Explore More UK Autumn 2021

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EXPLORE MORE : WELCOME 3
WELCOME
to Explore More magazine
Dear Explorer,
It’s undoubtedly been a strange few years for us all and it is a welcome relief to be getting
back to some of the things that we truly love. Viking has been at the forefront of making
sure that this transition is a smooth and safe one for everyone. For those of you who cannot
wait to be back on board and start exploring, we have features taking you on journeys
across France, Iceland and Norway, to name but a few. Discover the exhilaration of
watching whales, learn the simple tricks to take better pictures with your iPhone, uncover
the history behind the art on board and discover the dramatic tales of autumn bulbs in
our regular gardening column with Paul Hervey-Brookes. Then there’s a glimpse at Lady
Carnarvon’s new book revealing life behind the scenes at Highclere Castle and we’re also
very excited to be introducing a new regular column, Through the Lens with Alastair Miller.
You may be familiar with Alastair’s beautiful Norwegian nature prints which are displayed
on board our ships and of course he is also to be found appearing on Viking.TV. In our
pages he will be travelling to different destinations with his camera, starting this issue with
a trip to Valletta in Malta. And if that’s not enough, we have an amazing photography
competition to win a Fortnum & Mason hamper. We cannot wait to see all of your entries.
Bon Voyage, or as it is said in Norway, God Tur!
MANAGING DIRECTOR, VIKING UK
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Find out more
about the
Viking Explorer
Society
on our website

6 EXPLORE MORE : NEWS
NEWS
A ROUND UP OF THE LATEST NEWS FROM THE WORLD OF VIKING
Ísafjörður, Iceland
(pictured) is just one of
the stunning locations
on the new Iceland &
Norway’s Arctic Explorer
15-day trip. Discover life
in the far north during
a voyage across the
Arctic Circle and along
the distant shores of
Norway and Iceland
Photo Guttorm Stilén Johansen © Munchmuseet
THIS IS THE
NEW MUNCH
NEW OCEAN SHIP AND THREE NEW ITINERARIES
Viking’s newest ocean ship, Viking Saturn®, will join the award-winning fleet
in early 2023. The 930-guest ship will spend her maiden season sailing three
new itineraries in Scandinavian and Nordic countries, including two 15-day
journeys, Iconic Iceland, Greenland & Canada and Iceland & Norway’s Arctic
Explorer, and the 29-day Greenland, Iceland, Norway & Beyond voyage. In
addition to the three new itineraries, the popular 8-day Iceland’s Natural
Beauty itinerary will make a return starting in August 2023.
SAVE THE DATE – COUNTRY LIVING CHRISTMAS FAIR
HARROGATE (25-28 NOVEMBER)
GLASGOW (2-5 DECEMBER)
Visit our stand or come and say hello
We’re excited to see the brand
new MUNCH museum has opened
by Oslo’s waterfront. It has been
tailor-made to display the world’s
largest collection of art by Edvard
Munch. With a total of 13 floors
and 11 gallery spaces it will be
one of the largest single-artist
museums in the world. Munch has
always been an artist that Viking
has admired and we’re proud
to display the largest private
collections of Munch artworks
outside of Oslo on our ocean ships.
Our “Munch Moments” bring the
magic of this master expressionist
on board, with a daily, interactive
event that showcases several
pieces of his great art curated
by theme each afternoon in the
comfort of The Living Room.
We can’t wait to visit.
munchmuseet.no/en

VIKING.COM 7
SUMMER 2022 DEBUT
Our second expedition ship, the
378-guest Viking Polaris, has been
“floated out”, marking an exciting
construction milestone. Viking
Polaris will spend her maiden
season sailing voyages to the Arctic
and Antarctica; her identical sister
ship, Viking Octantis, was floated
out last December and is set to
debut in early 2022 for journeys
to Antarctica and North America’s
Great Lakes. “We are now one step
closer to our launch of ‘the thinking
person’s expedition,’ with new
voyages that will allow our guests to
explore the ends of the world
and closer to home – in comfort,”
said Torstein Hagen, Chairman
of Viking. Esteemed explorers
Liv Arnesen and Ann Bancroft
will be honoured as ceremonial
godmothers to Viking Octantis
and Viking Polaris, respectively
(don’t miss our review of their
book documenting their incredible
journey skiing across Antarctica
in 2001 in our Book Club pages).
You can see a sneak preview video
of the ships and book voyages at
viking.com/expeditions.
AWARD SEASON
DOUBLE AWARD
For the first time, Viking has been
voted both the number one Ocean
Cruise Line and number one River
Cruise Line by Condé Nast Traveller
in the publication’s 2021 Readers’
Choice Awards. Viking is the only
cruise line with the top scores in
two categories in the same year –
a distinct honour awarded by
Condé Nast Traveller readers.
Photo Under the Wave off Kanagawa(‘The Great Wave’) from the series Thirty - six Views of Mt. Fuji (1831) by
Katsushika Hokusai (1760 – 1849). Colour woodblock print. © The Trustees of the British Museum.
HOKUSAI: THE GREAT
PICTURE BOOK OF
EVERYTHING
Our cultural partner, The
British Museum, has just
opened an exciting new
Hokusai exhibition featuring
103 recently acquired drawings.
Until January 30th, 2022
WE’RE THE FAVOURITE
RIVER CRUISE LINE
We’re delighted to announce that
we received the award for Favourite
River Line at the prestigious Wave
Awards. As the Wave Awards annually
celebrates the very best of the UK’s
travel industry, it was a special moment
for us. We are proud to receive this
honour and we would like to take the
opportunity to thank all of our guests
for their continued support.
COMPETITION Visit https://bit.ly/Hokusai-Jigsaw and enter
your details before December 5th, 2021 for a chance to WIN one of
5 jigsaw puzzles of Hokusai’s ‘The Great Wave’. Terms and conditions apply.

8 DESTINATIONS : NORTHERN EUROPE

VIKING.COM 9
A cultural
voyage
The highlights from a Viking Homelands cruise
Words Caroline Hendrie

10 DESTINATIONS : NORTHERN EUROPE
BERGEN IS A CHARMING CITY, ENCIRCLED BY MOUNTAINS
WITH BRIGHTLY COLOURED HISTORIC MERCHANTS’
HOUSES ON THE WATER’S EDGE
It isn’t hard to see why Ålborg topped a poll to be
named Europe’s happiest city. At the bottom of
Viking Sea’s gangway on the attractive waterfront,
yards from the dazzling new Musikkens Hus (home to
the Ålborg Symphony Orchestra), a smiley man in a
flat cap was waiting. Lars, a jovial, retired journalist,
was our guide on a merry morning’s pub crawl to taste
locally brewed beers from our own souvenir tasting
glass, while admiring the architecture of every period
from medieval times to the 21st century. Our first stop
was the John Bull – a lottery win allowed the owner
to fulfill his lifelong ambition to own a pub! But
my favourite pub on our tour was the Missing Bell,
fitted out with the pews, pulpit and stained glass of
a deconsecrated English church, where we sampled
soused herrings on rye bread with a chaser tot of
Ålborg Akvavit, Denmark’s leading brand of schnapps.
After our tour, my partner and I decided to walk to
the light-filled, white marble museum of modern art
designed by the famous Finnish architect Alvar Aalto.
A pleasant stroll became quite surreal when I heard
Cliff Richard’s classic hit Living Doll booming out of
an oak tree on the way. Was it the effects of a craft beer
too many? No, my ears were not deceiving me, this
was the Park of Music where artistes commemorate
their performance in Ålborg by planting a tree and
passers-by can press a button and hear their favourites
singing loud and clear. Skipping from tree to tree,
I set off medleys by Prince, Tom Jones, Bob Dylan,
Katherine Jenkins, Katie Melua, Ray Charles and lots
and lots more until I felt quite giddy with joy. Our day
in Ålborg was an unexpected highlight of an exciting
15-day Viking Homelands voyage from Bergen to
Stockholm, brimming with stunning Scandinavian
scenery and capital cities on the Baltic Sea. On this
port-intensive cruise our first night was spent docked
in Bergen, once the centre of the Hanseatic League
trading empire. It is a charming city, encircled by
mountains with brightly coloured historic merchants’
houses on the water’s edge. We had plenty of time to
‘climb’, whisked up on the funicular before meeting
the goats whose job is to munch on foliage that might
otherwise spoil the panoramic views. We walked back
down to the ship on paths through the wooded slopes
and pretty streets, then got to know our floating
home for the next two weeks.
Sailing on Viking Sea is like checking in to a Nordic
boutique hotel. The lobby – called the Living Room
– is two decks high, light and airy, with an emphasis
on natural materials. Not only blond wood and wool
throws, but a living carpet, composed of lichens and
stones inspired by Norway’s landscape. There are quiet
corners for reading and drinking coffee by day, and
musical performances in the evening as well as Munch
Moments, daily at 6pm, when musicians play pieces
by Edvard Grieg while a gallery of works by Edvard
Munch are projected on to a screen. This became my
favourite stop on our return from excursions ashore.
Familiarising myself with the ship on a pre-dinner
stroll on the first evening, I also discovered a museum
on the legacy of the Vikings. Did you know that the
logo for Bluetooth wireless technology is a bind rune?
That is to say the amalgamation of the two initials in
the Old Norse alphabet of the 10th-century Danish
King Harold Bluetooth. No? Neither did I. Another
interesting exhibit explains the events depicted in

Previous spread
The Bergen
cityscape,
surrounded by the
seven mountains
This page
The splendid
waterways of
Norway form
a dramatic
backdrop to
the Viking
Homelands cruise

Clockwise from top
Sweden’s capital
Stockholm is made up
of 14 islands and is
home to a staggering
50 bridges; The Little
Mermaid sits in the
harbour at Copenhagen;
A kaleidoscope of colour
in the iconic architecture
of St Petersburg

VIKING.COM 13
WE FEASTED ON TREATS, SUCH AS HERRING WITH RYE
BREAD AND HEART-SHAPED WAFFLES
the Bayeux Tapestry. Why? Because William the
Conqueror and his army were Norsemen, Vikings
who settled in Normandy, of course.
Viking Sea has two alternative restaurants in addition
to the main dining room, Manfredi’s Italian and The
Chef’s Table which offers tasting menus that change
every three days. We made sure to try the Scandinavian
menu, in keeping with our surroundings. Unusually
for ocean ships, there is no supplement for The Chef’s
Table or Manfredi’s. Complimentary wine and beer
come with lunch and dinner, Wi-Fi is free, and one
excursion is included in every port (along with ones
you can book at extra charge) – just like on Viking’s
large fleet of longships that sail the world’s rivers.
After a relaxing evening listening to a violin recital
of music by Norwegian composer Ole Bull in The
Star Theatre, and a dreamless night in our restfully
decorated balcony cabin, we awoke to wisps of mist
rising from the deep water of Eidfjord. Soon the sun
was shining on waterfalls spilling down the steep, pineclad
mountains into the fjord. Our included tour took
us by coach up the valley to Hardangervidda Nature
Centre where goats grazed on the roof of the gift shop!
The next morning we arrived in our third and final
Norwegian port, Stavanger, the oil-rich city with a
winning combination of quaint old and gleaming
new architecture. Our included walking tour took us
straight to the Petroleum Museum, a steel structure
on the water resembling an oil platform. It was a
revelation to discover how attractive drill bits can be!
In the Old Town, the world’s only Canning Museum
housed in a 19th-century factory could not have
been more different. Here we had the opportunity to
practice the tricky art of packing sprats and to buy
‘vintage 2010’ sardines, a steal at £14 a tin.
That evening we skipped an evening of fine dining
to join six other guests at Sauna Night in The Spa.
Under the guidance of Norwegian therapist Maria,
we brushed ourselves vigorously with bristles until
our skin tingled, ran in and out of the sauna, snow
grotto and steam room, hot to cold to hot, then
thwacked each other with leafy birch twigs until
the pore-closing, heart-stopping finale. One by one
we stepped forward to pull the chain to up-end a
wooden bucket above our heads to be drenched in
cold water. I clutched my face in a passable imitation
of the tortured soul in Munch’s iconic painting, The
Scream! This was a truly immersive Scandinavian
experience that I highly recommend.
My favourite spot on Viking Sea for a leisurely
breakfast was Mamsen’s. It set us up perfectly to potter
around Copenhagen on our own including a pleasant
walk along the waterfront, past the crowds paying
homage to the Little Mermaid. Back on board we
spent the afternoon browsing the magnificent books
in the Explorers’ Lounge with a break for a lavish
afternoon tea in the Wintergarden. The included tour
from the port of WarnemÜnde is a day trip to Berlin.
By chartering a train, some 750 of Viking Sea’s 930
passengers took the three-and-a-half-hour rail journey
each way. Armed with maps provided by Viking and
fortified by the local speciality of currywurst (sausages
and chips in spicy sauce), we had four hours to scoot
round Checkpoint Charlie, remnants of the Berlin
Wall, the Reichstag and Brandenburg Gate and linger
at the deeply moving Holocaust Memorial. Likewise,
the days in Tallinn, Helsinki, and the overnights in St.
Petersburg and Stockholm were perfect for revisiting
favourite spots in interesting and very different cities.
All great reasons to take a Viking Homelands cruise on
delightful Scandi-chic Viking ships.
A 15-day 2023 Viking Homelands cruise from Stockholm to Bergen, starts from £5,040pp viking.com

