25.09.2020 Views

COVID-19 Snapshots

Millions of workers in garment supply chains world-wide have not been paid their full wages during the pandemic or have lost their jobs without adequate financial compensation. We call upon brands to take responsibility for the workers that make their clothes and ensure that workers are paid what they are owed. Read more about how workers in global supply chains, especially those of H&M, Primark, and Nike, have been affected in the livelihood by the pandemic and join us in asking brands: Do you #PayYourWorkers?

Millions of workers in garment supply chains world-wide have not been paid their full wages during the pandemic or have lost their jobs without adequate financial compensation. We call upon brands to take responsibility for the workers that make their clothes and ensure that workers are paid what they are owed. Read more about how workers in global supply chains, especially those of H&M, Primark, and Nike, have been affected in the livelihood by the pandemic and join us in asking brands: Do you #PayYourWorkers?

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What does the <strong>COVID</strong>-<strong>19</strong><br />

wage gap mean for<br />

garment workers?


Content<br />

#PayYourWorkers<br />

live-blog statistics<br />

h&m<br />

primark<br />

nike<br />

UN(DER)PAID IN THE PANDEMIC<br />

national struggle in cambodia<br />

covid-<strong>19</strong> strikes everywhere


#PayYourWorkers<br />

Disruption of supply chains, cancellations of orders, and often hastily<br />

imposed lockdowns in garment producing countries have gravely<br />

impacted garment workers’ livelihoods.<br />

With poverty wages being the norm in the garment industry, millions of<br />

women workers were already struggling to feed their families, and<br />

deeply in debt.<br />

While thousands of factories were closed for weeks or even months<br />

during the <strong>COVID</strong>-<strong>19</strong> pandemic, many of the workers received only a<br />

portion of their regular wages, if they were paid at all.


#PayYourWorkers<br />

Our research published in August shows that in some countries<br />

workers received less than 25% of their regular wages in April and<br />

workers globally may have an estimated shortfall of income between 3.2<br />

and 5.8 billion USD during the first three months of the pandemic.<br />

Apparel brands and retailers need to do two things to<br />

ensure the workers who make their clothes are paid<br />

during and beyond this crisis:<br />

1. #PayUp in full on orders placed before the pandemic.<br />

2. #PayYourWorkers : Make sure all workers are paid<br />

their regular income during the pandemic by committing<br />

to the wage assurance and joining a severance guarantee<br />

fund.


#PayYourWorkers<br />

The #PayUp campaign has swayed over twenty brands to commit to<br />

paying for their orders that were in production at the start of the<br />

pandemic. Many of these brands retreated from the order<br />

cancellations they had initially imposed on their suppliers, meaning<br />

that workers could at least be paid some of what they were owed.<br />

It's time for brands to take the next step. We have asked them kindly<br />

since June. What are brands waiting for? Workers can't wait.<br />

H&M, Primark, and Nike, the brands featured in this report, are some<br />

of the most regularly named supply chains when workers raise their<br />

voice about not being paid or facing dismissal. Workers also name<br />

many other apparel brands and retailers that have left workers unpaid<br />

in their supply chains, including Bestseller (Jack & Jones), Next,<br />

Arcadia (Topshop) and Inditex (Zara).<br />

To hold brands accountable, we all need to show that it is unacceptable<br />

that workers are left unpaid during the pandemic. It's time for action.


#PayYourWorkers<br />

Beyond wages: Union busting<br />

The growing economic insecurity caused by the pandemic<br />

means that union-busting is on the rise. Union members face<br />

discrimination and retaliation in many factories, and a lot of<br />

these trade unionists have been dismissed because they raise<br />

concerns over non-payment of wages, lack of proper<br />

implementation of social distancing and sanitation, or, simply,<br />

because this crisis is as good a chance as any to get rid of a<br />

union. Often fired workers will not receive the severance they<br />

are legally owed and they have little chance to find a new job<br />

quickly in the current job market, leaving them penniless.


#PayYourWorkers<br />

Shutterstock/Sk Hasan Ali<br />

Beyond wages: Safety<br />

Many workers have to work in unsafe factories. Where the<br />

improper use or storage of hazardous chemicals and unsafe<br />

factory buildings were a problem before the pandemic,<br />

cramped working conditions and a lack of hygienic facilities<br />

can make factories dangerous places to be during the<br />

pandemic. Brands need to protect their workers.<br />

Here is a full list of what brands should do.


