Explore More Issue 18

EXPLORE more 

See more of the world with Viking / Winter 2019 £3.95 

BACK-TO-NATURE 

NORDIC INTERIORS 

TOP 5 

MUSICAL 

CITIES 

TO VISIT 

IN 2020 

The call of 

THE WILD 

Join our resident 

expert to learn more 

about wildlife at sea 

OFC_EM18_FINAL.indd 1 05/11/2019 16:04

“…literally dazzling” 

Tom Holland, 

The Sunday Times 

CANOPIC COFFINETTE OF TUTANKHAMUN 

150 ORIGINAL ARTEFACTS FINAL WORLD TOUR 

2 November 2019 – 3 May 2020 

Book Tickets:

WELCOME 

Welcome to our winter edition of Explore More 

We have had a brilliant year here at Viking and are thoroughly looking forward to the year 

ahead. We recently had the pleasure of meeting many of our guests at a special event we held 

at Cadogan Hall in London, where we gathered for a concert conducted by the wonderful 

Debbie Wiseman, OBE. As we filmed the concert we are delighted that many of you will be able 

to view it whilst travelling on board our ships. 

We are also thrilled to be sponsoring the London leg of Tutankhamun: Treasures of the 

Golden Pharoah which has recently opened at the Saatchi Gallery. We interviewed curator Tarek 

El Awady to find out more about this historic exhibition (page 38) which we have loved being 

involved with, especially as Egypt is one of our most popular destinations. 

As ever, we have a range of inspiring travel features and information-packed City Guides, as 

well as food writer Karen Burns-Booth’s recipes from Russia (page 60). Nordic-inspired interiors 

are one of the things that defines Viking, and we loved reading more about journalist Laura 

Ivill’s favourite areas of Viking Jupiter on her trip to see the midnight sun. 

We have rounded up our top five musical destinations around the world (page 28) and the 

award-winning garden designer Paul Hervey-Brookes shares his insights on Egyptian plants and 

their ancient meanings (page 40). 

We wish you all a very happy Christmas and New Year, and look forward to seeing more of 

you at our events in 2020. Until then... 

Best wishes, 

Managing Director, Viking UK 

Tweet us: 

@VikingCruises 

Like us: 

facebook.com/VikingCruisesUK 

Follow us: 

instagram.com/vikingcruises 

 

Email us: 

uk-marketing@vikingcruises.com 

Find out more 

about the 

Viking Explorer 

Society 

on our website 

WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK 3 

003_EM18_WELCOME.indd 3 05/11/2019 16:53

OFC_EM18_FINAL.indd 1 05/11/2019 16:04 

56 

18 

Contents 

IN THIS ISSUE... 

EXPLORE more 

See more of the world with Viking / Winter 2019 £3.95 

BACK-TO-NATURE 

NORDIC INTERIORS 

10 VIKING SURPISE Seeking out the midnight sun on 

a voyage from Bergen to London proves an eye-opening 

experience for television producer Fi Cotter Craig 

18 SYMMETRY AT SEA Viking Jupiter’s Scandinavian 

interiors take centre stage on Laura Ivill’s cruise to Norway 

TOP 5 

MUSICAL 

CITIES 

TO VISIT 

IN 2020 

The call of 

THE WILD 

Join our resident 

expert to learn more 

about wildlife at sea 

32 THE CALL OF THE WILD Viking’s resident dolphin and 

whale expert shares his top tips for spotting wildlife while at sea 

38 TUTANKHAMUN’S TREASURES Before a new exhibit 

on the pharaoh comes to London, we speak to the curator 

Cover: The elegant Scandinavian art 

and design on board our ocean ships 

40 PHARAOHS AND FLOWERS Paul Hervey-Brookes 

takes a closer look at the Ancient Egyptians’ plant obsession 

42 TUNE IN Classic FM presenter John Brunning talks to us 

about music, travel and his bucket-list destinations 

4 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019 

004-005_EM18_CONTENTS.indd 4 05/11/2019 16:07

10 

70 

72 

46 

FEATURES 

16 BEAUTIFUL BORDEAUX Charming châteaux and 

world-class wine combine on this French river cruise 

24 SUNLIGHT SPECTACULAR All you need to know 

about capturing the magic of the midnight sun on camera 

28 TOP FIVE MUSIC DESTINATIONS Love music and 

travel? These are our pick of the best places to visit 

48 WIND POWER Kinderdijk is an unexpected highlight 

of a holiday to the Netherlands for writer Kate Finney 

54 POSTCARD FROM NORWAY Tiny fishing port 

Honningsvåg was a big hit on a recent cruise to Norway 

56 RUSSIAN DISCOVERY Karen Burns-Booth gives a 

day-by-day account of her journey along Russia’s waterways 

74 MY UKRAINE Viking UK Senior Marketing Executive 

Olya Krvavych shares what she loves about her home country 

REGULARS 

6 VIKING NEWS The latest news and events 

8 YOUR WORLD Letters and photos from our guests 

46 SEASONAL CHECK LIST Update your winter wardrobe 

with tartan staples and metallic accessories 

52 KARINE’S TRAVELS Karine Hagen talks Nordic design 

62 BOOK CLUB Viking readers’ share their favourite books 

68 CITY GUIDE: ST. PETERSBURG All golden spires and 

gilded domes, Russia’s Imperial capital never fails to wow 

70 CITY GUIDE: ISTANBUL The only city to straddle two 

continents is a magical meeting place of East and West 

72 CITY GUIDE: RIO DE JANEIRO Urban beaches, 

a cinematic backdrop and seductive samba beats merge in 

this hypnotic South American hotspot 


004-005_EM18_CONTENTS.indd 5 05/11/2019 16:06

Viking NEWS 

A round-up of the latest travel news and events 

from the world of Viking 

ULTIMATE 

WORLD CRUISE 

Setting sail on 31 August 2019, 

Viking will attempt to set a 

new Guinness World Record 

for the Longest Continuous 

Passenger Cruise with its 

245-day roundtrip journey 

embarking from London. 

Guests on Viking Sun will be 

able to visit six continents, 51 

countries and 111 ports as they 

circumnavigate the world. The 

Ultimate World Cruise itinerary 

also offers overnight stays in 

23 cities around the world and 

a varied cultural programme of 

activities and excursions. 

VIKING RETURNS 

TO TIBET 

Viking guests can once again 

travel to Tibet with us on the aptly 

named Roof of the World journey, 

from Beijing-Tibet-Shanghai or in 

reverse. Departing April-October 

2020, the 17-day trip will take 

in the soaring Himalayas as well 

as Shanghai’s futuristic skyline, 

the Great Wall of China, Xian’s 

Terracotta Army and Beijing’s 

Forbidden City. In Tibet, guests 

will visit Lhasa, the spiritual and 

cultural centre, known as the 

“City of the Sun”, and will have 

the chance to take tea with a local 

family and to learn more about the 

Buddhist tradition. 

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK 


006-007_EM18_News.indd 6 04/11/2019 15:39

NEWS 

NEW CARIBBEAN TRIPS 

Due to popular demand, we have just released 

two fabulous new cruises around the legendary 

Caribbean islands. The 13-day Iconic Southern 

Caribbean is a round-trip from Miami taking 

in the glorious white-sand beaches of Aruba, 

the breath-taking scenery of St.Kitts as well as 

the colourful city of San Juan in Puerto Rico. 

Meanwhile, Caribbean Island Treasures takes 

in Antigua’s beautiful beaches, St. Lucia’s lush 

mountains, historic St. Kitts and St. Thomas. 

CLASSIC FM LIVE 

WITH VIKING 

Earlier this year in October, as part of our 

ongoing partnership with Classic FM, we 

supported another Classic FM Live concert at 

London's Royal Albert Hall. Our relationship 

with the radio station, however, extends 

beyond these spectacular events – we stream 

Classic FM across our river and ocean ships, 

so Viking guests can tune in and listen to the 

classical music radio station wherever in the 

world they happen to be travelling with us. 

PICASSO AND PAPER 

We are excited to announce that 

we’re joining forces with the Royal 

Academy of Arts to sponsor the 

new exhibition, opening in January 

2020, devoted to Picasso’s use of 

paper. Featuring over 300 works 

from Picasso’s prolific 80-year 

career, Picasso and Paper will be the 

most comprehensive showcase to 

look at his imaginative and original 

uses of paper. royalacademy.org.uk 

DATES FOR 

THE DIARY 

Come and see us at one 

of these fantastic events: 

5-8 December 2019 

Country Living Magazine 

Christmas Fair 

Harrogate 

16-19 January 2020 

Destinations The 

Holiday & Travel Show, 

Manchester 

EventCity Manchester 

25 January – 

13 April 2020 

Picasso and Paper 

Royal Academy of Arts, 

London 

30 January – 

2 February 2020 

Destinations The Holiday 

& Travel Show 

Olympia London 

AWARDS SEASON 

We are thrilled to have won the 

following awards over the last 

few months: 

THE BRITISH CRUISE AWARDS 2019 

Best River Cruise Line and Best Overall Cruise 

Line 2019 

TRAVEL BULLETIN STAR AWARDS (as voted by 

Travel Bulletin’s travel agent readers) 

Star River Cruise Company Award 

From left to right: Viking's Jenny Wade and Andrew Schweitzer at the Travel Bulletin 

Star Awards; Viking's Sabrina Piscioneri, Gaynor Lee, Bryony Gammon, Laura Radford, 

Claire Tibbles and Laurent Ferros at The British Cruise Awards. 

FOOD AND TRAVEL MAGAZINE AWARDS 2019 

Best River Cruise Line 


006-007_EM18_News.indd 7 04/11/2019 15:41

Your WORLD 

We catch up with where you’ve been and what you’ve seen 

on your Viking cruises...and where you’re off to next 

YOUR LETTERS 

The royal treatment 

Throughout our Danube Waltz 

cruise we were treated like royalty 

by the Viking Egil crew. We had 

not been to anywhere east of 

Germany before and found it 

very interesting. It was our eighth 

cruise with Viking and number 

nine is already booked. 

Robert and Adrienne Atkinson 

Top marks for detail 

My wife and I returned a week 

ago from our Rhine Getaway, 

which was our fourth Viking river 

cruise. Every time we say it cannot 

get any better, but once again 

the crew excelled themselves. 

Massive praise goes to Andrew 

Lazarus, the programme director, 

and Nebojsa Milosevic, the hotel 

manager. I’d also like to give a 

special mention to the two waiters 

who looked after us, Darren and 

Enrico. They were so attentive and 

and a credit to the company. No 

other river cruise line can match 

Viking’s attention to detail. 

Mr and Mrs R Hunt 

Over the moon 

We have recently returned from 

the excellent Waterways of the 

Tsars cruise and would like to 

commend three people who 

gave that ‘little extra’. Firstly, 

maître d’ Pavel, whose calm 

and efficient management of 

the restaurant was noteworthy. 

Secondly, Chef Leonidas; we took 

the kitchen tour, which is a really 

worthwhile optional extra. It is so 

easy to forget the kitchen crew 

members, who are rarely seen 

but essential to meal times, and 

there was clear evidence of an 

excellently organised and happy 

team. Thirdly, Tatiana Prokofieva, 

our guide on the Moscow City 

Tour and at the Cosmonautics 

Museum. I’ve long had an interest 

in space and can claim a certain 

knowledge of the Soviet/Russian 

achievements, but her knowledge 

on the subject was exceptional. 

Particularly good service deserves 

to be recognised, so to them all, 

very many thanks. 

John Boyes 

Making memories 

on the Mekong 

We went on the Magnificent 

Mekong cruise this August and 

added on an extension to Ha Long 

Bay (which is so worth doing as 

it’s nature at its best). We were 

not disappointed at all by the 

trip: the hotels were exceptional, 

Viking Mekong was lovely, and 

all the staff were welcoming and 

attentive. A big thank you also 

to the chef and local guides. The 

guides on all our Viking holidays 

have been of a high standard, but 

Bob (real name Tuyen Nguyen), 

our programme director on this 

cruise, has to be the best we’ve 

ever had. He was so caring, 

as well as knowledgeable and 

passionate about his country. His 

warm nature and sense of humour 

really helped to make our holiday 

a wonderful one. 

Paul and Brenda Andrew 

Viking triumphs again 

We have just returned from 

our river cruise from Bucharest 

to Budapest on board Viking 

Aegir. This was our fourth cruise 

with Viking and as usual it was 

outstanding. Everything from the 

staff and facilities to the itineraries 

and guides were exceptional, far 

better than any other company 

we have travelled with. I would 

like to give an extra mention to 

Mircea Poena, our programme 

director, who was such a helpful, 

wonderful and sincere person. It 

was such a pleasure to travel with 

him on the Danube. 

Glenis Green 

STAR LETTER 

We have just returned from our 

fifth Viking cruise (Empires of the 

Mediterranean) and once again had a 

really successful trip. We were initially 

attracted by the itinerary, especially as 

we hadn’t visited Slovenia, Bosnia or 

Montenegro before. We went on six of 

the organised tours and particularly 

appreciated being able to escape 

into the countryside and avoid the 

most crowded destinations. We had 

previously visited Dubrovnik and 

Santorini, so we elected to visit Mostar 

and cruise the caldera – both very 

well-organised trips with knowledgeable 

and articulate guides, who gave us the 

a very good appreciation of the history, 

culture and politics of the region. 

Christopher and Maureen Powell 

You could win... 

...a £50 M&S gift 

voucher if your letter 

is chosen as our 

star letter. Email us 

at uk-marketing@ 

vikingrivercruises.com 

PHOTOS: © AWL IMAGES/ISTOCK 


008-009_EM17_YourWorld.indd 8 04/11/2019 15:52

LETTERS 

YOUR PHOTOS #MyVikingStory 

Follow us on Instagram @VikingCruises for more inspirational images 

Cruise highlights 

Clockwise, from top left: 

1. Take the Nile cruise! Take the 

Nile cruise! Forcedexit 

2. We ate and drank our way 

through Europe on Viking’s Grand 

European Tour. Peg Dunsworth 

3. Peeked out my balcony window 

upon waking and saw this view – I 

knew a great day on the Danube 

was in store. Claudia Rabinowitz 

4. On the Rhine Getaway learning 

how to make Flammkuchen with 

the sous chef. Candis Hines 

5. The stunning view from our 

stateroom this morning – what an 

amazing start to our day on the 

Cities of Light cruise. Marc Geisler 

6. Sailing on Viking Sky towards 

Iceland I looked out of my window 

and saw this rainbow. Bob Feinberg 

7. It is all Van Gogh all the time in 

Arles. Peter Delean 

8. A tufted puffin in flight captured 

on the Wildlife Photography 

excursion in Kodiak. Ian Withnall 

9. Amazing day in Köln and an 

amazing week on Viking Tialfi. A 

big thank you to the crew who 

treated us like royalty. Karin Freis 

YOUR MESSAGES 

Hit 

List 

Everyone should add Lucerne in 

Switzerland to their wish list – it 

was an amazing city. 

Rowland Taylor 

I watched the Downton Abbey 

film on Saturday and it was 

fantastic. I enjoyed every single 

minute of it and so did my 

husband. It’s a real feel good 

movie and I would recommend. 

Anne Moffatt 

I have had wonderful experiences 

with the crew on all my Viking 

cruises (both river and ocean). 

They are top notch and I would 

like to thank Viking for providing 

a wonderful time for us. 

Kim King 

I can’t wait until our next cruise. 

Congrats on winning the awards 

for best cruise line and best river 

cruise line again this year... no 

one can come near to Viking! 

Joyce Stewart 

Viking, thank you so much for 

the lovely little cookbook I’ve just 

received following our recent trip 

on the lower half of the Danube. 

There are some great recipes. 

Elizabeth Dodds 

We’ve just got back from our 

Viking Homelands ocean cruise 

and saw The Little Mermaid 

statue on one of our tours in 

Copenhagen. Great times. 

Marilyn Christie 

I’m doing the Rhine & Moselle 

Discovery river cruise in June and 

cannot wait to visit Strasbourg. It 

looks like such a beautiful city. 

Amanda Levell 

We went 

with Viking 

on its first 

Caribbean 

cruise earlier 

this year. 

It was a 

wonderful 

experience. I 

would highly 

recommend 

going if 

you can. 

Dawn 

Henson 


008-009_EM17_YourWorld.indd 9 04/11/2019 15:53

VIKING 

SURPRISE 

Television producer Fi Cotter Craig discovers 

more than she bargained for on a trip 

to witness the midnight sun 

Full disclosure. I am a 

massive Viking fan, and 

asking me to write about a 

Viking cruise is guaranteed 

to make me go full Jane McDonald 

and use far too many superlatives; 

fabulous, amazing, fabulous, 

wonderful, great, fabulous – all 

are synonymous with any Viking 

cruise, but unlike Jane, I’ll try to 

restrain myself. 

That the cruise was going to be 

excellent was a given, what I wasn’t 

expecting was the surprises. 

It all began in Bergen, which it 

turns out is a mighty and important 

Norwegian city, has a storied 

history, ancient wooden buildings, 

is the home to the Viking ocean 

fleet, and was once part of the 

Hanseatic League. Basically a 

medieval version of the EU which 

England joined late and left early. 

No surprise there. 

After a whole day in Bergen and 

being the perfect passenger – you 

know the sort of thing, looking for 

a classy fridge magnet, going up 

and down a mountain, trying to 

buy a hand-stitched Norwegian flag 

for less than 500 euros (impossible), 

and eating my bodyweight in 

cinnamon buns, drinks, dinner 

and lively chat – I was ready for 

bed by about 9.30. I headed to my 

stateroom, got into my pyjamas and 

went to bed, ready to sleep. 

Sleep, what was I thinking of ? 

I was in the land of the midnight 

sun. It may have been almost 

midnight but it was practically 

still afternoon outside. I know 

010-015_EM18_MidnightSun.indd 10 04/11/2019 16:29

TRAVEL 

This page: 

Fi loved 

experiencing 

the midnight 

sun whilst at sea 





TRAVEL 

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/CATHERINE COLLINS 

I could have closed the curtains 

but we were gliding past savagely 

beautiful islands whose Thor-like 

like presence would have been 

rude to ignore. These magnificent 

monoliths backlit by the sun 

were mesmerising. 

