Travel Love Poland Magazine – March 2021
Dear Readers, And so the spring has come again. Disliked by some as in Poland it tends to be often cool till May while adored by the others. However, before we move on to more spring topics, we invite you to read the conversation with probably the most famous Slav and Slavic warrior in Poland, i.e. with Igor Górewicz. It is a fascinating journey into the past, and since Igor's knowledge is immense, his stories will be extremely interesting, not only for history lovers. As usual, the whole is illustrated by already well-known Marek Kalisiński. From more spring themes, this time we recommend trips to Roztocze and cycling adventures in southern Poland. We especially want to draw your attention to the photographs by Marcin Gądek in the article "Churches from heaven". As Marcin is also a priest, his stories and photographs have an additional, slightly deeper dimension. Also, get to know the city that we haven't presented yet – that is Opole. Perhaps slightly off the beaten track of the most frequent hikes, it will be an interesting proposition for music lovers. Opole is called the capital of Polish song. There will be, as usual at this time of the year, Easter accents, both culinary (with a recipe for Sękacz) and visual – we are presenting once again the photographs by Kamila Rosińska - as well as her two new stories for children.
Dear Readers,
And so the spring has come again. Disliked by some as in Poland it tends to be often cool till May while adored by the others. However, before we move on to more spring topics, we invite you to read the conversation with probably the most famous Slav and Slavic warrior in Poland, i.e. with Igor Górewicz. It is a fascinating journey into the past, and since Igor's knowledge is immense, his stories will be extremely interesting, not only for history lovers. As usual, the whole is illustrated by already well-known Marek Kalisiński.
From more spring themes, this time we recommend trips to Roztocze and cycling adventures in southern Poland. We especially want to draw your attention to the photographs by Marcin Gądek in the article "Churches from heaven". As Marcin is also a priest, his stories and photographs have an additional, slightly deeper dimension.
Also, get to know the city that we haven't presented yet – that is Opole. Perhaps slightly off the beaten track of the most frequent hikes, it will be an interesting proposition for music lovers. Opole is called the capital of Polish song.
There will be, as usual at this time of the year, Easter accents, both culinary (with a recipe for Sękacz) and visual – we are presenting once again the photographs by Kamila Rosińska - as well as her two new stories for children.
Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
M A R C H - J U N E 2 0 2 1 | V O L 1 | I S S U E 1 5
I S S N 2 5 1 5 - 8 5 0 3
travel.lovePoland
through the lens
Slavs
Slavic culture used to come back and go away again from the
field of interest of a wider audience. The greatest creators of
Polish culture referred to it, sometimes in regards to aesthetics,
sometimes in regards to customs, and sometimes directly in
text: Igor Górewicz
photos: Marek Kalisiński
regards to the spiritual values derived from it.
M E D I A P A R T N E R
LOVEPOLAND.ORG
media partner
w i t k a c y t h e a t r e i n Z a k o p a n e
w w w . w i t k a c y . p l
"Life makes most sense at the height of nonsense"
Witkacy theatre is one of the most cherished theatres in Poland.
It was founded in 1984 in tribute to a Zakopane legend,
Stanislaw Ignacy Witkiewicz.
in Poland: rebirth of nature and brighter days
Spring
time to say goodbye to winter. Goodbye, short days and long nights! Goodbye, mostly grey weather! A long-awaited spring welcomes us with the green color and brighter days.
It’s
M A R C H A N D S P R I N G
I N P O L A N D
photo: Kamchatka, Getty
text by Magdalena Piasecka
www.kidsinthecity.pl
Weather in Poland in March
Spring Weather in Poland
The astronomical first day of spring falls on March 20 – the vernal
equinox (the length of day and night is nearly equal in all parts of the
world). Meteorologically speaking, spring in Poland begins on March 21
and lasts until June 21, with summer starting on June 22.
The old Polish folk tradition of the first day of spring is to drown
Marzanna (a straw figure of a woman symbolizing winter) in the
nearest river (nowadays mostly in rural areas and by children at
schools). For children, the first day of spring is a Truant’s Day / Skip Day
(Dzień Wagarowicza). Some students skip classes but usually, it’s just a
special fun day at school – students dress up in a funny way, schools
organize competitions and games, there are no tests on this day.
