Explore More UK - Spring 2021
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EXPLORE more<br />
See more of the world with Viking / <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> £3.95<br />
SPIRITUAL VOYAGE<br />
Natural beauty and heritage in Japan<br />
READERS’<br />
EDITION<br />
• GUEST REVIEWS<br />
• HOME COOKING<br />
• BOOK CLUB<br />
OUTDOOR<br />
LIVING<br />
Discover the design<br />
behind the onboard<br />
exterior living spaces
Embark on the ultimate adventure<br />
to the Arctic or Antarctica<br />
Discover the true Arctic on a journey to the top of the world, where polar bears reign<br />
and blue ice floats serenely on the horizon. Or explore Antarctica, the Last Continent,<br />
that is covered in ice and teeming with penguins, seals and whales.<br />
Our new expedition journeys Arctic Adventure and Antarctic <strong>Explore</strong>r reveal a<br />
breathtaking view of the planet in its purest state, and take you to pristine landscapes<br />
to see wildlife in its natural habitat.<br />
To allow you to best explore these unrivalled destinations, we have assembled a<br />
world-class expedition team to lead you on engaging shore landings, and esteemed<br />
scientific partnerships to develop enriching onboard programmes.<br />
The expedition ship perfected, Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris are home to just 378<br />
guests, and build on our legacy of exploration, with many industry firsts. Availability is<br />
limited and we are now taking bookings for our 2022 voyages. Join us on the ultimate<br />
adventure aboard a ship that offers the ultimate in comfort.<br />
Find out more about our extraordinary expedition ships and our<br />
equally extraordinary journeys to the Arctic, Antarctica and the<br />
Great Lakes. Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk
WELCOME<br />
Welcome to our <strong>Spring</strong> edition of <strong>Explore</strong> <strong>More</strong><br />
To celebrate a new season, and to mark the start of an exciting new chapter as we gear up for<br />
travelling once again, we are delighted to bring you a new issue in which you – our guests<br />
and readers – are centre stage.<br />
In this special reader edition, we have gathered reviews from guests who have travelled with<br />
us to regions all over the world. We have loved reading about your travel experiences, learning<br />
what your highlights have been, and gaining an insight into a few of the things you are most<br />
looking forward to when it comes to future trips. We have also enjoyed seeing photographs of<br />
the recipes you have cooked up, inspired by your travels, and we have loved your thoughtful<br />
book reviews. Thank you so much for all your contributions!<br />
For those of you dreaming of new adventures, we have rounded up ten of our favourite<br />
sights to see in Egypt, and we take a look at the history and geography of the Douro River as<br />
it winds its way across Spain and Portugal. For those of you at home, Paul Hervey-Brookes has<br />
plenty of gardening advice, and we find out what Opera Holland Park is planning this summer.<br />
Above all, we hope that this issue finds you well, and we very much look forward to<br />
spending time with you all on board again soon.<br />
With best wishes,<br />
Managing Director, Viking <strong>UK</strong><br />
Tweet us:<br />
@VikingCruises<br />
Like us:<br />
facebook.com/VikingCruises<strong>UK</strong><br />
Follow us:<br />
instagram.com/vikingcruises<br />
<br />
Email us:<br />
uk-marketing@vikingcruises.com<br />
Find out more<br />
about the<br />
Viking <strong>Explore</strong>r<br />
Society<br />
on our website<br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 3
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Contents<br />
IN THIS ISSUE...<br />
EXPLORE more<br />
See more of the world with Viking / <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> £3.95<br />
SPIRITUAL VOYAGE<br />
Natural beauty and heritage in Japan<br />
READERS’<br />
EDITION<br />
• GUEST REVIEWS<br />
• HOME COOKING<br />
• BOOK CLUB<br />
14 TOP 10 EGYPT Highlights from the ancient world<br />
18 A TASTE OF SALAMANCA Kay Wilkie reports back<br />
from her first visit to the ancient university city<br />
24 ON DECK Exploring the outdoor spaces on Viking ships<br />
32 ALASKAN ADVENTURE Viking guests Sheila and Ed<br />
Davies discover the majestic landscapes of Alaska and Canada<br />
70<br />
FEATURES<br />
10 VENICE TO ATHENS Travelling friends Val Hills and<br />
Ann Gregory reminisce about their Adriatic voyage<br />
20 AMAZING ASIA Lindsay and Fiona Robinson share<br />
their experience of travelling from Bangkok to Tokyo<br />
30 IN THE GARDEN Award-winning garden designer, Paul<br />
Hervey-Brookes, marks a new season with historical anecdotes<br />
36 A CULINARY JOURNEY Delectable dishes inspired<br />
by Viking’s voyages across the world<br />
13<br />
REGULARS<br />
6 VIKING NEWS The latest news and events as well as an<br />
interview with Lizze Cho, CEO of London-based charity Nova<br />
13 CITY GUIDE: ATHENS Greece’s capital is one for the<br />
bucket list, blending urban cool with ancient spectacles<br />
23 CITY GUIDE: TOKYO Futuristic skyscrapers and<br />
ancient temples, the city of Tokyo fuses old and new<br />
40 SPRING FLING Bright colours and fun accessories<br />
to bring your wardrobe to life this season<br />
OUTDOOR<br />
LIVING<br />
Discover the design<br />
behind the onboard<br />
exterior living spaces<br />
44 NIGHT AT THE OPERA We find out more about<br />
the new outdoor setting at Opera Holland Park<br />
41 INSPIRING PEOPLE The composer Debbie Wiseman<br />
discusses her wide-ranging musical career<br />
66 VIKING BOOK CLUB Readers review a selection<br />
of novels to accompany you on your next adventure<br />
Cover: Mount Fuji, in Japan, is<br />
framed by overhanging branches<br />
60 DISCOVERING THE DOURO An exploration of the<br />
river that weaves its way through Portuguese countryside<br />
70 GREAT LAKES EXPLORED The secrets of the<br />
Great Lakes that border Canada and the US<br />
54 MY ANTARCTIC Dr. Damon Stanwell-Smith reflects<br />
on his connection to this icy world<br />
56 COME FLY WITH ME Artist Susan Beal tells us about<br />
her latest project, sculpting 100 polar birds out of felt<br />
68 KARINE’S COLUMN Executive Vice President Karine<br />
Hagen shares her experiences of being back on board<br />
74 CITY GUIDE: TORONTO An in depth look at Canada’s<br />
largest city, known for its cosmopolitanism and arts<br />
4 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 5
NEWS<br />
Viking NEWS<br />
A round-up of the latest travel news and events from the world of Viking<br />
BEST IN SHOW<br />
WE WERE THRILLED TO BE NAMED RIVER CRUISE LINE OF THE YEAR IN THE 2020 FOOD AND TRAVEL<br />
MAGAZINE READER AWARDS RECENTLY. THE WINNERS WERE ANNOUNCED AT A VIRTUAL CEREMONY EARLIER<br />
THIS YEAR AND WE ARE VERY GRATEFUL TO ALL THOSE WHO VOTED FOR US, THANK YOU!<br />
“OUR READERS KNOW THEIR STUFF WHEN IT COMES TO CRUISES, SO TO CROWN VIKING THE CHAMPION<br />
IN THIS CATEGORY FOR FIVE YEARS IN A ROW IS A TRUE MARK OF EXCELLENCE,” SAID THE JUDGES.<br />
THE LONELINESS<br />
OF THE SOUL<br />
We are excited to announce<br />
that the Royal Academy will<br />
be re-opening to the public<br />
on 18th May, meaning<br />
visitors will have the chance<br />
to view the Viking-sponsored<br />
Tracey Emin/Edvard Munch:<br />
The Loneliness of the Soul<br />
exhibition in person, after it<br />
was extended until 1st August.<br />
The exhibition features<br />
more than 25 of Emin’s<br />
works including paintings,<br />
some of which are on display<br />
for the first time, as well as<br />
neons and sculptures. These<br />
works, which explore the<br />
loneliness of the soul, have<br />
been chosen by Emin to<br />
sit alongside a carefully<br />
considered selection of 18<br />
oils and watercolours drawn<br />
from MUNCH’s rich collection<br />
and archives in Oslo, Norway.<br />
NILE NEWS<br />
Viking Aton, a new state-of-the-art river vessel, will be the latest addition<br />
to Viking’s Egypt fleet. Inspired by the design of the award-winning<br />
Viking Longships, and built specifically to navigate the Nile, Viking Aton<br />
is scheduled to debut in September 2022, sailing on the popular<br />
Pharaohs & Pyramids itinerary.<br />
Hosting 82 guests in 41 staterooms, Viking Aton will join its sister ships<br />
Viking Osiris and Viking Ra in Egypt, where Viking is the first and only<br />
Western company to build, own and operate ships on the Nile.<br />
“Egypt remains a top destination for many of our guests who are<br />
inspired to discover the rich history and beauty of the region,” said<br />
Torstein Hagen, Chairman of Viking. “The addition of Viking Aton is<br />
a reflection of our continued investment in Egypt; we look forward<br />
to introducing the country’s cultural treasures to even more Viking<br />
guests in the future.”<br />
SUMMER SHOWTIME<br />
RHS Hampton Court Palace challenges and there’ll be a brand<br />
Garden Festival is set to return new RHS Flower Market.<br />
this summer, after the Royal<br />
“After months of planning<br />
Horticultural Society confirmed it and uncertainty we can’t wait<br />
will take place 5 – 11 July. We are to return to what we do best,<br />
delighted that Viking will continue putting on our famous RHS<br />
its long-standing relationship with Flower Shows for all to enjoy,”<br />
the RHS, and will be the headline said Helena Pettit, RHS Director<br />
sponsor of this year’s event. of Gardens and Shows.<br />
Visitors to the shows will<br />
“We have seen a huge increase<br />
be able to discover innovative in people taking up gardening<br />
gardens and fantastic florals and growing in the last year.<br />
alongside a shopper’s paradise Bringing the horticultural world<br />
of plants, tools, sundries and together again will be significant<br />
accessories to decorate all for the industry and we are<br />
gardens, big or small, plus continuing to plan for different<br />
plenty of activities, talks<br />
scenarios to ensure we can open<br />
and demonstrations.<br />
our gates safely and implement<br />
Show gardens will shine a light social distancing measures if<br />
on key issues and environmental still necessary.”<br />
VIKING VENUS<br />
GODMOTHER<br />
We are pleased to announce that<br />
British journalist and broadcaster Anne<br />
Diamond will be the godmother of<br />
Viking’s seventh ocean ship, Viking<br />
Venus, due to debut this spring.<br />
Anne is well known for her career in<br />
television that has spanned more than<br />
40 years, as well as her pioneering cot<br />
death campaign, following the death<br />
of her own son Sebastian.<br />
Over the last year, Anne has been a<br />
key figure on Viking’s award-winning<br />
enrichment channel, Viking.TV.<br />
“Back in March 2020, at the start<br />
of the global lockdown, I rang my<br />
good friend Karine to ask if there was<br />
anything I could do,” recalls Anne.<br />
“Never did I think it might lead to such<br />
a fascinating journey. But exhilarating<br />
journeys are what Viking is all about!”<br />
“We are delighted and honoured<br />
to have Anne serve as the godmother<br />
of Viking Venus,” said Karine Hagen,<br />
Executive Vice President of Viking.<br />
“Since the day we paused<br />
operations, Anne immediately<br />
volunteered to help our guests and<br />
crew manage through this period of<br />
uncertainty and became the face of<br />
Viking.TV on her weekly Thursday<br />
livestreams, brightening the days of<br />
nearly two million viewers. There is no<br />
one more deserving to become the<br />
godmother of Viking Venus.”<br />
6 VIKING.COM | SPRING 2O21<br />
SPRING 2O21 | VIKING.COM 7
NEWS<br />
VIKING.TV<br />
<strong>UK</strong> CRUISES RESTART<br />
HAVING BEEN THE FIRST CRUISE TO SUSPEND OPERATIONS AT THE<br />
BEGINNING OF THE PANDEMIC, VIKING WILL RESTART OPERATIONS<br />
IN THE <strong>UK</strong> IN MAY, WITH THREE SPECIAL SAILINGS ALONG THE COAST<br />
OF ENGLAND. AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY FOR <strong>UK</strong> RESIDENTS, THE<br />
NEW EIGHT-DAY ITINERARY – ENGLAND'S SCENIC SHORES – WILL BE A<br />
ROUNDTRIP FROM PORTSMOUTH. GUESTS WILL BE AMONG THE FIRST<br />
TO SAIL ON BOARD VIKING'S NEWEST OCEAN SHIP, VIKING VENUS.<br />
Earlier this year, in March, our online experience programmes focused on the British Isles. In May,<br />
channel, Viking.TV, celebrated its first birthday. With we’ll take a closer look at the Caribbean region for<br />
livestream shows every day, as well as an extensive a week, and we’ll also be appreciating all things<br />
library of on-demand programming, including short Portuguese. Each of these topics and areas will be<br />
documentaries, interviews, lectures and musical explored in more depth, with shows touching on<br />
performances, viewers can continue to explore the history, culture, cuisine and traditions, as well as a<br />
world with Viking from the comfort of home. range of inspiring guests with fascinating life stories.<br />
Coming up in April, there will be a week of<br />
Visit Viking.TV to discover a wide variety of<br />
art-related content, as well as a week of<br />
online content to inspire a sense of wanderlust.<br />
We love hearing from you, so please do send your comments and suggestions to uk-marketing@viking.com<br />
CHARITY SPOTLIGHT<br />
We are proud to be supporting the London-based charity<br />
Nova, which works with individuals, communities and<br />
organisations looking to achieve their potential and<br />
seeking a better future for themselves and the wider<br />
society. CEO, Lizzie Cho, gave us some<br />
more insight into their work:<br />
What do you hope to accomplish<br />
at Nova?<br />
Our work at Nova is based on the three<br />
pillars of social cohesion – social mobility,<br />
social inclusion and social capital. As CEO of<br />
Nova, my ambition is to create a blueprint<br />
for a way of working that supports other<br />
organisations and individuals to connect<br />
across boundaries for the collective good and creating pathways for all<br />
people, irrespective of background.<br />
Throughout the Covid pandemic we have been busy delivering laptops,<br />
food, vitamin D tablets, SIM cards and activity packs and over 1,000 hours<br />
of 1-1 support. If we can inspire as many people as possible to change<br />
the little bit of the world around them through our work, I’ll be happy!<br />
What do you love most about your job?<br />
There is a lot I love about my job so it’s hard to pick out what I most love!<br />
The grassroots work is incredibly rewarding – seeing people<br />
improving their lives through education and being supported towards<br />
employment. Our reach work is also immensely satisfying – joining<br />
up dots across business, government and civil society for wide-scale<br />
societal improvements.<br />
It’s incredible working with a fantastic range of partners from Imperial<br />
College to the Natural History Museum to The Jo Cox Foundation and<br />
Viking, whose values match our own and by working together we<br />
profoundly improve experiences and outcomes across the board.<br />
What is on the horizon for Nova this year?<br />
We have been busy launching a podcast and our Visionaries Giving<br />
Scheme, as well as expanding our work with families and our events<br />
programme – our second TEDx Ladbroke Grove main stage event<br />
is in May <strong>2021</strong>.<br />
This year we aim to reach over 2,500 people and connect with more<br />
partners. We’ll be offering nearly 6,000 hours of dedicated 1-1 support,<br />
300+ activities for children and families (greatly enhanced through<br />
our partnership with Vking), 600 adult learning sessions through our<br />
grassroots work and around 40 events via our reach work.<br />
For more information, and to donate, please visit novanew.org.uk<br />
We receive some amazing feedback,<br />
which acts as a kind of rocket fuel<br />
for us. Here are some recent quotes:<br />
“They stopped me going over the edge when<br />
I was at my lowest.”<br />
"Nova has really helped to keep our<br />
spirits up in these unprecedented times.<br />
They have been extremely helpful in<br />
my time of need.”<br />
“Thank you for providing a safe place for my<br />
family that has helped us through the lockdown.”<br />
“All services and support we receive<br />
is amazing, and a unique opportunity<br />
for our children.”<br />
“To know there is somewhere like Nova when<br />
you are going through a problem…it is literally<br />
an oasis in the desert. It’s about someone giving<br />
up their time and being concerned about your<br />
plight. It’s very hard to put into words. They go<br />
the extra mile.“<br />
“I learned so many<br />
things about<br />
myself by coming<br />
to Nova classes.<br />
I have seen the<br />
impact on my<br />
mental health<br />
and speaking<br />
ability, and<br />
communication<br />
skills."<br />
8 VIKING.COM | SPRING 2O21<br />
SPRING 2O21 | VIKING.COM 9
REVIEW<br />
Time travel<br />
Friends Val Hills and Ann Gregory reminisce about<br />
the historical highlights of their Adriatic voyage<br />
The opportunity for<br />
two ladies of a certain<br />
age to be a part of<br />
the maiden voyage<br />
of Viking Sun was too good to<br />
miss and she didn’t disappoint!<br />
We had chosen this journey as it<br />
takes us through history – from<br />
the Venetians to the Romans<br />
and ancient Greece.<br />
The ship was glorious: sleek and<br />
modern, with a hint of Scandi. Our<br />
stateroom would have to wait – we<br />
were off to explore Venice, to plan<br />
our next day, taking the waterbus<br />
shuttle arranged by Viking.<br />
A whole day in Venice to look<br />
forward to! On the way back from<br />
our recce, we noticed how elegant<br />
the ship looked from the water and<br />
we couldn’t wait to explore her.<br />
Our stateroom was near<br />
Mamsen’s and this quickly became<br />
our favourite place for breakfast<br />
– the pancakes were divine – and<br />
the adjacent <strong>Explore</strong>rs’ Lounge is<br />
a wonderfully stylish and sociable<br />
space, ideal for enjoying views.<br />
Next day, the water bus to<br />
St. Mark’s Square worked a treat,<br />
with Viking staff and their big<br />
red brollies very visible, to help<br />
us find our way. We began with<br />
the included tour, then made our<br />
way off the beaten track. Venice<br />
is always busy around St. Mark’s<br />
Square and the Rialto bridge, so<br />
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />
we would recommend the Hidden<br />
Venice on Foot tour, unless you are<br />
confident enough to go it alone.<br />
There is so much to see – little<br />
streets, almost alleys really, opening<br />
into wonderful old squares, nearly<br />
all with an ancient church; canals<br />
criss-crossed by little hump-back<br />
bridges. And all the while, the<br />
ebb and flow of<br />
Venetians living their<br />
lives around you.<br />
