shops, waxing franchises, massage franchises and more.<br />

This means that the possibilities are endless. Social media and digitalization have also upped<br />

the ante, as the world is becoming smaller and smaller, making it is easier to reach new clients<br />

and markets than ever before. And for a company to grow, it is important to understand what is<br />

happening not only on local or domestic markets, but on international markets as well.<br />

How is the hairdressing industry faring in the Americas, in Europe, Australia, and Asia? How<br />

globalised is the market? How can a company decide where to venture next and what products<br />

or services to offer?<br />

export<br />

3


4 export ENGAGE!<br />

Nowadays, the looks clients want tend to be driven by celebrity trendsetters every season,<br />

influencing the industry to keep pace through new products, colors, and innovations.<br />

A substantial number of youths are exposed to these trends and grooming methods on social<br />

media platforms. There is a constant flow of information, imagery, and opinions, often on a global<br />

level, at our fingertips and in real time. Some of these still come in from the latest red carpets or<br />

international fashion weeks, but more and more our first and second circle of friends, and even a<br />

universe of bloggers and virtual influencers are driving street trends. The wide fluctuations in hair<br />

styling trends are driving the global professional hair care market, along with the popularity of the<br />

“DIY" hair styling trend among consumers, which has drastically increased the consumption of<br />

professional hair care products in developed markets.<br />

For example, companies planning to enter the Chinese market would do well to visti Weibo, the<br />

No.1 platform for so-called "Beauty KOL", or beauty bloggers, followed by throngs of female<br />

consumers who leave product reviews, convinced that this is a more reliable source than the press.<br />

The absolute hottest source of “micro-influencers”, like Kimiss in China for example, is also<br />

revolutionising marketing. A company sends its products to the Kimiss community, who then<br />

write comments and critiques on the Brand/Products.<br />

GLOBAL GROWTH<br />

The hair and beauty industry is creating growth opportunities for suppliers and manufacturers<br />

of hair care products, as confirmed by market players who are expanding their operations in<br />

developing countries like China and India, where the hair care industry is booming.<br />

Europe accounted for the largest market share of about 34.5% in the global haircare market,<br />

most of which can be attributed to the presence of developed economies such as the U.K., Italy,<br />

and others. The Americas accounted for the second largest market share, while Asia Pacific is<br />

expected to grow at the fastest CAGR of 3.81%. The presence of promising opportunities and<br />

economies that continue to develop are driving the market within this region.<br />

In any case, it has been noticed that even though consumers may become more price conscious<br />

during times of economic difficulties, they never actually stop spending on personal care<br />

altogether. And in markets like China and India, where the middle classes are growing, especially<br />

in major cities, there is more disposable income than ever, making them viable prospects,<br />

especially for specific lines of products.<br />

Zion Research confirms that Asia Pacific is projected to be among the fastest growing regions,<br />

owing to young people who prefer to invest in health and wellness services, personal appearance,<br />

REASONS WHY ITALIAN ENTREPRENEURS DO BUSINESS ABROAD<br />

Increase turnover 47%<br />

Develop my brands thanks<br />

to the concept of “Made in Italy” 30%<br />

Diversify expansion risks<br />

on multiple markets 19%<br />

Increase know-how thanks<br />

to partners “far” from operators 2%<br />

Reduce production and/or distribution<br />

costs in specific markets<br />

(delocalisation of production and/or distribution) 2%<br />

Source: drafted by the Centro Studi Cosmetica Italia based on statements of operators interviewed online.


GDP FOR FORECASTS<br />

BY AREA AND <strong>WORLD</strong> TRADE<br />

(REAL VAR.%)<br />

2018 <strong>2019</strong><br />

Consolidated economies 2.1 1.7<br />

USA 2.9 2.3<br />

Euro Zone 1.9 1.2<br />

Japanese 0.7 0.7<br />

Italy 0.9 0.5<br />

New economies 4.6 4.2<br />

China 6.6 6.0<br />

Middle East 1.7 2.1<br />

Central Europe 4.3 3.2<br />

Russia 1.6 1.5<br />

Latin America 0.9 1.4<br />

World GPD 3.7 3.3<br />

World trade 4.1 2.9<br />

Source: Prometeia<br />

GLOBAL HAIR CARE MARKET<br />

SHARE BY REGION, 2016 (%)<br />

LATIN<br />

AMERICA<br />

ASIA PACIFIC<br />

MEA<br />

NORTH AMERICA<br />

EUROPE<br />

www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/hair-care-market<br />

and activities offering peace of mind and relief from stress. Also, owing to droves of the rural<br />

population moving to metropolitan cities and the rising disposable income of people in countries<br />

such as China, Japan, and India, spas and beauty salons services in this region are expected to grow.<br />

For example, Cosmetica Italia’s Beauty Trend Watch September 2018 Report states not only that<br />

China is the country with the most rapid growth rate in the world in the beauty sector, but that<br />

58% of the Chinese declared their penchant for a more expensive product, while 36% of Chinese<br />

consumers opt for premium brands. These are consumers who live by the principle: you get what<br />

you pay for!<br />

WHAT CUSTOMERS WANT<br />

Then we must take into consideration the differentiation of products within each of these segments<br />

to meet the needs of specific skin tones, textures, allergies, age, hair type, color, and gender - sometimes<br />

even the time of day or the occasion.<br />

These targeted products are not developed solely for the salon professional. Today common<br />

consumers are increasingly savvy in their selection of purchases, experimenting with different<br />

products before settling on something that works for them – whether it be a shampoo or even a<br />

particular salon - and deciding on a brand that they will stick with loyally. So producers tend to<br />

differentiate not only product performance, but also take into account demographic markets, price<br />

points, and manufacturing processes. Moreover, with the sharpening awareness of climate change<br />

and other ecological issues, many people are seeking out organic foods and products. This shift in<br />

market demand also presents a challenge for manufacturers to adapt existing products and develop<br />

innovations to second the growing health concerns of consumers. This means that the hair care<br />

is continuously engaged in research and development to formulate new, more effective and safer<br />

products. One result is that over the past few years, herbal hair care and other niche segments have<br />

been gaining a foothold and increasing in popularity because of consumers’ heightened awareness<br />

about the ill effects of harsh chemicals and substances. (www.statista.com)<br />

Indeed, conscientious consumers worldwide are opting for products that guarantee no animal<br />

testing or are all natural or organic. And today more than ever, consumers are willing to pay a<br />

premium price for niche products that give them precisely what they want.


Labels are increasingly flaunting ingredients such as aloe, avocado, honey, almond and coconut oil<br />

in hair care formulations for products that sound good enough to eat. In markets like India and<br />

China, with their age-old traditions in herbal health and beauty remedies, consumers are shunning<br />

chemical ingredients with complicated names for natural oils and botanicals and companies are<br />

taking the hint, opening laboratories on site to benefit from this know-how.<br />

The website www.euromonitor.com claims that the growing demographic of senior consumers is<br />

becoming a strategic priority for beauty players, as over-60s “in countries where historically young<br />

societies have started to age rapidly, such as Vietnam, Saudi Arabia or Singapore, opportunities are<br />

opening up for beauty players with portfolios tuned for the needs of senior consumers.”<br />