Mile after mile, despite the 

simple repetition of sea and austere 

islands, I couldn’t tear myself away. 

There was nuance in the shapes, the 

birds that clustered 

on and around them, 

the sparse flora and 

fauna nestling in 

nooks and clinging 

to crannies, the way 

the sunlight reflected 

in the deep, dark water made 

every second thrillingly different 

and created a hunger for the next 

moment of magic. I think I finally 

fell asleep at about 03.30. The 

midnight sun is one of those things 

people can tell you about until they, 

or you, are blue in the face. You 

need to see it to believe it and I can 

pretty much guarantee you’ll be as 

surprised and seduced as I was. 

After that the surprises came 

thick and fast. So thick and fast 

in fact, I nearly missed the 

second one. 

Breakfast, 07.30, Day Two. 

The important bit here is ‘Day 

Two’. Late night island spotting is 

exhausting, but nothing comes in 

the way of breakfast, and breakfast 

in a Viking World Café is just the 

best. I was steaming full speed 

ahead past reception and heading 

for the eggs benedict when I 

realised the smiling Maitre d’ had 

said ‘Good Morning Miss Cotter 

Craig’. Hang on a minute, I had 

only been on board for just over 

24 hours, there were 900 people on 

Viking Sea, and yet he was able to 

greet me, and every passenger who 

came in to breakfast by name. As 

the cruise continued I discovered 

this was standard with so many of 

the staff – the stateroom stewards, 

the security team who waved us on 

and off the ship, the shore staff, the 

waiters and waitresses, the ladies in 

the spa – everywhere. Now that’s a 

surprise like a warm hug. 

Next, Geirangerfjord. To be 

You need to see the midnight sun to 

believe it and I can guarantee you’ll be 

as surprised and seduced as I was 

honest I had been a bit sceptical 

about the fjord part of this cruise, 

I’m Scottish, I live on the shores of 

Loch Linnhe, have swum in Loch 

Ness and have even taken a boat 

out on Loch Lomond, so what on 

earth could a fjord offer that my 

beloved Scottish lochs didn’t? Quite 

a lot it turned out. 

The first thing that took my 

breath away were the farm houses 

precariously positioned hundreds of 

metres atop fortress-like walls rising 

from who knows what depths, and 

accessible only by narrow vertical 

tracks. That’s bad enough, but if 

you were a small child or animal 

there was a pulley and basket 

combo to hoist you from sea level 

to the top. Extraordinary. 

However if anyone had asked 

me what sort of things I’d expect 

to find growing there (unlikely, 

but stick with me) I would have 

said; carrots, potatoes, peas, beans, 

maybe the odd turnip, but almost 

certainly not apricots. But grow 

there they do. Geirangerfjord is 

62 degrees north and only a few 

hundred miles south of the Arctic 

Circle, and here the most delicious 

and northerly apricots in the world 

thrive and grow. Arctic apricots? 

Yes please. I really did need a little 

lie down after all this overwhelm 

and it still wasn’t 09.00. 

Then we got off the ship and 

went for a very Norwegian hike, 

I say very Norwegian because 

it involved walking up some 

incredibly steep hills quite fast. 

There was just 

something so 

intriguing about 

Geiranger that a bit 

like the adventurous 

schoolgirls in Picnic 

at Hanging Rock we 

felt the urge to walk higher and 

higher, but mercifully without 

the disastrous consequences that 

befell them. 

The higher we went the more 

impossibly bucolic it became, 

from flower meadows brimming 

with welcoming cheeriness to 

untrimmed billowing hedges, 

the smell of summer grass, 

Clockwise from 

far left: A view 

from Viking Sea 

as the ship 

approaches the 

Lofoten Islands; 

Lupins growing 

in the Nordic 

countryside; the 

picturesque 

fishing village of 

Honningsvåg; Fi 

was surprised to 

discover apricots 

grow so close to 

the Arctic Circle 





TRAVEL 

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/CATHERINE COLLINS 

the rush of mountain streams, 

small vertiginous fields bursting 

with multi-coloured wildflowers; 

campions, bog cotton (here it has 

had an upgrade to Arctic cotton), 

buttercups, cornflowers, saxifrage, 

sedums and poppies. If all that 

hadn’t been enough, the sudden 

appearance of a pack of llamas 

and herd of bell-ringing goats 

on the track in front of us just 

seemed normal for Norway. In 

retrospect they were just another 

wonderful surprise in one of the 

most beautiful and individual 

countries in the world. 

Every day the surprises came 

when you least expected them, like 

a chain of beautiful bridges in the 

Arctic Sea linking one remote tiny 

island with a handful of humans 

and some sheep to another tiny 

and remote island with a handful 

of humans and some sheep. I am 

positive that if you could look 

down on it from space they would 

create a linking pattern as beautiful 

as the DNA helix. 

In every port we had the joy 

of experiencing the seductive 

attraction of a new place; the 

smells, the prices, unfathomable 

things in shops, hummus as a snack 

for customers in a high end clothes 

shop, confident Scandinavian 

friendliness, unheard of brands 

of confectionery, ancient paving 

stones, the odd tram rattling 

politely past or the terrifying ski 

jump high above TromsØ, a town 

inside the Arctic Circle at the top 

of the world and the middle of 

nowhere. Norway was both just like 

home and like nowhere else. 

Other surprise highlights? Being 

beaten by birch twigs in the spa 

(really, try it!), eating king crab 

fresh from the sea and cooked in 

a yurt, huge rapacious sea eagles 

being attacked by furious, tiny terns 

in the Lofotens. Shetland, part 

of Scotland, but with an ancient 

Norwegian soul, the lush treeless 

greenness of Orkney and the 

standing stones that made me stand 

and weep. All never to be forgotten 

and just when I thought none of 

these could be beaten – they were. 

Like all great hosts Viking saved the 

best surprise til last. 

The last night of a cruise is 

always a bittersweet affair, not only 

is there the sadness of it being over, 

and goodbyes to be said, but far, far 

worse – the horror of packing. 

Why did I not realise that I really 

didn’t need two huge reindeer skins 

from TromsØ, and how on earth 

was I going to deal with the 

25 Viking helmets (plus horns) 

for everyone at work, then there 

was the orange and green superkingsize 

‘limited-edition’ blanket 

from the art gallery in Orkney. 

My last night was turning into 

a disaster. 

Mercifully I am easily distracted, 

and a medley of hits from Elvis, 

Little Eva, The Beatles, Chubby 

Checker and The Supremes drifting 

down from the top deck saved me. 

Anything was better than wrestling 

the with Viking helmets so I legged 

it up to Deck 7 to see what was 

happening. Nothing prepared 

me for what was happening. A 

Happening was happening. 

The house band was setting 

the night on fire, the singers 

were belting out hits from the 

sixties, and the passengers were 

dancing. Boy were they dancing. 

The Locomotion, The Swim, 

The Mashed Potato, The Twist, 

The Frug – they still had all the 

moves, maybe a bit slower and less 

exuberant than in their prime, but 

they were giving it everything. 

Watching them dance, was life 

affirming and joyous. I will never 

forget it, and I suspect nor will 

they. For about an hour at the end 

of their cruise they were all sweet 

sixteen once more and in that 

moment somewhere in the North 

Sea had their whole lives ahead of 

them again. 

That really is a money-can’t-buy 

experience and ‘surprising’ really 

doesn’t touch the sides. But then, 

that’s a Viking cruise for you. 

A 15-day Into the Midnight Sun 

trip in 2021 starts from £5,290pp. 

vikingcruises.co.uk 

Clockwise, from 

far left: A view 

of the Lofoten 

Islands in Norway; 

one of the bridges 

linking isolated 

islands; Fi meets 

a Giant Crab; the 

Arctic Cathedral 

in Tromsø 



ITINERARY 

Beautiful Bordeaux 

Discover UNESCO-listed treasures, charming châteaux and 

inviting ports on this river cruise through Bordeaux – a region 

synonymous with fine wine and fine living 

PHOTOS: © AWL IMAGES 

Above: Place de la 

Bourse is a vision 

of elegance and 

symmetry at the 

heart of Bordeaux 

DAY 1 / BORDEAUX, FRANCE 

Arrive in Bordeaux, a charming city on the River 

Garonne in southwestern France renowned for its 

world-class wine, wonderfully preserved 18th-century 

landmarks and burgeoning arts scene. Get settled 

on your ship before joining an escorted evening 

walk through the city. 


Tour the city centre in the morning, taking in 

UNESCO-listed sites such as the neoclassical 

Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux and several spectacular 

churches. There will then be free time to explore the 

city’s vibrant pedestrian area before sailing upstream to 

Cadillac, a small commune with a 17th-century castle 

which gave its name to the American car brand. 

DAY 3 / CADILLAC (SAUTERNES), 

FRANCE 

Begin your day with a walking tour of Cadillac, then 

undertake an excursion to Sauternes. Here you’ll visit 

a château and learn how its prized wines are made. 

DAY 4 / LIBOURNE, FRANCE 

There’s much to see and do in Libourne, respected 

throughout France as a wine-making capital. Pick from 

a leisurely stroll through the picturesque city square, 

a trip to the Bergerac area for a truffle masterclass 

or a wine-tasting session at a nearby château. In the 

afternoon, visit Saint-Émilion, where charming medieval 

lanes call for exploration. 

DAY 5 / BOURG & BLAYE, FRANCE 

The day starts with either a walk around the historical 

village of Blaye or an optional excursion to Cognac, 

birthplace of one of the world’s best-known types 

of brandy. During lunch your ship sets sail for Blaye 

and its atmospheric citadel built in 1685 to protect 

the Gironde River and gates of Bordeaux. Be wowed 

by the dramatic fortification and the fine red wines. 

DAY 6 / PAUILLAC, FRANCE 

After a morning of sailing downstream, past islands 

and scenic countryside, arrive in Pauillac in the early 

afternoon for a wine country tour and tasting. Another 

treat awaits in the evening – dinner at a château set 

amid rolling vineyard-laced hills. 


A final morning of cruising will bring you back to 

Bordeaux, giving you more time to marvel at the city’s 

rich heritage and wonderful wine appellations. Or 

you could opt for a tour of the upscale seaside resort 

Arcachon, a boat ride along the estuary to Cap Ferret 

to taste the local oysters or a market visit accompanied 

by the Viking Chef. 


Enjoy breakfast on board before returning to the 

airport for your flight back home. 

The eight-day Châteaux, Rivers & Wine journey 

from Bordeaux roundtrip, starts from £2,045pp. 


016_EM18_Bordeaux.indd 16 04/11/2019 15:58

Explore Bordeaux 

on Châteaux, Rivers & Wine 

Nestled in the southwest corner of France lies the famous wine-producing region of 

Bordeaux. Stunningly beautiful and steeped in history, it is home to countless châteaux 

and vineyards, medieval towns and ancient cities. On an award-winning Viking Longship, 

sail the idyllic Gironde, Garonne and Dordogne from the UNESCO-listed city of Bordeaux 

to medieval Blaye and Saint-Émilion, visiting Cadillac, Sauternes, Pauillac and Bourg. 

Your journey ends with two nights back in the beautiful city of Bordeaux. Picturesque 

countryside, medieval towns, World Heritage Sites and, of course, exquisite food and 

wine – it is all awaiting your discovery. 

Every Viking river cruise includes: 

• Return flights from the UK, including 

flights from selected regional airports 

• A choice of staterooms and suites 

• Onboard meals 

• Quality wine, beer and soft drinks with 

lunch and dinner on board 

• Onboard Wi-Fi (connection speed may vary) 

• Expert guided excursions 

• Tea, coffee, snacks and bottled water on board 

• Onboard enrichment programme 

• Onboard gratuities 

2020 Châteaux, Rivers & Wine 

Eight days from £2,045pp 

Call 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk 

Price and availability are correct at time of going to print but are subject to change. Price is per person and is based 

on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available on Châteaux, Rivers & Wine, departing on selected dates 

in 2020. Single supplements apply. Prices valid until 31 December 2019. Gratuities included on board ship only. 

For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us. 

VRC_EM_A4_Bordeaux_Oct2019-v2.indd 1 29/10/2019 16:29:34

This page: The 

Explorers’ Lounge 

is the perfect 

place to sit and 

enjoy the views 

18 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019 

018-023_EM18_InteriorsLauraV2.indd 18 04/11/2019 16:44

TRAVEL 

Symmetry 

at sea 

Journalist Laura Ivill shines a light on the 

sumptuous Scandinavian interiors 

on board Viking Jupiter 

A 

trip along Norway’s 

west coast proved to 

be the perfect way 

to experience the 

dramatic beauty of this stunning 

coastline, whilst also providing 

the opportunity to explore 

Viking Jupiter, the sixth ship to 

join Viking’s impressive ocean 

fleet, in more detail. 

Like its five almost identical 

sister ships, Viking Jupiter was 

designed to be a floating boutique 

hotel, spacious and bright enough 

for its 930 guests never to feel 

crowded, yet intimate enough to 

make it their home-from-home. 

As I wandered through the ship, 

it seemed clear to me that Viking 

founder, Torstein Hagen, had his 

guests in mind when designing the 

myriad spaces, with a wonderful 

selection of picture-windows 

from which to enjoy the constantly 

changing views. 

My stateroom – softly decorated 

with blond woods, sea blues and 

Scandi textiles – reinforced the 

Norwegian design ethos that 

underpins the overall look of 

all Viking vessels. Staterooms 

are spacious, offer 24-hour room 

service and most importantly, 

feature their own balcony, essential 

for watching the world glide by. 

The architect responsible, 

Richard Riveire, had worked 

previously on the design of the 

Longships for Viking River 

Cruises, before moving on to 

work on Viking’s ocean fleet. 

Riveire’s background was in 


018-023_EM18_InteriorsLauraV2.indd 19 04/11/2019 16:44


above: The 

Aquavit Terrace 

caters for those 

keen on al-fresco 

dining; cosy 

snugs feature 

across the Viking 

fleet; sculptural 

furniture adds 

a unique touch; 

staterooms 

feature woven 

blankets and 

blackout curtains 

hotel design, a fact he initially 

assumed would count against him, 

but which had the opposite effect, 

making him the perfect candidate 

in the eyes of Torstein Hagen. 

All of Viking’s ocean ships are 

designed along 

almost identical 

lines, but with 

some ships 

offering special 

features, such as the planetariums 

onboard both Viking Jupiter and 

Viking Orion. 

One of the benefits of replicating 

the design and layout is the sense of 

familiarity it brings to repeat guests. 

The flow of interconnecting spaces 

ensures that guests can always find 

a special spot, suitable for reading, 

eating, socialising, or simply sitting 

and watching the world float by. 

I often took binoculars to 

dinner, so as never to miss a stormpetrel 

nor albatross, a lonesome 

fishing boat nor pods of orca out 

No wonder Viking aims to capture and convey 

the fresh back-to-nature spirit of its homeland 

hunting. I apprciated the ship’s 

authentic Scandinavian interior 

design – the clean lines, symmetry, 

sculptural furniture, warming 

woods, cosy cushions, handmade 

textiles and hygge hides. 

All of these touches worked 

together to ensure guests feel 

relaxed and recharged during 

their trip. It is easy to fall in love 

with Norway’s clean fresh air and 

quiet pace of life, and to appreciate 

the simplicity of sea, sky and earth. 

No wonder Viking aims to subtly 

capture and convey the fresh backto-nature 

spirit of 

its homeland. 

It would be 

madness not to. 

A thorough tour 

of the ship helped to familiarise 

the layout, and the Viking Art 

Guide is a clever app that led us all 

around Viking Jupiter by way of 

the curated art collection, another 

inspired offering from Viking that 

really helps you to settle into your 

environment and to broaden your 

understanding of the art onboard 



TRAVEL 

PHOTOS: © VIKING 

in the process. I particularly 

loved the digital animations of 

flowers unfolding in The Chef’s 

Table and the animation of the 

Bayeux Tapestry. Although most 

of the artwork, from etchings 

and paintings to photographs 

and ceramics, both bought and 

commissioned, are by Norwegian 

artists, I confess my favourites 

were by Kate Jenkins, a textile 

artist from Brighton, whose 

plates of seafood featuring squid, 

sardines, mussels, crayfish and 

scallops, are all amusingly and 

delicately crocheted and displayed, 

appropriately, in the World Café. 

In addition to the impeccablydesigned 

dining areas, the 

LivNordic Spa was another 




above: Feast 

on Norwegian 

specialities in 

Mamsen’s; one 

of Kate Jenkins’ 

crochet artworks; 

the LivNordic Spa 

is a spoiling affair 



TRAVEL 

FIVE 

FAVOURITE 

COSY 

CORNERS 

The light and airy 

Wintergarden 

is a relaxing 

destination for 

afternoon tea. 

Share a plate 

of pastries or 

indulge yourself 

with the whole 

three tiers. 

The perfect place 

to watch the 

world unfold is 

the Explorers’ 

Lounge at the 

bow of the ship. 

Cosy up on a 

favourite sofa with 

soft blankets and 

a hot drink. 

PHOTOS: © VIKING; KATE JENKINS 

highlight, featuring a mesmerising 

water-vapour fireplace, a traditional 

Nordic sauna and treatments and 

even a Snow Grotto. The real showstopper 

on Viking Jupiter – and on 

her sister ships – is the reception 

area known as the Wintergarden. 

Comfortable lounge chairs are 

arranged under an ingenious treelike 

wooden canopy, originally 

designed to hide the ceiling 

structure. A delicious afternoon 

tea is served daily, with musical 

entertainment provided by the 

ship’s onboard musicians. 

Overall, Viking’s impeccable 

interiors and clever design elements 

work to reinforce the seascapes 

and natural surroundings, and to 

heighten guests’ appreciation of the 

epic scenery, resulting in a journey 

for both the mind and the senses. 

For those 

who love to 

dine al fresco, 

the Aquavit 

Terrace is the 

ultimate spot 

for a bite to 

eat. Enjoy the 

views from the 

upper deck. 

The LivNordic 

Spa’s hot tub is 

always inviting, 

as are the 

heated stone 

loungers. For 

those feeling 

adventurous 

there is even a 

Snow Grotto. 

Keeping in touch 

with those back 

home has never 

been better thanks 

to the workstations 

tucked away 

under the atrium’s 

staircase next 

to the stunning 

Lichen Garden. 