Although March is technically the beginning of spring, it’s usually still
cold in Poland and the weather changes often – one week you feel as if
spring is just around the corner, and next week there is snow and frost.
An average monthly temperature in March in Poland is 3,2°C / 37.8°F,
average monthly rainfall level is 37,5 mm (the third lowest after
February and April). You can have all kinds of weather in March in
Poland. There is an old Polish proverb that says ‘W marcu jak w garncu‘,
meaning ‘March is like a pot’ (we can have anything).
What’s new in nature in March in Poland
Nature starts slowly to come back to life. You may notice first flowers
blooming: white snowdrops (przebiśnieg) and yellow, white or purple
crocuses (krokus). Another symbol of early spring in Poland – willow
twigs with buds (bazie). You may notice them in almost every park in
Poland or buy a willow twigs bunch at any florist or shopping market.
06 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
March/April
March 8th
Woman's Day (Dzień Kobiet)
International Women’s Day in Poland is
a day of gift-giving and a day for
promoting greater respect for women
in general. When women meet men on
this day, regardless of whether it is
their boss, colleague, friend, or father,
they can usually count on receiving a
flower.
March 20th
Spring
(drowning of the “Winter Witch”
called Marzanna. )
The first day of spring in Poland is
actually another occasion popular
among children. It is celebrated on
March 20th and it is a day when
children traditionally play truant. In
Poland it is sometimes called a day of
being truant. If it is a school day (not
this year) Children don’t have lessons
but games and competitions.
April 1st
Prima Aprils (Fulls Day)
In Poland, prima aprilis ("1 April" in
Latin) as a day of pranks is a
centuries-long tradition. It is a day
when many pranks are played: hoaxes
– sometimes very sophisticated – are
prepared by people, media (which
often cooperate to make the
"information" more credible) and
even public institutions. Serious
activities are usually avoided, and
generally every word said on April 1
can be untrue..
April 2nd
Good Friday (Wielki Piatek)
In churches a reconstructed tomb
is placed in a special place with
the faithful praying constantly
and keeping watch. People visit
those tombs and pray.
Many Poles will fast, consuming
neither food nor beverages. It is
not an official public holiday in
Poland, but some shops may have
shorter opening hours. Some
museums, theaters and tourist
attractions may also be closed.
April 4th
Easter Sunday (Wielkanoc)
Holy Week lasts from Palm
Sunday to Easter Sunday. Palm
Sunday, the week before Easter
Sunday, is marked by church
attendance with palm-leaf
substitutes in the form of willow
branches or handmade bouquets
of dried flowers. On Easter
Saturday, baskets of Easter food
are taken to a church to be
blessed; the food that is blessed
is eaten as a part of the Easter
Sunday meal.
April / May
April 5th
May 2nd
May 3rd
May 23rd
May 26th
Easter Monday (Lany
Poniedziełek)
Easter Monday is a family holiday
in Poland and is called Smigus
Dyngus, or Wet Monday, after the
practice of men and boys pouring
water on women and girls. his is
accompanied by a number of
other rituals, such as making
verse declarations and holding
door-to-door processions, in
some regions involving boys
dressed as bears or other
creatures.
Flag Day
Polish National Flag Day is a
national holiday in Poland
introduced by an act issued on 20
February 2004.
Various types of patriotic actions
and demonstrations are organized
on this day.
In recent years, it has become
common to wear a national
cockade on that day.
Constitution Day
It is a Polish national and public
holiday that takes place on 3 May.
The holiday celebrates the
declaration of the Constitution of 3
May 1791. Festivities date back to the
Duchy of Warsaw early in the 19th
century, but it became an official
holiday only in 1919 in the Second
Polish Republic. Delisted during the
times of the Polish People's Republic,
it was reestablished after the fall of
communism in modern Poland.
Zesłanie Ducha Świętego
(Zielone Świątki)
Pentecost is a Christian festival that
celebrates the gift of the Holy Spirit.
Also called Green Week (Zielone
Świątki). By some it is connected to
Slavic rituals celebrating the full
spring. Birch-tree is particularly
important in these celebrations.
Houses, pathways and shrines with
green branches, herbs and flowers.
The Pentecost or Green Week is a
Church holiday, public holiday.
All shops are closed.