The colourful market<br />
near the Rialto bridge<br />
reminds you that this<br />
is a living, breathing<br />
city where people live and work; it<br />
is not Disneyland.<br />
The Lion of Venice, the<br />
ancient winged lion statue that is<br />
synonymous with the city, would<br />
be our constant companion on<br />
most of our journey. Sailing away<br />
from the Venice lagoon is simply<br />
wonderful. From the top deck, we<br />
could see the islands on both sides<br />
as Viking Sun glided slowly through<br />
the lagoon, before breaking out<br />
into the Adriatic Sea.<br />
The next morning, we woke up<br />
in Split, Croatia with a fantastic<br />
view of Diocletian’s Palace directly<br />
opposite our balcony. After<br />
breakfast, we headed out to the<br />
coach which took us to the Krka<br />
National Park. This really is a jewel<br />
of Croatia, with spectacular scenery<br />
and stunning waterfalls. Our tour<br />
guide Harry’s knowledge was<br />
extensive, and his witty delivery<br />
made the outing great fun.<br />
Krka National Park really is a jewel<br />
of Croatia, with spectacular scenery<br />
and stunning waterfalls<br />
That evening, we ate in<br />
Manfredi’s Italian restaurant and<br />
can honestly say that the steak was<br />
the best we’ve tasted - and that’s<br />
some feat! It was so good we went<br />
there twice in a week!<br />
From one “Game of Thrones”<br />
backdrop to another: it’s onwards<br />
to the pearl that is Dubrovnik,<br />
certainly a ‘must see’ of the<br />
Adriatic. Surrounded by thick,<br />
medieval walls that tower over<br />
the city and the sea, it is a sight to<br />
behold. The included tour took us<br />
high above Dubrovnik, which gave<br />
a fantastic view of the city and the<br />
Isles beyond. Our<br />
tour guide gave us<br />
a real insight into<br />
life in medieval<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
(formally Ragusa)<br />
including the<br />
origin of the word<br />
‘quarantine’. We had no idea it<br />
began here in 1377,<br />
when a mandatory<br />
offshore period of 40<br />
days was introduced to<br />
stave off the plague.<br />
Walking on the<br />
walls is a must for<br />
more intimate views of the city.<br />
The difference between the new<br />
red pantile roofs and the older ones<br />
reveals the extent of the damage<br />
and trauma suffered by this city<br />
during the war of the early 1990s.<br />
Kotor beckoned the next day as<br />
we sailed on down the Dalmatian<br />
coast into the beautiful fjord-like<br />
inlet. This small Montenegrin city<br />
is a relatively new destination.<br />
The ancient narrow streets give a<br />
sense of its past and the need for<br />
protection against pirates. It was<br />
October and the days were getting<br />
warmer as we travelled south.<br />
This page, left<br />
to right: Early<br />
morning in the<br />
Piazza San<br />
Marco, Venice;<br />
Val and Ann<br />
enjoy a drink on<br />
board Viking Sun<br />
Overleaf, left to<br />
right: Grand Canal<br />
palace façades<br />
viewed from the<br />
fish market; a<br />
stunning waterfall<br />
spotted in Krka<br />
National Park<br />
10 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 11
REVIEW<br />
So, we returned to Viking Sun in<br />
the afternoon to enjoy some of its<br />
many delights and eventually found<br />
ourselves sitting in the sun chatting<br />
to new friends over a cocktail.<br />
We headed down the coast<br />
towards Corfu, to the<br />
island’s old town and<br />
fortress. We took to the<br />
water again, this time<br />
in a small boat to visit<br />
Paleokastritsa and it’s<br />
wonderful coastline.<br />
Our little boat inched its way into<br />
a cave where sunlight somehow<br />
shone through an underwater cave<br />
from the other side, to reveal a<br />
remarkable bright turquoise splash<br />
of water called ‘The Eye’. The last<br />
full day of our journey loomed<br />
as our beautiful ship cruised into<br />
the Ionian Sea and we arrived in<br />
Katakolon. It was to be one of the<br />
most memorable days. Absolutely<br />
There is so much to see – little streets<br />
opening into wonderful old squares,<br />
canals criss-crossed by little bridges<br />
compelling was our visit to<br />
Olympia, the home of the Olympic<br />
games, whose origins go back to<br />
nearly 800 BC and took place<br />
every four years for the next 1100<br />
years till 400 AD. That’s like us<br />
still watching the Olympic games<br />
every four years that were started by<br />
William the Conqueror!<br />
The site is vast, and it was<br />
interesting to see the place where<br />
the present-day<br />
Olympic torch is<br />
lit. The museum is<br />
wonderful: the Greeks<br />
were true masters of<br />
stonemasonry and<br />
sculpture. Here we<br />
found out that the Greeks were the<br />
first to create statues with a relaxed<br />
hip where one leg is bent slightly,<br />
a legacy passed on to Michelangelo<br />
and evident in his David statue. We<br />
both came away truly awestruck by<br />
the spectacle and size of the site.<br />
Back on Viking Sun, we went<br />
to a discussion about the Elgin<br />
Marbles led by the onboard<br />
resident historian; there was an<br />
extensive programme of historical,<br />
geographical and political talks<br />
during the trip to suit all interests.<br />
All too soon our journey was<br />
over but we had a fabulous time.<br />
Everything about the ship, her<br />
staff and our journey was truly<br />
memorable. We loved it so much<br />
we are booked to do it again!<br />
Above: Katakolon,<br />
a small town on<br />
the coast of the<br />
Ionian Sea<br />
Below: The<br />
monastery of<br />
Paleokastritsa<br />
in Corfu<br />
The 8-day 2022 Venice, the<br />
Adriatic & Greece journey,<br />
from Venice to Athens,<br />
starts from £2,740pp.<br />
12 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong>
CITY GUIDE<br />
Athens<br />
Europe’s classical capital beckons with an<br />
electrifying blend of urban grit and ancient<br />
grandeur, delicious food and sweeping vistas<br />
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />
Athens is where the<br />
ancient and modern<br />
worlds collide to create<br />
something utterly<br />
spectacular. Centuriesold<br />
Byzantine churches and classical<br />
buildings line cobbled streets, and<br />
sprawling neighbourhoods play<br />
host to buzzing bars, restaurants<br />
and cafes, where people pour<br />
out into the streets and bask in<br />
the heat of the day. The city’s art<br />
scene has abounded in recent<br />
years, with commercial galleries<br />
like The Breeder and Goulandris<br />
Foundation favoured hot spots for<br />
art enthusiasts. Athens exudes a<br />
charming energy and chaos, and at<br />
its heart, the gleaming marble of the<br />
Acropolis, which sits on a hill and<br />
is visible from almost all corners of<br />
the city – an ever-present reminder<br />
of the country’s age-old history.<br />
Don’t miss<br />
• The National Gardens, tucked<br />
away in the heart of the city,<br />
have offered a serene retreat from<br />
the hustle and bustle of the city<br />
since the 19th century.<br />
• The Museum of Cycladic Art is<br />
rich in ancient statues, figurines,<br />
vases and sculptures, with more<br />
than 3,000 artefacts of Cycladic,<br />
ancient Greek and Cypriot origin,<br />
connecting Greece to its past.<br />
• Head to the neighbourhood of<br />
Monastiraki for your fun fix of<br />
rooftop bars, markets, buzzing<br />
restaurants and cafés and peruse<br />
shops filled with antiques and<br />
handmade jewellery<br />
• Be sure to visit Anafiotika, a<br />
charming Cycladic village clinging<br />
to the northern slopes of the<br />
Acropolis. Cats snooze among the<br />
geraniums and whitewashed houses<br />
reflect the sun’s golden glow.<br />
Fast facts<br />
• Athens is Europe’s oldest capital<br />
city, with its origins dating back<br />
to 3,000 BC, and is regarded as the<br />
birthplace of democracy, with the<br />
political system enacted in 500 BC<br />
where eligible citizens could vote<br />
directly on laws.<br />
• The marathon came from the<br />
story of Pheidippides – a Greek<br />
soldier who ran from Marathon,<br />
Greece, to Athens in 490 BC. His<br />
long run has inspired the famous<br />
26.2-mile event today.<br />
• Athens was named after Athena,<br />
the Greek goddess of wisdom and<br />
war, although it was nearly named<br />
after Poseidon, the God of the sea.<br />
Athena won with her gift of an<br />
olive tree.<br />
INSIDER TIPS<br />
Changing of the guards<br />
The Hellenic Parliament<br />
stands in the heart<br />
of the city. It’s here<br />
that two guards take<br />
up residence, dressed in<br />
traditional costume.<br />
Café culture<br />
Experience Grecian café<br />
culture by heading to<br />
the neighbourhoods of<br />
Pangrati and Exarhia,<br />
where locals spill out<br />
from tavernas to play<br />
games of backgammon.<br />
Above: The<br />
Acropolis<br />
dominates the<br />
ancient cityscape<br />
of Athens<br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 13
DISCOVERY<br />
THE SECRETS OF<br />
THE PYRAMIDS<br />
Egypt’s pyramids are its<br />
most iconic treasures.<br />
Discover the necropolis<br />
of Sakkara, thought<br />
to be the first pyramid built in<br />
ancient Egypt. At Giza Plateau,<br />
the most spectacular are the Great<br />
Pyramids of Khufu, Khafre and<br />
Menkaure. Also on the list is Abu<br />
al-Hol – the Sphinx that guards<br />
the entrance to the tombs.<br />
TOP 10<br />
DESTINATIONS IN EGYPT<br />
We’ve rounded up the highlights of this ancient land, a<br />
place where the remains of an ancient civilisation blend<br />
with the hustle and bustle of modern-day life<br />
LUXOR TEMPLE<br />
This striking temple<br />
sits on the fringes of the<br />
modern town of Luxor.<br />
Known as the Southern<br />
Sanctuary, the interiors<br />
boast ancient hieroglyphs<br />
telling of the festival of<br />
Opet which was held<br />
annually in ancient<br />
Egypt. Visit the Great<br />
Court of Ramses II,<br />
whose walls are adorned<br />
with the names and titles<br />
of his 17 sons.<br />
CITADEL OF SALAH EL DIN<br />
The medieval Islamic-era fortification in Cairo is perched on a hill<br />
that looms over the city. Its spectacular dome and minarets shoot<br />
up to dominate the capital city’s skyline while its imposing gateways<br />
and high defending walls show its purpose during a time of warfare.<br />
The citadel is one of Cairo’s main attractions and one of the most<br />
popular non-pharaonic monuments – along with the Mohamed<br />
Ali Mosque – it today houses various museums, and is the most<br />
prominent and photographed spot within the complex.<br />
4<br />
DENDERA TEMPLE<br />
EXPLORATION<br />
The complex of Dendera is one of<br />
Egypt’s best-preserved sites and is<br />
situated on the west bank of the<br />
Nile. It dates all the way back to the<br />
mid-4th century BC and is thought<br />
to be a shrine to the goddess of<br />
love, Hathor. Inside, the temple<br />
boasts examples of Ptolemaic<br />
Egyptian art, and a replica of the<br />
Dendera Zodiac – a sculpture from<br />
the Greco-Roman period that charts<br />
stars in the ancient sky.<br />
TEMPLES OF PHILAE<br />
Founded around 280 BC, the<br />
Temples of Philae were an important<br />
centre for the cult of Isis, and later<br />
were of great significance to the<br />
Greeks and Romans. The temples<br />
are now a UNESCO site, and have<br />
been moved, block by block, to<br />
Agilka Island. Discover the sites<br />
of the temples, staying for the<br />
evening to catch the light show<br />
that creates a dramatic kaleidoscope<br />
of light and shadow, bringing<br />
the figures displayed on<br />
the walls to life.<br />
PHOTOS: ©AWL IMAGES; ISTOCK; ALAMY5<br />
14 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 15
DISCOVERY<br />
6CAIRO MARKETS<br />
Egypt’s pulsating souks<br />
are feasts for all the<br />
senses where you’ll find<br />
everything from crafts<br />
and intricate jewellery<br />
to aromatic and unusual<br />
spices and foods. A trip to Cairo isn’t complete<br />
without a visit to the famous Khan El-Khalili<br />
market where visitors wander its narrow<br />
walkways on a quest for that ultimate souvenir.<br />
The souk sits on the site of what was once an<br />
ancient trade route and so today’s atmosphere<br />
isn’t unlike what it was during the times of<br />
the Berbers and Turks who would trade<br />
after journeying on camelback.<br />
OLD CAIRO<br />
Discover the narrow<br />
alleyways of Coptic Cairo<br />
– the final stage of ancient<br />
Egypt that can be characterised<br />
by its Christian faith. Visit the<br />
Christian Quarter of Cairo, the<br />
Coptic Museum, which holds the<br />
largest collection of Christian artifacts<br />
in the world and is built on the ruins of<br />
the Roman Babylon Fort. Old Cairo is<br />
also home to the Ben Ezra Synagogue,<br />
originally a Coptic church until it was<br />
sold to the Jewish community.<br />
DISCOVERING ASWAN<br />
The Aswan High Dam is a<br />
masterpiece of engineering that<br />
protects the Nile’s surrounding<br />
fields. A modern undertaking<br />
finalised in the 1960s, its<br />
damming established the<br />
300-mile-long Lake Nassar<br />
which now provides electricity<br />
and water for all Egypt.<br />
THE VILLAGE OF ESNA<br />
A charming town off the beaten<br />
track that offers its own fascinating<br />
quirks. Along the waterfront sit<br />
quintessential 19th-century houses<br />
with traditional mashrabiya – wooden<br />
lattice screens. Esna was once the site<br />
of Latopolis, and its ancient temple remains, devoted<br />
to the guardian of the source of the Nile, Khnum.<br />
The temple is thought to be one of the last built<br />
by the Egyptians, and it is here visitors will find the<br />
last-known hieroglyphic inscriptions recorded by the<br />
Roman emperor Dios in 250AD. Towering columns<br />
are still adorned with intricate carvings that tell<br />
Khnum’s story.<br />
10<br />
THE TEMPLE OF HORUS<br />
This particular temple was built in Edfu, on the west bank of the Nile, during the Ptolemaic<br />
Dynasty. Totally submerged by desert sands for two centuries, the temple remains one of the<br />
best preserved of all Egypt’s temples. A shrine to the falcon-headed god of light, the entrance<br />
is flanked by two falcon statues. Inside, you’ll spot a colonnaded courtyard, hieroglyphics and<br />
rows of lotus columns. The stairway to the roof was once used in the annual New Year’s festival<br />
when priests carried a statue of Horus so it could be revitalised by the year’s first sun.<br />
PHOTOS: ©GETTY; ISTOCK<br />
16 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 17
REVIEW<br />
A taste of<br />
Salamanca<br />
Kay Wilkie reports back from her first visit to the<br />
ancient university city of Salamanca, in Spain<br />
This page,<br />
clockwise,<br />
from above:<br />
The magnificent<br />
skyline of<br />
Salamanca;<br />
spotting storks<br />
nesting in the<br />
rooftops is<br />
thought to bring<br />
good luck<br />
We thoroughly<br />
enjoyed revisiting<br />
Lisbon and Porto<br />
on our Portugal’s<br />
River of Gold cruise, however<br />
our favourite destination was<br />
the Spanish university city of<br />
Salamanca. Viking Osfrid moored<br />
at Vega de Terrón, the furthest<br />
navigable point on the Douro,<br />
and we set off. Although we had<br />
holidayed in Spain many times,<br />
we had never visited Salamanca<br />
and my knowledge of the city was<br />
limited to vaguely-remembered<br />
history lessons about the 19thcentury<br />
Peninsula War. A goldenstoned<br />
city with many fine<br />
buildings, including two cathedrals<br />
and the 13th-century university,<br />
there has been a settlement on the<br />
site on the Rio Tormes since<br />
pre-Roman times.<br />
The excursion began in one of<br />
Salamanca’s food markets where<br />
we sampled local cured meats,<br />
cheeses and olives, accompanied<br />
by a glass of locally produced<br />
red wine. From there we headed<br />
to the Plaza Mayor where we<br />
were free to explore. For centuries,<br />
these main squares have been<br />
central to the life of many Spanish<br />
cities, being part town square,<br />
part theatre, part residential and<br />
part gathering place. Built in the<br />
18th century, the Plaza Mayor in<br />
Salamanca is one of the largest<br />
and finest in Spain. Surrounded<br />
by Baroque buildings, it provides<br />
a stunning backdrop for lively<br />
Salamancan life.<br />
Having admired and<br />
photographed the square, we<br />
headed down one of the narrow<br />
streets until we reached a<br />
building with two towers and a<br />
dome, the Pontifical University<br />
of Salamanca, a private Roman<br />
Catholic University. Hearing our<br />
accents, the curator switched to<br />
English and told us that his wife<br />
came from Glasgow and that he<br />
had lived there for several years.<br />
He advised that, despite the many<br />
steps, we should be sure to go right<br />
to the top of the towers for the<br />
magnificent view. He didn’t lie,<br />
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/AWL<br />
about the view or the steps!<br />
The golden city basked in the<br />
sun, and an unexpected bonus was<br />
a close-up view of several storks’<br />
nests in the neighbouring towers.<br />
I was fascinated by the small heads<br />
popping out from the clutter of<br />
sticks. Storks nesting on a rooftop<br />
are thought to bring good luck.<br />
From the towers we noticed that<br />
the walls of the building opposite<br />
were decorated with scallop shells,<br />
the badges of pilgrims en route to<br />
Santiago de Compostela. The Casa<br />
de las Conchas, again built around<br />
a central courtyard, was once the<br />
home of Rodrigo Maldonado, a<br />
knight of Santiago, and is now<br />
a library. After exploring it we<br />
strolled along the narrow streets,<br />
then across the gardens to the<br />
cathedral, or rather the cathedrals,<br />
the new cathedral being built<br />
alongside the old. As Viking<br />
guests we had free entry to this<br />
magnificent Renaissance building.<br />
The Plateresque design is specific<br />
to Spain, so called as the detailed<br />
sculpting on the stone resembles<br />
elaborate silverwork. The highlight<br />
of the new cathedral is the multipanelled<br />
altarpiece surrounding<br />
a statue of Salamanca’s patron<br />
saint. We left through the<br />
12th-century Romanesque<br />
cathedral, but didn’t linger as<br />
there was a wedding in process;<br />
a beautiful bride and a handsome<br />
groom with a congregation of very<br />
fashionably-dressed guests.<br />
From there, we made our way<br />
down to the River Tormes. The<br />
Roman bridge still has 15 of its<br />
original 26 arches and gives a<br />
superb view of Salamanca.<br />
Returning to the cathedral<br />