#PayYourWorkers<br />

“Brands and retailers must take swift action to ensure that<br />

the workers who enabled their profits receive<br />

the wages they are owed. As brands are responsible for<br />

structural inequalities in supply chains that have left garment<br />

workers in destitution, each brand must publicly commit to<br />

taking responsibility for workers’ wages. Brands should then<br />

work together to establish funds and take out loans if<br />

necessary to cover workers’ wages.”<br />

Labour Education Foundation Director Khalid Mahmood from<br />

Pakistan in an op-ed for Reuters


Before the pandemic<br />

hit, brands already<br />

cut down on prices,<br />

leaving workers with<br />

poverty wages.<br />

During the lockdowns<br />

they cancelled<br />

orders, leaving<br />

workers unpaid.<br />

Still, many workers<br />

are underpaid as<br />

brands are cautious in<br />

placing orders.<br />

Workers are left unpaid


live-blog statistics<br />

Clean Clothes Campaign has collected reports from the media and our<br />

network on how the pandemic influenced garment workers world-wide.<br />

The wave of order cancellations from March onwards, when most of the<br />

headquarter countries started going into lockdown, severely exacerbated<br />

the already dire situation of garment workers.<br />

The live-blog that we have continuously updated since 17 March provides<br />

snapshots of the implications of the pandemic and primarily contains<br />

information from the regions where our network is the strongest.


live-blog statistics<br />

<strong>COVID</strong>-<strong>19</strong><br />

related<br />

labour<br />

violation<br />

cases in the<br />

garment<br />

industry<br />

The factory-level violations reported in our live-blog form the tip of an<br />

iceberg of cases that have not reached us - because workers were<br />

afraid to speak up, unaware who to reach out to, or the media failed to<br />

pick up their case.<br />

In the first six months of the pandemic - we took a sample from 17<br />

March to 5 September - we noted <strong>19</strong>3 cases of worker rights<br />

violations.


live-blog statistics<br />

The most frequently reported issue was non-payment of wages. Among<br />

72 such cases reported on the live-blog H&M, C&A, Next, Arcadia<br />

(Topshop), PVH (Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger), and Primark were named<br />

most often.<br />

This shows that the ongoing responsibility of brands extends beyond<br />

the payment of orders: three of these brands - H&M, PVH, and Next -<br />

already indicated in March and April that they would pay for all orders<br />

despite their earlier cancellations. Nevertheless, workers in their supply<br />

chains were left without an income during the pandemic.<br />

Workers need an assurance that they will be paid by the brands<br />

wielding the power over the supply chain.


live-blog statistics<br />

Workers who are not paid might still retain their jobs for the future,<br />

but in many cases workers are simply laid off en masse, either<br />

because factories are bankrupt, to keep from paying mandatory<br />

bonuses, or to get rid of unwanted workers such as union members.<br />

In times of severely shrinking employment opportunities, in countries<br />

where unemployment insurance or other forms of social safety nets<br />

are absent, dismissal often means hunger.


live-blog statistics<br />

Major brands' rights violations<br />

during <strong>COVID</strong>-<strong>19</strong><br />

The live-blog gives valuable insights into which labour rights violations<br />

started to spike during the pandemic:<br />

non-payment of wages, mass dismissals, disregard of health and safety,<br />

and union busting. It also shows which brands kept on being named<br />

over and over again, they include H&M and Primark. One of the supply<br />

chains where workers organised most because they were affected en<br />

masse, is Nike.


live-blog statistics<br />

The large majority of these workers will not have access to the<br />

severance payments they are legally entitled to, as these should be<br />

paid by the employer, who often initiated the dismissals out of<br />

financial hardship. Enforcement of this mandatory pay is also<br />

generally lacking.<br />

In the cases of mass-dismissal and non-payment of severance reported<br />

in our live-blog during this period, H&M, Inditex (Zara), Bestseller<br />

(Vero Moda), Mango, C&A, and PVH were named most often.


live-blog statistics<br />

A breakdown of worker rights violations at H&M, Primark<br />

and Nike reported to the live-blog.


h&m<br />

When we have heard about cases of non-payment of wages or<br />

mass-dismissal during the pandemic, the brand most often<br />

mentioned is H&M: one of the biggest fast fashion brands in the<br />

world. H&M paid up on orders at an early stage but has forgotten<br />

that this is not enough to ensure that workers receive their full<br />

regular wage during the pandemic.