This page: Chris 

experimented with 

various techniques 

in order to capture 

the magic of the 

midnight sun 


024-027_EM18_PhotoFeature.indd 24 05/11/2019 17:40

TRAVEL 

Sunlight 

SPECTACULAR 

Photographer and travel writer Chris Caldicott 

shares his tips for capturing the magic of 

the midnight sun 

Photographing the midnight 

sun of the Arctic Circle 

had been top of my 

wish list for many years. 

My dream came true this year 

on the Into The Midnight Sun 

cruise on Viking Sea sailing north 

from Bergen to Tromsø with 

the epic backdrop of the ancient 

glacier-carved landscape of fjords, 

waterfalls and islands. 

The spectacle of the midnight 

sun took me completely by 

surprise and exceeded all my 

expectations. Rather than the 

perpetual daylight I was expecting, 

the nights delivered some of the 

most stunning sunsets I have ever 

seen, lasting several hours as they 

seamlessly blended into a long 



This page: Chris 

recommends using 

mountains and 

clouds to shield 

the full force of 

the sun’s light 

lazy sunrise as the sun seemed to 

bounce off the North Pole. 

The length of these nightly, yet 

ever-changing, visual feasts of 

organic light-shows made sleep 

hard to fit into the cruise as 

the days were also filled with 

unmissable shore leave excursions 

like Nordic Walking hikes in 

the mountains and activities 

like Sea Eagle Safaris among the 

archipelagos of islands. 

The elevated outdoor terrace 

of Viking Sea’s Explorers’ Lounge 

proved to be the perfect stage to 

photograph the landscape as we 



TRAVEL 

cruised at a leisurely speed ever 

northwards, although there were 

still several technical challenges 

to overcome. 

Above, you’ll see some of the 

images I shot of the sunsets and 

sunrises. Due to daylight saving 

adjustments and time zones the 

sun actually reaches its lowest point 

around 0120 hours rather than 

midnight on our watches – this is 

the only time when its rays are soft 

enough to shoot directly into it. 

In these shots I hid or partially 

hid the sun behind the clouds or 

mountains, creating silhouettes to 

avoid the full power of the sun’s 

light burning straight into the lens 

and bleaching out the fabulous 

colours in the sky. This gave me the 

luxury of just setting the camera to 

Intelligent Auto and letting it chose 

its own optimum combination of 

aperture and shutter speed. 



TOP 5 

MUSICAL DESTINATIONS 

Music, whatever the genre and whatever the period, offers an 

unbeatable opportunity to sample a new culture or immerse 

yourself more fully in a familiar one, says travel writer Jo Cair 

ST. PETERSBURG, 

RUSSIA 

Russia’s second largest 

city is home to one of 

the most prestigious 

music schools in 

the world, the St. Petersburg 

Conservatory, so it’s unsurprising 

that there are so many celebrated 

composers associated with the 

place. Tchaikovsky enrolled at the 

school the year it opened in 1862, 

followed by Prokofiev in 1904 and 

Shostakovich in 1919. 

You can hear works by all 

three composers at the Mariinsky 

Theatre, which stands across the 

square. The historic theatre is one 

of the leading venues for opera 

and ballet in the world and hosts 

a large range of performances 

in its modern concert hall and 

chamber music spaces. 

The illustrious history of Russian 

ballet is told at the Samoilov 

Family Museum (a branch of the 

Saint Petersburg State Museum 

of Theatre and Music), which 

occupies the former home of the 

renowned 19th-century actor 

Vassily Vassilievich Samoilov. 

Alongside costumes and posters 

from the early days of Russian 

ballet, you’ll find memorabilia 

from the era of dance impresario 

Sergei Diaghilev. 

Another music-related 

excursion is the atmospheric 

Tikhvin Cemetery, where 

Tchaikovsky was buried following 

his death at the age of 53. Dating 

back to the early 19th Century, 

the graveyard is the final resting 

place of many Russian artists. 


028-031_EM18_Top5Music.indd 28 05/11/2019 09:27

CULTURE 

Clockwise, 

from below: 

Ballerinas at the 

historic Mariinsky 

Theatre; the 

Johann Strauss 

Monument in 

Vienna; a concert 

played in costume 

in the Mozarthaus 

VIENNA, AUSTRIA 

The Austrian capital is proud to call itself the ‘City 

of Music’ and it’s not hard to see why, given the 

enormous number of influential composers who lived 

and worked there over the centuries. Beethoven, 

Brahms, Strauss, Mahler, Haydn and Schubert are all 

associated with the city, but Vienna’s most famous 

export is surely Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, who 

composed many of his best-known works in the city. 

Mozart relocated to Vienna from his hometown of 

Salzburg to be closer to the music-loving Emperor 

Joseph II and the career opportunities available in 

Viennese high society. He lived all over the city but 

the flat where Mozart spent his happiest years – now 

a museum – is Vienna’s chief pilgrimage site for fans 

of the composer. As well as a place to get to know 

Mozart better, Mozarthaus Vienna hosts afternoon 

concerts twice a week in July and August. 

Mozart’s works are regularly performed by the 

Vienna Philharmonic orchestra, which plays at the 

beautiful 19th-century Musikverein concert hall, 

among other venues. Whatever the programme, it’s a 

treat to attend a concert in this jewel box-like hall. 

Another unmissable musical highlight is the Vienna 

State Opera, one of the grandest – and busiest – opera 

and ballet venues in the world. There’s a different 

performance almost every day of the week, with 

works by celebrated Viennese composers programmed 

alongside international names such as Giuseppe Verdi, 

George Bizet and Gaetano Donizetti. 

PHOTOS: ©ALAMY; ISTOCK 



BERGEN, 

NORWAY 

Edvard Grieg, 

the Norwegian 

composer best 

known for his 

Piano Concerto in 

A minor and Peer 

Gynt suites, was 

born in Bergen 

in 1843 and the 

city is justifiably 

obsessed with its most famous native 

son. Bergen hosts an extensive concert 

series of Grieg’s music in the beautiful 

surroundings of the medieval Holy 

Church of the Cross each summer (June 

to August) but there’s plenty to occupy 

classical music fans year-round. 

The composer lived in the same 

house, in Troldhaugen, just outside 

Bergen city centre, for 22 years and 

wrote many of his best works in a 

little hut overlooking the fjord. Now 

a museum, it is open to visitors all 

year and hosts daily lunchtime 

concerts and Sunday evening 

recitals from June to September. 

Grieg served as artistic director of 

the Bergen Philharmonic, one of the 

world’s oldest orchestras, between 

1880 and 1882. Today the orchestra is 

based at Grieg Hall in central Bergen, 

where it performs a varied programme 

of classical concerts, operas and 

contemporary works. 

Grieg suffered from poor health his 

whole life as a result of complications 

from a bout of tuberculosis in his youth, 

but worked relentlessly nonetheless, 

touring Europe extensively each year. 

Summers were spent getting back to 

nature at Troldhaugen; you can retrace 

his steps by exploring the hiking trails 

that criss-cross the seven mountains 

surrounding Bergen. Or for something 

a little less strenuous, there’s the 

Ulriken cable car. 


top left: A piano 

recital in Grieg 

Hall in Bergen; 

a local tavern in 

Lisbon; traditional 

dancers perfom in 

Xian; the exterior 

of Grieg Hall, 

one of Bergen’s 

landmarks 

XIAN, CHINA 

While Western classical music 

is known and loved in China, 

the same can’t be said for 

Chinese traditional music here 

in the West. Xian, a capital 

of 10 ancient dynasties and today one of 

China’s most visited cities, is a great place 

for culturally curious travellers. 

The Tang period (618-907), when 

Xian (then called Chang’an) was the 

most populous city in the world, was 

a particularly fruitful time for the 

development of music in China. The 

dynasty’s extensive trade links with Persia, 

the Arab world, India and the Malay 

peninsula meant that Xian’s cultural 

community was in constant flux, with 

both commercial and courtly music scenes 

reflecting the broad range of styles. One 

style of music thought to have originated 

during that era is Xian guyue, a type of 

ceremonial folk music that features wind 

and percussion. Placed on the UNESCO 

Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2009, it 

is performed both at indoor performances 

and outdoors, in street parades and 

at temple fairs. The Tang era greatly 

influenced Chinese opera today, with Tang 

Emperor Xuanzong founding the ‘Pear 

Garden’, China’s first academy of music, 

training musicians, dancers and actors. 

PHOTOS: ©ALAMY; ISTOCK 



CULTURE 

LISBON, PORTUGAL 

Any Lisboeta will tell you that one of the city’s 

must-do experiences is to wander among the cobbled 

alleyways, slip inside a tasca (tavern) and listen to 

Portugal’s haunting national soundtrack: fado. 

Translated as fate, fado is renowned for its deeply 

expressive and melancholic character. It originated 

in the early 19th century on the streets of Lisbon’s 

Alfama neighbourhood, and is usually accompanied 

by a Portuguese 12-string guitar. Each ballad speaks of 

life, passion and struggle, and evokes the Portuguese 

emotion of saudade – a longing for something lost. 

A newer variety of fado performed exclusively by 

men exists in the city of Coimbra. But Lisbon’s scene 

has always been dominated by women. In a homage 

to the undisputed queen of fado, Amália Rodrigues, 

most performers have traditionally cloaked themselves 

in a black shawl and donned red lipstick before belting 

out songs of heartache, lost sailors and tempestuous 

passions as their voices hover on the edge of a sob. 

Fado is held in such high regard that UNESCO 

recognised the art form on its Intangible Cultural 

Heritage List in 2011. Although tavern performances 

are more authentic to the music’s working class roots, 

there are some dinner-and-a-show experiences at 

adegas in the city, which showcase the country’s top 

singers. But no matter where you watch fado, there 

are some unwritten rules: remain completely silent, put 

down your utensils, and don’t order a drink or enter 

the club until the performer has finished their song. 



THE CALL 

OF THE WILD 

Robin Petch, aka ‘The Whale and Dolphin Man’, is passionate 

about studying and protecting the marine environment. Here he 

reveals how he passes his knowledge on to Viking guests 

This page, top to 

bottom: A Brown 

Booby hitchhiking 

on the foremast 

of Viking Sun; 

a Harbour Seal 

spotted in east 

Russian waters 

from the deck 

of Viking Orion 

Opposite: A 

pod of common 

dolphins breach 

the water in the 

Bay of Biscay 

My first Viking voyage also happened to be 

Viking Star’s first transatlantic crossing, 

In the Wake of the Vikings, in September 

2016. This itinerary was particuarly good 

for spotting whales and dolphins, and guests reported 

how the atmosphere and 

activity in and forward of the 

Explorers’ Lounge was similar 

to that found on an expedition 

ship. This is something I now 

try to recreate on every voyage 

by involving guests in spotting 

and recording the wildlife, and 

providing opportunities to ask 

questions and share stories. 

Each wildlife encounter 

is carefully logged with a 

latitude and longitude, and 

data about visibility and sea 

conditions. Guests can access 

and add to this ongoing record, 

which is used to help further 

our understanding of the 

movements and distribution of 

whales, dolphins and porpoises. 

The first lecture is usually a 

rundown of what we are likely 

to see on the cruise, especially 

the whales, dolphins and 

porpoises, but also the other 

creatures to look out for. Later 

talks look in more detail at 

particular species, environments 

or conservation issues. Then 

every sea day, and often when 

we enter and leave port, my 

wife Kris and I will be on 

deck watching, recording and 

photographing what is seen. 

Some guests soon become 

regular watchers, putting in almost as much time as 

we do, but many more join us for shorter periods and 

suddenly sea days become a chance to engage with the 

amazing creatures we share our planet with. 

People are often surprised at just how much wildlife 

we see, but weather and sea permitting, we expect to 

spot something every day we are at sea, wherever we 

are. Some areas are, of course, better than others, but 

the main factor is how much 

time you are prepared to spend 

watching, and the beauty of 

the Viking fleet is that there 

are so many places to watch in 

comfort. 

The deck forward of the 

Explorers’ Lounge is the best 

location, but the lounge itself 

is very comfortable and the 

floor-to-ceiling, self-cleaning 

windows provide superb 

views. But many guests, once 

inspired to watch, enjoy their 

wildlife from The Restaurant, 

World Café or the loungers 

and sofas along the edge of the 

Wintergarden and Pool Deck. 

Even the sofas on Deck 2 

have their moments. 

White-caps, waves and 

swell seriously reduce the 

chances of spotting wildlife so 

my top tip is to concentrate 

your efforts on days when the 

sea is calm. Also learn where 

the best places to watch are: 

coastal and continental shelf 

areas are generally better than 

deep ocean, but there are 

feeding areas for some species 

hundreds of miles offshore. 

Sometimes underwater ridges 

and seamounts, canyons and 

ocean currents can result 

in concentrations of food and, therefore, predatory 

animals far from land. Even in relatively quiet areas 

of the ocean, there is still life. Much of it might be 

PHOTOS: © KRIS SIMPSON/ROBIN PETCH 


032-035_EM18_Wildlife.indd 32 05/11/2019 10:29

TRAVEL 



Above: The 

loggerhead turtle 

lives in oceans all 

around the world 

below the surface, but occasionally some of it surfaces. 

Whales, dolphins, sharks, seabirds, turtles or large fish 

might be passing through on migration or searching 

over vast areas for food, so it’s always worth keeping 

your eyes open. 

So where are the best places to see whales and 

dolphins? And which cruise should you book? The 

answers depends on which species you would most 

like to see and what time of the year you wish to travel. 

In summer and early autumn, North Atlantic 

itineraries are good for spotting minke, humpback, 

sei, fin and even blue whales, as well as many dolphin 

species. Seabirds such as, gannets, fulmars, kittiwakes 

and puffins are also favourites in this part of the 

world. Even in UK waters, the Sea Watch Foundation 

(seawatchfoundation.org.uk) has records of 29 species 

of whales, dolphins and 

porpoises! 

Striped and common 

dolphins inhabit warmer 

waters such as the Bay 

of Biscay, which usually 

features on voyages 

heading from Northern 

Europe to the Mediterranean, Azores and Canaries, all 

of which provide great opportunities to see many of the 

above species too. The Azores is also good for sperm 

whales and easier to get to than the famous whale hub 

of Kaikoura, a town on New Zealand’s South Island. 

Meanwhile, the eastern seaboard of the US and 

Canada, from Massachusetts northwards, draws 

humpback, sei, fin and occassionally blue whales, as 

well as the critically endangered northern right whale. 

Hotspots include Stellwagen Bank off Boston, the 

Bay of Fundy and St. Lawrence Seaway, which has the 

world’s only non-Arctic population of beluga whales. 

In the winter months, the Caribbean and Central 

American waters provide feeding grounds for migrating 

humpback whales, but year-round, Atlantic and 

pantropical spotted dolphins, bottlenose dolphins, 

pilot whales and sperm whales can be seen. Seabirds 

such as brown and masked boobies are amazing sights 

here too, often chasing the abundant flying fish. 

Around South America, Peninsular Valdez in 

If it’s orca you want to see, the 

Inside Passage between the 

mainland and Vancouver Island is 

the best place in the world to go 

Argentina is renowned for sightings of orca taking seals 

from the beaches in March and April, and October and 

November, and is also home to other species including 

southern right whales from June to December. The 

Beagle Channel, Strait of Magellan and Chilean Fjords 

are full of whales, including minke, humpback, sei, 

fin and blue whales, as well as Chilean, Commerson’s, 

Peale’s and dusky dolphins. From here up to Peru and 

Ecuador, the cold Humboldt Current ensures marine 

life is rife, with various species of albatross and giant 

petrels among the many seabird encounters. 

Hawaii is home to breeding humpbacks in the 

winter, but in the summer and autumn they head 

to Alaska to feed. Grey whales join them here after 

migrating along the western seaboard of the USA 

and Canada from the lagoons and coastal waters of 

Baja California where 

they breed. If it’s orca you 

want to see, the Inside 

Passage between Vancouver 

Island and the mainland is 

undoubtedly the best place 

to go, although Iceland, 

Norway, Alaska and the 

Antarctic are other popular places to spot the species. 

Further afield, Australia, New Zealand and South 

Africa are brilliant for marine life encounters, especially 

humpback and southern right whales in the southern 

summer and early autumn, and various dolphin species 

year round. New Zealand is famous for the sperm 

whales of Kaikoura and is the the only place to see 

Hector’s and critically endangered Maui’s dolphins. 

Similarly, only in Namibia and northern South 

Africa can the Haviside’s dolphin be seen. 

If you’d like to join Robin, he’ll be on board 

Viking Sun for the World Cruises from January 

2020 and 2021 (LA to London); Viking Jupiter 

for British Isles Explorer (26 July and 9 August 

2020) and Viking Homelands (23 August 2020); 

Viking Sun for Cities of Antiquities and the Holy 

Land (7 Nov 2020) and Western Mediterranean 

Explorer (21 Nov 2020). 

thewhaleanddolphinman.co.uk 



TRAVEL 


above: The Viking 

fleet has many 

spaces for wildlife 

watching; one of 

40 known flying 

fish species; a 

humpback whale 

breaches in the 

Beagle Channel; 

a wandering 

albatross spotted 

in New Zealand 

PHOTOS: © ROBIN PETCH 



Tiny beginnings using 

everyday things turn 

into massive moments... 

The Children’s Trust offers a range of 

residential brain injury rehabilitation 

services for children and young people 

with acquired brain injury (ABI). 

Our services aim to maximise each child’s 

potential and help them discover their tiny 

massive moment. 

How can you get involved? 

Make a donation – help us invest in vital 

equipment, outings and activities for 

children with brain injury. 

Discover how a clay 

snake was pivotal 

in helping Emilie 

communicate again. 

thechildrenstrust.org.uk/vikings 

Charity registration number: 288018. TCT_570. 07/19

CHARITY 

Charity 

MISSION 

We’ve selected The Children’s Trust, the UK’s leading charity for 

children with brain injury, as one of our charities of the year. 

Read more about the indispensable work they do. 

Below: Last 

year, more than 

1200 children 

and families were 

supported by The 

Children's Trust 

Every year more than 40,000 

children in the UK are left 

with a brain injury as a result 

of an illness or accident. Many 

children make a good recovery, but 

thousands have to live with ongoing, 

long-term difficulties. 

