PPS-Book-V5-low

1

CONTENTS
2

Coming Home and Starting School 5
Welcome5
A Happy Home 6
Starting School 18
Love, Guidance and Making Friends 21
Growing up: Your Puppy’s Development 22
Making Friends and New Experiences 23
Puppy Advice 29
puppy Manners 36
Training Tips 37
Sit 39
Down 40
Stay/Wait 42
Come 44
Lead Walking 46
Vet Care and Wellbeing 50
Preventative Health 51
First Aid 52
Nutrition 52
Growth Chart 53
Personal Plan 54
Notes 55
Look for these symbols throughout the book:
HEALTH TIPS STEP
BY STEP
FAMILY
ACTIVITY
Thanks to our partners
3

COMING HOME AND
STARTING SCHOOL
4

WELCOME
Congratulations on the
new addition to your family.
Welcome to puppy school.
We have created a program that will guide you and your family through the fun
and sometimes challenging puppy stages, while teaching your puppy manners
and how to make friends.
Over the next five sessions we will be giving you the tools, along with tips
and tricks, to ensure your puppy becomes a social, happy and confident dog.
Our puppy school is a fun and interactive course designed to not only teach
you how to train your puppy, but also understand what they are trying to
tell you and how they are feeling. Each session combines basic manners and
training with safe, fun and calm socialisation, along with the latest information to
provide the best care in keeping your puppy happy and healthy.
Every puppy and family is different, which is why we will develop a personal
recommendation plan to suit your puppy’s needs and your family’s lifestyle.
We are so excited to be joining you on this journey.
5

A HAPPY HOME
Bringing a puppy home is so exciting
for us, the joy a new puppy brings is
immeasurable. Your puppy, however, may
be a little overwhelmed or unsure of their
new environment away from their parents
and siblings.
Creating an environment that your puppy
will immediately feel comfortable in will
help them overcome some of these big
emotions and develop a strong relationship
from day one.
1. Have your puppy’s space set up.
2. Ensure your home and yard are ‘puppy proofed’ and safe.
3. Allow your puppy time to explore their new home, on their own terms.
4. Provide comfort and love, your puppy may get overwhelmed.
5. Consider the use of pheromones.
6. Keep visitors to a minimum or ask for no visitors until your
puppy has settled in a few days.
7. Agree to house rules as a family.
My puppy’s safe space will be:
6

Remember your
puppy is still very
young and is learning
about the world
around them.
Your puppy’s ‘safe space’
Providing your puppy with a space that they can retreat to and call their own
will help your puppy feel secure and build their confidence.
Your puppy’s space should be a cozy area that they feel 100% safe in and never
be used as a punishment. It is equally important to remember that this area
is for the puppy only, if your puppy retreats to or is sleeping in their safe space
please do not pull them out, they have entered their area for a reason.
A crate is a great way to provide a safe space for your puppy and has many other
uses. There are a variety of ways to create a puppy ‘safe space’. Chat to your
puppy school trainer to discuss what will work best for you and your puppy.
7

Sleeping and comfort
Providing your puppy with a safe, cozy and comfortable sleeping area will mean
you both get a good nights sleep.
Inside or outside, it is vital that your puppy feels safe and comfortable in their
sleeping area and they are provided with everything they need.
Think long term.
Comfortable routines and boundaries are established early. Your snuggly baby
puppy may ideally fit into your bed now but do you want your 30kg retriever in
your bed in 10 years time?
If the answer is YES! Then you are most welcome to have your puppy in bed
with you now. If the answer is NO or MAYBE then it is recommended that you
provide your puppy with his or her own sleeping area.
I want my dog sleeping outside but my puppy is not ready to. What do I do?
If your puppy can fit through your fence, they can get into too much mischief or
you are worried they are simply too young to be by themselves you can create
a transition sleeping area. This transition area is used until your puppy is ready
to move into their normal sleeping area.
Transition areas are small, cozy areas that are safe and can be enclosed, such
as a laundry or crate. You want your puppy to settle into a transition area that
is similar to what their normal sleeping area will be. For example, if you want
your puppy in a kennel outside, a crate set up in the laundry will help with this
transition in the future and create a positive association with the kennel and
crate.
My puppy’s sleeping area is:
My adult dogs sleeping area will be:
8

Crate training
Crate training is an excellent way to provide your puppy with a safe space
as well as a great tool to assist in toilet training, safety and travel, and
independent sleep and play.
1. Never punish your puppy by sending them to their crate for ‘timeout’.
2. Always have the crate open and available for your puppy when
confinement is not needed.
Introducing your puppy to their crate.
3. Do not rush the process or force your puppy into the crate.
4. If your puppy will be in the crate for an extended period of time
ensure they have access to water.
9

1. Set up the crate with a bed and toy inside with the door open.
2. Allow your puppy to explore the crate, on his or her own terms,
for a few days.
3. Encourage your puppy into the crate by placing treats inside or
playing a game by throwing a toy inside.
4. Give lots of praise every-time they go into the crate.
5. Repeat this process until your puppy happily goes into the
crate.
Once your puppy is comfortable going into their crate.
1. When your puppy enters the crate say the cue word ‘crate’ or
‘bed’ and give lots of praise.
2. Encourage extended time in the crate by placing a Kong or
similar chew toy in the crate so your puppy goes in and lies
down to chew on the toy.
Now we are ready to close the crate door and build independence.
If your puppy is seeking out their crate, is happy to lay in it for
extended periods of time or happily falls asleep in there, you may
now start to close the door.
1. Start slowly. Softly close the door and immediately open it.
2. Slowly build up the duration that the door is shut for until your
puppy happily chews on their toy or goes to sleep with the
door shut.
3. Ensure the crate is a positive and safe place to be. Never leave
your puppy in longer than they are comfortable.
4. Your puppy will soon love being in their crate and will actively
seek it out.
Some puppies will seek out a crate or safe space while others will not. If your
puppy is unsure of their crate create a positive association by placing your
puppy’s food and water next to the crate with the door open to start. As with
all training, patience and short positive sessions will produce the best outcome.
Creating ‘Calm’ – The use of pheromones
It is so important to set up your home to create a calm environment, especially
in the first few days. The use of pheromones can assist your puppy’s transition
from life with their mum to their new forever home with you, creating positive
associations with new experiences and helping relive stress.
10