Mother's Day
Mother’s Day is celebrated on the
26th of May and it begun in 1923 in
Kraków.
Often children bring their mothers
flowers and special handmade cards,
called “laurki”(singuar: laurka). They
are decorated with drawings and
pictures.
Mother’s Day isn’t a national public
holiday, but children honor their
mothers on this day countrywide.
May/ June
June 1st
June 3rd
June 21st
June 23rd
spring
time
Children's Day
The International Children's Day was
introduced in Poland in 1952.
Schools usually organize special
activities for the pupils to celebrate
the day, and during the first week of
June, is a time of festivities
organized in parks and entertainment
centers for children.
Corpus Christi
(Boże Ciało)
This feast is celebrated in honour of
the Holy Eucharist or Blessed
Sacrament, the Body and Blood of
Christ. The Sunday after Pentecost is
Trinity Sunday, and Boże Ciało is
observed on the following Thursday.
It is a public holiday in Poland. Every
parish holds its own its
neighbourhood procession. Little girls
strewing the way the Blessed
Sacrament is due to pass with flower
petals. They are followed by altar
boys jangling bells and perfuming the
air with incense.
1st day od Summer / St
John’s Eve and Kupala
Night
The turn of 23-24 June, or St John’s
Eve, is the shortest night during the
year. To understand its special
position in our culture one needs to
go back to the custom of Kupala
Night, a Slavic holiday of Sun and
Moon which falls on 21 and 22 June,
and relates to the summer solstice. In
the tradition of Slavic peoples it was
a celebration of water, fire, love and
fertility.
Father's Day
Many Polish people celebrate and
honor their fathers or father figures
on Father’s Day. Many fathers receive
Happy Fathers’ Day comments like
“Wszystkiego najlepszego z okazji
dnia ojca”. Some fathers are given
cards and gifts. Mother’s Day, on May
26, is also an annual observance in
Poland.
Public Life
Father’s Day is not a national public
holiday in Poland.
07 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Weather in Poland in April
April in Poland has a similar saying as March (‘Kwiecień plecień, bo
przeplata – trochę zimy trochę lata‘ – April interweaves a little bit
of winter and a little bit of summer), however, with the climate
change, April in Poland is relatively warm and considered (along
with May) by many people as the most beautiful time of year in
Poland. An average monthly temperature in April in Poland is
8,5°C / 47.3°F and average monthly rainfall level is 37,3 mm (the
second lowest after February).
What’s new in nature in April in Poland
The stork next to the eagle is the second symbol of Poland. It’s
April when over 40,000 white storks (bocian) arrive from Africa
to Poland (20% of their world population).
Shortly after arrival they are improving their old nests or are
starting to build new ones. The stork inhabits basically all of
Poland, except for the mountain ranges. The northeastern part of
the country is populated very densely. Storks spend around 5
months in Poland after which – about mid-August – they fly away
to wintering grounds in Africa.
The Polish name for April – kwiecień – leaves no doubt, and the
explanation of its origin is very simple – it comes from the
flowers that are blooming in Poland in April (kwiat means flower
in Polish).
Daffodils (żonkil) are the flowers that are associated in Poland
with the arrival of spring and Easter. Forsythia (forsycja) is
another flowering plant in Poland in April (it is frost-resistant),
very popular in Polish gardens and parks.
Other April flowers include crocuses, primroses, hyacinths, violets,
daisies, pansies, tulips. The queen of April flowers in Poland is
sweet violet (fiołek). In the second half of April, the first fruit
trees begin to bloom.
Weather in Poland in May
May in Poland is usually warm and reasonably dry. Sunny weather
can event turn hot. The Tatry mountains are the only place in
Poland you can still have snow at the beginning of May (in the
higher parts of the mountains). An average monthly temperature
in May in Poland is 13,7°C / 56,7°F, and average monthly rainfall
level is 62,1 mm. The name of the month (maj) comes from the
Latin name Maius. May and March are the only months whose
Polish names derive from Latin. Polish names of the remaining
months have Slavic roots.