Not only do the children require 

specialist medical attention and 

rehabilitation, but the families also need 

a huge amount of support. This is where 

The Children’s Trust comes in – the 

charity delivers rehabilitation, education 

and community services to children and 

young people, as well as their families, at 

this extremely difficult time, and Viking is 

proud to offer its support. 

WHAT THE CHARITY DOES 

Last year, The Children’s Trust supported 

over 1200 children and their families, 

both at its rehabilitation centre in 

Tadworth, Surrey – the largest unit of 

its kind in the country – and through its 

Brain Injury Community Service. 

The charity supports each child by 

tailoring a rehabilitation programme 

to suit their individual needs and 

with a variety of different specialist 

therapies, including physiotherapy, 

occupational therapy, speech and 

language therapy and music therapy. 

The ultimate aim is for all children 

with a brain injury and neurodisability 

to have the opportunity to live the 

best life possible. 

FUNDRAISING EFFORTS 

The Children’s Trust needs to raise £7m 

each year to support children and families. 

THE CHILDREN’S TRUST AIMS TO: 

• Maximise each child’s potential 

• Restore lost skills if possible, 

develop alternative skills and 

provide compensatory aids 

• Facilitate new learning beyond 

the end of the child’s natural 

recovery period 

• Develop an understanding of 

the child’s needs 

• Ensure the child’s environment 

at home is modified for the way 

they will function after their 

brain injury 

• Prevent secondary problems 

from developing 

To hit its fundraising targets, 

the charity runs a wide range of events 

throughout the year. These include a 

Rhythm & Grooves Ball and Fireworks 

Night and an annual Christmas concert. 

Two other events for 2020 are the Spring 

Golf Day in May and The Children’s 

Trust Supercar Event at Goodwood Motor 

Circuit taking place in late July. 

The Children’s Trust is also always on 

the lookout for keen runners, cyclists and 

golfers to participate in sporting events, 

such as the Virgin London Marathon 

and Ride London 100, as well as general 

fundraisers and volunteers. 

Viking has carried out a number of 

fundraising activities throughout the year 

to support The Children’s Trust, including 

an office dress-down day and donating 

cruises as auction prizes, and the charity 

is delighted 

it has been 

selected to be 

one of Viking’s 

charities of 

the year. 


037__EM18_Charity.indd 37 05/11/2019 09:30

Tutankhamun’s 

treasures 

As the ground-breaking TUTANKHAMUN: Treasures of the 

Golden Pharaoh exhibition continues its world tour, the curator 

Tarek El Awady discusses how it came about 

How did you become 

involved with this 

Tutankhamun exhibition? 

I studied archaeology at Cairo 

University and got my Ph.D. from 

Charles University in the Czech 

Republic. I was first appointed as 

Inspector of Antiquities for the 

Supreme Council of Antiquities, 

at the Ministry of Antiquities in 

1994. I worked on the excavation 

of the Giza Pyramids, Saqqara and 

Bahariya Oasis as a member of the 

Egyptian Archaeological Mission, 

then I became the deputy field 

director of the excavation of the 

Valley of the Kings and the field 

director of the excavation in Abusir. 

In 2010, I became the director 

of the Egyptian Museum in Cairo 

and in 2015 I became the director 

of the Archaeological Museum 

of Alexandrina Bibliotheca. In 

early 2018 I was appointed as the 

curator of TUTANKHAMUN: 

Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh, 

working to create the exhibition 

which is touring 10 cities across 

the world for the last time before 

the king’s treasures are moved to 

the Grand Egyptian Museum. 

Can you tell us a bit about 

the discovery of the tomb? 

On 4 November 1922, the English 

Egyptologist Howard Carter 

discovered the intact tomb of 

Tutankhamun. Carter’s 

discovery proved the 


038-039_EM18_kingTut.indd 38 05/11/2019 09:32

INTERVIEW 

long-believed statement made 

by the American adventurer and 

excavator Theodore Davis that there 

was nothing left to be discovered 

in the Valley of the Kings was not 

true. It’s ironic that Carter found 

the tomb of Tutankhamun just two 

metres away from where Davis had 

stopped his excavation effort. 

Although Tutankhamun only 

spent a decade on the throne, his 

tomb was packed with more than 

5,000 artefacts that represented 

everything the king might need in 

his final resting place and for his 

journey to the afterlife. 

The tomb was equipped with 

tiny objects like simple arrows and 

bows, but also contained the king’s 

chariots, funerary beds, shrines, 

and his magnificent nest of coffins. 

Tutankhamun’s treasure was moved 

by Carter and his team from 

Luxor to the Egyptian Museum 

in Cairo, leaving only the king’s 

mummy in the outer coffin inside 

the tomb. Thanks to the first class 

conservation work of Alfred Lucas 

and the dry weather in Egypt, the 

treasures of Tutankhamun are still 

well preserved today. 

What is the legacy of 

Tutankhamun and the 

ancient Egyptians in 

the modern world? 

The 1922 discovery opened a wide 

window for archaeologists and the 

public to look closely at the lost 

world of the pharaohs. However, 

ever since Tutankhamun’s tomb 

has been excavated, Egypt has 

found out that the king and 

his treasure also offer insights 

into modern-day Egypt. In fact, 

Tutankhamun is considered to 

be Egypt’s best ambassador to the 

world, and there have always been 

cultural, political, and economical 

reasons for sending the king’s 

treasure to tour the world. 

For example, the 1967 

exhibition in France raised funds 

for saving Nubian monuments and 

helped to restore Egypt and France’s 

long relationship after the damage 

caused by the 1956 war on Egypt 

after the Suez Canal crisis. The 

king’s tour of the USA during the 

1970s also improved the countries’ 

relationship. Also, when Egypt was 

hit by a savage terrorist attack in 

1997 at Deir El Bahry in Luxor, the 

country sent a new Tutankhamun 

exhibition to tour the world 

in 2004, starting in 

Switzerland, in order to 

improve the country’s 

appeal to tourists. 

What do you think 

makes this exhibition 

so special and why? 

Egypt has only ever 

allowed a few objects 

to tour the world – this 

is until now. The new 

exhibition is the 

largest Tutankhamun 

collection to ever leave 

Egypt and commemorates 

100 years since the discovery of 

Tutankhamun’s tomb. There are 

150 magnificent artefacts associated 

with Tutankhamun on display to 

the public, 60 of which have never 

left Egypt before. These objects are 

masterpieces of ancient art, and 

the exhibition is designed to allow 

visitors to accompany the golden 

pharaoh on his magical journey to 

the afterlife. It also presents recent 

discoveries about Tutankhamun’s 

life and death, his family and his 

treasures, which were possible with 

the help of modern technology 

such as CT-scans and DNA analysis 

being utilised by researchers. 

What are your favourite 

artefacts within the 

exhibition and why? 

The guardian statue of 

Tutankhamun is my favourite 

piece that visitors can see in the 

exhibition. One can still see in 

this masterpiece of art the magic, 

the passion and the perfection of 

ancient Egypt. The look on the face 

of the guardian always makes 

me feel that everything is in 

the right order and that the 

universe still holds balance. 

For me, the trumpet of 

Tutankhamun is also special. 

Not only is the artefact the 

oldest musical instrument 

from the ancient world that 

still exists and that can still be 

played, but it is also the only tool 

that can actually connect us with 

the world of the pharaohs and 

allow us to listen and hear sounds 

from that magical time. 

I also very much like the 

wishing cup of Tutankhamun; 

it’s another breathtaking artefact. 

The hieroglyphic text on the rim 

reads: ‘May your Ka (soul) live 

thousands of years, may your eyes 

see wonderful things’. 

What are your tips for 

Viking guests visiting Egypt? 

I would advise Viking guests to 

enjoy Egypt – the sun, the food 

and the rich history of the country. 

And a Nile cruise from Aswan to 

Luxor makes everyone on board 

feel as if they are on a time machine 

ride back to Ancient Egypt. 


above: Dr. Tarek 

El Awady at 

work; a gilded 

wooden shrine 

with scenes of 

Tutankhamun; the 

Colossal Statue 

of Tutankhamun; 

a gilded wooden 

bed found in 

the tomb; an 

impressive statue 

of Tutankhamun 


038-039_EM18_kingTut.indd 39 05/11/2019 09:33

PHARAOHS and FLOWERS 

Garden designer Paul Hervey-Brookes conjures up the allure 

of Egypt, shining a spotlight on the plants of the region 

Top to bottom: 

Papyrus growing 

along the Nile 

River; Paul 

Hervey-Brookes 

To many 

Egypt is 

a land of 

hot sun 

and searing bright 

light; it is exotic and 

steeped in ancient 

history but not often 

associated with flowers. 

However, the great 

Pharaohs, including 

the enigmatic boy king, 

Tutankhamen, were 

obsessed by flowers and intertwined 

them into daily life as well as more 

spiritual rituals. The most obvious 

plants that grow along the Nile are 

the lotus and papyrus and both 

featured highly in everyday life. 

LOTUS LOVE 

Bowls shaped like a lotus bloom 

would be carried to the Nile with lit 

candles, and whilst singing prayers 

the Egyptians would float the 

little lotus boat out; if it remained 

floating and drifted away a good 

year was to follow. Egyptians would 

sing to the lotus and replicate its 

form in architectural details, and 

it came to symbolise Upper Egypt 

and the source of the Nile whilst 

the papyrus stood for Lower Egypt. 

In spiritual life, thanks to its 

habit of opening in the morning 

and closing at night, the lotus came 

to represent the idea of rebirth and 

the flower symbolised in depictions 

and hieroglyphs the deceased as 

they entered the underworld and 

also their rebirth into new life. 

The gods Re and Nefertem were 

both depicted by ancient artists as 

emerging from Lotus flowers, 

a symbol of its power. 

There are two varieties of 

lotus that thrive along the Nile: 

Nymphaea coerulea and Nymphaea 

lotus – the blue lotus. The former 

is intensely scented and ancient 

Egyptians believed its heavenly 

fragrance indicated the presence of 

a god and, as such, in tomb scenes 

the deceased is often depicted with 

its bloom held to his or her nose. 

POWERFUL PAPYRUS 

The papyrus, which grows in large 

thickets along the banks and shores 

of the Nile, was a symbol of fertility 

and life. During the Old Kingdom 

(2686 to 2181BC) it was the most 

utilised form in architectural design 

and its free stalks and flowering 

heads often made up the offerings 

the dead would take to the grave. 

Later on, during the New 

Kingdom (1570 to 1070BC), 

many non-native plants arrived in 

Egypt via gift-giving and conquest. 

Tuthmosis III had a botanical 

garden planted at the Temple 


040-041_EM18_PaulH.indd 40 05/11/2019 10:04

GARDENING 

of Amun at Karnak and, in the 

tomb paintings of the period, 

plants such as Papaver rheas and 

Centuarea depressa from the 

Judaea and Samaria regions, along 

with European Arum italica and 

Dracunculus vulgaris, are depicted. 


TUTANKHAMUN’S TOMB 

During the 18th Dynasty, it was 

fashionable to wear large thin 

blueish tin collars of faience. These 

normally took the decorative forms 

of flowers we would know today as 

cornflower, chamomile, lotus and 

citrus type fruits. Collars made in 

the same style but of fresh flowers 

were created for ceremonies and 

feasts, and are also depicted in 

tomb paintings from the period. 

More exciting, however, are the six 

complete collars that were found in 

Tutankhamun’s tomb. These would 

have been worn at his funerary 

banquet and were embalmed to 

travel with him to the next life. 

Tutankhamun offers us one of 

the most complete insights into 

flowers and their significance for 

the next life in Ancient Egypt. 

Almost all Pharaohs of the New 

Kingdom would have been 

embalmed with a floral collar 

which rested on the chest on 

the innermost of their coffins. 

Tutankhamun’s is the sole surviving 

collar we have today and it includes 

plants such as olive, Egyptian 

willow and pomegranate. Alongside 

the collar, flat garlands made of 

similar plants, including acacia, 

delphinium, carthamus and white 

willow herb, were wound over the 

fabric of the embalmed Pharaoh 

in concentric semicircles. Most 

of these have not survived but 

depictions and fragments found 

in the inner caskets point to the 

importance flowers held. 

There is also evidence that in 

rare circumstances the Pharaoh 

would have had a floral crown. 

Fragments had been found in 

the hair of Amenhotep II but 

final proof was found with 

Tutankhamun. Two crowns hung 

around the royal insignia of the 

brows of the first and second coffin. 

Statuettes of the deceased placed in 

the tomb were also decorated with 

floral garlands and, unusually, the 

jugs and casket of goods to be taken 

to the next life were also decorated 

with fresh floral garlands. 

Tutankhamun’s tomb is one of 

only three to be found containing 

pole bouquets – these were made 

from vines and the leaf stems of a 

native tree called melilot. 

FLORAL TRIBUTES 

There are still many mysteries 

surrounding the plants found in 

different tombs. The dried remains 

of Narcissus tazetta bulb were 

found placed around 

the neck of Rameses 

II but not on any 

other Pharaoh, whilst 

the leaves of Crinum 

were placed over the 

eyes, nose, mouth 

and mummification 

incisions of Sennefer, 

Mayor of Thebes; 

fascinating as the leaves are the 

most uninteresting part of the bulb. 

Later, floral garlands were made 

into the shape of the Ankh sign 

and offered to the gods. These 

signs (sometimes two or three feet 

high) were also carried to the tomb 

entrance and stood with the casket, 

which was upright whilst the last 

rites before interment were offered. 

As time passed more complicated 

wreaths of exotic flowers including 

rosa, lychnis and jasmine were used 

in these ceremonies. 

Finally, of crucial importance 

to Ancient Egyptian life was the 

role of perfume and perfume 

production. Large amounts of 

mostly empty, perfume-filled 

jars, most likely made from the 

blue lotus were found alongside 

Tutankhamun. This perfume 

remained a staple trade export 

into the Greco-Roman period. 

So next time you see the famous 

Golden Mask of Tutankhamun you 

will be able to imagine that when 

it was originally set in place, under 

that mighty golden face would have 

been thousands of 

beautiful, scented 

flowers woven 

into rich 

garlands 

to transport 

the Pharaoh 

safely to the 

next life. 


above: Flowers 

were originally 

placed under 

Tutankhamun’s 

funerary mask; 

jasmin flowers; 

blue lotus is the 

sacred flower of 

the Nile; Egyptian 

gods drawn onto 

papyrus paper 


040-041_EM18_PaulH.indd 41 05/11/2019 10:04

TUNE IN 

As one of Classic FM’s longest-serving presenters, John Brunning 

is a firm favourite with listeners around the world 

Above: A Viking 

Longship sails 

along the River 

Main; Classic FM 

presenter John 

Brunning 

How did your career in radio 

start and develop? 

Well my career in radio had rather 

dodgy beginnings because I ran a 

pirate station from the bedroom 

of my mother’s bungalow where I 

grew up in Colchester. Eventually 

we got busted by the authorities. 

I was about 15 at the time, which 

was just as well because had I been 

16, they would have prosecuted 

me. I still have the letter somewhere 

from Chris Chatterway, the then 

Secretary of State, saying how 

naughty I had been and not to 

do it again. My legitimate career 

started at Capital (Radio). I had 

a programme called The Way It Is, 

in the early 1980s. From there, 

I moved to Glasgow and then 

down to Invicta Radio in Kent and 

worked in news. I started at Classic 

FM in 1992, a couple of weeks 

before the station’s first on-air 

date in September. The controller 

heard about my love of music and 

suggested a change of direction. 

I was reluctant at first, but I have 

no regrets now because I love the 

music and it is the ideal job for me. 

Where did your passion for 

classical music stem from? 

When I was a lad, my father used 

to work for Co-op Insurance 

and I used to go with him on his 

rounds. I must have been five years 

old and we stopped at an elderly 

lady’s house. Well she seemed 

elderly, but looking back, she was 

probably about 30! She had an 

old gramophone and three 78rpm 

records. One was Bach’s Toccata 

and Fugue in D minor. I loved the 

sound of the organ, so I used to 

play it ad nauseam. My poor father! 

And that was it really. The truth 

is, I love all sorts of music, but 

classical music has always been 

very close to my heart. 

Who are you favourite 

composers and why? 

There really are too many favourites 

to list! The three B’s, obviously: 

Beethoven, Bach and Brahms, I 

love all of them. I am very fond of 

Haydn, but if I had to choose one, 

it would have to be Tchaikovsky. 

His music is so melodic and so 

beautifully put together. 

What’s your favourite piece? 

Tchaikovsky’s Symphony No. 5 

and the No. 6, the Pathetique, 

are particular favourites, but ask 

me again tomorrow and I will 


042-043_EM18_JohnBrunning.indd 42 05/11/2019 10:21

CULTURE 

PHOTOS: © ROBERT WORKMAN /ISTOCK 

probably come up with something 

completely different! I think the 6th 

is such an emotional rollercoaster. 

It has got all of life encapsulated 

within it, so I’d go for the 6th. 

Name your top three 

bucket-list destinations... 

I would love to go to New Zealand 

as I’ve been to Australia and 

loved it. I would like to go to 

India because I think it is just a 

fascinating place, and Chile and 

Argentina are places I have always 

fancied as well. I can speak a bit of 

Spanish, but I would like to spend 

more time speaking the language. 

Have you ever ventured out 

on a cruise? 

I have, because many years ago, 

I used to host music festivals on 

cruises. I have done 15 cruises now, 

introducing various artists, string 

quartets, pianists and singers. I 

always enjoyed it and I used to 

look forward to it like a holiday. I 

haven’t done a river cruise and that 

is something I would very much 

like to do because I have done three 

transatlantic crossings. The sail into 

New York is just something else, 

it really is. Stockholm is another 

really nice one and some of the 

Norwegian fjords are fantastic. The 

idea of going along the Rhine or 

the Danube is very appealing. 

What three things do you 

never travel without? 

I suppose a passport would be too 

obvious! So certainly a toothbrush. 

I don’t have much use for a 

hairbrush these days, so that clears 

a space for something else. The 

second item is a sink plug. And I 

always have to take my specs these 

days. I cannot get by without those! 

What would your playlist look 

like for a Viking ocean cruise 

around the Mediterranean? 

