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IN TIME: BEST OF 2020
USA 56 SUPPLEMENT
NOT FOR SEPERATE SALE
CELEBRATING 70
YEARSOFTHE
PANERAI LUMINOR
AUDEMARS PIGUET
RETURNS TO
CODE 11.59
BULGARI’S BOLD
NEW WORLD
IN TIME: BEST OF 2020
THE
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL
SENATOR CHRONOMETER
TOURBILLON – LIMITED EDITION
Precision Reimagined
2020-08-20 8:20 AM
www.grand-seiko.com/us-en
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T H E A R T O F F U S I O N
BIG BANG TOURBILLON
Sapphire case. In-house skeleton
tourbillon movement with a 5-day
power reserve. Limited to 99 pieces.
BOUTIQUES
FIFTH AVENUE • BEVERLY HILLS
BAL HARBOUR • MIAMI
LAS VEGAS • PALM BEACH
DALLAS • ORLANDO • HOUSTON
SAN FRANCISCO • SCOTTSDALE
Tel: +1 (646) 582 9813
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46
GLASHÜTTE
Original Senator
Chronometer
Tourbillon Limited
Edition — Precision
Reimagined
10 Accutron
11 Alpina
12 Audemars Piguet
14 Bell & Ross
16 Wei Koh’s Top Five Picks
22 Blancpain
24 Breguet
26 Breitling
27 Bulova
28 Bvlgari
30 Cartier
32 Casio
33 Chanel
34 Chopard
36 Citizen
37 Chronoswiss
38 Corum
39 De Bethune
40 Dior
42 Ferdinand Berthoud
43 Franck Muller
44 Frederique Constant
45 Girard-Perregaux
54 2020: The Color of Time
56 Grand Seiko
58 Greubel Forsey
60 Gucci
62 H. Moser & Cie
63 Hamilton
64 Harry Winston
65 Hermès
66 HYT
67 Hublot
68 IWC
70 Jacob & Co
71 Jaeger-LeCoultre
73 Jaquet Droz
74 Laurent Ferrier
75 Le Rhöne
76 Watches of Switzerland:
Multiple Choice
78 Longines
80 Louis Monet
81 MB&F
82 Montblanc
83 Nomos Glashütte
84 Omega
86 Oris
87 Parmigiani Fleurier
88 Panerai
90 Patek Philippe
92 Piaget
93 Rado
94 Hunting for Best Values
96 Reservoir
97 Richard Mille
98 Roger Dubuis
100 Rolex
101 Seiko
102 Tudor
104 TAG Heuer
106 Ulysse Nardin
108 URWERK
109 Vacheron Constantin
110 Van Cleef & Arpels
111 Zenith
112 Zodiac
The Watchfinder x Revolution collaboration was initiated to educate,
uplift and entertain while curating the best selection of our favourite timepieces
that we happen to know are the right choices and the coolest watches.
Some might be well known and others more obscure, but once you read
about the watches, you’ll understand what makes each and every one, great.
Revolution.Watch will then present you with the option to purchase these
pre-owned watches at great prices, reflecting their market value and, most
importantly, with the absolute guarantee of their perfect function and
authenticity, backed by a 14-day return policy and a full 12-month Watchfinder
& Co. warranty, alongside any pre-existing manufacturer’s warranty.
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EDITORIAL
FOUNDER & EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Wei Koh @wei_koh_revolution
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Adam Craniotes
MANAGEMENT
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
Walter Tommasino walter@revolutionmagazines.com
LINE
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Stephen Watson stephen@revolutionmagazines.com
GLOBAL CONTENT COORDINATOR
Stephanie Ip stephanie@revolutionmagazines.com
EDITOR, REVOLUTION ONLINE
Sumit Nag sumit@revolutionmagazines.com
HEAD, SPECIAL PROJECTS & MANAGING EDITOR, ONLINE
Kevin Cureau kevin@revolutionmagazines.com
SUB-EDITORS
Catherine Koh & Eileen Sim
LIFESTYLE EDITOR
Yong Wei Jian weijian@revolutionmagazines.com
EDITORIAL COORDINATOR
Punam Nikki Rai nikki@revolutionmagazines.com
CONTRIBUTORS
Atom Moore
Orland Punzalan
MANAGING DIRECTOR
Maria Lim maria@revolutionmagazines.com
SENIOR PUBLISHER
Nathalie Naintre nathalie@revolutionmagazines.com
INTERNATIONAL TRAFFIC COORDINATOR
Christina Koh christina@revolutionmagazines.com
HUMAN RESOURCE MANAGER
Yvonne Koh yvonne@revolutionmagazines.com
FINANCE MANAGER
Jay Wong jaywong@revolutionmagazines.com
ACCOUNTANT
Sandy Tan finance@revolutionmagazines.com
INTERNATIONAL EDITIONS
ASIA Wei Koh
AUSTRALIA Felix Scholz
CHINA Taitan Chen
HONG KONG Stephanie Ip
ITALY Maurizio Favot
MEXICO Israel Ortega
LATIN AMERICA Israel Ortega
RUSSIA DenisPeshkov
UAE JolaChudy
UK RossPovey
VISUAL
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Darius Lee darius@revolutionmagazines.com
PHOTOGRAPHER-AT-LARGE
Munster munster@revolutionmagazines.com
DIGITAL IMAGING ARTIST
KH Koh
PHOTOGRAPHER
Toh Si Jia
VIDEOGRAPHER
Don Torres
ON THE COVER
Glashütte Original
Senator Chronometer Tourbillon — Limited Edition
with flying tourbillon with a stop-second
mechanism, zero reset, and minute detent
Photography Atom Moore, Munster, Toh Si Jia
Styling by Revolution
SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE
Low Sze Wei szewei@revolutionmagazines.com
REVHLUTION is published quarterly by
Revolution Media Pte Ltd.
All rights reserved. © 2020 by Revolution Media
Pte Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without
permission is prohibited.
Opinions expressed in REVHLUTION are solely
those of the writers and are not necessarily endorsed
by the publisher and its editors.
Editorial enquiries should be directed to the Editor.
While every reasonable care will be undertaken by
the Editor, unsolicited materials will not be returned
unless accompanied by a self-addressed envelope
and sufficient return postage.
For other enquiries, contact:
info@revolutionmagazines.com
For circulation and distribution, contact:
circulation@revolutionmagazines.com
PPS 1609/06/2013 (025530) MCI (P) 037/12/2018 ISSN 1793-463x
USA circulation, marketing and operations: Frank Ruiz and Carlos
Garcia, CircSense Marketing & Publishing Solutions
REVHLUTION USA Pte Ltd South Miami FL 33143 USA, Tel: 305 608
1460. REVOLUTION (ISSN # 1793-463x) Fall 2020, USA issue 103.
REVOLUTION is published quarterly by Revolution Media Private
Limited, The Mill, 5 Jalan Kilang #04-01 Singapore 159405. Agent for
this publication is CircSense Publishing Solutions, LLC, 16245 SW 81st
Terr., Miami, FL 33193. Periodicals postage paid at Miami, FL and at
additional mailing offices. SUBSCRIPTION PRICES: US$79.95 per year
in the US; US$74.95 per year in Canada.
THE MODERN VOICE OF CLASSIC ELEGANCE
Read, shop, subscribe.
TheRake.com
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A Lange & Söhne
EDITOR’S
NOTE
t’s been one hell of a year.
Daily life, for all its beauty and mundanity,
has become a lesson about the curse of living in
interesting times. And as we all continue settling into
our new routines and our new realities — our new
world, really — Revolution is continuing to reflect. One question
that keeps popping up: How can we be more sensitive while
discussing expensive watches, especially when most of them
remain a pipe dream for all but a few lucky readers?
These types of conversations take me back to being a junior
editor, when I worked for a high-end fashion magazine with
a gigantic circulation. We’d often get letters from readers
containing some form of the following critique: “I look at your
pages and nobody can afford the clothing, or even fit into it.
Nobody gets to live like that.”
Fair enough. Our reply was always the same. We were
providing entertainment, a bit of escapist magic, through the
work of designers and artisans, as filtered through the lens of our
point of view. We were, essentially, offering more reasons
to dream.
The best magazines, I think, always suspend reality to a
certain degree. They fuel the imagination. They can bring a
little hope.
Are those feelings worth any less if you can’t actually hang
them in your closet? Or wear them on your wrist? I would argue
not. At my last Baselworld appointment with Patek Philippe, I
had a moment of clarity where I realized I would never be able
to afford one. Not even what would be considered entry-level.
It hasn’t stopped me from marveling at everything the company
creates, from the ultra-desirable Nautilus to the latest Grand
Complications. I continue to be amazed at auction prices,
dazzled by each new record-breaker, knowing I will never sit in
that room waiting to bid. It only drives my fascination further. I
remember that I am still allowed to dream.
That means something, especially right now. Yes, the
trade fairs were canceled this year, as were the face-to-face
appointments with brands. Sure, there were fewer new watches
debuted than in the past. But working on this Best of 2020 issue
offered both respite and reverie. Hopefully, reading it does the
same thing for you. As the great fashion editor Diana Vreeland
used to say: “There’s only one thing in life, and that’s the
continual renewal of inspiration.”
In that spirit, we’ve included a remarkable diversity of pieces
among our featured collections. On the following pages, you’ll
find something for all tastes, from outer-space Accutron cool to
deep-sea Zodiac swagger. As ever, the insight from our editors
and contributors is incisive and affecting. And whatever 2020’s
class of new watches lacks in quantity, it makes up for twice over
in quality. (Seriously. The designs are stronger than ever.)
Maybe you own one of them already. Maybe you will
someday. Maybe not. But I find that viewing things through
that lens can be limiting. Nothing — even the curse of such
interesting times — can stop me from appreciating creativity in
all its forms, getting lost in all the possibilities, harboring hopes
about the future, suspending reality for a moment to dream, or
feeling lucky every day that I have the opportunity to do so.
Stephen Watson, Editor-in-Chief
stephen@revolutionmagazines.com
Just in case you were still on the fence about the Lange 1,
one of the true icons of modern watchmaking, our friends
at Glashütte have, once again, developed a new version
of the watch — yet another reason to surrender yourself to the
enchantment and prodigious techniques that set this and every
other Lange apart. The name of the new Lange 1 Time Zone
eloquently tells us what its mission is: to show, simultaneously,
the time in different parts of the world, in addition to the
reference time (usually that of home). Among the changes that
show its evolution, the new watch adds a setting for regions
and incorporates the daylight-savings-time exemptions. On
the asymmetrical dial, the Lange 1 Time Zone watch offers two
subdials to display the time — usually the home time at
nine o’clock and the reference time at five o’clock — as well
as a big date and a classic Up-Down winding indicator. The
rotatable cities ring allows for a convenient adjustment of the
second time zone, while the crown adjusts the time for both time
zones simultaneously. Finally, subtle day-and-night indicators
were added to the two subdials by means of a clever system of
rotating discs.
Now, let’s turn our attention to the Odysseus, Lange’s first
official incursion into the sports watch category. Launched at the
end of 2019 in a steel version with a blue dial and a rubber strap,
LANGE 1 TIME ZONE
Ref:136.032, 136,029 and 136.021
Movement: Manual-winding L141.1,
off-center hours, minutes, small seconds;
second time zone; daylight-time indication;
big date; 72-hour power reserve
Case: Rose, white or yellow gold, 41.9
mm, water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: USD52,900 (rose and white gold
versions)
USD56,100 (yellow gold, 200-pc LE)
ODYSSEUS WHITE GOLD
Ref: 363.038
Movement: Manual-winding L155.1,
hours, minutes; small seconds; oversized
day and date; 72-hour power reserve
Case: White gold, 40.5 mm, waterresistant
to 120m
Strap: Calf leather or rubber
Price: USD40,600
the collection has now been expanded: the second reference
in the series now combines a 40.5mm white-gold case with a
slate-grey dial. The readability of the watch accompanies its
perfect aesthetics, with the numerals on the big date and the
letters on the day-of-the-week display standing out in white.
The push-pieces for correcting the date and day of the week
(located above and below the crown) give the white-gold case
(composed of three parts) its striking shape, integrated with
the rest of the case. The integrated strap is available in either
hand-sewn leather or black rubber. There are no changes to the
L155.1 Datomatic movement, of course. The automatic winding
mechanism has a platinum oscillating mass to give the watch its
maximum reserve of 50 hours.
It’s quite amazing that a new minute repeater, exceptional
as it is, is just another one of the novelties Lange has for us this
year. Brief backstory: in 2015, Lange debuted the first reference
of the minute repeater in the Zeitwerk. At that time, it became the
only watch in the world to combine a mechanical digital display
of the hours and minutes with a decimal minute repeater. This
complicated watch, into which several months are invested for
assembly, was only available exclusively in platinum, but now, five
years after its introduction, you can get your hands on a whitegold
edition with a dark-blue dial, limited to 30 pieces.
ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER GOLD
Reference Number: 147.128
Movement: Mechanical hand-wound,
L043.5, digital jumping hours, minutes;
small seconds; decimal minute repeater;
36-hour power reserve
Case: White gold, 44.2 mm, waterresistant
to 30m
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: On request, boutique-only limited
edition of 30 pieces
IN TIME 9
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Accutron
Alpina
Launched during the ’60s era, the Accutron was
the world’s first fully electronic watch. Now with
improved technology and a new look, Bulova’s
Accutron is back for 2020, ready to captivate a new
generation with electrostatic energy. Instead of the
usual balance wheel, the original timekeeping function
acquired its power from a 360Hz tuning fork powered
by a one-transistor electronic oscillator, replacing the
ordinary tick-tock with humming emanating from the
innovative tuning-fork technology. The original models
with visible inner workings were salesman samples
created to show off the new technology; consumers
immediately took to the space-age look that still looks
modern today. The open-dial models have become fierce
collector’s items, and the launch of Accutron’s Spaceview
and Legacy collections will only fuel collectors’ desire
— a happy return of a much-beloved and influential
collection.
TIMELINE
1875: Joseph Bulova officially forms his own watch
company
1919: Bulova introduces its first line of jewelled men’s
timepieces
1924: Bulova debuts its first full collection of jewelled
wristwatches for women
1941: Bulova changes the spirit of marketing with America’s
first radio and TV commercials
1945: The Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking is
founded to provide veterans with training after the Second
World War
1960: Bulova’s Accutron debuts
1969: A Bulova timer gets placed in the Sea of Tranquility
during the first moonwalk
2008: Citizen acquires the Bulova Watch Company
2016: Bulova introduces the first curved chronograph
movement
In 1883, Gottlieb Hauser founded Alpina in Geneva. Besides
the fledgling watch brand, he also founded the Union
Horlogère Suisse (the Swiss Watchmakers Corporation),
with the intention of uniting the various industry players in joint
purchases and to establish a network of distributors around the
world. Twenty-five years later, Alpina was a registered name,
along with the red triangle emblem and a commitment to
quality watchmaking.
As you might expect from a brand named for snowy and
inhospitable alpine peaks, Alpina is known primarily for its
reliable professional sports watches. This isn’t a new direction
for a brand that, way back in 1938, had laid down the principles
of the Alpina 4 watch, a set of guidelines that broadly define a
modern sport watch. These guidelines dictated that such a watch
should have the characteristics of anti-magnetism, anti-shock,
water-resistance and be made from stainless steel. And while
these traits are seemingly unremarkable in 2020, back in 1938,
these were some pretty cutting-edge characteristics.
Throughout the subsequent decades, Alpina has continued
this mission, making rugged and reliable watches, from the
Seastrong 10 Diver through to bold, sporty chronographs in
cushion cases. But the tidal wave of the quartz revolution that
devastated the traditional Swiss watch industry meant that
Alpina’s star was somewhat waning. That is, until 2002, when
the brand got its second wind under new owners. By 2006,
Alpina was back in Geneva and producing no-nonsense tool
watches that lived up to the spirit of the brand and, more
importantly, the Alpina 4 principles.
Today, the Alpina collection is primarily divided into the
realms of sea, land and sky, under the Seastrong, Alpiner and
Startimer collections. There is another interesting addition in
Alpina’s lineup: the Horological Smartwatch, first released in
2015, which shows that the brand’s commitment to cutting-edge
sport watches has kept up with the times.
REFERENCE NUMBER: 261
Movement: Accutron Swiss-made
26-jewel movement
Function Hours, minutes and seconds
Case: Silver or gold-tone stainless-steel
case; 38.5mm
Strap: Black leather strap with doublepress
deployant closure or three-link
bracelet with double-press deployant
closure
Price: USD1,390 / USD1,550; 600-piece
limited edition
ELECTROSTATIC ENERGY
COLLECTION
Reference Number: Spaceview 2020
Movement: Accutron electrostatic
energy movement
Function Hours, minutes and seconds
Case: Stainless-steel case
Strap: Fine black leather strap
Price: USD3,450
REFERENCE NUMBER: DAY AND DATE
“Q”
Movement: Accutron Swiss-made
26-jewel movement
Function Hours, minutes and seconds
Case: Silver or gold-tone stainless-steel
case; 34.5mm
Strap: White-accent stitched dark-blue
leathergrain strap
Price: USD1,390; 600-piece limited
edition
ALPINA SEASTRONG DIVER GYRE
Movement: Calibre AL-525; automatic;
hours, minutes and seconds; date
Case: Two-part case made with recycled
PA 6 and fiberglass; unidirectional
stainless-steel bezel in black PVD; 44mm
diameter, 12.15mm thick; water resistant
to 300m.
Strap: Two-tone blue NATO strap made
from RPET (recycled plastic bottles)
Price: USD1,595, limited to 1,883 pieces
ALPINER QUARTZ GMT
Movement: AL-247 quartz calibre; hours,
minutes and seconds; date; GMT.
Case: Stainless steel; 42mm; water
resistant to 100m.
Band: Stainless steel
Price: USD970 (strap) or USD1,080
(bracelet)
ALPINAX ALIVE
Movement: Calibre MMT-283-1; more
than two years of battery life; hours,
minutes and seconds; date; numerous
connected functions.
Case: Fibreglass and stainless steel;
45mm; sapphire crystal; water resistant
to 100m
Strap: Rubber
Price: USD795 and up
10 IN TIME
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Audemars Piguet
Everyone knows the story of the Royal Oak — how it was born in 1972 in the
hands of Gérald Genta; a steel sports watch that commanded prices way
above precious gold and garnered criticism initially before things took a
turn and, in the following decades, grew in popularity. Today, the ref. 15202, the
continuation of the first ref. 5402, has become a grail watch for many collectors.
But AP is more than just the Royal Oak — a point the brand has in recent months
revisited with the launch of a book on its complicated wristwatches, the opening
of its museum, and the release of the Code 11.59, a collection that AP hopes very
much will become the younger sibling to the distinctive Royal Oak.
Audemars Piguet was established in 1875 in Le Brassus in the heart of
the Vallée-de-Joux by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward August Piguet,
and was one of the very first manufactures to gain the expertise in making
complications (the other was Patek Philippe). By 1915, it had set the world
record for the smallest five-minute repeater movement, a record it still holds
today. In 1992, Audemars Piguet acquired a stake in Renaud et Papi, who
began to help the company build many of its high complications, including the
ones found in the subsequent Royal Oak Concept line.
Currently under the helm of François-Henry Bennahmias and still familyowned,
Audemars Piguet has proved that it is unmatched in the market when
it comes to ultramodern and cutting-edge complicated timepieces. The Royal
Oak RD#2, the Perpetual Calendar Openworked in black ceramic, and yes,
even the Code 11.59, prove that the brand is as bold and audacious as ever. Its
motto says it all: “To break the rules, you must first master them.”
TIMELINE
1875: Company established by Jules
Audemars and Edward Piguet
1899: AP creates its first ‘Grande
Complication’ pocket watch
1915: Sets world record for smallest fiveminute
repeater movement
1955: Presents the first wristwatch
equipped with a perpetual calendar
(calibre VZSSQP)
1972: Gérald Genta designs the Royal
Oak for AP, the first high-end steel sports
watch
1986: Another world’s-first: the ultrathin
self-winding tourbillon wristwatch
(calibre 2870)
1992: The Royal Oak Offshore is born
2000: The Tradition d’Excellence
collection, showcasing both traditional
and innovative complications, is born
2002: The Royal Oak Concept is
launched in time for the Royal Oak’s 30th
anniversary
2009: Manufacture des Forges opens in
Le Brassus
2015: Releases its first pure concept
watch, the Royal Oak Concept RD#1
Acoustic Research
2018: The launch of RD#2, the world’s
thinnest automatic perpetual calendar in
the world
2019: The Code 11.59 by Audemars
Piguet collection is launched
2020: The Audemars Piguet Museum
opens, and the [Re]Master01
Chronograph is born
[RE]MASTER01 SELF-WINDING
FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH
Movement: Self-winding 4409; hours,
minutes and seconds; chronograph; 70-
hour power reserve
Case and dial: Stainless steel and pink
gold with a yellow-gold-toned dial;
40mm; water resistant to 20m
Strap: Light-brown calfskin and darkbrown
alligator
Price: USD53,100; 500-piece limited
edition
ROYAL OAK 34MM
Movement: Self-winding 5800; hours,
minutes and seconds; date; 50-hour
power reserve
Case and dial: Stainless steel; 34mm
diameter; 8.8mm thickness; white petite
tapisserie dial; water resistant to 50m
Strap: Matching bracelet with AP folding
clasp
Price: USD18,300
CODE 11.59 BY AUDEMARS PIGUET
SELFWINDING 41MM
Movement: Self-winding 4302; hours,
minutes and seconds; date; 70-hour
power reserve
Case and dial: 18K pink-gold casemiddle
with 18K white-gold bezel;
41mm; smoked grey lacquered dial;
water resistant to 30m
Strap: Black alligator leather with 18K
white-gold pin buckle
Price: USD26,800
ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE SELFWINDING
CHRONOGRAPH
Movement: Self-winding 3126/3840;
hours and minutes; small seconds; date;
chronograph; 50-hour power reserve
Case and dial: Black ceramic with blue
ceramic bezel; 44mm diameter; 14.4mm
thickness; smoked blue dial; water
resistant to 100m
Strap: Blue rubber with ‘textile
decoration’, titanium pin buckle
Price: USD34,900
CODE 11.59 BY AUDEMARS PIGUET
SELFWINDING CHRONOGRAPH 41MM
Movement: Self-winding 4401; hours,
minutes and seconds; date; flyback
chronograph; 70-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 18K white-gold case with
smoked burgundy lacquered dial; 41mm;
water resistant to 30m
Strap: Burgundy alligator leather with
18K white-gold pin buckle
Price: USD42,400
ROYAL OAK CONCEPT FROSTED GOLD
FLYING TOURBILLON
Movement: Manual-winding 2964; hours
and minutes; flying tourbillon; 72-hour
power reserve
Case and dial: Hammered 18K pink-gold
case; 38.5mm; multi-layered gradated
blue dial; water resistant to 20m
Strap: Blue alligator leather with AP
folding clasp and additional shiny blue
textured rubber strap
Price: On request
12 IN TIME
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Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross was born out of the vivid imagination and
united vision of two of the most down-to-earth
gentlemen in the Swiss watchmaking industry, Bruno
Belamich and Carlos Rosillo. The two men have been friends
since their days in school. What is extraordinary is that their
actual time together in the same school, in Paris, was a mere
year. But that’s really all it took to convince them that they were
destined to end up working together, further down the line.
Their paths crossed again after Belamich had graduated
from design school and Rosillo had finished his business
degree and had worked for some years in finance. Together
they envisioned a watch brand based on the military- and
aviation-style watches that had captured their imagination
since childhood.
In 1992, they started Bell & Ross with a $20,000
investment. Initially they collaborated with Sinn, who
fabricated their watches for them during the early years. The
brand made big news in 1997 when it created the Hydromax,
a liquid-filled quartz watch that descended to 11,000 meters
below sea level. The buzz they generated brought suitors and
that same year Chanel made a strategic investment in the brand.
Even then, it’s safe to say that Belamich and Rosillo had no idea
just how fast and how big Bell & Ross was about to become in
the span of 28 years.
In 2020, Bell & Ross has established itself as a staple name
in the universe of Swiss watchmaking, providing great value and
an aesthetic offering that is categorically unique. Their square
case with beveled edges and corners, held together by four
screws, is a visual identity that you could spot from a mile away.
The vast majority of the brand’s collection of watches today are
based on this very form factor. There are a few round watches
that deviate from this yet those, too, very much retain the highly
legible and tool watch design approach of Bell & Ross.
Having said that, we should note that the brand isn’t one
that’s overtly set in its ways. This it has demonstrated with the
launch of the BR 05 in 2019, which adapts the Bell & Ross
signature design and military/tool watch aesthetic to an elegant,
urban chic one — proving once again that great design can
be pulled and stretched in every direction to suit an end goal,
without it becoming unrelatable.
BR 05 SKELETON BLUE
Ref: BR05A-BLU-SKST/SST
Movement: Self-winding BR-CAL.322;
hours, minutes and seconds; 40-hour
power reserve
Case: 40mm; satin-finished and polished
steel; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Ribbed blue rubber or satinfinished
and polished steel
Price and availability: USD6,900; limited
edition of 500 pieces
BR 03-92 HUD
Ref: BR0392-HUD-CE/SRB
Movement: Self-winding BR-CAL.302;
hours, minutes and seconds; date; 40-
hour power reserve
Case: 42mm; matte black ceramic with
green-tinted sapphire crystal; waterresistant
to 100m
Strap: Black rubber and ultra-resilient
black synthetic fabric
Price and availability: USD3,990; limited
edition of 999 pieces
BR 05 BLACK STEEL & GOLD
Ref: BR05A-BL-STPG/SSG
Movement: Self-winding BR-CAL.322;
hours, minutes and seconds; date; 40-
hour power reserve
Case: 40mm; 18K rose gold and steel;
water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Ribbed black rubber or two-tone
18K rose gold and steel bracelet
Price: USD10,900
BR 03-92 DIVER FULL LUM
Ref: BR0392-D-C5-CE/SRB
Movement: Self-winding BR-CAL.302;
hours, minutes and seconds; date; 40-
hour power reserve
Case: 42mm; matte black ceramic with
luminescent green dial painted with
Super-LumiNova; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Woven black rubber and fabric
Price and availability: USD4,500; limited
edition of 999 pieces
BR-X1 R.S.20
Ref: BRX1-RS20/SRB
Movement: Self-winding BR-CAL.313;
hours and minutes; subsidiary seconds;
skeletonized date; chronograph;
tachymeter; 40-hour power reserve
Case: 45mm; satin-polished titanium and
ceramic; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Perforated black rubber
Price and availability: USD21,500; limited
edition of 250 pieces
BR-X1 TOURBILLON R.S.20
Ref: BRX1-CHTB-RS20/SRB
Movement: Manual-winding BR-
CAL.283; hours and minutes;
chronograph; flying tourbillon; four-day
power reserve
Case: 45mm; satin-polished titanium and
ceramic; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Perforated black rubber
Price and availability: USD194,000;
limited edition of five pieces
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MyTOPFIVEWatches
of 2020 (So Far)
definitely do not have. And that’s the reason I love this
watch. It is pure escapist fare. Most likely, I will never
own it because I can’t afford it right now, but damn, it
is so good.
Because of the quick-release system for the
bracelet, you can easily switch between this and the
rubber strap. Say, for example, you’re scheduled to
attend a slightly louche but very cool soirée where a
little horological extroversion might be de rigueur —
the gold bracelet perfectly fits the bill. However, if
you’re spending the day island-hopping, on a boat,
waterskiing or simply ensconced on your favourite
chaise lounge with the ever-present Behike clenched
between your teeth and a Negroni Sbagliato in hand
as you social isolate on your lawn, you might prefer
to switch to the far lighter and sportier rubber strap.
Peering into the depths of the hand-skeletonized
movement, you are reminded that there is no other
Swiss watchmaking firm as skilled in the excavation of
material, decoration and the finishing of bridges and
plates showcasing breathtaking sharp internal angles,
polishing and bevelling, than Vacheron Constantin.
1.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS
PERPETUAL CALENDAR ULTRA-THIN
SKELETON
Revolution founder Wei Koh’s top five timepieces of 2020,
a year that none of us will ever forget.
Words Wei Koh
What the hell are you thinking, dude? For your five favorite watches
of 2020, you’ve picked a GMT/world-time watch during a period
when no one can travel; two dive watches when it is unlikely that
anyone is going diving; two sports-chic watches inspired by the golden
age of the Riviera, when the Riviera today has become a bastion of vulgar
expressions of wealth entirely out of touch with the current state of the world.
I can already hear your comments. But, let me just say that these are the five
watches that are also feeling the most optimistic about the world for various
reasons, and also the five watches that I would be happy to spend my everdiminishing
personal funds on this year. So without further ado, here are my
top five timepieces of 2020, a year that none of us will ever forget.
I’ve always been a fan of the Vacheron Constantin
Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar, which, at 40mm in
diameter and 8.1mm in thickness, is actually thinner
than both the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual
Calendar as well as Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak
Perpetual Calendar. The model was initially launched
in a white gold and a slate-grey dial. But to me, the
watch really came into its own with the release of the
blue-dial version on a blue rubber strap with a rosegold
case.
Out of the various perpetual-calendar sports
watches, I like how the information is laid out here
best with a series of subdials with a full 48-month
leap-year cycle displayed at 12 o’clock. I was
convinced that there could be no more stylish
complicated sports-chic timepiece than this, but was
proven wrong with the release of the new skeletonized
version of the watch, now complete with a full rosegold
bracelet that is so damnably beautiful I cannot
stare too long at it for fear of parting with money that I
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2.
BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS
BATHYSCAPHE MOKARRAN LIMITED
EDITION
I can’t think of anyone who has set eyes on Blancpain’s
stunning Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Mokarran —
made in just 50 pieces and sold exclusively in its NYC
and Las Vegas boutiques — and hasn’t been blown
away by it. And while many of the recent limitededition
Fifty Fathoms have been homages to the
model’s storied past with diving culture (as in the
case of the Barracuda), or with its military history
(exemplified by the MilSpec and the Air Command
models), the Mokarran is a wonderful departure.
Instead, it is purely an exercise in color, but one that
has resulted in one of the most drop-dead-gorgeous
dive watches in recent memory.
I think it’s just the sheer beauty of its color
combination, but it makes me smile. Blancpain has
achieved this result through the use of the Swatch
Group’s impressive acumen in material innovation.
Its 43mm grey case and bezel surround are made from
ceramic. But what’s wonderful is that Blancpain was
the first brand I recall that properly mastered brushing
and finishing ceramic, like the way it did with its
steel cases. Indeed, they’ve even made ceramic cases
that so closely approximate the look of steel that you
would be hard-pressed to tell the difference until you
notice their relative lightness. The bezel insert is also
crafted in matte ceramic and the grey elapsed-dive
time indices are made from liquid metal in a process
where the voids for the indices are created using laser
engraving, and then liquid metal is inserted while
still malleable. Because these voids are shaped like
inverted V’s, the liquid metal is permanently fixed
inside before the entire bezel is polished. The tone of
the bezel perfectly complements the stunning sunrayfinished
green dial, while on the back the white-gold
rotor is laser-engraved with a hammerhead shark.
Keeping things pure and clean, the dial is devoid of a
date indicator — a first for the Bathyscaphe reference.