h&m - WINDY<br />

Garment workers have held a symbolic hunger strike calling for the<br />

reinstatement of workers in the Windy Group, which supplies to H&M<br />

and Zara. Three thousand workers have been retrenched in the three<br />

only unionised factories of the Windy Group. When workers from<br />

Saybolt Tex Ltd factory tried to engage in union activities, all 1600<br />

workers were retrenched by management. At Windy Wet & Dry Process<br />

Ltd., 200 workers were dismissed after submitting union papers for<br />

registration to the Labour Ministry. At Tanaz Fashion Ltd., 1200<br />

workers were dismissed after starting to unite in order to form a union.


h&m - WINDY<br />

These workers were not only denied their right to organise and speak<br />

out, they also failed to receive their legally owed wages and severance.<br />

In Saybold Tex, workers received 60% of their April wages from a<br />

government fund, however, since factories are not legally entitled to<br />

government incentive if they lay off workers, no full wages have been<br />

paid since. The retrenched workers also failed to receive the<br />

compensation they were legally owed. In Tanaz Fashion, workers<br />

received only 60% of their May salary and did not receive full<br />

compensation upon retrenchment.


h&m - WINDY<br />

"H&M and Zara supplier WINDY group victimized<br />

3000 garment workers by illegal factory closure<br />

and retrenchment during this Corona crisis. They<br />

even did not pay the legal compensation. These<br />

3000 workers are now unemployed, they will have<br />

trouble finding a new job and are facing hunger."<br />

Amirul Haque Amin, President of the National<br />

Garment Workers federation


H&M has said that:<br />

“Due to the lockdown in Bangladesh, as well as the drop in customer<br />

demand that fashion brands and buyers have experienced as a result<br />

of <strong>COVID</strong>-<strong>19</strong>, the supplier you refer to has partially closed down two<br />

units that produce for, among others, H&M Group. All workers<br />

affected by the layoffs have been compensated in accordance with<br />

national legislation and agreements with trade unions.”<br />

We want to know from H&M - What are you doing to ensure<br />

justice for these workers?<br />

Fazlur Rahman, aged 35.<br />

Tanaz Fashion.<br />

Fired.<br />

He borrows money from<br />

colleagues who still have their<br />

jobs to support his family with<br />

two children.<br />

Who is affected?<br />

h&m - WINDY


h&m - WINDY<br />

Who is affected?<br />

Taslima Begum, aged 25.<br />

Saybolt Tex.<br />

Fired.<br />

She used to work up to <strong>19</strong><br />

hours per day to increase her<br />

wage of 8000 BDT (94 USD) to<br />

14,500 BDT (171 USD)<br />

a month to support her<br />

mother and son living in the<br />

countryside.<br />

via Dagens Nyheter


h&m - ECC II<br />

A case of mass dismissal in India grabbed public attention when<br />

a video of protesting workers went viral in June 2020.<br />

Garment workers from the Euro Clothing Company II factory, owned by<br />

Gokaldas Exports, were demonstrating outside the factory daily,<br />

following a surprise announcement on 6 June that all 1,200 workers of<br />

the unionised factory would be laid off as of 8 June, without legally<br />

required government approval. This happened despite the fact that<br />

this factory solely supplied H&M, a brand that had committed to<br />

paying suppliers in full for orders completed or in production.<br />

Image via New Trade Union Initiative


h&m - WINDY<br />

“They did not even give us<br />

notice.<br />

They told us they’ve stopped<br />

receiving orders from H&M.”<br />

Kumar (Worker at ECC II)<br />

via VICE News


h&m - ECC II<br />

The union had become a nuisance for the factory owners as it<br />

challenged the underpayment of workers during the pandemic. When<br />

the factory reopened after the lockdown in May, workers who were<br />

able to return to the factory to work were only paid 50% of their<br />

already poverty-level wages.<br />

Those who had to stay at home, because public transportation<br />

remained suspended following the government declared nationwide<br />

lockdown, received nothing at all. After the closure of the factory in<br />

June and the start of the protest, the management has indicated that<br />

it will only pay severance to the workers who agree to resign.