According to the data published by WHO, the global population of 65 years and above is<br />

expected to rise from 7% in 2000 to 16% in 2050. Aging causes loss of volume, hair thinning,<br />

and dryness due to less oil production. There will therefore be an increase in the demand for<br />

products to cover grey hair and add shine and softness. China has already confirmed a rising<br />

demand for colouring owing to this ageing demographic, marked by a huge growth for this<br />

service in the men’s category, especially in the age group 35-45.<br />

SPEAKING OF COLOUR<br />

Hair color is expected to witness the fastest growth with a CAGR of 3.81% over the forecast period<br />

owing to the changing fashion trends. These products have gained popularity and visibility among<br />

female and male customers alike thanks to celebrity endorsements. Advertisements aired on social<br />

media platform, televisions and other platforms have a huge impact on end-users. Moreover,<br />

increasing penetration of national and international salons in Tier II and Tier III cities in the Asia<br />

Pacific, EMEA and North America regions is expected to increase the demand for the colors.<br />

According to www.klinegroup.com, stand-alone bond builder treatment services also saw<br />

double-digit growth in the UK and Ireland. “This is not really surprising given that it has become<br />

a necessity due to the current trend of hair color extremes,” comments Paula Gottdiner, project<br />

manager at Kline. Indeed, given the popularity of color services worldwide, products designed to<br />

provide color-related benefits are also demand. For example, shampoos for color care comprise<br />

25% of all category sales.<br />

THE DOWN-UNDER REPORT<br />

In spite of the fact that new markets and a growing population have aided industry demand and<br />

revenue growth and there has been a heightened interest in male grooming that has benefited<br />

the industry over the past five years, https://industryarc.com reports that the Australia is going<br />

through a period of relative stagnation, most likely due to weak household income growth and<br />

declining consumer sentiment that hindered revenue growth over the period. According to www.<br />

mordorintelligence.com, part of the problem may be a highly competitive and mature market<br />

space for hair care, highly unique preferences, and even an increased awareness and tendency to<br />

shun products with one or more harmful ingredients, including silicones.<br />

Moreover, the industry's geographic distribution is very closely correlated with population size<br />

and spread. Hence, hairdressing and beauty salons tend to be located in densely populated areas<br />

where they can have guaranteed access to potential consumers.<br />

According to www.statista.com, the market forecast envirions 0.7% annual growth (CAGR <strong>2019</strong>-<br />

2023), which is in any case much lower than the expected overall global growth of 3.35 – 4.1%.<br />

6 export


as seen in “Best In Italy”


Digital<br />

stories<br />

The <strong>Estetica</strong> global digital network was born<br />

more than twenty years ago to tell your stories.<br />

To all the professionals who want to emerge:<br />

believe in digital, we've got your backs.<br />

Matteo Franceschini Beghini<br />

Digital Executive Manager / <strong>Estetica</strong>Network<br />

Raise your hand if you still have doubts about using the Internet to talk about your work with passion.<br />

Those with your hands raised, if there is anyone, I’m going to tell you a secret: there are very few of you.<br />

It’s true. Today it seems almost impossible to think that just a little over a decade ago there was none of<br />

any of this: Facebook had just be invented by a young Californian, Instagram at the time was going to be<br />

called “Burbn” and used to make reservations rather than photos. Twitter existed, but with no trending<br />

topics. The top of the line mobile phone was the iPhone 3, which did not take selfies (because at the time<br />

they were still called “automatic shutter”), Netflix rented DVDs and Alexa was pure science fiction.<br />

All in all, the world has changed in just ten years and it was absolutely unthinkable that together with<br />

this revolution there would not also be a revolution in communications. Today perhaps it would almost<br />

be unthinkable not to have a profile on social networks, except for those who deliberately intend to<br />

avoid the new digital social forums. Interaction between humans today occurs through these tools in<br />

exactly the same way is passed for millennia only through speech, then through writing, then paper, and<br />

print, the radio, the telephone, the TV... And today the web and social.<br />

This is a technological evolution that - like many others - has created a new model in human relations.<br />

And where there is a new way of communicating, there is also a new language for telling stories. Perhaps<br />

one’s own or those belonging to your audience, those that describe one’s own passion, profession,<br />

creativity.<br />

Our magazine latched onto this trend very early: just think that the web as we know it today (www.) was<br />

made public in 1993 and the domain of our first website (estetica.it) was registered in 1996.<br />

Today the <strong>Estetica</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> digital network is the widest and most diversified in the world in its own<br />

sector: no other publisher has available a diffusion of vertical content that covers 20 specialised national<br />

portals (each in the local language, from the United States and Brazil to China and Indonesia, via the main<br />

European nations), just as many official pages of the magazine on Facebook with hundreds of thousands<br />

of professionals who follow our publications from every corner of the globe, an official Instagram<br />

account followed now by more than 200 thousand hair-lovers, to whom we offer up to 14 original<br />

contents daily and who reward us with an engagement rate that is unmatched on the specialised hair<br />

industry panorama. Speaking to such a vast public of hairdressing professionals - stylists obviously, but<br />

also distributors, manufacturers, trainers - is a huge responsibility.<br />

If today there is a rampant buzz of “Influencer marketing”, let us say that we have discovered a new<br />

8 network


definition for a job that we have been carrying out for<br />

decades, first on the precious paper of the magazine and now<br />

for the past twenty years in the real time of the digital world.<br />

A job that has a dual purpose: that of keeping our<br />

professional readers up to date on everything that happens in the global world of hairdressing and that<br />

of guaranteeing that each of them has a secure and reliable context when outside people are battling<br />

over “fake news” to collect a few followers or a few clicks more.<br />

So this is a promise that goes beyond the commitment that we renew daily: whoever works in the digital<br />

world like we do has to crunch numbers every day, sometimes more than once a day.<br />

Discovering that <strong>2019</strong> began with an explosion of results on the profile, reading the numbers in the<br />

editorial at the opening of this issue and the dedicated box - is for us a great satisfaction, but above all it<br />

is the confirmation of the promise we make to our readers: follow us as you have always done and we<br />

will tell you fantastic stories on the world of hairdressing that we love experiencing together with you.<br />

Invest like we do in telling your stories on Instagram, on Facebook, on the web; write to us, tag us,<br />

engage us in your everyday digital and we will always be where we promised to be: at your side, near<br />

those who create beauty, beside hairdressers all over the world.<br />

201 thousand followers 2,412,218 likes<br />

in 2018 for 3,300 posts published<br />

1,760,174 views of InstaStories published<br />

The <strong>Estetica</strong> Facebook page with the most<br />

followers is the Italian one, with +232k followers.<br />

The best content of 2018 reached nearly 870<br />

thousand people and developed more than<br />

25 thousand interactions among users.<br />

The main portal of the <strong>Estetica</strong> Network (estetica.it)<br />

opened <strong>2019</strong> with an encouraging +50% of visits.<br />

The objective for <strong>2019</strong> to extend this success to<br />

all the group's portals worldwide.


as seen in “Best In Italy”


Not just<br />

a pretty face...<br />

More and more women are making headway in the<br />

hairdressing industry in a variety of roles, from salon<br />

owners to educators and entrepreneurs and even top<br />

managers of multinational colossals. Here are a few...<br />

In spite of the fact that women have made great strides in the workplace and in society in<br />

general, inequality persists. The US Census Bureau reports that women earn 80 percent of<br />

what men are paid. Yet, the US Department of Labour estimates that women own close to 10<br />

million businesses, accounting for $1.4 trillion in receipts. There is still a long way to go, but<br />

<strong>Estetica</strong> wanted to give kudos to just a handful of those women who have blazed their own<br />

trails to success in various aspects of the hairdressing industry.<br />

Let's start with the foundation of this business - those behind the chair, making a difference<br />

in their client's lives on a daily basis. In 2015 Kiara Mooney realized she was dissatisfied with<br />

where she was working, so she took the leap and opened a medium size studio located in Sola<br />