What’s new in nature in May in Poland
Lilac (bez) is a queen among spring flowers that bloom in May in
Poland. In Poland, the most common are purple and white lilacs. It
smells awesome but unfortunately, it is very fragile and withers
quickly in the home vase. Lilac came to Poland from Turkey
through the Balkan Peninsula. For years, an essential part of
Polish rural gardens. Blooming usually lasts only up to two weeks
so hurry to admire lilac! Poland in May turns into an orchard full
of blooming fruit trees. It’s the time when fruit trees are in fool
bloom. Wonderful sakura cherries receive special admiration in
Japan, they are the symbol of Japan. In Poland, in the spring,
pear, apple, cherry, plum trees bloom. Apple trees, however,
dominate in Poland, with their white, slightly pinkish flowers. May
also means the start of a busy season for bees!
Weather in Poland in June
Technically, the spring season lasts until June 21 but June in
Poland is considered as a summer month. After all, it’s the time
when school summer break starts. An average monthly
temperature in June in Poland is 16,7°C / 62°F, and average
monthly rainfall level is 69,2 mm (the second highest after July).
June in Poland is a strawberry season! Gardens are in full bloom
with countless spring flowers.
08 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Recommended Book: "The Polish Table"
"The Polish Table" has two nominations in Gourmand World Cookbook Awards
( in categories: EMBASSIES (culinary diplomacy) and FOOD TOURISM BOOKS).
The Gourmand World Cookbook Awards were founded in year 1995. Every year, they honour the best food and wine books and are
often compared by journalists to the "Oscars".The book is co-financed by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Poland in
the competition ‘Public Diplomacy 2020 – A New Dimension’ and the partners of the publication are the Polish Vodka Association, the
Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Toruń Gingerbread, branch of the District Museum in Toruń and Hanami.
Link: www.bunkatura.pl/the-polish-table
photo: fotolupa
Get your free e-book:
Free, beautiful and tasty download:
The Polish Table
by Magdalena Tomaszewska-Bolałek
The Polish Table - www.bunkatura.pl/the-polish-table
Mesa Polaca - www.bunkatura.pl/mesa-polaca
photo: emicristea
photo: martin-dm
09 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
photo: The last of a series of photos showing the fictional hero Niemir, whose fate was
based on the scenario of an archaeological exhibition on military affairs at the beginning
of the Polish State entitled "Piast Total War" at the Museum of the Origins of the Polish
State in Gniezno. His sons played the role of young Niemir. Igor was also one of the
exhibition curators.
Slaves, Triglav Strongold Warband
IGOR GÓREWICZ
all photos: Marek Kalisiński
translation: Libres, consultation Amber Acosta
Triglav Publishing House
www.triglav.com.pl
Personal website
www.igorgorewicz.pl
Youtube: triglav2002
photo: Kasia and Igor at the set of the music video "Zoriuszka"
of the Sound of Triglav project.
I heard about Igor for the first time while working with Marek Kalisiński on an
article about Wolin. It was then that Marek told me about Igor's squad. Later, we
showed the latest book by Igor: About the Slavonic Arms: In War and in Culture.
Just like that, the idea for a broader presentation of what Igor does on a daily
basis was born, as it is a fascinating and still little known topic. We are going to
talk about the Slavs (or actually about the beginnings of Poland), but also about
the way Slavonic roots still shape Polish consciousness.
I admit that although I try to get to know the cultural and spiritual heritage of
Poland, in my interests I focused more on old sagas or folk traditions and I paid
less attention to prehistoric roots (although these topics are probably intertwined
and permeated). For this reason, I invite you to an interview with Igor D. Górewicz,
during which I will try to open up my mind for a completely new field. I hope it will
be interesting for you as well. Maybe you will even visit some of the places
mentioned during your stay in Poland.
LP: Igor, while preparing for this conversation, I concluded
that both the main subject and your person are an extremely
extensive topic. You work in so many areas that I could hardly
find a "starting point". However, what is common to most, if
not all, of your activities are Slavs- their history, culture, and
traditions. So, I decided that it would be a good common
thread for further conversation.
Igor Górewicz: Well, I think I should thank you as I take it as a
compliment. The fact is, I often get itchy feet and I cannot
stand idleness. Ideas are swarming and you have to write
something, record something, and organise something. I dealt
with the Polish Army in the East in 1945 and the Germanic
peoples in the 1st-2nd centuries AD and I also love the
archaic and classical period of ancient Greek culture. The
beauty of melee weapons as such moves me greatly, and I
especially love the sword, its forms and ideas. But, indeed,
what defines me the most strongly in the sphere of culture,
both for me and in the space of social activity, is the
traditional culture of the Slavs and I am most widely
associated with it.
