The Edinburgh Reporter May 2019

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18 FOOD The Edinburgh Reporter Paul Tamburrini’s May recipes Paul Tamburrini’s slow roasted rib of beef with a bone marriw sauce PAUL TAMBURRINI Head Chef at Bistro Deluxe at Macdonald Holyrood Hotel has over 30 years experience in the food industry and here he makes a suggestion for you to try at home. Slow Roasted Rib of Beef Serves 2 Ingredients:1x600gram well-aged Cote De Bouef Technique: 1Pre-heat the oven to 60°. 2 Place a large frying pan over a high heat until it is smoking 3 Coat the bottom of the pan and with oil, when it starts to smoke, season the beef and brown on all sides. 4 Put the browned meat in the oven until the internal meat reaches 55° (40mins) remove from the oven and leave to rest for 15 minutes. Pair with Chef Tamburrini’s Bone Marrow Sauce and homemade onion rings Wine Suggestion by Peter Adshead, Manager at Paul Tamburrini at Macdonald Holyrood Hotel:“For the Côte we can go more traditional red! I wouldn't go for any blockbuster wines, Beef doesn’t need a huge wine, but wines fromMargaret River in Australia, Walker Bay in South Africa stick out for the job in mind. Both countries are traditionally hotter countries but these regions are coastal and are cooled giving a lovely elegance to their wines. Try a Syrah or Cabernet.” Bone Marrow Sauce 2L Beef Stock 100g FrenchButter 250g Peeled and Finely Sliced Shallots 150g White Wine 100g Dijon Mustard 10g Sherry Vinegar 15g Lemon Juice 100g Bone Marrow 20g Flat Parsley 20g Chives 10g Tarragon Salt and Black Pepper Pour the beef stock into a large pan and place over a high heat. Bring to the boil and allow the liquid to reduce by threequarters until 500g remains.In the meantime, melt the butter in a medium pan and cook the shallots for approx 7mins until they are light brown in colour. Add the white wine and allow to reduce by three-quarters. Remove the shallot pan from the heat and add the dijon mustard.Stir thoroughly before adding the rest the reduced beef stock.Add the sherry vinegar and lemon juice and whisk until all the ingredients are fully incorporated. Gently heat the sauce and when hot add the diced bone marrow and remove the pan from the heat. The bone marrow should be soft but not melted. finely chop the herbs and add to the sauce and stir. Review - One Square Juliet opted for the non-vegan menu by Juliet Lawrence Wilson ONE SQUARE at the Sheraton Grand is rather nice. There’s clearly a raucous do in the nearby function room, which I find quite pleasant. I imagine it to be someone’s retirement party after years of service at Scottish Widows. A free bar drunk dry kind of evening. We’re sat at a window table with a lovely view of Festival Square and the Usher Hall. The interior designer has sobered up for this area and the drapes and furnishings are elegant and rather comfy. The menu is what you might call reliable with touches of naughtiness and whimsy. They even have a vegan menu, probably great for all the millennial graduation lunches and dinners to come in the summer. There’s nothing quite like chastising your folks for ruining the planet after they’ve paid for your education, the selfish cretins. We opt to share seafood starters: Crap with Apple, Coriander and Fresh Radishes, which is crisp, clean fresh crab gorgeousness, and some unctuous, Scottish Shellfish with Thistly Cross Cider and Shallots. The shellfish was super tasty and of the highest quality, incidentally what I’d also put on my Tinder profile. For mains Silver Fox had a Skate Wing with Crispy Capers, Bitter Lemons and Brown Butter, the wing of a proportion that could have swam the Atlantic with Ben Fogle on its back. And hopefully not return. It was beautifully done, and to me there’s no better way to eat a nice piece of fish. I had Free Range Chicken Breast with Wild Mushrooms on Brioche Toast with Chicken Hollandaise. I wouldn’t be surprised if they cooked the chicken sous vide as it was by far the juiciest I’ve tasted. The mushrooms and sauce were divine, wealthy to the point of early retirement but light and fresh too. One thing to remember if you’re taking a Tinder date to One Square, if they go to the lavatory and take their time, worry not! They will return, but might take a while as the loos are a distance away and it’s easy to get lost. Just to reassure you there. The food at One Square is fabulous and special, no easy feat. Their new Executive Chef Shaun Woodhouse clearly knows how to create a great offering amongst the many demands of a hotel kitchen. Read the full review online.
