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Explore More UK - Spring 2021

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EXPLORE more<br />

See more of the world with Viking / <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> £3.95<br />

SPIRITUAL VOYAGE<br />

Natural beauty and heritage in Japan<br />

READERS’<br />

EDITION<br />

• GUEST REVIEWS<br />

• HOME COOKING<br />

• BOOK CLUB<br />

OUTDOOR<br />

LIVING<br />

Discover the design<br />

behind the onboard<br />

exterior living spaces


Embark on the ultimate adventure<br />

to the Arctic or Antarctica<br />

Discover the true Arctic on a journey to the top of the world, where polar bears reign<br />

and blue ice floats serenely on the horizon. Or explore Antarctica, the Last Continent,<br />

that is covered in ice and teeming with penguins, seals and whales.<br />

Our new expedition journeys Arctic Adventure and Antarctic <strong>Explore</strong>r reveal a<br />

breathtaking view of the planet in its purest state, and take you to pristine landscapes<br />

to see wildlife in its natural habitat.<br />

To allow you to best explore these unrivalled destinations, we have assembled a<br />

world-class expedition team to lead you on engaging shore landings, and esteemed<br />

scientific partnerships to develop enriching onboard programmes.<br />

The expedition ship perfected, Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris are home to just 378<br />

guests, and build on our legacy of exploration, with many industry firsts. Availability is<br />

limited and we are now taking bookings for our 2022 voyages. Join us on the ultimate<br />

adventure aboard a ship that offers the ultimate in comfort.<br />

Find out more about our extraordinary expedition ships and our<br />

equally extraordinary journeys to the Arctic, Antarctica and the<br />

Great Lakes. Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk


WELCOME<br />

Welcome to our <strong>Spring</strong> edition of <strong>Explore</strong> <strong>More</strong><br />

To celebrate a new season, and to mark the start of an exciting new chapter as we gear up for<br />

travelling once again, we are delighted to bring you a new issue in which you – our guests<br />

and readers – are centre stage.<br />

In this special reader edition, we have gathered reviews from guests who have travelled with<br />

us to regions all over the world. We have loved reading about your travel experiences, learning<br />

what your highlights have been, and gaining an insight into a few of the things you are most<br />

looking forward to when it comes to future trips. We have also enjoyed seeing photographs of<br />

the recipes you have cooked up, inspired by your travels, and we have loved your thoughtful<br />

book reviews. Thank you so much for all your contributions!<br />

For those of you dreaming of new adventures, we have rounded up ten of our favourite<br />

sights to see in Egypt, and we take a look at the history and geography of the Douro River as<br />

it winds its way across Spain and Portugal. For those of you at home, Paul Hervey-Brookes has<br />

plenty of gardening advice, and we find out what Opera Holland Park is planning this summer.<br />

Above all, we hope that this issue finds you well, and we very much look forward to<br />

spending time with you all on board again soon.<br />

With best wishes,<br />

Managing Director, Viking <strong>UK</strong><br />

Tweet us:<br />

@VikingCruises<br />

Like us:<br />

facebook.com/VikingCruises<strong>UK</strong><br />

Follow us:<br />

instagram.com/vikingcruises<br />

<br />

Email us:<br />

uk-marketing@vikingcruises.com<br />

Find out more<br />

about the<br />

Viking <strong>Explore</strong>r<br />

Society<br />

on our website<br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 3


OFC_EM23_FINAL.indd 1 24/03/<strong>2021</strong> 14:31<br />

60 20<br />

10<br />

40<br />

Contents<br />

IN THIS ISSUE...<br />

EXPLORE more<br />

See more of the world with Viking / <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> £3.95<br />

SPIRITUAL VOYAGE<br />

Natural beauty and heritage in Japan<br />

READERS’<br />

EDITION<br />

• GUEST REVIEWS<br />

• HOME COOKING<br />

• BOOK CLUB<br />

14 TOP 10 EGYPT Highlights from the ancient world<br />

18 A TASTE OF SALAMANCA Kay Wilkie reports back<br />

from her first visit to the ancient university city<br />

24 ON DECK Exploring the outdoor spaces on Viking ships<br />

32 ALASKAN ADVENTURE Viking guests Sheila and Ed<br />

Davies discover the majestic landscapes of Alaska and Canada<br />

70<br />

FEATURES<br />

10 VENICE TO ATHENS Travelling friends Val Hills and<br />

Ann Gregory reminisce about their Adriatic voyage<br />

20 AMAZING ASIA Lindsay and Fiona Robinson share<br />

their experience of travelling from Bangkok to Tokyo<br />

30 IN THE GARDEN Award-winning garden designer, Paul<br />

Hervey-Brookes, marks a new season with historical anecdotes<br />

36 A CULINARY JOURNEY Delectable dishes inspired<br />

by Viking’s voyages across the world<br />

13<br />

REGULARS<br />

6 VIKING NEWS The latest news and events as well as an<br />

interview with Lizze Cho, CEO of London-based charity Nova<br />

13 CITY GUIDE: ATHENS Greece’s capital is one for the<br />

bucket list, blending urban cool with ancient spectacles<br />

23 CITY GUIDE: TOKYO Futuristic skyscrapers and<br />

ancient temples, the city of Tokyo fuses old and new<br />

40 SPRING FLING Bright colours and fun accessories<br />

to bring your wardrobe to life this season<br />

OUTDOOR<br />

LIVING<br />

Discover the design<br />

behind the onboard<br />

exterior living spaces<br />

44 NIGHT AT THE OPERA We find out more about<br />

the new outdoor setting at Opera Holland Park<br />

41 INSPIRING PEOPLE The composer Debbie Wiseman<br />

discusses her wide-ranging musical career<br />

66 VIKING BOOK CLUB Readers review a selection<br />

of novels to accompany you on your next adventure<br />

Cover: Mount Fuji, in Japan, is<br />

framed by overhanging branches<br />

60 DISCOVERING THE DOURO An exploration of the<br />

river that weaves its way through Portuguese countryside<br />

70 GREAT LAKES EXPLORED The secrets of the<br />

Great Lakes that border Canada and the US<br />

54 MY ANTARCTIC Dr. Damon Stanwell-Smith reflects<br />

on his connection to this icy world<br />

56 COME FLY WITH ME Artist Susan Beal tells us about<br />

her latest project, sculpting 100 polar birds out of felt<br />

68 KARINE’S COLUMN Executive Vice President Karine<br />

Hagen shares her experiences of being back on board<br />

74 CITY GUIDE: TORONTO An in depth look at Canada’s<br />

largest city, known for its cosmopolitanism and arts<br />

4 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 5


NEWS<br />

Viking NEWS<br />

A round-up of the latest travel news and events from the world of Viking<br />

BEST IN SHOW<br />

WE WERE THRILLED TO BE NAMED RIVER CRUISE LINE OF THE YEAR IN THE 2020 FOOD AND TRAVEL<br />

MAGAZINE READER AWARDS RECENTLY. THE WINNERS WERE ANNOUNCED AT A VIRTUAL CEREMONY EARLIER<br />

THIS YEAR AND WE ARE VERY GRATEFUL TO ALL THOSE WHO VOTED FOR US, THANK YOU!<br />

“OUR READERS KNOW THEIR STUFF WHEN IT COMES TO CRUISES, SO TO CROWN VIKING THE CHAMPION<br />

IN THIS CATEGORY FOR FIVE YEARS IN A ROW IS A TRUE MARK OF EXCELLENCE,” SAID THE JUDGES.<br />

THE LONELINESS<br />

OF THE SOUL<br />

We are excited to announce<br />

that the Royal Academy will<br />

be re-opening to the public<br />

on 18th May, meaning<br />

visitors will have the chance<br />

to view the Viking-sponsored<br />

Tracey Emin/Edvard Munch:<br />

The Loneliness of the Soul<br />

exhibition in person, after it<br />

was extended until 1st August.<br />

The exhibition features<br />

more than 25 of Emin’s<br />

works including paintings,<br />

some of which are on display<br />

for the first time, as well as<br />

neons and sculptures. These<br />

works, which explore the<br />

loneliness of the soul, have<br />

been chosen by Emin to<br />

sit alongside a carefully<br />

considered selection of 18<br />

oils and watercolours drawn<br />

from MUNCH’s rich collection<br />

and archives in Oslo, Norway.<br />

NILE NEWS<br />

Viking Aton, a new state-of-the-art river vessel, will be the latest addition<br />

to Viking’s Egypt fleet. Inspired by the design of the award-winning<br />

Viking Longships, and built specifically to navigate the Nile, Viking Aton<br />

is scheduled to debut in September 2022, sailing on the popular<br />

Pharaohs & Pyramids itinerary.<br />

Hosting 82 guests in 41 staterooms, Viking Aton will join its sister ships<br />

Viking Osiris and Viking Ra in Egypt, where Viking is the first and only<br />

Western company to build, own and operate ships on the Nile.<br />

“Egypt remains a top destination for many of our guests who are<br />

inspired to discover the rich history and beauty of the region,” said<br />

Torstein Hagen, Chairman of Viking. “The addition of Viking Aton is<br />

a reflection of our continued investment in Egypt; we look forward<br />

to introducing the country’s cultural treasures to even more Viking<br />

guests in the future.”<br />

SUMMER SHOWTIME<br />

RHS Hampton Court Palace challenges and there’ll be a brand<br />

Garden Festival is set to return new RHS Flower Market.<br />

this summer, after the Royal<br />

“After months of planning<br />

Horticultural Society confirmed it and uncertainty we can’t wait<br />

will take place 5 – 11 July. We are to return to what we do best,<br />

delighted that Viking will continue putting on our famous RHS<br />

its long-standing relationship with Flower Shows for all to enjoy,”<br />

the RHS, and will be the headline said Helena Pettit, RHS Director<br />

sponsor of this year’s event. of Gardens and Shows.<br />

Visitors to the shows will<br />

“We have seen a huge increase<br />

be able to discover innovative in people taking up gardening<br />

gardens and fantastic florals and growing in the last year.<br />

alongside a shopper’s paradise Bringing the horticultural world<br />

of plants, tools, sundries and together again will be significant<br />

accessories to decorate all for the industry and we are<br />

gardens, big or small, plus continuing to plan for different<br />

plenty of activities, talks<br />

scenarios to ensure we can open<br />

and demonstrations.<br />

our gates safely and implement<br />

Show gardens will shine a light social distancing measures if<br />

on key issues and environmental still necessary.”<br />

VIKING VENUS<br />

GODMOTHER<br />

We are pleased to announce that<br />

British journalist and broadcaster Anne<br />

Diamond will be the godmother of<br />

Viking’s seventh ocean ship, Viking<br />

Venus, due to debut this spring.<br />

Anne is well known for her career in<br />

television that has spanned more than<br />

40 years, as well as her pioneering cot<br />

death campaign, following the death<br />

of her own son Sebastian.<br />

Over the last year, Anne has been a<br />

key figure on Viking’s award-winning<br />

enrichment channel, Viking.TV.<br />

“Back in March 2020, at the start<br />

of the global lockdown, I rang my<br />

good friend Karine to ask if there was<br />

anything I could do,” recalls Anne.<br />

“Never did I think it might lead to such<br />

a fascinating journey. But exhilarating<br />

journeys are what Viking is all about!”<br />

“We are delighted and honoured<br />

to have Anne serve as the godmother<br />

of Viking Venus,” said Karine Hagen,<br />

Executive Vice President of Viking.<br />

“Since the day we paused<br />

operations, Anne immediately<br />

volunteered to help our guests and<br />

crew manage through this period of<br />

uncertainty and became the face of<br />

Viking.TV on her weekly Thursday<br />

livestreams, brightening the days of<br />

nearly two million viewers. There is no<br />

one more deserving to become the<br />

godmother of Viking Venus.”<br />

6 VIKING.COM | SPRING 2O21<br />

SPRING 2O21 | VIKING.COM 7


NEWS<br />

VIKING.TV<br />

<strong>UK</strong> CRUISES RESTART<br />

HAVING BEEN THE FIRST CRUISE TO SUSPEND OPERATIONS AT THE<br />

BEGINNING OF THE PANDEMIC, VIKING WILL RESTART OPERATIONS<br />

IN THE <strong>UK</strong> IN MAY, WITH THREE SPECIAL SAILINGS ALONG THE COAST<br />

OF ENGLAND. AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY FOR <strong>UK</strong> RESIDENTS, THE<br />

NEW EIGHT-DAY ITINERARY – ENGLAND'S SCENIC SHORES – WILL BE A<br />

ROUNDTRIP FROM PORTSMOUTH. GUESTS WILL BE AMONG THE FIRST<br />

TO SAIL ON BOARD VIKING'S NEWEST OCEAN SHIP, VIKING VENUS.<br />

Earlier this year, in March, our online experience programmes focused on the British Isles. In May,<br />

channel, Viking.TV, celebrated its first birthday. With we’ll take a closer look at the Caribbean region for<br />

livestream shows every day, as well as an extensive a week, and we’ll also be appreciating all things<br />

library of on-demand programming, including short Portuguese. Each of these topics and areas will be<br />

documentaries, interviews, lectures and musical explored in more depth, with shows touching on<br />

performances, viewers can continue to explore the history, culture, cuisine and traditions, as well as a<br />

world with Viking from the comfort of home. range of inspiring guests with fascinating life stories.<br />

Coming up in April, there will be a week of<br />

Visit Viking.TV to discover a wide variety of<br />

art-related content, as well as a week of<br />

online content to inspire a sense of wanderlust.<br />

We love hearing from you, so please do send your comments and suggestions to uk-marketing@viking.com<br />

CHARITY SPOTLIGHT<br />

We are proud to be supporting the London-based charity<br />

Nova, which works with individuals, communities and<br />

organisations looking to achieve their potential and<br />

seeking a better future for themselves and the wider<br />

society. CEO, Lizzie Cho, gave us some<br />

more insight into their work:<br />

What do you hope to accomplish<br />

at Nova?<br />

Our work at Nova is based on the three<br />

pillars of social cohesion – social mobility,<br />

social inclusion and social capital. As CEO of<br />

Nova, my ambition is to create a blueprint<br />

for a way of working that supports other<br />

organisations and individuals to connect<br />

across boundaries for the collective good and creating pathways for all<br />

people, irrespective of background.<br />

Throughout the Covid pandemic we have been busy delivering laptops,<br />

food, vitamin D tablets, SIM cards and activity packs and over 1,000 hours<br />

of 1-1 support. If we can inspire as many people as possible to change<br />

the little bit of the world around them through our work, I’ll be happy!<br />

What do you love most about your job?<br />

There is a lot I love about my job so it’s hard to pick out what I most love!<br />

The grassroots work is incredibly rewarding – seeing people<br />

improving their lives through education and being supported towards<br />

employment. Our reach work is also immensely satisfying – joining<br />

up dots across business, government and civil society for wide-scale<br />

societal improvements.<br />

It’s incredible working with a fantastic range of partners from Imperial<br />

College to the Natural History Museum to The Jo Cox Foundation and<br />

Viking, whose values match our own and by working together we<br />

profoundly improve experiences and outcomes across the board.<br />

What is on the horizon for Nova this year?<br />

We have been busy launching a podcast and our Visionaries Giving<br />

Scheme, as well as expanding our work with families and our events<br />

programme – our second TEDx Ladbroke Grove main stage event<br />

is in May <strong>2021</strong>.<br />

This year we aim to reach over 2,500 people and connect with more<br />

partners. We’ll be offering nearly 6,000 hours of dedicated 1-1 support,<br />

300+ activities for children and families (greatly enhanced through<br />

our partnership with Vking), 600 adult learning sessions through our<br />

grassroots work and around 40 events via our reach work.<br />

For more information, and to donate, please visit novanew.org.uk<br />

We receive some amazing feedback,<br />

which acts as a kind of rocket fuel<br />

for us. Here are some recent quotes:<br />

“They stopped me going over the edge when<br />

I was at my lowest.”<br />

"Nova has really helped to keep our<br />

spirits up in these unprecedented times.<br />

They have been extremely helpful in<br />

my time of need.”<br />

“Thank you for providing a safe place for my<br />

family that has helped us through the lockdown.”<br />

“All services and support we receive<br />

is amazing, and a unique opportunity<br />

for our children.”<br />

“To know there is somewhere like Nova when<br />

you are going through a problem…it is literally<br />

an oasis in the desert. It’s about someone giving<br />

up their time and being concerned about your<br />

plight. It’s very hard to put into words. They go<br />

the extra mile.“<br />

“I learned so many<br />

things about<br />

myself by coming<br />

to Nova classes.<br />

I have seen the<br />

impact on my<br />

mental health<br />

and speaking<br />

ability, and<br />

communication<br />

skills."<br />

8 VIKING.COM | SPRING 2O21<br />

SPRING 2O21 | VIKING.COM 9


REVIEW<br />

Time travel<br />

Friends Val Hills and Ann Gregory reminisce about<br />

the historical highlights of their Adriatic voyage<br />

The opportunity for<br />

two ladies of a certain<br />

age to be a part of<br />

the maiden voyage<br />

of Viking Sun was too good to<br />

miss and she didn’t disappoint!<br />

We had chosen this journey as it<br />

takes us through history – from<br />

the Venetians to the Romans<br />

and ancient Greece.<br />

The ship was glorious: sleek and<br />

modern, with a hint of Scandi. Our<br />

stateroom would have to wait – we<br />

were off to explore Venice, to plan<br />

our next day, taking the waterbus<br />

shuttle arranged by Viking.<br />

A whole day in Venice to look<br />

forward to! On the way back from<br />

our recce, we noticed how elegant<br />

the ship looked from the water and<br />

we couldn’t wait to explore her.<br />

Our stateroom was near<br />

Mamsen’s and this quickly became<br />

our favourite place for breakfast<br />

– the pancakes were divine – and<br />

the adjacent <strong>Explore</strong>rs’ Lounge is<br />

a wonderfully stylish and sociable<br />

space, ideal for enjoying views.<br />

Next day, the water bus to<br />

St. Mark’s Square worked a treat,<br />

with Viking staff and their big<br />

red brollies very visible, to help<br />

us find our way. We began with<br />

the included tour, then made our<br />

way off the beaten track. Venice<br />

is always busy around St. Mark’s<br />

Square and the Rialto bridge, so<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

