REVOLUTION_INTERNATIONAL_VOL 58

CELEBRATING THE MACHINE WITH A HEARTBEAT
INTERNATIONAL VOL. 58
USA ISSUE 11 SPRING 2021
BVLGARI — BREAKING RECORDS
THE COMPLETE
STORY OF
CHRONOGRAPHS
From Vintage Movements to
Fliegers Under the Radar
HIGHLIGHTS FROM
LVMH WATCH WEEK
THE MOST
COMPLICATED
MODERN ROLEX
USA 11
BVLGARI
Breaking Records
OCTO FINISSIMO GMT
CHRONOGRAPH
SPRING 2021 US$14.95

TIME INSTRUMENTS
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82 BVLGARI:
Octo Finissimo GMT Chronograph
SPLIT SECONDS
22 History Come Alive: Jaeger Le-Coultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano
24 True Classics: A Lange & Sohne’s Saxonia Outsize Date
26 Digital Evolution: Bell & Ross BR-01 Cyber Skull
28 TAG Heur and Porsche Take the Pole: TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph
30 Speed Winder: Richard Mille RM 65-01
32 Ready for Exploration: Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Messner Limited Edition
34 Ready to Race: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Huracan STO
36 The Late Bloomer: IWC “Tribute to 3705”
38 Omega Introduces the 2021 Speedmaster Collection
40 Overlooked: Give ‘Em a Gallet, Harry!

COLLECTION
Fifty Fathoms
©Photograph: Laurent Ballesta/Gombessa Project
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58
MAESTRO’S MASTER:
Up close with Eric Clapton’s custom Patek
PRIME TIME
44 Highlights from LVMH Watch Week
54 De Bethune: Two of A Kind
64 Glashütte: Original’s Fab Five
72 Whole ‘Nother Level: Patek Philippe’s
ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie
86 Hyper Horology for the Hyper Life: Roger Dubuis
TECHNICAL
174 Run Like Hell: The World of The Super Fast Chronographs
184 The Most Complicated Modern Rolex:
The Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
TASTEMAKER
198 Wrist check with Austen Chu
200 The Final Word: Hamilton co-pilot’s emission-free flying

CALIBER RM 72-01
RICHARD MILLE BOUTIQUES
ASPEN BAL HARBOUR BEVERLY HILLS BOSTON BUENOS AIRES
CHICAGO LAS VEGAS MIAMI NEW YORK ST. BARTH VANCOUVER
www.richardmille.com

96
THE CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT:
1940s to 1980s
THE FEATURES
112 Still Life: A New Day Is Dawning
120 The Complete History of the Amazing Lemania Chronograph Caliber 2310
140 Origins of the Tudor Chronograph
148 Milestone Military Chronographs
156 Top Guns: Flieger Chronographs that Fly Under The Radar
166 Start, Stop, Seiko: The Story of Seiko’s Innovative Chronographs

Time just
changed.
Again.
andACCUTRONareregisteredtrademarks.
www.accutronwatch.com

FOUNDER’S
NOTE
ne evening late last year, after a full 12
months of COVID-related ennui, quite
definitely drunk, I sat down in front of my
computer which has become my primary
tool for communicating with the world
as well as my home entertainment center. I pressed
“Play” on the Season Two finale of The Mandalorian,
most aptly titled “The Rescue.” By the end of it, I
was sobbing like a baby, crying my ass off, but for the
first time that year, in exhilaration and joy. Because
the appearance of Luke Skywalker at the end — sorry
but if you haven’t watched it by now, then too bad —
reconnected me with something I hadn’t believed in
for a very long time: the triumph of good over evil.
Sure, there was a huge amount of nostalgia
at play. After all, here was the archetypal science
fiction/fantasy hero, a modern-day recasting of
both Siddhartha Gautama and Jesus of Nazareth,
according to Joseph Campbell in his seminal book The
Hero with a Thousand Faces. More importantly, it gave
me and legions of Star Wars fans the hero that they
had always wanted and even begged for, but had been
denied since 1983’s Return of the Jedi.
In every subsequent episode, what we all wanted
was Luke in his prime, the Jedi Master on a high,
wielding his green lightsaber like Jet Li in The Legend
of the Swordsman and effortlessly Force-crushing
the Imperial minions. Instead, what we got was 40
years of alternate characters and muddled mythology
extensions which were the equivalent of your
mother serving you meatloaf when you asked for a
cheeseburger. Even worse were the most recent Star
Wars movies. The Last Jedi, in particular, recast Luke
Skywalker as a crotchety old curmudgeon who has
lost faith in the Jedis. During the press tour for this
film, Mark Hamill himself kept expressing shock
and perplexation over this character arc, oftentimes
looking as if he was caught in a bad dream from which
there was no waking.
So back to The Mandalorian. When the single
X-wing flies by the window of the Imperial ship and
enters the landing bay, I could practically hear the
collective intake of breath around the world. Watching
YouTube reaction videos, I would later realize this
was true. The following reveal of Luke Skywalker is
masterfully done, and in a short sequence lasting just
a few minutes, delivers on the unfulfilled collective
hopes and desires of fans in an extraordinary way.
First, a mysterious cloaked figure wielding a
lightsaber is revealed on black and white security
footage. (How funny that for all their planetdestroying
capability, Imperial starships use the
equivalent of nanny cams!) The next scene is a
glorious full-color reveal of a GREEN lightsaber,
which is the color of Luke’s saber from Return of
the Jedi. Then the following scene shows a gloved
right hand, alluding once again to Luke, who lost
his hand fighting Darth Vader and wore a glove over
his cybernetic replacement. Then the figure gets
into a lift. The door opens on a phalanx of seeming
undefeatable Dark Troopers, and Luke finally gets his
equivalent of Vader’s Rogue One hallway scene where
he simply obliterates the troopers using a combination
of his mad lightsaber skills and the Force. He even
Force-crushes the final trooper in a final flourish of
omnipotent badassitude. The doors to the cockpit
open. The figure turns off his saber and reveals
himself to be a digitally de-aged Mark Hamill. Finally
after almost half a century’s wait, we get what we have
been hoping for these many long unfulfilled years —
the return of Luke Skywalker in his prime and at the
height of his powers and abilities. For this, we have to
thank The Mandalorian’s creator and showrunner Jon
Favreau and his second-in-command Dave Filoni.
If you watch the fan reaction videos on YouTube,
you will understand the powerful emotions this
unleashed for so many people, who were alternately
whooping and crying throughout the entirety of this

AUTOMATIC TOURBILLON
RM 71-02
RICHARD MILLE BOUTIQUES
ASPEN BAL HARBOUR BEVERLY HILLS BOSTON BUENOS AIRES
CHICAGO LAS VEGAS MIAMI NEW YORK ST. BARTH VANCOUVER
www.richardmille.com

sequence. And the effect is exhilarating because at a
time when we need it the most, The Mandalorian once
again had us all believing that good will triumph over
evil. Favreau and Filoni did this all without having
to kill off characters, which ultimately made fans
reject series like The Walking Dead, and they did it
without having to inject the smirking cynicism that
ultimately derailed Game of Thrones. They did it with
a sense of unabashed and undiluted idealism. And I,
for one, love it — because it gave the people exactly
what they wanted.
So what does this all have to do with watches?
To me, watches exist for the same reason great
entertainment exists. That is: to uplift, inspire, edify
and sooth the souls of collectors the world over.
And throughout last year, there were some amazing
watches that did just that.
There were five watches that I consider perfect
examples of this. The first is Stepan Sarpaneva’s
Moomin, which depicts the beloved Finnish comic
character amid a technicolor landscape. The second
is Stefan Kudoke’s K2, a watch with a beautiful and
unique design language and a charmingly poetic
day/night indicator. The third is the Rolex Oyster
Perpetual watches with the vibrant-color dials that pay
homage to the Stella Day-Dates. The fourth is Tudor’s
phenomenal Black Bay 58 Navy. And the last is Omega’s
Speedmaster Silver Snoopy 50th Anniversary watch. At
no time have we needed a balm to the existential malaise
created by the last year, more than now.
I would therefore like to calmly point out that
brands need to consider that the uplifting effect of
their watches can be undermined by one issue that
still persists, and that relates to supply: specifically,
when watches are not available through traditional
retail channels to the public, yet are readily available
through secondary resellers at a markup. Because
that suggests that existing supply is being redirected
to profiteers at the expense of watch lovers and
collectors around the world. That is a big problem
that you need to fix.
The other thing to consider: that for as many great
watches there are out there, there is an equal number
of truly mediocre watches. I feel there is a strong
analogy for this with the Star Wars franchise which
has been helmed by producer Kathleen Kennedy
since Lucasfilm was sold to Disney. Kennedy began
producing films that she thought were the embodiment
of the franchise, at the expense of the opinion of
Star Wars fans. This is similar to what we have in the
watch industry today. There are a great number of
brands being helmed by truly dynamic individuals
who love what they do, and as a result, are creating
great watches and leading their brands to ever greater
heights. But there are also just as many brands with
leaders at the opposite end of the spectrum. You
wonder if they even like watches at all because each
time they show you their latest products, they resonate
with a soullessness that has me ultimately wondering
“Who would buy that?”
For a while now, the prevailing direction is to
expand the audience for watches by reaching out to
a lifestyle demographic. Actually, I think this is the
right thing to do. However, it still does not address
the simple fact that if you make an uninspired watch,
it will not be inspiring to anyone, whether they are
a watch expert or a lifestyle dude. As an illustration
of this, after all of the exultation related to The
Mandalorian’s season finale, a Lucasfilm employee
named Pablo Hidalgo tweeted that “emotions are
not for sharing,” apparently slamming fans and in
particular a YouTuber named Star Wars Theory
for weeping profusely with joy while watching “The
Rescue.” The backstory is that Hidalgo is in charge of
continuity at Lucasfilm, and he helped out on all the
projects that fans rejected and had little or nothing to
do with The Mandalorian. This petty act of sour grapes
on his part is the equivalent of a watch brand getting
angry at you because you like another watch and are
unabashed about expressing your love.
But the solution in both scenarios is ultimately
to listen to what people want, rather than simply
imposing your vision. Though, of course, your vision
and what we want can also be one and the same… but
only if you are a fan to begin with.
May the Force be with you.
Wei Koh, Founder
wei_koh_revolution

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BELLYTANKER CHRONOGRAPH
#SPRITZOCLOCK
for Revolution
An expression of hope for all there is to come in
the year 2021, as the world emerges from an unprecedented year.
Based on Bell & Ross’ beloved Bellytanker Chronograph, the 41mm stainless
steel watch is priced at USD 4,500 and produced in just 50 pieces.
Available on
For enquiries, please email shop@revolutionmagazines.com

EDITOR’S
NOTE
T
he words of Greek philosopher Heraclitus,
“There is nothing permanent except change”
ring truer than ever as we leave 2020 behind us.
Change also means that we learn to adapt in the
new normal. It is human nature to persevere through thick and
thin. We not only learn to survive a pandemic and its economic
and emotional fallout, we are also learning to thrive as we pull
ourselves out of it.
The same is true for the watch industry. There was on
and off shutdown of production facilities and retail stores;
however, the industry has adapted to e-commerce and retail by
appointment. Watch companies exercised patience in unveiling
their new collections through virtual events. The retail sales
and manufacturing throughout have been incrementally rising.
Soon, we will learn to travel safely, and organize regional events
on a smaller scale.
The one change many of us have become accustomed to, is
working from home. As the opportunity presented itself, I was
fortunate to join the Revolution team from my home in Austin,
Texas. For the past 10 years, I have enjoyed the eclectic vibes
of Austin — the live music, food trucks, South by Southwest
(SXSW), Formula One, hundreds of hiking trails, and
sprawling micro-breweries.
Let me briefly introduce myself. My horological journey
began in the late 1990s on various online forums where I
had academic exchanges of ideas with watch enthusiasts and
experts around the globe. These online conversations soon
became offline meet-ups in the early 2000s that brought
about covering major watch events and getting an insider’s
perspective on watchmaking. Today, I consider myself a watch
nerd, and I enjoy a $100 Timex Snoopy as much as a $1 million
Richard Mille.
While I appreciate a variety of watches and complications,
I have been always drawn towards pilot’s watches, and I have
turned my passion into a personal blog. I sincerely believe that
once you enter the world of horology, the learning never ends,
and hence my journey continues with Revolution.
For our first edition of 2021, we focus on chronographs and
their comprehensive features, exploring the technical details
of famous chronograph movements like the Lémania 2310. We
examine the origins of pilot chronograph watches in the military
and bring you rich histories of Tudor and Seiko chronographs,
as well as modern Flieger chronographs that fly under the radar.
In this Spring edition, we also introduce you to the
most recent watch releases, including the latest news from
LVMH Week. Bvlgari continues to amaze us with their
record-breaking thinnest GMT chronograph. From the
heart of Glashütte watchmaking, we sample five outstanding
representations from Glashütte Original’s collection. Roger
Dubuis showcases its mastery of complicated, technical
watchmaking. Finally, we explain the technical brilliance
behind the highly sought-after Rolex Sky-Dweller.
As I settle into my new role, I look forward to bringing
you stories behind these mechanical wonders including the
latest innovations, historical perspectives, interviews with
watchmakers and industry leaders, market perspective from
retailers, and the personal stories of collectors. And of course,
my favorite stories about pilot’s watches.
Bhanu Chopra, Editor-in-Chief
bhanu@revolutionwatches.com
analogdisplay

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For enquiries, please email: shop@revolutionmagazines.com

EDITORIAL
FOUNDER & EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Wei Koh @wei_koh_revolution
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Bhanu Chopra bhanu@revolutionmagazines.com
GLOBAL CONTENT EDITOR
Joyceline Tully joytully@revolutionmagazines.com
EDITOR AT LARGE
Adam Craniotes adam@revolutionmagazines.com
EDITORIAL HEAD, ASIA / ONLINE EDITOR
Sumit Nag sumit@revolutionmagazines.com
SUB-EDITORS
Catherine Koh & Eileen Sim
LIFESTYLE EDITOR
Yong Wei Jian weijian@revolutionmagazines.com
EDITORIAL COORDINATOR
Punam Nikki Rai nikki@revolutionmagazines.com
INTERNATIONAL EDITIONS
ASIA Sumit Nag
AUSTRALIA Felix Scholz
ITALY Maurizio Favot
MEXICO Israel Ortega
LATIN AMERICA Israel Ortega
RUSSIA DenisPeshkov
UAE JolaChudy
UK RossPovey
VISUAL
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Darius Lee darius@revolutionmagazines.com
PHOTOGRAPHER-AT-LARGE
Munster munster@revolutionmagazines.com
DIGITAL IMAGING ARTIST
KH Koh
PHOTOGRAPHER
Toh Si Jia
VIDEOGRAPHER
Don Torres
ON THE COVER
Bvlgari
Octo Finissimo GMT Chronograph
in 42mm, black opaline dial, titanium case
and rubber strap (Ref. 103371)
CONTRIBUTORS
Arabella Boardman
James Dowling
Nick Foulkes
Nick Gould
Adrian Hailwood
Andrew Hildreth
Amelia Hudson
Tracey Llewellyn
Felicity McCabe
Barbara Palumbo
Nick Scott
Alan Seymour
Lucia Svecova
MANAGEMENT
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
Walter Tommasino walter@revolutionmagazines.com
MANAGING DIRECTOR
Maria Lim maria@revolutionmagazines.com
SENIOR PUBLISHER (USA, MEXICO, LATIN AMERICA)
Nathalie Naintre nathalie@revolutionmagazines.com
HEAD, OPERATIONS & E-COMMERCE SALES
Dimitri Tan dimitri@revolutionmagazines.com
INTERNATIONAL TRAFFIC COORDINATOR
Christina Koh christina@revolutionmagazines.com
HUMAN RESOURCE MANAGER
Yvonne Koh yvonne@revolutionmagazines.com
HEAD OF FINANCE
Francesco Lunardon francesco@therakemagazine.com
ACCOUNTANT
Sandy Tan finance@revolutionmagazines.com
SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE
Low Sze Wei szewei@revolutionmagazines.com
REVHLUTION is published quarterly by
RevolutionMediaPteLtd.
All rights reserved. © 2021 by Revolution Media
Pte Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without
permission is prohibited.
Opinions expressed in REVHLUTION are solely
those of the writers and are not necessarily endorsed
by the publisher and its editors.
Editorial enquiries should be directed to the Editor.
While every reasonable care will be undertaken by
the Editor, unsolicited materials will not be returned
unless accompanied by a self-addressed envelope
and sufficient return postage.
For other enquiries, contact:
info@revolutionmagazines.com
For circulation and distribution, contact:
circulation@revolutionmagazines.com
PPS 1609/06/2013 (025530) MCI (P) 037/12/2018 ISSN 1793-463x
USA circulation, marketing and operations: Frank Ruiz and Carlos
Garcia, CircSense Marketing & Publishing Solutions
REVHLUTION USA Pte Ltd South Miami FL 33143 USA, Tel: 305 608
1460. REVOLUTION (ISSN # 1793-463x) Spring 2021, USA issue 11.
REVOLUTION is published quarterly by Revolution Media Private
Limited, The Mill, 5 Jalan Kilang #04-01 Singapore 159405. Agent for
this publication is CircSense Publishing Solutions, LLC, 16245 SW 81st
Terr., Miami, FL 33193. Periodicals postage paid at Miami, FL and at
additional mailing offices.

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REVOLUTION
Magazine
Revolution Magazine presents multi-faceted views of the work of
genius that is the mechanical watch. Enjoy interesting, insightful
long and short format stories curated for today’s sophisticated watch
collector. Hear from industry insiders on the state of the horological
world. Above all, share our love and passion for all things horology.
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CONTRIBUTORS
Ross Povey
Ross Povey, the founder
of TudorCollector.com is
regarded as the world’s
leading expert on vintage
Tudor watches. Although an
expert on Rolex and Tudor
watches primarily, Ross’s
work covers the entire
field of horology. He is
currently Editor-in-Chief
of Revolution magazine in the
UK. He writes for and has
contributed to some of the
most influential horological
publications, including; The
Telegraph, The Rake, Bulang &
Sons, Watchonista, Hodinkee,
QP and is the co-author of
the book Daytona Perpetual,
a celebration of the
automatic Rolex Daytona
released through Pucci
Papaleo Editore. Ross is also
an international speaker and
regularly hosts watch events
in the UK and Europe.
Munster
A fashion and commercial
photographer based in
Singapore, Munster has 13
years of experience in the
industry and has worked
with brands and titles both
locally and internationally.
His love for creating
beautiful visuals began
while he was in film school,
and he translates the same
richness in motion pictures
to his photography today.
Ondřej Vislocký
An award-winning
photographer based
in Prague, Czech
Republic, Ondrej’s macro
photography is featured
in prominent Central
European publications
and well-known brand
catalogs. He is a passionate
collector of both watches
and vintage cameras.
Apart from watches and
photography, he is a foodie
and an avid traveler.
Adam Craniotes
In addition to contributing
to Revolution, New York
City-based Adam Craniotes
is the founder and president
of RedBar Group, the
world’s largest collective
of watch enthusiasts, with
chapters in over 60 cities
across the globe. He is a
lifelong watch collector
and harbors an almost
irrational love for G-Shock.
Sumit Nag
Sumit started with Revolution
— and as a watch journalist — a
mere couple of years ago, having
spent the bulk of his professional
Iife in digital consultancy. Since
then he’s progressed to lead
Revolution’s digital efforts, taking
on the website and social media
channels. Most recently, he’s
been tasked to work closely with
Wei Koh to define Revolution’s
editorial ambitions for
omnichannel approach in digital
and the Asian territory.

THE MODERN VOICE OF CLASSIC ELEGANCE
Read, shop, subscribe.
TheRake.com

S P L I T
S E C O N D S

HISTORY COME ALIVE
Jaeger-LeCoultre and Casa Fagliano have made a fitting anniversary
edition of the iconic Reverso.
Words Bhanu Chopra
Jaeger-LeCoultre is known for setting the gold standard
of expert craftsmanship, refinement and the rare
gift of timeless appeal. The Reverso is perhaps their
most notable model, bringing an ingenious solution to a
common problem for sporting gentlemen who found that their
wristwatches were not up to their strenuous games of polo.
Jaeger-LeCoultre rose to the challenge and in 1931 designed
the unique mechanism that allowed the dial of the watch to be
reversed into the case to protect it from damage.
In the decades that followed, the Reverso saw its evolution
from that of an innovative sports watch created for British Army
officers in 1931 to a beautiful Art Deco timepiece at home
anywhere from the board room to the most exclusive dinner party.
The back of the watch case, an enticing blank canvas, readily
inspired the creation of custom art, from engravings to jewelencrusted
lacquer work that fueled a vigorous collector’s market.
In 1994, Jaeger-LeCoultre innovated again and moved in
a bold new direction for the Reverso by creating a secondary
watch dial that could display a second time zone, which also
opened the door to day/night watch versatility. The maison
outdid itself in iteration after iteration of the watch, creating
dozens of Reverso models with an array of beautiful finishes.
The creative minds at Jaeger-LeCoultre have more than met
the challenge of offering dynamic dual-faced watches while
maintaining a classical grace and horological excellence.
To launch the 90-year celebration of that first model
from 1931, Jaeger-LeCoultre is offering the Reverso Tribute
Duoface Fagliano in burgundy dial, a limited edition release in
only 190 pieces. It’s a stunning timepiece, and a fitting homage
to the early sports watch.
For the primary dial, the maison has included hours,
minutes and an inset seconds dial. They chose a gorgeous
burgundy lacquer paired with an 18K pink gold case, a callback
to the years following the first Reverso’s release when several
colorful dials were introduced. The applied golden indexes
stand proud and bold against the highly polished burgundy, a
striking contrast that adds to the overall impact of the dial.
The reverse dial adds a second time zone and 24-hour
day/night complication. This one aims to soften and texturize,
replacing the symmetric lines, angles and bold-colored lacquer
with a sophisticated clous de Paris guilloché in a striking silver.
There is an echo here from the burgundy dial’s inset seconds, a
circle that softens the otherwise geometric design, in the day/
night 24-hour indicator.
The strap is another nod to the Reverso’s history, a
combination of burgundy cordovan leather and canvas. Each
strap is handmade, reputedly a six-hour process per strap,
by the renowned Argentinian bespoke
polo bootmaker, Casa Fagliano. The
design invokes the styles and materials
used in Fagliano’s summer polo
boots, and dovetails the rugged feel
of a sport watch with the versatility
of a day watch, something Jaeger-
LeCoultre does with confidence here.
The manual winding Jaeger-
LeCoultre caliber 854A/2 is made of 160
parts. The reverse dial which displays the
second time zone and 24-hour display
for day/night indication can be adjusted
independently with a hidden quick
adjustment slider that is revealed when
the dial is released from the case, thus
maintaining a clean design aesthetic. The
movement has a 42-hour power reserve
and is water resistant to 30 meters.
22 SPLIT SECONDS

JAEGER LE-COULTRE
REVERSO TRIBUTE DUOFACE FAGLIANO
MOVEMENT Manual winding caliber 854A/2;
42-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, seconds,
second time zone and day/night indicator
CASE 47mm (L) × 28.3mm (W); 18K pink gold;
water resistant to 30m
PRICE USD 23,900
AVAILABILITY Limited to 190 pieces
SPLIT SECONDS 23

TRUE CLASSICS
A. Lange & Söhne celebrates its double anniversary with
two new editions of the Saxonia Outsize Date.
Words Bhanu Chopra
24 SPLIT SECONDS

A.
Lange & Söhne is celebrating two
important anniversaries this year. The
first is the 175th founding anniversary
of the Lange watchmaking company in Glashütte
in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange. He and
his sons spent the next century building a
reputation for innovative pocket watches,
and they introduced the metric system
as a replacement for the traditional
ligne (1 ligne is equal to 2.2558 mm) in
watchmaking. They also filed patents for
numerous scientific measurement tools in
addition to their innovative timepiece and
watchmaking designs.
In 1945, Russian bombers destroyed the
Lange factory on the last day of the Second World
War. The watch companies in Glashütte were
nationalized by the Soviet-controlled government
in 1948, and the Lange name disappeared from the
dials. After the fall of the Berlin Wall and German
reunification in 1989, F.A. Lange’s great-grandson,
Walter, began the work of registering his family’s
brand name and rebuilding it. Which brings us to
the second anniversary for the company — it’s been
30 years since Walter Lange successfully reestablished A. Lange
& Söhne in 1990 and began the work that would deliver the
first new Lange-branded wristwatches in 1994.
One of his first patents, filed in 1992, was for
the outsized, double-aperture date display that
would come to be a highly recognized feature of
Lange timepieces. This design was inspired by
the legendary five-minute clock that Johann
Christian Gutkaes made for the Semperoper
Opera House of Dresden in 1841. The primary
goal of the design was a larger date display
to increase legibility without significantly
increasing the size of the case. It is
currently featured on 22 models of
A. Lange & Söhne wristwatches.
In 2018, Lange introduced the
first Saxonia Outsize Date model. The
watch featured the minimalistic design and
symmetry that was a hallmark of the Saxonia
line with a single subdial at six o’clock and the
dual-window date display. They built upon the
Lange L086.1 caliber movement, adding the date
complication with twin apertures to create the
L086.8. The new models came in a 38.5mm pink
gold or white gold case, both with a black dial.
As part of the dual anniversary celebrations,
A. Lange & Söhne has released two additional models
for the Saxonia Outsize Date collection: an argenté
dial (solid silver with silver plating) for both the
pink gold and the white gold cases. While it
doesn’t sound like a tremendous change, the
silver dial lends a much more versatile depth
to the timepiece. The Saxonia Outsize
Date collection is overall much more
balanced with the two dial colors.
It features the large date windows at
12 o’clock and a subsidiary seconds dial at
six o’clock to create a pleasing symmetry. The
hours and minutes indexes are chamfered and
polished solid gold baton appliques (doubled
at 12, 3, 6 and 9) complement the argenté dial.
The date is adjusted with a day-by-day rapidcorrection
pusher situated at 10 o’clock, rather
than integrated into the crown or recessed in the
case, creating a user-friendly experience for quick
adjustments and adding a touch of asymmetry to the
overall look of the watch.
As with all their timepieces, A. Lange & Söhne still
finishes each piece by hand, using many techniques that
would have been at home in F.A. Lange’s workshop in 1845. The
movement of the watch is finished beautifully with the distinct
Glashütte three-quarter plate made of untreated
German silver. It utilizes a large central rotor with
a ball bearing and a platinum centrifugal mass for
efficient winding, and offers a 72-hour power reserve.
The Saxonia Outsize Date masters the harmony
of exquisite materials, thoughtful design and
careful hand-finishing — down to the matching
font used for the date windows and the A. Lange
& Söhne logo — to create a true classic.
A. LANGE & SŐHNE
SAXONIA OUTSIZE DATE
MOVEMENT Self-winding caliber L086.8;
72-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, seconds, large date
CASE 38.5 mm; 18K white or pink gold; water
resistant to 30m
STRAP Black or brown leather
PRICE USD 27,700
SPLIT SECONDS 25

DIGITAL
EVOLUTION
Bell & Ross’s BR-01 Cyber Skull puts a futuristic
spin on the traditional memento mori symbol.
Words Bhanu Chopra
The BR 01 Cyber Skull is the
fourth and the latest in the
Bell & Ross Skull series that
continues the legacy of celebrating
the bravery of soldiers and honoring
the technological advances of the
aeronautics field. However, the
Cyber Skull brings a new take on
the classic skull watch. The uniform
matte black finish — achieved using
the adoption of lightweight ceramic
for the casing — plays with the
concepts of digital art and virtual
reality. The uniquely modern style
of the skull, with its sharp angles
and defined edges, is an homage to
the past and a herald of the future in
one thought-provoking design. The
BR 01 Cyber Skull is available in a
limited edition of 500 timepieces.
Unlike its predecessors, which
drew upon traditional depictions of
skulls used by warriors from ancient
Vikings to the 101st American
Airborne Division, the BR 01 Cyber
Skull is a subtle and menacing figure
of black on black. The metallic angles
and elusive lines bring an updated,
digital aesthetic to the timepiece,
reflecting the changing nature of
modern warfare from the fields of
battle to the frontlines of cyberspace.
The imperious skull and
crossbones hide much of the
mechanicals in a deliberate way,
conceding only a hint of gears
turning around the edges and
the exposed balance spring in a
precise circle at the center of the
forehead — thus revealing a heart
and brain as cybernetic as its
name. The skull’s face takes full
advantage of its three-dimensional
concept, changing perspective as
Bell & Ross BR01
Laughing Skull
26 SPLIT SECONDS

you view it from different angles.
One moment, it is introspective
and thoughtful, then a winding of
the spring activates an automaton
movement which opens the jaw, and
it appears to grin with dark humor.
In addition to its haute chic, there
is much to admire in the horological
prowess of this timepiece. The
ceramic case is high-tech, bringing
a solid lightness to both form and
function. The choice of ceramic
for both the case and the skull
decoration will ensure a lightweight
feel on the wrist despite its
substantial size of 45mm by 46.5mm,
one destined to draw attention.
Obscuring the BR-CAL.208
movement behind the imposing
skull maintains a minimalistic and
ultra modern façade and enhances
the atmosphere of digitization. The
baton-shaped indexes of the dial
play along, appearing almost as
virtual hints of information.
Unlike the mysteries of
cyberspace, all is revealed when the
watch is turned over. A sapphirecrystal
caseback gives the viewer a
glimpse of the unknown, and proves
there is method to the madness
glimpsed in the eyes of the Cyber
Skull. This watch is a departure from
the vintage style, but it remains true
to the intentions of the Skull series.
The BR 01 Cyber Skull is an
art piece at its heart, designed
to marry the experience of our
past to the understanding of our
future and to encourage us to
contemplate the changing nature of
our world — our digital life, death
and everything in between.
Bell & Ross BR01
Cyber Skull
BELL & ROSS
BR 01 CYBER SKULL
MOVEMENT Manual winding BR-CAL.208; 50-hour
power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, moving skull when
watch is wound by hand
CASE 45mm (L) × 46.5mm (W); matte black ceramic;
water resistant to 50m
PRICE USD 10,900
AVAILABILITY Limited to 500 pieces
SPLIT SECONDS 27

TAG HEUER AND
PORSCHE TAKE THE POLE
With the new TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph,
TAG Heuer and Porsche collaborate again on a
chronometer that delivers superlative
performance and style.
Words Bhanu Chopra
28 SPLIT SECONDS

If you’re going to win a race, you need more than
talent. The ability to know when to swerve and
when to brake is only as good as the machine that
brings you to the finish line. Precise engineering
and economical design are critical components of a
winning race car, and the key ingredients of a winning
timepiece. TAG Heuer and Porsche have a long
history together, their first collaboration dating back
to 1963 when Jack Heuer made the Heuer Carrera
chronograph in honor of the successful Porsche 911
Carrera developed by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche.
TAG Heuer and Porsche collaborations run
deeper than cosmetic branding on a watch or a
sponsor name across the race car livery. They cocreated
a TAG-Porsche engine that brought three
consecutive F1 world titles to McLaren from 1984
to 1986. In 2019, they partnered on a new Formula
E team to contribute to the world of single-seater
electric car races. There are numerous other
motorsport collaborations with Porsche and TAG
Heuer as prominent contributors and collaborators.
The two companies work together off the
racetrack as well. They are both deeply involved
in supporting golf and tennis by sponsoring
competitions and developing applications. Porsche
is hosting a Tennis Grand Prix in Stuttgart for some
of the most talented women in the game, and TAG
Heuer is the official timekeeper for the event.
ANEWLEGACY
On the watch front, TAG Heuer and Porsche have
teamed up again to present the TAG Heuer Carrera
Porsche Chronograph. The timepiece has its roots in the
Carrera Sport Chronograph, known for the tachymeter
scale engraved on the bezel. The watch is rich with
Porsche iconography, from the colorway of red, black
and gray, to the speedometer-like dial and subdials.
The watch is unexpectedly serene for the displayed
complications. The dial is a dark gray and is subtly
textured to resemble the asphalt of a racing track. The
three-hand timekeeping features rhodium-plated
hands, highly legible numerals, black gold-plated
applied indexes and a date window at six o’clock. White
Super-LumiNova coats the hour hand, minute hand
and the indexes for low-light conditions.
The three subdials mimic the look of Porsche
gauges: black with contrasting white markers and redtipped
rhodium-plated hands. The hints of red liven
up the mostly neutral palette, and draw the eye to the
Porsche logo on the polished black of the ceramic fixed
tachymeter-scale bezel.
The sapphire crystal is domed and double-coated
with anti-reflective treatment to continue the theme of
clear and clean design. Chronograph pushers in steel
and gray flank the steel crown, which sports an eyecatching
line in red.
TAG HEUER
CARRERA PORSCHE CHRONOGRAPH SPECIAL EDITION
MOVEMENT Self-winding caliber Heuer 02; 80-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph
CASE 44mm; polished steel; ceramic black tachymeter fixed bezel with
Porsche inscription; water resistant to 100m
PRICE USD 5,850 for embossed black calf leather; USD 6,050 for
H-shaped steel bracelet
The case is 44mm polished steel that is finely
brushed, and the screw-down design delivers 100
meters of water resistance. The Caliber Heuer 02
automatic movement with its 80-hour power reserve is
visible behind the caseback crystal, like a peek under the
hood. There is a choice of a black calf leather strap with
hand-stitching that recalls the Porsche seat design, or a
sleek H-shaped bracelet in steel.
TAG Heuer delivers a balanced aesthetic to this
chronograph, rising to the challenge of delivering
crucial information to a driver at a glance as he or she
speeds around the track. From the handsome luxury
of the watch to the bespoke packaging, TAG Heuer
and Porsche have demonstrated again the power of
strong collaboration.
SPLIT SECONDS 29

SPEED WINDER
The new Automatic Split Seconds Chronograph
from Richard Mille is the manufacture’s most
technically complex timepiece to date.
Words Bhanu Chopra
Richard Mille’s newest sport timepiece, the RM 65-01 Automatic
Split Seconds Chronograph, was developed in partnership with
Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. It was their first venture into the
high-end complication with Vaucher, that was previously outsourced to
Renaud & Papi. One look at it, and your heart races a little faster: there’s
a lot to see in this sporty new addition to an already impressive line of
chronographs, and it leaves the viewer just a tiny bit breathless.
CODIFIED BY COLOR
The dial has substantial 44mm by 49.9mm measurements, and a
complex Carbon TPT case, conveying all the information in skeletonized
layers. TPT (Thin Ply Technology) is a super lightweight carbon fiber
manufactured by NTPT company for use in speedboat and automotive
racing, among other applications.
Richard Mille cleverly uses color coding to match watch functions
to their relevant pushers for greater ease of use and legibility. The main
time functions — hours, minutes and small seconds — are all displayed in
a sunny yellow. The hands are skeletonized and tipped with bright yellow
triangles to stand out against the scattering of oversized gray numerals
trimmed in yellow.
Rimmed in emerald green is the semi-instantaneous vertical date display
windowed in the upper left of the dial. Orange relates to the chronograph
sweep seconds hand as well as the 30-minute and 12-hour subdials.
Blue is used for the split seconds hand to distinguish it from the other
functions and avoid confusion. The inclusion of this hand to calculate
intermediate times is a first for a Richard Mille automatic movement.
Red is reserved for the in-house rapid-winding
mechanism, another milestone first for Richard Mille.
A pair of red stripes — one for the seconds track along
the periphery of the dial and one providing an accent
of color along the inner bezel — balances the brilliant
red Quartz TPT button for the rapid-winder pusher.
The crown houses a function-selector gearbox,
with the selected function displayed in a color-coded
subdial at four o’clock. This allows the traditional
winding, semi-instantaneous date adjustment and
time setting to all be accomplished by a single crown.
To switch between functions, there is a pusher located
in the center of the crown.
FEATURE RICH AND COMPLEX
Richard Mille took its time with this watch, devoting
some five years to its development. In fact, it’s the
most complex timepiece the brand has ever produced.
The caliber RMAC4 movement was designed for high
accuracy over extended periods of time and tight
precision (calculations to 1/10th of a second) for the
stopwatch with a 5Hz frequency. The six-column
wheel architecture and vertical coupling ensure a
world-class consistency.
The rapid-winding mechanism — a rare feature
using a pusher on the case at eight o’clock —
introduces an alternative to the traditional winding
and automatic winding options already available. With
125 pushes, the barrel is fully wound and ready. This
function is technically difficult due to the high levels
of torque transfer, and achieves a valuable practical
function for a long event.
Another interesting feature is the variable
geometry rotor. A three-position weight can be
adjusted based on the owner’s anticipated activity
level: faster winding during quiet activities, such as
taking leisurely stroll, or slowing it down for highenergy
activities. This innovation brings a new level of
optimization for the owner’s lifestyle.
The baseplate and bridges are made with Grade 5
titanium — a corrosion-resistant and rigid alloy that is
highly biocompatible. The combination of 90 percent
Grade 5 titanium, six percent aluminum and four
percent vanadium used in the watch can also be found
frequently in other high-performance industries like
aerospace, aeronautics and automobiles.
RICHARD MILLE
RM 65-01 AUTOMATIC SPLIT SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH
MOVEMENT RMAC4 automatic movement; hours and
minutes; small seconds; date; 1/10th of a second split
seconds chronograph; 60-hour power reserve
CASE 44.5mm x 50mm x 16.10mm; Carbon TPT,
or Carbon TPT and red gold
PRICE USD310,000
30 SPLIT SECONDS

READY FOR
EXPLORATION
Montblanc unveils the 1858 Geosphere Limited
Edition in partnership with mountaineering legend
Reinhold Messner.
Words Kevin Cureau
Italian mountaineer and
explorer Reinhold Messner

In mountaineering lore, Italian
mountaineer and explorer Reinhold
Messner is a legend.
He made the first solo ascent of
Mount Everest, and was the first (along
with Peter Habeler) to summit Everest
without supplemental oxygen. Among his
other impressive achievements, Messner
was also the first person to climb all 14
peaks over 8,000 meters in the world
(also known as the eight-thousanders).
Between 1989 and 1990, he and German
explorer Arved Fuchs became the first to
cross Antarctica and Greenland on foot
without the use of snowmobiles or dog
sleds. Messner created his own list of
the “Seven Summits,” a mountaineering
challenge where explorers have to
climb the highest mountains of each of
the seven continents. Then in 2004,
at the grand age of 60, he became the
first to trek 2,000 kilometers alone
across the Gobi Desert in Mongolia.
In short, he was the perfect partner
for Montblanc when it looked to
creating a limited edition timepiece
centered on travel and exploration.
Montblanc first introduced the
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere in 2018.
As the key model of the 1858 collection,
the watch became an instant success
and provided enthusiasts with a new
and unique way of displaying the worldtime
indication, using two distinctive
domed turning discs representing the
northern and southern hemispheres. The
bi-directional rotating bezel displayed a
compass graduation, adding to the watch’s
adventurous feel. Two versions were
available, a standard version in stainless
steel and a limited edition in bronze.
For the new Montblanc 1858
Geosphere Messner Limited Edition, the
brand brought back the bronze case and
paired it with a deep gradient blue dial
featuring elements coated in rose gold
for a vintage aesthetic and reminiscent of
mountaineering exploration tools from the
past. The timepiece comes on a navy blue
NATO strap, giving it a real “tool” watch
feel while retaining sufficient sartorial
elegance for pairing with dressier outfits.
It is also worth waiting for sundown
to witness the new configuration of
the glowing elements on the dial. The
hours, minutes, second time zone hands,
cardinal points on the bezel, as well as the
compass arrows are highlighted in green
Super-LumiNova, while the globes with
their continents, Arabic numerals and
indexes appear in blue Super-LumiNova.
This makes for easy reading at night and
highlights the importance of clear timereading
in any condition, just as a real
explorer would need.
In a sense, you could say that the 1858
Geosphere was already linked to Messner
as the two domed globes include red dots
that mark out the world’s Seven Summits,
as taken from Messner’s list, which from
a mountaineering point of view are the
most challenging. The caseback features
an image of the Mont Blanc mountain,
the complete Messner list of summits, a
compass and two crossed ice pickaxes.
For this limited edition, an engraving of
Messner’s signature has been specially
added. The watch will be produced in a
limited run of just 262 pieces, a nod to all
the peaks over 26,200 feet that Messner
has climbed during his career.
MONTBLANC
1858 GEOSPHERE MESSNER
LIMITED EDITION
MOVEMENT Self-winding caliber MB
29.25; 42-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, date, second
time zone and day/night indication
CASE 42mm; bronze; bi-directional
bronze bezel with blue ceramic insert;
water resistant to 100m
STRAP Blue luxury NATO fabric with
bronze-coated stainless steel pin buckle
PRICE USD 6,500
AVAILABILITY Limited edition of
262 pieces
SPLIT SECONDS 33

READY TO RACE
Roger Dubuis revs up its collaboration with Lamborghini in a hyperwatch
inspiredbytheHuracánSTO,astreet-legalversionoftheItalianmarque’s
Super Trofeo race cars.
Words Bhanu Chopra
There’s a certain hedonistic
flamboyance to the collaborations
between Roger Dubuis and
Lamborghini. The two have worked
together to create four previous
Excalibur timepieces that drew
inspiration from the luxury sports cars
Huracán, Huracán Spyder, Huracán
Performante and Aventador S. The
Excalibur Spider Huracán STO, like the
supercar it is modeled after, is a vibrant
spectacle of excess and a fitting addition
to the partnership.
The Huracán STO is strongly
rumored to be the sixth and final car in
the line. A 5.2-liter V10 engine delivers
640 horsepower and 417 pound-feet
of torque, which rockets the car from
zero to 62mph in three seconds flat —
staggering performance for a street-legal
luxury sports car. The car itself boasts
an aggressive posture and bears a livery
of Blue Laufey with California Orange
accents, a combination that does exactly
what it was meant to do: capture all
attention. It’s the kind of car that will
collect passersby, drawing admiration
and envious sighs.
Roger Dubuis took the high octane
colorway and over-the-top performance
in stride, creating a compelling timepiece
for any supercar enthusiast. The strap
has a rubber base with a perforated
calf leather inlay in Blue Laufey, which
incorporates the Huracán STO’s major
color scheme and calls to mind the
fine leather of luxury seats and custom
driving gloves. California Orange streaks
along the strap in the stitches and peeks
through the perforations, bringing home
the Huracán STO’s accent color with
panache. There is a Pirelli P Zero Trofeo
R pattern on the lining and a quickrelease
system for interchangeability.
The dial is a visual feast. The case is
a substantial 45mm, and every inch of
real estate lends itself to completing the
parallels to the supercar that inspired it.