The watch is driven by the calibre 1318, which features
three barrels — barrels one and two, and power
barrel three — and features a silicon hairspring and a
free-sprung balance. One thousand dollars from the
sale of each watch will be donated to the Mokarran
Protection Society in French Polynesia dedicated to
the conservation of hammerhead sharks.
3.
TUDOR BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT
“NAVY BLUE”
Yes, I bought it — which was a stroke of good fortune,
as it apparently sold out worldwide in something like
two hours. Let me tell you why I feel it is the single best
value proposition in horology today.
From a design perspective, at 39mm, the size and
thickness of the watch are absolutely perfect. On a
bracelet, the fit on my wrist can only be described as
sublime. It might sound crazy, but there are two watch
brands whose timepieces you could put in my hand
while I’m blindfolded and I can tell you immediately
what they are: Rolex and Patek Philippe. They just
feel — for lack of a better word — “expensive”, in that
every element, crown, lug or buckle, feels perfectly
resolved. Well, I now need to add another brand to
that extremely short list — Tudor. Everything about
the Black Bay 58 is so perfectly executed: run your
fingers over the crown, and every one of its fluted
demarcations is pronounced, yet it’s smooth; the
action of the unidirectional rotating bezel is such a
pleasure to activate and listen to; the high-polished
bevels on the side of the lugs are absolutely ravishing
and create such a dynamic energy to the watch; the
bracelet, styled to look like a vintage riveted model,
is one of the very best in the business, as is the
deployment clasp. If I had one small gripe, it would
be that I wish they had added a fourth hole to the fine
adjustment. Locking and unlocking the deployent
clasp is an absolute pleasure.
There has been a lot of speculation about where
these bracelets are made. I notice on my bracelet
the presence of the letters “HF”, which may refer to
Hugeunin Freres, one of Switzerland’s most famous
case and bracelet makers. But, as you can imagine,
Tudor is keeping quiet on the subject. And then there
are all the things that may not be immediately obvious,
such as the fact that the bezel insert is crafted from
ceramic; the elapsed-dive indices in the bezel are
created by coating the laser-engraved voids with a
thin layer of PVD, then polishing the whole bezel;
and that inside, there is an in-house calibre MT5602
movement with a bi-directional rotor charging a
barrel with 70 hours of power reserve, a free-sprung
balance and a silicon hairspring. There is also the
incredible domed sapphire crystal, and the visual
impact of the watch.
While I have heard comments that it’s just a
change of color from the black model released last
year. I would stop you right there and say you’re
wrong. The entire identity of the watch expresses itself
in a different way — somehow more modern and cool
in execution versus the more retro-themed black
version — and the Pantone hue pays perfect homage
to the Marine Nationale “Snowflake” diving watches
with dials in a similar blue. As such, the name “Navy
Blue” has an amusing double meaning. The blue bezel
insert is quite a bit darker than the blue ceramic used
in the Pelagos Blue, making Tudor the first watch
company to create blue ceramic bezels in two distinct
colors. Now, factor in the price of the Black Bay Fifty-
Eight Blue, which is under four thousand US dollars,
and you have an unbeatable value proposition.
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4.
MONTBLANC 1858 GEOSPHERE
TITANIUM BLUE ON BEADS OF RICE
BRACELET
One of the more interesting GMT/world-time
watches to emerge from 2018 was an innovative watch
from Montblanc designed by Davide Cerrato named
the Geosphere. The dial of the watch features two half
domes: the top dome representing continents in the
Northern Hemisphere as viewed from space if you
were above the North pole, and the bottom dome for
continents in the Southern Hemisphere as viewed if
you were in space above the South pole. If you can
imagine being fixed in space and watching the world
from directly above and below its two poles, the world
would appear to be rotating in opposite directions;
and similarly, the two domes actually turn in opposite
directions. The rotational direction of the Earth is
prograde or progressing from west to east — which
means if viewed from above the North Pole, it rotates
counter-clockwise. From above the South Pole, this
rotation appears to be clockwise, and accordingly, the
dome for the Southern Hemisphere rotates clockwise.
Surrounding each of these domes are 24-hour rings
that are subdivided into daylight and night hours;
these are displayed with the daylight hours on the top
for the Northern Hemisphere; and the daylight hours
on the bottom for the Southern Hemisphere. This
means that if you are very good with geography, you
will be able to read time in all the 24 zones in one shot
in all the continents in the world. But there is also a
subdial at nine o’clock for a second time zone. Finally,
the continents are luminous and festooned with the
points for the Earth’s seven highest summits.
Until recently my favorite version of the Geosphere
was the bronze and green model that was created last
year, but I have to say that somehow, the titanium and
blue-dial model that was released this year is the most
appealing yet, and one of the best and most meaningful
watches of 2020. Why? Well, firstly in terms of
styling, the coolness of the titanium and blue dial with
clean, white Super-LumiNova liberally applied to
the cathedral hands, indices and all the continents,
brings a wonderful sense of tranquility to this complex
dial. Secondly, as it’s executed in titanium, the notinsubstantial
case (at 42mm in diameter and 12.8mm
in height) is now easy and lightweight. Thirdly, this
year, Montblanc launches what has to be the best
bracelet in recent memory that is a combination
of polished steel beads of rice in the centre and
solid titanium links at each side, which brings a
dimension of wonderful elegance and refinement to
the Geosphere. Fourthly, at around $6,200 for the
watch on the bracelet, it is excellent value. And finally,
in context of what we’ve experienced in the last six
months, there is no more salient reminder that all the
countries of the world need to co-exist on the planet,
and when we face something like the COVID-19
pandemic, we all face it together. And that makes me
really love the Geosphere, because it reminds me that
we are in this together.
5.
BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO
AUTOMATIC SATIN-POLISHED STEEL
I’ve been a fan of the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo ever since
it was launched back in 2014 — so much so that twice,
in 2016 and this year, I teamed up with the great guys
at Bvlgari — in particular, CEO Jean-Christophe
Babin, Creative Director Fabrizio Buonamassa and
Managing Director of the Watch Division Antoine
Pin — to create special editions of the Octo Finissimo
for Revolution and The Rake. Ever since I set eyes on it,
I understood that this was one of the most innovative
and original designs in modern horology; one that
united incredible competences in making in-house
movements, dials, watchcases and bracelets to arrive
at the coolest sports chic watch of the last decade.
In order to achieve the incredible combination of
muscularity with the ultra-lithe 5.15mm-thick profile,
Bvlgari had to constantly innovate and find new ways
to case the watch. And I respect that over the last six
years, it has focused on alternative materials including
titanium, carbon fiber and ceramic; and when it
entered into the more traditional realm of materials
like gold or steel, it did so with modern sandblasted
treatments of the cases.
The latest version executed in a stunning contrast
of brushed and polished steel, at 6mm, with a screwdown
crown and water-resistant to 100m, and
perhaps most importantly, a price of USD12,000,
I finally realized the full magnitude of the Octo
Finissimo. Here was the real first true competitor to
the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ultra-Thin and the
Patek Philippe Nautilus that was a viable alternative
for three important reasons: firstly, from a credibility
perspective, it was probably the only competitor to
these entrenched icons that bears no resemblance to
them whatsoever. Indeed, the Octo Finissimo is as
modern, innovative and iconoclastic today as those
watches were in the context of the 1970s. Secondly,
from a value perspective, it is priced considerably
cheaper than those two watches, with a much more
modern movement; indeed, AP’s movement is based
on the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920 that was in the
original Royal Oak back in 1972. Finally, unlike the
other two watches, it is still available in authorized
retailers and boutiques, and not only for sale with a
major premium attached on secondary sales sites,
which is a hugely important factor. Because, just like
in the good old days if you’ve worked hard and saved
your money, then you can walk into a Bvlgari boutique
and actually buy one moments after reading this,
and not have to troll the internet to find some dodgy
reseller who will charge you a premium for access.
I feel that moving forward, every luxury brand will
be measured for its underlying ethics. And, in this case,
Bvlgari has been nothing but exemplary, most recently
creating a virus eradication fund and financing part of
the development of the COVID vaccine undertaken
by Oxford University. Should it make you feel better
because your watch was made by guys with great
underlying ethics? Yes, damn right it should.
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Blancpain
Blancpain was established in 1735 by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain and the
brand stayed within the family for seven generations up until 1932. But
Blancpain’s success today is built on the efforts of several key members
outside the family. Jean-Jacques Fiechter, who joined in 1950 to head the
company alongside his aunt Betty Fiechter, developed the Fifty Fathoms in 1953,
the first modern diving watch. The Fifty Fathoms was adopted by navies around
the world, worn famously by Jacques Cousteau, and remains one of Blancpain’s
most well-received collections today.
And then of course, there’s Jacques Piguet and Jean-Claude Biver, who
bought Blancpain in 1981, by then little more than just a name, and revived it
with a simple communication: “Since 1735 there has never been a Blancpain
quartz watch. And there never will be.” Under the leadership of Piguet and
Biver, Blancpain mastered six areas of the watchmaking arts, including ultrathin,
moonphase complications, the perpetual calendar, the split-seconds
chronograph, the tourbillon and the minute repeater.
In 1992, Swatch Group bought back the company, and since 2002, Marc A.
Hayek has been the CEO of Blancpain. Blancpain continues to flourish today
with its two key collections Villeret and Fifty Fathoms striking the perfect balance
between absolutely timeless and classical shapes, and peerless provenance in
naval timepiece history. Blancpain’s past connections with diving instruments
also means that today, the brand is deeply committed to protecting the ocean,
and has helped kick-start a number of environmental initiatives.
TIMELINE
1735: Jehan-Jacques Blancpain registers
himself as a watchmaker in the Villeret
village records
1815: Frédéric-Louis Blancpain, his
grandson, modifies the watch escapement
design and develops an ultra-thin
construction
1926: First automatic wristwatch, in
partnership with John Harwood
1932: Business sold to Betty Fiechter and
André Léal
1950: Jean-Jacques Fiechter joins in
1950, playing a key role in developing the
Fifty Fathoms which debuted in 1953
1961: Becomes part of the Sociét
Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère (SSIH)
alongside Omega, Tissot and Lemania
1981: The Blancpain name is bought by
Jacques Piguet and Jean-Claude Biver
1983: Creates the world’s smallest
moonphase display
FIFTY FATHOMS AUTOMATIQUE
TITANIUM
Movement: Self-winding Manufacture
1315; hours, minutes; date; 120-hour
power reserve
Case and dial: Satin-brushed titanium;
45mm; 15.40mm thick; black dial;
water-resistant to 300m
Strap: Satin-brushed titanium with triple
folding clasp
Price: USD14,200
FIFTY FATHOMS AUTOMATIQUE
TITANIUM
Movement: Self-winding Manufacture
1315; hours, minutes; date; 120-hour
power reserve
Case and dial: Satin-brushed titanium;
45mm; 15.40mm thick; blue dial; waterresistant
to 300m
Strap: Satin-brushed titanium with triple
folding clasp
Price: USD14,200
FIFTY FATHOMS GRANDE DATE
TITANIUM
Movement: Self-winding 6918B, hours,
minutes; oversized date; 120-hour power
reserve
Case and dial: Titanium; 45mm;
16.27mm thick; black dial; waterresistant
to 300m
Strap: Satin-brushed titanium with triple
folding clasp
Price: USD18,300
VILLERET QUANTIÈME COMPLET IN
BLUE
Movement: Self-winding 6654; hours,
minutes, seconds; date; day and month;
moon phases; 72-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 18K red gold; 40mm;
midnight blue dial; under-lug calendar
correctors; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: 18K red gold Mille Mailles bracelet
or blue alligator leather
Price: USD25,700 (leather strap) and
USD45,000 (bracelet)
BATHYSCAPHE MOKARRAN LIMITED
EDITION
Movement: Self-winding 1318; hours,
minutes, seconds; 120-hour power
reserve
Case and dial: Satin-brushed black
ceramic; 43.6mm; unidirectional satinbrushed
black ceramic bezel with green
ceramic insert; green dial; water resistant
to 300m
Strap: Nylon fabric
Price: USD15,500
Limited edition of 50 pieces.
VILLERET ULTRAPLATE IN BLUE
Movement: Self-winding 1151; hours,
minutes, seconds; date; 100-hour power
reserve
Case and dial: 18K red gold; 40mm;
midnight blue dial; water-resistant to
30m
Strap: 18K red gold Mille Mailles bracelet
or blue alligator leather
Price: USD19,400 (leather strap) and
USD39,900 (bracelet)
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Breguet
It’s no exaggeration to say that Abraham-Louis Breguet
might be one of the greatest watchmakers of all time, and
that his contributions have left a mark on not just Breguet
the company, but the entire watchmaking history since 1775.
Breguet is credited for inventions such as the tourbillon, the
natural escapement, as well as the gong spring; his first great
breakthrough was the self-winding watch in 1780, when he
devised a system with a weight that acted like a pendulum inside
a pocket watch. He was a watchmaker to French aristocracy,
and counts Marie-Antoinette, Napoleon Bonaparte and
Tsar Alexander I as his clients. In the modern era, the brand
first had the backing of Investcorp, and since 1999, has been
part of Swatch Group. Breguet’s legacy was built not only on
the quality and complexity of its internal workings, but its
design also hugely influenced the industry. Breguet hands and
Breguet numerals remain very much part of our watchmaking
vocabulary today.
TIMELINE
1780: Breguet’s founding year
1801: The first tourbillon is invented
1954: Releases the Type XX aviation watch for the French
Ministry of Defence
1999: Swatch Group acquires Breguet
2001: Celebrates the 200th anniversary of the tourbillon
2002: The moonphase mechanism in the Reine de Naples
watch is patented
2005: Three patents are given to the new detent
escapement; the Tradition line is launched
2007: Launch of the Tradition 7047 Grande Complication
Fusée Tourbillon
2008: Reproduction of the watch No. 160 “Marie
Antoinette” based on pictures and descriptions
2011: The Breguet Classique 5717 Hora Mundi is born
MARINE TOURBILLON ÉQUATION
MARCHANTE 5887
Movement: Self-winding caliber 581DPE;
hours, minutes and seconds; tourbillon;
perpetual calendar with retrograde
date; equation of time; power-reserve
indication; 80-hour power reserve
Case: 18K rose gold; 43.9mm; slate-grey
gold dial; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Brown alligator leather with triplefolding
buckle
Price: USD215,000
CLASSIQUE 7137
Movement: Self-winding caliber 502.3
DR1; hours and minutes; date; moon
phases; power-reserve indication; 46-
hour power reserve
Case: 18K white gold or rose fold;
39mm; 18K gold dial with engine
turning; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Alligator leather with
folding buckle
Price: USD40,000
CLASSIQUE 7337
Movement: Self-winding caliber 502.3
QSE1; hours and minutes; small
seconds; date; day; moon phases; 45-
hour power reserve
Case: 18K white or rose gold; 39mm;
18K gold dial with engine turning;
water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Alligator leather with gold
folding buckle
Price: USD43,000
CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT
5367
Movement: Extra-thin self-winding
caliber 581; hours and minutes;
tourbillon with titanium carriage and
small seconds; 80-hour power reserve
Case: Platinum; 41mm; blue grand feu
enamel dial; water resistant to 30m
Strap: Blue alligator leather with triplefolding
platinum buckle
Price: USD161,800
REINE DE NAPLES 8918
Movement: Self-winding caliber 537/3;
hours and minutes; 45-hour power
reserve
Case: 18K white gold; pear-shaped;
36.5mm x 28.45mm; diamond-set bezel
and dial flange; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Alligator leather in blue with
triple-folding clasp
Price: USD37,400
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Breitling
Bulova
Breitling’s long history as one of the world’s most
prestigious watchmakers has not prevented it from
maintaining the technique, certified quality and freshness
with which it has renewed itself at every stage of its existence —
a commitment to excellence that its collectors and new
fans adore.
Since its founding by Léon Breitling in 1884, it has become
the benchmark for quality in chronograph manufacture. The
house was the creator of the two-pusher chronographs that are
now standardized for use around the world.
As early as the 1940s, Breitling laid the foundations for its
great international prestige thanks to its strong links with and
contributions to aviation.
With the launch of the Navitimer in 1952, Breitling
conquered the hearts not only of pilots, but also of a wider
public on both sides of the Atlantic. Breitling is also credited
with having participated in the creation and marketing of the
first modular automatic chronograph movement in 1969 —
the Chronomatic.
This year, Breitling has reinvented its collection with the
rebirth of the famous Chronomat B01 in a 42mm version. This
was the watch that pretty much saved the company during the
aftermath of the Quartz Crisis in the 1980s , while redefining
the concept of the “sports chronograph”. Several of the new
references take advantage of the original use of colors as well as
the outstanding B01 self-winding manufacture caliber.
Another great novelty is the reissue of the Superocean
Heritage ‘57, a new collection, based on the brand’s 1950s
diver, that stands out for its original sloping bezel, ideal
readability and unquestionable vintage taste, reaffirming a
legacy of more than 60 years.
A special mention goes to the new iteration of the timeonly
Navitimer Automatic 35, which, as its name indicates,
is presented in a 35mm case that is eminently suited for the
feminine wrist. The new references take advantage of the
refined aesthetics of the watch and are accompanied by a
generous variety of colors in the dials to maximize the model’s
aura of style and beauty.
Bulova’s history of firsts began with
its founding in 1875 by Joseph
Bulova in New York City. From
standardized production, the world’s
first fully electronic watch, to innovative
collaborations and promotions, Bulova
continues to look to the future with
recent launches like the Precisionist
collection and the CURV, the world’s
first curved chronograph movement.
Successful revivals look to the past,
reimagining archival highlights like the
Devil Diver, the Computron and vintage
military watches. Contemporary styling
is found in collections like “Futuro” and
collaborations with the Grammy’s and
Harley-Davidson, while retro looks find
inspiration in Frank Sinatra and Frank
Lloyd Wright.
SUTTON AUTOMATIC
Reference number: 97A161
Movement Miyota 8N24 automatic
skeletonized movement; hours, minutes
and seconds
Case: 43mm; rose-gold-tone
stainless steel
Strap: Blue croco textured leather with
deployant buckle
Price: USD550
VETERANS WATCHMAKER INITIATIVE
HACK WATCH
Reference number: 97A259
Movement Miyota 82S0-43A three-hand
automatic movement; hours, minutes
and seconds
Case: 38mm; stainless steel
Strap: Nylon NATO
Price: USD350
CHRONOMAT B01 42
Reference NumberAB0134101K1A1
Movement: Self-winding caliber Breitling
01; hours and minutes; subsidiary
seconds; 1/4th second chronograph with
30-minute and 12-hour totalizers; 70-
hour power reserve
Case: 42mm; stainless steel; waterresistant
to 200m
Strap: Signature “Rouleaux” bracelet in
stainless steel
Price: USD8,100
SUPEROCEAN HERITAGE ’57
Reference NumberA10370161C1X1
Movement:Self-winding caliber Breitling
10; hours, minutes and seconds; 42-hour
power reserve
Case: 42mm; stainless steel with ceramic
bezel; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Brown calfskin leather or
stainless-steel mesh bracelet
Price: USD4,380
NAVITIMER AUTOMATIC 35
Reference NumberA17395F41G1A1
MovementSelf-winding caliber Breitling
17; hours, minutes and seconds;
logarithmic scale; 38-hour power reserve
Case: 35mm; stainless steel; waterresistant
to 30m
Strap: Burgundy leather or stainlesssteel
bracelet
Price: USD4,860
MY WAY – FRANK SINATRA
Reference number: 97A158
Movement Miyota calibre 1L45 quartz;
hours and minutes; small seconds
Case: 30mm x 47mm; gold-tone
stainless steel
Strap: Brown leather with deployant
buckle
Price: USD525
THE BEST IS YET TO COME – FRANK
SINATRA
Reference number: 968345
Movement Calibre SW215; Swiss
manual-winding mechanical movement;
hours, minutes and seconds; date
Case: 40mm; stainless steel
Strap: Croco-grain brown leather with
deployant buckle
Price: USD1,150
FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT FOUNDATION
80TH ANNIVERSARY
Reference number: Square, Circle,
Triangle
Movement 2036-00B/ V2901.37 quartz;
hours and minutes
Case: 35mm x 49mm brushed/polished
gold-tone case
Strap: Stitched black leather with
deployant buckle
Price: USD475; limited edition of
500 pieces
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Bvlgari
The Bvlgari that was founded in the region of Epirus, Greece, in 1884 by a
silversmith by the name of Sotirios Boulgaris, is vastly different from the
massive conglomerate it is today, whose influence encompasses jewellery
and watches to leather goods and hotel properties. And, quite remarkably,
Bvlgari, who is known to most as the jeweller to the stars, crafting extravagant
and luscious necklaces and tiaras for the likes of Elizabeth Taylor, is today
equally known and respected for its serious achievements in watchmaking.
It’s a journey that begins in the 2000s, when Bvlgari acquired Gérald Genta
and Daniel Roth, two Swiss leaders in haute horlogerie. Thus begins a decade
of massive acquisitions of other Swiss companies, putting Bvlgari on the fast
track of gaining the know-how and skills of producing top-quality cases, dials
and bracelets, in addition to its expertise in complications and mechanical
movements. In 2010, a year before LVMH acquired a majority stake in Bvlgari,
the Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth Manufacture was acquired by Bvlgari. And
in 2012, the Octo, refined upon Gérald Genta’s design, was born. Today, we
cannot speak about Bvlgari without mentioning the incredible achievements
of the Octo Finissimo. First presented in 2014, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon
achieved a world record with the thinnest tourbillon movement on the market.
In six years, the Octo Finissimo has broken five world records, proving that the
brand is a force to be reckoned with.
TIMELINE
1884: Bvlgari is founded.
1977: Launches Bvlgari Bvlgari, the first
men’s collection.
1982: Builds watch business unit in
Neuchàtel, Switzerland.
2000: Acquires haute horlorgerie makers
Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth.
2010: The Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth
Manufacture is absorbed into the brand.
2014: Octo Finissimo Tourbillon is
“world’s thinnest tourbillon movement”
2016: Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater
sets new world record.
2017: Debuts the slimmest automatic on
the market at the time.
2018: Presents the world’s thinnest
Automatic Tourbillon watch.
2019: 5th world record: Octo Finissimo
Chronograph GMT
OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON
CHRONOGRAPH SKELETON
AUTOMATIC
Movement: Automatic BVL 388
caliber; hours, minutes; monopusher
chronograph and tourbillon; 52-hour
power reserve
Case and Dial: Sandblasted titanium
case; 42mm; 7.40mm thick; skeletonized
matte grey dial
Strap: Sandblasted titanium bracelet with
folding buckle
Price: On request, limited edition of
50 pieces.
OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC SATIN-
POLISHED STEEL BLUE
Movement: Automatic BVL138 Finissimo
caliber with platinum micro-rotor; hours,
minutes and small seconds indications;
60-hour power reserve
Case: Satin-polished steel case; 40mm;
5.25mm thick, blue lacquered dial;
water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Integrated satin-polished steel
bracelet with folding clasp
Price: USD12,000
OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC BLACK
SANDBLAST-POLISHED CERAMIC
Movement: Automatic BVL138 Finissimo
caliber with platinum micro-rotor; hours,
minutes and small seconds indications;
60-hour power reserve
Case and Dial: Sandblasted ceramic;
40mm; 5.50mm thick; sandblasted
ceramic dial; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Sandblasted polished ceramic
bracelet with folding clasp
Price: USD15,600
OCTO FINISSIMO MINUTE REPEATER IN
SANDBLASTED ROSE GOLD
Movement: BVL362 ultra-thin manual
wind minute repeater; hours and
minutes; small seconds at 6 o’clock; 42-
hour power reserve
Case and Dial: Sandblasted 18k rose
gold case and dial; 40mm; 6.90mm thick;
water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Brown matte alligator leather with
18K rose gold ardillon buckle
Price: USD170,000
BULGARI SERPENTI SEDUTTORI
TOURBILLON
Movement: Manual winding caliber
BVL150, tourbillon, hours and minutes
indications, 40-hour power-reserve,
Case and Dial: 18K rose gold; 34mm;
8.90mm thick; full snow set dial; waterresistant
to 30m.
Strap: Brown leather strap with folding
clasp set with round brilliant-cut
diamonds
Price: USD78,000
DIVAS’ DREAM FINISSIMA MINUTE
REPEATER MALACHITE
Movement: Manual wind BVL 362 extrathin
movement; minute repeater with two
hammers; 42-hour power reserve
Case and Dial: 18k white gold; 37mm;
green malachite dial with diamonds
Strap: Green alligator leather with 18K
white gold folding buckle set with round
brilliant-cut diamonds
Price: USD219,900
Limited edition of 10 pieces
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Cartier
Not that anyone would forget the greatness that is
Cartier’s watchmaking, but with the releases of the
Santos, the Tank Asymétrique and the revival of
the Pasha, we are reminded once again that Cartier has an
unrivalled ability to make watches that are not only the perfect
homage to its past heritage, but also relevant, modern and
timeless. At the turn of the 20th century, Cartier created
one of its most significant timepieces: the Santos-Dumont,
the very first known luxury men’s wristwatch designed for
Alberto Santos-Dumont by Louis Cartier. The seminal watch,
which later inspired the creations of the Santos in 1978 and
the Panthère in 1983, is reintroduced this year in the most
compelling way — several limited versions of the watch, each
named after one of Santos-Dumont’s famous aircrafts,
were released.
The sporty and dynamic Pasha also sees a revival this year,
yet again demonstrating Cartier’s strength in design. The
Pasha has seen several incarnations over the years, including
complicated offerings during the CPCP era. Today, the Pasha
is brought back in its most classic Gérald Genta-esque form,
with only time and date options. The Tank Asymétrique, based
on the 1936 Parallelogram watch, is yet another testament to
Cartier’s design language mastery. Since 2015, Cartier has
been releasing variations of its legendary watches in limited
and numbered series in the Privé colletion. Following the
Crash, the Tank Cintrée and the Tonneau in recent years,
2020 is the year for the Tank Asymétrique to enter the
exclusive circle.
But that’s not all. Cartier is, after all, also very well beloved
by the ladies. The maison debuted the Maillon de Cartier,
a one-off design that is part watch and part jewelry, with a
chain-link bracelet and a hexagonally shaped bezel. Jewelry
watches in the Panthère de Cartier family further reflect
Cartier’s creativity.
SANTOS-DUMONT “LE 14 BIS”
LIMITED EDITION
Movement: Manual wind 430 MC calibre,
hours, minutes, 38-hour power reserve
Case: 18K yellow gold and steel, 43.5mm
x 31.4mm, 7.3mm thick, crown set with a
blue synthetic spinel cabochon
Strap: Grey alligator leather
Price: USD7,250, limited and numbered
edition of 500 pieces.
SANTOS-DUMONT “LA DEMOISELLE”
LIMITED EDITION
Movement: Manual wind 430 MC calibre,
hours, minutes, 38-hour power reserve.
Case: Platinum, 46.6mm x 33.9mm,
7.5mm thick, panama fabric pattern dial,
crown set with a ruby cabochon
Strap: Two straps, panama fabric and
brown alligator leather
Price: USD43,600, limited and numbered
edition of 30 pieces.
CARTIER PRIVÉ TANK ASYMÉTRIQUE
Movement: Manual wind 1917 MC
calibre, hours, minutes, 38-hour power
reserve
Case: Pink or yellow gold or platinum
with silver or anthracite dial, 47.15mm x
26.2mm, 6.38mm thick, crown set with a
sapphire cabochon
Strap: Grey or brown alligator
Price: USD26,400 (yellow gold and pink
gold); USD30,100 (platinum), limited to
100 pieces in each metal.
MAILLON DE CARTIER
Movement: Quartz, hours, minutes
Case and dial: 16mm x 17mm, 6.8mm
thick,18Kyellow,pinkorwhitegold,
with or without diamonds, silver dial with
radiating Roman numerals,
splash-resistant
Strap: Matching gold chain-link bracelet,
pave diamonds on white gold version
Price: USD25,100 (yellow gold);
USD31,100 (pink gold); USD33,500
(white gold)
ROTONDE DE CARTIER GRANDE
COMPLICATION SKELETON
Movement: Self-winding caliber
9506MC; hours and minutes; perpetual
calendar; minute repeater; flying
tourbillon; skeleton movement; 50-hour
power reserve
Case: 45mm case in 18K pink gold; slate
gray skeleton dial; water resistant to 30m
Strap: Grey alligator leather strap
Price: On request
ROTONDE DE CARTIER MINUTE
REPEATER MYSTERIOUS DOUBLE
TOURBILLON
Movement: Manual winding caliber
9507MC; hours and minutes; minute
repeater, double tourbillon; mysterious
design; 84-hour power reserve (approx.)
Case: 45mm in 18K pink gold, water
resistant to 30m
Strap: Grey alligator leather
Price: On request
CARTIER PRIVÉ TANK ASYMÈTRIQUE
SKELETON
Movement: Manual wind 9623 MC,
skeletonised, minutes, hours, 48-hour
power reserve
Case: Platinum; extra-large model,
47.15mm x 26.2 mm, 7.82mm thick,
crown set with a sapphire cabochon
Strap: Blueandblackalligatorleather
straps
Price: On request, limited and numbered
edition of 100 pieces.
PASHA DE CARTIER 41MM
Movement: Automatic 1847 MC calibre,
hours, minutes, 40-hour power reserve
Case: 18K yellow gold or stainless steel;
large model, 41mm; 9.55mm thick;
crown set with sapphire cabochon (spinel
cabochon on steel version)
Strap: Alligator leather for all models;
matching steel bracelet for steel version
Price: USD6,800 (in stainless steel) and
USD16,600 (in gold)
PASHA DE CARTIER IN DIAMONDS
Movement: Automatic 530 MC calibre,
hours, minutes, 40-hour power reserve
Case: 18K white gold; small model,
35mm, 9.9mm thick; crown set with a
brilliant-cut diamond dial set with 318
brilliant-cut diamonds, case and bracelet
set with 625 brilliant-cut diamonds
Strap: 18K white gold bracelet set with
brilliant-cut diamonds
Price: On request.
Limited and numbered edition of 100 pieces.
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Casio
Chanel
Casio is a household name for the masses today, some
seven decades in the making. Although, where the
universe of horology is concerned, this could not have
been the case if not for the pioneering spirit of one individual,
Kikuo Ibe, who set out to create an indestructible timepiece in
the early 1980s.
The story goes that on a day like any other, the watch that
Ibe-san’s father had gifted him, fell from his wrist and became
completely destroyed. The sentimental worth of this watch was
such that Ibe-san took it upon himself to create a watch that
wouldn’t be so fragile when faced with the perils of daily life.
Lo and behold, in 1983 — and 200 prototypes later — Ibe-san
gave the world its first G-SHOCK: the Casio DW-5000C.
Since then, the G-SHOCK has garnered a somewhat cultlike
following, with a multitude of iterations, all of which stem
from the foundations that were set by Ibe-san’s initial “Triple
10” development concept, which requires that all G-SHOCKs
must have a 10-year battery life, 10-bar (100-meter) water
resistance and be able to withstand a 10-meter free fall.
