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Photography Assignment Sheets

A sampler from our new product, '100 Photography Assignment Sheets' that you can learn more about over at https://www.slrphotographyguide.com/photo-assignments/

A sampler from our new product, '100 Photography Assignment Sheets' that you can learn more about over at https://www.slrphotographyguide.com/photo-assignments/

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SUNSET PORTRAIT<br />

This sheet will teach you how to capture a portrait image against an early<br />

sunset.<br />

© SLR <strong>Photography</strong> Guide<br />

PHOTO ASSIGNMENT<br />

No more frustration when attempting to photograph a person or subject against an<br />

early sunset. Simply follow the f/4 rule listed below from the good old film days and<br />

your set.<br />

Camera Settings For f/4 Rule<br />

When photographing a subject against a sunset, set your camera to manual mode with an f/4<br />

aperture.<br />

Now choose a matching ISO/ Shutter Speed combination. For example, if you choose ISO 400, set<br />

a matching Shutter Speed of 1/400 second. If you choose ISO 800, set a Shutter Speed of 1/800<br />

second and so forth.<br />

Note, if you are hand holding your camera make sure you select a ISO and Shutter Speed<br />

combination that is faster than the length of your lens.<br />

For example, if you are using a wide angle 24mm focal length, select a shutter speed faster than<br />

1/24 of a second. Hence the ISO 100 with 1/100 second shutter speed is your best option. Always<br />

aim for the lowest ISO possible.<br />

If you are using a focal length of 300mm. Use ISO 400 + 1/400 second shutter speed combination<br />

and so forth.<br />

SHORT NOTE<br />

These settings will help get you quickly into a good ball park to start with. It's then up to you to<br />

tweak the settings depending on your creative vision for the shot.<br />

ASSIGNMENT CARD: SUNSET PORTRAIT


CONTRASTING LIGHT<br />

This sheet will teach you how to handle bright subjects against dark<br />

backgrounds and vice versa. The more you practice seeing tonalities in<br />

a scene, the easier it will become to quickly select camera settings.<br />

© SLR <strong>Photography</strong> Guide<br />

PHOTO ASSIGNMENT<br />

When using the camera's default metering mode (Matrix Metering or Evaluative<br />

Metering mode), the camera divides the entire frame into multiple segments, takes a<br />

meter reading from each segment and averages it out, giving more emphasis to the<br />

center of the frame.<br />

Therefore as a photographer, you need to take the average tonality of the entire<br />

frame and over expose the image if the average is on the brighter side, or under<br />

expose if the average tonality is on the darker side.<br />

Example #1 - Tiger<br />

There are more darker tones in this image than lighter ones.<br />

Therefore you'll need to under-expose the shot by -1 or -2 when<br />

using Matrix / Evaluative metering mode.<br />

Example #2 - Bird<br />

Same as above, there are more darker tones in this image than<br />

lighter ones. Therefore you'll need to under-expose the shot by<br />

-1 or -2 when using Matrix / Evaluative metering mode.<br />

Example #3 - Zebra<br />

The overall tonality of this scene is even throughout. Therefore<br />

there is no reason to under or over expose the shot. The<br />

camera should do a great job on exposing the image<br />

automatically when using Matrix or Evaluative metering.<br />

Example #4 - Eagle<br />

The overall tonality of this scene is brighter in tones. Therefore to<br />

bring out the details in the Eagle's darker feathers, you'll need to<br />

over-expose the shot by +1 or +2 when using Matrix / Evaluative<br />

metering mode.<br />

ASSIGNMENT CARD: CONTRASTING LIGHT


MOON<br />

This assignment sheet will teach you how to capture all the<br />

phases of the Moon.<br />

© SLR <strong>Photography</strong> Guide<br />

PHOTO ASSIGNMENT<br />

As with all night sky photography, these settings are a basic starting point from which<br />

you may need to tweak your settings after taking a couple of test shots. If you find a<br />

test shot too dark, increase your ISO or lower your aperture f/number. If you find it too<br />

bright, decrease your ISO or increase your aperture f/number.<br />

When using a tripod, your lens vibration reduction / image stabilization should always<br />

be turned off. Otherwise in searching for vibration, your lens may actually cause<br />

movement, creating images that are less sharp than they otherwise would be.<br />