gardens, we noticed that they were<br />
now filled with people, some in<br />
robes and some stylishly dressed.<br />
We quickly realised that this was a<br />
truly joyful occasion – graduation<br />
– the celebration of several years’<br />
hard work, the beginning of a<br />
new chapter in life and a cause<br />
for family pride. Unlike British<br />
robes – where the subject and class<br />
of degree are denoted by different<br />
coloured hoods – the Spanish<br />
robes had fabric triangles featuring<br />
different colours for different<br />
faculties, on which subject and<br />
degree level were visible. Much to<br />
my husband’s embarrassment, I<br />
enjoyed looking out for different<br />
subjects and classifications, mostly<br />
Life Sciences and Pharmacology.<br />
By now in need of sustenance<br />
before joining the afternoon<br />
walking tour of the 16th-century<br />
university buildings, we were<br />
fortunate enough to find two<br />
seats along with new graduates<br />
and their proud families in one of<br />
the bustling outdoor restaurants.<br />
We ordered some snacks to share<br />
– gambas pil pil, croquettes de<br />
serrano, patatas bravas, tortilla and<br />
albondigas with a plate of pimentos<br />
de Padron on the side, laughing<br />
and spluttering when one of us<br />
got a hot one. As we enjoyed a<br />
glass of Ribera del Duero with our<br />
tapas, a group of music graduates<br />
and lecturers went past, in medieval<br />
dress, playing lutes, guitars and<br />
other stringed instruments.<br />
A truly memorable day.<br />
A 10-day 2022 Portugal’s River<br />
of Gold trip, from Lisbon to<br />
Porto, starts from £2,195pp.<br />
This page,<br />
clockwise, from<br />
top left: Kay<br />
enjoyed the local<br />
delicacies on offer;<br />
the ecclesiastical<br />
architecture was<br />
a highlight; the<br />
University of<br />
Salamanca from<br />
a spectacular<br />
viewpoint<br />
18 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 19
REVIEW<br />
Amazing<br />
Asia<br />
Lindsay and Fiona Robinson look back<br />
at a remarkable journey of contrasts,<br />
from Bangkok to Tokyo<br />
PHOTOS: © ADOBE STOCK; ISTOCK<br />
Two years ago some<br />
friends suggested that we<br />
joined them on the very<br />
first Viking cruise from<br />
Hong Kong to Tokyo. We thought<br />
it would be a great experience and,<br />
in addition, we decided to add on<br />
the preceding sector from Bangkok<br />
to Hong Kong which would allow<br />
us the opportunity to explore even<br />
more of Asia.<br />
We visited huge and spectacular<br />
mega cities and saw a way<br />
of life under attack from the<br />
relentless pace of change. We<br />
also experienced the thoughtful<br />
resilience of Hiroshima and<br />
Nagasaki and the unimaginable<br />
horror experienced by those who<br />
lived there just over 70 years ago.<br />
The countries came thick and<br />
fast with glimpses of Thailand,<br />
Cambodia, Taiwan, and South<br />
Korea and the chance to see<br />
Vietnam, Hong Kong and Japan<br />
in much more depth. We saw<br />
countries at very different stages<br />
of their development. Cambodia<br />
– struggling to escape from the<br />
poverty of a destroyed economy<br />
and education system – was not<br />
easy to see but we appreciated<br />
going, seeing and trying to<br />
understand what it was going<br />
through. We were astonished<br />
by the fast pace of growth, the<br />
creative architecture, ambitious<br />
infrastructure and changing<br />
lifestyles. We saw countries<br />
ruined by war in the last 75<br />
years, resurrected from the ashes.<br />
Busan in Korea, Ho Chi Minh<br />
City, Hiroshima and Nagasaki<br />
have all been transformed after<br />
their destructions and the Asian<br />
economic miracle is clear to see!<br />
CONTRASTS<br />
As well as mega cities, we were<br />
privileged in many places to see<br />
life as it was, and, where – in<br />
just a few places – it remains<br />
unchanged. A two-day trip into<br />
the Mekong Delta from Ho Chi<br />
Minh City allowed us to see the<br />
people and lifestyles in this special<br />
environment. In Ha Long Bay we<br />
took trips into the bay over two<br />
days to see the fishing villages and<br />
the economic development that<br />
sustains traditional communities.<br />
Fun street markets in Hong<br />
Kong provided the chance to work<br />
on our negotiating skills. There<br />
were many opportunities to see<br />
traditional craftsmen at work and<br />
to enjoy local entertainment. The<br />
two breath-taking cable car trips<br />
across the bay in Ha Long Bay<br />
and the other from Lantau back to<br />
Honk Kong were a contrast.<br />
PEOPLE<br />
The people of Asia<br />
are a revelation<br />
and are what make<br />
the experience -<br />
welcoming, hardworking,<br />
young,<br />
fun, spirited and<br />
engaging. We had<br />
some very knowledgeable tour<br />
guides, met the most friendly<br />
people, even in the poorest of<br />
places, and as we travelled<br />
through Japan, every port put<br />
on a special show to welcome<br />
us and bid us farewell.<br />
Unexpected moments of<br />
course are the best: the floating<br />
shopkeeper who came to sell us<br />
delicious fruit in Ha Long Bay;<br />
the Japanese girls dressed in their<br />
gorgeous kimonos celebrating<br />
their new emperor during the<br />
Golden Week celebrations; and<br />
the delightful free guide who took<br />
us around a beautiful garden in<br />
Hiroshima in the pouring rain, and<br />
who wouldn’t even accept a tip! In<br />
Shimizu, we were stunned to find<br />
there was a carnival atmosphere for<br />
our arrival and 24-hour stay in the<br />
shade of Mount Fuji.<br />
This page,<br />
clockwise, from<br />
top right: Kinkaku-<br />
Ju temple in Kyoto;<br />
Lindsay and Fiona<br />
Robinson; dressing<br />
up for Golden Day<br />
in Kyoto<br />
Opposite: The<br />
epic landscape<br />
surrounding<br />
Ha Long Bay<br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 21
REVIEW<br />
PLACES<br />
In Japan, we travelled with the<br />
locals as they celebrated their new<br />
emperor. Vast crowds thronged<br />
religious sites and cities were in<br />
the midst of special celebrations.<br />
Kyoto was perhaps the busiest place<br />
we saw – our tour managed to get<br />
us into the three most spectacular<br />
sites, the Kinka-Ji Golden Temple,<br />
Arashiyama and the bamboo grove,<br />
and the Fushimi Inari complex with<br />
its 10,000 tori gates. The gardeners<br />
even cut the grass with scissors to<br />
leave a stunning moss carpet. I don’t<br />
think that will be repeated in our<br />
garden! In Sihanoukville, we saw<br />
the challenge of starting out again<br />
after the Pol Pot genocide – we<br />
visited the Ream National Park<br />
where attempts have been made to<br />
encourage sustainable tourism, but<br />
also saw a culture where rubbish is<br />
not collected, investment is in very<br />
short supply and pockets of real<br />
poverty and deprivation still exist.<br />
We are glad Viking did not airbrush<br />
out this part of our experience.<br />
VIKING ORION<br />
Viking Orion was the same<br />
beautiful and relaxing place we<br />
know so well. We enjoyed Asianthemed<br />
food, gracious service,<br />
making new friends, and wellproduced<br />
entertainment. We<br />
particularly enjoyed relaxing in the<br />
Living Room bar in the evening as<br />
the pianist Geza played effortlessly<br />
hour after hour and of course the<br />
enthusiastic vocalists who sang in<br />
the Star Theatre most evenings.<br />
The lectures followed the usual<br />
Viking pattern, but on this cruise<br />
there was something different. We<br />
were privileged to attend lectures<br />
with the multi-talented and highly<br />
knowledgeable Dr. John Freedman.<br />
Never have I seen<br />
a lecturer work<br />
so hard and be so<br />
engaging. Sometimes he lectured<br />
twice a day and there was standing<br />
room only in the Star Theatre for<br />
his accessible contemporary history<br />
and culture lecture programme!<br />
AND FINALLY<br />
There were so many highlights<br />
that it is difficult to pick a<br />
few that stand out. For us, we<br />
loved the beauty of Japan, the<br />
welcoming people, the stunning<br />
architecture and visiting the places<br />
where new cities have grown<br />
out of unbelievable horror, with<br />
forgiveness and understanding.<br />
We were fortunate to have Viking<br />
Orion as our base from which to<br />
explore and there is no question if<br />
we could do it all again tomorrow<br />
we would be there without<br />
a second thought! It is a life<br />
experience we will never forget.<br />
A 15-day 2022 Southeast Asia<br />
& Hong Kong trip starts from<br />
£5,290pp, and a 15-day 2022<br />
Far Eastern Horizons journey<br />
starts from £6,490pp.<br />
Clockwise,<br />
from top left:<br />
Kyoto, Japan<br />
at the bamboo<br />
forest; welcoming<br />
children in Ream<br />
National Park;<br />
Asian-themed<br />
food, such as<br />
sushi, was part of<br />
the experience<br />
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ AWL<br />
22 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong>
CITY GUIDE<br />
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />
Tokyo skyscrapers,<br />
Electric, sprawling, everchanging,<br />
Tokyo is a<br />
fascinating city known<br />
for its sleek skyscrapers,<br />
pop-coloured<br />
billboards, buzzing nightlife<br />
scene and fast-paced lifestyle. On<br />
the horizon, Mount Fuji looms,<br />
reminding us that as futuristic as<br />
Tokyo feels, it is steeped in history.<br />
Visitors to Tokyo can still find a<br />
taste of time gone by, and head to<br />
its more sleepy neighbourhoods,<br />
where bright lanterns hang from<br />
wooden buildings, seeking to<br />
preserve the culture and history of<br />
the country’s feudal era. Amidst<br />
the hustle and bustle of Tokyo,<br />
tranquillity and stillness can be<br />
found, too. The district of Asakusa<br />
is home to the city’s oldest Buddhist<br />
temple, Senso-Ji, and traditional<br />
stalls along Nakamise street. Along<br />
the Kanda River, the French<br />
Quarter, Kagurazaka, is home to<br />
cobbled streets and Zen paradise<br />
gardens. In springtime, Shinjuku<br />
Gyoen National Garden’s cherry<br />
blossoms are a must-see.<br />
Tokyo is a feast for all senses with its futuristic<br />
ancient temples, and vibrant markets<br />
Don’t miss<br />
• For an authentic experience of<br />
Tokyo, head to Tsukiji fish market.<br />
Get there early and you will catch<br />
all the action, and enjoy the full<br />
experience with a sushi breakfast.<br />
• For a historical tour of Tokyo,<br />
head to Edo-Tokyo Museum and<br />
discover how the 15th-century<br />
village of Edo transformed to<br />
become one of the largest cities<br />
in the world.<br />
• For panoramic views of the<br />
city, make your way up the<br />
Tokyo Metropolitan Government<br />
Building, known as Tochi in<br />
Japanese. On a clear day, you can<br />
see as far as Mount Fuji from the<br />
observation deck on the 45th floor.<br />
• Tokyo is famed for its gaming, so<br />
head to the arcades of Ikebukuro<br />
and watch gamers in action at the<br />
multi-story arcades.<br />
Fast facts<br />
• The cherry blossom is the national<br />
symbol of Japan. In April, the trees<br />
flower for a two-week spectacle,<br />
known as Hanami.<br />
• Tokyo has the world’s highest<br />
volume of Michelin stars.<br />
• The city is home to about 10 per<br />
cent of Japan’s entire population.<br />
If you include the greater Tokyo<br />
metro area of Kanagawa, Saitama<br />
and Chiba, the population amounts<br />
to around 38 million people.<br />
INSIDER TIPS<br />
Sky high<br />
Opened in 2012,<br />
the Tokyo Skytree<br />
broadcasting tower is<br />
an iconic landmark, with<br />
several observation decks<br />
open to the public.<br />
Row and relax<br />
Several districts are<br />
home to boating lakes,<br />
moats and ponds where<br />
visitors can rent rowing<br />
boats by the half hour.<br />
Glide off to find your<br />
very own peaceful oasis.<br />
Above: Tokyo<br />
by night has<br />
an electric<br />
atmosphere<br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 23
DISCOVERY<br />
The GREAT<br />
OUTDOORS<br />
We highlight the variety of inviting outdoor<br />
spaces on board Viking ships<br />
AQUAVIT TERRACE<br />
First designed for Viking Longships, this outdoor<br />
terrace has been reimagined for our ocean ships,<br />
where it is set around the Infinity Pool. By day, it’s<br />
a relaxing lounge area, at night it transforms into a<br />
magical space where your destination is your dining<br />
room. Likewise, on Viking’s expedition ships, the<br />
Aquavit Terrace is a sociable, relaxing space, where<br />
you can take in the views or take a dip in a choice<br />
of three pools.<br />
The great outdoors is especially energising<br />
when you’re at sea or on the river. The<br />
breeze is fresh, the air is clean, and it’s the<br />
perfect place to take a stroll on deck, relax<br />
and restore a sense of equilibrium. We’ve gathered<br />
some of our favourite outdoor places on board our<br />
award-winning ocean ships, Viking Longships and<br />
new expedition ships. Pull up a sun lounger or a<br />
comfy chair – we’ll see you there!<br />
24 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 25
DISCOVERY<br />
PRIVATE VERANDA<br />
Step out of your stateroom straight onto your<br />
private veranda. On the river and at sea (where<br />
every room comes with a veranda), your outside<br />
retreat is the perfect spot to relax and take in<br />
the fresh air, or take breakfast, lunch or dinner<br />
– our ocean ships offer 24-hour room service,<br />
all included, of course.<br />
FINSE TERRACE<br />
This beautiful space on the Viking expedition ships<br />
offers the ultimate in outdoor comfort. Inviting sofas<br />
with feather-filled cushions wrap around a Nordic-style<br />
fire pit, and plush blankets add to the warm ambience.<br />
Everywhere you look, you are met with spectacular<br />
views of stunning scenery.<br />
26 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 27
DISCOVERY<br />
OWNER’S SUITE ON VIKING<br />
EXPEDITION SHIPS<br />
The largest suite onboard our expedition ships<br />
offers 1223 sq.ft of exceptional space and<br />
amenities, including a private garden lounge<br />
area, complete with badestamp, a traditional<br />
wooden-sided hot tub. Perfect for relaxing<br />
after a busy day of exploring.<br />
THE MAIN POOL ON<br />
VIKING OCEAN SHIPS<br />
A haven for relaxation, swims and soaks, the heated<br />
main pool, with its overhead retractable roof, is a<br />
calming oasis in all weathers. By night, it transforms<br />
into a magical venue for stargazing and for watching a<br />
classic movie, or enjoying opera under the stars.<br />
28 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SUN DECK AND LOUNGE<br />
The top deck on the Viking Longships offers a<br />
walking track, organic herb garden, and panoramic<br />
views that change with every bend in the river. This<br />
space on Viking’s ocean ships is an outdoor living<br />
area with comfy sofas, and you can practise your<br />
swing on the putting green and make use of the<br />
fitness equipment.<br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 29
GARDENING<br />
This page: A lush<br />
courtyard area<br />
caught in bright<br />
spring sunshine;<br />
award-winning<br />
designer Paul<br />
Hervey-Brookes<br />
SPRING celebration<br />
Award-winning garden designer, Paul Hervey-Brookes, marks<br />
the new season with historical musings and gardening tips<br />
At this time<br />
of year, each<br />
day seems<br />
to lengthen,<br />
and noticeably so, until<br />
by the end of April,<br />
it seems that spring<br />
has finally sprung, in<br />
all its decadence and<br />
blossom-laden wonder.<br />
The first day of<br />
April, known to many<br />
as ‘April Fools’ Day’,<br />
is the day when the morning can<br />
be spent playing tricks on friends<br />
and family – all light-hearted fun.<br />
Ask almost anyone and they will<br />
find its origins quite obscure, but<br />
they are in fact French. In the<br />
16th century, New Year’s Day was<br />
marked on April 1st and celebrated<br />
with parties, dances and garlands<br />
of blossom and spring flowers.<br />
However, in 1582, Pope Gregory<br />
introduced a revised Christian<br />
calendar which moved New Year’s<br />
Day to January 1st. Of course in<br />
a world without telephones and<br />
computers, news was slow to travel<br />
and New Year’s Day continued<br />
to be celebrated for some time in<br />
April. People who accepted the<br />
new date gradually began playing<br />
tricks on those they called April<br />
fools which was the foundation of<br />
a new tradition that travelled with<br />
European settlers around the world.<br />
The saddest part of this story<br />
for a gardener is the lack of flowers<br />
available for January’s celebrations.<br />
But we can still celebrate the end<br />
of April with another ancient<br />
celebration, Walpurgis Night,<br />
marking the eve of the Christian<br />
feast day of Saint Walpurga.<br />
Thought to be of Scandinavian<br />
origin, Walpurga was born in<br />
Britian in the early 8th century, and<br />
later in life travelled to Germany<br />
where she founded the Catholic<br />
Convent at Heidenheim. She died<br />
in 779 and was made a saint on 1st<br />
May later the same year. By Papal<br />
chance, her saint’s day falls on the<br />
same date as ancient Viking fertility<br />
celebrations and allowed the pagan<br />
ritual and the Catholic celebration<br />
to intertwine, hence the night-time<br />
parades to ward off evil that follow<br />
a day of bell tolling and prayers.<br />
Again flowers were an<br />
integral part of this festival,<br />
used in headdress garlands and<br />
as adornments throughout<br />
the dwellings. April has an<br />
abundance of blooms – from<br />
bluebells, blossom and even wild<br />
orchids – ensuring that these<br />
festivals, complete with incense<br />
and reverence, must have been<br />
a sight to behold. Our own<br />
celebrations in the garden start<br />
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; ALAMY<br />
with the joy of bulbs we planted<br />
last autumn appearing alongside<br />
spring flowering perennials such<br />
as Pulmonarias, Brunnera and<br />
emerging Aquilegia.<br />
April is the first month of the<br />
year where the ground is warm<br />
to the touch, and seeds sown<br />
directly will germinate within days.<br />
No wonder our ancestors of old<br />
saw this as a fertile month and<br />
celebrated it.<br />
I like to direct sow Nigella<br />
seed in April or, if I forget and<br />
am slightly late, in early May. It is<br />
perhaps one of the most dazzling<br />
of the easy annuals you could<br />
choose. I love the soft blues of the<br />
ordinary Nigella damascena, known<br />
