44 | June 13, 2019 | The Northbrook tower life & arts northbrooktower.com Mercado’s slow, rustic cooking speeds up attraction to new restaurant Jason Addy Contributing Editor After decades in the Chicago restaurant industry, Richard Vallejo and chef Yanni Sanchez teamed up to launch Mercado Cocina and Cantina in Glenview, and it has been an instant hit for the community. Vallejo, co-owner and operator of Mercado, said he and Sanchez were looking for a place in the North Shore to start their own modern Mexican restaurant and considered locations in Wilmette and Evanston before landing at 2300 Lehigh Ave. Having opened at the end of April, Vallejo said he “couldn’t be happier” with the reception from the community in the restaurant’s first weeks. “It seems like Glenview’s been pretty thirsty for something like this. We’re getting great feedback. ... They’re happy we’re here,” Vallejo said, describing the restaurant’s “chef-driven” concept as a showcase of traditional Mexican and global ingredients that Sanchez fuses using old-fashioned, rustic Mexican and French cooking techniques. Sanchez and her team at Mercado make all their dishes using the freshest ingredients possible, and everything is made inhouse, including the salt mixes and juices for the restaurant’s margaritas, Vallejo said. Sanchez also utilizes rustic cooking techniques that may take longer but are worth the extra time, Vallejo said. “You can taste the depth of flavor when you kind of slow things down and do them the right way. It really develops the flavor Mercado Cocina and Cantina’s Fabianita’s flautas ($10), which feature crispy chipotle-potato-filled spring rolls, salsa verde, basil, mint, romaine, queso fresco and creme fraiche, is quickly becoming a fan-favorite dish at the new Glenview restaurant. Photos by Martin Carlino/22nd Century Media and enhances the items,” Vallejo said. The inspiration behind Mercado — “market” in Spanish — comes from the fresh ingredients and beautiful colors often found in markets throughout cities across the world, Sanchez said. “When you want to know about cultures, you go to the markets,” Sanchez said. “Market is my muse. Market is my inspiration.” While Mercado offers traditional Mexican staples like tacos, burritos and enchiladas, Vallejo and Sanchez are proud to be introducing local diners to lesser-known regional Mexican cuisines and cooking techniques. Vallejo highlighted Mercado’s “Fabianita’s flautas,” which are made with chipotle-flavored potatoes wrapped in a spring roll wrapper and served on a lettuce leaf. Flautas are usually filled with meat and cheese then wrapped in a tortilla, but Sanchez is recreating a technique she learned when she was a young girl in Toluca, Mexico, according to Vallejo. “That’s kind of the beauty of this menu, how the dishes evolved into what they are. … Items that are reminiscent to our chef’s upbringing and dear to her,” Vallejo said. A group of 22nd Century Media editors stopped by Mercado to check out Glenview’s newest restaurant and sample some of the items on the menu. We started with several drinks, including Mercado’s classic margarita and guava margarita. The classic, “clean, refreshing” margarita is the restaurant’s top seller, but the guava isn’t far behind, Vallejo said. The first dish out of the kitchen was the guacamole burrata ($15). The plate features avocado mixed with basil, jalapenos, pickled onions and cherry tomatoes and comes served Mercado Cocina | Cantina 2300 Lehigh Ave., Glenview (847) 904-2386 restomercado.com 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday 4-8 p.m. Sunday with burrata cheese and bread. Next was the duck bunuelos ($11), which are crispy dumplings filled with duck meat over an Oaxacan mole negro and topped with figs and queso fresco. Then came Fabianita’s flautas ($10), a dish Vallejo said has become one of the restaurant’s most-ordered appetizers. After the flautas, Vallejo served up a plate featuring Mercado’s three taco options. The plate of three tacos ($10) included a chicken al pastor taco with The restaurant’s duck bunuelos ($11) features dumplings filled with duck meat over an Oaxacan mole negro and topped with figs and queso fresco. Mercado’s guacamole burrata ($15) features avocado mixed with basil, jalapenos, pickled onions and cherry tomatoes, served with burrata cheese and bread. Three of Mercado’s taco options — chicken al pastor, chochinita pibil and crispy fish — are pictured. grilled pineapple, pickled rhubarb and guajillo chilis; a chochinita pibil taco with achiote-braised pork and pickled onions; and a crispy fish taco with tilapia, chipotle aioli and apple-fennel slaw. Vallejo also served us lamb barbacoa ($25), one of Mercado’s house specialties. The dish is served with a slow-braised lamb shank wrapped in a banana leaf and served with lamb jus and handmade tortillas.
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