NETJETS US VOLUME 10 2019

on the town
An international palate has been more
prevalent recently in the City of Light.
traditional French terracotta tiles, are usually
used on floors, but he’s put them on the walls,
which gives this place a lot of warmth. The
dining room is found in a mezzanine, and
most seats are at a long, large table d’hôte in
front of the open kitchen where Atsumi and
his team work. The menu evolves constantly
but runs to dishes like veal tartare with cèpes
and haddock; roasted monkfish with squid’s
ink; and a luscious pithiviers—a short-crust
pastry torte, filled with duck, foie gras, and
spinach, and garnished with quince puree.
Close by, in the hip 10th arrondissement,
chef Amandine Chaignot has unveiled
POULICHE (poulicheparis.com). After working
as executive chef at the Rosewood Hotel in
London and the Hotel Raphael in Paris, her
own restaurant bristles with inventive and
refined market-driven dishes. Vegetables play
a major role here—most of the starters are
vegetarian, including a soup of different grains;
maize tempura; and grilled halloumi with sage
oil. An all-vegetarian dinner menu is served
every Wednesday night. Main courses include
skate wing with broccoletti and pickled pears;
wild duck with cabbage and chestnuts; and
sautéed turnips and cèpes with figs.
In addition to vegetables, an international
palate has been more prevalent recently, and
nowhere is this more evident than COYA
(coyarestaurant.com). After London, Dubai,
Abu Dhabi, and Monte Carlo, the Peruvian
institution favored by beaux mondes has
launched a branch in Paris’ Beaupassage, a tiny
Left Bank lane with a gastronomic vocation.
Start your meal with one of its superb pisco
sours, and then tuck into dishes like sea bass
ceviche with red onion, sweet potato, and white
corn; yellowfin tuna tiradito with sesame seeds
and pickled cucumber; and arroz Nikkei (rice
with sea bass, lime, and chili). There’s also great
people-watching at this see-and-be-seen place.
Israel-born, Paris-based chef Assaf Granit
had massive success with Balagan, his first
foray in the French capital, and now his
team—Uri Navon, Dan Yosha and Tomer
Lanzman—have a hit on their hands again
with SHABOUR (restaurantshabour.com), a
tiny Israeli-Mediterranean bolthole with
an open kitchen surrounded by a pink
marble counter where guests are served. Its
festive, low-lit, speakeasy-like atmosphere
and excellent cooking, including dishes
like eggs marinated in tea slicked with
tahini and garnished with salmon eggs
gravlax with horseradish cream, red mullet
with braised fennel, and Wagyu beef with
freekeh, aubergine caramel, and girolles
mushrooms, has made it one of the most
sought-after new addresses in Paris—and
an apt example of the city’s continuing
culinary swagger.
BENOIT LINERO, NICOLAS LOBBESTAEL
The open kitchen at Pavyllon; facing page: the dining room at La Scene.
NetJets 63