lasted and rugged, that was inspired
by the strut bars in the V10’s engine
bays. A final pièce de résistance is the
12-degree angled balance wheel with a
360-degree oscillating weight spinning
as furiously as the STO’s wheels and
giving the timepiece a sense of perpetual
motion and speed.
The Excalibur Spider Huracán STO
is a self-described “mean machine” of a
hyperwatch. Sadry Keiser, international
marketing director for Roger Dubuis,
had this to say, “It’s all about putting
the spirit of the racetrack on the street
without any compromise. That was the
starting point of that creation. Since
the beginning, we have worked in close
association with the Lamborghini
Squadra Corse and Centro Stile to
The black DLC titanium bezel, marked
in bold California Orange lacquer
in 10-minute increments, looks like
a speedometer, the needle-shaped
seconds hand marking ever increasing
speed. The case is SMC carbon with
rubber inlays, and it gives the impression
of a high performance steering wheel
with a skeletonized dial circled by unique
rhodium-plated hex-bolt hour indexes,
and a track of seconds markers that
mimic fuel gauges.
The dial, presenting hours, minutes,
seconds and a date indicator, is like a
peek under the hood of a sports car with
the exposed 233-component, selfwinding
RD630 caliber movement visible
beneath a striking honeycomb motif. The
upper caliber features a bridge, shotunderstand
their philosophy; passion for
speed, daring character, willingness to
go beyond. Thanks to those interactions,
Roger Dubuis was able to translate
those ingredients into a strong product
family enhanced by design codes
which built bridges between our two
companies. Reason why, when you wear
an Excalibur Spider Huracán, there
is no doubt about our collaboration.
That latest creation illustrates perfectly
the common value we shared with
Lamborghini Squadra Corse, which gives
birth to the Excalibur Huracán STO.”
The Excalibur Spider Huracán
STO is a boutique limited release of 88
pieces. It has a twin-barrel power supply
achieving a 60-hour power reserve and a
water resistance of 50 meters.
ROGER DUBUIS
EXCALIBUR SPIDER HURÀCAN STO
MOVEMENT Self-winding caliber RD630; 60-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, seconds and date
CASE 45mm; SMC carbon with rubber inlays; black DLC titanium bezel;
water resistant to 50m
STRAP Black rubber base with perforated calf leather inlay, featuring a Pirelli Super
Trofeo R pattern on the lining; triple-folding clasp in black DLC titanium
PRICE USD 56,500
AVAILABILITY Limited to 88 pieces
SPLIT SECONDS 35

THE LATE
BLOOMER
IWC’s new Fliegerchronograph takes inspiration
from the iconic “Black Flieger” from the mid-1990’s,
but upgrades the ceramic case to groundbreaking
Ceratanium, and comes with an in-house
movement.
Words Bhanu Chopra

When IWC Schaffhausen released their Ceramic
Fliegerchronograph (ref. 3705) in 1994, it was
met with lackluster success. The ceramic model
was more expensive than its more fashionable sister version in
stainless steel (ref. 3706) and the movement was a modified
Valjoux 7750 where collectors wanted in-house mechanicals.
Due to the low demand, the ref. 3705 was only produced for a
few years. Fewer than 2,000 timepieces were made when the
model was relegated to obscurity.
But thanks to the durability of the sturdy ceramic case,
the charming quality of the tritium markers as they yellowed,
and a resurgence of interest in neo-vintage watches, the ref.
3705 found its audience nearly a quarter of a century later. In
fact, Günter Blümlein, a figure that looms large in the world of
watchmaking, liked the model so much he purchased a ref. 3705
as a gift for his wife in 2001, and it fetched a staggering USD
53,750 at auction in 2018. IWC took note of the new appetite
for their rare and handsome timepiece. Consequently, IWC
introduces a homage piece to the original 1994 version, the
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705”
(ref. 387905).
A NEW CLASSIC
The “Tribute to 3705” is faithful to the style and detail that drew
the collectors’ eyes, with a few modern revisions. The case has
been updated from the original ceramic to a groundbreaking
new material developed by IWC called Ceratanium.
IWC’s Ceratanium is a new alloy where the case
components are machined from a titanium alloy, then treated
with a furnace firing process that transforms the surface
into rich, black material that rival titanium for durability and
ceramic for scratch resistance. Ceratanium is also highly
resistant to corrosion and has a high skin tolerance. Unlike the
PVD coating found in most watches, the phase transformation
from the sintering process creates an actual bond with the
titanium for a surface that won’t chip or flake.
The dial has a clean design, with high legibility. It has a
focused colorway of black and white — black dial with white
IWC’s Ceramic
Fliegerchronograph
ref 3705 released
in 1994
painted Arabic numerals and an outer minute/seconds track that
features the triangle and two dots at 12 o’clock — maintaining the
aesthetic that earned the original Ceramic Fliegerchronograph
the nickname “Black Flieger.” The hands are straight rhodium
batons with a luminous coating for low-light or night conditions.
The subdials at nine and 12 o’clock are rimmed in white and have
stop times of up to 12 hours. IWC reverses the color scheme for
the day and date complication at three o’clock with black text on
white date wheel, which makes for a nice contrast.
The watch diameter has increased from the original 39mm
to 41mm, with a height of 15.3mm, and the case is Ceratanium.
It features a screw-in crown stamped with the IWC logo and
is grooved for ease of use while wearing winter gloves. Two
Ceratanium chronograph pushers, simple and functional,
flank the crown. A soft iron inner cage provides protection from
magnetic fields, and the glass is secured against drops in air
pressure. The case design achieves a water resistance of 30 meters.
IWC has updated the movement to their in-house 69380
caliber, a classic column wheel design with a bi-directional
pawl winding system. The movement features small hacking
seconds and has a power reserve of 46 hours. Every element of
the watch resonates with the IWC philosophy that “form follows
function,” and it definitely has an aesthetic of directness that
many collectors find appealing.
The IWC “Tribute to 3705” is paired with a black calfskin
strap. The watch is a limited edition of 1,000 pieces and will be
sold exclusively on IWC’s website.
IWC
PILOT’S WATCH CHRONOGRAPH EDITION “TRIBUTE TO 3705”
MOVEMENT IWC self-winding caliber 69380; 46-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, day-date and chronograph
CASE 41mm; Ceratanium; water resistant to 30m
STRAP Black calfskin
PRICE USD 11,900
AVAILABILITY Limited edition of 1,000 pieces
SPLIT SECONDS 37

Having celebrated 50 years since the Speedmaster accompanied
humankind on our first journey to the Moon, Omega has now
decided that for the reimagined Speedmaster for 2021, it
will seek inspiration from one of three references that were “Flight
Qualified for all Manned Space Missions” on June 1st, 1965, by the
powers that be at NASA.
In Moonwatch Only — the ultimate reference tome for the
Speedmaster — retired NASA project engineer and program manager
James H. Ragan and Omega’s international brand heritage manager
Petros Protopapas chronicle that in the lead-up to the Gemini
missions, the space agency saw the need to “test, select and certify”
a complete array of standard equipment for the astronauts’ use. One
such equipment on the list was originally a request that was made by the
astronauts themselves — “a watch for use during training and flight.”
Flight crew operations director Deke Slayton took on the task of
finding this watch by issuing an internal memo that listed the need for a
OMEGA INTRODUCES
THE 2021
SPEEDMASTER
COLLECTION
The 2021 redesign of the hallowed Speedmaster is inspired
by the Moonwatch reference ST105.012, and powered by the
Master Chronometer caliber 3861.
“highly durable and accurate chronograph to be used by
Gemini and Apollo flight crews.” The memo then passed
on to the hands of James Ragan. It was his task to send
out the request for quotation to a list of watchmakers,
stated earlier by Deke Slayton.
Three brands responded in time for NASA to take the
proposed timepieces on board for testing. These watches
were: a Longines-Wittnauer 235T, a Rolex chronograph
reference 6238 and, lastly, an Omega Speedmaster
reference 105.003. Curious thing to point out here is
that the Speedmaster used Omega’s own version of the
Lemania 2310 movement, whereas the Rolex and Longines
timepieces used their own versions of the Valjoux 72.
The rest, as we now know, is history, with the
Speedmaster having survived the battery of tests that
NASA had subjected the watch to before marking it
“Flight Qualified for all Manned Space Missions.”
The references of the Speedmaster that first went on
the surface of the Moon, specifically, were the 105.012
and the 145.012. Both these references were cleared for
use by NASA because they used the same caliber 321
that was within the 105.003. Used by the astronauts for
their space missions, the reference 105.003 eventually
landed on the Moon when it was worn by Gene Cernan
on his Apollo 17 mission.
THE DETAILS
The 2021 redesigned Speedmaster takes directly from
the ST105.012. In accordance, the new Speedmaster
features the asymmetrical, twisted lugs case of the time
with short and wide pushers. The dial has been given the
Words Sumit Nag

OMEGA
SPEEDMASTER MOONWATCH PROFESSIONAL
MASTER CHRONOMETER
MOVEMENT Manual winding Master Chronometercertified
caliber 3861; 50-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small hacking seconds
and chronograph
CASE 42mm; stainless steel, Sedna gold or Canopus
gold; water resistant to 50m
STRAP Nylon fabric, leather or matching metal bracelet
PRICE From USD 5,250 (stainless steel);
USD 24,600 (Sedna gold); USD 30,400 (Canopus gold)
The Speedmaster Moonwatch
in Sedna gold; (Opposite
page) The watch is also
offered in Canopus gold
stepped configuration and paired with bowed minute and chronograph
seconds hands that follow the contour of the stepped dial closely.
A further detail on the dial are the new three-hash divisions on the
seconds scale on the periphery of the dial, which is in line with the 3Hz
frequency of the caliber 3861 as opposed to the five-hash divisions on
the 105.012, which was powered by the caliber 321 and had a 2.5Hz
frequency. Lastly, the bezel on the timepiece is an anodized aluminum
insert that has been given the famous “Dot over Ninety” (DON) detail.
Case and movement aside, there’s yet more to be said about the
bracelet of the new watch. The new bracelet is a fully brushed bracelet
with five arched links per row — a design that was first seen on the
Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Moonshine Gold Limited Edition. The
clasp, however, is what takes the cake, featuring the same ribbing and
Omega logo from the BA145.022.
THE VARIATIONS
The 2021 Speedmaster is first offered in stainless steel with options for
either hesalite glass or sapphire crystal. The hesalite-glass versions are
offered on a steel bracelet or a nylon fabric strap, while the sapphirecrystal
version comes with a steel bracelet or a leather strap. Additional
point to note here is that the sapphire-crystal version features a display
caseback, while the hesalite-glass variation has a closed caseback.
Next, the Speedmaster will also be offered in precious metal versions.
Starting with Sedna gold, Omega’s own take on rose gold, which is an
alloy made using gold, copper and palladium. As this is 18K gold, at least
75 percent of the formulation of Sedna gold is accounted for by gold.
The last instance is in Canopus gold, Omega’s take on
white gold. Unlike other instances of white gold, Canopus
gold isn’t rhodium-plated; thus it is said to be able to
retain its bright, white color for a much longer time.
Both the Sedna gold and Canopus gold versions will be
offered with matching full gold bracelets or leather straps.
CALIBER 3861
First introduced in the Apollo 11 50th Anniversary
Moonshine Gold Limited Edition, with the movement
in Moonshine gold-treated bridges and plates, the
2021 Speedmaster now gets this updated Master
Chronometer-certified movement across the
board. This guarantees Omega’s elevated standard
of precision, chronometric performance and antimagnetism
in the industry.
All Moonwatch movements will, henceforth, be
subject to the eight stringent tests, overseen by the Swiss
Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), before they
are marked Master Chronometer certified.
Part of the reason caliber 3861 is able to withstand
Omega’s own battery of tests is the use of non-ferrous
materials within, such as the Si14 balance spring, which
keeps the watch’s regulating organ out of reach of the
perils of magnetism for up to extremes 15,000 gauss
(the same level as a typical MRI scanner).
SPLIT SECONDS 39

The early Gallet
Flight Officer
featured a
modified Venus
150 chronograph
movement in a
water-resistant
“Clamshell” case
OVERLOOKED
GIVE ’EM A GALLET, HARRY!
Clear purpose and a presidential patron ensure enduring charm for Gallet.
Words Felix Scholz
In the lead up to the Second World War, it quickly
became clear that aviation would be a critical
front. It was also apparent that the United States
Army Air Corps needed pilots, and lots of them. In
1939, the Air Corps had some 20,000 men and a few
thousand planes. By 1945, those numbers had swelled
to 80,000 planes and some 2.4 million personnel.
Playing no small part in this massive expansion
process was the then-senator from Missouri, Harry
S Truman. Truman was instrumental in regulating
the civil aviation industry, including the launching of
the Civilian Pilot Training Programme in 1938, with
the ostensible purpose of increasing the number of
civilian pilots. In reality, the programme existed to
prepare the United States for war in the air.
Pilots and planes were only part of the equation,
and the American military quickly found that it
needed whole quartermaster depots’ worth of stuff
to keep everything up in the air — including watches.
Time, and tracking it accurately, was critical for a
range of navigational tasks, not to mention the more
mundane role of keeping track of the actual time
across the globe.
Enter Léon Gallet. In the mid-1930s, Gallet is
one of the many venerable La-Chaux-de-Fondsbased
makers who, like the rest of the industry, spent
the first half of the 20th century pivoting from the
pocket to the wrist. According to the most widely
accepted version of the story, Léon, the scion of the
clan, was acquainted with Harry S Truman prior to
the latter’s career in politics. So when the time came
for Gallet to pitch for a lucrative US-military contract
to make pilot’s watches, Léon made the most of his
relationship with Truman.
40 SPLIT SECONDS

The watch that Gallet had in mind was quite
impressive for the time: a modified Venus 150
chronograph movement in the brand’s robust
and water-resistant “Clamshell” case. The real
innovation, though, was a rotating external bezel
graduated with a 12-hour scale, which, when
combined with the city ring printed on the outer
section of the watch’s dial, allowed for the wearer to
calculate the time across the globe quickly. Truman,
who had served in a field artillery regiment in the First
World War, had his own suggestion as to the design
of this multi-purpose pilot’s watch, based on his
experience — the addition of a central tachometry
scale. Unfortunately for Léon, his watch costed more
than the United States military was comfortable
spending on a mass-issued timepiece. So, even with
Senator Truman’s endorsement, the watch was only
available on an as-needed basis, and initially available
only to flight officers, which is where the model’s name
(also referred to as the “Flying Officer”) came from.
By Gallet’s own estimation, hundreds of these
watches were used by American (and British) aviators
in the Second World War, but it wasn’t until 1945 that
the watch achieved real fame, once again courtesy of
Harry S Truman. Truman was sworn in as president
on April 12th, 1945, months before the end of the war.
And President Truman was known to wear a Gallet
Flight Officer regularly. His watch, which is now part
of the collection of the Harry Truman Presidential
Library and Museum in Missouri, was an early
serial number 64112. The caseback also bears the
inscription “Col. Truman From Vic Paul”, apparently
two of his senate staffers.
The story of the Flight Officer doesn’t end with
President Truman. In fact, the hard-wearing and
practical little 34.5mm watch went on to have a long
(Clockwise from top left) Former US President Truman wearing his
Gallet; With its internal city display and 12-hour bezel, the Gallet
Flight Officer functions as a simple, but effective, world timer;The
engraved caseback of Truman’s Gallet
and distinguished career, both civilian and military.
In 1953, the third generation of the model increased
the case dimensions to 37mm. From the 1960s until
production ceased in 1979, the watch was issued to
the Swiss military, and offered in a range of sizes and
configurations. Along the way, the ageing Venus 150
was replaced by a manual Landeron 149, and even a
Valjoux 7735.
It’s easy to see the appeal of the Flight Officer
today. The clean case lines, pump pushers and
practical dual-time bezel have inherent charms.
The dial, which might lack some of the name cachet
of other military watches of the same era, more
than makes up for it with the sheer amount of other
purposeful printing on the dial.
For a vintage pilot that flies a little different, keep
an eye out for the Gallet Flight Officer.
SPLIT SECONDS 41

P R I M E
T I M E

SPOTLIGHT ON
LVMH WATCH WEEK 2021
BVLGARI, HUBLOT AND ZENITH UNVEILED STUNNING NOVELTIES TO KICK-START THE YEAR
BVLGARI: NEW SPORTS-INSPIRED OCTO FINISSIMO WATCHES
Bvlgari ups the ante with its new sports-inspired Octo Finissimo watches and
the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon.
Words Sumit Nag
Let’s rewind to January 2020, when the last proper
international watch fair, the first-ever LVMH Watch
Week, was held at the freshly opened Bvlgari Hotel in
Dubai. It was on this occasion that Bvlgari announced the Octo
Finissimo S, a 40mm extra thin, satin-polished steel version of
the time-only, automatic Octo Finissimo.
Bvlgari announced the watch with a radiant blue dial and
another option with a stealthy black dial. And as much as it
seemed that Bvlgari was off to make another great year for itself
from there, 2020 clearly had different plans. Two months later,
in March, the world came to a standstill — with Bvlgari’s home
country being particularly hard hit. Watches & Wonders had
to take on a new digital form; Baselworld went up in smoke.
The watchmaking industry was, simply put, in disarray. In
the midst of all this, Bvlgari chose to forge its own 2020.
Led by CEO Jean-Christophe Babin, Bvlgari stepped in
to help communities affected by the COVID-19 pandemic
— from donating a 3D imaging microscope that would allow
researchers to take the next step in combating the virus to
manufacturing a hand sanitizer with a fragrance partner. In
June 2020, Bvlgari also announced their partnership with
Oxford University’s Edward Jenner Institute to help fund their
efforts towards a vaccine.
Having lent its hand towards bettering the world, Bvlgari
then turned its attention to the Swiss watch industry and
organized a small gathering of local and EU-based folks in
Geneva for Geneva Watch Days in late August 2020. It was
there that Bvlgari announced their sixth record breaker, the
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic,
at just 3.50mm thick.
“Last year, with the crisis, we had a temporary closure of
our manufacturer, but it was pretty short,” says Mr. Babin.
“Since September, we have been at full speed with watches
and movements; full capacity. We didn’t lay off anyone and we
plan, even this year, if things continue to do well, to hire new
people. So this has also had a very positive impact, I would say,
PRIME TIME 43

on the employment market, which for Switzerland has
been pretty unstable. Switzerland has suffered like
any other country, and we are very proud that despite
everything, we could make it, we could further grow at
the end of the year and that 2021 surely will allow us
to capitalize.”
In a year when many things we had come to know
of life ceased to be, Bvlgari forged its own path. As
a result, 2021 looks more like a year of business
as usual, than one in which the brand has to figure
everything out from square one. With this in mind,
let’s now talk about the latest Octo Finissimo watches.
Octo Finissimo S
Steel Silvered Dial
ref. 103464
OCTO FINISSIMO S CHRONOGRAPH GMT STEEL REF. 103467
Fresh to the Octo Finissimo S range is the Chronograph GMT —
in stainless steel, of course. The case is now thicker at 8.75mm,
as opposed to the extra thin titanium launch edition, which was
6.9mm. Along with the new screw-down crown, the additional
thickness was, no doubt, a necessary accommodation in order to
have the watch be rated water resistant to 100 meters.
The diameter of the case has also taken on a millimeter now, at
43mm, which houses a blue sunray-brushed dial with silver GMT,
chronograph and seconds counters. The movement within, though,
is the same record breaker of 2019, the 3.30mm thin BVL 318.
The last on the list of the new Octo Finissimo watches is
not an addition to the steel sports line, but a sportier addition,
nonetheless, Read our in-depth review of the Octo Finissimo
Chronograph GMT Titanium on page 82.
BVLGARI
OCTO FINISSIMO S CHRONOGRAPH GMT STEEL REF. 103467
MOVEMENT Self-winding caliber BVL 318 with peripheral rotor;
55-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds, GMT and chronograph
CASE 43mm; satin-polished steel with transparent caseback; radial
brushed bezel; polished steel screw-down
crown set with ceramic inlay; water resistant to 100m
STRAP Integrated vertically brushed steel bracelet with folding clasp
PRICE USD 16,500
The 43mm Octo
Finissimo S
Chronograph GMT
Steel ref. 103467
OCTO FINISSIMO S STEEL SILVERED DIAL REF. 103464
We pick things up with an extension to the family of
Octo Finissimo S, with a new dial but the same BVL138
Finissimo caliber within, resulting in the same 6.4mm
thinness. The new dial in this instance is a silvered
vertical-brushed one — an all-gray stealth powerhouse
of a timepiece.
BVLGARI
OCTO FINISSIMO S STEEL SILVERED DIAL REF. 103464
MOVEMENT Self-winding caliber BVL138 (2.23mm thick);
60-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes and small seconds
CASE 40mm; satin-polished steel with transparent
caseback; polished steel screw-down crown set with
ceramic inlay; water resistant to 100m
STRAP Integrated vertically brushed steel bracelet with
polished parts and folding clasp
PRICE USD 12,000

three hammers sounding three tones, plays
the note C for the hours, the mid-re-C
notes in sequence for the quarters, and the
mid-note for the minutes.”
Powering all of the necessary functions,
no doubt, requires a great deal of energy,
which is why Bvlgari has equipped the
BVL428 with two separate barrels: the
first dedicated to the chiming mechanism,
which is designed in a way that it rearms
itself every time the chime is triggered; the
alternate barrel is there to provide 75 hours
of power reserve to the timing mechanism
and has to be manually wound.
Powering it is the newly
minted manually wound
caliber BVL428 with
two barrels — one for
the striking mechanism
and the other for the
time keeping
OCTO ROMA CARILLON TOURBILLON
Not so much an Octo Finissimo, but an Octo regardless, is the new
Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon. As its name suggests, the watch is a
minute repeater with a three-hammer carillon with Westminster chime,
regulated by a tourbillon. Making the watch come alive is the newly
minted manually wound caliber BVL428 that measures in at 35mm wide
and 8.35mm thick.
The movement itself is said to be a showcase of Bvlgari’s watchmaking
know-how, elevated further by the brand’s in-house casemaking.
Accordingly, the 44mm “generous proportions of the case are designed to
maximize sound propagation, allowing for increased torque of the threehammer
construction and more sound power production.” Specifically, the
mid-case is designed to maximize sound and allow for the most volume and
resonance. The case internals are also hollowed out according to design,
to reduce the amount of metal between inside and outside. Then there are
three openings that correspond to the three chimes, which allow for the
sound to travel unencumbered outside of the case’s internal chamber.
The movement also has its chimes fixed directly to the case body for
maximal transmission of sound, which is more so aided by the titanium
used for the case. Bvlgari has even hollowed and revamped the back of the
case with an intentionally crafted titanium grid that protects this resonance
zone and allows the audio produced to be projected out of the case.
Bvlgari goes on to say that the gongs of the BVL428 are forged by
hand before being annealed at a temperature of 900°F. The metal
surface is then cleaned before another round of heating in an oven
at 500°F, which at last gives it the physical qualities necessary for
crystalline resonance. Adjustments to each gong is then made by a master
watchmaker, carefully coaxing out the necessary notes for a Westminster
chime, as stated by Bvlgari: “The melodic sequence of this carillon with
BVLGARI
OCTO ROMA CARILLON TOURBILLON
MOVEMENT Self-winding caliber BVL428 with manual
winding mechanism; 75-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, minute repeater, threehammer
carillon with Westminster chime and tourbillon
CASE 44mm; black DLC-coated titanium with matte
finish; openworked titanium middle case, specially
conceived to enhance sound performances
STRAP Black rubberized alligator with black DLCcoated
titanium three-blade folding buckle
PRICE USD 259,000
AVAILABILITY Limited edition of 15 pieces
PRIME TIME 45

The Hublot
Classic Fusion
Takashi
Murakami All
Black is both
watch and art,
featuring the
famed Japanese
artist’s smiling
flowermotifinall
black with 563
diamonds
HUBLOT AT THE FOREFRONT
Launches such as the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami
All Black and the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Orange
Sapphire show off Hublot’s spirit of innovation and bold
exciting collaborations.
Words Bhanu Chopra, Sumit Nag, Ross Povey
HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION
TAKASHI MURAKAMI ALL BLACK
The Art of Fusion is a philosophy that has allowed Hublot
to create some of the most unorthodox timepieces in
the market today, time and time again. It’s an approach
that has enabled Hublot to seamlessly become a part of
universes far removed from its own. Often, it’s a matter
of delving into the sciences, through their metallurgy
department, to produce such novel precious materials as
the world’s first scratch resistant gold, Magic Gold — a
chemical mix of ceramic and 18K gold.
At other times, their partnerships and friendships
with corporations and individuals, who are masters in
their own domains, allow for Hublot to be visible far
outside of the immediate watch crowd, such as in the
realms of film, art, music and sports. This then creates
the opportunity for someone who might not otherwise
know much about the world of horology, to become
acquainted with the brand.
But in the most extraordinary instances, it creates,
for Hublot, an avenue to tap on the expertise of
others, in order to create watches unlike any others in
existence. Consider the Big Bang Sang Bleu — made
possible thanks to the partnership Hublot forged with
Maxime Büchi. When seen from a distance, the Sang
Bleu is unmistakably the Big Bang in form, but in close
proximity you’ll realize that what you have in front of
you is anything but ordinary. Another phenomenal
collaboration was 2017’s Techframe Ferrari 70 Years
Tourbillon Chronograph. This is a watch that was
dreamt up and designed in the stables of Ferrari in
Maranello, Italy, under the guidance of Ferrari’s own
head of design, Mr. Flavio Manzoni.
Today, Hublot is announcing yet another
distinguished partnership, this time with the
contemporary artist Takashi Murakami. Born in
Tokyo, Japan, Murakami is best appreciated for his
ability to mix training in traditional Japanese art with
popular culture in a way that is unique to himself.
His art, often, deliriously full of color and cheer,
melds what is considered high art with that which is
considered pedestrian. But Murakami’s seemingly
innocent work often hides a dark message, “a subtle
critique of Japan’s contemporary culture as well as
the West’s intruding influence upon it,” as explained
in his artist’s profile on theartstory.org. Take, for
Powered by the
self-winding
MHUB1214
UNICO movement
with 72-hour
power reserve
46 PRIME TIME

instance, Murakami’s inspiration behind his most
famous work, Flower, which originally was meant to
carry an undertone of the message of devastation from
the Hiroshima and Nagasaki bombings, in 1945.
Since its debut in 1995, Murakami’s Flower has
been seen on collaborations with the likes of Ben
Baller, Kanye West, Supreme, Louis Vuitton, Virgil
Abloh — just to name a few. Now at long last, Hublot
has approached him to bring his art into the world of
Swiss watchmaking.
Murakami recounts, “My friend Fed Tan [Federico
Tan of fashion marketing agency, Social/Capital] in
Hong Kong messaged me. I think about three times
back in the fall of 2019, Michael Tay of The Hour Glass
was hoping to meet with me about a collaboration
with Hublot. I had already done a deeply involved
watch collaboration with a Japanese independent
watchmaker, Hajime Asaoka, and it was a complication
watch, so I thought perhaps that was enough for
me. But after receiving many fervent requests for a
meeting, I agreed to it, albeit hesitantly. Whether to do
a collaboration or not, however, was a different story.
My wish was to be involved in watchmaking at the level
where I could design a completely original piece, and
my decision depended on whether that was possible.
“When I explained this at the meeting, Miwa-san
[Miwa Sakai, Asia Pacific regional director at Hublot,
Japan] said it was absolutely possible, and that she
wanted me to visit their factory in Switzerland so that
they can prove it. So, I visited and toured the factory
in early 2020, and was absolutely, truly blown away,
seeing how it enfolded both the superhigh technology,
and artisan techniques and values. I was convinced
that it would be possible for them to make the kind
of watch I envisioned, and so I humbly decided to go
forward with the collaboration.”
The clear path from there was to put Murakami’s
Flower onto the face of a Hublot watch. But it was his
own personal vision and the enthusiastic willingness
of the watchmakers at the Hublot manufacture in
Nyon, that ultimately ensured that we weren’t going to
end up with simply a watch dial printed with the motif.
“People think of the smiling flower when they
think of Takashi Murakami, so it was an obvious
choice,” explains Murakami. “The one thing I did
request was to go all-black on our first collaboration.
This was because the very first impression I had when
I learned about Hublot was its signature black rubber
belt. And they made my wish come true.”
In close collaboration, Murakami and Hublot
decided the watch would be a Classic Fusion and that
it would have a solitary flower — but the flower had
to be three-dimensional and dynamic. For this, the
watchmakers at Hublot placed the face of the flower in
the form of a stationary dome on top of a sapphire disc.
Then 12 petals were mounted on a ball-bearing system,
such that they would spin freely as you wear the watch.
Lastly, for the finishing touch, the flower’s face and
petals are adorned with a total of 563 black diamonds.
The resulting watch is a superb demonstration
of creativity, imagined by Takashi Murakami and
realized by Hublot. Says CEO Hublot, Ricardo
Guadalupe, “Takashi Murakami is an international
star, not only in contemporary art circles, but also
with the general public. He shakes up the borders
between art and pop culture. It is a real privilege
to have him join our team of ambassadors. We are
delighted with the launch of this watch-work of art!”
HUBLOT
CLASSIC FUSION TAKASHI MURAKAMI ALL BLACK
MOVEMENT Self-winding UNICO caliber MHUB1214;
72-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes and seconds
CASE 45mm; satin-finished and polished black ceramic;
water resistant to 50m
STRAP Black lined rubber with black-plated stainless steel
deployant buckle clasp
PRICE USD 27,300
AVAILABILITY Limited edition of 200 pieces
PRIME TIME 47

BIG BANG TOURBILLON AUTOMATIC
ORANGE SAPPHIRE
The humble orange is something of an in-house
celebrity, thanks to its integral role in the preparation
of the perfect Negroni, our house drink. Sweet or
bitter, orange or blood red, dried or juicy — it’s a
versatile fruit. And so, when we saw the familiar hue
on one of the new novelties unveiled by Hublot, the
Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Orange Sapphire, we
couldn’t help but smile.
But if you’re going to be the leaders in the use of
innovative materials and break new ground, then an
in-house facility is what is needed. This is exactly what
Hublot has in its Metallurgy and Materials laboratory,
a dedicated research and development initiative that
has worked with a level of tenacity that can only be
applauded, to create solutions to the brand’s desire to
use novel materials in its watchmaking.
Sapphire and ceramic are two such examples,
and the former has now been created in a proprietary
guise in a kaleidoscope of options. Clear and black,
red and blue, and most recently, yellow. Now Hublot
has unveiled orange sapphire, a world’s first for a
material that is through-tinted, and achieved by
the use of titanium and chromium in a top-secret
manufacturing process. The product is as striking as
it is novel, with the transparent nature of the orange
sapphire allowing the observer to see through the case
to the magic that lies therein.
The micro-rotor
sits at 12 o’clock
as a perfect visual
balance to the
tourbillon in its
cageat6o’clock
Thetransparencyoforangesapphiremeansyou
get to see through the case to the magic within
HUBLOT
BIG BANG TOURBILLON AUTOMATIC ORANGE SAPPHIRE
MOVEMENT Self-winding caliber MHUB6035; 72-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes and tourbillon
CASE 45mm; polished orange sapphire; water resistant to 30m
STRAP Transparent orange rubber with lined relief
PRICE USD 169,000
AVAILABILITY Limited to 50 pieces
The watch houses a new automatic tourbillon
manufacture caliber. While Hublot’s case material
development is one of its strongest suits, it also has some
serious know-how when it comes to watchmaking. The
most noticeable element of the caliber MHUB6035 is its
transparency that almost looks like an optical illusion.
However, there’s no trickery in the mastery of this
movement’s 72-hour power reserve and the fact that it is
an automatic tourbillon. The transparency comes from
sapphire bridges, and a sapphire dial onto which Arabic
numerals are applied, which seemingly float above the
movement. The tourbillon sits in its cage at the expected
position of six o’clock, but where this movement turns
convention on its head, is the placement of the micro-rotor
at 12 o’clock on the face of the dial, as the perfect visual
balance to the tourbillon. We are used to having to turn a
watch over to see the oscillating weight do its job, so it’s a
bold and masterful stroke to place it on the dial instead.
Founded in 1980, Hublot is a relatively new kid on
the block, yet it constantly pushes the boundaries and
innovates. The Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Orange
Sapphire is a symbol of what we can all use at the moment:
a vibrant and optimistic reminder to keep on keeping on
for the challenges ahead. Here’s to a happy 2021!
48 PRIME TIME

HUBLOT BIG BANG INTEGRAL IN THREE CERAMIC CASES
To celebrate the 15th anniversary of the Big Bang series in 2020, Hublot
presented the Big Bang Integral with an integrated bracelet. This was the
first time the brand had implemented the integrated bracelet — and not
a moment too soon, since such bracelets are very much in vogue. Thanks
to the popularity of the series, Hublot is extending the current lineup of
black ceramic, titanium and King Gold models with three new ceramic
models in white, navy blue and gray.
The ceramic Big Bang Integral watches feature a monobloc
architecture: the case, bezel, caseback and bracelet are all crafted from
a uniform, coloured ceramic for a cohesive timepiece that draws all
attention to the openworked dial and sapphire-crystal back. The pushers
and crown, except for the rubber molding added for functional comfort,
mirror the alternating bevels and chamfers of the 42mm case. Hublot’s
signature H-shaped titanium screws adorn the polished ceramic bezel.
The timepiece is made entirely from ceramic except for the bezel
lugs and the rubber elements on the crown and the pushers. Hublot has
perfected the material composition of the ceramic with an optimum
fusion of hardness and lightness. The ceramic is two to three times
harder than steel, yet it is 30 percent lighter for wearing comfort.
The dial has simple markers and skeletonized baton hands — both
treated with luminescence for low-light readability. The running
seconds and chronograph dial are also designed with a peek-through
transparency to allow minimum obstruction of the view to the movement
behind. A striking feature of this design are the etched numerals of the
date indicator visible around the periphery of the movement with the date
window integrated into the 60-minute chronograph subdial.
Hublot utilized its in-house HUB1280 column wheel automatic
chronograph movement with flyback function. The double-clutch
mechanism and column wheel are clearly visible
from the dial side. This movement is a significant
upgrade from the base caliber HUB1242 with four
new patented innovations: oscillating seconds
clutch, chronograph friction system with ballbearing
adjustment, ratchet retaining system with
unidirectional gears, and an index assembly fine
adjustment system.
The ceramic bracelet is also beveled and
chamfered in alignment with the case and bezel lug,
and the first link is fused to the case for seamless
integration. The wide central link and two narrow
lateral links are satin-finished and polished, and the
bracelet closure is a deployant buckle clasp.
HUBLOT
BIG BANG INTEGRAL CERAMIC
MOVEMENT Self-winding UNICO column wheel
caliber HUB1280; 72-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, seconds, date and
flyback chronograph
CASE 42mm; ceramic; water resistant to 100m
STRAP Integrated ceramic bracelet with titanium
deployant clasp
PRICE USD 23,100
The watch is made
entirely from
ceramic except for
the bezel lugs and
the rubber elements
on the pushers and
the crown

The layout of the
Chronomaster Sport
is made extremely
intuitive thanks
to all counters
being calibrated
to 60 divisions
ZENITH TAKES ON PAST AND FUTURE
Zenith’s showcase at the LVMH Watch Week 2021
included the Chronomaster Sport, the Chronomaster A385
Revival, the Defy 21 Urban Jungle and the Pilot Type 20
Chronograph Silver.
Words Wei Koh
ZENITH CHRONOMASTER SPORT — ACTIVATE
LIGHTNING MODE
When you look at the new 41mm steel Zenith
Chronomaster Sport, you realize you’re looking at
a greatest hits list of iconic Zenith design codes.
First you have the dial layout — in particular, the
three subdials arrayed inverted pyramid style, which
comes from the A386 launched back in the Summer
of Love in 1969 and introduced the world to the
integrated automatic chronograph. You’ve also got
the black bezel from both the A277 pre-El Primero
Chronograph and the legendary El Primero Rainbow,
although this unit is now rendered in decidedly
modern ceramic and engraved with a very unique
10-second scale with exactly 100 distinct hash marks
— but more on this later. Then you have the polished
and satin-finished bracelet from the Zenith De Luca.
But most distinct is the incredible 1/10th of a second
display that comes from Zenith’s Striking 1/10th — a
model that was introduced a decade ago, but had been
dropped from the Zenith lineup before current CEO
Julien Tornare joined the company.
Tornare says, “This display creates what I like
to think of as a super chronograph that perfectly
highlights our status as the master of precision
timekeeping. The Zenith El Primero has been the only
chronograph movement for over half a century that
is capable of accurately dividing time to 1/10th of a
second. The new Chronomaster Sport showcases this
in an incredibly dynamic way.”
What Tornare refers to is the following. When
you pick up the Zenith Chronomaster Sport, you’ll
think it’s nice, in the same way you think the girl
next door with the freckles is nice. You’ll strap it to
your wrist, and you’ll like all the small details that
are perfectly sorted by Zenith’s head of products,
Romain Marietta. The case is really well executed in
that it feels great when you wear it, and it’s certainly
ergonomic. The large visible bevels bring the
stirrings of excitement, the ceramic bezel is definitely
welcome, and the vintage pump-style chronograph
pusher adds a bit of retro modern appeal. But then you
50 PRIME TIME

push the chronograph start button, and that’s when
the “Oh, shit!” moment happens. All of a sudden,
the chronograph seconds hand leaps into action and
starts to rotate around the dial at a dizzying pace.
This is the equivalent of that day at the beach when
the girl next door kicks off her Havaianas, removes
the scrunchie from her hair, slips off her cut-off
shorts and tosses her Wu-Tang Clan T-shirt on the
sand, and you realize you’ve been living next to a
supermodel the whole time.
Similarly, looking at the dial of the Chronomaster
Sport, you’ll struggle to comprehend what’s going on
at first. “Has my watch been taken over by some crazed
demon? Is it possessed?” you might ask. But what’s
going on is that this very special El Primero movement
has one major modification: its chronograph drive
wheel is actually an accelerator wheel with 100 teeth,
and this is driving the chronograph hand to adopt
precisely 100 unique positions on the dial every 10
seconds — meaning that at any time you stop it, a
highly visible 1/10th-of-a-second measurement can
be read off the ceramic bezel.
“But wait,” you say. “How do you calculate a
traditional chronograph reading?” Check out the
three counters on the dial of this badass watch. What
is unique and a detail I love is that every single one
of the counters is calibrated to “60”: the counter at
three o’clock is the elapsed chronograph seconds
and advances 10 seconds with each revolution of the
central seconds hand on the dial; the counter at six
o’clock is the chronograph minutes, which is calibrated
to 60 minutes; the counter at nine o’clock is calibrated
to 60 seconds and is the continuous seconds counter.
This is one of the most intuitive and straightforward
ways of reading and measuring time. Tornare says,
“I gave the watch to my young son and didn’t tell him
anything. He looked at it and immediately understood
how you use it to measure time. I knew that if he could
instinctively and immediately understand how to use it,
it would be perfect.”
One other thing I like about the Chronomaster
Sport is that it represents a very strong value
proposition. Tornare, who was educated at the school
of Jean-Claude Biver, believes in one of the core
ethos perpetuated by the great man — that a watch
should overdeliver in its perceived value. Priced
at USD 10,000 on a steel bracelet or USD 9,500
on a strap — I would advise you to just choose the
bracelet at that small supplement — the 2021 Zenith
Chronomaster Sport is the SAME price as the Striking
1/10th, which was launched a full decade ago. Plus, the
new watch has seriously upped the quality game with
touches like the ceramic bezel. The Chronomaster
Sport also comes in both a white and black dial.
It is meant to be that do-anything, go-anywhere
chronograph that serves you unfailingly, is incredibly
comfortable and reliable, but whose superpower you
can unleash at any moment. I actually look forward to
dinner parties where I’m sat next to someone else that
has on one of the more entrenched market-leading
chronographs when he queries about my watch.
I’ll pass it over to him and tell him to press the start
button, after which the chronograph seconds hand
suddenly ignites into lightning mode and starts blazing
its trail around the dial at high velocity. I feel that this
watch should be accompanied by a theme song like
AC/DC’s “Thunder” or Judas Priest’s “Lightning
Strike” whenever the start button is activated.
Tornare says, “I like how you call this the
‘lightning mode.’ Of course, we also have our super
foudroyante watch at Zenith, which is the Defy El
Primero 21 — a timepiece where the central chrono
hand adopts 100 positions every second — but I like
to think that the Chronomaster Sport sits just below
this in its time-measuring abilities. At Zenith, we
have the best traditional chronographs — we now
have the Chronomaster Sport with the 1/10th of a
second chronograph display, and we have the Defy El
Primero 21. I think I can say that as a brand known for
measuring time, our offering is very complete.”
As usual, Tornare is right.
(From left) The automatic El Primero
3600; The 2021 Chronomaster Sport’s
black ceramic bezel is made unique
thanks to its innovative 1/10th of a
second scale markings which makes it an
appropriate for reading time off from a
chronograph powered by the El Primero
3600, which is made to perform to this
specific accuracy
ZENITH
CHRONOMASTER SPORT
MOVEMENT Self-winding El Primero caliber 3600; 60-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds and 1/10th of a second
chronograph
CASE 41mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 100m
STRAP Stainless steel bracelet with double-folding clasp, or rubber with
“Cordura fabric effect”
PRICE USD 10,000 on steel bracelet; USD 9,500 on rubber strap
PRIME TIME 51

DEFY 21 URBAN JUNGLE
I remember sitting in my living room in 2016 with my
dachshund in my lap, when Jean-Claude Biver, in his
capacity as the head of LVMH Watches, explained his
objective with the El Primero 21. He said, “Zenith’s
El Primero is an incredible movement, but it has
been around for a half century. So, I told the team at
Zenith, ‘You must create the El Primero of today, the El
Primero of the 21st century, and to do that you need to
go beyond the 10th of a second and master the 100th of
a second — but you must do so with a movement that is
reliable and also in a watch that is accessible in price.’”
He ended this emphatic statement by banging
my dining table so hard that my dog was momentarily
startled. But even more impressive was that the team at
Zenith had achieved this goal by 2017, two years ahead
of Zenith’s mid-century mark. They achieved this
by sharing competences with their LVMH brethren,
TAG Heuer — specifically, the movement for that
brand’s 1/100th of a second chronograph, known as
the Mikrograph. This was a 100-piece limited edition
that used two balance wheels, one for the time-telling
function, beating at 5Hz; the other for the chronograph
function of the watch, beating at 50Hz. The rationale
was simple: the chronograph oscillator was only
activated when the chronograph was started, so as to
allow for a decent power reserve for this function. But
the impressive thing was, of course, the integration
of this two-balance-wheel setup into a Zenith watch, which, when it
was launched, cost only USD 10,600 in a titanium case. This was a truly
remarkable value proposition, especially when you activated the start
button and became utterly mesmerized by a long, thin chronograph seconds
hand that completed a full revolution of the dial each second and adopted
precisely 100 positions along the perimeter of the dial along the way.
In comparison, a watch like François-Paul Journe’s Centigraph, which
costs five to six times as much, does not have a balance wheel truly beating
at 1/100th of a second, but instead uses a reduction gearing to achieve its
purpose. Furthermore, the Zenith Defy 21 also featured hairsprings made
from carbon nanotubes, which are not affected by magnetism.
For this year, Zenith is offering an Urban Jungle version of
this dazzling technical achievement, complete with a green khaki
scratchproof ceramic case, as well as an openworked dial with green
skeletonized baseplate. Tornare says, “The Defy 21 is the perfect
showcase for both our technical innovation as well as our affection for
material innovation. From a design perspective, this model represents
the modern and bold side of the family. If you were to start a watch like
the A385, you would see the world’s most famous chronograph movement
inside a charming retro-themed case with a seconds hand that completes
a full rotation of the dial every 60 seconds.
“Next to it you could place our new Chronomaster Sport with the
distinct 1/10th of a second display and the chronograph hand completing
a full rotation every 10 seconds. And then, next to this, I’d love to place
the Defy 21 with this incredible super foudroyante hand blazing around
the dial once per second, adopting 100 positions along the way. These
three watches perfectly represent how Zenith is the unrivaled master of
the chronograph.”
The Defy 21 Urban
Jungle with its 44mm
khaki green ceramic
case, powered by
the self-winding
El Primero 9004
automatic movement
ZENITH
DEFY 21 URBAN JUNGLE
MOVEMENT Self-winding El Primero caliber 9004; 50-hour
power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds and 1/100th of
a second chronograph
CASE 44mm; khaki green ceramic; water resistant to 100m
STRAP Black rubber with khaki green “Cordura fabric
effect” rubber; microblasted titanium double-folding clasp
PRICE USD 14,500
52 PRIME TIME

