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The
Saree
A Brief Guide
to Wearing, Caring
and Storing the
Unstitched Cloth
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The
Saree
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The
Saree
History, Function & Usage
A Saree or sari is the traditional female
garment in Bangladesh, India, Nepal, and
Sri Lanka. The term “sari” is derived from
a Sanskrit word meaning “strip of cloth”.
The history of Indian clothing traces the
sari back to the Indus valley civilization
which flourished from 2800–1800 BCE.
Because of the harsh extremes in temperature
on the Indian Subcontinent, the sari
fills a practical role. It could be warming
in winter and cooling in summer. A variety
of fabrics are available for each season.
Sarees are used as airhostess’s uniforms for
many South Asian Airlines and are considered
appropriate for formal wear.
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MAKING SENSE OF A SAREE
It is a very long strip of unstitched cloth, ranging
from 4 to 9 meters in length, which can be draped
in various styles. The three parts of the saree guide
us in draping it with less confusion.
Thin Border of the saree
wraps around the waist.
Wide Border of the saree
falls at the feet.
Pallu, the decorative
edge goes over
the shoulder.
Pleats, folds made with
the saree, and tucked in
at the waist.
DRAPE
The saree is worn in
different ways by different
communities in various
regions of South Asia.
There are about a little
Interesting fact:
In Natya Shastra,
an ancient
Indian treatise,
the navel of the
Supreme Being
is considered to
be the source of
life and creativity,
hence the midriff
is to be left bare by
the sari. Women in
present day India
cover as much
as they can to
deter molesters in
crowded places.
over a hundred recorded drapes of the saree across
the length and breadth of South Asia. Wikipedia lists
about 14. Nowadays we mostly see the Nivi drape –
the contemporary drape with the pallu on the side
and the pleats at the centre.
THINGS YOU NEED TO WEAR A SAREE
Decide on a drape. It will dictate the kind of blouse
and underskirt that will go with the saree.
• Underskirt or ankle pants
• Blouse (optional)
• Safety Pins 4-5
The Saree: History, Function & Usage
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How to Wear a
Nivi Drape
ORIGIN OF
THE DRAPE
This drape is the most
widely recognized style
worn across the globe.
While there are no
concrete accounts on
the coining of the term,
the style of draping itself
was originally a part of
the culture of the state
of Andhra Pradesh. It is
also credited to Gyanodanandini
Tagore who
increased the sari’s length
in the 1860s.
SUGGESTED USE
Almost an material can
be used for this drape.
Pinning the pleats with a
safety pin will keep them
in place when moving
about. The drape on the
shoulder can be pleated
for a formal look.
Origin: West Bengal
Length: 6 yards
Material: Any Material
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HOW-TO
Step 1 With inner end in
front, drape outer end of
sari around waist. Tie edge
of inner end with outer
end twice at front right
waist, tucking edges in.
Step 2 Leaving a one hand
gap of outer end, hold right
side with thumb, ring and
little finger, left side with
index and middle finger
to make a pleat.
Step 3 Make 6-8 pleats, using fingers to hold
each side firm and in place. Tuck in at center
front waist.
Step 4 Bring remaining outer end anticlockwise
and drape front to back over left shoulder. Adjust
pleats accordingly.
Interesting fact:
This style was popularized in Indian culture
through Raja Ravi Varma’s paintings, the most
famous of which depicts the Indian sub-continent
as a mother wearing a flowing saree in
the nivi drape.
A Guide to Wearing a Nivi Drape
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How to Wear a
Yakshagana
Parvati
Kase Drape
ORIGIN OF
THE DRAPE
This drape is worn by
female characters of the
Yakshagana Theatre of
southern and coastal
Karnataka, a southern
state of India.
SUGGESTED USE
Using a light weight saree
made of materials like
chiffon or georgette will
add a swish to this drape
and allow the folds to
cascade elegantly around
the body.
