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VALLEY OF TIME

A special-edition NOMOS Ludwig celebrates 175 years of Glashütte watchmaking.

Words Stephen Watson

What does it take for an

industry to flourish?

Infrastructure and capital,

certainly, but don’t discount the value

of local resources. In eastern Germany,

in a valley where the rivers Müglitz

and Priessnitz merge, the unique

geography and resident ingenuity

of Glashütte has provided the right

elements for watchmaking to thrive for

more than 175 years. Traditions have

been revered and upheld, fostering

a unique environment, creating

something singular: a town of less than

10,000 that’s home to nearly a dozen

makers of mechanical fine watches.

To celebrate this fascinating

anniversary, one of those watchmakers,

NOMOS Glashütte, is paying tribute

with a limited-edition series of

its classic model, the Ludwig.

So it goes without saying that

NOMOS takes immense pride in its

Saxon heritage. Inside, the brand’s

movements are decorated in the

Glashütte tradition, and assembled with

a level of care befitting the town’s legacy.

But NOMOS isn’t afraid to mix those

longstanding German watchmaking

codes with updated (and award-winning)

contemporary styling. And it’s with these

cool, Bauhaus-inspired designs — like

those of the Ludwig — where NOMOS

differentiates itself from its neighbors.

For this new Ludwig Glashütte

limited edition, though, NOMOS has

taken a surprising turn. Instead of

its usual sophisticated modernism,

the brand has borrowed motifs from

vintage pocket watches, incorporating

old-school elements into the Ludwig’s

super-clean lines. The result is a

series of timepieces that appear

more refined, at least by traditional

NOMOS GLASHÜTTE

LUDWIG NEOMATIK 39 – 175 YEARS OF

WATCHMAKING GLASHÜTTE

MOVEMENT Self-winding chronometer-standard

caliber DUW 3001; hours and minutes; subsidiary

seconds; 43-hour power reserve

CASE 38.5mm; stainless steel; water-resistant to 50m

STRAP Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan

black leather

PRICE USD 3,800

hand-wound model; all three pieces

are engraved with “Limited Edition

Ludwig – 175 Years Watchmaking

Glashütte” on the caseback. And,

as a special feature, all three models

are also regulated chronometers.

Callbacks to vintage German pocket

watches abound, but do not overwhelm.

Distinctive Roman numerals combine

with simple indexes to denote the hours,

alongside railroad minute markers

to enhance the readability. Roman

numerals appear in the date window of

the Ludwig neomatik 41 Date, standing in

for the usual Arabic numerals, a first for

the NOMOS brand. Leaf-shaped hands

replace the typical straight indicators and

are blued, nodding to a local Glashütte

detail. (While the lacquer dial is referred

to as “enamel-white,” this remarks on

the crisp white color of the dial, rather

than the technique of manufacturing.)

These cues are an unexpected twist

for NOMOS, which was founded in

1990, making it a relative youngster

compared to some of its Glashütte

siblings. But it speaks to the mentality

of the brand as a whole: Proud of its

remarkable achievements, yet humbled

by each success, and ultimately

aware that it’s one part of a larger

watchmaking tradition. A high tide raises

all boats, and by acknowledging the

accomplishments of the entire Glashütte

region, NOMOS finds its stepping

one foot closer to the spotlight.

NOMOS GLASHÜTTE

LUDWIG NEOMATIK 41 DATE –

175 YEARS OF WATCHMAKING

GLASHÜTTE

MOVEMENT Self-winding

chronometer-standard caliber

DUW 6101; hours and minutes;

subsidiary seconds; date;

42-hour power reserve

CASE 40.5mm; stainless steel;

water-resistant to 50m

STRAP Horween Genuine Shell

Cordovan black leather

PRICE USD 4,200

standards, adapted seamlessly to the

forward-looking NOMOS aesthetic.

Each of these special watches

reimagines the Ludwig in very subtle

ways, each elevating its smart details

with careful thought and nuance. There

are three models in total, and all of them

feature in-house crafted movements.

The flagship piece, called Ludwig – 175

Years Watchmaking Glashütte, uses

the acclaimed NOMOS Alpha handwound

caliber. Meanwhile, the other

two versions, the Ludwig neomatik 39

and the Ludwig neomatik 41 Date, are

offered with automatic movements.

Power reserve is 43 hours for the former

watch, and 42 hours for the latter. Water

resistance is rated at 50 meters for the

automatic models and 30 meters for the

NOMOS GLASHÜTTE

LUDWIG – 175 YEARS OF WATCHMAKING GLASHÜTTE

MOVEMENT Manual-winding chronometer-standard Alpha caliber; hours and minutes;

subsidiary seconds; 43-hour power reserve

CASE 35mm; stainless steel; water-resistant to 30m

STRAP Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black leather

PRICE USD 2,260

28 PRIME TIME

PRIME TIME 29

28-29 USA Prime Time - NOMOS D.indd 28 15/8/20 3:32 AM

RM57539_Issue103_028

075833 Mon, Aug 17, 2020

28-29 USA Prime Time - NOMOS D.indd 29 15/8/20 2:29 AM

RM57539_Issue103_029

075834 Mon, Aug 17, 2020

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