Pilot Type 20 Silver
Chronograph in a
45mm Silver 925 case
PILOT TYPE 20 SILVER CHRONOGRAPH
Zenith’s latest iteration of its Type 20 pilot’s chronograph, which pays tribute
to the brand’s timepieces that accompanied famous aviators such as Louis
Blériot in his history-defining traversing of the English Channel in 1909,
features a case crafted from a metal that was once used in the watch industry
widely but that has now become exceedingly rare: sterling silver.
Indeed, the last memorable usage of silver in watch cases were the Must
de Cartier Vermeil watches conceptualized in the 1970s as a means of
transmitting Cartier’s style and design to a much wider audience. Then there
was the Ralph Lauren hand-engraved Western watch, which is one of my
favorites of his timepieces in recent memory.
Julien Tornare explains, “Sterling silver adds a touch of warmth and also
helps to personalize and individualize each watch as it develops its own unique
patina. We combined this with a dial that is inspired by the hand-riveted
aluminum bodies of vintage aircraft and perfectly complements our use of
cathedral-style hands and an antique-finish brown calfskin strap. The result is
a truly charming watch that will be offered in a limited edition of 250 pieces.”
The brushed riveted dial with a shiny reflective effect
on the Pilot Type 20 Silver Chronograph
ZENITH
PILOT TYPE 20 SILVER CHRONOGRAPH
MOVEMENT Self-winding El Primero caliber 4069; 50-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds, date and 1/100th of a second
chronograph
CASE 45mm; sterling silver 925; water resistant to 100m
STRAP Brown calfskin leather with rivets and polished steel pin-buckle
PRICE USD 9,700
AVAILABILITY Limited edition of 250 pieces
PRIME TIME 53

DE BETHUNE:
TWO OF A KIND
Denis Flageollet’s first double-dialed beauty seduces and impresses
with both classic and contemporary good looks.
Words Wei Koh
54 PRIME TIME

Ican say with absolute certainty that we are amid the
renaissance for independent watchmaking. Part of this
has to do with some very clever market makers pushing
the secondary market prices of Philippe Dufour and early
François-Paul Journe watches into the stratosphere. But more
importantly, I feel that one of the major results of 2020 and
the social, spatial and existential isolation it has brought is the
longing for human connections.
Nowhere do you feel these more strongly in horology than
in the realm of independent watchmaking. That’s why when I
checked with many of my favorite independent watchmakers,
ranging from Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei of URWERK,
to the Grönefeld brothers to Richard and Maria Habring,
and even Stefan Kudoke, all of them were facing the happy
challenge of trying to supply adequate watches for the surging
global demand. I feel that this will remain one of the prevailing
collecting themes, because in a world over inundated with
marketing messages, we seek out those timepieces crafted with
the greatest authenticity and genuineness.
INDEPENDENT, UNSUNG HERO
When it comes to embodying these two characteristics I cannot
think of a better brand than De Bethune. Which is funny to
me because De Bethune has, for almost two decades, been
independent watch collecting’s unsung hero. Its horological
brain Denis Flageollet, considered by horological luminaries
such as Journe and Michael Tay of Singapore’s The Hour Glass
as one of history’s most gifted watchmakers and technical
innovators, has been toiling just beneath the radar. Throughout
the 19-year history of De Bethune, Flageollet has created
not one but a family of in-house oscillators, an in-house
hairspring with a patented terminal curve, a triple pare-chute
shock absorber that places the balance bridge on anti-shock
devices, a 5Hz 30-second tourbillon with the world’s lightest
cage weighing 0.18g, the first diving watch with a mechanically
powered LED light, a complete new chronograph coupling
system, a variable-gear ratio for automatic winding systems, a
system for floating skeletonized lugs, and so much more.
Of course, all of this would be irrelevant if De Bethune
watches were not beautifully designed. But the fact is that
they are absolutely ravishing. They express a design identity
that is wholly unique and that manages to be part sciencefiction
futurism, part 19th-century marine chronometer, with
a refinement in finish that is singular. De Bethune singlehandedly
elevated the titanium case from something related
to a functional tool watch into a canvas for what can only be
described as ethereal beauty. So incredible is the mirror
polishing of the brand’s titanium cases and dials that their
seemingly fathomless reflection of light reminds me of Anish
Kapoor’s seminal works. De Bethune also introduced us to
all-new aesthetic concepts such as the vivid flame Kind of
Blue watches, of which I am honored to own one of the limited
edition tourbillons.
Show a De Bethune to a hard-core watch collector and
watch him grow weak at the knees, seduced by this unique
combination of beauty, originality and technical innovation. So
why is it that De Bethune remains something of an undiscovered
gem from mainstream watch collecting? I believe that has to
do with an almost painful unwillingness to market themselves
in a more forthright and, for lack of a better term, commercial
way. They have not gone into the secondary market as many of
the smarter brands do to push up their prices; they do not have
a messianic cult-like leader traveling the world and converting
souls as many of the most successful independents do. They
do not evangelize about how amazing their contribution to the
horological canon is.
(Opposite page) The double-sided De Bethune Kind of Two Tourbillon
transformsbetweenitstwofacesalonganaxisonitsarticulatinglugs
(From left) Wei’s limited edition DB28 Kind of Blue; Master watchmaker and
founder of De Bethune, Denis Flageollet

Rather, for all their beauty and credibility, they are
a bit reserved, understated and overly modest in their
communication. Why? To me, this has to do with the personality
of the brand’s founder, Denis Flageollet, whom I’ve consistently
said is one of watchmaking’s greatest geniuses. However,
his innate character is one of extreme modesty and shyness.
Indeed, in direct contrast to several of the more successful
independent watchmakers whose message to the world basically
implies that they are geniuses, the very fact that I’ve called
Flageollet a genius has now made him painfully uncomfortable.
But I have resolved to promote De Bethune unabashedly
throughout this year, because at a time when many of our eyes
have turned back to independent watchmaking, it is important
to understand how profoundly rich and emotively poetic every
De Bethune watch is in terms of its vast authenticity and beauty.
DOUBLE IDENTITY AND PURPOSE
Kind of Two, a pun on the name Kind of Blue (De Bethune’s
highly successful collection of flame-blued titanium watches),
refers to the double-sided configuration of Flageollet’s latest
offer. In contemporary watchmaking, when we think of doublesided
watches, timepieces like the Reverso Duoface come to
mind or, in the realm of grand complications, watches such
as Patek Philippe’s Sky Moon Tourbillon and Grandmaster
Chime. In their best executions, double-sided watches are able
to express two distinct identities, depending on which face you
decide to display. This was certainly the impetus behind Kind of
Two, a watch with two distinct personalities, each linked to one
of the faces of the watch.
One side of the watch features Flageollet’s patented
tourbillon, which beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, and
which completes a full rotation twice a minute. Flageollet
explains, “For me, the faster rate and rotation speed elevate
the performance of the tourbillon complication.” A balance
beating at a fast rate has greater autonomy from the microshocks
that a wristwatch is subjected to on an almost constant
basis. In addition, high speed translates into greater accuracy,
which is why the brands such as Girard-Perregaux, Omega
and even Grand Seiko, which won the majority of the famous
Neuchâtel Chronometer Trials in the 1960s, invariably used
5Hz movements. But faster movements also consume more
power. To help overcome this, Flageollet has used one of his inhouse
oscillators crafted from titanium with platinum weights.
He explains, “This allows us to keep the balance as light
as possible but also have a very good moment of inertia where
the weight of the oscillator is placed toward its perimeter.”
It should be pointed out that this balance wheel is also free
sprung, which means its rate is adjusted using only the platinum
masses integrated into its arms. In addition, the entire titanium
balance is flame-blued, and the tiny platinum masses are
polished to perfection.
Says Pierre Jacques, the brand’s CEO, “This oscillator is
the perfect expression of who De Bethune is. From a technical
perspective, it is a brilliant design because it creates an
extremely light free-sprung balance but that is aerodynamically
efficient and also has very good inertia. But then from an
The dual faces of the DB Kind of Two
56 PRIME TIME

(From left) De Bethune’s incredible tourbillon cage that’s the lightest in the world at just 0.18g; Flageollet’s patented tourbillon
beats at 36,000 vph and features an in-house oscillator crafted from titanium with platinum weights
aesthetic perspective, crafted in flame-blued titanium and
platinum, it is also a work of sculptural beauty. While for most
brands the balance wheel is an afterthought, for us it is the
focus of intense creativity.”
THIN, LIGHT AND STEALTHY
Now let’s look at the cage of this incredible tourbillon. Made
from titanium and weighing just 0.18g — for your reference,
this means it is lighter than a single raindrop — it is the
lightest tourbillon cage in the world. In combination with
the oscillator, it means that the entire tourbillon mechanism
is ultra light, which allows De Bethune to accelerate its
rotational speed so that it completes a full rotation in just
30 seconds. What is the practical advantage of this?
Says Flageollet, “By averaging the errors caused by gravity
on the regulating organ twice as frequently, we are able to
elevate the chronometric performance of our tourbillon.” One
detail that I have always loved about De Bethune’s tourbillon
is that for all its lightness, Flageollet has also integrated a
seconds hand into the cage. Why? So that you can actually
measure its chronometric performance. I’ve always considered
any tourbillon without a seconds hand either on the dial or
integrated into the cage a total cop-out. It is equivalent to
creating a device meant to improve the accuracy of the watch but
removing any means of easily measuring its timing performance.
The rest of the dial on the tourbillon side of the watch is
wonderfully textured with a play on levels and volumes focused
around De Bethune’s signature delta-shaped bridge that
retains the jewels for the watch’s twin barrels. Another nice
detail is how the watch uses the circular track for the hour
indexes as the bridge for the tourbillon. Already in the brand’s
magnificent DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon, you had
a shift toward this integration, but in this watch, the tourbillon
bridge was still a unique separate component.
De Bethune’s Kind of Two flips from one side to the other
by riding on the brand’s patented spring-loaded floating lug
system. This lug system goes all the way back to 2006 when
Flageollet came out with a concept watch for his Maxichrono
that has this system. The Kind of Two adds a special cam system
to allow you to flip, align and lock your watch in place in one
highly intuitive gesture. When you do flip the watch over with
the crown now positioned at six o’clock, you will see the second
face of the dial, which brings to mind a marine chronometer
in its total commitment to displaying accurate timekeeping
information. If the first face where the tourbillon is on display
speaks of De Bethune’s sense of artistry and design, here you
have a somewhat rational face that serves two purposes. The
first is that you now have a huge central seconds hand to better
aid in timing events; the second is that you have now hidden the
tourbillon away, allowing the timepiece to become a model of
discreet stealth appeal.
Perhaps the most impressive thing about the Kind of Two
is its wearability. While the case measures about 43mm in
diameter, it also measures a mere 9.5mm in thickness, which
is rather remarkable for a double-sided watch. Says Pierre
Jacques, “We really took a big step in making our tourbillon
movement considerably thinner, thanks to our DB28 XP project
for the 10th anniversary of this model, and [we] applied those
innovations here.”
The result is a watch which, as a symbol of everything I love
about De Bethune, charms, seduces and impresses.
DE BETHUNE
KIND OF TWO
MOVEMENT Manual winding caliber DB2579; five-day
power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, seconds and tourbillon
CASE 42.8mm; grade 5 titanium; water resistant to 30m
STRAP Extra supple alligator leather with alligator lining
PRICE CHF 215,000
PRIME TIME 57

Maestro’s Masterpiece
Up close with Eric Clapton’s Patek Philippe white gold ref. 5970 with "brick" bracelet,
courtesy of the watch’s present owner.
Words Wei Koh

Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph ref. 1518 in stainless steel
with moonphases, applied Arabic hour markers, tachymeter scale and
bracelet, which sold for CHF 11,002,000 with Phillips during their Geneva
Watch Auction: FOUR in 2016 (Image: Phillips.com)
Rolex's historically important yellow gold automatic triple calendar wristwatch with
moonphases, black dial and diamond indexes ref. 6062; formerly the property of
Bao Dai, the last emperor of Vietnam; watch sold for CHF 5,066,000 with Phillips at
their Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE, in 2017 (Image: Phillips.com)
One of the best things that has transpired over the last
two years is my close friendship with a gentleman who
has asked to remain semi-anonymous for the purpose
of this story because of his profile as a collector.
We met thanks to a recommendation made by Auro
Montanari for dinner in Singapore and immediately hit it off.
My friend is tall, suave and has a penchant for relaxed Italian
tailoring worn in that irrepressible way of truly stylish men.
He is not only one of the most significant watch collectors in
the world, but his divestment of two of the world’s most iconic
watches — the Rolex ref. 6062 “Bao Dai,” which sold for
over USD 5 million, as well as a steel Patek Philippe ref. 1518
which achieved CHF 11 million in 2016 — has helped establish
Aurel Bacs and Phillips as the preeminent auctioneer and fine
vintage watch auction house of the new millennium. To say
that this gentleman sets a high horological watermark when
he’s around, is perhaps one of the greatest understatements
of all time.
For the purpose of this story, we shall call him H. From
time to time, H dispenses horological and sartorial advice
to me, which I am always pleased to receive. So it was with
some amount of curiosity that I awaited his arrival at Patek
Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition held in Singapore
last year. Never one to disappoint, H showed up with a
fantastic white gold Patek Philippe ref. 5970 on a “brick”
bracelet with Breguet numerals. It’s interesting, of course,
because there are no regular production versions of the
iconic Lemania 2310-based, CH 27-70-driven perpetual
calendar chronograph made by Patek. In fact, H’s watch
formerly belonged to the man most associated with bringing
Breguet numerals to Patek’s perpetual calendar chronographs:
Eric Clapton.
The fact that these indexes became the signature leitmotif
of Clapton’s special-order watches, speaks volumes for his
taste and understanding of Patek Philippe’s history. Because
ever since Patek first introduced the perpetual calendar
chronograph in the ref. 1518 in 1941, there have been no
perpetual calendar chronographs with Breguet numeral dials.
The Breguet numerals only staged a reappearance on the dial
of the ref. 5170 chronograph, and later, the ref. 5370 splitseconds
chronograph. Such dials are found in the most coveted
examples of the vintage chronographs ref. 130 and ref. 1463,
as well as their split seconds versions, the ref. 1436 and
ref. 1563. A Breguet numeral dial, which is universally viewed
by collectors as the most beautiful variant of these models, adds
a very considerable premium to the value of the watch.
PRIME TIME 59

Vintage Patek Chronographs
Patek Philippe ref. 130 steel chronograph with Breguet
numerals (Image: John Goldberger)
Patek Philippe ref. 1463 steel chronograph with Breguet numerals
and Tiffany stamped dial (Image: John Goldberger)
1946 Patek Philippe ref. 1436 yellow gold split seconds
chronograph with Breguet numerals (Image: Sothebys.com)
1947 Patek Philippe ref. 1563 gold split-seconds chronograph
with luminous Breguet-numeral dial (Image: Christies.com)
60 PRIME TIME

Formerly in the collection of Eric Clapton, CBE (from left): a white gold Patek Philippe ref. 3970 perpetual calendar
chronograph wristwatch with a salmon-colored tachymeter dial and applied Breguet numeral at 12 o'clock; a
pink gold Patek Philippe ref. 5004 perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph wristwatch with a special black
tachymeterdialandappliedBreguetnumeralat12o'clock(thewatchispresentlythepropertyofTheHour
Glass's permanent collection); a platinum Patek Philippe ref. 5004 perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph
wristwatch with a special blue tachymeter dial and applied Breguet numeral at 12 o'clock (Images: Phillips.com)
So it makes absolute sense that the ever-astute Clapton
would ask for these numerals on his pièce unique watches.
We’ve seen that the Breguet numeral is normally limited to
the 12 o’clock index in his ref. 3970 and ref. 5004 watches,
but why is that?
Well, these watches have a relatively small case size of
36.7mm, so the space on the dial is already limited. Now add to
this the fact that Clapton always ordered his watches with the
inclusion of a tachymeter, which regular production ref. 3970
and ref. 5004 watches don’t have, and the available space on
the dial is considerably reduced. Incidentally, the tachymeter
is a great inclusion, as it references both the ref. 1518 and
ref. 2499 first- and second-generation watches, which are the
most collectible Patek perpetual calendar chronographs of all
time. But once you add the Breguet 12 and the tachymeter, the
available space is only adequate for baton markers or, in the
case of Clapton through a stroke of genius, applied dot markers.
Why do I consider this a stroke of genius? Because if you
look at Patek vintage chronographs such as the ref. 130 and the
ref. 1463, you will see that in general, these dots are combined
with Roman markers, especially a Roman 12 o’clock index.
But this unusual combination of a Breguet 12, dot markers and
tachymeter made for what I consider the most handsome dial
combination of all time.
Hollywood superagent Michael Ovitz was clearly inspired
by Clapton when it came to his own special-order watches.
He basically got the same watches, but with Roman 12 o’clock
indexes, and he added luminous hands and markers, which,
because of space limitations, fell into the minute track.
Formerly the property of
Hollywood superagent
Michael Ovitz, a yellow gold
Patek Philippe ref. 5004
perpetual calendar split
seconds chronograph
wristwatch with special
luminous black dial and
applied Roman numeral at 12
o'clock (Image: Phillips.com)
PRIME TIME 61

Patek, too, must have also loved these dials because they
used the Eric Clapton configuration on the ref. 3970 watch
created in a rumored five pieces for the London Watch Art
Grand Exhibition in 2015. Although the configuration they
selected — rose gold with a black dial with a Breguet 12,
applied dot markers and tachymeter in white print — was
not used in any previous Clapton ref. 3970, it was used in the
aforementioned ref. 5004, which was sold in 2016 and today
resides in The Hour Glass’s permanent collection in Singapore.
When the Patek Philippe ref. 5970 was introduced in 2004,
Clapton was suddenly offered an exciting new possibility,
and that came down to one big difference between the 40mm
ref. 5970 versus the 36.7mm ref. 3970/5004: available dial
space. The ref. 5970 offered significantly more dial real estate
than its predecessor, which meant that even though the watch
already came standard with a handsome bold tachymeter,
Clapton could commission a watch with a full set of applied
Breguet numeral indexes. (When I say “full,” I mean 1, 2, 4,
8, 10, 11 and 12, as the watch’s subdials encroach on the space
normally occupied by the 3, 5, 6, 7 and 9 indexes.)
Formerly in the
collection of Eric
Clapton, CBE, a pink
gold Patek Philippe
ref. 5970 perpetual
calendar chronograph
wristwatch with a
white dial and applied
Breguet numerals
(Image: Sothebys.com)
The pink gold Patek
Philippe ref. 3970
perpetual calendar
chronograph
wristwatch with special
black tachymeter dial
and applied Breguet
numeralat12o'clock.
Only five of these were
produced by Patek
Philippe for their 2015
exhibition in London
(Image: Phillips.com)
And that’s exactly what he did — but this time, he
didn’t order just one watch, but a set of four ref. 5970s,
all with Breguet-numeral dials and fitted with brick
bracelets in matching metal, one of the most coveted
special-order upgrades around. It is important to
understand that in the context of the history of the
perpetual calendar chronograph, “brick” bracelets were
never sold separately by Patek Philippe and could only
be part of a special order for very important customers.
Indeed, it was only with the ref. 5270 in 2018 and the
ref. 5204 in 2016 that these bracelets made their way
into the regular production lineup. But the point is, in the
context of 2006, you had to be The Man to order a watch
with a brick bracelet; you had to be a legend to order
a watch with a special dial; and you had to be… well,
basically, Eric Clapton to order four ref. 5970 watches,
all with Breguet numerals and all with “brick” bracelets.
These watches were configured as follows: a white
gold watch with a silver dial and black rhodium indexes
and hands; a pink gold watch with a white dial. Note that
the configurations of the remaining two are unknown
publicly as it is only the aforementioned two that have
appeared in auction.
If you think about this, Clapton must have put in
his order for these watches shortly after they were
introduced in 2004, meaning that he very quickly saw the
62 PRIME TIME

PHOTO BY MARK THOMPSON / GETTY IMAGES
(From left) Musician Eric Clapton, CBE, wearing what is likely his unique Patek Philippe 5970G with applied Breguet numerals; his custom Patek Philippe ref. 5970
with moonphases, Breguet numerals and bracelet. It was sold with Sotheby's Hong Kong in 2018
design potential to execute his dream dial. He must have also
been so excited that he ordered four of them at a time. Note that
the bracelets are detachable, and the watches were also worn on
straps by Clapton, as seen in this image here.
At some point, Clapton started to divest of some of his
watches, though there is no clear understanding of exactly
which other watches he might have still kept. You can see the
listing for the pink gold ref. 5970 watch from this set of four
which was sold at Sotheby’s.
The pink gold watch sold for CHF 405,000, while the
white gold watch was sold at Sotheby’s in 2018 and achieved
HKD 4.92 million (about USD 635,000). So imagine my
utter delight when my buddy H came strolling into the hall of
Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition with this exact
white gold watch on his wrist.
Since I had the opportunity to examine and photograph this
amazing ref. 5970 up close, I decided to craft this story around
it. I was struck by how stunning it was and also by the fact
that it seemed to have actually been lovingly worn by Clapton.
If you look at the condition of the ref. 3970s and ref. 5004
sold at Phillips, those look comparatively unworn. The other
interesting thing was that the Breguet numerals used on
Clapton’s ref. 5970s are totally different from those used on his
ref. 3970 and ref. 5004 watches.
As you can clearly see, the Breguet numerals on the
ref. 5970 are taller and thinner, while the font used for the
smaller watches is more compact, thicker and a little more
squarish. I cannot think of a cooler and more appropriate guy to
own this masterpiece than my buddy H, and it makes me happy
to know it ended up with him.
PRIME TIME 63

PASSAGE OF TIME
The heart of Glashütte watchmaking, forged in 1845, beats still in the watchmakers of
Glashütte Original of the present day. It’s a long story with many hardships and successes along
the way, and the watches released by the company today marry rich traditions and historical
techniques with modern innovations and contemporary design. Here are five outstanding
representations of Glashütte Original’s collection.
PRECISE TIMEKEEPER: THE SENATOR CHRONOMETER
Used for navigation on the high seas, marine chronometers
are crafted with the utmost standard of accuracy and
reliability. Glashütte watchmakers have been designing
successful chronometers since the mid-1880s and the Senator
Chronometer is a tribute to that long history.
The Senator Chronometer debuted in 2009 with a creative
approach to display a traditional marine chronometer with
modern complications. Most recent is a limited edition in
a white gold case, with a bezel that takes the characteristic
concave shape of historic marine chronometers in a solid gold
dial with a manufactory movement plated in charming rose gold.
Constructed of solid gold and silver-plated by friction, the
dial gives a radiant background to the black Roman numerals
and railroad chapter ring. The elaborate finishing of the dial is
made in the manufactory at Pforzheim, Germany, much of it by
hand. The hands are an elegant pear shape and thermally heated
blue using traditional methods. The large sub-seconds at six
o’clock holds a nice symmetry to the running time indicator and
day/night indicator at 12 o’clock.
A large Panorama Date at three o’clock lends the otherwise
traditional dial a contemporary touch while boasting a clean
balance surrounded by the concave, knurled-edge bezel in a
polished white gold that brings a hint of refined masculinity. An
open case-back that reveals the rich rose gold of the movement
beneath the rear sapphire crystal complements this subdued dial.
One of the notable features of the caliber 58-03 manualwinding
movement is the stop-seconds and reset-to-zero
function, along with the minute detent. This means that when
the crown is pulled out for time adjustment, the time display will
stop and the seconds hand will reset to zero; the minutes will
then jump to the next position to ensure that the minutes and
seconds relationship is preserved for precise timekeeping.
The Senator Chronometer pairs well with a blue Louisiana
alligator leather strap that brings out the blued-steel accents of
the dial. This collectors’ timepiece is limited to only 25 pieces.
Running time with
day/night indicator
Knurled-edge bezel in
polished white gold
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SPECIAL

Senator Chronometer
Limited Edition in
white gold
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SPECIAL

Senator Cosmopolite
with ombré baguettecut
sapphires on the
bezel, and brilliant-cut
diamonds on the lugs
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SPECIAL

Caliber 89-02 automatic
movement, three-quarter
plate with Glashütte stripe
finish, bevelled edges,
skeletonized rotor with 21-
ct gold oscillation weight,
duplex swan-neck fine
adjustment
FREQUENT FLYER: THE SENATOR COSMOPOLITE
Traveling the world, seeing new sights and experiencing new
cultures, is a way of life for some. There is so much to learn
from visiting places different from your home, but it comes
with some added complexity when moving between time zones.
A good travel experience can be made that much better with a
great traveler’s timepiece.
The Senator Cosmopolite is an ambitious and modern world
traveler with a minimalistic vibe. Glashütte Original designed
the Cosmopolite with ease of use in mind for navigating through
different time zones. The dial is a crisp, white dial; bezel set
with sparkling precious stones—brilliant-cut diamonds on
the lugs and ombré baguette-cut sapphires on the bezel.
The markings in blue and black are highly legible, and there
is an inset home-time subdial at 12 o’clock for convenient
orientation with a crown at two o’clock for setting home time.
The home-time subdial also has a useful day/night indicator
and a power reserve indicator. An offsetting subseconds dial
is inset at six o’clock and a large destination Panorama Date
window is at four o’clock.
At eight o’clock is the destination time selection, based on
the IATA airport code for quick set convenience. This setting
will also drive the destination date, for added ease. There are 24
codes for the full-hour deviation time zones, marked with black
lettering. The Cosmopolite is a true travel watch with a solution
for the half-hour time zone challenge which many modern
GMT watches fall short on. The 35 time zones with a half-hour
offset are indicated with blue lettering, and three additional
time zones are included with red lettering. There is a crown at
eight o’clock to set the travel time for a quick adjustment.
At nine o’clock, there is a redesigned day/night indicator
represented by the sun and sky that adds an element of
whimsy to the utility-driven timepiece. The reverse of the dial
reveals the movement decorated with engravings and gold
embellishments, including the Glashütte Original double-G
logo design on the skeletonized rotor. One “G” faces backward
- looking to past for inspiration, while other faces forward -
looking to the future for continued innovation. This double-G
logo is seen across all Glashütte Original timepieces.
The Senator Cosmopolite has a significant wrist presence
with a 44mm dial and a thickness of 14mm. A blue Louisiana
alligator leather strap finishes the timepiece, complementing
the blued-steel accents from the hands of the dials and the
applique indices.
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SPECIAL

SeaQ Blue Diamonds
with 47 brilliantcut
diamonds and
a single sapphire
SENSATIONAL DIVER: SEAQ BLUE DIAMONDS
The SeaQ is a classic diver’s watch. However, Glashütte
Original offers a diamond and sapphire encrusted variation
that brings a touch of glamor to the functional timepiece.
The model is inspired by brand’s historical diver’s watch
from 1969, manufactured by then state-owned entity VEB
Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB). The Spezimatic Type RP
TS 200 was one of the many innovations out of the Glashütte
watchmaking industry, and Glashütte Original takes inspiration
from the original design, but upgrades the functionality with
modern materials.
The SeaQ conforms completely to the DIN and ISO
standards for water resistance, legibility, shock resistance and
resistance to saltwater corrosion, among many other criteria
— making it a reliable and safe timepiece for dives under most
conditions, and at depths of up to 200 meters. The jeweled
version replaces the required luminescent reference triangle on
the rotating bezel with a rotating ring of 47 brilliant-cut diamonds
and a single sapphire, which invalidates it for professional diving
— though it does qualify in every other category.
The dial is a striking deep galvanic blue with a sunray
finish and it provides a great contrast for the large, white
gold applied numerals, Super-LumiNova inlaid indices and
hands, and a matching date aperture at three o’clock. The
non-jeweled SeaQ has a bezel fitted with deep blue ceramic
inlay that continues the color scheme and is scratch resistant
for durability. The jeweled version also includes a rotating
bezel with the sapphire assuming the function of the triangle
reference mark.
Engraved with the trident maritime symbol, the Glashütte
Original double-G and 20 waves to represent the water
resistance to 20 bar (200 meters), the caseback is aligned and
secured via a threaded bottom ring. The SeaQ is equipped
with the automatic caliber 39-11, which boasts elaborate
finishing — a skeletonized rotor with heavy metal oscillation
weight, beveled edges, Glashütte stripe finish and swan-neck
fine adjustment. Glashütte Original has used swan-neck fine
adjustment since 1888, as an elegant and efficient instrument
to regulate the rate of a watch.
The non-jeweled model is available with three straps: black
rubber with a relief pattern, blue nylon mesh and a stainlesssteel
bracelet. The jeweled version is available with a satin
finished and high polished stainless-steel bracelet or a blue
synthetic strap.
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SPECIAL

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHMAKING: THE ALFRED HELWIG
TOURBILLON 1920
The year 2020 marked a century since Alfred Helwig and
his students at the German Watchmaking School Glashütte
redefined the tourbillon in 1920 with their innovative “flying”
tourbillon design. The Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 is
an homage to their dedication and success, and honors
the quintessential aspects of the original design. These
special tourbillons are produced on the very site the master
watchmaker worked.
The restrained 40mm dial of the Tourbillon has a
sophisticated palette of rose gold and silver. It is paired with
a brown Louisiana alligator strap with a rose gold pin buckle,
preserving the classic theme. The watch is well balanced and
minimalistic with a subseconds display at six o’clock bearing
the inscription “Tourbillon” — the only hint of the unique
complication hiding from view. The dial is solid gold and silverplated
by friction, giving it a subtle sheen. The rose-gold,
baton-shaped applique indices, and hour and minute hands
are in perfect harmony with black railroad tracks and the blue
sub-seconds hand.
In contrast to the understated minimalism of the dial,
the movement revealed beneath the rear sapphire crystal is
a breathtaking sight of decorations and finishes. There is a
sunburst decoration on the spring barrel cover, Glashütte
stripes on the three-quarter plate and the screws have been
thermally blued. A three-quarter plate is a large top plate that
covers roughly three quarters of the movement and is a hallmark
of Glashütte watchmaking.
The pièce de résistance is the beautiful filigree Flying
Tourbillon — the single anchor making the tourbillon appear to
defy gravity in its cage and float amongst the intricately finished
details. The caliber 54-01 is a manual winding movement with
an impressive power reserve of 100 hours. The Alfred Helwig
Tourbillon 1920 is a limited edition of 25 pieces.
Caliber 54-01 manual
winding movement
with Flying Tourbillon,
and power reserve of
100 hours
The Alfred Helwig
Tourbillon 1920
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SPECIAL

PanoLunarTourbillon
in platinum
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SPECIAL

Glashütte Original exhibits excellence in
horology that has cemented the brand as a powerhouse
for timepiece design and innovation.
ARTIST’S EXPRESSION: THE PANOLUNARTOURBILLON
Where the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 is discreet and
minimalistic, the PanoLunarTourbillon — a successor to the
previous release in 2013 — is a visual feast with elaborate
details, presenting the viewer with masterful complications in
an off-centered dial that is intricately engraved in silver with
blue and gold accents.
This watch is also inspired by Alfred Helwig’s work on the
flying tourbillon, highlighting the unique mechanism at the
six o’clock position, and giving a sense of “whirlwind” motion
to the dial.
The dial is engraved by hand at Glashütte Original’s dial
manufactory in Pforzheim. The engraving process includes
27 separate steps and takes an entire day to complete. There is
no specific pattern to follow, and each engraver inscribes the
intricate design freehand onto a solid gold blank using a steel
chisel known as burin.
The elaborate silver plate of the dial hosts a deliberate
placement of several characteristically offset complications.
The left side of the dial presents the polished silver hours and
minutes display with blue skeletonized hands and blue applique
indices. The gold and silver flying tourbillon is hosted at the
six o’clock position. On the right-hand side is a moon phase
indicator with a silver moon and stars on a blue night sky, and
below this is a large Panorama Date with silver numerals on
a blue date wheel. Glashütte Original neatly packages all the
elements in a 40mm platinum case.
The reverse side of the PanoLunarTourbillon reveals
that the attention to detail and allure do not stop at the dial.
The stainless steel plaque is engraved with the words “Flying
Tourbillon” and the letters are lined with gold. The rotor is 21K
gold, weighted, engraved and skeletonized to show more of the
exquisitely finished caliber 93-12 automatic movement. The
PanoLunarTourbillon is a limited release of 25 pieces.
Glashütte Original exhibits excellence in horology that has
cemented the brand as a powerhouse for timepiece design and
innovation. Their eye for design, whether elegantly minimal
or elaborately ornate, delivers intricate timepieces to suit
every aesthetic without compromising on quality or technical
prowess. For connoisseurs that appreciate artistry from the
watchmakers in Glashütte, by special request, they may request
exclusive bespoke creations. From dials and cases boasting
lavish precious stones, to engravings and strap variations, the
elements of personalization are limitless.
Flying Tourbillon
Signature
Panorama Date
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SPECIAL

Whole ’Nother Level
The ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie is Patek Philippe’s bold,
audacious statement to the watch world.
Words Wei Koh
Several years ago, I had the opportunity to
listen to Patek Philippe minute repeaters in
every precious metal they were made in. These
horological gems were arrayed in front of Thierry
Stern and he proceeded to pick up each watch, deftly
activating the slide integrated into the side of the
case and sending each into sonic ignition. It was a
transcendent moment for everyone present.
There is a reason that the horological faithful
universally laud Patek’s minute repeaters as the best
in the world, and this is all down to an extraordinary
combination of tone, clarity, volume and, for lack of a
better word, “voice.” While they may not necessarily
be the loudest repeaters in the world — nor have they
ever chased this comparatively pedestrian goal — the
music they produce is, without a doubt, the most
aurally stunning to experience and the watchmaking
equivalent of Sam Cooke, Van Morrison, Aretha
Franklin or Janis Joplin. No other repeater comes
remotely close to their sonic signature. I was forever
changed by this moment, my understanding of
repeating watches so immutably and indelibly forged
by it that I’ve decided I will never own a striking watch
until the day I can own a Patek Philippe repeater.
So when word broke that Patek would unveil its
new Grande Sonnerie upon this day of our Lord, 10
November 2020, my heart rate shot into palpitatious
overdrive (yes, I made up that term). Of course, the
first question that came to mind was, what would the
aesthetic execution of this watch be? This was, after
all, not Patek Philippe’s first Grande Sonnerie.
THE GRANDMASTER
That accolade belongs to the amusingly hip-hopsounding
Grandmaster Chime launched in 2014 to
celebrate Patek’s 175th anniversary. This panjandrum
of a timepiece, ref. 5175 to be exact, featured a second
time zone display, instantaneous perpetual calendar,
an alarm that sounded the full time in the form of
hours, quarters and minutes two minutes before the
selected hours and quarters, a striking date function
in decimal format, a minute repeater, and of course,
a grande and petite sonnerie on three hammers.
Incidentally the rationale for playing the time two
minutes before the preselected alarm was so that if
you set it to one o’clock, the watch would actually play
12 hours, three quarters and 13 minutes, instead of
playing just one strike on the lowest of its three gongs.
The ref. 5175 was made in a small series of seven
watches — six sold to very lucky collectors and one
kept at Patek’s museum. A single piece was made in
steel for the Only Watch auction.
72 PRIME TIME

PRIME TIME 73
Patek Philippe’s
ref. 6301P Grande
Sonnerie makes a
boldandaudacious
statement with its
platinum case and
black grand feu
enamel dial

(From top)
Patek’s ref.
5275P chiming
watch with jump
hours; The
Patek Philippe
Grandmaster
Chime Ref. 5175
with the unique
hand-engraved
case was the
star among the
commemorative
watches
presented on the
occasion of the
manufacture’s
175th anniversary
in 2014. The
reference
featured a
reversible case
decorated with
the manufacture’s
typical hobnail
pattern, and
showcases 20
complications,
including five
chiming modes,
two of which are
patented acoustic
world debuts
In 2016, the Grandmaster Chime became part of
Patek’s regular production as the ref. 6300, with more
discreet hand-engine-turned engraving on the case
middle than the elaborately hand-engraved ref. 5175.
Both the ref. 5175 and the ref. 6300 were massive, totemic
double-sided timepieces measuring 47mm and 47.7mm
in diameter, respectively — not precisely the type of
understated watch one could wear with any measure of
discretion taking a postprandial stroll around town.
In other words, what I really wanted to know was:
“Will the new ref. 6301P be discreet enough in styling to
wear every day?” And the answer to that is yes. Despite its
considerable size — at 44.8mm in diameter and 12mm in
height — the new ref. 6301P is a masterpiece of sublimely
refined stealth design.
AN ICONIC PATEK & MORE
“That was precisely Thierry Stern’s objective with this
watch: to create an expression of understated elegance,”
says Jasmina Steele, Patek Philippe’s public relations
director. Indeed, original plans for his design actually
omitted the indications for the power reserve of the
movement and of the sonnerie, which are found at nine
and three o’clock on the dial, respectively. “Of course
we understood why we wanted to do this, to create the
ultimate expression of restrained and pure Patek Philippe
design, but in the end, we convinced him these indications
were important enough to keep,” says Philip Barat, the
head of development at Patek who’s also affectionately
known as “Mr. Plexi” to those Patek devotees who have
had the pleasure of his technical discourses aided by large
plexiglass models of watch movements and parts.
(Below) In 2016, the Grandmaster Chime became part of Patek’s regular production as the ref. 6300, with
more discreet hand engine-turned engraving on the case-middle than the elaborately hand-engraved ref. 5175
74 PRIME TIME

Regarding the size of the watch, whose dial is
a full 2.8mm wider than François-Paul Journe’s
42mm grande sonnerie, Barat explains, “Actually,
keeping the watch as thin as possible was Thierry
Stern’s objective, and I think at 12mm, this is quite a
significant achievement for a watch with three gongs
and three hammers.”
The ref. 6301P took its inspiration from the ref.
5370 Split Seconds Chronograph — more specifically,
from the platinum-cased model with black grand feu
enamel dial and applied Breguet numerals that was
discontinued this year and replaced by an equally
stunning blue enamel dial model. This is what is so
great about the ref. 6301P: if you are to close your
eyes and come up with a dream list of Patek Philippe
design attributes for a grande sonnerie, you would
probably arrive at almost exactly the watch that they
have created. Platinum Calatrava-style case? Check.
Black grand feu enamel dial? Yes. White printed
chemin-de-fer-style minute track? You got it.
Sublime applied Breguet numerals, one of the most
revered Patek design codes of all time? If you insist,
sir. Luminous leaf-shaped hands? OK, just for you.
On top of that, Thierry Stern made a tremendous
effort to make this watch Patek’s ultimate masterwork
of understated elegance by first combining what are
normally two switches — one for selecting grande
or petite sonnerie mode, and the other for turning
the strike mode on and off — into one. Then, they
essentially hide this switch between the lugs at six
o’clock, causing the diamond normally found in
Patek’s platinum cases to relocate to 12 o’clock. And,
instead of a repeater slide, they created a pusher that
is integrated into the crown, meaning that unless you
looked really closely, or knew the exact visual cues, you
might easily mistake the ref. 6301P for an oversized
and extremely beautiful time-only Calatrava.
I can already hear the conversation in my mind
when a less informed collector looks at this watch
and remarks, “I didn’t know Patek made an oversized
ref. 5196 with a black dial.” To which, of course,
the knowing reply would be, “They don’t,” with a
wink as the watch’s grande sonnerie bursts into song
on cue, complete with a three-part melody for the
quarters. Cue the Snoop Dogg pimp-life meme.
Anyway, my point is, the ref. 6301P is everything
you could possibly want in terms of iconic Patek
(From top) The luminous
leaf-shaped hands of the
6301P; The pusher in the
crown at 3 o’clock triggers
the strikework for the
Patek Philippe Ref. 6301P
Grande Sonnerie
PRIME TIME 75

Philippe styling — it is that ravishing. There are
two additional indicators on the dial, one at nine
o’clock and one at three o’clock, which give you
the power reserve for the barrels of the movement
and sonnerie respectively. Finally, the magnificent
sub-seconds dial framed by a second white cheminde-fer
track — this time for the sub-seconds —
actually contains a secret: the movement’s jumping
seconds function where the seconds hand jumps
precisely on the second, rather than creeping
incrementally forwards. Again, unless you looked
closely, you would be hard-pressed to notice this.
This indication was, of course, the subject of some
attention as it is both thrilling and unusual to find a
jumping seconds indicator on a grande sonnerie.
Philip Barat explains, “I do not like to call this a
‘dead seconds’ mechanism. The dead seconds was
the predecessor to the chronograph for measuring
time and uses a different system involving an anchor
and escapement of its own. The jumping seconds, in
comparison, was first introduced in the ref. 5275P
launched for our 175th anniversary. This was a
tonneau-shaped watch with jump hours, a chiming
function on the hours and this method of displaying
the seconds. The caliber 32-650 HGS PS was derived
from the movement in the Grandmaster Chime. In
this movement, we do not have a way to create a direct
seconds hand. There is a seconds wheel, but it is
turning in the reverse direction. So we decided that if
we are going to create an indirect seconds, we should
do something more. We came up with a system where
the energy of the seconds wheel is stored for up to
eight oscillations before it pulls the jumping seconds
wheel forward. It is made out of silicon to keep it very
light, and so that the spring tension stays uniform
throughout its life.”
Before I get into the extraordinary movement and
the technical innovations and patents it represents,
let me pause to place the ref. 6301P in sociological
context. To me, it is precisely the type of ultra
complicated watch that the very best manufactures
should be making in the context of this year and in
the years ahead — a watch with incredible technical
achievement, but executed in a beautiful and elegantly
understated way. At a time when so many people
have been economically affected, it is just downright
76 PRIME TIME

(Clockwise from
top) The 2020
Patek Philippe
Ref. 6301P
Grande Sonnerie
boasts a jumping
subsidiary
seconds at 6
o’clock. It’s not
a direct driven
seconds hand,
the seconds
wheel in fact
turns in reverse
in the movement;
The diamond
normally found in
Patek’s platinum
cases is relocated
to 12 o’clock;
In the 6301P,
the sonnerie’s
switches are
combined into
a single switch
positioned
discreetly
between the lugs
at six o’clock
tasteless to rub everyone’s noses in by flaunting
wealth. Of course, no one is trying to tell you not to
enjoy yourself if you can afford to, but at the same
time, there is no need for you to join Dan Bilzerian,
Kim Kardashian and their vulgarian brigade in the
overt and tasteless celebrations of vapid, mindless and
profoundly wasteful opulence. Anyway, that’s just my
opinion. To me, the ref. 6301P militates against this
orange Lamborghini arriviste barbarism and shines a
path to the future of classic, understated, elegant high
complications for the rest of the industry.
To be fair, a grande sonnerie is already vested
purely within the rarefied realm of the horological
ultra elite — meaning, you have to be educated
enough to appreciate what it is from a technical
perspective and also affluent enough to afford its
correspondingly sky-high price tag. There are only
five brands in the world that are capable of making
a grande and petite sonnerie: Patek Philippe,
Audemars Piguet, Gérald Genta (now under Bvlgari),
François-Paul Journe and Jaeger-LeCoultre. The
first grande sonnerie wristwatch was produced by
independent watchmaking legend Philippe Dufour.
PRIME TIME 77