we would recommend the Hidden<br />

Venice on Foot tour, unless you are<br />

confident enough to go it alone.<br />

There is so much to see – little<br />

streets, almost alleys really, opening<br />

into wonderful old squares, nearly<br />

all with an ancient church; canals<br />

criss-crossed by little hump-back<br />

bridges. And all the while, the<br />

ebb and flow of<br />

Venetians living their<br />

lives around you.<br />

The colourful market<br />

near the Rialto bridge<br />

reminds you that this<br />

is a living, breathing<br />

city where people live and work; it<br />

is not Disneyland.<br />

The Lion of Venice, the<br />

ancient winged lion statue that is<br />

synonymous with the city, would<br />

be our constant companion on<br />

most of our journey. Sailing away<br />

from the Venice lagoon is simply<br />

wonderful. From the top deck, we<br />

could see the islands on both sides<br />

as Viking Sun glided slowly through<br />

the lagoon, before breaking out<br />

into the Adriatic Sea.<br />

The next morning, we woke up<br />

in Split, Croatia with a fantastic<br />

view of Diocletian’s Palace directly<br />

opposite our balcony. After<br />

breakfast, we headed out to the<br />

coach which took us to the Krka<br />

National Park. This really is a jewel<br />

of Croatia, with spectacular scenery<br />

and stunning waterfalls. Our tour<br />

guide Harry’s knowledge was<br />

extensive, and his witty delivery<br />

made the outing great fun.<br />

Krka National Park really is a jewel<br />

of Croatia, with spectacular scenery<br />

and stunning waterfalls<br />

That evening, we ate in<br />

Manfredi’s Italian restaurant and<br />

can honestly say that the steak was<br />

the best we’ve tasted - and that’s<br />

some feat! It was so good we went<br />

there twice in a week!<br />

From one “Game of Thrones”<br />

backdrop to another: it’s onwards<br />

to the pearl that is Dubrovnik,<br />

certainly a ‘must see’ of the<br />

Adriatic. Surrounded by thick,<br />

medieval walls that tower over<br />

the city and the sea, it is a sight to<br />

behold. The included tour took us<br />

high above Dubrovnik, which gave<br />

a fantastic view of the city and the<br />

Isles beyond. Our<br />

tour guide gave us<br />

a real insight into<br />

life in medieval<br />

Dubrovnik<br />

(formally Ragusa)<br />

including the<br />

origin of the word<br />

‘quarantine’. We had no idea it<br />

began here in 1377,<br />

when a mandatory<br />

offshore period of 40<br />

days was introduced to<br />

stave off the plague.<br />

Walking on the<br />

walls is a must for<br />

more intimate views of the city.<br />

The difference between the new<br />

red pantile roofs and the older ones<br />

reveals the extent of the damage<br />

and trauma suffered by this city<br />

during the war of the early 1990s.<br />

Kotor beckoned the next day as<br />

we sailed on down the Dalmatian<br />

coast into the beautiful fjord-like<br />

inlet. This small Montenegrin city<br />

is a relatively new destination.<br />

The ancient narrow streets give a<br />

sense of its past and the need for<br />

protection against pirates. It was<br />

October and the days were getting<br />

warmer as we travelled south.<br />

This page, left<br />

to right: Early<br />

morning in the<br />

Piazza San<br />

Marco, Venice;<br />

Val and Ann<br />

enjoy a drink on<br />

board Viking Sun<br />

Overleaf, left to<br />

right: Grand Canal<br />

palace façades<br />

viewed from the<br />

fish market; a<br />

stunning waterfall<br />

spotted in Krka<br />

National Park<br />

10 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 11


REVIEW<br />

So, we returned to Viking Sun in<br />

the afternoon to enjoy some of its<br />

many delights and eventually found<br />

ourselves sitting in the sun chatting<br />

to new friends over a cocktail.<br />

We headed down the coast<br />

towards Corfu, to the<br />

island’s old town and<br />

fortress. We took to the<br />

water again, this time<br />

in a small boat to visit<br />

Paleokastritsa and it’s<br />

wonderful coastline.<br />

Our little boat inched its way into<br />

a cave where sunlight somehow<br />

shone through an underwater cave<br />

from the other side, to reveal a<br />

remarkable bright turquoise splash<br />

of water called ‘The Eye’. The last<br />

full day of our journey loomed<br />

as our beautiful ship cruised into<br />

the Ionian Sea and we arrived in<br />

Katakolon. It was to be one of the<br />

most memorable days. Absolutely<br />

There is so much to see – little streets<br />

opening into wonderful old squares,<br />

canals criss-crossed by little bridges<br />

compelling was our visit to<br />

Olympia, the home of the Olympic<br />

games, whose origins go back to<br />

nearly 800 BC and took place<br />

every four years for the next 1100<br />

years till 400 AD. That’s like us<br />

still watching the Olympic games<br />

every four years that were started by<br />

William the Conqueror!<br />

The site is vast, and it was<br />

interesting to see the place where<br />

the present-day<br />

Olympic torch is<br />

lit. The museum is<br />

wonderful: the Greeks<br />

were true masters of<br />

stonemasonry and<br />

sculpture. Here we<br />

found out that the Greeks were the<br />

first to create statues with a relaxed<br />

hip where one leg is bent slightly,<br />

a legacy passed on to Michelangelo<br />

and evident in his David statue. We<br />

both came away truly awestruck by<br />

the spectacle and size of the site.<br />

Back on Viking Sun, we went<br />

to a discussion about the Elgin<br />

Marbles led by the onboard<br />

resident historian; there was an<br />

extensive programme of historical,<br />

geographical and political talks<br />

during the trip to suit all interests.<br />

All too soon our journey was<br />

over but we had a fabulous time.<br />

Everything about the ship, her<br />

staff and our journey was truly<br />

memorable. We loved it so much<br />

we are booked to do it again!<br />

Above: Katakolon,<br />

a small town on<br />

the coast of the<br />

Ionian Sea<br />

Below: The<br />

monastery of<br />

Paleokastritsa<br />

in Corfu<br />

The 8-day 2022 Venice, the<br />

Adriatic & Greece journey,<br />

from Venice to Athens,<br />

starts from £2,740pp.<br />

12 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong>


CITY GUIDE<br />

Athens<br />

Europe’s classical capital beckons with an<br />

electrifying blend of urban grit and ancient<br />

grandeur, delicious food and sweeping vistas<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

Athens is where the<br />

ancient and modern<br />

worlds collide to create<br />

something utterly<br />

spectacular. Centuriesold<br />

Byzantine churches and classical<br />

buildings line cobbled streets, and<br />

sprawling neighbourhoods play<br />

host to buzzing bars, restaurants<br />

and cafes, where people pour<br />

out into the streets and bask in<br />

the heat of the day. The city’s art<br />

scene has abounded in recent<br />

years, with commercial galleries<br />

like The Breeder and Goulandris<br />

Foundation favoured hot spots for<br />

art enthusiasts. Athens exudes a<br />

charming energy and chaos, and at<br />

its heart, the gleaming marble of the<br />

Acropolis, which sits on a hill and<br />

is visible from almost all corners of<br />

the city – an ever-present reminder<br />

of the country’s age-old history.<br />

Don’t miss<br />

• The National Gardens, tucked<br />

away in the heart of the city,<br />

have offered a serene retreat from<br />

the hustle and bustle of the city<br />

since the 19th century.<br />

• The Museum of Cycladic Art is<br />

rich in ancient statues, figurines,<br />

vases and sculptures, with more<br />

than 3,000 artefacts of Cycladic,<br />

ancient Greek and Cypriot origin,<br />

connecting Greece to its past.<br />

• Head to the neighbourhood of<br />

Monastiraki for your fun fix of<br />

rooftop bars, markets, buzzing<br />

restaurants and cafés and peruse<br />

shops filled with antiques and<br />

handmade jewellery<br />

• Be sure to visit Anafiotika, a<br />

charming Cycladic village clinging<br />

to the northern slopes of the<br />

Acropolis. Cats snooze among the<br />

geraniums and whitewashed houses<br />

reflect the sun’s golden glow.<br />

Fast facts<br />

• Athens is Europe’s oldest capital<br />

city, with its origins dating back<br />

to 3,000 BC, and is regarded as the<br />

birthplace of democracy, with the<br />

political system enacted in 500 BC<br />

where eligible citizens could vote<br />

directly on laws.<br />

• The marathon came from the<br />

story of Pheidippides – a Greek<br />

soldier who ran from Marathon,<br />

Greece, to Athens in 490 BC. His<br />

long run has inspired the famous<br />

26.2-mile event today.<br />

• Athens was named after Athena,<br />

the Greek goddess of wisdom and<br />

war, although it was nearly named<br />

after Poseidon, the God of the sea.<br />

Athena won with her gift of an<br />

olive tree.<br />

INSIDER TIPS<br />

Changing of the guards<br />

The Hellenic Parliament<br />

stands in the heart<br />

of the city. It’s here<br />

that two guards take<br />

up residence, dressed in<br />

traditional costume.<br />

Café culture<br />

Experience Grecian café<br />

culture by heading to<br />

the neighbourhoods of<br />

Pangrati and Exarhia,<br />

where locals spill out<br />

from tavernas to play<br />

games of backgammon.<br />

Above: The<br />

Acropolis<br />

dominates the<br />

ancient cityscape<br />

of Athens<br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 13


DISCOVERY<br />

THE SECRETS OF<br />

THE PYRAMIDS<br />

Egypt’s pyramids are its<br />

most iconic treasures.<br />

Discover the necropolis<br />

of Sakkara, thought<br />

to be the first pyramid built in<br />

ancient Egypt. At Giza Plateau,<br />

the most spectacular are the Great<br />

Pyramids of Khufu, Khafre and<br />

Menkaure. Also on the list is Abu<br />

al-Hol – the Sphinx that guards<br />

the entrance to the tombs.<br />

TOP 10<br />

DESTINATIONS IN EGYPT<br />

We’ve rounded up the highlights of this ancient land, a<br />

place where the remains of an ancient civilisation blend<br />

with the hustle and bustle of modern-day life<br />

LUXOR TEMPLE<br />

This striking temple<br />

sits on the fringes of the<br />

modern town of Luxor.<br />

Known as the Southern<br />

Sanctuary, the interiors<br />

boast ancient hieroglyphs<br />

telling of the festival of<br />

Opet which was held<br />

annually in ancient<br />

Egypt. Visit the Great<br />

Court of Ramses II,<br />

whose walls are adorned<br />

with the names and titles<br />

of his 17 sons.<br />

CITADEL OF SALAH EL DIN<br />

The medieval Islamic-era fortification in Cairo is perched on a hill<br />

that looms over the city. Its spectacular dome and minarets shoot<br />

up to dominate the capital city’s skyline while its imposing gateways<br />

and high defending walls show its purpose during a time of warfare.<br />

The citadel is one of Cairo’s main attractions and one of the most<br />

popular non-pharaonic monuments – along with the Mohamed<br />

Ali Mosque – it today houses various museums, and is the most<br />

prominent and photographed spot within the complex.<br />

4<br />

DENDERA TEMPLE<br />

EXPLORATION<br />

The complex of Dendera is one of<br />

Egypt’s best-preserved sites and is<br />

situated on the west bank of the<br />

Nile. It dates all the way back to the<br />

mid-4th century BC and is thought<br />

to be a shrine to the goddess of<br />

love, Hathor. Inside, the temple<br />

boasts examples of Ptolemaic<br />

Egyptian art, and a replica of the<br />

Dendera Zodiac – a sculpture from<br />

the Greco-Roman period that charts<br />

stars in the ancient sky.<br />

TEMPLES OF PHILAE<br />

Founded around 280 BC, the<br />

Temples of Philae were an important<br />

centre for the cult of Isis, and later<br />

were of great significance to the<br />

Greeks and Romans. The temples<br />

are now a UNESCO site, and have<br />

been moved, block by block, to<br />

Agilka Island. Discover the sites<br />

of the temples, staying for the<br />

evening to catch the light show<br />

that creates a dramatic kaleidoscope<br />

of light and shadow, bringing<br />

the figures displayed on<br />

the walls to life.<br />

PHOTOS: ©AWL IMAGES; ISTOCK; ALAMY5<br />

14 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 15


DISCOVERY<br />

6CAIRO MARKETS<br />

Egypt’s pulsating souks<br />

are feasts for all the<br />

senses where you’ll find<br />

everything from crafts<br />

and intricate jewellery<br />

to aromatic and unusual<br />

spices and foods. A trip to Cairo isn’t complete<br />

without a visit to the famous Khan El-Khalili<br />

market where visitors wander its narrow<br />

walkways on a quest for that ultimate souvenir.<br />

The souk sits on the site of what was once an<br />

ancient trade route and so today’s atmosphere<br />

isn’t unlike what it was during the times of<br />

the Berbers and Turks who would trade<br />

after journeying on camelback.<br />

OLD CAIRO<br />

Discover the narrow<br />

alleyways of Coptic Cairo<br />

– the final stage of ancient<br />

Egypt that can be characterised<br />

by its Christian faith. Visit the<br />

Christian Quarter of Cairo, the<br />

Coptic Museum, which holds the<br />

largest collection of Christian artifacts<br />

in the world and is built on the ruins of<br />

the Roman Babylon Fort. Old Cairo is<br />

also home to the Ben Ezra Synagogue,<br />

originally a Coptic church until it was<br />

sold to the Jewish community.<br />

DISCOVERING ASWAN<br />

The Aswan High Dam is a<br />

masterpiece of engineering that<br />

protects the Nile’s surrounding<br />

fields. A modern undertaking<br />

finalised in the 1960s, its<br />

damming established the<br />

300-mile-long Lake Nassar<br />

which now provides electricity<br />

and water for all Egypt.<br />

THE VILLAGE OF ESNA<br />

A charming town off the beaten<br />

track that offers its own fascinating<br />

quirks. Along the waterfront sit<br />

quintessential 19th-century houses<br />

with traditional mashrabiya – wooden<br />

lattice screens. Esna was once the site<br />

of Latopolis, and its ancient temple remains, devoted<br />

to the guardian of the source of the Nile, Khnum.<br />

The temple is thought to be one of the last built<br />

by the Egyptians, and it is here visitors will find the<br />

last-known hieroglyphic inscriptions recorded by the<br />

Roman emperor Dios in 250AD. Towering columns<br />

are still adorned with intricate carvings that tell<br />

Khnum’s story.<br />

10<br />

THE TEMPLE OF HORUS<br />

This particular temple was built in Edfu, on the west bank of the Nile, during the Ptolemaic<br />

Dynasty. Totally submerged by desert sands for two centuries, the temple remains one of the<br />

best preserved of all Egypt’s temples. A shrine to the falcon-headed god of light, the entrance<br />

is flanked by two falcon statues. Inside, you’ll spot a colonnaded courtyard, hieroglyphics and<br />

rows of lotus columns. The stairway to the roof was once used in the annual New Year’s festival<br />

when priests carried a statue of Horus so it could be revitalised by the year’s first sun.<br />

PHOTOS: ©GETTY; ISTOCK<br />

16 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 17


REVIEW<br />

A taste of<br />

Salamanca<br />

Kay Wilkie reports back from her first visit to the<br />

ancient university city of Salamanca, in Spain<br />

This page,<br />

clockwise,<br />

from above:<br />

The magnificent<br />

skyline of<br />

Salamanca;<br />

spotting storks<br />

nesting in the<br />

rooftops is<br />

thought to bring<br />

good luck<br />

We thoroughly<br />

enjoyed revisiting<br />

Lisbon and Porto<br />

on our Portugal’s<br />

River of Gold cruise, however<br />

our favourite destination was<br />

the Spanish university city of<br />

Salamanca. Viking Osfrid moored<br />

at Vega de Terrón, the furthest<br />

navigable point on the Douro,<br />

and we set off. Although we had<br />

holidayed in Spain many times,<br />

we had never visited Salamanca<br />

and my knowledge of the city was<br />

limited to vaguely-remembered<br />

history lessons about the 19thcentury<br />

Peninsula War. A goldenstoned<br />

city with many fine<br />

buildings, including two cathedrals<br />

and the 13th-century university,<br />

there has been a settlement on the<br />

site on the Rio Tormes since<br />

pre-Roman times.<br />

The excursion began in one of<br />

Salamanca’s food markets where<br />

we sampled local cured meats,<br />

cheeses and olives, accompanied<br />

by a glass of locally produced<br />

red wine. From there we headed<br />

to the Plaza Mayor where we<br />

were free to explore. For centuries,<br />

these main squares have been<br />

central to the life of many Spanish<br />

cities, being part town square,<br />

part theatre, part residential and<br />

part gathering place. Built in the<br />

18th century, the Plaza Mayor in<br />

Salamanca is one of the largest<br />

and finest in Spain. Surrounded<br />

by Baroque buildings, it provides<br />

a stunning backdrop for lively<br />

Salamancan life.<br />

Having admired and<br />

photographed the square, we<br />

headed down one of the narrow<br />

streets until we reached a<br />

building with two towers and a<br />

dome, the Pontifical University<br />

of Salamanca, a private Roman<br />

Catholic University. Hearing our<br />

accents, the curator switched to<br />

English and told us that his wife<br />

came from Glasgow and that he<br />

had lived there for several years.<br />

He advised that, despite the many<br />

steps, we should be sure to go right<br />

to the top of the towers for the<br />

magnificent view. He didn’t lie,<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/AWL<br />

