Caravan Magazine

Destination
VENICE CARNIVAL
November
2021
Volume 3
ISSUE 11
JOURNEYING TOGETHER TO BE TOGETHER
CARAVANMAG.COM 1

THE VENICE CARNIVAL ISSUE
98
THE BEST HOTELS
ISSUE 11
VOLUME 3
DEPARTMENTS
13
15
39
48
50
58
120
126
letter from the editor
location
must haves
relax
smart traveler
highest point
mapped
in-focus
J FILIPE WIENS
112
HOW TO DO
VENICE CARNIVAL
FEATURES
80 must see museums
98 the best hotels
112 how to do venice carnival
GARY YEOWELL
80
MUST SEE MUSEUMS
ON THE COVER
Photographed by Marina Dee, capturing
the atmosphere around Venice and the
juxtaposition between the everyday lives of
the locals and the glitzy, glamorous beings
of the festival.
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FOUNDER
Fredrick Jamel Tipton
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Michael Dean
ART DIRECTOR
Holly Tienken
EDITOR IN CHIEF
Thomas Messina
GRAPHIC DESIGNERS
Dedrick Rolison
William Calhoun Jr.
O’Shea Jackson
CONTENT CURATOR
Kenneth Blume
COPY EDITOR
Quincy Hanley
COPY WRITER
Onika Maraj
PHOTOGRAPHER
Otis Jackson Jr.
Caravan Magazine
285 West Broadway, Suite 47
New York, NY 10013
(212) 798 1826
CARAVAN IS PUBLISHED FOUR TIMES A YEAR.
hey@caravanmag.com
@caravnmag
caravanmag.com
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
WE LIVE IN A WONDERFUL
WORLD THAT IS FULL OF
BEAUTY, CHARM AND
ADVENTURE. THERE IS NO END
TO THE ADVENTURES WE CAN
HAVE IF ONLY WE SEEK THEM
WITH OUR EYES OPEN.
THOMAS MESSINA Editor in Chief
CARAVANMAG.COM 9