commonly to many as ‘Love in the<br />
Mist’, but the ‘Bridal Veil’ variety<br />
has large faded white petals and<br />
highly pronounced black anthers,<br />
so it really does look like a bridal<br />
gown of old.<br />
Nigella damascena comes from<br />
Syria, and was brought to Europe<br />
in the 1500s, most likely by the<br />
Crusaders. Its seeds can be collected<br />
and are often used in cookery and<br />
its soft, fragile-looking flowers dry<br />
well and can be kept for up to five<br />
years before fading completely.<br />
The other must-have easy annual<br />
I grow is the humble marigold,<br />
Calendula officinalis. Again this<br />
can be sown directly in-between<br />
perennials in the open border, in<br />
containers and in cutting beds<br />
during April, May and June.<br />
Calendula, often known as ‘English<br />
Marigold’ comes in many colours,<br />
from brilliant yellow and burnt<br />
orange to the softer pastel shades<br />
and the beautifully bi-coloured<br />
‘Neon’, whose petals are darker on<br />
the reverse, giving a subtle colour<br />
even though the name suggests<br />
something much brighter. Calendula<br />
is an ancient potherb, meaning its<br />
flowers have been used to garnish<br />
salads and other dishes since ancient<br />
Greek times.<br />
In India and the Middle East,<br />
where the flowers were used as a<br />
substitute for saffron, a chance<br />
discovery was made. The poor,<br />
hard-working woman whose hands<br />
should have been calloused and<br />
worn from work instead had soft,<br />
gentle hands, the envy of their<br />
rich masters. The reason seemed<br />
to be cultivating and harvesting<br />
the flowers and stems of Calendula<br />
for food and as a dye plant. This<br />
discovery lead to an explosion in<br />
demand for Calendula which began<br />
in the Middle Ages, when plants<br />
that had been exported to Europe<br />
were closely guarded by the monks<br />
in their monastery gardens. Today,<br />
the plant is just as popular and used<br />
in many skincare products.<br />
One of the other great delights of<br />
the season is rhubarb, forced sweet<br />
pink stems are utterly delicious and<br />
unique. Their sister stems later in the<br />
year need heavy baking and sugars<br />
to render them edible. Rhubarb also<br />
THE ESSENTIALS<br />
With so much to celebrate in the garden, it is<br />
easy to overlook the more humble of gardening<br />
happenings. Keep on top of the weeds now and<br />
spend time rooting out annual weed seedlings<br />
as they germinate to reduce work later on. If<br />
you grow fruits such as currants and raspberries,<br />
reduce your weeding and watering work by<br />
adding a thick mulch now. Wood chips and even<br />
lawn cuttings will work well and you will be<br />
thankful for one less job as the weather starts to<br />
get hotter.<br />
As soon as the frosts have passed in your area<br />
you can plant out dahlias into the borders. These<br />
queens of the later summer garden are loved by<br />
slugs, so mulch thickly and set the odd bear trap<br />
to ensure you enjoy the plants and flowers and<br />
the slugs do not.<br />
had an interesting history, for this<br />
strange, prehistoric looking plant<br />
once cost, gram for gram, more<br />
than gold.<br />
Rhubarb had been an important<br />
and valuable medicinal plant since<br />
2700BC in China, but during the<br />
later years of the Sung Dynasty, one<br />
Emperor believed that a daily dose<br />
kept his Empress thin, beautiful<br />
and youthful of complexion. The<br />
Empress was indeed beautiful<br />
and as the secrets of her beauty<br />
escaped the palace so the demand<br />
for rhubarb rose, along the Silk<br />
Route the news travelled, and in<br />
Russia the craze was so intense that<br />
at one stage it was punishable by<br />
death to take rhubarb out of Russia.<br />
Smuggling the wonder food was<br />
profitable business, ensuring that<br />
in Europe it cost more than gold<br />
for a time.<br />
The bubble eventually burst and<br />
rhubarb was relegated for some<br />
time to depressed English steamed<br />
puddings and school dinners, but<br />
its health properties have been<br />
proven of recent times and with its<br />
superfood status restored, demand<br />
is again increasing. The sweetest<br />
variety to grow is of course a secret<br />
but I’ll let you in on it, the species<br />
form Rheum tanguticum produces<br />
both delicious slim sweet stems, has<br />
attractive cut foliage and its flowers<br />
which come in mid to late summer<br />
are followed by ruby red seed<br />
capsules – worth looking out for.<br />
Above: A Nigella<br />
damascena<br />
‘Persian Jewels’<br />
seedhead<br />
Below: The<br />
superfood rhubarb<br />
once cost more<br />
gram for gram<br />
than gold<br />
30 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 31
REVIEW<br />
Alaskanadventure<br />
Seasoned Viking guests Sheila and Ed Davies venture<br />
into the icescapes of Alaska and Canada<br />
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />
This was our 22nd Viking<br />
(river and ocean) cruise.<br />
We were just as excited<br />
about joining our ship<br />
Viking Orion as we were when we<br />
joined our first Viking cruise, and<br />
we were certainly not disappointed.<br />
Prior to embarking on our<br />
cruise we were fortunate enough<br />
to join the Rocky Mountaineer<br />
Journey pre-cruise extension and<br />
what an experience that was. Before<br />
boarding the train we spent three<br />
days in the beautiful city of Banff<br />
and enjoyed the included tour of<br />
the area and the optional tour to<br />
the Columbia Icefield where we<br />
were taken to the Athabasca Glacier<br />
in a huge all-terrain Ice <strong>Explore</strong>r.<br />
On the way we visited the Peyto<br />
Lake – the turquoise water has to<br />
be seen to be believed.<br />
As we waited for the Rocky<br />
Mountaineer train to pull into<br />
the station and take us from Banff<br />
to Vancouver, I have never seen<br />
so many excited people eagerly<br />
waiting to get on board. The<br />
GoldLeaf service was excellent, as<br />
was the view from the glass-domed<br />
upper deck of our exclusive Viking<br />
carriage, giving us a perfect view of<br />
the outstanding scenery along our<br />
route. After two days on board, we<br />
left the train to spend two nights<br />
in the beautiful city of Vancouver<br />
where we enjoyed the included<br />
tour. We would highly recommend<br />
this pre-cruise extension.<br />
Then it was time to join our<br />
ship. It was just like coming home<br />
and we were quickly settled in to<br />
the familiar surroundings of what<br />
was to be our comfortable home for<br />
the next eleven days.<br />
Cruising on day one allowed us<br />
to relax and enjoy the wonderful<br />
scenery of the Inside Passage. On<br />
arriving at Sitka we went on a<br />
whale watching trip with another<br />
couple. We were fortunate to see<br />
some marvellous scenery and a<br />
family of grey whales that circled<br />
the boat – at times they were so<br />
close we could almost touch them.<br />
At Skagway we joined the<br />
optional excursion to the Denver<br />
Glacier to experience the fun of<br />
dog sledding. What an experience!<br />
The helicopter ride up to the glacier<br />
was fabulous, as was the scenery.<br />
We all had a turn at standing on<br />
the back of the sled and the feeling<br />
was exhilarating. Finally, we met<br />
some puppies for a cuddle and<br />
would have run off with them if<br />
no-one was looking. On returning<br />
to Skagway, we enjoyed a walk<br />
around the beautiful town.<br />
The next day was spent scenic<br />
cruising in the Yakutat Bay to<br />
view the Hubbard Glacier and we<br />
were stunned by its vastness and<br />
colours against the water – it was<br />
truly magnificent. The Captain was<br />
able to cruise reasonably close to<br />
the glacier allowing everyone the<br />
opportunity to have a good view<br />
of it. It was amazing to see the<br />
glacier calving and the many small<br />
icebergs floating around the ship.<br />
It was also a great experience<br />
to visit all the other ports of call,<br />
to appreciate how the locals live<br />
and to understand the culture of<br />
the Alaskan people. All too soon<br />
our cruise came to an end and it<br />
was time to go home. But we have<br />
brought many happy memories<br />
home with us and are so pleased to<br />
have cruised with Viking again.<br />
An 11-day 2022 Alaska & the<br />
Inside Passage journey, from<br />
Vancouver to Seward, starts<br />
from £4,790pp.<br />
This page,<br />
clockwise, from<br />
top left: Mount<br />
Edgecumbe, near<br />
Sitka, in Alaska;<br />
Ed and Sheila<br />
Davies next to<br />
a British flag at<br />
Columbia Icefield<br />
Opposite,<br />
clockwise, from<br />
top left: Ed<br />
meeting the dog<br />
sledding puppies<br />
in Skagway; a<br />
dog sledding<br />
experience in the<br />
snow; Icy Strait<br />
Point in Hoonah;<br />
whale watching<br />
in Sitka; Viking<br />
Orion docked in<br />
Skagway; sailing<br />
the Inside Passage<br />
at night; a sea<br />
otter in Sitka;<br />
Hubbard Glacier<br />
Yakutat Bay; Ed<br />
and Sheila at<br />
Columbia Icefield<br />
32 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 33
COOKING<br />
New York Cheesecake A Viking set-up<br />
sent in by Christine and Christopher Gandy<br />
Your<br />
World<br />
Chicken Pörkölt<br />
A hearty Hungarian<br />
stew rustled up by<br />
Wendy and Nick Atkin-Smith<br />
Chicken Pörkölt Jenny Miah served<br />
her chicken recipe alongside pasta<br />
Poached salmon and Cucumber Salad David Thomas<br />
enjoyed making this Norwegian dish at home<br />
Churros and chocolate sauce<br />
Lynne Morris baked these<br />
delicious Spanish treats,<br />
perfect for dipping in chocolate!<br />
Flavours<br />
of the<br />
world<br />
Our readers have been busy exploring<br />
the world from their kitchens...<br />
Mamsen’s Waffles Everybody’s favourite, Lynne Morris<br />
paired her waffles with fresh raspberries<br />
Alaskan Salmon Ella Mitchell<br />
used a brown sugar glaze<br />
for this baked dish<br />
Goulash Mary Crisp tried creating<br />
this Hungarian classic at home<br />
Borscht<br />
Angie Heini cooked this beetroot-based<br />
soup popular in Eastern Europe<br />
Tarte Tatin<br />
Mrs Baker conjured<br />
up this apple tart, a<br />
staple of French cuisine<br />
Smørrebrød (open sandwiches)<br />
A Danish favourite, David and Louise Harrison<br />
combined salmon gravlax with a mustard dill sauce<br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 35
RECIPES<br />
Japan<br />
TEMAKI SUSHI<br />
Serves 4<br />
INGREDIENTS:<br />
• 200g (7oz) sushi rice<br />
• 60ml (2 fl oz) rice vinegar<br />
• 1 tbsp sugar<br />
• ½ tsp salt<br />
• 1 pack sushi nori sheets<br />
FOR THE FILLINGS:<br />
• Sushi grade fresh tuna<br />
• Salmon roe<br />
• Teriyaki chicken<br />
• Avocado<br />
• Cucumber<br />
• Shrimp<br />
• Wasabi<br />
• Sushi ginger<br />
1. Cook the rice according to the<br />
packet instructions. Mix the rice<br />
vinegar, sugar and salt and stir<br />
through the rice. Allow to cool.<br />
2. Cut the nori sheets in half and<br />
assemble all the fillings, cut into<br />
small 10cm (4 inch) strips.<br />
3. To assemble the temaki, spread<br />
a layer of rice over each nori sheet,<br />
then add fillings to taste. Roll into a<br />
cone shape, and moisten one edge<br />
before pressing to seal.<br />
Croatia<br />
A culinary journey<br />
Join us in creating new dishes that celebrate the<br />
amazing variety of local produce and foreign<br />
flavours from these fascinating destinations<br />
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />
TROLLKREM<br />
Serves 4<br />
INGREDIENTS:<br />
• 2 egg whites<br />
• 6 tbsp lingonberry jam<br />
• 1 tsp vanilla extract<br />
• 1 tsp caster sugar<br />
TO GARNISH:<br />
• Lingonberry jam<br />
Norway<br />
1. Place all the ingredients into<br />
the bowl of a food mixer (make<br />
sure the bowl is really clean).<br />
2.Whisk on the highest setting<br />
until the mousse increases in<br />
volume and forms soft peaks.<br />
3. Serve piled into individual<br />
glasses and garnish with some<br />
extra lingonberry jam.<br />
BLACK RISOTTO<br />
Serves 4<br />
INGREDIENTS:<br />
• 450g (1 lb) cherry tomatoes<br />
• 2 tbsp olive oil<br />
• 2 cloves garlic, crushed<br />
• 450g (1 lb) squid, prepared and sliced<br />
• 2 tbsp olive oil<br />
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped<br />
• 1.2l (2 ½ pints) fish stock<br />
• 2 tbsp butter<br />
• 1 small onion, chopped<br />
• 355g (12 ½ oz) Carnaroli risotto rice<br />
• 150ml (5 fl oz) white wine<br />
• Salt and pepper<br />
• 1 x 4g sachet squid ink<br />
1. Prepare the cherry tomatoes. Blanch briefly<br />
in boiling water, then remove with a slotted<br />
spoon, peel and chop.<br />
2. In a frying pan, heat the olive oil, then add<br />
the crushed garlic and the squid. Sauté really<br />
fast and remove from the pan as soon as the<br />
squid starts to curl. Reserve and keep warm.<br />
3. In the same pan, add a further 2 tbsp of<br />
olive oil and the chopped garlic. Fry the garlic<br />
until golden and then add all of the chopped<br />
cherry tomatoes. Cook gently until reduced<br />
and thickened, then add in the squid. Season<br />
with salt and pepper, then keep warm.<br />
4. For the risotto, heat the fish stock in a<br />
saucepan, then in a heavy-based pan melt<br />
the butter, add the onion and cook for<br />
five minutes until soft without colouring<br />
the onion. Add the rice and stir well,<br />
coating in the oil, then add the white wine.<br />
Cook the rice until all the wine has been<br />
absorbed, stirring all the time.<br />
5. Begin to add the warm fish stock, a ladle<br />
at a time, stirring the risotto constantly and<br />
never allowing it to dry out. Add the squid<br />
ink to the risotto and keep stirring, then keep<br />
adding the stock until the rice is just tender<br />
and the risotto is slightly runny. This should<br />
take approximately 15 minutes or so.<br />
6. Serve the risotto and top with the squid<br />
in tomato sauce.<br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 37
RECIPES<br />
VIKING BURGER<br />
Serves 6<br />
INGREDIENTS:<br />
• 6 sesame-seeded buns<br />
• 6 slices cheddar cheese<br />
• 6 slices pancetta<br />
• Smoky barbecue sauce<br />
FOR THE BEEF PATTIES:<br />
• 900g (2 lb) minced beef<br />
• 1 egg, beaten<br />
• 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce<br />
• 70g (2 ½ oz) dry breadcrumbs<br />
USA<br />
FOR THE ONION RELISH:<br />
• 4 tbsp butter<br />
• Pinch salt<br />
• 6 red onions, sliced<br />
• 175ml (6 fl oz) orange juice<br />
• 100ml (3.5 fl oz) red wine vinegar<br />
• 2 tbsp rice wine vinegar<br />
• 4 tbsp honey<br />
• 1 small beetroot<br />
TO SERVE:<br />
• French fries<br />
• Coleslaw<br />
• Lettuce and tomato<br />
• Sweet pickled gherkins<br />
1. To make the burger patties,<br />
mix the minced beef, egg,<br />
Worcestershire sauce and<br />
breadcrumbs together in a large<br />
bowl. Shape into six generous<br />
burgers, then chill until required.<br />
2. For the red onion relish, melt the<br />
butter in a heavy-based pan and<br />
add in the onions. Sprinkle over<br />
the salt, then cook gently until soft<br />
and translucent, but not coloured.<br />
Add in the orange juice and both<br />
vinegars, then stir in the honey<br />
and the thinly-sliced beetroot.<br />
3. Continue to cook gently until<br />
all the excess liquid has evaporated<br />
and the mixture has thickened.<br />
Allow to cool.<br />
4. Season the burger patties with<br />
salt and pepper, then grill for<br />
about 3-5 minutes on each side<br />
(depending on your preferences).<br />
5. Meanwhile, toast the burger<br />
buns and add a slice of cheddar to<br />
the bottom half. Place the cooked<br />
burgers onto the cheese. As you<br />
remove the burgers, add the slices<br />
of pancetta to the grill to crisp up.<br />
6. Top each burger with a spoonful<br />
of the onion relish and a squeeze<br />
of barbecue sauce. Finish with the<br />
crispy pancetta before adding the<br />
top half of the bun. Serve with<br />
French fries, coleslaw, crunchy<br />
lettuce and slices of tomato, and a<br />
few sweet-pickled gherkins.<br />
TARTE TATIN<br />
Serves 6<br />
INGREDIENTS:<br />
• 100g (3 ½ oz) caster sugar<br />
• 55g (2 oz) butter<br />
• 6 dessert apples<br />
• 2 tbsp butter<br />
• 320g (11.2 oz) puff pastry<br />
1. Preheat the oven to 175°C.<br />
Heat the sugar and butter over a<br />
medium heat until it turns a deep<br />
golden brown. Don’t allow the<br />
caramel to burn.<br />
2. Peel and halve the apples,<br />
scooping out the seeds with a<br />
spoon. Place all the apples in<br />
the caramel and cook, moving<br />
France<br />
them around in the caramel, for<br />
approximately 10 minutes. Next,<br />
in a 23cm (9 inch) diameter oven<br />
proof dish or pan, arrange the<br />
apple halves, rounded side down.<br />
Fill in any gaps with cut apples and<br />
dot with small pieces of butter.<br />
3. Roll the pastry out into a circle,<br />
slightly larger than the pan and<br />
about 5mm (0.2 inch) thick.<br />
Place the disc of pastry over the<br />
caramelized apples, tucking the<br />
edges in all around the dish. Brush<br />
with melted butter.<br />
4. Bake for around 30 to 40<br />
minutes, or until the pastry is<br />
golden brown and the caramel is<br />
starting to ooze from the tart. Leave<br />
to cool for an hour before serving.<br />
38 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 39
FASHION<br />
The<br />
Bright Side<br />
Mix and match your colours for<br />
a fresh new look this spring<br />
Leather purse<br />
White Stuff, £35<br />
Pink chinos<br />
From a selection at Next<br />
Blouse<br />
Next, £35<br />
Sandals<br />
Accessorize, £22.50<br />
Cardigan<br />
Tu Clothing, £20<br />
Paper hat<br />
National Trust, £20<br />
Denim midi skirt<br />
M&Co, £35<br />
Raincoat<br />
Regatta, £75<br />
40 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
Trainers<br />
Marks & Spencer, £39.50<br />
Sunglasses<br />
Oliver Bonas, £24
INTERVIEW<br />
INSPIRING PEOPLE<br />
Debbie Wiseman<br />
The celebrated composer discusses her wide-ranging<br />
musical career, and her inspirations<br />
Did you grow up as part of<br />
a musical family?<br />
There is an unsubstantiated<br />
rumour that one of my great-great<br />
grandfathers may have been an<br />
opera singer, but apart from that, I<br />
was the first in the family to show a<br />
real interest in playing an instrument<br />
– and it was quite a surprise to my<br />
parents because they weren’t musical<br />
at all! From the moment I started<br />
to learn to play the piano at 7 years<br />
old, I think I knew even then that I<br />
wanted to be a musician. By the time<br />
I got a place at the Guildhall School<br />
of Music and Drama I knew I wanted<br />
to be a composer.<br />
