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26 | March 5, 2020 | the homer horizon dining out<br />
homerhorizondaily.com<br />
The Dish<br />
Family-run gyros restaurant celebrates 25 years in Lockport<br />
Benjamin Conboy<br />
Assistant Editor<br />
One day in 1995, Nicky<br />
Theodossopoulos called<br />
his son Tim’s high school.<br />
He told them the gyros<br />
restaurant he just opened<br />
in Lockport had a line out<br />
the front door. The cops<br />
were there directing traffic,<br />
because there were so<br />
many customers, even at a<br />
time when the surrounding<br />
area was still mostly farmland.<br />
Nicky needed Tim to<br />
leave school and come to<br />
work.<br />
Twenty-five years later,<br />
not much has changed at<br />
Nicky’s Gyros. Though<br />
Nicky died 10 years ago,<br />
the restaurant that is his<br />
namesake lives on with<br />
his three children at the<br />
helm.<br />
Tim and his two sisters,<br />
Sophie Theodossopoulos<br />
and Genie Hart, have<br />
worked at the restaurant<br />
every day since 1995.<br />
Sophie now has two<br />
children of her own who<br />
work there, and it is her<br />
son’s dream to open up his<br />
own gyros shop.<br />
Genie’s husband, Mark,<br />
also helps at the restaurant.<br />
One day, the Harts’ 3-yearold<br />
son — named Nick after<br />
Genie’s father — may<br />
work there, too.<br />
“It’s a real family affair,”<br />
Hart said. “And we’d<br />
like to keep it that way.”<br />
Despite working in close<br />
quarters with their siblings<br />
day in and day out for 25<br />
years, the trio say they<br />
rarely encounter squabbles<br />
as brothers and sisters tend<br />
to do.<br />
“Thank God we don’t<br />
get into it,” Genie said.<br />
“If we have a disagreement,<br />
we try to talk. We<br />
don’t though. If we need<br />
“It’s a real<br />
family affair.<br />
And we’d like<br />
to keep it that<br />
way.”<br />
Genie Hart — coowner<br />
of Nicky’s Gyros<br />
to make a decision, we talk<br />
about it, but we all usually<br />
agree.”<br />
The siblings continue to<br />
use the philosophy of restaurant<br />
stewardship that<br />
their father outlined for<br />
them decades ago.<br />
“He was into quality; he<br />
always believed in quality,”<br />
Sophie said. “We<br />
never changed recipes or<br />
brands.”<br />
Their gyros ($5.80) are<br />
still made with the same<br />
recipe for tzatziki sauce<br />
that the elder Theodossopoulos<br />
crafted. They still<br />
marinate their own chicken<br />
and make the chicken<br />
noodle soup ($3.39) with a<br />
special twist they declined<br />
to disclose to avoid it being<br />
poached by another<br />
restaurant. They still use<br />
the same Grecian Delight<br />
top-quality gyros cones<br />
that were served on opening<br />
day.<br />
“If you look at the ingredients<br />
for our gyros,<br />
there’s no fillers,” Sophie<br />
said. “There’s no bonding.<br />
You can pronounce all of<br />
the words. So, when people<br />
ask why our gyros are<br />
so expensive, it’s because<br />
we [buy the best meat].”<br />
Even though the roots<br />
of Nicky’s Gyros remain<br />
firmly grounded in their<br />
father’s philosophy, they<br />
have made some changes<br />
The gyros ($5.80) with homemade tzatziki sauce and fresh tomatoes — along with a quarter-pound of fried zucchini<br />
($2.60) — are the bread and butter of Nicky’s Gyros in Lockport. Photos by Benjamin Conboy/22nd Century Media<br />
Nicky’s Gyros<br />
903 E. 9th St. in<br />
Lockport<br />
Hours<br />
• 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m.<br />
Monday-Thursday,<br />
Saturday<br />
• 10:30 a.m.-9:30<br />
p.m. Friday<br />
• 11 a.m.-8 p.m.<br />
Sunday<br />
Phone: (815) 838-<br />
0600<br />
over the years to modernize<br />
the restaurant.<br />
When Nicky’s Gyros<br />
was remodeled 15 years<br />
ago, they added a drivethru<br />
and a computerized<br />
ordering system, changing<br />
the ins and outs of the way<br />
the restaurant was traditionally<br />
run by their father.<br />
“The cooks have a<br />
screen where they can see<br />
the orders,” Sophie said.<br />
“Before, we would have<br />
to yell it out. It used to be<br />
all by memory back in the<br />
Sophie Theodossopoulos (left) and her sister Genie Hart run the restaurant, as a<br />
portrait of their father, Nicky, greets customers.<br />
day. You call out 10 orders,<br />
you had to remember<br />
them. Nobody can remember<br />
anything anymore.”<br />
The trio of siblings have<br />
given a lot to the restaurant<br />
over the years, but it<br />
has given something back<br />
to them, too. It has become<br />
a bond for them, a<br />
gathering point for family,<br />
and given them a mutual<br />
purpose. It serves as a reminder<br />
for the principles<br />
their late father stood for.<br />
All these years later,<br />
a portrait of Nicky<br />
still greets customers at<br />
the counter, just like he<br />
did when the restaurant<br />
opened 25 years ago.