about the view or the steps!<br />

The golden city basked in the<br />

sun, and an unexpected bonus was<br />

a close-up view of several storks’<br />

nests in the neighbouring towers.<br />

I was fascinated by the small heads<br />

popping out from the clutter of<br />

sticks. Storks nesting on a rooftop<br />

are thought to bring good luck.<br />

From the towers we noticed that<br />

the walls of the building opposite<br />

were decorated with scallop shells,<br />

the badges of pilgrims en route to<br />

Santiago de Compostela. The Casa<br />

de las Conchas, again built around<br />

a central courtyard, was once the<br />

home of Rodrigo Maldonado, a<br />

knight of Santiago, and is now<br />

a library. After exploring it we<br />

strolled along the narrow streets,<br />

then across the gardens to the<br />

cathedral, or rather the cathedrals,<br />

the new cathedral being built<br />

alongside the old. As Viking<br />

guests we had free entry to this<br />

magnificent Renaissance building.<br />

The Plateresque design is specific<br />

to Spain, so called as the detailed<br />

sculpting on the stone resembles<br />

elaborate silverwork. The highlight<br />

of the new cathedral is the multipanelled<br />

altarpiece surrounding<br />

a statue of Salamanca’s patron<br />

saint. We left through the<br />

12th-century Romanesque<br />

cathedral, but didn’t linger as<br />

there was a wedding in process;<br />

a beautiful bride and a handsome<br />

groom with a congregation of very<br />

fashionably-dressed guests.<br />

From there, we made our way<br />

down to the River Tormes. The<br />

Roman bridge still has 15 of its<br />

original 26 arches and gives a<br />

superb view of Salamanca.<br />

Returning to the cathedral<br />

gardens, we noticed that they were<br />

now filled with people, some in<br />

robes and some stylishly dressed.<br />

We quickly realised that this was a<br />

truly joyful occasion – graduation<br />

– the celebration of several years’<br />

hard work, the beginning of a<br />

new chapter in life and a cause<br />

for family pride. Unlike British<br />

robes – where the subject and class<br />

of degree are denoted by different<br />

coloured hoods – the Spanish<br />

robes had fabric triangles featuring<br />

different colours for different<br />

faculties, on which subject and<br />

degree level were visible. Much to<br />

my husband’s embarrassment, I<br />

enjoyed looking out for different<br />

subjects and classifications, mostly<br />

Life Sciences and Pharmacology.<br />

By now in need of sustenance<br />

before joining the afternoon<br />

walking tour of the 16th-century<br />

university buildings, we were<br />

fortunate enough to find two<br />

seats along with new graduates<br />

and their proud families in one of<br />

the bustling outdoor restaurants.<br />

We ordered some snacks to share<br />

– gambas pil pil, croquettes de<br />

serrano, patatas bravas, tortilla and<br />

albondigas with a plate of pimentos<br />

de Padron on the side, laughing<br />

and spluttering when one of us<br />

got a hot one. As we enjoyed a<br />

glass of Ribera del Duero with our<br />

tapas, a group of music graduates<br />

and lecturers went past, in medieval<br />

dress, playing lutes, guitars and<br />

other stringed instruments.<br />

A truly memorable day.<br />

A 10-day 2022 Portugal’s River<br />

of Gold trip, from Lisbon to<br />

Porto, starts from £2,195pp.<br />

This page,<br />

clockwise, from<br />

top left: Kay<br />

enjoyed the local<br />

delicacies on offer;<br />

the ecclesiastical<br />

architecture was<br />

a highlight; the<br />

University of<br />

Salamanca from<br />

a spectacular<br />

viewpoint<br />

18 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 19


REVIEW<br />

Amazing<br />

Asia<br />

Lindsay and Fiona Robinson look back<br />

at a remarkable journey of contrasts,<br />

from Bangkok to Tokyo<br />

PHOTOS: © ADOBE STOCK; ISTOCK<br />

Two years ago some<br />

friends suggested that we<br />

joined them on the very<br />

first Viking cruise from<br />

Hong Kong to Tokyo. We thought<br />

it would be a great experience and,<br />

in addition, we decided to add on<br />

the preceding sector from Bangkok<br />

to Hong Kong which would allow<br />

us the opportunity to explore even<br />

more of Asia.<br />

We visited huge and spectacular<br />

mega cities and saw a way<br />

of life under attack from the<br />

relentless pace of change. We<br />

also experienced the thoughtful<br />

resilience of Hiroshima and<br />

Nagasaki and the unimaginable<br />

horror experienced by those who<br />

lived there just over 70 years ago.<br />

The countries came thick and<br />

fast with glimpses of Thailand,<br />

Cambodia, Taiwan, and South<br />

Korea and the chance to see<br />

Vietnam, Hong Kong and Japan<br />

in much more depth. We saw<br />

countries at very different stages<br />

of their development. Cambodia<br />

– struggling to escape from the<br />

poverty of a destroyed economy<br />

and education system – was not<br />

easy to see but we appreciated<br />

going, seeing and trying to<br />

understand what it was going<br />

through. We were astonished<br />

by the fast pace of growth, the<br />

creative architecture, ambitious<br />

infrastructure and changing<br />

lifestyles. We saw countries<br />

ruined by war in the last 75<br />

years, resurrected from the ashes.<br />

Busan in Korea, Ho Chi Minh<br />

City, Hiroshima and Nagasaki<br />

have all been transformed after<br />

their destructions and the Asian<br />

economic miracle is clear to see!<br />

CONTRASTS<br />

As well as mega cities, we were<br />

privileged in many places to see<br />

life as it was, and, where – in<br />

just a few places – it remains<br />

unchanged. A two-day trip into<br />

the Mekong Delta from Ho Chi<br />

Minh City allowed us to see the<br />

people and lifestyles in this special<br />

environment. In Ha Long Bay we<br />

took trips into the bay over two<br />

days to see the fishing villages and<br />

the economic development that<br />

sustains traditional communities.<br />

Fun street markets in Hong<br />

Kong provided the chance to work<br />

on our negotiating skills. There<br />

were many opportunities to see<br />

traditional craftsmen at work and<br />

to enjoy local entertainment. The<br />

two breath-taking cable car trips<br />

across the bay in Ha Long Bay<br />

and the other from Lantau back to<br />

Honk Kong were a contrast.<br />

PEOPLE<br />

The people of Asia<br />

are a revelation<br />

and are what make<br />

the experience -<br />

welcoming, hardworking,<br />

young,<br />

fun, spirited and<br />

engaging. We had<br />

some very knowledgeable tour<br />

guides, met the most friendly<br />

people, even in the poorest of<br />

places, and as we travelled<br />

through Japan, every port put<br />

on a special show to welcome<br />

us and bid us farewell.<br />

Unexpected moments of<br />

course are the best: the floating<br />

shopkeeper who came to sell us<br />

delicious fruit in Ha Long Bay;<br />

the Japanese girls dressed in their<br />

gorgeous kimonos celebrating<br />

their new emperor during the<br />

Golden Week celebrations; and<br />

the delightful free guide who took<br />

us around a beautiful garden in<br />

Hiroshima in the pouring rain, and<br />

who wouldn’t even accept a tip! In<br />

Shimizu, we were stunned to find<br />

there was a carnival atmosphere for<br />

our arrival and 24-hour stay in the<br />

shade of Mount Fuji.<br />

This page,<br />

clockwise, from<br />

top right: Kinkaku-<br />

Ju temple in Kyoto;<br />

Lindsay and Fiona<br />

Robinson; dressing<br />

up for Golden Day<br />

in Kyoto<br />

Opposite: The<br />

epic landscape<br />

surrounding<br />

Ha Long Bay<br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 21


REVIEW<br />

PLACES<br />

In Japan, we travelled with the<br />

locals as they celebrated their new<br />

emperor. Vast crowds thronged<br />

religious sites and cities were in<br />

the midst of special celebrations.<br />

Kyoto was perhaps the busiest place<br />

we saw – our tour managed to get<br />

us into the three most spectacular<br />

sites, the Kinka-Ji Golden Temple,<br />

Arashiyama and the bamboo grove,<br />

and the Fushimi Inari complex with<br />

its 10,000 tori gates. The gardeners<br />

even cut the grass with scissors to<br />

leave a stunning moss carpet. I don’t<br />

think that will be repeated in our<br />

garden! In Sihanoukville, we saw<br />

the challenge of starting out again<br />

after the Pol Pot genocide – we<br />

visited the Ream National Park<br />

where attempts have been made to<br />

encourage sustainable tourism, but<br />

also saw a culture where rubbish is<br />

not collected, investment is in very<br />

short supply and pockets of real<br />

poverty and deprivation still exist.<br />

We are glad Viking did not airbrush<br />

out this part of our experience.<br />

VIKING ORION<br />

Viking Orion was the same<br />

beautiful and relaxing place we<br />

know so well. We enjoyed Asianthemed<br />

food, gracious service,<br />

making new friends, and wellproduced<br />

entertainment. We<br />

particularly enjoyed relaxing in the<br />

Living Room bar in the evening as<br />

the pianist Geza played effortlessly<br />

hour after hour and of course the<br />

enthusiastic vocalists who sang in<br />

the Star Theatre most evenings.<br />

The lectures followed the usual<br />

Viking pattern, but on this cruise<br />

there was something different. We<br />

were privileged to attend lectures<br />

with the multi-talented and highly<br />

knowledgeable Dr. John Freedman.<br />

Never have I seen<br />

a lecturer work<br />

so hard and be so<br />

engaging. Sometimes he lectured<br />

twice a day and there was standing<br />

room only in the Star Theatre for<br />

his accessible contemporary history<br />

and culture lecture programme!<br />

AND FINALLY<br />

There were so many highlights<br />

that it is difficult to pick a<br />

few that stand out. For us, we<br />

loved the beauty of Japan, the<br />

welcoming people, the stunning<br />

architecture and visiting the places<br />

where new cities have grown<br />

out of unbelievable horror, with<br />

forgiveness and understanding.<br />

We were fortunate to have Viking<br />

Orion as our base from which to<br />

explore and there is no question if<br />

we could do it all again tomorrow<br />

we would be there without<br />

a second thought! It is a life<br />

experience we will never forget.<br />

A 15-day 2022 Southeast Asia<br />

& Hong Kong trip starts from<br />

£5,290pp, and a 15-day 2022<br />

Far Eastern Horizons journey<br />

starts from £6,490pp.<br />

Clockwise,<br />

from top left:<br />

Kyoto, Japan<br />

at the bamboo<br />

forest; welcoming<br />

children in Ream<br />

National Park;<br />

Asian-themed<br />

food, such as<br />

sushi, was part of<br />

the experience<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ AWL<br />

22 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong>


CITY GUIDE<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

Tokyo skyscrapers,<br />

Electric, sprawling, everchanging,<br />

Tokyo is a<br />

fascinating city known<br />

for its sleek skyscrapers,<br />

pop-coloured<br />

billboards, buzzing nightlife<br />

scene and fast-paced lifestyle. On<br />

the horizon, Mount Fuji looms,<br />

reminding us that as futuristic as<br />

Tokyo feels, it is steeped in history.<br />

Visitors to Tokyo can still find a<br />

taste of time gone by, and head to<br />

its more sleepy neighbourhoods,<br />

where bright lanterns hang from<br />

wooden buildings, seeking to<br />

preserve the culture and history of<br />

the country’s feudal era. Amidst<br />

the hustle and bustle of Tokyo,<br />

tranquillity and stillness can be<br />

found, too. The district of Asakusa<br />

is home to the city’s oldest Buddhist<br />

temple, Senso-Ji, and traditional<br />

stalls along Nakamise street. Along<br />

the Kanda River, the French<br />

Quarter, Kagurazaka, is home to<br />

cobbled streets and Zen paradise<br />

gardens. In springtime, Shinjuku<br />

Gyoen National Garden’s cherry<br />

blossoms are a must-see.<br />

Tokyo is a feast for all senses with its futuristic<br />

ancient temples, and vibrant markets<br />

Don’t miss<br />

• For an authentic experience of<br />

Tokyo, head to Tsukiji fish market.<br />

Get there early and you will catch<br />

all the action, and enjoy the full<br />

experience with a sushi breakfast.<br />

• For a historical tour of Tokyo,<br />

head to Edo-Tokyo Museum and<br />

discover how the 15th-century<br />

village of Edo transformed to<br />

become one of the largest cities<br />

in the world.<br />

• For panoramic views of the<br />

city, make your way up the<br />

Tokyo Metropolitan Government<br />

Building, known as Tochi in<br />

Japanese. On a clear day, you can<br />

see as far as Mount Fuji from the<br />

observation deck on the 45th floor.<br />

• Tokyo is famed for its gaming, so<br />

head to the arcades of Ikebukuro<br />

and watch gamers in action at the<br />

multi-story arcades.<br />

Fast facts<br />

• The cherry blossom is the national<br />

symbol of Japan. In April, the trees<br />

flower for a two-week spectacle,<br />

known as Hanami.<br />

• Tokyo has the world’s highest<br />

volume of Michelin stars.<br />

• The city is home to about 10 per<br />

cent of Japan’s entire population.<br />

If you include the greater Tokyo<br />

metro area of Kanagawa, Saitama<br />

and Chiba, the population amounts<br />

to around 38 million people.<br />

INSIDER TIPS<br />

Sky high<br />

Opened in 2012,<br />

the Tokyo Skytree<br />

broadcasting tower is<br />

an iconic landmark, with<br />

several observation decks<br />

open to the public.<br />

Row and relax<br />

Several districts are<br />

home to boating lakes,<br />

moats and ponds where<br />

visitors can rent rowing<br />

boats by the half hour.<br />

Glide off to find your<br />

very own peaceful oasis.<br />

Above: Tokyo<br />

by night has<br />

an electric<br />

atmosphere<br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 23


DISCOVERY<br />

The GREAT<br />

OUTDOORS<br />

We highlight the variety of inviting outdoor<br />

spaces on board Viking ships<br />

AQUAVIT TERRACE<br />

First designed for Viking Longships, this outdoor<br />

terrace has been reimagined for our ocean ships,<br />

where it is set around the Infinity Pool. By day, it’s<br />

a relaxing lounge area, at night it transforms into a<br />

magical space where your destination is your dining<br />

room. Likewise, on Viking’s expedition ships, the<br />

Aquavit Terrace is a sociable, relaxing space, where<br />

you can take in the views or take a dip in a choice<br />

of three pools.<br />

The great outdoors is especially energising<br />

when you’re at sea or on the river. The<br />

breeze is fresh, the air is clean, and it’s the<br />

perfect place to take a stroll on deck, relax<br />

and restore a sense of equilibrium. We’ve gathered<br />

some of our favourite outdoor places on board our<br />

award-winning ocean ships, Viking Longships and<br />

new expedition ships. Pull up a sun lounger or a<br />

comfy chair – we’ll see you there!<br />

24 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 25


DISCOVERY<br />

PRIVATE VERANDA<br />

Step out of your stateroom straight onto your<br />

private veranda. On the river and at sea (where<br />

every room comes with a veranda), your outside<br />

retreat is the perfect spot to relax and take in<br />

the fresh air, or take breakfast, lunch or dinner<br />

– our ocean ships offer 24-hour room service,<br />

all included, of course.<br />

FINSE TERRACE<br />

This beautiful space on the Viking expedition ships<br />

offers the ultimate in outdoor comfort. Inviting sofas<br />

with feather-filled cushions wrap around a Nordic-style<br />

fire pit, and plush blankets add to the warm ambience.<br />

Everywhere you look, you are met with spectacular<br />

views of stunning scenery.<br />

26 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 27


DISCOVERY<br />

OWNER’S SUITE ON VIKING<br />

EXPEDITION SHIPS<br />

The largest suite onboard our expedition ships<br />

offers 1223 sq.ft of exceptional space and<br />

amenities, including a private garden lounge<br />

area, complete with badestamp, a traditional<br />

wooden-sided hot tub. Perfect for relaxing<br />

after a busy day of exploring.<br />

THE MAIN POOL ON<br />

VIKING OCEAN SHIPS<br />

A haven for relaxation, swims and soaks, the heated<br />

main pool, with its overhead retractable roof, is a<br />

calming oasis in all weathers. By night, it transforms<br />

into a magical venue for stargazing and for watching a<br />

classic movie, or enjoying opera under the stars.<br />

28 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SUN DECK AND LOUNGE<br />

The top deck on the Viking Longships offers a<br />

walking track, organic herb garden, and panoramic<br />

views that change with every bend in the river. This<br />

space on Viking’s ocean ships is an outdoor living<br />

area with comfy sofas, and you can practise your<br />

swing on the putting green and make use of the<br />

fitness equipment.<br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 29


GARDENING<br />

This page: A lush<br />

courtyard area<br />

caught in bright<br />

spring sunshine;<br />

award-winning<br />

designer Paul<br />

Hervey-Brookes<br />

SPRING celebration<br />

Award-winning garden designer, Paul Hervey-Brookes, marks<br />

the new season with historical musings and gardening tips<br />

At this time<br />

of year, each<br />

day seems<br />

to lengthen,<br />

and noticeably so, until<br />

by the end of April,<br />

it seems that spring<br />

has finally sprung, in<br />

all its decadence and<br />

blossom-laden wonder.<br />

The first day of<br />

April, known to many<br />

as ‘April Fools’ Day’,<br />

is the day when the morning can<br />

be spent playing tricks on friends<br />

and family – all light-hearted fun.<br />

Ask almost anyone and they will<br />

find its origins quite obscure, but<br />

they are in fact French. In the<br />

16th century, New Year’s Day was<br />

marked on April 1st and celebrated<br />

with parties, dances and garlands<br />

of blossom and spring flowers.<br />

However, in 1582, Pope Gregory<br />

introduced a revised Christian<br />

calendar which moved New Year’s<br />

Day to January 1st. Of course in<br />

a world without telephones and<br />

computers, news was slow to travel<br />

and New Year’s Day continued<br />

to be celebrated for some time in<br />

April. People who accepted the<br />

new date gradually began playing<br />

tricks on those they called April<br />

fools which was the foundation of<br />

a new tradition that travelled with<br />

European settlers around the world.<br />

The saddest part of this story<br />

for a gardener is the lack of flowers<br />

available for January’s celebrations.<br />

But we can still celebrate the end<br />

of April with another ancient<br />

celebration, Walpurgis Night,<br />

marking the eve of the Christian<br />

feast day of Saint Walpurga.<br />

Thought to be of Scandinavian<br />

origin, Walpurga was born in<br />

Britian in the early 8th century, and<br />

later in life travelled to Germany<br />

where she founded the Catholic<br />

Convent at Heidenheim. She died<br />

in 779 and was made a saint on 1st<br />

May later the same year. By Papal<br />

chance, her saint’s day falls on the<br />

same date as ancient Viking fertility<br />

celebrations and allowed the pagan<br />

ritual and the Catholic celebration<br />

to intertwine, hence the night-time<br />

parades to ward off evil that follow<br />

a day of bell tolling and prayers.<br />

Again flowers were an<br />

integral part of this festival,<br />

used in headdress garlands and<br />

as adornments throughout<br />

the dwellings. April has an<br />

abundance of blooms – from<br />

bluebells, blossom and even wild<br />

orchids – ensuring that these<br />

festivals, complete with incense<br />

and reverence, must have been<br />

a sight to behold. Our own<br />

celebrations in the garden start<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; ALAMY<br />