How did your career get started?<br />
Although the Guildhall composition<br />
course was a purely classical training,<br />
there was interaction with the drama<br />
department, so I was involved in<br />
some of the productions there. I<br />
knew I wanted to write film and TV<br />
scores, so I put together a showreel<br />
of music and sent it out to hundreds<br />
of directors and producers – pretty much<br />
every film and TV company in the country!<br />
After almost two years I received a reply<br />
from a director who was making a film<br />
for Channel 4. He bravely took a chance<br />
on a new composer and I’ll always be<br />
grateful for that.<br />
Who or what inspires you, and why?<br />
When I’m writing for a film or production<br />
then I have the inspiration on screen which is<br />
a real gift for a composer! When I’m writing<br />
an album, on the other hand, I’ll have a<br />
concept in mind and that will kickstart<br />
the writing process. The Viking signature<br />
music was composed following visits to the<br />
beautiful ocean and river ships – which<br />
was the perfect inspiration!<br />
Who would you like to dine with?<br />
Mozart and Beethoven! I would love to<br />
spend even 5 minutes in their company.<br />
What kind of food do you love most?<br />
I love all types of fish – and simple pasta<br />
dishes too. Why? Because that’s pretty much<br />
all I can cook, except for apple crumble –<br />
and despite my husband’s insistence to the<br />
contrary, we can’t eat that all the time!<br />
Do you have a memory that stands<br />
out from a trip abroad?<br />
I have so many lovely memories, but I<br />
enjoy anywhere that takes me to the sea.<br />
Listening to the sounds of the ocean and<br />
watching the ever-changing waves is relaxing<br />
and invigorating at the same time. It’s no<br />
coincidence that so many great works of<br />
art and pieces of music have been inspired<br />
by the sea.<br />
What was the inspiration for the<br />
podcasts you’ve recently produced<br />
for Viking?<br />
We thought, wouldn’t it be great to be able<br />
to escape virtually for an hour or so and<br />
go on one of the cruises from the comfort<br />
of our own homes! The wonderful cellist<br />
and writer Justin Pearson worked with us<br />
to create this 6-part series which takes in<br />
several Viking cruises, and we’ve built a<br />
light-hearted story around the adventures<br />
and mishaps of musician Elizabeth<br />
Drinkwater. It was such fun<br />
recording the series!<br />
What has been your career<br />
highlight?<br />
Looking back, each project I’ve<br />
worked on has been the highlight<br />
of my career at the time; the next<br />
step along the way, if you like…<br />
I’ve been so lucky to have been<br />
involved in so many brilliant things<br />
over the years – films, TV series,<br />
concerts, Royal events – so I can’t<br />
possibly raise one above the rest!<br />
What are you currently<br />
working on?<br />
I’m writing a new orchestral<br />
album for Decca to mark the<br />
Queen’s 95th birthday, which will<br />
be released in June. It features<br />
music specially composed to<br />
reflect the reigns of 12 selected<br />
kings and queens, culminating in<br />
a celebratory piece for HRH Queen<br />
Elizabeth II. I’ve also written and<br />
will present a show for Classic FM – Music<br />
for Monarchy – which will look at the hugely<br />
varied music that’s been composed for<br />
royalty through the ages. There will be<br />
new scores for the BBC and Channel 4 for<br />
several upcoming television series. All of<br />
these projects were postponed last year, so<br />
I can’t wait to get going again!<br />
From top: Composer Debbie Wiseman, OBE; Debbie<br />
conducts the National Symphony Orchestra while<br />
recording The Traveller at Abbey Road Studios<br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 41
REVIEW<br />
Making memories<br />
From her home in Scotland, Susan Robertson crossed into<br />
the Arctic Circle for an unforgettable adventure<br />
This page,<br />
clockwise, from<br />
above: Viking Sky<br />
illuminated by the<br />
northern lights;<br />
a sledge ride was<br />
one of the many<br />
highlights of<br />
the trip<br />
When I thought about<br />
which memories to<br />
write about I was<br />
spoilt for choice,<br />
but I decided on our last ocean<br />
cruise, In Search of the Northern<br />
Lights. My husband, Andrew, and I<br />
live in the north of Scotland, where<br />
we get very cold and snowy winters<br />
and our friends thought we were<br />
mad going to Norway for an even<br />
colder holiday. However this cruise<br />
proved them wrong!<br />
Having packed all our thermal<br />
underwear and woolly jumpers we<br />
joined Viking Sky in London to<br />
start our adventure. After a relaxing<br />
overnight cruise we woke in<br />
Stavanger. Having visited before on<br />
a Viking Homelands cruise we took<br />
the opportunity to explore more of<br />
this town by ourselves. A trip to<br />
the Oil Museum was a must as we<br />
live near Aberdeen, the oil capital<br />
of Europe. The visit was fascinating<br />
as we were able to relate to a lot<br />
of the exhibits.<br />
With clear blue skies and<br />
no sign of snow we began to<br />
wonder when we would need all<br />
our winter gear. We needn’t have<br />
worried because the further north<br />
we cruised the more snow we saw<br />
and the colder it became. There was<br />
great excitement as we approached<br />
the marker for passing the Arctic<br />
Circle and we all had cameras at<br />
the ready to capture the occasion.<br />
Our certificates are pinned up in<br />
our kitchen to remind us.<br />
The wind was strong so we<br />
sailed on to Tromsø and were able<br />
to enjoy an extra day there. I really<br />
wanted to buy a reindeer hide and<br />
when we went shopping we<br />
were amazed to find that the<br />
pavements are all heated to keep<br />
them snow-free. Feeling full of<br />
energy, we decided to go up and<br />
down in the cable car above the<br />
town and walk back to the ship.<br />
What superb views over the whole<br />
area we had from the top and we<br />
were so lucky to have such clear<br />
blue skies. After a beautiful concert<br />
in Tromsø cathedral we got our<br />
first show of northern lights. A<br />
lovely end to the day.<br />
PHOTOS: © SHUTTERSTOCK<br />
The next day was a real highlight<br />
for us. This was the trip to the<br />
Sámi to find out all about their way<br />
of life and to meet their reindeer<br />
and ride on a sledge. What a lovely<br />
family and so welcoming to us all.<br />
Andrew and I also had a very fast<br />
ride on the back of their skidoos<br />
as father and daughter raced each<br />
other. A bit speedier than the<br />
reindeer sledge!<br />
Our next stop was Alta in the<br />
far north. A day out to see huskies<br />
and experience a ride almost as fast<br />
as the skidoo. Wandering around<br />
the town we were impressed by the<br />
wonderful ice sculptures, especially<br />
a full-size tractor, before going to<br />
the market where we chatted to a<br />
stall holder who travels all the way<br />
from Sweden to sell his goods.<br />
In the evening we set off in<br />
buses to search for the northern<br />
lights. We weren’t sure whether<br />
they would dance for us as the<br />
weather was a bit cloudy but<br />
suddenly they appeared and we<br />
were mesmerised. What a spectacle<br />
to witness. Soon it was time to<br />
board the ship and start going back<br />
down south again but we still had<br />
Narvik and Bergen to look forward<br />
to before the end of the cruise.<br />
From Narvik we had opted to<br />
visit the Polar Park where we had<br />
knowledgeable guides who told us<br />
about the animals. It was wonderful<br />
to see moose, bears, wolves, musk<br />
ox and lynx fairly close by, although<br />
I wouldn’t like to meet any of them<br />
without the fences.<br />
Almost the end of the cruise<br />
but we still had Bergen to explore.<br />
Having been before we decided to<br />
take the funicular up the mountain<br />
and have a guided walk. It was a<br />
beautiful clear day and the views<br />
were magnificent. A fitting finale to<br />
a once-in-a-lifetime experience.<br />
I had one last treat the next<br />
morning – my waffle in Mamsen’s<br />
before we said goodbye to newfound<br />
friends and the wonderful<br />
Viking crew. However, every time<br />
we look at my reindeer hide draped<br />
over the couch we are reminded<br />
of the unforgettable experiences<br />
we had on our In Search of the<br />
Northern Lights trip.<br />
A 13-day 2022 In Search of<br />
the Northern Lights journey,<br />
from London to Bergen, or in<br />
reverse, starts from £3,990pp.<br />
This page,<br />
clockwise, from<br />
above: The Arctic<br />
Cathedral in<br />
Tromsø; an aerial<br />
view of Tromsø,<br />
Norway; a reindeer<br />
was one of the<br />
many animals that<br />
Susan spotted on<br />
the journey<br />
42 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 43
CULTURE<br />
This page: Soprano<br />
Lauren Fagan<br />
debuts as Violetta<br />
in La traviata at<br />
Opera Holland Park<br />
A BREATH OF<br />
FRESH AIR<br />
Opera Holland Park’s Anna Picard celebrates<br />
the company’s new outdoor setting and<br />
introduces the <strong>2021</strong> summer season<br />
Twenty-five years old this<br />
summer, Opera Holland<br />
Park is the only opera<br />
company in London to<br />
enjoy the ease of access that comes<br />
with a central urban location and<br />
the natural beauty of surrounding<br />
gardens and woodland. Its global<br />
reputation is twofold: as a company<br />
that balances stylish productions<br />
of core repertoire and operatic<br />
rarities with year-round awardwinning<br />
community and education<br />
work; and as a place where artists,<br />
creatives and audiences feel<br />
equally at home.<br />
This year there is a fresh twist<br />
to the summer season, which<br />
marks the company’s return to<br />
full productions after a year in<br />
which the arts fell silent. Beneath<br />
the theatre’s iconic canopy roof,<br />
a new 400-seat auditorium is<br />
being built to accommodate<br />
flexible socially-distanced seating<br />
that will be arranged each night<br />
according to the size of the ticket<br />
holders’ bubbles. The space has<br />
been reimagined by the acclaimed<br />
set designer, takis, to maximise<br />
the connection to the greenery of<br />
Holland Park, with an extended<br />
stage, a boutique feel, and<br />
reclaimed and sustainable materials.<br />
The upcoming season is set to<br />
begin on 1 June and sees the return<br />
of music theatre to Kensington<br />
with five full productions by<br />
Opera Holland Park. <strong>2021</strong> also<br />
marks the tenth anniversary of<br />
Opera Holland Park’s famous<br />
Young Artists scheme, which<br />
identifies and nurtures talented<br />
singers, directors, conductors and<br />
designers The first production of<br />
the season, Mozart’s The Marriage<br />
of Figaro, features six graduates of<br />
the scheme, now emerging stars<br />
in their own right. The material in<br />
the opera is juicy: a marriage on<br />
the rocks, a wedding in peril, a riot<br />
of teenage hormones, and some of<br />
Mozart’s most sublime music.<br />
Written in 1786, The Marriage<br />
of Figaro has never grown stale<br />
or fallen out of fashion. Perhaps<br />
because the trials of love, lust,<br />
infatuation, infidelity, jealousy<br />
and reconciliation are so familiar.<br />
In the course of a single hectic<br />
day on Count Almaviva’s estate,<br />
Aguas Frescas, three couples are<br />
united or reunited in marriage,<br />
while a fourth pairing is hinted<br />
between Cherubino and Barbarina,<br />
youngest members of the<br />
household. Expect bursts of insight<br />
into human nature, a faultlessly<br />
constructed comedy, and music<br />
as fresh as a summer breeze.<br />
Of the five works in Opera<br />
Holland Park’s <strong>2021</strong> season<br />
44 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 45
CULTURE<br />
only one has an urban setting.<br />
La traviata is Parisian to its core,<br />
a fierce critique of conventional<br />
morality played out in the French<br />
capital’s hedonistic demimonde.<br />
Verdi’s opera is as much an exercise<br />
in realism as it is a romance. Two<br />
forms of consumption drive the<br />
tragedy: the pulmonary tuberculosis<br />
from which Violetta Valéry is in<br />
remission when we first meet her,<br />
and the conspicuous consumption<br />
involved in maintaining her<br />
position as the most celebrated<br />
courtesan of her age.<br />
Glittering dances and<br />
exquisite arias are contrasted in<br />
this powerful drama of love and<br />
loss. Champagne, cut flowers,<br />
high fashion, gambling, dining<br />
and dancing come at a price,<br />
whether funded by entertaining a<br />
consortium of lovers or a single,<br />
extremely wealthy benefactor.<br />
So, alas, does happiness. Violetta<br />
abandons her apartment, her<br />
friends, her profession for Alfredo.<br />
After three short months in the<br />
country with him, ‘revived by the<br />
breath of love’, her money runs<br />
out. Verdi’s music reminds us that<br />
the city does not care, that its<br />
appetite for distraction and luxury<br />
is unstoppable. Even as Violetta<br />
lies dying back in Paris, longing<br />
for Alfredo’s return, the hedonism<br />
continues outside on the streets, a<br />
raucous mardi gras chorus.<br />
Set in the vineyards and<br />
orchards of Alsace, L’amico Fritz<br />
is another opera in which nature<br />
plays a critical role. Suzel’s gift of<br />
a bunch of violets is the first signal<br />
that Rabbi David’s choice of bride<br />
for his bachelor friend, Fritz, is the<br />
right one, despite their age gap.<br />
Fritz is moved by Suzel’s gesture,<br />
but remains reticent until<br />
David devises a scheme<br />
in which to bring the<br />
lovers together.<br />
Mascagni’s fragrant,<br />
airy writing blossoms into<br />
something warmer and richer in the<br />
‘Cherry Duet’ between Fritz and<br />
Suzel. Laced with charming arias<br />
and echoes of Jewish folk melodies,<br />
this new production of L’amico<br />
Fritz, a rarity in other houses,<br />
marks the welcome return of an old<br />
favourite to Opera Holland Park.<br />
A happy ending is also assured<br />
in Gilbert and Sullivan’s comedy,<br />
The Pirates of Penzance.<br />
Co-produced with Charles Court<br />
Opera, this family favourite is<br />
famous for its wordplay, as romance<br />
blossoms amid the daisies and<br />
willows of Cornwall, despite the<br />
interventions of the police and<br />
the Pirate King.<br />
The space has been reimagined<br />
to maximise the connection to the<br />
greenery of Holland Park<br />
The greenest and wildest of the<br />
five operas in the <strong>2021</strong> season is<br />
The Cunning Little Vixen. Here, two<br />
sets of characters, one human, the<br />
other a cast of animals and insects,<br />
live, love, grow up and grow<br />
older as the seasons change in the<br />
Moravian forest. Chief among the<br />
human characters is the Forester,<br />
who first sees Vixen Sharp-Ears<br />
when she is a cub and wants her for<br />
a pet. Any hope of taming her<br />
is quickly lost. Teased by the<br />
Forester’s children, she dodges<br />
the attentions of a lustful dog,<br />
radicalises the chickens,<br />
humiliates the cockerel and<br />
finally escapes to the forest.<br />
Janáček was too wise<br />
an observer of nature to<br />
sentimentalise his animal<br />
characters but he did<br />
make them loveable,<br />
real and recognisable.<br />
With the accompaniment of<br />
Janáček’s exuberantly rhythmic<br />
score, The Cunning Little Vixen<br />
captures the joys, thrills, fears<br />
and sorrows of our existence –<br />
whether or not we have a tail.<br />
It couldn’t be easier to journey<br />
to Seville, Paris, the Alsace, Moravia<br />
and Cornwall this summer, with<br />
Opera Holland Park.<br />
www.operahollandpark.com<br />
Above, from<br />
top: An artist’s<br />
impression<br />
of the new<br />
flexible seating<br />
arrangements at<br />
Opera Holland<br />
Park; the canopy<br />
protects audiences<br />
from the elements<br />
whilst enjoying<br />
an al fresco<br />
performance<br />
PHOTOS: © OPERA HOLLAND PARK<br />
BECOME A MEMBER AT<br />
OPERA<br />
HOLLAND<br />
PARK<br />
WITH AN EXCLUSIVE<br />
FREE TRIAL FOR<br />
VIKING SUBSCRIBERS<br />
Enjoy a summer of al fresco<br />
opera in our new socially<br />
distanced theatre<br />
The Marriage of Figaro Mozart<br />
La traviata Verdi<br />
The Cunning Little Vixen Janáček<br />
L’amico Fritz Mascagni<br />
The Pirates of Penzance Gilbert & Sullivan<br />
As a member you’ll enjoy exclusive benefits<br />
throughout the summer, including:<br />
◗ £8 off every ticket to our main-stage productions<br />
◗ 10% off all food and drink at the theatre<br />
◗ Discounts across our pre-season events<br />
◗ No booking fees and free ticket exchanges<br />
No commitment or payment necessary.<br />
To redeem visit the Opera Holland Park website<br />
CULTURE<br />
operahollandpark.com/viking-offer<br />
46 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong>
REVIEW<br />
REVIEW<br />
Russia<br />
by river<br />
Chris Purnell travelled the waterways of Russia,<br />
enjoying everything from vodka to ballet<br />
Clockwise, from<br />
above: A stunning<br />
view of Moscow<br />
from the river; the<br />
famous domes<br />
of St. Basil’s<br />
Cathedral; sunset<br />
on the River Volga;<br />
Kizhi Pogost, the<br />
famous site on<br />
Kizhi Island<br />
We arrived at our<br />
ship, Viking Akun,<br />
on a beautiful<br />
May morning.<br />
It was such a lovely day that I<br />
had no coat on and I will always<br />
remember the shudder of one of<br />
the crew members at my bare arms.<br />
She told me “Madam, you are in<br />
Russia!” We later found that she<br />
was the Hotel Manager, the lovely<br />
Karoline. She reminded me often<br />
during the cruise about that first<br />
encounter. That was the start of a<br />
very memorable cruise, a fantastic<br />
experience that turned lifetime<br />
dreams into treasured memories.<br />
Our first full day on board<br />
found us visiting the sumptuous<br />
Catherine Palace at Pushkin. We<br />
were the first group to arrive so<br />
had early access to the palace<br />
and wandered the rooms and<br />
halls before strolling through the<br />
vast grounds. We returned to<br />
Viking Akun for lunch, had a lazy<br />
afternoon exploring the ship and<br />
then on to the Cossack show in the<br />
evening, a fun-filled experience not<br />
to be missed. My husband, Bob,<br />
was persuaded up onto the stage<br />
to join in, great fun.<br />
St. Petersburg is fabulous. We<br />
toured the Hermitage on day two<br />
and although we had been once<br />
before it was still a great treat. An<br />
even bigger treat that evening was<br />