Casio, as a manufacture, has ensured that it’s continued
to build upon Ibe-san’s fundamentals, to create ever more
extreme G- SHOCKs, ever more efficiently, and with ever
more creative executions thanks to the various street labels
and artists who have partnered with the brand to create
limited editions. As a result, Casio has produced all varieties
of G-SHOCKs in large numbers, catering to a proportionally
large following from all walks of life.
Beyond its journey into becoming a cultural icon, the
G-SHOCK has also kept pushing boundaries taking on newage
materials while maintaining its indestructible qualities.
The biggest leap in this latter regard, perhaps came with the
announcement of the GMW-B5000TB in late 2019, which was
an evolution of the original square G-SHOCK with its case and
bracelet made fully in titanium.
At a time when watches were still predominately a man’s world, Chanel — very
much in the spirit of Gabrielle Chanel herself — decided to move into horology
by creating its very first timepiece, the Première. The watch was based on
Place Vendôme and the octagonal shape of its No. 5 perfume bottle stopper, and made
exclusively for women. Haute-couture house they may be, but its watchmaking knowhow
cannot be underestimated. Following the successful launch of the Première, the
world once again took heed when Chanel launched the J12 in 2000, a revolutionary unisex
timepiece that was instantly well received by both genders, inspired by Jacques Helleu’s
love of yachts. Chanel also pioneered the use of high-tech ceramics, way before ceramics
was even a popular material to use in watchmaking.
In 2005, Chanel presented the J12 Tourbillon, which marked its entry into haute
horlogerie and its subsequent partnerships with Audemars Piguet — the J12 Mysterious
Retrograde in 2010 was powered with a Renaud et Papi APRP movement. In 2016, the
brand proudly presented its first in-house manufacture movement, the Caliber 1, in the
Monsieur de Chanel watch with jumping hours and instantaneous retrograde minutes.
In quick succession, Chanel brought us the Caliber 2 in 2017 and the Caliber 3in2018.
Last year, Chanel acquired a stake in the new Kenissi manufacture, which also produces
movements for Tudor. The thoroughly revamped J12 also launched that year, tastefully
done by Arnaud Chastaingt and featuring the new Caliber 12.1 by Kenissi. This year marks
the 20th anniversary of the J12 and, with great fanfare, Chanel launched a host of limited
editions, from an all-sapphire version, to an anniversary model that features 20 different
symbols and references from the brand.
TIMELINE
1987: Presents the Première
1993: Acquires Manufacture G&F
Châtelain in La Chaux-de-Fonds
2000: Jacques Helleu designs the J12
2002: Acquires Bell & Ross
2005: The J12 Tourbillon is Chanel’s
first complication
2011: J12 in new ceramic colors
2012: The Mademoiselle Privé
collection showcases métiers d’art
2015: The Boy Friend watch is born
2016: Chanel presents its first
manufacture movement, the Caliber 1
2017: Caliber2 debuts in the Première
Camélia Skeleton
2018: The Caliber 3 is born
2019: Acquires stake in manufacture
Kenissi alongside Tudor and debuts
the Caliber 12.1, derived from Tudor’s
MT5600 movements
2020: Celebrates 20 years of the J12
G-SHOCK FULL METAL
CONSTRUCTION GMW-B5000 WITH
GRID DESIGN REF. GMWB5000CS-1
Movement: Quartz; calendar;
worldtimer; Bluetooth; GPS; stopwatch;
countdown timer and alarms; 10-month
rechargeable battery (normal use)
Case: 49.3 ×43.2 × 13mm; steel with
black IP treatment; water-resistant to
200m
Strap: Matching bracelet
Price and availability: USD800; only
available for a limited time
G-SHOCK “G-SQUAD” GBD-H1000
Ref. GBD-H1000-4
Movement: Quartz; dedicated
training functions; wrist heart rate
measurement; training analysis; digital
compass; altimeter; barometer;
thermometer; stopwatch; rechargeable
battery with 12-month operating time
(without training functions)
Case: 63×55×20.4mm;redresinand
stainless steel; water-resistant to 200m
Strap: Red resin
Price: USD399
G-SHOCK × NASA DW5600Ref.
DW5600NASA20
Movement: Quartz; hours, minutes
and seconds; calendar indications;
1/100th second stopwatch; flash alert;
electroluminescent backlight afterglow;
two-year CR2016 battery
Case: 48.9 × 42.8 × 13.4mm; white resin
and stainless steel; water-resistant to
200m
Strap: White resin
Price and availability: USD130; limited
to one per household
J12.20 ENAMEL
Movement: Self-winding Caliber 12.1,
hours, minutes, seconds; COSCcertified;
70-hour power reserve
Case and dial: Black ceramic; 18K white
gold bezel and dial with champléve
enamel motifs and diamonds; 38mm;
water-resistant to 200m
Strap: Black ceramic bracelet with 18K
white gold triple-folding buckle
Price: USD75,100
Numbered and limited edition of 5 pieces.
J12.20
Movement: Self-winding Caliber 12.1,
hours, minutes, seconds; COSCcertified;
70-hour power reserve
Case and dial: White ceramic and
steel; 38mm; white lacquered dial with
rhodium-plated motifs and diamonds;
water-resistant to 200m
Strap: White ceramic with 18K white gold
triple-folding buckle
Price: USD7,750
Limited to 2,020 pieces
J12 PARADOXE
Movement: Self-winding Caliber 12.1;
hours, minutes, seconds; COSCcertified;
70-hour power reserve
Case and dial: Black ceramic and 18K
white gold case, bezel set with baguettecut
diamonds, diamond indicators;
water-resistant to 50m
Strap: Black ceramic bracelet with 18K
white gold triple-folding buckle
Price: On request
Numbered and limited edition of 20 pieces
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Chopard
Louis-Ulysse Chopard established L.U.C in 1860, in the Swiss village of
Sonvillier where the company very early on built itself a reputation for
reliable high-quality watches that were sold throughout Europe, including
to Tsar Nicholas II. In 1963, the company was sold to Karl Scheufele III, where
it has remained with the Scheufele family ever since. Today, siblings Karl-
Friedrich and Caroline Scheufele continue to lead the company, where Caroline
is responsible for the ladies’ collections, as well as Chopard’s highly acclaimed
jewellery and high-jewelry departments, and Karl-Friedrich manages the
men’s collection, developing sports watches through the 1980s and opening
the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier in the 1990s to produce the L.U.C
movements. The L.U.C 1860 housing the caliber 1.96 raised Chopard’s profile
as a serious horological maison and ushered in two decades of groundbreaking
mechanical movement innovation. Family and genuine commitment to
everything they do are very much at the core of Chopard. The Mille Miglia
started as a sponsorship in 1988, but has now become an integral part of
Chopard’s DNA, bolstered by Karl-Friedrich’s genuine interest in vintage
cars and racing. Chopard also takes ethics and sustainability very seriously.
It was the first company to really commit to 100-percent ethical gold and the
responsible sourcing of all its raw materials — in line with the requirements of
the Chopard Code of Conduct for Partners.
TIMELINE
1860: Louis-Ulysse Chopard establishes
L.U.C in Sonvillier
1963: Scheufele acquires Chopard
1976: Birth of the Happy Diamonds
concept
1988: Becomes the main sponsor of the
Mille Miglia
1993: The Happy Sport watch line is born
1996: Establishes a new watch
manufacture in Fleurier
1998: Becomes official partner of the
Cannes Film Festival
2000: TheQuattroisintroduced,withtwo
sets of stacked barrels bringing nine days
of power reserve
2003: TheL.U.CTourbillonisunveiled
2017: Wins Geneva Grand Prix for the Full
Strike, world’s first minute repeater with
sapphire-crystal gongs
L.U.C PERPETUAL TWIN
Movement: Self-winding L.U.C calibre
96.22-L; hours and minutes; small
seconds; perpetual calendar with big
date display; 65-hour power reserve
Case and dial: Stainless steel; 43mm;
blue sunray-finished dial; water resistant
to 30m
Strap: Bluealligatorstrapwithmatching
metal pin buckle
Price: USD24,700
L.U.C PERPETUAL TWIN
Movement: Self-winding L.U.C calibre
96.22-L; hours and minutes; small
seconds; perpetual calendar with big
date display; 65-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 18K rose gold; 43mm;
ruthenium grey dial; water resistant to
30m
Strap: Brown alligator strap with
matching metal pin buckle
Price: Available on request
MILLE MIGLIA GTS AZZURRO POWER
CONTROL
Movement: Self-winding calibre 01.08-C;
hours, minutes and seconds; date; powerreserve
indication; 60-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 18K rose gold and stainless
steel; 43mm; circular-brushed blue dial;
water resistant to 100m
Strap: Blue calf leather with perforations
and blue rubber lining and folding clasp
Price: USD9,990; limited to 500 pieces
MILLE MIGLIA GTS AZZURRO CHRONO
Movement: Self-winding mechanical;
hours and minutes; small seconds; date;
chronograph; COSC-certified; 48-hour
power reserve
Case and dial: Stainless steel; 44mm;
circular satin-brushed blue dial; water
resistant to 100m
Strap: Blue calf leather with
perforations and blue rubber lining and
folding clasp
Price: USD7,630; limited to 750 pieces
HAPPY SPORT JOAILLERIE
Movement: Self-winding calibre 96.17-
C; hours and minutes; 65-hour power
reserve
Case and dial: 18K white gold; 36mm;
seven dancing diamonds on mother-ofpearl
dial; water resistant to 30m
Strap: Alligator leather with matching
gold buckle set with diamonds
Price: USD89,000
HAPPY SPORT JOAILLERIE
Movement: Self-winding calibre 96.17-
C; hours and minutes; 65-hour power
reserve
Case and dial: 18K rose gold; 36mm;
seven dancing diamonds on mother-ofpearl
dial; water resistant to 30m
Strap: Alligator leather with matching
gold buckle set with diamonds
Price: USD89,000
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Citizen
Chronoswiss
If there was ever a year to promote an
environmentally conscious timepiece,
Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology
has found its time and place. Citizen’s
renewable-resource technology converts
light into energy by harnessing light from
any natural or artificial source to fuel the
movement, therefore, eliminating the
constant need for buying and discarding
new batteries. Links with Walt Disney
Parks, the Marvel Universe, and Star
Wars add lighthearted watch-collecting
fun while maintaining their ethos of
providing an innovative, well-rounded
collection created for citizens of the
entire world.
SUPER TITANIUM ARMOR 3H
Reference number: AW1660-51H
Movement: Caliber J810; hours,
minutes and seconds; date
Case: 41mm; Super Titanium
Strap: Super Titanium bracelet
Price: USD550
PROMASTER NIGHTHAWK
Reference number: BJ7135-02E
Movement: Caliber B877; hours,
minutes and seconds; dual time zones;
sliding scale for measurement
Case: 42mm; black stainless steel;
water resistant to 200m
Strap: Black leather
Price: USD495
Afew weeks ago, Chronoswiss, the company based in
Lucerne and synonymous with regulator-style watches,
presented its renewed image, which is largely defined
by its new slogan: “Modern Mechanical.” This message is
accompanied by a number of watch launches that demonstrate
the strengths, values and direction of the brand headed by our
friend Oliver Ebstein.
These watches that stand out so much are of the regulating
type, that is to say, watches that display the hours, minutes and
seconds on different parts of the dial. This concept originates
from the regulator clocks that were found in the watch
observatories and workshops of the 19th century and which were
used to set the time for pocket watches and
marine chronometers.
The Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec Chocolate is a delicious
watch in many ways. The new piece stands out for its bold
three-dimensional face, where the circular base is presented
in red, finished by sandblasting and varnishing that gives it that
incredible “sugary” look. The skeletonized dial for the hours
and the arch of the retrograde seconds seem to float over the
scarlet frosted surface. The steel case and large onion crown are
finished in scratch-resistant brown PVD. This watch, which
amazingly includes a one-year quarterly subscription to Max
Chocolatier from Lucerne, is limited to 50 pieces.
Naturally, the classic lines that have defined Chronoswiss
for more than 35 years will never be absent from its most
conservative regulators. Proof of this is the Regulator Classic
Blue Steel, where the bluish proposal of the 41mm steel case is
accompanied by the more traditional dial of the Classic range,
with sectored subdials and Roman typography.
But if you prefer a regulator with a slightly sportier air,
Chronoswiss offers numerous variants of its most classic
regulator. One of the most dramatic is the Carbon Racer, which
has an immediate association with motoring. Unlike the other
classic regulators from Lucerne, the Carbon Racer in black and
red adds Arabic numerals, which give it a more “racing” feel.
PROMASTER NIGHTHAWK
Reference number: BJ7138-04E
Movement: CaliberB877; hours, minutes
and seconds; dual time zones; sliding
scale for measurement
Case: 42mm; two-tone stainless steel;
water resistant to 200m
Strap: Olive-green leather
Price: USD495
SUPER TITANIUM ARMOR CHRONO
Reference number: CA7050-57H
Movement: Caliber B642; hours and
minutes; chronograph
Case: 44mm; Super Titanium; water
resistant to 100m
Strap: Super Titanium bracelet
Price: USD650
SUPER TITANIUM ARMOR CHRONO
Reference number: CA7058-55E
Movement: Caliber B642; hours and
minutes; chronograph
Case: 44mm; Super Titanium; water
resistant to 100m
Strap: Two-tone Super Titanium
bracelet
Price: USD650
OPEN GEAR RESEC CHOCOLATE
Reference Number: CH-6927-REBK
Movement: Self-winding caliber C.
301; off-center hours; central minutes;
retrograde seconds; 42-hour
power reserve
Case: 44mm; stainless steel with brown
PVD coating; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Hand-sewn calfskin
Price and availability: CHF9,900;
limited edition of 50 pieces
REGULATOR CLASSIC BLUE STEEL
Reference Number: CH-8776-BL
Movement: Self-winding caliber C.
295; off-center hours; central minutes;
subsidiary seconds; 42-hour
power reserve
Case: 41mm; stainless steel with blue
PVD coating; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Louisiana alligator leather sewn
and dyed by hand
Price: CHF4,900
REGULATOR CLASSIC CARBON RACER
Reference Number: CH-8773-CARE
Movement: Self-winding caliber C.
295; off-center hours; central minutes;
subsidiary seconds; 42-hour
power reserve
Case: 41mm; stainless steel; waterresistant
to 100m
Strap: Rubber or stainless-steel bracelet
Price: CHF4,700
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Corum
De Bethune
Founded in 1955 in La Chauxde-Fonds,
Corum is best known
for its technical excellence, and
artistically edgy collections like the
nautical flag-inspired Admiral, the
transparent Golden Bridges, and the
witty domed Bubble watches. Multiple
presidents have worn Corum’s beloved
coin dial watches: George Bush Sr.,
Ronald Reagan, Jimmy Carter and, most
recently, Bill Clinton have all sported the
heritage watch. The year 2016 saw the
return of the Bubble watch, its domed,
double anti-reflective sapphire crystal
creating a magnifying-glass effect
highlighting sporty, surrealistic and,
often, macabre themed dials.
GOLDEN BRIDGE ROUND 39
Reference Number: B113/04136
-113.001.69/OF03 BD50G
Movement: CO 113 automatic
movement; hours and minutes; 40-hour
power reserve
Case: 39mm; 18K white gold; water
resistant to 30m
Strap: Blue alligator leather strap with
triple-folding clasp
Price: USD65,000; custom order
CORUM LAB 02
Reference Number: Z300/03999
-300.100.55/OF02 0010
Movement: Calibre CO300 automatic
movement; hours and minutes; date;
flying tourbillon; 55-hour power reserve
Case: 45mm; 18K rose gold; water
resistant to 30m
Strap: Brown alligator leather with
triple-folding clasp
Price: USD180,000; fully customizable
At only 18 years old, De Bethune is very much a newcomer on the
watchmaking block, but what the brand has managed to achieve in
a relatively short amount of time is nothing short of astounding. De
Bethune bills itself as a watchmaker for the third millennium, a young firebrand
pushing the practice of watchmaking forward, in both technique and aesthetics.
On the technical front, De Bethune has numerous patents and inventions
under its belt. From their own balance spring to co-founder Denis Flageollet’s
ever-improving balance wheel — the latest of which accounts for a 20-percent
improvement in power reserve — through to shock-absorbing systems,
improved escapements and an incredibly light tourbillon cage. De Bethune
strives to improve every aspect of the timekeeping efficiency and accuracy of a
mechanical watch.
Of course, De Bethune’s distinctive aesthetics are informed by their work on
the technical side. A case in point is the spherical moon phase, or the brand’s
radically architectural — almost sculptural — floating lugs, which pivot from
the central axis. And then there’s the way De Bethune works with titanium,
transforming the typically utilitarian metal into a work of wonder through heatbluing
and mirror polishing. These treatments, combined with the futuristic
vision of the brand, result in watches that are bold, vibrant horological creations
that embody the future of the very finest watchmaking traditions.
TIMELINE:
2002: De Bethune is founded by Denis
Flageollet and David Zanetta
2004: Patent filed for unique balanceand-spring
assembly and spherical
moonphase display
2006: Patent filed for De Bethune’s unique
floating lugs
2009: Releases the world’s lightest
tourbillon, weighing just 0.18 grams
2011: Pierre Jacques joins as CEO
2011: The DB28 wins the coveted
“Aiguille d’Or” at the GPHG
2018: The DB25 Starry Varius
Chronomètre Tourbillon wins the
Chronometry prize at the GPHG
2020: Celebrates the 10th anniversary of
the DB28 with the release of the DB28XP
CORUM ADMIRAL 42 AUTOMATIC
BRONZE GREEN
Reference Number: A395/04035
-395.201.53.OF17 AV65
Movement: Calibre CO 395 automatic
movement; hours and minutes; small
seconds; date; 42-hour power reserve
Case: 42mm; bronze; water-resistant
to 50m
Strap: Green alligator leather with triplefolding
clasp
Price: USD4,700
CORUM HERITAGE ARTISAN COIN
WATCH
Reference Number: CO82/03956 -
082.647.41/001 MU29
Movement: Calibre CO 082 automatic
movement; hours and minutes
Case: 43mm; silver PVD treatment
Strap: Black alligator leather with triplefolding
clasp
Price: USD19,000
CORUM GOLDEN BRIDGE RECTANGLE
Reference Number: B113/04145
-113.050.55/OF02 OOOOR
Movement: CO 113 manual-winding
movement; hours and minutes; 40-hour
power reserve
Case: 29.50mm x 42.20mm;
18K rose gold
Strap: Brown alligator leather with
triple-folding clasp
Price: USD35,000
DE BETHUNE DB28XP
Reference number: DB28XPTIS1
Movement: Manual-winding DB2115V6;
hours, minutes; tourbillon; six-day power
reserve
Case and dial: 43mm; titanium;
“Microlight” case-middle; titanium dial
base with “Microlight” decoration
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: CHF72,000
DE BETHUNE DB28 KIND OF BLUE
TOURBILLON MILKY WAY
Movement: Manual-winding DB2019;
hours, minutes; power-reserve indicator;
ultra-light 30-second tourbillon; 120-hour
power reserve
Case and dial: 42.6mm; blued titanium;
star-studded sky on blued titanium dial
with laser beam micro-milled Milky Way
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: Available on request
Limited edition of 10 pieces.
DE BETHUNE DB25 STARRY VARIUS
CHRONOMÈTRE TOURBILLON
Movement: Manual-winding DB2005,
hours, minutes; central jumping seconds;
tourbillon; 96-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 42mm; titanium; starstudded
sky on blued titanium dial with
laser beam micro-milled Milky Way
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: CHF190,000
Limited edition of 20 pieces.
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Dior
It would be too easy to assume that when a fashion house shows an interest in
watchmaking, they must be making fashion watches. This is simply untrue for
so many couture brands, and Dior is no exception. At Dior, the same exacting
care and attention it gives to its haute couture is similarly given to its highend
timepieces. Each complication and design is well thought-out to echo the
designs of Monsieur Christian Dior.
The first watch design by Dior’s Victoire de Castellane is the La D de Dior,
which was sans indices and date, and focused on pure design codes. Later came
the Chiffre Rouge for men, and the spectacular launch of the Dior Christal —
designed by its then creative director, John Galliano.
But there’s no doubt that it’s the Dior Grand Bal that has captured our
attentions today. In a genius move, Dior developed the “Dior Inversé 11 1/2”
caliber, which brings the oscillating weight to the front of the dial, perfectly
mimicking the swirl of a ball gown on the dance floor. Decorated with satin, faille
and taffeta, adorned with gold threads, silk, feathers, gems, and even scarab beetle
elytra, the Grand Bal collection is the pinnacle of what can happen when fashion
and watchmaking meet, and the symbol of what Dior watchmaking is all about.
TIMELINE
1968: First foray into watchmaking with a
collection of women’s watches made
with Bulova
1975: Launch of the Black Moon
2001: New manufacture, Les Ateliers
Horlogers Dior SA in La Chaux-de-Fonds
is established
2003: La D de Dior, first watch designed
by Victoire de Castellane, is launched
2004: The first men’s watch from Dior,
the Chiffre Rouge, is launched
2005: The Dior Christal is born — a
creation by its then creative director,
John Galliano
2011: Debut of the Grand Bal Collection
GRAND SOIR PLISSÉ PRÉCIEUX
Ref: CD13357X1001
Movement: Elite automatic movement by
Zenith; hours, minutes, oscillating weight
with pink gold rippled effect
Case and dial: 18K pink gold with
diamonds; sun-brushed white gold dial
with diamonds in devoré snow-setting and
pleated detail; water-resistant to 50m
Strap: Grey satin, extra black alligator
strap
Price: On request, limited to 88 pieces
DIOR GRAND BAL MASQUE NO. 1
Ref: CD153B6X1003
Movement: Automatic “Dior Inversé 11
1/2” caliber; oscillating weight adorned
with gems and feathers; hours, minutes;
42-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 18K white gold with
diamonds; polished yellow gold dial;
water-resistant to 50m
Strap: Embossed blue satin
Price: On request, unique-piece
DIOR GRAND BAL MASQUE NO. 11
Ref: CD153B6X1013
Movement: Elite automatic movement by
Zenith; hours, minutes, oscillating weight
with pink gold rippled effect
Case and dial: 18K pink gold with
diamonds; sun-brushed white gold dial
with diamonds in devoré snow-setting and
pleated detail; water-resistant to 50m
Strap: Grey satin, extra black alligator
strap
Price: On request, limited to 88 pieces
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Ferdinand Berthoud
Franck Muller
Ferdinand Berthoud the watchmaker may be somewhat little known compared
to Abraham-Louis Breguet or George Daniels, but his is a name that is
integral in the story of naval chronometers. A prolific writer, Berthoud
wrote numerous essays and treaties, and had ambitions to open an academy. But
Ferdinand Berthoud as a brand lay inactive for many years between 1876 and
the 21st century, and it is truly thanks to the thoughtfulness and genius of Karl-
Friedrich Scheufele and the Chopard Group that the brand is revived today in a
manner that is faithful to its past DNA. In launching Ferdinand Berthoud in the
21st century, the Scheufele family’s wish was not to recreate the same clocks and
chronometers of old, but to reimagine Ferdinand Berthoud as a watchmaker today,
and the watches that he would make today.
The first watch that was launched was the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB1,
with a distinct design and an even more intriguing movement. With an octagonal case
and a round dial, the watch design is inspired by 18th-century marine chronometers
that had a round drum-like brass case gimballed to a mahogany box to ensure that
the movement remained horizontal regardless of the ship’s movements. The unusual
movement, calibre FB-T.FX, showcases a pillar construction and features a fuséeand-chain
constant-force system, feeler-and-cone power-reserve mechanism and
a tourbillon with central seconds. In the few short years since its rebirth, Ferdinand
Berthoud has very quickly achieved acclaim, with the brand winning the “Aiguille
d’Or” Grand Prix in 2016 and 2019. In 2020, celebrating the 250th anniversary of
the Marine Clock No. 6 that inspired the aesthetics of today’s Ferdinand Berthoud,
the brand launched the new Chronomètre FB 2RE, combining the fusée-and-chain
transmission with a one-second remontoir d’égalité mechanism.
TIMELINE
1727: Birth of Ferdinand Berthoud in
Plancemont-sur-Couvet, Switzerland
1745: MovestoParistostudy
clockmaking and horology
1752: Presents a longcase equation clock
to the Royal Academy of Sciences in Paris
1753: Pronounced Master Horologist by
theFrenchKingLouisXV
1770: Awarded title of “Clockmaker and
Mechanic by appointment to the French
King and Navy”
1777: Marine clock M.M. No. 6 is
created, the inspiration behind the FB1 in
the 21st century
1876: The brand becomes inactive
2006: Karl-Friedrich Scheufele learns
about the brand
2015: Chopard Group relaunches
Ferdinand Berthoud and unveils the
Chronomètre FB1
2016: Wins “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix for
the FB1
This year, once again, the Vanguard collection is
responsible for showing the creativity of Franck Muller
through references that demonstrate the aesthetic
values of the young house located in the peaceful Genthod, due
north from Geneva. These three Vanguard watches, similar
as they are, appeal to very different tastes; each in its own way
exemplifies the versatility of the Vanguard concept, which
enables such distinctive values and stories to be communicated.
Crazy Hours is possibly the complication that most
identifies and communicates Franck Muller’s savoir-faire,
thanks to its exceptional mechanics with jumping hours of
instantaneous and seemingly random translation. This charming
concept was chosen by Rolls-Royce Geneva, the only official
distributor of the English brand in the French-speaking part of
Switzerland, for a new watch that visually matches the Wraith
Crazy Numbers, a superlative Gran Turismo in black and blue
prepared by the Bespoke Programme customization area of the
Crewe brand.
One of the best examples of the tasteful and highly refined
possibilities of the Vanguard Racing series is the special-edition
Rally Maya 2020, created by Franck Muller to celebrate the
increasingly recognized classic car race held in Mexico. This
year, Crazy Hours took the leading role for this watch that offers
details alluding to the race and the Mayan culture — such as
the numeral “8“ in the shape of both a snake and the symbol
of infinity— that beautifully exemplifies the social and tourist
concept of regularity competition.
The Vanguard confirms the many possibilities of its Cintrée
Curvex case, with the attractive Skeleton Swiss Limited Edition
presented in a titanium case with a polished finish, covered
by a layer of white enamel, and accompanied by an alligator
strap whose red stitching is masterfully coordinated with the
impeccable geometry of the skeletonized movement and its red
anodized aluminium bridges.
CHRONOMÈTRE FB 2RE.1
Movement: Manual-winding FB-RE.FC;
hours, minutes and seconds; COSCcertified;
fusée-and-chain transmission;
remontoir d’égalité; power-reserve
indicator; 50-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 18K fairmined white gold;
44mm; split-level dial in white grand-feu
enamel; water resistant to 30m
Strap: Leather with gold pin buckle
Price: On request; numbered and limited
to 10 pieces
CHRONOMÈTRE FB 2RE.2
Movement: Manual-winding FB-RE.FC;
hours, minutes and seconds; COSCcertified;
fusée-and-chain transmission;
remontoir d’égalité; power-reserve
indicator; 50-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 18K fairmined rose gold;
44mm; split-level dial in black grand feu
enamel; water resistant to 30m
Strap: Leather with gold pin buckle
Price: On request; numbered and limited
to 10 pieces
CRAZY BLACK BADGE
Movement: Self-winding caliber FM
2800 CH R; jumping hours, minutes and
seconds; 42-hour power reserve
Case: 44mm x 53.7mm; steel in PVD
finishing; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: On request
VANGUARD RACING CRAZY HOURS
RALLY MAYA LIMITED EDITION 2020
Reference Number: V45CHRCGRALLY
MAYA AC.BL
Movement: Self-winding caliber FM
2800 CH R; jumping hours, minutes and
seconds; 42-hour power reserve
Case: 44mm x 53.7mm; steel; waterresistant
to 30m
Strap: Calf leather and rubber
Price: USD16,000; limited edition of 25
pieces
VANGUARD SKELETON
Reference Number: V 45 S6 SQT BC (ER)
Movement: Manual-winding caliber
FM 1740-VS; hours and minutes; small
seconds; seven-day power reserve
Case: 44mm x 53.7mm; titanium with
enamel coating; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: CHF 35,800; limited edition of 50
pieces
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Frederique Constant
Girard-Perregaux
This year has been overwhelming for all of us and, of
course, the watch industry was violently shaken by the
reduction in sales volumes. Independent brands and
large consortiums alike were subjected to the harsh reality,
which caused them to establish action plans emerging from
conservative and guarded strategies. Yet, there are numerous
stories of brands that continued to move forward with restraint
but assertiveness, with a view to fighting for their prominent
position in the industry.
Frederique Constant knows about challenges, for it has
been its perseverance, preservation of watchmaking values,
and respect for the business that have established it in a firm,
dignified and well-recognized position, anchored by the
philosophy of “accessible luxury.”
In 2012, Frederique Constant presented its first Worldtimer,
and the watch has been a major player in its sales ever since.
This year, the company presents a limited version of the Classic
Worldtimer Manufacture in an 18K pink-gold case. The dial
design, with elements superimposed in gray, red and blue, is
legible and attractive. It indicates 24 timezones and the day and
night on the globe. The self-winding caliber FC-718 is fully
adjustable through the crown.
Another jewel of FC and its manufacture is the Flyback
Chronograph with the caliber FC-760. In 2017 the first
version of the attractive three-register timekeeper was
presented in the favorite 3-6-9 arrangement in a very classic
aesthetic. This year, a slightly more sporty variant in polished
steel and rose-gold plating has been added, alongside a few
attractive color schemes.
Rounding out FC’s smart offering — pun not intended —
is the new Vitality series of connected watches that combine
discreet style with the functionality that has brought the
house’s Horological Smartwatches to the forefront
since 2015.
The origins of Girard-Perregaux
date back to 1791, with roots in
Geneva, ultimately advancing to
La Chaux-de-Fonds. With over 100
patents currently held by the maison,
Girard-Perregaux is best known for
the architecturally impressive Bridges
collection, groundbreaking innovations
like the Constant Escapement, the
glittering Cat’s Eye for ladies, and the
recent resurrection of the ’70s-era stylish
and sporty Laureato line. Light, elements
and space provide a new direction for
the latest introductions, the transparent
Quasar and the Laureato Absolute Light,
the Carbon Glass Laureato Absolute
Rock, and night-sky-inspired blue and
black aventurine 1966 Orion Trilogy.