with the joy of bulbs we planted<br />

last autumn appearing alongside<br />

spring flowering perennials such<br />

as Pulmonarias, Brunnera and<br />

emerging Aquilegia.<br />

April is the first month of the<br />

year where the ground is warm<br />

to the touch, and seeds sown<br />

directly will germinate within days.<br />

No wonder our ancestors of old<br />

saw this as a fertile month and<br />

celebrated it.<br />

I like to direct sow Nigella<br />

seed in April or, if I forget and<br />

am slightly late, in early May. It is<br />

perhaps one of the most dazzling<br />

of the easy annuals you could<br />

choose. I love the soft blues of the<br />

ordinary Nigella damascena, known<br />

commonly to many as ‘Love in the<br />

Mist’, but the ‘Bridal Veil’ variety<br />

has large faded white petals and<br />

highly pronounced black anthers,<br />

so it really does look like a bridal<br />

gown of old.<br />

Nigella damascena comes from<br />

Syria, and was brought to Europe<br />

in the 1500s, most likely by the<br />

Crusaders. Its seeds can be collected<br />

and are often used in cookery and<br />

its soft, fragile-looking flowers dry<br />

well and can be kept for up to five<br />

years before fading completely.<br />

The other must-have easy annual<br />

I grow is the humble marigold,<br />

Calendula officinalis. Again this<br />

can be sown directly in-between<br />

perennials in the open border, in<br />

containers and in cutting beds<br />

during April, May and June.<br />

Calendula, often known as ‘English<br />

Marigold’ comes in many colours,<br />

from brilliant yellow and burnt<br />

orange to the softer pastel shades<br />

and the beautifully bi-coloured<br />

‘Neon’, whose petals are darker on<br />

the reverse, giving a subtle colour<br />

even though the name suggests<br />

something much brighter. Calendula<br />

is an ancient potherb, meaning its<br />

flowers have been used to garnish<br />

salads and other dishes since ancient<br />

Greek times.<br />

In India and the Middle East,<br />

where the flowers were used as a<br />

substitute for saffron, a chance<br />

discovery was made. The poor,<br />

hard-working woman whose hands<br />

should have been calloused and<br />

worn from work instead had soft,<br />

gentle hands, the envy of their<br />

rich masters. The reason seemed<br />

to be cultivating and harvesting<br />

the flowers and stems of Calendula<br />

for food and as a dye plant. This<br />

discovery lead to an explosion in<br />

demand for Calendula which began<br />

in the Middle Ages, when plants<br />

that had been exported to Europe<br />

were closely guarded by the monks<br />

in their monastery gardens. Today,<br />

the plant is just as popular and used<br />

in many skincare products.<br />

One of the other great delights of<br />

the season is rhubarb, forced sweet<br />

pink stems are utterly delicious and<br />

unique. Their sister stems later in the<br />

year need heavy baking and sugars<br />

to render them edible. Rhubarb also<br />

THE ESSENTIALS<br />

With so much to celebrate in the garden, it is<br />

easy to overlook the more humble of gardening<br />

happenings. Keep on top of the weeds now and<br />

spend time rooting out annual weed seedlings<br />

as they germinate to reduce work later on. If<br />

you grow fruits such as currants and raspberries,<br />

reduce your weeding and watering work by<br />

adding a thick mulch now. Wood chips and even<br />

lawn cuttings will work well and you will be<br />

thankful for one less job as the weather starts to<br />

get hotter.<br />

As soon as the frosts have passed in your area<br />

you can plant out dahlias into the borders. These<br />

queens of the later summer garden are loved by<br />

slugs, so mulch thickly and set the odd bear trap<br />

to ensure you enjoy the plants and flowers and<br />

the slugs do not.<br />

had an interesting history, for this<br />

strange, prehistoric looking plant<br />

once cost, gram for gram, more<br />

than gold.<br />

Rhubarb had been an important<br />

and valuable medicinal plant since<br />

2700BC in China, but during the<br />

later years of the Sung Dynasty, one<br />

Emperor believed that a daily dose<br />

kept his Empress thin, beautiful<br />

and youthful of complexion. The<br />

Empress was indeed beautiful<br />

and as the secrets of her beauty<br />

escaped the palace so the demand<br />

for rhubarb rose, along the Silk<br />

Route the news travelled, and in<br />

Russia the craze was so intense that<br />

at one stage it was punishable by<br />

death to take rhubarb out of Russia.<br />

Smuggling the wonder food was<br />

profitable business, ensuring that<br />

in Europe it cost more than gold<br />

for a time.<br />

The bubble eventually burst and<br />

rhubarb was relegated for some<br />

time to depressed English steamed<br />

puddings and school dinners, but<br />

its health properties have been<br />

proven of recent times and with its<br />

superfood status restored, demand<br />

is again increasing. The sweetest<br />

variety to grow is of course a secret<br />

but I’ll let you in on it, the species<br />

form Rheum tanguticum produces<br />

both delicious slim sweet stems, has<br />

attractive cut foliage and its flowers<br />

which come in mid to late summer<br />

are followed by ruby red seed<br />

capsules – worth looking out for.<br />

Above: A Nigella<br />

damascena<br />

‘Persian Jewels’<br />

seedhead<br />

Below: The<br />

superfood rhubarb<br />

once cost more<br />

gram for gram<br />

than gold<br />

30 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 31


REVIEW<br />

Alaskanadventure<br />

Seasoned Viking guests Sheila and Ed Davies venture<br />

into the icescapes of Alaska and Canada<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

This was our 22nd Viking<br />

(river and ocean) cruise.<br />

We were just as excited<br />

about joining our ship<br />

Viking Orion as we were when we<br />

joined our first Viking cruise, and<br />

we were certainly not disappointed.<br />

Prior to embarking on our<br />

cruise we were fortunate enough<br />

to join the Rocky Mountaineer<br />

Journey pre-cruise extension and<br />

what an experience that was. Before<br />

boarding the train we spent three<br />

days in the beautiful city of Banff<br />

and enjoyed the included tour of<br />

the area and the optional tour to<br />

the Columbia Icefield where we<br />

were taken to the Athabasca Glacier<br />

in a huge all-terrain Ice <strong>Explore</strong>r.<br />

On the way we visited the Peyto<br />

Lake – the turquoise water has to<br />

be seen to be believed.<br />

As we waited for the Rocky<br />

Mountaineer train to pull into<br />

the station and take us from Banff<br />

to Vancouver, I have never seen<br />

so many excited people eagerly<br />

waiting to get on board. The<br />

GoldLeaf service was excellent, as<br />

was the view from the glass-domed<br />

upper deck of our exclusive Viking<br />

carriage, giving us a perfect view of<br />

the outstanding scenery along our<br />

route. After two days on board, we<br />

left the train to spend two nights<br />

in the beautiful city of Vancouver<br />

where we enjoyed the included<br />

tour. We would highly recommend<br />

this pre-cruise extension.<br />

Then it was time to join our<br />

ship. It was just like coming home<br />

and we were quickly settled in to<br />

the familiar surroundings of what<br />

was to be our comfortable home for<br />

the next eleven days.<br />

Cruising on day one allowed us<br />

to relax and enjoy the wonderful<br />

scenery of the Inside Passage. On<br />

arriving at Sitka we went on a<br />

whale watching trip with another<br />

couple. We were fortunate to see<br />

some marvellous scenery and a<br />

family of grey whales that circled<br />

the boat – at times they were so<br />

close we could almost touch them.<br />

At Skagway we joined the<br />

optional excursion to the Denver<br />

Glacier to experience the fun of<br />

dog sledding. What an experience!<br />

The helicopter ride up to the glacier<br />

was fabulous, as was the scenery.<br />

We all had a turn at standing on<br />

the back of the sled and the feeling<br />

was exhilarating. Finally, we met<br />

some puppies for a cuddle and<br />

would have run off with them if<br />

no-one was looking. On returning<br />

to Skagway, we enjoyed a walk<br />

around the beautiful town.<br />

The next day was spent scenic<br />

cruising in the Yakutat Bay to<br />

view the Hubbard Glacier and we<br />

were stunned by its vastness and<br />

colours against the water – it was<br />

truly magnificent. The Captain was<br />

able to cruise reasonably close to<br />

the glacier allowing everyone the<br />

opportunity to have a good view<br />

of it. It was amazing to see the<br />

glacier calving and the many small<br />

icebergs floating around the ship.<br />

It was also a great experience<br />

to visit all the other ports of call,<br />

to appreciate how the locals live<br />

and to understand the culture of<br />

the Alaskan people. All too soon<br />

our cruise came to an end and it<br />

was time to go home. But we have<br />

brought many happy memories<br />

home with us and are so pleased to<br />

have cruised with Viking again.<br />

An 11-day 2022 Alaska & the<br />

Inside Passage journey, from<br />

Vancouver to Seward, starts<br />

from £4,790pp.<br />

This page,<br />

clockwise, from<br />

top left: Mount<br />

Edgecumbe, near<br />

Sitka, in Alaska;<br />

Ed and Sheila<br />

Davies next to<br />

a British flag at<br />

Columbia Icefield<br />

Opposite,<br />

clockwise, from<br />

top left: Ed<br />

meeting the dog<br />

sledding puppies<br />

in Skagway; a<br />

dog sledding<br />

experience in the<br />

snow; Icy Strait<br />

Point in Hoonah;<br />

whale watching<br />

in Sitka; Viking<br />

Orion docked in<br />

Skagway; sailing<br />

the Inside Passage<br />

at night; a sea<br />

otter in Sitka;<br />

Hubbard Glacier<br />

Yakutat Bay; Ed<br />

and Sheila at<br />

Columbia Icefield<br />

32 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 33


COOKING<br />

New York Cheesecake A Viking set-up<br />

sent in by Christine and Christopher Gandy<br />

Your<br />

World<br />

Chicken Pörkölt<br />

A hearty Hungarian<br />

stew rustled up by<br />

Wendy and Nick Atkin-Smith<br />

Chicken Pörkölt Jenny Miah served<br />

her chicken recipe alongside pasta<br />

Poached salmon and Cucumber Salad David Thomas<br />

enjoyed making this Norwegian dish at home<br />

Churros and chocolate sauce<br />

Lynne Morris baked these<br />

delicious Spanish treats,<br />

perfect for dipping in chocolate!<br />

Flavours<br />

of the<br />

world<br />

Our readers have been busy exploring<br />

the world from their kitchens...<br />

Mamsen’s Waffles Everybody’s favourite, Lynne Morris<br />

paired her waffles with fresh raspberries<br />

Alaskan Salmon Ella Mitchell<br />

used a brown sugar glaze<br />

for this baked dish<br />

Goulash Mary Crisp tried creating<br />

this Hungarian classic at home<br />

Borscht<br />

Angie Heini cooked this beetroot-based<br />

soup popular in Eastern Europe<br />

Tarte Tatin<br />

Mrs Baker conjured<br />

up this apple tart, a<br />

staple of French cuisine<br />

Smørrebrød (open sandwiches)<br />

A Danish favourite, David and Louise Harrison<br />

combined salmon gravlax with a mustard dill sauce<br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 35


RECIPES<br />

Japan<br />

TEMAKI SUSHI<br />

Serves 4<br />

INGREDIENTS:<br />

• 200g (7oz) sushi rice<br />

• 60ml (2 fl oz) rice vinegar<br />

• 1 tbsp sugar<br />

• ½ tsp salt<br />

• 1 pack sushi nori sheets<br />

FOR THE FILLINGS:<br />

• Sushi grade fresh tuna<br />

• Salmon roe<br />

• Teriyaki chicken<br />

• Avocado<br />

• Cucumber<br />

• Shrimp<br />

• Wasabi<br />

• Sushi ginger<br />

1. Cook the rice according to the<br />

packet instructions. Mix the rice<br />

vinegar, sugar and salt and stir<br />

through the rice. Allow to cool.<br />

2. Cut the nori sheets in half and<br />

assemble all the fillings, cut into<br />

small 10cm (4 inch) strips.<br />

3. To assemble the temaki, spread<br />

a layer of rice over each nori sheet,<br />

then add fillings to taste. Roll into a<br />

cone shape, and moisten one edge<br />

before pressing to seal.<br />

Croatia<br />

A culinary journey<br />

Join us in creating new dishes that celebrate the<br />

amazing variety of local produce and foreign<br />

flavours from these fascinating destinations<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