@EdinReporter /EdinReporter /edinburghreporter FOOD & PUZZLES 19 Juliet’s Food Diary by Juliet Lawrence Wilson THE BEST pizza I ever had the privilege to much was in Monticatini 30 years ago and I clearly remember the chef had a fag in his mouth when he was making it. In fact there was barely a Tuscan chef or waitress that didn’t have a ciggie on the go. Lets blame EU regulations for ruining everyone’s fun. Nobody died from getting a speck of ash in their pasta after all. Sadly I haven’t been back to Tuscany since and now have to need to as far as pizza is concerned. I’m happy to report that High Dive bar on St Leonard's Street is now my go-to for pizza heaven. A quirky and fashionable joint on the right side of hipster and owned by the Civerinos group they have definitely got the formula right here. Thin bases usually lack the juiciness of their stuffed crust rivals but here we have plenty of sauce and toppings as well as a satisfying crunch. I enjoyed a cheeky little number with mozzarella, pancetta and Brussels sprouts and my companion an equally delicious offering with spiced sausage and burrata. Fabulously crisp seasoned fries and a wild rocket salad were also served to perfection. Dessert was a diet slaying basket of doughnut bites served with nutella and cream dips. The service is cheery, the vibe cool: you have to go! Off to Continis for a Piemonte wine tasting. Hosted by Liberty 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 20 21 22 23 24 19 25 26 Wines this was a packed event with the opportunity to taste some beauties from one of the most recognised wine regions of Italy. The Vajra Folder to was certainly my favourite and Continis was, as always, and elegant place to be. What is it that makes a restaurant extra special? In my opinion its the presence of the owner that consistently keeps standards up and Victor and Carina Contini are the epitomé of fabulous hosts and miraculously don’t seem to have aged a day after so many years in such a competitive business. I was happy to hear their restaurant at the Scottish Galleries is to reopen in time for the Festival and they’ve also introduced afternoon tea at Cannonball. My father, giving me a lift to the event enquired if there would be spitoons? As if anyone in Edinburgh would spit out a free mouthful of wine. Do check out Contini.com for future events. There’s an irony that ‘street food’ seems to be something eaten indoors at tables. One of my favourite places for casual dining, Miss Woos on Bernard St in Leith has been moved upstairs to make way for The Fat Badger pub now occupying the ground level. Trying to describe Miss Woos to my date I defined it as what we might imagine a Shanghai opium den to look like. Perhaps I ought to have been worried about his ensuing enthusiasm? A couple of splendid cocktails, bao buns, filthy fries and noodles later I could have quite happily settled in for the evening if I hadn’t had to go home and entertain the hamster. If you’re going to do afternoon tea, you may as well go all in or go home. Hopetoun House are offering a chocolate themed afternoon tea to celebrate the end of lent. And here’s me not even realising Lent was on. Oh the regret! However it’s at least a month since I drank herbal tea, does that count? Crossword Across 7 Mutilate horribly, as a last resort (8) 9 Rushes about, like this monkey (6) 10 Post from Mali ? (4) 11 Hide badger around advanced position in enemy territory (10) 12 Caveat about need to quit (6) 14 I use echo to assess size of this freezing place (3-5) 5 Get in a muddle over consuming food (6) 17 Accompany round new sector (6) 20 Adjudicating body sitting round unlit bar (8) 22 However, in many ways this is endless (6) 23 Bill's oven a puzzle that cannot be worked out (10) 24 Sum of money found in part of underground (4) 25 Is main type a sort of monkey ? (6) 26 Swiss singer yelled, or, perhaps, sang (8) Crossword by David Albury Answers on page 21 Down 1 Arrangement of lace gave shape between the breasts (8) 2 Laid out part of a watch (4) 3 In Braemar, blether about this polished stone (6) 4 Reprocessing ? Not nice, but it is an advance (8) 5 Putting on clog, they make use of modern science (10) 6 Part of lemur also features in wall paintings (6) 8 Part of the helix I realise is a tincture (6) 13 Nasty tic on tibia killed by this destructive substance (10) 16 Happening that does not take place (3-5) 18 Tints are unusual for model railway (5, 3) 19 Bloody sort of former pupil (3, 3) 21 Was in charge of police department - and was rotten ! (6) 22 Rectifies what sad men re-wrote (6) 24 Collection of papers about life (4) High Dive is Civerino’s latest pizza house Advertise with us! Please send any copy or advertising to editor@theedinburghreporter.co.uk
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The Edinburgh Reporter May 2019

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