Consider the use of a
pheromone collar for the
first month of your puppy’s
life to help provide comfort
and confidence while your
puppy explores and learns
about the world.
11

Your puppy’s toy box
Creating a fun and interesting environment is key to developing a happy dog
and keeping your backyard in tact. A puppy may be left at home alone for
many hours in a day looking for something to do. If we do not provide an
interesting and stimulating environment our puppies will find their own fun,
typically in the form of destruction, barking or escaping. Further to this, some
puppies may become stressed when left alone which can develop into long
term behavioural problems.
There are many great toys available to teach your puppy about independent
play and help keep them entertained while they are by themselves. Select
products that are made from a safe material, are durable and cannot be
swallowed. Toys such as treat balls, food puzzles and sandpits are just a few of
the products your puppy may love.
Don’t forget to include interactive toys. Interactive toys encourage playtime
between you and your puppy and can double as training sessions as well as
develop your relationship based on fun and love.
1. Rotate your puppy’s toys frequently to keep them engaged.
2. Consider what’s best for your puppy’s individual needs, ensure their
safety and create a fun filled environment. You will quickly learn
what your puppy loves. As an example, most puppies love fluffy
toys, some because they love to snuggle and find it comforting and
others because they love to destroy them!
1.
Enrichment ideas for my puppy:
12

Puppies are curious and love to explore.
It is our responsibility to teach them
what is theirs and what they are not
allowed to play with.
Do not start an accidental game
of ‘chase’ when your puppy has
something they shouldn’t have.
Instead:
1. Pick up one of their toys.
2. Start playing with the toy like it is
the best thing in the world.
3. Swap your puppy their toy for the
item they shouldn’t have.
4. If your puppy doesn’t want to
trade with a toy, try trading with
an edible treat.
5. Praise them and play with them
if it is an interactive toy and they
wish to.
13

Puppy parenting
Our role is to create a positive relationship with our puppy by providing love,
guidance and the necessary resources for a long happy and healthy life.
Guidence
Puppy parenting is about guiding your puppy and creating an environment
that is safe and secure so they can learn and grow, just like a parent. As your
puppy’s parent you need to have realistic expectations, identify the needs of
your puppy and understand your puppy’s body language in order to develop
a strong relationship. A strong lifelong bond is developed through positive
relationships, not fear.
1. Learn puppy body language. Understand
what your puppy is trying to tell you and how
they are feeling.
2. Be aware of your own body language and tone
of voice. A leader does not need to be big,
scary or loud.
3. Be consistent.
4. Clearly guide your puppy. Show them what to
do.
5. Be patient and have realistic expectations for
your puppy’s development stage.
6. Comfort your puppy if they are frightened or
nervous.
7. ‘
Family rules
Your puppy will love to explore your home and is learning the rules of the
family. As loving guardians we need to guide them so they know:
• Where they can and CAN’T go.
• What is theirs and what is not.
• What they can and cannot do.
The first step is to sit down as a family and decide on some rules.
It is so important that you work together as a family unit so your puppy has
consistent, clear and simple boundaries. Having unclear boundaries can lead
to confusion, stress and behaviour concerns.
14
Frightened puppies will
seek your attention
and comfort - Give it
to them to build
their confidence
and trust.

Your puppy may be telling
you more than you think.
A puppy will use their eyes,
face and body to communicate
more than their voice. Learn
about puppy communication
on page 24.
15

1. Be consistent.
2. Everyone in the family must agree to and abide by the family rules.
3. Have yes/no rules.
4. Make it clear and simple for your puppy to understand.
5. Wait until they are older to introduce ‘sometimes’ rules.
6. A puppy does not understand why they are ‘sometimes’ allowed on
the couch.
7. Show them what you want them to do.
8. If your puppy is doing something that you do not want them to do
don’t punish them. Instead show them what you want them to do
and praise them for it.
Your puppy rules should be
simple, realistic and fit into
your lifestyle.
Our family rules are:
16

Nutrition
All puppies need excellent nutrition to ensure they get the best start in life.
These diets are the most consistently formulated and have the most advanced
science behind their recipes. This includes DHA for optimal brain development
which aids learning and development of resilience.Selecting the right food
that suits your puppy’s specific needs is vital. Puppies grow very rapidly and
different breeds will have different nutritional needs. A Border Collie will
require a different food to a Pomeranian to ensure their nutritional needs are
met. We recommend a premium complete and balanced puppy diet for the
best start in life.
As an added benefit, high quality, premium diets create less mess by
reducing the size, frequency and smell of your dogs stools. After all, who
doesn’t want less mess to clean up!
Puppies can become fussy eaters if we feed them human foods, like
table scraps.
Never ‘steal’ food from your puppy or place your hands in their bowl as
this may develop guarding behaviours. If you are concerned with food
related behaviours please speak to your Veterinarian.
How to introduce a new food
Gradually mix the new food with your puppy’s current food in increasing
amounts for at least 7 days, until the new food is the only food being fed.
25% 75% 50% 50% 75% 25% 100%
Day 1-3 Day 4-6 Day 7-9 Day 10
17

