Departures Middle East Summer 2019

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“There’s a true community that is actively engaged with the local culture” 78 DEPARTURES Moroccan flourishes to a classic colonial design. “It’s pennies on the dollar to make things here,” said Taylor Goodall, a Houston-based lawyer and the coowner with his wife Mariana of Hotel Amparo, which opened this January. Though they shipped in midcentury pieces from abroad, they’ve furnished much of the fiveroom guesthouse with textiles from Oaxaca, handcarved poster beds and papier-mâché objects. It’s an enviable mix, and I found myself wanting to know the provenance of every piece. “We want guests to feel like they’re staying at their coolest friend’s house,” said Goodall, who plans to open a shop in the lobby to sell commissioned pieces from local artisans. There is a lot of creative cross-pollination going on in San Miguel de Allende. Dôce 18 Concept House houses a floral studio, a clothing boutique, a ceramics kiosk, a macaroon stall, several galleries amd a small independent hotel. One afternoon González took me to visit. The complex was busy with international visitors but also young couples from Mexico City who’d come for the weekend. After a coffee, we headed next door to the very popular Jacinto 1930 restaurant, where enjoyed oystermushroom tacos. For more casual fare, Dôce 18 has a food hall in the back of the building where Donnie Masterton, an LA native, has opened a taco stand as well as a grass-fed-burger joint. In 2008, Masterton, San Miguel’s de facto culinary ambassador, came to the city and opened what would become a hugely popular outpost of haute cuisine called The Restaurant. He had moved down to Mexico a few years before to take a break from kitchens, having cooked professionally since he was 15. He fell in love with San Miguel de Allende and realised there was an opportunity to open a restaurant focused on local ingredients. He’s been deeply involved in the town’s burgeoning farm-totable movement and is building a small eco-ranch just outside town to grow produce and raise livestock, which will supply his restaurants. “From a business perspective, there are fewer hoops to jump through than in the States,” Masterton told me. “It’s way more fun to do it down here.” He has just opened Fatima 7, a <strong>Middle</strong> <strong>East</strong>ern restaurant in Casa Blanca 7, the boutique hotel that Weisman and Fisher designed. On Thursdays The Restaurant holds burger night, a tradition that started during the recession and still brings in the crowds. However, on most evenings the place serves as a local social hub. The night I stopped by, I met a DJ from Dallas, a Pilates instructor from San Francisco, and a reunion group for one of the two San Miguel Burning Man camps, and I even bumped into Kirar again. I asked all of them why San Miguel was so popular. A few in the Burning Man group told me about the town having an energy vortex or an “acupressure point”. Kirar admitted she didn’t want to sound all woo-woo, but she agreed. “There is something special here that makes me breathe deeper and smile wider.”
A showroom in the Tao Studio Gallery; opposite, from top: a cobblestoned street; a musician walks past the Church of Immaculate Conception in the historic centre DEPARTURES 79
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SUMMER 2019 Sights, Sojourns & Styl
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DEPARTURES TRAVEL CULTURE TRIP 22
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DEPARTURES TRAVEL MARKET WATCH 24
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Page 37 and 38: LAKE LUCERNE LUXURY HIDEAWAYS Lucer
Page 39 and 40: Smile all the stay in the Maldives.
Page 41 and 42: JEWELLERY PHOTOGRAPHS BY JON ERVIN
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Page 45 and 46: SPECIAL PROMOTION THE MULIA, MULIA
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Page 49 and 50: MURALS Designer Richard McGeehan of
Page 51 and 52: LAMP: COURTESY GAETANO PESCE/SALON
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Page 55 and 56: Where your dreams come true Hurawal
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Departures Middle East Summer 2019

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