Spring 2020 issue Backcountry Journal

Wild & Scenic
It’s not often that you can paddle a pristine river with plenty of
solitude and almost no visible development along the banks yet
easy road access. The Namekagon River in northwest Wisconsin
is one such hidden gem. Since the beginning of human
occupation after the glaciers retreated 10,000 years ago, the river
has been a highway for Native Americans, fur traders, explorers,
loggers and now tourists, fisherman and nature-lovers.
When the Namekagon – and the St. Croix River it flows
into – were threatened by new industries in the 1960s, Sens.
Gaylord Nelson and Walter Mondale stepped in. Through their
hard work, the St. Croix National Scenic Riverway (which
includes the Namekagon River and a protected, quarter-mile
corridor on either riverbank) was created under the National
Wild and Scenic Rivers Act in 1968. The intention of this act
was “to preserve certain rivers with outstanding natural, cultural
and recreational values in – a free-flowing condition for the
enjoyment of present and future generations.”
Today, the National Park Service manages human
engagement on these two rivers by providing rustic campsites,
frequent landings, maps, rangers and education. Stop by the
Namekagon River Visitor Center in Trego, Wisconsin, or visit
www.nps.gov/sacn for more information.
Before long, Tyler found a bungee cord near the fire ring and
started filing down its metal end to make a fishhook. Grant
began whittling a fishing pole from a stick, and Gavin worked to
untangle the rescued fishing line.
Not a single boy pulled out an electronic device or even
mentioned wanting one. Two Frisbees (one of mine and one
found in the weeds on the river) were sailing among the tents.
No one was bored. Everyone was safe. I sat back and let them
be boys in the woods.
Soon the fishing pole was outfitted with a wooden bobber,
baited with a raisin picked out of the gorp and ready for testing.
The whole troupe followed Gavin down to the landing and
watched as he swung the hook and line into the current. Evening
light reflected off the trees, and bugs skittered along the surface.
The onlookers soon dispersed, but Gavin stood quietly – our most
talkative boy – sliding easily into the fisherman’s meditation.
After several minutes without any nibbles, Gavin decided to try
the other canoe landing – a backwater area filled with water lilies
and muck. As he waded in wearing sandals, I heard him mutter,
“I hope I get a leech on my foot so I can use it for bait.” The rest
of us drifted back around the picnic table.
“I’ve got a leech!” came Gavin’s shout, with not a hint of disgust
or fear in his voice.
Nearby, Grant, who had whittled the fishing pole, replied
“Sweet! Now we have bait!” with the same untainted joy.
The boys never caught a fish with their makeshift pole and leech
bait, but I know they caught the spirit of the riverway: adventure,
resourcefulness, stewardship and beauty. Over the next two days
we paddled class I and II rapids, cooked over a campfire started
with flint and steel, learned about the Voyageur history, picked
other people’s trash out of a fire grate, admired bald eagles and
osprey soaring above and paddled 15 miles in a morning.
Around the final campfire, I asked the kids what they wanted in
a trip next year. “More fishing!” came Gavin’s predictable request.
“Can we go longer?” suggested another. I was glad to hear that
they’re hooked on the river.
Emily Stone is the naturalist/education director at the Cable
Natural History Museum and author of “Natural Connections:
Exploring Northwoods Nature through Science and Your Senses.” She
loves introducing kids and adults to wilderness travel.
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