Treats should be kept small and be something
that your puppy considers very tasty. If your
puppy is not food motivated, praise, pats or
toys can be used instead.
STARTING
SCHOOL
Starting school can be an exciting, and sometimes scary, experience. Our
program is based on positive reinforcement to ensure your puppy has a fun
time while learning and making new friends. Research shows that positive
reinforcement is the best technique to use for developing a strong bond with
your puppy and consistent long term manners and training. Continuing to
reward desired behaviours into the future will mean these behaviours are
remembered well and presented often.
18

Class rules
• Please bring a flat lead, collar and treats to each class.
• Puppies must be on lead at all times, unless advised by your trainer.
o Even on lead your puppy is learning to socialise.
• Please do not feed or treat other puppies unless asked to do so.
o Some puppies may not be allowed to eat the same thing as your puppy.
• Puppies must be up to date with vaccinations, flea control and worming.
• If your puppy is sick please contact your trainer to check if it is ok to attend.
• Ask lots of questions.
• Have fun.
A calming touch
Practicing handling with your puppy from
an early age will help create a positive
associate with touch. Calming touch can
also create an association between touch
and the feeling of being calm, allowing
you to ask for calm behaviour in exciting
situations, such as friends coming over.
Practice calm touch
every night and before
every puppy school class.
Calming touch not only teaches your puppy the feeling of calm but it is also
the foundation to many other cues, such as mat training, and allows for easy
handling and treatment. Imagine how hard it will be to clip your puppy’s
nails or give them a tablet in the future if they hate their feet or mouth being
touched.
1. Practice handling when your puppy is happy but not overly
excited.
2. Pair your touch with food to create a positive association.
3. Give your puppy a treat.
4. Slowly and gently pat your puppy from the shoulder blade to
the tail. This should take about 5 seconds.
5. If your puppy has finished their treat, reward them again.
6. Practice calm touch on other areas of the body to encourage
handling.
7. Continue to reward and praise.
19

My puppy’s
handling
checklist:
Happy to be
touched
Needs
practice
Wont
let me near
Front feet
Back feet
Chest
Belly
Base of tail
Shoulder blades
and back
Around neck
Around mouth
Near eyes
On and in ears
Other
20

LOVE, GUIDANCE AND
MAKING FRIENDS
New experiences, making friends and growing up can be fun, exciting
and sometimes scary. Providing your puppy with support and positive
experiences will ensure your puppy grows into a happy confident dog.
21

Recognising canine body language
and communication is vital to
understand what your puppy
needs and how they feel.
GROWING UP:
YOUR PUPPY’S DEVELOPMENT
(SUB HEADING)
Your puppy will go through multiple development stages during their lifetime.
It is important that we understand what development stage they are in and
have realistic expectations of them to help them learn and grow. Just because
your puppy looks like an adult dog doesn’t mean they are.
22

MAKING FRIENDS AND
NEW EXPERIENCES
New experiences and making friends can be very exciting and sometimes
frightening for a puppy. Slowly and positively introducing them to a variety of
experiences, people and animals will allow them to create positive associations
so they grow up to become a happy confident dog.
Socialisation and play
Your puppy will develop vital communication skills in the early months of their
life. These early experiences will influence how they play, communicate and
learn as an adult dog.
Socialisation is an incredibly important part of your puppy’s development. All
puppies must be provided with a safe and positive environment to socialise in
during the early months of their life.
Tips for puppy play sessions:
• Only play with other puppies or dogs who are social, fully vaccinated and
wormed.
• Let them build their confidence. Nervous or frightened puppies should be
allowed to explore the environment by themselves before you start the
play session.
• Never force your puppy to play with another puppy or dog.
• Allow your puppy space and time.
• Be on the look out for a change in your puppy’s behaviour.
• Be there for support and guidance. They may ‘check in’ with you or ask
to leave.
• Create a fun and positive environment with treats and toys.
• Socialise your puppy with a variety of different breeds and sizes.
• Only have two puppies, or one person and one puppy playing together at
a time.
23

Be on the lookout for signs your
puppy is trying to tell you they
have had enough.
Your puppy may not yet be fully vaccinated. Only allow your puppy
with dogs who are fully vaccinated, up to date with preventatives
and social.
Communication and body language
Puppies, and dogs, will try to tell you how they are feeling with their eyes,
face and bodies. Some of these gestures are subtle, like a shift in ear or eye
position, while others are very noticeable, like baring teeth and growling.
It is vital that you and your entire family, including children, can read what your
puppy and other dogs are trying to tell you, and respond appropriately.
Not only will this understanding ensure your puppy continues to develop their
social skills in a positive manner, but it will also keep your puppy and family
safe.
A wagging tail does not always mean the puppy is happy and friendly.
Look at the puppy’s entire body, face and eyes to see how they feel.
Your puppy may tell you they are uncomfortable, scared or stressed by
displaying behaviours from the ‘Four F’s’ – Flight, Fight, Freeze & Fidget.
24

Example
behaviours
What
to do
Flight
behaviours
Running away, ducking
out of hands reach, or
jumping up and looking
around desperately when
on lead.
If possible, remove the
stimulus. Allow your
puppy to retreat. Do not
force them to confront
the stimulus. Provide
comfort.
Fight
behaviours
Barking, rushing,
lunging or ‘attacking’.
This could be to an object
or towards the vicinity of
the stimulus.
If possible, remove the
stimulus. Remove your
puppy from the situation.
Safely provide comfort.
Freeze
behaviours
Become very still. They
may look like they have
‘accepted’ what is
happening.
If possible, remove the
stimulus. Do not force
your puppy to ‘accept’ the
stimulus. Provide comfort.
Fidget
behaviours
Sniffing the same spot on
the ground repeatedly,
looking away, licking lips,
yawning, scratching, or
can’t sit still.
If possible, remove the
stimulus. Do not force
your puppy to ‘accept’ the
stimulus. Provide comfort.
Every puppy is different. The above are examples only. If you are concerned
about your puppy’s behaviour, please speak to your trainer for more advice.
25