Let’s think about the countries. 

We could have Manuel de Falla 

for Spain and Gabriel Fauré to 

represent France – on air, I always 

call him my favourite French 

composer. Vivaldi for Italy, of 

course, and Brahms for Germany. 

I am a big fan of Brahms’ music 

and Mozart would have to be 

there, of course. With Brahms, 

I particularly love his late piano 

pieces that he wrote towards the 

end of his life. I get a sense of a 

man whose life had not been as 

easy as he would have liked. There 

is a wistfulness and a sense of regret 

in his very late piano pieces. The 

piano was his instrument, but you 

have to be feeling emotionally 

robust to listen to them, because 

they will tear you apart if you are 

not. They do me anyway. 

And what about the 

soundtrack to a Viking river 

cruise along the Danube? 

Beethoven, Schubert, Mozart and 

Haydn, all the great Viennese, 

classical and romantic composers. I 

love Haydn’s Symphony No. 100, 

which is the Military Symphony. 

Even studying it academically at 

school hasn’t spoilt it for me. And I 

love Schubert’s The Trout Quintet, 

which would seem appropriate 

being on a freshwater river. 

How do Viking and Classic FM 

complement one another? 

I think two words really: quality 

and relaxation. You understand 

what the customer, the listener, 

wants, and deliver that to them. 

Clockwise, 

from bottom 

right: traditional 

Norwegian houses 

sit on the banks 

of a majestic 

fjord; classical 

music is John’s 

passion; a chance 

encounter with 

a gramaphone 

ignited his love for 

music; Ludwig van 

Beethoven 


042-043_EM18_JohnBrunning.indd 43 05/11/2019 10:22

CHRISTMAS 

at the CASTLE 

To celebrate the publication of her new book, Lady Carnarvon 

conjures up the magic of Christmas at Highclere, her historic 

home and the setting for Downton Abbey 

How far in advance do 

you start preparations for 

Christmas at Highclere? 

We plan our events in the summer 

and start making our decorations in 

October along with the Christmas 

pudding and Christmas cake. Then 

in late November the trees and the 

decorations go up. 

Tell us more about the huge 

Christmas tree in the saloon? 

It is usually 20 feet tall and is 

cut from a local farm. On the 

appointed day all the staff help out 

as it has to be carried in by hand 

and raised using a series of ropes 

and pulleys. It takes another two 

days to decorate so it is a team 

effort from all the Highclere elves. 

How many other trees do you 

display around the estate? 

We have around another 40 trees, 

some which line the drive and 

offer a twinkling, festive entrance 

for visitors. We have others in 

the courtyard and then about 

eight inside in the Dining Room, 

Library, Music Room, Drawing 

Room, Smoking Room and hall. 

Do you have any favourite 

family recipes? 

So many! I absolutely love the 

traditional Christmas Day lunch of 

roast turkey with all the delicious 

accompaniments and a large ham 

to slice hot or cold. But I also enjoy 

using up leftovers in dishes such 

as turkey rissoles or frying slices of 

Christmas pudding gently in butter. 

After Christmas I crave something 

lighter such as fennel, blood orange 

and walnut salad. 

Can you tell us a bit more 

about your Christmas Day? 

Usually we start with a dog walk, 

then it is back to the castle for 


044-045_EM18_Highclere.indd 44 05/11/2019 17:44

CULTURE 


bottom left: 

Lady Carnarvon 

welcomes you in; 

Highclere Castle in 

the snow; estate 

staff carry the 

tree inside; Lady 

Carnarvon wraps 

presents by the 

fire; turkey is a 

highlight of lunch 

PHOTOS: © LADY CARNARVON 

a breakfast of scrambled eggs, 

smoked salmon, porridge and toast. 

Then we all head to church for the 

Christmas service before sitting 

down to a fantastic Christmas 

lunch. After lunch we open our 

presents and watch the Queen’s 

speech – much like many families 

around the country. 

And how do you celebrate 

Boxing Day and New Year? 

On Boxing Day we have a 

traditional shoot followed by a 

warming stew or pie for lunch. On 

New Year’s Eve we have a party 

with traditional Scottish reeling. 

Our guests are welcomed by a 

piper in immaculate white spats, 

swinging kilt, a bearskin of a hat 

and a warm jacket. The first reel 

is inevitably the Dashing White 

Sargent in which guests have to line 

up in groups of three. It is the most 

enormous fun and no one is left 

out, whatever their age. 

Can you describe 

a few of the 

events happening 

this year? 

Our Christmas 

events this year really 

take their inspiration 

from the themes in 

my book Christmas 

at Highclere, from 

tips on preparation 

and planning, to 

decorating and 

shopping, singing 

carols together, 

enjoying Christmas afternoon 

teas, and dining with us in the 

State Dining Room. We hope 

children will come and find Santa’s 

Grotto whilst, as a finale, Charles 

Dickens’ great, great grandson, 

Gerald Dickens, will join us to read 

excerpts from A Christmas Carol. 

Are there any Christmases that 

have stood out for you? 

I think the first one Geordie and 

I hosted. My five sisters and their 

families came to stay and it was a 

hilarious experience. The mattresses 

were 150 years old and incredibly 

lumpy, they all put their feet 

through the sheets because they 

were so ancient. The hot water 

came on at all the wrong times 

and my husband looked askance 

at the spike in electricity as all of 

us blow-dried our hair at 6pm. We 

soon worked out what we needed 

to update – the most pressing one 

being heaters for the bedrooms. 

What is your 

top Christmas 

tradition at 

Highclere? 

I have to say I love 

Christmas Eve when 

my husband reads 

the poem Twas 

the Night Before 

Christmas to the 

assembled children 

sitting around him 

on the floor, just 

like his father did 

before him. 

LADY CARNARVON’S FENNEL, 

BLOOD ORANGE AND WALNUT 

SALAD SERVES 4 

I am always looking for colourful winter salads, 

and nuts give a much-needed energy boost at 

this busy time of year. 

INGREDIENTS: 

• 2 bulbs of fennel 

• 2 blood oranges 

• 60g walnuts 

• 10ml walnut oil and a further 10ml for a dressing 

• 100g wild rocket 

METHOD: 

1. Peel and wash the whole fennel bulb. 

2. Cut straight down the middle and remove the 

heart (the hard centre near the root). Now slice as 

thinly as you can – we use a mandolin for this. 

3. Peel the blood oranges and segment and put 

the flesh segments to one side, saving any juice 

that comes your way, as this can be used later. 

4. Wash the rocket in cold water and shake so it 

is as dry as possible. 

5. Place a frying pan on a high heat and add the 

walnut oil. When hot, carefully add the walnuts 

until nicely toasted on both sides. Remove from 

the pan and allow to cool. 

6. Time to toss the salad together. Take a big bowl 

add the rocket, walnuts and fennel and dress with 

walnut oil, then gently toss together. Try not to 

handle the salad too much, season with cracked 

black pepper and sea salt and any remaining blood 

orange juice. 

7. Divide into four separate bowls and then add a 

few blood orange segments to each one. 


044-045_EM18_Highclere.indd 45 05/11/2019 10:26

Tartan scarf 

(£44.95, Barbour) 

Disk-drop earrings 

(£22, Oliver Bonas) 

Knitted jumper 

(£85.95, Barbour) 

Beaded earrings 

(£22, Oliver 

Bonas) 

Cord jumpsuit 

(£70, Monsoon) 

For women... 

Metallic accessories will add a touch 

of sparkle to classic outfits 

Seasonal 

Glitter clutch bag 

(£25, Marks and 

Spencer) 

check list 

Add tartan staples to your wardrobe this 

winter for a look that will travel well 

Sunglasses 

(£100, Folli Folli) 

Ochre midi dress 

(£229, Hobbs) 

Sheepskin parka 

and snow boots 

(from a selection 

at Celtic & Co.) 

Wool coat 

(£299, Hobbs) 

Shirt dress 

(£199, Hobbs) 

Leather boots 

(£89, Office) 

Cross body bag 

(£159, Hobbs) 

046-047_EM18_FASHION.indd 46 05/11/2019 10:46

FASHION 

Knitwear 

(from a selection 

at Celtic & Co.) 

and for men... 

Choose a tartan with a 

hint of bright colour for 

added zing 

Argyle sweater 

(£110, Hobbs) 

Merino scarf 


Spencers) 

Tartan bomber jacket 

(£65, Burton) 

Merino jumper (£39.50, 

Marks and Spencer) 

Wide leg trousers 

(£129, Hobbs) 

Cotton trousers 

(£55, White Stuff) 

Overnight bag 

(£80, Debenhams) 

Cashmere jumper 


Spencer) 

Circle earrings 

(£22, Oliver 

Bonas) 

Suede boots 

(£125, Barbour) 

Wool beret 

(£29, Hobbs) 

Shoulder bag 

(£35, Monsoon) 

Checked shirt 

(From a selection 

at Burton) 

Sheepskin gloves 

(£72, Celtic & Co.) 

A-line skirt 

(£60, Laura Ashley) 

046-047_EM18_FASHION.indd 47 05/11/2019 10:47

Wind 

power 

A visit to see the famous windmills of Kinderdijk 

proved to be the unexpected highlight of a trip to 

the Netherlands for journalist Kate Finney 

Above: The 

sun sets over 

Kinderdijk, home 

to 19 historic 

windmills 

When I woke up on 

a windy Saturday 

morning in the 

Netherlands, I had 

not anticipated that I’d be so moved 

when I found myself standing 

outside an old windmill wearing a 

pair of wooden clogs. The happy 

noises of nearby children messing 

around in rowing boats, a few 

others residents 

swimming in the 

waterway, and 

the sight of neatly 

tended gardens of 

neighbouring mills scattered across 

the serene landscape made it easy to 

drift back into the past. 

Kinderdijk consists of a network 

of 19 windmills in the low-lying 

polder – or reclaimed – lands of the 

Netherlands, and dates back to the 

early 1700s. Families of millers still 

inhabit the windmills and operate 

them regularly, but two of them are 

now museum mills. 

Roughly translated as ‘Children’s 

Dyke’, the name Kinderdijk is 

thought to originate from the 

infamous Saint Elisabeth’s flood of 

1421 which swept away the poorly 

maintained dykes protecting the 

polder, leaving thousands of people 

to drown. Once survivors dared 

to venture out of their homes to 

survey the damage, a cradle was 

Windmills and pumping stations have been 

keeping the area dry for nearly a thousand years 

seen bobbing up and down on the 

water, carrying a crying baby. A 

cat balanced on the cradle to keep 

it afloat and the baby was saved, 

hence the name of the area. 

I had thought visiting windmills 

might feel like a bit of a cliché, 

but the reality was more like 

experiencing a very real piece 

of living history. Simple white 

linen clothes were dancing on the 

washing lines and the rhythmic 

noise of the mills’ swooshing sails 

rotating on their endless cycle 

was slightly terrifying – it was a 

remarkably windy day. 

Accidents did happen – Miller 

Cees Hoek was widowed in 1916 

after his wife, Alie, was hit by one 

of the sails trying to move one of 

their 13 children out of harm’s way 

– and on a windy 

day, it is easy to 

imagine how the 

power of the wind 

could drastically 

change an entire landscape. 

The clever system of windmills 

and pumping stations has been 

keeping the area dry for nearly 

a thousand years. Designated a 

UNESCO World Heritage Site in 

1997, Kinderdijk – like some 40% 

of the Netherlands – lies below sea 

level. Not only are the windmills 

used to remove water from the 

landscape, they can also enable 



048-049_EM18_Windmills.indd 48 05/11/2019 10:50

TRAVEL 

HISTORY OF 

KINDERDIJK 

In the 13th century, Count Floris V of Holland 

presided over the foundation of District 

Water Boards, an innovative and cooperative 

organisation which saw residents working 

together to keep their lands dry. Three Water 

Boards were founded here: Alblasserwaard, 

Overwaard and Nederwaard, which were later 

merged into the Rivierenland Water Board. 

A system of ditches and watercourses was 

used to lead the water from the polder to the 

low point at the western tip of the area. That 

point is Kinderdijk. Here a set of four sluices – 

two for each Water Board – have been built to 

let the water flow out into the river at low tide. 

These sluices, or Elshoutsluizen, were the first 

technological leap in the water management 

system you can still see at work today. 

Looking back to all the centuries ago, the 

establishment of the Water Boards was an 

important step towards the modern democracy 

of the Netherlands. Local residents were united 

in their quest to control and harness the 

power of the wind and the water. The Water 

Board directorship was elected by voting: a 

political tradition that still determines how the 

Netherlands is governed to this very day. 

Over the following centuries, the system 

was improved. The water in the lower basin can 

be lifted up into the upper basin in the event of 

excess water, but it can also be redirected back 

into the polder canals in times of drought. 

Above: Thatched 

outbuildings can 

be explored in 

the grounds of 

the Blokweer 

Museum Mill 

the flow of water back to land when 

needed during times of drought. 

Walking along the waterway, we 

entered the Nederwaard Museum 

Mill just as two millers were 

heaving the creaking top section 

around so that the sails were facing 

into the wind. It was a mighty beast 

of a windmill, yet inside there were 

countless objects laid out to conjure 

up what life would have once been 

like. A cosy kitchen area, pots and 

pans, beautiful embroidered linen 

curtains, and bedsteads that you 

can actually lie in. 

Further along, at the Blokweer 

Museum Mill, we wandered around 

the vegetable garden, fed the goats 

and rabbits, marvelled at the simple 

wooden interiors, tried on the clogs 

and attempted to wash clothes 

using a mangle. Dating back to 

1630, this mill features a scoop 

wheel, which moves the water, 

and is incredibly evocative of what 

life must have been like on a daily 

basis. The romance of it all is only 

somewhat shattered by imagining 

how incredibly hard the millers 

must have worked. 

Back at the Wisboom visitor 

centre I was ready to confront the 

predictable tourist trap, but instead 

was surprised to find an interactive 

installation in the re-purposed 

pump house, encouraging people 

to see how well they would fare as 

millers. The large model featured 

the Kinderdijk windmills, as well as 

changing weather conditions and 

water levels. Not only do visitors 

need to turn their miniature mills 

depending on the wind direction, 

but the need to work as a team is 

vital for success – not at all easy! 

But it was the perfect way to 

demonstrate the skills that have 

been honed over the centuries. 

Today, all 19 of the windmills 

are still operational, and many 

are still handed down from one 

generation to the next. Yet for a 

UNESCO World Heritage Site, it 

wasn’t at all touristy. While there 

were lots of visitors wandering 

around, it was easy to see beyond 

them and soak in the peace of 

the place. And the clogs were 

surprisingly comfortable. 

An eight-day Rhine Getaway 

trip from Basel to Amsterdam 

starts from £1,845pp. 



048-049_EM18_Windmills.indd 49 05/11/2019 10:50

Help Musicians, who are we? 

Help Musicians is an independent charity with an 

extraordinary history. 

For nearly 100 years, we have provided a broad 

spectrum of help, support and opportunities to 

empower musicians at any stage of their career, 

from times of great need to times of opportunity. 

We want a world where musicians thrive and work 

tirelessly to provide creative development and 

preventative support to musicians of all genres 

and walks of life in an ever-changing musical 

landscape. Help Musicians is there for musicians 

starting out through to retirement, providing a 

lifetime of support when it is needed most. 

How can we help? 

Through extensive research, we know that the 

nature of a musician’s life can be challenging, with 

many complex difficulties that can leave them 

vulnerable and contribute to a precarious state 

of wellbeing, physically, financially, creatively and 

emotionally. 

Help Musicians is uniquely placed to help music 

creators and those within the industry meet these 

challenges head on with individually tailored help 

and a diverse, integrated programme of support. 

We offer crucial help to sustain careers and 

provides catalytic funding at times of great need, 

as well as support to avoid injury, minimise mental 

health challenges, support hearing health and 

more; helping musicians thrive, not just survive. 

Why do we need your help? 

Our insights show that the life of a musician can 

be precarious with many unique challenges that 

can impact emotional, financial and physical 

wellbeing. 

In 2018, the demand for our support increased 

by 67% and this trend is set to continue. In order 

for us to continue to meet the rising need among 

musicians, your help has never been more 

important to us. 

Help Musicians is delighted to have had the 

support of Viking, who generously hosted us 

and donated an incredible cruise as a raffle prize 

at Vikings’s recent concert at Cadogan Hall. We 

thank Viking for their further support towards our 

upcoming flagship Festival of St Cecilia, taking 

place at Westminster Abbey on 20 November, about 

which you can find out more and book your free 

tickets at helpmusicians.org.uk/festival2019. 

To find out more about our work and how you can help, 

please visit helpmusicians.org.uk, or get in touch on 

020 7239 9100 or at info@helpmusicians.org.uk. 

Registered Charity No.228089 

Viking x Help Musicians Charity Mission.indd 1 09/10/2019 15:37:58

The National Symphony 

Orchestra in action 

NEWS 

Debbie Wiseman takes 

to the rostrum 

HIGH NOTES 

Celebrating an evening of classical 

music and fundraising with the 

National Symphony Orchestra 

In September, we hosted an evening of 

classical music performed by the National 

Symphony Orchestra, and presented and 

conducted by Debbie Wiseman, OBE, at 

London’s Cadogan Hall. Not only did the 

event wow Viking guests with its stirring 

symphonies, but it also helped to raise 

£2,000 for Help Musicians UK – a leading 

charity supporting musicians in need. The 

concert was filmed, too, and will be screened 

on Viking ships so all guests can enjoy the 

experience wherever they are in the world. 


Harpist Skaila Kanga 

Percussionist 

Tristan Fry on the 

timpani drums 

The team at Help Musicians UK 

Lucky Viking guests won tickets to watch 

the exclusive performance 

The orchestra’s solo 

violinist, Jack Liebeck 

Viking guests enjoy the drinks reception 

The National Symphony Orchestra 

has a reputation for excellence 

Debbie Wiseman 

conducts her own 

compositions 

Michael Whight, 

one of the 

orchestra’s 

clarinettists 

SPRING 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK 51 

051_EM18_ClassicalConcert.indd 51 05/11/2019 10:53

ON LOCATION 

with Karine 

Executive Vice President of Viking, Karine 

Hagen, talks Nordic design, from what to 

look out for on board the Viking fleet to how 

to implement it into your own home 

Nordic design is all about 

simplicity, functional 

beauty and a lack of 

clutter. When I was 

growing up, my grandmother 

would often encourage me to ‘put 

everything back where it belongs’. 