36 explorer: section
THE WALLED CITY
MEDIEVAL
BEAUTY
Words John Wilmott

destinations : dubrovnik 35

00 explorer: section

explorer: VIKING.COM section 00 17
THE VISTAS DOWN ON THE HANDSOME
STONE BUILDINGS AND ACROSS THE RED
ROOFS ARE UNFORGETTABLE
What must be one of the finest
walks around the Adriatic takes
quite an effort, even though it
is barely 2km long. Dubrovnik in Croatia is
one of few cities rimmed completely by intact
medieval walls and a hike around the top of
the fortifications is almost a duty for those
with a fair degree of fitness. Puffing up and
down the steps brings great rewards – the
vistas down on the handsome stone buildings
and across the red roofs to the blue sea and
green isle of Lokrum are unforgettable.
This compact city dates back to the 12th
century and although many buildings were
destroyed by an earthquake in the 17th
century, they were replaced with even more
precious architecture, particularly in the
Baroque style. It must have been so easy for
UNESCO to bestow Dubrovnik with World
Heritage status. Everyone enters the city
through the drawbridge-protected Pile Gate
– and suddenly you are transported into a
different world. The main street, Stradun,
starts here, its limestone pavement worn shiny
by the feet of millions across the centuries.
You’ll immediately see one of my favourite
monuments, Onofrio’s Fountain, its 16 sides
each featuring a carved mask and spout.
Off Stradun, which is lined with little shops
and cafés, alleyways rise steeply on one side
and disappear into a maze of tiny streets on
the other. As you explore, your guide will
point out the wealth of treasures such as the
very grand Rector’s Palace, the Franciscan
Monastery with distinctive bell tower and the
little Renaissance St. Saviour Church. The
impressive Assumption Cathedral at the end
of Stradun is a most appropriate focal point
for the city. I also like to wind my way through
to the diminutive City Harbour, a sanctuary
for pleasure and fishing boats. Quite a few
scenes from Game of Thrones were filmed in
Dubrovnik. Descend the Jesuit Staircase and
you’ll be following in the footsteps of Cersei
Lannister on her infamous walk of shame.
For lunch, the various alleyways conceal an
array of cafés and restaurants with tables in
the street. But if you have free time, I have
two strong recommendations. Make your way
to the upper part of the city and just beyond
the walls is the lower station of the cable car.
A gondola will whizz you up the hill, from
where the view down to the city will give you a
deep appreciation of why Dubrovnik attracts
so many visitors from around the world.
Go back out of Pile Gate and you can’t miss
Fort Lovrijenac, a formidable structure atop a
giant rock. A full investigation involves more
steep steps, but again offers the promise of a
magnificent panorama of the walled city. You
may wish to round off your day with a spot of
shopping for Croatian art and ceramics, local
olive oil, lavender products and jewellery.
Those fortunate enough to have visited the
city before could join an excursion to Cavtat, a
sweet little seaside town with an inviting, treeshaded
promenade that’s perfect for strolling
and coffee-sipping. But for those who have
never been to Dubrovnik, you are in for some
marvellous medieval magic.
Opposite
The distinctive
red roofs and
domes of the
Dubrovnik skyline
Above Aerial view
of the harbour;
Fort Lovrijenac
An 8-day 2022 Venice, the Adriatic & Greece cruise visiting Dubrovnik, starts from £2,690pp viking.com

This page
The Douro River
meandering its
way through
the countryside,
with vineyards
adorning the
hillsides

INTERVIEW : PORTUGAL 19
PORTUGAL
RIVER
of gold
Interview with Laurent Ferros
BIOGRAPHY
Laurent Ferros
joined the Viking
family as business
support manager
over 10 years
ago, cementing a
successful career in
international travel
What was the standout
feature of Lisbon for you?
Lisbon is the feature – the
Portuguese have managed
to restore and preserve
their city and today it looks
like new. I spent a lot of
time in Portugal during my
childhood and remember a
very run-down country.
I am honestly very happy
to see how Portugal has
not only been salvaged,
but restored. The
monuments and heritage
are preserved and it’s now
a top worldwide travel
destination – amazing.
Although it’s not flat and there are some challenging
cobbled streets, Lisbon is a great walking city. It is
fairly small so everything is reachable by foot. Just walk
a couple of minutes away from the beautiful Tivoli
hotel (la grande dame of the hotels in Lisbon, where
you reside for 2 days) and you will be in a different
block – each has its own identity. My personal
standout is possibly the Mouraria part of the city -
home of the fado. I managed a long-time ambition of
mine to listen to traditional fado in a fado club.
Some say the Douro is one of the most beautiful
navigable river in Europe? Do you agree? Yes it is!
The scenery is just beautiful, and ever-changing – you
feel most of the time that you’re in the middle of
nowhere – in the middle of calm, silence and nature. It
is a remote part of the country with almost no villages.
It’s very special sitting on your veranda or on the sun
deck or just seeing this landscape from your bed,
waking up and being taken by the beauty of it all: bliss!
You could visit so many amazing historical
buildings. Which was your favourite and why?
Since I was young, I have always been fascinated by
churches and religious art – the architecture, the
atmosphere, the decorations. I do believe that
Portugal possesses the most beautiful and imposing
decorated churches in the world. When I visited
the Church of San Roque (part of the Bairro Alto
included tour) I just wondered how this has all been
possible. In one chapel the paintings are not paintings
at all, but tiny mosaics. The craftsmanship is equal to
none. I thought I had seen it all, until the Porto hike
which ends with a visit to São Francisco Church.
Here the only thing you can do is take a seat and just
take it all in. I was mesmerised by such an interior.
This made me relive the feeling of seeing my first
church in Portugal – it was unforgettable.
How did you feel when you saw the
terraced vineyards for the first time?
My first reaction to the view was surprise,
wondering how they managed to grow wine
here. The landscape is wonderful and it’s so
beautiful driving along the vineyards. I believe
this Douro wine region is so underrated. I advise
anyone to make sure they get the Silver Spirit
Beverage Package to enjoy some of the great
Portuguese wines on offer. I recommend Altano
and M.O.B Vinha Senna, 2017 which are both
great wines – Senna being my favourite and well
worth sampling on your trip on board. I often go

20 INTERVIEW : PORTUGAL
Clockwise from left
Colourful flowers in
the streets of Lisbon;
Salamanca Old Town;
The spectacular
Mateus Palace
in Vila Real
to South America for my
red, but I was proven on
this trip that Portugal
offers many great wines!
What was the highlight
of the trip for you?
Without any doubt the
visit to Favaios – a real
close encounter with
the rural Portugal that I
remember from holidaying
in my Grandma’s Village.
The cobbled narrow street,
stone houses, the decorated church for the celebrations
of the city, the villagers and the animals running loose.
As soon as I walked into the bakery memories came to
mind of when my Grandma took me to the baker as a
child to buy the daily bread for me and all my cousins.
I was always treated to a warm one by the baker to
eat on way home – and that is exactly what happened
at the bakery – she gave all of us a trigo (small bread)
which was warm to eat with cheese and Moscatel
wine from the region. We then visited the co-op that
produce the Moscatel wine and then we headed off to
Quinta de Avessada where we were treated to a proper
Portuguese lunch that reminded me of my mum’s or
grandma’s dishes. It also included a shot of Aguardente
(Portuguese Grappa – try at your own peril!). This
is how close you will get to Portuguese rural culture
which is still thriving across the country – be ready
to enter unfamiliar surroundings, but do take it
all in – it is an authentic experience.
What advice would you give to someone
about to go on this incredible journey?
Be open-minded and try everything. Portugal still has
old traditions and culinary recipes, and you might not
have any other occasion to try these again. Go and
explore – certainly when you’re in Lisbon and Porto –
there really is so much to discover. If you can extend
your trip either way in Lisbon you can experience
Sintra which has one of Europe’s famous palaces,
with a vivid painted exterior and an interior restored
to how it looked in 1910 – this is optional when
you take the pre-extension – and if you choose the
post-extension you will visit another beautiful city
of Portugal that I hold close to my heart, Braga.
Are there any local dishes you would recommend?
Salted cod, salted cod, salted cod! Bacalhau – if there is
a place to sample it, it’s Portugal. There are millions of
recipes but possibly my favourite one is Bacalhau com
Natas (with creamy mash) or Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá
(with potatoes and egg). On your trip from Lisbon to
Coimbra you have the choice of a main of Bacalhau
con Natas. Try it! Caldo Verde – cabbage soup,
Cozido à Portuguesa (beef stew) served at the Favaios
included lunch. The unmissable Pastéis de Natas. But
also, if you are more daring, go to a proper bakery and
try some of the ones we used to eat that are still sold
today, like Bolo de Arroz or Palmier with or without
cream, Toucinho do Céu (the last one is specific of
Guimaraes and if you go on the optional Guimarães
you will have the opportunity to sample a few more).
Did anything happen that you weren’t expecting?
Yes! The Captain treated us to an impromptu sail
on the first evening to the Estuary of the Douro
and Atlantic Ocean during dinner – we were only
supposed to start sailing the next day!
Can you tell us something about the experiences
you had on board during the cruise?
It was a truly amazing on board experience. Everyone
made sure that we had a great time. I was injured just
before the trip and had to have my arm in a sling – to
make it easier for me my food had been pre-cut by the
chef, yet was still presented as though it were coming
from a top establishment… Also, at breakfast, waiters
were ready to select and carry my plate whilst going
round the buffet. My pain was somehow forgotten
(maybe with the help of a few glasses of Port!).

VIKING.COM 21
ITINERARY
PORTUGAL
DAY 5 / BARCA D’ALVA, PORTUGAL
Sail east along the Douro. See dramatic,
sheer rock formations, picturesque terraced
vineyards and graceful bridges and in the
afternoon enjoy a tour to Castelo Rodrigo.
DAY 6 / SALAMANCA, SPAIN
Today you have a full-day excursion to
Salamanca, Spain. This ancient city is
a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
DAY 7 / PINHÃO, PORTUGAL
This morning we sail west along the Douro.
Join a scenic drive up to the little village of
Favaios, and make your way to one of the last
traditional bakeries in the Douro River Valley.
DAY 8 / RÉGUA, PORTUGAL
DAY 1 / LISBON, PORTUGAL
Welcome to Lisbon! Relax in the afternoon
and evening or explore the city on your own.
DAY 2 / LISBON, PORTUGAL
Embark on a half-day tour of Lisbon. Guests
sailing on Viking Osfrid or Viking Torgil will
begin at Belém with a tour of Jerónimos
Monastery, one of the most prominent examples
of Portuguese late Gothic Manueline-style
of architecture. Guests sailing on Viking
Hemming and Viking Helgrim will enjoy a
guided tour of the Maritime Museum,
located in the monastery’s West Wing.
Disembark for a visit to Lamego, a small town
known for its baroque Sanctuary of Our Lady
of Remedies, dating back to the 14th century
and still used by pilgrims today.
DAY 9 / PORTO, PORTUGAL
Take a city tour of Porto. Admire its
graceful bridges, grand cathedral and
romantic 16th- to 19th-century buildings
nestled together on narrow cobblestone
streets. Then enjoy a farewell dinner.
DAY 10 /PORTO, PORTUGAL
After breakfast, it’s time to head to the airport.
DAY 3 /PORTO, PORTUGAL
Take a scenic ride to Porto with lunch in
Coimbra, the birthplace of six Portuguese
kings. In the evening, join an optional tour
to experience culinary delights at Porto’s
famed Graham’s 1890 Lodge and sample a
selection of their award-winning ports.
DAY 4 / RÉGUA & PINHÃO, PORTUGAL
This morning sail along the Douro, arriving at
Régua in the early afternoon. Visit Vila Real,
site of the extraordinary Mateus Palace. Visit
one of the area’s iconic port wine–making
institutions to see how they are crafted, then
sample the libation in their tasting room.
A 10-day 2022 Portugal’s River of Gold cruise from Lisbon to Porto, Portugal, from £2,445pp viking.com

22 VIKING.COM
Finding
AWE
Moments of awe that will stay with us for a lifetime
Words Lesley Bellew

ICELAND : WHALE WATCHING 23
AWE MAKES US FEEL SMALL – WHEN
THESE PLAYFUL GENTLE GIANTS
SURROUNDED US IT WAS HUMBLING
Psychologists say a moment’s awe plays
a big role in our health, happiness
and wellbeing. After 90 minutes of
watching humpback whales play alongside
our inflatable RIB in the deep, clear waters
of the Westfjords, in Iceland, I can safely say
they are right. Awe changes us.
Local boat owner Sigurour whizzed our
group of eight Viking Jupiter passengers
from sleepy Ísafjörður into the Denmark
Strait and within 15 minutes we saw
the distinctive spray of humpback
whales. Not just one but two, three,
four, five and more. And that’s when
the distinction between the emotion of
awe kicked in (rather than inspiration
or surprise). Awe makes us feel small –
and when these playful gentle giants
surrounded us it was the most humbling
connection with ocean life that anyone
could experience. We were in the whales’
hands, so to speak, and they embraced us
in their social harmony, singing to each
other (or maybe us) in choruses of deep,
low moans alongside plenty of huffing
and puffing. Sigurour explained that
the pod knew his boat and recognised
the sound of the propeller, whether it
was on or off. They were not in the least
afraid. It’s quite simple on reflection – if
these highly intelligent mammals can
remember specific points in the world’s
oceans, and return to the same feeding
spot every year, it would not take much
to remember Sigurour’s boat! Up close
we could distinguish the humpbacks’
different sizes, their markings and colour
variations from pure white to solid black
on their tail fluke, each one unique, like a
fingerprint said Siguour as we counted up
to 12 humpbacks within our view.
The whales glided through the water,
each one the size of a single-decker bus,
powerful swimmers skimming our boat
in a guard of honour before breaking off
to flex their butterfly-shaped flukes up,
then down, to dive deep for a shrimp feast
on the sea bed. They would sometimes be
down for more than five minutes and we
sat silently wondering where they would
come up, often rising some way ahead
and letting out air with a triumphant,
noisy blow creating their giant signature
spray of mist. Here, on the edge of the
Arctic Circle, where waterfalls create
rainbows as they run down the side of
flat-top mountains, we sat stunned by
the spectacle we had just witnessed. This
was not just a moment of awe, but 90
minutes of pure magic. Back on Viking
Jupiter we celebrated with a strong
aquavit, raising our glasses to ‘Good
Health’ revelling in the knowledge that
such a close encounter was not only a rare
privilege but these priceless moments of
awe will stay with us forever.
Iceland’s Natural Beauty 2023 eight-day round-trip from Reykjavík, from £2,790pp viking.com