SO, WHAT EXACTLY IS A GRANDE SONNERIE?
To refresh your memory on striking watches,
here is a quick breakdown. A minute repeater is a
watch that plays the time on demand in the form of
music. The complication was created by English
watchmaker Daniel Quare, but perfected in the
form of wire gongs and hammers by none other
than the G.O.A.T of watchmaking, Abraham-
Louis Breguet. It was created so that noblemen
would not have to undergo the banality of lighting a
candle to check their pocket watches in the dark.
A minute repeater works as follows: the hours and
minutes have star cams set with steps for readings
on them. The minute repeater has a feeler system
that, when activated, reads these cams almost like
a visually impaired person reading Braille. It then
translates this into a certain number of strikes of its
miniature hammers on its wire gongs. Traditionally,
there are two gongs: one high and one low in tone.
Hours are represented by the low-pitched gong,
minutes up to 14 by the high-pitched gong, and
quarters by a combination of a high-low melody.
The minute repeater is considered, by far, to be the
most challenging complication to fine-tune and
perfect. Minute repeaters are judged by the quality
of their “voice” — the clarity, brightness, beauty
and volume of their song. Accordingly, there are
all sorts of arcane techniques relating to repeaters,
such as hardening gongs in horse urine, etc.
A carillon minute repeater is a watch with more
than two gongs. Often, this is in order to play the
melody of Big Ben for the quarters, and a watch with
that capability is called a Westminster repeater.
OK, so if a minute repeater were the equivalent
to wearing a black belt in terms of horological
badassitude, then the ability to make a grande
sonnerie would be analogous to the top Tiger
Style master monk at Shaolin Temple in terms of
martial arts prowess. A grande sonnerie always has
a minute repeater function and, moreover, plays
the time in passing, which a repeater cannot do.
So, it plays the hours on the hours, and the hours
and quarters on the quarters in passing. Grande
sonneries also have a “petite” mode, which means
the watch plays the hours on the hours, and only
the quarters on the quarters. As I’ve mentioned,
there have only been six watchmaking firms or
watchmakers who have achieved this lofty goal.
The second person to achieve a grande sonnerie (a
carillon with three gongs and three hammers) was the
late Pierre-Michel Golay, who was at Gérald Genta
at the time and was able to modify an ébauche from
an old Vallée de Joux pocket watch. As a result, Genta
— and now Bulgari — has the ability to make this
complication, which they combine with an automatic
tourbillon no less.
Audemars Piguet has the capacity to make a
grande sonnerie carillon, thanks to their ownership of
Renaud & Papi, one of horology’s most storied highcomplications
specialists. Then there is François-
Paul Journe, whose grande sonnerie innovatively uses
two banana-shaped gongs; and Jaeger-LeCoultre
with its Hybris Mechanica created by David Candaux
with three trebuchet, or “catapult,” hammers and
three gongs.
Finally, there is Patek Philippe, who introduced
their Grandmaster Chime in 2014, thus ascending to
the Valhalla of high-complication demigods. But what
distinguishes Patek from the other brands is that they
make what are universally acknowledged to be the best
repeating watches in the world. So, when they took the
leap to include a grande sonnerie in their repertoire,
you could be certain that it was the best-sounding one
in the history of modern watchmaking.
Patek Philippe’s recently launched 5303R, powered by the Caliber R TO 27 PS,
is a minute repeater with classic gongs, i.e. it has two gongs and two hammers:
one high and one low in tone. Hours are represented by the low-pitched gong,
quarters by a combination of a high-low melody and minutes — up to 14 — by
the high-pitched gong
THE WHO’S WHO OF GRANDE SONNERIES
Philippe Dufour was the first to introduce his
masterpiece back in 1992, and has made a total of
four grande sonnerie watches with enamel dials and
five with transparent sapphire dials; it is rumored that
he still occasionally cranks one of these out. What
many people don’t know is that Dufour’s project was
financed by Henry Tay of Singapore’s The Hour Glass.
78 PRIME TIME

THE BEST IN THE GAME
While the Grandmaster Chime’s many complications
are packaged in an ornate case, the ref. 6301P’s
absolute zen-like focus on being the best grande
sonnerie in the game, is reflected in its pure, sober
and wonderfully elegant design. However,
its apparent simplicity is an act of cunning subterfuge,
as the watch is actually a vessel for extraordinary
innovation and holds three patents.
The first relates to the total isolation of the
sonnerie mechanism in the silence mode, helping to
extend the watch’s power reserve considerably. The
second relates to the selection switch for the modes.
As I’ve mentioned, normally, there are two switches
in a grande sonnerie — one for grande or petite mode,
and one that is essentially an on/off switch. Patek
managed to combine both into a single slide switch,
hidden from prying eyes at six o’clock. Push it all the
way to left, and you are in petite-sonnerie mode; slide
it to center and you are in grande-sonnerie mode;
slide it to the right and you’ve turned the strike off.
You can still activate the minute repeater, of course,
but the watch won’t play the time in passing.
Lastly, the third patent relates to an all-new
jumping seconds mechanism. The seconde morte
complication preceded the chronograph as the most
accurate way to measure time, and is one of the
coolest complications around. Normally it functions
by having a second escapement with a pallet and
escape wheel that engages the seconds hand, but
this system robs the watch of energy. As described
earlier, Patek’s innovation does away with levers and
springs, and functions only using wheels and a release
lever, which consumes far less power and is easier to
regulate and control.
(Clockwise from right) Bvlgari’s Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon that was launched
at this year’s LVMH Watch Week; Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Hybris Mechanica à Grande
Sonnerie; A technical drawing of Dufour’s Grande Sonnerie minute repeater
wristwatch, courtesy of Philippe Dufour (Image: acollectedman.com)
PRIME TIME 79

80 PRIME TIME
The2020Patek
Philippe ref. 6301P
Grande Sonnerie is
enabled by the new
caliber GS 36-750
PS IRM, which
features a pair of
twin stacked barrels,
one dedicated to the
movement (72-hour
power reserve) and
the second dedicated
to the strikework
(24-hour power
reserve); (Below)
The skeletonized
Calatrava Cross
positioned over the
fusee of the watch in
its full glory

Flip the ref. 6301P over and revel in the new caliber GS 36-750 PS
IRM, with a movement diameter of 37mm and a height of 7.5mm. What I
love about Patek, is that when it sets about designing a movement, it does
so with function as well as architectural beauty as its focus. A masterpiece
of balance and harmony, it features two sets of two stacked barrels (four
in total) in series, one for the going train and one for the sonnerie’s
strike mechanism. If you look at the bridge on the left of the movement,
the ruby on the top retains the barrels for the striking train and the ruby
at the bottom for the movement. Turn the crown clockwise to wind the
movement and anticlockwise to wind the barrel for the sonnerie. The
power reserve provided by the sonnerie barrels guarantees that you can
have the ref. 6301 on grande-sonnerie mode for a full 24 hours without
having to rewind it.
Just to give you some perspective, that’s a full 1,056 strikes the watch
will perform in this 24-hour period. If that sounds like a lot, that is
because this new grande sonnerie is a carillon with three hammers and
three gongs. Each quarter is played as a high-low-medium melody.
“There was a lot of discussion about the number
of hammers and gongs for this watch,” says Philip
Barat. “Essentially, it is the movement of the
Grandmaster Chime without the additional alarm,
date striking or calendar functions. As such, we were
able to really focus on the sound. We made prototypes
with four hammers and even five hammers. But as you
increase the number of hammers, the strikes become
less powerful, and eventually, Thierry Stern decided
on three hammers and three gongs to get the right
balance of power and beauty in the sound. While the
Grandmaster Chime played alternating melodies for
each quarter, here, it plays the same melody, which is
always the combination of high-low-medium gongs
in that order.”
Jasmina Steele says, “Collectors know that
Thierry is involved in every aspect of the design, but
he also oversees the movement both in terms of its
aesthetics and its technical details. One nice detail
here is the skeletonized Calatrava Cross positioned
over the fusée of the watch. For the first time, you
can see the flying regulator which Patek first created
in the caliber 89 without anything covering it.”
Beyond all its technical street cred, you can also
see Patek’s unrivaled high level of finish lavishly and
lovingly applied to the entirety of the movement —
particularly evident in the sharp internal angles on
the bridges, which can only be performed by the most
skilful hands. The watch also comes complete with
Patek’s signature Gyromax free-sprung balance and
its Silinvar silicon hairspring; the latter enables the
watch to be impervious to magnetism. (As an aside,
Silinvar is silicon with a deposit of silicon dioxide
on it to compensate for the material’s reaction to
thermal variation.) This balance is found on a full
traversing balance bridge for added stability.
Finally I love that Patek made the case in
platinum because this is the hardest material to
craft a great-sounding striking watch in. Because
of platinum’s density, it is notorious for being a
poor amplifier of sound. Journe overcame this
by making his 700,000-euro 42mm sonnerie
in steel, but to me, that has always seemed to be
a bit of a cop-out. Clearly, this is not for Patek.
Instead, they decided to demonstrate that not
only could they make the world’s best-sounding
grande sonnerie, they could also design it to be a
masterpiece of stealth elegance and craft the case
from the most challenging material possible — and
still have it set a benchmark in terms of tonal quality
that exceeds all others. It’s a whole ’nother level, if
you forgive my use of the colloquial, and I just love
the sheer audaciousness of this statement from
Patek Philippe to the rest of the watch world.
The ref. 6301P is priced at CHF 1,115,000 and
will only be allocated to the very lucky few approved
by Thierry Stern.
PRIME TIME 81

BREAKING
RECORDS
Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo
GMT Chronograph has
set the gold standard
forthinchronograph
travel watches, and their
newest variation dials up
the aesthetics.
Words Bhanu Chopra

Thenewvariationof
the Octo Finissimo
GMT Chronograph
boasts a thickness
of just 6.9mm
From the moment Bvlgari revealed their first Octo Finissimo
in 2014, it was clear this was a timepiece that would shift the
paradigm for ultra thin watch design. Achieving a thin profile in
a chronograph is a remarkable achievement in itself, requiring clever
engineering and careful real estate management. Caliber 1180 is merely
3.95mm in thickness, and it broke a 32-year record for the thinnest
mechanical chronograph held by Frédéric Piguet by an astonishing
1.6mm. The Octo Finissimo did not just raise the bar, it pushed it into
the stratosphere.
THE BRAIN AND THE HEART
The awards rolled in as each iteration of the Octo Finissimo swept
through the industry. Six records were broken in six years as Bvlgari
applied their breakthrough design to each new category. However,
it takes more than technological innovation to capture the hearts of
collectors, and this is where Bvlgari really shines.
Bvlgari’s Watches Art Director, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani,
wanted to make a watch model that paid tribute to the distinctive
architectural wonders found throughout their home city of Rome. The
Octo design mimics the octagonal plans of historical treasures like the
Basilica of San Vitale and the dome above the tomb of St. Peter, while
also incorporating advanced, futuristic materials and cutting-edge
technology. The eight-sided case of angles and circles challenges the
constraints of traditional watch shapes. Watch lovers admired the
mechanicals, of course, but they were completely taken with the unique
fusion of the ancient architectural inspiration and the modern execution.
2014 World’s Thinnest Tourbillon
2016 World’s Thinnest Minute Repeater
2017 World’s Thinnest Automatic Watch
2018 World’s Thinnest Automatic Tourbillon
2019 World’s Thinnest Automatic Chronograph
2020 World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Chronograph
LIFE AMONGST THE STARS
Like many Bvlgari creations, the Octo Finissimo design
is forward-looking while drawing upon their long
experience in creating desirable and fashion-forward
jewelry and timepieces. The renowned Serpenti model
graced the wrists of superstars like Elizabeth Taylor,
Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly. More recently, the
Octo has gained celebrity appeal among the royalty of
Hollywood. Idris Elba, Jeremy Renner, Adrien Brody
and Dave Franco are among the many recent A-listers
spotted wearing Bvlgari Octo watches.
BVLGARI SPECIAL

THE NEXT MARVEL
Bvlgari presents a new variation of the Octo Finissimo
Chronograph GMT – a black opaline dial on a stylish
rubber strap. The Octo has a distinctive eight-sided
case, with its stacked angles and faceted curves creating
an eight-sided design in a sandblasted titanium. With
a thickness of only 6.9mm, the incredibly low profile is
offset by the 42mm diameter for a substantial presence on
the wrist, but wears remarkably light for all-day comfort.
The Octo Chronograph GMT has a titanium
double-knurled crown set with ceramic that is
thoughtfully worked into the case to introduce a subtle
asymmetry. The unique long, raised grooves running
along the circumference of the crown give it a secure
grip when adjusting. It’s a small detail, but adds an
interesting visual touch as well as a functional advantage
when setting the watch. The chronograph pushers are
integrated seamlessly into the flow of the case design,
acting visually and functionally as a traditional crown
guard. They are wide and flat for quick stop-start
action, but do not draw attention from the silhouette. The lugs are
seamlessly aligned with the bezel design, giving an almost invisible
transition from case to strap. Even though Octo does not have an
integrated strap, it appears like one with the clever design.
The transparent caseback gives a view of the astoundingly slim
3.30mm BVL 318 caliber automatic movement. For reference, a
Euro coin is 2.33mm thick. The ultra thin design necessitates a larger
diameter for the complex mechanicals, which in turn fill the case
almost from edge to edge and creates an impressive and expansive
view of the inner workings.
A subtle asymmetry ,
thanks to the doubleknurled
crown that is
worked into the case

Caliber BVL 318
with column wheel
chronograph and
peripheral rotor
One of the engineering techniques Bvlgari uses
to achieve their ultra thin goals while maintaining the
automatic-winding feature, is the use of a peripheral
rotor — a concept originally patented by Paul Gostel
in 1955. The rotor winds the mainspring by spinning
around the periphery of the movement, minimizing
height, but adding to the total diameter. One major
advantage of a peripheral rotor is that it gives an
unobstructed view of the delightful movement.
The column wheel chronograph is another notable
feature of the movement and is clearly visible through
the rear sapphire caseback. Unlike a cam-actuated
chronograph, the column wheel delivers a smoother
actuation from the pushers, but requires handfinishing
by an expert to ensure it meets tolerance.
This adds expense and time to the final movement, but
also increases the ultimate value and longevity of the
timepiece, as well as the accuracy and precision of the
timekeeping. Bvlgari manages to achieve a remarkable
55-hour power reserve for the ultra thin chronograph
movement with GMT complication.
The new Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT
Titanium model has a black opaline dial under the
sapphire crystal rather than the monochromatic
sandblasted titanium of previous models. The contrast
brings a sense of drama and strong aesthetic to an
otherwise muted sports watch. The home-time dial is
displayed at three o’clock, and has a 24-hour format to
give day and night indication for quick orientation while
traveling. A third pusher at the nine o’clock position
allows for quick set of the local time in one-hour forward increments.
The three subdials feature a subtle gray-on-black color scheme
that helps maintain legibility for reading the main travel time with a
quick glance. The chronograph 30-minute counter is at six o’clock
and a running seconds counter is at nine o’clock. There is a single,
oversized numeral “12” with the rest of the indices in a long, elegant
baton shape. The dial is circled in a fine fringe of minute and seconds
markers following the edges of the octagon shape.
The three hands — simple, faceted and skeletonized — stand
sharp against the deep black color of the dial. The single clear space
beneath the 12 is the perfect spot to display the Bvlgari logo. The Octo
Chronograph GMT layout clearly presents a lot of information from
its many complications, and the design remains minimalistic at heart
and presents the dial and subdials with an elegant brevity.
The accompanying black rubber strap mirrors the black opaline
of the dial. The rubber has a deep texture that contrasts well with the
smooth surfaces of the case and dial; however, the titanium bracelet
remains by far the best option.
The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium, like the Octo
models that came before it, truly embodies the Estetica della Meccanica
(aesthetic of mechanics) design philosophy that lies at the heart of all
of Bvlgari’s work. Horophiles acknowledge the genius at work in the
Italian maison, and by designating Octo Finissimo as a future classic,
they have validated Bvlgari’s accomplishments.
BVLGARI SPECIAL

You never forget the first time you see a
Roger Dubuis. The whirling, sculptural
watches of the Geneva-based manufacture
display a creative genius tinged with a
fantastic madness that stays in the mind.
HYPER

HOROLOGY
FOR THE
HYPER LIFE
Roger Dubuis is a brand at the forefront of daring horological
design. But more than that, they represent some of the most
capable creators in the game. The Maison’s integrated
capabilities allows the manufacture to pursue a vision of watchmaking
that pushes the boundaries of what is possible. From the research
and development and construction of the movements to the exquisite
finishing touches — every step and element is pushed to the limits.
The visionary engineers and incredible watchmakers of Roger Dubuis
work closely together and share a daring mindset, a radical know-how
of complex visual tricks that defines the essence of the brand. This
combination of boldness and extravagance has been key to Roger
Dubuis since the very beginning.
Roger Dubuis was co-founded by the eponymous pioneering
watchmaker. Since its earliest days, the Maison has upheld the highest
standards of traditional Genevan watchmaking, paired with a flair that
is entirely contemporary. The early watches of Roger Dubuis were
exceptionally made but possessed a bold personality, a sense of fun
that, even then, planted the seeds for the thoroughly modern Maison
that Roger Dubuis would grow into.
That modernity was cemented — literally — when Roger Dubuis
built a large, state-of-the-art manufacture in Geneva. It is an open
temple to modern watchmaking where skilled artisans painstakingly
assemble their highly complicated timepieces — from the hairsprings
that form the beating heart of each and every Roger Dubuis caliber
through to the unconventional and ingeniously designed cases, made
from high tech materials or set with flawless stones. Most of all, Roger
Dubuis is a brand that doesn’t play it safe. They push the boundaries of
what is possible, and do so with a spirit of maverick impertinence. It is
a maison where a complete understanding of obsessive and visionary
watchmaking resides.
ROGER DUBUIS SPECIAL

Excalibur Skeleton
Double Flying
Tourbillon
Roger Dubuis is possessed of a rare spirit, a
commitment to the avant garde and to the extreme. Not
a brand that settles for the mundane or the merely ‘good
enough’, they push themselves, both creatively and
when it comes to construction. This visionary approach
to watch design has resulted in some truly exceptional
watches and technologies. In 2003 the brand achieved
what few Swiss brands can claim — an in-house sprung
balance. A few years later in 2005, they upped the
ante, releasing not one but two exclusive calibers —
the double flying tourbillon skeleton (RD01SQ) and
RD08, a minute repeater tourbillon. These calibers
look absolutely stunning, and prove that Roger Dubuis
are the masters of the complicated, poised to shatter
conventions and norms.
It takes a confident personality to be able to handle
this degree of horological exceptionalism.
With their uncompromising style and singular
aesthetics, these timepieces aren’t meant for those who
follow the pack. Roger Dubuis is for creative visionaries,
mavericks who dance to the beat of their own drum and
seek out true pleasure wherever it can be found.
The combination of profound skill, vertical capacity
and a futuristic vision of watchmaking allows Roger
Dubuis to push the very boundaries of what is possible
— to reach a flow-like state where borders cease to
matter and the watch enters a world of excess. It’s a
spirit of the exceptional, where the vehicle of choice
for this insatiable attitude is the Excalibur. This
fantastical, outstanding design burst into the world in
2005, and has continued to innovate and disrupt ever
since. Roger Dubuis is watchmaking larger than life;
this is Hyper Horology.
RD108SQ
caliber
DOUBLING DOWN ON THE TOURBILLON
If there’s one watch that epitomises both Roger Dubuis’
mastery of complicated, technical watchmaking, it’s the
Excalibur Double Flying Tourbillon. With its striking,
aggressive lines and breathtaking mechanical virtuosity,
this watch is a signature piece for Roger Dubuis. For
this latest interpretation, the goal was to optimize
each of its components so as to offer the members of
a hedonistic tribe a watch entirely aligned with their
desires and their lifestyle. Think of it as an ideal blend of
design, performance and comfort.
Roger Dubuis do not allow themselves to be
limited by watch design — they could take the easy
way out and do what is accepted, but they thrive on
the challenge of technical adversity, and the results
speak for themselves. This concept now appears in the
form of the RD108SQ caliber, with a fresh aesthetic
and a range of technical enhancements that deliver an
uncompromising blend of hard-hitting visual impact
and stunning technical performance.
The Excalibur Double Flying Tourbillon is a brand
icon, a design code that is continually being rewritten.
Roger Dubuis is showing off the expression and the
excess of the limits of horological creativity with a watch
that delights in surprising the wearer, offering multiple
perspectives, layers and ingenious visual tricks to create
a piece that is as unexpected as it is incredible.
It speaks to the Maison’s unique outlook on
watchmaking in several important ways. It’s a watch
that hides nothing. Everything is on show. From the
endlessly whirling tourbillons to the three-dimensional
architecture which creates a dynamic, voluminous
aesthetic and a great sense of depth. From the bridges
to the balance, the inner beauty of this watch is clearly
on display, and the wearer can enjoy it all. The spirit
of Hyper Horology is front and center on the caliber.
The new style star sits above the caliber, between the
movement plate and under the flange. This adds even
more depth and character into the caliber, even crossing
over other movement bridges for a multi-levelled,
dynamic look. Thanks to the fine angles and exceptional
polishes, it shines even brighter than before.
ROGER DUBUIS SPECIAL

©STEPHANECOUCHOUD
Excalibur Skeleton
Double Flying Tourbillon
Celtic cross-shaped
tourbillon

Excalibur Skeleton Double
Flying Tourbillon
©STEPHANECOUCHOUD
ROGER DUBUIS SPECIAL

This openness leads to another crucial aspect of the
watch’s design. Central to the enduring appeal of this
design is the fact that it’s driven by supreme technical
expertise. Roger Dubuis is an accomplished, integrated
manufacture, capable of mastering the most complex
processes and materials. When your watch caliber
looks this good, why not show it off? It’s pride in their
technical expertise that drives Roger Dubuis to open,
skeleton designs.
To best take in this reworked, playfully interpreted
version of the iconic piece is to look to the watch profile.
The shape of the case has been altered, with longer,
smoother and more sophisticated lines at play, which
still retain the excessive essence of Roger Dubuis.
The lugs are more aggressively shaped, as is the crown
guard. The iconic notches on the bezel and crown are
still there, deeper and more sculptural than ever before,
thanks to the refined design with a cut tip.
The Excalibur Double Flying Tourbillon
improvements go beyond the modern finishes and
strong aesthetics of straight lines. You can see it clearly
on the levitating star, the brand’s iconic symbol which
has now broken free from the physical constraints of
the barrel, which has also allowed the brand to increase
power reserve to 72 hours. In addition, anti-magnetic
properties have been improved. The overall tourbillon
weight has been reduced, thanks to the use of two
non-magnetic materials. The lower section is in super
light titanium, and the upper tourbillon cage is in cobalt
chrome. In addition to keeping the weight down, these
materials improve the watch’s mechanical properties
and enable some truly stunning mirror polishing. And
wearers are sure to appreciate the improved strap
sizing, allowing members of this particular Roger
Dubuis tribe exceptional comfort.
DAZZLING, DARING DESIGN
The iconic and central collection in Roger Dubuis’
house is Excalibur. A powerful vision of strength, with
stark design and equally exceptional engineering, it is
the perfect encapsulation of the brand.
As a watch, Excalibur is instantly recognizable,
but in the long history of this disruptive design, there
hasn’t been a model as outstanding as the Excalibur
Superbia. This watch is stunning in its extravagance.
Hyper horology come to life. There’s a reason we
named it Revolution’s Jewellery Watch of the Year.
The Excalibur Superbia is over the top, and proudly so.
The palladium-enriched white gold case is merely the
backdrop here, with the 600 stones — both sapphires
Excalibur Skeleton
Double Flying
Tourbillon
ROGER DUBUIS
EXCALIBUR DOUBLE FLYING TOURBILLON
REFERENCE RDDBEX0920
MOVEMENT RD108SQ, double flying tourbillon. Skeleton, with
hours, minutes and double flying tourbillons at 5 and 7 o’clock. 319
components, 32 jewels, thickness of 7mm. Frequency 2 x 3 Hz, with 72
hours of power reserve. Poinçon de Genève certified
CASE Pink gold, 45mm diameter, 13mm height. Sapphire crystals on
front and back, water resistant to 100m
STRAP Easily interchangeable 3D calf-leather strap with triple folding
buckle in pink gold and titanium
AVAILABILITY Limited to eight pieces

Roger Dubuis
Excalibur Superbia
Excalibur Skeleton Double
Flying Tourbillon
and white diamonds — being the starring attraction.
The stones haven’t just been set in a case of carats for
carat’s sake; they are an integral part of the challenging
design itself. The shapes are reminiscent of the spatial
forms favored by interior design artist Kaz Shirane.
Every stone set on the case, crown, bezel and flange is
a complicated tetrahedron, mounted using an invisible
setting on a curved surface. Setting a stone on a nonstraight
surface is challenging, so it should come as no
surprise that the brand chose to take the harder path;
Roger Dubuis is obsessed by the challenge.
Let’s put that artistic challenge into perspective: It
takes a gem setter around 30 minutes to create a single
grove in a gemstone. If you do the maths, it adds up to
900 hours to create the grooves on each side of the 600
stones. Then, there are the additional 420 hours it takes
to set the case and bezel.
Of course, that’s just the physical hours that go into
the stones. There’s still the phenomenal amount of work
involved in creating the 45mm white gold case and the
incredibly complicated Caliber 108SQ. This caliber
is open-worked and equipped with Roger Dubuis’
iconic double flying tourbillon, star-shaped bridge.
Like most of the Maison’s watches, it is certified with
the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. All that detail still
shines out, even through the artful, almost architectural
stone-setting on the movement itself.
The Excalibur Superbia, with its technical mastery
and bold, unapologetic vision of luxury, excess and
crazy design, is as exclusive as it is exceptional. This
watch is even more prestigious than other Roger
Dubuis timepieces, as it is a unique piece, made for
unique people.
Roger Dubuis
Excalibur Superbia
ROGER DUBUIS SPECIAL

NOW OR NEVER
Suppose the idea of customized Roger Dubuis design
is something that excites you. In that case, you’re in
luck, because the brand, always reinventing the game,
has launched the Roger Dubuis Drop Collection which
challenges the very notion of a watch collection. Part
of the ‘Q Lab’, which is dedicated to customization,
the Drop Collection offers a unique array of dazzling,
surprising takes on skeleton models, offered for a
strictly limited time. But don’t delay — it’s now or
never. These models are strictly limited. The “Flash”
might only be for 24 hours, or the design might be
available for a maximum of one month. In addition to
the wild creativity on display in the Drop Collection,
there’s the advantage of express delivery where these
exclusive bespoke pieces will be delivered within two to
four months. Excess, express.
Excalibur
Aventador S
FINDING FRIENDS IN THE FAST LANE
Roger Dubuis do not walk their path alone. They
are members of an exclusive tribe of visionaries and
hedonists who live life to the next level. In this quest,
the Maison has found some exceptional partners who
share a curious mindset and are dedicated to pushing
boundaries. Some of those boundaries are in the
automotive space. First Pirelli, and then Lamborghini
Squadra Corse. Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini
Squadra Corse share a high powered passion, the
rush of mechanical performance and the drive for
ultimate freedom that is found in racing. It isn’t just
the adrenaline-filled thrill of speed that attracts Roger
Dubuis. The Maison is also curious, and driven to
explore unchartered territories, using this inspirational
energy to fuel new creations. The first watch that Roger
Dubuis has developed with Lamborghini’s racing team
is the Excalibur Aventador S.
This startling watch was the first horological
expression of the high-speed adrenaline partnership
between the two powerhouses. Taking inspiration from
the famed marque in materials and design, from the
inclined sprung balances, strut bars and automotiveinfluenced
power reserve display to Alcantara strap,
there is no mistaking the hedonistic, thrill-seeking
identity of the Excalibur Aventador S.
This version, limited to eight pieces, and only
available online is even more impertinent. The RD103SQ
engine is housed in a technical Ceramic Composite
Fiber (CCF) and titanium case, in pristine white. It’s an
aggressive combination of the uncompromising world of
Lamborghini Squadra Corse and the excessive world of
hyper horology. A perfect match for Roger Dubuis then.
Rather than being a blank canvas, this white execution of
the Excalibur Aventador S stands out even more.
If you have never followed the pack and live a life of
the exceptional, relishing pleasures and experiences few
can savor, welcome to the world of Roger Dubuis. In
short, no rules, your game.
ROGER DUBUIS SPECIAL

A L L
A B O U T
C H R O N O G R A P H S

Historic calibers from the 1940s to 1980s that powered some
of the greatest chronographs in watchmaking.
Words Cheryl Chia
1938
1942
1942
1969
The birth of the
Valjoux 72 which
powered everything
from the Glycine
Airman SST to the
Rolex Cosmograph
The birth of
the Lemania
2310 or CH 27
which formed
the base of the
“Moonwatch”
caliber, the
Omega 321
The introduction
of the Venus 175,
which was used
most extensively
by Breitling
Seiko introduced
the 6139
Speed-Timer, the
first automatic
chronograph
with a vertical
coupling system
A consortium made
up of Dubois-
Dépraz, Büren,
Breitling and Heuer
introduced the
Chronomatic caliber
11, a horizontally
coupled, modular
chronograph with a
micro-rotor
Zenith
introduced the
El Primero,
an automatic
chronograph
with a high
frequency
of 5Hz
The golden age of handwound,
column wheel
chronographs dominated
by three movement
manufacturers — Valjoux,
Lemania and Venus
The year of
the automatic
chronograph
96 FEATURE

In the 21st century, “manufacture” movements are
fetishized as a symbol of exclusivity and prestige,
driving many watch companies to invest in proprietary
movement production. There is thus an abundance of
in-house movements from which to cherry-pick today.
However, chronographs, in particular, remain tough to
perfect and costly to produce. This is amplified in the field
of independent watchmaking where chronographs are few
and far between, despite the sector’s accomplishments in
pushing the boundaries of just about every other aspect of
watchmaking. Add to the criteria of in-house production
a classical design with hand-winding, column wheel and
horizontal clutch, and the options dwindle to a handful as
price points skyrocket.
1970
1972
1972
1974
1974
1988
Seiko introduced
the cal. 7017, a
slim automatic
chronograph with a
flyback function
Citizen introduced
the 8100A and
8110A, an advanced
class of ultra thin
flyback chronographs
that ran at a higher
frequency of 4Hz
Lemania introduced
the cal. 1340, a
cam-switched
automatic
chronograph that
would be adopted
by Omega as the
1040/1041
Lemania
introduced the
cost-efficient yet
highly robust, camswitched
5100 with
a vertical clutch
Valjoux
introduced the
7750, a legendary
performer with
a switching
cam and an
oscillating pinion
Frédéric Piguet
introduced the
1185, an ultra
thin automatic
movement with
upscale features
The second wave
of automatic
chronographs
In the age of the
Quartz Crisis
FEATURE 97

THE EARLY CHRONOGRAPH
WRISTWATCHES
he hand-wound chronograph movements
of yore remain valued and admired for
their robust engineering, practicality and
beauty. And none more so than the movements
of the early to mid-20th century.
In the decades following the Second World War,
classic column wheel chronographs enjoyed a golden
age. In fact, from this period came the watches that
are now causing more than the average furor at
auction. Up until the Quartz Crisis, it was a norm for
brands to utilize the best movements available, with
only a few outliers relying on their own production.
Many brands ranging from mid- to high-end,
including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Heuer and Breitling,
relied on the column wheel chronograph movements
produced by four designated chronograph specialists
— Valjoux, Lemania, Venus and Landeron. It’s worth
mentioning, though, that as early as 1940, Landeron
had begun producing cam-switched chronographs.
Lemania CH 27
VALJOUX 23/72 FAMILY, 1938–1974
The year 1938 saw the birth of the Valjoux 72, one
of the most vaunted chronograph calibers of all
time that powered just about everything, from the
Glycine Airman SST to the Rolex Cosmograph
Daytona, up until its discontinuation in 1974.
The Valjoux 72 was an evolution of the 14-ligne
Valjoux 22, which was originally built for pocket
watches, as well as the smaller 12-ligne Valjoux 23.
It is a classical manual winding chronograph,
which at 13 lignes sat in between the preceding
two calibers in terms of size. Like them, it
was equipped with a horizontal clutch and
a column wheel — an expensive to produce
system that would eventually fall victim to
cost-cutting measures across the board. Most
crucially, the Valjoux 72 saw the introduction
of a 12-hour counter at six o’clock that
established what would become the ultimate
layout of the chronograph complication.
Other specs included a frequency of 2.5Hz,
which was pretty much the standard beat rate
prior to the 1960s, yielding an accuracy of
1/5th of a second. These movements would be
customized to the specifications of different
The Valjoux 72B in a Rolex ref. 6240 (Image: Rolex Passion Market)
98 FEATURE

ands with minor structural modifications and
different levels of finishing.
The most notable variant was no doubt the
Rolex cal. 72B, or Valjoux 722, found in the
Daytona, which replaced the Valjoux 72A found
in the ref. 6234. Introduced in 1966, the cal. 72B
incorporated a Breguet overcoil and a free-sprung,
variable inertia balance wheel. Subsequently in
the late 1960s, the updated 722-1 incorporated
a new conveyor spring for the hour wheel to
ensure smoother engagement. Many of these
movements also featured a metal guard to protect
the hairspring from sliding over the stud holder.
A rare stainless steel
Rolex “Jean-Claude
Killy” manual wind triple
calendar chronograph
watch
The Valjoux 727
Rolex Daytona
ref. 6262 fitted
with the upgraded
Valjoux caliber
727
And finally in 1969 came the cal. 727,
which saw an increased beat rate from
2.5Hz to 3Hz, a modification that was by
no means trivial, involving a replacement
of approximately 15 components in all.
Beyond these structural modifications,
the Valjoux 72 also accommodated
calendar complications, presumably
thanks to a high-torque mainspring. It
acquired a full calendar in 1946 in the 72C
used by Doxa, Zodiac, Gallet, Girard-
Perregaux among others, culminating in
the legendary Rolex “Jean-Claude Killy”
triple calendar chronograph.
At its core, the Valjoux 72 and its
equivalents represented an age of twodimensional
chronographs designed
with sturdy, flat levers and springs with
clutches that operate on a single plane.
In contrast to modern chronographs
with bridges and levers that are narrow,
high and complex, the entire mechanism
in the Valjoux 72 is clear and visible at a
glance, making it easily adjustable and
serviceable, though parts are no doubt
scarce today.
FEATURE 99

LEMANIA 2310/CH 27, 1942–1968
Often pitted against the Valjoux 72 is
the Lemania 2310 or CH 27 developed
in 1942 as the “27 CHRO C12.” The
movement shares the same basic
engineering as the Omega cal. 321 used
in the Speedmaster that went to the
Moon, the cal. CH 27-70 Q in the Patek
Philippe ref. 3970 and the later ref. 5070.
The 27 CHRO C12 was a 27mm
(12-ligne) column wheel controlled
chronograph with a 12-hour counter.
The famed cal. 321 differed from the
original 27 CHRO C12 movement
primarily in terms of the jumper spring
for the minutes. The latter movement
features a robust, single-piece bladetype
spring while the cal. 321 was
modified to have a complex wire spring
and click — a feature that is interestingly
absent in the Patek CH 27-70 Q as well
as the Vacheron Constantin cal. 1142
found in the Cornes de Vache today. Both
of these watches adopted the simpler,
single-piece jumper, which perhaps
represents a more robust and reliable
solution.
And, like the Valjoux 72, the CH 27
had 17 jewels and a frequency of 2.5Hz.
The modifications and improvements
between derivatives of the CH 27 are
endlessly fascinating, with the most
impressive version being the Patek
CH 27-70 Q. Apart from its obviously
superior finishing, it features a fully
supported chronograph clutch that
pivots over the fourth wheel. It is also
equipped with the technically superior
Gyromax balance wheel as well as a more
elaborate kidney-shaped stud holder
instead of the simple triangle pinned with
a screw on the side.
Like Valjoux, Lemania eventually
began creating movements that were
cheaper to manufacture and massproduce.
The 2310 was eventually
replaced by the cam-switching Lemania
1872 in 1968.
The 27 CHRO C12
The Omega cal.
321 with a wire
spring and click
for the minutes
Patek Philippe CH 27-70 Q
100 FEATURE

VENUS 175/178 FAMILY, 1940S–1960
Among the trio of movement makers,
Venus is tragically less famous today
for it was never worn by Butch Cassidy,
and neither has it been to the Moon.
But the 175/178 family of chronograph
movements leading up to the split
seconds 179 and 185 were no less
impressive. They were used by scores
of now-forgotten brands but most
extensively by Breitling. It can be
found in many Breitling models from
that period including the Top Time,
Chronomat, Navitimer, Unitime,
Duograph and more.
Produced from 1942 till around
1960, the Venus 175 family had several
characteristics that distinguished
them from their Valjoux and Lemania
counterparts. First, the movement
featured a seven-pillar column wheel
instead of nine. Fewer pillars ensured
a more robust and reliable operation,
though having more pillars would
mean less rotational force needed and
therefore a softer pusher.
Secondly, it also had a drophammer
design. With a Valjoux,
specifically, pushing the lower button
to reset the chronograph would require
a more definite force to push the
hammers down onto the heart pieces.
In contrast, pushing the reset button
on a Venus would instead release the
hammer held by a pin that is under
the influence of a spring. The hammer
would then land smoothly on the heart
pieces, causing the chronograph
to rotate into the zero position.
The family of calibers included the
Venus 184 with date, moon phase and
hour counter, and the Venus 185, a split
seconds chronograph. However, they all
The Venus 175 used by Breitling
(Image: Urdelar.se)
shared the same foundation, which was
the caliber 175, a 17-jewel chronograph
movement with an operating frequency
of 2.5Hz. The 175 had two subdials
while the 178 and beyond had the
addition of an hour counter.
In the late 1940s, as demand for
cheaper chronographs grew, Venus
also began producing cam-switched
chronographs — the 188, the 200
and the 210. But as one can imagine,
the competition was stiff, and Venus
sought a financial boost by selling the
rights and machinery of their cal. 175
to the Tianjin Watch Factory in China.
The latter subsequently upgraded the
original 17-jewel movement to their
own ST19, a 19-jewel movement that
still remains in production today.
But by the mid-1960s, the popularity
of chronographs slowly began to decline
due to an increased interest in automatic
and waterproof time-only watches.
Venus eventually closed its doors in
1966. Its assets were absorbed by its
rival Valjoux, which discontinued column
wheel production and concentrated
on the Venus cam-switched cal. 188,
renamed as the Valjoux 7730 series.
Breitling Chronomat 769
with a Venus 175
Breitling Navitimer 806
with a Venus 178
Breitling Top Time “Panda” with a
Venus 178 (Image: Phillips.com)
FEATURE 101

THE RATTRAPANTE
CHRONOGRAPHS
Valjoux 55 in the Rolex ref. 4113 (Image: Phillips.com)
t the very pinnacle of chronographs is the split seconds, which
allows for the measurement of two events that begin simultaneously
but conclude at different times.
Mechanically, it is basically a chronograph mechanism but with an
additional wheel for the split seconds stacked on top of the chronograph
seconds wheel. This wheel has a spring-loaded lever affixed to it that acts
on the heart cam affixed to the chronograph seconds wheel beneath.
When the split seconds mechanism is activated, the “pincers” around
the split seconds wheel closes in on it, while the chronograph seconds
wheel beneath continues to rotate with the heart cam, and the springloaded
lever rides over the heart cam. Once it is deactivated, the pincers
open up, and the split seconds wheel springs back from the force of this
spring-loaded lever onto the heart cam.
The modular nature of the complication would mean that a split
seconds mechanism can be removed from or added on to a base
chronograph movement.
VALJOUX 55, LATE 1940S–1950S
Considering the rarity and
complexity of the complication
even by today’s standard, the split
seconds chronographs of the
mid-20th century were miracles
in their own right. Their scarcity
in modern watchmaking have
bolstered the appreciation and
demand for them on the vintage
market. And when brand prestige
and rarity come into play, prices
are through the roof. Examples
include the legendary Rolex 4113
that fetched over CHF 2 million
at auction as well as the Universal
Genève HA-1 Rattrapante
“A. Cairelli” for which prices have
shot past CHF 150,000.
Both of these watches were
powered by the Valjoux 55, a
split seconds version of the
Valjoux 54 which was originally
conceived for pocket watches. As
such, at 39.9mm (17.67 lignes)
in diameter, it was one of the
largest split seconds movements
of that era, making the watches
carrying this movement extremely
desirable in modern times.
The Rolex 4113 was the only
split seconds chronograph ever
produced by Rolex, and moreover,
only 12 were made. On top of
that, the Valjoux 55 in it was also
remarkably different from the
standard version. It had three
pushers instead of two, the top for
the split seconds, the pusher coaxial
to the crown for start/stop
and the bottom pusher for reset.
(Left) Valjoux
55 (Image:
Christies.com)
(Below, from left)
The Universal
Genève HA-1 with
a Valjoux 55 inside
that was reworked
to have a 16-minute
counter.Thewatch
sold for CHF 197,000
at Phillips in
2016; Rolex
ref. 4113 (Images:
Phillips.com)
102 FEATURE

VENUS 179/185/190 FAMILY, 1940S–1950S
Venus’ expertise in chronographs, on the other hand, culminated in the
split seconds calibers 179, 185 (with hour counter), and 190 (with hour
counter, date and moon phase) in the 1940s and ’50s. These calibers
shared the same basic construction as the Venus 175 with the addition of
the split seconds mechanism on top. These movements were used most
notably in the Breitling Duograph.
(Above, from left) Breitling Duograph;
Patek Philippe ref. 1436 with the
13-130 CCR inside
PATEK PHILIPPE 13-130 CCR, 1938–1971
One brand that led the way in rattrapante
chronographs, however, was Patek Phillippe. The ref.
1436, produced from 1938 to 1971, was the first serially
produced split seconds chronograph by the brand.
The movement inside was the 13-130 CCR, which is
based on the 13-ligne movement used in the ref. 130
chronograph, itself a heavily modified Valjoux 23.
Because it utilizes the framework of the 12-ligne
Valjoux 23, the movement is magnificently compact.
Some notable modifications include a fully supported
chronograph clutch that pivots over the upper fourth
wheel, a cap over the column wheel hub as well as the
implementation of a swan-neck regulator.
The ultimate rattrapante, however, is the ref. 2571,
a split seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar
— the father of the modern-day ref. 5004. It was
produced in just three pieces in 1955 and is by far the
holy grail of split seconds chronographs.
FEATURE 103