This simple rule has always stuck 

with me; when everything has 

a dedicated place, it makes any 

space feel tranquil and refined, 

whether it be my grandmother’s 

tiny kitchen or the interior design 

on our ships, and it certainly 

saves time looking for things! 

I enjoy the Nordic aesthetic 

because it offers a respite from 

the constant stimulation of the 

modern world. It seems that we 

are always surrounded by noise, 

colour and distractions, and it 

is very easy to start acquiring 

possessions based on what’s 

trending; however, Norwegians on 

the whole are big proponents of 

taking care of what they have. We 

pass things down from generation 

to generation – from traditional 

sweaters, to our national 

costumes, to family furniture. 

I particularly enjoy contrasting 

old bondemøbler (Norwegian farm 

furniture painted with beautiful 

patterns) with more modern 

furnishings. This helps keeps 

Nordic heritage alive without 

becoming overwhelmed by it. 

Among my most prized 

possessions is the patterned 

Figgjo Flint crockery I inherited 

from my grandmother, which 

later inspired the dishware used 

in Mamsen’s, her namesake café 

serving Norwegian specialities on 

board our fleet of ocean ships. 

In my closet, you’ll find more 

Nordic pieces: my beloved Dale of 

Norway sweaters which I love for 

their classic patterns, longevity 

(they never stretch out or pill) and 

thoughtful design (the fantastic 

two way zipper and slits in the 

side to make room for hips); as 

well as my grandmother’s brooch, 

a timeless and elegant piece 

that is by far my most worn and 

treasured piece of jewellery. 

Whether it’s in your living room 

or closet or your dining room 

table, Nordic design can help to 

bring a sense of calmness and 

serenity to your environment. 

If you’d like to incorporate 

some of this ethos into your life, I 

encourage you to create systems 

to ensure that every item in your 

home has its place. Identify the 

things you truly love and draw 

focus to them by getting rid of 

any unnecessary clutter. 

Opposite, 

clockwise from 

top right: Gravlax 

smørbrød on a 

Mamsen’s dish; 

a table setting in 

Mamsen’s; a selfportrait 

by Edvard 

Munch on Viking 

Sun; a Weidemann 

painting on board 

Viking Sky Below: 

A cosy fireplace 

on board our fleet 

of ocean ships 


052-053_EM18_KARINE.indd 52 05/11/2019 11:11

COLUMN 

NORSE HERITAGE 

While there are many beautiful spaces on board our ships, I 

am particularly fond of our Wintergarden on our Ocean ships 

where those who come here to relax or enjoy afternoon tea 

are surrounded by ironworks inspired by the gates of Oslo’s 

iconic Vigeland Sculpture Park. These are showcased Port and 

Starboard side and depict key Viking destinations from around 

the globe. The Wintergarden itself features a beautiful wooden 

canopy which represents Yggdrasil, the mythical Norse tree of 

life. Look closely and you’ll also notice two iron ravens – figures 

that also come from Norse mythology. Known as Huginn and 

Muginn, they are said to have flown around the world gathering 

intel for the Norse god Odin. The mythical pair is also depicted 

on an iron gate sitting on Odin’s shoulders and whispering the 

world’s secrets to him. 

We are proud of our heritage, and we love sharing Nordic 

traditions and folklore with our guests. 

NORWEGIAN ART ON BOARD 

On board our ships we have 

a comprehensive collection 

of Norwegian art spanning 

the spectrum from national 

romanticists to up-and-coming 

artists. Of special note are 

the works by Ørnulf Opdahl, 

a contemporary artist who 

focuses on the stark landscapes 

of northern Norway; Kåre 

Tveter, who painted moody 

scenes of Svalbard and is 

particularly important to me 

because he did a lot of his 

work on the farm where my father 

grew up; Jakob Weidemann, a 

Modernist whose colourful pieces 

I find to be especially evocative; 

Hans Dahl, a national romanticist 

who painted bucolic scenes of 

country life; and of course, Edvard 

Munch, Norway’s most famous 

Expressionist. Those staying in 

our Owner’s Suites can enjoy 

original works by Tveter and 

Weidemann in the comfort 

of their rooms. 

MAMSEN’S DINNERWARE 

Mamsen’s, which is named after my beloved 

grandmother, is a deli where guests can enjoy 

delicious Norwegian treats throughout the 

day and evening. Many of the recipes used 

come straight from Mamsen’s kitchen, and 

the dishware also has a special story behind 

it. After my grandmother passed away, I was 

packing up her flat, when I came across the 

dishes that we’d used countless times before. I 

turned them over and noticed that the name of 

the pattern was ‘Tor Viking’. Viking’s Chairman, 

my father, is named Tor, so it seemed like a 

sign from above that we were meant to use 

these dishes on board our ships! 

Figgjo Flint resurrected the cherished 

pattern exclusively for Viking and called it 

Tor Viking II; we surprised my father with the 

dishware when the café first launched. Seeing 

this pattern brings back many wonderful 

memories of meals with Mamsen for both my 

father and I, and it brings us great joy to share 

it with our guests. 


052-053_EM18_KARINE.indd 53 05/11/2019 11:11

54 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | SUMMER 2019 

054-055_EM18_PostcardNorway.indd 54 05/11/2019 10:57

TRAVEL 

POSTCARD 

from 

NORWAY 

Photo agency producer Catherine Collins shares 

her favourite destination and shore excursions from 

her recent cruise to Norway 

PHOTOS: © CATHERINE COLLINS 

Earlier this year I had the best two weeks of 

my entire life. I was sailing on board Viking 

Sea on an Into the Midnight Sun voyage. 

Starting in Bergen with its exquisite wooden 

Hanseatic warehouses, we sailed up through the west 

coast archipelago of Norway (the Lofoten Islands) into 

the Arctic Circle, across to Shetland and Orkney, on 

to Edinburgh, and down the east coast of the United 

Kingdom to conclude the journey in London. 

Having never cruised before, I was utterly enchanted 

by the beauty of the ship as well as the thoughtfulness 

of those behind its design. I was also mesmerised by 

everything I saw from its decks – each destination 

was more spectacular than the last. However, if I 

had to pick one place as my favourite it would be 

Honningsvåg, a tiny Norwegian fishing port in the far 

north. This is down to the sheer thrills and excitement 

of the King Crab Safari excursion in the morning and 

the afternoon trip to North Cape. 

We sailed into Honningsvåg in the Barents Sea early 

in the morning of the 24 July. At 71˚ north, some 200 

miles inside the Arctic Circle, the sun was already well 

above the horizon when I took my first shots at around 

3am, but the day was a dull battleship grey with only a 

slight shimmer of pink compared with the firey glow of 

earlier skies. We had time to hug Bamse, the heroic dog 

who became the mascot of the Free Norwegian Forces 

during the Second World War, before getting kitted 

out in flotation suits for the King Crab Safari RIB ride. 

In true James Bond style, we sped across the 

Sarnesfjorden at high speed to the crab nets to 

collect our lunch. They are not called king crabs for 

nothing – they are ENORMOUS, weighing between 

6 and 10 kilos each, and it took two men to lift the 

net into our RIB. We landed ashore in a small fishing 

settlement full of wild flowers where we were taught 

how to hold the crabs safely before watching them 

being prepared for lunch. The next step was to see the 

crabs expertly cooked in boiling water over an open fire 

in a traditional Sami tent. We could then eat this Arctic 

Circle bounty, and the flavour was sublime. So much 

so that the silence of contentment was the only 

sound to be heard above the crackling fire. 

The trip back to the ship was thrilling – in and out 

of bays with sleep green slopes rising from the metallic 

sea, all at breakneck speed. I loved every second. 

The coach trip to North Cape in the afternoon 

was by comparison more sedate, but incredible 

nonetheless. As we climbed through the Arctic 

tundra dotted with reindeer to reach the plateau, 

which sits 1,000 feet above sea level, where the 

Norwegian and Barents seas meet, the fog was 

swirling all around us. It was quiet and eerie. 

Then, like magic, it cleared and we could see 

what has enticed explorers for generations. 

These shore excursions are typical of Viking’s 

attention to detail – enriching and enthralling, 

I would do them again in a heartbeat. 

A 15-day Into the Midnight Sun journey, 

from Bergen to London, starts at 

£5,290pp in 2021. 


Clockwise, 

from above: 

Catherine Collins; 

a traditional 

Sami tent; typical 

wooden buildings 

housing shops 

line the cobbled 

streets; the view 

from Viking Sea 


054-055_EM18_PostcardNorway.indd 55 05/11/2019 10:57

PHOTOS: © ALAMY/ISTOCK 


056-063_EM18_KarenBoothRussia.indd 56 05/11/2019 11:08

TRAVEL 

Russian Discovery 

We join food writer Karen Burns-Booth as she 

journeys along the waterways of Russia on a river 

cruise from Moscow to St. Petersburg 

Russia is a country that 

has constantly fascinated 

me. I remember reading 

Russian fairy tales with 

equal measures of joy and fear as 

a child, and now many years on, I 

am visiting on Viking’s Waterways 

of the Tsars river cruise. I hope you 

enjoy reading my travel diary as 

much as I enjoyed the voyage. 

DAY ONE: 

After an early morning flight from 

London, we arrived in Moscow and 

were whisked off to Viking Akun, 

our floating home for the next 

ten days. (Akun was the nephew 

of Viking ruler Rurik, who was 

among the signatories of the 944 

Rus-Byzantine Treaty named in the 

Russian Primary Chronicle.) My 

stateroom is large and spacious 

with a veranda, which comes in 

handy for early morning viewing 

and scenic cruising. I began by 

exploring Viking Akun, which has a 

large main restaurant with amazing 

panoramic views, two bars, a Sun 

Deck, Library and a very enticing 

shop. Later, dinner was a delight, 

with a choice of delicious dishes 

from a set menu as well as the 

daily ‘destination menu’ which 

offers regional specialities. After a 

cocktail in the bar, I headed to bed 

early ahead of tomorrow’s full-day 

excursion around Moscow. 

DAY TWO, MOSCOW: 

I was looking forward to today’s 

eight-hour Moscow Up-Close 

tour, which involved exploring the 

Russian capital by both Metro and 

foot. I had learnt about Moscow’s 

Metro while studying for my 

history of art degree and it was 

fascinating to see the decorative 

stations firsthand. Their style and 

design ranges from over-the-top 

Rococo to elegant Art Deco, and 

they are adorned with a plethora 

of statues, chandeliers (yes, really!) 

and exquisite marble tiling. We 

rode the Metro for over an hour, 

alighting at certain stations to 

marvel at the art, before travelling 

on to Revolution Square and Red 

Square. We explored this area on 

our own and, as well as admiring 

St. Basil’s Cathedral and its dizzying 

collection of gaily painted domes, 


far left: One of 

Moscow’s ornate 

Metro stations; the 

Kremlin seen from 

the river; Karen 

Burns-Booth on 

board; an elegant 

Viking eatery 



I discovered GUM, the renowned 

Moscow department store, which 

by the way, has an extensive food 

hall to rival Harrods in London. 

Our sightseeing route then took 

us to the dazzling Cathedral of 

Christ the Savior, from where we 

crossed the nearby Patriarshy Bridge 

to Bolotnaya 

Square. The day 

ended with a 

fabulous Russian 

music and dance 

performance. We 

were entertained with a selection of 

classical and folk songs, played with 

traditional instruments, and there 

was lots of humour in the mix, too. 

DAY THREE, MOSCOW: 

Having two full days to explore 

Moscow turned out to be one of 

the best things about this cruise. 

We had some free time in the 

morning, so my friend and I took 

the Russian equivalent of an Uber 

(it’s called Yandex. Taxi in Russia, but 

can be accessed via the Uber app) 

into the city centre. We returned 

to GUM so we could browse the 

store in more depth, and were 

treated to caviar and vodka tastings 

as we manoeuvred among towers 

of exotic Russian chocolate, local 

cheeses and tea, and freshly baked 

bread and cakes. We stopped for 

lunch at Grand Café Zhivago, which 

is situated inside Hotel National, an 

elegant, although slightly faded, 

old-style hotel. Before dining we 

were treated to Samovar service 

– small cups of Russian tea were 

served with plates of sweet and 

savoury pasties. This was followed 

by a mouth-watering plate of 

Crucian fried carp served in a dill 

sauce with slivers of crispy fried 

potatoes. A postprandial trip to the 

Cosmonaut Museum then enabled 

us to trace the history of Russia’s 

space exploration, spanning from 

the Sputnik era of the late 1950s 

to today’s space programme. 

As we passed forest-lined shores, the exciting 

realisation set in that I was about to embark 

on the next step of my Russian adventure 

DAY FOUR, THE MOSCOW CANAL: 

Today I found myself in the middle 

of the Kremlin. The ancient fortress 

dates back to the 12th century 

and within its walls are stunning 

cathedrals, ornate palaces and 

museums. After our included 

excursion, I took an optional tour 

around the Kremlin Armory, which 

houses a multitude of priceless 

relics, including a collection of 

Fabergé eggs once belonging to 

tsars and tsarinas. The costume and 

carriage exhibition was wonderful, 

too, as was the huge collection 

of silverware. We were back on 

board Viking Akun in time for lunch 

and, afterwards, we set sail along 

the Moscow Canal, a man-made 

waterway that links the Moskva 

to the mighty Volga. As we passed 

forest-lined shores where small 

villages clung to the river banks, the 

exciting realisation set in that I was 

about to embark on the next step 

of my Russian adventure. 

DAY FIVE, UGLICH: 

It was in Uglich that I had one of 

the most immersive experiences 

of the cruise. After a walking tour 

around the town and its numerous 

churches, we visited a Russian home 

for tea, cakes and some homemade 

hooch. After I had drank at least 

two shots, our hostess, Valeriya, 

proclaimed, via the translator, 

‘please help yourself to more 

moonshine’ – a request I will be 

dining out on for years to come! 

This home visit was very humbling. 

Valeriya had baked cakes and 

biscuits, and offered us salad freshly 

picked from her garden, as well as 

homemade gherkins and bread. 

While we sipped tea, decanted 

from a highly decorative enamel 

samovar, she told us about her life. 

After graduating from university, 

she was ‘sent away’ thousands of 

miles from her home, where she 

worked until her recent retirement. 

She showed us around her small 

garden where she grows most of 

her own vegetables, but sadly, we 

didn’t get to see the still where 

the moonshine was made! 

DAY SIX, YAROSLAVL: 

Today’s port of call was Yaroslavl, 

one of Russia’s Golden Ring cities. 

Our up-close 

excursion in the 

morning took us 

to Assumption 

Cathedral – the 

most beautifully 

decorated church of the voyage so 

far. The interior walls and ceilings 

were covered in exquisite murals, 

frescoes and icons, which seemed 

at odds with the very rustic looking 

wooden pews. After our tour we 

enjoyed some free time in the local 

market and managed to grab a 

This page, top 

to bottom: Inside 

GUM Department 

Store; Assumption 

Cathedral in the 

Golden Ring city 

of Yaroslavl 




TRAVEL 

coffee in a local coffee shop, even 

with our lack of Russian language 

and their lack of English! 

DAY SEVEN, KUZINO: 

After an interesting tour around 

the Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery 

and another superb lunch on board 

Viking Akun, we set sail, passing 

through seven locks and alongside 

dense forests, charming churches 

and small waterside villages with 

pretty wooden houses. As a prelude 

to dinner, we all met in the bar 

and enjoyed watching the sun go 

down on the beautiful stretch of 

waterway with a cocktail in hand. 

DAY EIGHT, LAKE ONEGA 

AND KIZHI: 

Today’s Kizhi Island Walking Tour 

was one of my favourite excursions 

of the entire cruise. All the houses, 

as well as the Transfiguration 

Church (which dominates the 

island), were built using wood from 

the Karelian Forests. We docked on 

Kizhi, which is on the northern side 

of Lake Onega, and were able to 

explore most of the island, which 

is an open-air UNESCO World 

Heritage Site. There’s a collection 

of historical Russian buildings 

that have all been painstakingly 

reconstructed and relocated here. 

This means you can experience 

barns, mills, a farmhouse and 

traditional banya (a Russian sauna) 

and the stunning fairy-tale church, 

with its five concentric rings of 

onion domes, as Russians would 

have done in years gone by. 

DAY NINE, THE SVIR RIVER 

AND MANDROGY: 

The Svir River or the ‘Blue Route’ 

connects Europe’s two largest 

freshwater lakes. Home to salmon 

and trout, the waterway is lined 

with numerous fishing huts. I even 

spotted an eagle swoop down and 

catch a fish early one morning – a 

once-in-a-lifetime experience that 

I’ll never forget. Mandrogy was 

once a thriving fishing village, but it 

was destroyed during World War II. 

However, it was reconstructed as an 

open-air museum in the 1990s and 

is now a centre devoted to keeping 

Russian traditions and art alive. I 

took part in an optional Matryoshka 

Painting workshop, where I learnt 

to paint the iconic nesting dolls 

that Russia is so famous for. We 

created our own set of three, using 

watercolour and metallic paints, all 

while listening to our local guide’s 

stories about the area’s traditions 

and history. It’s also here that I 

purchased most of my souvenirs 

as the local craft shops offer only 

Russian-made goods. 

DAY TEN, ST. PETERSBURG: 

We arrived in St. Petersburg in the 

morning. Sadly, it was my last day 

in Russia, although the Waterways 

of the Tsars cruise continues with a 

further three days in this beautiful 

and historic city, offering guests 

plenty of time to explore. Before my 

return flight home, I was able to 

visit the Imperial Porcelain Factory, 

where you can take a tour of the 

factory floor and museum as well as 

purchase some of the quintessential 

Russian-style imperial porcelain 

produced here – it really is exquisite. 

After a transfer to the airport, my 

magical and enchanting Viking river 

cruise was over, but what memories 

I have of this amazing journey – a 

truly remarkable and fascinating 

voyage through a vast and 

diverse country. 