1966 ORION TRILOGY
Ref: 49555-52-431-BB4A (pink gold)
Movement: Self-winding GP03300-
0132/0139; hours, minutes, seconds;
date; 46-hour power reserve
Case: 40mm; pink gold
Strap: Hand-patinated blue alligator
Price: USD17,800
LAUREATO ABSOLUTE LIGHT
Ref: 81071-43-231-FB6A
Movement: Self-winding GP01800-
1143; hours, minutes; small seconds;
54-hour power reserve
Case: 44mm; sapphire and titanium;
water resistant to 30m
Strap: Black rubber
Price: USD84,700; limited to 88 pieces
CLASSIC WORLDTIMER
MANUFACTURE
Reference Number: FC-718NRWM4H9
Movement: Self-winding caliber FC-
718; hours, minutes, seconds; date;
worldtimer; 38-hour power reserve
Case: 42mm; polished 18K rose gold;
water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Navy blue alligator leather with
off-white stitches
Price: USD14,995; limited edition of
88 pieces
FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH
MANUFACTURE
Reference Number: FC-760V4H4
Movement: Self-winding caliber
FC-760; hours, minutes; subsidiary
seconds; chronograph; date; 38-hour
power reserve
Case: 42mm; rose-gold-plated polished
and satined stainless steel; waterresistant
to 50m
Strap: Brown alligator leather
Price: USD4,595
VITALITY SMARTWATCH
Reference Number: FC-287S5B6
Movement: Quartz caliber FC-287;
smartphone-connected; hours, minutes;
rechargeable battery with 11-day
operating time
Case: 42mm; polished stainless steel;
water-resistant to 50m
Strap: Black rubber
Price: USD1,000 up
LAUREATO ABSOLUTE PASSION
Ref: 81060-21-692-FH6A
Movement: Self-winding GP03300-
1058; hours, minutes, seconds; date;
chronograph; 46-hour power reserve
Case: 44mm; titanium with PVD
treatment; water-resistant to 300m
Strap: Rubber with red fabric effect
Price: USD13,400; limited to 50 pieces
QUASAR AZUL
Ref: 99295-43-002-UA2A
Movement: Self-winding GP09400;
tourbillon; hours, minutes; tourbillon;
60-hour power reserve
Case: 46mm; sapphire; water-resistant
to 30m
Strap: Anthracite fabric strap
Price: USD274,000; limited to 8 pieces
QUASAR LIGHT
Ref: 99295-43-001-BA6A
Movement: Self-winding GP09400-
1128; tourbillon, hours, minutes;
tourbillon; 60-hour power reserve
Case: 36mm; sapphire; water resistant
to 30m
Strap: Grey fabric with a metallic effect
Price: USD294,000; limited to 18 pieces
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Time & Place
Glashütte Original lives up to its name.
Words Stephen Watson
The town of Glashütte is not a large place.
Nestled among bucolic rolling hills, flanked
by mighty age-old ore mountains, the town’s
population is stated around 6,800. It feels like less.
There is a cafe and a restaurant, a museum, a church,
no hotels. Twenty miles to the north, the city of
Dresden in “Silicon Saxony” is churning out millions
of microprocessors. In Glashütte, they are making
fine mechanical timepieces.
“The men and women of Glashütte are
like the rubies in a movement; steadfast,
resilient, and precious.”
The Glashütte
Original Senator
Chronometer
Tourbillon with
flying tourbillon
with a stop-second
mechanism, zero
reset, and minute
detent ensuring
the watch stays
precisely in sync.
Watchmaking in this region is distinctive, not
least because of its unique history. Glashütte, part
of the former Kingdom of Saxony, was once a mining
town. During the mid-19th century, faced with the
prospect of a declining industry, local watchmakers
convinced the King to invest in an independent Saxon
watch industry as a new future. In just a few years, the
town of Glashütte reinvented itself. Soon, the region’s
technical innovations were so renowned as to be
copied by some neighboring Swiss watchmakers. So
the Saxons began adding the inscription “Original”
to their products to distinguish authentic Glashütte
timepieces from mere copies.
Today, that moniker lives on as an awardwinning
company. Remerging after the Cold War to
international recognition, the Glashütte Original
Manufactory remains deeply connected to the Saxon
legacy of craftsmanship and precision engineering,
maintaining a vast corporate archive from before
German reunification. In these troves is the story of
the town, where specialist engineers and tradesmen
pivoted to horology, relying on ingenuity and burning
an independent streak. Residents were funneled
into apprenticeship programs, their livelihoods
dependent on mastering a new craft. When advanced
watchmaking tools could not be easily acquired, those
in Glashütte simply built their own.
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This forward-looking approach and attention to detail is
a hallmark of modern-day operations at Glashütte Original’s
Manufactory. Even the smallest components still necessitate
the utmost care; toolmakers and prototype builders are rarely
idle. Every step along the way gets documented, examined via
microscope or projection, studied until perfected. That’s to say
nothing of the rigorous testing and evaluation. Only after this
intense technical scrutiny does the human hand begin to put the
movement together, undertaking the final assembly.
So it’s hardly surprising that Glashütte Original’s
in-house movements often land at the absolute top
end of Haute Horlogerie. Consider, for example, the
ingenious new Senator Chronometer Tourbillon, a
certified chronometer that undergoes 15 days of testing
in various positions and temperatures. Here, for the
first time, a flying tourbillon is combined with a minute
detent second-stop and reset mechanism. The oscillation
of the tourbillon, as always, counteracts the effects of
gravity on performance; since the second hand is part of
the tourbillon cage, it also stops immediately. Glashütte
Original challenged its watchmakers to find a way to halt the
spinning tourbillon while in full motion, and they succeeded.
Two patents are in the works for this construction.
The resulting complication pauses the time display and
resets the second display to zero while the crown is out,
advancing the minute hand synchronously, allowing the
time to be set with exacting precision. Meanwhile, a silicon
“The tourbillon attracts attention,
but its regular, pulsing rhythm
frees the eye to roam from one
function to the next.”
balance spring fortifies the movement against magnetism and
fluctuation, and shock protection guards both sides of the flying
tourbillon. When fully wound, the power reserve (displayed at
9 o’clock) runs for a full 70 hours. These functions are driven
by the manual wind Calibre 58-05, developed in-house by
Glashütte Original.
Outside, the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon draws on
traditional Saxon design codes to accompany the mechanical
complexity. With its multidimensional appearance, the dial
is visually halved to provide a unique glimpse into the watch’s
layered workings. The graphically sharp, Glashütte-striped
finishing on the upper half contrasts with the elaborate, ornate
hand engravings on the movement below. The galvanic blue
face, color-matched to various exposed blued screws on the
movement, floats gloriously above it all.
“Freedom to choose the layout of the watch dial is limited by the
mechanics of the movement, which is why we always have to keep the
dial in mind when designing a new movement.”
This page
The manually wound
Calibre 58-05,
developed by Glashütte
Original. Featuring a
refined second-stop
and reset mechanism,
which stops the time
display while the
crown is out, resets the
second display to zero
and keeps it there.
Opposite
Effortlessly crossing
borders and time
zones, the easy
to read Senator
Cosmopolite is ready
to travel the world.
With a platinum case, the
Senator Chronometer Tourbillon is
limited to 25 pieces. It’s certainly a
watch of occasion. Those aficionados
who appreciate the artistry but are
looking for increased everyday mileage
can turn to the Senator Cosmopolite,
now offered with a rich midnightblue
dial. Its overall design remains
conservative while prioritizing legibility and
functionality, adapting the classic Glashütte
Original codes to the age of air travel.
An internal time zone ring allows the watch to be set
to all 35 of the world’s time zones, using the official IATA
airport codes to set Daylight Savings Time and Standard
Time. Day/Night indicators for home and destination
time are offered with a simple look. The dial at the 12
o’clock position provides the
home time and power reserve;
small seconds are displayed at
six o’clock; the date at four. Large
sword style hands and luminescent
indices provide added clarity.
Sized at 44 mm, the Senator
Cosmopolite’s stainless steel case houses
Calibre 89-02, a 63-jewel automatic
featuring one of Glashütte Original’s
greatest contributions to watchmaking:
the double swan-neck fine adjustment. It’s all in the service
of precision, providing a robust 72 hour power reserve that
allows for two time zones to be displayed simultaneously,
removing the headache of calculating time differences while
jet-lagged. When the world gets back to traveling once again,
the Senator Cosmopolite will certainly be ready.
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If the Senator pieces are a love ballad to Saxon history, the
Pano lineup is something like a remix. This collection extends
the romance of German watchmaking further, introducing
asymmetrical design cues for maximum personality points. The
PanoMaticLunar is steeped in character, presenting a more
contemporary take on Glashütte Original’s artistic flourishes.
Exquisite in-house dial colors (which include a deep galvanized
gray, a rich crème, and a vibrant navy blue) accompany a
beautiful recessed moon phase indicator.
The movement of light on red gold flatters the
PanoMaticLunar case shape. On the back, sapphire crystal allows
for viewing of the automatic Calibre 90-02, with its numerous
hand-beveled and engraved parts, working in unison to generate
a stout 42-hour power reserve. For those seeking a more everyday
classic, the PanoMatic Lunar is also offered in stainless steel,
demonstrating a versatile and contemporary approach toward
design within this collection.
With an unmistakably contemporary look, it’s sure to be
a hit with aesthetic-minded enthusiasts who will find endless
appeal in the PanoMaticLunar’s signature off-centered dial
configuration. Hours, minutes, and small seconds are shifted to
the left; the Panorama Date window and moon phase indicator
are on the right. The arrangement provides a considerable
amount of information at a glance: its lack of clutter allows the
eye to easily take in all functions, or quickly train over a specific
quadrant of the dial to reference the desired reading. Put
simply, it’s a masterclass in visual balance.
To achieve the look, Glashütte Original worked from
the Golden Ratio. This mathematical design principle—
commonly found in nature, and used for centuries in art and
architecture—determines the ideal relationship of proportions.
On the Pano, the hour and minute hands are strategically
placed to establish and enforce this spatial balance. It is, quite
literally, a perfect spatial exercise.
The ladies’ automatic
PanoMatic Luna
limited-edition
features small
seconds, second
stop, Panorama
date, off-center hour
and minutes, and
a charming moon
phase with tiny hearts
standing in for stars.
“What makes the watch perfect: a very complicated mechanism made simple in a
very visually pleasing manner, and easily understood by the wearer”
The off-center
appealofthe
galvanic blue
dial of the
PanoMaticLunar lies
in the mathematical
attractions of the
“golden ratio.”
These age-old design tenants are a recurring
theme across the Manufactory’s portfolio. Glashütte
Original knew the Golden Ratio, often seen in the
plant world, evoking a sense of harmony and balance,
would be especially effective when applied to ladies
watches. The challenge? Shrinking the asymmetry
down to size.
The PanoMatic Luna version measures just over
39mm, a slight reduction from the PanoMaticLunar,
but maintains divine proportions of the display: hour,
minutes, and small seconds on the left, moon phase
and date to the right. Backed by the 4Hz, 47-jewel
Calibre 90-12 movement, the PanoMatic Luna wears
its heart on its sleeve, with a mother of pearl dial and
a polished steel case, surrounded by 64 brilliantcut
diamonds, all hanging on a dark purple strap.
The winding crown’s oversized, 3mm diamond adds
a touch of old-school glamour. And speaking of
throwbacks…
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Glashütte Original’s Vintage collection, which encompasses
the aptly-named Sixties and Seventies models, might just be
the pinnacle of irrepressible retro-cool. The pieces feature
imaginative case shapes inspired by fashion, music, and
architecture from decades where style disruption made waves.
They’re matched to unusual dial colors and finishes, another
hallmark of the Manufactory, often in limited-edition runs that
sell out quickly.
In previous years, the stainless steel Sixties has been
released with unique silver, black, dark blue, green, and orange
faces. For 2020, a pair of crisp new Sixties variations join the
line, offering a fresh glacier-blue dégradé dial. These special
looks are created by Glashütte Original’s dial manufactory in
Pforzheim, the German mecca of fine jewelry. A dial can take up
to 75 steps to complete, including up to six quality-control tests
along the way.
To achieve an extraordinary dégradé effect, the blank watch
faces are first given a sunray finish. They’re then pressed into a
domed shape and coated with galvanic nickel. Next comes the
hand-application of dark blue lacquer, at the edge. Finally, the
lighter glacier-blue lacquer, also applied by hand, is sprayed
over the entire dial. This renders each dial unique, ensuring a
particular gradient and luminous glow.
“The future interplay of all components first
demands the interplay of all participants,
every one of whom becomes a cog to transfer the
know-how from one department to the next.”
That’s not to say function has been sacrificed at the altar
of form. The glacier-blue Sixties is available as a three-hand,
time-only model or a two-bank chronograph; both house inhouse
Glashütte Original movements (the Calibre 39-52 and
Calibre 39-34, respectively). Both also boast a 40-hour power
reserve and are water-resistant to 3 bar, though collectors
are sure to think twice before exposing this limited edition’s
handsome nubuck calfskin strap to oceanic conquest.
The SeaQ Panorama
Date mixes red gold
with steel for a serious
dive watch that’s
not afraid of some
sporty yet glamorous
sophistication.
The shimmering
cloud-like glacier
blue dial of the
vintage collections
Sixties takes its
place as this year’s
annual special
edition for 2020.
For that sort of adventure, they’ll want Glashütte Original’s
latest collection, the Spezialist. This sporty new line came out
swinging last year, inspired by the historic Spezimatic Type RP TS
200 developed 50 years prior in Glashütte for scuba diving. This
year, a new version of the SeaQ Panorama Date diver’s watch
makes its appearance in the still-young collection, adding the
unexpected element of red gold trimmings to a stainless steel case.
This piece can also be had in full red gold, a true luxe spin on the
classic diver. Think of it as the ultimate timepiece for a getaway to
Tulum, St. Bart’s, French Riviera, or the Greek Islands.
No matter where you are, the 43.2 mm case is sure to
be noticed. On the backside, sapphire crystal reveals all of
the Calibre 36-13’s bells and whistles—beautifully finished
movement, beveled edges, polished Glashütte stripe, and a
21-carat gold oscillation weight. All this refinement doesn’t
hinder the SeaQ Panorama Date’s diving credentials. Certified
by both the German Institute for Standardization (DIN 8306)
and International Organization for Standardization (ISO
6425), the watch is water-resistant up to roughly 300 meters
and packs a power reserve of 100 hours. This year’s models are
introduced in a distinguished mix of materials—either a black
dial encased in red gold, or grey dial with a bi-color case that
merges stainless steel and red gold. A waterproof grey nylon
mesh strap or black rubber strap complements either look.
It also speaks to the Glashütte Original mindset. The
designers continue to dream, the watchmakers bring their
technical know-how; shortcuts are never allowed and parity is
taboo. Who says the Glashütte art of watchmaking can’t break
new ground in tourbillion technology, develop a sophisticated
asymmetrical design language, delve into retro-glam styling,
and reimagine underwater adventure using precious metals, all
at the same time?
This is independent thought and creative action, an example
of what sets German timepieces apart from all others. Nearly
two centuries after the Saxons began making watches, the
Glashütte Original Manufactory embodies the spirit of the
region. Something traditional, something different. But always
something very, very special.
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2020: The Colour of Time
2020: The Color
of Time
The year 2020 will be immortalized in our minds primarily due to a global pandemic that locked down
the entire globe in a vice-like grip of fear that can only be matched by the uncertainty of war. We
will all remember this year as a time of desperation, but also for the solidarity that comes from such
turmoil and the good that people did to support those less fortunate. All across the world, the symbol of hope
was the rainbow. It was a bright-colored beacon of positivity and appeared in windows, on T-shirts and on
coffee mugs. This symbol of hope, solidarity and gratitude glowed against the backdrop of chaos and fear.
And that’s the point of color; it can be used optimistically to change our moods, to brighten our minds and
cast a whole new perspective. This was well understood by Titian, whose incredible Venetian Renaissanceera
paintings were revered for his use of color. His signature flourishes were executed in the richest, purest
and most saturated hues possible, thus creating such beautiful realities, the like of which had never been
seen before. The impact of color isn’t lost on the watch industry either and 2020 has been awash with a
kaleidoscope of hues that cut through the gloom and offer an optimistic glimpse of happier times.
Patek Philippe 5370P-011 Split
Seconds Chronograph
This platinum chronograph continues
the epic tale of one of the most important
wristwatch chronograph families whose
vintage examples regularly command
a fortune at auction. This year, Patek
Philippe unveiled a platinum Split Seconds
Chronograph that is as aesthetically
stunning as it is a work of horological
mastery, thanks to its laterally coupled
rattrapante mechanism. Our founder Wei
Koh has already written extensively about
this watch, so here we’ll just wax lyrical
about its dial, which features a beautiful
hand-fired grand feu enamel finish in
blue, with wonderfully crisp and legible
white printing. And the icing on the cake is
the applied Breguet numerals, which are
inarguably the most desirable in the scope
of vintage chronographs and elegant dress
watches. And that blue? Simply stunning!
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight
“Navy Blue”
Tudor’s illustrious past as suppliers
of military wristwatches to some of
the largest navies in the world is well
established. To many collectors and fans
of the brand, the vintage blue snowflake
watches from the 1970s are the epitome
of vintage Tudor watches and so the
blue version of the Black Bay 58 was big
news. The Black Bay 58 is a watch that
is leading the way for gents watches to
be smaller and at 39mm it’s the perfect
alternative to the regular 41mm Black
Bay for the vintage connoisseur. The
2020 blue version is so much more
than just a new colorway, this watch is
a celebration of Tudors early big crown
dive watches, the blue watches from
the ‘70s and the house signature of the
snowflake hands. And the blue color that
they created for the dial was perfect!
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59
Chronograph
It has to be said that during its launch in 2019,
the Code 11.59 received a somewhat lukewarm
reception, but the second installment of the
saga is here and stronger than ever. This time,
it’s all about the dials — more specifically,
the colors of said dials. The vast majority of
criticism at launch was the way the dials had
been executed, as the cases and movements
were actually pretty awesome. Nobody
can argue with 2020’s facelift of the Code
11.59, which now boasts stunning dials that
have a smoked lacquer finish over sunburst
executions: “Refined Intensity” is a sunburst
burgundy; “Ocean Deep” reflects what it says
on the tin with a stunning run through every
possible shade of blue, from the blackest navy
to vibrant royal blue; “Uncompromisingly
Purple” is sultry and smoky and works
particularly well against AP’s choice of pinkgold
case. What a comeback from a line that
was living under a shadow but which can now
boast its own take on the rainbow!
Blancpain Bathyscaphe Mokarran
Limited Edition
Launched in 2013, the Bathyscaphe is
seen as the 21st-century descendant of
the iconic Fifty Fathoms, a watch launched
in 1953 and issued to elite combat divers
in the French Navy. The 2020 watch is
the latest in a series of limited editions
of Bathyscaphes, this one in partnership
with the Mokarran Protection Society.
The Mokarran Protection Society is based
in Rangiroa in French Polynesia and is
dedicated to studying and protecting the
habitats of the great hammerhead shark,
and USD 1,000 from the sale of each of
the limited run of 50 pieces will be donated
to this effort. What makes this 43.6mm
black ceramic watch really pop is the use
of vibrant “tropical green” for the dial and
bezel, a beautiful hue for the watch. And
one thing for for sure, due to the limited
run, any onlookers of this watch on a lucky
owner’s wrist will be green with envy.
Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis
Terrarum
In these times, what better way to remind
oneself of the importance of international
solidarity than by wearing a watch with
a globe on it? As 2020 is seemingly the
year of the blue dial, a welcome addition
to the fray is Montblanc’s Star Legacy
Orbis Terrarum. At Revolution, we’ve held
discussions about repurposing multitime-zone
watches during lockdown,
and there is no doubt that during this
prolonged period of daily Zoom, Google
Meet, Skype and WebX meetings, getting
a handle on what time it is across the time
zones that span the world, has never been
more relevant. Montblanc’s blue-dialed
watch is housed in a 43mm case with
stepped lugs and a very cool onion crown.
The textured map of the dial is beautifully
executed and gives the watch a new look
that is hard not to love.
Povey’s Vintage Pick — Rolex
Daytona reference 16516 with
unique lapis lazuli dial
I am a sucker for a Perpetual Daytona, and
so it was particularly exciting to learn that
Sotheby’s had a unique example with a
lapis lazuli dial for auction. Hard-stonedial
Daytonas are becoming ever more
popular with collectors, and this example
in stunning blue was a very important
discovery. This watch was only the secondever
platinum Zenith-era automatic
Daytona to surface, and the first-ever
Daytona to have a factory-produced lapis
lazuli dial. There have been Rolex Datejust
and Day-Date dials in lapis lazuli, but
never a Daytona (with the exception of
a prototype dial in a private collection).
And so it went under the hammer this
summer and fetched the record-breaking
price of approximately USD3.3 million,
the highlight of an auction season that
seemingly proved that the vintage watch
market was as strong as ever!
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Grand Seiko
When Grand Seiko became a separate manufacturer within the Seiko
Watch Company in 2017, they began to redefine their singularly
distinct identity with serious momentum. A 60th- anniversary year
in 2020 brought multiple celebratory collections — two artistic masterpieces,
a new Spring Drive movement, and new high-beat caliber. Special editions
abound, releasing stunning limited editions, keeping passionate collectors
constantly wanting more. With a stunning new headquarters in Shizukuishi,
Japan, and a global flagship in Paris, the cat is out of the bag for what was once a
well-kept insider secret by watch aficionados and collectors.
GRAND SEIKO HERITAGE
Reference Number: SBGD202
Movement: Calibre 9R01; hours,
minutes and seconds; stop seconds;
power-reserve display; 192-hour
power reserve
Case: 43mm; 18K rose gold; water
resistant to 100m
Strap: Crocodile leather; three-fold
clasp with push-button release
Price: USD42,000
GRAND SEIKO SPORT
Reference Number: SBGC223
Movement: Spring Drive 9R86; hours
and minutes; 24-hour hand (dualtime
display); calendar-linked time
difference adjustment function;
chronograph with 30-minute and 12-
hour counters; power-reserve indicator;
date; rotating bezel; stop seconds; 72-
hour power reserve
Case: 46.4mm; stainless-steel case with
ceramic bezel; water resistant t0 100m
Strap Hybrid titanium and ceramic
bracelet with triple-folding clasp
Price: USD14,800
TIMELINE
1960: Release of the first Grand Seiko
1967: The introduction of the 44GS
establishes the Grand Seiko style
1968: The 61GS introduces the first
Grand Seiko self-winding with a 10-beat
movement
1969: The 61GS V.F.A. super-highprecision
model delivers a monthly rate of
± one minute
1988: Introduction of the first Grand Seiko
quartz watch
1989: Introduction of the first Grand Seiko
quartz watch with 100m water resistance
1992: Introduction of the first Grand Seiko
quartz for women, with 10-second-a-year
accuracy
1998: The first new Grand Seiko
mechanical caliber in 20 years is
introduced, the 9S5
2002: The 9S56 Series introduces a
fourth-hand GMT function for the
first time
2004: The 9R6 adds the Spring Drive
calibre to Grand Seiko
2007: The Spring Drive 9R8 series
introduces a chronograph with vertical
clutch, column wheel, and GMT
indication
2009: Introduction of the 9S8 caliber, the
first new high-beat caliber for Grand Seiko
in 41 years
2010: The 9S65 series introduces a new
automatic caliber with a 72-hour
power reserve
2014: The caliber 9S86 combines highbeat
precision with a GMT function;
winner of the 2014 “Petit Aiguille” award
from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie
de Genève
2016: The first Grand Seiko with a fully
ceramic case; introduction of the Spring
Drive8Daypowerreserve—upto
192 hours
GRAND SEIKO HERITAGE
Reference Number: SBGH271
Movement: Automatic with manualwinding
capacity 9S85; hours, minutes
and seconds; date; stop seconds; 55-
hour power reserve
Case: 39mm; 18K white gold; waterresistant
to 100m
Strap: Stainless-steel bracelet; threefold
clasp with push-button release
Price: USD6,300
GRAND SEIKO ELEGANCE
Reference Number: SBGY002
Movement: Calibre 9R31; hours,
minutes and seconds; stop seconds;
72-hour power reserve
Case: 38.5mm; 18K yellow gold; splashresistant
Strap: Crocodile leather; three-fold
clasp with push-button release
Price: USD25,000
GRAND SEIKO SPORT
Reference number: SBGJ239
Movement: Calibre 9S86; hours and
minutes; 24-hour hand (dual time
display); calendar-linked time difference
adjustment function; date; rotating bezel;
stop seconds; 72-hour power reserve
Case: 42mm; stainless steel; waterresistant
to 200m
Strap: Crocodile leather; three-fold clasp
with push-button release
Price: USD6,600
GRAND SEIKO ELEGANCE
Reference Number: SBGW263
Movement: Mechanical manual-winding
calibre 9S64; hours, minutes and
seconds; stop seconds; 72-hour power
reserve
Case: 39mm; platinum case with 18K
yellow-gold caseback; splash-resistant
Strap: Crocodile leather; three-fold
clasp with push-button release
Price: USD97,000; limited to 20 pieces
GRAND SEIKO ELEGANCE
Reference number: SBGK009
Movement: Calibre 9S63; hours and
minutes; small seconds; stop seconds;
power-reserve display; 72-hour power
reserve
Case: 39mm; stainless steel;
splash-resistant
Strap: Stainless-steel bracelet; threefold
clasp with push-button release
Price: USD7,700
60TH ANNIVERSARY MECHANICAL HI-
BEAT 36000 80 HOURS
Reference Number: SLGH002
Movement: Automatic with manualwinding
capacity 9SAS; hours, minutes
and seconds; date; stop-seconds; 80-
hour power reserve
Case: 40mm; 18K yellow gold; waterresistant
to 100m
Strap: Crocodile leather; three-fold
clasp with push-button release
Price: USD43,000; limited to 100 pieces
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Greubel Forsey
Greubel Forsey, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, is a comparatively young
brand, founded by Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey in 2004. And
while the brand may not have the decades or centuries of provenance
of some others, that’s not to say that founders lack experience — the pair had
worked together at the famed high-complication makers Renaud & Papi
since 1992.
A boutique atelier, Greubel Forsey produces a select number of exceptionally
high-quality watches in its pursuit of perfection in both the craft and the art of
watchmaking. The brand is renowned for its tourbillons — particularly the Double
Tourbillon 30 — a complex arrangement of a 60-second tourbillon nested inside
a four-minute tourbillon. The 60-second tourbillon runs at a 30-degree angle.
This helps to improve the overall timekeeping accuracy of the tourbillon. One
might thus be forgiven for expecting the watches of Greubel Forsey to be overly
technical — almost scientific — and inaccessible instruments, even though this is
not the case in reality.
Greubel Forsey’s creations blur the lines between watch and art. The brand’s
focus on achieving perfection of finish and construction is clear, and nowhere
is this more evident than in the Hand Made 1 — a watch made almost entirely by
hand, on hand-operated tools. Each watch requires some 6,000 hours (or three
years) of labour to complete; like everything that Greubel Forsey creates, it is a
painstaking and logical expression of watchmaking art.
TIMELINE
2004: Robert Greubel and Stephen
Forsey launch Greubel Forsey
2004: Greubal Forsey releases the
Double Tourbillon 30°
2009: GreubelForsey’snewAtelier
brings all of the brand’s watchmaking
under one roof
2012: Greubel Forsey presents the
Quadruple Tourbillon
2012: Greubel Forsey presents its
first non-tourbillon model, the Double
Balancier 35°
2012: Greubel Forsey releases the
Tourbillon 24 Secondes
2015: Greubel Forsey wins the Aiguille
d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de
Genève for the Tourbillon 24 Secondes
Vision in white gold
2019: Greubel Forsey releases the GMT
Sport
GREUBEL FORSEY QP À ÉQUATION IN
RED GOLD
Movement: Manual-winding movement
with 24-second tourbillon; 24-hour
indicator; power-reserve indicator;
perpetual calendar with disc-based
display; mode-selector display; year;
equation of time on reverse
Case and dial: 5N red gold; 43.5mm x
16mm, chocolate brown dial
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: CHF670,000
GREUBEL FORSEY HAND MADE 1
Movement: Manual-winding Caliber
Hand Made 1 with one-minute tourbillon
Case: White gold, 43.5mm by 13.5mm
Strap: Leather
Price: On request
GREUBEL FORSEY GMT SPORT
Movement: Manual-winding movement
with 24-second, 25-degree inclined
tourbillon; GMT; rotating globe with
universal time and day-and-night;
universal time
Case: Titanium with curved synthetic
sapphire crystal; three-dimensional,
variable-geometry shaped bezel with
raised engraved text; 45mm diameter,
15.7mm height; water resistant to 100m
Strap: Rubber
Price: CHF480,000
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Gucci
Like every surprising element creative director Alessandro
Michele brings to Gucci, watches are no mere licensed
afterthought. The Gucci timepiece collection presents
the same wit, charm and irreverence as seen in the rest of the
Gucci universe. The skateboard-inspired Grip continues to
evolve with unexpected details, including a special-edition
Mickey Mouse lounging on its distinctive cushion-shaped dial.
News for 2020 has brought a 40mm limited-edition Gucci
Dive watch with ties to FNATIC, adding gamers to the long list
of groundbreaking Gucci brand ambassadors.
TIMELINE
1921: Guccio Gucci opens his first store in Florence
1953: FIrst Gucci store opens in New York, the Gucci
horse-bit loafer is created
1961: GG logo is first used for accessories and clothing
1981: Ready-to-wear is shown for the first time
2000: Gucci becomes part of Kering
2011: Gucci celebrates its 90th anniversary
2019: Gucci ranks as one of the top brands in the world
under the leadership of Alessandro Michele
GUCCI GRIP CHRONOGRAPH (BLACK
DIAL)
Reference Number: Style 609924 I16X0
8489 - YA157301
Movement: Ronda quartz movement,
two windows indicating the hour and
minute and chronograph function
Case: 40mm; stainless steel case
Strap: Black rubber with interlocking Gs
Price: USD1,650
GUCCI GRIP IN GREY PVD
Reference Number: Style 632061 I8600
1000 - YA157429
Movement: Ronda 1006 quartz
movement; three black discs indicating
the hours, minutes and date
Case: 38mm; grey PVD
Strap: Grey PVD bracelet with
Interlocking Gs
Price: USD1,800
G-TIMELESS SLIM (BLACK SUNRAY
DIAL)
Reference Number: Style 632123 I1600
1402 - YA1265023
Movement: ETA F06.101 quartz
movement; hours and minutes; bee as
seconds hand
Case: 36mm; stainless steel
Strap: Nine-link steel bracelet
Price: USD1,300
FNATIC X GUCCI LIMITED EDITION
DIVE WATCH
Reference Number: Style 642921 I16X0
8489 - YA136333
Movement: ETAF06.111quartz
movement; hours, minutes and seconds;
rotating bezel
Case: 40mm; stainless steel
Strap: Black rubber
Price: USD1,620
GUCCI X DISNEY GRIP WATCH IN
YELLOW GOLD
Reference Number: Style 610019 I86A0
9894 - YA157420
Movement: Ronda quartz movement;
two windows indicating hours and
minutes
Case: 35mm; yellow-gold PVD case with
Mickey Mouse print
Strap: GG Supreme canvas strap
Price: USD1,650
GUCCI GRIP CHRONOGRAPH (SILVER
DIAL)
Reference Number: Style 610033 I1600
1108 - YA157302
Movement: Ronda quartz movement,
two windows indicating the hour and
minute and chronograph function
Case: 40mm; stainless steel
Strap: Stainless-steel bracelet
Price: USD1,800
G-TIMELESS SLIM (PINK LACQUERED
DIAL)
Reference Number: Style 632111 I18W0
8761 - YA1265017
Movement: ETA F04.105 quartz
movement; hours and minutes; bee as
seconds hand
Case: 29mm; stainless steel
Strap: Red lizard
Price: USD1,300
G-TIMELESS SLIM (GOLD SUNRAY
DIAL)
Reference Number: Style 632119 I8600
9812 - YA1265021
Movement: ETA F04.105 quartz
movement; hours and minutes; bee as
seconds hand
Case: 29mm; gold PVD
Strap: Nine-link yellow-gold PVD
bracelet
Price: USD1,300
G-TIMELESS SLIM (GOLD SUNRAY
DIAL)
Reference Number: Style 632120 I86A0
9730 - YA1265022
Movement: ETA F04.105 quartz
movement; hours and minutes; bee as
seconds hand
Case: 29mm; gold PVD
Strap: Taupe leather
Price: USD1,300
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H.Moser&Cie
Hamilton
Born in Schaffhausen, Switzerland, Heinrich Moser established H. Moser & Cie in
St. Petersburg in 1828, where his reputation grew as an artisanal watchmaker with
an eye for quality and elegance. By the 1840s, Moser was making watches for the
imperial court, and his movements were used in the ornate clocks by Peter Carl Fabergé.