00 24 explorer: ITINERARY : ICELAND section explorer: section 21
ITINERARY
ICELAND’S MAJESTIC LANDSCAPES
DAY 1&2 / BERGEN, NORWAY
Encircled by majestic mountains, fjords and
glaciers, Bergen was home to Viking Sagas.
With your ship berthed next to Bryggen wharf,
a UNESCO Site, you can easily stroll along
the waterfront. Mingle with the locals and
dine ashore, as we will be spending the night
in port. On the second day, wake in Bergen
and further explore this Norwegian treasure.
See the beautiful 18th-century wooden
houses, and visit the Hanseatic Museum
on your included tour. Perhaps take an
excursion to Troldhaugen, the home of Edvard
Grieg, Norway’s famous composer. Or take a
trip to the top of Mt. Ulriken, where you
can savor an Ulriken bun, a cinnamon pastry,
with a view that is equally as indulgent.
Gain an insider’s view of Norway’s
shipbuilding culture and fish farming
industry on our optional excursion.
DAY 3 / FLÅM, NORWAY
Through breathtaking fjords, your ship
glides into the village of Flåm. Spend the day
soaking up majestic views – from Vassbygda
Lake to picturesque Vassbygdi and Aurland.
Board the famous Flåm Railway for a train
ride that climbs nearly 3,000 feet. Stop at
the Kjosfossen waterfall and continue to the
Mølstertunet open air museum, in Voss. Lunch
on the famed Stalheim Hotel’s veranda, and
gaze at the Naerøyfjord, a UNESCO Site.
DAY 4 /ÅLESUND, NORWAY
Admire Ålesund’s colourful Art Nouveau
façades by foot. After the city was destroyed
by a fire in 1904, it was rebuilt with the
support of German Kaiser Wilhelm, who often
vacationed here. The architectural style of
the day, Jugend, prevails in the town centre.
Alternately, you may visit spectacular Nordic
islands via a vast coastal network of bridges
and tunnels, or join a Norwegian family in
their home for coffee and a snack to learn
firsthand about daily life in this scenic place.
DAY 5 / GEIRANGER, NORWAY
Cruise into the tiny village of Geiranger
via the Geirangerfjord, one of Norway’s
most spectacular fjords. If you would like
magnificent bird’s-eye views of this magical
setting, join an included tour to Eagle’s
Bend, perched 2,000 feet above the village. It
is a thrilling drive marked by 11 hairpin turns
and incredible panoramas. Immerse yourself
in the great outdoors on an optional tour
to witness spectacular waterfalls or journey
through the fjords by kayak.
DAY 6 / SAIL THE NORTH SEA
The North Sea has long been central to
Europe’s history. From Viking settlement
and medieval trade to international war
and modern-day oil production, some of
the continent’s most pivotal moments have
unfolded on its stage. Learn more during
an enriching lecture. Relax on board
with tea in the Wintergarden or find your
inner calm with yoga on the Sports Deck.
DAY 7 / TÓRSHAVN, FAROE ISLANDS
Explore the legacy of Vikings in the scenic
Faroe Islands, located halfway between
Norway and Iceland. Once home to the Viking
Parliament, the island’s capital of Tórshavn
occupies the archipelago’s most historic
peninsula. During your visit, a scenic drive
reveals the breathtaking fjords of Kaldbak and
Kollafjørdur, magnificent island vistas and
a rich salmon fishing culture . . . all infused
with a welcoming Nordic spirit.
DAY 8 / SAIL THE NORWEGIAN SEA
Cruise the Norwegian Sea, the source of
transformative discoveries and ideas, from
legendary sea monsters and real-life whales to
cod and oil. As you sail, learn more about your
upcoming destinations during our
engaging port talks in our onboard theatre.
Left Colourful houses at Seydisfjördur Above right
Stunning landscapes at Geiranger and Seydisfjördur

explorer: VIKING.COM section 00 25
DAY 9 / SEYDISFJÖRDUR, ICELAND
Walk along streets of colourful wooden
homes dating back to the 19th century or
explore the surrounding fjord landscape,
all overseen by starkly picturesque slopes
and the soaring summits of Mounts Bjólfur
and Strandartindur. The tiny town boasts
a thriving scene of local arts and a history
dating back to early Viking settlement.
If you wish, you may follow a tranquil
walking path from the town centre along
the banks of the Fjardará River.
DAY 10 / ALUREYRI, ICELAND
Visit Iceland’s second largest city and admire
its colourful architecture. Nicknamed the
“Capital of the North,” Akureyri prospered
during its days as a Danish trading post.
Admire the 2,000 species of blooms at
the public park and the Botanic Garden.
DAY 11 / ÍSAFJÖRDUR, ICELAND
Uncover the natural beauty and history of the
Westfjords peninsula in Iceland’s most remote,
and many say most breathtaking, reaches.
Explore your port city of ĺsafjördur and the
tiny and tranquil enclave of Bolungarvík,
one of the nation’s oldest fishing villages
and home to the Ósvör Maritime Museum.
Alternately, marvel at the magnificent
Dynjandi waterfall, a bridal veil of water
cascading down a mountainside, or
kayak amid some of Iceland’s most
picturesque locations.
DAY 12 & 13 / REYKJAVÍK, ICELAND
Explore Reykjavík, one of the cleanest
and most eco-friendly cities in the world.
Vikings settled here in 870AD and today
Reykjavík is home to endless charms,
watched over by the majestic Esja mountain
range. You will see the city’s highlights up
close, including the charming cathedral.
And admire the cityscape from the Perlan,
a hilltop, glass-domed landmark offering
spectacular city views. Alternately, you may
venture farther afield to take in the country’s
breathtaking natural beauty, from towering
waterfalls and soaring mountains to blue
thermal springs. Disembark your ship this
morning and transfer to the airport for your
return flight home. Or stay on to explore
more of Reykjavík’s beauty and culture.
Iceland’s Majestic Landscapes 13-day 2023 cruise from Bergen to Reykjavík, from £4,840pp viking.com

26 CITY GUIDE : REYKJAVIK
INSIDER TIPS
One day in...
Reykjavík
01 BLUE LAGOON
Geothermal spa Billed as an
otherworldly wonder in the
heart of a volcanic landscape,
the rejuvenating powers of the
geothermal seawater are unlikely to
disappoint. You can always elevate
the experience into the next level
and have an in-water massage.
Words Lottie Holland
MORNING
Reykjavík, the world’s most northern
capital city and one of the cleanest
and most eco-friendly cities in the
world, is very much the hub of this
geographically stunning country.
Although it’s home to over half the
national population, Reykjavík still
manages to ooze a certain amount of
small-town charm. But don’t think
that this means the options for a day
out are sparse – quite the contrary.
There is no lack of culture in this
cool northern capital; world-class
museums recounting the fascinating
history (the Vikings settled here in
870 AD) vie with amazing street
art (the concrete architecture calls
out to be decorated with high-class
commissioned graffiti), and just
outside of the city the natural beauty
of Iceland is dramatic and abundant.
AFTERNOON
Take the Snapshots of Reykjavík
excursion where you begin with
a drive up Öskjuhlíð Hill to the
Perlan vantage point, also known
as “The Pearl.” This glass-domed
building was constructed upon old
hot-water storage tanks and today
offers sweeping city views. Descend
into the city and pass the Kjarvalsstaðir
Art Museum, a fine example of
Nordic Modernism. You will also see
the fantastic Hallgrímskirkja Church,
a towering vision in white designed
by architect Guðjón Samúelsson.
Its tower points dramatically up to
the sky and is worthy of the trek to
the top (there is an elevator) to see
the sweeping views of the city below.
Journey through the city centre
passing the pond and the all-glass
Harpa concert hall. Then continue
to the old harbor and pier where
you can take a peak at the Sólfar
statue. See the National Museum, the
university and the Höfði House, the
site of the meeting between Ronald
Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev
that marked the beginning of the
end of the cold war. It’s also worth
heading off into the side streets for
a spot of artisan shopping. There
is a refreshing lack of chain stores;
instead a creative mix of independent
enterprises vie for your attention.
EVENING
Head back to the ship for a lovely dinner
or if you want to stay out a bit longer,
all swimming pools in the city are open
into the evening. And of course, on crisp
winter evenings you might even get to
see the Northern Lights!
02 RAUFARHÓLSHELLIR
Lava cave For those concerned
about cramped conditions in the
lava caves, look no further than
Raufarhólshellir. It’s the fourth
longest lava cave in Iceland but
is also comfortingly spacious
with 10-metre ceiling heights.
03 THE PERLAN
Exhibition Sitting atop the
highest hill in the city, this glassdomed
landmark not only offers
incredible views but houses an
interactive exhibition about the
wonders and nature of Iceland.

THERE IS NO LACK OF CULTURE IN THIS
COOL NORTHERN CAPITAL; WORLD-CLASS
MUSEUMS VIE WITH AMAZING STREET ART

28 DESTINATIONS : FRANCE
The four surviving
arches of the Pont
Saint-Bénézet, Avignon
are classified as a
World Heritage Site
FRANCE’S
FINEST
A journey on the rivers of France
links the most spectacular cities
Words Caroline Hendrie

VIKING.COM 29
It is a warm, sunny spring afternoon in
Paris as we stroll along the Champs-
Élysées, stopping at a nearby park for
an ice cream. As total Francophiles, with a
serious fromage addiction, we could not wait
to embark on the France’s Finest river cruise.
The prospect of journeying through Paris and
Normandy to Burgundy and Provence all in
one trip was far too good for us to miss.
As first-time river cruisers, we loved the relaxing
pace as our ship, Viking Buri, meandered
through the French countryside and we
relished in the excitement of opening the
drapes every morning to breathtaking views. A
particular highlight was our visit to Giverny, the
former home of French Impressionist painter
Claude Monet. Seeing the iconic gardens and
farmhouse where he lived and worked was
wonderful, and of course the Japanese bridge
and water lilies are instantly recognisable.
We felt inspired by the views from our ship.
It is not every day you get to glide down
the Seine past the charming Île Saint-Louis
and Île de la Cité, the grand and imposing
Notre Dame Cathedral looming on one side,
the other adorned with many châteaux. My
husband and I both fell in love with France on
this trip. Given that the cruise sails through
a country known the world over for its fine
cuisine, it would be fair to expect the food on
board to live up to the local standards and we
were not disappointed. The range of authentic
dishes available at lunch and dinner, stylishly
presented, was amazing, and we liked the

30 DESTINATIONS : FRANCE
fact that it was not formal – we could
dress casually for dinner when we chose to.
In the evenings, onboard entertainment
included a talented pianist and cheese and
wine tastings. It was the perfect atmosphere
for making new friends – everyone seemed
determined to spend as much time socialising
as possible, and we stayed up late on a few
nights in the lounge. We also had the chance
to practice our French (with mixed results!)
during a visit to a local market.
The itinerary included an excursion to
the beaches of Normandy, the site of the
D-Day landings, which was an unforgettable
experience. A visit to the small nearby town of
Les Andelys was another delight, with Château
Gaillard, which was built in 1196 by Richard
the Lionheart, followed by a late evening
docking in Conflans-Sainte-Honorine. In the
medieval city of Rouen we took a walking tour
through the centre of Old Town, marvelling
at sights such as the spectacular gothic Rouen
Cathedral and the famous Gros Horloge, a 16thcentury
astronomical clock. Walking among the
half-timbered buildings made us feel as if we
had been transported back in time. Rouen is
steeped in history – it is here that you can see
the 14th-century courthouse where Joan of Arc
was sentenced to death and the nearby Market
Square where she was martyred.
Back in the capital, we took advantage of the
optional tour to the Château de Versailles, the
opulent home of Louis XIV. It is difficult not
to disapprove as you stare at the gilded decor,
manicured gardens, and ceiling frescos knowing
the extreme poverty French peasants were
plagued by at the time; but it is equally hard
not to be impressed by its majestic splendor.
Avignon is one of the most spectacular
destinations we visited on this trip and a
leisurely walking tour of the town included
the iconic Palace of the Popes. Viking Buri
was docked a short walk away from Pont
d’Avignon, the famous medieval bridge that
boasts more fantastic views. There is also an
optional tour exploring the Châteauneuf-du-
Pape vineyard before returning to the ship
for an evening talk about French cheese. The
Festival d’Avignon was in full swing when
we visited in July. The meandering roads
and squares were blocked off to vehicles and
teeming with tourists. We knew we would
return to visit Avignon later in the week, so
we took our time to soak up the ambience and
watch street performers bring the scene to life.
Lyon is such a wonderful bustling city, full
of people running, cycling and working out
on the wide footpaths alongside the river,
creating a lively atmosphere. The Saône River
flows parallel to the Rhône and districts are
divided by spectacular bridges and beautiful
waterfronts. Everywhere you look is a pictureperfect
moment. Famous for its gastronomy,
restaurants in Lyon offer everything from local
delicacies such as tripe in the bouchons to
Mediterranean cuisine – you can find anything
you want. You can join the walking tour and
explore the many passageways and architectural
splendors or go it alone and see where the
mood takes you. The hill leading up through a
botanical garden to the Basilica of Notre Dame
was hard work on the legs, but it was worth it
for the far reaching views over the city.
France’s Finest includes all meals and wine
and beer with lunch and dinner. For a little
extra you can upgrade to the Silver Spirits
beverage package where you can sample
premium wines from regions visited on the
trip. Gin and tonic in hand, we wandered
through the lounge, past the onboard pianist
and toward the Aquavit Terrace at the back of
the ship, a beautiful open-air deck designed
for relaxation with a view. One level up is the
top deck where you will find sun lounges,
Clockwise
from left
La Roche-Guyon
townscape; The
Eiffel Tower in Paris;
Medieval houses
in Rouen; Mulberry
Harbours were
used to land troops
during WWII at
Arromanches-les-
Bains; Illuminated
buildings in Lyon;
The Château des
Tourelles is almost
unchanged for 800
years; The Roman
ampitheatre in Arles