Relaxed
puppy
Playful
puppy
Alert
dog
Nervous or
fearful puppy
Unhappy or
unsafe puppy/
dog
Confident
play
Unhappy
Play
26

Introducing new experiences
The world is a new and exciting place for a puppy. Being the curious balls
of adventure they are, puppies will want to discover anything and everything
in their path. This innate curiosity can sometimes come with the shock of
loud noises, and sometimes the world can just be a little overwhelming with
experiences and objects your puppy was not prepared for.
It is important that we do not assume our puppy will be ok with all
experiences. We need to introduce them to many new experiences in a slow
and positive manner, while being on the looking for any signs of stress. When
introducing your puppy to the big wide world it is vital we do not force them
or move too fast. Remember, these early life experiences can shape the adult
dog they will become.
Know when your puppy is asking for help. Puppies
that experience negative social interactions may
develop long term social and behavioural problems.
27

Friend’s Houses
FAMILY
ACTIVITY
Boarding
Kennels
Erratic Body
Moves
Sporting Events
Limps Beach
Shopping Carts Timber
Busy
Iintersection
Washing
Machine
Hot Air Balloons
Luggage
Remote Control
Toys
Metal Surfaces Bridge Dishwasher Aeroplanes
Different
Ethnicities
Backpacks Skipping ropes Cement Walk After Dark Kettle Helicopters
Both Genders Baby carriers Unusual Hairdos Swings Gravel Schools Mops Garbage Trucks
Seniors Prams Costumes Streamers Wet Grass Automatic Doors Brooms Street Cleaners Crowds
Teenagers Guide Dogs Helmets Flags Cats Grass Outdoor Café Vacuum Cleaner Trucks People Yelling
Noisy Children Wheelchairs Beards Scooters Birds Grates
Shopping
Centres
Hair Dryer Motorbikes Nail Guns
Children Metal Walkers Couriers Hats Roller Bladers Livestock Vinyl Groomers Loud music Trains
Building
Demolition
Toddlers Legs in Cast Meter Readers Sunglasses Cyclists Small Pets Ceramic Tiles Park Loud TV Trams Fireworks
Babies Crutches Veterinary Staff Umbrellas Skateboarders Puppies Sand Vet Clinic Doorbell Buses
Thunder &
Lightening
Adults Canes Postal Workers Raincoats Joggers Friendly Dogs
Stairs
(Up & Down)
Car Rides
Telephone
Ringing
Cars Sirens
PEOPLE
PEOPLE
WITH
PEOPLE
IN UNIFORM
PEOPLE
WEARING
MOVING
THINGS
ANIMALS
DIFFERENT
SURFACES
DIFFERENT
ENVIRONMENTS
HOME
ENVIRONMENT
TRANSPORT
ENVIRONMENT
& NOISES
Checklist
PUPPY LIFE EXPERIENCES
Expose your puppy to a variety of experiences to help them adjust socially.

PUPPY ADVICE
Toilet training
Some puppy behaviours can
be challenging at the best
of times. It is important
to understand that these
behaviours are normal, when
not done in excess, and are a
part of puppy development.
The following are some of the
most common challenging
puppy behaviours.
Toilet training can be challenging. Your puppy will need to be shown where
to go, as well as when to go and how to get to the appropriate toileting area.
Tips for toilet training:
• Decide where you want your puppy to go to the toilet and the
substrate you will use, if any.
• Ensure getting to the toileting area is easy and show your puppy how
to get there.
• Take your puppy to the toileting area often and;
o As soon as they wake up.
o After play or exercise.
o After eating or drinking.
o Every 1 – 2 hours if possible.
• Look out for signs of needing to go and take them to the toileting area
straight away.
• Praise after the event, not before or during. Do so every time your puppy
goes to the toilet in the correct area.
• Ignore all accidents.
o Do not punish your puppy. Consider why the accident may have
occurred to help you to prevent a similar accident in the future.
• Use an enzymatic cleaner to remove organic debris.
o Do not use ammonia based products or bleach.
• Crate training is an excellent tool for toilet training
29

I would like my puppy to go to the toilet:
Your puppy may be trying to tell you they need to go to the toilet. Look out for
the following signs:
• Whining, crying or digging at the door or window.
• Sniffing the floor or circling.
• A sudden stop in play or running into another room.
• Squatting.
Take your puppy to their toileting area every time
they show signs they need to go. Take them via
the same pathway so they do not get confused
or lost when trying to find the area themselves
and be calm and quiet until they have completed
their business. Once done, praise them like it is
the best thing in the world.
All puppies need to be
toilet trained, even
outdoor puppies.
What about night toilet training?
If your puppy is indoors at night the use of a small
enclosed sleeping area, such as a crate, laundry or bathroom will set you up for
night toilet training success. Your puppy will enjoy a small cozy sleeping area
and it is natural instinct to go to the toilet as far away from their bed, food and
water as possible. Using a small sleeping area allows us to teach our puppy
where to go and the substrate to use or to alert us if they need to go to the
toilet.
Ensure you take your puppy out to the toilet before bedtime. Your puppy’s
bladder is very small and they will need to urinate frequently.
Toilet training takes time and patience. Continue to praise your puppy for
toileting in the right area, every time, even after you think they are toilet
trained. A puppy is considered toilet trained when there are no accidents for
six weeks.
Most toilet training journeys are straight forward, however, if you are
experiencing concern or your puppy is not toilet trained by 6 months please
speak to your Veterinarian.
30