LP: Before we get to the main thread, I would like to start
with a short story about you. Your fascination with the
culture of the Slavs began during your studies, and now your
entire life is devoted to this subject. In fact, not only yours,
but also your family's. Do you remember what influenced your
choice of the way of life and the fact you decided to stick to
it?
Igor: The very same question allows me to tell a story
because it has been a long process. My activity in the field of
Slavic culture started during my studies, but the beginnings
of the fascination itself lie somewhere deep in my childhood,
although I have never managed to track down and indicate a
single moment or an event that particularly sparked this
interest. It has been rather a multi-threaded influence and
development. The fact that there are fascinating things
hidden in history was revealed to me by my father and
grandfather, reading about the kings of Poland or the myths
from Mythology by Parandowski. Perhaps surprisingly, from a
chronological perspective, the ancient Greeks knocked on the
door of my imagination before the Slavs did. On the other
hand, however, I grew up in the Polish People's Republic, in
which Slavonic threads (no matter how simplified or used)
were present, especially in the iconosphere, perhaps even
more than in a conscious way. However, I remember that my
father brought a figurine of a Slavic warrior from a business
trip, with an almond-shaped kite-shield, an axe, and a
characteristic shoulder-length haircut and bangs (laughing).
Although he was mine, it used to stand in the parents' room,
on the shelf above the radio playing the third programme of
Polish Radio, as the figurine was made of plaster and was not
suitable for playing with.
He just used to stand and look at me and I used to stare at
him. And so we looked at each other until this image left his
imprint on me. On top of that, there were talks with
drawings by Szymon Kobyliński about the armament and the
traditions of the Polish army. That was brilliant and so
appealing that I felt that all of this was, on the one hand,
magnificent, while on the other very "homey" and "ours".
Not only the Slavs, but mainly them, as my imagination was
also occupied by the vision of the battle of Grunwald (also
known as the First Battle of Tannenberg) and Winged
Hussars. All of this, of course, in a childish, teenage form. It
was not without significance that I listened to heavy metal
since I was a child, and then in the 1980s, warriors, combat,
swords, and axes were some of the most common themes of
lyrics and covers. And above all, Conan!! In this role, Arni, the
one and only, and Howard's books. We didn't have Conan's
comic books back then. These elements of popular culture,
on the other hand, shaped the image of a warrior and it
would not be possible without a temporary fascination with
the icon of pop culture, for example, Vikings.
Exactly on my 18th birthday, I started collecting replicas of
swords. Soon, one by one, they hit my wall. When I was at
the very beginning of my studies, the Viking Festival in Wolin
began being organized and I used to attend. I was fascinated
by melee weapons, Vikings, and Slavs. The participants of
the festivals were only foreign Vikings, mainly from England
and Denmark as it must be explained that at that time in
Poland we had no re-enactment groups of that era. One
year, some guys in Slav costumes also appeared as guests,
and when I looked at them and compared them with foreign
reenactors, I thought that it could not be like that- that we
need to recreate "ours", but at a level presented by our
foreign colleagues. So in 1998, I started working on the
design of a Slavic costume and I directed my first steps to
the library of the National Museum in Szczecin. Then
everything went rather quickly. The squad was formed, then
participation in the festival in Wolin (which soon changed its
name to the "Festival of Slavs and Vikings"), and later the
trips to events in Torgelow in Germany, Moesgaard, and
other places in Denmark and Fotevikien in Sweden.
In 2000, I graduated and was about to start a normal
professional career, but it turned out that the team was
growing and there was so much demand for shows,
presentations, and other forms of popularising the history
that I had to choose- either DGT becomes a small group and
sometimes we do something together or I develop it and try
to be a pro. It was a breakneck idea- but the world belongs
to the brave and young! Everyone tapped their foreheadshow
come? You have to earn your living! Get a normal job!
However, these voices died quickly when it turned out that I
got more work than I can do.
12 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
lovePoland: Igor, you actively organise and participate in
historical re-enactments, write books, and you are involved
in films. You also starred in An Ancient Tale directed by
Jerzy Hoffman, took part in Hollywood films, and History
Channel productions. You were the co-producer of the movie
Viking Riders: The Raven and the Cross, filmed in Szczecin.