VIKING.COM 31

32 VIKING.COM
Clockwise from left:
Delorus amet deRum
Ut eseque voles dolut
explaut expliquiae nos
exeruntibus animoluptate
corroriat.
Cepudic to consercietum
fugit omni
rentur, tenis maio in
et faci numquame
pedi que occuscimil ea
ventiatus dollabo re
Main picture
Built in the 16th
century, The Old
Mill is a much loved
historic landmark
over the Seine River
in the city of Vernon

DESTINATIONS : FRANCE 33
LYON HAS MANY PASSAGEWAYS AND
ARCHITECTURAL SPLENDORS YOU CAN EXPLORE
putting green and a walking track if you feel
inclined to work off those indulgent meals.
From the Atrium, the sleek stairs lead up
to an enormous painting of the Norse god
Buri, the ship’s namesake. Viking’s Nordic
heritage is evident from the fine details within
the decor through to the Norwegian salmon
on the menu. The Restaurant showcases the
popular river-view tables; all are decorated
with pristine white cloths, timeless glasses
and gorgeous blue plates by Iittala. The room
glows with natural light and offers a calming
and elegant atmosphere in which to dine.
From top Looking
across the lavender
fields in Provence;
The vineyards at
Tournon Village
Our stateroom was spacious; the bed was
immaculately laid with white Egyptian cotton
sheets and the veranda gave us the option of
private al fresco dining or just a quiet spot to sit
with a glass of wine and watch the picturesque
scenes. Near the end of our journey we joined
the optional Beaujolais and Truffles tour, a full
day of excursions designed to please the palate
and learn about local cuisine and wine trades.
Our guide drove us through the region’s most
stunning scenery, stopping by at Château de
Pierreclos so that we could sample the local
wine at a private tasting. Continuing on
our journey through the most spectacular
countryside, we watched the Provençal world
go by; small children carrying their fishing
rods to the nearby lake. Truffle hunting at a
local farm was another highlight; watching
the relationship between farmer and dog as
they scoured the land was just fabulous. We
savoured the truffle, mixed into butter and
spread on bread, before our final stop at a
goat cheese farm – the perfect way to end an
indulgent gastronomical day and our fabulous
French river cruise on Viking Buri.
A 15-day 2022 France’s Finest cruise from
Paris to Avignon, from £4,290pp viking.com

34 ITINERARY : RHô NE CRUISE
ITINERARY
LYON & PROVENCE
Discover the Les Arènes amphitheatre in Arles, see the Pont du Gard, explore
Avignon’s Palace of the Popes, excite your palate in Lyon, savour Beaujolais
wines and see how chèvre cheese is made on this unforgettable Rhône cruise
DAY 1 / AVIGNON, FRANCE
Fly to Marseille, then transfer to your ship,
docked in Avignon. After boarding, take free
time to explore this quaint town on the scenic
Rhône River, or join our “welcome walk” to
stretch your legs and get oriented.
DAY 2 / ARLES, FRANCE
Disembark after breakfast and take a walking
tour of Arles with its diverse architectural
highlights. Experience the city’s vibrant colours
and striking quality of light that have inspired
artists. Arles is also the site of some impressive
Roman ruins, including Les Arènes, an arena
that seats 20,000 and is still in use, as well as
Romanesque monuments such as the Church of
Saint-Trôphime, completed in the 15th century.
Enjoy free time to explore Arles on your own.
DAY 3 / AVIGNON, FRANCE
Set out on a guided walk of Avignon.
Stroll through the historic centre, see the
picturesque Pont d’Avignon and walk the
Place de l’Horloge. Continue to the renowned
Palace of the Popes for a guided tour through
this rambling maze of Gothic architecture that
served as the papal residence, fortress, church
and palace. After the tour, enjoy an afternoon
exploring Avignon or join the optional tour to
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, visiting the vineyards
for wine tasting before leaving for Viviers.
DAY 4 / VIVIERS, FRANCE
This morning join a walking tour of Viviers’
Old Town with its medieval and Renaissance
buildings. Once a 5th-century Roman
settlement, today the cobblestone streets are
dominated by the 12th-century St. Vincent
Cathedral. Then set sail to Tournon.
Arrive in Vienne this afternoon, a beautiful
town with an ancient Roman past. Visit the
Temple of Augustus and Livia, the Roman
amphitheatre and the Gothic Cathedral of St.
Maurice on a walking tour before dinner on
board the ship docked in Vienne.
DAY 6/ LYON, FRANCE
After breakfast, disembark in Lyon for a tour
of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Begin
with a drive to the top of Fourvière Hill for
amazing views of the city. Continue with a
guided visit to the Basilica of Notre Dame and
drive through town past the magnificent St.
Jean Cathedral and the Palace of Justice. Then
take a walking tour through the cobblestone
streets of Vieux Lyon (Old Town), with time
to shop for souvenirs or sample some of the
fine French cuisine for which Lyon is worldfamous.
The ship remains docked overnight.
DAY 7 / LYON, FRANCE
After breakfast, take a scenic drive through the
rolling hills of Beaujolais, where viticultural
tradition runs deep and enjoy a tasting in one
of Beaujolais’s famous cellars. Return to your
ship for lunch and some free time.
DAY 8 / LYON, FRANCE
After breakfast, disembark and proceed to the
Lyon airport for your return flight. Or, extend
your time in France with three nights in Paris,
one of the world’s most romantic cities.
DAY 5 / TOURNON, FRANCE
Board the Train de l’Ardèche this morning for
a locomotive ride through the deep gorges of
the Ardèche plateau, cut by the Doux River.
Return to your ship and enjoy lunch on
board as we cruise past dramatic landscapes.
A 10-day 2022 Lyon & Provence cruise from Avignon to Lyon, with seven guided tours, starts from
£1,845pp viking.com

SHOPPING : INTERIORS 35
VERSAILLE STYLE
Lisbeth Distressed Ivory
Chest of Drawers
£995, frenchbedroomcompany.co.uk
IRIDISED GLASS
Azia Pendant French
Gold & Glass LED
£192, darlighting.co.uk
BEECH AND STEEL
Dojo chair designed
by Ac/Al studio
€465, from petitefriture.com
FRENCH INTERIORS
ANTIQUE IRON
Embrace the elegant vibes of
France for your home interiors
French tall candleholder
with four arms
£95, from thegreyworks.com
PARIS POSTER
French Sketch No. 1 poster
£12.95 from desenio.com
100% LINEN
French Country
Red Stripe Tablecloth
£106, from truelinen.co.uk
PERFECT TONE
Annie Sloan Chalk
Paint in French Linen
£21.95, from anniesloan.com

One day in...
Avignon
Words Abbi Henderson
FAST FACTS
1. Avignon became
a UNESCO World
Heritage Site in 1995.
2. Avignon was one
of nine cities named
European Capital of
Culture in 2000.
3. The earliest settlement
in Avignon dates to
around 5,000 years ago.
4. Avignon was the
capital of the papacy
from 1309 to 1377.

CITY GUIDE : AVIGNON 37
MEANDER THROUGH ROOMS OF MEDIEVAL
ART AT MUSÉE DU PETIT PALAIS, OR VISIT
A PAINTING BY VINCENT VAN GOGH
INSIDER TIPS
01 UNIQUE FIND
Le Chateau Du Bois is a
one-stop-shop for locally-sourced
lavender souvenirs. Think soaps
and skincare, perfume and
potpourri – all vegan-friendly
and all 100% certified organic.
A
hotbed of history and
culture, Avignon, on
the bank of the Rhône
River in the Provence region of
southeastern France, has a little
something to offer foodies, art
lovers, and architecture-admirers
alike. Its exemplary art offerings and
annual Festival d’Avignon (during
which the city and its landmarks are
transformed into theatre venues to
host all manner of performances)
attract hundreds of thousands of
visitors every year. And, with so
much to offer, it’s easy to see why.
MORNING
This morning, set out on a guided
walk of the city, nicknamed “City of
Popes” because it was home to seven
popes in the 12th century. Meander
through the historic centre to see
the picturesque Pont d’Avignon, the
famous four remaining arches of a
medieval bridge that was partially
swept away in the 1600s. Then
continue with just a short walk to
the Place de l’Horloge, the city’s
central square which greets you
with elegant façades and balconies.
After that head to the renowned
Palace of the Popes for a fascinating
guided tour through a maze of
Gothic architecture that served as
papal residence, fortress, church and
palace where the sense of history is
truly palpable. You will be staggered
by its sheer size which overshadows
everything else around.
AFTERNOON
After lunch back on board, head
off to soak up more of the city’s
culture. Why not make a stop at one
of the many free museums. Meander
through rooms of medieval art
at Musée du Petit Palais, or visit
one of the few paintings by Vincent
van Gogh on view in Provence at The
Musée Angladon. Or choose to join
the tour of the magnificent Pont du
Gard aqueduct built without mortar
by Romans 2,000 years ago. Discover
its history at the museum. One of
the most ambitious engineering
projects of its time, the Pont du Gard
aqueduct carried water to the Roman
outpost of Nîmes from the springs
of Uzes, 31 miles away. It is surely
one of the Roman Empire’s most
breathtaking remains. Then head
back to ship for a well-earned dinner.
02 ATTRACTION
Located a short drive from
Avignon, the neighbouring
village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape
is a must-visit for those with a
fondness for wine (and enough
time to venture out of the city).
Visit the castle ruins and take a
tour of the vineyards to sample
some of the region’s red.
03 CANOE THE RHÔNE
If you’re feeling energetic, opt
for the three-hour excursion to
paddle through the centre of
Avignon by canoe. Your guide will
point out the important historic
sites as well as the local flora and
fauna of the lower Rhône Valley.

BIOGRAPHY
Chris Caldicott was
the photographerin-residence
at the
Royal Geographical
Society in the 1980’s
travelling to some
of the most remote
places on earth. He
has since travelled
to 108 countries
on assignment
as a freelance
photographer. He will
be one of the judges
of our competition
on page 42

Picture Perfect
Don’t dismiss your phone camera – it can
capture surprisingly good cruise memories
Words & Photos Chris Caldicott