Never reprimand your puppy for going to the toilet in the wrong place. You are
not teaching your puppy where to go to the toilet, instead you are teaching them
not to go near you and this may result in a surprise in your wardrobe.
Puppies can get urinary tract infections (UTI’s) and this can impact
their toilet training. If you are concerned please contact your
Veterinarian.
31

32

Mouthing, biting and chewing
A puppy will bite, mouth and chew for a variety of reasons, most of which are
a normal part of puppy development. Play, boredom and teething are a few of
the common reasons for these behaviours.
Biting during play
Puppies are inquisitive and love to play. They do not have hands to grasp
and learn what objects are so instead they use their mouths to explore the
different textures, tastes and sizes. Play time is generally fun but who would
have thought that their adorable, soft and snuggly puppy could turn into a
piranha at a moments notice? Biting, tugging and tearing are all normal parts
of puppy play, however we need to teach our puppies that biting hurts and
hands are not toys.
Play biting tips:
• Anticipate the excitement and normal urge to bite.
• Introduce toys to your puppy that you can play with together, such as a rope
toy. This way your puppy will be able to bite the toy instead of you.
• Control the level of play. When your puppy starts to get too excited or
rough, or you become frustrated, initiate independent play. Never allow
play to get out of control.
• Keep play sessions short and fun and add in a variety of toys.
• Be consistent. Everyone should follow the same play rules.
• Never use physical punishment such as hitting, ‘biting’ or shutting your
puppy’s mouth to stop biting.
• If biting is occurring outside play times or you are concerned about your
puppy’s biting, please speak to your Veterinarian.
Boredom
Your puppy needs a variety of objects and activities to provide them with an
enriched environment so they can play and learn. If we do not provide our
puppy with quality environmental enrichment they will go looking for fun
themselves. This may mean digging up your garden, destroying your outdoor
furniture or developing a behavioural problem such as barking or escaping.
33

Teething
Teething can be uncomfortable as the jaw develops and new teeth come
through. Chewing is essential for the development of a healthy jaw and gums,
and it helps relieve this discomfort of teething. With teething lasting for around
7 months it is vital you provide your puppy with safe chew toys or ice blocks to
help relive this discomfort, and to save your plants.
Prevention
While most mouthing, play biting and chewing is normal it is important to
ensure you appropriately manage these behaviours and know when to seek
additional help.
The best way to manage these behaviours is to:
• Provide them with an enriched environment with lots of mental
stimulation. Rotate toys often and play with them so they are interesting.
• Give them opportunities to chew. Provide them with interesting and tasty
chew toys on a mat or in a crate.
• Make sure they are not hungry by feeding a premium diet at appropriate
intervals.
• Never ‘steal’ an object from your puppy. Instead ‘swap’ them for a more
appropriate chew toy.
• Don’t use your hands to ‘play rough’ with your puppy, if you do they will
become chew toys.
• Use positive reinforcement to encourage chewing on the appropriate toys.
Jumping
When you say hello to someone you love you typically smile and make eye
contact, along with sometimes giving physical touch or a kiss. Your puppy
loves you and jumping is one of the ways they can give you a big kiss hello. If
jumping behaviours are not managed in puppyhood it can be challenging to
fix. Your adult dog may not know why they can no longer greet you or show
excitement in this manner.
Your puppy will learn to do behaviours that give them the outcomes they want
and that are reinforced. We don’t want to stop our puppy from showing love
after a day away, so instead we can teaching that saying ‘hello’ can be done in a
calm way. Every time you come home ask your puppy to ‘sit’ before they come
inside or get cuddles. Before you know it your puppy will be sitting patiently at
the door waiting to be let in for their cuddles.
34

Never push down, smack or pin your puppy to the ground. This will not stop
jumping behaviours and instead will create fear and confusion.
Jumping behaviours can be challenging and sometimes unsafe for children
and the elderly. Your puppy may accidentally knock them down or scratch
delicate skin, causing a fright or even significant injury. If this occurs be
mindful of your puppy’s excitement levels when you
come home. Have your puppy outside or on a lead
before asking for a sit and involving children in the
greeting.
Digging
Digging is fun and can provide your puppy with
items they desire such as water, a cool area to sleep
or an old bone. Understanding why your puppy is
digging is the first step to preventing a yard full of
holes. Puppies will dig for many different reasons:
• There is something they want in the ground.
Teach your puppy to
‘sit’ as a greeting and
before any pats.
o They may be able to smell an old bone, can hear water in the pipes or
can see or smell grass worms.
• They want a cool area to sleep.
• They want to get out of the yard.
o If your puppy is digging under the fence to escape please speak to
your trainer.
• It is fun!
o Give your puppy an area to dig and play to redirect the behaviour.
A child’s clam is a great way to control digging.
Provide your puppy with a dedicated area to dig. Remove access to the
stimulus and provide lots of environmental enrichment. This will help ensure
your backyard is hole-free in no time.
35

MANNERS AND
GROWING UP
Teaching your puppy basic manners with positive reinforcement lays the
foundations for a love of learning. As your puppy grows they will learn new
behaviours and what responses they get. Behaviours that get a positive
response are more likely to occur again.
36