a visit to the ballet. Swan Lake was<br />
performed and was wonderful, an<br />
amazing included excursion and<br />
another forever-memory made. We<br />
returned to the ship quite late and<br />
found that the chef had prepared a<br />
goulash supper for us. Viking really<br />
does think of everything.<br />
A kommunalka visit on day<br />
three was a real eye opener – an<br />
authentic look at how the residents<br />
live. Tea and cakes were served by<br />
our hostess and an interpreter. As<br />
we sailed from St. Petersburg that<br />
night, we had no idea just how<br />
many treats were waiting for us<br />
along the river. The next day we<br />
stopped at Mandrogy where we<br />
visited the open air craft museum<br />
and saw many local craftspeople<br />
displaying their skills. We also<br />
visited the vodka museum which<br />
was eye-popping! So many varieties,<br />
so little time, but we did our best!<br />
PHOTOS: © SHUTTERSTOCK<br />
Kizhi Island the next day was<br />
another lovely experience, the<br />
onion-domed churches and village<br />
buildings were beautiful against a<br />
bright blue sky<br />
– we all took<br />
a lot of photos<br />
that day. Back<br />
on board a sailaway<br />
party had<br />
been prepared.<br />
We all needed<br />
a sleep in the<br />
afternoon, the<br />
extra-large balconies providing the<br />
perfect spot.<br />
The cruise continued with<br />
memories being made both on<br />
and off the ship. The wheelhouse<br />
tour with lovely Captain Vladimir<br />
was both fun and informative. The<br />
scenic cruising for part of every day<br />
was very welcome after the walking<br />
tours. On day seven, we visited the<br />
14th-century Kirillo-Belozersky<br />
Monastery and a local school. It<br />
We also visited the<br />
vodka museum. So<br />
many varieties,<br />
so little time...but we<br />
did our best!<br />
was interesting to note the great<br />
differences between this school<br />
and schools in the <strong>UK</strong>.<br />
One of the most welcome<br />
surprises was on the next day, when<br />
we visited Yaroslavl, a fabulous<br />
city. After a very long walking tour<br />
we arrived at the local market. We<br />
admired the local produce and<br />
as we turned the corner found a<br />
Viking stand, complete with chef<br />
Leonidas and crew, ready with<br />
much-appreciated drinks and<br />
snacks for us.<br />
The next day we arrived at<br />
Uglich, a pretty town with a cluster<br />
of churches alongside the river.<br />
After visiting the churches we were<br />
taken by local bus, complete with<br />
icons, curtains and cushions, to<br />
visit a local family in their home.<br />
We enjoyed snacks and homebrewed<br />
vodka, at 10.30am, whilst<br />
chatting about our lives.<br />
That night we sailed for<br />
Moscow. Arriving at lunchtime,<br />
we were taken on the fabulous<br />
metro system into the city centre<br />
for our walking tour. After the<br />
tour we were treated to a classical<br />
folklore concert – it was such a<br />
wonderful evening. The sound<br />
of Lara's Theme<br />
performed on the<br />
balalaika will stay<br />
with me forever.<br />
We also visited<br />
The Pushkin<br />
Museum of Fine<br />
Arts on the next<br />
day, a real treat!<br />
Our last day<br />
came far too soon but saw the<br />
culmination of a dream I have<br />
had since childhood, to stand<br />
alongside St. Basil’s Cathedral in<br />
Red Square. It didn’t disappoint!<br />
We then toured Red Square, the<br />
Kremlin and the gigantic GUM<br />
department store. This was truly<br />
a cruise-of-dreams, made possible<br />
by Viking, and made even more<br />
special by travelling with lovely<br />
friends, Sue and Carl, who we<br />
met several years ago on a Viking<br />
cruise. The itinerary was fabulous,<br />
the staterooms excellent, the crew<br />
amazing, as usual. Thank you<br />
Viking, we can’t wait to see you<br />
again and make more memories.<br />
A 13-day 2022 Waterways<br />
of the Tsars journey from<br />
St. Petersburg to Moscow, or in<br />
reverse, starts from £3,095pp.<br />
48 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 49
TRAVEL<br />
Love<br />
AFFAIR<br />
Catherine Collins celebrates the<br />
ever-changing views, photographed<br />
on a journey to Norway with Viking<br />
My love affair with<br />
the sea began a long<br />
time ago in New<br />
Zealand where I<br />
was born. We were never far from<br />
it and despite a near miss with it<br />
as a toddler, it became my best<br />
teacher. I learned to swim, sail<br />
and fish in it. I discovered the<br />
delights of moonlight on water<br />
and phosphorescence, and giant<br />
stingrays cruising in the calm water<br />
of early morning and evening.<br />
Our young lives were ruled by<br />
tides and weather; when to<br />
launch and retrieve the boats<br />
featured heavily.<br />
In my early 20’s I moved<br />
to London. No sea. I missed<br />
it terribly, but I embraced<br />
other interests, predominantly<br />
photography and design. Now<br />
I live by the sea again, and it’s<br />
as if I’d never left it.<br />
This page,<br />
clockwise,<br />
from top left:<br />
A view of land<br />
looming on the<br />
horizon; sunset<br />
view from deck;<br />
Geirangerfjord<br />
in the distance<br />
It brought my love of photography,<br />
design and the sea together in<br />
15 days of utter perfection<br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 51
TRAVEL<br />
Above: Built<br />
in 1842,<br />
Geirangerfjord<br />
church is known<br />
for its traditional<br />
Norwegian style<br />
Below: Light casts<br />
beautiful shadows<br />
on the land<br />
From the moment I stepped on<br />
board, I was transfixed by the<br />
beauty of the ship whose every<br />
aspect is impeccably considered<br />
Clockwise, from<br />
top left: The ship<br />
passes serene<br />
rocky bays; a<br />
glimpse of the<br />
midnight sun from<br />
deck; an aerial<br />
view of the ship,<br />
Viking Sea<br />
In 2019, I began another love affair.<br />
I did something I had never<br />
done before. I went on a cruise<br />
with Viking, to Norway, Into the<br />
Midnight Sun. It somehow brought<br />
my love of photography, design<br />
and the sea together in 15 days<br />
of utter perfection.<br />
From the moment I stepped<br />
on board, I was transfixed by the<br />
beauty of the ship whose every<br />
aspect is impeccably considered and<br />
exquisite. But the views completely<br />
blew me away. I don’t think any<br />
photograph or description could<br />
ever do them justice. What could<br />
be more rewarding than travelling<br />
the world in the best floating hotel<br />
imaginable. Thank you Viking, for<br />
being the company you are, and<br />
for giving us the possibility to<br />
realise our dreams.<br />
A 15-day 2022 Into the Midnight<br />
Sun trip, from Bergen to London,<br />
starts from £5,590pp.<br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 53
DISCOVERY<br />
Clockwise, from<br />
above: Damon<br />
and his wife<br />
Hannah; beautiful<br />
Antarctica; Damon<br />
emerges from an<br />
ice hole with a<br />
plankton sample;<br />
Damon (back<br />
row, second from<br />
right) with the<br />
British Antarctic<br />
Survey wintering<br />
team, Signy Base,<br />
1993; Damon’s<br />
1993 diary entry<br />
describing a (cold!)<br />
water polo match<br />
“I when mentioned in<br />
My ANTARCTIC<br />
was an Antarctic diver.”<br />
A simplified description<br />
of my early career, yet<br />
social settings nearly thirty years<br />
after I first successfully applied for<br />
work as a marine biologist with the<br />
British Antarctic Survey, I still feel<br />
a tingle of excitement and the sense<br />
of immense privilege to have had<br />
the opportunity to experience the<br />
greatest wilderness on the planet.<br />
In 1992, I graduated from a<br />
marine biology degree at university<br />
and was immediately plunged<br />
into the extensive preparations<br />
Dr. Damon Stanwell-Smith, Head of Science and<br />
Sustainabilty at Viking Expeditions, reflects on his emotional<br />
connection with this icy wilderness<br />
required for a deployment to Signy<br />
Base in the South Orkney Islands.<br />
With some pleasing symmetry, it<br />
included spending the summer in<br />
the (Northern) Orkney Islands,<br />
training in commercial diving<br />
within the deep and swirling waters<br />
of Scapa Flow. I couldn’t quite<br />
believe I was being paid to explore<br />
this diving Mecca of scuttled<br />
warships and Celtic mystery.<br />
After the course, I spent a<br />
weekend with friends by the coast<br />
on the South of England. It was<br />
October, and we were jumping<br />
in and out of the seasonally frigid<br />
sea, and I was the one complaining<br />
the most about feeling cold. I<br />
was teased about my impending<br />
choice of subaquatic career and<br />
was privately crushed by shivering<br />
doubt that I was making a<br />
monumental mistake.<br />
However, the Southern Ocean<br />
beckoned and I was swept along<br />
with the regimented excitement<br />
of the long flights south, then<br />
boarding an ice-strengthened ship<br />
across the fearsome Scotia Sea to<br />
eventually reach our island home<br />
for the next three years. Myriad<br />
adventures followed – of discovery<br />
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; DAMON STANWELL-SMITH<br />
and self-discovery – with thirteen<br />
colleagues and many thousands of<br />
penguins and seals.<br />
My research investigated the<br />
planktonic, drifting larvae of the<br />
underwater invertebrate animals<br />
that thrive in Antarctic waters and<br />
I immersed myself in endeavouring<br />
to understand their way of life.<br />
However, my overriding memory<br />
of that time is the morning ritual<br />
of donning a neoprene drysuit and<br />
breathing apparatus and lowering<br />
myself through a hole chain-sawed<br />
through the sea ice. Swimming<br />
down, down. I can close my eyes<br />
and it is as vivid as yesterday,<br />
recalling those wind-swept icy<br />
sledge trips to our dive sites and<br />
the calm blue world beneath.<br />
By 2005, my Antarctic love<br />
was expressed through seasonally<br />
working on an expedition ship as<br />
a specialist guide and expedition<br />
leader, indeed where I first met Jorn<br />
Henriksen, now Viking’s Director<br />
of Expedition Operations. Jorn and<br />
I were requested to supervise the<br />
in-water safety of a world-record<br />
swimming attempt in Antarctic<br />
waters by the remarkable athlete<br />
and ocean protection advocate,<br />
Lewis Pugh. Watching Lewis as<br />
he meditated prior to his recordbreaking<br />
swims vicariously evoked<br />
my own profound emotions of<br />
connecting with this wildest<br />
of briny places.<br />
Being in Antarctica is a visceral<br />
experience, and so hard to describe<br />
to those who have not (yet) had<br />
a chance to visit. My partner has<br />
patiently listened to my tales of<br />
polar adventures, yet my words<br />
and the media images of the White<br />
Continent cannot truly convey<br />
its majesty. And so, in 2019, we<br />
travelled South together and were<br />
married, in the old Whalers church<br />
in Grytviken, South Georgia. We<br />
continued on to the Antarctic<br />
peninsula, and it was a joy to see<br />
my wife splash<br />
into the sea for<br />
a most brief of<br />
‘polar plunges’.<br />
Once again,<br />
memories of<br />
diving under<br />
the ice fill<br />
my mind.<br />
I am now sitting at my desk<br />
in Cambridge in <strong>2021</strong>, cocooned<br />
in the pandemic-induced<br />
isolation we have experienced<br />
recently. Remotely, I work with<br />
Viking colleagues to prepare our<br />
expedition vessels in readiness for<br />
voyages next year and beyond –<br />
and I am once again reflecting on<br />
cold waters. My wife has found<br />
that swimming in our local rivers<br />
has been her salvation. I am once<br />
again teased for finding the local<br />
waters rather too cold, and yet I<br />
still dream of the White Continent.<br />
“I am an Antarctic diver.”<br />
54 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 55
DESIGN<br />
Come fly<br />
WITH ME<br />
Having combined a love of the natural world with the art of<br />
needle felting, Susan Beal tells us more about her latest<br />
project, sculpting 100 polar birds for Viking expedition ships<br />
This page: An<br />
arctic tern made<br />
using sheep’s<br />
wool and beeswax<br />
I<br />
have done many different<br />
things in my life, but I’m<br />
happiest making beautiful<br />
things with my hands. For the<br />
past eight years I have been making<br />
lifelike bird sculptures from sheep’s<br />
wool and beeswax using the<br />
simple process of needle<br />
felting. It’s like the best<br />
aspects of carving, painting,<br />
crochet and embroidery<br />
rolled into one.<br />
Needle felting is low tech<br />
and peaceful – no noisy machines,<br />
dust or fumes, no expensive, fancy<br />
equipment. My dogs Bodi and<br />
Tulsi, and cats Elfin and Lili, like to<br />
hang out with me while I work. I<br />
can hear the calls and songs of birds<br />
outside while I sculpt, often the<br />
same species that I’m sculpting.<br />
Needle felting involves using a<br />
special needle with tiny barbs along<br />
its length that, when poked into<br />
wool over and over, felt or compact<br />
the fibers. It’s akin to sculpture or<br />
carving, but instead of removing<br />
Why birds? They’re like flying,<br />
singing flowers and they lift my<br />
heart with their beauty<br />
material as with wood or stone,<br />
the wool is compressed and shaped<br />
into the desired form, somewhat<br />
like with clay, but becoming denser<br />
the more it is felted. Think of<br />
what happens with cotton candy<br />
if you squish it…it’s a bit like that.<br />
Detailed markings are made by<br />
adding different coloured wool,<br />
or by applying lightfast ink for<br />
exceptionally subtle markings<br />
and colourations that are difficult<br />
to achieve with felting.<br />
Much of my inspiration comes<br />
from where I live, in the<br />
house I grew up in, on a<br />
farm in Vermont that has<br />
been in my family for four<br />
generations. I make my<br />
birds in the studio where<br />
my father used to paint.<br />
I grew up in a creative family,<br />
surrounded by my father’s oil and<br />
acrylic paintings, my mother’s<br />
quilts, braided rugs, cushions,<br />
and curtains and, later on, gifts of<br />
handspun sweaters, woven blankets<br />
and needlepoint from my two<br />
mothers-in-law.<br />
We always had lots of dogs<br />
and cats, rescued as strays or from<br />
shelters, as well as horses and cows<br />
on the farm. I hated when the<br />
cats, all excellent mousers, hunted<br />
for little animals, most especially<br />
birds. It broke my heart, though I<br />
cherish the experience of rescuing<br />
and caring for the wounded little<br />
creatures, or comforting them as<br />
they died. But all of it gave me a<br />
great love and respect for animals,<br />
both companion and wild, and I<br />
have never lived without them.<br />
I first began needle felting in<br />
2012 when I received a bounty of<br />
wool fleece after my first motherin-law<br />
passed away. Much of it<br />
was hand dyed using vegetables,<br />
herbs, flowers and fungi. Not being<br />
a spinner or weaver like she was,<br />
I wasn’t sure what to do with so<br />
much wool. Then I stumbled across<br />
a book about needle felting and,<br />
intrigued, decided to give it a try. I<br />
ordered a felting needle, grabbed a<br />
handful of brown fleece, and made<br />
a little brown bird – or an ‘LBB’<br />
as ornithologists fondly call them.<br />
And that was that.<br />
I was completely enchanted by<br />
this unique, relatively unknown<br />
art form. I made another bird,<br />
and another. I made birds that<br />
live on our land – chickadees,<br />
wrens, robins, kestrels, orioles<br />
and nuthatches. Eventually, my<br />
daughter suggested I open an Etsy<br />
shop online. On a whim, I did. I<br />
never intended for it to be anything<br />
but a fun way to honour all the<br />
effort my mother-in-law put into<br />
growing, carding and dyeing so<br />
much wool. Why birds? I’m not<br />
sure, exactly, other than that they’re<br />
like flying, singing flowers, and<br />
they lift my heart with their beauty.<br />
The orders trickled in slowly at<br />
first but gradually increased. I made<br />
birds for friends and collectors, and<br />
endangered birds for conservation<br />
groups. Then Viking contacted me<br />
and asked if I would like to make<br />
100 different birds for their new<br />
expedition ships: penguins, petrels,<br />
terns, albatrosses, loons, pelicans,<br />
eagles, kingfishers, and dozens of<br />
others. It’s a dream come true, and<br />
quite an honour. It couldn’t be a<br />
more perfect way to combine my<br />
passion for art, beauty, animals,<br />
nature, and the environment.<br />
flightofheart.weebly.com<br />
Clockwise<br />
from top left:<br />
A collection<br />
of Susan’s<br />
creations; Susan<br />
in her studio;<br />
the tools used to<br />
create Susan’s<br />
sculptures; a wire<br />
frame used in<br />
the process<br />
56 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 57
DESIGN<br />
Natural<br />
Nordic<br />
Chair and coffee table<br />
From a selection at Nest<br />
Embrace the elements this <strong>Spring</strong> with<br />
a mix of wood and natural fibres<br />
Silver sheepskin<br />
Baa Stool, £80<br />
LSA International vase<br />
Very, £65<br />
Serving board<br />
Habitat, £12<br />
Skagerat deck chair<br />
Nest, £625<br />
Textured throw<br />
Amara, £75<br />
Sheepskin stool<br />
Baa Stool, £399<br />
Rattan mirror<br />
George Home, £20<br />
Coffee table<br />
Habitat, £195<br />
Wooden floor lamp<br />
Soho Home, £295<br />
58 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong>
INTERVIEW<br />
INSPIRING PEOPLE<br />
Ghislaine Wood<br />
The curator discusses her exhibition highlights<br />
and her love of Egyptian history<br />
Have you always been keen<br />
on arts and heritage?<br />
Growing up, I wanted to be an<br />
actress, both my parents were<br />
actors and I thought that was a<br />
normal thing to do. When I got<br />
to university, where I studied art<br />
history, I realised I wasn’t really<br />
committed to acting. You need to<br />
live and breath it and have a huge<br />
dose of luck to get anywhere.<br />
How did your museum career<br />
get started?<br />
After university I briefly went to<br />
work in the City, in a management<br />
consultancy firm, but really hated<br />
it. Fortunately, a friend of mine had<br />
a job at the V&A, and encouraged<br />
me to apply and I got my first job<br />
in the newly formed Research<br />
Department. I loved it and stayed at<br />
the V&A for 20 years.<br />
What has been the highlight of<br />