h&m - WINDY<br />

“I have sweated here for the past 10 years<br />

for 348 rupees [$4.60] day.<br />

They wanted to get rid of the union for a<br />

long time, and now they’re using <strong>COVID</strong>-<strong>19</strong> as<br />

an excuse.”<br />

Padma - Union Leader and Worker at ECC II<br />

via Thomson Reuters Foundation


"Two factory officials came to a<br />

worker's residence in<br />

Pandavapura coercing them to<br />

resign, saying that the factory will<br />

not open again. They had lists of<br />

details of other workers who were<br />

in the unit."<br />

h&m - WINDY<br />

Jayaram KR, from the Garment and Textile<br />

Workers Union (GATWU)<br />

via The News Minute.


h&m - ecc ii<br />

“We are living on borrowed money. We<br />

have been unable to get other jobs<br />

because of the coronavirus pandemic. We<br />

have to borrow money to pay our rent and<br />

feed our children.”<br />

Lakshmamma (Sewing operator at ECC II)<br />

via The News Minute


h&m - ECC II<br />

H&M has officially said that the company was in dialogue with the<br />

union and the management of Euro Clothing. In the meantime,<br />

however, factory officials intimidated workers, successfully coercing<br />

them to resign and defaming the unions involved.<br />

What is H&M doing to make sure workers are paid and reinstated?


h&m - ecc ii<br />

“We are now losing our hopes. I am<br />

depending only on this job. My family<br />

[runs] on my earnings. From April I<br />

am getting only half salary, it’s so<br />

difficult.”<br />

Sobha - Secing operator at ECC II<br />

via Eco-Age


primark<br />

Primark tried to dodge the responsibility to pay for orders by<br />

promising a wage fund. Only months later did the company finally<br />

commit to paying its suppliers in full. Now we want to know, can<br />

Primark prove that the workers who sew its clothes actually<br />

received their full regular wages during factory closures?


primark - mass protests in<br />

bangladesh<br />

Image: Workers block a<br />

highway on 13 April 2020<br />

during a wage protest. These<br />

are not the same workers as<br />

mentioned below.<br />

Shutterstock/Sk Hasan Ali.<br />

In April and May, workers in Bangladesh took to the streets and<br />

blocked highways to protest the government's decision that factories<br />

would have to pay workers only 60-65% of their wages.<br />

On 9 and 10 May, around 4,000 workers from Primark suppliers Doreen<br />

Apparels Ltd and Doreen Garments Ltd factories in Dhaka, blocked a<br />

highway demanding their full April wage. Workers urged that the<br />

factories reopen, after they were closed for an indefinite period,<br />

hoping that that would mean they could earn their full salaries again.<br />

The workers withdrew when management assured that the factories<br />

would open soon.


primark - mass protests<br />

“From the first week of March, our line-in charge said,<br />

the situation is not good in China, the factory cannot<br />

import raw materials, the buyers are not interested to<br />

order anymore and even they want to cancel the order<br />

we already have done. We were in fear from then on. ...<br />

On March 25, the factory management called 10<br />

operators of the cutting section along with me to the<br />

admin office after lunch. When I saw the bundles of<br />

money on the table, I understood we are going to<br />

being dismissed..."<br />

A garment worker in a Primark supplier factory<br />

in Bangladesh


primark - mass protests<br />

“The officer said that the factory cannot keep you<br />

because of lack of the orders. So, we have to<br />

dismiss non-permanent workers like you people.<br />

... We requested them and told, if we lost the job<br />

how we will survive, what we will eat, how we will<br />

pay house rent? But the officer replied, we<br />

cannot do anything, we cannot afford to keep you<br />

in work anymore. ... The management gave me<br />

11,453 BDT [134 USD] in total, and told me not to<br />

come back.”<br />

A garment worker in a Primark supplier factory<br />

in Bangladesh


Image: Workers block a<br />

highway on 15 April 2020<br />

during a wage protest. These<br />

are not the same workers as<br />

mentioned below.<br />

Shutterstock/Sk Hasan Ali.<br />

primark - mass protests in<br />

bangladesh<br />

Other workers in Primark's supply chain also took to the streets on the<br />

same days. Workers from Rose Intimates Ltd, which also supplies other<br />

major brands such as Bestseller, Matalan and Peacocks, joined protests<br />

demanding full payment of wages and the possibility to get back to<br />

work. Later in the same month, over 300 workers - one third of the<br />

workforce - was dismissed. These workers only received a part of the<br />

compensation they were legally owed.