Salons with, as she puts it, "...250 square feet, a bucket of lightener and a small number of<br />

Goldwell colors". Today with her fourth and final expansion within Sola, she can say that she<br />

has finally hit her ultimate goal: 1430 square feet of bliss located in the heart of Reading, MA.<br />

"Knowing your numbers & planning for your future is essential for your staff and yourself.<br />

Our salon does over 67% of our sales in color and 87% is finished with a haircut. We’ve<br />

consistently doubled in revenue over the past two years and each stylist has seen an average<br />

growth of 42.6% in gross sales," she explains.<br />

She also confirms the common thread that we've found ties all these women's stories<br />

together: empowering each other. For example, Kiara had always believed that hiring from<br />

within and training your staff from the very moment they are in hair school creates<br />

consistent talent throughout the salon, similar core beliefs and a trusting environment. "One<br />

of the most eye-opening lessons I’ve learned is that you do not need to have the answer or<br />

solution for everything! You have a supportive staff around you that cares about their future<br />

& the future of the salon as a whole! Value them, their suggestions, keep the floor open for<br />

discussion."<br />

This is apparently a strategy that works for both the individual salon owner and those at the<br />

helm of multinational companies. Indeed, Sylvie Moreau, President of Professional Beauty at<br />

Coty, expresses the same sentiment: "Very early on in my career, I recognized the power of<br />

developing people as THE way to achieve business goals and sustainable results. I have<br />

always sought to surround myself with an outstanding and diverse group of people, and<br />

coach my team so they 'thrive' - I believe you rise by lifting others!"<br />

Lucie Doughty, in an interview with JCPenney’s Expert Edge, reflects on her road to success,<br />

business<br />

11


Kiara<br />

Mooney<br />

Owner of Kiara<br />

Mooney Salon &<br />

Spa in Reading,<br />

Massachusetts: "Taking<br />

the leap and opening<br />

my business was one of<br />

the best decisions I ever<br />

made for my career."<br />

Marie Scarano<br />

Sylvie Moreau<br />

President of Professional<br />

Beauty at Coty, Inc. and<br />

member of the Executive<br />

Committee: "If you want to<br />

be in the driver’s seat of your<br />

life, your career path and key<br />

decisions really start with you."<br />

Denise Shedrick<br />

Vice President of Sales and New<br />

Product Development at Stars<br />

Creations (MOP, ABBA and Color<br />

Design brands): "You have to know<br />

what you want and go get it for<br />

yourself."


Beth Bewley<br />

Co Founder and CEO at Eufora<br />

International: "... we must embrace each<br />

day as a new opportunity for progress."<br />

Lucie Doughty<br />

Lucie Doughty, Global<br />

Editorial & Digital Director<br />

at John Paul Mitchell<br />

Systems®, celebrity stylist,<br />

and 3-time NAHA winner:<br />

"This is such an amazing<br />

industry, you can have<br />

anything you desire!"<br />

saying "You have to dream big and have a work ethic behind it to propel yourself to the<br />

next level." She credits another woman - her mom! - for her drive and work ethic. "My<br />

mom drilled into me at an early age, '..stand up, sweep, clean, keep everything in order...'<br />

and I can apply this pattern to everything I do! It keeps me moving forward."<br />

Another pure powerhouse of beauty and inspiration is Beth Bewley, Co-founder and<br />

CEO of Eufora, who summed up her business and life philosophy in her address at the<br />

Eufora Global Connection: "Stand up, speak out, be a changemaker." Beth has always<br />

done just that at the helm of a company that accepts no compromises on quality products<br />

and promotes the value of education. And she manifested her mettle to the world when<br />

her Eufora co-founder and husband Don passed away unexpectedly on the eve of<br />

Eufora's International Vision Quest. Without missing a beat, Beth knew the summit had<br />

to go on, becoming a testimonial and celebration of Don's life and the Eufora family she<br />

believes in so strongly. Indeed, in recent news, Eufora International has launched an<br />

e-commerce profit sharing program to fight unauthorized internet sales and give<br />

unprecedented rewards to partner salons. Says Beth, “We believe it’s our responsibility to<br />

continue to vigorously fight against grey market online sales and to work to ensure that<br />

retail profits remain in our loyal salons."As she said in her speech, “Be the change you<br />

wish to see in the world”, and she certainly is.<br />

business<br />

13


Other women, like Denise Shedrick, now VP of Sales and Product Development at Stars<br />

Creations, send messages of self-reliance. She remembers starting out when the industry<br />

was very much a "boys' club" and being intimidated by a male executive who questioned<br />

her results. "That was a pivotal moment in my career," she shares, "I was determined to<br />

show him how good I was and I won that war." "Kick your own ass!" she says bluntly,<br />

"No one else is going to train you, teach you, motivate you or give you the tools and<br />

resources to do it. Only you can."<br />

This is very much like the lesson about making lemonade from the lemons that life might<br />

hand us. Jennie Wolff, VP Marketing and Education of Sola Salon Studios fondly<br />

remembers advice her first-ever boss gave her: "Find the lessons in every difficult<br />

situation. It’s important to find gratitude for the people who challenge you the most<br />

because those are the people who make you stronger. They are your teachers."<br />

Kim Bennett, Cultural Ambassador, salon owner and Senior National Educator for Paul<br />

Mitchell also believes in being driven by adversity. "A quote that has guided me through<br />

every big decision is 'You have to get uncomfortable to grow' ... If it is a risk, a leap of faith<br />

or simply making a choice, believe in yourself and do it!"<br />

"It’s OK to take a step backwards or sideways in order to make a giant leap forward,"<br />

Wolff reminds us. "Find a mentor and be a mentor, no one in business is beneath you.<br />

You can learn lessons for everyone around you; everyone who comes into your life and<br />

career is your teacher. 'A flower does not compete with the flower next to it'; it just<br />

blooms. Women can empower other women without feeling threatened."<br />

Kim Bennett<br />

Kim Bennett, Cultural<br />

Ambassador, salon owner and<br />

Senior National Educator for<br />

Paul Mitchell: "... my clients...<br />

are my biggest advocates and<br />

cheer me on constantly. They<br />

truly feel a part of my salon and<br />

the culture I created!"<br />

Jennie Wolff<br />

VP Marketing and<br />

Education of Sola<br />

Salon Studios: "I<br />

have never waited<br />

for opportunities<br />

to be presented to<br />

me, I have created<br />

them. "<br />

14 business


as seen in “Best In Italy”


as seen in “Best In Italy”<br />

www.studiokey.it<br />

FOR YOUR HAIR,<br />

BEYOND NATURE<br />

SLS FREE - SLES FREE - MINERAL OIL FREE -<br />

PARABEN FREE - COLORANTS FREE SILICONES FREE -<br />

ALLERGEN FREE FRAGRANCE/FRAGRANCE FREE FORMULA - ORGANIC EXTRACTS<br />

100% MADE IN ITALY<br />

www.everygreen.it


MODA<br />

INT’L<br />

Hair: Cotril<br />

BEYOND THE<br />

FRINGE


Hair: Fudge Professional


BEYOND THE<br />

FRINGE<br />

ALL HAIL THE FRINGE! Long live the fringe! The queen of this season has actually never<br />

stepped down from her throne. The fringe continues to hold the power to astonish and charm.<br />

Short-short is the must trend for this spring (even for him!), but so short that it cannot<br />

possibily go unnoticed. With irregular edges, full and round, long over the eyes, snipped or<br />

curtain-style, they must attract attention. And if not the cut, the color will add oomph: from<br />

the most natural to the most audacious, and everything in between.<br />

VIVA LA FRANGIA, lunga vita alla frangia! Regina di questa stagione, in realtà non<br />

abbandona il trono da tempo ormai. Eppure riesce sempre a stupire e ad affascinare.<br />