The brand was revived under family-owned group MELB Holding in 2012 and enters
a new era with the dynamic Edouard Meylan at the helm. Today, Moser counts as one
of the most interesting and significant contemporary independent watch brands with
its roots in traditional haute horology. It has the know-how to create some of the best
looking fumé dials and the business acumen to create timepieces like the Swiss Alps
watch and acquire the rights to use Vantablack. And while you may recall the brand’s
various gimmicks, including the Swiss cheese watch and the Nature watch that boldly
forced us to confront the Swiss watchmaking industry in a new light, it’s this energy and
entrepreneurialism that make the brand so exciting.
Earlier this year, the brand launched the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph, its first
foray into the luxury steel sports watch field that is both appealing and refreshing. And
to celebrate both their 15th anniversaries, Moser and MB&F announced their joint
partnership for two sets of limited-edition models that blend both brands’ technical and
aesthetic elements. In the midst of a pandemic, this level of camaraderie and creativity is
truly heartwarming — and the watches are pretty amazing too, of course.
TIMELINE
1828: Heinrich Moser sets off to St.
Petersburg to establish H. Moser
&Cie
1864: Moser returns to Schaffhausen
and transforms the town into the
center of watchmaking
1917: Moser’s operations in Russia
is expropriated in the October
Revolution
2005: Dormant for years, the brand is
revived by a group of entrepreneurs,
including Roger Nicholas Balsiger, a
descendant of Heinrich Moser.
2012: Georges-Henri Meylan, whose
grandfather was the co-owner of the
Moser business in Russia, acquires the
business under MELB Holding; his son
Edouard Meylan is appointed CEO.
For the first century of its life, Hamilton was one of the great names of
American watchmaking. Founded in 1892, its growth and expansion were
tied tightly to that of the American railroad network. Hamilton’s production
was heavily geared towards providing accurate pocket watches and other
instruments that kept the trains running on time. This proven reliability led to
Hamilton being used by aviator and explorer Richard Byrd on the first-ever flight
to reach the North Pole, a journey that lasted 15 hours and 57 minutes.
In 1932, Hamilton began a quest to conquer a very different type of frontier:
Hollywood. The legendary Marlene Dietrich was the first to wear the brand in the
film Shanghai Express. Other notable cinematic appearances include the 1951 war
drama film The Frogmen, and on Elvis Presley’s wrist in Blue Hawaii. More recently,
Hamilton has featured in out-of-this-world hits Interstellar and The Martian.
One notable moment in the history of Hamilton took place in 1970, when the
brand released some cutting-edge tech in the form of the Pulsar. It boasted the very
first digital LED display, which lit up when a button on the futuristic-looking case
was pushed. The new technology was a hit, and the distinctive design can be spotted
on many of the biggest names in the ’70s, including Roger Moore during his turn as
James Bond. Hamilton celebrated the 50th anniversary of this achievement with the
re-release of the Hamilton PSR, a seriously cool, nostalgic hit.
Today, the brand is based out of Biel and continues to produce robust,
reliable watches.
TIMELINE:
1892: Hamilton founded in Lancaster,
Pennsylvania
1918: Hamilton watches used by the U.S.
Airmail service
1926: Commander Richard Byrd uses a
Hamilton to time his flight to the North
Pole
1932: Marlene Dietrich wears a Hamilton
in Shanghai Express
1961: Elvis Presley wears a Hamilton
Ventura in Blue Hawaii
1957: Releases the world’s first electrical
watch movement, used in the Ventura case
1970: Produces the first LED digital
watch, the Pulsar
1971: Acquired by the Société Suisse pour
l’Industrie Horlogère, which became the
Swatch Group in 1984
2003: Headquarters and production
moved to Biel, Switzerland
ENDEAVOUR CENTER SECONDS
CONCEPT
Movement: Self-winding caliber HMC
200; hours and minutes; central hacking
seconds; Moser balance and Straumann
hairspring; three-day power reserve
Case and dial: 18K white gold; 40mm;
blue dial; other colors available
Strap: Grey alligator leather with pin
buckle
Price: USD22,000
ENDEAVOUR CYLINDRICAL
TOURBILLON H. MOSER X MB&F
Movement: Self-winding caliber HMC
810; hours and minutes; one-minute
flying tourbillon with cylindrical
hairspring; 72-hour power reserve
Case and dial: Stainless steel; fumé dials
in funky blue, burgundy, cosmic green,
off-white or ice blue
Strap: Black alligator leather with steel
folding clasp
Price: USD79,000; limited to 15 pieces
per color
STREAMLINER CENTER SECONDS
Movement: Self-winding caliber HMC
200; hours and minutes; central seconds;
72-hour power reserve
Case and dial: Stainless steel; 40mm;
matrix green dial; water-resistant
to 120m
Strap: Integrated steel bracelet with
folding clasp
Price: USD12,900
HAMILTON PSR
Movement: Digital quartz; hours and
minutes
Case: Stainless stee; 40.8 mm x 34.7
mm; LCD & OLED hybrid display; waterresistant
to 100m
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: USD745
HAMILTON JAZZMASTER SKELETON
AUTO
Movement: Self-winding caliber H-10-S
(ETA C07.111); open-worked black or
white dial; hours, minutes and seconds;
80-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 40mm; stainless steel;
water-resistant to 50m
Strap: Stainless-steel bracelet or black
calf-leather strap
Price: USD1,245
HAMILTON KHAKI NAVY BELOWZERO
TENET SPECIAL EDITION
Movement: Self-winding caliber H-10
(ETA 2824-2); hours, minutes and
seconds; 80-hour power reserve
Case and dial: Titanium with black PVD;
46mm; black dial; water-resistant
to 1000m
Strap: Black rubber with PVD pin buckle
Price: USD2,095
Limited to 888 pieces
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Harry Winston
Hermès
The House of Harry Winston entered the world of horology with the launch
of the Premier Collection in 1989. Since then, the house has continued
to grow and expand its portfolio: the Midnight Collection showcases
the company’s classical tendencies; the Ocean Collection executes the perfect
balance between elegance and sportiness; and Project Z, launched in 2004,
embodies a technically demanding approach to watches using next-generation
materials and design philosophies. And, of course, we cannot omit one of
Harry Winston’s most exciting periods, which was when Maximilian Büsser
headed the watchmaking department and created Opus, seeding the idea for
what would subsequently become his own brand, MB&F. Launched in 2001,
the Opus Collection was a series of collaborations between Harry Winston and
master watchmakers, who worked together to develop extraordinary timepieces
that pushed the boundaries of watchmaking as we knew it. No shape was too
outrageous, no movement too impossible to create. For 2020, Harry Winston’s
ladies’ timepieces are once again back in the spotlight with color as the main
theme. The Premier Collection takes inspiration from the kaleidoscope, with
dials made from layers of colored mother of pearl and other precious stones.
And for the men, it’s the Project Z14, cased in Zalium, the house’s signature
alloy of aluminium and zirconium, that has our hearts.
TIMELINE
1932: Founded in New York City
1989: Enters watchmaking scene with the
Premier Collection
2001: Launches the Opus collection, then
headed by Maximilian Büsser to represent
collaborations between the House and
other master watchmakers
2004: Project Z debuts, introducing
the world’s first timepiece in Zalium, a
revolutionary alloy of aluminium
and zirconium
2007: Timepiece Manufacture opens
in Geneva
2009: Debuts the New York Collection
and the Histoire de Tourbillon collection
2010: The Winston Cluster motif, inspired
by lilies in bloom, is born
Hermès has over 100 years of history in watchmaking, although this detail is
often overshadowed by the successes of its other luxury departments. But
Hermès has been in the business of watches since 1912, and its commitment
to haute horlogerie is still evident in the pieces they present today. In the ‘30s up
to the early ‘70s, Hermès sold some of the most desirable watches in the world
that were double-signed by the company, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Universal
Genève, even Rolex. In 1978, Hermès opens up its own manufacture, La Montre
Hermès in Biel, and presents the first collection, Arceau, inspired by the shape of a
stirrup. Hermès watches have always been imbued with a unique sense of whimsy,
and this could not be truer in watches like the Arceau Temps Suspendu in 2011,
which was capable of suspending time on the dial while continuously running in the
background, and the Arceau l’here de la lune that was first released last year, which
gave a beautiful new interpretation of the moon phase indication.
In opening Les Ateliers d’Hermès Horloger in Le Noirmont, Hermès
successfully brought all its specialists under one roof, cutting down on production
time and giving the company the flexibility and capability to create the most
imaginative of timepieces. Its artistic dials are true works of art; taking inspiration
from past scarves designs and reinterpreting them on the miniature dials using
miniature painting, enamelling and marquetry.
TIMELINE
1837: Establishes in Paris with expertise
in crafting saddles and harnesses for
horses
1928: First watches bearing Hermès
signature presented
1978: La Montre Hermès S.A. opens in
Biel, Switzerland. First collection, Arceau,
launches
1991: Cape Cod debuts
2006: Acquires 25 per cent stake in
VaucherManufactureFleurier
2012: Acquires Natéber S.A, specialist in
watch faces
2013: Acquires Joseph Erard S.A for cases
2015: Hermès Slim is launched
2017: Case and dial entities are brought
under the name of Les Ateliers d’Hermès
Horloger
PREMIER MAJESTIC ART DECO
AUTOMATIC 36MM
Movement: Self-winding HW2008; hours
and minutes; 72-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 18K white gold; 36mm;
black and white mother-of-pearl
marquetry dial; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Black pearl alligator leather with
matching ardillon buckle with diamonds
Price: On request
OCEAN BIRETROGRADE 36MM
Movement: Self-winding HW3302;
hours and minutes; retrograde seconds;
retrograde day; date; 65-hour power
reserve
Case: 18K white or rose gold; 36mm;
water-resistant to 100m
Strap: 18K white- or rose-gold bracelet
Price: On request
PROJECT Z14
Movement: Self-winding HW2202; hours
and minutes; retrograde seconds; 65-hour
power reserve
Case: Zalium; 42.2mm; water-resistant
to 100m
Strap: Textile-effect rubber; rubber base
with Zalium ardillon buckle with folding
clasp
Price: On request; limited to 300 pieces
ARCEAU L’HEURE DE LA LUNE
Movement: Self-winding H1837; hours,
minutes; date; double moon phase; 45-
hour power reserve
Case and dial: 18K white gold; 43mm;
lunar meteorite dial; mother-of-pearl
moons; water resistant to 30m
Strap: Alligator leather with matching
tone to the dial
Price: On request
ARCEAU CHEVAL COSMIQUE
Movement: Self-winding H1912; hours,
minutes; 50-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 18K white gold; 41mm;
aventurine and hand-engraved dial;
water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Alligator leather with matching
tone to the dial
Price: USD54,500
Limited edition to 24 pieces
SLIM D’HERMÈS GMT
Movement: Self-winding H1950 with
Agenhor-developed GMT module; hours,
minutes; date; GMT; day/night indication
for home/local time; 42-hour power
reserve
Case: 18K rose gold; 39.5mm; waterresistant
to 30m
Strap: Matte abyss blue alligator leather
with pin buckle
Price: USD19,675
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HYT
Hublot
When the first HYT timepiece was born — the H1 in 2012 — its approach was
firmly based on the most original and even unprecedented technological
innovation. The idea of successfully combining liquids — a natural enemy of
watchmaking — with high-end mechanics sounded unlikely. And yet, the small maison in
Neuchâtel succeeded, thanks to the innovative fluidic technology from Preciflex, a tech
company exclusively associated with HYT.
Today, after having mastered this hydro-horological technology, HYT has embarked
on a journey where its watchmaking know-how has acquired more emotional and artistic
overtones. Time now is not seen as a moment but as a succession of instances that places
us in a reality, where the past has been left behind and the future awaits us anxiously. This
idea is ideally represented by the time display of all HYT watches.
HYT’s SOONOW watches lead this romantic idea of the passage of time, only
now they are accompanied by a jovial and colorful execution. In particular, the Instant
Rainbow anchors its artistic idea in the skull contour of its delicate, hand-crafted 10-
fold capillary. Yellow and blue are shaped as the essential tones to represent the past
and future times, respectively. The other colors of the rainbow are gradually spread
throughout the 3D dial. The light makes the 668 sapphires, amethysts and tsavorites
shine in 14 color variations. In combination with the purple titanium dial, covered with
313 18K yellow-gold pins of different sizes, this increases the overall radiance and threedimensional
effect of the design.
The final iteration of the H20 reminds us that every beginning must have an end.
This limited edition of five pieces celebrates the series’ enormous capacity to shape
the brand’s past, present and future. The design of the H20 reflects this process in its
resemblance to a smooth stone that has stood the test of time perfectly.
TIMELINE
2010: The company is founded.
2012: The first H1 wins the Grand
Prix Innovation Watch Prize.
2013: In its first full year of
production, HYT makes about 150
watches.
2015: The launch of the H3 and
Skull collections.
2017: the H0 emerges as the
reinterpretation of the essential
HYT watch.
2019: The appearance of the H5
powered by caliber 501, made in
collaboration with watchmaker
Eric Coudray.
Hublot was established, in 1980, by Carlo Crocco. His idea
was to disrupt the rise of sports luxury watches fitted on
metal bracelets with one that would have its case fitted on
a rubber strap. The shape of this case is one that we’re all familiar
with today: a round case with its bezel in the distinctive shape of a
ship’s porthole, or “hublot” in French.
Crocco’s effort in building Hublot would get its first proper
drive into the 21st century with industry titan, Mr. Jean-Claude
Biver, taking the helm of the brand in 2004. It was he who
formulated the concept of “fusion.” But his greatest feat with the
brand was the launch of the Big Bang collection, which he created
and brought to market within the span of eight months, in time to
have the watch unveiled at Baselworld 2005.
However, a conversation with Mr. Biver will reveal that, as
opposed to the Big Bang, he attributes his success at Hublot to
having groomed the right protégé, the man who leads the brand at
the moment, Mr. Ricardo Guadalupe. The same Mr. Guadalupe,
who left the job that he had in 2004, to help Mr. Biver bring the
Big Bang to Baselworld 2005.
After 28 years as an independent brand, Hublot was acquired
by LVMH in 2008. This began a road towards vertical integration
and the opening of a manufacture facility in Nyon, Switzerland,
that has been progressively extended over the years. It has
given Hublot the capacity to manufacture its own chronograph
movement, the UNICO, which is best known for its integrated
column wheel visible on the dial side. Hublot also took in some
specialist watchmakers from its former supplier, BNB Concept, to
inaugurate its own Grandes Complications division.
Hublot has gone from strength to strength building its
horological and cultural reach, growing its relevance in several
universes far removed from watchmaking, such as in the world
of sports, contemporary art, music and much more. By doing
so, it is speaking to a new and young generation of watch lovers,
successfully attracting them to the world of Hublot.
SOONOW INSTANT RAINBOW
Reference Number: H02513
Movement: Manual-winding Chronode
caliber with patented proprietary fluidic
module; blue fluidic hours; seconds; 65-
hour power reserve
Case: 48.8mm; stainless steel with black
DLC coating; water-resistant to 50m
Strap: Black rubber
Price: USD 105,000; limited to
eight pieces
SOONOW DROP ONE
Reference Number: H02239
Movement: Manual-winding Chronode
caliber with patented proprietary fluidic
module; black fluidic hours; seconds;
65-hour power reserve
Case: 48.8mm; stainless steel; waterresistant
to 50m
Strap: Black rubber
Price: USD79,000; limited to five pieces
H20 RED (FINAL VERSION)
Reference Number: H02390
Movement: Manual-winding APRP caliber
with patented proprietary fluidic module;
red fluidic hours; phase shift minutes;
crown position indicator; thermal
indicator; 192-hour power reserve
Case: 51mm; stainless steel with black
DLC coating; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Red rubber
Price: USD95,000; limited to five pieces
BIG BANG MILLENNIAL PINK
Ref: 441.UP.7320.NR.GIT20
Movement: Self-winding UNICO caliber
HUB1280; hours and minutes, seconds;
chronograph; 72-hour power reserve
Case: 42mm; satin-finished and polished
pink millennial anodized aluminum;
water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Pink millennial knit Velcro with
pink millennial stitching
Price and availability: USD20,900;
Limited edition of 200 pieces
BIG BANG E
Ref: 440.NX.1100.RX (Titanium)
Movement: Google Wear OS with
Qualcomm and Snapdragon Wear 3100
processor; 1-day battery life; 2.5 hours
tochargeemptybattery
Case: 42mm; satin-finished and polished
titanium; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Lined black rubber
Price: Titanium: USD5,200
Black ceramic: USD5,800
BIG BANG INTEGRAL
Ref: 451.CX.1140.CX (Ceramic)
Movement: Self-winding UNICO caliber
HUB1280; hours and minutes, seconds;
72-hour power reserve
Case: 42mm; satin-finished and polished
titanium, satin-finished and polished 18K
King Gold or satin-finished and polished
black ceramic; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Black ceramic bracelet
Price: USD23,100
Limited edition of 500 pieces
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IWC
In the year 1868, seeing the availability of watchmaking talent
and industrial fervor in the city of Schaffhausen, 27-year-old
Bostonian Florentine Ariosto Jones travelled to Switzerland in
hopes of capitalizing on the country’s horological talent, to build
his own company. His ambition led to the International Watch
Company, better known today simply as IWC.
From the late 19th century into the 20th, and all the way
through to the 21st century, IWC has grown from strength to
strength, developing its own unique vocabulary for watchmaking,
and technologies that have helped and challenged the collective
industry to better itself. Take, for example, the Pallweber system
of displaying digital hours and minutes, and IWC Technical
Director Albert Pellaton’s idea to use a soft-inner iron core to
provide magnetic protection and his automatic winding system.
Some of the first instances of the use of titanium and ceramic in
watchmaking can be attributed to IWC. And, you can’t discuss
IWC’s many accomplishments without bringing up Kurt Klaus’s
Grande Complication, which was built on a Valjoux 7750 ébauche
and boasted the ability to adjust all of the calendar displays by
turning the crown backwards and forwards.
Owing to the extent of time the company has been around
and the history it has been a part of, there are various creations
of the manufacture’s that are icons by all measures of the word.
Timepieces such as the Mark 11, the Portugieser, the Ingenieur,
and of course, the direct descendant of the B-Uhr, which is the
modern-day Big Pilot.
Naturally, all of present-day IWC’s watch collections
are evolutions of these various icons. In the past decade, the
manufacture has taken upon itself to update and rejuvenate
these families on regular basis. For 2020, IWC has taken on
the Portugieser. The refresh includes a fair number of familiar
references, such as the Portugieser Chronograph, all of which now
boast the manufacture’s own developed movements.
But not just for the sake of refreshes, the 2020 Portugieser
also introduced a brand-new perpetual-calendar watch, the
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 and a brand-new complication
within the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide. It is in this
manner that IWC ensures that its icons’ DNA is preserved in every
generation of watches, while at the same time making significant
advancements to progress the family of watches.
PORTUGIESER PERPETUAL
CALENDAR 42
Movement: Self-winding IWCmanufacture
calibre 82650 with Pellaton
automatic winding system; hours and
minutes; hacking seconds; perpetual
calendar with date, day, month, leap
year and perpetual moon phase; 60-hour
power reserve
Case and Dial: Stainless steel; 42.4mm;
water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Black alligator
Price: USD22,900
PORTUGIESER PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Movement: Self-winding IWCmanufacture
calibre 52610 with Pellaton
automatic winding system; hours
and minutes; small hacking seconds;
perpetual calendar with displays for the
date, day, month, year in four digits and
perpetual moon phase; 168-hour
power reserve
Case and Dial:18K red gold; 44.2mm;
water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Blue alligator
Price: USD37,900
PORTUGIESER YACHT CLUB
MOON & TIDE
Movement: Self-winding IWC
manufacture calibre 82835 with Pellaton
automatic winding system; hours
and minutes; hacking seconds; date;
perpetual moon phase for the northern
and southern hemispheres; tide display;
60-hour power reserve
Case and Dial: 18K red gold; 44.6mm;
water resistant to 60m
Strap: Rubber
Price: USD33,100
PORTUGIESER CHRONOGRAPH
Ref: Ref. IW371615
Movement: Self-winding IWC
manufacture calibre 69355; hours,
minute, seconds; chronograph; 46-hour
power reserve
Case and Dial: 41mm; stainless-steel;
green dial; water-resistant to 30m; other
colorways available
Strap: Black alligator
Price: Starts from USD7,950
PORTUGIESER AUTOMATIC 42
Movement: Self-winding IWC
manufacture calibre 52010 with Pellaton
automatic winding system; hours and
minutes; small hacking seconds; 168-hour
power reserve
Case and Dial: Stainless steel; 42.3mm;
maroon dial; water-resistant to 30m;
other colorways available
Strap: Black alligator
Price: Starts at USD12,700
PORTUGIESER AUTOMATIC 40
Movement: Self-winding IWC
manufacture caliber 82200 with Pellaton
automatic winding system; hours and
minutes; small hacking seconds; 60-hour
power reserve
Case and Dial: Stainless steel; 40.4mm;
water-resistant to 30m; other colorways
available
Strap: Black alligator
Price: Starts from USD7,250
PORTUGIESER YACHT CLUB
CHRONOGRAPH
Movement: Self-winding IWCmanufacture
calibre 89361; hours
and minutes; small seconds; flyback
chronograph; date; 68-hour
power reserve
Case and Dial: Stainless steel; 44.6mm;
water resistant to 60m; other colorways
available
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: Starts at USD13,100
PORTUGIESER TOURBILLON
RÉTROGRADE CHRONOGRAPH
Movement: Self-winding IWC
manufacture calibre 89900; hours and
minutes; minute tourbillon; chronograph;
retrograde date; 68-hour power reserve
Case and Dial: Platinum; 43.5mm; water
resistant to 30m
Strap: Blue alligator leather
Price: Starts at CHF105,000
Limited to 50 pieces
PORTUGIESER PERPETUAL CALENDAR
TOURBILLON
Movement: Self-winding IWCmanufacture
Calibre 51950; hours and
minutes; perpetual calendar; perpetual
moon phase; flying minute tourbillon;
168-hour power reserve
Case and Dial: Platinum; 45mm; waterresistant
to 30m
Strap: Blue alligator strap
Price: CHF133,000
Limited to 50 pieces
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Jacob&Co.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
If there is one thing that distinguishes the timepieces by Jacob & Co., it is their audacity,
anchored in superlative mechanics and a degree of distinction that ostensibly separates
it from all other haute horlogerie creations. Here are three examples that confirm this.
The recent partnership between Bugatti and Jacob & Co. has just given birth to one
of the most impressive watches of recent years: the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon. This
gigantic watch is a piece of high engineering as rarely seen before. The case is occupied
by a manual-winding caliber with a tourbillon regulator and an impressively functional
miniature of the W16 engine of the Bugatti Chiron hyper car. By activating the actuator
on the side of the case, the crankshaft rotates, the pistons move, and the miniature
turbochargers begin to turn — such delightful excess!
In another equally delightful universe, we now find the Opera Scarface. To honor
the legendary film Scarface (1983, directed by Brian de Palma), Jacob & Co. expanded
the Opera collection — comprising musical pieces, including one with the main theme
of The Godfather — to now include the Opera Scarface, performing the Bolivia theme
composed by Giorgio Moroder. When a push-piece is activated at 10 o’clock, the 120-
note music box plays the melody, while the entire dial rotates 120 degrees under the
domed sapphire crystal.
At the end of the rainbow that marks the entrance to the world of Jacob & Co., we find
the Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow. Designed to recreate a shiny and precious
garden on the wrist, this timepiece features the colors of the rainbow and a delicate
butterfly tourbillon. The tourbillon, the time display and the multi-colored sapphire
flowers on the upper level move around the dial in a clockwise direction, while the rainbow
sapphire-flowered mother-of-pearl baseplate moves in a counter-clockwise direction.
TIMELINE
1980: Jacob Arabo establishes his
jewelry company in New York
2002: First watch: the digital Five
Time Zone
2006: Birth of the Quenttin lateraltourbillon
watch with 31-day power
reserve,incollaborationwithBNB
2012: Opening of Swiss
headquarters
2013: Launch of the Epic SF24
world timer, first collaboration with
Luca Soprana who became the
mastermind behind Jacob & Co.’s
haute horlogerie
2014: First Astronomía watch
The unofficial nickname of Le Sentier-based Jaeger-LeCoultre is the
“watchmaker of watchmakers.” The reason for this somewhat selfreferential
sobriquet is that throughout much of its long history, Jaeger-
LeCoultre was the maker other brands (from Cartier to Patek Philippe) went
to if they needed a specific caliber. From ultra-thin to ultra-complex, Jaeger-
LeCoultre does it all. In fact, they have well over 1,000 distinct calibers on
their books.
In 1833, Antoine LeCoultre founded a small workshop in Le Sentier, in the
picturesque Vallée de Joux. This location — which the company still occupies
today — became significant not just for the brand, but for the Swiss watch
industry as a whole, as it was the first to consolidate a disparate cottage industry
of artisans and suppliers under one roof, which paved the way for modern
watchmaking practices.
These days Jaeger-LeCoultre is known not just for its mechanical prowess
(though the whirling masterpieces created in La Grande Maison’s well-lit upper
studios are the definition of masterpieces), but also for classically minded and
distinguished design. Take, for example, the Reverso: a 1930s sports watch with
a proud rectangular and innovative flip case that has maintained its relevance
in the decades since its introduction, and stands today as one of the true iconic
watch designs.
One of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s more recent lines, the Master Control, dates back
to 1992 and was created to combine watchmaking precision with the purity of
classical watchmaking. The Master Control — which is still going strong today —
definitely delivers on the classical promise, and the comprehensive “1000 hours
control” testing that each and every watch is subjected to, ensures that Jeager-
LeCoultre’s reputation for precision and accuracy lives on.
TIMELINE
1833: Antoine LeCoultre establishes
workshop in Le Sentier
1866: Elie LeCoultre brings watchmaking
skills under one roof
1903: Jacques-David LeCoultre and
Edmond Jaeger develop ultra-thin
watches
1931: TheReversoiscreated
1958: The anti-magnetic Geophysic
is created
1968: ThePolarisisreleased,adive
watch with an alarm
1992: The Master Control collection,
along with the ‘1000 hours control’ test,
is created
2007: The distinctive Duomètre, with a
mechanism for the complication and one
for the timekeeping, is released
2019: The Master Grande Tradition
Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétual —
the fifth multi-axis tourbillon model the
brand has created — is released
BUGATTI CHIRON TOURBILLON
Ref: BU200.20.AA.AC.A
Movement: Manual-winding calibre
JCAM37; hours and minutes; inclined
tourbillon; functional animated miniature
of the Chiron’s W16 engine; powerreserve
indicator; 60-hour power reserve
Case: 54mm x 44mm; black DLC
titanium; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Rubber
Price: USD280,000, customization
available
OPERA SCARFACE
Ref: OP110.40.AK.AA.ABALA
Movement: Manual-winding calibre
JCFM04; subsidiary hours and minutes;
triple-axis high-speed tourbillon; 120-
note musical box, rotating decorations
and baseplate; 42-hour power reserve
Case: 49mm; 18K rose gold; waterresistant
to 30m
Strap: Rubber
Price: USD360,000, limited to 88 pieces
ASTRONOMIA FLEURS DE JARDIN
RAINBOW
Ref: AF321.40.BD.AE.BBSAA
Movement: Manual-winding calibre
JCAM31; subsidiary hours and minutes;
double-axis flying tourbillon; rotating
decorations and baseplate; 48-hour
power reserve
Case: 42.5mm; 18K rose gold; rainbow
sapphires; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Satin or alligator leather
Price: USD390,000; limited to 101 pieces
70 IN TIME
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Jaquet Droz
JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER
CONTROL CALENDAR
Movement: Automatic caliber 866;
hours and minutes; small seconds; day;
jumping date; month; moon phases;
70-hour power reserve
Case and dial: Stainless steel; 40mm
x 10.95mm; mix of satin and polished
finishes; sapphire caseback; water
resistant to 50m; silver sunray dial with
applied indices
Strap: Novonappa calf leather
Price: USD11,100
JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER
CONTROL MEMOVOX TIMER
Movement: Automatic caliber 956AA;
hours, minutes and seconds; date; alarm
Case and dial: Stainless steel; 40mm
x 12.39mm; mix of satin and polished
finishes; water resistant to 50m; blue,
sunray-brushed dial with timer display
Strap : Leather
Price: USD11,600
JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER
CONTROL CHRONOGRAPH CALENDAR
Movement: Automatic caliber 759; hours
and minutes; chronograph, 30-minute
counter, date; day; month; pulsometer
Case and dial: Stainless steel; 40mm
x 12.05mm; mix of satin and polished
finishes; sapphire caseback; water
resistant to 50m; silver sunray dial with
applied indices
Strap: Novonappa calf leather
Price: USD14,500
Pierre Jaquet-Droz was a clockmaker who travelled far and
wide to showcase his sophisticated clocks and automatons.
He had a life-long fascination with nature and birds, and
took every opportunity to incorporate them into the design of
his clocks, snuff boxes, pocket watches and automata. Making
his mark in Spain, France and London, Jaquet-Droz eventually
found his way to China, India and Japan with the help of trading
company James Cox London. Truly one of the first clockmaking
brands to make its presence in China, Jaquet-Droz very quickly
captivated the interests of Emperor Qianlong and the Imperial
Court. To this day, many of his automata and pocket watches
are still preserved in the Imperial Palace Museum. The passing
of both Pierre Jaquet-Droz and his son Henri-Louis, plus the
aftermath of the French Revolution, killed off any desire and
trade for luxury objects, bringing a chapter of great creativity
and prosperity to a close.
The year 2000 marked a revival for Jaquet Droz when it
was acquired by the Swatch Group to preserve the exceptional
heritage of its founder. The Grande Seconde was launched in
2002, inspired by a 18th-century pocket watch with the hour
and minute display at 12 o’clock overlapping the seconds counter
at six o’clock. In 2010, Montres Jaquet Droz S.A. returns to
its birthplace in La Chaux-de-Fonds, in which its horological
expertise and its atelier d’art continued to expand. 2013 marked
its 275th anniversary, an occasion for Jaquet Droz to release its
first singing bird automaton on a wristwatch: the Charming Bird.