primark - mass protests<br />

“I always live hand to mouth. The income and the cost<br />

are always almost equal. I reduce my food cost to send<br />

more money to my daughter and my mother. I have<br />

nothing to reduce or to curtail. I’m at the border line<br />

... When my neighbours go to their factories, I look at<br />

them. I can’t stop my tears ... From whom could I<br />

borrow money? I’m an orphan, my father passed away<br />

when I was an infant, my maternal uncles are also very<br />

poor day-labourers.”<br />

A garment worker in a Primark supplier factory<br />

in Bangladesh


Image: Workers block a<br />

highway on 13 April 2020<br />

during a wage protest. These<br />

are not the same workers as<br />

mentioned below.<br />

Shutterstock/Sk Hasan Ali.<br />

primark - mass protests in<br />

bangladesh<br />

Workers of Fakir Knitwears Ltd. supplying to Primark and H&M<br />

protested to receive an advance of 50% of their May wages and<br />

bonuses before the Eid-ul-Fitr holiday on 24 May.<br />

The factory management promised to pay the wages on time, but<br />

instead filed false criminal charges of vandalism against 100-150<br />

workers of the factory, accusing them of damaging valuable factory<br />

property. In response, the police arrested two workers. In June,<br />

workers therefore continued to protest the arrest of their colleagues<br />

and demand their reinstatement.


primark - mass protests<br />

Wage protests also continued in June: hundreds of workers of Primark<br />

supplier KAC Fashionwear Limited blocked a highway demanding to<br />

return to work and be paid full salaries. Even after the lockdown ended,<br />

only 500 out of 6000 workers were back at work and paid.<br />

“After paying the salary of April, the company told us to stay at<br />

home since many orders have been cancelled. They promised the<br />

workers who were sent to layoff that they will pay them a minimum<br />

salary. But now they are paying only to the 500 workers who are<br />

working currently. The company took our identity cards while<br />

paying the last salary saying they need it for so-called official<br />

documentation. They are denying now to give our ID cards back,<br />

which means our jobs are not secured here anymore.”<br />

Bokul Hossain, garment worker at KAC Fashionwear Limited<br />

via United News of Bangladesh


Image: Workers block a<br />

highway in May 2020 in Dhaka<br />

during a wage protest. These<br />

are not the same workers as<br />

mentioned above.<br />

Shutterstock/Sk Hasan Ali.<br />

primark - mass protests in<br />

bangladesh<br />

In most cases we last heard from these workers in May and June and we<br />

want to know now from Primark: What happened since? Have they<br />

received the wages they were owed?


primark - Kassim<br />

On 15 June, workers protesting the dismissal<br />

of 35 of their co-workers at the Primark<br />

supplier Kassim Garments in Karachi,<br />

Pakistan, were fired at by the factory guards.<br />

Four workers were injured and rushed to the<br />

hospital. When the police arrived, not the<br />

guards, but fifteen of the workers were<br />

arrested.<br />

Eventually, the workers were released, but we<br />

would like to hear from Primark: does this<br />

mean now all is fine in this factory?<br />

Are workers fully paid and have dismissed<br />

workers been compensated?


primark<br />

“Firstly, the factory was closed for ten water festival<br />

holidays in April. Then it closed for nine days for<br />

inspections of the factory. Then after that, I was<br />

dismissed on 14 May 2020. ... Normally my salary was<br />

250,000 MMK [189 USD] per month as an average<br />

including overtime. Management claimed the layoffs<br />

were legal and in accordance with the standard<br />

procedure, but to me it was not in accordance with the<br />

law, so it must be the company's home-made<br />

standards. ... The workers had to sign under pressure.<br />

And they also didn’t give us the payslips. We had to<br />

sign on those slips that included the way they<br />

calculated the compensations.”<br />

Worker in Myanmar in a factory producing<br />

for Primark and Zara


primark<br />

“Since this is the <strong>COVID</strong> time, the prices of every<br />

good has increased, so it’s really hard for us to<br />

survive.<br />

I received 240,000 MMK before <strong>COVID</strong>. But since<br />

the <strong>COVID</strong>-<strong>19</strong> started stepping into the country,<br />

I’ve got only a slightly more than 100,000 [76 USD]<br />

... I have pawned my wife's earrings. If the<br />

situation is getting worse, I will take them back<br />

and sell them to get more money than the amount<br />

of the pawning.”<br />

Worker in Myanmar in a factory producing<br />

for Primark and Zara


Kalpona Akter - President of the Bangladesh<br />

Garment and Industrial Workers Federation


nike<br />

Workers tell us that they were underpaid and even fired without<br />

legally-mandated compensation at factories supplying for Nike.<br />

We support their struggle and ask Nike: You paid for orders, but<br />

what about ensuring your workers get what they are owed?