Corta corta è il trend must per questa primavera (persino per lui), ma l’importante è che si noti.<br />

Dai bordi irregolari, piena e rotonda, lunga sugli occhi, sfilata o a tendina, deve attirare<br />

attenzione in ogni caso. E se non è il taglio, a donare carattere sarà il colore: dal più naturale<br />

al più audace, passando per i pastelli.<br />

LANG LEBE DER PONY, ein Hoch auf den Pony! Er steht im Mittelpunkt dieser Saison, doch<br />

eigentlich schon seit geraumer Zeit. Schafft er es doch immer wieder zu begeistern und zu<br />

faszinieren. Der absolute Trend für diesen Frühling ist die kurze Variante (auch für ihn), das<br />

Wichtigste ist aber, dass er auffällt. Mit unregelmäßigen Konturen, voll und rund, lang über die<br />

Augen, verrutscht oder ins Gesicht hängend, er muss in jedem Fall Aufmerksamkeit erregen.<br />

Und wenn nicht der Schnitt, dann gibt die Farbe den nötigen Charakter: von natürlich bis<br />

gewagt, die Pastelltöne rauf und runter.<br />

VIVE LA FRANGE ! Longue vie à la frange ! Reine de la saison, même si, en réalité, elle domine<br />

depuis longtemps désormais. Et pourtant, elle parvient toujours à nous étonner, à nous fasciner.<br />

Ultra courte, c’est le must have de ce printemps (même pour lui !) mais, l’important, c’est qu’on<br />

la remarque. Aux bords irréguliers, abondante, arrondie, tombant sur les yeux, effilée ou rideau,<br />

elle doit attirer l’attention. Et si ce n’est pas la coupe, ce sera la couleur qui lui donnera du<br />

caractère : de la plus naturelle à la plus audacieuse, en passant par les tons pastel.<br />

¡VIVA EL FLEQUILLO, larga vida al flequillo! Rey de esta temporada, en realidad no<br />

abandona el trono desde hace tiempo. Y, sin embargo consigue siempre sorprender y fascinar.<br />

Corto corto es la tendencia must para esta primavera (incluso para él), pero lo importante es<br />

que se note. Con bordes irregulares, lleno y redondo, largo sobre los ojos, desfilado o a cortina,<br />

en cualquier caso tiene que llamar la atención. Y si no es el corte, dará carácter el color: del más<br />

natural al más audaz, pasando por los tonos pastel.


Artistic Direction: Angelo Seminara<br />

Photo: Andrew O’Toole<br />

Make-up: Daniel Kolaric<br />

Products: Davines


Hair: Revlon Professional


BEYOND THE<br />

FRINGE<br />

Hair: Robert Masciave<br />

Photo: Robert Aguilar<br />

Make-up: Sascha Rai


Hair: Jamie Hill<br />

Photo: Richard Miles<br />

Make-up: Penelope Gwen<br />

Styling: Jamie Hill Salon


BEYOND THE<br />

FRINGE<br />

Hair: Detlef Gehlhaar<br />

Photo: John Rawson<br />

Make-up: Susan Voss Redfern<br />

Styling: Tim Hartley


Hair: Angelo Seminara<br />

Photo: Andrew O’Toole<br />

Make-up: Laura Dominique<br />

Styling: Lotta Aspenberg<br />

DARK<br />

INSIDE


Hair: Alan Simpson &<br />

Karen Storr-Simpson<br />

@ Contemporary Hairdressing<br />

Photo: John Rawson<br />

Make-up: Maddie Austin<br />

Styling: Jarred Green


Hair: Anna Pacitto @ Salon Pure/Photo: Ara Sassoonian Hair: Rainbow Room International Artistic Team/Photo: John Rawson Hair & Colour: Viktoriia Vradii/Photo: Tatiana Kizeeva<br />