your career to date?<br />
I have been lucky to work on many<br />
exhibitions and projects and to<br />
work with brilliant people. I enjoyed<br />
being involved in the British pavilion<br />
at the Shanghai Expo, if only briefly.<br />
Thomas Heatherwick’s design was<br />
so extraordinary and the project<br />
really reflected British creativity. In<br />
terms of my own exhibitions, I think<br />
it would have to be the Ocean<br />
Liners: Speed and Style show. It was<br />
such fun to put together and I was<br />
extremely proud of the innovative<br />
scenography. Visitors even took<br />
selfies as if they were on deck.<br />
What inspires you, and why?<br />
I’m reading a lot of science fiction<br />
at the moment – probably to do<br />
with the very strange times we<br />
are in. I love escaping into the<br />
extraordinary worlds created by<br />
the best sci-fi writers. Ian M. Banks<br />
and Margaret Atwood of course,<br />
but I’m also reading Cixin Liu’s The<br />
Three Body Problem trilogy, which<br />
is amazing, and terrifying – not a<br />
comforting read it has to be said.<br />
Who would you most like to<br />
have dinner with?<br />
I would love to have dinner with<br />
my mother who is 90 years old<br />
and has advanced Alzheimer’s.<br />
I would love for her to recognise<br />
us and just chat.<br />
What kind of cuisine do you<br />
enjoy and any best dishes?<br />
I went to Georgia on a trip last<br />
year and was blown away by the<br />
cuisine, incredible dishes with fruit<br />
and nuts, particularly walnuts and<br />
pomegranate. It was all absolutely<br />
delicious – particularly dish called<br />
Phkhali, a vegetable dish featuring<br />
walnut paste.<br />
Do you have a travel-related<br />
memory that stands out?<br />
When I was in my early 20s, I<br />
went to Egypt on my own and<br />
remember hiring a horse and a<br />
guide, and riding between the<br />
pyramids at Giza and the stepped<br />
pyramid at Saqqara. The vision of<br />
the pyramid across the desert is<br />
indelibly printed on my memory to<br />
this day. I really felt like I had gone<br />
back in time.<br />
Any top travel destinations?<br />
I have been to Japan a couple<br />
of times, but I would love to<br />
go back and get out of the<br />
big cities and see more of the<br />
beautiful country, particularly<br />
Hokkaido. Skiing in Hokkaido is at<br />
the top of my fantasy travel list!<br />
What are your current projects?<br />
We are working on a really<br />
exciting new exhibition for 2022<br />
that will mark the 100-year<br />
anniversary of the discovery of<br />
the tomb of the Ancient Egyptian<br />
pharaoh, Tutankhamun. The<br />
show will look at the enduring<br />
influence that ancient Egypt has<br />
had on Western world, from art to<br />
design, architecture to fashion. The<br />
Sainsbury Centre has a wonderful<br />
selection of ancient Egyptian pieces<br />
in its collection, so we are very<br />
much looking forward to working<br />
alongside these collections<br />
and to creating an exciting<br />
major new show.<br />
Clockwise, from<br />
above: Ghislaine<br />
Wood; Ghislaine<br />
loves Georgian<br />
cuisine; the<br />
recent Ocean<br />
Liners exhibition<br />
at the V&A<br />
Museum; Walking<br />
hippopotamus,<br />
1880BC, Egypt,<br />
Sainsbury<br />
Centre, UEA<br />
PHOTOS: ©PIERS MACDONALD PHOTOGRAPHY LTD/<br />
SHUTTERSTOCK<br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 59
RIVERS<br />
The<br />
DOURO<br />
The winding river that weaves its way<br />
through sleepy Portuguese villages,<br />
past historic wine cellars and out to<br />
sea at the city of Porto<br />
Left: An aerial<br />
view of the Douro<br />
River meandering<br />
its way through<br />
the countryside<br />
The Douro was named<br />
‘River of Gold’ by<br />
the Romans and the<br />
Phoenicians, who mined<br />
the precious metal in this arid<br />
corner of Portugal and used the<br />
waterway to transport the ore to<br />
the coast. A more romantic theory<br />
as to the origins of the name is<br />
that the river reflects the golden<br />
sunshine that warms the hillsides.<br />
The Douro rises to the northeast<br />
of Madrid, flowing west across<br />
central Spain before creating a<br />
natural border between Spain and<br />
Portugal for 96km, and turning<br />
west at Barca d’Alva, from where<br />
it flows in a series of gentle curves<br />
towards the Atlantic, just beyond<br />
the city of Porto. High in the<br />
hills, sleepy villages are guarded<br />
by ruined castles and beyond the<br />
sheer-sided river valley sprawl<br />
lavish, whitewashed country homes<br />
belonging to port-growing families.<br />
The navigable stretch of the<br />
Douro has been tamed today by<br />
a series of dams and deep locks,<br />
so ships can sail to the Spanish<br />
border. The scenery is some of the<br />
most spectacular on the Iberian<br />
peninsula, the sheer slopes either<br />
side of the river, lush with vines<br />
producing the region’s port grapes.<br />
Portugal has a long association<br />
with Britain and although the<br />
Romans cultivated grapes here<br />
60 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 61
RIVERS<br />
in the first instance, it was the<br />
wealthy British merchants settling<br />
in the city of Porto towards the<br />
end of the 17th century who<br />
began to produce port. In the<br />
early 18th century, the river was<br />
crammed with flat-bottomed rabelo<br />
boats, each one with a single sail,<br />
transporting thousands of barrels<br />
of port downstream from the<br />
country estates to the cellars at Vila<br />
Nova de Gaia, sprawling elegantly<br />
over the steep bank opposite the<br />
city of Porto. You will still see<br />
the occasional rabelo on the river<br />
today but their purpose now is<br />
solely decorative; grapes are now<br />
transported by truck. In 2001,<br />
the entire region was declared a<br />
UNESCO World Heritage Site<br />
in recognition of its beauty and<br />
historic interest. Porto itself is the<br />
second largest city in Portugal.<br />
The famous metal bridge spanning<br />
the Douro, Dom Luís, is strongly<br />
reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower<br />
in Paris in its architecture; and<br />
the designer, Théophile Seyring,<br />
studied under Eiffel.<br />
A highlight of<br />
any Douro voyage is<br />
a day in Salamanca,<br />
Spain’s ‘golden<br />
city’ and university<br />
town. Tucked away in a quiet, rural<br />
corner of Castile-Leon, a couple of<br />
hours’ drive from Vega de Terrón,<br />
the limit of the Douro’s navigable<br />
stretch, the city’s sandstone walls<br />
and spires blaze in the sunshine.<br />
The university was founded<br />
in the 13th century and was<br />
considered one of the finest in<br />
Europe. The old library houses<br />
150,000 ancient volumes so<br />
precious that visitors are only<br />
allowed to peer through glass.<br />
Most of the towns visited along<br />
the Douro are located in the<br />
rolling hills beyond the river valley.<br />
Bustling Lamego is dominated<br />
The scenery is some of the most spectacular<br />
on the Iberian peninsula, the sheer slopes<br />
either side of the river, lush with vines<br />
by the sanctuary of Our Lady of<br />
Remedies, perched on top of a<br />
hill overlooking the town with<br />
ornamental steps cascading<br />
down the wooded hillside. Figueira<br />
de Castelo Rodrigo is a tiny,<br />
12th-century walled village high<br />
in the mountains, surrounded by<br />
olive groves and wild lavender,<br />
while Vila Real is the site of the<br />
magnificent baroque Mateus Palace,<br />
made famous by the Mateus Rosé<br />
wine labels. Lavish interiors aside,<br />
the palace is set in formal gardens<br />
featuring cedar-lined walkways,<br />
sculpted hedges and serene<br />
ornamental ponds.<br />
The narrow river<br />
valley itself is mainly<br />
uninhabited, save the<br />
occasional hamlet<br />
or whitewashed<br />
house overlooking<br />
the vineyards, which is part of the<br />
joy of sailing here. An exception<br />
is sleepy Pinhão, which has one of<br />
the world’s most exquisite railway<br />
stations, adorned with blue-andwhite<br />
azulejos tiles, depicting<br />
colourful scenes from the port<br />
industry in the 1930s and a reminder<br />
of how dramatically life on the river has<br />
changed over just a few decades.<br />
This page,<br />
clockwise, from<br />
top left: Port<br />
wine barrels,<br />
wine cellar of a<br />
winery in Gaia,<br />
Porto; the blue<br />
and white tiles<br />
so synonymous<br />
with Portuguese<br />
architecture; the<br />
colourful city<br />
streets of Porto,<br />
as seen from<br />
across the<br />
River Douro<br />
Opposite:<br />
The enchanting<br />
back streets of<br />
old Salamanca<br />
PHOTOS: © ALAMY; AWL IMAGES<br />
62 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 63
REVIEW<br />
Rediscovering the<br />
Low Countries<br />
Carol and Jeremy Davies-Webb look back at the<br />
highlights of their trip to Holland and Belgium<br />
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/AWL<br />
In April 2018, seven friends<br />
ventured on Viking Baldur<br />
for the Tulips and Windmills<br />
cruise. We are a diverse<br />
group, friends from 40 years ago,<br />
ex-work colleagues from 20 years<br />
ago and newer Viking friends<br />
(yes, we met on a cruise and are<br />
now firm travelling companions).<br />
We are all based in the <strong>UK</strong> and<br />
we had journeyed to most of the<br />
destinations offered but decided<br />
we would go for the adventure,<br />
relaxation and luxury Viking<br />
provides. What an adventure it<br />
proved to be. Here are just a few<br />
of the unforgettable memories...<br />
We all arrived in Amsterdam<br />
on different flights or by train, two<br />
from “the West Country”, one from<br />
“Up North” and four of us directly<br />
to Amsterdam by Eurostar.<br />
We had all visited Amsterdam<br />
on many occasions but tried to<br />
find something new. And we did<br />
– the Amsterdam Observatory<br />
and Sensational Swing, or A’DAM<br />
Lookout, Overhoeksplein, directly<br />
opposite the main railway station<br />
and reached by a free ferry. Flying<br />
free from the building with nothing<br />
underneath you but a sheer<br />
drop of 100m.<br />
Two days later we were in the<br />
town of Hoorn and were taken on<br />
a walk around the lovely town. At<br />
the end of the walk we went to an<br />
apartment where we were hosted<br />
by two delightful young people,<br />
given amazing coffee and cake,<br />
and we all regard this as one of<br />
the highlights of our trip.<br />
Ghent was a real eye-opener<br />
for us. We had heard of it but had<br />
never visited. What an amazing<br />
town, all very accessible and easy to<br />
get around. We also visited Bruges<br />
and took the opportunity to see<br />
Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child,<br />
reputedly the only sculpture by<br />
the artist outside of Italy.<br />
On the 27th April it is King’s<br />
Day, and we joined in with the<br />
celebrations, with the ladies in our<br />
group wearing orange feather boas<br />
(those feathers surfaced for many<br />
weeks after the cruise), the gents<br />
in orange trilbies. Even a café we<br />
visited in Veere gave us orangecoloured<br />
cakes and coffee.<br />
But the pièce de résistance was<br />
our return to Amsterdam. Two<br />
highlights stood out – a visit to the<br />
Hermitage Amsterdam where we<br />
learnt the story of the Night Watch<br />
and then to the Rijksmuseum to<br />
see the painting in all its glory,<br />
and afterwards, a visit to the<br />
renowned Keukenhof gardens for<br />
the spectacular floral displays.<br />
All in all, an amazing cruise, and<br />
the whole Viking experience was<br />
terrific, as always. We loved all the<br />
new experiences along the way and<br />
we would recommend this trip to<br />
anyone, even if they have already<br />
been to The Low Countries.<br />
A 10-day 2022 Tulips & Windmills<br />
round-trip from Amsterdam,<br />
starts from £1,895pp.<br />
This page,<br />
clockwise,<br />
from top left:<br />
Beautiful orchids;<br />
an interesting<br />
daffodil-inspired<br />
installation;<br />
Carol and Jeremy<br />
with friends;<br />
spectacular tulips;<br />
the Sensational<br />
Swing over<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Opposite:<br />
Windmills dot<br />
the landsccape<br />
64 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 65
BOOK CLUB<br />
JOIN OUR<br />
BOOK CLUB<br />
This page:<br />
Florence<br />
Cathedral stands<br />
out above the<br />
rooftops of the<br />
city that Mark<br />
Twain and friends<br />
visited during<br />
their tour<br />
of Europe<br />
Viking<br />
BOOK CLUB<br />
Each month, we invite you to take part in our Book Club.<br />
Read on for a taster of some of the reviews that<br />
readers have sent in recently<br />
www.vikingrivercruises.co.uk/why-viking/community/book-club.html<br />
WE GALLOPED THROUGH THE LOUVRE<br />
Viking guest Stuart Hannabuss looks at Mark Twain’s travel travails<br />
Many of us keep ourselves going<br />
at the moment by dreaming of<br />
future holidays. Perhaps cruises like<br />
the ones we used to have – great<br />
places, lovely people, super nosh.<br />
‘One day soon,’ we say. We have<br />
our memories, check our diaries,<br />
look again at the pictures. Can’t be<br />
narrow-minded if you travel a lot,<br />
American writer Mark Twain said.<br />
He is the guy who wrote kids’<br />
books Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn,<br />
of course. And much else, including<br />
the travelogue The Innocents<br />
Abroad, published in 1869. A<br />
group of Americans came to Europe<br />
to see the sights, crossed the<br />
Med to the Holy Land (they were<br />
‘pilgrims’ after all), and went back<br />
home again. Ever since, ‘innocents<br />
abroad’ has been used to describe<br />
naïve but determined tourists. We<br />
love this in travel books and films<br />
– think Bill Bryson, Tony Hawkes,<br />
Michael Palin, Michael Portillo –<br />
fun, but stuff that makes you think.<br />
Twain does that too.<br />
‘Florence pleased us for a while’,<br />
he tells us. Too many damned<br />
pictures, too much to take in, and<br />
far too many beggars. The guides<br />
speak bad English and everyone<br />
tries to fleece us. And don’t get me<br />
started on having a Turkish bath.<br />
It was ‘worth a kingdom’ to be on<br />
board ship once more for civilized<br />
company and a good clean up.<br />
Once there, we got to<br />
wondering: Notre Dame was<br />
impressive, Venice too, but with<br />
evidence of decay. Why all this<br />
reverence for old things? America<br />
was the New World and, as the<br />
Yankee told King’s Arthur’s court<br />
in another of Twain’s stories, the<br />
American message was about the<br />
future and not the past, technology<br />
and not chivalry. They deplored the<br />
wealth of the church alongside the<br />
poverty on the streets. They gasped<br />
at the majesty of the buildings and<br />
the awesome antiquity of the ruins,<br />
but found the relics disgusting.<br />
Twain’s tone is equivocal, part<br />
burlesque, part critique, which is<br />
why the book stays in print and<br />
speaks to us today. The actual trip<br />
is never quite what the guidebook<br />
promises: it can be worse,<br />
sometimes wonderfully better.<br />
Twain travelled a great deal<br />
throughout his life, usually to<br />
publicise his books. Once safely<br />
home in New York, he reflects<br />
on the whole trip – ‘the grand<br />
pilgrimage is over’. Maybe things<br />
weren’t so bad after all. We were<br />
all tired but we were happy. Hope,<br />
too, we’re not so narrow-minded as<br />
we were before, broadens the mind,<br />
they say. Sustains the dreams, we’ll<br />
probably go again – somewhere<br />
different this time. One day soon.<br />
YOUR BOOK CLUB REVIEWS<br />
THE OCTOBER<br />
MAN<br />
by Ben<br />
Aaronovitch<br />
I enjoy a good<br />
‘Who Dunnit’<br />
and the fact<br />
that the story<br />
was based in<br />
Germany, a<br />
country I have loved cruising in<br />
with Viking, meant I could not wait<br />
to get started. I must confess to<br />
being a little apprehensive when<br />
realising there was a science fiction<br />
twist. However, I found myself<br />
believing in the main characters<br />
of Tobi and Vanessa and it had<br />
an interesting plot to follow. A<br />
light-hearted approach to what can<br />
sometimes be a very dark subject,<br />
the book certainly stretches the<br />
reader’s imagination.<br />
Ed Davies<br />
Aaronovitch writes detective stories<br />
that have a magical twist and if<br />
you have not previously been bitten<br />
by this strange mix, this one is a<br />
good place to start. The novella is<br />
set in the Mosel Valley near Trier<br />
and has an easy style. It combines<br />
humorous and sharp writing with<br />
a genuine feel for the area. The<br />
descriptions place you firmly in the<br />
steep, shaly vineyards as the vines<br />
are starting to ripen and the tale is<br />
a perfect combination of history,<br />
legend, magic and detective story.<br />
Caroline Maddison<br />
10 MINUTES 38<br />
SECONDS IN<br />
THIS STRANGE<br />
WORLD<br />
by Elif Shafak<br />
The tool of<br />
using the time<br />
between death<br />
and brain death,<br />
10 minutes 38<br />
seconds, was an interesting way to<br />
follow Tequila Leila’s life from birth<br />
to the end. She had a tough life but<br />
throughout the whole book there<br />
is a sense of personal strength<br />
told through her friendships and<br />
loyalties to other people. I want to<br />
go to Istanbul now to soak up the<br />
Bazaar, to watch the people going<br />
about their daily lives and breathe<br />
in the air.<br />
Nigel Meredith<br />
Even if you’ve never been to Turkey<br />
you get a real insight into customs<br />
and lifestyle. Religion and tradition<br />
spread their arms wide and then<br />
pull them in, restricting and ruling<br />
the behaviour of the various people<br />
whose lives we merely touch upon<br />
but who create an impression that<br />
lasts much longer than 10 minutes<br />
and 38 seconds.<br />
Brenda Mills<br />
JOURNEYS IN<br />
THE WILD- THE<br />
SECRET LIFE OF<br />
A CAMERAMAN<br />
By Gavin Thurston<br />
Given the<br />
amount of<br />
horror stories<br />
it contains, this<br />
book is strangely<br />
compelling. It is a scary, enthralling,<br />
addictive read. I found it hard to<br />
put down. It is the sort of book<br />
that makes you glad that someone<br />
else has done the travelling. I<br />
love travelling, and I have been<br />
to some wonderful places, but by<br />
Thurston’s standards I am a real<br />
softie. It is clear that Thurston is<br />
not just a skilful observer of animal<br />
behaviour. Over the years he has<br />
amassed some wonderful material<br />
on his fellow humans, and he tells<br />
it all in a highly readable manner.<br />