nike - pt victory ching luh<br />

The Victory Ching Luh factory in Indonesia started laying off workers<br />

when the first effects of the pandemic were being felt.<br />

The first time, around 500 trainee workers had to go. Then, in the next<br />

wave of lay-offs, almost 5,000 workers were dismissed. The unions<br />

represented in the factory were not consulted. Union representatives<br />

say the lay-offs were caused by Nike cutting down on orders.


nike - pt victory ching luh<br />

The livelihood of the 17,000 remaining workers was not secured by<br />

the dismissal of their colleagues. Union representatives report to<br />

have unsuccessfully opposed cuts on workdays and wages since<br />

July. The factory threatens that if the wage cuts are not accepted by<br />

the unions, thousands of more workers will be laid off.


nike - pt victory ching luh<br />

union leaders say:<br />

"We asked that management<br />

cut hours and overtime<br />

instead but they said the<br />

lay-offs were unavoidable."<br />

Mr Suwandi Hekkindo, head of<br />

GSBI labour union<br />

"The factories are using<br />

<strong>COVID</strong>-<strong>19</strong> as an excuse<br />

to fire workers and<br />

move somewhere<br />

cheaper.”<br />

Mr Ramidi, General<br />

Sceretary of SPN labour<br />

union<br />

“The off-days are not what workers want, but that’s the<br />

company’s decision. So [money lost from] salary cuts<br />

due to the off-days should be given back to workers.”<br />

Emelia Yanti Siahaan, Secretary-General of GSBI


nike - pt victory ching luh<br />

jemirah, operator and union<br />

leader at victory ching luh<br />

"Before the pandemic,<br />

everything was normal. Wage<br />

and overtime were paid fully. But<br />

then, management started to say<br />

that orders decreased, there’s no<br />

income. We didn’t believe it, so<br />

we ask the management to [give<br />

us] proof, to show evidence."<br />

"The management didn’t consult with us about the dismissal, they<br />

just gathered all the unions and told us that they have to reduce<br />

workers. … In June, the management told us that, in order to avoid<br />

further dismissal, the management will reduce the workdays for<br />

three months and will apply no work no pay..."


nike - pt victory ching luh<br />

“Nike, we, with our hands, make your shoes. We make it<br />

as you requested. We made you gain profits. Huge<br />

profits. Why are you silent when your supplier cuts our<br />

wage? You must take responsibility. In pandemic<br />

situation, you are the first that should pay more<br />

attention to us. You should be responsible with your<br />

suppliers’ conduct. Workers are assets. What is the use<br />

of the materials if no one shape them to something?<br />

What are the machines if there is no one to operate<br />

them?”<br />

Jemirah, operator and union leader at<br />

Victory Ching Luh


nike - pt victory ching luh<br />

“Don’t put the burden of<br />

<strong>COVID</strong>-<strong>19</strong>’s impact solely on<br />

the shoulders of workers.”<br />

via The Jakarta Post<br />

Emelia Yanti Siahaan,<br />

Secretary-general of union GSBI


nike - violet apparel<br />

Violet Apparel, supplier of Nike, Matalan, C&A and Carters, announced<br />

to workers on 30 June that it would close permanently the next day<br />

because of lack of orders. Over one thousand workers, including<br />

pregnant women, were dismissed and the factory owners have refused<br />

to pay severance to the workers as required by Cambodian law, leaving<br />

the workers penniless in the midst of a pandemic.<br />

In the two months before<br />

the factory closed, the<br />

factory had already<br />

suspended workers due to<br />

lack of work, paying them<br />

only 30 USD<br />

a month. Hundreds of<br />

workers protested after<br />

the announcement.


nike - violet apparel<br />

“We hope we will get justice<br />

and want the factory to<br />

respect the law and provide<br />

workers with what they are<br />

due.”<br />

Via Phnom Penh Post<br />

Ong Chanthoeun,<br />

a worker at Violet Apparel


nike - violet apparel<br />

Workers confirm the factory was producing for Nike and did so<br />

regularly, even if Nike denies the sourcing relationship. The factory’s<br />

parent company is a recognised Nike supplier and workers have<br />

provided evidence of subcontracting activity at their factory.


nike - violet apparel<br />

Cambodia Confederation of Unions president Rong Chhun was<br />

arrested after he led Violet workers to protest in front of the<br />

Ministry of Labour and sent a petition to the prime minister.<br />

The workers have not been paid advance notice pay.