Artistic Direction & Concept:<br />

Luigi Martini for Sens.ùs<br />

Photo: Mauro Mancioppi<br />

Make-up: Raffaella Tabanelli<br />

Fashion Stylist: Luca Termine<br />

SHORT-SHORT, THICKLY SEPARATED<br />

FOR A TOOTHY GRAPHIC EFFECT.<br />

CONTRASTING OR TECHNICOLOR HUES


BEYOND THE<br />

FRINGE<br />

Hair & Colour:<br />

Rodney Wayne Artistic Team<br />

Photo: Steven Chee<br />

Make-up & Styling: Amy Fiebig


Hair: Elise Antoine<br />

Photo: Weronika Kosinska<br />

Make-up: Izabela Szelagowska<br />

Styling: Waleria Tokarzewska<br />

SOFT<br />

WAVES


Hair: Darren Ambrose<br />

Colour: Clayde Baumann<br />

Photo: Chris Bulezuik<br />

Make-up: Katie Moore & Georgina Scholtz<br />

Styling: Jackie Ambrose


BEYOND THE<br />

FRINGE<br />

Hair: Creative Team<br />

Intercoiffure France<br />

Photo: Pascal Latil<br />

Make-up: Mariana Miteva<br />

Styling: Véronique Suchet


ROUGH<br />

Hair:<br />

‘N’ READY<br />

André Delahaigue<br />

for Maniatis Paris<br />

Colour: Pamela Frangopoulos<br />

Photo: Laurent Darmon<br />

Make-up: Aline Schmitt<br />

Styling: Claire Sybille


BEYOND THE<br />

FRINGE<br />

Hair: Aline Legoupil<br />

Photo: Weronika Kosinska<br />

Make-up: Izabela Szelagowska<br />

Styling: Waleria Tokarzewska


Hair: Leonardo Rizzo for Alter Ego Italy/Colour: Sharon Cox &<br />

Mario Farinelli for Alter Ego Italy/Photo: Andrew O’Toole<br />

Hair: Elise Antoine/Photo: Weronika Kosinska<br />

Hair: Gen Itoh for TIGI Bed Head/Colour: Warren Boodaghian<br />

for TIGI copyright©olour/Photo: Alex Barron-Hough<br />

Hair: Christophe Gaillet<br />

Photo: Weronika Kosinska


Artistic Direction: Luigi Martini for Sens.ùs/Photo: Mauro Mancioppi<br />

Hair: Cicciput Unse Tratem/Photo: Lorem Ipsum Dolor<br />

Make-up:Adusmater Duretraio/Styling:Bauhaus Riputer<br />

Hair: Cotril<br />

OPEN TO INTERPRETATION, THE<br />

CURTAIN FRINGE IS UPDATED. OR OPTS<br />

FOR JUST ONE BIG-VOLUME BODY


BEYOND THE<br />

FRINGE<br />

Hair: Goldwell Color Zoom ‘19<br />

Creative Team<br />

Photo: Ralph Mecke<br />

Make-up: Loni Baur<br />

Styling: Ingo Nahrwold


Art Direction: Bruno Marc<br />

Hair: Altin Ismaili<br />

Photo: Richard Miles Photography<br />

Make-up: Katie Moore<br />

Styling: Ellen Spiller


BEYOND THE<br />

FRINGE<br />

Hair: Silas &<br />

Dorothy Tsang - Blushes<br />

Photo: John Rawson<br />

Make-up: Lan Grealis


Hair: Metropolis Hairdressing Art Team<br />

Colour: Ceri Cushen & Katy Brereton<br />

Photo: Robert Masciave<br />

Make-up: Sascha Rai


Art Direction: Bruno Marc<br />

Hair: Marc Antoni Artistic Team<br />

Photo: Richard Miles Photography<br />

Make-up: Katie Moore<br />

Styling: Ellen Spiller


BEYOND THE<br />

FRINGE<br />

Hair: Alan Simpson and<br />

Karen Storr-Simpson<br />

@ Contemporary Hairdressing<br />

Make-up: Maddie Austin<br />

Photo: John Rawson<br />

Styling: Jarred Green<br />

MULLET<br />

VIBES


Hair: Gandini Team Hair Stylist<br />

Photo: Paulo Renftle<br />

Make-up: Monica Ricciardi<br />

Styling: Giuseppe Dicecca<br />

Products: Vitality’s


Hair: JPMS Artistic Team<br />

Photo: Ben Cope<br />

Make-up: Fiona Stiles<br />

Styling: Martina Nilsson<br />

Products: Paul Mitchell<br />

BEYOND THE<br />

FRINGE


Hair: ZV Friseurhandwerk<br />

Hair: Essential Looks by Schwarzkopf Professional<br />

Hair: Leonardo Rizzo<br />

for Alter Ego Italy<br />

Colour: Sharon Cox &<br />

Mario Farinelli for Alter Ego Italy<br />

Photo: Andrew O’Toole<br />

Hair: Christophe Gaillet<br />

Photo: Weronika Kosinska


Artistic Direction & Concept: Luigi Martini for Sens.ùs/Photo: Mauro Mancioppi<br />

Make-up: Raffaella Tabanelli/Fashion Stylist: Luca Termine<br />

FRINGES ARE BLOOMING LIKE SPRING<br />

FLOWERS, IN NATURAL OR PASTEL HUES<br />

COMBINED WITH TOUSLED STYLING<br />

Hair: Aline Legoupil/Photo: Weronika Kosinska<br />

Hair: Revlon Professional


BEYOND THE<br />

FRINGE<br />

Hair: Scott Frazer Halsey<br />

@ Clipso Watford<br />

Photo: Jamie Blanshard<br />

Make-up: Ellen K Bridger<br />

Styling: Rubina Marchiori


Hair: Gina Conway<br />

Photo: Desmond Murray<br />

Make-up: Jo Sugar<br />

Styling: Lamis Khamis


Hair: James Calabria<br />

@ Franco’s of Canberra<br />

Photo: Sven Kovac<br />

Make-up: Nicole Abelahm<br />

Styling: Emma Lightbown


Hair: Gandini Team Hair Stylist<br />

Photo: Paulo Renftle<br />

Make-up: Monica Ricciardi<br />

Styling: Giuseppe Dicecca<br />

Products: Vitality’s<br />

BEYOND THE<br />

FRINGE


Hair: Goldwell Color Zoom ‘19<br />

Creative Team<br />

Photo: Ralph Mecke<br />

Make-up: Loni Baur<br />

Styling: Ingo Nahrwold


Hair & Colour: Vanessa Giani, Jean-Jaques Ayache,<br />

Martyn Foss-Calder/Photo: Lauret Darmon Hair: Rainbow Room International Artistic Team/Photo: John Rawson<br />

Hair: OMC Prestige Club Creative Team/Photo: Ignat Shumilin<br />

Hair: Rainbow Room International Artistic Team<br />

Photo: John Rawson/Make-up: Maddie Austin/Styling: Claire Frith<br />

PERFECTLY ROUNDED. TOO PREDICTABLE?<br />

NOT IF THERE IS A HEFTY HUE OR FEISTY<br />

CONTRASTS TO KEEP THINGS INTERESTING.


BEYOND THE<br />

FRINGE<br />

Hair: ZV Friseurhandwerk


Hair & Colour:<br />

Rodney Wayne Artistic Team<br />

Photo: Steven Chee<br />

Make-up & Styling: Amy Fiebig<br />

VINTAGE<br />

ECHOES


Hair: Artistic Team Vog Coiffure<br />

Geoffrey Tentiller, Alexandra Dieu,<br />

Florent Debruxelles<br />

Photo: Weronika Kosinska<br />

Make-up: Izabela Szelagowska<br />

Styling: Waleria Tokarzewska<br />

Products: L’Oréal Professionnel,<br />

Kérastase


Hair: JPMS Artistic Team<br />

Photo: Ben Cope<br />

Make-up: Fiona Stiles<br />

Styling: Martina Nilsson<br />

Products: Paul Mitchell<br />

BEYOND THE<br />

FRINGE


Congratulations to the<br />

<strong>2019</strong><br />

NAHA WINNERS<br />

The North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) celebrated its 30th anniversary in Long Beach, California,<br />

recognizing the vision, skill and passion of the USA & Canada beauty professionals and artists who entered this<br />

prestigious photographic competition. The esteemed event was held Saturday, January 26th at the Long Beach<br />

Convention Center during ISSE, a first in the award show’s 30-year history. NAHA celebrates the industry’s<br />

leading talent and features 16 categories of excellence across hair, make-up, and nail artistry, including the<br />

coveted Hairstylist of the Year Award! Here’s our tribute to the best of the best in North America – for a<br />

complete overview of <strong>2019</strong> NAHA, please visit www.esteticamagazine.com<br />

I North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) hanno celebrato il 30° anniversario a Long Beach, in California,<br />

premiando vision, abilità e passione dei professionisti e artisti della bellezza americani e canadesi che hanno<br />

partecipato a questo prestigioso concorso fotografico. L’evento si è tenuto sabato 26 gennaio presso il Long<br />

Beach Convention Center durante ISSE, per la prima volta nei 30 anni di storia del premio. NAHA celebra i<br />

talenti leader del settore e presenta 16 categorie di eccellenza capelli, trucco e nail, incluso l’ambito premio<br />

Hairstylist of the Year! Ecco il nostro contributo al meglio del meglio del Nord America - per una panoramica<br />

completa dei NAHA <strong>2019</strong>: www.esteticamagazine.com<br />

Die North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) feierten ihr 30-jähriges Bestehen in Long Beach, Kalifornien und<br />

würdigten damit die Vision, das Können und die Leidenschaft der amerikanischen und kanadischen Fachleute<br />

und Schönheitskünstler, die an diesem prestigeträchtigen Fotowettbewerb teilnahmen. Die angesehene<br />

Veranstaltung fand am Samstag, den 26. Januar, im Long Beach Convention Center während der ISSE statt,<br />

einer Premiere in der 30-jährigen Geschichte der Award-Show. NAHA würdigt die besten Talente der Branche<br />

und umfasst 16 Kategorien für Spitzenleistungen in den Bereichen Haare, Make-up und Nagelkunst, darunter<br />

den begehrten Hairstylist of the Year Award! Hier ist unsere Hommage an die Besten der Besten in Nordamerika<br />

– für einen vollständigen Überblick über die NAHA <strong>2019</strong>, besuchen Sie bitte www.esteticamagazine.com.<br />

Les North American Hairstyling Awards (les NAHA) ont célébré leur 30e anniversaire à Long Beach, en<br />

Californie, en récompensant la vision, l’expertise et la passion des professionnels et des artistes de la beauté<br />

américains et canadiens qui ont participé à ce prestigieux concours de photo. L’évènement s’est tenu le<br />

samedi 26 janvier auprès du Long Beach Convention Center au cours des ISSE, grande première en 30 ans<br />

d’histoire du prix. Les NAHA rendent hommage aux grands talents du secteur et présentent 16 catégories<br />

d’excellence de la coiffure, du maquillage et des ongles, y compris le prix très convoité du Meilleur coiffeur de<br />

l’année ! Voici notre contribution au meilleur de l’Amérique du Nord. Pour un panorama complet des NAHA<br />