OUR TRAINING METHODS
Training your pet should be a fun experience. Our training methods will
create positive experiences to develop a love of learning and a happy lifelong
relationship.
There are many different ways to train a pet. You
may have heard of different techniques or used
some with a previous puppy. Our program is
based on positive reinforcement as it is known to
be the best method for training behaviours while
maintaining a strong life-long relationship with
your dog.
Training tips
• Keep training sessions short and fun.
o Try for a few minutes multiple times a day.
• Learn what motivates your puppy and try out different rewards.
o Try treats, dry food, toys, games or love & attention.
• Learn new behaviours in a calm area free from distraction.
• If you become frustrated or your puppy is not interested in training play a
game and try again later.
• Have realistic expectations of what your puppy can do.
• Always end on a positive note.
Putting a behaviour on verbal cue
Be consistent. Puppies
learn by association,
repetition and reward.
It is incredibly rewarding when you see your puppy understand a word and
respond correctly. It is important to not rush and introduce the word too early.
Simply put, we are teaching our puppy what each word means. Your puppy will
begin to associate each word with the behaviours.
Key steps to teaching a new word:
• Use a reward to lure your puppy into the desired position.
• The moment your puppy is in the desired position, say the cue word once.
• Reward immediately.
37

Teach a hand signal for
each verbal cue to help
with training in the
future.
Timing is everything. We can accidentally develop
word associations with the wrong behaviours. For
example ‘sit’ can mean ‘jump’ to a puppy if you
accidentally said ‘sit’ too late and your puppy
jumped up for the treat.
Don’t forget that you are teaching your puppy a new
language. Have patience and don’t worry if they
don’t get it right every time.
Once your puppy knows the verbal cue you can start saying it before the
behaviour and then use your ‘treat word’ to let them
know they have done it right.
Teaching your puppy a ‘treat word’
A ‘treat word’ or noise, otherwise known as clicker
training or bridging, is a brilliant way of letting your
puppy, or dog, know that they have successfully done
a desired behaviour at the time it occurred. This
pinpointed rewarding means there is a greater chance
of the behaviour occurring again. It also allows you to
work on more challenging or advanced behaviours, like
lead walking.
Use your ‘treat word’
in a variety of situations
and times. Always
reward when your
puppy looks to you
for their treat!
• Select the word you wish to use or have a clicker
ready.
• Say the word or ‘click’.
• Immediately give a reward.
• Repeat.
• When your puppy looks away say the word or ‘click’.
• If your puppy looks at you, reward immediately.
Congratulations, you have just taught your puppy their ‘treat word’.
My ‘treat word’ will be:
38

PUPPY MANNERS
Watching your puppy grow and learn is very rewarding. Consistency, positive
reinforcement and keeping training fun will ensure you all have an enjoyable
training experience.
Sit
Teaching your puppy to sit is akin to teaching them to say ‘please’. It is useful
for many experiences, like putting on a collar and is the basis of many other
behaviours.
1. Show your puppy the reward and allow them to sniff it.
2. In a slow and considered way move your hand upward and
towards your puppy’s back.
3. As you move your hand your puppy’s head should follow.
4. As your puppy follows your hand their nose will point up and
their bottom should ease down to the floor.
5. As soon as your puppy’s bottom meets the floor, reward.
39

If your puppy is consistently following your hand
and moving into a sit position we can start to create
an association to the word ‘Sit’.
If your puppy is jumping
for the treat hold your
hand lower and move in
slow considered
movements.
Creating an association with the word ‘Sit’.
• Lure your puppy into position as detailed
above.
• This time, when your puppy’s bottom meets
the floor say ‘sit’ and reward immediately.
• Repeat.
When your puppy is ready we can move to introducing the verbal cue ‘Sit’
before the behaviour.
Asking your puppy to ‘Sit’.
• Say the word ‘Sit’, once, in a friendly voice.
• When your puppy’s bottom meets the ground say your ‘treat word’ and
reward immediately.
• Repeat.
• If your puppy does not offer to sit go back to creating an association before
trying again.
• Do not push them into position or ask them to ‘Sit’ multiple times.
Congratulations you have just taught your puppy their first verbal cue!
Down
The ‘Down’ behaviour cue is excellent for large and very jumpy puppies. It is
the basis of many advanced behaviours such as mat training, party tricks like
roll over and puts your puppy into a relaxed position to practice handling.
40

1. Show your puppy the reward and allow them to sniff it.
2. In a slow and considered way lure your puppy into a sit position.
3. Once in a sit position continue to move your hand down in
between your puppy’s feet.
4. Your puppy’s nose should be near the ground and in
between their feet.
5. Reward and repeat.
a. Use your treat word to let your puppy know they are
doing well.
6. When your puppy is consistently bringing their nose between
their feet slowly move your hand across the floor directly out in
front of them.
a. Your hand movement will look like a ‘L’.
7. As your puppy follows your hand their arms should relax and they
should lay down.
8. As soon as your puppy’s chest meets the floor, reward.
Creating an association with the word ‘Down’.
• Lure your puppy into position as detailed above.
• This time, when your puppy’s chest meets the floor say ‘down’ and reward
immediately.
• Repeat.
When your puppy is ready we can move to introducing the verbal cue ‘Down’
before the behaviour.
Asking your puppy to ‘Down’.
• Say the word ‘Down’, once, in a friendly voice.
• When your puppy’s chest meets the ground say your ‘treat word’ and
reward immediately.
• Repeat.
• If your puppy does not offer to lay down go back to creating an association
before trying again.
Some puppies feel vulnerable and are reluctant to move into this position,
while others can become easily confused. There are many different ways to
teach ‘Down’. Please do not push them into position and if you are having
trouble speak to your trainer.
41

