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EUROPE<br />

THE MAIN RIVER<br />

A little way south of Rüdesheim, river ships<br />

turn left into the Main <strong>River</strong>. This is narrower<br />

and more picturesque than the Rhine but as<br />

there are 34 locks to navigate the sundeck<br />

will be closed most of the time while sailing.<br />

On most vessels that means there will be<br />

limited outside space.<br />

Key attractions along the Main include<br />

Miltenberg, a pretty town with half-timbered<br />

houses and a beautiful Renaissance fountain,<br />

and Würzburg, where city tours usually visit<br />

the baroque Bishop’s Residence to see its<br />

ornate staircases, acres of stucco and one of<br />

the largest frescos ever painted.<br />

A NEW<br />

DIMENSION<br />

IN RIVER CRUISING<br />

NAME<br />

Koblenz, at the confluence<br />

of the Rhine and Moselle, is<br />

recognisable for the enormous<br />

equestrian statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I<br />

at the Deutsches Eck, or German Corner.<br />

Walking tours visit the statue and the narrow<br />

streets, squares and churches in the old city,<br />

but it’s a small place and easy to explore<br />

alone. A cable car goes across the river to the<br />

Ehrenbreitstein fortress, 118 metres above<br />

the river.<br />

Koblenz marks the start of the Rhine Gorge,<br />

the most scenic stretch of the river with more<br />

than 40 castles and fortresses that date back<br />

to the Middle Ages. Cruise directors point<br />

out the sights during the sailing, and also tell<br />

the legend of the Lorelei, a beautiful maiden<br />

said to have thrown herself to her death over a<br />

faithless lover who then lured sailors to their<br />

deaths with her hypnotic singing.<br />

In Rüdesheim, a small town at the<br />

southern end of the gorge, tours visit<br />

Siegfried’s Mechanical Musical Cabinet, an<br />

extraordinary collection of music machines<br />

from years gone by. If that doesn’t appeal,<br />

a cable car goes over the vineyards to the<br />

monumental Germania statue that celebrates<br />

the foundation of the German Empire.<br />

Guides will point out the Drosselgasse - a<br />

narrow street lined with bars, cafés and<br />

souvenir shops.<br />

A few river cruise lines alternatively<br />

offer tours from Würzburg to<br />

Rothenburg. It’s about 45<br />

minutes’ drive away along<br />

what’s known as the<br />

Top tip:<br />

Cabin balconies really come<br />

into their own on cruises on the<br />

Main and Main-Danube Canal<br />

as passengers have their own<br />

outdoor viewing space even<br />

though the sundeck is<br />

closed.<br />

‘Romantic Road’, and<br />

a fairytale-like town<br />

enclosed by thick<br />

walls that’s full of<br />

medieval houses and<br />

has a Christmas shop<br />

that’s open all year.<br />

Cruises also visit<br />

Bamberg, a town famous<br />

for a strange smoked beer and<br />

architectural gems including a town hall<br />

covered with tromp d’oeil frescoes.<br />

THE MAIN-DANUBE CANAL<br />

Bamberg marks the start of the Main-Danube<br />

Canal, a man-made waterway that opened in<br />

1994 to enable ships to sail all the way from<br />

the North Sea to the Black Sea. There are<br />

another 16 locks along the canal so again the<br />

sundeck will be closed most of the time.<br />

The main attraction on the canal is<br />

Nuremberg. Tours go to the Nazi rally<br />

grounds and Documentation Centre in<br />

Hitler’s unfinished Kongresshalle, which<br />

charts the rise of the Nazi party. In the<br />

city, many visit the courtroom where the<br />

war crime trials were held at the end of the<br />

Second World War.<br />

Most river cruise lines stay a day in the city<br />

so there is also time to explore the medieval<br />

centre. A castle, the vast market square, the<br />

Church of our Lady and the local Nuremburg<br />

rostbratwurst are among attractions.<br />

THE DANUBE<br />

At Kelheim, the canal flows into the Danube<br />

<strong>River</strong>. Cruises visit Regensburg, a town with<br />

narrow medieval streets, towers built by<br />

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14 | RIVER DIARY | JANUARY 2019 StowawayMedia.com | 15<br />

ABTA No.Y6393

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