<strong>2019</strong>, rendez-vous sur www.esteticamagazine.com.<br />

Los North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) celebraron su 30º aniversario en Long Beach, California,<br />

reconociendo la visión, el talento y la pasión de los profesionales de la belleza de USA y Canadá que se<br />

presentaron a esta prestigiosa competición fotográfica. El magno evento tuvo lugar el sábado 26 de enero en<br />

el Long Beach Convention Center durante la feria ISSE, por primera vez en los 30 años de historia de los<br />

premios. NAHA premia al talento más destacado de la industria a través de 16 categorias incluyendo cabello,<br />

maquillaje y uñas, destacando el distinguido premio Hairstylist of the Year! Este es nuestro tributo a los mejores de<br />

la peluquería norteamericana – para una visión completa de los NAHA <strong>2019</strong>, visite www.esteticamagazine.com


HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR<br />

JULIE VRIESINGA @ Salon Entrenous<br />

Photo: Paula Tizzard/Styling: Julie Vriesinga/Make-up: Florenica Taylor


AVANT GARDE<br />

MICHELLE O’CONNOR @ Salon by In Style JCP<br />

Photo: Roberto Ligresti/Styling: Nikko Kefalas/Make-up: Joanne Gair


MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR<br />

PETE GOUPIL<br />

Photo: Jordan Holloway/Styling: Alicia Leclerc /Make-up: Marika D’Auteuil


HAIRCUTTING<br />

LORI ZABEL @ Dop Dop Salon<br />

Photo: Babak/Styling: Pascal et Jeremie/Make-up: Marie-Laure Larrieu & Gwendoline Carcal


HAIRCOLOR<br />

CHRYSTOFER BENSON<br />

Photo: John Rawson/Styling: Hannah Leigh/Make-up: Danielle Donahue


STYLING & FINISHING<br />

SARAJANE MAPLES @ Studio Sage<br />

Photo: Daryna Barykina/Make-up: Jill Rae Bogers


NEWCOMER STYLIST OF THE YEAR<br />

JESSE ERVIN @ Civello Salon<br />

Photo: Natasha Gerschon/Make-up: Hassan Haque


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@esteticamagazine


as seen in “Best In Italy”


▲<br />

The Mary Quant Beauty bus, 1971 © INTERFOTO Alamy Stock Photo.jpg<br />

Mary Quant<br />

and the revolution<br />

Creative, innovative, always one step ahead: she’s the star of<br />

an exhibition in London that focuses on her extraordinary talent.<br />

▲<br />

▲<br />

Mary Quant selecting fabric, 1967 © Rolls Press/<br />

Popperfoto/Getty Images<br />

Mary Quant, with Vidal Sassoon, photograph<br />

by Ronald Dumont, c.1967. © Ronald Dumont/<br />

Stringer/Getty Images<br />

Mary Quant, photograph by Ronald Dumont,<br />

c.1967. (C) adoc-photos/Corbis Premium<br />

Historical/Getty Images<br />

66 exhibition


Kellie Wilson wearing tie dress by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group. Photograph by Gunnar Larsen, 1966. © Gunnar Larsen<br />

Model holding a Bazaar bag c.1959 © Mary Quant Archive<br />

Satin mini-dress and shorts by Mary Quant, photograph by Duffy, 1966 © Duffy Archive<br />

She was the queen of Carnaby Street at a time when London became the most influential<br />

city in terms of street fashion. In the '60s, Mary Quant had the world at her feet. Known for<br />

launching the miniskirt and the iconic bob sculpted by co-legend, Vidal Sasson, some of<br />

the most iconic images from Swinging London will be at the centre of an exhibition at the<br />

Victoria & Albert Museum from April 6th. It’s an experience through which visitors can<br />

connect with the ethos of a character who not only launched fashion trends, but trail-blazed a<br />

whole new lifestyle – one which remains fixed in the psyche of the British public to this day.<br />

Mary Quant and models at the Quant Afoot footwear collection launch, 1967 © PA Prints 2008<br />

personaggio<br />

125


as seen in “Best In Italy”<br />

Milano, Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci<br />

#ALFAPARFPEOPLE<br />

DREAM LIKE LEONARDO<br />

NEW CONCEPTS OF RED, BLONDE AND BROWN.<br />

6 ORIGINAL EVOLUTION OF THE COLOR 3 SHADES<br />

DISCOVER THE STORY ON ALFAPARFMILANO.COM


Alexander McQueen<br />

Spring<br />

Summer<br />

<strong>2019</strong><br />

Hair<br />

Accessorised or sculptural. Retro surprises<br />

turn on a futuristic flair. Hair is the master of<br />

the unexpected - even from the runway. Laura Castelli<br />

Courrèges<br />

Pam Hogg<br />

Giorgio Armani<br />

Dries Van Noten<br />

Catwalks Photos: IMAXtree.com/Andrea Adriani<br />

catwalks<br />

69


as seen in “Best In Italy”


Great attention is paid to hair detail on the spring/summer<br />

’19 runways. Braids and fringes are again brought to the<br />

fore. Alongside quirky top-knots sit micro-plaits, partings<br />

and asymmetric shapes throughout. Are with thinking<br />

smooth, too? Yes, but it’s really subtle!<br />

Fendi<br />

GCDS<br />

The Blonds<br />

Byblos<br />

Badgley Mischka<br />

Miu Miu<br />

Gareth Pugh<br />

Versace<br />

Chloé<br />

adloremter catwalks<br />

125 71


as seen in “Best In Italy”


Anrealage<br />

Transform the every-day into the extraordinary! Take a<br />

maxi-thimble, nonchalantly worn as a hat. Wear avant-garde<br />

masks and look like a queen. Show off bulky headbands on<br />

minimalist hair, overcoming the boundaries of reality while<br />

enjoying every step. Oh there are flowers... just for a tease!<br />

Luisa Beccaria<br />

Gareth Pugh<br />

Dolce&Gabbana<br />

Tianyi Li<br />

Anrealage<br />

Maison Margiela<br />

Moschino<br />

Dior<br />

catwalks<br />

73


as seen in “Best In Italy”


Loewe Rodarte<br />

Dolce&Gabbana<br />

Delpozo<br />

Prada<br />

Rodarte<br />

Headbands, flowers, silk<br />

scarves as jewels: the new<br />

dialect of spring hair<br />

Laura Biagiotti<br />

Esteban Cortazar<br />

Ultrachic<br />

catwalks<br />

75


as seen in “Best In Italy”<br />

IT'S JUST A MATTER OF STYLE<br />

G.V.F. - GIVIEFFE S.p.A. | c/o BioLife Medical and Beauty Center<br />

via Giovanni Falcone, 8/35 | 20080 Vernate | Milan | Italy | T +39 02 90093743 | Fax +39 02 90093740<br />

www.itelyhairfashion.it | www.revivre.it | www.patriciami.it | www.revipharma.it


John Paul Mitchell Systems<br />

Making a<br />

difference<br />

It’s going to take time and effort to save our planet. These<br />

are just a few ways we can take baby steps to make<br />

more conscientious choices in the world of hairdressing.<br />

Marie Scarano<br />

There is growing demand for natural and healthy ingredients such as vitamins and botanicals, while<br />

certain ingredients perceived as more “artificial”, like parabens, triclosan, sulphates and silicones, are under<br />

the spotlight due to health and safety concerns. Brands looking to meet consumer demands are marketing<br />

products that look delicious enough to eat, containing recognisable ingredients such as avocado or honey,<br />