The masterpiece won the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in
the “Mechanical Exception” category two years later.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE REVERSO ONE
RED-WINE
Movement: Quartz caliber 657; hours
and minutes
Case and dial: Stainless steel; 40.1mm x
20mm x 7.9mm; water resistant to 30m;
burgundy red dial
Strap: Leather
Price: USD5,350
JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER GRANDE
TRADITION GRANDE COMPLICATION
movement: Manual-winding caliber 945;
hours and minutes; date and month; 24-
hour indication; orbital flying tourbillon;
sidereal time; minute repeater; celestial
disc; 40-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 45mm; 18K pink gold;
black dial with golden laser-welded
structure; water resistant to 50m
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: On request
JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER ULTRA
THIN KINGSMAN KNIFE
Movement: Manual-winding caliber 849,
hours, minutes; 35-hour power reserve
Case: 18K pink gold; 40mm; silver dial
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: USD29,800
Limited to 100 pieces.
GRANDE SECOND QUANTIÈME IVORY
ENAMEL
Ref: J007020350
Movement: Self-winding 2660Q2 caliber;
Off-centered hours, minutes; large
seconds; 68-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 18K red gold; 41mm;
12.10mm thick; Grand Feu enamel dial;
water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Light brown alligator leather with
gold ardillon buckle
Price: USD20,000
ATELIERS D’ART PETITE HEURE MINUTE
TIGER
Ref: J005034275
Movement: Self-winding 2653.P caliber;
off-centered hours, minutes; 68-hour
power reserve
Case and dial: 18K white gold; 43mm;
black grand feu enamel dial with miniature
painting; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Black alligator leather
Price: On request
Limited edition of 28 pieces
GRANDE SECONDE SKELET-ONE
Ref: J003525540
Movement: Self-winding 2663 SQ
caliber; hours and minute; large seconds;
skeletonized movement bridges; 68-hour
power reserve
Case and dial: Anthracite ceramic
plasma; 41.5mm; slate-grey dial; waterresistant
to 30m
Strap: Grey textile strap
Price: USD23,600
72 IN TIME
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Laurent Ferrier
Le Rhöne
The name Laurent Ferrier brings to mind timepieces of superlative quality. The
eponymous founder, the third generation in a family of watchmakers, studied
at the Geneva Watchmaking School before honing his skills at Patek Philippe,
where he achieved the position of product and development manager. This is reflected
in his offerings, which ooze a wonderful mix of formality and panache.
Back in the 1970s, Ferrier was a racing driver, competing in the legendary 24 Hours
of Le Mans seven times, coming first in the two-litre prototype category in 1977. This
proved crucial in an horological sense because this was when he met fellow driver and
industrialist François Servanin, with whom he co-piloted a Porsche 935T in 1979,
coming an overall third in the competition. When in 2009 his former motor-racing
partner gave him carte blanche to create his own watch, he responded with the timepiece
of his dreams: the Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral. This was the beginning of Laurent
Ferrier the brand.
Ferrier reconnected us all with the love for classical watchmaking, a remembrance of
things past, that we had almost forgotten. But now, thanks to him, it comes flooding back
to us more powerfully than ever. Laurent Ferrier would become our bridge between the
past and the present. His watches are the living, beating repository of horology’s greatest
collective memories. So artfully did he wield nuanced details inspired by 19th- and mid-
20th-century Swiss watchmaking that his vision felt like it had had existed for a century
or more, already permanently inscribed into the lexicon of horology’s great canon.
TIMELINE
1979: Laurent Ferrier and François
ServanintakethirdplaceintheLe
Mans24Hoursrace,atthewheelofa
Porsche 935 Turbo.
2009: Establishes Laurent Ferrier SA
2010: Launch of the Classic Tourbillon
Double Spiral which won the Best
Men’s Watch award at GPHG
2012: Launch of Classic Micro-Rotor
2013: Launch of Classic Traveller
2015: The cushion-shaped Square
wins GPHG
2017: Release of the Montre École
2019: Launch of first sports watch,
Tourbillon Grand Sport
2020: Classic Origin Opaline and
Classic Origin Green mark Laurent
Ferrier’s 10th anniversary as an
independent watchmaker
In 2013, two school friends, Loïc Florentin and Timo Rajakoski, took
their love of watches and launched Le Rhöne. With headquarters in
Geneva, traditional watchmaking techniques are utilized by these
unconventional thinkers to celebrate creativity. Haute horlogerie meets
bespoke specifications with the double tourbillons of the Horölogy, while
the Röad Racer takes its inspiration from the lines of ’60s muscle cars. The
Hedönia combines graphic aesthetics with the technical, and the Moön makes
an oversized aventurine or gem-set moonphase the dial’s focal point with
SuperLuminova stars replicating the night sky. The Vöyage allows for the easy
readability of travel time with local-time hours and minutes with a home-time
jumping hour indication at six o’clock.
TIMELINE
2013: Le Rhöne is launched
2014: Launches Röad Racer line; joins
Baselworld for the first time
2015: Introduces first brand
ambassador, Nicholas Almagro
2016: First double-tourbillon Horölogy
timepiece
2017: Develops new lines and
complications: Hedönia, Moön
2018: Development of the Vöyage line
and 37mm case
2019: Introduction of the Moön Act
Öne; introduces titanium and carbon to
the collection
2020: Introduction of the Moön Act Twö
CLASSIC ORIGIN OPALINE
Movement: Manual winding caliber
LF116.01; hours, minutes, small
seconds; 80-hour power reserve
Case: 40mm in Grade 5 titanium; waterresistant
to 30m
Dial: White-silver opaline dial with a slate
grey hour circle and burgundy numerals
Strap: Light brown Barbialla calf leather
with Alcantara lining; pin buckle in grade
5 titanium
Price: USD31,000
GRAND SPORT TOURBILLON
Movement: Manual winding LF619.01
caliber; hours, minutes; small seconds;
tourbillon with double balance spring;
3Hz; 80-hour power reserve
Case: 44mm case in stainless steel; screwdown
caseback; water-resistant to 100m
Dial: Gradient blue opaline in centre and
black at the periphery
Strap: Integrated stainless steel integrated
bracelet with 3 links and folding clasp
Price: USD185,000
CLASSIC ORIGIN GREEN
Movement: Manual winding caliber
LF116.01; hours, minutes, small seconds
at 6 o’clock; 80-hour power reserve
Case: 40mm in Grade 5 titanium; waterresistant
to 30m
Dial: Green gradient opaline dial with
a slate grey hour circle and yellow
numerals
Strap: Honey brown Timberland leather;
pin buckle in grade 5 titanium
Price: To be determined
MOÖN LIMITED EDITIONS, ACT-TWO
Reference Number: H5DD3J3L1-A61A
Movement: Automatic, fully developed
and manufactured in Switzerland;
hours and minutes; central moonphase
display; 42-hour power reserve
Case: 37mm; black titanium set with 56
baguette-cut amethysts; water-resistant
to 100m
Strap: Purple alligator leather
Price: USD117,500
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Multiple Choice
The Watches of Switzerland Group makes its top picks for 2020.
When it comes to “Best Of” lists, watch editors have it pretty easy. We
can pick the most radical designs, wildest complications, and far-out
concepts, making few considerations beyond fun factor and outright
wrist appeal. Why play it safe? For retailers, though, things can be trickier; a host of
additional real-world factors, from the availability and exclusivity to the price point,
start coming into play. It makes compiling such a list significantly more involved,
but arguably yields more interesting results. After all, a retailer’s choices can better
reflect the mood and direction of the market—and more accurately predict just
how far-out collectors might be willing to go. With that in mind, Revolution asked
our friends at Watches of Switzerland to submit their favorite pieces for 2020. We
were pleasantly surprised to find their selection skewed bold and exciting. It seems
that playing it safe isn’t in style: When we eventually compared lists, many of their
choices were our favorites, too.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
EGERIE MOON PHASE
Ref: 8005F/000R-B498
Movement: Self-winding
Caliber Ref. 1088L; hours,
minutes, seconds, stopseconds
device, moon phase
Case: 37mm 18k pink gold
Strap: Three interchangeable
alligator-leather straps
Price: USD32,700
PATEK PHILIPPE SPLIT-
SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH
- GRAND COMPLICATION
Ref: 5370P
Movement: Manual-winding
CHR 29-535 PS, hours,
minutes, seconds; date;
chronograph
Case: 41mm platinum
Strap: Shiny dusk blue
alligator with large scales
Price: US$263,090
TUDOR BLACK BAY 58
NAVY BLUE
Ref: 79030B
Movement: Automatic Calibre
MT5402 (COSC); hours,
minutes, central seconds,
stop-seconds
Case: 39mm stainless steel
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: US$3,700
GRAND SEIKO X WOS TŌGÈ
SPECIAL EDITION
Ref: SBGM241
Movement: Self-winding
caliber 9S66; hours, minutes,
central seconds; GMT; date
Case: 39.5mm stainless steel
Strap: Brown crocodile
leather with green stitching
Price: US$5,200
HUBLOT X WOS
AEROFUSION
CHRONOGRAPH
Ref: 525.CM.0173.LR.AUM20
Movement: Self-winding
HUB1155; hours, minutes,
central seconds, date
Case: 45mm satin-finished
and polished black ceramic
Strap: Black rubber and
alligator, deployant buckle
Price: US$17,700
BULGARI SERPENTI
SEDUTTORI TOURBILLON
Ref: 103260 (white gold)
Movement: Manual-winding
caliber BVL150; hours,
minutes; tourbillon
Case: 34mm 18k white gold
set with diamonds
Strap: Alligator leather strap
Price: USD82,000 (white gold)
CARTIER PASHA DE CARTIER
Movement: Self-winding
caliber 1847 MC, hour,
minute, central seconds; date
Case: 41mm stainless steel
Strap: Interchangeable
stainless steel bracelet and
grey alligator leather strap
Price: USD6,700
VACHERON OVERSEAS
PERPETUAL CALENDAR
ULTRA-THIN
Ref: 4300V/120R-B509
Movement: Self-winding
Calibre 1120 QP/1; hours,
minutes, perpetual calendar
Case: 41.5mm 18k pink gold
Strap: Interchangeable
pink gold bracelet, alligator
leather, rubber
Price: USD88,500
AUDEMARS PIGUET CODE
11:59 CHRONOGRAPH
Ref: 26393BC.OO.A068CR.01
Movement: Self-winding
Calibre 4401; hours, minutes,
central seconds; date
Case: 41mm 18k white gold
Strap: Large square scale
burgundy alligator leather
with white gold pin buckle
Price: USD42,400
BREITLING SUPEROCEAN
HERITAGE 57’ LIMITED
EDITION BLACK
Ref: A103701A1B1A1
Movement: Self-winding
caliber Breitling 10; hours,
minutes, seconds; date
Case: 42mm stainless steel
Strap: Stainless steel mesh
bracelet or black calfskin
leather strap
Price: US$5,025
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
MASTER CONTROL DATE
Ref: 4018420
Movement: Self-winding
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre
899AC; hours, minutes,
central seconds, date
Case: 40mm stainless steel
Strap: Brown leather strap
Price: US$6,700
THE ENDEAVOR
CYLINDRICAL TOURBILLON
H. MOSER X MB&F LIMITED
EDITION
Ref: Ref. 1810 Burgundy
Movement: Self-winding
caliber HMC 810; hours,
minutes, seconds; date
Case: 40mm stainless steel
Strap: Alligator leather strap
Price: US$79,000
OMEGA’S SEAMASTER
PLANET OCEAN 36TH
AMERICA’S CUP
Ref: 215.32.43.21.04.001
Movement: Self-winding
Master Chronometer
Calibre 8900; hours, minutes,
central seconds; date
Case: 43.5mm stainless steel
Strap: Structured rubber
Price: US$7,050
76 IN TIME
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Longines
Founded in 1832 in Saint-Imier, located in the Swiss Jura, Longines
developed, as early as 1878, its first instrument for timing sport events: a
chronograph pocket watch with a monopusher crown. Some years later,
in 1889, Longines was already able to measure time to 1/5th of a second. The
1880s marked the start of Longines’s glorious history of sports timing at horseracing
events in the United States. By working as a professional timekeeper of
sporting events in nearly all disciplines and as a manufacturer of instruments
for pilots, navigators, explorers and sportsmen, Longines was always pushing to
improve the accuracy, precision and functionality of its watches.
From working on professional timepieces, Longines transferred its knowhow
to wristwatches. To do so, the heart of the watch — the movement — often
needed to be redesigned and miniaturized, and culminated in the brand’s
first wrist chronograph in 1913, the first high-frequency pocket chronograph
ticking at 36,000 beats per hour in 1929 (caliber 18.72) and the world’s first
wristwatch with rotating bezel in 1931; they also patented the world’s first
flyback- chronograph in 1936. To improve the precision of timing sports events,
in 1954, Longines introduced the electronic quartz clock, and later launched
one of the first quartz wristwatches in 1969.
TIMELINE
1832: Founded in Saint-Imier, as
Raiguel Jeune & Cie
1867: The factory in Saint-Imier produces
its first movement, the calibre 20A
1878: Longines produces its first
chronograph caliber 20H
1899: Prince Luigi Amedeo of Savoie,
the Duke of Abruzzi, goes on an Arctic
expedition equipped with Longines
timepieces
1908: Longines wins first prize at the
Neuchâtel Observatory’s pocketchronometers
contest for precision
1919: The International Aeronautical
Federation names Longines as its official
supplier
1931: Legendary aviator Charles
Lindbergh designs a navigational
instrument with Longines, the Lindbergh
Hour Angle Watch
1936: Longines creates the legendary
chronograph calibre 13ZN
1945: The brand releases its first selfwinding
movement, the calibre 22A
1954: The manufacture’s first quartz
clock, the Chronocinégines, sets
records for accuracy at the Neuchâtel
Observatory: with a 16mm camera
attached, it allows sports officials to
track athletes’ movements as they pass
the finish line, with images taken every
1/100th of a second; the company also
launches its iconic Conquest line
1983: The manufacture joins the
esteemed ranks of the Societe Suisse de
Microelectronique et d’Horlogerie, now
known as the Swatch Group
1999: “Elegance is an attitude” is adopted
as the company’s unforgettable slogan
2005: Longines unveils the fully
mechanical Master collection
2013: Longines further strengthens its
ties to equestrian sport with the signing
of a partnership with the International
Equestrian Federation
2019: Longines celebrates its
50,000,000th timepiece, which is
launched from the iconic Master
collection
LONGINES HERITAGE CLASSIC
CHRONOGRAPH 1946
Movement: Self-winding caliber L895.5
(ETA A31.L21); hours and minutes; small
seconds; chronograph; 54-hour
power reserve
Case: 40mm; stainless steel; waterresistant
to 30m
Strap: Black leather with pin buckle
Price: USD3,050
LONGINES HYDROCONQUEST
“KHAKI GREEN”
Movement: Self-winding caliber L888.3;
hours, minutes and seconds; date; 64-
hour power reserve
Case: 41mm or 43mm; stainless steel;
green ceramic bezel insert; waterresistant
to 300m
Strap: Green rubber strap or steel
bracelet with diving extension
Price: USD1,600
LONGINES HERITAGE CLASSIC TUXEDO
Movement: Self-winding caliber L893;
hours and minutes; small seconds; 64-
hour power reserve
Case and dial: 38.5mm; stainless-steel
case; silver opaline and black dial; waterresistant
to 30m
Strap: Black leather
Price: USD2,000
LONGINES SPIRIT COLLECTION
Movement: Self-winding caliber L888.4
or calibre L688.4; hours, minutes and
seconds; date; 64-hour power reserve;
COSC-certified
Case and dial: Stainless steel; 42mm;
grained silver dial; stamped with five
applied stars; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Steel bracelet or leather straps
Price: USD2,250
LONGINES HERITAGE CLASSIC
CHRONOGRAPH TUXEDO
Movement: Self-winding caliber L895;
hours and minutes; small seconds;
chronograph; tachymeter; 54-hour
power reserve
Case and dial: 40mm; stainless-steel
case; silver opaline and black dial; waterresistant
to 30m
Strap: Black leather
Price: USD3,000
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Louis Moinet
MB&F
Ateliers Louis Moinet was founded in Saint-Blaise, Neuchâtel, in 2004. The
totally independent company was created to celebrate the memory of Louis
Moinet (1768-1853), a master watchmaker who genuinely left his mark, having
invented the chronograph in 1816 and by pioneering the use of very high frequencies
(216,000 vibrations per hour). Watchmaker, plastic artist, and professor at the École des
Beaux-Arts, Moinet also wrote the Traité d’Horlogerie, a comprehensive document on
watchmaking published in 1848 that remained a definitive reference work for a century.
Today, the Ateliers Louis Moinet perpetuates his legacy, either as unique models or as
limited editions comprising two categories: cosmic art and mechanical marvels.
Within the astral domain, the Metropolis series has earned a place in modern
horlogerie d’auteur, thanks to its definition of forms and proportions accompanied by
highly artistic design and elements that are literally out of this world. For instance, the
Metropolis Mars contains, encapsulated at three o’clock, a fragment of a
Martian meteorite.
In terms of mechanical marvels, we would never omit the Memoris, the chronograph
with which Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO of Louis Moinet, pays tribute to Moinet’s original
1816 chronograph. The Memoris was designed mainly as a chronograph; therefore, on
the front side of the movement, all the components of the monopusher chronograph can
be seen, leaving the time indication on a small dial. Two of the iterations of this awardwinning
watch are: the Memoris Scarab features a time display made from 12 elements
of the Indonesian green beetle (Sternocera aequisignata), while the Memoris Titanium’s
use of the lightweight metal, in combination with its blue and orange colors, earned it a
Red Dot award for Good Design.
TIMELINE
1768: Louis Moinet is born in
Bourges, France
1806: The creation of a clock for
Napoleon Bonaparte, which marks
Louis Moinet’s beginning as a
master watchmaker
1816: Creation of the world’s first
chronograph
1848: Publication of Traité
d’Horlogerie
2004: Atelier Louis Moinet is
founded by J.M. Schaller
2016: introduction of the Memoris
chronograph
The world would never have had MB&F if it wasn’t for Henry-John Belmont,
then CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, who convinced a fresh-out-of-college
Maximilian Büsser to join his company with the proposition: would he
rather be one among 200,000 in a big corporation, or be among four or five
people who could save a beautiful company?
Following his stint at Jaeger-LeCoultre, Büsser joined Harry Winston to head
its watchmaking department. In seven years, Harry Winston Rare Timepieces
increased revenue from USD8 million to USD80 million. It was also there that
Büsser began the Opus series, where he realized he was happiest when developing
concept-style watches with his best mates in the industry. Thus, the idea for
MB&F (short for Maximilian Büsser and Friends) was born. The first Horological
Machine No. 1 was presented in 2007, a totally original timepiece with a threedimensional
figure-8 case designed by Eric Giroud, and a movement with four
barrels in parallel developed by Laurent Besse and Peter Speake-Marin. The
HM1 broke every convention in watchmaking and established MB&F’s place in
contemporary haute horlogerie. The Legacy Machine line was born in 2011 to
imagine machines that MB&F would have created 100 years ago. Today, MB&F
has presented 10 Horological Machines and seven Legacy Machines, each unique
and charming in its own way. Apart from these two lines, MB&F is also known for
its co-creations with clockmakers like L’Epée, and this year, its highly anticipated
collaboration with H. Moser & Cie.
TIMELINE
1998: BüsserbecomesCEOofHarry
Winston, where he created the groundbreaking
Opus series
2005: Motivated by the success of the
Opus series, Büsser sets off to create his
own brand, MB&F
2007: The three-dimensional
architecturalHorologicalMachineNo.1
is born
2011: The Legacy Machine debuts, the
first round-case design
2011: Opens MB&F M.A.D. Gallery to
house MB&F’s Horological Machines and
other mechanical art and sculptures
2016: Joins the Salon International de la
Haute Horlogerie (SIHH)
2019: Introduces the first ladies’
timepiece, the Legacy Machine FlyingT,
which won the Ladies’ Complication Prize
at GPHG
METROPOLIS MARS
Reference Number: LM-45.10.MA
Movement: Mechanical automatic
calibre LM45; hours, minutes, seconds;
48-hour power reserve.
Case: Steel, 43.2mm, water-resistant to
50m
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: On request; limited to 60 pieces
MEMORIS SCARAB
Reference Number: LM-54.70
Movement: Mechanical automatic
calibre LM54; hours, minutes,
monopusher chronograph; 48-hour
power reserve.
Case: Titanium; 46mm; water-resistant
to 50m
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: CHF 54,000
MEMORIS TITANIUM
Reference Number: LM-79.20.30
Movement: Mechanical automatic
calibre LM79; hours, minutes;
monopusher chronograph; 48-hour
power reserve
Case: Titanium; 46mm; water-resistant
to 50m
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: CHF 26,000; limited to 28 pieces
LM101 MB&F X H. MOSER
Movement: Manual-winding calibre; hours
and minutes; floating balance wheel with
Straumann double hairspring; 45-hour
power reserve
Case and dial: Stainless steel with domed
sapphire crystal; 40mm; fumé dial in
Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Red or Yas
Marina Blue
Strap: Calf leather with stainless-steel
and titanium folding clasp
Price: USD52,000; limited to 15 pieces in
HM NO. 10 “BULLDOG”
Movement: Manual-winding movement;
hours and minutes; power-reserve
indicator; 45-hour power reserve
Case and dial: Titanium; 54mm x 45mm x
24mm; water resistant to 50m
Strap: Blue calf leather with titanium
folding clasp
Price: USD105,000
LEGACY MACHINE FLYINGT IN RED
GOLD
Movement: Automatic FlyingT calibrE;
hours AND minutes; flying 60-second
tourbillon; 100-hour power reserve
Case and dial: Red gold; 38.5mm; white
lacquer dial over black guilloché dial
plate; bubble-shaped crystal; water
resistant to 30m
Strap: Calf or alligator leather with pin
buckle
Price: USD105,000; limited to 18 pieces
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Montblanc
Nomos
Founded in 1906 in Hamburg, Germany, Montblanc
first rose to international prominence for its writing
instruments. While it entered the field of watchmaking
as early as 1997, it was not until 14 years ago when the company
bought Minerva, an esteemed watch movement manufacturer
based in Villeret, Switzerland, and established its watchmaking
research institute, that it became part of the exclusive club of
luxury watchmakers.
From that moment on, the wealth of horology knowledge
from Minerva was to be supported and further developed
by Montblanc and Davide Cerrato, head of Montblanc’s
watchmaking and the mastermind behind the maison’s current
success. With Cerrato, Montblanc has been developing
timepieces rich in value-conscious creativity. Series like
Star Legacy, Heritage and 1858 lead a strong and unflappable
offensive that is redefining the concept of affordable
watchmaking.
The 1858 Geosphere is a beautiful world-timer watch that
essentially reshaped the category by virtue of its superb design
and functionality. The 2020 Geosphere now wears cool shades
of blue and white. Another highlight of Montblanc’s strengths’
is the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Limited Edition — a
monopusher chronograph in the tradition of those classic
timepieces of the mid-20th century that took advantage of the
superb chronographic techniques and know-how of Minerva.
Finally, fusing all the corners of our world is the Star Legacy
Orbis Terrarum, a true multi-time-zone watch that reinterprets
the classic graphic style of these watchmaking works of art,
taking advantage of an efficient mechanism that keeps the price
down without detracting from its innovative aesthetics.
In 1990, just a few weeks after the fall of the Berlin Wall, Ronald Schwertner founded
Nomos in the German town of Glashütte, deep in the heart of the Saxony. From its
humble beginnings, Nomos was characterized by the purity of its designs — where
style is at the service of function, as established by the Bauhaus movement that emerged
in Germany in the 1930s — and by high-quality mechanical movements, characterized
by the delicacy and precision of their finishings. Today, Glashütte is a term that defines
German watchmaking — the name itself is considered as a registered “designation
of origin” for German watchmaking — while Nomos is the nation’s number one
watchmaker. The firm boasts of being a genuine manufacture, producing 95 per cent of
the components used in its watches, including the balance spring.
This year, German watchmaking and Glashütte celebrate 175 years, as it was in
1845 that Ferdinand Adolph Lange founded his company in the town. As a proud local
company, Nomos pays tribute to those 175 years of watchmaking art here with three
limited-edition watches. To spearhead this subtle celebration, Nomos has chosen
the Ludwig, its most classically featured model with elongated Roman indices, the
chemin-de-fer minute track and, on the models that carry it, the date at three o’clock.
Additionally, for the commemorative Ludwigs, leaf-type hands were added.
The Ludwig Neomatik Date model crowns the capsule collection and incorporates the
DUW6101 automatic caliber with a date display that playfully employs Roman numerals
that distinguish it from other Ludwigs. The other two jubilee editions — Ludwig 175 Years
Watchmaking Glashütte and Ludwig Neomatik 39 — also feature a sapphire caseback
with a special celebratory inscription and are each limited to 175 pieces.
TIMELINE
1845: Ferdinand Lange starts his
watchmaking enterprise in Glashütte,
Saxony
1990: Nomos is founded in Glashütte
1992: First collections debut:
Tangente, Ludwig, Orion and Tetra
2005: The first automatic Nomos
Tangomat launches
2013: First gold-case watch: the
Lambda
2014: Creates the patented
Nomos Swing System, the brand’s
proprietary escapement
2015: Launch of the DUW 3001
miminatik caliber
2018: New DUW 6001 automatic
movement, presented in the new
Autobahn and Update
2019: First metal bracelet in the
Tangente Sport
STAR LEGACY ORBIS TERRARUM
Ref: 126108 (stainless steel)
Movement: Mechanical self-winding
caliber MB 29.20; hours, minutes,
multiple time zones; 42-hour power
reserve
Case: Steel; 43mm; sapphire caseback;
water-resistant to 50m
Strap: Crocodile leather with metalcoordinated
triple-fold clasp
Price: USD6,800
HERITAGE MANUFACTURE
PULSOGRAPH LIMITED EDITION
Ref: 126095
Movement: Manufacture manual-winding
calibre MB M13.21, hours, minutes,
seconds; monopusher chronograph
Case: 18K rose gold; 40mm; domed
sapphire glass box; water-resistant
to 50m
Strap: Brown sfumato alligator leather
Price: USD33,000
1858 GEOSPHERE
Ref: 125565
Movement: Self-winding, caliber MB
29.25; hours, minutes, second time zone;
42-hour power reserve
Case: Titanium; 42mm.
Strap: Crocodile leather strap or a new
bracelet.
Price: USD5,800 USD (leather strap);
USD6,200 (steel bracelet)
LUDWIG NEOMATIK DATE 175 YEARS
WATCHMAKING GLASHÜTTE
Movement: Mechanical self-winding
DUW 6101; hours, minutes and small
seconds; date; 42-hour power reserve
Case: Stainless-steel; 40.5mm; waterresistant
to 50m
Strap: Horween Shell Cordovan
Price: USD4,200
LUDWIG NEOMATIK 39 175 YEARS
WATCHMAKING GLASHÜTTE
Movement: Self-winding DUW 3001;
hours, minutes and small seconds; 43-
hour power reserve.
Case: Stainless-steel; 38.5mm; waterresistant
to 50m
Strap: Horween Shell Cordovan
Price: USD3,800
LUDWIG 175 YEARS WATCHMAKING
GLASHÜTTE
Movement: Self-winding Alpha; hours,
minutes and small seconds; 43-hour
power reserve
Case: Stainless-steel; 35mm; waterresistant
to 50m
Strap: Horween Shell Cordovan
Price: USD2,260
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Omega
Founded in 1848, Omega has long been a staple name in the realm
of Swiss watchmaking. It continues to remain synonymous with
watchmaking excellence, precision and innovation, and has
introduced many of the industry’s most groundbreaking technologies,
including the revolutionary Co-Axial escapement. In 2015, Omega
worked alongside the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS),
to create the Master Chronometer certification — the Swiss watch
industry’s highest standard of testing. The first watch to emerge from this
rigorous new testing was the Globemaster. The brand is also defined by
its pioneering spirit. In 1965, the Speedmaster was officially certified by
NASA for all manned missions. Omega watches accompanied astronauts
on all six lunar landings and remain an official part of NASA kit. Omega
is also the only watchmaker that has served as Official Timekeeper at the
Olympic Games for 28 times.
TIMELINE
1848: Watchmaker Louis Brandt founded La
Generale Watch Co., a predecessor of Omega,
in La Chaux-de-Fonds
1879: After Louis Brandt’s death in 1879, his
sons, César and Louis-Paul, take over the
business
1880: Under the new name Louis Brandt & Fils,
the company moves to the town of Biel/Bienne
1894: The Brandt brothers release the
legendary 19-ligne calibre and crown their new
achievement “Omega”
1903: The success of the movement is so
great that the brothers rename the company to
Omega Watch Co.
1932: Omega becomes the first watchmaker to
time an entire Olympic Games, a partnership
that still continues today
1948: The brand launches the now-iconic
Seamaster
1952: The first Constellation is born
1957: Three legends are born when OMEGA
introduces its Professional line of watches:
the Speedmaster, the Seamaster 300 and the
Railmaster
1962: Astronaut Wally Schirra wears his own
Speedmaster into space, making it the First
Omega in Space
1965: NASA qualifies the Speedmaster for space
flight
1969: The Speedmaster becomes the
“Moonwatch” thanks to the Apollo 11 mission
1970: The Omega Speedmaster plays an
important role in bringing astronauts from the
Apollo 13 mission back to Earth
1995: The Omega Seamaster becomes James
Bond’s watch
1999: Omega releases the Co-Axial escapement
2008: ThebrandreleasestheSi14balance
spring, which when pairs with its Co-Axial
movement gives watches outstanding reliability
and stability
2015: A new quality standard is created: Master
Chronometer
2017: Omega unveils its new building
2019: Omega re-introduces its legendary
caliber 321
OMEGA CONSTELLATION
Movement: Self-winding Master Chronometer caliber
8801; hours, minutes; date; power reserve of 55 hours
Case: 39mm; two-tone steel and 18K Sedna gold; waterresistant
to 50m
Strap: Matching two-tone steel and 18K Sedna gold
bracelet
Price: USD11,200
OMEGA DE VILLE TOURBILLON NUMBERED EDITION
Movement: Manual-winding Master Chronometer caliber
2640; hours, minutes and seconds displayed on central
tourbillon, power-reserve indicator; 72-hour power
reserve
Case: 43mm; 18K Canopus gold and 18K Sedna gold;
water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Black leather with gold buckle
Price: USD168,000
OMEGA SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN 600M 36TH
AMERICA’S CUP LIMITED EDITION
Movement: Self-winding Master Chronometer caliber
8900; hours, minutes and seconds; date; Co-Axial
escapement; 60-hour power reserve
Case: 43.5mm; stainless steel; ceramic bezel and dial;
water-resistant to 600m
Strap: Structured rubber strap
Price: USD7,050; limited to 2,021 pieces
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER MOONWATCH CHRONOGRAPH
TEAM ALINGHI
Movement: Manual-winding caliber 1865; hours and
minutes; small seconds; chronograph; regatta timer;
tachymeter; 48-hour power reserve
Case: 44.25mm; black ceramic; water-resistant to 50m
Strap: Perforated black and red rubber strap
Price: USD10,800
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Oris
Parmigiani Fleurier
The story of Oris began on the 1 June 1904, when Paul
Cattin and Georges Christian signed an agreement to
start a watchmaking adventure that has since spanned
several generations, based in the Swiss village of Hölstein.