HOW TO DO
VENICE CARNIVAL
Written
ANNE HANLEY
Photos
OTIS JACKSON
The Venice Carnival is nothing
less than a grand affair, held
annually in the stunning Italian
city we all love. This 2-week-long
festival is about parades, concerts,
markets, and of course the ornate
Venetian masks. This is the time
when the whole city gets into the
festive mood and celebrate like
there is no tomorrow.
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January 23 – February 9, 2022,
Venice will slough off the winter
gloom and burst into life. During
the Carnival, the most magical
of cities fills with a mass of
masked party-goers — posing
and preening, dancing and
philandering, in a slightly surreal
re-invention of a great tradition
of the city.
During the Carnival, this most
magical of cities fills with a mass
of masked party-goers, posing
and preening, dancing and
philandering, in a slightly surreal
re-invention of a great tradition
of the city.
The Volo dell’Angelo (“flight
of the angel’’), when a beauty
pageant winner gets to ride a
zipwire from the campanile in
St Mark’s square, takes place on
January 31. The search for the
year’s best costume is the chance
to strut your finery on the stage
erected in St Mark’s square. A
day’s best and a festival finest
competition run side-by-side,
with twice-a-day heats; the grand
finale for the festival best takes
place on February 9.
Key Carnival events will also take
place inside the Arsenale, Venice’s
magnificent if under-used historic
shipyard. In a half-way-house
between a son e lumière and a
strobe-swept disco, the huge spaces
will play host to water borne
pageants, re-enactments, street
artists and bands. It will also host
events for the the Kids’ Carnival.
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VENICE
If hoi-polloi stick to the campi,
the elite frequent parties, where
start at around €760 per person.
One of the most extravagant is
the Valentine’s Grand Masquerade
Ball — held on February 6 at the
Palazzo Flangini.
St Mark’s Square is the fulcrum
of Carnival activities, and that’s
where you’ll find the most
extraordinary costumes — many
hoping for a chance in the best
costume competition, some
aiming to be photographed, and
others just enjoying themselves.
You’ll find bemasked odalisques
posing in any scenic spot of
which, of course, there’s no
shortage in Venice.
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There’s little point in
experiencing Carnival as a mere
on-looker; without a mask,
at the very least, you’re not
getting the full benefit. Mask
shops out-number butchers
and greengrocers in Venice. To
get the real thing, rather than
a far-eastern import, head for
traditional mascarei such as Ca’
Macanà (Calle delle Botteghe 3172,
Dorsoduro 0039 041 277 6142;
camacana.com), Tragicomica
(Calle dei Nomboli 2800, San Polo,
0039 041 721 102; tragicomica.it) or
Papier Maché (Calle lunga Santa
Maria Formosa 5174B, Castello,
0039 041 522 9995). These artisans
produce some dramatic creations
but Venetians of old favoured the
utmost simplicity: the plain volto.
“VENICE
WAS
NOTHING
LIKE I HAD
IMAGINED.
IT WAS
BETTER.”
BAUTA ARLECCHINO
VOLTO PANTALONE
In the 18th century, it became a
standardized mask for political
decision-making events, to guarantee
anonymity when participating in
ballots. Common in white and gold.
His character is a comic servant,
dressed in clothes of patches and rags
that evolved into the colorful patterns
we associate harlequins with today.
Complete anonymity. Can be plain
white, or covered with colorful
ornaments and feathers. It was so
common during early carnivals that it
was referred to as the “citizen mask”.
An old man whose mask has a a
beaked nose and heavy eyebrows. He
is usually a shopkeeper from the city,
fond of food, miserly, gullible, and the
butt of all the jokes.
The voluminous cloak that
Venetians swept around them
against winter chills is called a
tabarro and can be purchased
from Monica (Calle Scaleter
2235, San Polo, 0039 041 524
6242; monicadaniele.com) who
has single-handedly revived
the garment. Atelier Pietro
Longhi (Ramo secondo Saoner
2671, San Polo, 0039 041 714 478;
pietrolonghi.com) rents and sells
historical costumes, from the
most simple to the very complex
indeed. Banco Lotto N°10 (Salizada
Sant’Antonin 3478B, Castello; 0039
041 522 1439; ilcerchiovenezia.it)
sells beautiful reproductions of
historical costumes made by the
inmates of Venice’s prison.
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APPED OUT IN VENICE
3
5
HOTELS
Hotel Moresco 1
Hotel Palazzo Stern 2
Carnival Palace Hotel 3
Bauer Palazzo 4
Hotel Canal Grande 5
Hotel a La Commedia 6
Corte Di Gabriela 7
Palazzo Venart 8
EAT AND DRINK
Osteria alla Staffa 1
Pasticeria Puppa 2
Antica Adelaide 3
Cantina do Mori 4
Al Timon 5
Paradiso Perduto 6
Al Merca 7
Vino Vero 8
Morion 9
Osteria dal Riccio Peoco 10
Jazz Club Novecento 900 11
Fiumefreddo 12
Pizzeria la Perla 13
Trattoria da Gigio 14
Antica Osteria Ardenghi 15
Trattoria da Jonny 16
Pub Angio Wine Bar 17
Gelateria Nico 18
Antico Gatoleto 19
Majer 20
Arcicchetti Bakaro 21
CHURCHES
1 Basilica di San Marco
2 Scuola Grande di San Rocco
3 Basilica di Santa Maria
4 San Giorgio Maggiore
5 Church of San Pantalon
6 Chiesa di San Vidal
7 Santa Maria dei Miracoli
8 Chiesa di San Zaccaria
MUSEUMS
1 Doge’s Palace
2 La Bottega dei Mascareri
3 Peggy Guggenheim Collection
4 Ca’ Rezzonico
5 Casa dei Tre Oci
6 Museo di Palazzo Grimani
7 Palazzo Mocenigo
8 Gallerie dell’Accademia
MAJOR AREAS
1 Piazza San Marco
2 Dorsoduro
3 Campanile di San Marco
4 Torre dell’Orologio
5 Canal Grande
6 Peggy Guggenheim Collection
7 Cannaregio
8 Ponte di Rialto
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CARAVANMAG.COM 21

N-FOCUS
your best shot
Kelly Smith was an entrant in our monthly photo contest.
Submit your best shots at caravanmag.com/in-focus for
the chance to be featured on this page in a future issue.
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