as part of the daily hair care routine. Environmentally savvy consumers are also demanding more of manufacturing<br />

companies, seeking out those who apply sustainable production practices, no-animal cruelty,<br />

water conservation, responsible corporate policies, and the ethical sourcing of raw ingredients.<br />

dossier<br />

77


Lea St. Germain Photography<br />

Greenery<br />

Even just surrounding ourselves in natural<br />

materials and plants can uplift the spirit.<br />

Like many others, for her Salon & Spa in<br />

Reading Massachusetts, Kiara Mooney<br />

opted for earthy brickwork, wood accents<br />

and lots of lush greenery to bring a touch of<br />

the outdoors inside.<br />

More and more salons are opting for<br />

sustainable materials and construction<br />

methods, including energy-saving systems<br />

(solar panels, more efficient heating/cooling<br />

systems and appliances, etc) to save both<br />

money and the planet.<br />

Committed<br />

For 30 years, ABBA® Pure<br />

Performance Hair Care has<br />

made a commitment to purity,<br />

formulating 100% vegan,<br />

cruelty-free and gluten-free<br />

products using plant-derived<br />

botanicals and the cleanest<br />

ingredients available - while<br />

never sacrificing the highstandard<br />

of performance its<br />

salon customers demand.<br />

Each product is free from<br />

toxic additives while gentle<br />

natural surfactants protect<br />

hair and maintain luscious<br />

color.<br />

Back<br />

to nature<br />

ECRU is another prestige<br />

brand that pays constant<br />

attention to the ingredients<br />

in its products. For example,<br />

this New York Dry Shampoo<br />

contains charcoal, a powerful<br />

detoxifier that draws out<br />

bacteria, impurities, toxins,<br />

pollutants and dirt; Aloe<br />

Barbadensis Leaf Juice for<br />

its healing and soothing<br />

properties, to help calm and<br />

refresh the scalp; chamomile<br />

for its anti-inflammatory<br />

properties, as it refreshes and<br />

soothes skin.


Natural<br />

materials<br />

The Olivia Garden EcoHair<br />

Collection uses a new<br />

proprietary bamboo technology<br />

with an anti-slip grip and<br />

ergonomic handle that is softer,<br />

more durable, and easier for<br />

styling. And because bamboo<br />

is a 100% natural renewable<br />

resource, unlike wood, these<br />

brushes help preserve other<br />

natural forests and their<br />

surrounding eco-systems. The<br />

brush design also features a<br />

ceramic coated barrel that works<br />

to heat faster and retain heat<br />

longer, to help shorten styling<br />

time and save energy, too.<br />

For example, John Paul Mitchell Systems Tea Tree line (featuring botanical ingredients) continues its<br />

partnership with Reforest Action to plant a total of 750,000 trees by the end of <strong>2019</strong>. Over the course of their<br />

lifespans, those trees will remove 85,000 tons of CO2 from the atmosphere. Eufora's goal is to “Create Good<br />

Global Karma” through ecological harvesting, respecting and maintaining the environment their raw materials<br />

come from; socially fair practices that deliver positive benefits to the communities that grow, produce and<br />

live in the area from which materials are harvested; and economically fair trade with processes that align in<br />

value with costs to ensure fair demand for materials. Another “green giant”, Aveda was born cruelty-free,<br />

and by 2020 all of its formulations will be 100% vegan by removing all beeswax, honey and beeswax-derived<br />

ingredients from its products. Moreover, in 2018, Aveda’s annual Earth Month campaign crossed a major<br />

milestone- raising over $60 million over 20 years for environmental and clean water initiatives.<br />

Well-being to “better-being”<br />

Much of the “green movement” is founded on the concept of well-being for the planet,<br />

but also in terms of improved holistic approaches to life quality in general... including<br />

less noise! Gamma+ Italia, the iconic leader in the luxury eco-conscious professional<br />

hair dryer, introduces RELAX dryers, which bring down the decibel level (dB) to 64<br />

- 69, to reduce in-salon noise pollution and allow better client communication while<br />

styling. Most importantly, these new “silent” dryers help drastically lower the risk of<br />

long-term hearing loss from constant use close to the head and ears. Moreover, the<br />

Relax line is handmade in an eco-conscious and solar-powered facility!<br />

dossier<br />

79


Reducing waste<br />

Suretint Technologies, the industry<br />

leader in innovative hair color business<br />

technology, have launched LaRu.<br />

Specifically designed for savvy salon<br />

owners, managers and colorists who<br />

want to beautify their bottom line while<br />

more accurately and more efficiently<br />

managing their hair color business,<br />

while eliminating color waste for salon<br />

savings and reduced pollution.<br />

Ethical<br />

Beauty<br />

“Ten years ago I decided to adopt a vegan lifestyle,”co-founder Thom Priano says. “...[and it] made me aware of all the<br />

damage humans have done to our planet as well as the cruelty and torture that we subject to animals—I’ll never turn back.<br />

That’s why I’m proud that R+Co products are now vegan.” Though vegan formulated, all R+Co products retain the same<br />

performance and results that hairstylists have come to know and love.<br />

Recycling<br />

“Recycling is important to who we are!" says Allyson King,<br />

Co-owner of Hair & Co BKLYN, "We believe being part of the<br />

community means ensuring our salon, neighborhood and city<br />

are aware of our carbon footprint and looking for sustainable<br />

solutions to be better as humans.” In other news, KAO, parent<br />

company of Goldwell and KMS hair products, was included<br />

in the Global 100 list of the most sustainable corporations in<br />

the world. Global 100 companies represent the top 1.3% in the<br />

world on sustainability performance.<br />

80 dossier


as seen in “Best In Italy”