THE FLYBACK
CHRONOGRAPHS
ome of the most remarkable chronograph
movements of the 20th century, with the
exception of split seconds chronographs, however,
came from Longines. In 1935, the firm filed a
patent for the flyback mechanism, giving rise to
the legendary 13ZN in 1936 and its successor, the
30CH in 1947. These movements replaced the
Longines 13.33Z, the first chronograph movement
that was not derived from a pocket watch caliber.
1936 Longines 13ZN
LONGINES 13.33Z, 1913–1936
Most notably, the 13.33Z
featured an instantaneous
jumping minutes recorder, a
complex feature found in pocket
watch movements that remains
exceptionally rare today, with
two examples being the Lange
Datograph and the Patek 5170.
A majority of wristwatch
chronographs feature a finger
mounted on the chronograph
seconds wheel that advances
the chronograph minutes every
60 seconds, during which the
minute hand moves forward
slowly before it jumps to the next
minute marker. In contrast, a
snail-cam-and-lever system
is used in chronographs with
an instantaneous jumping
mechanism to ensure a clean and
precise jump every 60 seconds.
This system eventually gave way
to the more cost-effective semiinstantaneous
mechanism in the
13ZN and 30CH.
1927 Longines 13.33Z
104 FEATURE

LONGINES 13ZN, 1936–1947
Introduced in 1936, the flyback 13ZN
had 17 jewels, a diameter of 29.89mm
(13.25 lignes) and a height of 6.05mm. It
operated at a frequency of 2.5Hz and was
equipped with a Breguet hairspring. For
a long time, the 13ZN was believed to be
the first chronograph to be equipped with
a flyback function, hence its desirability.
But it was recently discovered that the
13.33Z had already been a testbed for the
flyback mechanism, which would make
the combination of technical qualities in
specific 13.33Zs (instantaneous minutes
plus flyback function) the most desirable.
One notable variation of the 13ZN
is the 13ZN-12, essentially the 13ZN
reworked to have a central minute
counter. It is believed that only 500
examples of these were produced,
making them the rarest variation of the
three chronograph movements Longines
produced before the discovery of the
13.33Z with a flyback function.
LONGINES 30CH, 1947–1970S
The 13ZN was eventually succeeded by the 30CH in 1947. The movement
specifications of the 30CH are nearly identical to the 13ZN except that
the layout of the movement is inverted. While the balance wheel in most
chronographs is positioned at six o’clock when viewed from the caseback,
the balance in the 30CH movement is located at 12 o’clock.
This is a minor oddity that required a wholesale redesigning of the
movement, including bridges, wheels and levers.
The clutch wheel, for instance, encroaches over the balance wheel
while the switching works are also inverted. This approach is not unique
but more unusual. Apart from having a slightly different pusher feel,
because the lever to the column wheel is shorter in the CH30, this layout
is virtually inconsequential, though it does pique our curiosity that
Longines would switch to such a construction.
The CH30 was the last in-house chronograph produced by Longines
as the demand for low-cost chronographs continued to grow.
Longines
Chronographe
30CH
1946 Longines 13ZN12 1962 Longines 30CH
1953 Longines 30CH
FEATURE 105

THE RACE FOR THE FIRST
AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH
y the mid-1960s, there was
a pressing need to break out
from the conventional operating
frequency of 2.5Hz as the threat
of quartz resonators loomed large.
Fabriques d’Assortiments Réunis
(now Nivarox) began developing an
improved Swiss lever escapement
with 21 teeth instead of 15, known
as the Clinergic 21, allowing
movements henceforth to operate
at a frequency of 4Hz or 5Hz, as
opposed to 2.5Hz and 3Hz. The
escapement made its debut in 1966.
The race to build the world’s first
automatic chronograph eventually
culminated in multiple watch
releases in 1969. It is worth noting
that the seeds of this innovation were
planted by Lemania in the 1940s.
Five years after the launch of the
CH 27, the compact chronograph
would become the testbed for a
“bumper” rotor developed as the
“CH 27 C12 A.” Alas, the project was
abandoned as superfluous.
The introduction of the first
automatic chronograph was a
three-way contest between Seiko,
a consortium made up of Dubois-
Dépraz, Büren, Breitling and Heuer
and lastly, Zenith, who in 1960
acquired chronograph specialist
Martel. The question of who came
uptopsisabitmurky,butwhat’s
perhaps more interesting is the
unique set of challenges and solutions
each movement represented.
(Above) A print ad for the Clinergic 21 escapement from 1969
SEIKO 6139 SPEED-TIMER,
1969–1979
The Seiko 6139 Speed-Timer was
the first automatic chronograph
to incorporate a column wheel
and vertical clutch — the latter
an advanced coupling system that
is more complex and superior to
the more common horizontalclutch
systems of the time; not
just in terms of durability, but
also functionality as it reduces
amplitude loss and eliminates the
initial stuttering of the seconds
hand. To put this accomplishment
into perspective, consider that
it would take Rolex two more
decades to update the Daytona
with an automatic movement,
and it would have to rely on the El
Primero (with a horizontal clutch)
to do so. It would then take the
brand another decade to launch
its own automatic movement
with a vertical clutch.
Impressively compact, the
Seiko 6139 had a diameter of
27mm (12 lignes) and a height
of 6.5mm. It had an operating
frequency of 3Hz, a ball-borne
full rotor, which worked in
conjunction with their signature
Magic Lever, a compact and
efficient bi-directional winding
system with a Y-shaped lever
and pawl. Alas, the movement
went out of production in 1979,
which explains why it is relatively
unknown in comparison to
the other two chronographs of
1969 that have enjoyed a strong
following till this day.
Seiko 6139 Speed-Timer
106 FEATURE

(Above, from left) The 1969 Zenith El Primero 3019 caliber with the rotor removed; Zenith
El Primero from 1969
“PROJECT 99” CHRONOMATIC/
CALIBER 11, 1969–1970S
The Chronomatic caliber 11 was
unveiled by the consortium made up
of Dubois-Dépraz, Büren, Breitling
and Heuer. Dubbed “Project 99”,
the movement was composed of a
lever-and-cam operated Dubois-
Dépraz chronograph module
8510 mounted on top an ultra thin
Büren Intramatic movement. Even
though the Chronomatic was the
only modular chronograph of the
three, the Intramatic was itself an
accomplishment as it enabled the
entire movement to be surprisingly
slim despite its modular construction.
It measured just 7.7mm high and
31mm (13.75 lignes) wide and had a
frequency 2.75Hz along with a power
reserve of 42 hours.
The Chronomatic caliber 11
comprised of an ultra thin Büren
Intramatic movement with a
Dubois- Dépraz module on top
ZENITH EL PRIMERO, 1969 – PRESENT
And finally, Zenith introduced the El Primero,
the only automatic chronograph with a beat
rate of 5Hz, enabling it to measure time with
an accuracy of 1/10th of a second thanks to the
incorporation of the Clinergic 21 escapement.
The rest is otherwise common knowledge.
The El Primero was a fully integrated
chronograph with a column wheel and
horizontal clutch. Most remarkably, it had a
power reserve of 50 hours, which alongside
its high balance power, signified a notably
well-designed movement that demonstrated
an optimal use of space. Conventionally, a long
power reserve is often achieved at the expense
of balance power.
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo caliber BVL 138,
for instance, manages a respectable power
reserve of 60 hours as it has a notably weak
balance power. It operates at a lower-thanaverage
frequency of 3Hz, and additionally,
features a strikingly small balance wheel which
signifies low inertia. Given that it is power
reserve, and ultimately, slenderness that take
precedence in the watch, these compromises
are only natural. It does, however, demonstrate
the extent of its concession to form.
The legendary workhorse and benchmark
for performance, the Valjoux 7750 strikes a
more viable balance with a frequency of 4Hz
and a power reserve of 44 hours. And still, the
El Primero boasts superior performance on
these counts, and manages to be slimmer with
a thickness of just 6.5mm versus the 7750’s
height of 7.9mm.
It doesn’t take much beyond this to see
that the El Primero truly is a great movement,
setting the pace for automatic chronographs
for a long time to come — till, of course, the
introduction of Microelectromechanical
(MEMS) technology and silicon, which would
boost performance on a whole other level.
FEATURE 107

THESECONDWAVEOF
AUTOMATICS
fter the launch of the three
automatic chronographs,
a second wave of automatic
movements followed just as quartz
technology was gaining momentum
in the horizon.
(From top) Seiko automatic flyback chronograph with
cal. 7016, featuring integrated hour and minute
chronograph counters; Seiko 5 Sports Speed-Timer
“Flyback” with the cal. 7017 (Image: Hubcityvintage.com)
SEIKO 7017, 1970 – LATE 1970S
Seiko doubled down on its landmark
innovation with the introduction of
yet another automatic chronograph
just a year later — the cal. 7017,
a flyback chronograph with a
column wheel and vertical clutch.
The movement did away with the
elapsed minute counter and like the
pioneering automatic Seiko 6139,
lacked an active running seconds. It
was, at its core, a three-hand watch
with a zero-reset function.
However, a vertically coupled
chronograph movement is
particularly fitting for such a
design as the lack of a running
seconds is a good reason to keep the
chronograph seconds running. This
is because vertical clutches are of a
co-axial structure, which generates
friction when the chronograph
is not in use, as the fourth wheel
would be rotating independently.
The chronograph seconds can thus
serve as the actual running seconds,
minimizing wear.
As a result of its minimalist
construction, the cal. 7017 stood just
6.4mm high, significantly slimmer
than the 7.9mm of the 6139 just a
year before. The cal. 7017 would
later acquire a 30-minute counter
in the 7018 and a combined minute
and hour counter in the cal. 7016.
This family of movements had a
frequency of 3Hz, a power reserve of
approximately 40 hours and could
not be hand wound.
108 FEATURE

Citizen automatic
flyback chronograph
with the cal. 8100
(Image: Mitka.co.uk)
CITIZEN 8100A/8110A, 1972 – EARLY 1980S
Right on the heels of Seiko was another Japanese
watchmaker, Citizen. Introduced in 1972, the calibers
8100A and 8110A represented an advanced class of
ultra thin flyback chronographs that ran at a higher
frequency of 4Hz and that could be wound by hand.
The 8100A had a 30-minute counter, while the 8110A
saw the addition of a 12-hour totalizer. The 8110A
stood at 6.9mm high while the 8100A measured
just 5.82mm, making it the slimmest automatic
chronograph at the time up until the introduction of
the Frédéric Piguet 1185.
LEMANIA 1340, 1972–1975
That year, Lemania developed the
cal. 1340 which would be adopted
by Omega as the 1040/1041 later.
It was a horizontally coupled, camswitched
automatic chronograph
movement with an eccentric
layout that was redolent of the
experimental spirit of the decade.
It had centrally mounted hands
for both the chronograph seconds
and minutes, which made reading
elapsed time an intuitive process
while freeing up space on the dial
for other indications. Located at
six o’clock was a 12-hour totalizer
while a small seconds counter
doubled as a day-and-night
indicator at nine o’clock and a
date window at three. Its peculiar
design would permeate every other
aspect of the watches it inhabited
— case in point, the Omega
Speedmaster 125 which had an
equally distinctive tonneau case
and integrated bracelet to match.
The movement ran at a modern
frequency of 4Hz and offered a
44-hour power reserve.
The key difference between
the Lemania 1340 and the Omega
1040 apart from its finishing was
that the latter had the addition of
a 24-hour indicator in the small
seconds at nine o’clock.
The 1040 was Omega’s first
automatic chronograph movement
while the 1041 was the world’s first
COSC-certified chronograph.
Omega
Speedmaster 125
powered by the
chronometergrade
cal. 1041,
making it the
first automatic
chronograph
chronometer
FEATURE 109

LEMANIA 5100, 1974 – EARLY 2000S
The Lemania 1340 was eventually replaced by the
legendary 5100 in 1974. The dial layouts of both
movements are almost identical except that the
latter had a separate 24-hour counter at 12 o’clock.
However, mechanically, they were worlds apart. This
was a movement that was designed in the thick of the
Quartz Crisis, which ultimately heralded a perceived
need for cost-efficient yet better-performing
mechanical movements.
First, it featured a vertical clutch system which
made it sufficiently robust for military applications.
In contrast to a horizontally coupled chronograph
mechanism, in which the chronograph seconds is
driven by an intermediate wheel, a vertical clutch
is typically integrated with the fourth wheel, which
directly drives the chronograph seconds. But that
said, it is worth noting that not all vertically coupled
chronograph movements have the fourth wheel located
near the middle, in which case they would require an
indirect train to drive the chronograph seconds.
As a result of having a directly driven chronograph
seconds, the 5100 was said to have excellent shock
resistance in contrast to horizontally coupled
movements of the time wherein the seconds hand was
prone to stopping when subject to shocks.
More unusual was its anachronistic, almost
perfunctory architecture. The movement plate and
bridges were held together by pillars, sandwiching the
moving parts. This significantly reduced construction
costs as the parts were able to be stamped, as opposed
to a conventional movement in which the baseplate
is milled so as to create recesses to hold all the gears
inside. Additionally, parts of the movement such as
the cam, clutch plate and calendar wheel were made
of Delrin, a high-tech, self-lubricating plastic. And
instead of a ball-borne rotor used in the 1340, the
rotor was seated on a hard iron bearing and held in
place with a push fork.
In contrast to its construction, its specs were
decidedly advanced. It operated at a frequency of 4Hz
and had a 48-hour power reserve.
(From below left)
The Lemania
5100 with a costeffective
pillartype
construction
(Image:
WatchGuy.co.uk);
Sinn 157 St Ty
equipped with the
Lemania 5100
110 FEATURE

The Valjoux 7750
with a layered
switching cam and
an oscillating pinion
VALJOUX 7750, 1974 – PRESENT
Meanwhile, Valjoux’s response to the pioneering automatics
was the cal. 7750, a landmark workhorse that would prove
indispensable to watchmaking. In many ways, the cal. 7750, like
the Lemania 5100, had to be designed with the implications of
the Quartz Crisis in mind. As a result, these movements reflected
a distinctly different approach to engineering in which doing the
most with the simplest and fewest components is a virtue.
Crucially, the Valjoux 7750 was among the first movements
to be built with computer-aided design (CAD) technology,
hence various aspects of the transmission system could be
optimized to improve performance. It has a notably high-torque
mainspring which famously allows it to accommodate a variety
of complications, from perpetual calendars to tourbillons,
with no impact on chronometry. Its gear train alone has been
continuously adopted and utilized by many brands and in nonchronograph
movements due to its robustness and reliability.
Like the Lemania 5100, the Valjoux 7750 uses a switching
cam, which, in contrast to a column wheel, could be stamped and
produced in numbers. But where it differed from many of its ilk is
its coupling system. While the 5100 had a more complex vertical
clutch, the Valjoux 7750 utilized an oscillating pinion, a highly
economical system that consists of an arbor with a pinion on both
ends. It is the simplest, most practical way to connect the fourth
wheel, which lies on the baseplate, to the chronograph seconds
above. Because of its small size, it was able to eliminate the
sidestep of the seconds hand and minimize amplitude loss when
the chronograph is engaged.
While the oscillating pinion was used in the past in
movements such as the Venus 170 and the Valjoux 92, it was
the Valjoux 7750 that brought it to the forefront of modern
chronograph design. After the Quartz Crisis, Valjoux
consolidated into ETA, which became part of Swatch Group,
and the Valjoux 7750 became the industry’s first stop for an
automatic chronograph.
FRÉDÉRIC PIGUET 1185, 1988 – PRESENT
In the years that followed, chronographs became
sharp reflections of the seismic changes brought
about by the Quartz Crisis. In 1988, Frédéric Piguet
unveiled the cal. 1185, an automatic movement
replete with upscale features. It had a column wheel
and vertical clutch design — the most technically
superior and costly configuration — along with a ball
bearing rotor, a micrometer regulator, and Kif shock
absorber. But the movement would prove greater
than the sum of its parts.
For a long time, the cal. 1185 stood as the
smallest and slimmest automatic column wheel
chronograph, measuring just 26mm in diameter
and 5.5mm high as it was based on the handwound
ultra thin cal. 1180 that the manufacturer
had introduced a year earlier.
This movement is an example of a vertically
coupled chronograph in which the fourth wheel
is not located in the middle. Instead, its gear train
layout is typical of a time-only watch with a small
seconds, where the fourth wheel is located at six
o’clock. And as such, it is the escape wheel pinion
that drives the chronograph seconds wheel in the
middle. This construction allows the movement
to be more compact. Additionally, its ball-borne
rotor accounts for a mere 1.55mm in height.
In terms of performance, it runs at 3Hz and
offers a power reserve of 42 hours, which is to say,
it is as efficient as its dimensions allow. A year
later, the caliber would spawn the world’s first
automatic rattrapante, the 1186, which stood at a
height of just 6.9mm.
After the manufacture was integrated into
Blancpain, the 1185 would continue to find success
in and outside of the Swatch Group, most notably
in the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph.
The Frédéric Piguet 1185 with its fourth wheel visible
under the bridge at 12 o’clock
FEATURE 111

Words Ross Povey
As we admire our watches, our desks
become altars, our watch boxes; tiny
temples and our minds, quiet sanctuaries.
We are still
present
ready.
It’s a new dawn,
It’s a new day,
It’s a new life.
CHOPARD
Alpine Eagle Chrono, 44mm
112 STILL LIFE

STILL LIFE 113
OMEGA
DarkSideOfTheMoon
Co-Axial Chronometer
Chronograph, 44.25mm

114 STILL LIFE
PATEK PHILIPPE
Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Ref. 5270J-001 in yellow gold

IWC
Dark Portugieser Yacht
Club Chronograph
STILL LIFE 115

TUDOR
Heritage Chrono Blue,
42mm Opaline and
blue dial Fabric Strap
116 STILL LIFE

STILL LIFE 117
ZENITH
Chronomaster Sport
in steel, 41mm

AUDEMARS PIGUET
Royal Oak Offshore
Selfwinding Chronograph
118 STILL LIFE

HUBLOT
Big Bang Unico Titanium
CeramicMatteblack
skeleton dial, 45mm
Photography
Felicity McCabe
Photographer’s Assistant
Lucia Svecova
Fashion Assistant
Amelia Hudson
STILL LIFE 119

The Complete History of the Amazing
LEMANIA CHRONOGRAPH
CALIBER2310
The Lemania 2310, aka caliber 321 in the original Omega Moonwatch,
belongs to the pantheon of the world’s greatest chronograph movements.
Beautifully made, it is also incredibly durable and adaptable.
Words Wei Koh
C
huck Yeager, Muhammad Ali, Rocco Siffredi… there are certain individuals
that are, to borrow from Bernard Malamud’s The Natural, irrefutably,
unassailably and undoubtedly superhumanly gifted: “The best there ever was
in the game.” The thing is, many pretenders to the throne only understand this when
they are confronted by true greatness, leaving them in the sudden crushing revelation
that, try as they might, in the words of the mighty African-American author James
Weldon Johnson, “Young man, young man, your arm’s too short to box with God.”
Such was the lesson imparted to rookie Reggie Miller when he encountered the
greatest basketball player of all time, His Airness Michael Jordan. Miller recalls
that it was his rookie year with the Indiana Pacers when he found himself playing an
exhibition game with the Chicago Bulls. On that team was, of course, Michael Jordan,
whom Miller describes as being “three or four years in.”
He continues, “Most veterans don’t like playing exhibition games — they want to
get to the real thing. I’m a wide-eyed, energetic rookie, and Michael is going through
the motions. Chuck Person, who is on my team, is like, ‘Can you believe Michael
Jordan? The guy everyone’s talking about who’s supposed to walk on water? You’re
out there killing him, Reg. You should talk to him.’”
Miller chuckles as he recalls, “So I went up to him and said, ‘Michael, who do you
think you are? That’s right, there’s a new kid in town.’” Unfortunately for Miller, that
was all the motivation Jordan needed. He says, “He looks at me, then starts shaking
his head. So at half, I have 10 and he has four points. The second half, he ended up
with 44 and I ended up with 12. So he outscored me 40-2. As he’s walking off, he
turns to me and says, ‘Be careful, you never talk to Black Jesus like that.’”
The Vacheron Constantin
Calibre 1142 has a frequency
of 21,600 vph (3Hz) and
sports a free sprung balance
wheel. Its intermediate bridge
is a mix of a V and Y, and
features a micro-sandblasted
treatment on the chronograph
rakes and levers that sets
it apart from every other
timepiece that uses the
Lemania 2310 as a base
THE GREATEST CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT OF ALL TIME
For me, the Lemania 2310 or CH 27 — as was its name while in development by the
brilliant Albert Gustave Piguet, the movement maker’s technical director — is the
most beautiful, historically significant, and yes… the greatest chronograph movement
of all time. And yes, I’ve taken into consideration the sublime Victorin Piguet ébauche
movements from the 1920s, the Longines caliber 13.33Z and even the Valjoux 13-130.
There are three things that are particularly extraordinary about the 2310. The
first is the great technical leap forward it represented in 1942, when it was first
launched. At 27mm in diameter and 6.74mm in height, it was the world’s smallest
chronograph movement then, beating the 13.33Z and 13-130, which were both
FEATURE 121

(From top left) Open caseback on a 1950s Lemania chronograph in pink gold,
showcasing a Lemania 2310 movement. The Lemania 2310 is immediately
recognizable with its durable and adaptable architecture. The movement uses a
column wheel control system. Levers and springs are cut and shaped from a thick
steel sheet while bridges are plated with pink gold. Finishing on the movement
is highly functional; A close-up of the column wheel control system used for the
Lemania 2310 (Image: ninanet.net; SteveG’s Watch Launchpad)
(From right) An example of the Omega Speedmaster ref. ST105.012, which was
powered by the Caliber 321, Omega's own take on the Lemania 2310. The movement
was used to power the Speedmaster from 1959 to 1968, when it was replaced by
the Caliber 861. The ST105.012 and ST145.012 were the Speedmasters that went
to the moon on the wrists of Apollo astronauts
IMAGE: NASA.GOV
13 lignes (29mm), by a considerable margin. (As an aside,
if you’ve ever wondered why a Patek reference 130 has its
subdials pushed all the way to the edge of its 33mm case, it is
because of the size of the Valjoux movement within.) Being a
smaller-sized movement made the 2310 incredibly adaptable
to different case styles and configurations.
The second thing is that, from 1946 to 1968, it was used
by Omega as the caliber 321, where it had an unrivaled track
record for incredible reliability and performance, culminating
in it powering the only watches that passed NASA’s torture test
for certification for use in space.
The third: as it was really the only manual wind, column
wheel, classic chronograph being manufactured in ébauche
form in the 1980s, it played a seminal role in the Swiss watch
industry’s recovery from the Quartz Crisis, allowing maisons
such as Patek Philippe, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin and
Roger Dubuis to collectively stage the resurgence of the
mechanical chronograph. Two of these brands, Patek Philippe
122 FEATURE

and Breguet, even built split seconds versions of this
movement — a considerable technical undertaking as
explained to me by the legendary Philippe Stern.
The thing to understand is that without Omega, the
caliber 2310 would never have been born. By the beginning
of the 20th century, Omega had become synonymous with
the chronograph complication. Indeed, it had launched
its first pocket-watch chronograph movement, the 19´´´
CHRO, a full century before in 1898. This was followed
up by the 18´´´ CHRO in 1906 which was also a pocketwatch
movement, though it was famously adapted for use
in the world’s first wristwatch chronograph. Both the 18´´´
and 19´´´ CHRO were of the monopusher configuration
with stop, start and reset all activated by a single pusher.
Omega then created a movement called the 39 CHRO
which was made between 1929 and 1940. It was still largely
used in pocket watches, but occasionally in wristwatches
and in monopusher and bi-pusher configuration. Then,
something happened called The Great Depression.
The 18’’’ CHRO
caliber as it
would’ve looked
when it was
pulled out from
the vaults of
Omega’s museum
An assembled, undecorated
19-ligne
Omega caliber
A multi-scale Omega monopusher
chronograph pocketcwatch ref.
1067 from the 1940s, powered
by the Caliber 39 CHRO (Image:
bruun-rasmussen.dk)
FEATURE 123

THE WORKHORSE CHRONOGRAPH
The Great Depression, which began in 1929 and endured for a decade,
was the result of artificially inflated stock prices. Everyone rode the stock
market’s bull rush throughout the heady, lascivious Jazz Age of the 1920s,
forging an eerily accurate precursor to the events that led to the subprime
mortgage crisis almost 90 years later. Stock prices boomed even as
consumer debt spiraled out of control, unemployment rose and the
agricultural sector failed due to droughts. Finally, there was a total global
loss of confidence in the stock market, and a financial and economic
bloodbath ensued. As you can imagine, the demand for mechanical
watches was severely impacted. But it is incredible that with every global
crisis — the Great Depression, the Second World War, the Quartz Crisis
— the best watch brands reacted with creativity and courage.
Strength in consolidation became a key strategy, and with that,
Omega, Tissot and Lemania joined forces between 1930 and 1932 in
a new group was called the Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère
(SSIH). Lemania became the exclusive movement supplier for Omega,
and by 1936, half a million Lemania movements were in production
at any given time. During this period, two of the first truly modern
movements created especially for wristwatch chronographs emerged.
The first was the Lemania CH 13-based Omega 28.9 CHRO
launched in 1932 that measured 29mm in diameter and was
characterized by its beautiful V-shaped bridge. The second was the
Lemania CH 15-based 33.3 CHRO that measured 33.3mm in diameter
and used a distinct U-shaped bridge that would also appear in the
Omega 321. This was launched in 1933. Omega watches with the 33.3
CHRO are much sought after as the caliber represents an important
precursor to the 2310 or 321. Note that it is clear both the 28.9 and 33.3
movements were in development before the SSIH consolidation.
What has been the source of some discussion is that the orientation
of both these movements is opposite that of the 18´´´ and 39 CHRO.
Meaning that if you had a 33.3 or 28.9 CHRO-powered watch and
looked at it from the front and removed the dial, the balance wheel
would appear at six o’clock. In the 18´´´ and 39 CHRO
watches, it would appear at 12 o’clock. Most people feel
that this is because the 33.3 and 28.9 were wristwatch
movements while 18´´´ and 39 were pocket-watch
movements. But quite honestly, no one really knows.
Interestingly, when Albert Gustave Piguet set to
work on the Lemania 2310 or CH 27, he flipped the
orientation back so the balance was once again at 12
o’clock. What was the impetus for the creation of this
new movement?
First, a new movement was needed for wristwatches
which had completely taken over from pocket watches in
popularity and had considerably smaller diameters. So
Piguet was tasked with creating the smallest movement
he could and arrived at the 27mm diameter. Second,
Lemania and Omega were focused on the creation of a
new workhorse chronograph that would be small and
slim, and most importantly, feature a 12-hour totalizer
that was essential for the burgeoning activities in both
auto racing and aviation. Finally, the 2310 would be one
of the first critical projects under the newly consolidated
SSIH group. So, on all levels, the Lemania 2310 was
really a movement that symbolized the advent of the
modern world in the 20th century.
One image that has intrigued many movement
aficionados is the image of prototype automatic Lemania
2310-based movements. These are dated to 1947, but
were never put into production. But it is interesting to
see that a full 12 years before the launch of the Zenith El
Primero, there were already early experiments into an
automatic winding integrated chronograph.
So, let’s look at the brands and watches that are most
famously associated with this amazing movement.
(Left) CHRO 33.3 has the balance at bottom compared to the 2310,
which has it at the top; (Above) Long before the 1969 birth of the
automatic chronograph movement, prototype Lemania 2310 selfwinding
movements may very well have been the world's very first
automatic chronographs (Image: Northernman from omegaforums.net)
124 FEATURE

TWO COUNTERS OR THREE?
In 1942, the caliber 2310 or CH 27 was introduced in two versions: the CH 27-17P two-counter version
(with seconds and chrono minutes) and CH 27-12P three-counter version (with seconds, chrono minutes
and 12-hour totalizer). Adding to the complexity, the movement came in a 17-jewel version, which formed
the base of the Omega 321, and also a 21-jewel version with swan-neck regulator known as the Lemania
2320. To put this in perspective, all haute de gamme brands that adopted the movement in the 1980s and
1990s would use the 21-jewel, swan-neck-regulator version 2320 but with two counters, so to be exact,
they used the CH 27-17P. Omega used the 17-jewel, three-counter version 2310, or to be precise, the CH
27-12P for their caliber 321.
The caliber 2310 is truly a thing of beauty. Let’s look at some of its central characteristics.
Themassivebalancewheelbeatsat18,000vph,althoughmanybrandshaveincreasedthisvibrational
speed to 21,600vph.
The column wheel is the command center of the chronograph. All the best chronographs use column
wheels to activate the sequence of start, stop and reset.
The intermediate bridge holds down the wheel for the minute counter and the all-important
chronograph central seconds wheel. Note that this bridge has been the subject of a great deal of
artistic expression for different brands. The Patek Philippe bridge is distinctly V-shaped. The Vacheron
Constantin bridge is somewhere between a V and Y shape. The Roger Dubuis bridge is fully Y- or
wishbone-shaped. The Omega 321 bridge is U-shaped. The Breguet is somewhere between a U and a Y.
The reset hammers for the chronograph wheel and minute counter are one piece.
The chronograph coupling lever, seconds wheel (co-axial with the seconds wheel that is driving
the continuous seconds indicator) and the intermediate or drive wheel are all placed in a compact
arrangement just beside the chronograph seconds wheel.
The Lemania 2310 has a very high level of adjustability, including the depth of engagement for the
drive wheel.
FEATURE 125

The Omega Speedmaster launched in 1957 was the very first chronograph
withthetachymeterfeaturedonthebezelofthewatch.Itwasalsothe
first watch to use the Lemania 2310-based caliber 321. The watch seen
here is the CK2915-1 sold by Phillips, at their Geneva Watch Auction on
12 May 2018 (Image: phillipswatches.com)
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CALIBER 321, BASED ON THE
LEMANIA 2310 OR CH 27-12P, 1957–1968
There is no brand more synonymous with the amazing
Lemania 2310 than Omega. In 1946, Omega created
its own version of this movement and dubbed it the
caliber 321.The Speedmaster chronograph was initially
created to meet the demands of a burgeoning autoracing
culture that was sweeping the United States and
Europe. While the movement had been used in several
Omega models before, it found its true home in a new
chronograph with the first-ever tachymetric scale
engraved on the bezel — the Speedmaster. Legend,
of course, goes that this watch was subsequently
certified as the official timepiece for NASA. Every
watch that received this certification and that went into
space was one of the following three models: the 105.03,
the 105.012 and the 145.012. And they all used the
caliber 321.
As homage to this movement’s incredible history,
Omega’s brilliant CEO Raynald Aeschlimann brought
the movement back last year. It is constructed in a
purpose-built section of the Omega manufacture.
Every movement is assembled, regulated, finished
and cased by one individual watchmaker, who then
personally signs the warranty card for that 321 watch.
Aeschlimann is quick to point out that the modern
caliber 321 is not a gussied-up Lemania 2310 ébauche
but a ground-up development.
These are the three references certified for space by Omega. Every one of these watches features a caliber 321. (From left to right) The third generation of the
Speedmaster, the 1963 ST 105.003; Speedmaster ref. ST 105.012 with a pulsation scale bezel; Speedmaster ref. ST 145.012 with a DON bezel (Image: Christies.com)
126 FEATURE

For Omega
CEO Raynald
Aeschlimann, the
re-creation of
the caliber 321
had to be exact.
This involved a
slice-by-slice
3D tomographic
scan of the
movement found
in astronaut Gene
Cernan’s actual
ST105.003 that
he wore to the
Moon and that is
now in the Omega
Museum
The Speedmaster
Moonwatch 321
Platinum
Omega's 2019 new
original caliber 321 with
PVD-treated bridges
andplatesinthehueof
Omega's Sedna gold
(©Revolution)
FEATURE 127

The Speedmaster
Moonwatch 321
Stainless Steel
The caseback of the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Stainless
Steel, powered by the Omega new original caliber 321
Says Aeschlimann, “When we asked Speedmaster
collectors what their dream was, the vast majority said
they wanted to see a resurrection of the caliber 321. So
we thought if we are going to do this, we have to do it
the right way.” Rather than using an existing Lemania
2310 ébauche from their Swatch Group sister brand
Breguet, Omega decided to completely and accurately
reverse-engineer the original 321 caliber, down to
its exact specifications. In order to do this, Omega’s
team, helmed by Aeschlimann, had to petition the
Swatch Group’s board of directors. From a purely
financial perspective, it made no sense to resurrect the
321, especially not in the way Omega intended, which
involved a slice-by-slice 3D tomographic scan of the
movement found in astronaut Gene Cernan’s actual
ST105.003 timepiece that he wore to the Moon and
that is now found in their museum. The cost of this scan
alone was over one million Swiss francs. To replicate the
exact pallet with its very specific guard pin, Omega also
had to approach Nivarox to recreate this component
down to its finest details.
“The only way we could truly respect this incredible
movement and all its devotees, as well as the legions of
fans passionate about the Speedmaster’s history, is [to]
go down to these painstaking details and bring the 321
back in its full integrity and authenticity. That is the only
way for us here at Omega,” says Aeschlimann.
128 FEATURE

BREGUET CALIBER 533.3, BASED ON THE
LEMANIA 2320 OR CH 27-17P, CIRCA 2000S–PRESENT DAY
The ’70s was a turbulent period in Switzerland with the watch industry
reeling from the effects of the Quartz Crisis. At the very bleakest
moment, one extraordinary man emerged to save the Swiss watch
industry. His name was Nicolas G. Hayek.
Hayek had established a reputation as a restructuring expert when
he was asked to oversee the liquidation of two groups, Allgemeine
Schweizerische Uhrenindustrie AG (ASUAG) and the previously
mentioned SSIH. But instead of liquidating them, he realized he
could save them if he could make them more efficient. The first thing
he did was consolidate them both into one group named the Société
de Microélectronique et d’Horlogerie (SMH, later to be renamed the
Swatch Group).
When he did his analysis of ASUAG, Hayek was shocked to discover
the profound inefficiencies of the 100-plus companies, all of which
were doing separate R&D, marketing and assembly. He introduced
the concepts of streamlining and verticalization, and in a lesson clearly
learned by the German auto industry, invested in the standardization of
parts. In this process, he discovered a project on making simple, efficient
mechanical watches using 51 parts instead of the usual hundreds of
parts, and he named this the Swatch watch and, using dynamic marketing
techniques, created the first mass shift against the Quartz Crisis.
Lemania came out of the SSIH group in 1981. It was renamed
Nouvelle Lemania and was purchased by Breguet in 1992. Swatch
Group purchased Breguet in 1999 and with it, Lemania. The brilliance
of Nick Hayek was to always verticalize production. Just as Blancpain
has Frédéric Piguet, Breguet had Lemania. To be fair, Lemania would
have had much of its production dedicated to its historical ally, Omega,
which was also Hayek’s motivation for purchasing Breguet. Amongst
the various movements in the Lemania arsenal that were lying dormant
like a sleeping giant was, of course, the amazing Lemania 2310/2320.
As such, the creation of beautiful Classique-cased chronographs using
the venerable Lemania 2320 seemed only natural. The modern version
of this watch is the reference 5287.
The Breguet 5287 is a watch for horological purists. It has all
of the iconic design language created by Abraham-Louis Breguet.
(From top left) The
Lemania 2320-equipped
Breguet 5287 is one
ofmyfavoritedress
chronographs for
horological purists. It has
all of the iconic design
language created by
Breguet; Swatch Group
founder, Nicolas G. Hayek
Says Emmanuel Breguet, the head of patrimony and
marketing for the manufacture, “At the time, watches
were very baroque in decoration. He [A-L Breguet]
was the first to introduce a new, clean, modern design
language. He applied subtly different decorations to
each sector of the dial to aid in clarity.”
The 5287 uses snailing for the chrono minute
counter and an amazing circular barleycorn decoration
for the continuous seconds counter (note that this
features a two-sided hand read off a 30-minute
track). The dial receives Paris hobnail guilloché, while
the hour indexes are on a circular brushed track with
the tachymeter on an opaline flange. The entire dial
is solid gold and a masterwork of guilloché main or
hand guilloché, where these patterns are engraved
using hand-guided, ancient rose-engine machines.
The round case has the same fluted caseband that A-L
Breguet used to decorate his pocket watches.
Now, flip the watch over and revel in the glory of the
Lemania 2320. Interestingly, this is the only version of
the Lemania 2320 that uses 24 jewels. Breguet also uses
the swan-neck regulator but increases the vibrational
speed to 3Hz.
FEATURE 129

PATEK PHILIPPE CALIBER CH 27-70,
BASED ON THE LEMANIA 2320 OR
CH 27-17P, 1985–2011
In the ’80s, the Lemania 2310 became a
canvas of expression for watchmaking’s
most revered maisons. The first of these was
Patek Philippe.
Amazingly, Philippe Stern used this
movement in 1985 to replace the Valjoux
13-130 of the 2499, creating the amazing
3970 perpetual calendar chronograph.
In Patek-speak, the movement is called
the CH 27-70. Thanks to the Lemania
2320’s 27mm diameter, he was actually
able to make a smaller watch at 36mm in
comparison to the 2499’s 37.5mm diameter.
The chronograph-only version — the 5070
launched in 1998 — would conversely be
the largest Patek chronograph ever serially
produced at 42mm.
These two watches show the amazing
adaptability of this movement for watch
designs. The CH 27-70 continued to be
used in the successor to the 3970, the larger
40mm-diameter 5970 designed by Thierry
Stern, and also in the iconic perpetual
calendar with split seconds function, often
considered one of the holy grails of watch
collecting, known as the Patek Philippe
5004, produced from 1996 to 2011.
(From top) The
Patek Philippe
ref. 5070 at
42mm is the
largest wristwatch
chronograph to
feature the CH
27-70; Display
caseback of the
5070 showcasing
the CH 27-70
within (Image:
Phillips.com)
(From left) Launched in 1985 by Patek
Philippe, the 3970 perpetual calendar
chronograph marked the return of
the Lemania 2310/2320. Seen here
is a first series 3970, exclusively
made in yellow gold with baton hour
markers, most easily identified by
its snap caseback that meant that
this watch was not water-resistant
to any degree; The snap caseback
ofthefirstseriesPatekPhilippe
ref. 3970 (Image: sothebys.com)
130 FEATURE

FEATURE 131
(From top) Wei's Patek
Philippe perpetual
calendar chronograph
ref. 5970 in rose gold
with a unique chocolate
dial; Caseback view of
Wei's Patek Philippe
Perpetual Calendar
Chronograph ref. 5970
showcasing the Lemaniabased
CH 27-70

One of the coolest and most stunning
executions of the Lemania movement is
found in this fully skeletonized Vacheron
Constantin Patrimony Chronograph.
These are trading in the USD 30,000
range, making them a bargain to me
(Image: Sothebys.com)
The first Vacheron that featured
theLemania-basedcaliber
1140 was the reference 47101,
a tribute to the reference
4178 from the ’40s (Image:
acollectedman.com)
VACHERON CONSTANTIN CALIBER 1140/1141, BASED ON THE
LEMANIA 2320 OR CH 27-17P, 1991–PRESENT DAY
Since 1991, Vacheron Constantin has been able to create some of
the most handsome chronographs using the 21-jewel Lemania 2320
as its base. This movement was dubbed the Vacheron caliber 1140.
According to Vacheron Constantin, the 1140 was based on the 17-jewel
2310 model. But the confusion arises from the fact that when I’ve
looked at caliber 1140-equipped Vacheron watches, they appeared
to have 21 jewels and swan-neck regulators, leading to me believe
that this work was undertaken in-house. The 1141, however, uses the
Lemania 2320 as its base, which comes with 21 jewels and a swan-neck
regulator. Note that none of these movements was Geneva Seal.
The first Vacheron Constantin watch to feature the 1140 is the
beautiful reference 47101. This stunning chronograph with tear-dropshaped
lugs was launched in 1991 as a tribute to one of the brand’s most
famous chronographs from the ’40s and ’50s, the reference 4178.
Over the last three decades, the manufacture has used the
1140/1141 for three models — the Historiques Chronograph, the Malte
Chronograph and the Patrimony Traditionnelle, where it has also been
combined with a perpetual calendar.
Of these watches, one of the most sublime is the 47100, a
magnificent skeletonized version of the Patrimony Chronograph.
These watches can be purchased in the secondary market for around
USD 20,000 to USD 30,000, which is a considerable bargain
considering their original price is four times that.
Although the halcyon manufacture launched its own in-house
chronograph movement in 3300 in 2015, it still continues to use
this charming historic movement in what can be considered one of
Vacheron Constantin’s most successful chronographs of all time, the
magnificent Cornes de Vache which takes its name from
its stylized lugs. The Cornes de Vache is inspired by the
1955 reference 6087. Amusingly, the original 35mm
watch from 1955 featured a Valjoux 23 movement which
measured 29.5mm as opposed to the 27mm diameter
1142 of the modern watch.
The Cornes de Vache is to me one of the most
desirable and iconic modern men’s dress chronographs
on the market. Launched in 2015, the watch was a
brilliant modernization of the smaller 6087. Says Emilie
Vuilleumier, the designer who was tasked with the
Caseback of the Vacheron Constantin Malte
Chronograph “Collection Excellence Platine” showcasing
the caliber 1141 (Image: Christies.com)
132 FEATURE

watch’s creation, “The original watch has very rounded lugs. But we
wanted to add a more dramatic sharper profile to the edge to add a
sense of dynamic tension to the overall design.” Flip the watch over
and revel in the most beautiful chronograph movement ever created.
Note that the movement in the Cornes de Vache is 1142. How
does the 1142 differ from the 1141? Well, it is the in-house-produced
version of the movement. Richemont acquired the rights
to manufacture this movement when it purchased Roger
Dubuis in 2008. From a technical perspective, the most
obvious difference between the 1142 and its predecessor
is the use of a free-sprung balance wheel which is clearly
inspired by the Patek Philippe CH 27-70.
Apièceunique
Vacheron
Constantin
Historiques
Cornes de Vache
1955 in yellow
gold made for
Wei
Wei's pièce
unique Cornes
de Vache is well
powered by the
caliber 1142
Wei's pièce unique Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache was delivered with four dial options
2015
Vacheron Constantin Historiques
Cornes de Vache 1955 ref.
5000H/000P-B058 in platinum that
was launched at Watches & Wonders
2015, in Hong Kong; the watch was
powered by the caliber 1142
2016
Vacheron Constantin
Historiques Cornes de Vache
1955 ref. 5000H/000R-B059
in 18K 4N pink gold was
launched in 2016
2017
Vacheron Constantin
Historiques Cornes de Vache
1955 ref. 5000H/000A was a
limited edition of 36 pieces
made for Hodinkee in 2017,
in stainless steel
2019
Vacheron Constantin Historiques
Cornes de Vache 1955 ref.
5000H/000A-B582 in stainless steel
was launched in 2019; the watch
comes fitted on a dark brown calf
leather with Serapian patina
FEATURE 133