TROLLKREM<br />

Serves 4<br />

INGREDIENTS:<br />

• 2 egg whites<br />

• 6 tbsp lingonberry jam<br />

• 1 tsp vanilla extract<br />

• 1 tsp caster sugar<br />

TO GARNISH:<br />

• Lingonberry jam<br />

Norway<br />

1. Place all the ingredients into<br />

the bowl of a food mixer (make<br />

sure the bowl is really clean).<br />

2.Whisk on the highest setting<br />

until the mousse increases in<br />

volume and forms soft peaks.<br />

3. Serve piled into individual<br />

glasses and garnish with some<br />

extra lingonberry jam.<br />

BLACK RISOTTO<br />

Serves 4<br />

INGREDIENTS:<br />

• 450g (1 lb) cherry tomatoes<br />

• 2 tbsp olive oil<br />

• 2 cloves garlic, crushed<br />

• 450g (1 lb) squid, prepared and sliced<br />

• 2 tbsp olive oil<br />

• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped<br />

• 1.2l (2 ½ pints) fish stock<br />

• 2 tbsp butter<br />

• 1 small onion, chopped<br />

• 355g (12 ½ oz) Carnaroli risotto rice<br />

• 150ml (5 fl oz) white wine<br />

• Salt and pepper<br />

• 1 x 4g sachet squid ink<br />

1. Prepare the cherry tomatoes. Blanch briefly<br />

in boiling water, then remove with a slotted<br />

spoon, peel and chop.<br />

2. In a frying pan, heat the olive oil, then add<br />

the crushed garlic and the squid. Sauté really<br />

fast and remove from the pan as soon as the<br />

squid starts to curl. Reserve and keep warm.<br />

3. In the same pan, add a further 2 tbsp of<br />

olive oil and the chopped garlic. Fry the garlic<br />

until golden and then add all of the chopped<br />

cherry tomatoes. Cook gently until reduced<br />

and thickened, then add in the squid. Season<br />

with salt and pepper, then keep warm.<br />

4. For the risotto, heat the fish stock in a<br />

saucepan, then in a heavy-based pan melt<br />

the butter, add the onion and cook for<br />

five minutes until soft without colouring<br />

the onion. Add the rice and stir well,<br />

coating in the oil, then add the white wine.<br />

Cook the rice until all the wine has been<br />

absorbed, stirring all the time.<br />

5. Begin to add the warm fish stock, a ladle<br />

at a time, stirring the risotto constantly and<br />

never allowing it to dry out. Add the squid<br />

ink to the risotto and keep stirring, then keep<br />

adding the stock until the rice is just tender<br />

and the risotto is slightly runny. This should<br />

take approximately 15 minutes or so.<br />

6. Serve the risotto and top with the squid<br />

in tomato sauce.<br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 37


RECIPES<br />

VIKING BURGER<br />

Serves 6<br />

INGREDIENTS:<br />

• 6 sesame-seeded buns<br />

• 6 slices cheddar cheese<br />

• 6 slices pancetta<br />

• Smoky barbecue sauce<br />

FOR THE BEEF PATTIES:<br />

• 900g (2 lb) minced beef<br />

• 1 egg, beaten<br />

• 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce<br />

• 70g (2 ½ oz) dry breadcrumbs<br />

USA<br />

FOR THE ONION RELISH:<br />

• 4 tbsp butter<br />

• Pinch salt<br />

• 6 red onions, sliced<br />

• 175ml (6 fl oz) orange juice<br />

• 100ml (3.5 fl oz) red wine vinegar<br />

• 2 tbsp rice wine vinegar<br />

• 4 tbsp honey<br />

• 1 small beetroot<br />

TO SERVE:<br />

• French fries<br />

• Coleslaw<br />

• Lettuce and tomato<br />

• Sweet pickled gherkins<br />

1. To make the burger patties,<br />

mix the minced beef, egg,<br />

Worcestershire sauce and<br />

breadcrumbs together in a large<br />

bowl. Shape into six generous<br />

burgers, then chill until required.<br />

2. For the red onion relish, melt the<br />

butter in a heavy-based pan and<br />

add in the onions. Sprinkle over<br />

the salt, then cook gently until soft<br />

and translucent, but not coloured.<br />

Add in the orange juice and both<br />

vinegars, then stir in the honey<br />

and the thinly-sliced beetroot.<br />

3. Continue to cook gently until<br />

all the excess liquid has evaporated<br />

and the mixture has thickened.<br />

Allow to cool.<br />

4. Season the burger patties with<br />

salt and pepper, then grill for<br />

about 3-5 minutes on each side<br />

(depending on your preferences).<br />

5. Meanwhile, toast the burger<br />

buns and add a slice of cheddar to<br />

the bottom half. Place the cooked<br />

burgers onto the cheese. As you<br />

remove the burgers, add the slices<br />

of pancetta to the grill to crisp up.<br />

6. Top each burger with a spoonful<br />

of the onion relish and a squeeze<br />

of barbecue sauce. Finish with the<br />

crispy pancetta before adding the<br />

top half of the bun. Serve with<br />

French fries, coleslaw, crunchy<br />

lettuce and slices of tomato, and a<br />

few sweet-pickled gherkins.<br />

TARTE TATIN<br />

Serves 6<br />

INGREDIENTS:<br />

• 100g (3 ½ oz) caster sugar<br />

• 55g (2 oz) butter<br />

• 6 dessert apples<br />

• 2 tbsp butter<br />

• 320g (11.2 oz) puff pastry<br />

1. Preheat the oven to 175°C.<br />

Heat the sugar and butter over a<br />

medium heat until it turns a deep<br />

golden brown. Don’t allow the<br />

caramel to burn.<br />

2. Peel and halve the apples,<br />

scooping out the seeds with a<br />

spoon. Place all the apples in<br />

the caramel and cook, moving<br />

France<br />

them around in the caramel, for<br />

approximately 10 minutes. Next,<br />

in a 23cm (9 inch) diameter oven<br />

proof dish or pan, arrange the<br />

apple halves, rounded side down.<br />

Fill in any gaps with cut apples and<br />

dot with small pieces of butter.<br />

3. Roll the pastry out into a circle,<br />

slightly larger than the pan and<br />

about 5mm (0.2 inch) thick.<br />

Place the disc of pastry over the<br />

caramelized apples, tucking the<br />

edges in all around the dish. Brush<br />

with melted butter.<br />

4. Bake for around 30 to 40<br />

minutes, or until the pastry is<br />

golden brown and the caramel is<br />

starting to ooze from the tart. Leave<br />

to cool for an hour before serving.<br />

38 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 39


FASHION<br />

The<br />

Bright Side<br />

Mix and match your colours for<br />

a fresh new look this spring<br />

Leather purse<br />

White Stuff, £35<br />

Pink chinos<br />

From a selection at Next<br />

Blouse<br />

Next, £35<br />

Sandals<br />

Accessorize, £22.50<br />

Cardigan<br />

Tu Clothing, £20<br />

Paper hat<br />

National Trust, £20<br />

Denim midi skirt<br />

M&Co, £35<br />

Raincoat<br />

Regatta, £75<br />

40 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

Trainers<br />

Marks & Spencer, £39.50<br />

Sunglasses<br />

Oliver Bonas, £24


INTERVIEW<br />

INSPIRING PEOPLE<br />

Debbie Wiseman<br />

The celebrated composer discusses her wide-ranging<br />

musical career, and her inspirations<br />

Did you grow up as part of<br />

a musical family?<br />

There is an unsubstantiated<br />

rumour that one of my great-great<br />

grandfathers may have been an<br />

opera singer, but apart from that, I<br />

was the first in the family to show a<br />

real interest in playing an instrument<br />

– and it was quite a surprise to my<br />

parents because they weren’t musical<br />

at all! From the moment I started<br />

to learn to play the piano at 7 years<br />

old, I think I knew even then that I<br />

wanted to be a musician. By the time<br />

I got a place at the Guildhall School<br />

of Music and Drama I knew I wanted<br />

to be a composer.<br />

How did your career get started?<br />

Although the Guildhall composition<br />

course was a purely classical training,<br />

there was interaction with the drama<br />

department, so I was involved in<br />

some of the productions there. I<br />

knew I wanted to write film and TV<br />

scores, so I put together a showreel<br />

of music and sent it out to hundreds<br />

of directors and producers – pretty much<br />

every film and TV company in the country!<br />

After almost two years I received a reply<br />

from a director who was making a film<br />

for Channel 4. He bravely took a chance<br />

on a new composer and I’ll always be<br />

grateful for that.<br />

Who or what inspires you, and why?<br />

When I’m writing for a film or production<br />

then I have the inspiration on screen which is<br />

a real gift for a composer! When I’m writing<br />

an album, on the other hand, I’ll have a<br />

concept in mind and that will kickstart<br />

the writing process. The Viking signature<br />

music was composed following visits to the<br />

beautiful ocean and river ships – which<br />

was the perfect inspiration!<br />

Who would you like to dine with?<br />

Mozart and Beethoven! I would love to<br />

spend even 5 minutes in their company.<br />

What kind of food do you love most?<br />

I love all types of fish – and simple pasta<br />

dishes too. Why? Because that’s pretty much<br />

all I can cook, except for apple crumble –<br />

and despite my husband’s insistence to the<br />

contrary, we can’t eat that all the time!<br />

Do you have a memory that stands<br />

out from a trip abroad?<br />

I have so many lovely memories, but I<br />

enjoy anywhere that takes me to the sea.<br />

Listening to the sounds of the ocean and<br />

watching the ever-changing waves is relaxing<br />

and invigorating at the same time. It’s no<br />

coincidence that so many great works of<br />

art and pieces of music have been inspired<br />

by the sea.<br />

What was the inspiration for the<br />

podcasts you’ve recently produced<br />

for Viking?<br />

We thought, wouldn’t it be great to be able<br />

to escape virtually for an hour or so and<br />

go on one of the cruises from the comfort<br />

of our own homes! The wonderful cellist<br />

and writer Justin Pearson worked with us<br />

to create this 6-part series which takes in<br />

several Viking cruises, and we’ve built a<br />

light-hearted story around the adventures<br />

and mishaps of musician Elizabeth<br />

Drinkwater. It was such fun<br />

recording the series!<br />

What has been your career<br />

highlight?<br />

Looking back, each project I’ve<br />

worked on has been the highlight<br />

of my career at the time; the next<br />

step along the way, if you like…<br />

I’ve been so lucky to have been<br />

involved in so many brilliant things<br />

over the years – films, TV series,<br />

concerts, Royal events – so I can’t<br />

possibly raise one above the rest!<br />

What are you currently<br />

working on?<br />

I’m writing a new orchestral<br />

album for Decca to mark the<br />

Queen’s 95th birthday, which will<br />

be released in June. It features<br />

music specially composed to<br />

reflect the reigns of 12 selected<br />

kings and queens, culminating in<br />

a celebratory piece for HRH Queen<br />

Elizabeth II. I’ve also written and<br />

will present a show for Classic FM – Music<br />

for Monarchy – which will look at the hugely<br />

varied music that’s been composed for<br />

royalty through the ages. There will be<br />

new scores for the BBC and Channel 4 for<br />

several upcoming television series. All of<br />

these projects were postponed last year, so<br />

I can’t wait to get going again!<br />

From top: Composer Debbie Wiseman, OBE; Debbie<br />

conducts the National Symphony Orchestra while<br />

recording The Traveller at Abbey Road Studios<br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 41


REVIEW<br />

Making memories<br />

From her home in Scotland, Susan Robertson crossed into<br />

the Arctic Circle for an unforgettable adventure<br />

This page,<br />

clockwise, from<br />

above: Viking Sky<br />

illuminated by the<br />

northern lights;<br />

a sledge ride was<br />

one of the many<br />

highlights of<br />

the trip<br />

When I thought about<br />

which memories to<br />

write about I was<br />

spoilt for choice,<br />

but I decided on our last ocean<br />

cruise, In Search of the Northern<br />

Lights. My husband, Andrew, and I<br />

live in the north of Scotland, where<br />

we get very cold and snowy winters<br />

and our friends thought we were<br />

mad going to Norway for an even<br />

colder holiday. However this cruise<br />

proved them wrong!<br />

Having packed all our thermal<br />

underwear and woolly jumpers we<br />

joined Viking Sky in London to<br />

start our adventure. After a relaxing<br />

overnight cruise we woke in<br />

Stavanger. Having visited before on<br />

a Viking Homelands cruise we took<br />

the opportunity to explore more of<br />

this town by ourselves. A trip to<br />

the Oil Museum was a must as we<br />

live near Aberdeen, the oil capital<br />

of Europe. The visit was fascinating<br />

as we were able to relate to a lot<br />

of the exhibits.<br />

With clear blue skies and<br />

no sign of snow we began to<br />

wonder when we would need all<br />

our winter gear. We needn’t have<br />

worried because the further north<br />

we cruised the more snow we saw<br />

and the colder it became. There was<br />

great excitement as we approached<br />

the marker for passing the Arctic<br />

Circle and we all had cameras at<br />

the ready to capture the occasion.<br />

Our certificates are pinned up in<br />

our kitchen to remind us.<br />

The wind was strong so we<br />

sailed on to Tromsø and were able<br />

to enjoy an extra day there. I really<br />

wanted to buy a reindeer hide and<br />

when we went shopping we<br />

were amazed to find that the<br />

pavements are all heated to keep<br />

them snow-free. Feeling full of<br />

energy, we decided to go up and<br />

down in the cable car above the<br />

town and walk back to the ship.<br />

What superb views over the whole<br />

area we had from the top and we<br />

were so lucky to have such clear<br />

blue skies. After a beautiful concert<br />

in Tromsø cathedral we got our<br />

first show of northern lights. A<br />

lovely end to the day.<br />

PHOTOS: © SHUTTERSTOCK<br />

The next day was a real highlight<br />

for us. This was the trip to the<br />

Sámi to find out all about their way<br />

of life and to meet their reindeer<br />

and ride on a sledge. What a lovely<br />

family and so welcoming to us all.<br />

Andrew and I also had a very fast<br />

ride on the back of their skidoos<br />

as father and daughter raced each<br />

other. A bit speedier than the<br />

reindeer sledge!<br />

Our next stop was Alta in the<br />

far north. A day out to see huskies<br />

and experience a ride almost as fast<br />

as the skidoo. Wandering around<br />

the town we were impressed by the<br />

wonderful ice sculptures, especially<br />

a full-size tractor, before going to<br />

the market where we chatted to a<br />

stall holder who travels all the way<br />

from Sweden to sell his goods.<br />

In the evening we set off in<br />

buses to search for the northern<br />

lights. We weren’t sure whether<br />

they would dance for us as the<br />

weather was a bit cloudy but<br />

suddenly they appeared and we<br />

were mesmerised. What a spectacle<br />

to witness. Soon it was time to<br />

board the ship and start going back<br />

down south again but we still had<br />

Narvik and Bergen to look forward<br />

to before the end of the cruise.<br />

From Narvik we had opted to<br />

visit the Polar Park where we had<br />

knowledgeable guides who told us<br />

about the animals. It was wonderful<br />

to see moose, bears, wolves, musk<br />

ox and lynx fairly close by, although<br />

I wouldn’t like to meet any of them<br />

without the fences.<br />

Almost the end of the cruise<br />

but we still had Bergen to explore.<br />

Having been before we decided to<br />

take the funicular up the mountain<br />

and have a guided walk. It was a<br />

beautiful clear day and the views<br />

were magnificent. A fitting finale to<br />

a once-in-a-lifetime experience.<br />

I had one last treat the next<br />

morning – my waffle in Mamsen’s<br />

before we said goodbye to newfound<br />

friends and the wonderful<br />

Viking crew. However, every time<br />

we look at my reindeer hide draped<br />

over the couch we are reminded<br />

of the unforgettable experiences<br />

we had on our In Search of the<br />

Northern Lights trip.<br />

A 13-day 2022 In Search of<br />

the Northern Lights journey,<br />

from London to Bergen, or in<br />

reverse, starts from £3,990pp.<br />

This page,<br />

clockwise, from<br />

above: The Arctic<br />

Cathedral in<br />

Tromsø; an aerial<br />

view of Tromsø,<br />

Norway; a reindeer<br />

was one of the<br />

many animals that<br />

Susan spotted on<br />

the journey<br />

42 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 43


CULTURE<br />

This page: Soprano<br />

Lauren Fagan<br />

debuts as Violetta<br />

in La traviata at<br />

Opera Holland Park<br />

A BREATH OF<br />

FRESH AIR<br />

Opera Holland Park’s Anna Picard celebrates<br />

the company’s new outdoor setting and<br />

introduces the <strong>2021</strong> summer season<br />

Twenty-five years old this<br />

summer, Opera Holland<br />

Park is the only opera<br />

company in London to<br />

enjoy the ease of access that comes<br />

with a central urban location and<br />

the natural beauty of surrounding<br />

gardens and woodland. Its global<br />

reputation is twofold: as a company<br />

that balances stylish productions<br />

of core repertoire and operatic<br />

rarities with year-round awardwinning<br />

community and education<br />

work; and as a place where artists,<br />

creatives and audiences feel<br />

equally at home.<br />

This year there is a fresh twist<br />

to the summer season, which<br />

marks the company’s return to<br />

full productions after a year in<br />

which the arts fell silent. Beneath<br />

the theatre’s iconic canopy roof,<br />

a new 400-seat auditorium is<br />

being built to accommodate<br />

flexible socially-distanced seating<br />

that will be arranged each night<br />

according to the size of the ticket<br />

holders’ bubbles. The space has<br />

been reimagined by the acclaimed<br />

set designer, takis, to maximise<br />

the connection to the greenery of<br />

Holland Park, with an extended<br />

stage, a boutique feel, and<br />

reclaimed and sustainable materials.<br />

The upcoming season is set to<br />

begin on 1 June and sees the return<br />

of music theatre to Kensington<br />

with five full productions by<br />

Opera Holland Park. <strong>2021</strong> also<br />

marks the tenth anniversary of<br />

Opera Holland Park’s famous<br />

Young Artists scheme, which<br />

identifies and nurtures talented<br />

singers, directors, conductors and<br />

designers The first production of<br />

the season, Mozart’s The Marriage<br />

of Figaro, features six graduates of<br />

the scheme, now emerging stars<br />

in their own right. The material in<br />

the opera is juicy: a marriage on<br />

the rocks, a wedding in peril, a riot<br />

of teenage hormones, and some of<br />

Mozart’s most sublime music.<br />

Written in 1786, The Marriage<br />

of Figaro has never grown stale<br />

or fallen out of fashion. Perhaps<br />

because the trials of love, lust,<br />

infatuation, infidelity, jealousy<br />

and reconciliation are so familiar.<br />

In the course of a single hectic<br />

day on Count Almaviva’s estate,<br />

Aguas Frescas, three couples are<br />

united or reunited in marriage,<br />

while a fourth pairing is hinted<br />

between Cherubino and Barbarina,<br />

youngest members of the<br />

household. Expect bursts of insight<br />

into human nature, a faultlessly<br />

constructed comedy, and music<br />

as fresh as a summer breeze.<br />

Of the five works in Opera<br />

Holland Park’s <strong>2021</strong> season<br />

44 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 45


CULTURE<br />

only one has an urban setting.<br />

La traviata is Parisian to its core,<br />

a fierce critique of conventional<br />

morality played out in the French<br />

capital’s hedonistic demimonde.<br />

Verdi’s opera is as much an exercise<br />

in realism as it is a romance. Two<br />

forms of consumption drive the<br />

tragedy: the pulmonary tuberculosis<br />

from which Violetta Valéry is in<br />

remission when we first meet her,<br />

and the conspicuous consumption<br />

involved in maintaining her<br />

position as the most celebrated<br />

courtesan of her age.<br />

Glittering dances and<br />

exquisite arias are contrasted in<br />

this powerful drama of love and<br />

loss. Champagne, cut flowers,<br />

high fashion, gambling, dining<br />

and dancing come at a price,<br />

whether funded by entertaining a<br />

consortium of lovers or a single,<br />

extremely wealthy benefactor.<br />

So, alas, does happiness. Violetta<br />

abandons her apartment, her<br />

friends, her profession for Alfredo.<br />

After three short months in the<br />

country with him, ‘revived by the<br />

breath of love’, her money runs<br />

out. Verdi’s music reminds us that<br />

the city does not care, that its<br />

appetite for distraction and luxury<br />

is unstoppable. Even as Violetta<br />

lies dying back in Paris, longing<br />

for Alfredo’s return, the hedonism<br />

continues outside on the streets, a<br />

raucous mardi gras chorus.<br />

Set in the vineyards and<br />

orchards of Alsace, L’amico Fritz<br />

is another opera in which nature<br />

plays a critical role. Suzel’s gift of<br />

a bunch of violets is the first signal<br />

that Rabbi David’s choice of bride<br />

for his bachelor friend, Fritz, is the<br />

right one, despite their age gap.<br />

Fritz is moved by Suzel’s gesture,<br />

but remains reticent until<br />

David devises a scheme<br />

in which to bring the<br />

lovers together.<br />

Mascagni’s fragrant,<br />

airy writing blossoms into<br />

something warmer and richer in the<br />

‘Cherry Duet’ between Fritz and<br />

Suzel. Laced with charming arias<br />

and echoes of Jewish folk melodies,<br />

this new production of L’amico<br />

Fritz, a rarity in other houses,<br />

marks the welcome return of an old<br />

favourite to Opera Holland Park.<br />

A happy ending is also assured<br />

in Gilbert and Sullivan’s comedy,<br />

The Pirates of Penzance.<br />

Co-produced with Charles Court<br />

Opera, this family favourite is<br />

famous for its wordplay, as romance<br />

blossoms amid the daisies and<br />

willows of Cornwall, despite the<br />

interventions of the police and<br />

the Pirate King.<br />

The space has been reimagined<br />

to maximise the connection to the<br />

greenery of Holland Park<br />

The greenest and wildest of the<br />

five operas in the <strong>2021</strong> season is<br />

The Cunning Little Vixen. Here, two<br />

sets of characters, one human, the<br />

other a cast of animals and insects,<br />

live, love, grow up and grow<br />

older as the seasons change in the<br />

Moravian forest. Chief among the<br />

human characters is the Forester,<br />

who first sees Vixen Sharp-Ears<br />

when she is a cub and wants her for<br />

a pet. Any hope of taming her<br />

is quickly lost. Teased by the<br />

Forester’s children, she dodges<br />

the attentions of a lustful dog,<br />

radicalises the chickens,<br />

humiliates the cockerel and<br />

finally escapes to the forest.<br />

Janáček was too wise<br />

an observer of nature to<br />

sentimentalise his animal<br />

characters but he did<br />

make them loveable,<br />

real and recognisable.<br />

With the accompaniment of<br />

Janáček’s exuberantly rhythmic<br />

score, The Cunning Little Vixen<br />

captures the joys, thrills, fears<br />

and sorrows of our existence –<br />

whether or not we have a tail.<br />

It couldn’t be easier to journey<br />

to Seville, Paris, the Alsace, Moravia<br />

and Cornwall this summer, with<br />

Opera Holland Park.<br />

www.operahollandpark.com<br />

Above, from<br />

top: An artist’s<br />

impression<br />

of the new<br />

flexible seating<br />

arrangements at<br />

Opera Holland<br />

Park; the canopy<br />

protects audiences<br />

from the elements<br />

whilst enjoying<br />

an al fresco<br />

performance<br />

PHOTOS: © OPERA HOLLAND PARK<br />

BECOME A MEMBER AT<br />

OPERA<br />

HOLLAND<br />

PARK<br />

WITH AN EXCLUSIVE<br />

FREE TRIAL FOR<br />

VIKING SUBSCRIBERS<br />

Enjoy a summer of al fresco<br />

opera in our new socially<br />

distanced theatre<br />

The Marriage of Figaro Mozart<br />

La traviata Verdi<br />

The Cunning Little Vixen Janáček<br />

L’amico Fritz Mascagni<br />

The Pirates of Penzance Gilbert & Sullivan<br />

As a member you’ll enjoy exclusive benefits<br />

throughout the summer, including:<br />

◗ £8 off every ticket to our main-stage productions<br />

◗ 10% off all food and drink at the theatre<br />

◗ Discounts across our pre-season events<br />

◗ No booking fees and free ticket exchanges<br />

No commitment or payment necessary.<br />

To redeem visit the Opera Holland Park website<br />

CULTURE<br />

operahollandpark.com/viking-offer<br />

46 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong>


REVIEW<br />

REVIEW<br />

Russia<br />

by river<br />

Chris Purnell travelled the waterways of Russia,<br />

enjoying everything from vodka to ballet<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