Stay/wait
Use your ‘treat word’ at the successful completion of each new
movement so your puppy knows they are doing the right thing.
For example, when your puppy is in a sit position, when their
nose is between their feet and again when they stretch their
arms out before laying down.
A puppy may not be able to master the ‘Stay’ this early on. The world is
incredibly exciting and what is only a few seconds feels like an eternity to a
puppy. It is however an important cue to teach as it can provide safety and
control in certain situations such as waiting at a doorway or getting in or out
of a car.
1. Ask your puppy for a ‘Sit’ or lure them into position.
2. Slowly show your puppy a flat palm, using the hand without
a treat.
a. Do not place your hand too close to your puppy’s
face or nose as they will be interested and will move
to touch it.
3. If your puppy does not move, reward.
a. If your puppy does move simply ask them to sit again
or lure them back into position.
When your puppy is remaining in a sit position until rewarded we can
start to create an association to the word ‘Stay’.
Creating an association with the word ‘Stay’.
• Ask your puppy to ‘Sit’.
• When you show your puppy your flat palm say the word ‘Stay’, once, in a
friendly voice.
• If your puppy does not move, reward.
• Repeat.
When your puppy is ready we can move to introducing the verbal cue ‘Stay’
before the behaviour.
42

43

Practice Stay in a
variety of positions
such as sitting, standing
and laying down.
Asking your puppy to ‘Stay’ for longer periods
of time and with movement.
• Ask your puppy to ‘Sit’.
• Say the word ‘Stay’, once, in a friendly voice
and take a small, slow step back and forward
again.
• If your puppy does not move say your ‘treat
word’ and reward immediately.
• If your puppy does not stay go back to
creating an association before trying again.
• Repeat.
• If your puppy does not move when you take a step back you can slowly
increase the amount of time or the amount of movement.
Tips for a successful ‘Stay’.
• Remember to use your ‘treat word’ often so your puppy knows they
are doing the right thing.
• Use slow and considered movements.
• Don’t progress too fast.
• Always return to your puppy and reward.
Come
Having a puppy that comes when called makes every day events and trips
to the park so much easier and stress free. A puppy is easily distracted by the
big, wide world. Try to be more exciting than the things around them but have
realistic expectations, sometimes we are not as inciting as another playful puppy!
1. Have treats and toys ready.
2. Get your puppy’s attention by calling their name.
a. Start at a small distance before moving further away.
3. As soon as they look at you show them the treats and toys by
shaking or squeaking them and make fun, interesting noises.
a. Do not say the word ‘come’ at this stage.
b. Be as exciting and happy as possible.
4. When your puppy starts running towards you say your ‘treat
word’.
5. Once your puppy gets to you reward your puppy with the
items you were showing them and give lots of praise.
44

Creating an association with the word ‘Come’.
• Repeat the steps 1 - 3 above.
• When your puppy starts running towards
you say the word ‘Come’ once in a happy
friendly voice.
• If your puppy does not ‘Come’ try again in
an environment with less distraction such
as down a hallway.
When your puppy is running to you consistently
you can introduce the word ‘Come’ before the
behaviour.
When you are in a fun
environment, like at the
park, call your puppy over
and let them go play again,
do this multiple times.
Your puppy will associate
the word ‘Come’ with
fun things instead of
going home.
Asking your puppy to ‘Come’.
• Say your puppy’s name to get their
attention.
• When they look at you say the word ‘Come’.
• As your puppy is running towards you say your ‘treat word’ to let them
know they are doing the right thing.
• Reward and give lots of praise when they get to you.
• Repeat.
• When your puppy is consistently coming when called try asking for a sit
when they get to you.
45

Lead walking
Teaching your puppy to walk on a loose lead is challenging but so incredibly
worthwhile to get right. Lead training is done in stages. Please have realistic
expectations of your puppy, have patience and provide them with lots of
opportunities to learn in a positive manner.
Learning about the lead and to follow you.
1. Use a soft collar and lead with a small clip.
a. Check with your trainer to make sure your lead and collar are
appropriate for your puppy’s size and breed.
2. Before starting lead walking get your puppy used to having the lead
attached and detached in a calm way.
3. Use lots of treats to keep your puppy’s attention.
4. Start lead training in your home or yard by attaching the lead to the
collar and letting it drag behind your puppy.
5. Walk around your yard with treats and in a happy tone ask your puppy to
follow you by making fun noises and giving treats to keep them interested.
a. At this stage you do not want to say a cue word.
6. Move around in different directions.
Learning to keep the lead loose.
7. Once your puppy is following you around, pick the lead up, but keep it loose.
8. Continue walking around, holding the lead, and asking your puppy to
follow you. Remember to give lots of treats.
a. Walk around changing directions. Your puppy will want to follow you
and will be looking to you for the next move.
9. If your puppy walks in a different direction or the lead becomes tight,
stop walking and call your puppy with lots of fun noises.
10. Reward.
Now you can walk in your backyard holding a loose lead and keeping your
puppy’s attention we can move to other environments.
Taking it to the streets.
11. When starting your walk get your puppy’s attention and start to walk.
12. If your puppy pulls on the lead, stop walking.
a. This will teach your puppy that a tight lead means ‘stop’ and a loose
lead means ‘go’.
13. Get your puppy’s attention again by making fun noises and giving treats.
14. Once your puppy’s lead is loose again you can walk forward.
a. If your puppy continues to pull forward, change direction by making
fun noises and giving treats.
15. Once home have a play session and give lots of praise.
46