Roger Dubuis
Hommage
Chronograph Ref.
H40 655 (40mm)
with a matte black
dial and polished
white gold details,
including applied
Breguet numerals;
The watch is
powered by the
Lemania-based
manual-winding
Cal. RD 65 (Image:
acollectedman.com)
ROGER DUBUIS CALIBERS 56 AND 65, BASED ON THE
LEMANIA 2320 OR CH 27-17P, 1995–2003
In 1995, Roger Dubuis, a watchmaker who’d spent many seminal
years at Patek Philippe and gained renown for creating the world’s
first double-retrograde perpetual calendar along with Agenhor
founder Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, launched his eponymous brand.
His Hommage model can only be described as his expression
for vintage Patek Philippe design. He created his Lemania
2320-based chronograph in three sizes — 34mm, 37mm and
40mm — demonstrating the remarkable design adaptability of the
movement. His Lemania movements received the Geneva Seal and
were certified as chronometers by the observatory at Besançon. They
are designated RD56 for the regular two-pusher version and RD65
for the monopusher version. I believe that Roger Dubuis was the
only modern watchmaker and brand to make a monopusher version
of the Lemania 2320. Dubuis used the movement in other models,
including his baroque Sympathie case which was combined with the
double-retrograde perpetual calendar, and notably, the Easy Diver
Chronograph, making it the only dive watch to receive the Geneva
Seal. OK, here’s the important thing about the 2320 movement found
in the Roger Dubuis watches. Dubuis managed to secure the rights to
produce the movement in-house. In 2008, when Richemont Group
bought Roger Dubuis, it obtained the rights to produce this movement.
Of the various Lemania 2320-based Roger Dubuis chronographs,
my favorites are the H40 (40mm size) Roger Dubuis Hommage
Chronographs. I’ve spoken at length about how, from a design
perspective, I find these to be some of the most beautiful watches of
the modern era, in particular related to the combination of Breguet
numerals, pointed baton markers, applied dots and perfectly designed
typography, as seen here on my personal watch.
Wei's personal Roger Dubuis Hommage Chronograph H40 with matte black dial and
polished white gold applied Breguet numerals, and the caseback view showcasing the
Lemania-based manual winding cal. RD56
134 FEATURE

Caseback view of the Patek
Philippe ref. 5004P platinum
split seconds chronograph
showcasing the CHR 27-70Q
powering this monumental
piece of watchmaking mastery
(Image: Phillips.com)
PATEK PHILIPPE SPLIT SECONDS REF. 5004
One of my favorite fantasies is to take a Patek Philippe
5004, travel back in time, and show the creator
of the Lemania 2310, Albert Gustave Piguet, the
transformation of what he had conceived as a workhorse
movement into what I feel is the single most beautiful
and technically ground-breaking, complicated
chronograph movement of all time.
The 5004 launched in 1994 is a watch that Philippe
Stern had pushed his team passionately for, a journey
that was not without some massive hurdles. But first
let me briefly explain what a split seconds chronograph
is. It is a chronograph with two seconds hands that run
together. When you press the split button, integrated in
the 5004 into the crown, the split seconds hand stops
for you to record an interval time such as a lap time,
while the chronograph seconds hand continues to march
imperiously forward. Press the split button a second
time and the split seconds hand instantly catches up
with its still running sibling, which provided inspiration
for this complication’s French name, “rattrapante,”
which means to “catch up.”
It is commonly known that the most challenging
complication to craft is the minute repeater, a watch
that plays the time in hours, quarters and minutes on
wire gongs. However, while many think the tourbillon is
the second most challenging watch to fabricate, experts
know that this is actually the split seconds chronograph.
And the 5004 was no exception.
Says Philippe Stern, “The problem was that the
Lemania 2310, or CH 27-70, was never intended to
be a split seconds chronograph. We had two major
challenges. The first was the pinion for all the hands —
hours, minutes, chronograph seconds and split seconds
— had to be made even longer and we were really
stretching the limits of what was possible. Even [with]
the slightest mistake, it was easy to bend this pinion.
And second thing was that the CH 27 would experience
rattrapante drag each time the split seconds function
was activated.”
What is rattrapante drag? What allows the split
seconds to catch up with the running chronograph
seconds hand so quickly and effectively is a minute ruby
roller attached to an arm and loaded with a spring. This
FEATURE 135

Patek Philippe ref.
5004P platinum
split second
chronograph
wristwatch
with perpetual
calendar with
diamond hour
markers (Image:
Phillips.com)
ruby rolls around the circumference of a heartshaped
reset cam attached to the chronograph
wheel. When you press the split seconds
button, a mighty pincer-like brake stops the
split seconds wheel. But at the same time, the
roller is tracing the shape of the reset cam the
whole time, under the load of the spring, so that
the moment the split seconds wheel is released
it can jump back to the correct position. The
problem is that the force exerted on the heart
cam by the jeweled roller can cause the entire
chronograph mechanism to slow down or even
stop. This is what is known as the dreaded
rattrapante drag.
Patek’s solution to this issue was both
beautiful and ingenious. They created a
second mechanism known as an isolator, that
sits on top of the split seconds brake. When
the function is activated, the isolator lifts the
return lever off the heart cam so that there is no
pressure placed on it. When the split seconds
function is released, it pushes the lever back
into the heart cam so that it instantly resets.
This mechanism is known amongst collectors
as the “Octopus,” because its shape resembles
that of the multi-tentacled sea creature. The
Octopus and its isolator system built on top of
the venerable Lemania 2320 is a masterpiece
of exquisite beauty as well as a marvel of
innovative engineering.
ISOLATOR SYSTEM IN THE PATEK PHILIPPE REF. 5004
The isolator for the split seconds lever relies on an isolator wheel that is driven by an octopus wheel (O) (isolator wheel/split seconds spring wheel) on the split seconds
column wheel and uncouples the split seconds lever as soon as the split seconds clamp (C) closes. Because the octopus wheel consistently rotates in the same
direction, it always has to be returned to its home position together with the split seconds lever; this is done by the isolator wheel spring as soon as the split seconds
clamp opens again
136 FEATURE

BREGUET SPLIT SECONDS REF. 3947 AND 5947
The creation of the Patek 5004 is also interesting in that
over at Breguet, a split seconds version of the Lemania
2320 had also been created, making these the only two
brands to achieve this lofty accomplishment. What is even
more amazing is that this Breguet movement also featured
an isolator mechanism to eliminate rattrapante drag.
As I’ve mentioned, Breguet was purchased by Nicolas
Hayek in 1999. Shortly after, they started creating some
very beautiful Classique Chronographs with massive
hand-guillochéd gold dials using the Lemania 2320 (their
version has 24 jewels). By this time, the Breguet team
would have had full visibility into the 5004 and its use of
the Octopus isolator mechanism. As they approached
the creation of their own split seconds chronographs, the
references 3947 and 5947, it must have dawned on them
that they, too, would need an isolator mechanism. And as
it just so happened, they already had one.
Not at Lemania but at Frédéric Piguet, which they
had purchased along with Blancpain in 1992 for 60
million Swiss francs. When it comes to automatic
chronograph movements, the Frédéric Piguet 1185
could very well be the greatest. It was slimmer than the
rest, column-wheel activated and was the first Swiss
luxury movement to feature a vertical clutch, which
means that the chronograph could be left running
indefinitely with no effect on accuracy. It was first
launched in the manual wind 1180 in 1987, and then
shortly after, in the automatic version 1185. In 1988,
Frédéric Piguet stunned the world with a split seconds
version in the manual wind 1181 and automatic 1186.
Key to the reliable function of this watch was the isolator
mechanism for the split seconds, which is the very first
system of this kind used on any serially produced watch.
Looking at the 535N of the beautiful Breguet
split seconds chronograph reference 5947, you can
immediately see the isolator mechanism sitting on
top of the split seconds brake and wheel. On further
examination, it appears that this isolator mechanism is
largely inspired by the one used in the Frédéric Piguet
1181/1186. Understanding the great Nick Hayek’s
love for consolidation and cross-brand intellectual
pollination, it seems likely that he used the best of one of
his brands to find a solution for the other.
For this reason, I find the Breguet 5947 to be one
of the most significant watches in modern horological
history, as a tribute not just to a great movement, but
also to the creative inventiveness of the Swatch Group.
This is something they don’t talk about openly but it
clearly exists in spades and is something very much
carried on by Hayek’s grandson, Marc Hayek. Also,
as they hover around the USD 30,000 range in the
secondary market, the Breguet 5947s are to me some
of the best values around for a truly magnificent split
seconds chronograph. Note that the 3947 has its split
seconds pusher on the upper left of the case while the
5947’s is co-axial with the crown.
The Breguet 3947
split seconds
chronograph is
particularly easy
to identify with its
oval-shaped split
pusher positioned
at 10 o'clock of the
case of the watch;
the timepiece
was powered by
the cal. 533N
(Image: catalog.
antiquorum.swiss)
The Breguet 5947
split seconds
chronograph, as
opposed to the 3947,
has its split pusher
incorporated into its
crown; the timepiece
is powered by the
cal. 535N (Image:
Christies.com)
The location of the isolator
mechanism on the cal. 535N
(Image: Christies.com)
FEATURE 137

(From left) The caseback views of the Vacheron
Constantin cal. 1142, Patek Philippe cal. CH 27-70,
Breguet cal. 533.3 and Roger Dubuis cal. RD56
Comparing Lemania-Based Movements
Here, we compare four Lemania-based movements: the Patek Philippe
caliber CH 27-70, Vacheron Constantin caliber 1142, Breguet caliber
533.3 and Roger Dubuis caliber RD56.
FREQUENCY
Both the Patek and Roger Dubuis calibers run at 18,000vph or 2.5Hz. The
calibers from Breguet and Vacheron Constantin run at 21,600vph or 3Hz.
SWAN NECK VS FREE SPRUNG
All movements, save the Patek CH 27-70, used the swan-neck
regulator of the Lemania 2320. Note that when Vacheron Constantin
transitioned from the 1141 to the in-house caliber 1142, they also
shifted from a swan-neck regulator to a free-sprung balance wheel.
GENEVA SEAL
The Vacheron Constantin 1142, Patek CH 27-70 and Roger Dubuis
RD56/65 all receive the Geneva Seal. One of my favorite elements
of the Vacheron movement is the Maltese cross-shaped cap for the
column wheel. Even though this is in high relief, I am going to assume
that it still qualifies as a “cap” as seen in the other Geneva Seal
watches. Note that the Vacheron calibers 1140
and 1141 were not Geneva Seal movements.
STYLE OF INTERMEDIATE BRIDGE
This is a funny name because it actually is the
bridge that holds the seconds wheel and the
minute counter wheel. You can distinguish this
because of the small heart cams that are used
to reset these two wheels and the reset levers
poised just beside them. This is the bridge that
holds down the wheel for the minute counter
and the all-important chronograph central
seconds wheel. Note that this bridge has been
the subject of a great deal of artistic expression
for different brands. The Patek bridge is
distinctly V-shaped. The Vacheron bridge is
somewhere between a V and Y shape. The Roger
Dubuis bridge is fully Y or wishbone-shaped.
The Omega 321 bridge is U-shaped. The
Breguet is somewhere between a U and a Y.
138 FEATURE

The intermediate bridge has inspired artistic expressions from the watch brands that have used the Lemania movement,
with each brand having its distinctive style for the bridge
Geneva Seal
Free-sprung balance
Geneva Seal
Free-sprung balance
Intermediate bridge
Intermediate bridge
The Vacheron Constantin caliber 1142
The Patek Philippe caliber CH 27-70 Q
Swan-neck regulator
Swan-neck regulator
Geneva Seal
Intermediate bridge
Intermediate bridge
The Breguet caliber 533.3
The Roger Dubuis caliber RD56
The Vacheron Constantin caliber 1142 has a frequency of 21,600vph
(3Hz), sports a free-sprung balance wheel and its intermediate bridge is a
mix of a V and Y
Intermediate bridge
The Patek Philippe caliber CH 27-70 Q has a frequency of 18,000vph
(2.5Hz), sports a free-sprung balance wheel and its intermediate bridge is
a distinct V
Free-sprung balance
The Breguet caliber 533.3 has a frequency of 21,600vph (3Hz), sports a
swan-neck regulator and its intermediate bridge is a mix of a U and Y
The Roger Dubuis caliber RD56 has a frequency of 18,000vph (2.5Hz),
sports a swan-neck regulator and its intermediate bridge is a distinct Y or
wishbone shape
The 2020 Omega calibre 321
The 2020 Omega calibre 321 has a frequency of 18,000vph (2.5Hz) and an
intermediate bridge that is U-shaped
FEATURE 139

Originsof the
Tudor Chronograph
Revolution looks back at the factors that
have shaped the unique identity of Tudor’s popular sports watch.
Words Ross Povey
140 FEATURE

What is the most famous Oyster-cased chronograph?
Most people will say it’s the mighty Daytona.
Rolex began using its iconic Oyster case for
chronographs in the late 1930s. If we trace back the lineage
of the three-register steel Oyster chronograph to its genesis,
then we would reach the reference 4048. Believed to be made
in less than 100 examples, all in steel, the reference 4048 was
a 12-hour timer in a 35mm steel case in one piece, known as
the monoblocco. But as this article is primarily about Tudor,
we should also take a look back at the beginning of the tworegister
Oyster chronographs.
The first two-register Oyster-cased chronograph was
reference 3481, a small 29mm steel watch. After this came
reference 3525, a 35mm chronograph with a 30-minute
chronograph function. Made in steel, yellow gold, rose gold
and in two-tone steel and gold combinations, when the
3525 was introduced in 1939, it was one of the very first
chronographs to make use of the Oyster case. The watches
used the screw-down case and the screw-down crown, but
Hans Wilsdorf’s Oyster case had only pump pushers, which
at the time were perfect for the job. It would be another 25
years before the screw-down pushers became a reality and
made the watches truly waterproof.
The first actual sports chronograph came in 1963 in the
guise of the reference 6239. Having been through a couple
of decades of pre-Daytonas, it was in 1963 that the star was
born. The 6239 was seen as an actual sports watch due to its
36mm steel case and bezel ring in the form of a tachymeter. The
watches, however, still featured pump pushers and so were not
blessed with the word “Oyster” on the dial; this also applied
to the 6241 with black plastic tachymeter as well as references
6262 and 6264.
In fact, it wasn’t until 1965 and the introduction of the
reference 6240 that the Daytona received the screw-down
pushers that would truly make the watch waterproof. In 1969,
the references 6263 (black plastic bezel) and 6265 (steel
bezel) were introduced, and both were forever given the Oyster
nomenclature. The watches were manual wind and had 36mm
cases, and whilst they are incredibly sought after now, at the
time they were not popular and languished with dealers for
years sometimes. Maybe a bigger case would be better and a
more striking look? Step forward, Tudor…
(From left) A three-register Oyster Chronograph reference 4080; a small 29mm reference 3481; a monoblocco reference 3525 (Credits: C Matarelli, Christies & L Garbati)
FEATURE 141

(Clockwise from
right) A Singer
chronograph
dial proposal
from the late
1960s in white;
Ablackversion
of the proposed
dial design; A
reference 7031
chronograph
fitted with the
black Singer dial
(credits: RPR,
RPR & Phillips)
TESTING, ONE, TWO, THREE
The 1960s and ’70s were the era of cool racing chronos in
eye-catching hues and interesting dial designs. Arguably, now,
the most iconic and colorful dials were the exotic dials used in
the Daytonas — what we now know as “Paul Newman” dials.
The 1960s was long before Rolex’s current vertical integration
and, as such, the brand relied on different companies to
manufacture the various components of its watches. The
dials were largely made by Singer and, as part of this working
relationship, Singer would periodically offer new design
concepts to its clients. We now have a pretty clear idea of how
this process worked as, a number of years ago, a collection
of Singer dial books was discovered that included design
proposals for a number of brands, the most interesting of which
were dial suggestions for Rolex and Tudor.
During the 1950s and ’60s, Tudor had grown in popularity
and reputation as a high quality watch commensurate with Hans
Wilsdorf’s vision for it to have all the quality hallmarks of a
Rolex at a more accessible price point. And, by and large, it had
toed the party line and behaved itself, with a respectful line of
superb Submariners and classic Oyster watches with some very
interesting yet classic dials. In 1970, though, the brand truly
showed its colors with the launch of the chronograph. And it
was the robust, of-the-time-looking, waterproof chronograph
that the Daytona simply wasn’t. A strong 40mm Oyster case,
with square crown guards and screw-down pushers made it
a true sports watch that was both cool and current in equal
measure. This was also down to the dial and hands design that
was striking in its use of vivid orange against a canvas of freshlooking
grey with black accents. This use of color had always
been part of the plan as the dial studies found in the Singer
folders demonstrate.
1969 was an important year for Tudor as it dropped the
rose in favor of the shield. With the introduction of the shield
also came a new font for Tudor. The main font seen during the
1960s was calligraphy-esque and sat beneath the Tudor rose.
The new shield along with a bolder and squarer font signalled a
move by the brand to make more robust and technical watches.
For the Submariner line, this was the 7016 (no date) and the
introduction of the Submariner Date reference 7021. Both
models featured a new dial with its own identity of square hour
makers and “Snowflake” hands. And then came the vibrant blue
color, again marking Tudor out as a brand that was different
and unafraid of pushing the boundaries. We can assume that
Tudor had been planning a colorful chrono for a number of
years as the dial proposals for Tudor were eye-catching designs
with flashes of red. It’s interesting to note that the rose-era
script was used on these dials and so, they represent something
of an oddity as Tudor never released a chrono with the old script
on the dial.
142 FEATURE

These dials have red accents on the outer markers and a
(roughly) 10-minute section on the minutes counter. These
Singer test dials were often quite crude in execution, as we
can see on other examples such as the Yacht-Master monocounter
dial that exists. I believe they were to give an idea of
color palettes and general ideas, almost like quick sketches.
Interestingly, the black dial shown here was sold by Phillips in
2017 together with a reference 7032, for CHF 93,750. That’s a
serious premium!
THE ‘HOMEPLATE’
The actual watch that Tudor launched was vastly different to the
rejected test dials, and it has become one of the most instantly
recognizable vintage chronographs in existence. Tudor
unveiled the 7000-series watch with the references 7031 and
7032 in 1970, and it was a striking watch indeed. As I alluded
to earlier, the case was and is important. Tudor offered the
watch in a 40mm case, which was more akin to watches such
as the Submariner and Sea-Dweller, and not chronographs.
The crown guards were square, like the ones seen on very early
7928 Submariners from the late 1950s, and the watches were
fitted with large 7mm Twinlock winding crowns. Unlike the
Daytona, the watches also had a date feature, the aperture of
which sat beneath a horizontally placed cyclops on the crystal at
six o’clock. References 7031 and 7032 were essentially identical
with the only difference being the bezel. The 7031 featured a
black plastic tachymeter bezel much like the bezel on the 6263
Daytona. The 7032 featured an all-stainless-steel tachymeter.
This system was to be used for the next 30 years to differentiate
Tudor chronograph models.
The most striking aspect of these first-series chronos
were the dials. Tudor opted for a design that was both bright
and unusual in its use of detail. The most notable feature of
the 7000 series watch was the shape of the hour markers,
which were like the home plate on a baseball field. This led
to collectors giving the watch its well-known nickname the
“Homeplate”. The main color for the dial was grey, with a black
outer track that had five-second numerals in bright orange.
The running seconds counter and 45-minute counter were
black, with the latter having a bright orange triangle in the five
to 10-minute portion. The stopwatch center seconds hand was
also bright orange.
There was also a black-dialled version which is exceedingly
rare. I would estimate that less than a dozen examples are known
of these black version, and it is a commonly held belief that these
black dials were service replacements. It is quite common to
see “spotting” on the grey areas of the Homeplate dials, and I
expect that Tudor provided the more robust black versions to
service centres, in the same way they did with blue Snowflake
Submariner dials when the black ones rotted. I know of only a
couple that have come from original owners, who were adamant
that they were bought in this configuration. Again, maybe
authorised dealers offered the black as an option to preferred
clients. Either way, they are the holy grail for Tudor collectors.
(Clockwise from left)
The Homeplate era:
Reference 7031 in
original box; A period
advertisement;
Reference 7032 with
black dial
FEATURE 143

THE ‘MONTE CARLO’
Following hot on the heels of the first-series Homeplate
chronographs of 1970, Tudor launched the second series of
chronographs in 1971. The flamboyant use of color that marked
out the Homeplates was continued with vivid tones of orange
and blue-dialled watches now complementing the grey and
orange color scheme that was first seen on the Homeplates.
Compared to other watches in the Tudor and Rolex lineups,
these watches were both big at 40mm and eye-catching in their
execution.
In the second series of chronographs, the homeplate
markers were replaced with more conventional rectangleshaped
lume plots. The use of bright orange remained with
eye-catching elements both on the chronograph registers and
on the outer seconds markers. The watches became known by
collectors as “Monte Carlos”, as the dials resembled the roulette
tables of the famous casinos of Monaco’s famous district.
The Homeplates were fitted with either a steel or black
plastic tachymeter bezel. Tudor offered a third bezel variation
in the second series, having experimented with the 12-hour
bi-directional rotating bezel on the prototype 7033. The Monte
Carlo chronos were available in three references: 7149, with
fixed plastic tachymeter bezel; 7159, with fixed steel tachymeter
bezel; and 7169, with rotating 12-hour bezel.
The elongated triangular orange stopwatch seconds hand
was carried over from the Homeplate as well as the presence of
two subdials and date aperture at six o’clock. The introduction
of the blue element on some watches necessitated a blue acrylic
tachymeter bezel instead of black on the 7149s and a blue 12-
hour bezel insert on the 7169.
A family resemblence
— an original Tudor
Monte Carlo next to the
Heritage Chronograph
A second series Monte Carlo chronograph reference 7159 with steel bezel
The cases of both the first- and second-series chronographs
remained largely unchanged, with the cool square-shaped
crown guards and large-size 40mm diameter. The Monte
Carlos remained in the Tudor catalogue until approximately
1977. The biggest non-visual change was, however, the
improved movement. The Homeplates
were equipped with the Valjoux calibre
7734 which had been a good workhorse
for the watches. The second series
chronos housed the Valjoux calibre 234.
This was a high-frequency movement
with improved accuracy that also had
upgrades to the column wheel and clutch.
In 2013, Tudor followed the original
Heritage Chrono that was largely based
on the Homeplate with a second Heritage
Chrono — the Blue. The second version
was very heavily based on the 7169 Monte
Carlo. The Heritage edition was housed
in the 42mm case with sapphire crystal
and had a blue 12-hour rotating bezel. I
have to say that this is one of my favorite
Tudor Heritage models, especially when
worn on the blue, orange and white
fabric strap that has become a trademark
of Tudor’s over the past decade.
Anybody looking for vintage vibes but in
a modern watch that can be worn every
day — look no further!
144 FEATURE

of a third chronograph register on the dial — an hour indicator.
The previous two series, the Homeplates and Monte Carlos,
were effectively 45-minute stopwatches, but the new watches
could measure much longer periods of time.
The first Big Block watches were the 9000 series with their
references differentiated by the bezel type. The 9000 series
watches were references: 9420, with plastic tachymeter bezel;
9421, with 12-hour calibrated bi-directional bezel; 9430, with
steel tachymeter bezel.
All vintage Tudor chronographs featured a date and
“Oysterdate” appeared on all the dials going back to the
Homeplate watches in 1970. The third series chronos were also
Oysterdates, but very early dials had the words “Chrono Time”
or “Automatic — Chrono Time” in an arc over the bottom
chrono register.
The original Big
Block Exotic dial
reference 9430
THE ‘BIG BLOCK’
In 1976, the House of Wilsdorf launched its first automatic
chronograph. And it wasn’t a Rolex, it was a Tudor self-winding
chronograph, a full 12 years before Rolex introduced their
first automatic Daytona, the Zenith-powered 16500 series,
in 1988. This was a real coup for Tudor and put them ahead of
other chronograph manufacturers of the 1970s. In fact, it was
this automatic movement that led to the watch’s nickname.
The rotor and auto-wind mechanism of the movement meant
that Tudor needed to design a new watch case that was deeper,
hence the collector term “Big Block”. A second aesthetic
change that occurred with the Big Block was the introduction
THE ‘EXOTIC DIAL’
Anybody with even a passing interest in vintage Rolex and Tudor
watches will be aware of the importance of the “Exotic Dial”
chronographs. In Rolex terms, it is the Paul Newman and with
Tudor, the Homeplates and Monte Carlos. Tudor continued to
produce exotic dials that picked up where the Monte Carlos had
left off. Collectors also refer to these dials as “Big Block Monte
Carlos” or “Exotic Big Blocks”. There were two variations of
Big Block Monte Carlo dials — a version with painted hour
markers that were very reminiscent of the 7100-series watches,
and a version with applied metal hour markers. The dials with
painted hour markers were available in two colorways — grey/
black/orange and grey/blue/orange.
Both dial colors were available in all three references.
The black version was always teamed with a black tachymeter
or 12-hour bezel, and the blue dials with blue tachymeter
bezels. These watches are now very rare and are sought after
by collectors, especially the blue 9420. The dials with applied
metal hour markers were only produced in black, which
featured white subdials and orange numbers on the outer
minute track. This dial was only featured in two references —
the 9420 watch (with a black plastic tachymeter bezel) and the
9430 (with stainless steel tachymeter bezel).
In the late 1980s, Tudor replaced the 94300 series watches
with the 79100 series. These watches retained the successful
Big Block case; however, these watches were only available with
the two-color, non-exotic dial configuration. As with the 9400
series, there were three references which were all differentiated
by their bezel type: 79160, with black plastic tachymeter bezel;
79170, with black graduated 12-hour bi-directional bezel; and
79180, with steel tachymeter bezel.
By the time the 79100 Big Block series was released, the
dials all featured “Oysterdate” under the date window and
“Automatic — Chrono Time” above the bottom chronograph
register. These watches are an important chapter in the
Tudor story as a demonstration of both Tudor’s freedom to
experiment with more exotic and playful designs, and also the
fact that they were the first automatic chronographs out of the
Rolex camp. What’s not to love?
FEATURE 145

THE PRINCE CHRONO
In 1995 Tudor launched the new Prince chronograph. Up
until this point the cases of the Tudor chronos had been quite
deep and flat sided — a true “presence” on the wrist. The
fourth series witnessed a complete redesign of the case. Gone
were the flat sides and sharp edges, and instead a softer case
was utilized that was very similar to its stable mate the Rolex
Daytona. This new sleek aesthetic was further enhanced by
the introduction of a sapphire crystal, which accentuated the
lower profile of the watch on the wrist. The previous plastic
bezels were problematic in that they were delicate and could
crack quite easily. In the new series of watches the 79260 had
an aluminum tachymeter insert in the bezel. There were three
watches available, the reference number referring to the bezel
type. They were 79260, with black aluminum fixed tachymeter
bezel; 79270, with black aluminum rotating 12-hour bezel; and
79280, with polished steel fixed tachymeter bezel.
A Big Block
reference 79170
A Big Block
reference 79280
146 FEATURE

A trio of fourth series Small
Blocks reference 79260. Spot
the TIGER in the middle!
As per their predecessors, the Big Blocks, the new
79200 series watches were initially available on steel
Oyster bracelets, but Tudor’s interpretation of the Jubilee
bracelet eventually became the default bracelet as the
Oyster was faded out. It wasn’t just the Oyster bracelet
that was phased out – the word Oyster disappeared from
the dial and was replaced with “PRINCE”. During the
first couple of transitional years, the use of Rolex branded
winding crowns and casebacks were also phased out in
favor of Tudor versions. The Prince Dates were available
with dials in a kaleidoscope of colors, many of which came
with matching leather straps – I think of them as Tudor
Beaches, much like the limited Rolex Daytona beach
edition from 2000! The dial options were supplemented
with versions that had painted Arabic hour markers instead
of the applied baton markers. Tudor’s tie-in with brand
ambassador Tiger Woods led to the golfer’s name being
used on some dials, which are known by collectors
as Tudor Tigers.
One totally new aspect to the fourth series was the
use of a leather strap and Tudor deployant buckle. The
watches sold on leather straps were fitted with unique
half-endlink to create a neat flush-fit between the case
and strap. The concept had been used before on precious
metal Daytonas, which had integrated half-endlinks.
The Tudors’ half-endlinks were, however, removable
thus allowing the watch to be fitted with a bracelet if the
owner so wished.
Something of a ‘sleeping giant’, these fourth series
chronos are picking up as collectors are beginning to
appreciate them for their modern aesthetic and super
high build quality. They are also beginning to appear in the
major auctions, so I would head over to our online store
right now, to grab one whilst you still can!
FEATURE 147

Milestone Military Chronographs
As service-issue chronographs continue to experience an
inexorablegrowthininterest,wetakealookattheorigins
and unusual specs of some of the finest, most important
pilot’s chronographs in military history.
Words Cheryl Chia
The Dodane
Type 21
The history and development of the wristwatch are
inextricably tethered to the military. While the
Great War cemented the appeal and credibility of
wristwatches among men, it was the Second World War that
financed some of the greatest developments in watchmaking.
As aviation became a critical part of modern warfare —
much of WWII, in fact, took place in the skies — wristwatches
became essential in managing new technologies and deploying
strategies, paving the way for some of the 20th century’s most
admirable and desirable watches.
With the coming of the war, various types of watches
created with the pilot in mind came into being, some more
impactful than others. The British Royal Air Force (RAF)
was issued with the legendary IWC Mark 11 while across the
Atlantic, the U.S. Army Air Forces were equipped with the
comparatively prosaic A-11, often referred to as “the watch
that won the war.”
However, arguably the most fascinating and highly spec’d
variety of pilot’s watches, particularly from a mechanical
standpoint, were the chronographs, which enabled pilots to
make rapid calculations and conduct precise timing. While
most of them went undervalued for many years, they are —
pardon the pun — flying high at the moment, not least because
they are hitting nails on the head aesthetically or the irony
inherent in how such small, delicate mechanisms of that time
could be built for battle.
FEATURE 149

THE FLIEGER CHRONOGRAPH
It all began with the Germans, who were said to be the
only combatants during the Second World War to be
strapped with proper stopwatch capabilities.
The chronographs made for the Luftwaffe are
no doubt among the most important WWII-era
watches, being highly sophisticated both inside and
out, and to which the more famous Type 20 owes
much of its design.
Hanhart in the Black Forest and Tutima (or
UROFA-UFAG as it was known) in Glashütte
supplied pilot’s chronographs to the Luftwaffe from
1938 and 1941 respectively. The watches’ defining
feature was the flyback function, which was a nascent
technical accomplishment that played a crucial role
(Below, from left) Hanhart’s dual-button chronograph with the legendary flyback calibre 41;
The monopusher calibre 40 version without a flyback mechanism
in cockpit functionality. Invented by Longines just
a few years prior in 1936, this simple yet efficient
mechanism offered a considerable advantage as
it allowed pilots to quickly reset and restart their
watches for dead reckoning navigation.
Several versions of the watch were made by
both companies, but the archetypal variant was the
dual-button flyback chronograph that was powered
by the Hanhart cal. 41 (1939) or the Tutima cal. 59
(1941). Hanhart also produced a version using
the monopusher cal. 40 (1938) without a flyback
mechanism. Mechanically speaking, the most
apparent difference in a flyback chronograph would
be the lack of a tab on the reset hammer which allows
the chronograph to be reset while running. Upon
reset, a separate lever disengages the chronograph.
Then once the pusher is released, the lever is released,
and a spring then pushes the gear train to engage the
chronograph seconds once again.
These chronographs were of a classical column
wheel design and notably, were fitted with an Incabloc
shock protection for the balance assembly. They
differed aesthetically from the Type 20 in their
nickel-plated brass cases, knurled bezel with a red
marker, cathedral hands as well as the occasional redcoated
pusher. The Hanhart chronographs with the
cal. 41 in particular had an asymmetric positioning of
their pushers for ease of operation.
Alas, military watches, by their very nature, were
used and abused, and these chronographs are rarely
found in good condition also due to their case material.
Their historical significance, however, is undeniable.
150 FEATURE

(Clockwise from left) A Breguet Type 20 from 1954 with a “big eye”
15-minute counter; Vixa Type 20 made by Hanhart; Breguet Type XX
in yellow gold that sold at Phillips for CHF200,000 in 2018
THE TYPE 20
Following the Second World War, as part of
reparations to France, Hanhart went on to produce
Type 20 watches for the French Air Force under the
name Vixa. It was one of at least seven firms who
produced these Type 20 chronographs, along with
Mathey-Tissot, Airain, Auricoste, Seliva Chronofixe,
Dodane, and of course, Breguet whose Type 20s are
the most coveted today.
The specifications are conventionally reckoned to
include a sub-38mm case with a screw-in back and
thickness of not more than 14mm, accuracy of within
eight seconds a day, and most importantly, a flyback
chronograph with a start-stop function that at the
point of issue would work reliably at least 300 times.
But beyond that, they varied in terms of counters,
hands, bezels, crown sizes and shapes.
Mathey-Tissot, who delivered chronograph
wristwatches to the U.S. Army’s Corps of Engineers
during the First World War, was subcontracted to
produce the Type 20 for Breguet. It is believed that
approximately 2,000 Type 20 chronographs were
delivered by Breguet in the 1950s. They were equipped
with the Valjoux 222. Later versions sold to the civilian
market were powered by the 222, 225, 235 and 720.
Notably, the Breguet Type 20s produced for the
French Air Force differed from those made for the
navy in that it had a soft-iron cage to protect the
movement from magnetism. Additionally, they also
featured a 30-minute counter while the navy versions
had an extra large, “big eye” 15-minute counters.
As manufacturing costs rose, the French
government discontinued its use. However, Breguet
began selling these watches to the general public with
their name on the dial. In contrast to the original,
military-issue versions, the watches are identified by
the model name in Roman numerals — Type XX.
It is believed that Breguet produced approximately
2,000 Type XX for the civilian market, out of which,
only three were made in yellow gold. In 2018, one
particular gold example was sold at Phillips for
CHF200,000.
FEATURE 151

(Clockwise from
top left) A fine
example of a RAF
Lemania Series 3
with a distinctive
asymmetric case to
protect the crown
and pusher (Image:
Shuck the Oyster);
The Lemania 2220
movement with an
oscillating pinion
visible on the left next
to the minute recorder
wheel (Image:
watchguy.co.uk);
Another example
of the RAF Lemania
Series 3 on the wrist
RAF LEMANIA
The most famous military watch on the other side of
the English Channel is the legendary IWC Mark 11
issued to the British RAF. But there was also an
interesting monopusher chronograph developed for
issue to the UK Ministry of Defence (MoD) from the
late 1940s to 1970s by Lemania.
These chronographs were divided into three
series, with the most popular being the third series,
which had a distinctive asymmetric case designed to
protect the crown and pusher. They were issued to
both the RAF and the Fleet Arm of the Royal Navy,
and thus had familiar design codes characteristic of
pilot’s watches such as a large black dial with Arabic
numerals, luminous hands and markers.
Most notably, inside the watch was the impressively
robust column wheel Lemania 2220, which unlike
that preceding cal. 15CHT that powered the earlier
series, featured an Incabloc shock protection system
for the balance staff. Additionally, these Lemania
movements were also unusual in that instead of having
a finger mounted on the chronograph seconds wheel
to advance the minutes every 60 seconds, they had
an oscillating pinion that couple the second wheel of
the gear train to the chronograph minutes when the
chronograph is engaged. Having a separate system like
this would in theory minimize the load on the gear train
as it eliminates that jump. It creates a continuously
sweeping motion instead of the semi-instantaneous
minutes found in regular chronographs.
152 FEATURE

A. CAIRELLI CP-1 AND CP-2
Among some of the most highly prized military chronographs today are
the CP-1 and CP-2 (Cronometro da Polso Type 1 and 2) developed
for the Aeronautica Militare Italiana (AMI), or Italian Air Force in
the 1960s through the 1970s, and sold by Roman retailer A. Cairelli.
However, the story of the CP-1/CP-2 chronograph began with an even
more remarkable watch — the Type HA-1, an extremely rare, oversized
split seconds chronograph from 1953 made by Universal Genève.
Measuring 44.5mm wide, the watch is massive even by today’s
standards and features a white 24-hour dial with a 16-minute counter for
pilots to calculate the hour angle. Crucially, the watch is powered by the
Valjoux 55 VBR, the same split seconds movement in the legendary Rolex
ref. 4113. Due to its contemporary dimensions, extraordinary movement
and rarity, prices for this are now north of CHF150,000.
The HA-1 was replaced by the CP-1 produced by Leonidas and later
the CP-2 by Universal Genève, Zenith and once again, Leonidas. The
two generations differed in size: the CP-1 was 39mm wide while the
CP-2 was 43mm. Both, like the HA-1, were powered by movements
originally designed for pocket watches, hence their dimensions. The
CP-1 was powered by the Valjoux 22-2 movement with flyback and
hacking functions.
The CP-2 was characterized by a distinctively wide, black bezel
that is hugely reminiscent of the Heuer Bund chronograph. The Zenith
watches were powered by the cal. 146 DP (not a flyback) produced by
chronograph specialist, Martel, which was the brand acquired in the
late 1950s. The Leonidas CP-2 was powered by the
Valjoux cal. 222, the same movement used in the
Breguet Type 20. The Universal Genève version, on
the other hand, utilized the cal. 265P, but production
is said to be limited due to costs.
All CP-2s featured a three-part case with screwdown
caseback, an inner dust cover, a black dial
illuminated with tritium, a bi-compax chronograph
layout and an outer railroad track.
In recent times, the CP-2 watches produced by Zenith
have fetched sky-high prices on the vintage market.
(Clockwise from left) The Universal HA-1 that sold for CHF197,000
at Phillips in 2016; The Leonidas CP-2, predecessor of the Heuer
Bundeswehr; A Zenith CP-2 from circa 1970 (Images: Phillips)

BUNDESWEHR CHRONOGRAPHS
From the early 1960s to the early 1970s, Heuer,
which acquired Leonidas in 1964, produced the
1550 SG flyback chronograph for the West German
Federal Defense Force, or Bundeswehr. Though it is
manifestly designed as a pilot’s watch, it was made
to conform to the specifications of other service
branches as well.
The most intriguing and also the rarest version is
the ref. 1551 SGSZ “Sternzeit Reguliert” chronograph
made for the artillery forces. While it looks almost
identical to the other Bund watches, the movement
is actually regulated for sidereal time — meaning it
runs approximately four minutes faster a day. This
is because the artillery forces used sidereal time
to determine true north. Thus, to avoid mistakes,
“Sternzeit Reguliert” was printed on the dial.
Like its predecessor the Leonidas CP-2,
the Heuer Bundeswehr is a well-proportioned,
contemporary-sized chronograph with a strikingly
wide, black-coated rotating bezel and oversized
subdials. They were powered by the flyback Valjoux
222 and later, 230 movements. One quirk was that the
case was constructed such that the movement loads
from the front. The bezel and crystal are attached to
the inner case with four screws visible on the back.
The watches were fitted with a Bund-style leather
cuff strap, which was meant to protect the pilot’s skin
against extreme temperatures.
In the 1980s, Sinn was engaged to service these
Heuer watches. At the same time, a surplus of these
watches were also acquired and refurbished by the
brand, which used a Sinn-branded replacement dial
and sold it to civilians.
While there are numerous versions of the watch,
they vary superficially in terms of logo and markings.
The earlier radioactive substance was replaced by
tritium, hence the dials were marked with “3H,”
an abbreviation for Hydrogen-3, the chemical
compound for the luminous material. Some versions
of the dial included a small “T” above the six o’clock
index to denote the use of tritium.
Today, the Heuer Bundeswehr, with the exception
of the “Sternzeit Reguliert” version, can be had
for CHF5,000 to 10,000, which is still a bargain
considering its military provenance, contemporary
good looks and the superb flyback movement within.
(From top) The
“3H” 1550 SG
Bundeswehr; The
Heuer ref. 1551 SGSZ
“Sternzeit Reguliert”
with a movement
that is regulated for
sidereal time (Image:
Phillips)
154 FEATURE

The Lemania 5100
with an anachronistic
pillar-type construction.
The vertical clutch
next to the escape
wheel is integrated with
the fourth wheel and
drives the chronograph
seconds wheel above
directly (Image:
watchguy.co.uk)
PORSCHE DESIGN CHRONOGRAPH
One of the most iconic yet underrated military
watches of the 1980s was the Porsche Design
Chronograph 1 made by Swiss military watch supplier,
Orfina. The watch was originally designed for sale to
the public in 1972 by Porsche before it was adopted by
various air forces around the world.
Importantly, the ingenuity of its aesthetic
design and movement was a sharp reflection of its
time as the Quartz Crisis prompted many inspiring
breakthroughs across the board as a last hurrah. The
case was ovoid in shape paired with a bracelet, but the
key feature was its uniform, matte black finish. The
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 was the world’s first
all-black watch achieved with a surface treatment
then only used on military aircraft — physical vapor
deposition (PVD).
The watch was first introduced with a Valjoux
7750 movement, which was eventually replaced by the
incredibly robust Lemania 5100 a couple of years later.
In contrast to the pioneering automatic chronographs
of 1969, these movements were designed with the
implications of the crisis in mind, and reflected a
starkly different approach to engineering in which
doing the most with the simplest, cheapest and fewest
components was considered a virtue.
Though both were cam-switch chronographs, they
were worlds apart in terms of construction. While the
Valjoux 7750 relied on an oscillating pinion to couple
the fourth wheel of the movement to the chronograph
seconds, the Lemania 5100 had a vertical clutch
integrated with the fourth wheel, which drives the
chronograph seconds wheel above directly.
(Below from left)
An example of a
military version
with a 12-hour
scale instead of
atachymeter
to enhance
readability in a
cockpit (Image: A
Collected Man);
Orfina chronograph
by Porsche Design
driven by the
Valjoux 7750
(Image: Christie’s)
As a result, the Lemania 5100 had excellent
shock resistance in contrast to horizontally coupled
movements of the time, wherein the chronograph
seconds hand was prone to stopping when subject
to shocks. Furthermore, the Lemania 5100 had an
unusual pillar-type architecture which significantly
reduced construction costs as the parts were able to
be stamped instead of having the baseplate milled to
hold all the gears inside. On top of that, parts were
made of low-friction, shock-absorbent materials
such as nylon and Delrin plastic.
The Lemania 5100 was easily distinguished on the
dial side by a central minute hand mounted co-axially
to the chronograph seconds hand.
While the civilian versions were equipped with
a mix of both Valjoux and Lemania movements, all
watches made for the military were equipped with
the Lemania 5100. In these versions, the Orfina logo
on the dial was replaced by the word “military” while
the minute counter hand is blacked out with a red
tip. Today, these watches are becoming increasingly
collectible, though the military versions are naturally
harder to come by in good condition as the PVD
coating wears off with heavy usage. But all in, the
significance of this watch reaches far beyond its
military provenance, along with the fact that it was
designed by the genius behind the Porsche 911.
FEATURE 155

TOP GUNS
Pilot’s watches are a popular genre, and the German “flieger” is perhaps one of its most sought-after styles.
Hereare10fliegerchronographsthatflyundertheradar.
Words Bhanu Chopra
As the aviation industry evolved, so did the pilot’s
watches. Innovations like integrated slide-rule
chronographs arose to meet the ever changing
needs for more and more complicated flight. The basic
characteristics remain standard hallmarks of a flieger
chronograph watch: large and highly legible dials,
luminosity coating for night flight, oversized crowns
for gloved grip, easy-to-operate chronograph function
and power reserve for longer flights.
These watches also feature anti-magnetic seals to
increase reliability and crystal technology for pressure
drops. While designed for flight, water resistance
is important for the potential of water landings. For
similar reasons, it is important for the movements of
pilot’s watches to be anti-shock, and their dials to be
protected by anti-glare technology and shatterproof
sapphire crystal.
From the simplest timekeeping tools in minimal
and legible dial to the most elaborate complications,
there are pilot’s watches to meet any aesthetic taste.
The symbolism of humanity’s far-reaching ambitions
to conquer the skies and the innovation of the tools
required to continue pushing the limits make a pilot’s
watch highly collectible.
156 FEATURE