40 PHOTOGRAPHY
Most of my fellow passengers on
an eight-day circumnavigation
of Iceland aboard Viking Jupiter
were using their mobile phones rather
than cameras to record the highlights of
their voyage. I had only used my camera
phone to publish images on Instagram or
send immediate pictures of where I am to
friends and family until recently. However,
the quality of cameras in most phones has
improved so much that it has become a
perfectly reasonable option to travel light
and even leave the camera at home.
This epic journey to otherworldly ‘Fire
and Ice’ geothermal landscapes, alive with
glacial and volcanic activity like exploding
geysers, bubbling mud, hissing lava fields,
spectacular cascading waterfalls, not to
mention whale watching trips, provided
plenty of opportunity for creative phone
photography and Instagram gold.
The advantages of shooting with a smartphone
rather than a bulky camera, are that you don’t
have to worry about changing settings for focus,
shutter speed or aperture – and, of course, you
always have it with you. The greatest creative
opportunities lie in composition and editing.
Once you’ve taken your photo, you can easily
use the filters that come with your phone to
crop it, to frame the subject, as well as alter the
brightness, contrast and colour of the photo.
Care is required though. It’s best to avoid the
saturation option and have fun experimenting
with cropping, autocorrect and adjustment
of highlights, shadows and vibrancy.
All the latter models of the Samsung Galaxy,
Google Pixel, Sony Xperia, OnePlus,
Huawei Mate and Apple iPhones have
state-of-the-art in-phone cameras and most
other smartphones are more than capable
of capturing good images just by pointing
and shooting. Here are some tips for
maximising the creative potential of your
phone camera either for social media
content or memorable family snaps.
COMPOSITION
Most smartphones have at least three camera
lenses allowing for wide angle, standard and
zoom composition. The distance from your
subject will determine which one to chose.
I used the zoom option to fill the frame with
the tails of humpback whales diving, because
we couldn’t safely move any closer. I also used
it to isolate the figures silhouetted in front
of the Godafoss Waterfall in Fnjóskadalur
Valley, Eyjafjördur (below).
LIGHT
It’s important to use natural light at the
best time of the day. Early morning and
late afternoon/early evening light is always
the most captivating for landscapes and the
most generous for portrait photography.
DETAILS
Look out for interesting details and use the
standard lens to get up close to the subject
– like a cliff that looks like an elephant on
Heimaey in the Westerman Islands.
I took the images here on an Apple iPhone 11.
Turn over to enter our COMPETITION.
Previous page
For this shot of
the Gullfoss
Waterfall, I used
the wide angle lens
Right, clockwise
from top left Mist
and fog can be
very atmospheric,
as at the post
glacial lava fields
of the Hellisheiði
mountain plateau;
I used a zoom lens
to capture the tail
of the humpback
whale; Use the
standard lens to
get up close, like
these rocks in the
Westman islands;
Midday overhead
sun is good for
reflections like
these clouds in the
Myvatn volcanic
lakes, Eyjafjördur

explorer: section 00

42 VIKING : COMPETITION
WIN!
An amazing Fortnum & Mason Christmas hamper
Often the most exciting opportunities for creative photography on a cruise occur while on board at
sea. This competition invites all Viking guests to submit photos taken on any mobile phone while on a
Viking cruise. The images can feature anything you like (except people) – landscapes, cities, sailing into
or away from destination ports, buildings, marine life, sunrises, sunsets, and more.
HOW TO ENTER
Send your picture with details on where it was taken to uk-marketing@viking.com before 2nd December 2021.
WINNING IMAGES
Our panel of judges, including Chris Caldicott, will judge
entries based on each image’s success in being:
• Evocative
• Creative
• Original
THE PRIZE
The winner will receive an amazing Fortum & Mason
Christmas hamper worth £250 and the winning picture
will be the cover of the next Explore More issue.
The top 10 submissions will be featured in the article
of the next Explore More issue. The winner will be
announced before 22nd December 2021.
T&Cs: Entry open to guests aged 18 years and over, except employees of Viking, their immediate families or anyone connected with the administration of this promotion.
Only one entry per person will be accepted. There is one Fortum and Mason Christmas hamper on offer. The prize is non-transferable and non-negotiable and there is no cash
alternative in lieu of the prize. The winner will be chosen by the panel of judges and notified before 22nd of December 2021. By submitting your photos, you agree for us to
use them in print and online based marketing materials (including Explore More magazine) or in any other way the company sees fit. You acknowledge that your participation
is voluntary and that you will not receive financial compensation for the involvement in the publication of the photographs or participation in company’s marketing materials.
Image Chris Caldicott

VIKING.COM 43
TEA & HONEY
Tea picking at the Tregothnan Estate
in Cornwall with Viking Venus
Words and food photography Karen Burns-Booth
BIOGRAPHY
Karen Burns-Booth
is a freelance food
and travel writer, as
well as a food stylist,
and recipe developer.
Originally from South
Africa, she now lives on
the edge of Snowdonia
National Park
A
fter an invigorating walk up
steep but bucolic country lanes,
winding past beehives and over
wooden stiles, we came to the most
beautiful view of Cornwall's River Fal.
We had arrived at the tea terraces on
England's first ever Tea Estate.
Tregothnan Estate is near Falmouth in
Cornwall, and I was lucky enough to be
on an included excursion when sailing on
the Viking Venus. Here we walked amongst
wildflower meadows, ancient orchards
and grassy countryside tracks. Harvesting
Britain’s first home-grown English tea
in 2005, and thus creating the ultimate
Britishness in every cup, it has certainly
become a must-visit on every tourist’s list.
16 years on, and over 20,000 tea bushes
are planted every year in this new English
tea garden, which is wholly suited to
the local Cornwall microclimate. It’s a
fascinating sight to see rows and
rows of tea bushes, something that we
may normally associate with Ceylon,
India or Kenya. I was intrigued to learn
that the flora around the tea includes the
famous pink Magnolia Campbellii that
was introduced from Darjeeling and often
heralds the spring in Cornwall before it
arrives in Darjeeling.
I’ve been tea plucking in Sri Lanka, but
I never thought I’d be lucky enough
to go tea plucking in England and as I
wandered up and down the terraces, I
kept looking over to the River Fal, as it
snaked its way through the nearby valley.
The sun glinted on the shimmering water,
soft clouds were buffeted along by a gentle
summer breeze, and it was hard to believe
that I wasn’t back in Sri Lanka harvesting
tea with the local tea pickers there.
After our walk we all enjoyed a cup
of Tregothnan Afternoon Tea with
homemade shortbread biscuits, taken
in the small but perfectly charming tea
garden. For a tea addict like me, and as a
recipe writer and recipe creator, this was
one of the highlights of my cruise whilst
on Viking Venus. The trip even inspired
me to create new recipes using this
iconic British ingredient!

44 BOOK : FOOD
RECIPE
CORNISH FRUITED TEA BREAD
This delicious fruit loaf is made with yeast and saffron and tea-infused fruit.
It’s based on the famous Cornish Saffron Cake, but with tea and not milk
being used as the liquid ingredient. Serve this in thick slices with Cornish
butter and a cuppa; it’s also delectable when toasted and served with cheese.
Lavender & Lovage - A
Culinary Notebook of Memories
and Recipes From Home and
Abroad is based on Karen
Burns-Booth's eponymous
award-winning blog.
“It’s hard to believe that my
first solo book was published
nearly three years ago. It’s part
travel diary, part memoir, part
history and all cookbook,”
says Karen of the cooking
companion containing 160
unique recipes. It showcases
the breadth and depth of her
travels, including many Viking
cruises. “I have been fortunate
enough to have lived and
travelled all over the world
and in my book I have shared
some of my favourite recipes,
experiences, and memories.”
From breakfast, preserves and
soups to vegetarian meals and
home-baking, the book offers
fascinating historical facts
about many of the recipe’s
origins. “I was thrilled when
one of my travelling culinary
heroines, Josceline Dimbleby,
said ‘this book has everything.
A real treasure trove!’”
Karen’s new travel
cookbook book is
now available from
Amazon and from
lavenderandlovage.com
Makes: 8 to 10 slices
Prep: 2 1/2 hours
Bake: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1/4 teaspoon saffron threads
150ml freshly brewed tea
(I used Tregothnan
English breakfast tea)
1/2 teaspoon salt
60g caster sugar
1/2 teaspoon mixed spice
450g plain white flour
120g softened butter
115g mixed dried fruit
7g sachet fast action
dried yeast
METHOD
1. Add the saffron threads to the warm
or tepid freshly brewed tea and set aside.
2. Sift sugar and salt into the flour and rub
in the softened butter. Add fruit and mix well.
3. Add the dried yeast and then the saffron
tea mixture. Mix well with a wooden spoon
and then tip the dough out into a wellfloured
board and knead with your hands
until you have a soft, smooth call of dough.
4. Place the dough into a lightly buttered
bowl, cover and set aside in a warm place
to rise for 1 1/2 hours, or until the dough
has almost doubled in size.
5. Knead into a loaf shape and place into
a well greased loaf tin. Cover and allow
to rise again for 30 minutes.
6. Preheat oven to 200C/180C Fan/400F.
7. Bake in preheated oven for 30 minutes,
or until the loaf is well risen.
8. Leave to cool. Serve in slices with butter.

VIKING.COM 45
RECIPE
EARL GREY FRUIT SCONES
These delightful scones are infused with Earl Grey tea, which imparts a wonderful
bergamot flavour to them. The dried fruit is also soaked in hot Earl Grey tea
adding an extra layer of citrusy and floral flavours, as well as making the fruit
extra plump. Serve these scones with butter and jam, or with clotted cream for
a proper Cornish cream tea. (Don’t forget it’s jam first in Cornwall too!)
Makes :10 scones
Prep: 30 minutes
Bake: 15 minutes
INGREDIENTS
150ml buttermilk
4 Earl Grey tea bags
(I used Tregothnan
Earl Grey tea bags)
75g dried mixed fruit
375g SR flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
75g cold butter, cut
into small pieces
75g caster sugar
2 eggs
METHOD
1. Bring the milk to a boil in a saucepan
and add the teabags and dried fruit. Take
off the heat and allow it to infuse until the
milk is cold. Once cold, remove the dried
fruit with a sieve and set to one side.
2. Preheat the oven to 220C/200C Fan/425F.
3. Put the flour and baking powder
in a large bowl and add the butter.
Using your fingertips, rub the butter
into the flour until it resembles fine
breadcrumbs. Add the sugar and stir in.
4. Whisk the eggs with the cooled Earl
Grey milk, then add this to the flour
with the soaked dried fruit. Mix until it
comes together to form a soft dough.
5. Lightly flour your work surface and
tip the dough on to the surface.
6. Roll out the dough to a thickness
of 3cm and cut out your scones
using a fluted scone cutter.
7. Place the scones on a baking
tray lined with greaseproof paper.
8. Glaze the tops with a little milk using a
pastry brush and bake in the oven for 15
minutes, or until well risen and golden brown.
9. Leave to cool before serving with
butter, jam and cream.
I HAVE LIVED AND TRAVELLED
ALL OVER THE WORLD AND IN
MY BOOK I HAVE SHARED SOME
OF MY FAVOURITE RECIPES,
EXPERIENCES, AND MEMORIES

00 46 explorer: BOOK : FOOD section
RECIPE
QUICK TEA INFUSED GRAVLAX SALMON
This fabulous recipe makes enough salmon for eight people. You can
infuse the salmon for up to two days, but you’ll also get a wonderfully
mellow tea flavour with a quick cure for 12hrs. Serve this Gravlax
salmon as part of an elegant afternoon tea with lemon wedges and
sourdough crackers. It makes wonderful tea sandwiches too.
Serves: 8 people as a starter
Prep: 12hrs 20 minutes
INGREDIENTS
650g fresh salmon, skin on
150g sea salt
75g caster sugar
45g loose Earl Grey tea
(I used Tregothnan Earl Grey tea)
Bunch of fresh dill, finely diced
(optional)
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
METHOD
1. Line a large roasting tin with a
double layer of cling film.
2. Make the “cure” mixture by mixing the
salt, sugar, tea, dill, zest and juice together.
3. Spoon half of the cure mixture into the lined
tin, and lay the salmon on skin side down.
4. Spoon the remaining cure mixture over
the salmon and then wrap the salmon very
tightly in the cling film. Sit another baking or
roasting tin on top, add a few tins of food or
weights to weigh it down and leave in a cool
place or the fridge for 12hrs or up to 2 days.
5. When you’re ready to serve the salmon,
unwrap it and rinse off the cure with cold water.
6. Slice the salmon very thinly from the skin.
If you have time, you can freeze it for
a few hours and it will be easier to cut.
7. Serve with fresh lemon wedges
and sourdough crackers.

explorer: VIKING.COM section 00 47

48 DESTINATIONS : UKRAINE
QUIETLY
GRAND
John Wilmott marvels at the sheer variety in Ukraine
Words John Wilmott
Many travellers dream about sailing into
the harbours of New York or Sydney.
But there’s an equally dramatic waterside
skyline that’s tantalisingly under the radar – Kiev. As
Viking Sineus approached the Ukrainian capital, the
industrial outskirts parted to reveal a panorama of
golden church domes that seemed to emerge from a
forest tumbling down to the river.
Kiev’s own ‘statue of liberty’, the Motherland
Monument, soared from the steep bank, a giant
sword in her hand. Passing beneath an elegant
footbridge, another surprise hove into view – a wide
sandy beach, packed with sun worshippers, on the
opposite bank of the River Dnieper.
Two nights in Kiev marked the conclusion of our
journey; half of those who choose this enlightening
journey will, like me, enjoy the sights in the opposite
direction. After viewing the city’s immaculate
churches and cathedrals and soaking up the lively
atmosphere in its huge main square, I found another
pleasant shock in a café-bar. Ukraine prices are 20
years behind those of Western Europe.
Odessa, the Black Sea port, was possibly even
more enchanting than Kiev. With the ship
docked almost at the base of the famed Potemkin
Stairs – 192 broad steps up to the city centre –
the city was at our disposal for three nights
before we began our 594-mile cruise. Life in
Odessa revolves around its parks and boulevards,
shaded by horse chestnut and acacia trees. I was
there at the weekend and local families were
listening to the various buskers, cooling off beside
the fountain outside the elegant Opera Theatre
and filling the terraces of restaurants. A long walk
through one of the parks brought me to the city’s
beach resort, throbbing with both music and
people on a sunny Sunday afternoon.

