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He was a Western student who went to Lahore and taught for a yean Ten years on, Jonathan<br />

ldle returns to Pakistan and India and reflects on the changes that have taken place both there<br />

and inside himself.<br />

Taken Fo?<br />

Granted<br />

n Nagpur Station at 5.OOam<br />

Rosie wondered if anyone<br />

would remember her ten years<br />

on, and would they care that<br />

she'd come back to see them? We<br />

needn't have worried; by lunchtime the<br />

Bishop had interrupted a staff meeting<br />

just to give us tea, and his secretary<br />

was organising our timetable. After<br />

that our main concern was being so<br />

warmly welcomed that we had no time<br />

for ourselves, attending a 'welcome<br />

dance' and hastily-arranged visits to<br />

development projects as if we were<br />

some kind of celebrity.<br />

I had had similar concerns arriving in<br />

Pakistan-who would still be around,<br />

and would it feel awkward to turn up<br />

ten years after losing touch? lt was in<br />

fact exhilarating to meet my closest<br />

friends there. the school servants. They<br />

were equally delighted, and not only<br />

invited us to their homes to eat, but<br />

gave us presents because l'd got<br />

married since l'd last seen them.<br />

We were both returning after ten<br />

years-l had come to show Rosie<br />

Pakistan and she wanted to show me<br />

lndia. We both wanted to see people<br />

and places we had memories<br />

of<br />

-memories all the more intense as<br />

she had ended our relationship when we<br />

came back, but seven years later we'd<br />

got married. We also wanted to see how<br />

our own reactions would be different<br />

this time. As time went on it was those<br />

reactions that most fascinated us. lt<br />

was exciting to note how much I had<br />

changed, by noting such intense and<br />

different reactions to what we were<br />

experiencing.<br />

We didn't simply enjoy the<br />

overwhelming welcome from friends; we<br />

went back to our guest-house and<br />

discussed the limits of cross-cultural<br />

friendship and the nature of intimacy.<br />

We discussed the dynamics of power<br />

and the intrusion of wealth and poverty<br />

into relationships. We found, most days,<br />

a quick link between our experiences<br />

that day and the big questions of life.<br />

Take poverty and our reaction<br />

to it. Mark Tully's answer when<br />

asked how he copes with<br />

poverty is "l don't have to. The<br />

poor do". An equally striking<br />

answer might be "The same as<br />

we cope with the poverty in<br />

Britain". Even the word<br />

'poverty' is too abstract and<br />

sanitised for the destitution<br />

which we find unimaginable<br />

but which is normality for<br />

millions; Tully's answer hints<br />

at the thoughtless and<br />

abstract ease of the<br />

question. My answer<br />

implies that if we don't<br />

notice poverty till we reach<br />

lndia we have closed our<br />

Eating cake in a posh hotel<br />

and then walking past a<br />

beggar feels uncomfortable,<br />

but it is logically no worse<br />

than eating cake when we<br />

can't see the beggar.<br />

whether in Britain or lndia.<br />

We all do this every day,<br />

but it feels worse when the<br />

beggars are more<br />

numerous or their situation<br />

more extreme.<br />

But who is poor?<br />

Poverty is relative, and<br />

closely related to power<br />

So whilst in some ways<br />

we are richer-more<br />

advantaged<br />

-than most<br />

of those we met, in<br />

other ways there are<br />

people whose monthly<br />

wage I could drop out of<br />

fnovcmsnt 15<br />

my pocket and not notice, but who are<br />

no poorer than me in terms of their<br />

status and access to what their<br />

society offers. I got tired of<br />

being asked

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