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VIKING.COM 49<br />

DID YOU KNOW?<br />

Kiev is the capital of Ukraine<br />

and one of Europe’s oldest<br />

cities. From the 9th century<br />

on, Kiev was the main Dnieper<br />

River trade centre on the route<br />

from Scandinavia to the<br />

Black Sea and Constantinople.<br />

We’d already enjoyed our orientation tour and<br />

trip to the art gallery but it was the catacombs<br />

that captivated me. Hundreds of miles of<br />

tunnels were dug in the 19th century to mine<br />

limestone to construct Odessa’s handsome<br />

buildings. Leaving Odessa late in the evening,<br />

Viking Sineus cruised along the Black Sea coast<br />

before turning into the sprawling delta of the<br />

Dnieper, Europe’s third-largest river.<br />

Image of Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra, John Wilmott<br />

We awoke to a vista of lush riverbanks speckled<br />

with ramshackle homes, soon arriving in the<br />

shipbuilding city of Kherson. It turned out that<br />

many of the ship’s crew were from Kherson and<br />

they took the opportunity for a quick catch-up<br />

with their families while we visited a riverside<br />

park and were treated to a mini-concert by<br />

three ladies in traditional dress under a tree. The<br />

scenery changed regularly as we sailed north.<br />

Apart from the occasional factory, village and<br />

lonely church, I was intrigued by how empty<br />

much of this vast country was, but what amazed<br />

me the most were the beaches. Pockets of<br />

sand along the shore were invariably occupied<br />

by families splashing in the water and waving<br />

at our passing cruise ship. I spent much time<br />

taking in the views from the Sun Deck of Viking<br />

Sineus, retreating to the air-conditioning of the<br />

forward observation lounge with its wraparound<br />

windows when the sun became a little too hot.<br />

Dnipro was my favourite port of call along the<br />

river. The fact that this bustling city is a bit<br />

battered in parts added to the appeal – it’s a real,<br />

living entity with few nods to tourism. After our<br />

introductory tour and visit to the museum, I<br />

walked along the splendid esplanade that runs<br />

for miles along the river. Here is where city<br />

Top St. Sophia<br />

with its thirteen<br />

glittering domes<br />

is a distinctive<br />

feature of the<br />

city Above The<br />

resplendent<br />

Kyevo-Pecherska<br />

Lavra monastery<br />

in Kyiv

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