UN(DER)PAID IN THE<br />

PANDEMIC REPORT<br />

The Un(der)paid in the pandemic report calculated the lost<br />

wages of roughly 13 million workers across seven countries.<br />

The wage gap, although based on only rough estimates,<br />

indicates the amount of funding that is needed to make<br />

garment workers wages whole.<br />

The calculations of workers’ wages are based on the minimum<br />

monthly wage for the garment sector in each country surveyed.<br />

Importantly however, many workers earn, on average, more<br />

than their country’s minimum wage when including regular<br />

overtime hours, bonuses, and other allowances.


WAGE GAP - BANGLADESH<br />

258 facilities<br />

107 facilities<br />

wage gap<br />

march-may:<br />

501<br />

million USD<br />

These are estimates as<br />

explained in the Un(der)paid<br />

in the pandemic report by CCC


CAMBODIA - WAGE GAP<br />

32 facilities<br />

22 facilities<br />

12 facilities<br />

wage gap<br />

march-may:<br />

123.59<br />

million USD<br />

These are estimates as<br />

explained in the Un(der)paid<br />

in the pandemic report by CCC


WAGE GAP - INDIA<br />

220 facilities<br />

145 facilities<br />

7 facilities<br />

wage gap<br />

march-may:<br />

259.72<br />

million USD<br />

These are estimates as<br />

explained in the Un(der)paid<br />

in the pandemic report by CCC


WAGE GAP - INDONESIA<br />

78 facilities<br />

38 facilities<br />

wage gap<br />

march-may:<br />

405.32<br />

million USD<br />

These are estimates as<br />

explained in the Un(der)paid<br />

in the pandemic report by CCC


WAGE GAP - MYANMAR<br />

48 facilities<br />

12 facilities<br />

wage gap<br />

march-may:<br />

64.26<br />

million USD<br />

These are estimates as<br />

explained in the Un(der)paid<br />

in the pandemic report by CCC


PAKISTAN - WAGE GAP<br />

32 facilities<br />

23 facilities<br />

6 facilities<br />

wage gap<br />

march-may:<br />

320.88<br />

million USD<br />

These are estimates as<br />

explained in the Un(der)paid<br />

in the pandemic report by CCC


WAGE GAP - SRI LANKA<br />

20 facilities<br />

10 facilities<br />

6 facilities<br />

wage gap<br />

march-may:<br />

24.05<br />

million USD<br />

These are estimates as<br />

explained in the Un(der)paid<br />

in the pandemic report by CCC


Jobless in Bangladesh<br />

Former garment worker Taniya has to sell tea and<br />

cigars on street to survive after losing her job<br />

during the Covid-<strong>19</strong> crisis.<br />

Shutterstock/Sk Hasan Ali


the national struggle in cambodia<br />

Workers, their unions, and labour<br />

activists in Cambodia decided<br />

that they will not accept the wage<br />

gap left behind by the pandemic.<br />

During the lockdown, factories<br />

were legally required to pay only<br />

40% of workers’ wages, while the<br />

government promised to add<br />

another 20%, leaving workers<br />

with only 60% of their wages,<br />

and often less because<br />

government payments did not<br />

come through.<br />

In June the government announced that also bi-annual seniority<br />

indemnity payments would be postponed by a year, while many<br />

workers, after months of partial wages, were counting on this money.


national struggle in cambodia<br />

Cambodian unions and labour rights groups have calculated that<br />

workers are owed 76 USD per month for the period of reduced wages.<br />

They are calling upon brands sourcing from Cambodia, as well as the<br />

government, to ensure that: workers receive their due bonuses with no<br />

delay, the wage gap is covered, and all laid-off workers are paid full<br />

severance.<br />

International solidarity<br />

for their campaign to<br />

hold brands responsible<br />

for the livelihood of<br />

workers in their supply<br />

chain is very much<br />

needed.<br />

Their campaign for higher wages had led to a meagre monthly 2 USD<br />

increase on the current wage of <strong>19</strong>0 USD.