SINN EZM 10 PILOT CHRONOGRAPH
In 1994, at the age of 80, Helmut Sinn decided to retire and
sell Sinn watch company to Lothar Schmidt. Mr. Schmidt,
an engineer by nature, evolved Sinn into a technological
leader within the watch industry. One great example of Sinn
engineering is the EZM 10 TESTAF Pilot Chronograph.
This mission timer meets the strict requirements for pilots
operating under visual flight rules (VFR) and instrument flight
rules (IFR).
The watch comes with a certificate of Technical Standard
for Pilot Watches, also known as TESTAF, released in 2012.
TESTAF ensures that a pilot’s watch meets all modern-day
requirements during flight operations in accordance with visual
and instrument flight rules, and is qualified for professional
use to the highest level. It was developed on the initiative of
Sinn and the Faculty of Aerospace Technology at the Aachen
University of Applied Sciences. Recently, an update to TESTAF
was published under the new German watch standard, DIN
8330 Horology — Pilot’s Watches.
The EZM 10 is 44mm in diameter and 15.6mm in height,
and weighs 95g (without strap) with a bead-blasted titanium
case. The case is treated with Sinn’s proprietary Tegiment
technology, essentially a process that raises the hardiness of
the case material, making it virtually scratch resistant. The
bi-directional pilot’s bezel has a 60-click mechanism, and
the bezel insert is made of sapphire crystal with luminescent
numbers for greater visibility. The watch case and bezel are
manufactured by Sächsische Uhrentechnologie Glashütte
(SUG), a subsidiary of Sinn.
Sinn’s technology, known as the D3-System, has the crown
and push-piece mounted directly to the case, providing reliable
protection from lateral knocks and the penetration of dust or
moisture. The pushers are coated with PVD with Tegiment
treatment, mostly to provide the case a uniform appearance.
With the combination of the D3-System and a screw-down
crown, the chronograph achieves a depth rating of 200 meters.
Other advanced technological features of the EZM 10 include
its ability to operate reliably in temperatures from as low as
−45°C to +80°C. Sinn’s Ar-Dehumidifying technology capsule
at eight o’clock serves to prevent micro-condensation. A capsule
is filled with copper sulphate, which absorbs moisture from the
air inside the case and traps it permanently. Copper sulphate
turns incrementally blue as its water content rises; the shade
of blue serves as an indicator of the drying capsule’s level of
saturation. Sinn goes a step further to fill the case with inert gas
to prevent moisture building up inside the case, and then using a
proprietary seal to reduce moisture infiltration into the case.
Sinn has developed the SZ01 movement to replicate the
functionality of Lemania’s 5100 movement by heavily modifying
the ETA/Valjoux 7750 with centrally mounted minute hand.
Like the Lemania 5100, for its movement, Sinn opts for the
24-hour subdial but positions this at three o’clock instead of
the former’s 12 o’clock. Finally, Sinn implements DIAPAL
technology in the movement, which is their lubricant-free
escapement system based on diamond-coated metal, rather
than the popular silicon-based escapement.
Retail Price: USD 5,680
FEATURE 157

GUINAND STARFIGHTER PILOT
CHRONOGRAPH
Starfighter Pilot is a modern homage
to the Heuer and Sinn Bundeswehr
chronographs. There is a direct link
between Sinn and Guinand watch
brands. Heuer supplied the Bundeswehr
chronograph to the West German Air
Force in 1967. Helmut Sinn gained a
contract to service the watches for the
German army and took the opportunity
to swap out the original Heuer dials
with a Sinn logo replacement. From
the mid-1960s to the 1990s, Guinand
manufactured a significant share
of watches for Sinn in Switzerland.
Eventually Mr. Sinn bought Guinand,
and after retiring from Sinn, he managed
the brand in Frankfurt.
In 2015, Matthias Klueh, an electrical
engineer by profession, purchased
Guinand from Helmut Sinn. As he took
stock of all the parts, he found a box of
Heuer dials in the spare parts inventory.
These dials fit perfectly into the
Guinand’s 42.6mm pilot’s watch case.
Mr. Klueh decided to produce a replica
of one of the bi-compax Heuer dials
(there were many variations), and thus the
Starfighter Pilot Chronograph was created
as a tribute to the legendary 1960s Heuer
Bundeswehr chronograph.
The Guinand Starfighter is a
contemporary take on the Heuer/
Sinn Bundeswehr, blending the design
elements of the historical icon with
modern features. The Starfighter name
was chosen after the Mach 2-capable
F-104 Starfighters, also known by the
Luftwaffe as the “Widow Maker.”
The Starfighter is 42.6mm in diameter
and 15.6mm in height, and weighs 95g
(without strap) with a bead-blasted
stainless steel case. The case is fitted with
a bi-directional pilot’s aluminum bezel
with luminescent pip inside the reference
triangle. The domed sapphire crystal
with anti-reflective coating on the inside
provides optimal readability. With a
screw-down crown that comes with flank
protection, and double O-ring seal, the
chronograph is water resistant up to 200
meters.
The Starfighter has a matte black dial,
and the hour numbers are coated with
“Grade X1” Super-LumiNova, which
according to the ISO 3157 standard will
extend the legibility by at least a factor of
1.6 in the long term. The recessed subdials
with beveled edges are reminiscent of the
historical Bundeswehr chronograph.
Guinand selected the Sellita SW510
automatic chronograph movement with
30-minute counter subdial and central
seconds. The Starfighter comes with a
striking pilot’s style cowhide leather strap,
made locally in the Frankfurt area.
Retail Price: From USD 1,985
158 FEATURE

Legendary Junghans J88
movement from 1950
JUNGHANS MEISTERPILOTCHRONOSCOPE
Even though Junghans is best known for its Bauhaus Max Bill timepieces, it has a
rich history of producing pilot’s chronographs for the German military. The Black
Forest-based company produced the legendary caliber J88 chronograph from 1950
until the mid-’60s, and after supplying the watches to the Bundeswehr, it later sold
them to the public. A combination of credible past and unique design elements lands
the Meister Pilots securely on the list of flieger chronographs flying under the radar.
The German Air Force pilots loved the ergonomic 12-edged bezel construction
since it was easy to operate, even with gloves. The dodecagonal bezel to this day
remains unique to Junghans’ pilot’s watches. In 2016, Junghans introduced a modern
homage to the model J88 called “Meister Pilot Chronoscope,” an oversized pilot’s
watch bearing the signature design elements of the original military chronograph.
The large 43.3mm steel case on Meister
Pilot has the recognizable bi-directional
rotating bezel that features 12 distinctive
concave notches — referencing the J88
chronograph of the 1950s. Another distinct
design element is the long oval-shaped
chronograph pushers, a feature not seen
very often on a pilot’s chronograph. The
diamond-shaped crown is not screwed
down; however, the pilot’s watch retains a
respectable 100-meter water resistance
rating. The convex shape of the caseback
and the curved lugs makes the sizable
chronograph comfortable to wear.
Junghans, known for its Bauhaus
aesthetics, keeps the dial minimal with
just the essential details. The Meister
Pilot has a bi-compax layout on the matte
black dial with large recessed subdials,
and easy-to-read numbers in bold font.
The slim central chronograph seconds
hand features a triangular tip along
with an elongated counterweight.
The Meister Pilot Chronoscope
is fitted with an ETA 2824-2 or Sellita
SW200-1 base automatic caliber, with
an additional Dubois-Dépraz 2030
chronograph module. The watch is
accompanied by a tapered pilot’s style strap
in calf leather with a solid steel pin buckle.
Retail Price: USD 2,495
FEATURE 159

TUTIMA M2 COASTLINE CHRONOGRAPH
The Tutima M2 Coastline Chronograph is a direct descendant of the 1980s NATO
chronograph. Tutima reference 798 was issued to the German Air Force in 1983
under strict specifications by the German Armed Forces’ central procurement
department. The following year, Tutima became an official supplier to the NATO
Air Force; thereafter, the watch was referred to as the NATO chronograph.
The NATO chronograph utilized the Lemania 5100 movement with
central chronograph seconds and minute hands. Lemania 5100 could
withstand 7G acceleration and massive shocks, and yet it could go without
servicing for long periods.
The M2 Coastline operates on an ETA/Valjoux-based movement
since Lemania was no longer an option, but then again civilian watches
do not have the stringent requirement of withstanding 7G acceleration!
The M2 Coastline is housed in a 43mm brushed titanium case, staying
true to the same size as the original NATO chronograph. Tutima made the
worthwhile enhancement of updating the integrated chronograph pushers with
grooved neoprene inlays. This makes operating the pushers much easier and
prevents accidental engagement of the chronograph. The screw-down crown has
protectors on either side, and the chronograph is water resistant up to 200 meters.
The M2 Coastline contains a modified ETA/Valjoux 7750 with a central
chronograph seconds hand, a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, and a 12-hour
counter at six o’clock. The running seconds has a telescopic-sight type of crosshair
motif at nine o’clock. Unlike the original NATO chronograph, it only has the date
display; the day display has been removed.
Retail Price: USD 3,300 on strap; USD 3,600 on titanium bracelet
DAMASKO DC57 CHRONOGRAPH
The DC57 is powered by a Valjoux 7750 movement with day and
Like Sinn, Damasko is the other German brand pushing the date indication. There is a DC57Si variant available as well, which
envelope of materials engineering in pilot’s chronographs. incorporates Damasko’s EPS spring into the movement. It is the
Damasko is a family-owned watch business based in
brand’s proprietary lubricant-free escapement made from silicon.
Barbing, a small village close to Regensburg, in Germany. The DC57 has a water resistance rating of up to 100 meters.
Case, crown and pushers are designed, engineered
and produced by Damasko in Barbing. The case is made of Retail Price: USD 1,856
bead-blasted stainless steel and completely nickel-free.
It is highly scratch resistant due to a special technique of
hardening called “ice hardening” (ice-hardened to 60
HRC or 710 HV) which is patented by Damasko. The case
is four times harder than any other steel currently used
in the watch industry. There is also an integrated antimagnetic
inner cage, anti-magnetic to 80,000 A/m.
The 40mm case of the DC57 is reminiscent of another
German watch, the Sinn 756. The explanation is easy:
Damasko made the case for the Sinn 756 until 2002/2003.
The screw-down and corrugated crown fits perfectly
between the crown guards. The crown system has also been
patented by Damasko. Crown and pushers are hardened,
and all gaskets are made of rugged Viton rubber.
The all-luminescent dial is coated with Super-LumiNova C1
white, and the numbers, markers, and the triangle at 12 o’clock
are painted matte black. All the hands, including chronograph
sub-counter hands, are painted in matte black. The crystal is a
flat sapphire crystal with highly scratch-resistant anti-reflective
coating on both the outside and the inside of the crystal.
160 FEATURE

BRELLUM PILOT POWER GAUGE CHRONOMETER
Brellum is a relatively new Swiss microbrand, founded in 2016 and
producing less than 300 watches per year. However, the brand has
a distinct advantage in founder Sébastien Muller. He’s a fourthgeneration
horologist, coming from a line of watchmakers that can
trace their work back to 1885 in Switzerland’s Jura region.
The Pilot Power Gauge Chronometer is a successor to the
Brellum’s cornerstone DuoBox, named after the box-type crystals
on the front and caseback. The Pilot Power Gauge is inspired,
like most pilot’s watches, by the instruments found in aircraft
cockpits. It’s a theme that holds true from the dial with gauges to
the movement rotor inspired by the turn coordinator instrument.
The limited edition release is available
in 33 pieces and offered in three galvanic
dials with a sunray pattern and decorated
COSC-certified chronometer movement,
offering a variety of aesthetic looks to satisfy
any taste. The black dial is classically elegant,
the silver dial offers a touch of sophistication,
and the blue dial is on-trend and striking.
The integrated stainless steel bracelet bears
minimal polishing and a convenient deployant
buckle. The handmade calf leather strap and
pin buckle offers a daily wear option.
The Pilot Power Gauge packs a lot of
features and function into the 41.8mm
stainless steel case without sacrificing
legibility. Brellum takes a contemporary approach for the
dial with large Arabic numbers in satin finish. Yet, when
the dial is viewed through the box crystal, it exudes a
vintage charm. The numbers, power indicator, 3/6/9/12
indexes, and all its sword hands are coated with Super-
LumiNova for reliable low-light condition legibility. The
indexes and the hands are rhodium-coated for maximum
reflected light in low-light conditions as well.
The chronograph layout of three subdials is
associated with the underlying Valjoux 7750-based
movement: a seconds hand at the nine o’clock position,
a 60-seconds counter at 12 o’clock and a 12-hour
counter at six o’clock. There is a date indicator at three
o’clock and just inside this is a gauge-like power reserve
indicator complete with a red warning zone on low power.
The movement is showcased under the box sapphire
crystal on the caseback, and features a skeletonized
rotor that deliberately recalls the leveling lines of
a horizontal situation indicator. The movement is
decorated with blued screws, Côtes de Genève stripes
and perlage patterns.
From the elegant engraving around the back of
the case to the Wyvern-inspired carbuncle design on
the crown, there is a sense of thoughtful design and
attention to detail for every inch of this pilot’s watch.
Retail Price: USD 3,020 on strap; USD 3,125 on bracelet
FEATURE 161

ARCHIMEDE TRIKOMPAX
FLIEGER CHRONOGRAPH
Since 1924, Ickler manufactures
premium quality watches and watch
cases, made to the highest quality
standards in Pforzheim, Germany,
for a demanding international clientele.
In 2003, Ickler decided to branch
out into watchmaking with its first
brand, Archimede.
Archimede gained popularity with
online watch forums for their quality
entry level flieger-inspired watches. The
first Pilot Chronograph won recognition
by a German trade publication for
its clean design. The Trikompax
Flieger Chronograph builds on that
design to showcase Ickler’s strengths
beyond just case manufacturing.
The watch configuration is not
tri-compax in a traditional sense,
since that would require three different
complications displayed on the dial.
However, it is a modern interpretation
of tri-compax, which is commonly
referred as the 3-6-9 layout. This layout
is easily achievable with ETA/Valjoux
7753, which has the date corrector
located at 10 o’clock. Archimede utilizes
a Soprod module on top of the 7753
movement, hence the date can be changed
from the crown.
The dial layout is well balanced with
the brand name under 12 o’clock. The
date remains at six o’clock but blends
in perfectly in the chronograph hour
sub-register. At first glance, what is
striking are the blued hands made in the
Ickler factory by the process of thermally
heating the steel hands until they turn
into a perfect deep blue color.
Ickler, known for its case
manufacturing, houses this chronograph
in a 42mm three-piece case with
either brushed steel finish or a black
PVD finish. The front has a domed
sapphire crystal, and the caseback
has a flat sapphire crystal. The overall
design, steel blued hands, and the
quality of case and movement make the
Archimede Trikompax a compelling
modern flieger chronograph.
Retail Price: From USD 2,300
162 FEATURE

FORTIS FLIEGER F-43
BICOMPAX
Fortis, under new management after
Jupp Philipp purchased the company
in 2018, has released the first glimpse
of the future of the watch company
with the Flieger F-43 Bicompax. It’s
a reassuring look at what is to come
with a modern pilot’s chronograph
that is a natural progression of the
brand’s cornerstone Flieger line.
The original Fortis Flieger was
introduced in 1987 and has come to
be a respected and trusted line of
pilot’s watches. They are functional,
reliable and bring a modern flair to
the traditional styling of most serious
pilot’s watches. The F-43 Bicompax
gets its name from the familiar dualsubdial
complication, and is available
with a three-link Oyster-style bracelet
with a quick-adjust slide clasp, or a
black-grained vegetable tanned natural
leather strap fitted with a pin buckle.
The dial is a sharp black opaline
that creates a contrasting backdrop
for clear legibility, the most important
function of a watch for a pilot during
flight. The patented Brixtrack system
is an index track of green Super-
LumiNova illuminated rectangles placed
on a slightly raised ring around the dial
for maximum legibility. At 12 o’clock
resides the familiar illuminated triangle
and two white dots. The Roman sword
hour and minute hands are similarly
filled with X1 Super-LumiNova,
black-rimmed and substantial, adding
to its at-a-glance readability. The
orange seconds hand highlights the
accent color of Berlac Fluor orange.
Fortis have added another original
feature they call the “Synchroline.” This
is a streak of fluor orange on the dial
above the 55 to 05 seconds indexes. The
purpose is to allow multiple pilots flying in
squadron formation to synchronize within
a five-second range when adjusting
time or starting the chronograph.
There are two subdials, a seconds
counter recessed at nine o’clock and
a 30-minute chronograph rimmed in
Berlac Fluor orange at three o’clock,
arranged with nice symmetry and minimal
design. A date indicator sits at six o’clock
and is bound by orange, a slight breach
of the strict color coding by chronograph
function, to visually balance the
Synchroline along the top of the dial.
The bezel is a traditional 12-hour
GMT style with bi-directional rotation
that allows for a quick second timezone.
It features an elevated profile rimmed
with grip-enhancing coin grooves for
easy use even in gloves. The bezel also
features a click rotation at each hour
that allows fast and accurate one-hour
offset timezone changes by feel. The
chronograph pushers are at two and four
o’clock and are etched with an anti-slip
pattern to continue the accessibility.
The 43mm case is brushed stainless
steel, and the solid caseback is etched with
an abstract propeller design. The screwin
caseback and crown allows for up to
200-meter water resistance in the case
of a water landing, further attestation of
Fortis’ thoughtful and utilitarian design.
The automatic chronograph
movement is based on the Sellita SW510
caliber, which provides 48 hours of
power reserve.
Retail Price: From USD 3,120
FEATURE 163

LACO MÜNCHEN
Laco, established in 1925, was one of
the original five watch manufacturers
commissioned to manufacture pilot’s
watches in the 1940s for the German
military. They’ve been creating fliegerstyle
watches ever since, and the
München is a standout model for their
line of chronographs.
At first glance, the München has
standard Type A aviator dial features,
a three-hand time display of bright
white on a black matte dial under a
domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal.
Simple, effective and classic. Upon
second glance, however, the gray-ongray
subdials of a 7750 Valjoux-based
tricompax chronograph reveals itself. It’s
a neat trick performed effectively and is
bound to be a conversation starter.
The dial is matte black with thermally
blued steel hands that are filled with
Super-LumiNova C3. The numerals are clean, bright-white Arabic printed on the
black dial for a crisp legibility. The numerals and the index rail also feature the Super-
LumiNova C3 coating. The design delivers a minimalistic, Type A flieger display within
all light conditions, with the standard triangle and two dots for quick orientation.
The subdials are printed in gray lettering with matching gray hands, making them
appear to fade slightly into the black dial and giving them a clear secondary function.
Like most ETA/Valjoux 7750-based designs, there is a continuous second at nine
o’clock, a 30-minute chronograph subdial at 12 o’clock, and a 12-hour chronograph
subdial at six o’clock. There is also a day and date complication feature paired well
with the Laco logo, which is printed in the same subtle gray.
The oversized diamond crown at three o’clock and the two chronograph pushers
give the München a classic flieger chronograph profile. The case is 42.3mm, in
stainless steel that has been dark sandblasted to continue the matte theme of the
watch. With straight lugs and paired with a double riveted leather strap in deep cocoa
brown and contrasting white stitching, the München delivers a clean, classic and
traditional appearance.
The Laco 50 chronograph movement is based on the ETA/Valjoux 7750, featuring
25 jewels, with hacking seconds during time adjustment for precision. The case is
waterproof to 100 meters and has a power reserve of 42 hours. The Laco München is a
limited release of 200 pieces.
Retail Price: USD 2,400
164 FEATURE

STOWA FLIEGER CLASSIC
CHRONOGRAPH
Stowa was founded in 1927 by Walter Storz,
and Jörg Schauer acquired the company in
1996 from Werner Storz, the successor and
son of the founder. As a trained watchmaker
and designer, Jörg redesigned the historical
Stowa pilot’s watches in cooperation with
Hartmut Esslinger, and moved the design
element forward with the times. Stowa’s
philosophy is that form followed emotion.
The most noteworthy aspects of the
Stowa Flieger Classic Chronograph are the
attributes that aren’t there. It has a sterile
dial without seconds subdial and date
complication. This timepiece is a study in
simplicity. According to Jörg Schauer, the dial
borrows elements from the original 1940s
flieger without any branding, and like the
original, there is no running sub-seconds.
From the first glance, it is unmistakably a
classic flieger with stopwatch functionality.
The Flieger Classic Chronograph’s dial
is matte black for maximum contrast with the
large numbers and indexes printed in white
and coated with Super-LumiNova. The hands
are the thermally blued steel featured in all
Stowa pilot’s watches, and filled with Super-
LumiNova, creating an unobtrusive dial for day,
low-light and night-time viewing. At the 12
o’clock position rests the classic triangle with
two dots, designed for a pilot to quickly assess
the upward orientation of the watch in the dark.
The oversized chronograph minutes
subdial is positioned at three o’clock,
replacing the numerals 2 through 4, giving
the dial a well-balanced symmetry. That’s it.
Nothing else appears that isn’t used for time
keeping. The dial is sharp, highly functional
and embraces its utilitarian simplicity with
confidence. Even the 41mm case plays its part
in the minimalist design with brushed matte
steel and fine finishing completed by hand.
Inside the Stowa Flieger Classic
Chronograph is either the ETA/Valjoux 7753
automatic movement, or a modified 7753
manual winding movement. The movement
is revealed under the domed sapphire
display caseback, a beautiful and ornate
counterpoint to the clean design of the dial.
The contrast between the sober dial and the
surprise of the caseback is part of the joy of
this flieger chronograph, especially with the
manually wound option, that showcases the
movement with a custom-engraved bridge.
Retail Price: USD 2,290
FEATURE 165

Start, Stop, Seiko
The story of Seiko’s innovative chronographs.
Words Felix Scholz
Seiko is a brand that gets richer and more interesting, the
deeper you dive. On the surface, they are a wildly popular
maker of well-priced watches. Spend a little more time
looking, and it quickly becomes clear that the Japanese brand
is one of the most significant makers of the 20th century, both
for the breadth and scope of the watches they produce and also
for the innovation they demonstrate. In practically every field,
Seiko has been at the forefront of new technologies, processes
and materials. This is as true of chronographs as any other
category of watches.
Here’s a look at the golden era of Seiko’s chronographs, from
the first wrist stopwatch through to the last advanced movements
the Japanese brand made before shifting to quartz in the 1980s.
THE GAMES OF THE XVIII OLYMPIAD
Given the inherently sporty nature of the chronograph
complication, it makes perfect sense that the first Seiko
chronograph was introduced at the 1964 Tokyo Olympics — an
event that symbolized a new era for Seiko, and for all of Japan.
Hosting the Olympic Games is a hugely significant
event for any country, but for Tokyo, hosting the 1964
Summer Olympics represented a turning point — one that
saw Japan return to the global stage as an independent,
economically prosperous nation, and Tokyo as a thriving,
technologically advanced city. The ’64 Games prompted
an incredible infrastructure boom that gave the world —
amongst other things — the famous Shinkansen bullet trains.
The total cost of hosting the Games is estimated to be the
equivalent of the entire annual budget for the nation.
Part of this rapid growth and industrialization was Seiko,
which was expanding thanks to an aggressive domestic
marketing strategy and accompanying advances in products and
innovation. The year 1960 saw the introduction of the brand’s
premium offering in the form of the first Grand Seiko model.
A few years later, Seiko introduced a line that would have
an enduring appeal at the younger end of the watch-buying
market, the Seiko Sportsmatic 5, a watch that offered the best
technology of the day, utilizing the brand’s efficient ‘magic
lever’ automatic-winding, robust mainspring, diashock system,
a water-resistant case and handy day-date display.
If things were looking on the up-and-up for the Japanese
brand prior to 1964, the Tokyo Olympics raised the stakes
even higher as Seiko was the official timekeeper of the 18th
Olympiad, developing 36 models and 1,278 timing devices to
be used at the Games, overseen by specially trained Seiko staff.
One particularly relevant innovation is that the ’64 Olympics
marked the first-ever use of a quartz-regulated stop clock, a
deskbound device that showed just how far Seiko’s mastery
of quartz technology would progress in a few short years.
Understandably, Seiko was proud of their achievements and
even published an informative brochure on the types and uses
of timing equipment at the Games.
A brochure highlighting
Seiko’s timing
technology from the
1964 Tokyo Olympics
(Image: Plus9Time)
166 FEATURE

FEATURE 167
Produced for the
Japanese market,
this Seiko 5 Sports
Speed-Timer was the
firstwatchtofeature
the sophisticated
6139 movement, an
integrated automatic
chronograph with a
vertical clutch

THE CROWN CHRONOGRAPH
This pride expressed itself in another way, too, in the form of
Japan’s first wristwatch chronograph, the reference 5719A-
45899. This 38mm watch, known as the Crown Chronograph,
proudly bore an engraving of an Olympic torch on the
caseback, and was a monopusher column wheel chronograph,
powered by the manually wound caliber 5719. The movement
developed by Suwa Seikosha was, like many of Seiko’s calibers,
a mix of no-frills finish and solid specifications. The 12-ligne
movement beat at 5.5Hz and offered 38 hours of power reserve
with the stopwatch running.
As far as chronographs went, this watch offered limited
utility as it was only capable of timing events up to 60 seconds in
duration. Seiko smartly provided something of a work-around,
though, in the form of a bezel gradated for minutes. On the
original release, this bezel was plastic. Subsequent models
upgraded the bi-directional bezel to more hard-wearing metal.
This bezel allowed the wearer to track elapsed minutes with a
reasonable degree of accuracy.
The reference 5719A-45899 wasn’t the only chronograph
Seiko made in 1964. They also produced the exceptionally
rare reference 5718-8000, a much more complicated watch
that was sold at the Olympic Village during the Games. This
reference features an elapsed-minutes counter at the bottom
of the dial (stacked with running seconds) as well as a manually
operated counter at the top of the dial that could be used to
The year 1969 was a
busy one on every front
… It was a year of change
all over the world,
but watchmakers —
especially watchmakers
at Seiko — were focusing
on an entirely different
kind of revolution.
keep track of laps or points. This 37mm
watch is very rarely seen, which explains
the fact that the second model to be sold
at auction, by Bonhams Hong Kong
in August 2020, achieved a price of
HKD138,125 (or around USD18,000).
Seiko’s first
chronograph, the
reference 5719A-
45899 ‘Crown’
Chronograph
1969: A REVOLUTIONARY YEAR
The year 1969 was a busy one on every
front. Socially and politically, it was the
era of counterculture and protest, of
Woodstock, The Beatles, the Stonewall
riots, and even Sesame Street. It was a year
that saw the birth of the Internet and the
Concorde’s maiden flight. And it was the
year that man landed on the moon. It was
a year of change all over the world, but
watchmakers — especially watchmakers
at Seiko — were focusing on an
entirely different kind of revolution.
Seiko didn’t take long to build off
their early chronograph offerings, and
in 1969, the brand released their first
automatic chronograph, the caliber
6139. Much has been made of the trinity
of automatic chronographs released
168 FEATURE

The rare Seiko
reference 5718-8000
(Image: Bonhams)
in 1969: Zenith’s El Primero and the
Project 99 consortium’s Chronomatic
(also known as Caliber 11). In contrast,
Seiko’s trumpeting of their achievement
with the cal. 6139, an integrated 3Hz
model with column wheel and vertical
coupling, seemed a little underwhelming.
After all, while the Swiss spent many
years achieving their automatic
chronographs, it is said that Seiko only
began working on the caliber 6139 and
its sister caliber 6138 in 1967. And these
movements, while announced after the
Swiss models, were the first to actually be
sold in stores.
Of course, in retrospect, we know
that Seiko had bigger fish to fry in 1969
than the automatic chronograph. On 25
December 1969, Seiko announced the
fruit of 10 years of labor: the world’s first
quartz watch, the Astron. And while only
200 Astrons were initially produced, this
small watch had an incredible impact on
the watch industry and the world in the
following decades, and marked the start
of the quartz revolution.
Seiko 6139-6005
‘Pogue’ (Image:
Craft+Tailored)
FEATURE 169

THE 6139
The full impact of quartz technology
would not be felt for some time, and
in the meantime, Seiko went wild with
its automatic chronographs, powered
by the 6139 and 6138 movements.
As was so often the case with Seiko,
there were a lot of models, references
and variants, so we’re going to stick
to some of the major beats here,
starting with the 6139-600X series.
Commonly referred to as the Speed-
Timer, as some Japanese market models
had it printed on the dial, for many, this
was the quintessential vintage Seiko
chronograph — and with good reason.
Production on this movement ran
from 1969 until 1978, and the watches
look very much of the era. With a large
40mm case, a fixed aluminum bezel in
a chunky, cushion-shaped case with
short lugs, a recessed winding crown
and simple pushers, the Speed-Timers
stood out. And that’s before we even
get to the dials. There were quite a lot of
variations in the dial design and text, but
the commonalities were the day-date
at three o’clock, the single 30-minute
counter at six o’clock, and the charming,
if somewhat redundant, internal bezel.
Dials came in blue, silver and yellow.
Of all the variants, the yellow stands
out the most and is perhaps the most
famous among collectors. Cameron Barr,
the founder of Craft+Tailored, attributes
the popularity of this line to several
factors, but most significantly, the yellowdialled
‘Pogue’: “The bright yellow dial
and ‘Pepsi-like’ tachymeter bezel make
the watch stand out on the wrist, making
it desirable. The accessible price point
makes it an interesting watch to collect
and enjoy without worrying too much
about the tangible value. Additionally,
there is some very cool horological history
and a wide range of sub-references and
variants within the 6139 series, which
make them attractive to collectors.”
Traditionally, Seiko watches have
been a lower-priced product, and the
6139s are no different (though it must be
said that the value proposition provided
by these personality-filled pieces is
tremendous). Up until a few years ago, it
wasn’t hard to find a decent example in
the low hundreds. However, the rising
demand is leading to increasing scarcity
SEIKOS IN SPACE
Ever wondered
why some Seiko
chronographs
are referred to as
‘Pogues’? Well, aside
from Seiko fans’
general proclivity to
nicknaming watches,
it comes down to
Colonel William Pogue
and his reference
6139-6002. Pogue
Colonel William Pogue wearing his Seiko on Skylab 4 (Image: NASA)
was a NASA astronaut
slated to launch with 1973’s Skylab 4 mission. Pogue needed a chronograph for his
mission training and NASA did not issue the approved Omega until close to launch.
SoPoguepurchasedhisSeikoforUSD71on13June1972andusedittotime
engine burns during training. When the time came to launch Skylab 4 in November
1973, Pogue, who was familiar with his Seiko, snuck it unapproved into the pocket
of his flight suit (while wearing the NASA-certified Speedmaster on his wrist) and
took it into space. So it was that the humble Seiko 6139-6002 spent 84 days
traveling some 34 million miles around the Earth, and became the first automatic
chronograph in space.
This story only came to light in 2007 after it was spotted on his wrist in archival
photographs. Since then, the yellow-dialled version of the Speed-Timer is often
referred to as “The Pogue”. In 2008, Pogue sold his watch — which he wore for
decades — at auction. It fetched USD5,975, a very healthy price for a Seiko
chronograph. We can’t help but wonder, though, if it wouldn’t fetch a little more if it
were sold today.
Seiko 6138-0020
‘UFO’ (Image:
Craft+Tailored)
170 FEATURE

and prices, and it’s not uncommon to see
honest pieces retail for around the high
hundreds and low thousands.
THE 6138
The 6139 and the 6138 lines of
movements were both released in the
same year, and are mechanically very
similar, with one key difference: the 6139
was a single register, while the 6138 was
a double. In fact, there were actually two
versions — the 6138A and the 6138B.
Both movements were 27.4mm wide by
7.9mm tall, beating at 21,600 beats per
hour. Both used the same column wheel
construction with vertical coupling as the
6139, and both had day-date displays.
The only difference was that the 6138A
had 21 jewels, and the 6138B had 23.
While the 6139 is primarily known
for one clear silhouette, there is no
single style associated with the 6138.
The movement made its way into a
profusion of case styles, which today
enjoy a confusing array of monikers.
There’s the Bullhead, which sees the
movement twisted 45 degrees, resulting
in the chronograph pushers on the
top; the ‘Kakume’ models with square
registers; and the lugless ‘UFO’, named
for the eponymous flying saucer. One of
the most desirable designations, thanks
to a healthily balanced blend of ’70s
style and timeless appeal is the ‘Panda’,
which is, unsurprisingly, a silver-dialled
model with two black registers. Of all the
6138’s, this is the one to pounce on.
THE 7017, 7018 AND 7016 CALIBRES
Two less well-known chronographs
from Seiko are the 7017 and the 7018.
The caliber 7017, produced in 1970,
measured a svelte 5.9mm tall (compared
to 6.5mm for the 6139, and 7.9mm for the
6138). While functionally similar to the
6139, its smaller frame and reduced parts
count meant that it was a significantly
different beast to its forebearer. The
7018, released a year later in 1971,
followed the same slender formula, but
added a 30-minute counter. The last
mechanical chronograph caliber Seiko
produced until the rebirth of interest in
mechanical movements in the 1990s was
the 7016, announced in 1972. This caliber
was, as we’ve come to expect from Seiko,
quite advanced. In addition to being a
flyback, it also featured stacked hour and
minute totalizers in a single register at
six o’clock — a feature that we’re used
to seeing today on exponentially more
expensive Swiss watches. By any measure,
the 7016 is an impressive movement,
and is still relatively underappreciated,
perhaps because of its shorter production
run and also because it tended to be used
in watches with very bold ’70s geometric
cases, which may have limited their
appeal amongst collectors.
THE END OF AN ERA
In the late 1970s, Seiko stopped producing
mechanical chronograph movements,
eventually introducing the quartz 7A28
analogue chronograph movement in 1983,
its mainline chronograph movement,
which powered its fair share of iconic
designs — such as the Giorgetto Giugiarodesigned
7A28-7000 worn by Sigourney
Weaver in the 1986 film Aliens. It wasn’t
until the 6S series of movements in the
late 1990s that Seiko once again went
mechanical. By that point, the brand was
focused on new frontiers of innovation,
with technologies like Spring Drive and
the second iteration of the Astron. Even
so, the pioneering movements of the ’60s
and ’70s left their mark on the watch
scene, and continue to be a rich field for
collectors and enthusiasts.
One of the most
popular of the 6138
chronographs is the
so-called ‘Panda’
Seiko 7016-5010 (Image: Bonhams)
The iconic Seiko quartz 7A28-7000 worn
by Sigourney Weaver in the film Aliens
FEATURE 171

T E C H N I C A L

Run Like Hell
Enter the world of the super fast
chronographs, capable of marking
time down to fractions of a second —
tenths, hundredths, and beyond.
Words Israel Ortega
Chronographs are as useful as they are fun
because, in addition to allowing us to
measure short periods of time, they help us
to appreciate the transcendent nature of time. Let
me explain: as a child I used to like playing with my
Casio chronographs, challenging myself to achieve
the shortest possible measurement of time. As you
well know, these watches can measure up to 1/100th
of a second. In my “game,” the idea was to mark the
shortest time by double-pressing the start and stop
button very quickly.
The best I achieved was 0.07 seconds, and I am
still doing 0.07 or 0.08 seconds consistently to date,
over 30 years later. But I’ve never reached that elusive
0.06 (can anyone do it?). That made me see how
incredible it is for a watch to be able to break a tiny
second into smaller portions; one second, that small
temporal unit, passes in an instant and leaves in a
breath.
If marking 1/100th of a second is spectacular in
an electronic device based on old quartz technology,
how much more remarkable is it to do so by means of a
mechanical device? But first, we start with the already
fantastic achievement of measuring and displaying
individual seconds utilizing a mechanical timepiece.
Let’s go back to April 17th, 1970, right at the time
of the famous 14-second burn that allowed the Apollo
13’s entry angle to be corrected to avoid incineration
at its entry into the Earth’s atmosphere. I won’t go
into the historical details, but imagine this situation:
what if, instead of using an Omega Speedmaster
Chronograph to measure that lapse, Mission Control
had told the astronauts, “Here’s what you gonna do:
you’ll fire the engines, count to 14, and turn them off.
Let us know how that goes.” I doubt very much that
it would have been enough to accomplish the life and
death task performed by the Apollo 13 crew.
And that’s precisely the point: it’s one thing to
properly measure a lapse using a technical instrument
and another, to merely estimate it. We can all
reasonably estimate a second. In fact, we can count up
to 60 or even 100 in a measured, cadenced manner,
and we can surely keep up nicely with a chronograph.
But that will not happen in more prolonged periods.
While we will lose the cadence (and the interest) for
sure, the mechanics — cold, reliable and consistent —
will defeat us at every moment. And that’s just with the
familiar seconds, let alone consider the tinier, more
difficult fractions.
Since the dawn of watchmaking, masters and
scientists have striven for maximum precision. Louis
Moinet’s chronograph of 1816 already struck 1/60th
of a second, thanks to its fast 30-hertz balance wheel.
TAG Heuer consistently reached the hundredths
with its Mikrograph from the beginning of the last
century. But the challenge was to bring this temporal
efficiency to smaller and smaller watches. Without a
doubt, Zenith’s El Primero caliber and its frequency
of 5Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour), which allowed it
to measure 1/10th of a second (0.1 seconds), was the
first big step in this quest to measure and mark those
tiny “sub-seconds.”
Watchmakers have been able to obtain the
formulas to count these fractions, but they are
often faced with technical challenges, such as the
limitations of the materials used. Therefore, they have
had to innovate in various ways to reach the objective
of ultimate precision.
174 TECHNICAL

Birthed in 1969, Zenith’s El Primero
caliber, code-named 3019 PHC, is the
first integrated column wheel automatic
chronograph movement that beats at
a frequency of 36,000vph, allowing for
1/10th of a second precision

The cal. 589F features a
silicon escapement and
flat balance spring. The
non-magnetic material
is not only very light, but
also removes the need
for lubrication, the high
oscillation frequency
notwithstanding
(Opposite page from top)
Breguet’s Type XXI 3880
uses the 589F caliber
that beats at 72,000 vph
or10Hz,asemblazoned
prominently on its dial in
red; The caseback of the
3880 provides a small
porthole for a glimpse
of the balance wheel’s
relentless pace

BREGUET
Type XXII (10Hz)
It comes as no surprise that one of the great fathers of
mechanical watchmaking, Abraham-Louis Breguet,
had had a hand in developing the chronograph.
As succinctly put on the brand website, “With his
‘chronomètre à doubles secondes, dit d’observation,’
developed in 1820, which permitted the measurement
of intermediate periods or of the length of time taken
by two separate and simultaneous events, Breguet
anticipated the modern chronograph.” Indeed,
while A-L Breguet did not create the chronograph
(that honor belonged to his close colleague Louis
Moinet, in 1816), he was instrumental in pushing the
envelope of watchmaking, for the development of the
chronograph capable of measuring time lapses in its
most small units.
In the 200 years of evolution of the Swiss lever
escapement, the operating frequencies have not
increased at all or only slightly here and there. The
most common frequencies for a chronograph range
from 21,600vph (3Hz) to 28,800vph (4Hz), leaving
the 36,000vph (5Hz) to heroes like the El Primero.
So then, the doubling of that standard is as fascinating
as it is commendable. In 2010, Breguet introduced
the Type XXII reference 3880 ST, with a frequency
of 10Hz (72,000 vibrations per hour, twice the high
frequency defined by the El Primero chronograph
in 1969). This reinvention of the legendary Type
XX military marine watch born in the 1950s took
precision to a higher level. The result of the brand’s
research into high frequencies for more precise and
reliable time measurement, the Type XXII was the
first and only standard mechanical chronograph with
a 10Hz movement.
This technical feat of 10Hz timing was made
possible by using silicon, which served to lighten the
moving parts’ weight, eliminate the harmful effects
of magnetism, and reduce the need for lubrication
without compromising the wear and tear of the
elements. The 589F automatic movement incorporated
a silicon spiral, lever and escape wheel. The lighter
mass design allows the heart to beat 72,000 vibrations
per hour, making it beat and show 1/20th of a second.
Obviously, this increase in the oscillator frequency
also led to a real improvement in the operation of
the chronograph. In the Breguet Type XXII, how the
seconds hand rotates is significantly modified — it
makes a complete rotation in 30 seconds. The increase
in frequency influences the duration of the small jumps
made by the hand. It seems to float around the dial
magically. This gentler movement is combined with a
higher resolution and a more accurate display, which
is no small matter since a chronograph is not very
useful if you can’t read and understand it well and at a
glance. Each second is divided into 10 visible fractions
on the peripheral scale around the dial that is aided
by lumed Arabic numerals, indexes and the color red
to make reading easier. The chronograph function on
this high-frequency Breguet does not use any of the
subsidiary dials. Instead, it uses two central hands for
the seconds and minutes. The chronograph seconds
hand moves around the entire dial every 30 seconds.
The minute hand travels twice every minute. Thus,
precise fractional reading of the elapsed time is easy.
Mr. A-L Breguet himself would have been amazed.
TECHNICAL 177

TAG HEUER
MIKROGRAPH (50Hz and more)
Invented by Charles-Auguste Heuer in 1916, the
Mikrograph chronometer was the first watch to
measure elapsed time with an accuracy of 1/100th of a
second, thanks to a mechanism that beat at 360,000
vibrations per hour (50Hz). Strictly speaking, it was
a high-precision chronoscope as it did not offer the
time. It only measured lapses.
In 2005, TAG Heuer launched the Carrera Caliber
360 Concept, which became the first automatic
chronograph wristwatch with 1/100th of a second
accuracy. The Caliber 360 was a 230-component
modular movement that combined an ETA 2893
automatic base module and a self-winding manual
chronograph movement. The fun caliber was released
in late 2005 as the Vanquish Limited Edition.
Six years later, and almost 90 years after Charles
Heuer had invented the first Mikrograph, a modern
version of the movement was revived by TAG Heuer,
based on the same idea of using a 10Hz chronograph
mechanism, but this time combined with the ability to
indicate the time. It was also the first of the 1/100thsecond
chronographs to use the double-winged
movement design with two balance wheels: one for the
time regulation that beats at 28,800vph (4Hz), and
another for the timer, pulsating at 360,000vph (50Hz).
In that same year, another new watch was
introduced based on the same dual-balance-wheel
principle, but using a new integrated 1/1,000thsecond
chronograph developed by the firm. Yes,
that’s thousandths of a second, folks. The Mikrotimer
Flying 1000 boasted an incredible 1/1,000th of a
second accuracy, thanks to a chronograph regulator
that vibrates 10 times faster than the Mikrograph — it
vibrates at a whopping 3,600,000vph. No wonder
that this watch was recognized at the Grand Prix
d’Horlogerie de Geneva in 2011, receiving the award
for the Sports Watch Prize.
It did not take long for TAG Heuer to raise the level
dramatically in 2012. That year, the house of La Chauxde-Fonds
unveiled a crazy concept: a 5/10,000thsecond
counter that would pulse at 1,000Hz (1kHz!),
that is, 7.2 million vibrations every hour.
With an unprecedented precision of 5/10,000th
or 1/2,000th of a second, the Mikrogirder was a highly
innovative regulating system employing a tandem of
oscillating girder coupling in a beam that worked like
a pair of very fast linear oscillators (as opposed to the
spiral shape of a classic balance wheel and hairspring).
They vibrated isochronously in a tiny amplitude, an
indispensable condition for a quick oscillation. We
can understand it like this: unlike a traditional watch,
whose balance wheel oscillates at an angle of up to 320
degrees, the girder comes and goes on its beam in a
very small straight path that allows it to complete more
cycles in shorter times.
The independence of this system prevents
interference between the systems, providing stability
and precision. The power reserve is also improved,
and wear and tear are drastically reduced since the
“high speed” function is “on demand” instead of
always connected. Finally, the dual-frequency system
offers the ultimate in readability. The smallest fraction
of time — 1/100th, 1/1,000th, and 5/10,000th of a
second — is displayed on a central hand that makes
a complete revolution around the dial an impressive
20 times per second. Also, and like the Mikrotimer
Flying 1000, the display allows for quick reading of
the measurement thanks to three scales — two on the
periphery of the dial and one at three o’clock.
In 2016, TAG Heuer launched the 100th
Anniversary Special Edition Mikrograph Caliber
that pays tribute to the original Mikrograph that
Charles Heuer built in 1916. This watch uses the same
movement as its 2011 predecessor. It features a dualregulation
system that separates the chronograph from
the conventional time and date display. The feat lies
in the watch’s capability of measuring and displaying
hundredths of a second through a central hand — a
great show to be enjoyed.
To achieve such an incredible level of accuracy
for a mechanical watch, the Mikrograph uses two
regulators. One beats at 28,800vph (4Hz) and
regulates the ordinary watch. The other beats at
360,000vph (50Hz) and regulates the chronograph.
This dual-balance-wheel system provides a separation
that prevents any adverse effects on the timing
regulation when running the timepiece. Basically, one
side of the movement keeps the time and date, and
is powered by its own barrel with a regular 42-hour
power reserve. The other side houses the chronograph,
and has its 90-minute barrel, gear train and regulator.
Both sides of the movement are wound by the same
rotor that winds bidirectionally, with each direction
winding a barrel.
178 TECHNICAL