47

“WALKIES!” As tempting as it is don’t over excite your puppy
prior to putting the lead on. Starting calm is the best way to have
a relaxed and pleasant walking experience.
Lead walking tips:
• Set your puppy up for success – Keep walks short and positive.
◦ Don’t try to go on a 20-minute walk the first time you leave
your house. A few minutes or even a few meters is progress.
• Practice every day.
• Use a comfortable lead and collar that is the right size for your puppy.
• Have a play session and give lots of praise when you get home.
• Have realistic expectations of your puppy.
• Don’t move to more advanced lead walking or ‘heeling’ until ready.
What next and ongoing training
Puppy school is just the beginning. We recommend life long training whether
it is at home, in a group class, private lessons or by joining a dog sport. Just like
us, dogs love to learn. Training games are an excellent way to provide mental
stimulation and create a strong bond.
The following are some fun and essential cues to work towards:
• Mat training:
o Similar to crate training but in an open environment.
o This allows your puppy to relax in a safe area close to you teaching
independence.
o It also has the added benefit of stopping certain behaviours, like
rushing at the door when the door bell rings, if put on verbal cue.
• Touch:
o A simple yet rewarding cue is the basis for many advanced
behaviours.
• Eye contact:
o A great way to gain focus in a distracting environment, especially
while on lead.
o Associating eye contact with positive outcomes is essential.
• Advanced handling:
o It is vitally important that your puppy is comfortable being
handled.
o Stress free experiences at the Vet. A major benefit if your pet
needs handling and treatment if they become injured or unwell.
We hope you love training and continue to learn new behaviours and enjoy
many years together.
48

49

VET CARE
AND WELLBEING
Your puppy’s first year of life lays the foundations to good health and behaviour in
the future. We are honored to be on this journey with you and care deeply for your
puppy’s health and wellbeing
50

PREVENTATIVE HEALTH
Vaccinations
A puppy requires multiple vaccinations in their first year of life and then annual
boosters to stay up date. It is important to remember that your puppy may not
yet be full vaccinated and therefore it is essential to only allow your puppy to
interact with dogs who are fully vaccinated, up to date with worming and are
social. We recommend vaccination at:
• 6 – 8 weeks
• 10 – 12 weeks
• 14 – 16 weeks and annually thereafter.
Your Veterinarian will discuss your puppy’s personal vaccination schedule with
you.
A personalised approach to parasites
As puppies grow very quickly, it is important that your preventatives
cover them for their growing size and your lifestyle. There are many different
products on the market; your puppy school trainer will develop your personal
plan specific to your puppy’s needs. As your puppy grows please continue to
discuss your personal plan with your Veterinarian at your next visit.
Heartworm
A puppy can become infected with heartworm from a single infected mosquito
bite. Heartworm, like the name suggests, are parasites that live in the heart
and lungs of an infected animal and have serious and unfortunately life
threatening consequences.
Preventative products vary from monthly chewables to yearly vaccinations.
We recommend puppies start their heartworm preventative schedule as soon
as possible and from their first visit to the Vet. Please speak to your Veterinarian
to discuss your puppy’s personal recommendation plan.
You’ve probably heard the saying: “prevention is better than
cure”. When it comes to heartworm this couldn’t be more true.
In fact, it’s because heartworm is so difficult to treat that we
recommend continuous 12 month protection.
51

Intestinal worms
Puppies will need to be wormed at a higher frequency to adult dogs to
ensure both your puppy and your family is protected. There are four main
intestinal worms that we use preventative for, including hookworm,
roundworm, tapeworm and whipworm. Each of these intestinal worms can
pose a serious health risk for your puppy and some can be transmitted to
humans. To protect your puppy and your family we recommend using regular
preventatives.
Puppies will need to have preventative intestinal worming:
• Every 2 weeks until 12 weeks old
• Every month until 6 months old
• From 6 months the frequency of preventative intestinal worming will
depend on the product selected.
Please speak to your Veterinarian for your puppy’s personal recommendation
plan.
Fleas
Did you know: The fleas we see on our pets represent only 5 – 10% of the flea
population, the remaining 90- 95% live in the environment.
Fleas breed at an incredible rate. A female flea can begin to breed within 48hrs
of their first meal and can lay up to 40 eggs a day!
Fleas can lay dormant in your garden, in your carpet or in your furniture for
an incredibly long period of time. They will ‘wake up’ when there are optimal
conditions and know they can get a feed, such as bringing a new puppy home.
Fleas are itchy and can cause significant discomfort to our pets. In some pets,
fleas can cause severe itching due to an allergic reaction to the flea saliva,
which can result in painful skin conditions.
Ticks
If you are in a tick area it is vital that your puppy remains up to date with tick
prevention. Tick paralysis is terrible, and sometimes fatal. During tick season
it is also recommended to check all pets for ticks every day.
52

WELLNESS
Puppies are curious, pocket rockets of fun. Sometimes thought they don’t
quite know when something is dangerous. This boundless fun loving nature
can sometimes mean they get themselves into trouble. The Best For Pet
program has been developed to ensure your puppy can get the best care
as soon as they need it. Providing you with peace of mind and a trusting
relationship with your Veterinary team.
Unlimited FREE
Consultations
Annual
Vaccinations
Up to
$250 OFF a
Dental Procedure
Preventative
Health Care
Screen
x 1 Per Year
FREE
Microchip
10% Discount
on Professional
Services by a Vet
10% Discount
on Parasite
Control
10% Discount
on Food &
Merchandise
First aid
Understanding what to do along with having your closest emergency after
hours Vet phone number and address is vital in the case of accident or injury.
My closest emergency after hours vet is:
Name:
Phone:
Address:
Nutrition
The first year of a puppy’s life is very important. All puppies need quality
nutrition to give them the best start in life. We recommend a premium
complete and balanced puppy diet and can provide you with options to suit
your puppy’s needs and your lifestyle. For more information on your puppy’s
nutritional needs please go to page 17
53

NOTES
54

PREVENTATIVE CALENDAR
Vaccine
Heartworm
Intestinal
Worms
Fleas and
Ticks
Dental
Wellness
Path Screen
January
February
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
December
NOTES:
55

56