VIKING.COM 49
DID YOU KNOW?
Kiev is the capital of Ukraine
and one of Europe’s oldest
cities. From the 9th century
on, Kiev was the main Dnieper
River trade centre on the route
from Scandinavia to the
Black Sea and Constantinople.
We’d already enjoyed our orientation tour and
trip to the art gallery but it was the catacombs
that captivated me. Hundreds of miles of
tunnels were dug in the 19th century to mine
limestone to construct Odessa’s handsome
buildings. Leaving Odessa late in the evening,
Viking Sineus cruised along the Black Sea coast
before turning into the sprawling delta of the
Dnieper, Europe’s third-largest river.
Image of Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra, John Wilmott
We awoke to a vista of lush riverbanks speckled
with ramshackle homes, soon arriving in the
shipbuilding city of Kherson. It turned out that
many of the ship’s crew were from Kherson and
they took the opportunity for a quick catch-up
with their families while we visited a riverside
park and were treated to a mini-concert by
three ladies in traditional dress under a tree. The
scenery changed regularly as we sailed north.
Apart from the occasional factory, village and
lonely church, I was intrigued by how empty
much of this vast country was, but what amazed
me the most were the beaches. Pockets of
sand along the shore were invariably occupied
by families splashing in the water and waving
at our passing cruise ship. I spent much time
taking in the views from the Sun Deck of Viking
Sineus, retreating to the air-conditioning of the
forward observation lounge with its wraparound
windows when the sun became a little too hot.
Dnipro was my favourite port of call along the
river. The fact that this bustling city is a bit
battered in parts added to the appeal – it’s a real,
living entity with few nods to tourism. After our
introductory tour and visit to the museum, I
walked along the splendid esplanade that runs
for miles along the river. Here is where city
Top St. Sophia
with its thirteen
glittering domes
is a distinctive
feature of the
city Above The
resplendent
Kyevo-Pecherska
Lavra monastery
in Kyiv

50 DESTINATIONS : UKRAINE
ON THE JOURNEY
Odessa Explore the beautiful
architecture and sights of
Odessa, an elegant city of
terraced hills and landscaped
parks. Founded in 1795 on
the Black Sea, Odessa quickly
grew into a great scientific
and cultural centre.
Above
Sample some of
the local borscht
Top right Odessa
region in Ukraine
folk come to play among the fountains, quirky
statues, chic cafés and bean bags scattered on
the lawns. Our departure time was midnight
so I took the chance, after another dinner on
board featuring traditional Ukrainian dishes, to
wander again into the city, observing local life
on the wide avenues.
Our travelling troupe of five guides next took
us to visit families in their homes in a village
near the port of Kremenchug – an example of
Viking’s more immersive approach. I sampled
plums, cakes and a shot of vodka on a garden
patio, chatting to the homeowner about how our
everyday lives were really not that different.
Then came the long and suitably slow approach
into Kiev. Stunned by the cityscape from the
water, I was eager to explore and our included
tours did not disappoint. All the historic places of
worship, with their glistening orbs, are sublime,
but Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra – the Monastery of
the Caves – is surely one of the most magnificent
religious sites in Europe. Candles in hand, we
wandered through the narrow tunnels beneath
the complex to see the mummified bodies of
monks, but it was the sheer grandeur of the place
that impressed me most – a feast of polished
domes, baroque facades and a lofty, weddingcake
bell tower.
That evening, as I gathered with new friends
over a nightcap on board, most of us swore to
return to Kiev for an extended break. Viking
saved one of the best excursions until last.
The Pirogovo Folk Museum is a collection
of ‘rescued’ wooden buildings from all over
Ukraine, spread across 400 acres and looking
like they had been there for ever.
Our guide showed us churches, barns,
windmills and even a witch’s cottage before
we walked back through a field of sunflowers
to our waiting coaches. The cartoon-happy
faces of the blooms reflected my own.

explorer: section VIKING.COM 00 51
ITINERARY
KIEV, BLACK SEA & BUCHAREST
DAY 1, 2 & 3 / KIEV, UKRAINE
Tour Kiev, capital of Ukraine and one of
Europe’s oldest cities. See its historic buildings
and monuments, and take a guided tour of the
lovely St. Sophia Cathedral, a UNESCO World
Heritage Site crowned with 13 glimmering
domes. Afterward, continue to the Monastery
of the Caves, an extensive complex of domed
churches and museums founded by monks in
1051. Its Ukrainian name, Pechersk, comes
from the underground passages and chapels
that have been dug into the rocks alongside it.
Visit the fascinating Pirogovo Folk Museum, a
remarkable collection of more than 200 wooden
structures relocated and rebuilt here from
regions throughout Ukraine.
DAY 4 / THE DNIEPER RIVER
Enjoy a day of scenic cruising as you pass
undulating hills and vast open landscapes, and
traverse the Kremenchuk Reservoir as you sail
toward your next destination, Zaporozhye.
DAY 5 / ZAPOROZHYE, UKRAINE
Tour the ancestral home of the Cossacks,
and drive along the six-mile-long Cathedral
Prospect, passing the dam and the city’s
massive hydroelectric plant. Visit the Cossack
Museum of Khortitsa. Enjoy a special Cossack
horsemanship show full of daring acrobatics
accompanied by folkloric music and dance.
DAY 6 / KHERSON, UKRAINE
Enjoy scenic cruising down the Dnieper
River before arriving in Kherson. Walk along
the river embankment, see the monument
to Prince Potemkin and the statue of Prince
Alexander Suvorov – the city’s founder – and
visit St. Catherine’s Cathedral, decidedly
Mediterranean in design.
DAY 7, 8 & 9 / ODESSA, UKRAINE
Enjoy a half-day city tour of Odessa, an
elegant city of terraced hills and landscaped
parks. Travel along Primorsky Boulevard to
the Italian Baroque Opera House and the
Potemkin Steps, where one of the most famous
scenes in cinema was shot by Sergei Eisenstein
for his 1925 classic, Battleship Potemkin.
Then choose an optional tour to savour the
taste of Shustov cognac or discover Jewish
Odessa before attending a performance
at the Odessa Opera House, considered
one of the world’s most beautiful venues.
The next day take a guided tour of the
Odessa Art Museum. Housed in the grand
neoclassical Potocki Palace, its vast, rich
collection includes sculptures and decorative
arts spanning hundreds of years and paintings
by European artists of the 16th through early
19th centuries. On day 9, tour the fascinating
Odessa Catacombs. This maze of underground
tunnels began as a sandstone mining operation
but the abandoned mines were later used by
smugglers and Soviet partisans fighting fascist
invaders during World War II.
DAY 10, 11 & 12 / PROVINCIAL
ROMANIA & BUCHAREST
Arrive in Tulcea and board your motor coach
for a panoramic drive through the Romanian
countryside, with a stop for lunch at the
ancient city of Constanța, the oldest in
Romania. Proceed to Bucharest, check in to
your hotel and enjoy dinner on your own.
See the city’s wide boulevards, the Romanian
Athenaeum, the Arch of Triumph and
the People’s Palace. Enjoy photo stops at
several historic buildings and a visit to the
Stavropoleos Monastery. Built in 1724,
it celebrates Byzantine music and houses
the largest collection of Byzantine
music books in Romania.
A 12-day 2022 Kiev, Black Sea & Bucharest cruise from Kiev to Bucharest, starts from £3,245pp viking.com

One day in...
Kiev
Words Bethan Andrews
FAST FACTS
1. It wouldn’t be a trip
to the Ukrainian capital
without sampling some
borscht, a traditional
Ukrainian dish of beetroot
soup served up with
smetana (soured cream)
and garlic bread, that
locals are fiercely proud of.
2. You can visit the deepest
station in Europe when in
Kiev, as Arsenalna Station
is an impressive 105
metres below ground level.
3. It’s tradition to take
home a pysanka from Kiev
as a souvenir of your stay,
a Ukrainian egg intricately
decorated with beeswax
in national folk designs.

CITY GUIDE : KIEV 53
WIND YOUR WAY ON FOOT DOWN
ANDRIYIVSKYY DESCENT, THE OLDEST
AND MOST CHARMING STREET IN KIEV
INSIDER TIPS
01 UNIQUE TO KIEV
Kiev celebrates its birthday in
a big way, so each May (typically
the final weekend) you’ll find
that widespread celebrations,
parties and events titled Days
of Kiev take over the city.
Once known for its intricate
Soviet architecture, grand
streets and WWII history,
Kiev has really come into its own in
recent years with a vibrant cultural
scene, a creative revolution and
exciting food and drink additions.
MORNING
Explore the city, known as the
“Mother of Cities,” with its rich
heritage of Viking and Cossack
tradition. Drive down the tree-lined
boulevard of Khreshchatyk Avenue,
passing the great Monument of
Independence and the Church
of St. Andrew. Arrive at the
stunning St. Sophia Cathedral, a
UNESCO World Heritage Site,
and enjoy a guided tour of this
Byzantine wonder. Crowned with
13 glimmering domes, adorned with
mosaics of 177 different colours
and graced with enormous frescos,
the cathedral was built in 1037 to
commemorate the victory of Prince
Yaroslav the Wise over the Pecheneg
tribes. Then, visit the Monastery
of the Caves, an extensive complex
of domed churches and museums
founded by ascetic monks in 1051.
Fuel up for elevenses on coffee and
vareniki, a traditional Ukrainian
dough dumpling served either
sweet or sour from a local vendor.
AFTERNOON
Immerse yourself in the hustle
and bustle of Kiev’s upscale
Besarabsky Market. Featuring nearly
10,000 square feet of floor space,
Bersarabsky is the largest and one of
the oldest bazaars in Kiev. Opened
in 1912, the market has long been a
favourite of the Ukrainian capital’s
politicians and diplomats due to the
many high-quality items available
for purchase. The market is housed
behind a Neoclassical façade of
light-colored brick and glass. Watch
as locals barter with the vendors.
EVENING
If you’re on the lookout for
something stand-out to conclude
your day, it is well worth trying
some traditional Ukrainian cuisine
on an optional excursion. The
gastronomic delights are rooted in
peasant dishes that draw from grains
and staple vegetables such as wheat,
rye, sugar beets and potatoes.
02 ATTRACTION
Explore the many murals
appearing all over the Old
Town and spot why Kiev is
becoming one of the hotspots
of the European street art scene.
Meander along ​Striletska Street to
find some outstanding examples.
03 DID YOU KNOW?
The Monastery of the Caves
Ukrainian name, Pechersk, comes
from the underground passages
and chapels dug into the adjacent
rocks centuries ago.

54 ON LOCATION : WITH KARINE
ON LOCATION
WITH KARINE
Executive Vice President of Viking, Karine Hagen, shares the latest
preparations for the upcoming launch of Viking’s first expedition ships
This page Karine,
Liv Arnesen, Jørn
Henriksen, Director of
Expedition Operations
and Karine’s ‘quiet,
calm and beautiful’
dog Finse prepare the
teams for the new
expedition ships

explorer: VIKING.COM section 00 55
Above Careful
planning is an
important part
of any expedition
This month we are getting our expedition
teams ready for exploring the Arctic,
Antarctica, and the Great Lakes, on our
expedition journeys. This has involved training
guides on the Finse Plateau in Norway, the highest
point between Oslo and Bergen. Historically,
the Finse Plateau has been vitally important in
glacier training and preparing explorers, including
Amundsen, Scott, Nansen and, more recently,
Liv Arnesen and Ann Bancroft, godmothers to
our expedition ships, whose many achievements
include being the first women to cross Antarctica
on skis. On this same terrain, our guides spent days
preparing for what are sure to be among the most
exciting shore excursions in the world.
IT’S ALL IN A NAME!
One of the most beautiful spaces on board our new
expedition ships is the Finse Terrace, named after the
plateau. It offers the ultimate in outdoor comfort
with inviting sitting areas around a Nordic-style
warming pit. Everywhere you look, you are met with
spectacular views. The Finse Plateau is a particularly
beautiful and peaceful plateau that is close to my
heart. When my dog Finse was given to me I thought
I should name her after a favourite place – somewhere
quiet and calm. And I’m happy to say that Finse
has become the most quiet, calm and beautiful
dog – I think she does her name justice!
VIKING EXPEDITIONS’ GODMOTHERS,
LIV ARNESEN AND ANN BANCROFT
Our two expedition ships are named after important
stars in celestial navigation. Viking Octantis for the
southern star Sigma Octantis, and Viking Polaris
after the north star Polaris. The ships’ godmothers
were chosen for their achievements in the polar
regions of those same hemispheres. Liv Arnesen,
godmother to Viking Octantis, was the first woman
to ski solo to the South Pole. Ann Bancroft,
godmother to Viking Polaris, was the first woman to
reach the North Pole by sled and foot. And together
in 2001 Liv and Ann became the first women in
history to ski across Antarctica. These true explorers
have ventured to parts of the world few have ever
seen, and we are extremely honoured to welcome
Liv and Ann to the Viking family, and as the Viking
expedition ships’ godmothers.
NORWAY’S ‘MOUNTAIN CODE’
In Norway, we have a chocolate
called Kvikk Lunsj, which many
Norwegians take with them on
a trip or hike. Inside the wrapper
is a list of the nine ‘rules’ for
sensible and safe travel in the
mountains. These are called
Fjellvettreglene, which literally
translates as ‘mountain sense
rules’ and are very much a
part of hiking in the mountains
in Norway, as is the chocolate
itself – and an orange!
FJELLVETTREGLENE:
1. Plan your trip and inform others
about the route you have selected
2. Adapt the planned route
according to ability and conditions
3. Pay attention to the weather
and the avalanche warnings
4. Be prepared for bad weather
and frost, even on short trips
5. Bring the necessary equipment,
so you can help yourself and others
6. Choose safe routes, recognise
avalanche terrain and unsafe ice
7. Use a map and a compass,
always know where you are
8. Don’t be ashamed to turn around
9. Conserve your energy and
seek shelter if necessary