A 13-day Waterways of the 

Tsars journey in Russia, from 

Moscow to St. Petersburg, 

starts at £3,045pp in 2020. 


above: Have a 

go at painting 

matryoshka; inside 

Kirillo-Belozersky 

Monastery; the 

pine-tree lined 

shores of Onega 

Lake; St Basil’s 

Cathedral is one 

of the must-see 

sites in Moscow 



Russian Recipes 

Food writer and chef Karen Burns-Booth serves up 

a delicious selection of winter recipes 

HERRINGS UNDER A FUR 

COAT (SHUBA) 

SERVES 6 TO 8 

This amusingly named recipe is 

for a traditional Russian dish that 

comprises pickled herring covered 

in a layered salad of potatoes, 

beetroot, carrots and onions, with 

a mayonnaise and sour cream 

dressing. Boiled eggs and dill pickles 

can also be added and the dish 

is always found on dinner tables 

throughout Russia at festive times, 

such as New Year and Christmas. I 

have taken a few liberties with my 

recipe, so the herring actually has 

its fur coat on the side, but you can, 

of course, cover your herring with 

the beetroot salad if you wish. 

INGREDIENTS: 

• 6 pickled herring fillets, in oil and 

vinegar (chopped or halved) 

• 3 large potatoes, peeled, diced 

into small cubes and boiled 

until just soft 

• 2 large carrots, peeled, diced 

into small cubes, and boiled 

until just soft 

• 3 large cooked beetroots, diced 

into small cubes (NOT pickled 

beetroot) 

• 1 large red onion, peeled and 

very finely chopped 

• 1/2 teaspoon white pepper 

• 200ml mayonnaise 

• 100ml sour cream, plus extra 

for garnish 

• 4 hard-boiled eggs, cut into 

quarters 

• Fresh dill, to garnish 

• Dill pickles, to garnish 

METHOD: 

1. Make sure the potatoes, carrots, 

beetroot and onion are all cut into 

the same size cubes. (Or you can 

grate them, but this is a messier 

and more time consuming process) 

2. Mix the cooked potatoes, carrots, 

beetroot and onion together and 

then add the mayonnaise and sour 

cream. Season to taste with the 

white pepper, and mix well making 

sure you do not break or mash the 

vegetables. 

3. Arrange the herring fillets on 

a serving platter and spoon the 

beetroot mixture over, and just to 

the side, of the herrings. Garnish 

with the boiled eggs, fresh dill 

and dill pickles. 

4. For a more traditional serving 

idea, dice the herrings and spoon 

them into a serving bowl, then 

add the vegetables in this order: 

potatoes, carrots, onion, diced 

boiled-eggs and then the beetroot 

which has been mixed with the 

mayonnaise and sour cream. Finish 

by garnishing with fresh dill and 

extra boiled eggs, and serve with 

sour cream and dill pickles on the 

side of the dish. 



RECIPES 

RYE BREAD MAKES 1 LOAF 

Rye is a very popular ingredient 

in Russia and rye bread is a staple 

of the Russian diet. This recipe is 

for a simple light rye bread that is 

the perfect accompaniment to the 

Kislye Shchi cabbage soup (page 

63), as well as being a lovely bread 

for sandwiches. The caraway 

seeds are optional, but I love 

the extra warmth they add. 

INGREDIENTS: 

• 250g light rye flour 

• 150g strong white bread flour, 

plus extra for dusting 

• 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast 

• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt 

• 250ml tepid water mixed with 1 

tablespoon honey 

• 1 teaspoon caraway seeds 

(optional) 

METHOD: 

1. Tip both flours into a mixing 

bowl with the yeast, salt and 

caraway seeds, if using. Add the 

water and honey, and mix to 

form a dough. Add more water if 

necessary as rye flour is quite dry 

and can absorb a lot of liquid. 

2. Tip the dough onto a floured 

board and knead for at least 10 

minutes until the dough is smooth 

and elastic. Place the dough in an 

oiled bowl, cover, and leave to rise 

in a warm place for 1 to 2 hours 

until well risen. 

3. Tip the dough back onto the 

floured board and ‘knock it back’ 

before shaping into an oval loaf, 

and placing into a floured banneton 

proving basket. Cover and allow to 

rise in a warm place again for about 

1 hour, until its doubled in size. 

4. Pre-heat oven to 220C/200C 

Fan/Gas 7. Uncover the loaf and 

slash the top in several places. Bake 

for 30 minutes until browned and 

hollow sounding when tapped 

underneath. Allow to cool and rest 

on a wire rack for about 15 to 20 

minutes before slicing. 

NEW YEAR’S EVE 

OLIVIER SALAD 

SERVES 6 TO 8 

This must be Russia’s best-loved 

salad. It’s always served on New 

Year’s Eve and at other special 

celebrations, parties and family 

gatherings. Sometimes called olivie 

salad, it’s named after its inventor, 

Lucian Olivier, who was a Belgian 

chef at The Hermitage (one of 

the most famous restaurants in 

Moscow) during the 1860s. The 

ingredients most commonly used 

are potatoes, carrots, peas, onion, 

hard-boiled eggs, dill gherkins and 

either diced cooked chicken or 

smoked garlic sausage. 

INGREDIENTS: 

• 900g waxy potatoes 

• 1 large carrot 

• 125g frozen peas, defrosted and 

cooked 

• 1 large onion, peeled and finely 

diced 

• 450g diced smoked garlic sausage 

• 3 hard-boiled eggs, finely diced 

• 3 large dill gherkins, finely diced 

• Fresh dill, finely chopped 

• 3 bay leaves 

• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 

• 250ml mayonnaise 

• Salt and white pepper, to taste 

METHOD: 

1. Place the potatoes and carrot 

in a large saucepan with the bay 

leaves and peppercorns and fill with 

water to just cover the vegetables. 

Bring to the boil and then simmer 

until the vegetables are soft but are 

not falling apart. Drain, discard the 

bay leaves and peppercorns, and 

allow to cool before dicing them 

into small cubes of the same size. 

2. Place the cubed potatoes and 

carrots into a mixing bowl and add 

the cooked and cooled peas, diced 

onion, diced sausage, hard-boiled 

eggs and dill gherkins. Mix well 

and add the fresh dill. 

3. Add the mayonnaise, salt and 

pepper to taste; mix well and chill 

for at least 1 hour before spooning 

the salad in to a serving bowl. 

Garnish with dill, then serve. 



SIBERIAN PELMENI WITH 

DILL AND SOUR CREAM 

SERVES 6 

I first enjoyed these on my Viking 

Waterways of the Tsars river cruise, 

and I also helped make some with 

the executive chef in a special 

cookery demonstration on board 

Viking Akun. These little dumplings 

are filled with seasoned minced 

beef and pork, and are made in 

huge quantities just as the first frost 

arrives in Siberia, with the whole 

community coming out to share 

in making them. They are set out 

on large boards to freeze in the 

cold, and are then stored in sacks 

outside, so they remain frozen 

throughout the winter. Pelmini are 

also popular among hunters, who 

take a few bags with them on their 

hunts, and then just throw them 

into a pan of boiling water over the 

wood fire to defrost and cook. 

INGREDIENTS: 

• Pelmeni Dough: 

• 250g plain flour 

• 250ml milk or water 

• 1/2 teaspoon salt 

• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 

• 2 large eggs, beaten 

• Pelmeni Filling: 

• 450g minced beef and pork, you 

can buy this as a mixture in most 

supermarkets 

• 1 large onion, peeled and finely 

diced 

• Salt and white pepper, to taste 

• To Serve: 

• 250ml sour cream 

• Fresh dill 

• Butter, optional 

METHOD: 

1. For the filling, mix the beef and 

pork together with the onion, salt 

and pepper until amalgamated. 

2. For the dough, mix the flour with 

the milk or water, salt, vegetable 

oil and the beaten eggs and knead 

on a floured board until you have a 

smooth and elastic dough. 

3. Split the dough into 3 portions. 

Take one and roll it out onto a large 

floured board. 

4. Using a 5cm (2”) scone/biscuit 

cutter (or a water glass) stamp out 

rounds of the dough. 

5. Fill each round with a teaspoon 

of the filling and fold it over into a 

half moon shape. Pinch both ends 

together to seal the opposite sides 

to make round parcels/dumplings. 

At this stage the pelmeni can be 

frozen or cooked straight away. 

6. To cook the pelmeni, bring a 

large pan of salted water to the boil 

and drop them into the water; boil 

for 15 to 20 minutes. 

7. To serve, spoon the pelmeni into 

a large serving bowl and spoon 

some sour cream over the top 

before adding fresh dill. Pelmeni 

can be served with just butter too. 



RECIPES 

KISLYE SHCHI – RUSSIAN 

SOUR CABBAGE SOUP 

SERVES 6 TO 8 

Russia is a country of many soups, 

the most well-known being borscht. 

But there are many other traditional 

soup recipes, such as kislye shchi. 

Translated as ‘sour cabbage’, it has 

sauerkraut as its main ingredient 

and is classic winter comfort food. 

It’s always eaten with rye bread and 

topped with the ubiquitous sour 

cream, as well as chopped fresh dill. 

It is easily adapted to be vegetarian, 

too, just omit the meat and add 

more mushrooms and potatoes. 

INGREDIENTS: 

• 1.8 litres chicken stock, fresh or 

made with 3 chicken stock cubes 

and boiling water 

• 3 medium potatoes, peeled and 

sliced or diced 

• 450g sauerkraut, drained 

• 125g shredded fresh cabbage 

• 1 large onion, peeled and diced 

• 1 large carrot, peeled and diced 

• 50g rehydrated dried mushrooms, 

such as porcini 

• 125g cooked chicken, bacon or 

ham, shredded or diced 

• Salt and white pepper to taste 

• Sour cream and fresh dill to serve 

and garnish 

METHOD: 

1. Bring the chicken stock to the 

boil in a large saucepan and add 

the potatoes, sauerkraut, onion 

and carrot and simmer with the lid 

on the pan until the vegetables are 

tender. This should take about 10 

to 15 minutes. 

2. Add the mushrooms, chicken, 

bacon or ham and season to taste 

with salt and pepper. Simmer for 

a further 5 minutes. Adjust the 

seasoning if necessary. 

3. Serve in soup bowls with sour 

cream and fresh dill, as well as 

slices of rye bread (see page 61 

for a simple recipe). 



Viking 

BOOK CLUB 

If you’re looking for reading recommendations for the 

year ahead, look no further. Here is a round-up of 

our readers’ best books… 

JOIN OUR 

BOOK CLUB 

www.vikingrivercruises.co.uk/why-viking/community/book-club 


064-065_EM18_BookClub.indd 64 05/11/2019 11:17

BOOK CLUB 


A GENTLEMAN 

IN MOSCOW BY 

AMOR TOWLES 

Penguin, £8.99 

Sentenced to 

house arrest in 

a luxury hotel 

in Moscow, 

Count Alexander 

Rostov is forced 

to re-examine the parameters of 

his life. The result is a wonderfully 

inventive story of salvation, and a 

charming and insightful study of 

a cast of colourful characters. 

A GOD IN 

RUINS BY KATE 

ATKINSON 


Teddy Todd, 

heroic World War 

II bomber pilot, 

must navigate 

the perils and 

progress of 

post-war life in the 20th century. 

Devastating at times, this witty 

book looks at the effect that war 

has on the lives of those who live 

through it, as well as the lives of 

the subsequent generations. 

ALL THE LIGHT 

WE CANNOT 

SEE BY 

ANTHONY 

DOERR 

Harper Collins, 

£8.99 

Interweaving 

the themes of 

science, morality 

and Nazi occupation, this Pulitzer 

Prize-winning book features a blind 

French girl, Marie-Laure, and a 

German orphan, Werner, whose 

paths collide in Nazi-occupied 

France. Deeply moving, the novel 

illuminates the power of kindness 

in the darkest of times and it is 

now being adapted for television 

by Netflix. 

YOUR FAVOURITE GENRES 

Fiction 63% 

Crime, Thriller, Mystery 62% 

Destination related travel guide 51% 

History 18% 

Romance 18% 

BECOMING BY 

MICHELLE 

OBAMA 

Penguin, £25 

This memoir by 

the US’s former 

first lady is an 

intimate account 

of her life, from 

her childhood in 

Chicago and studying at Princeton 

to her time on the campaign trail 

and years in the White House. 

THE KNIFE BY 

JO NESBO 

Penguin, £20 

Fans of rogue 

police officer 

Harry Hole will 

be holding on 

for dear life 

as he faces his 

darkest case 

yet. A chance for a new start goes 

wrong, and he ends up in his own 

worst nightmare. 

THE TATTOOIST 

OF AUSCHWITZ 

BY HEATHER 

MORRIS 

Zaffre 

Publishing, 

£8.99 

Based on the 

recollections 

of one man, 

Morris tells the story of Slovakian 

Jew Lale Sokolv as he falls in love 

with Gita, a girl he tattoos at the 

concentration camp. An enduring 

tale of love, courage and survival. 

THE WOMAN 

IN THE WHITE 

KIMONO BY 

ANA JOHNS 

Legend, £8.99 

Inspired by true 

stories, this book 

follows a woman 

on a journey 

to discover the 

true meaning 

of home, and 

another caught 

between her 

culture and 

her heart. A 

moving voyage 

to Japan, both 

geographical 

and emotional. 

YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES 

TO READ ON BOARD 

In your stateroom or balcony 86% 

In the lounge, living room or lobby area 60% 

By the main pool or infinity pool 33% 

In the Aquavit Terrace 25% 

In the Wintergarden 16% 

THE SEVEN 

SISTERS BY 

LUCINDA RILEY 

Pan Macmillan, 

£8.99 

An epic story of 

love and loss, 

this novel takes 

you from the 

shores of Lake 

Geneva across the world to Rio de 

Janeiro. The level of historical detail 

is immense and the central mystery 

is expertly crafted. It’s also the first 

book in a series of seven based on 

the Seven Sisters of the Pleiades. 

THE SALT PATH 

BY RAYNOR 

WYNN 


After finding 

themselves 

unexpectedly 

homeless, 

Raynor Wynn 

and her husband 

Moth, who is terminally ill, bravely 

decide to walk the South West 

Coast Path, from Minehead down 

to Lands End, ending in Poole. 

A journey of self-discovery and 

survival, grief and the healing 

power of nature. 

THE LOST MAN 

BY JANE 

HARPER 

Little, Brown, 

£7.99 

The Australian 

outback and its 

unrelenting sun 

is the setting for 

this atmospheric 

and shocking novel, covering the 

themes of family anguish, murder, 

grief and heartbreak. The desolate 

landscape and the isolation of the 

people living in it are at the centre 

of this gripping tale. 

This page: Take 

your pick from 

these much-loved 

reads suggested 

by Viking guests 


064-065_EM18_BookClub.indd 65 05/11/2019 11:17

066-067_EM18_CityGuideOpener.indd 66 05/11/2019 11:24

CITY GUIDES 

Our destinations and shore excursions are at the centre of every Viking 

cruise. We’re always on the lookout for new experiences, and these travel 

guides are packed with local tips to inspire your next adventure... 

Page 68 

St. Petersburg 

Russia’s imperial 

capital wows with 

its sheer grandeur, 

cultural jewels and 

fascinating history 

Page 70 

Istanbul 

Where the East 

and West collide, 

this intoxicating 

metropolis is a feast 

for all the senses 

Page 72 

Rio de Janeiro 

Samba beats, iconic 

sites and sublime 

landscapes seduce 

in this vibrant South 

American hotspot 

066-067_EM18_CityGuideOpener.indd 67 05/11/2019 11:24


Known as the ‘Venice of the North’, St. Petersburg is the 

spectacular cultural capital of Russia, offering bucketloads 

of architecture and art 

Founded by Russian Tsar 

Peter the Great in 1703, 

St. Petersburg was the 

capital of the Russian 

Empire, intended to 

showcase its growing global stature. 

Consequently, the city is filled with 

impressive palaces designed by the 

leading architects of the time. 

With a grid network of streets 

served by buses and a metro system, 

St. Petersburg is easy to navigate, 

so you won't miss the world-class 

ballets, operas and classical music 

playing in theatres across the city. 

Start with the neoclassical 

grandeur of Palace Square; site of 

300 years of history, including the 

October Revolution, as well as the 

Winter Palace. Today the former 

Tsar residence houses the second 

largest museum in the world: 

The Hermitage, which has a huge 

collection of early 20th century 

art alongside other antiques. 

Continue taking in the city's 

breath-taking grandeur with a walk 

down main street Nevsky Prospect, 

or take a quieter stroll along one 

of the many canals. Tour St. Isaac’s 

Cathedral, whose famous gold 

cupola offers the best views across 

the city, and don’t forget the iconic 

Saviour on the Spilled Blood, the 

incredible Orthodox church built 

to commemorate Tsar Alexander II. 

Don’t miss 

•The Peterhof Grand Palace is a 

beautiful house with grandiose 

gardens built for Peter the Great. 

It features more than 80 original 

marble statues and sculptures. 

•Zayachy (Hare) Island lies 

across the Neva River and thanks 

to a bloody history houses some 

interesting museums. Adjacent is 

Vasilevsky Island, offering views 

of the Winter Palace. Stay in the 

Strelka neighbourhood for dinner 

– it's where locals like to eat out. 

•The Fabergé Museum has the 

world's largest collection of Carl 

Fabergé, including nine Imperial 

Easter Eggs. Founded to study and 

preserve Russia's cultural heritage, 

it’s well worth a visit to see these 

iconic jewelled masterpieces. 

•Inside a converted bread factory 

on Ligovsky Avenue is the Etagi 

Loft Gallery, hosting contemporary 

Russian and international artists. 

Check out the views from the 

terrace, as well as pop-up shops, 

street food, concerts and films. 

•Arts Square is a leafy plaza with 

the grand Mikhailovsky Palace at its 

centre. Inside, there's the Russian 

Museum, as well as the Mussorgsky 

Theatre and the Bolshoi Zal, home 

of the St. Petersburg Philarmonia. 

Fast 

Facts 

Rivers and 

canals in 


stretch to 

300km and are 

a wonderful 

way to tour 

the city. 

The Bronze 

Horseman 

statue of Peter 

the Great sits 

on the Thunder 

Stone pedestal 

that originally 

weighed 1500 

tonnes. 