Originally from Le Locle, watchmakers Cattin and
Christian saw an opportunity at hand to build a manufacture
in a village that was otherwise in financial turmoil in that time.
Their vision was to produce watches that utilized industrial
production methods without losing the emotional qualities of
Swiss watchmaking.
It was thanks to this vision that Oris became the largest
employer in the region by 1910 and one of the 10 largest watch
companies by the 1960s. Alas, like all of Swiss watchmaking,
Oris too was not spared the downturn during the Quartz
Crisis. But it persevered on, retaining its independence and its
core values.
Today, Oris is probably best known for their Divers
Sixty-Five family of dive watches, with vintage good looks and
no-nonsense tool-watch qualities. Another popular collection
from Oris is their ProPilot family of aviation-themed watches,
which are also robust tool watches.
The biggest leap the ProPilot collection has taken as of
late is with the ProPilot X, which is a daring new take on
Oris’s own watchmaking, with a clear 21st-century kick seen
in the titanium case and integrated bracelet that form
the watch.
Parmigiani Fleurier was founded in 1996, after the Sandoz
Family Foundation recognized the talent in Michel
Parmigiani as a watchmaker and gave him the right push
and resources to set up his own brand. Parmigiani, who had
spent most of his life restoring antique timepieces, including
Sandoz’s collection, and important pieces from the Musée
Patek Philippe and the Chàteau des Monts, built his brand
upon his immense knowledge, with a focus on traditional
finishings and beautifully made calibres. Today, the brand’s
CEO is Davide Traxler (Michel Parmigiani remains very much
involved in his brands but more behind-the-scenes), who
is refreshing the brand’s image with the release of the new
Tonda GT line, which has a more casual case shape and a more
attractive price point.
TIMELINE:
1976: Michel Parmigiani opens his workshop, restoring
antique pieces by day and dreaming up horological pieces by
night
1980: The Sandoz Family Foundation entrusts its collection
to Parmigiani for maintenance, and encourages him to create
his own brand
1996: The Parmigiani Fleurier brand is created
1999: The Toric QP Retrograde is unveiled
2000: TheacquisitionofLesArtisansBoîtiersallows
Parmigiani to become a vertical manufacture
2003: Vacher Manufacture Fleurier is created, specialising in
high-end watch movements
2004: Partnership with Bugatti
ORIS x MOMOTARO
Movement: Self-winding Oris caliber
733 movement; hours, minutes and
seconds; 38-hour power reserve
Case: 40mm; stainless-steel;
unidirectional rotating bezel with bronze
edge; water-resistant to 100m
Bracelet/Strap: Indigo Momotaro denim
with two white ‘battle stripes’; stainlesssteel
buckle
Price: USD2,200
ORIS HÖLSTEIN EDITION 2020
Movement: Self-winding Oris caliber
771 movement (Sellita 510 base); hours,
minutes and seconds at nine o’clock;
chronograph; 48-hour power reserve
Case: 43mm; bronze; unidirectional
rotating bronze bezel with bronze insert;
water-resistant to 100m
Bracelet/Strap: Multi-piece bronze
bracelet with folding clasp
Price: USD5,200; limited edition of 250
pieces
ORIS CARYSFORT REEF LIMITED
EDITION
Movement: Self-winding Oris caliber
798 movement (Sellita 330-1 base);
hours, minutes and seconds; GMT; 42-
hour power reserve
Case: 43.5mm; stainless-steel;
bidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic
insert; water-resistant to 300m
Bracelet/Strap: Stainless-steel bracelet
or orange rubber
Price: USD3,000 (bracelet), USD2,800
(rubber); limited edition of 2,000 pieces
TONDA GT ROSE GOLD BLUE
Movement: Self-winding caliber PF044;
hours and minutes; small seconds; big
date; 45-hour power reserve
Case: 18K rose gold; 42mm; blue
guilloché dial; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: 18K rose-gold bracelet or rubber
Price: USD49,500 (rose-gold bracelet) or
USD24,900 (rubber strap); limited to
150 pieces
TONDAGRAPH GT STEEL BLACK
Movement: Self-winding caliber PF043;
hours and minutes; small seconds; big
date; chronograph; annual calendar; 45-
hour power reserve
Case: Stainless steel; 42mm; black
guilloché dial; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Integrated stainless-steel bracelet,
orrubberstrap
Price: USD19,500 (bracelet) or
USD18,500 (rubber strap); limited to
200 pieces
TORIC TOURBILLON RED GOLD SLATE
Movement: Self-winding caliber PF517;
hours and minutes; 60-second tourbillon;
48-hour power reserve
Case: 18K red gold; 42.8mm; slatecoloured
guilloché dial; water-resistant
to 30m
Strap: Hermès Havana alligator with gold
pin buckle
Price: USD130,000; limited to 25 pieces
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Panerai
With roots dating back to the
1930s, Panerai has become
a modern-day phenomenon
with a collection of sporty, oversized
watches based on luminous diving
tools and timepieces created for the
Royal Italian Navy. With a manufacture
based in Neuchâtel, virtually all
movements get produced in-house, and
groundbreaking concepts and innovative
materials continually push the brand
forward. This spirit of adventure fuels
the narrative of the current collection,
with bold ambassadors and links to
America’s Cup and Prada’s Luna Rossa.
2020 is the year of the Luminor, with
new pieces paying homage to its history,
while pushing technical boundaries with
its innovative Laboratorio di Idee.
TIMELINE
1860: Officine Panerai Workshop opens
1916: FilesfortheRadiomirPatent
1936: The first Radiomir Prototype
1940: The introduction of the Radiomir
1940 case
1943: Introduction of the Mare Nostrum
1949: Radiomir is replaced by Luminor
1950: Luminor case is introduced
1956: Officine Panerai develops the
“Egiziano” for the Egyptian Navy
1993: The first pre-Vendôme Officine
Panerai Collection
2001: Officine Panerai’s international
launch
2002: Opening of the Panerai
Manufacture in Neuchâtel
2005: Officine Panerai’s first in-house
movement, P.2002
2010: Introduction of the Tribute to
Galileo Galilei
2011: Officine Panerai presents the
Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days
Automatic Bronzo
2012: Return of the historic 1940 case
2014: Officine Panerai opens its new
manufacture at Pierre-à-Bot, on the hills
of Neuchâtel
2016: Panerai launches the Radiomir
1940 Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon
GMT and the Luminor Due
LUMINOR LUNA ROSSA GMT
Reference Number: PAM1036
Movement: Calibre P.9010/GMT
automatic mechanical movement; hours
and minutes; small seconds; date; GMT
Case: 44mm; titanium DLC
Strap: Calf Ponte Vecchio black with
white stitching
Price: USD11,200
LUMINOR MARINA GOLDTECH SOLE
BLU
Reference Number: PAM01112
Movement: Calibre P.9010 automatic
mechanical movement; hours and
minutes; small seconds; date
Case: 44mm; brushed Panerai Goldtech
Strap: Dark-blue alligator with beige
stitching
Price: USD22,900
LUMINOR MARINA
Reference Number: PAM01117
Movement: Calibre P.9010 automatic
mechanical movement; hours and
minutes; small seconds; date
Case: 44mm; brushed titanium
Strap: Panerai Sportech blue with
white stitching
Price: USD18,900; limited edition of
270 units
PANERAI LUMINOR MARINA DMLS
Reference Number: PAM01162
Movement: Calibre P.9010 automatic
mechanical movement; hours and
minutes; small seconds; date
Case: 44mm; sandblasted DMLS titanium
with Carbotech bezel
Strap: Black Panerai Sportech with
anthracite stitching
Price: USD15,000
LUMINOR MARINA CARBOTECH
Reference Number: PAM01118
Movement: Calibre P.9010 automatic
mechanical movement; hours and
minutes; small seconds; date
Case: 44mm; Carbotech
Strap: Black fabric with white stitching
Price: USD16,000; limited edition of
270 units
LUMINOR MARINA
Reference Number: PAM01313
Movement: Calibre P.9010 automatic
mechanical movement; hours and
minutes; small seconds; date
Case: 44mm; brushed stainless steel
Strap: Dark-blue alligator with
beige stitching
Price: USD7,700
LUMINOR MARINA FIBRATECH
Reference Number: PAM01119
Movement: Calibre P.9010 automatic
mechanical movement; hours and
minutes; small seconds; date
Case: 44mm; Fibratech
Strap: Black fabric with white stitching
Price: USD18,900; limited edition of
270 units
LUMINOR MARINA FIBRATECH
VULCANO BLU
Reference Number: PAM01663
Movement: Calibre P.9010 automatic
mechanical movement; hours and
minutes; small seconds; date
Case: 44mm; Fibratech with
Carbotech bezel
Strap: Dark-blue Panerai Sportech with
white stitching
Price: USD16,000
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Patek Philippe
Post-Baselworld breakup, the industry (at least the media) held its collective
breath when Patek Philippe announced there would likely be no new
releases until 2021. An early Christmas present arrived mid-June when
Patek Philippe announced a steel Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 to celebrate the
completion of its new production building in Plan-les-Ouates in Geneva. A
modern timepiece in steel, the Calatrava hit all the right notes with an almost
casual look and sporty blue “carbon-style” textured dial and blue strap.
An even bigger surprise arrived mid-July, with the blockbuster
introduction of three additional Grand Complications. First, the Ref. 5270J-
001, a yellow-gold chronograph with a perpetual calendar; second, the Ref.
5370P-001, a platinum split-seconds chronograph; and lastly, the Ref.5303R,
a rose-gold minute-repeater tourbillon. Patek Philippe’s combination of
history, technical and artistic mastery, and blockbuster auction results, places
them entirely in a league of their own. There are few manufacturers that
are able to influence the pace and direction of an entire industry, and Patek
Philippe is one of them.
TIMELINE
1839: Patek, Czapek & Cie is founded
by Antoine Norbert de Patek and
François Czapek
1845: Patent for keyless winding and
hand-setting system
1868: Patek Philippe creates the first
Swiss wristwatch, made for Countess
Koscowicz of Hungary
1925: Patek Philippe creates its first
wristwatch with a perpetual calendar,
No. 97 975
1927: James Ward Packard collects his
astronomical pocket watch,
the No. 198 023
1932: The launch of the first Calatrava
1933: The “Graves” supercomplication
pocket watch is created for
Henry Graves Jr.
1968: Launch of the Golden Ellipse
1976: Launch of the first Nautilus
sport watch
1989: Launch of the Caliber 89 with
33 complications to mark 150 years of
Patek Philippe
1993: Launch of the Gondolo collection
1997: Launch of the Aquanaut
1999: Launch of the first Twenty~4
collection
2014: Patek Philippe celebrates its
175th anniversary
2015: Launch of the Calatrava Pilot
Travel Time, Ref. 5524G
2016: Launch of the
Grandmaster Chime
2018: Launch of the World Time Minute
Repeater, Ref. 5531R
2018: Launch of The Twenty~4
Automatic, Ref. 7300
2019: Launch of the Alarm Travel Time,
Ref. 5520P-001, and the Calatrava
Weekly Calendar, Ref. 5212A-001;
Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand
Exhibition in Singapore
GRAND COMPLICATIONS –
CHRONOGRAPH PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Reference Number: Ref. 5270J-001
Movement: Manual-winding CH 29-535
PS Q; hours, minutes; small seconds;
chronograph; instantaneous 30-minute
counter, perpetual calendar; date
Case: 41mm; yellow gold; waterresistant
to 30m
Strap: Chocolate-brown alligator leather
with square scales; fold-over clasp
Price: USD168,970
GRAND COMPLICATIONS – MINUTE
REPEATER TOURBILLON
Reference Number: Ref. 5303R-001
Movement: Manual-winding R TO 27
PS; hours and minutes; small seconds;
minute repeater with chime on two
classic gongs; tourbillon
Case: 42mm; rose gold
Strap Shiny black alligator leather with
square scales; fold-over clasp
Price: On request
CALATRAVA - NEW MANUFACTURE 2019
Reference Number: Ref.6007A Limited
Edition
Movement: Self-winding caliber 324 S C;
hours, minutes and seconds; date;
35-hour power reserve
Case: 40mm; stainless steel; waterresistant
to 30m
Strap: Grey-blue calfskin embossed with
afabricpattern
Price: On request; limited edition
of 1,000
GRAND COMPLICATIONS – SPLIT-
SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH
Reference number: Ref. 5370P-011
Movement: Manual-winding calibre
CHR 29-535 PS; hours, minutes and
seconds; split-seconds chronograph;
instantaneous 30-minute counter
Case: 41mm; platinum; water-resistant
to 30m
Strap: Shiny dusk blue alligator leather
with square scales; fold-over clasp
Price: USD263,090
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Piaget
Rado
The quest for ultimate thinness has always been at
the heart of Piaget. In 1874, at the very beginning of
Piaget’s existence, its founder Georges Édouard Piaget
dedicated his career to making high-precision movements,
and then later, ultra-thin movements. In 1957, the world
was introduced to the legendary caliber 9P, a hand-wound
movement that is only 2mm thick. The caliber 12P came later at
1960, and since then, more than 25 ultra-thin movements have
been developed at Piaget, each more impressive than the last.
Apart from ultra-thin, Piaget has always had an eye for
glamor. The modern-day Limelight Gala is inspired by a model
from 1973, when the brand’s famous Piaget Society was in its
heyday, harnessing the charm and influence of Salvador Dali,
Jackie Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor, Andy Warhol, Cary Grant
and Sammy Davis Jr. It was Piaget’s audacious spirit that
led it down the bold quest for ultra-thin, and it’s this same
audacity that inspires their watches, jewellery lines and artistic
endeavours today.
TIMELINE
1874: Georges Édouard Piaget sets up a workshop to make
high-precision movements for top Swiss brands
1943: Piaget, the brand, is registered and begins producing
their own watches in La Côte-aux-Fées
1945: New manufacture is built, with a reputation for ultrathin
movements
1957: Debuts the legendary caliber 9P
1960: Launches the caliber 12P
1964: Launches the world’s first hard-stone dials
1979: The Piaget Polo watch is launched
1998: The Piaget Altiplano is launched
2001: New manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates
2010: Sets world record for thinnest automatic movement
and thinnest automatic watch
2014: LaunchoftheAltiplano900Pat3.65mmthick
2018: The Altiplano Ultimate Concept is launched; the entire
watch measures just 2mm thick
Rado was born as the Schlup & Co. watchmaking company
by brothers Fritz, Ernst and Werner in 1917. Theirs was
a small workshop, set up within their parents’ home.
However, while their start was modest, by the end of World
War II they had became among the largest producers of watch
movements in the world.
The name Rado came into effect in the 1950s with the
Golden Horse collection of watches making its debut in 1957.
In 1958, the company followed through with the Green Horse
collection, which was their water-resistant timepiece. Before
the 1960s kicked in, Rado was an international brand present in
some 61 countries.
In the following decade, Rado developed a reputation for
using hard metal and for bringing sapphire crystals into the
watchmaking landscape. In fact, later in 1986, it was Rado that
was responsible for giving the Swiss watch industry its first
instance of a scratch-resistant bracelet in high-tech ceramic.
It is the company’s know-how in the use of ceramic that
truly sets them apart today as they were also the first to create
a completely integrated case and bracelet in ceramic, and then
going on to explore ever-more innovative forms of ceramic.
The turn of the new millennium saw Rado continue to push
the boundaries with ceramic, producing the ultra-slim True
Thinline, in 2011, measuring in at a mere 5mm thickness. These
all-ceramic watches opened up a new chapter for Rado and
made “high-tech design” its calling card. In 2012, the company
mastered ceramic such that they no longer even needed to use a
steel core, opting instead for a monobloc case in ceramic.
Today, Rado is having great success reintroducing many
of their vintage watch designs, but executing them in modern
proportions, such as the Captain Cook Bronze, the DiaStar
with a hard-metal bezel and the 1957 Golden Horse.
ALTIPLANO TOURBILLON INFINITE BLUE
Ref: G0A45043
Movement: Manual-winding caliber 670P;
hours and minutes; flying tourbillon;
48-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 41mm; 18K white gold;
blue sunburst PVD dial set with diamonds;
water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Blue alligator leather; white-gold
folding clasp set with diamonds
Price: On request; limited edition of 38
pieces
ALTIPLANO ULTIMATE CONCEPT
Ref: G0A45502
Movement: Manual-winding caliber 900P-
UC; hours and minutes; 40-hour power
reserve
Case and dial: 41mm; 2mm total
thickness; cobalt alloy; customizable dial
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: On request; limited production
LIMELIGHT GALA
Ref: G0A45163
Movement: Caliber 690P quartz
movement; hours and minutes
Case and dial: 32mm; 18K white gold set
with 20 diamonds and 22 blue sapphires;
18K white-gold engraved dial with blue
grand-feu enamel
Strap: Integrated 18K white-gold bracelet
Price: On request
RADO CAPTAIN COOK BRONZE
AUTOMATIC
Movement: Self-winding ETA C07
movement; hours, minutes and running
seconds; date; 80-hour power reserve
Case: Bronze case and rotating bezel with
ceramic insert; 42mm; 12.5mm thick;
water resistant to 300m
Strap: Leather with brushed bronze pin
buckle; Easy Clip system
Price: USD2,600
GOLDEN HORSE AUTOMATIC
Ref. R33930313 | 01.763.3930.4.031
Movement: Self-winding ETA C07.611
movement; hours, minutes and running
seconds; date; 80-hour power reserve
Case: Stainless-steel case; 37mm;
10.8mm thick; green dial; water-resistant
to 50m
Strap: Stainless-steel rice grain type
bracelet or leather strap
Price: USD1,800 (bracelet); USD1,700
(leather strap), non-numbered limited
edition of 1,957 pieces.
TRUE THINLINE ANIMA
Movement: Self-winding ETA A31.L02,
fully skeletonized; hours, minutes and
seconds; date; 64-hour power reserve
Case: Plasma ceramic, mono-bloc
construction in olive green; 40mm;
10.8mm thick; water resistant to 30m
Strap: Matte olive green ceramic with
titanium triple-folding clasp
Price: USD3,000, non-numbered limited
edition of 2,020 pieces.
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Everything that has happened this year with respect
to the pandemic and the economic repercussions
that, without discussion, have generated problems
throughout the world, invites us to pause and act
responsibly in the face of the uncertainties that each of
us may (or will) encounter on our respective paths.
But let us not let negativity bog us down. There is a
margin for us to indulge in our hobbies and passions, but
by means of a wise, conscious and responsible approach.
It would be foolish to insist on maintaining our lifestyles
without regard or restriction, but it is not unreasonable
to make some well-thought-out and financially
responsible adjustments that will allow us to continue
on the path of our horological love without breaking any
bank accounts or mortgaging the future.
I therefore invite you to take a look at a few of the
opportunities that the watch industry has offered us in
recent months. In particular, let’s talk about high-value
proposals, understood as attractive watches of great
quality and indisputable lineage and origin, which we can
buy and then wear with pride and satisfaction… and for
relatively little money.
For this selection, I focused on mechanical watches
launched this year. Of course, there’s nothing wrong
with opting for a quartz watch, or even a smartwatch.
The best watch is the one you like, no matter what I tell
you, but I thought it was essential to stick to mechanical
proposals because, believe me, they are more plentiful
and glorious than ever. I have limited the pieces to the
ones priced under USD5,000. (Note: official suggested
retail prices will vary a little in each region, depending on
conversion rates and taxes.)
While not all of these watches are available in
all regions, but it is our hope that they will serve as
inspiration and a starting point for your hunt for a new
“favorite” watch — that is, as we say in Mexico, a watch
that is good, nice and cheap.
The Hunt for the Best Values
LONGINES SPIRIT (L3.820.4.73.2)
Where to start with Longines? In recent
years, its vintage-inspired watchmaking
has earned a stellar place in the hearts
of collectors. But I chose the new and
modern Spirit chronograph (42mm) as a
recognition of the great offerings that the
houseofSaint-Imieralwayshasforall
of us.
Price: USD3,100
TUDOR BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT NAVY
BLUE (79030B)
In the last few weeks you will have read
everything there is to know about this
awesome Tudor diver with its terrific blue
dial, but once again, let’s hail its great
overall package of technique, pedigree
and beauty.
Price: USD3,500
ALPINA SEASTRONG DIVER HERITAGE
BROWN (AL-525BR4H4)
This superb diver comes at a fabulous
price and also offers a touch of autumn
fashion with its brown dial and 42mm
caseinbronzePVD,watertightto300m,
and the AL-525 automatic calibre — tet
another example of value emanating
from Alpina and Frédérique Constant.
Price: USD1,595
Words Israel Ortega
ORIS ORIS X MOMOTARO DIVERS
SIXTY-FIVE (733 7707 4337)
One of the most beautiful watches of
the year is this diver from Oris, another
example of its relentlessly valuable
watchmaking. The Oris X Momotaro, with
its faded green dial, bronze insert bezel
and Japanese denim strap, is a wonder
worthy of any collection.
Price: USD2,200
NOMOS LUDWIG NEOMATIK 41
DATE — 175 YEARS WATCHMAKING
GLASHÜTTE (261.S1)
Ever a personal favorite, this year Nomos
celebrates 175 years of Glashütte as the
watchmaking capital of Germany. The
classic Ludwig, with its Roman numerals
(even on the date!) and the gorgeous
manufacture neomatik calibre, is a
timeless Bauhaus beauty.
Price: USD4,200
SEIKO PRESAGE (SPB129)
Oneofmyfavoritewatchesthisyear
is the Seiko Presage in green, a limited
edition watch of 1,964 pieces that
was inspired by the 1964 Seiko Crown
Chronograph. There is no bad Seiko, but
this Presage, available in green, white
orblack,isanamazingtreasurewithan
unbeatable price.
Price: USD825
MONTBLANC 1858 MONOPUSHER
CHRONOGRAPH (125581)
Finding a new monopusher chronograph
from an established brand may sound
like an Ethan Hunt-worthy mission, but
Montblanc just showed us otherwise with
this piece from the lovely 1858 series. It
is another example of the values that the
Minerva culture has instilled throughout
Montblanc.
Price: USD4,900
BAUME ET MERCIER CLIFTON
BAUMATIC (10548)
It would be remiss of us not to propose
an elegant watch. So consider the new
Clifton Baumatic, with a Baumatic
manufacture caliber bearing a great
calendar-with-moonphase indication that
stands out against a very attractive grey
face. Yep, this one’s a winner.
Price: USD4,400
TAG HEUER AQUARACER 43MM
TORTOISESHELL EFFECT (WAY201P.
FT6177)
This updated and very attractive Aquaracer
serves as a good ending point for this
Kafkaesque summer. With a larger 43mm
case,TAGHeuer’saffordabledivershows
off a couple of new simulated tortoiseshell
bezels (in red or blue), giving it a very chic
look that rounds up the look and feel of this
automatic timepiece.
Price: USD2,600
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Reservoir
Richard Mille
The French company Reservoir was founded in 2015 on the initiative of François
Moreau, a businessman with a passion for watches and cars. From the outset he
had a very clear idea: to offer valuable and highly distinguishable watchmaking,
based on recognisable technical qualities.
All Reservoir watches feature a jumping hour, retrograde minutes and a power reserve
indicator. All elements follow the clear inspiration of measuring instruments, whether
for motor racing, aeronautics or navigation. This is a feat as technical as it is commercial,
if we understand that these complications are not widespread and, by definition, are
not necessarily affordable. However, Reservoir broke with this paradigm by offering
its Swiss-made complication — an ETA 2824/2 movement to which the firm added its
patented module of 124 components — at a remarkable price.
The new creation, the GT Tour Skeleton, takes its aesthetics further by visually
“lightening” the time display with retrograde minutes, a discreet jumping hour and the
power reserve at six o’clock. The transparent dial shows how the deep blue bridges of the
movement contrast with the brushed steel of the complications.
Accompanying the skeletonized GT Tour are the other variants of the classic motoring
–inspired series that are more conventional in appearance yet still undeniably attractive.
In the steel-cased model, the matte black face and the orange minute hand are inspired by
the contrast of these two colors in a racing car gauge, allowing for maximum legibility.
TIMELINE
2015: Founding of the brand by
François Moreau
2018: Debut of the Longbridge,
Reservoir’s purest and most classic
watch, inspired by vintage motoring
2019: Launch of Hydrosphere, the
first diver’s watch by Reservoir
When Richard Mille, the man, set out to create his
brand, he wasn’t making a watch, but rather carving
out a philosophy. His was the summation of a totally
new belief system that required every aspect of the watch —
from the way it was conceptualised, to the way it was built, to
the materials it used, to its resulting aesthetic — was the result
of this global system focused on three things: ultimate shockresistance,
ultimate lightness and ultimate ergonomics.
Armed with this philosophy, Mille created his first watch,
the RM 001, which, despite its $135,000 price tag (at the time
twice that of the next most expensive tourbillon by Breguet),
was sold out in less than 30 minutes.
From there, Mille went on to be the first to create a
baseplate in full carbon fibre, as well as invent the variablegeometry
rotor, the declutchable rotor, the mechanical G-force
sensor, laminated sapphire crystal — to name just a small
handful of the innovations that are attributed to the brand.
Richard Mille is also known be the first watchmaker to put a
watch on the wrists of elite athletes in the heat of competition.
It started with Felipe Massa donning a Richard Mille watch
throughout the complete durations of races, and of course,
Rafael Nadal has not appeared on court without a Richard Mille
strapped to his wrist since the first time he wore the 20-gram
RM 027 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal at the 2010 French Open.
As for Massa, the story goes that having met with a devastating
accident during the 2009 Hungarian Grand Prix qualifying
stages, while in the hospital, he was very clear to point out
that the RM 006 he had strapped to his wrist was still keeping
perfect time.
Richard Mille stands today as a global cultural phenomenon,
preferred by artists and sports stars at the height of their fields.
All of this the brand has managed while continuing to push
horological boundaries, most recently with the introduction of
graphene into watchmaking, as seen in the case and movement
of the ultralight 38-gram RM 50-03, as the proprietary Graph
TPT®.
GT TOUR SKELETON
Reference Number: RSV01.GT/430-02
Movement: Mechanical automatic
ETA 2824-2 with patented proprietary
module; 37-hour power reserve
Functions: Jumping digital hours; central
retrograde minutes; power-reserve
indicator
Case: Titanium; 43mm; water-resistant
to 50m
Strap: Calf leather, fabric NATO strap
Price: USD6,300
GT TOUR BLUE EDITION
Reference Number: RSV01.GT/130-32
Movement: Mechanical automatic
ETA 2824-2 with patented proprietary
module; 37-hour power reserve
Functions: Jumping digital hours; central
retrograde minutes; power-reserve
indicator
Case: Steel; 43mm; water-resistant to
50m
Strap: Calf leather, fabric NATO strap
Price: USD4,000
GT TOUR CARBON
Reference Number: RSV11.GT/530-11
Movement: Mechanical automatic
ETA 2824-2 with patented proprietary
module; 37-hour power reserve.
Functions: Jumping digital hours; central
retrograde minutes; power-reserve
indicator
Case: Laminated carbon; 43mm; water
resistant to 50m
Strap: Calf leather, fabric NATO strap
Price: USD6,000, limited to 200 pieces
RM 11-05 AUTOMATIC FLYBACK
CHRONOGRAPH GMT
Movement: Self-winding caliber RMAC3;
hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph
with 60-minute and 24-hour totalizers;
annual calendar with date and month
display; 50-hour power reserve
Case: 50.00 x 42.70 x 16.15 mm; front
bezel in grey Cermet, caseband in
Carbon TPT® and caseback in Grade 5
titanium; water resistant to 50m
Price: CHF204,000
Limited edition of 140 pieces
RM 11-04 AUTOMATIC FLYBACK
CHRONOGRAPH ROBERTO MANCINI
Movement: Self-winding caliber
RMAC3 in Grade 5 titanium with flyback
chronograph; annual calendar; large
date; 55-hour power reserve
Case: 44.5 x 49.94 x 16.5mm in
Carbon TPT®
Price: CHF185,000
RM 61-01 ULTIMATE EDITION YOHAN
BLAKE
Movement: Manual-winding caliber
RMUL2; hours, minutes, seconds; 55-
hour power reserve
Case: 50.23 x 42.70 x 15.84 mm; bezel
and caseback are made from Quartz
TPT® and Carbon TPT®, with the latter
material also featured on the caseband
and the large crown protectors
Price: CHF143,000
Limited edition of 150 pieces
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Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis established his eponymous company in 1995,
having spent his earlier years at Longines, and then at
Patek Philippe, where he stayed for the better part of two
decades. The two collections that first debuted were extremely
elegant and detailed timepieces with baroque cases — striking a
fine balance between traditional crafts and avant-garde design.
Roger Dubuis had extremely stringent criteria for his watches,
taking care to machine watches that met the requirements of
the Geneva Seal, a tradition that the modern Roger Dubuis
timepieces have kept to today.
The modern Roger Dubuis brand looks and feels very
different from its beginnings, but the spirit of innovation and
originality remain. Since 2017, Roger Dubuis has announced
two partnerships with Lamborghini and Pirelli, which pushed its
watchmaking to new heights, taking inspiration and technology
from the motorsports sector and applying elements of it into its
watchmaking. In the words of CEO Nicola Andreatta: “At Roger
Dubuis, everything we do is about our mentality; it’s about the idea
of going beyond what is considered normal.”
TIMELINE
1985: Roger Dubuis is established; the first collections,
Hommage and Sympathie, appear
1999: Manufactures movements in-house, all certified as
chronometers by the Besançon Observatory and with the
Geneva Seal
2001: New facilities in Meyrin (Geneva) opens
2003: Produces its own balance wheels
2005: Debut of the Excalibur collection; the first skeletonized
tourbillon (RD01SQ) and first tourbillon with minute repeater
(RD08) appear
2008: Becomes part of the Richemont Group, fully acquired
by 2016
2016: Twokeycollectionsareestablished:Excaliburand
Velvet
2017: Roger Dubuis dies. The use of innovative materials,
such as cobalt and carbon, is accelerated. Beginning of the
relationship with Pirelli and Lamborghini
EXCALIBUR TWOFOLD
Movement: Manual-winding caliber
RD01SQ; hours, minutes, seconds;
double-tourbillon; 50-hour power
reserve.
Case: Mineral composite fiber, titanium
caseback, 45mm; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Rubber with SuperLuminova
treatment
Price: USD276,000
Limited edition of 8 pieces.
EXCALIBUR SPIDER HURACAN
Movement: Self-winding caliber RD630;
hours, minutes and seconds; date; 60-
hour power reserve
Case: Titanium black DLC; 45mm; waterresistant
to 50m
Strap: Rubber and Alcantara
Price: USD49,000
EXCALIBUR DIABOLUS IN MACHINA
Movement: Manual-winding caliber
RD107; hours, minutes, seconds; minute
repeater; 72-hour power reserve
Case: CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur
composite, titanium caseback, 45mm,
water-resistant to 30m
Strap: 3D calf leather
Price: USD571,000, unique piece
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Rolex
Seiko
Rolex is one of those brands that always keep people on the edge of their
seats, speculating about what they will release next, and this year is
no different. What we do know is that Rolex is evolutionary and not
revolutionary, and the next batch of watches to come out of Geneva will be solid,
well-thought-out and highly nuanced offerings.