national struggle in cambodia<br />

H&M, Primark and Nike all source from factories in Cambodia<br />

33 factories<br />

22 factories<br />

12 factories<br />

Cambodian minimum wage 2020: <strong>19</strong>0 USD per month


covid-<strong>19</strong>'s effects strike<br />

everywhere<br />

Brands and retailers’ responses to the pandemic has affected workers<br />

around the world: in the supply chains of H&M, Primark, and Nike<br />

across Asia, but just as much in other supply chains and on other<br />

continents, such as Africa, Europe, and the Americas.<br />

morocco<br />

In Morocco, in the supply chain of Inditex – owner of Zara,<br />

Bershka, Stradivarius, Pull & Bear – workers were receiving<br />

wages with delay for several months and were beginning to<br />

endure other violations of their rights when they stopped<br />

receiving any wages at all and their factory closed entirely.<br />

The group of workers from the Société Le Grand Maghreb<br />

Industrie factory were left without a job or due compensation<br />

overnight.


covid-<strong>19</strong> strikes everywhere<br />

romania<br />

In Romania, many workers<br />

employed at the Tanex factory,<br />

which supplies a number of major<br />

international brands, received only<br />

half their wages for March and<br />

April [165USD], although they<br />

worked full time for the Tanex<br />

factory. The one woman who dared<br />

to speak out publicly about this<br />

injustice, Angelica, was harassed<br />

and fired.<br />

As a result of organizing by the workers, engagement with the<br />

brands, and ultimately the brands’ pressure on Tanex management,<br />

most of the workers have now received their back pay. Angelica<br />

and three other workers who left the factory continue to fight for<br />

the money they are owed by factory management.


covid-<strong>19</strong> strikes everywhere<br />

Aida, 20 years old, worked for a<br />

factory that produces clothing<br />

for The Children's Place. Her<br />

wages had been cut from 26 USD<br />

to 10 USD a month since March.<br />

She said her employers had told<br />

workers the company might go<br />

bankrupt because of the volume<br />

of lost orders after The Children's<br />

Place cancelled orders.<br />

ethiopia<br />

“I am afraid I am going to lose my job because of the crisis and get<br />

expelled from my house when I can’t afford to pay my rent. ... The<br />

days I skip meals has become more frequent … I used to eat<br />

vegetables but now I usually consume only cornflour meals.”<br />

Image: Garment workers in Ethiopia before the pandemic. Shutterstock/Pinar Alver


covid-<strong>19</strong> strikes everywhere<br />

ethiopia<br />

Tamru, 22 years old, who works<br />

at the same The Children's Place<br />

supplier used to make 27 USD a<br />

month, working nine hours a day,<br />

six days a week. Since orders<br />

were cut, the company stopped<br />

supplying buses to transport<br />

workers to the factories, and his<br />

wages have been cut in half.<br />

Via The Guardian<br />

“I can’t eat whenever I<br />

want to eat,” he said. “I<br />

sometimes skip dinner. I<br />

walk from home to work<br />

every day because the<br />

factory has stopped<br />

providing transport<br />

service and I can’t afford<br />

to pay for a bus. My work<br />

is so exhausting, I never<br />

sit, and the pay is very<br />

small to cover my<br />

expenses.”


covid-<strong>19</strong> strikes everywhere<br />

A factory in Yangon, Myanmar<br />

where 439 women and 61 men<br />

made jackets and trousers for<br />

Mango, Zara, Kiabi, New Locker<br />

and Bestseller suddenly closed in<br />

March, after the owner had fled<br />

the country. It was on monthly<br />

pay day, so the entire workforce<br />

was left without their wages or<br />

compensation for the loss of<br />

their jobs. The owner blamed the<br />

bankruptcy on the the<br />

repercussions of the <strong>COVID</strong>-<strong>19</strong><br />

outbreak, which made it<br />

impossible to obtain raw<br />

materials from China.<br />

myanmar<br />

The workers are entitled to<br />

300 million Kyat (almost<br />

200.000 EUR) and organised<br />

a protest at the Yangon<br />

District Office to demand the<br />

auction of assets and<br />

payment of their due wages,<br />

severance, and social<br />

security payments. The<br />

brands must ensure that the<br />

workers receive their legally<br />

due wages and benefits<br />

(incl. February wages,<br />

severance and notice pay).


thank you for reading<br />

Ask brands around the world and especially H&M,<br />

Nike, and Primark: Do you #PayYourWorkers?<br />

Visit our <strong>COVID</strong>-<strong>19</strong> live blog for all the latest news<br />

If you would like to take action or donate to the<br />

emergency fund, visit our <strong>COVID</strong>-<strong>19</strong> campaign page<br />

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