above: A stunning<br />

view of Moscow<br />

from the river; the<br />

famous domes<br />

of St. Basil’s<br />

Cathedral; sunset<br />

on the River Volga;<br />

Kizhi Pogost, the<br />

famous site on<br />

Kizhi Island<br />

We arrived at our<br />

ship, Viking Akun,<br />

on a beautiful<br />

May morning.<br />

It was such a lovely day that I<br />

had no coat on and I will always<br />

remember the shudder of one of<br />

the crew members at my bare arms.<br />

She told me “Madam, you are in<br />

Russia!” We later found that she<br />

was the Hotel Manager, the lovely<br />

Karoline. She reminded me often<br />

during the cruise about that first<br />

encounter. That was the start of a<br />

very memorable cruise, a fantastic<br />

experience that turned lifetime<br />

dreams into treasured memories.<br />

Our first full day on board<br />

found us visiting the sumptuous<br />

Catherine Palace at Pushkin. We<br />

were the first group to arrive so<br />

had early access to the palace<br />

and wandered the rooms and<br />

halls before strolling through the<br />

vast grounds. We returned to<br />

Viking Akun for lunch, had a lazy<br />

afternoon exploring the ship and<br />

then on to the Cossack show in the<br />

evening, a fun-filled experience not<br />

to be missed. My husband, Bob,<br />

was persuaded up onto the stage<br />

to join in, great fun.<br />

St. Petersburg is fabulous. We<br />

toured the Hermitage on day two<br />

and although we had been once<br />

before it was still a great treat. An<br />

even bigger treat that evening was<br />

a visit to the ballet. Swan Lake was<br />

performed and was wonderful, an<br />

amazing included excursion and<br />

another forever-memory made. We<br />

returned to the ship quite late and<br />

found that the chef had prepared a<br />

goulash supper for us. Viking really<br />

does think of everything.<br />

A kommunalka visit on day<br />

three was a real eye opener – an<br />

authentic look at how the residents<br />

live. Tea and cakes were served by<br />

our hostess and an interpreter. As<br />

we sailed from St. Petersburg that<br />

night, we had no idea just how<br />

many treats were waiting for us<br />

along the river. The next day we<br />

stopped at Mandrogy where we<br />

visited the open air craft museum<br />

and saw many local craftspeople<br />

displaying their skills. We also<br />

visited the vodka museum which<br />

was eye-popping! So many varieties,<br />

so little time, but we did our best!<br />

PHOTOS: © SHUTTERSTOCK<br />

Kizhi Island the next day was<br />

another lovely experience, the<br />

onion-domed churches and village<br />

buildings were beautiful against a<br />

bright blue sky<br />

– we all took<br />

a lot of photos<br />

that day. Back<br />

on board a sailaway<br />

party had<br />

been prepared.<br />

We all needed<br />

a sleep in the<br />

afternoon, the<br />

extra-large balconies providing the<br />

perfect spot.<br />

The cruise continued with<br />

memories being made both on<br />

and off the ship. The wheelhouse<br />

tour with lovely Captain Vladimir<br />

was both fun and informative. The<br />

scenic cruising for part of every day<br />

was very welcome after the walking<br />

tours. On day seven, we visited the<br />

14th-century Kirillo-Belozersky<br />

Monastery and a local school. It<br />

We also visited the<br />

vodka museum. So<br />

many varieties,<br />

so little time...but we<br />

did our best!<br />

was interesting to note the great<br />

differences between this school<br />

and schools in the <strong>UK</strong>.<br />

One of the most welcome<br />

surprises was on the next day, when<br />

we visited Yaroslavl, a fabulous<br />

city. After a very long walking tour<br />

we arrived at the local market. We<br />

admired the local produce and<br />

as we turned the corner found a<br />

Viking stand, complete with chef<br />

Leonidas and crew, ready with<br />

much-appreciated drinks and<br />

snacks for us.<br />

The next day we arrived at<br />

Uglich, a pretty town with a cluster<br />

of churches alongside the river.<br />

After visiting the churches we were<br />

taken by local bus, complete with<br />

icons, curtains and cushions, to<br />

visit a local family in their home.<br />

We enjoyed snacks and homebrewed<br />

vodka, at 10.30am, whilst<br />

chatting about our lives.<br />

That night we sailed for<br />

Moscow. Arriving at lunchtime,<br />

we were taken on the fabulous<br />

metro system into the city centre<br />

for our walking tour. After the<br />

tour we were treated to a classical<br />

folklore concert – it was such a<br />

wonderful evening. The sound<br />

of Lara's Theme<br />

performed on the<br />

balalaika will stay<br />

with me forever.<br />

We also visited<br />

The Pushkin<br />

Museum of Fine<br />

Arts on the next<br />

day, a real treat!<br />

Our last day<br />

came far too soon but saw the<br />

culmination of a dream I have<br />

had since childhood, to stand<br />

alongside St. Basil’s Cathedral in<br />

Red Square. It didn’t disappoint!<br />

We then toured Red Square, the<br />

Kremlin and the gigantic GUM<br />

department store. This was truly<br />

a cruise-of-dreams, made possible<br />

by Viking, and made even more<br />

special by travelling with lovely<br />

friends, Sue and Carl, who we<br />

met several years ago on a Viking<br />

cruise. The itinerary was fabulous,<br />

the staterooms excellent, the crew<br />

amazing, as usual. Thank you<br />

Viking, we can’t wait to see you<br />

again and make more memories.<br />

A 13-day 2022 Waterways<br />

of the Tsars journey from<br />

St. Petersburg to Moscow, or in<br />

reverse, starts from £3,095pp.<br />

48 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 49


TRAVEL<br />

Love<br />

AFFAIR<br />

Catherine Collins celebrates the<br />

ever-changing views, photographed<br />

on a journey to Norway with Viking<br />

My love affair with<br />

the sea began a long<br />

time ago in New<br />

Zealand where I<br />

was born. We were never far from<br />

it and despite a near miss with it<br />

as a toddler, it became my best<br />

teacher. I learned to swim, sail<br />

and fish in it. I discovered the<br />

delights of moonlight on water<br />

and phosphorescence, and giant<br />

stingrays cruising in the calm water<br />

of early morning and evening.<br />

Our young lives were ruled by<br />

tides and weather; when to<br />

launch and retrieve the boats<br />

featured heavily.<br />

In my early 20’s I moved<br />

to London. No sea. I missed<br />

it terribly, but I embraced<br />

other interests, predominantly<br />

photography and design. Now<br />

I live by the sea again, and it’s<br />

as if I’d never left it.<br />

This page,<br />

clockwise,<br />

from top left:<br />

A view of land<br />

looming on the<br />

horizon; sunset<br />

view from deck;<br />

Geirangerfjord<br />

in the distance<br />

It brought my love of photography,<br />

design and the sea together in<br />

15 days of utter perfection<br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 51


TRAVEL<br />

Above: Built<br />

in 1842,<br />

Geirangerfjord<br />

church is known<br />

for its traditional<br />

Norwegian style<br />

Below: Light casts<br />

beautiful shadows<br />

on the land<br />

From the moment I stepped on<br />

board, I was transfixed by the<br />

beauty of the ship whose every<br />

aspect is impeccably considered<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

top left: The ship<br />

passes serene<br />

rocky bays; a<br />

glimpse of the<br />

midnight sun from<br />

deck; an aerial<br />

view of the ship,<br />

Viking Sea<br />

In 2019, I began another love affair.<br />

I did something I had never<br />

done before. I went on a cruise<br />

with Viking, to Norway, Into the<br />

Midnight Sun. It somehow brought<br />

my love of photography, design<br />

and the sea together in 15 days<br />

of utter perfection.<br />

From the moment I stepped<br />

on board, I was transfixed by the<br />

beauty of the ship whose every<br />

aspect is impeccably considered and<br />

exquisite. But the views completely<br />

blew me away. I don’t think any<br />

photograph or description could<br />

ever do them justice. What could<br />

be more rewarding than travelling<br />

the world in the best floating hotel<br />

imaginable. Thank you Viking, for<br />

being the company you are, and<br />

for giving us the possibility to<br />

realise our dreams.<br />

A 15-day 2022 Into the Midnight<br />

Sun trip, from Bergen to London,<br />

starts from £5,590pp.<br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 53


DISCOVERY<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

above: Damon<br />

and his wife<br />

Hannah; beautiful<br />

Antarctica; Damon<br />

emerges from an<br />

ice hole with a<br />

plankton sample;<br />

Damon (back<br />

row, second from<br />

right) with the<br />

British Antarctic<br />

Survey wintering<br />

team, Signy Base,<br />

1993; Damon’s<br />

1993 diary entry<br />

describing a (cold!)<br />

water polo match<br />

“I when mentioned in<br />

My ANTARCTIC<br />

was an Antarctic diver.”<br />

A simplified description<br />

of my early career, yet<br />

social settings nearly thirty years<br />

after I first successfully applied for<br />

work as a marine biologist with the<br />

British Antarctic Survey, I still feel<br />

a tingle of excitement and the sense<br />

of immense privilege to have had<br />

the opportunity to experience the<br />

greatest wilderness on the planet.<br />

In 1992, I graduated from a<br />

marine biology degree at university<br />

and was immediately plunged<br />

into the extensive preparations<br />

Dr. Damon Stanwell-Smith, Head of Science and<br />

Sustainabilty at Viking Expeditions, reflects on his emotional<br />

connection with this icy wilderness<br />

required for a deployment to Signy<br />

Base in the South Orkney Islands.<br />

With some pleasing symmetry, it<br />

included spending the summer in<br />

the (Northern) Orkney Islands,<br />

training in commercial diving<br />

within the deep and swirling waters<br />

of Scapa Flow. I couldn’t quite<br />

believe I was being paid to explore<br />

this diving Mecca of scuttled<br />

warships and Celtic mystery.<br />

After the course, I spent a<br />

weekend with friends by the coast<br />

on the South of England. It was<br />

October, and we were jumping<br />

in and out of the seasonally frigid<br />

sea, and I was the one complaining<br />

the most about feeling cold. I<br />

was teased about my impending<br />

choice of subaquatic career and<br />

was privately crushed by shivering<br />

doubt that I was making a<br />

monumental mistake.<br />

However, the Southern Ocean<br />

beckoned and I was swept along<br />

with the regimented excitement<br />

of the long flights south, then<br />

boarding an ice-strengthened ship<br />

across the fearsome Scotia Sea to<br />

eventually reach our island home<br />

for the next three years. Myriad<br />

adventures followed – of discovery<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; DAMON STANWELL-SMITH<br />