Plant
explorer
From tiny bulbs come great stories
Words Paul Hervey-Brookes
BIOGRAPHY
Paul Hervey-Brookes
is an internationally
renowned garden
designer and
plantsman. A past
gold medal winner at
Chelsea, he is now
an RHS judge
We have collected plants from
all around the world, with the
history of exploration littered
with chance plant discoveries. Often tales
of daring go hand-in-hand with hunting
for elusive plants – tea plants and dahlia’s
being amongst the most extraordinary,
yet mostly now taken for granted.
It’s in spring that the first signs of these
journeys show themselves in our gardens,
emerging from winter’s frozen ground and
heralding days of warmth and plenty ahead.
Bulbs may now be easily available but they
still hold the mystery of their elusive origin.
The china blue flowers of Scilla are one of
the first welcome sights from late January.
Squills or bluebells, a common sight in
European woodlands, lack a romantic story.
However, the smaller more unusual alpine,
Scilla, comes into flower much earlier and
with brilliant blue flowers roughly 10cm
high, such as Scilla mischtschenkoana. These
are not only beautiful, but have travelled
back from the high deserts of the South
Caucasus and Iran, after being viewed
against the golden sands of spring.
The most common small Scilla is Scilla
siberica (pictured), the Siberian Squill, which
for such a small bulb has an impressive range
from southwestern Russia, the Caucasus
and Turkey. It is confusingly named by
the British botanist Adrian Haworth, for

GARDENING 57
GARDENS TO
VISIT : SPRING
despite its name it is not native to Siberia.
The genus Haworthia, a group of succulents
from Mozambique and Namibia (pictured
above) is named after him rather curiously.
Of course, the most famous of spring bulbs
comes a little later in season. Tulips have
been in cultivation a very long time; there
are roughly 75 naturally occurring species
in Europe (Tulipa sylvestris and scadica
being the most common) and another 70
odd covering The Middle East to Turkey
and China, including Tulipa turkestanica
(pictured, below) which was cultivated in the
gardens of Constantinople as early as 1055.
Tulips were a highly prized part of Islamic
culture and became a symbol of the Ottoman
Empire. We know that in 1574, long before
the European craze for tulips, Sultan Selim
II ordered the Kadi of Azaz in Syria to
send him 50,000 tulip bulbs and 300,000
bulbs of Tulipa schrenkii from the Crimea
for his gardens in the Topkapi Palace.
In 1573 Carolus Clusius planted large
swathes of tulips at the Vienna Imperial
Botanic Garden and wrote a volume
indicating their colours and variations
– the touch paper was lit! Carolus
was appointed director of the Leiden
University’s Hortus Botanicus before
planting both a teaching garden and his
private garden with tulips in late 1593.
Thus, 1594 is considered the date of the
tulip’s first flowering in the Netherlands,
despite reports of them in private gardens
in Antwerp and Amsterdam much earlier.
Over two raids, in 1596 and in 1598, more
than one hundred bulbs were stolen from
his garden. By the 17th century tulips had
spread across Europe. Between 1634 and
1637, the period known as Tulip Mania,
a single bulb was being exchanged for a
country house in France. Ruination and
obsession followed and fortunes were lost.
However, the humble tulip remains with
us, and thanks to the high stakes of the 17th
century is now throughly associated with
the Netherlands where cultivated forms are
collectively know as Dutch Tulips. Perhaps
it is fitting that the largest permanent
collection of tulips is now to be found in the
Netherlands and the Keukenhof garden.
These two bulbs, like so many plants of
humble origin, have had such an impact on
the cultural history of both Western and
Middle Eastern culture that sometimes it
seems incredible to believe. Looking past
the modest cheer they offer after the lean
months of winter, they have shaped not
only the cultural identity of two countries
but have cost more than a château!
The Keukenhof
One of the world’s largest
flower gardens covering 32
acres with 7 million bulbs
keukenhof.nl
Painswick
Rococo Garden
The sole surviving garden
from the English Rococo
period with one of the
largest naturalised
plantings of Galanthus
and later species Scilla
and Narcissus
rococogarden.org.uk
RHS Wisley
The Royal Horticultural
Society garden Wisley
has an enormous collection
of spring bulbs, early
season perennials and
shrubs. Members
receive free entrance.
rhs.org.uk

58 VIKING.COM
ART on board
Discover a story of two artists
who came together to make history
Words Lesley Bellew Main photo Chris Caldicott

ON BOARD : ART 59
Viking holds the biggest private collection
of Edvard Munch’s work – but did you
know it was the Norwegian landscape
painter Adelsteen Normann who was the godfather
of expressionist painter Munch’s Frieze of Life
series, including The Scream?
While wandering through to the restaurant on
Viking Jupiter with my mind more on meeting
friends than great works of art, a huge oil on canvas
Fjord Landscape caught my eye – the restful work of
Adlesteen Normann (1848–1918), who is credited
with creating tourism in the Norwegian fjords. The
Norwegian landscape painter was also instrumental
in bringing Edvard Munch into the public eye.
In the second half of the 19th century, Normann’s
epic scenes were of such a quality and scale that
admirers of his work wanted to see the fjords for
themselves and so headed for Norway. Normann
stood out among his contemporaries because their
scenes of fjord life tended to just be support for
images of farm girls and wedding parties.
As a boat skipper’s son from Vågøya, north of
Bodø, Normann knew the fjords well but spent his
adult life in Berlin, painting landscapes of western
Norway as well as scenes of the midnight sun. Like
many Norwegian artists of his time, Normann
trained at the Düsseldorf Academy in Germany and
was influenced by Hans Gude (1825-1903), but
soon rejected the academic model for landscape art
and adopted this more epic approach.
Fjord Landscape shows steep mountains rising
out of the mirror-like fjord where two men in a
rowing boat and a waterside house are dwarfed in
a serene scene. Art lecturer Adrian Sumner, who is
a regular guest speaker on Viking ships, explained:
Left While Edvard Munch was
all about psychological drama,
Adelsteen Normann created
calm reflections and the majestic
glories of Norway’s mountainous
landscapes and fjords

60 ON BOARD : ART
ART NOTES
Interactive event Through an
exclusive relationship with Oslo’s Munch
Museum, Viking has been granted the
digital rights to the entire collection of
Norway’s most famous artist, Edvard
Munch. Munch Moments brings the
magic of this master expressionist on
board, with a daily, interactive event
that showcases several pieces of his great
art curated by theme each evening at 6pm
in the comfort of The Living Room.
Clockwise from top
left The Day After,
1894 in drypoint;
A digital version of
The Scream, 1893;
Young Woman on
the Beach, 1896 all
by Edvard Munch
“At this time landscape painting was pretty far
down the academic scale of importance, which
valued history painting above all else. This work was
radical and became part of a move towards Romantic
Nationalism, key at this time to re-establishing the
national identity of Norway and Finland. Norway
had been part of Sweden, and Finland had been
ruled by Russia, so this individual national identity
became something of a cause célèbre as the 19th
century progressed.”
Normann moved to Berlin and became the German
emperor’s favourite – although it was not all plain
sailing. Normann invited Norwegian expressionist
painter Edvard Munch to exhibit in Germany’s
capital. When the Verein Berliner Künstler
exhibition opened in 1892, Munch’s work was
considered so shocking that the exhibition had to
close after one week. However, Munch stayed in
the city with Normann and developed the series
of psychologically dramatic paintings which were
to become his Frieze of Life, a series of paintings
with the themes love, illness and death including
The Scream (1893). Normann’s own work never
made the same impact as Munch but he did change
the course of art. In Viking Jupiter’s Living Room,
The Day After is a striking Munch, a print from
his well-known painting. In the UK we would
say ‘the morning after’ but it has much the same
meaning with a woman laid out on a bed looking
all the worse for wear – but still rather beautiful.
Some commentators say her face is similar to those
in Munch’s Madonna series. There is also some
thought that the woman was the wife of a friend
or colleague, perhaps Dany Juul, who was Munch’s
obsession for a time.
Either way, The Day After is a Munch masterpiece,
sympathetic of human frailty and perhaps, his own
interest in alcohol and its inevitable consequences.
Passengers can explore The Day After on Deck
One before walking up to the restaurant entrance
on Deck Two to see Adelsteen Normann’s Fjord
Landscape which is the only piece of his in the
Viking art collection.

Viking Jupiter
sits magestically in
port in Kotor Harbour,
Montenegro. A total
of 44 original Munch
artworks can be found
aboard the Viking
ships Juniper, Sun and
the new Viking Venus
VIKING.COM 61

VIKING BOOK CLUB
JOIN OUR BOOK CLUB vikingrivercruises.co.uk/why-viking/community/book-club.html
If you’re looking for reading recommendations for the holidays, then look
no further. Here are a selection of Viking staff’s favourite paperbacks
WHERE THE
CRAWDADS SING
BY DELIA OWENS
So many people told
me to read this book
and, when I finally
did, I was so pleased
I had followed their
advice. It’s definitely
my favourite book of the year so far. It’s
a moving tale of survival, loneliness, love
and murder set in the marshes of North
Carolina. Abandoned by her family as
a child, Kya grows up alone, fending for
herself on the marsh where she falls in love
with nature and her surroundings. The
writing is beautiful and I didn’t want it to
end despite the fact the last few chapters
reduced me to tears on the train home!
I can’t wait to read it again in the future.
£14.99, Hachette
NO HORIZON
IS SO FAR
BY LIV ARNESEN AND
ANN BANCROFT
This remarkable
book documents
the expedition of
the first two women
to cross Antarctica,
as they walked, skied, and ice-sailed for
almost three months in temperatures
reaching as low as -35°F, all while towing
their 250-pound supply sledges across
1,700 miles of ice full of dangerous
crevasses. The former school teachers
even broadcast by web and phone
their expedition to more than three
million students in sixty-five countries
to teach geography, science, and the
importance of following your dreams.
£10.99, University of Minnesota Press
THE PENGUIN
LESSONS
BY TOM MICHELL
While in his 20’s
and on holiday
in Uruguay, Tom
Mitchell spots a
penguin struggling
in an oil slick and
knows he has to help. What he didn’t
count on was that the rescued penguin
refuses to leave his side, so Tom smuggles
him across the border and back to the
Argentine boarding school he holds a
teaching post at. He affectionately calls
his new pet penguin Juan Salvador.
This heartwarming and enchanting
tale beautifully recounts how Tom’s
unlikely new pal literally transforms
the lives of everyone he meets.
£9.99, Penguin
MARRIED TO
A BEDOUIN BY
MARGUERITE VAN
GELDERMALSEN
If you like travel
books, you’ll enjoy
this tale of how a
New Zealand-born
nurse came to be
married to Mohammad Abdallah Othman,
a Bedouin souvenir-seller from the ancient
city of Petra in Jordan. It was 1978 and
she was travelling through the Middle East
when she met the charismatic Mohammad
who convinced her to move into his cave. It
charts how she becomes thankful for a new
simple and contented life as she comes to
love these people and the ancient Bedouin
traditions now lost to the modern world.
£9.99, Little Brown
THE RED TENT
BY ANITA DIAMANT
If the opinion
of Hollywood
superstars are
anything to go by,
you may be swayed
by Julia Roberts
apparently claiming
this book “changed my life.” In The Red
Tent American journalist Anita Diamant
brings the fascinating biblical character
of Dinah to vivid life, imagining all
the gaps the Bible stories leave out. But
more than that, it combines a rich skill
in storytelling with an original insight
into women’s society in a fascinating
period of early history – but with a
perhaps surprising warmth and candour.
£14.99, Pan Macmillan
THE PEOPLE
IN THE TREES
BY HANYA
YANAGIHARA
An astute observation
of human behaviour
and what can happen
when cultures collide.
Set in 1950, Norton
Perina, a young doctor, embarks on an
expedition to a remote Micronesian island
in search of a lost tribe. He encounters a
group of forest dwellers who have attained
a form of immortality. Perina uncovers
their secret and returns with it to America,
where he soon finds great success.
Although it wins him a Nobel Prize, his
discovery comes at a terrible cost, not only
for the islanders, but for Perina himself.
£12.99, Doubleday

BOOKS : REVIEW 63
Behind the scenes
Seasons at Highclere - a book review
Responding to the renewed interest in
seasonal cookery, The Countess of
Carnarvon has compiled a comforting
collection of favourite recipes inspired by life in
the iconic Castle of Downton Abbey fame. Where
the main buildings on the 1,300-year-old estate
have changed dramatically throughout history, the
enchanting home that we’ve come to know and
love was designed by renowned Victorian architect
Sir Charles Barry. And with grounds designed by
Capability Brown, you can see why Highclere
Castle offers such inspiration for The Countess,
her family and the thousands who visit each year.
The Countess of
Carnarvon offers
seasonal advice
on growing,
gardening
and cooking
in a beautiful
guide to living
inspired by life in
Highclere Castle
Clearly divided into the four seasons, the beautifully
illustrated book recounts treasured memories
and traditions from inside and out with stunning
photography of the gardens and animals that they
share it with. This very personal account offers
inside tips for life, with gardening and cooking
covered in detail. Written like a much-loved journal,
Countess Fiona recounts the history of the Georgian
architecture, the follies, the woods of enchantment,
the secret gardens, the monks’ garden, and the
estate’s wildflower meadows. Alongside charming
anecdotes and interesting snippets of history, the
book is packed with sumptuous recipes for dishes
inspired by local, seasonal produce, such as the
Honeyed Winter Salad (pictured left). Seasons at
Highclere offers gastronomical delights, the stories
of the treasures within Highclere Castle’s grounds,
untold secrets from the castle’s archives and much
more. This is a book to be cherished, re-read and
shared with your own family for years to come.
Seasons at Highclere by The Countess of
Carnarvon published by Century, £30