Origin: Karnataka
Length: 9 yards
Material: Chiffon
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HOW-TO
Step 1 With inner end in
front, drape outer end of
sari around waist. Tie edge
of inner end with outer
end twice at front right
waist, tucking edges in.
Step 2 Leaving a one hand
gap of outer end, hold right
side with thumb, ring and
little finger, left side with
index and middle finger
to make a pleat.
Step 3 Make 6 -8 pleats, using fingers to hold
each side firm and in place. Tuck in at waist.
Hold the drape a foot or two from the pleats.
Step 4 With the other hand, drape outer end
across chest. Bring front to back over the left
shoulder and knot edge with back of drape.
Interesting fact:
In the state of Karnataka alone, there are more
than 9 varieties of documented drapes showcasing
the versatility of the garment and the resourcefulness
of the user to adapt it to changing needs.
A Guide to Wearing a Yakshagana Parvati Kase Drape
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Fabrics
of Sarees
Sarees for All Seasons
SUMMER
Jute
Cotton
WINTER
Kanchi Silk
Crepe Silk
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In ancient times, sarees were handwoven
and made of cotton or silk. Even though
technological advancement has made it
easier to manufacture sarees with fabrics
like nylon, polyesters and rayons, sarees
handwoven on a loom have made a resurgence
in the last decade. Handloom sarees
are recommended for purchase as they
carry the craft and tradition of generations
of weaver families, and last longer.
MONSOON
Chiffon
Georgette
AUTUMN
Chanderi
Muga Silk
Fabrics of Sarees
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Upkeep
of Sarees
Cleaning and Storage
With proper care and attention, sarees
can be preserved for ages and passed
on to generations without losing its
lustre or freshness. A saree should be
either delicately hand washed or dry
cleaned. Some fabric types can be machine
washed and dried.
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COTTON
Cleaning Wash in high
temperatures. Color safe
bleach is recommended
on dyed cottons.
Ironing Cotton sarees
can be ironed with a hot
iron, as they do not
scorch easily.
Storage Do not keep dark
cotton sarees with the
lighter ones. In case of residue
moisture, the colour
imprint could play havoc.
LINEN
Cleaning Before washing,
soak the saree for 10-15
minutes in water added
with rock salt to lock the
hues in, which will prevent
any fading of colors.
Ironing Damp linen clothing
to prevent the iron
from burning or yellowing
the fabric.
Storage Keep your saree
lightly folded. Store it
on a wooden hanger in
a way so that it is not
squeezed or pressed down.

CHIFFON
Be all the more careful
with ‘light as air’ chiffons
and the ‘drape likedream’
georgettes as they are
woven very lightly. Tears
are common due to over
usage of pins or hanging
them for too long.
Cleaning Do not wring after
hand washing or stretch
the fabric while drying.
Ironing Set the iron to a
low or cool setting and lay
a towel over the chiffon
saree before ironing.
Storage Never store chiffons
with heavier silks as
the weight of the heavier
saree could be damaging.
SILK
Cleaning Hand wash
initially without detergent.
After 3-4 plain water
washes, use mild detegent
to wash the saree. Do not
keep the sari soaked in the
detergent for long.
Ironing It is recommended
that silk sarees be ironed
between two pieces of
white cloth. Do not wet the
saree prior to ironing or
to use a steam iron.
Storage Always remove
any plastic cover on the saree
as that leads to border
and fabric discoloration.
Interesting fact:
Each dhobi (washerman), at Dhobi Ghat,
an open air laundry built during the British Raj
in Mumbai, washes at least 400 sarees a day.
Upkeep of Sarees: Cleaning & Storage
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COLOPHON
The text in this book
is set in 9.5/12.5 Sabon,
and titles in 39/36
Klavika. Designed by
Venu Sri Sabbavarapu
in Providence, RI, as part
of the Book Design
Summer Studies class
at Rhode Island School
of Design, July, 2018.
Instructor: Douglas Scott
Teaching Assistant: Anne Hilary Dupont
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