and self-discovery – with thirteen<br />

colleagues and many thousands of<br />

penguins and seals.<br />

My research investigated the<br />

planktonic, drifting larvae of the<br />

underwater invertebrate animals<br />

that thrive in Antarctic waters and<br />

I immersed myself in endeavouring<br />

to understand their way of life.<br />

However, my overriding memory<br />

of that time is the morning ritual<br />

of donning a neoprene drysuit and<br />

breathing apparatus and lowering<br />

myself through a hole chain-sawed<br />

through the sea ice. Swimming<br />

down, down. I can close my eyes<br />

and it is as vivid as yesterday,<br />

recalling those wind-swept icy<br />

sledge trips to our dive sites and<br />

the calm blue world beneath.<br />

By 2005, my Antarctic love<br />

was expressed through seasonally<br />

working on an expedition ship as<br />

a specialist guide and expedition<br />

leader, indeed where I first met Jorn<br />

Henriksen, now Viking’s Director<br />

of Expedition Operations. Jorn and<br />

I were requested to supervise the<br />

in-water safety of a world-record<br />

swimming attempt in Antarctic<br />

waters by the remarkable athlete<br />

and ocean protection advocate,<br />

Lewis Pugh. Watching Lewis as<br />

he meditated prior to his recordbreaking<br />

swims vicariously evoked<br />

my own profound emotions of<br />

connecting with this wildest<br />

of briny places.<br />

Being in Antarctica is a visceral<br />

experience, and so hard to describe<br />

to those who have not (yet) had<br />

a chance to visit. My partner has<br />

patiently listened to my tales of<br />

polar adventures, yet my words<br />

and the media images of the White<br />

Continent cannot truly convey<br />

its majesty. And so, in 2019, we<br />

travelled South together and were<br />

married, in the old Whalers church<br />

in Grytviken, South Georgia. We<br />

continued on to the Antarctic<br />

peninsula, and it was a joy to see<br />

my wife splash<br />

into the sea for<br />

a most brief of<br />

‘polar plunges’.<br />

Once again,<br />

memories of<br />

diving under<br />

the ice fill<br />

my mind.<br />

I am now sitting at my desk<br />

in Cambridge in <strong>2021</strong>, cocooned<br />

in the pandemic-induced<br />

isolation we have experienced<br />

recently. Remotely, I work with<br />

Viking colleagues to prepare our<br />

expedition vessels in readiness for<br />

voyages next year and beyond –<br />

and I am once again reflecting on<br />

cold waters. My wife has found<br />

that swimming in our local rivers<br />

has been her salvation. I am once<br />

again teased for finding the local<br />

waters rather too cold, and yet I<br />

still dream of the White Continent.<br />

“I am an Antarctic diver.”<br />

54 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 55


DESIGN<br />

Come fly<br />

WITH ME<br />

Having combined a love of the natural world with the art of<br />

needle felting, Susan Beal tells us more about her latest<br />

project, sculpting 100 polar birds for Viking expedition ships<br />

This page: An<br />

arctic tern made<br />

using sheep’s<br />

wool and beeswax<br />

I<br />

have done many different<br />

things in my life, but I’m<br />

happiest making beautiful<br />

things with my hands. For the<br />

past eight years I have been making<br />

lifelike bird sculptures from sheep’s<br />

wool and beeswax using the<br />

simple process of needle<br />

felting. It’s like the best<br />

aspects of carving, painting,<br />

crochet and embroidery<br />

rolled into one.<br />

Needle felting is low tech<br />

and peaceful – no noisy machines,<br />

dust or fumes, no expensive, fancy<br />

equipment. My dogs Bodi and<br />

Tulsi, and cats Elfin and Lili, like to<br />

hang out with me while I work. I<br />

can hear the calls and songs of birds<br />

outside while I sculpt, often the<br />

same species that I’m sculpting.<br />

Needle felting involves using a<br />

special needle with tiny barbs along<br />

its length that, when poked into<br />

wool over and over, felt or compact<br />

the fibers. It’s akin to sculpture or<br />

carving, but instead of removing<br />

Why birds? They’re like flying,<br />

singing flowers and they lift my<br />

heart with their beauty<br />

material as with wood or stone,<br />

the wool is compressed and shaped<br />

into the desired form, somewhat<br />

like with clay, but becoming denser<br />

the more it is felted. Think of<br />

what happens with cotton candy<br />

if you squish it…it’s a bit like that.<br />

Detailed markings are made by<br />

adding different coloured wool,<br />

or by applying lightfast ink for<br />

exceptionally subtle markings<br />

and colourations that are difficult<br />

to achieve with felting.<br />

Much of my inspiration comes<br />

from where I live, in the<br />

house I grew up in, on a<br />

farm in Vermont that has<br />

been in my family for four<br />

generations. I make my<br />

birds in the studio where<br />

my father used to paint.<br />

I grew up in a creative family,<br />

surrounded by my father’s oil and<br />

acrylic paintings, my mother’s<br />

quilts, braided rugs, cushions,<br />

and curtains and, later on, gifts of<br />

handspun sweaters, woven blankets<br />

and needlepoint from my two<br />

mothers-in-law.<br />

We always had lots of dogs<br />

and cats, rescued as strays or from<br />

shelters, as well as horses and cows<br />

on the farm. I hated when the<br />

cats, all excellent mousers, hunted<br />

for little animals, most especially<br />

birds. It broke my heart, though I<br />

cherish the experience of rescuing<br />

and caring for the wounded little<br />

creatures, or comforting them as<br />

they died. But all of it gave me a<br />

great love and respect for animals,<br />

both companion and wild, and I<br />

have never lived without them.<br />

I first began needle felting in<br />

2012 when I received a bounty of<br />

wool fleece after my first motherin-law<br />

passed away. Much of it<br />

was hand dyed using vegetables,<br />

herbs, flowers and fungi. Not being<br />

a spinner or weaver like she was,<br />

I wasn’t sure what to do with so<br />

much wool. Then I stumbled across<br />

a book about needle felting and,<br />

intrigued, decided to give it a try. I<br />

ordered a felting needle, grabbed a<br />

handful of brown fleece, and made<br />

a little brown bird – or an ‘LBB’<br />

as ornithologists fondly call them.<br />

And that was that.<br />

I was completely enchanted by<br />

this unique, relatively unknown<br />

art form. I made another bird,<br />

and another. I made birds that<br />

live on our land – chickadees,<br />

wrens, robins, kestrels, orioles<br />

and nuthatches. Eventually, my<br />

daughter suggested I open an Etsy<br />

shop online. On a whim, I did. I<br />

never intended for it to be anything<br />

but a fun way to honour all the<br />

effort my mother-in-law put into<br />

growing, carding and dyeing so<br />

much wool. Why birds? I’m not<br />

sure, exactly, other than that they’re<br />

like flying, singing flowers, and<br />

they lift my heart with their beauty.<br />

The orders trickled in slowly at<br />

first but gradually increased. I made<br />

birds for friends and collectors, and<br />

endangered birds for conservation<br />

groups. Then Viking contacted me<br />

and asked if I would like to make<br />

100 different birds for their new<br />

expedition ships: penguins, petrels,<br />

terns, albatrosses, loons, pelicans,<br />

eagles, kingfishers, and dozens of<br />

others. It’s a dream come true, and<br />

quite an honour. It couldn’t be a<br />

more perfect way to combine my<br />

passion for art, beauty, animals,<br />

nature, and the environment.<br />

flightofheart.weebly.com<br />

Clockwise<br />

from top left:<br />

A collection<br />

of Susan’s<br />

creations; Susan<br />

in her studio;<br />

the tools used to<br />

create Susan’s<br />

sculptures; a wire<br />

frame used in<br />

the process<br />

56 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 57


DESIGN<br />

Natural<br />

Nordic<br />

Chair and coffee table<br />

From a selection at Nest<br />

Embrace the elements this <strong>Spring</strong> with<br />

a mix of wood and natural fibres<br />

Silver sheepskin<br />

Baa Stool, £80<br />

LSA International vase<br />

Very, £65<br />

Serving board<br />

Habitat, £12<br />

Skagerat deck chair<br />

Nest, £625<br />

Textured throw<br />

Amara, £75<br />

Sheepskin stool<br />

Baa Stool, £399<br />

Rattan mirror<br />

George Home, £20<br />

Coffee table<br />

Habitat, £195<br />

Wooden floor lamp<br />

Soho Home, £295<br />

58 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong>


INTERVIEW<br />

INSPIRING PEOPLE<br />

Ghislaine Wood<br />

The curator discusses her exhibition highlights<br />

and her love of Egyptian history<br />

Have you always been keen<br />

on arts and heritage?<br />

Growing up, I wanted to be an<br />

actress, both my parents were<br />

actors and I thought that was a<br />

normal thing to do. When I got<br />

to university, where I studied art<br />

history, I realised I wasn’t really<br />

committed to acting. You need to<br />

live and breath it and have a huge<br />

dose of luck to get anywhere.<br />

How did your museum career<br />

get started?<br />

After university I briefly went to<br />

work in the City, in a management<br />

consultancy firm, but really hated<br />

it. Fortunately, a friend of mine had<br />

a job at the V&A, and encouraged<br />

me to apply and I got my first job<br />

in the newly formed Research<br />

Department. I loved it and stayed at<br />

the V&A for 20 years.<br />

What has been the highlight of<br />

your career to date?<br />

I have been lucky to work on many<br />

exhibitions and projects and to<br />

work with brilliant people. I enjoyed<br />

being involved in the British pavilion<br />

at the Shanghai Expo, if only briefly.<br />

Thomas Heatherwick’s design was<br />

so extraordinary and the project<br />

really reflected British creativity. In<br />

terms of my own exhibitions, I think<br />

it would have to be the Ocean<br />

Liners: Speed and Style show. It was<br />

such fun to put together and I was<br />

extremely proud of the innovative<br />

scenography. Visitors even took<br />

selfies as if they were on deck.<br />

What inspires you, and why?<br />

I’m reading a lot of science fiction<br />

at the moment – probably to do<br />

with the very strange times we<br />

are in. I love escaping into the<br />

extraordinary worlds created by<br />

the best sci-fi writers. Ian M. Banks<br />

and Margaret Atwood of course,<br />

but I’m also reading Cixin Liu’s The<br />

Three Body Problem trilogy, which<br />

is amazing, and terrifying – not a<br />

comforting read it has to be said.<br />

Who would you most like to<br />

have dinner with?<br />

I would love to have dinner with<br />

my mother who is 90 years old<br />

and has advanced Alzheimer’s.<br />

I would love for her to recognise<br />

us and just chat.<br />

What kind of cuisine do you<br />

enjoy and any best dishes?<br />

I went to Georgia on a trip last<br />

year and was blown away by the<br />

cuisine, incredible dishes with fruit<br />

and nuts, particularly walnuts and<br />

pomegranate. It was all absolutely<br />

delicious – particularly dish called<br />

Phkhali, a vegetable dish featuring<br />

walnut paste.<br />

Do you have a travel-related<br />

memory that stands out?<br />

When I was in my early 20s, I<br />

went to Egypt on my own and<br />

remember hiring a horse and a<br />

guide, and riding between the<br />

pyramids at Giza and the stepped<br />

pyramid at Saqqara. The vision of<br />

the pyramid across the desert is<br />

indelibly printed on my memory to<br />

this day. I really felt like I had gone<br />

back in time.<br />

Any top travel destinations?<br />

I have been to Japan a couple<br />

of times, but I would love to<br />

go back and get out of the<br />

big cities and see more of the<br />

beautiful country, particularly<br />

Hokkaido. Skiing in Hokkaido is at<br />

the top of my fantasy travel list!<br />

What are your current projects?<br />

We are working on a really<br />

exciting new exhibition for 2022<br />

that will mark the 100-year<br />

anniversary of the discovery of<br />

the tomb of the Ancient Egyptian<br />

pharaoh, Tutankhamun. The<br />

show will look at the enduring<br />

influence that ancient Egypt has<br />

had on Western world, from art to<br />

design, architecture to fashion. The<br />

Sainsbury Centre has a wonderful<br />

selection of ancient Egyptian pieces<br />

in its collection, so we are very<br />

much looking forward to working<br />

alongside these collections<br />

and to creating an exciting<br />

major new show.<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

above: Ghislaine<br />

Wood; Ghislaine<br />

loves Georgian<br />

cuisine; the<br />

recent Ocean<br />

Liners exhibition<br />

at the V&A<br />

Museum; Walking<br />

hippopotamus,<br />

1880BC, Egypt,<br />

Sainsbury<br />

Centre, UEA<br />

PHOTOS: ©PIERS MACDONALD PHOTOGRAPHY LTD/<br />

SHUTTERSTOCK<br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 59


RIVERS<br />

The<br />

DOURO<br />

The winding river that weaves its way<br />

through sleepy Portuguese villages,<br />

past historic wine cellars and out to<br />

sea at the city of Porto<br />

Left: An aerial<br />

view of the Douro<br />

River meandering<br />

its way through<br />

the countryside<br />

The Douro was named<br />

‘River of Gold’ by<br />

the Romans and the<br />

Phoenicians, who mined<br />

the precious metal in this arid<br />

corner of Portugal and used the<br />

waterway to transport the ore to<br />

the coast. A more romantic theory<br />

as to the origins of the name is<br />

that the river reflects the golden<br />

sunshine that warms the hillsides.<br />

The Douro rises to the northeast<br />

of Madrid, flowing west across<br />

central Spain before creating a<br />

natural border between Spain and<br />

Portugal for 96km, and turning<br />

west at Barca d’Alva, from where<br />

it flows in a series of gentle curves<br />

towards the Atlantic, just beyond<br />

the city of Porto. High in the<br />

hills, sleepy villages are guarded<br />

by ruined castles and beyond the<br />

sheer-sided river valley sprawl<br />

lavish, whitewashed country homes<br />

belonging to port-growing families.<br />

The navigable stretch of the<br />

Douro has been tamed today by<br />

a series of dams and deep locks,<br />

so ships can sail to the Spanish<br />

border. The scenery is some of the<br />

most spectacular on the Iberian<br />

peninsula, the sheer slopes either<br />

side of the river, lush with vines<br />

producing the region’s port grapes.<br />

Portugal has a long association<br />

with Britain and although the<br />

Romans cultivated grapes here<br />

60 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 61


RIVERS<br />

in the first instance, it was the<br />

wealthy British merchants settling<br />

in the city of Porto towards the<br />

end of the 17th century who<br />

began to produce port. In the<br />

early 18th century, the river was<br />

crammed with flat-bottomed rabelo<br />

boats, each one with a single sail,<br />

transporting thousands of barrels<br />

of port downstream from the<br />

country estates to the cellars at Vila<br />

Nova de Gaia, sprawling elegantly<br />

over the steep bank opposite the<br />

city of Porto. You will still see<br />

the occasional rabelo on the river<br />

today but their purpose now is<br />

solely decorative; grapes are now<br />

transported by truck. In 2001,<br />

the entire region was declared a<br />

UNESCO World Heritage Site<br />

in recognition of its beauty and<br />

historic interest. Porto itself is the<br />

second largest city in Portugal.<br />

The famous metal bridge spanning<br />

the Douro, Dom Luís, is strongly<br />

reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower<br />

in Paris in its architecture; and<br />

the designer, Théophile Seyring,<br />

studied under Eiffel.<br />

A highlight of<br />

any Douro voyage is<br />

a day in Salamanca,<br />

Spain’s ‘golden<br />

city’ and university<br />

town. Tucked away in a quiet, rural<br />

corner of Castile-Leon, a couple of<br />

hours’ drive from Vega de Terrón,<br />

the limit of the Douro’s navigable<br />

stretch, the city’s sandstone walls<br />

and spires blaze in the sunshine.<br />

The university was founded<br />

in the 13th century and was<br />

considered one of the finest in<br />

Europe. The old library houses<br />

150,000 ancient volumes so<br />

precious that visitors are only<br />

allowed to peer through glass.<br />

Most of the towns visited along<br />

the Douro are located in the<br />

rolling hills beyond the river valley.<br />

Bustling Lamego is dominated<br />

The scenery is some of the most spectacular<br />

on the Iberian peninsula, the sheer slopes<br />

either side of the river, lush with vines<br />

by the sanctuary of Our Lady of<br />

Remedies, perched on top of a<br />

hill overlooking the town with<br />

ornamental steps cascading<br />

down the wooded hillside. Figueira<br />

de Castelo Rodrigo is a tiny,<br />

12th-century walled village high<br />

in the mountains, surrounded by<br />

olive groves and wild lavender,<br />

while Vila Real is the site of the<br />

magnificent baroque Mateus Palace,<br />

made famous by the Mateus Rosé<br />

wine labels. Lavish interiors aside,<br />

the palace is set in formal gardens<br />

featuring cedar-lined walkways,<br />

sculpted hedges and serene<br />

ornamental ponds.<br />

The narrow river<br />

valley itself is mainly<br />

uninhabited, save the<br />

occasional hamlet<br />

or whitewashed<br />

house overlooking<br />

the vineyards, which is part of the<br />

joy of sailing here. An exception<br />

is sleepy Pinhão, which has one of<br />

the world’s most exquisite railway<br />

stations, adorned with blue-andwhite<br />

azulejos tiles, depicting<br />

colourful scenes from the port<br />

industry in the 1930s and a reminder<br />

of how dramatically life on the river has<br />

changed over just a few decades.<br />

This page,<br />

clockwise, from<br />

top left: Port<br />

wine barrels,<br />

wine cellar of a<br />

winery in Gaia,<br />

Porto; the blue<br />

and white tiles<br />

so synonymous<br />

with Portuguese<br />

architecture; the<br />

colourful city<br />

streets of Porto,<br />

as seen from<br />

across the<br />

River Douro<br />

Opposite:<br />

The enchanting<br />

back streets of<br />

old Salamanca<br />

PHOTOS: © ALAMY; AWL IMAGES<br />

62 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 63


REVIEW<br />

Rediscovering the<br />

Low Countries<br />

Carol and Jeremy Davies-Webb look back at the<br />

highlights of their trip to Holland and Belgium<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/AWL<br />

In April 2018, seven friends<br />

ventured on Viking Baldur<br />

for the Tulips and Windmills<br />

cruise. We are a diverse<br />

group, friends from 40 years ago,<br />

ex-work colleagues from 20 years<br />

ago and newer Viking friends<br />

(yes, we met on a cruise and are<br />

now firm travelling companions).<br />

We are all based in the <strong>UK</strong> and<br />

we had journeyed to most of the<br />

destinations offered but decided<br />

we would go for the adventure,<br />

relaxation and luxury Viking<br />

provides. What an adventure it<br />

proved to be. Here are just a few<br />

of the unforgettable memories...<br />

We all arrived in Amsterdam<br />

on different flights or by train, two<br />

from “the West Country”, one from<br />

“Up North” and four of us directly<br />

to Amsterdam by Eurostar.<br />

We had all visited Amsterdam<br />

on many occasions but tried to<br />

find something new. And we did<br />

– the Amsterdam Observatory<br />

and Sensational Swing, or A’DAM<br />

Lookout, Overhoeksplein, directly<br />

opposite the main railway station<br />

and reached by a free ferry. Flying<br />

free from the building with nothing<br />

underneath you but a sheer<br />

drop of 100m.<br />

Two days later we were in the<br />

town of Hoorn and were taken on<br />

a walk around the lovely town. At<br />

the end of the walk we went to an<br />

apartment where we were hosted<br />

by two delightful young people,<br />

given amazing coffee and cake,<br />

and we all regard this as one of<br />

the highlights of our trip.<br />

Ghent was a real eye-opener<br />

for us. We had heard of it but had<br />

never visited. What an amazing<br />

town, all very accessible and easy to<br />

get around. We also visited Bruges<br />

and took the opportunity to see<br />

Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child,<br />

reputedly the only sculpture by<br />

the artist outside of Italy.<br />

On the 27th April it is King’s<br />

Day, and we joined in with the<br />

celebrations, with the ladies in our<br />

group wearing orange feather boas<br />

(those feathers surfaced for many<br />

weeks after the cruise), the gents<br />

in orange trilbies. Even a café we<br />

visited in Veere gave us orangecoloured<br />

cakes and coffee.<br />

But the pièce de résistance was<br />

our return to Amsterdam. Two<br />

highlights stood out – a visit to the<br />

Hermitage Amsterdam where we<br />

learnt the story of the Night Watch<br />

and then to the Rijksmuseum to<br />

see the painting in all its glory,<br />

and afterwards, a visit to the<br />

renowned Keukenhof gardens for<br />

the spectacular floral displays.<br />

All in all, an amazing cruise, and<br />

the whole Viking experience was<br />

terrific, as always. We loved all the<br />

new experiences along the way and<br />

we would recommend this trip to<br />

anyone, even if they have already<br />

been to The Low Countries.<br />

A 10-day 2022 Tulips & Windmills<br />

round-trip from Amsterdam,<br />

starts from £1,895pp.<br />

This page,<br />

clockwise,<br />

from top left:<br />

Beautiful orchids;<br />

an interesting<br />

daffodil-inspired<br />

installation;<br />

Carol and Jeremy<br />

with friends;<br />

spectacular tulips;<br />

the Sensational<br />

Swing over<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Opposite:<br />

Windmills dot<br />

the landsccape<br />

64 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 65


BOOK CLUB<br />

JOIN OUR<br />

BOOK CLUB<br />

This page:<br />

Florence<br />

Cathedral stands<br />

out above the<br />

rooftops of the<br />

city that Mark<br />

Twain and friends<br />

visited during<br />

their tour<br />

of Europe<br />

Viking<br />

BOOK CLUB<br />

Each month, we invite you to take part in our Book Club.<br />

Read on for a taster of some of the reviews that<br />

readers have sent in recently<br />

www.vikingrivercruises.co.uk/why-viking/community/book-club.html<br />

WE GALLOPED THROUGH THE LOUVRE<br />

Viking guest Stuart Hannabuss looks at Mark Twain’s travel travails<br />

Many of us keep ourselves going<br />

at the moment by dreaming of<br />

future holidays. Perhaps cruises like<br />

the ones we used to have – great<br />

places, lovely people, super nosh.<br />

‘One day soon,’ we say. We have<br />

our memories, check our diaries,<br />

look again at the pictures. Can’t be<br />

narrow-minded if you travel a lot,<br />

American writer Mark Twain said.<br />

He is the guy who wrote kids’<br />

books Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn,<br />

of course. And much else, including<br />

the travelogue The Innocents<br />

Abroad, published in 1869. A<br />

group of Americans came to Europe<br />

to see the sights, crossed the<br />

Med to the Holy Land (they were<br />

‘pilgrims’ after all), and went back<br />

home again. Ever since, ‘innocents<br />

abroad’ has been used to describe<br />

naïve but determined tourists. We<br />

love this in travel books and films<br />

– think Bill Bryson, Tony Hawkes,<br />

Michael Palin, Michael Portillo –<br />

fun, but stuff that makes you think.<br />

Twain does that too.<br />

‘Florence pleased us for a while’,<br />

he tells us. Too many damned<br />

pictures, too much to take in, and<br />

far too many beggars. The guides<br />

speak bad English and everyone<br />

tries to fleece us. And don’t get me<br />

started on having a Turkish bath.<br />

It was ‘worth a kingdom’ to be on<br />

board ship once more for civilized<br />

company and a good clean up.<br />

Once there, we got to<br />

wondering: Notre Dame was<br />

impressive, Venice too, but with<br />

evidence of decay. Why all this<br />

reverence for old things? America<br />

was the New World and, as the<br />

Yankee told King’s Arthur’s court<br />

in another of Twain’s stories, the<br />

American message was about the<br />

future and not the past, technology<br />

and not chivalry. They deplored the<br />

wealth of the church alongside the<br />

poverty on the streets. They gasped<br />

at the majesty of the buildings and<br />

the awesome antiquity of the ruins,<br />

but found the relics disgusting.<br />

Twain’s tone is equivocal, part<br />

burlesque, part critique, which is<br />

why the book stays in print and<br />

speaks to us today. The actual trip<br />

is never quite what the guidebook<br />

promises: it can be worse,<br />

sometimes wonderfully better.<br />

Twain travelled a great deal<br />

throughout his life, usually to<br />

publicise his books. Once safely<br />

home in New York, he reflects<br />

on the whole trip – ‘the grand<br />

pilgrimage is over’. Maybe things<br />

weren’t so bad after all. We were<br />

all tired but we were happy. Hope,<br />

too, we’re not so narrow-minded as<br />

we were before, broadens the mind,<br />

they say. Sustains the dreams, we’ll<br />

probably go again – somewhere<br />

different this time. One day soon.<br />

YOUR BOOK CLUB REVIEWS<br />

THE OCTOBER<br />

MAN<br />

by Ben<br />

Aaronovitch<br />

I enjoy a good<br />

‘Who Dunnit’<br />

and the fact<br />

that the story<br />

was based in<br />

Germany, a<br />

country I have loved cruising in<br />

with Viking, meant I could not wait<br />

to get started. I must confess to<br />

being a little apprehensive when<br />

realising there was a science fiction<br />

twist. However, I found myself<br />

believing in the main characters<br />

of Tobi and Vanessa and it had<br />

an interesting plot to follow. A<br />

light-hearted approach to what can<br />

sometimes be a very dark subject,<br />

the book certainly stretches the<br />

reader’s imagination.<br />

Ed Davies<br />

Aaronovitch writes detective stories<br />

that have a magical twist and if<br />

you have not previously been bitten<br />

by this strange mix, this one is a<br />

good place to start. The novella is<br />

set in the Mosel Valley near Trier<br />

and has an easy style. It combines<br />

humorous and sharp writing with<br />

a genuine feel for the area. The<br />

descriptions place you firmly in the<br />

steep, shaly vineyards as the vines<br />

are starting to ripen and the tale is<br />

a perfect combination of history,<br />

legend, magic and detective story.<br />

Caroline Maddison<br />

10 MINUTES 38<br />

SECONDS IN<br />

THIS STRANGE<br />

WORLD<br />

by Elif Shafak<br />

The tool of<br />

using the time<br />

between death<br />

and brain death,<br />

10 minutes 38<br />

seconds, was an interesting way to<br />

follow Tequila Leila’s life from birth<br />

to the end. She had a tough life but<br />

throughout the whole book there<br />

is a sense of personal strength<br />

told through her friendships and<br />

loyalties to other people. I want to<br />

go to Istanbul now to soak up the<br />

Bazaar, to watch the people going<br />

about their daily lives and breathe<br />

in the air.<br />

Nigel Meredith<br />

Even if you’ve never been to Turkey<br />

you get a real insight into customs<br />

and lifestyle. Religion and tradition<br />

spread their arms wide and then<br />

pull them in, restricting and ruling<br />

the behaviour of the various people<br />

whose lives we merely touch upon<br />

but who create an impression that<br />

lasts much longer than 10 minutes<br />

and 38 seconds.<br />

Brenda Mills<br />

JOURNEYS IN<br />

THE WILD- THE<br />

SECRET LIFE OF<br />

A CAMERAMAN<br />

By Gavin Thurston<br />

Given the<br />

amount of<br />

horror stories<br />

it contains, this<br />

book is strangely<br />

compelling. It is a scary, enthralling,<br />

addictive read. I found it hard to<br />

put down. It is the sort of book<br />

that makes you glad that someone<br />

else has done the travelling. I<br />

love travelling, and I have been<br />

to some wonderful places, but by<br />

Thurston’s standards I am a real<br />

softie. It is clear that Thurston is<br />

not just a skilful observer of animal<br />

behaviour. Over the years he has<br />

amassed some wonderful material<br />

on his fellow humans, and he tells<br />

it all in a highly readable manner.<br />

Caroline Wickham-Jones<br />

This is not a book I would have<br />

usually chosen to read, but I have<br />

loved it. Gavin’s experiences stayed<br />

with me for a while – escaped<br />

octopus in a car, antics with a<br />

witch doctor, overturned jeeps in<br />

Russia, active volcanoes in Hawaii.<br />

He certainly lives life to the full and<br />

has some amazingly close shaves.<br />

Fiona Fletcher<br />

THE OTHER<br />

END OF THE<br />

LINE<br />

By Andrea<br />

Camilleri<br />

<strong>More</strong> than the<br />

usual murder<br />

mystery story,<br />

this book<br />

includes lots of<br />

detail of refugees landing in Sicily.<br />

Various views are expressed, but<br />

Moltalbano expresses sympathy for<br />

the plight of these people fleeing<br />

war and poverty, which perhaps<br />

echoes Camilleri’s viewpoint and<br />

brings the remit of the novel to a<br />

current and very real human crisis.<br />

Robin Wood<br />

THE THURSDAY<br />

MURDER CLUB<br />

By Richard Osman<br />

I couldn’t wait to<br />

start this book<br />

and I wasn’t<br />

disappointed. It<br />

was like having<br />

a gossip with a<br />

friend. The wit<br />

throughout was tangible and the<br />

plot moves on so fast with so many<br />

twists and turns that you want to<br />

keep turning the pages for more.<br />

An absolute delight of a book.<br />

Bette Haley<br />

This was such an enjoyable book.<br />

Completely quintessentially English<br />

with its gentle humour and great<br />

characterisations. Some of the<br />

characters seemed so familiar. I<br />

am very much looking forward<br />

to a second book.<br />

Andre Du Casse<br />

66 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 67


COLUMN<br />

BACK ON BOARD<br />

with Karine<br />

Executive Vice President of Viking, Karine Hagen, recalls<br />

her recent time on board Viking Star and Viking Jupiter<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