BIOGRAPHY
Award-winning
British photographer
Alastair Miller’s first
true passion was the
sea. “I always search
for the unexpected,
the small detail
in the larger
landscape.”
His work is widely
published in
lifestyle magazines
and newspapers,
principally The
Times and The
Sunday Times
THROUGH THE LENS WITH
ALASTAIR
MILLER
Words & Pictures Alastair Miller
Alastair Miller reflects on returning
to Valletta after many decades to
discover the thrill of the place has
certainly not diminished

DESTINATIONS : MALTA 69
Left Malta’s
Blue Grotto is
a complex of
seven caves
found along
the southern
coast of the
island, and
famous for
its crystal
clear waters
The first time I sailed into the embrace
of Malta’s Valletta harbour, I was a
nervous teenage apprentice onboard a
rusting and weary cargo ship, bound for Israel.
That morning, as the sun rose, we gathered our
pilot and glided slowly in, past Arab dhows,
their curved masts and lateen sails catching the
first whispers of an early breeze.
Once past the entrance to Grand Harbour,
the city opened up, pulled us in, surrounded
us on all sides, an amorphous tangle of walls,
towers, houses and churches, soaked in the
warm apricot light of dawn. There’s not much
else I remember from that first visit to Malta.
I know we wouldn’t have stayed long, just
enough to unload some cargo, maybe a run
ashore, a bar or two. But I have never forgotten
the magic of that arrival and how, to my young
and impressionable eyes, I had truly entered
the exotic. This year, when I returned for the
first time, I was anxious as to whether the arc of
time had changed something or diminished my
memory, but I needn’t have worried – Valletta
is still today one of the most thrilling sail-ins
you will possibly ever experience.
And just as the first time, I was back here
in Malta for work, but now wearing a very
different hat. And so, with a bagful of cameras,
some scribbled notes and a sort of schedule, I
set off. Malta is small, hot and crowded, but it
is also animated and friendly. Its geographical
location, a day’s sail south of Sicily, from
where the first settlers arrived in 5900BC, has
made it an easy and desirable acquisition for
conquerors and invaders over its history, from
the Phoenicians to the Romans, the Greeks,

70 DESTINATIONS : MALTA
Arabs and Normans to the Knights of St. John,
the French and even the British. All have left
a reminder of their presence. The Knights of
St. John deserve a special mention, as it was
they who constructed the fortress walls and
towers that is the Valletta we know today.
Originally known as the Knights Hospitaller,
their mission was to provide care for the sick,
poor or injured pilgrims returning from the
Holy Land, the Israel and Palestine territories
today. The rise of the Ottoman Empire
forced them to militarise, and after various
battles and sieges against superior forces, the
wandering Knights found themselves without
fixed quarters to call home. Salvation came in
1530, when King Charles V of Spain, gave the
knights the islands of Malta and neighbouring
Gozo, in exchange for the modest annual fee of
one Maltese falcon. At last, they had a place to
call home. Their arch enemies, the Ottomans,
were a constant threat, forcing the Knights to
build fortifications in what we know today as
Valletta. Things came to a head in 1565 when,
in one of history’s greatest sieges, the vastly
outnumbered Knights resisted a 40,000 strong
Ottoman armada, until a rescue force arrived
from Sicily. With victory in hand, and having
quashed the Ottoman threat to Christendom,
the Knights ruled Malta for the next 268
years before it was eventually seized by the
French under Napoleon. Later still it became a
colony of the British. The Knights were not
idle during their time on the island. They built
a capital city with its attendant watch towers
and fortifications, hospitals and churches – art
and culture flourished. And today, the legacy
of the Knights and their heraldic symbol, the
eight-pointed Maltese cross is omnipresent.
But my favourite remnant of their rule are the
Knights’ Steps, wide-spaced and low-rising
stone steps up Valletta’s hills, perfect for a
Knight in cumbersome armour!
Churches and cathedrals abound on this
heavily Roman Catholic Island. If you only
visit one, I’d strongly recommend St. John’s
Co-Cathedral in Valletta, if for no other reason
Above, from left
St. Agatha’s Tower
in Mellieha is
better known as
The Red Tower;
St John’s
Co-Cathedral,
Valletta Below,
left Entering
part of the Blue
Grotto by boat

VIKING.COM 71
VALLETTA IS STILL ONE OF THE MOST THRILLING
SAIL-INS YOU WILL POSSIBLY EVER EXPERIENCE
than to contemplate the largest and only signed
painting by Caravaggio, The Beheading of Saint
John the Baptist. But there’s much more to
admire, especially the vast floor of magnificent
coloured marble tombstones of buried Knights,
literally history under your feet.
For a photographer, Malta is a joy. Images
call from all directions. Push yourself out
before dawn and wander Valletta’s streets and
walls. Your spirits will rise with the sun, and
for two or three hours the city will belong to
you and your camera. Come 9 o’clock the
light begins to whiten, and the heat pours in.
Time for breakfast, a street café table, coffee
and pastizzi, a heartening savoury pastry,
traditionally filled with ricotta or mushy peas.
Venturing out from Valletta, there is much to
see. One highlight is the walled town of Mdina
in the middle of the island. Sitting proudly on
a hilltop, this onetime capital of the island is
completely wrapped in honey-coloured high
walls, behind which huddle a cacophony
of twisted streets and small elegant squares.
It’s made for walking as cars are prohibited,
so follow your curiosity. Once again on a
hilltop, this time overlooking the sea on the
southern edge of the island, I discovered the
megalithic temple complex of Hagar Qim.
At over 5000 years old, it is one of the most
ancient religious sites on earth and deservedly,
a World Heritage Site.
At roughly the same size as Manhattan, Malta’s
little sister, the island of Gozo, sits a ferry ride
away, a place of big churches, small villages
and some of the best scuba diving you’ll find
anywhere. I stumbled across the Xwejni Salt
Pans, a lacework of rock pools where the natural
elements of sun, sea and wind will evaporate the
water, leaving behind the snow-white crystals of
sea-salt ready for harvesting. I bought a small bag
of it. The owner tells me he has been doing this
tough, hot work for over 50 years, continuing a
centuries-old tradition. Back in Valletta, on my
last evening on the island, I treated myself to the
national dish of ‘Stuffat Tal-Fenek’, a delicious
rabbit stew, slowly cooked in red wine. And
just so it didn’t feel lonely, I ordered up a bottle
of local Marsovin wine and then watched the
sky shift through shades of orange to blue to
black, and remembered my first visit to Malta,
all those years ago and how my life had come
full circle. I’ve changed a lot in the intervening
years - Malta, not so much.
Above, from left
Ta’Pinu Basilica
on the island
of Gozo; Viking
Star entering the
harbour at Valletta

72 VIKING.COM
PUZZLES
Take time out to enjoy some simple brain teazers
1 2
3 4
5
6
7
8
9
10 11
12
13
14
15
16
TRAVEL CROSSWORD
CLUES
Across
5 Home to Bishops’ Residenz, one of
Germany’s largest and most ornate
baroque palaces
7 A 4,000 mile river
and a rainforest
8 The oldest city in Holland,
bordered by five rivers
11 This place is known for music
composed by Mozart and Strauss
12 Birthplace of the Protestant
Reformation
14 The location of Graceland
15 Famous for cave monasteries
and a popular chicken dish
16 Home to the Palace of the Popes
Down
1 French for Our Lady
2 The World’s oldest demarcated
wine region and a UNESCO Site
3 The Great Pyramids of Khufu,
Khafre and...
4 A famous Post Impressionist
painter from Arles
6 A distinctive feature of
St. Basil’s Cathedral
9 A famous river which is also a waltz
10 Known for its iconic windmills
13 The World’s longest river

EXPLORE MORE : PUZZLES 73
GREAT LAKES WORD SEARCH
WORDS TO FIND
Apostle Islands
Traverse City
Mackinac Island
Point Pelee
Toronto
Welland Canal
Thunder Bay
Niagra Falls
Detroit
Soo Locks
Georgian Bay
Alpena
Milwaukee
Houghton
Duluth
SIMPLE SUDOKU
6 2 7 9 3 1
1 7 9 2 5 6
1 9 4 7
1 2
6 5 1
4 2 6 7
5 6 9 7 2
2 3 7 5
9 7 1 6
M Y T S O O L O C K S E N A
W A R R T E R T N G E I P Y
E B C A A P O B W L A O H A
L N A K A V A A E G S A O B
L A L A I S E P A T L D U R
A I P B S N T R L A A N G E
N G E N E N A E S P L D H D
D R N Y I F I C T E U S T N
C O A O A S N I I L C E O U
A E P L L G O L U S T I N H
N G L A A R H T A I L M T T
A S N C T D H L N A N A T Y
L D H E E K U A W L I M N R
S H D L O A T O R O N T O D
Don’t miss our
PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION TO WIN
A FORTNUM & MASON CHRISTMAS HAMPER WORTH £250
With just the snaps that are already on your smart phone you could
win an indulgent Christmas hamper from this iconic London store.
Simply send us your pictures from your last Viking cruise for your
chance to win. See page 42 for more details.
ANSWERS
1
N
2
D
O
T
3
M
O
U V
4
5
WURZBURG
6
O E R A
E
D
A
N
I
O
N
K
A
O
R
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N
G
O
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AMAZON U V G
E
8
DORDRECHT
9
D O E R
10
K A M
11
V I E N N A
12
W I T T E N B E R G A
N U S
L
D B
13
N L
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14
MEMPHIS E
R
D
L
15
K I E V
Y
16
A V I G N O N
J
K
M Y T S O O L O C K S E N A
W A R R T E R T N G E I P Y
E B C A A P O B W L A O H A
L N A K A V A A E G S A O B
L A L A I S E P A T L D U R
A I P B S N T R L A A N G E
N G E N E N A E S P L D H D
D R N Y I F I C T E U S T N
C O A O A S N I I L C E O U
A E P L L G O L U S T I N H
N G L A A R H T A I L M T T
A S N C T D H L N A N A T Y
L D H E E K U A W L I M N R
S H D L O A T O R O N T O D
8 6 4 2 7 5 9 3 1
1 7 9 4 3 8 2 5 6
3 2 5 6 1 9 4 7 8
7 8 1 9 4 6 3 2 5
6 5 2 3 8 7 1 9 4
9 4 3 1 5 2 6 8 7
5 1 6 8 9 3 7 4 2
2 3 8 7 6 4 5 1 9
4 9 7 5 2 1 8 6 3

74 SHOPPING : FASHION
COOL
ACCESSORIES
Aventurine healing
stone ring;
Nicole purse
£15 from accessorize.com
£26 from oliverbonas.com
NAUTICAL TOUCH
Breton striped
long sleeve t-shirt
£65 from veryan.studio
WRAP UP WARM
Anyday recycled long
puffer in khaki
£95 from johnlewis.com
FASHION FAVOURITES
Eleanor Rice chooses some
timeless staples to kit you out
for the coming season
HAND WARMERS
Nikolai knitted gloves
£18 from dunelondon.com
SMART CASUAL
Lipsy long sleeve
smock midi dress
£48 from next.co.uk
ALL IN ONE
Short sleeved linen
jumpsuit in sage green
£107 from offonclothing.com
NEW KNITWEAR
Beanie DK33-213
in amber
£34 from project-aj117.com
ALL IMAGES Iin this publication Viking or Adobe Stock
unless shot by the author or otherwise credited

Explore the Great Lakes and Canada,
on expedition ships designed for discovery
The Great Lakes are an undiscovered treasure, boasting stunning national parks,
in a region that is rich in culture and history.
Here, you can experience a deep connection to nature in a genuinely remote wilderness.
Watch for wildlife, from bald eagles to moose, grey wolves, bears and beavers. Reach across
cultures with the First Nations’ people. Hike through pristine forests, and glide silently by
kayak across Georgian Bay – a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Discover Canada’s colonial past
and beautiful lakeshores. Visit the majestic Niagara Falls, all accompanied by expert guides.
Viking offers a choice of inspiring new journeys around the Great Lakes, as well as voyages to
the Arctic and Antarctica.
To enable you to best explore the Great Lakes, we have assembled a world-class expedition
team to lead you on engaging shore landings and esteemed scientific partnerships to deliver
enriching programmes.
The expedition ship perfected, Viking Polaris and Viking Octantis are home to just 378 guests
and guild on our legacy of exploration with many industry firsts. Availability is limited and we
are new taking bookings for our 2022 and 2023 itineraries. Join us on the ultimate adventure
aboard an expedition ship that offers the ultimate in comfort.
Find out more about our extraordinary expedition ships and our
equally extraordinary journeys to the Arctic, Antarctica and the
Great Lakes. Call 0800 014 7538 or book online at viking.com

Embark on the ultimate adventure
to the Arctic or Antarctica
Discover the true Arctic on a journey to the top of the world, where polar bears reign
and blue ice floats serenely on the horizon. Or explore Antarctica, the Last Continent,
that is covered in ice and teeming with penguins, seals and whales.
Our new expedition journeys reveal a breathtaking view of the planet in its purest
state, and take you to pristine landscapes to see wildlife in its natural habitat.
To allow you to best explore these unrivalled destinations, we have assembled a
world-class expedition team to lead you on engaging shore landings, and esteemed
scientific partnerships to develop enriching onboard programmes.
The expedition ship perfected, Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris are home to just 378
guests, and build on our legacy of exploration, with many industry firsts. Availability is
limited and we are now taking bookings for our 2022 and 2023 voyages. Join us on the
ultimate adventure aboard a ship that offers the ultimate in comfort.
Find out more about our extraordinary expedition ships and our
equally extraordinary journeys to the Arctic, Antarctica and the
Great Lakes. Call 0800 014 7538 or book online at viking.com