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VIKING.COM 13<br />
WE FEASTED ON TREATS, SUCH AS HERRING WITH RYE<br />
BREAD AND HEART-SHAPED WAFFLES<br />
the Bayeux Tapestry. Why? Because William the<br />
Conqueror and his army were Norsemen, Vikings<br />
who settled in Normandy, of course.<br />
Viking Sea has two alternative restaurants in addition<br />
to the main dining room, Manfredi’s Italian and The<br />
Chef’s Table which offers tasting menus that change<br />
every three days. We made sure to try the Scandinavian<br />
menu, in keeping with our surroundings. Unusually<br />
for ocean ships, there is no supplement for The Chef’s<br />
Table or Manfredi’s. Complimentary wine and beer<br />
come with lunch and dinner, Wi-Fi is free, and one<br />
excursion is included in every port (along with ones<br />
you can book at extra charge) – just like on Viking’s<br />
large fleet of longships that sail the world’s rivers.<br />
After a relaxing evening listening to a violin recital<br />
of music by Norwegian composer Ole Bull in The<br />
Star Theatre, and a dreamless night in our restfully<br />
decorated balcony cabin, we awoke to wisps of mist<br />
rising from the deep water of Eidfjord. Soon the sun<br />
was shining on waterfalls spilling down the steep, pineclad<br />
mountains into the fjord. Our included tour took<br />
us by coach up the valley to Hardangervidda Nature<br />
Centre where goats grazed on the roof of the gift shop!<br />
The next morning we arrived in our third and final<br />
Norwegian port, Stavanger, the oil-rich city with a<br />
winning combination of quaint old and gleaming<br />
new architecture. Our included walking tour took us<br />
straight to the Petroleum Museum, a steel structure<br />
on the water resembling an oil platform. It was a<br />
revelation to discover how attractive drill bits can be!<br />
In the Old Town, the world’s only Canning Museum<br />
housed in a 19th-century factory could not have<br />
been more different. Here we had the opportunity to<br />
practice the tricky art of packing sprats and to buy<br />
‘vintage 2010’ sardines, a steal at £14 a tin.<br />
That evening we skipped an evening of fine dining<br />
to join six other guests at Sauna Night in The Spa.<br />
Under the guidance of Norwegian therapist Maria,<br />
we brushed ourselves vigorously with bristles until<br />
our skin tingled, ran in and out of the sauna, snow<br />
grotto and steam room, hot to cold to hot, then<br />
thwacked each other with leafy birch twigs until<br />
the pore-closing, heart-stopping finale. One by one<br />
we stepped forward to pull the chain to up-end a<br />
wooden bucket above our heads to be drenched in<br />
cold water. I clutched my face in a passable imitation<br />
of the tortured soul in Munch’s iconic painting, The<br />
Scream! This was a truly immersive Scandinavian<br />
experience that I highly recommend.<br />
My favourite spot on Viking Sea for a leisurely<br />
breakfast was Mamsen’s. It set us up perfectly to potter<br />
around Copenhagen on our own including a pleasant<br />
walk along the waterfront, past the crowds paying<br />
homage to the Little Mermaid. Back on board we<br />
spent the afternoon browsing the magnificent books<br />
in the <strong>Explore</strong>rs’ Lounge with a break for a lavish<br />
afternoon tea in the Wintergarden. The included tour<br />
from the port of WarnemÜnde is a day trip to Berlin.<br />
By chartering a train, some 750 of Viking Sea’s 930<br />
passengers took the three-and-a-half-hour rail journey<br />
each way. Armed with maps provided by Viking and<br />
fortified by the local speciality of currywurst (sausages<br />
and chips in spicy sauce), we had four hours to scoot<br />
round Checkpoint Charlie, remnants of the Berlin<br />
Wall, the Reichstag and Brandenburg Gate and linger<br />
at the deeply moving Holocaust Memorial. Likewise,<br />
the days in Tallinn, Helsinki, and the overnights in St.<br />
Petersburg and Stockholm were perfect for revisiting<br />
favourite spots in interesting and very different cities.<br />
All great reasons to take a Viking Homelands cruise on<br />
delightful Scandi-chic Viking ships.<br />
A 15-day 2023 Viking Homelands cruise from Stockholm to Bergen, starts from £5,040pp viking.com