above: Karine<br />

catching up<br />

with the crew of<br />

Viking Jupiter;<br />

Karine serving<br />

Norwegian dish<br />

pølse og lompe<br />

In February, I was fortunate<br />

to bring Finse and Charlie with<br />

me on board Viking Star and<br />

Viking Jupiter for a ten-day<br />

work trip in Kristiansand, where<br />

two of our six ocean vessels were<br />

in warm layup awaiting the restart<br />

of operations. After almost a year<br />

of COVID confinement, I admit<br />

I was secretly looking forward<br />

to delicious prepared meals, and<br />

having my bed properly made<br />

by someone else, but I quickly<br />

discovered that what I had<br />

missed more, much more, than<br />

the luxury of service, or the<br />

comfort of the ships, was human<br />

contact. Being on board, protected<br />

by our health protocol of daily,<br />

simple, non-invasive saliva<br />

PCR testing, gave me a sense<br />

of freedom I had not felt on land<br />

for an entire year.<br />

While our ships have been in<br />

warm layup, our crew has been<br />

busy, keeping them shipshape<br />

and ready to restart at short<br />

notice. Having ships on standby<br />

hopefully only happens once in<br />

their lifetime (and once in ours!),<br />

and as hard as this year has been<br />

on the world, we must try to find<br />

some silver linings.<br />

A silver lining for me – being on<br />

board – was getting to know some<br />

of our crew much better. Heartfelt<br />

conversations about their families,<br />

lives and homes, their childhoods<br />

and growing up in different<br />

parts of the world, allowed<br />

my mind to travel the world,<br />

without moving my body an<br />

inch.<br />

I travelled with video<br />

technician Mahesh, to his<br />

family’s modest mango farm<br />

PHOTOS: © VIKING<br />

in the village of Madhavamala, in<br />

southern India, where his bride is<br />

waiting to meet him for the first<br />

time when he returns home next<br />

month.<br />

He shared with me pictures<br />

of his new family home, and<br />

the Hindu housewarming ritual<br />

of having a cow be the first to<br />

enter the home, ideally “doing its<br />

business inside” as Mahesh said<br />

politely, to bring good luck to the<br />

marriage. Hotel manager Sujith<br />

joined our conversation and said<br />

that in his home town in India, the<br />

cow has to enter backwards for<br />

the luck to really last!<br />

Within minutes of my mind in<br />

southern India, I was transported<br />

to the tropical island of Carabo in<br />

the Philippines, talking with Hilda<br />

about her childhood growing up<br />

on this tiny exotic island with no<br />

electricity, apart from the night<br />

light from the moon and the<br />

fireflies; where their toys were<br />

found in nature; and where she<br />

would hang off the outrigger<br />

on the island canoe – used to<br />

go grocery shopping on the<br />

neighbouring, larger island<br />

– to learn how to swim in the<br />

crystal-clear waters, with an<br />

empty gallon and old rope tied<br />

around her waist as a life vest.<br />

A childhood that was bereft of<br />

material surplus, but absolute<br />

paradise to Hilda and all of us<br />

listening, and a place that is now<br />

top of my travel bucket list after<br />

seeing her eyes shine with delight<br />

in describing her privileged<br />

upbringing and recalling stories<br />

from her childrhood. I wasn’t<br />

actually travelling anywhere<br />

physically but in a matter of<br />

minutes my mind had travelled<br />

around the world.<br />

To fear another person for no<br />

reason, but the air between us,<br />

is a strange mindset we have<br />

all had to live with throughout<br />

the duration of this pandemic.<br />

And I think it has become clear<br />

to many of us, after having<br />

been by ourselves for such a<br />

long time,that human contact is<br />

Clockwise,<br />

from top left:<br />

Celebrating<br />

Valentine’s Day<br />

with Viking<br />

umbrellas on<br />

Viking Star;<br />

Finse and Charlie<br />

make some new<br />

friends; Hilda<br />

encounters snow<br />

for the first time<br />

and tries on<br />

expedition gear;<br />

Carabo Island, in<br />

the Philippines<br />

68 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 69


MAGIC<br />

of the<br />

GREAT LAKES<br />

LAKES<br />

Oonagh Turner explores the natural beauty of the chain of<br />

lakes that lie between the USA and Canada<br />

Like great inland seas, these<br />

bodies of fresh water are<br />

fringed by quaint lakeside<br />

villages, thick woodland,<br />

lighthouse-dotted beaches and<br />

mighty cities. Providing a natural<br />

border between Canada and the<br />

US, the Great Lakes are a series<br />

of interconnected masses of water<br />

that flow from Lake Superior. The<br />

journey starts life as precipitation,<br />

filling up the great scars in the<br />

north American landscape that were<br />

left by receding glaciers. The water<br />

passes the sleepy Canadian villages<br />

of Lake Huron, laps the shores of<br />

isolated islands, meanders down<br />

and criss-crosses the border to<br />

America where it provides a scenic<br />

backdrop for electric cities like<br />

Chicago and Detroit. The water<br />

flows into Lake Erie, the shallowest<br />

of the Great Lakes, before it takes<br />

a plunge over the Niagara Falls to<br />

reach its final lake – Lake Ontario.<br />

The lakes are a natural spectacle and<br />

together encapsulate the essence of<br />

American and Canadian culture.<br />

LAND OF ADVENTURE<br />

On Lake Superior, the northern<br />

shores are peppered with the<br />

expansive national parks of Canada<br />

– Lake Superior Provincial Park,<br />

Pukaskwa National Park – dense<br />

forests that look out over rocky<br />

shores and rolling hills that cater<br />

to keen hikers. The largest of<br />

the lake’s islands is Isle Royale,<br />

home to its own isolated bays and<br />

lakes offering kayaking and scuba<br />

diving opportunities. At Thunder<br />

Bay, keen adventurers can try out<br />

the trails of the Sleeping Giant<br />

Provincial Park, with its sweeping<br />

vistas and towering granite cliffs.<br />

Elsewhere, on the northern<br />

shores of Lake Huron, the water<br />

is sheltered by the land that juts<br />

in and forms Georgian Bay. This<br />

area of land - the Bruce Peninsula<br />

- divides Georgian Bay from the<br />

rest of Lake Huron and is home to<br />

Flowerpot Island – famous for its<br />

bizarre sea stack rock formations<br />

– pillars of limestone shaped by<br />

years of erosion from the elements.<br />

PHOTOS: © ALAMY<br />

Known for its windswept pines,<br />

plentiful fishing and endless<br />

beaches, the summer months are<br />

popular with tourists keen for a<br />

taste of lakeside life out on the<br />

bay. The north of Huron quietens<br />

around September, when the<br />

tourists have left but the water is<br />

still warm enough for kayaking<br />

out among the bay’s 32 historic<br />

lighthouses and 30,000 islands.<br />

Visitors take advantage of the bay’s<br />

aquatic highway and access the<br />

region’s top attractions by boat,<br />

or visit the Fathom Five National<br />

Marine Park – the first park of<br />

its kind in Canada which offers<br />

visitors the opportunity to see 22<br />

underwater shipwrecks, either by<br />

diving or on a glass-bottomed boat.<br />

On Mackinac Island, in Lake<br />

Huron’s US side, a charming<br />

island awaits, known as a haven<br />

for cyclists as vehicles are banned.<br />

Visitors might want to opt for<br />

horse-drawn carriage for an historic<br />

discovery, visiting sites like the<br />

Grand Hotel – a Victorian-era<br />

building with the world’s largest<br />

front porch.<br />

NIAGARA FALLS<br />

Adventure-seekers might also wish<br />

to head for where the water passes<br />

from Lake Erie and funnels into<br />

Lake Ontario, straddling US and<br />

Canadian territory and flowing<br />

under the Rainbow Bridge. After<br />

its lengthy journey, it’s here where<br />

the water rushes and thunders over<br />

three iconic natural waterfalls. The<br />

most spectacular and famous of the<br />

three is Horseshoe Falls, so named<br />

for its rounded formation. The<br />

movement of water and its sheer<br />

power creates a spellbinding mist<br />

that rises and soaks the smiling<br />

faces of every tourist who visits.<br />

Holiday makers can take elevators<br />

to a lower vantage point behind<br />

the falls for a real feel of the falls’<br />

force, with the added option to<br />

board a boat for a closer look.<br />

The dramatic waterfalls marks the<br />

water’s final flurry before it narrows<br />

to all but disappear along the<br />

St. Lawrence River and out to sea.<br />

This page: Fall<br />

foliage on the<br />

north shore of<br />

Lake Superior<br />

70 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong> SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 71


LAKES<br />

Clockwise, from top left:<br />

The ethereal beauty of Lake<br />

Superior; a mesmerising cityscape<br />

on the shores of Lake Ontario; sunset<br />

over Lake Michigan; wild grasses on<br />

the edges of Lake Michigan; the view<br />

of the lakes, as seen from space; a<br />

lighthouse on Lake Erie; Chicago’s<br />

skyscrapers towering over the city;<br />

the clear waters of Lake Superior<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ ALAMY<br />

CITY BUZZ<br />

On Lake Michigan, the bustling<br />

cities that cling to the water’s edge<br />

are the peak attractions and feel a<br />

million miles away from the silent<br />

and hushed shores of Canada.<br />

Chicago is famed for its high-flying<br />

architecture, like the stratospheric<br />

glass-floored Willis Tower, or the<br />

neo-Gothic skyscraper Tribune<br />

Tower, while on street level, wind<br />

tunnels through the streets give it<br />

its affectionate name – The Windy<br />

City. Top chefs and street food<br />

vendors alike put this city on the<br />

foodie map, and every year the city<br />

comes to life with rollicking music<br />

festivals, with thousands making<br />

their way to Chicago especially for<br />

the occasion.<br />

Milwaukee, also on Lake<br />

Michigan, offers much to discover<br />

but is often overlooked in favour of<br />

the dazzling lights of neighbouring<br />

Chicago. Settled by the Germans<br />

in the 19th century, it is to this day<br />

known for its beer-making. It also<br />

plays host to a plethora of museums<br />

and galleris, with state-of-the-art<br />

architectural landmarks like the<br />

Milwaukee Art Museum, and the<br />

Harley-Davidson Museum. Come<br />

evening time, walk the city streets<br />

and you’ll discover a throng of<br />

stylish restaurants.<br />

At Sarnia, Lake Huron’s water<br />

flows through a small gap of land<br />

and past Detroit to make its way<br />

into Lake Erie. Another electric<br />

city, Detroit attracts with its arts<br />

scene and boutiqe, hipster cafes,<br />

galleries and chocolate shops.<br />

Art Deco skyscrapers punctuate<br />

the skyline and at night, sultry<br />

jazz clubs beckon as music floats<br />

down the city streets.<br />

On Lake Ontario, Toronto hugs<br />

the shoreline. A Canadian capital,<br />

the city’s multiculturalism manifests<br />

in its foods, languages, night life<br />

and arts scene, and a spectacular<br />

200 cultures are represented here.<br />

Toronto’s CN Tower is one of<br />

the city’s most iconic structures,<br />

but there are plenty of others to<br />

discover. All the while, the water<br />

of the Great Lakes provides a<br />

mighty backdrop, lazily flowing<br />

on its way out to sea.<br />

An 8-day 2022 Great Lakes<br />

<strong>Explore</strong>r trip from Milwaukee to<br />

Thunder Bay starts from £5,795pp.<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

top right: Niagra<br />

Falls; views<br />

from the Aula,<br />

the stunning<br />

panoramic al<br />

fresco auditorium;<br />

a map detailing<br />

the geographical<br />

location of each<br />

lake, and the<br />

US-Canada border<br />

72 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />

SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 73


CITY GUIDE<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; ALAMY<br />

Toronto and<br />

On the western<br />

fringes of Lake<br />

Ontario sits<br />

bustling Toronto,<br />

a multicultural<br />

city where more than 200 cultures<br />

are represented in the city streets.<br />

With residents having roots in<br />

all corners of the globe, world<br />

foods, cultures and customs come<br />

together seamlessly to make the<br />

city what it is. Toronto’s arts scene<br />

is unrivalled, with a bountiful array<br />

of museums, theatres and galleries<br />

like the Art Gallery of Ontario<br />

which features more than 95,000<br />

works, and the shard-like structure<br />

of the Royal Ontario Museum,<br />

which unveils a fascinating history<br />

of Canada and beyond. Elsewhere,<br />

architecture dazzles, with old red<br />

brick juxtaposing against glass,<br />

and King Street West next in the<br />

pipeline with Frank Gehry designs<br />

for twisting skyscrapers extending<br />

up to 289 metres in the sky. Come<br />

evening time, the sun sets and casts<br />

a pink glow across the lake and<br />

twinkling city lights flicker on and<br />

set the stage for its nightlife.<br />

Don’t miss<br />

• Graffiti Alley, south of Queen<br />

Street and west of Spadina, features<br />

seven blocks of vibrant outdoor art.<br />

• Caribana is the largest single-day<br />

parade in North America. With<br />

a route of 3.6km, the festival is a<br />

day-long celebration of Caribbean<br />

culture and heritage in Canada<br />

• Toronto’s CN Tower is one of<br />

the city’s most iconic structures<br />

and offers the best views over the<br />

surrounding landscape. Head up<br />

for sunset and watch as the whole<br />

city bathes in a golden orange hue.<br />

• Perched east of Downtown,<br />

the Distillery District is a<br />

historic landmark and energetic<br />

neighbourhood that once housed<br />

a whisky distillery and today is<br />

visited for its hip bars, boutiques<br />

and outdoor galleries.<br />

Fast facts<br />

Toronto is extremely multicultural,<br />

with a Little Italy, Little Portugal<br />

and Chinatown. All areas are<br />

marked with dual-language street<br />

signs written in both English and a<br />

language other than French.<br />

Canada’s largest city is known for its<br />

cosmopolitan charm, varied arts scene<br />

splendid foodie offering<br />

• There are over 8,000 restaurants<br />

in the city ofToronto, meaning it<br />

would take you some 22 years to<br />

try them all if you tried a new<br />

one every night.<br />

• There are an estimated 10 million<br />

trees in the city's public parks,<br />

streets and squares, from maples to<br />

backyard oaks.<br />

INSIDER TIPS<br />

<strong>Explore</strong> the arts<br />

Discover the bohemian<br />

neighbourhood of<br />

Kensington Market,<br />

where Victorian<br />

buildings house boutique<br />

shops and arts spaces.<br />

Foodie favourite<br />

Toronto’s rich and diverse<br />

food scene is yours<br />

for the eating. Head<br />

downtown to the<br />

St. Lawrence Market<br />

to sample traditional<br />

Canadian dishes.<br />

Above: The<br />

Toronto skyline<br />

is dominated by<br />

the CN Tower, a<br />

communications<br />

and observation<br />

tower<br />

74 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong>


Welcome to<br />

a better world<br />

Nova New Opportunities<br />

is proud to partner with<br />

Viking, a supporter of<br />

our community work<br />

in London<br />

Since 1983, Nova has been positively impacting people’s<br />

lives. On the grassroots level, we offer adult education and<br />

advice for people to find new opportunities in life and a<br />

family programme with fantastic experiences for children,<br />

parents and carers. In parallel we run a series of events<br />

that bring people together across boundaries to build<br />

connections and learn about and from one another.<br />

Our mission is to build a more inclusive and socially<br />

cohesive society and a better world for all.<br />

We would love for you to join our journey - there are<br />

numerous ways that you can support our growing<br />

portfolio of work.<br />

novanew.org.uk<br />

Please get in touch to<br />

explore the possibilities<br />

mike.volpe@novanew.org.uk


Exploring the World in Comfort... from Home<br />

In addition to the daily livestream sessions and messages from crew and<br />

guests, you can also find an extensive library of enriching content—including<br />

short documentaries, reading lists, filmographies, classical music concerts,<br />

destination-inspired recipes from The Kitchen Table and much more.<br />

Previous Livestreams<br />

Our Viking Family<br />

Destination Insights<br />

Viking Journeys<br />

The Viking World<br />

Cultural Partners<br />

Streaming Live every day at 7pm<br />

Or watch previous livestream videos and on demand programming anytime.<br />

<strong>Explore</strong> our new online destination and plan your next in-home journey.<br />

SEE MORE AT VIKING.TV<br />

Ad Viking TV.indd 1 23/03/<strong>2021</strong> 09:37

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