Caroline Wickham-Jones<br />
This is not a book I would have<br />
usually chosen to read, but I have<br />
loved it. Gavin’s experiences stayed<br />
with me for a while – escaped<br />
octopus in a car, antics with a<br />
witch doctor, overturned jeeps in<br />
Russia, active volcanoes in Hawaii.<br />
He certainly lives life to the full and<br />
has some amazingly close shaves.<br />
Fiona Fletcher<br />
THE OTHER<br />
END OF THE<br />
LINE<br />
By Andrea<br />
Camilleri<br />
<strong>More</strong> than the<br />
usual murder<br />
mystery story,<br />
this book<br />
includes lots of<br />
detail of refugees landing in Sicily.<br />
Various views are expressed, but<br />
Moltalbano expresses sympathy for<br />
the plight of these people fleeing<br />
war and poverty, which perhaps<br />
echoes Camilleri’s viewpoint and<br />
brings the remit of the novel to a<br />
current and very real human crisis.<br />
Robin Wood<br />
THE THURSDAY<br />
MURDER CLUB<br />
By Richard Osman<br />
I couldn’t wait to<br />
start this book<br />
and I wasn’t<br />
disappointed. It<br />
was like having<br />
a gossip with a<br />
friend. The wit<br />
throughout was tangible and the<br />
plot moves on so fast with so many<br />
twists and turns that you want to<br />
keep turning the pages for more.<br />
An absolute delight of a book.<br />
Bette Haley<br />
This was such an enjoyable book.<br />
Completely quintessentially English<br />
with its gentle humour and great<br />
characterisations. Some of the<br />
characters seemed so familiar. I<br />
am very much looking forward<br />
to a second book.<br />
Andre Du Casse<br />
66 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 67
COLUMN<br />
BACK ON BOARD<br />
with Karine<br />
Executive Vice President of Viking, Karine Hagen, recalls<br />
her recent time on board Viking Star and Viking Jupiter<br />
Clockwise, from<br />
above: Karine<br />
catching up<br />
with the crew of<br />
Viking Jupiter;<br />
Karine serving<br />
Norwegian dish<br />
pølse og lompe<br />
In February, I was fortunate<br />
to bring Finse and Charlie with<br />
me on board Viking Star and<br />
Viking Jupiter for a ten-day<br />
work trip in Kristiansand, where<br />
two of our six ocean vessels were<br />
in warm layup awaiting the restart<br />
of operations. After almost a year<br />
of COVID confinement, I admit<br />
I was secretly looking forward<br />
to delicious prepared meals, and<br />
having my bed properly made<br />
by someone else, but I quickly<br />
discovered that what I had<br />
missed more, much more, than<br />
the luxury of service, or the<br />
comfort of the ships, was human<br />
contact. Being on board, protected<br />
by our health protocol of daily,<br />
simple, non-invasive saliva<br />
PCR testing, gave me a sense<br />
of freedom I had not felt on land<br />
for an entire year.<br />
While our ships have been in<br />
warm layup, our crew has been<br />
busy, keeping them shipshape<br />
and ready to restart at short<br />
notice. Having ships on standby<br />
hopefully only happens once in<br />
their lifetime (and once in ours!),<br />
and as hard as this year has been<br />
on the world, we must try to find<br />
some silver linings.<br />
A silver lining for me – being on<br />
board – was getting to know some<br />
of our crew much better. Heartfelt<br />
conversations about their families,<br />
lives and homes, their childhoods<br />
and growing up in different<br />
parts of the world, allowed<br />
my mind to travel the world,<br />
without moving my body an<br />
inch.<br />
I travelled with video<br />
technician Mahesh, to his<br />
family’s modest mango farm<br />
PHOTOS: © VIKING<br />
in the village of Madhavamala, in<br />
southern India, where his bride is<br />
waiting to meet him for the first<br />
time when he returns home next<br />
month.<br />
He shared with me pictures<br />
of his new family home, and<br />
the Hindu housewarming ritual<br />
of having a cow be the first to<br />
enter the home, ideally “doing its<br />
business inside” as Mahesh said<br />
politely, to bring good luck to the<br />
marriage. Hotel manager Sujith<br />
joined our conversation and said<br />
that in his home town in India, the<br />
cow has to enter backwards for<br />
the luck to really last!<br />
Within minutes of my mind in<br />
southern India, I was transported<br />
to the tropical island of Carabo in<br />
the Philippines, talking with Hilda<br />
about her childhood growing up<br />
on this tiny exotic island with no<br />
electricity, apart from the night<br />
light from the moon and the<br />
fireflies; where their toys were<br />
found in nature; and where she<br />
would hang off the outrigger<br />
on the island canoe – used to<br />
go grocery shopping on the<br />
neighbouring, larger island<br />
– to learn how to swim in the<br />
crystal-clear waters, with an<br />
empty gallon and old rope tied<br />
around her waist as a life vest.<br />
A childhood that was bereft of<br />
material surplus, but absolute<br />
paradise to Hilda and all of us<br />
listening, and a place that is now<br />
top of my travel bucket list after<br />
seeing her eyes shine with delight<br />
in describing her privileged<br />
upbringing and recalling stories<br />
from her childrhood. I wasn’t<br />
actually travelling anywhere<br />
physically but in a matter of<br />
minutes my mind had travelled<br />
around the world.<br />
To fear another person for no<br />
reason, but the air between us,<br />
is a strange mindset we have<br />
all had to live with throughout<br />
the duration of this pandemic.<br />
And I think it has become clear<br />
to many of us, after having<br />
been by ourselves for such a<br />
long time,that human contact is<br />
Clockwise,<br />
from top left:<br />
Celebrating<br />
Valentine’s Day<br />
with Viking<br />
umbrellas on<br />
Viking Star;<br />
Finse and Charlie<br />
make some new<br />
friends; Hilda<br />
encounters snow<br />
for the first time<br />
and tries on<br />
expedition gear;<br />
Carabo Island, in<br />
the Philippines<br />
68 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 69
MAGIC<br />
of the<br />
GREAT LAKES<br />
LAKES<br />
Oonagh Turner explores the natural beauty of the chain of<br />
lakes that lie between the USA and Canada<br />
Like great inland seas, these<br />
bodies of fresh water are<br />
fringed by quaint lakeside<br />
villages, thick woodland,<br />
lighthouse-dotted beaches and<br />
mighty cities. Providing a natural<br />
border between Canada and the<br />
US, the Great Lakes are a series<br />
of interconnected masses of water<br />
that flow from Lake Superior. The<br />
journey starts life as precipitation,<br />
filling up the great scars in the<br />
north American landscape that were<br />
left by receding glaciers. The water<br />
passes the sleepy Canadian villages<br />
of Lake Huron, laps the shores of<br />
isolated islands, meanders down<br />
and criss-crosses the border to<br />
America where it provides a scenic<br />
backdrop for electric cities like<br />
Chicago and Detroit. The water<br />
flows into Lake Erie, the shallowest<br />
of the Great Lakes, before it takes<br />
a plunge over the Niagara Falls to<br />
reach its final lake – Lake Ontario.<br />
The lakes are a natural spectacle and<br />
together encapsulate the essence of<br />
American and Canadian culture.<br />
LAND OF ADVENTURE<br />
On Lake Superior, the northern<br />
shores are peppered with the<br />
expansive national parks of Canada<br />
– Lake Superior Provincial Park,<br />
Pukaskwa National Park – dense<br />
forests that look out over rocky<br />
shores and rolling hills that cater<br />
to keen hikers. The largest of<br />
the lake’s islands is Isle Royale,<br />
home to its own isolated bays and<br />
lakes offering kayaking and scuba<br />
diving opportunities. At Thunder<br />
Bay, keen adventurers can try out<br />
the trails of the Sleeping Giant<br />
Provincial Park, with its sweeping<br />
vistas and towering granite cliffs.<br />
Elsewhere, on the northern<br />
shores of Lake Huron, the water<br />
is sheltered by the land that juts<br />
in and forms Georgian Bay. This<br />
area of land - the Bruce Peninsula<br />
- divides Georgian Bay from the<br />
rest of Lake Huron and is home to<br />
Flowerpot Island – famous for its<br />
bizarre sea stack rock formations<br />
– pillars of limestone shaped by<br />
years of erosion from the elements.<br />
PHOTOS: © ALAMY<br />
Known for its windswept pines,<br />
plentiful fishing and endless<br />
beaches, the summer months are<br />
popular with tourists keen for a<br />
taste of lakeside life out on the<br />
bay. The north of Huron quietens<br />
around September, when the<br />
tourists have left but the water is<br />
still warm enough for kayaking<br />
out among the bay’s 32 historic<br />
lighthouses and 30,000 islands.<br />
Visitors take advantage of the bay’s<br />
aquatic highway and access the<br />
region’s top attractions by boat,<br />
or visit the Fathom Five National<br />
Marine Park – the first park of<br />
its kind in Canada which offers<br />
visitors the opportunity to see 22<br />
underwater shipwrecks, either by<br />
diving or on a glass-bottomed boat.<br />
On Mackinac Island, in Lake<br />
Huron’s US side, a charming<br />
island awaits, known as a haven<br />
for cyclists as vehicles are banned.<br />
Visitors might want to opt for<br />
horse-drawn carriage for an historic<br />
discovery, visiting sites like the<br />
Grand Hotel – a Victorian-era<br />
building with the world’s largest<br />
front porch.<br />
NIAGARA FALLS<br />
Adventure-seekers might also wish<br />
to head for where the water passes<br />
from Lake Erie and funnels into<br />
Lake Ontario, straddling US and<br />
Canadian territory and flowing<br />
under the Rainbow Bridge. After<br />
its lengthy journey, it’s here where<br />
the water rushes and thunders over<br />
three iconic natural waterfalls. The<br />
most spectacular and famous of the<br />
three is Horseshoe Falls, so named<br />
for its rounded formation. The<br />
movement of water and its sheer<br />
power creates a spellbinding mist<br />
that rises and soaks the smiling<br />
faces of every tourist who visits.<br />
Holiday makers can take elevators<br />
to a lower vantage point behind<br />
the falls for a real feel of the falls’<br />
force, with the added option to<br />
board a boat for a closer look.<br />
The dramatic waterfalls marks the<br />
water’s final flurry before it narrows<br />
to all but disappear along the<br />
St. Lawrence River and out to sea.<br />
This page: Fall<br />
foliage on the<br />
north shore of<br />
Lake Superior<br />
70 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong> SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 71
LAKES<br />
Clockwise, from top left:<br />
The ethereal beauty of Lake<br />
Superior; a mesmerising cityscape<br />
on the shores of Lake Ontario; sunset<br />
over Lake Michigan; wild grasses on<br />
the edges of Lake Michigan; the view<br />
of the lakes, as seen from space; a<br />
lighthouse on Lake Erie; Chicago’s<br />
skyscrapers towering over the city;<br />
the clear waters of Lake Superior<br />
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ ALAMY<br />
CITY BUZZ<br />
On Lake Michigan, the bustling<br />
cities that cling to the water’s edge<br />
are the peak attractions and feel a<br />
million miles away from the silent<br />
and hushed shores of Canada.<br />
Chicago is famed for its high-flying<br />
architecture, like the stratospheric<br />
glass-floored Willis Tower, or the<br />
neo-Gothic skyscraper Tribune<br />
Tower, while on street level, wind<br />
tunnels through the streets give it<br />
its affectionate name – The Windy<br />
City. Top chefs and street food<br />
vendors alike put this city on the<br />
foodie map, and every year the city<br />
comes to life with rollicking music<br />
festivals, with thousands making<br />
their way to Chicago especially for<br />
the occasion.<br />
Milwaukee, also on Lake<br />
Michigan, offers much to discover<br />
but is often overlooked in favour of<br />
the dazzling lights of neighbouring<br />
Chicago. Settled by the Germans<br />
in the 19th century, it is to this day<br />
known for its beer-making. It also<br />
plays host to a plethora of museums<br />
and galleris, with state-of-the-art<br />
architectural landmarks like the<br />
Milwaukee Art Museum, and the<br />
Harley-Davidson Museum. Come<br />
evening time, walk the city streets<br />
and you’ll discover a throng of<br />
stylish restaurants.<br />
At Sarnia, Lake Huron’s water<br />
flows through a small gap of land<br />
and past Detroit to make its way<br />
into Lake Erie. Another electric<br />
city, Detroit attracts with its arts<br />
scene and boutiqe, hipster cafes,<br />
galleries and chocolate shops.<br />
Art Deco skyscrapers punctuate<br />
the skyline and at night, sultry<br />
jazz clubs beckon as music floats<br />
down the city streets.<br />
On Lake Ontario, Toronto hugs<br />
the shoreline. A Canadian capital,<br />
the city’s multiculturalism manifests<br />
in its foods, languages, night life<br />
and arts scene, and a spectacular<br />
200 cultures are represented here.<br />
Toronto’s CN Tower is one of<br />
the city’s most iconic structures,<br />
but there are plenty of others to<br />
discover. All the while, the water<br />
of the Great Lakes provides a<br />
mighty backdrop, lazily flowing<br />
on its way out to sea.<br />
An 8-day 2022 Great Lakes<br />
<strong>Explore</strong>r trip from Milwaukee to<br />
Thunder Bay starts from £5,795pp.<br />
Clockwise, from<br />
top right: Niagra<br />
Falls; views<br />
from the Aula,<br />
the stunning<br />
panoramic al<br />
fresco auditorium;<br />
a map detailing<br />
the geographical<br />
location of each<br />
lake, and the<br />
US-Canada border<br />
72 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong><br />
SPRING <strong>2021</strong> | VIKING.COM 73
CITY GUIDE<br />
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; ALAMY<br />
Toronto and<br />
On the western<br />
fringes of Lake<br />
Ontario sits<br />
bustling Toronto,<br />
a multicultural<br />
city where more than 200 cultures<br />
are represented in the city streets.<br />
With residents having roots in<br />
all corners of the globe, world<br />
foods, cultures and customs come<br />
together seamlessly to make the<br />
city what it is. Toronto’s arts scene<br />
is unrivalled, with a bountiful array<br />
of museums, theatres and galleries<br />
like the Art Gallery of Ontario<br />
which features more than 95,000<br />
works, and the shard-like structure<br />
of the Royal Ontario Museum,<br />
which unveils a fascinating history<br />
of Canada and beyond. Elsewhere,<br />
architecture dazzles, with old red<br />
brick juxtaposing against glass,<br />
and King Street West next in the<br />
pipeline with Frank Gehry designs<br />
for twisting skyscrapers extending<br />
up to 289 metres in the sky. Come<br />
evening time, the sun sets and casts<br />
a pink glow across the lake and<br />
twinkling city lights flicker on and<br />
set the stage for its nightlife.<br />
Don’t miss<br />
• Graffiti Alley, south of Queen<br />
Street and west of Spadina, features<br />
seven blocks of vibrant outdoor art.<br />
• Caribana is the largest single-day<br />
parade in North America. With<br />
a route of 3.6km, the festival is a<br />
day-long celebration of Caribbean<br />
culture and heritage in Canada<br />
• Toronto’s CN Tower is one of<br />
the city’s most iconic structures<br />
and offers the best views over the<br />
surrounding landscape. Head up<br />
for sunset and watch as the whole<br />
city bathes in a golden orange hue.<br />
• Perched east of Downtown,<br />
the Distillery District is a<br />
historic landmark and energetic<br />
neighbourhood that once housed<br />
a whisky distillery and today is<br />
visited for its hip bars, boutiques<br />
and outdoor galleries.<br />
Fast facts<br />
Toronto is extremely multicultural,<br />
with a Little Italy, Little Portugal<br />
and Chinatown. All areas are<br />
marked with dual-language street<br />
signs written in both English and a<br />
language other than French.<br />
Canada’s largest city is known for its<br />
cosmopolitan charm, varied arts scene<br />
splendid foodie offering<br />
• There are over 8,000 restaurants<br />
in the city ofToronto, meaning it<br />
would take you some 22 years to<br />
try them all if you tried a new<br />
one every night.<br />
• There are an estimated 10 million<br />
trees in the city's public parks,<br />
streets and squares, from maples to<br />
backyard oaks.<br />
INSIDER TIPS<br />
<strong>Explore</strong> the arts<br />
Discover the bohemian<br />
neighbourhood of<br />
Kensington Market,<br />
where Victorian<br />
buildings house boutique<br />
shops and arts spaces.<br />
Foodie favourite<br />
Toronto’s rich and diverse<br />
food scene is yours<br />
for the eating. Head<br />
downtown to the<br />
St. Lawrence Market<br />
to sample traditional<br />
Canadian dishes.<br />
Above: The<br />
Toronto skyline<br />
is dominated by<br />
the CN Tower, a<br />
communications<br />
and observation<br />
tower<br />
74 VIKING.COM | SPRING <strong>2021</strong>
Welcome to<br />
a better world<br />
Nova New Opportunities<br />
is proud to partner with<br />
Viking, a supporter of<br />
our community work<br />
in London<br />
Since 1983, Nova has been positively impacting people’s<br />
lives. On the grassroots level, we offer adult education and<br />
advice for people to find new opportunities in life and a<br />
family programme with fantastic experiences for children,<br />
parents and carers. In parallel we run a series of events<br />
that bring people together across boundaries to build<br />
connections and learn about and from one another.<br />
Our mission is to build a more inclusive and socially<br />
cohesive society and a better world for all.<br />
We would love for you to join our journey - there are<br />
numerous ways that you can support our growing<br />
portfolio of work.<br />
novanew.org.uk<br />
Please get in touch to<br />
explore the possibilities<br />
mike.volpe@novanew.org.uk
Exploring the World in Comfort... from Home<br />
In addition to the daily livestream sessions and messages from crew and<br />
guests, you can also find an extensive library of enriching content—including<br />
short documentaries, reading lists, filmographies, classical music concerts,<br />
destination-inspired recipes from The Kitchen Table and much more.<br />
Previous Livestreams<br />
Our Viking Family<br />
Destination Insights<br />
Viking Journeys<br />
The Viking World<br />
Cultural Partners<br />
Streaming Live every day at 7pm<br />
Or watch previous livestream videos and on demand programming anytime.<br />
<strong>Explore</strong> our new online destination and plan your next in-home journey.<br />
SEE MORE AT VIKING.TV<br />
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