Rolex remains arguably the most recognisable and well-known luxury watch
brand on the planet, and its power extends not only to modern watches with
extensive waiting lists, but also to vintage pieces that are continuing to break
auction records year after year. The brand also has a veritable jukebox full of
self-penned hits, including goliaths such as the Submariner, Daytona, GMT-
Master, Explorer, Day-Date and Datejust. And one thing that they have proven
time after time is that these watches can be tweaked: dressed up in precious
metal and diamonds, dressed down in pure tool-watch mode and everywhere in
between, proving that they are timeless and limitlessly versatile watches.
If the Submariner isn’t the most recognisable watch ever produced, then it is
certainly the most imitated. If you ask a child to draw a watch, they will probably
draw a Sub, and yet the heritage of the brand’s sports watches is steeped in
sporting, military and scientific pursuits.
The dress watches from Rolex are no less conspicuous in life, having been
worn by presidents and world leaders for generations. And the signature feature
tying all these factors together is none other than the Oyster case. I’ve said this
before and will probably keep on saying it, but in my mind, the Oyster case is
one of the key designs of the 20th century and it is still as relevant today as it was
in the 1920s.
TIMELINE
1905: Hans Wilsdorf starts a company in
London specialising in the distribution of
timepieces
1920: Montres Rolex S.A. is registered in
Geneva
1926: Hans Wilsdorf launches the Oyster
case, creating the first waterproof watch
1927: The Testimonee concept is born
1931: The first self-winding wristwatch
with a perpetual rotor is launched
1933: The first expedition to fly over
Mount Everest is equipped with Rolex
Oysters
1945: The Datejust, equipped with the
Jubilee bracelet and a fluted bezel, is
born
1953: Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing
Norgay reach the summit of Mount
Everest and the Explorer is launched
in celebration; the first Submariner is
launched that same year, the first diver’s
watch waterproof to a depth of 100m
1954: Rolex unveils the dual-time-zone
GMT-Master
1956: Rolex introduces the Day-Date for
exceptional men and women
1960: The experimental bathyscaphe,
the Trieste, descends into the Mariana
Trench, 10,916m deep, with the Rolex
Deep Sea Special experimental watch
attachedontheoutside
1963: The Daytona chronograph is born
1967: The Sea-Dweller, waterproof to
610m, is launched
1976: The Rolex Awards for Enterprise is
launched
2000: The in-house chronograph calibre
4130 is released
2005: Rolexdevelopsandpatentsthe
Cerachrom bezel and the blue Parachrom
hairspring
2012: The Deepsea Challenge brings the
experimental watch down to depths of
12,000m
As Grand Seiko takes its bows for
its esteemed 60th anniversary, the
Seiko division of the Seiko Holding
Company provides a more entry-level
offering with the same shared heritage and
history of innovation. Founded in 1881,
Seiko has evolved from a shop selling and
repairing watches into a global leader
offering dress and sport watches with
mechanical and quartz movements. There
is something for every discriminating
buyer, from the more formal Presage
mechanical watches to the beloved sporty
Prospex divers. The remarkable Astron
adjusts to your current time zone by
connecting to the GPS network and never
needs a battery change by getting its energy
needs from light. The relaunched 5 Sports
delivers a fresh new look to the incredibly
well-priced tool-watch-inspired
collection. Coutura offers perpetual
chronographs and kinetic watches with
incredible functionality, all for under
USD1,000.
LUKIA
Reference Number: SPB135 Kurenai
Movement: Automatic Caliber 6R35;
hours, minutes, seconds; date
Case: 34.8mm stainless steel; waterresistant
to 100m
Strap: Interchangeable crocodile strap;
three-fold clasp with push-button
release
Price: USD1,300
PRESAGE ARITA PORCELAIN DIAL
LIMITED EDITION
Reference Number: SBP171
Movement: Automatic Caliber 6R27;
hours, minutes, seconds; power-reserve
indicator; 45-hour power reserve
Case: 40.6mm stainless steel; waterresistant
to 100m
Strap: Crocodile; three-fold clasp with
push-button release
Price: USD2,050; limited to 2,000 pieces
PRESAGE STUDIO GHIBLI PORCO
ROSSO COLLABORATION LIMITED
EDITIONS
Reference Number: SNR047
Movement: Automatic Spring Drive
caliber 5R65; hours, minutes, seconds;
date; power-reserve indicator
Case: 40mm stainless steel; waterresistant
to 100m
Strap: Crocodile; three-fold clasp with
push-button release
Price: USD5,600; limited to 500 pieces
SPORT TITANIUM GREEN DIAL
LIMITED EDITION
Reference Number: SSH071
Movement: Caliber 5X53; GPScontrolled
time and time-zone
adjustment; perpetual calendar; world
time with 39 time zones.
Case: 42.8mm titanium
Strap: Titanium bracelet
Price: USD2,700; limited to 2,000 pieces
THE 1965 DIVER’S RE-CREATION
Reference Number: SLA037
Movement: Automatic Caliber 8L55;
hours, minutes, seconds; stop seconds;
date; 55-hour power reserve
Case: 44.8mm; Ever-Brilliant steel;
water-resistant to 200m
Strap: Silicone
Price: USD6,300; limited to 1,100 pieces
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Tudor
Sometimes a watch brand just hits the spirit of the times
and launches a watch that is perfect for the moment.
As the world slowly emerged from its Covid-induced
lockdown, the House of Wilsdorf felt the time was right to
launch the latest watch from Tudor. Wilsdorf’s vision for
Tudor was a watch that delivered all the hallmark qualities of
Rolex, but at a more accessible price point. And that’s what
the Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue” offers in spades: a
super-high-quality dive watch at a relatively affordable
price point.
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is more than just a modern dive
watch — it is a timepiece steeped in military history with a
long family line of service in navies all around the globe. In
fact, the number in its name refers to the year in which Tudor
launched their first “big crown” dive watch, the reference
7924: 1958. The reference 7924 was issued to divers in
both the French Navy and the US Navy, the former actually
becoming research and development partners with the brand.
It was this relationship that led to the development of one of
Tudor’s key signatures, the snowflake hands. The hands were
born out of the necessity for the divers to have a more legible
handset and began to appear on watches in 1969. The 1970s
saw the use of blue snowflake-hand Tudor dive watches such
as the references 7016 and 9401. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight
“Navy Blue” celebrates and combines elements from three
decades of the brand’s diving watches in one watch that is
ready to rock in the 21st century.
A few weeks later, Tudor unveiled a whole new line initially
intended for the Greater China market. The Tudor Royal
is inspired by the integrated-bracelet watches of the early
1970s, a time when Tudor had a number of watches in this
configuration, including the Chrono-Time and Ranger 2.
The house has also dusted down the Royal moniker, which it
first began using in the early 1950s to give Tudor Oysters a
regal air of nobility. The Royal collection comprises date and
date-and-day configurations in both steel and steel and gold
(S&G in Tudor parlance). The watches are also available in
four sizes —41mm, 38mm, 34mm and 28mm — with a range
of nine different dials including applied Roman numerals and
mother of pearl with diamond-set indices.
TUDOR ROYAL
Reference numbers: 28600/3, 28500/3, 28400/3, 28300/3
Movement: Self-winding mechanical movement caliber
2834 (41 mm), or caliber 2824 (38mm and 34 mm) or
caliber 2671 (28 mm)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; date and day (41mm)
ordate(othersizes)
Case: 41mm, 38mm, 34mm or 28 mm; 316L steel case
Strap: Integrated bracelet in 316L steel, or 316L steel and
18K yellow gold with folding clasp and safety catch
Price: CHF2,200 to CHF3,750
TIMELINE
1926: Hans Wilsdorf establishes Tudor
1954: First Tudor dive watch is launched
1969: Snowflake hands are introduced
2010: The Heritage collection is
launched
2012: The Black Bay is launched
2015: Tudor launches its first in-house
movement
2018: The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is
launched
2020: The Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy
Blue” and Tudor Royal are launched
BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT “NAVY BLUE”
Reference number: 79030B
Movement: Self-winding manufacture caliber MT5402
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
Case: 39mm; 316L steel
Strap: Steel riveted bracelet; blue “soft touch” with
folding clasp or fabric strap
Price: USD3,700 on bracelet or USD3,375 on strap
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TAG Heuer
When it comes to watches that embody the power and the passion of
motorsports, one brand is right at the top of the list: TAG Heuer.
Founded by Edouard Heuer in 1860, and continuing under the Heuer
name until it was acquired by Techniques d’Avant Garde (TAG) in 1985, the brand
is most famous for its chronographs, which were born as functional tools in the
golden age of racing, but rapidly became style statements in their own right.
TAG Heuer’s prominence in the automotive space can be attributed to one
man: Jack Heuer. The fourth-generation Heuer took up leadership in 1958 and
rapidly cemented the brand as the go-to brand for racing. In 1962, he released
the Autavia, a utility-focused watch that took its name from a portmanteau of
automotive and aviation. A year later, Heuer released what would become its
flagship chronograph family, the Carrera, which took its name from a hazardous
American road race.
As the 1960s rolled on, Heuer didn’t take its foot off the gas, and in 1969
the brand — along with a consortium of other Swiss makers — announced an
automatic chronograph movement, which Heuer called the Caliber 11. Long
held to be one of the most impressive feats of watchmaking, the Caliber 11
quickly featured in the Carrera, Autavia, and of course, the Monaco. The last
watch stood out not just because of the distinctive square case shape, but also
for that fact that it was prominently seen on the wrist of the King of Cool himself,
Steve McQueen, in the epic 1971 racing film Le Mans. These three collections are
still key in TAG Heuer’s lineup, and last year, the Monaco celebrated its 50th
birthday — still looking as cool as ever.
As 1999 ushered in a new millennium, it also ushered in new ownership for
TAG Heuer, in the form of the LVMH group. This era also ushered in some of
TAG Heuer’s most exciting watchmaking developments, such as the cuttingedge
Monaco V4, the Mikrotimer and the Mikrogirder, as well as the equally
high-tech (though more accessibly priced) Connected Watch. This Swiss luxury
smartwatch continues to demonstrate TAG Heuer’s avant-garde spirit.
TIMELINE
1860: Heuer founded by Edouard Heuer
1887: Heuer patents on an ‘oscillating
pinion’, allowing for instant start/stop in
a chronograph mechanism
1911: Heuer designs ‘Time of Trip’
dashboard chronograph
1914: Heuer releases the first wrist
chronograph
1958: Jack Heuer becomes the fourth
generation to lead the company
1962: The Autavia chronograph is
released
1963: Heuer introduces the Carrera
chronograph
1969: Heuer, as part of a consortium,
introduces the Caliber 11, a pioneering
automatic chronograph, and the first
available globally
1969: Heuer introduces the Monaco; the
square chronograph goes on to become
an icon
1979: Heuer introduces dive watches
into the collection
1985: Techniques d’Avant Garde
acquires Heuer, and the brand becomes
TAG Heuer
1986: TheTAGHeuerFormula1is
released
1999: LVMH acquires TAG Heuer
2010: TAG Heuer releases the Caliber
1887
2015: TAG Heuer releases the
Connected Watch, the first Swiss luxury
smartwatch
2019: The Monaco turns 50
TAG HEUER CARRERA 160 YEARS
SILVER LIMITED EDITION
Movement: Caliber Heuer 02;
automatic; hours, minutes; chronograph
with 1/4 seconds and 30-minute
counters; eight-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 39mm stainless steel;
water-resistant to 100m; silver dial
Strap: Black alligator leather
Price: USD6450, limited to 1,860 pieces
TAG HEUER FORMULA 1 FRAGMENT
DESIGN
Movement: Caliber Heuer 02;
automatic; hours, minutes; chronograph
with 1/4 seconds and 30-minute
counters; eight-hour power reserve
Case and dial: Brushed and polished
stainless steel; 44mm; water-resistant
to100m;blackdial
Band: Stainless-steel bracelet with
brushed and polished finishes
Price: USD6,150, limited to 500 pieces
TAG HEUER CARRERA MONTREAL
Movement: Caliber Heuer 02;
automatic; hours, minutes; chronograph
with 1/4 seconds and 30-minute
counters; eight-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 39mm stainless steel;
water-resistant to 100m; white dial
Strap: Black alligator leather
Price: USD6,750, limited to 1,000 pieces
TAG HEUER MONACO GRAND PRIX DE
MONACO HISTORIQUE
Movement: Caliber Heuer 02;
automatic; hours, minutes; chronograph
with 1/4 seconds and 30-minute
counters; eight-hour power reserve
Case and dial: Brushed and polished
stainless steel; 39mm; water-resistant
to 100m; red dial
Strap: Black leather
Price: USD7,050, limited to 1,000 pieces
TAG HEUER CARRERA
Movement: Caliber Heuer 02;
automatic; hours, minutes; chronograph
with 1/4 seconds and 30-minute
counters; eight-hour power reserve
Case and dial: Brushed and polished
stainless steel; 44mm; water-resistant
to 100m; circular-brushed green dial
Band: Stainless-steel bracelet with
brushed and polished finishes
Price: USD5,750
TAG HEUER CONNECTED
Movement: Qualcomm Snapdragon
Wear 3100 processor; 430 mAh battery
Case and dial: Steel; 45mm; waterresistant
to 50m; fixed ceramic bezel;
1.39” OLED display
Band: Stainless-steel with folding pushbutton
clasp
Price: USD2,000
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Ulysse Nardin
Ulysse Nardin is the marine-inspired manufacture that creates watches
for those who love exploration. Founded in 1846 by Ulysse Nardin, the
house, with its powerful tradition in marine chronometry, has the merit
of having written some of the best chapters in the history of horology. A pioneer
in the innovative use of materials such as silicon, Ulysse Nardin is one of the few
maisons with the in-house experience and expertise needed to produce its own
high-precision components and movements.
With the enormous responsibility of continuing this tradition of marineinspired
chronometry, the company has continued to explore the field in a variety
of ways, always maintaining its banner of innovative technique. The Freak X is
one of its pieces that thrives bearing all these values.
Made of a combination of carbon fiber and red epoxy resin, each Freak X
Magma is unique, ultra-lightweight and shock resistant. With a black leather
strap stitched in red and equipped with a folding buckle, this piece evokes
obsidian volcanic rock and the color of lava. At the opposite end is the Freak X
Ice, which comes cool and assertive in a titanium case and with a white rubbercoated
strap. Both watches use the innovative UN-230 caliber, a fascinating
work of watchmaking expertise. This movement — a clever fusion of the UN-
118 and UN-280 movements, the latter one used by the Freak Vision — is, by
definition, a tourbillon where the continuously rotating escapement system is
also part of the time display.
And, true to his admiration for the seas and their mysterious latitudes, Ulysse
Nardin continues with his evolutions inspired by extreme navigation, with the
Diver X Nemo Point being a shining example. The Ulysse Nardin Diver X Nemo
Point is a robust and elegant sports timepiece. The UN-118 movement brings
the watch to life, with a blue “X” embossed on the dial, while the course of the
Vendée Globe nautical race and the coordinates of the notorious Nemo Point are
engraved on the back.
TIMELINE
1846: Ulysse Nardin starts his
company in Le Locle
1867: First precision certification
granted by the Neuchâtel
Observatory
1902: First marine chronometers
delivered to the United States Navy
1975: The Neuchâtel Observatory
reportsthat,between1846and
1975, Ulysse Nardin achieved 4,324
high-performance certificates for its
marine chronometers
1983: Rolf Schneider acquires the
company
1985: First Trilogy of Time watches
appear
1996: The Marine Chronometer
1846 and the Classic Perpetual
Ludwig are born
2001: Delivery of first Freak
2011: Ulysse Nardin acquires Donzé
Cadrans, the expert dials workshop
2012: First in-house automatic
caliber, the UN-118
DIVER X CAPE HORN
Ref: 1183-170LE/92-CAP
Movement: Automatic caliber UN-118;
hours, minutes, small seconds, power
reserve indicator, date; 60-hour power
reserve
Case: Titanium black DLC case with
titanium and carbon bezel; 44mm;
special engraving on the caseback;
water-resistant to 300m
Strap: Fabric strap with Velcro closing
Price: USD9,900
DIVER X ANTARTICA LIMITED EDITION
Ref: 1183-170LE/90-ANT
Movement: Automatic caliber UN-118;
hours, minutes, small seconds, forward
and backward date corrector; 60-hour
power reserve
Case: Titanium with white rubberized
bezel; 44mm; water-resistant to 300m
Strap: Rubber and pin buckle strap
Price: USD8,900
LADY DIVER GREAT WHITE LIMITED
EDITION
Ref: 8163-182LE-3/11-GW
Movement: Automatic caliber UN-816;
hours, minutes, seconds, 42-hour power
reserve
Case and dial: 39mm steel; gray dial with
diamond markers; water-resistant
to 300m
Strap: White rubber; limited edition of
300 pieces only
Price: On request
FREAK X MAGMA
Ref: 2302-270/MAGMA
Movement: Automatic caliber UN-230;
hours, minutes; 60-minute revolving
escapement; 72-hour power reserve
Case: Carbon and resin with titanium
bezel; 43mm; water-resistant to 50m
Strap: Calf leather
Price: USD30,000
Boutique exclusive limited to 250
pieces only.
FREAK X ICE
Ref: 2302-270/ICE
Movement: Automatic caliber UN-230;
hours, minutes; 60-minute revolving
escapement; 72-hour power reserve
Case: Titanium, white coated; 43mm;
water-resistant to 50m
Strap: Calf leather
Price: USD26,000
DIVER X NEMO POINT
Ref: 1183-170LE/93-NEMO
Movement: Automatic caliber UN-118;
hours, minutes; small seconds; power
reserve; date; 60-hour power reserve
Case: Titanium with special engraving on
the caseback; 44mm; water-resistant
to 300m
Strap: Fabric
Price: USD8,900
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Urwerk
Vacheron Constantin
URWERK was founded in 1997 following the meeting of the two founders,
Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner, two years prior in 1995. The
company’s main goal: to design and craft haute horlogerie timepieces
blending tradition with futuristic vision. The name “URWERK” has its origins
far from Switzerland, in the town of UR in Mesopotamia, the very first place
where the perception of time was moulded; “WERK” means to work, create,
evolve, shape, forge and to arouse emotions, in German.
Over the years, URWERK has made a name for itself by releasing innovative
and modern watches featuring its signature wandering-hour satellite
indication, which serve as their primary collection of watches, and with
inspiration taken from the world of science fiction. This formula has proven
successful and has resulted in unique timepieces that can’t help but draw
attention when strapped on the wrist, albeit being creative variations of the
same theme.
The second category of watches created by the brand sit in the Chronometry
collection where you’ll find its EMC, or Electro Mechanical Control, watches
as well as the incredible Breguet-era-inspired AMC watch, short for Atomic
Master Clock, unveiled at Baselworld 2018. Last but not least are the timepieces
coming out of the Special Projects collection, where URWERK gets to
experiment with new designs and collaborate with other watchmakers.
TIMELINE
1995: Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei
meetfortheveryfirsttime
1997: URWERK is founded
2003: Launch of the UR-103
2005: Partnership with Harry Winston to
create the Opus V
2007: URWERK develops and patents the
satellite complication
2013: The EMC is the first mechanical
watch whose precision can be measured
by its wearer
2017: URWERK marks its 20th
anniversary with the launch of its firstever
reversible watch, the UR-T8
2018: The UR-111C is a new
interpretation of a linear time display
2019: Launch of the UR-100 with
astronomical indications
Not many manufactures can, and will, lay claim to being
the oldest manufacture in existence with 264 unbroken
years, but Vacheron Constantin does so with both pride
and humility. The company is old but not outdated, and it does
not let its incredible milestones get in the way of modern-day
improvements. The debut of the iconic 222, for example, marked
a departure from the brand’s established dress-watch aesthetics,
but it put Vacheron Constantin on the map for luxury sports
watches, and became the blueprint for the Overseas collection,
the brand’s bestseller. The company also knew exactly how to tug
at our heartstrings with the launch of the Historiques line, which
brought us contemporary reinterpretations of iconic models
from the maison’s past, such as the Cornes de Vache 1955 and the
American 1921. Today, the brand continues to excel in the finest
horological traditions — enamelling, engraving, engine-turning
— in its Les Métiers d’Art, and never fails to wow us year after year
with its prowess in complicated timepieces.
TIMELINE
1755: Jean-Marc Vacheron signs his first apprentice, Esaïe
Jean François Hetier, establishing the groundwork for
Vacheron Constantin
1819: Businessman François Constantin comes on board
1880: The Maltese cross is registered as the brand’s logo
1946: The most complicated pocket watch of the century,
“The Farouk” is completed
1955: Showsitsprowessincreatingelegantwatcheslikethe
popular Cornes de Vache 1955 Chronograph
1977: The debut of the iconic 222
2004: The Patrimony is relaunched, inspired by models from
the 1950s
2012: The Les Collectionneurs loyalty program debuts
2015: The most complicated pocket watch, ref. 57260, is
presented to a private client
2018: The Fiftysix collection is launched
UR-111C TWO-TONE
Movement: Self-winding caliber UR-111C; Jump hours, linear
retrograde minutes, precise digital minutes, digital seconds;
48-hour power reserve
Case: 46mm x 42mm; stainless steel with PVD coating in
some areas; water resistant to 30m
Strap: Black fabric
Price: USD133,000; limited to 25 pieces
UR-100 IN YELLOW GOLD
Movement: Self-winding caliber UR12.01; hours, minutes;
wandering hours with indication of distance of the Earth’s
rotation at the equator, and of the Earth’s passage along its
solar orbit; 48-hour power reserve
Case: 49.7mm x 41mm; 18K yellow gold; water resistant to
30m
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: USD60,000; limited to 25 pieces
OVERSEAS PERPETUAL CALENDAR
ULTRA-THIN SKELETON
Ref: 4300V/120R-B547
Movement: Self-winding caliber 1120
QPSQ/1; hours, minutes; perpetual
calendar; moon phase; 48-month
counter with leap year indication; 40-
hour power reserve
Case and dial: 41.5mm; 18K pink gold;
water resistant to 50m
Strap: 18K pink-gold bracelet; blue
Mississippiensis alligator leather; blue
rubber
Price: USD115,000
TRADITIONNELLE TOURBILLON
REF: 6035T/000R-B634
Movement: Self-winding caliber 2160/1;
hours and minutes; small seconds on
tourbillon carriage; tourbillon; 80-hour
power reserve
Case and dial: 39mm; 18K pink gold set
with diamonds; 39mm; mother-of-pearl
dial; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Grey satin; additional grey
alligator leather strap
Price: USD142,000
FIFTYSIX COMPLETE CALENDAR
REF: 4000E/000R-B065
Movement: Self-winding caliber 2460
QCL/1; hours, minutes, seconds; day;
date; stop seconds; month; moon
phase; 40-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 40mm; 18K pink gold;
sepia brown-toned dial; water resistant
to 30m
Strap: Brown calfskin with pink-gold pin
buckle
Price: USD33,700
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Van Cleef & Arpels
Zenith
The wedding of Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef was the
starting point of the beautiful story of Van Cleef & Arpels,
and that’s perhaps the reason why the brand has captured
our imaginations for more than a century. Inspired by couture,
nature and fantasy, Van Cleef & Arpels has romanced us with its
motifs of fairies, ballerinas and florals, and stunned us with its
artistry with pieces such as the Zip necklace and its MysterySet
creations.
Van Cleef & Arpels brings the same sensitivity and emotion
to its timepieces. The Poetic Complications collection brings
together its watchmaking prowess and jewellery expertise to
transform dials into enchanting spectacles that told the story of
the stars, the story of the four seasons, the story of the fairies,
and even the story of two lovers who meet for a fleeting kiss on a
bridge at midnight — a motif that is explored again in this year’s
Midnight Pont des Amoureux.
TIMELINE
1895: The wedding of Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef
1906: Maison Van Cleef & Arpels is established on 22 Place
Vendôme
1933: Patents the MysterySet technique, where stones are
setinawaywheretheprongsareinvisible
1935: The Cadena watch is born
1939: Claude Arpels sets up shop in New York
1940: The ballerina and fairy motifs are born
1950: The Zip necklace, first imagined in 1938, is finally
created
1968: The Alhambra necklace is created
1979: Creation of the first Pierre Arpels skeleton watch
2010: The Pont des Amoureux timepiece receives the Grand
Prix de l’Horlogerie
2012: L’École Van Cleef & Arpels opens
Georges Favre-Jacot, the man considered to be the father
of Zenith watches, established the brand in 1865, which
makes Zenith one of the older watchmaking names
around. Favre-Jacot’s groundbreaking idea was that he wanted
to house all of the watchmaking processes under one roof, rather
than the system of relying on multiple vendors and producers,
as was the norm in that time. This enabled the manufacture to
produce timepieces that it was proud to stand behind, from the
smallest component to the complete timepiece.
Of course, the most significant mark that Zenith has made in
the history books of horology remains the advent of the integrated
self-winding chronograph with the introduction of the El
Primero, in 1969. At 6.5mm in height and 29mm in diameter,
with a 50-hour power reserve, the movement boasted a 5Hz
frequency, which meant that the El Primero was able to measure
time accurately to 1/10th of a second.
But perhaps more than a phenomenal watchmaking
advancement, the story that needs to be told is that of the people
who have made sure that Zenith has continued to produce fine
timepieces, past the threat of the Quartz Crisis and in the 21st
century. Namely, the story of one Charles Vermot.
In 1975, an American brand that owned the Zenith watch
company mandated that the watchmaker should focus on making
quartz watches only. To the people at the manufacture who had
given their heart and soul to their labor, this was horrible news.
Among them was Charles Vermot, a specialist in chronograph
movement construction who had followed the development of El
Primero ever since the first sketches and spent his entire career
within the manufacture. He was convinced that mechanical
watchmaking would return before long and asked the management
at the time not to do away with the production equipment. His
request was, however, met with a firm no.
He then took it upon himself to stow away the most
essential equipment, including the presses (150 of them,
weighing more than a ton), the technical plans, the cams and
the cutting tools. Not only that, he even carefully listed each
component and each tool in a ring-binder file that he kept in a
forgotten attic of the manufacture.
Fast forward to 1978, Zenith was now under new
management again, who decided that Zenith should reclaim
its craft. Thanks to Charles Vermot’s quick thinking back in
1975, Zenith was able to pick up on its mechanical watchmaking
prowess without skipping a beat.
As much as Zenith continues to push watchmaking
technologies, with watches such as the Defy Lab and the Defy
El Primero 21 (with a chronograph function that has its own
dedicated escapement with an outrageous frequency rating of
50Hz, therefore allowing it to measure time accurately to 1/100th
of a second), Charles Vermot’s foresight is now allowing Zenith
to meaningfully re-issue some of its greatest watch designs in a
way that brilliantly progresses the stories of the manufacture’s
watchmaking and its people.
LADY ARPELS MIDNIGHT PONT DES
AMOUREUX
Movement: Self-winding caliber
Valfleurier Q020; retrograde hours and
minutes; 36-hour power reserve
Case and Dial: 42mm; 18K white or rose
gold with diamond-set bezel; grisaille
enamel dial; white-gold sculpted bridge
Strap: Black alligator strap with gold
folding clasp, or matching gem-set gold
bracelet
Price: From USD123,000
LADY ARPELS SOLEIL FÉERIQUE
Movement: Manual-winding caliber
Valfleurier 430P; hours and minutes; 40-
hour power reserve
Case and dial: 41mm; 18K white gold set
with diamonds; dial set with diamonds,
yellow sapphires, lapis lazuli, onyx, white
mother-of-pearl, plique-à-hour enamel
and enamel beads; water resistant to 30m
Strap: Interchangeable shiny glitter-blue
alligator with gold pin buckle set with
diamonds
Price: Available on request; limited to
three pieces
LADY ARPELS LUNE FÉERIQUE
Movement: Manual-winding caliber
Valfleurier 430P; hours and minutes; 40-
hour power reserve
Case and dial: 41mm; 18K white gold set
with diamonds; dial set with diamonds,
sapphires, turquoise, blue and black
aventurine, white mother-of-pearl,
plique-à-jour enamel, enamel beads with
miniature painting; water resistant to 30m
Strap: Interchangeable shiny glitter-blue
alligator with gold pin buckle set with
diamonds
Price: Available on request; limited to
three pieces
ZENITH DEFY 21 ULTRAVIOLET
Movement: Self-winding El Primero
9004; hours, minute, seconds; 1/100th
of a second chrono; 5 Hz escapement
for time function; 50Hz escapement for
chrono function; 50-hour power reserve
Case: 44mm microblasted titanium;
water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Violet fabric effect; microblasted
titanium clasp
Price: CHF13,400
ZENITH CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL
MANUFACTURE EDITION
Movement: Self-winding El Primero 400;
hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph
with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizer;
date; 50-hour power reserve
Case: 38mm stainless steel; water
resistant to 50m
Strap: Blue alligator with protective
rubber lining; stainless steel pin buckle
Price: CHF8,900
ZENITH CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL
“SHADOW”
Movement: Self-winding El Primero
4061, 5 Hz, 50 hours power reserve
Case: Original 1969 case in microblasted
titanium, 37mm
Strap: Black “Cordura effect” strap and
white stitching; microblasted titanium pin
buckle
Price: CHF8,400
110 IN TIME
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Zodiac
As part of the Fossil Group,
Zodiac stands out with the
50s, 60s, and 70s watches they
faithfully bring back from the archives
and update. Popular styles like the
Astrographic, Super Sea Wolf, and
Sea Dragons continually sell out, as
limited production keeps the collection
fresh and the desirability factor up.
Today, Zodiac creates exclusive
watches that maintain their historic
significance to vintage models, while
incorporating contemporary updates,
proprietary movements, and improving
functionality.
SUPER SEA WOLF 68 SATURATION
AUTOMATIC
Reference Number: ZO9509
Movement: Caliber STP 3-13 automatic
movement; hours, minutes and seconds;
date
Case: 45mm; stainless steel; water
resistant to 1,000m
Strap: Three-link stainless-steel bracelet
Price: USD1,595
SUPER SEA WOLF 53 COMPRESSION
AUTOMATIC STAINLESS STEEL
Reference Number: ZO9274
Movement: Caliber STP 3-13 automatic
movement; hours, minutes and seconds;
date
Case: 40mm; stainless steel; water
resistant to 200m
Strap: Five-link stainless-steel bracelet
Price: USD1,395
LIMITED EDITION SUPER SEA WOLF
GMT AUTOMATIC
Reference Number: ZO9403
Movement: Caliber STP 3-13 automatic
movement; hours, minutes and seconds;
date
Case: 40mm; stainless steel; water
resistant to 200m
Strap: Three-link stainless-steel
bracelet
Price: USD1,695
SUPER SEA WOLF 53 COMPRESSION
AUTOMATIC BLACK RUBBER
Reference Number: ZO9275
Movement: Caliber STP 3-13 automatic
movement; hours, minutes and seconds;
date
Case: 40mm; stainless steel; water
resistant to 200m
Strap: Black rubber
Price: USD1,095
SUPER SEA WOLF AUTOMATIC BLUE
RUBBER
Reference Number: ZO9270
Movement: Caliber STP 3-13 automatic
movement; hours, minutes and seconds;
date
Case: 40mm; stainless steel; water
resistant to 200m
Strap: Matte-blue rubber
Price: USD1,095
112 IN TIME
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