Other Settings To Try:<br />

Bright Moon<br />

- Shutter Speed 1/500 sec<br />

- Aperture f/5.6<br />

- ISO 400-800<br />

Crescent Moon<br />

- Shutter Speed 1 sec<br />

- Aperture f/5.6<br />

- ISO 400-800<br />

Full Moon 1/250sec, f/11, ISO 250<br />

Gibbous Moon 1/125sec, f/11, ISO 250<br />

Quarter Moon 1/60sec, f/11, ISO 250<br />

Wide Crescent 1/30sec, f/11, ISO 250<br />

Thin Crescent 1/15sec, f/11, ISO 250<br />

Earthshine 2sec, f/2.8, ISO 250<br />

- Use a tripod and remote release, or<br />

set a 2 second Self Timer to trigger the<br />

image.<br />

- Use Manual Mode.<br />

SHORT NOTE<br />

The brighter the moon, the faster your shutter speed needs to be. If you find an image too dark,<br />

increase your ISO or lower your aperture f/number. If you find it too bright, decrease your ISO or<br />

increase your aperture f/number.<br />

ASSIGNMENT CARD: MOON


FIREWORKS<br />

This assignment sheet will teach you how to capture fireworks. What<br />

you'll need: Camera and wide angle lens, tripod, cable release or<br />

remote timer.<br />

© SLR <strong>Photography</strong> Guide<br />

PHOTO ASSIGNMENT<br />

Arrive early to scout out your location. Think about the wind direction. If you’re<br />

downwind from the display, the air will quickly become filled with smoke haze, which<br />

is not ideal. If you can, try and position yourself upwind to avoid this.<br />

Manually set the focus for your scene before it gets dark. Focus on infinity or on an<br />

object in the distance. Once the fireworks begin, you’ll be ready to start shooting. If<br />

you have an issue mid-show, turn autofocus back on and shoot a distant well-lit<br />

object, then turn it back to manual focus again.<br />

Method 1<br />

- ISO 200<br />

- Aperture f/8<br />

- Shutter Speed 2 seconds<br />

- Ignore the exposure line<br />

Take a test shot. If the results<br />

are too bright increase the<br />

aperture number to f/11, if too<br />

dark decrease aperture to f/5.6<br />

or f/4<br />

Method 2<br />

- ISO 200<br />

- Aperture f/11<br />

- Ignore the exposure line<br />

Instead of choosing a shutter<br />

speed, set the camera to Bulb (B)<br />

which allows you to keep the<br />

shutter open as long as you want.<br />

The longer you keep it open, the<br />

more bursts you will capture in a<br />

single shot.<br />

1. Use a sturdy tripod and cable release or wireless remote to trigger the shutter<br />

2. Set camera to 'Manual Mode' (Method 1) or 'Bulb' Mode (Method 2)<br />

3. Turn your onboard Flash OFF if you have one<br />

4. Turn OFF Autofocus and Image Stabilisation / Vibration Reduction<br />

5. Image Quality - RAW<br />

6. White Balance - AUTO<br />

7. Drive Mode - Single Shot<br />

8. Focus Manually on infinity<br />

SHORT NOTE<br />

When shooting with longer shutter speeds you need to use a tripod and remote release for<br />

sharp images. Sometimes when shooting on manual mode you need to ignore the exposure<br />

line and decide for yourself what shutter speed works best.<br />

ASSIGNMENT CARD: FIREWORKS


100 PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

ASSIGNMENT SHEETS<br />

NEW <strong>Photography</strong> <strong>Assignment</strong>s, covering everything you can imagine.<br />

Learn More https://www.slrphotographyguide.com/photo-assignments/<br />

LIGHT PAINTING<br />

This sheet will teach you how to blend light painting techniques along<br />

with a Milky Way landscape.<br />

ASSIGNMENT<br />

CSLRPholograpGuoe<br />

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=--=-· ..-......... ,,,,.,.. .......<br />

The purpose of light painting is to give recognizable detail to the landscape<br />

foreground so you only need to make one exposure. One shot makes post<br />

processing easier, as you don't have to combine separate exposures for the sky and<br />

foreground. Your light source can be something as simple as a flashlight, headlamp,<br />

flashlight app on your mobile phone, car headlights. i.e anything that gives off light.<br />

First step is to take test shots of the landscape with ambient light to make sure<br />

you've exposed correctly for the sky and stars. Once you have a good night time<br />

exposure, start light painting the scene, but don't change the camera settings.<br />

Camera Settings<br />

Manual Mode<br />

Shutter Speed 20-30 seconds<br />

Aperture: Wide open f/2 .8-f/4<br />

ISO 1600-3200<br />

Take a test shot to expose for the<br />

Milky Way or Stars first.<br />

Once you are happy with the results,<br />

then bring in the light painting.<br />

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<br />

" -<br />

1 . Use a tripod and remote release<br />

2. Set camera to Manual Mode<br />

3. Tum off Image Stabilisation/ Vibration Reduction<br />

4. Image Quality- RAW<br />

5. White Balance- Daylight/ Sunny<br />

6. Drive Mode- Single Shot<br />

7. Focus Manual<br />

HOW DID YOU GO?<br />

• Did you have fun experimenting with different light positions?<br />

• Were you able to capture the night sky and light painting on the foreground?<br />

ASSIGNMENT CARD: LIGHT PAINTING

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