Out of nearly 

600 bridges in 

and around 

St. Petersburg, 

22 are 

drawbridges 

which attract 

a crowd when 

they raise 

to let ships 

through. 

Eating & Drinking 

Traditional Russian dishes like 

Borsch, Stroganoff, Olivier (potato 

and vegetable) salad or Solyanka 

(a thick, spicy and sour soup) are 

often hearty fares, but European 

and Asian influences are also 

common in the city's cuisine. 

PALKIN ££££ 

Dating back to 1785, Palkin is one 

of the oldest restaurants in the city. 

The traditional Russian fare served 

as this elegant eatery is exceptional 

but the caviar, oysters and crab are 

also highly recommended. 

SEVERYANIN £££ 

The perennially popular Severyanin 

feels like dining in someone’s 1930s 

home, complete with vintage 

photos, wallpaper and a piano. 

Among the varied menu's top picks 

are the earthy mushroom soup and 

the Baltic flounder in wine. 


068-069_EM18_StPetersburg.indd 68 05/11/2019 11:30

TRAVEL 

From top to 

bottom: The 

Cathedral of Our 

Savior on Spilled 

Blood is one of St. 

Petersburg's most 

iconic sites; borsch 

is a Russian soup 

made of beetroot 

PELMENYA ££ 

Choose a high or low stool in this 

restaurant found below a distinctive 

brick arch by the river, and select 

from an array of traditional Russian 

pelmeni (dumplings), ravioli or 

Japanese gyoza. 

Insider Tips 

PHOTOS: © ALAMY/ISTOCK 

ZOOM CAFÉ £££ 

The cosy and homely Zoom Café 

(with a kids’ corner) can get very 

busy so you might have to wait for 

a table. Its eclectic menu features 

Japanese Teriyaki chicken, and 

salmon and cream cheese blini. 

There's a gallery and library too. 

MANSARDA RESTAURANT ££££ 

This upscale venue offers exquisitely 

presented, modern fine dining in 

a light and airy restaurant, with 

spectacular views of St. Isaac’s gold 

dome. Try the warm chef’s salad 

with seafood or the fregola from a 

menu of the latest culinary trends. 

MIDNIGHT SUN 

In June, the sun never 

really sets below the 

horizon, so the city 

buzzes with late-night 

activity in the famous 

’White Nights' – join 

revellers at festivals, 

concerts and parties. 

COCKTAIL HOUR 

There's a rising trend for 

speakeasy-style bars in 

St. Petersburg, so check 

out hidden basement bar 

El Copitas, named one of 

the World’s 50 Best Bars, 

and sample one of its 

unusual cocktails. 

SHOW-STEALER 

Don’t miss the elaborate 

frescos and glittering 

chandeliers inside the 

Mariinsky Theatre. Grab 

a cheap balcony ticket 

to an opera or ballet to 

experience the beloved 

building at its best. 


068-069_EM18_StPetersburg.indd 69 05/11/2019 11:30

From top to 

bottom: The Blue 

Mosque gets its 

nickname from 

the blue Iznik 

tiles that adorn 

its interior; Galata 

Tower stands out 

on the city skyline 

Istanbul 

The city where East meets West is not only a melting pot 

of history, religion and food but is also brimming with 

contagious passion and warm hospitality 

Nowhere encapsulates 

Europe’s chequered 

history better than 

Istanbul. Straddling 

the busy Bosphorus 

Strait and teetering between two 

continents, the city has played host 

to the Greeks, the Romans and the 

Turks. It’s been bestowed upon by 

all three, leaving a trail of treasures 

and intrigue, from the holy domes 

of the Blue Mosque to the sordid 

secrets of Topkapi Palace. 

The walled confines of historic 

Sultanahmet, Istanbul’s old city, is 

an excellent place to start exploring, 

before throwing yourself into the 

colourful and chaotic Grand Bazaar 

and nearby Spice Market. For more 

relaxed browsing, Feriköy Organic 

Market has stalls piled high with 

local, haggle-free produce. A top 

remedy for this sensory overload 

are the Turkish Baths, especially in 

opulent-tiled 16th-century venues 

like Kilic Ali Paşa Hamami. 

While culture vultures will 

make a beeline for the infamous 

Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, it’s 

worth taking time out for the city’s 

subtler charms, too. Get a sense of 

daily life in the entertainment hubs 

surrounding the Galata Tower, and 

take a ferry over to the city's Asian 

shores to see Istanbul anew from 

Kadıköy and Moda. The waterside 

art gallery, Istanbul Modern, is a 

fantastic way to celebrate Istanbul’s 

contemporary creative scene. 

Don’t miss 

•The 1,500-year-old Basilica 

Cistern is the largest of hundreds 

of ancient cisterns that lie beneath 

the city. Its 336 columns were said 

to be built by 7,000 slaves. 

•For an instant cultural fix, 

head to the Hagia Sophia and its 

neighbour, the Blue Mosque. The 

former is now a museum but keep 

eyes peeled for unique details in 

the mosaics and graffiti spanning 

Christian and Muslim history. 

•Topkapi Palace can suffer from 

overcrowding, so pick a good 

time to visit or head to the quieter 

Harem section with its beautiful 

tiles and intriguing history. Once 

legs (and minds) get weary, the café 

offers terrific views over the strait. 

•Whether you’re looking to shop 

or not, the Grand Bazaar’s 4,000- 

odd shops and stalls are a must, and 

getting a little lost amid the narrow 

alleyways is all part of the charm. 

•The view from the top of Galata 

Tower is worth the steep climb up. 

After descending, take some time to 

stroll through the pulsating streets 

of Karaköy, Galata and Beyoğlu for 

a slice of modern Istanbul below. 

Fast 

Facts 

Istanbul is the 

only city in the 

world that is 

both Europe 

and Asia, 

geographically. 

Istanbul is one 

of the biggest 

cities in the 

world, with a 

population of 

15 million. 

Like Rome, 

Istanbul was 

founded on 

seven hills. 

The city has a 

total of 3,113 

mosques – one 

on every street 

corner. 

Eating & Drinking 

With so many influences at 

play, Istanbul’s food scene is a 

continually evolving collection of 

tastes from market stall cheap eats 

and kebabs to Michelin-starred 

fusion menus on rooftop idylls. 

MÜRVER ££££ 

Unsurprising perhaps given its 

location in hip Karaköy, Mürver’s 

menu is of the moment, featuring 

organic produce, slow-cooked 

meat and fish parcels cooked over 

wood fires. Everything is made 

all the more sensational thanks to 

panoramic views from the rooftop. 

KHORASANI ££ 

All kinds of kebabs are served up 

with filling plates of meze (starters), 

dips and lavas (unleavened bread) 

in this low-key ocakbaşı (grill 

house). Situated on a quiet cobbled 

street off bustling Divan Yolu. 


070-071_EM18_Istanbul.indd 70 05/11/2019 15:38

TRAVEL 

ASITANE £££ 

This sophisticated garden restaurant 

attached to the Kariye Hotel offers 

an authentic and delicious taste of 

Ottoman Turkey. Dishes include 

Mahmudiye; a slow-cooked chicken 

stew served with rice and lava. 

Insider Tips 

ARCADIA BLUE HOTEL £££ 

If you only manage one rooftop 

drink in Istanbul, make sure it's 

at this hotel bar. Go after dinner to 

experience the romantic twinkling 

lights of the old city and the Sea of 

Marmara at night. 


MIKLA ££££ 

An early champion of the food 

movement called New Anatolian, 

Mikla serves up dishes celebrating 

the best of Turkish ingredients 

in a distinctly European setting. 

The rooftop views are especially 

romantic as the sun starts to dip 

below the city skyline. 

STREET-SIDE BITES 

There's a hidden culinary 

delight at every turn in 

Istanbul; don’t shy away 

from hole-in-the-wall 

flatbread joints like Halil 

Lahmacun, near Kadikoy 

market, for a quick snack 

at any time of the day. 

BUILDING BRIDGES 

It’s worth lingering on 

Galata Bridge – not only 

does it span the Golden 

Horn, a harbour and inlet 

of the Bosphorus, but it 

is also where fishermen 

gather for fun creating 

quite a spectacle. 

MYSTICAL MOMENTS 

To better understand the 

Sufi community and hear 

the story of Sufism, head 

to a Whirling Dervish 

ceremony (or sema) in 

one of the city’s Sufi 

monasteries or at the 

Galata Mevlevi Museum. 


070-071_EM18_Istanbul.indd 71 05/11/2019 15:38

From top to 

bottom: Fringed 

by idyllic beaches 

and green forested 

mountains, the 

city's backdrop is 

sublime; sample a 

caiprinha, Brazil's 

national cocktail 

Rio de Janeiro 

Arguably the most iconic South American city, Brazil’s former 

capital offers a cinematic backdrop, a wealth of experiences 

and pulsating samba beats sure to get you in the party mood 

Brazil’s second largest 

city, Rio de Janeiro, 

plays host to more than 

6.5 million visitors each 

year, and with so many 

iconic features, it’s easy to see why. 

Never has the phrase ‘culture 

clash’ been more appropriate than 

when describing Rio – sights range 

from the world’s most renowned 

statue of Jesus to its annual Mardi 

Gras celebrations. Then, as well 

as housing some of Brazil’s best 

museums and galleries, Rio has a 

vibrant nightlife and, of course, 

those incredible beaches. The city 

is big, but several of the must-see 

sights are grouped relatively close 

together, so start with a cable car 

trip up to the beautiful Sugar Loaf 

Mountain and soak in the views 

overlooking the city and its bay. 

You may also spot a marmoset here. 

Back on the ground take a 

stroll along Copacabana Beach, 

pausing to people watch and 

sip a caipirinha. You'll probably 

catch the local game, foot-volley 

(volleyball using feet) here, too. 

From the beach take the tram or 

minibus up to Christ the Redeemer. 

There are 200 steps to climb or you 

could opt to take the escalator. On 

a clear day there are spectacular 

360-degree views but, beware, there 

can be big crowds to negotiate. 

Don’t miss 

•Cariocas – the name for Rio 

residents – have invented a bunch 

of things besides foot-volley. This 

includes their own samba. Visit 

the neighbourhood of Lapa to soak 

up the atmosphere of live music, 

cocktails, tapas and dancing. 

•Take a guided tour through 

The Jardim Botanico (Botanical 

Gardens), which dates from 1808 

and contains more than 6,000 

exotic and indigenous species of 

plants, birds and animals. 

•Ipanema Beach is a two-mile 

stretch of idyllic white sand 

with breath-taking vistas of the 

neighbouring mountains. Blend 

your sunbathing with shopping, 

skewer shrimps from a beach 

barbecue or a local art gallery visit. 

•With views across to the Rio 

Niteroi Bridge, the Centro district 

houses Museu do Amanhã, a 

science museum; the modern art 

hub, Museu de Arte do Rio; and 

the Ilha Fiscal, a neo-Gothic castle. 

•For some architectural heritage, 

take a stroll through the cobbled 

streets of Santa Teresa, wandering 

by grand mansions and pavement 

mosaics. There are also lots of local 

craft stores, traditional Brazilian 

restaurants and bohemian galleries. 

Fast 

Facts 

Cariocas call 

their home 

the Cidade 

Marvilhosa or 

marvellous city. 

Carnival was 

exported to 

Brazil from the 

Portuguese 

tradition of 

celebration 

at Easter, 

and dates 

back to the 

15th century. 

Superfood Açaí 

is a traditional 

ingredient 

in Brazil and 

you’ll find it in 

many popular 

desserts and 

smoothies. 

EATING & DRINKING 

Brazilians love their meat, so there's 

no shortage of restaurants offering 

juicy burgers and steaks, but you'll 

also find fruity salads and an array 

of fish dishes. Don’t be afraid to 

also try traditional pastels (filled 

pastries) from street-side stalls. 

PÉRGULA ££££ 

Pérgula is the relaxed, semi-fine 

dining offering from the Belmond 

Copacabana Palace. Watch chefs at 

work in the show kitchen while you 

dine on international or local dishes 

presented with expert flair. 

GALETO 183 ££ 

This is where to come for big 

portions of great value, no frills 

food close to the sights of Centro. 

The house speciality is chicken 

(galeto) but the tenderloin is also 

recommended, as is the Angu do 

Gomes (oxtail ragout with polenta). 


072-073_EM18_Rio.indd 72 05/11/2019 15:48

TRAVEL 

BRASEIRO DA GÁVEA £££ 

If steak is your thing, check out this 

barbecue-style restaurant close to 

the Jardim Botanico. You should 

try the traditional farofa (toasted 

breadcrumbs with cassava) and 

Portuguese potatoes. 

Insider Tips 

CAFÉ DO ALTO £££ 

Good for vegetarians and vegans, 

this traditional little café also does a 

fantastic moqueca de peixe (shrimp 

casserole) as well as chicken dishes 

and curries. There's a very good 

selection of local beers to try, too. 


RESTAURANTE APRAZÍVEL 

££££ 

Featured in the Michelin Guide, 

Aprazível provides outdoor fine 

dining with fantastic views from a 

prime city high-point. Order the 

grilled fish or traditional roasted, 

rustic dishes and feast on the fresh, 

local ingredients of Brazil. 

GUAVA GOODNESS 

Try the local guava 

ketchup on your burger 

for a uniquely delicious 

experience. Similar to the 

tomato variety but with 

an extra tropical zing, 

this fruity condiment will 

leave you wanting more. 

IN THE SADDLE 

Use the bike hire scheme 

for a cheap, fun way to 

get around, especially 

along the coast. Rio has 

435 kilometres of bike 

lanes and most urbanised 

areas are flat, despite the 

surrounding mountains. 

BRAZILIAN BEATS 

For a taste of the local 

food, art and music all 

under one roof, visit the 

Feira de São Cristóvão. 

With 600 stalls, the fair 

is enormous. Go at the 

weekend to catch live 

bands and samba groups. 


072-073_EM18_Rio.indd 73 05/11/2019 15:48

TRAVEL 

My UKRAINE 

Viking UK Senior Marketing Executive Olya Krvavych 

on why you should visit her homeland 

Born in the 80s in Lviv 

(western Ukraine), I grew 

up in a home of scientists, 

a profession that was 

very highly regarded in the Soviet 

Union at that time. It may come as 

a surprise, but Ukraine gave me the 

best childhood, with caring parents, 

a fantastic education and culture. 

Living in a communist country was 

not always bad. We had free access 

to full-time education, including 

nurseries, schools and universities. 

On the downside, some of the 

basic human rights, like freedom 

of thought, free speech, movement, 

and religion, were breached. The 

Greek-Catholic Church was forced 

underground for more than four 

decades until 1989. I was baptised 

at home with the blinds closed. 

To grow in your career you were 

expected to be a member of the 

Communist Party. 

This was probably the reason 

I grew up with a strong desire to 

become a human rights lawyer. I 

pursued this dream and went to 

study law, but changed my career 

path later in life. I am now part 

of the incredible Viking team. 

When I was 10, the Soviet 

Union collapsed and Ukraine 

finally got its independence back. 

Unfortunately, changes are not 

happening as quickly as everyone 

would like, but I still believe that 

this hard-working, talented nation 

will one day prosper. 

Ukrainians are famous for 

their contribution to the world of 

mathematics, literature, sports and 

music. You may be surprised to 

learn that the beautiful ‘Carol 

of the Bells’ was adapted from 

the famous Ukrainian carol 

‘Shchedryk’, arranged by the 

composer Mykola Leontovych. 

Ukraine is incredible to visit. 

The Dnieper is one of Europe's 

major rivers, and Viking is the only 

cruise company that will take you 

on this brilliant journey in comfort. 

During the Kiev, Black Sea & 

Bucharest voyage, you’ll visit Kiev, 

dating back to the late 9th century. 

The site was on the trade route 

that connected Scandinavia and 

the Roman Empire. One of my 

favourite cities, elegant Odessa, 

will surprise you with its stunning 

architecture, tree-lined avenues and 

beaches. On your journey you will 

enjoy delicious food, cooked from 

the most humble ingredients. 

Make sure you try borscht, our 

traditional beetroot soup. There is 

a saying that no matter how many 

times you cook it, it will never 

taste the same. 

My favourite 

food is varenyky 

(potato dumplings). 

If you ask for it 

to be served with 

fried onion and 

sour cream you will 

experience it at its 

absolute best. 

Above all, you 

will be welcomed 

by some of the 

friendliest people 

on the planet. 


below: Varenyky 

(dumplings) is 

Olya’s favourite 

dish; St. Sophia 

Cathedral in Kiev; 

Olya Krvavych 

PHOTOS: © ADOBE STOCK 


074_EM18_PostcardUkraine.indd 74 06/11/2019 13:13

Artwork by Rebecca Campbell for Opera Holland Park 

Exceptional opera in one of the 

most beautiful parks in London 

Opera Holland Park 

2020 Season 

Eugene Onegin Tchaikovsky 

Rigoletto Verdi 

The Merry Widow Lehár 

a double bill of 

Margot la Rouge Delius 

& Le Villi Puccini 

and Gilbert and Sullivan’s 

The Pirates of Penzance 

2 June–8 August 2020 

Booking opens in the new year 

Find out more at www.operahollandpark.com 

Viking Explore More 2020 Ad with Pirates.indd 1 18/10/2019 13:41:48

455 cities 

106 countries 

Countless discoveries 

Where in the world do you want to go? Do you want to explore the epic 

scenery of Scandinavia? Or discover the Caribbean, and a different island every 

day? Do you want to explore more of Europe, with its rich history and culture? 

Or discover the mystical beauty of Asia? Are you inspired to visit the vibrant 

cities and natural wonders of Australia and New Zealand? Or intrigued by the 

ancient civilisations of South America? Wherever you want to explore, Viking 

will take you there in comfort, on the most enriching journey. 

Eight-day river cruises from £1,645pp 

Eight-day ocean cruises from £1,990pp 

Call 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk 

Prices & availability are correct at the time of going to print but are subject to change. From prices are based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom on 

a Danube Waltz river cruise on selected dates in 2020 and a Deluxe Veranda stateroom on Iberian Explorer ocean cruise departing in January 2021. Single supplements apply. 

Prices valid until 31 December 2019. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us. 

VC_EM_Brand_Oct2019_A4_v2.indd 1 29/10/2019 16:28:58

Explore More Issue 18

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?