FUDGE<br />

PROFESSIONAL<br />

Colour: Sophie Maccorquodale<br />

for Fudge Professional<br />

Cut & Style: Dean Bradwell<br />

for Fudge Professional


COLOUR FORMULAS<br />

Initial hair colour: natural depth 6.0<br />

Dark Blonde Previous Copper Tint<br />

on mid length and ends<br />

Formula A: Headpaint 20g 6.4 + 40g<br />

77.43 + Catalyst Crème Developer 3%<br />

Formula B: Headpaint 40g 77.43 +<br />

Catalyst Crème Developer 6%<br />

Formula C: Speed + & Catalyst Crème<br />

Developer 6%<br />

Formula D: Headpaint 10g 99.43 +<br />

Catalyst Crème Developer no lift<br />

5<br />

6<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

11<br />

7<br />

12<br />

Unlimited colour<br />

possibilities from<br />

Headpaint - packed<br />

with naturally<br />

derived ingredients<br />

for body, texture<br />

and beautiful shine<br />

8<br />

13<br />

CUT<br />

1. Take a triangle section<br />

from the middle parting to<br />

the back of the ear. Leave out<br />

the perimeter in line with the<br />

eyebrow. To create the back<br />

section take a section from the<br />

occipital bone to the back<br />

of the ear, then join the sides<br />

into the front perimeter.<br />

2/3. Cut a guide through the<br />

perimeter starting at the sides<br />

then working around the<br />

head in a circular motion.<br />

4. Create a halo section leaving<br />

out the middle area.<br />

5. Work your way up the back<br />

of the head in horizontal sections.<br />

Using the natural fall, create a<br />

weight line at the back in line<br />

with the jaw.<br />

6. Work in horizontal sections<br />

up one side, following your<br />

guideline from step one.<br />

Repeat on opposite side.<br />

7. Take a vertical 1cm wide<br />

section from the back to use<br />

9<br />

10<br />

as your guide. Pull the hair up 90<br />

degrees and use the short length<br />

as a guide to cut a square layer.<br />

COLOUR<br />

8. Following the sectioning pattern<br />

of the hair cut take the whole back<br />

disconnection as one section.<br />

Divide the front area (cut shorter)<br />

into five sections. Five sections: a<br />

small triangle through the centre<br />

parting, two very fine triangles<br />

below on the front hair line and<br />

two rectangles following the head<br />

shape around the ear.<br />

9. Apply Formula A to the<br />

back section, starting from the<br />

roots and continuing through<br />

to the mid lengths and ends.<br />

10. Apply Formula B to the side<br />

sections starting at the roots and<br />

continuing through to the mid<br />

lengths and ends.<br />

11. Apply Formula B to the<br />

root area of the two fine triangles,<br />

followed by applying Formula<br />

C onto the mid lengths and ends.<br />

12. Finally apply Formula D<br />

onto the centre triangle.<br />

13. Rinse and shampoo the<br />

bleach off the two fine triangle<br />

sections once the desired lift<br />

has been achieved and then<br />

apply Formula D.<br />

step by step<br />

83


director; Angelo Seminara, <strong>2019</strong> International<br />

Hairdresser of the Year; and Lluís Llongueras,<br />

named <strong>2019</strong> International Hair Legend Award.<br />

Best in the World!<br />

International Hairdressing Awards’ first edition takes place in<br />

Madrid, with an inspiring runway show & awards ceremony!<br />

Jim Shaw (UK), Steven Smart (UK), Sylvestre Finold (France/UK), Saco Hair (UK) and Angelo Seminara (Italy/UK) are the<br />

five winners of the <strong>2019</strong> International Hairdressing Awards. Famous Spanish hairdresser Lluís Llongueras was recognized<br />

with the International Hair Legend award, receiving a standing ovation from the thousand professionals from 30 different<br />

countries who attended the great night of the global hairdressing. The event was hosted by Mikel Luzea, Founder and<br />

Director of the International Hairdressing Awards, while the awards ceremony was presented by Sergi Bancells, International<br />

Below, left to right: Mikel Luzea, IHA founder and<br />

<strong>2019</strong> International Hairdressing Awards<br />

finalists, jury, runway teams, sponsors,<br />

and VIP guests gather for a historic image!<br />

84 events<br />

Sassoon


Mikel Luzea Beauty Underground<br />

Revlon Professional<br />

Toni&Guy<br />

Editorial Director at <strong>Estetica</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong>. Sponsored by Revlon, Revlon Professional, Salon<br />

Look-IFEMA and <strong>Estetica</strong> as global media sponsor, the event included an amazing runway<br />

show featuring 7 renowned hair teams: Beauty Underground, Mikel Luzea, Revlon<br />

Professional Global Artistic Team, Sanrizz, Sassoon, Toni&Guy and X-Presion. Get all<br />

the action, videos & many more at our website + @esteticamagazine Instagram page!<br />

X-Presion<br />

MEET ALL <strong>2019</strong> IHA WINNERS!<br />

Jim Shaw – Best International Men’s Commercial Collection<br />

Steven Smart – Best International Women’s Commercial Collection<br />

Sylvestre Finold – Best International Avant-Garde Collection<br />

Saco Hair – International Artistic Team of the Year<br />

Angelo Seminara – International Hairdresser of the Year<br />

Sanrizz


BEST IN ITALY<br />

AN EXCLUSIVE<br />

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MADE IN ITALY<br />

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Cover Best in Germany corretta.indd 1 25/07/18 14:51<br />

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BESTINSPAIN<br />

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BIF2_Cover Best in France 2018.indd 1 27/04/18 11:30


Each Export Manager<br />

keeps his secret to success.<br />

The world seems smaller if someone is ready to<br />

help you reach a new horizon. Born in Italy, for<br />

25 years we have been an international network<br />

with distribution relationships on all continents.<br />

Today we are a global partner for every player<br />

in the world of beauty. Even for you.<br />

The global beauty industry partner.<br />

Now out with printed<br />

and digital issues of Italy,<br />

Germany, USA, France and Spain.<br />

Soon Asia and Brazil.


PRESENTED BY<br />

OMC <strong>WORLD</strong> CUP • PARIS <strong>2019</strong><br />

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C<br />

PAGINA ESTETICA alta.pdf 1 20/04/18 as 10:07seen in “Best In Italy”<br />

M<br />

Y<br />

CM<br />

MY<br />

CY<br />

CMY<br />

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as seen in “Best In Italy”<br />

210x300.indd 1 25/10/18 11:13


Headpaint<br />

Speed + Gel Toners<br />

■ Clean Blonde Violet Luxe Lightener<br />

■ Tingle-free<br />

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■ 22% less breakage<br />

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■ Free from ammonia, PPD and parabens<br />

■ 85% more shine *<br />

*versus a market leading bleach<br />

*clinical study, In comparison to bleached hair<br />

Find your stockist at: Fudgeprofessional.com<br />

Fudgehair


Break<br />

the rules!<br />

Unlimited colour<br />

possibilities with<br />

the new Headpaint<br />

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New Fudge Professional<br />

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looking for great shine and<br />

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T<br />

he new Fudge<br />

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System Technology<br />

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to ensure that the hair’s condition<br />

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Professional Global Head of<br />

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“We’ve added a new Triple<br />

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whilst giving it an extra boost of<br />

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Fudge Professional also ensures you<br />

embrace colour that cares and<br />

nourishes; Hydrolysed Rice<br />

Proteins’ penetrates the hair’s cortex<br />

to replenish protein, Wheat Germ<br />

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Seed Oil creates a protective barrier<br />

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rejuvenate colour<br />

vibrancy, and replenish<br />

shine and softness, whilst colourcorrecting<br />

micro-droplets help to<br />

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maintain shade integrity and<br />

vibrancy between salon visits, for up<br />

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NO-BLEACH BLONDES<br />

“Whether its Prism Light effect or<br />

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KINDER BLEACHES<br />

“Our pioneering new Violet Luxe<br />

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our most conditioning bleach yet.<br />

What amazed me during the testing<br />

process was it’s tingle-free and fumefree<br />

application; it really improves<br />

the client experience in a busy salon.”<br />

The formula lifts up to 7 levels, as<br />

Creatine rebuilds and strengthens<br />

hair from within, while Baobab Oil’s<br />

fatty acids and vitamins nourish the<br />

hair to add brightness and shine.<br />

ROOT TO TIP<br />

NOURISHMENT<br />

“We’ve also introduced 3 new Gel<br />

Toners all free from Ammonia, PPD<br />

and Parabens. For clients who love<br />

bleach application, they also contain<br />

Calendula flower extract to help<br />

soothe the scalp afterwards, so are<br />

the perfect option for colourists who<br />

like to push their creativity,”<br />

concludes Tracy.<br />

Created for the specialist looking for<br />

great shine, nourished hair, and perfect<br />

results, the new Fudge Professional<br />

Headpaint colour line is the most<br />

versatile and easy to use, yet.<br />

To order Fudge Professional for<br />

your salon call 020 7845 6333<br />

or visit fudgeprofessional.com<br />

*when using Fudge Professional Damage Rewind<br />

Shampoo and Conditioner<br />

products<br />

93


as seen in “Best In Italy”<br />

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as seen in “Best In Italy”<br />

From the Old English traditional Men’s grooming<br />

pagina best in italy <strong>2019</strong>.indd 1 07/02/19 14:39


Hair: Angelo Seminara<br />

Photo: Andrew O’Toole<br />

Make-up: Laura Dominique<br />

Stylist: Lotta Aspenberg<br />

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