The TAG Heuer Monaco Mikrograph
from 2011 features two independent
oscillators, a configuration that became
the go-to solution for later TAG Heuer
and Zenith high-speed chronographs

Zenith’s calibre 9004 , another
dual-oscillator movement.
Thanks to its separate power
sources, regulating organs and
escapements, it can measure
at a resolution of 1/100th of a
second for up to 50 minutes

ZENITH
DEFY EL PRIMERO 21 (50Hz)
In 1969, Zenith launched El Primero, the first
integrated column-wheel automatic chronograph
movement, which allows for 1/10th of a second
precision. This model marked a new milestone
in watchmaking history and established itself as
the pinnacle of high chronographic accuracy and
reliability. Half a century later, the El Primero caliber
is the knight in shining armor that defends Zenith’s
legacy and its history.
In 2017, Zenith decided that it needed to enhance
the prestige of its legendary El Primero highfrequency
chronograph movement. The answer
was the Defy El Primero 21, which was unveiled at
Baselworld 2017. The Defy El Primero 21 increased
the self-winding movement’s pace from 5Hz to 50Hz,
offering an accuracy of 1/100th of a second. Zenith
acquired the inspiration (if not the solution itself) from
its TAG Heuer corporate cousins, who have extensive
experience in high-precision chronograph matters.
The automatic high-frequency movement of
El Primero 9004 gives life to the extremely successful
Defy collection and reveals its complexity on both
sides of its structure. The caliber is complemented
by various case finishes depending on the reference,
and there are many of them, confirming the overall
success this chronograph has enjoyed since 2017. As
we have seen again and again, running at a frequency
of 360,000 vibrations per hour (50Hz) to deliver
unprecedented accuracy of one-hundredth of a
second has its challenges. To counteract the enormous
energy consumption and wear on parts required for
these performances, the Defy 21 is based on a dualbalance-wheel
architecture and two barrels connected
in series that provide a 50-hour power reserve when
the chronograph is not activated.
Complementing the watch’s novel capabilities and
the feature that made possible the chronographic feats
of this superfast El Primero are the patented, selfproduced
balance springs made of a material called
carbon matrix nanotube, developed by the LVMH
Group’s technical branch. This compound makes the
watch insensitive to temperature and magnetic fields
well beyond the 15,000 Gauss standard, ensuring
unparalleled accuracy in any condition.
The 9004 movement also boasts a patented reset
control mechanism that allows simultaneous resetting
of seconds, tenths, and hundredths of a second.
Despite its phenomenal speed, chronometry is never
compromised, and the movement is certified by the
Swiss entity TimeLab.
The essential functions of the watch (hours,
minutes, and seconds) are regulated by the established
5Hz frequency of the El Primero movement, while the
chronograph is controlled by the frantic 50Hz seconds
hand. The watch’s prowess is enjoyed when the
chronograph starts and the seconds hand flies around
the dial once per second. Even if there is no event to
measure, this is a must-see show (be sure to brag
about the caliber’s history) that will open a thousand
high-end horological conversations. The chronograph
seconds are counted in the 60-second register at six
o’clock and the minutes in the 30-minute register
at three o’clock. A tiny, colored linear power reserve
for the chronograph function lurks just below the
12 o’clock position. The crown turns the manualwinding
operation in two directions: clockwise for
the chronograph barrel (25 turns for a full wind) and
counterclockwise for the regular timekeeping.
TECHNICAL 181

F.P. JOURNE
CENTIGRAPHE SOUVERAIN
(3Hz and lots of trickery)
If you are not familiar with the Centigraphe Souverain,
this watch is notable because it is a timepiece that
displays time to the hundredth of a second. But notice
that I said “display” and not “measure.”
As we mentioned at the beginning of this article,
they are different things. And while we prefer the
technical majesty of a watch whose movement lays the
foundation for accurate and reliable recording of short
times and their smallest fractions, we must recognize
the alternatives that do (almost) the same thing. And
the Centigraphe Souverain, from the genius who is
François-Paul Journe, opts for that direction and does
so in a rather cunning way.
Being a watchmaker is about fighting against the
laws of physics. Whatever you want to do, there is an
undesired reaction or consequence. All of us who
have spoken with Journe know that his main enemies
(well, the enemy of his watches with movements made
of gold) are friction and wear of the components.
Therefore, it will always be vital for François-Paul to
find ways to reduce friction in his movements, with
the level of complexity depending on the number of
components involved. And he has managed to do this
with the Centigraphe.
In the Centigraphe and specifically Journe’s handwound
caliber 1506, the display of the hundredths of
a second is shown at the 10 o’clock subdial. Strictly
speaking, that dial is a flying seconds — or foudroyante
— display, which means that the hand jumps once
every time the escape wheel turns (six times every
second in this watch). So, although you can stop the
pointer anywhere in the register, it does not move at
a constant rate, which means it does not give you the
exact fraction of a second with the highest degree
of accuracy. The other dials are a 20-second and a
10-minute register, both for the chronograph as well.
Let’s go with the most contentious feature: the
frequency of oscillation of the steering wheel, which
is a measured 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz). That
implies six beats per second... not 10 or anything like
that. And six is not an integer divisor of 100 either.
The problem is that a slow rate is a complete
opposite of what is needed to measure small intervals.
Still, notice that the watch is called “Centigraphe.”
If “chronograph” means “time writer,” then
Centigraphe means “writer of hundreds.” In other
words, the timepiece should display (again, not
measure) centesimal fractions.
There is a good reason for the sluggish 3Hz pace of
the 1506’s balance wheel: since the watch is reasonably
slim, it does away with an automatic-winding
system, so it has to have a good power reserve for all
the functions. In the end, the power reserve of this
timepiece is a respectable three days, which compares
very well with the 50 hours of the Zenith El Primero or
the 40 hours of the Breguet Type XXII.
The chronograph system has a separate gear train,
driven directly by the mainspring, isolating it from the
escapement to maintain accuracy when in operation.
In consequence, the amplitude of the balance wheel
is not affected when the counter is engaged. The
hands on the hundredths and 20-second counters
are driven by independent trains, which are driven
from the barrel’s axis. A third wheel train operates the
10-minute hand.
It all works like this: the hundredths hand,
controlled by the watch’s unique escapement, makes
one revolution per second in 1/6th steps. A wheel
mounted on the wheel of the escapement (the fourth
wheel) releases the axis that carries the hand. The
seconds are driven by the train from the barrel axis and
by the chronograph train’s energy, also generated from
the barrel axle. The centesimal hand can stop anytime
and anywhere it is located, allowing a split reading.
This is possible by vertically disengaging the centesimal
shaft’s pinion from the escapement drive while
simultaneously pressing the stem to act as a brake.
Where a typical chronograph engages tooth to
tooth for driving, the Centigraphe Souverain purposely
allows sliding between each of the six linkages to
enable a brake lever to “catch” the wheel driving
the hand between each oscillation. The result is an
approximation of what would be hundredths of a
second so that despite only six impulses, the watch can
produce a fractional reading of 1/100th resolution.
182 TECHNICAL

Instead of a high-frequency
movement, the Centigraphe
Souverain features the 3Hz caliber
1506 that can produce a fractional
reading of 1/1,000th resolution,
thanks to Journe’s ingenuity

The new 18K yellow
gold Oyster Perpetual
Sky-Dweller with an
Oysterflex bracelet

THE MOST COMPLICATED MODERN ROLEX:
THE OYSTER PERPETUAL
SKY-DWELLER
The Sky-Dweller is one of Rolex’s most complicated watches, combining two of horology’s
most famous innovations — the annual calendar and the GMT function. Yet it’s actually
incredibly easy, fun and intuitive to use. In this article, we demystify it and show you how.
Words Wei Koh
L
aunched in 2012, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Sky-Dweller has, in its eight-year life span,
become an object of cult collectibility and one
of the most desirable modern classic watches around.
Jay-Z’s got the 18K yellow gold and champagnecolored
dial model, “The Notorious One” Conor
McGregor’s got the 18K Everose gold and chocolatedial
model, and even Tom Hardy, one of the finest
actors of his generation, rocks the 18K white gold and
ivory dial model. But beyond its obvious wrist swagger
represented by its 42mm case size and 14mm case
height, did you know that this watch is the equivalent
of a mechanical supercomputer, combining two of
horology’s most functional complications, the annual
calendar and the GMT function? Further, the way the
watch has been set up provides unparalleled legibility
and clarity when reading the month, date and time for
both local and home time. Using an innovative and
totally unique Ring Command system that interacts
between the rotatable bezel, the winding crown and
the movement, the Sky-Dweller is also the easiest
and most intuitive-to-use annual calendar around.
Before delving into the specifics of how to use, set and
read the Sky-Dweller as both an annual calendar and
a multi-timezone watch, let’s first look at the history
of these complications.
WHY THE NAME SKY-DWELLER?
While it might be an amusing play on the words
“Sea-Dweller” — the name given to Rolex’s famous
saturation diving watch — the objective of the Sky-
Dweller is quite different from that tool watch’s
pragmatic roots. Instead, leading up to the model’s
launch in 2012, Rolex realized that travel had become
an everyday reality for the majority of business
people and the tribe of transglobal luxury travelers
all circumnavigating the earth multiple times a year.
Rolex understood that for many of us who go through
extended stretches waking up each day in
a different city, it is our wristwatch that
keeps us rooted and oriented, helping us
navigate our way through the adventures
that comprise modern life. So what Rolex
did with the Sky-Dweller was to create
the ultimate companion watch for the
modern traveler. A watch that, at one
glance, gives you a perfect reading of
time at home and also where you are right
now. A watch that gives you perfect and
easy reading of both date and month. A
watch that is so intelligent that it knows
which months have 30 days and which
months have 31 days, and adjusts the
date for you accordingly. And finally, it
is a watch that, despite all this incredible
ability, is fun, intuitive and easy to use.
Welcome to the world of the Rolex Oyster
Perpetual Sky-Dweller.
WHAT IS AN ANNUAL CALENDAR?
What is an annual calendar, and why
is it, to me, the most pragmatic and
useful complication around? What you
need to know is that the Sky-Dweller
is genius-level smart despite its fun,
easy-going affability. Like a MENSAqualified
supermodel with an IQ of 162
who reads Martin Heidegger in her free
time and solves seemingly impossible
mathematical problems while performing
Ashtanga inversions, yet is laidback
enough to watch the game and have a
beer with you and your boys, the Sky-
Dweller is the total package. It is an
annual calendar watch that automatically
calculates which months in the year have
TECHNICAL 185

30 days and which months have 31 days. Meaning that as long as you
keep it wound, which is relatively easy considering how quickly its ultraefficient,
bi-directional rotor charges its barrel, you need only correct it
once each year on March 1st.
The annual calendar is derived from the perpetual calendar, which is
a watch capable of automatically compensating for the shifting 30/31-day
rhythm of the months as well as accounting for the 28 days in February,
and even knowing when the extra day every leap year is. The first watch
with a perpetual calendar mechanism was created in 1762 by British
watchmaker Thomas Mudge and became a popular feature of pocket
watches for discerning gentlemen the following century.
In contrast, the annual calendar was a relatively modern invention.
The first annual calendar was only unveiled in 1996. The rationale for its
creation was simple. By removing the mechanism related to the leap year
and adding the need to adjust the watch just once each year on March 1st,
the movement of the watch could be made more robust and less costly,
leading to a watch that is almost every bit as pragmatic as the perpetual
calendar but at a more accessible price.
In 2012, Rolex unveiled its first ever annual calendar with the Sky-
Dweller. As Rolex has always pursued the creation of the most reliable,
accurate and robust watch on the planet, it made sense that the company
ThefirstSky-
Dweller model
launched in 2012
would decide to focus on the more pragmatic annual
calendar rather than the perpetual calendar. Never
one to disappoint, Rolex’s annual calendar was a
level above anything that had come before in terms of
ease of use and robustness. When Rolex introduced
the caliber 9001 — one of the most complex calibers
ever created by Rolex watchmakers — for the Sky-
Dweller, it did so using an all-new display that made
reading the calendar information incredibly legible.
Amazingly, this watch received 14 patents despite
adding only four more gear wheels to its existing
caliber in order to create the annual calendar and
GMT functions.
DUAL TIMEZONE AND 24-HOUR DISPLAY
No brand has more legitimacy in the category of the
GMT watch than Rolex. In 1955, Rolex created the
very first watch with this complication known as the
GMT-Master, which was originally developed as a
navigation instrument for professionals crisscrossing
the globe. This amazing timepiece was developed soon
after Rolex became the official watch of Pan American
World Airways, better known worldwide as Pan Am,
the most prominent American intercontinental airline
at the time.
The key feature for this timepiece was an additional
GMT hand read off a stunning Bakelite bezel that
displayed time in a 24-hour format. The bezel was
subdivided into red and blue sections to differentiate
between day and night hours, and most importantly,
could be rotated to show time in a different zone. Since
then, Rolex has been synonymous with the multipletimezone
watch; most famously, the GMT-Master II,
heir to the original model that was unveiled in 1982,
which added the ability to decouple and advance or
retreat the hour hand for a new local time reading
without affecting the running of the seconds or the
minutes. This feature would make an appearance in
the incredible Sky-Dweller.
THE SKY-DWELLER DIAL
The dial of the Sky-Dweller is laid out in the following
way. Hours and minutes are told off the hands at the
center. The reference time or home-time display
sits inside of the dial in an off-center 24-hour disc.
A fixed inverted red triangle beneath the Rolex logo
points to the home time, which is always located at the
top position within this display.
Note that when the hands of the 24-hour display
are running together, this display becomes a highly
pragmatic a.m./p.m. indicator. However, the hands
can also be decoupled and quickset to a new local time
when you travel to a new timezone. Amazingly, thanks to
the Rolex jumping hour hand, the hour hand is adjusted
independently in one-hour increments, either forwards
and backwards, leaving the minute and seconds hands,
as well as the reference time, unchanged.
186 TECHNICAL

The 12 hour indexes on the Sky-Dweller also
serve as the 12 month indicators
Want a great example of Rolex’s attention to
detail? Check out how these hands are designed
so that they never block your view of the 24-hour
reference time ring.
Now the great irony in life is, when you reach a
point in your life when you can afford a complicated
watch, it’s usually at an age where your eyesight is
no longer optimal. Personally, I struggle to read the
calendar information on my watches.
Well, all except the Rolex Sky-Dweller. Why? It’s
because of the combination of large date magnified by
Rolex’s signature Cyclops lens and a very unique and
cool way of displaying the months.
Where exactly is the month indicator on the
Sky-Dweller? Good question. Because in all other
annual calendars, the month is always shown using
either an aperture with a disc or using a small hand
and a subdial.
But on the Rolex Sky-Dweller, you’ll notice that
the months of the year are indicated in 12 discreet
apertures around the circumference of the dial. You don’t see these
immediately because they are galvanically treated the same color as
the dial. There are a total of 12 hour indexes which also serve as the 12
month indicators, when the aperture corresponding to any given month
is filled with a contrasting red indication (in earlier watches, this could
be white for the chocolate-dial watches and black for the watches with
champagne or ivory-colored dials). When it is March, the aperture at the
three o’clock index will turn red and when it is November, the aperture
next to the 11 o’clock index will be red. You get it. While in previous dial
executions with Roman indexes, the apertures were slightly wider and
rectangular in shape, with the shift to baton-styled markers, the windows
for the month indicator of the Sky-Dweller are now all uniformly squareshaped
and the contrast is red in color regardless of the dial execution or
case material.
By using these unique apertures to capitalize on the hour indexes for
this double function of both hour and month indicators, Rolex achieved
two things. First, they created an extremely legible month indicator. At
the same time, without adding another window or subdial to the center of
the dial, Rolex left a clean, decluttered design which allowed them to also
maximize the visibility of the home-time indicator.
TECHNICAL 187

HOW TO SET AND USE THE ROLEX SKY-DWELLER
While most annual calendars necessitate you using
a series of pushers around the case, for Rolex, any
marring of the signature Oyster Perpetual case would
not be acceptable as it would mean an added risk and
compromises to water resistance. Instead, Rolex
devised a way to wind, set the date and month both
backwards and forwards, set the time, and set the
main hands to a second timezone, all while using just
the watch’s winding crown and rotatable bezel. It is
important to note that the Sky-Dweller presents the
specificity of having a synchronized instantaneous
annual calendar that is fully operated by the crown
and the bezel, and that can be adjusted both forwards
and backwards.
THE CROWN POSITIONS 0, 1 AND 2
The crown of the Sky-Dweller is Rolex’s famous
Twinlock crown, which has two sealed zones, one
inside the tube, the other inside the crown to provide
water resistance. In order to activate the crown, you
need to first fully unscrew it to its first position. When
it is screwed down, the Sky-Dweller is waterproof to
depths of 300 meters. In this fully screwed position,
the crown is considered to be in Position 0.
At Position 1, you can turn the crown to wind the
barrel — useful primarily if the watch has been sitting
for a long time and has stopped. However, once you start wearing the
Sky-Dweller, its ultra-efficient automatic-winding rotor will quickly
charge the movement. Note that the watch has approximately 72 hours of
power reserve when fully wound.
To set the calendar information and time, you need to pull the crown
to Position 2 (more on this later).
THE ROTATABLE BEZEL POSITIONS I, II AND III
The genius of Rolex is its capacity to take a complex mechanism like a
watch with a GMT indicator as well as a mighty annual calendar, and
make them so relatable and easy to use that they are genuinely fun to
play around with. One huge factor to this is that when Rolex engineers
any kind of watch, they go out of their way to ensure that the watches are
incredibly easy to use. Which is not the truth for the vast majority of other
watches. Want an example? Did you know that in most other watches
with date, if you try to set the date close to midnight when it is changing
over, the movements can get jammed? In contrast, you can set the date on
a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust at any hour.
Similarly, the Rolex Sky-Dweller is simple and easy. It’s actually
really fun to play around with this. And it’s impossible to damage the
watch by turning it too far forwards or backwards. The diagrams on this
spread show the different features of the watch and how to use them.
USING THE GMT FUNCTION
OK, so let’s look now at how the Sky-Dweller is such an awesome travel
watch. For example, you are traveling from Paris to London. Before you
disembark the plane, you can adjust the time backwards or earlier by an
Hour hand
Minute hand
Seconds hand
Reference time display on 24-hour disc
Date window
Month display in one of 12 windows
(January at one o’clock, February at two o’clock, etc.)
Bi-directional rotatable bezel
Twinlock winding crown with double
waterproofness system
188 TECHNICAL

SETTING THE REFERENCE/HOME TIME
You can turn the bezel at any time in either direction,
clockwise and counter-clockwise. If you turn it all the
way clockwise, you are in a neutral position or Position 0,
which means even if you unscrew the crown and pull it out,
nothing will happen.
The first thing you want to do when setting your Sky-
Dweller is turn the bezel all the way counterclockwise. To
be precise, that’s three clicks to the left, which will put you
in Position III. Now with the crown pulled all the way out
(Position 2), you set the time.
OK, this is the important part:
To set the hours, you do so with the 24-hour reference
time display in the center of the dial. Note that the
inverted red triangle will point out the correct hour
andthatyouwillneedtodistinguishbetweendayand
night hours. 10 a.m. is 10:00 while 10 p.m. is 22:00.
To set the minute, you use the main minute hand of the
watch. Also notice that in this mode, the seconds hand of
the watch is stopped, allowing you to set the time precisely.
SETTING THE LOCAL TIME
Now that your reference or home time is set, you should
turn the bezel one click to the right to Position II.
Here, you can move the hour hand either backwards or
forwards without disturbing the running of the watch. In
this mode, the seconds and minute hands continue to
run. This is so that later, if you want to set a new local
time when you are traveling, you can do so without
affecting the watch’s underlying timekeeping precision.
OK, what you want to do is move the hour hand so that
it is in sync with the reference time on the 24-hour disc.
You need to distinguish between a.m. and p.m. which you
can do by noticing if the date changes when you cross 12
o’clock. If it does, you are in a.m. hours and if it doesn’t,
youareinp.m.hours.Prettysimple,right?
Push in, then screw down
SETTING THE DATE AND MONTH
OK, now that your local time and reference of home time
are synchronized and showing the correct time, you need
to adjust the date and month.
So turn the bezel one more time to the right to find
PositionI.Now,byturningthecrown,youadvancethe
date forward or backward.
Note that the month, which is represented by the
aperture next to any of the hour indexes turning red,
follows the date forward or backward. Just try setting the
date from November 30th to December 1st, and you’ll
see what I mean. Now set the date backwards from 1
directly to 30 and you’ll see the red indicator jump from
theapertureat12o’clocktotheapertureat11o’clock.
*ThedateshownhereisAugust28th
TECHNICAL 189

hour. Say, you are traveling from Singapore to London, then you would
adjust the time backwards by seven hours. In either case, you just need
to put the bezel in Position II, unscrew and pull out the crown, and give it
the right number of turns.
DECIDING WHAT POSITION TO LEAVE THE BEZEL IN
Once all the timekeeping and calendar information is correctly set, you
can screw the crown back in. Regarding the position of the bezel, you can
restore it to what I consider the default neutral position or Position 0 to
the far right (clockwise three clicks).
But the fun thing with the Sky-Dweller is the more you play around
with it, the better you get at using it. The beauty of the Sky-Dweller is that
even if you are sitting on your couch and want to do a virtual trip around
the world, or just like looking at the apertures for the months changing
over, you can feel free to change the hands and the indicators as much as
you like.
The more you use it, the more you will master the Sky-Dweller
and learn to put the bezel in a position that best suits your needs. For
example, if you are getting ready to travel, you can already set it two clicks
to the left to Position II. This allows you to immediately access the GMT
function, and as soon as you get off the plane, you are ready to rock.
Finally, if you just need to advance or reverse the date, for example,
on March 1st, you can turn the bezel one click to the left from the neutral
position to Position I and you can immediately advance the date without
disturbing the watch’s timekeeping precision.
BUILT TO LAST
Let’s place this within the context that, at Rolex,
the objective is always to create the easiest to use
and most intuitive watches. It is also important that
functions can be activated while ensuring that the
watch is completely safe from being damaged.
The more complicated a watch becomes, the more
fragile it is in general. However, when Rolex decided
to create its first annual calendar watch, it knew it had
to also create an intuitive way of setting all information
in a watch that would be dependable. Part of this was
the use of gear wheels for all the calendar information,
which means they can be set backwards and forwards
with ease. However, while testing various ways to
array the setting functions, Rolex ended up inventing
the unique Ring Command system.
MORE ABOUT THE RING COMMAND SYSTEM
It is impossible to overstate how significant an
innovation the Ring Command system is for Rolex.
What’s great about the rotating bezel is that while
appearing exactly like any Oyster Perpetual Datejust
with its distinct fluted bezel, this element opens the
door to a whole new world of complications at Rolex.
The first Rolex with a characteristic and functional
The rotatable fluted bezel is controlled by
the crown, which in different positions, offers
up a number of different complications
190 TECHNICAL

The case of the Sky-
Dweller is descended
from the original
Oyster case patented
back in 1926
module involving both a planetary gear system and
a column wheel, which is activated when the crown
is pulled out. I find it somehow fitting that, in the
most accessibly priced Sky-Dweller model with an
Oystersteel case, the bezel is still made in gold, as
it underscores how epically valuable this element is
from a functional perspective.
rotatable bezel was the Yacht-Master II launched back in 2007. In this
watch, a bright blue Cerachrom (Rolex’s proprietary ceramic bezel
insert that is virtually impervious to scratches whilst offering excellent
polishability that gives it an exceptional, long-lasting lustre) bezel could
be turned one position to the left in order to access the regatta countdown
function. Using the crown, you could adjust the number of minutes for the
countdown (up to 10 minutes) because this varied from race to race.
Rolex clearly saw the pragmatic advantages of the rotating bezel,
which can turn a full 360 degrees and thus, could theoretically offer
setting positions for a vast number of complications. While the Ring
Command system seems like a simple and elegant solution, it is actually
belied by a vast amount of technical innovation and comprises a 50-part
THE CASE
The case of the Sky-Dweller is one of the most
complex cases ever created by Rolex, but it is still
descended in direct lineage from the original Oyster
case patented by Rolex back in 1926.
This design incorporates the following: 1) screwdown
crown; 2) screw-down caseback — with its
characteristic fluting that fits into a special tool
exclusive to Rolex watchmakers, so only they can
access the movement; and 3) screw-down bezel —
originally, the unique fluting on the bezel was used for
a tool to grip and turn it to lock it in place.
The modern Sky-Dweller features a 42mm case
diameter, which has also been selected by Rolex to
optimize visibility.
THE ROLESOR MODELS
It is important to know that all alloys for Rolex
watch cases are cast in-house by Rolex. There are
two materials that are used to create the watch
TECHNICAL 191

Everose gold, like all
gold alloys at Rolex,
is cast in-house at the
brand’s Plan-les-Ouates
facility
192 TECHNICAL

One of the most
beautiful executions of the Sky-Dweller is with
an Everose case.
cases for the Sky-Dweller model. These are gold
and Oystersteel.
In 2017, Rolex unveiled a Sky-Dweller in Rolesor,
Rolex’s signature marriage of Oystersteel and 18K
gold. There were two variations on the Rolesor theme
for the Sky-Dweller. The first was an Oystersteel case
with an 18K yellow gold bezel, crown, and center links
in the bracelet. This model came with an option of
champagne-colored, white or black dials.
The second model featured an Oystersteel case
with a white gold bezel. This model was a considerable
value proposition at USD 14,400, which was a full
third the price of the original model in 18K gold. This
model was offered in white, blue and black dials.
We should pause to discuss the material
Oystersteel. While all other brands use the industry
standard of 316L stainless steel, it is only Rolex that
uses 904L stainless steel. What is 904L steel, and
how is it distinguished from 316L steel? Well, it
features a much higher corrosion resistance as well as
a higher surface hardness than 316L. Since inception,
the tradition at Rolex has always been to research the
way their watches wear over time. And they found
that with hard use, their watches, like others made
from traditional stainless steel, would experience
corrosion in the threads of the caseback and the
caseback itself because of the buildup of sweat and
moisture. 904L steel was selected as a new material
because of its resistance to acids. Specially developed
by Rolex, Oystersteel is not only extremely resistant,
but also offers an exceptional sheen. Rolex watches
manufactured with this special steel retain their beauty even when
exposed to the most extreme conditions.
Developed by Rolex and manufactured exclusively for the brand,
each Oystersteel casting undergoes in-house quality control in Rolex’s
Central Laboratory and then is scanned with an electron microscope
for any imperfections, including any structural or surface defect. After
inspection, the steel is re-melted in a vacuum to purify it and remove
inclusions that would compromise its corrosion resistance. As you can
see, Rolex’s focus is on creating watches that will endure forever. Why do
other brands not use 904L? Because it is much harder to machine and
requires special tools to do so. Since 2003, all Rolex steel watches have
been using the 904L-based Oystersteel.
THE EVEROSE MODELS
As mentioned, all gold watches at Rolex are made from alloys that are cast
in-house at Rolex’s Plan-les-Ouates facility. I’ve had the opportunity
to visit, and I can say that it is sincerely awesome to witness the foundry
melting gold down before it is mixed to create the signature alloys. Gold
watches are not pure 24K gold. This would render the cases too soft to be
pragmatic. At Rolex, gold watches are 18K gold, which means a minimum
of 75 percent pure gold. In 2005, Rolex took the step to create their
very own patented pink-gold alloy called Everose. Why? Because they
discovered that over time, traditional pink gold starts to lose its color
and ends up looking quite similar to yellow gold. As with the creation
of Cerachrom bezel inserts, it is clear that Rolex like their watches to
endure forever. And so, Rolex set about creating an alloy of pink gold that
would never fade in color, intensity or hue over time. But if you thought
that Rolex would ever reveal the exact recipe, you don’t know Rolex. The
first watch to receive an Everose case was the Cosmograph Daytona in
2005. One of the most beautiful executions of the Sky-Dweller is with an
Everose case. As of this year, the watch is available in a matching Everose
TECHNICAL 193

The Oysterflex
bracelet is simple in
aesthetics but complex
in its making
bracelet model, with dials in bronze, white and gray, and a model with
the ultra cool rubber Oysterflex bracelet, which brings an added sporty
dimension to the Sky-Dweller. The combination of an Everose case with
an Oysterflex bracelet is available with all three colored dials as well.
THE OYSTER BRACELET
Since its introduction, the Sky-Dweller has been fitted with an Oyster
bracelet. This bracelet features the Easylink rapid extension system that
allows you to add 5mm in size to the bracelet for additional comfort.
This may not seem like much but a person’s wrist swells throughout the
day depending on their activity, the time of day and even temperature
and humidity. The Easylink system can provide a significant relief to
a watch that may have felt like the perfect fit in the beginning of a cold
morning. The Oyster bracelet also has a new concealed attachment
system beneath the bezel for seamless continuity from
the case and bracelet.
THE OYSTERFLEX BRACELET
Whilst aesthetically simple and understated, the
reality of the Oysterflex bracelet is far more complex.
The idea was this: rubber straps, while practical
for sports, tend to lack any real structure, causing
watches fitted with them to tend to move around the
wrist. Rolex’s Oysterflex bracelet addresses this issue
perfectly. First, the bracelet starts as thin, flexible
blades of titanium-nickel alloy. Next, they are overmolded
with a special black elastomer, which gives
them the appearance of rubber straps when they are
194 TECHNICAL

actually, in truth, bracelets with proper structure. For added comfort
and air circulation, Rolex has even added longitudinal cushions into the
strap that stabilize the watch on the wrist, and fitted the strap with an
Oysterlock safety clasp that prevents accidental opening. The result is
the perfect rubber bracelet. All Oysterflex bracelets also feature Rolex’s
Glidelock technology, which allows you to fine-adjust the bracelet size by
increments of 2.5mm for a total of 15mm.
As of this year, the Sky-Dweller in 18K yellow and Everose gold now
comes with an option of the Oysterflex bracelet. That is, the 18K yellow
gold watches with dials in white, champagne and bright black, and the
18K Everose gold watches with chocolate, white and dark rhodium dials.
The caliber 9001
CALIBER 9001
When the Sky-Dweller was unveiled in 2012, watch
aficionados were desperate to understand how the
movement functioned. We were told that the entire
annual calendar mechanism comprised of just four
more wheels which, of course, was typical Rolex
understatement because, in truth, the caliber 9001
powering the Sky-Dweller was the single most
complex movement the brand had ever created,
comprising 380 parts and holding 14 patents.
The annual calendar mechanism is driven by what
Rolex calls the Saros. Saros is the Greek word for the
astronomical cycle of alignment patterns between
the Sun, the Earth and the Moon which governs the
recurrence of eclipses. Similarly, in Rolex’s Saros
planetary gear system, there are three main parts:
- a main satellite wheel for the date
- a planetary wheel for the months
- a second satellite wheel for the months that
have 30 days
The Saros system is made up of three parts: the main satellite wheel for the date, the
planetary wheel for the months and a second satellite wheel for the months with 30 days
This is how Rolex’s incredible Saros annual
calendar works. A satellite wheel engages a fixed
planetary wheel over one month. This satellite
wheel is driven by the date disc, and it engages
with a second satellite wheel that has four fingers.
Each of these four fingers corresponds to the
four months that have 30 days, specifically, April,
June, September and November (or 4, 6, 9 and
11 when displayed on the Sky-Dweller).
At the stroke of midnight on the 30th day of each
of these months, this finger flicks the date disc to
change over by two days, which to the eye appears as
if the 30th of these months is transitioning directly
to the 1st of the next month. Because the entire Saros
system is based on planetary gears and discs, it can
move backwards and forwards instantaneously.
As with all Rolex movements, despite its
complexity, the caliber 9001 is built to offer the
best performance in terms of accuracy, reliability
and shock resistance. Accordingly, it uses a free-
TECHNICAL 195

sprung balance wheel equipped with gold Microstella
nuts. The balance wheel is fitted to a blue Parachrom
hairspring, made from niobium, zirconium and oxygen,
that is not affected by magnetism and that is 10 times more
shock resistant than a traditional metal balance spring.
The balance is mounted on a staff that is held in place by
jewels fitted with Rolex Parashock anti-shock devices that
are up to 50 percent more shock resistant than traditional
devices. The balance is held on a full traversing balance
bridge which offers greater stability than a balance cock.
The balance bridge features a special screw to raise or lower
the balance for perfect engagement with the escapement.
The rotor is mounted on ceramic ball bearing for
ultra efficient winding, and the movement beats at 4Hz or
28,800vph.
Like all Rolex’s movements, the movements of the Sky-
Dweller are first sent to the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des
Chronomètres (COSC) for certification as chronometers.
Rolex is the only one of three watch brands that undergoes a
double certification process. Movements are sent to COSC
facilities in Biel and Saint-Imier. They are tested for a total
of 15 days, in five different positions with three temperature
variations and must stay within a maximum deviation of −4/+6
seconds a day. Once the movements pass the test, they are sent
back to Rolex with their certifications. The watches are cased
and then these completed watches are tested again to Rolex’s
standards of −2/+2 seconds per day. Since 2015, 100 percent
of Rolex watches are tested in this way.
So there you have it — the Sky-Dweller, which is joined this
year by versions fitted with Rolex’s epic Oysterflex bracelet,
is a watch designed as the ultimate companion piece for
the global traveler. But because it is so fun, easy to use and
waterproof, it is actually a watch that is relevant to everybody.
It is a complicated watch but one that is incredibly reliable and
effortlessly good-looking. It is, in other words, a Rolex.
196 TECHNICAL

TECHNICAL 197
The current collection
of the Rolex Oyster
Perpetual Sky-Dweller

WristCheck’s
Austen Chu
Leading a brave new generation
of watch collectors.
Words Wei Koh
A
usten Chu, otherwise known by his Instagram nom de plume
Horoloupe, sees the Matrix — meaning that he is able to
identify the signs of the impending future, and analyze and react
to them before others do. And what he sees is an entire new generation
of watch collectors waiting in the wings, about to emerge from the
chrysalis and become dominant consumers of horological finery.
“Basically, all the kids who in their teens and 20s were obsessed
with streetwear, and spent tons of money on clothing and sneakers,
and were addicted to websites like Hypebeast and Highsnobiety,are
now in their 30s. And they are all becoming obsessed with watches,”
says Chu. Unlike other more conservative demographics who grew up
with the idea of saving their money, many of these wealthy or well-paid
millennials — many of whom are based in Southeast Asia, especially
Hong Kong and Singapore — are willing to sink a substantial amount of
their net worth into their watch collection.
“They are not dumb,” says Chu. “They understand appreciable
assets and that with interest rates at an all-time low, they would be silly
to leave their money in the bank where it can’t even keep up with the
inflation rate. So, they are looking for investments that they can have fun
198 TASTEMAKERS

with. Cars, definitely, but those are crazily expensive in
Singapore and Hong Kong. Most importantly, because of
taxes, they are not aligned with universal pricing around
the world, so they’re bad for reselling; and because of
import laws, they’re bad for acquiring. Also, watches are
more fun in that you have your watch on you all the time
— at the gym, at the club, at dinner… during all the key
moments of socializing — whereas your friends see your
car, what, 20 percent of the time you’re with each other?”
Chu pauses for a second to reflect and adds, “What
people don’t understand is that this audience might be
dressed in streetwear, but their outfit is super curated
and is probably way more expensive than your average
businessman’s suit. In the same way they approach
clothes, they approach watches with a geeked-out
mentality that involves studying and gaining that crucial
knowledge. Do you really think it’s easy to learn every
reference of Air Jordan there is? Actually, it’s incredibly
tough, but that’s the appeal — which is the same appeal
they get from memorizing every Patek or Audemars
Piguet reference.”
Despite the potential of this new audience — let’s
call them the former Hypebeasts of the world — the
conservative watch world and its associated media
have been very slow to respond to them. And that
was precisely the glitch in the matrix that Chu saw,
and which inspired him to create WristCheck, armed
with the mission to inspire the next generation of
watch enthusiasts.
He explains, “So you’ve got this audience. They’ve
got money, they’ve got a desire to learn, they are used to
knowledge-based collecting, they’re willing to spend,
and yet there is no one talking to them. With all due
respect to a dominant industry website, which I think
was an incredible pioneer back in the day, no one I know
connects with them and the way they write their stories
today. It just feels like middle-aged white guys trying to
tell us what’s cool. Look at their roster. So it’s kind of
a cultural and generational gap, and I thought I should
produce the content to appeal to my generation.”
We should back up here to acknowledge the fact
that despite Chu’s impressive track record as a serial
entrepreneur who started his first company at 15 years of
age, represented Audemars Piguet as an ambassador and
even designed a limited edition watch with them, as of
last December, Austen Chu was a mere 24 years of age.
“That’s the thing about my generation: we are not
intimidated by age,” says Chu. “We don’t see this as
a hurdle where we have to take a job and slowly work
our way up the corporate ladder for 30 years. We see
opportunities and we take them.”
The opportunity Chu saw was to create a whole new
platform that communicates to his generation with a tone
and style that is still knowledge-based and substantive,
but which shakes up the world of watch media. In order
to do that, he knew exactly where to look.
Chu says, “The WristCheck content team is made up entirely
of guys who are not just passionate about watches, but seriously
impressive at photography and videography. We also intend to be
a transactional platform.” On that note, joining Chu as his partner
is Sean Wong, the former senior vice president of e-commerce at
Hypebeast, who ran their e-commerce platform.
“One pillar of WristCheck is transparency, so the buyer knows
what the seller netted and vice versa. We are transparent about
how much we make as a platform, and even break down our fees so
customers know where every dollar goes to,” explains Chu. “This made
sense to me because, to begin with, most of the models my audience
will be looking for are the watches that are never readily available at the
retailers but that can be bought on the secondary market. I’m talking,
of course, about your Rolex Daytonas, Patek 5711s, Royal Oak 15202s
and Richard Mille RM 11s. Most of the watches we offer are consigned
and we’ve done deals with authorized service centers here in Hong
Kong to make sure that every watch is checked and authenticated.
“At the same time, I want to bring a real sense of curation based on
actual watch knowledge and my personal taste. So, for example, I might
see that a certain watch reference is undervalued in the market and
offer a really great collection of the best pieces of this reference. We will
create content explaining why I think this watch has so much investment
potential because it is a key reference in watch design history.”
When asked how he feels WristCheck distinguishes itself from other
entrenched pre-owned businesses, Chu says, “Well, first of all, we are
as focused on content creation as we are on sales. In these early stages,
we are focused on pre-owned. But who knows what can happen after
that? What Hypebeast showed us is that when you become the dominant
communication channel to an important audience, brands will need to
respond. But, just as importantly, WristCheck is also an experiencedriven
company. We are opening our first shop in Landmark in Central,
Hong Kong. Our location is between Louis Vuitton and Tiffany &
Co.. Many companies wanted this space, but the landlords wanted us
to be there because they know we can draw a different and important
demographic to their mall. Our shop is totally not transactional in
appearance. It’s a hangout, a club with interactive screens where
learning about watches and trying them on with your friends is fun.”
Closing the loop, WristCheck will also offer insurance on watches
for customers based in Hong Kong (as well as Singapore and Thailand
later in the year) — all done digitally. Chu explains, “Our highest rate
for our insurance is 1.375 percent of the price of your watch. And our
insurance also protects against damage, like if you accidentally dent
your bezel on a night out at the club.” He smiles, “At WristCheck, we
know our customers because we live the same life as them. Even the
name of our company comes from a social-media hashtag that our
community loves to use. It’s a laidback and fun term that references
serious watches.”
He adds with a smile, “The future is coming and it’s coming fast.”
I am inclined to agree.
TASTEMAKERS 199

Vivian Stauffer,
Hamilton CEO
Smartflyer SFX1 prototype
hybrid-electric aircraft
New Pioneers of Flight
Hamilton and Smartflyer take to the air with the goal of
emission-free flying.
Words Bhanu Chopra
Hamilton’s story is full of firsts. They were at the
forefront of developing timepieces that would
help synchronize the rail system in 1912, making
train travel safer. They were the first to create an electric
timepiece in 1957 with the unique shield-shaped
Ventura. In 1969, Hamilton played a pivotal role in the
creation of the caliber 11 — the world’s first automatic
chronograph. Their Pulsar Time Computer, revealed on
The Tonight Show in 1970, was the first digital watch with
an LED display.
Hamilton also has a long history of injecting their
old-fashioned American spirit and Swiss precision into
the exploration of our world. Beginning a kinship for the
flying community that would carry them to the present
day, the first US Airmail pilots were accompanied by a
Hamilton aeronautical watch in 1918. When Admiral
Richard E. Byrd completed the first flight to the North
Pole, he timed his historic flight with a Hamilton watch.
Hamilton supported the aviators with precision
tool watches as they made their first Pacific
crossing from California to Hawaii.
Vivian Stauffer, CEO of Hamilton, is an
experienced pilot and an avid outdoor explorer
in his own right. With Stauffer at the helm,
Hamilton is helping to launch another first for
the aviation industry: hybrid-electric flight.
In 2016, a team of passionate aviation
experts and engineers headed by Rolf Stuber
began to work on the concept of Smartflyer, a
hybrid-electric aircraft. Their efforts resulted
in the successful creation of the prototype
SFX1, a four-seat aircraft that uses electric
technology to generate 50 percent less carbon
dioxide, 60 percent less noise, and costs
33 percent less to fuel and maintain than
traditional small planes. The award-winning
design is slated to begin production for the
first hybrid-electric engines in our airspace in
2023, and Hamilton will be there to support yet
another pioneering first.
Stauffer is aware of the significance and
emphasized, “For over a century, we’ve
acted as copilot to daring aviators, and we’re
excited to continue our legacy of innovation by
partnering with Smartflyer. Just as Hamilton’s
pioneering spirit inspires us to push the
limits of watchmaking, the sky will only be the
beginning for the revolutionary SFX1. With
a shared focus on precision, we’ll take this
cutting-edge technology from the drawing
board to aerospace itself.”
200 THE FINAL WORD

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