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26 | March 5, 2020 | the homer horizon dining out<br />

homerhorizondaily.com<br />

The Dish<br />

Family-run gyros restaurant celebrates 25 years in Lockport<br />

Benjamin Conboy<br />

Assistant Editor<br />

One day in 1995, Nicky<br />

Theodossopoulos called<br />

his son Tim’s high school.<br />

He told them the gyros<br />

restaurant he just opened<br />

in Lockport had a line out<br />

the front door. The cops<br />

were there directing traffic,<br />

because there were so<br />

many customers, even at a<br />

time when the surrounding<br />

area was still mostly farmland.<br />

Nicky needed Tim to<br />

leave school and come to<br />

work.<br />

Twenty-five years later,<br />

not much has changed at<br />

Nicky’s Gyros. Though<br />

Nicky died 10 years ago,<br />

the restaurant that is his<br />

namesake lives on with<br />

his three children at the<br />

helm.<br />

Tim and his two sisters,<br />

Sophie Theodossopoulos<br />

and Genie Hart, have<br />

worked at the restaurant<br />

every day since 1995.<br />

Sophie now has two<br />

children of her own who<br />

work there, and it is her<br />

son’s dream to open up his<br />

own gyros shop.<br />

Genie’s husband, Mark,<br />

also helps at the restaurant.<br />

One day, the Harts’ 3-yearold<br />

son — named Nick after<br />

Genie’s father — may<br />

work there, too.<br />

“It’s a real family affair,”<br />

Hart said. “And we’d<br />

like to keep it that way.”<br />

Despite working in close<br />

quarters with their siblings<br />

day in and day out for 25<br />

years, the trio say they<br />

rarely encounter squabbles<br />

as brothers and sisters tend<br />

to do.<br />

“Thank God we don’t<br />

get into it,” Genie said.<br />

“If we have a disagreement,<br />

we try to talk. We<br />

don’t though. If we need<br />

“It’s a real<br />

family affair.<br />

And we’d like<br />

to keep it that<br />

way.”<br />

Genie Hart — coowner<br />

of Nicky’s Gyros<br />

to make a decision, we talk<br />

about it, but we all usually<br />

agree.”<br />

The siblings continue to<br />

use the philosophy of restaurant<br />

stewardship that<br />

their father outlined for<br />

them decades ago.<br />

“He was into quality; he<br />

always believed in quality,”<br />

Sophie said. “We<br />

never changed recipes or<br />

brands.”<br />

Their gyros ($5.80) are<br />

still made with the same<br />

recipe for tzatziki sauce<br />

that the elder Theodossopoulos<br />

crafted. They still<br />

marinate their own chicken<br />

and make the chicken<br />

noodle soup ($3.39) with a<br />

special twist they declined<br />

to disclose to avoid it being<br />

poached by another<br />

restaurant. They still use<br />

the same Grecian Delight<br />

top-quality gyros cones<br />

that were served on opening<br />

day.<br />

“If you look at the ingredients<br />

for our gyros,<br />

there’s no fillers,” Sophie<br />

said. “There’s no bonding.<br />

You can pronounce all of<br />

the words. So, when people<br />

ask why our gyros are<br />

so expensive, it’s because<br />

we [buy the best meat].”<br />

Even though the roots<br />

of Nicky’s Gyros remain<br />

firmly grounded in their<br />

father’s philosophy, they<br />

have made some changes<br />

The gyros ($5.80) with homemade tzatziki sauce and fresh tomatoes — along with a quarter-pound of fried zucchini<br />

($2.60) — are the bread and butter of Nicky’s Gyros in Lockport. Photos by Benjamin Conboy/22nd Century Media<br />

Nicky’s Gyros<br />

903 E. 9th St. in<br />

Lockport<br />

Hours<br />

• 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m.<br />

Monday-Thursday,<br />

Saturday<br />

• 10:30 a.m.-9:30<br />

p.m. Friday<br />

• 11 a.m.-8 p.m.<br />

Sunday<br />

Phone: (815) 838-<br />

0600<br />

over the years to modernize<br />

the restaurant.<br />

When Nicky’s Gyros<br />

was remodeled 15 years<br />

ago, they added a drivethru<br />

and a computerized<br />

ordering system, changing<br />

the ins and outs of the way<br />

the restaurant was traditionally<br />

run by their father.<br />

“The cooks have a<br />

screen where they can see<br />

the orders,” Sophie said.<br />

“Before, we would have<br />

to yell it out. It used to be<br />

all by memory back in the<br />

Sophie Theodossopoulos (left) and her sister Genie Hart run the restaurant, as a<br />

portrait of their father, Nicky, greets customers.<br />

day. You call out 10 orders,<br />

you had to remember<br />

them. Nobody can remember<br />

anything anymore.”<br />

The trio of siblings have<br />

given a lot to the restaurant<br />

over the years, but it<br />

has given something back<br />

to them, too. It has become<br />

a bond for them, a<br />

gathering point for family,<br />

and given them a mutual<br />

purpose. It serves as a reminder<br />

for the principles<br />

their late father stood for.<br />

All these years later,<br />

a portrait of Nicky<br />

still greets customers at<br />

the counter, just like he<br />

did when the restaurant<br />

opened 25 years ago.

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