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I and A Mag Sep19

Telford Magazine

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Gardening<br />

With the ground still warm from the summer<br />

sun <strong>and</strong> moisture levels in the soil increasing,<br />

September is the perfect time to create a new lawn.<br />

Using grass seed is far cheaper than using reasonable quality<br />

turf, plus you can choose a suitable grass mixture for the site <strong>and</strong><br />

it is easy to shape the lawn without having to cut pieces of turf.<br />

So how do you ensure a great green surface with your newly<br />

sown lawn? Examine the site first <strong>and</strong> calculate the total area to<br />

be seeded, then study the grass seed packs in your local garden<br />

centre. Many different types are available, but broadly speaking<br />

you will find yourself choosing from various grades of utility lawn<br />

(which usually contains a fair amount of rye grass to provide<br />

toughness), finer lawns that look more elegant but need more<br />

care, <strong>and</strong> mixtures suitable for lawns in partial shade.<br />

It will be about three weeks before the seedlings emerge <strong>and</strong><br />

then about ten weeks before the lawn can be cut, so bear this in<br />

mind when choosing your time to start.<br />

Clear the area you wish to sow by removing all weeds (including<br />

their roots), any old grass <strong>and</strong> any debris. Dig out or kill off any<br />

perennial weeds before you sow the lawn, either by h<strong>and</strong> or with<br />

a suitable weedkiller. One containing glyphosate will be carried<br />

down to the plant’s roots or rhizomes but will be deactivated on<br />

contact with the soil, meaning grass seed can be sown straight<br />

away.<br />

Dig the area over completely <strong>and</strong> consider the texture. Ideally<br />

you want a light, free-draining loam that does not become too<br />

dry in summer, nor waterlogged or compacted in winter. Improve<br />

drainage in heavy soil by adding horticultural s<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> some<br />

bulky organic matter, whereas light soil will retain moisture<br />

better if plenty of well-rotted organic matter is dug in.<br />

Next, rake over the soil repeatedly to achieve a good level surface<br />

that is free from large stones, any plant remains <strong>and</strong> other debris.<br />

Gauging the level by eye is normally adequate, but if necessary<br />

use a system of pegs <strong>and</strong> a spirit level.<br />

Incorporate some granular general fertilizer, raking it in or<br />

spreading it evenly over the prepared area. To prevent pockets<br />

of subsidence forming, firm the area by treading it over evenly in<br />

flat-soled shoes or boots, keeping your feet level as they hit the<br />

soil, paying particular attention to the edges.<br />

GOING GREEN<br />

If you think the site is not level, drive in pegs along each side of<br />

the patch. Mark each peg at the same distance from the top <strong>and</strong><br />

tap them in to the same height, using the mark as your guide.<br />

Use a spirit level <strong>and</strong> (if necessary) string attached between the<br />

pegs to check the levels, then re-rake the soil using the markers<br />

on the pegs as a guide.<br />

For lawn seed to germinate quickly you need warm, moist<br />

conditions so avoid hot, dry weather <strong>and</strong> wait until just before<br />

rain is forecast.<br />

Using the directions on the pack, weigh out the quantity of grass<br />

seed needed for one square metre. Use four upturned flowerpots<br />

to mark the corners of a one metre square plot <strong>and</strong> distribute the<br />

seed evenly over the plot, thus showing you how the lawn seed<br />

should look when sown correctly. Obviously there is no need to<br />

mark out each square metre, but with this as a guide you should<br />

do perfectly well.<br />

Never sow too thinly as this encourages weeds to invade <strong>and</strong><br />

makes a thin <strong>and</strong> moth-eaten looking lawn initially. You should<br />

also avoid sowing too thickly as this will create poor-quality<br />

seedlings that are more inclined to die off because of the damp,<br />

muggy <strong>and</strong> overcrowded conditions.<br />

If you have a large lawn it may be worth considering borrowing<br />

or hiring a machine to sow the seed, but for most gardens h<strong>and</strong><br />

sowing is perfect. Sow the entire area with the lawn seed <strong>and</strong><br />

then lightly rake a thin layer of soil over the seed, so that much of<br />

it is at least partially incorporated into the soil.<br />

Water the surface regularly with a fine sprinkler or watering can<br />

so that the seed can germinate <strong>and</strong> the young grass seedlings<br />

start to grow. If birds are likely to be a problem, use a system<br />

of twigs or canes with taut cotton tied between them to keep<br />

the birds off the area. Alternatively, use garden netting but make<br />

sure whatever you use is taut, or birds may get tangled up in it.<br />

Visit Pippa’s website www.pippagreenwood.com <strong>and</strong> you’ll find Pippa’s Septemberdispatch<br />

vegetable plant collection along with other gardening items: Nemaslug,<br />

atylish cloches, practical <strong>and</strong> pretty plant supports, the fantastic SpeedHoe,<br />

gardening tools, planters, Grower Frames, signed books <strong>and</strong> more! Or why not<br />

book Pippa for a gardening talk?<br />

by Pippa Greenwood<br />

64

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