You are also the originator, founder and voivode of Drużyna
Grodu Trzygłowa (Triglav Strongold Warband). What do all
these activities have in common?
Could you tell us about the activities of the Warband? Why
was it created and what is its purpose? What do you really
do? It is probably not just a 'big boys' game, is it?
Igor: Well, certainly not, as it is suitable for adult girls and
our children as well! But seriously, I could not give it up after
we organized, conducted or participated in about a thousand
shows, festivals, history lessons, and all other forms for the
audience. We were watched by several million live viewers.
Besides, there is a relatively large presence in traditional
media, newspapers, folders, guides, TV programs, and
interviews about us or history. All this meant that we
contributed a lot to the promotion of Slavic culture, military
history and history as such.
Today, the Warband has been operating for 23 years. After
the first ten years of activity, we started to meet young
people attending our shows who told us about others who
got interested in history after one of our previous shows at
their school or in the castle and decided to take up historical
or archaeological university studies. Sometimes they talked
about the fact that thanks to our shows and stories, they
noticed the beauty of our culture and felt proud to be a Slav.
This was a big change, since Slavic culture was considered
unattractive and passé.
Besides, the Warband is primarily a group of people
celebrating a common passion, costumes, training, and
craftsmanship. For men, warrior training is an obvious form
of self-realization, although for many of us its role
decreases with age. We are also aware that the weapons,
replicas of which we use, carry a very deep symbolic content.
This is what three of my books talk about: Swords of Europe,
On warriors of the Slavs: Squads and Battles on Land and
Sea, and On Weapons of Slavs: In War and in Culture. Those
who do not fight and our ladies deal with various aspects of
"civil" culture, such as crafts, singing, customs, herbalism,
and cuisine. In fact, there is something interesting for
everyone.
As a team, of course, in various numbers, we go to festivals
and shows all over Poland and many different countries,
visiting places related to history. We spend time together at
festivals, kids run and grow up. Just life, but colourful and
full of meaning.
lovePoland: Let's move on to the main topic, Slavs, especially
in Polish lands. Until recently, writing about the oldest Polish
traditions was not common. It was probably only in the last
two decades that books, organisations, and associations
regarding this subject began to appear.
Igor: Slavic culture used to come back and go away again
from the field of interest of a wider audience. Of course,
Romanticism brought an interest in this culture. The greatest
creators of Polish culture referred to it, sometimes in
regards to aesthetics, sometimes in regards to customs, and
sometimes directly in regards to the spiritual values derived
from it.
In the Polish People's Republic, the subject of the Slavic
culture was highly appreciated. This was for several reasons.
Partly, it was a reaction to German racist ideas before and
during World War II, and partly because of a sincere interest
in the past and a search for roots. In part, for ideological
reasons, as the Slavic thread could counterbalance
Christianity, which, as we know, used to be programmatically
rejected. Also, in connection with the Piast idea, it was
supposed to strengthen the so-called "historical right" to the
lands in the west and north, included into the territory of
Poland in 1945. This purpose was realised through so-called
"Millennium Research" or a long-term program of
archaeological and historical research on the origins of the
Polish State, preceding the celebration of the 1000th
anniversary. After 1989, the pendulum rebounded and
Slavicism was perceived as unleavened, primitive,
uninteresting, or even dangerous. It was then that the
Vikings came back in good graces and they were seen
everywhere in the early medieval scene, every sword, axe, or
an unusual grave meant a Viking. It reminds me of the
sentence uttered by one of the dwarf-prisoners in the movie
Kingsajz: “If you wear glasses, it means you’re a professor”.
Unfortunately, some people are still convinced about that.
But, at the end of the '90s, in the popular layer of the
culture, an interest in the subject among young people began
to rise: historical re-enactments, folk music inspired by Slavic
folklore. Initially, these were small groups, but the niche
swelled and expanded, and Slavic themes appeared in mass
culture, music, games, and recently also in the film.
lovePoland: Do we know much about the culture of the Slavs,
their beliefs, and finally their wider influence on the shaping
of contemporary Poland and Europe?
Igor: We know a lot about their culture and beliefs, but of
course it is never enough. It is a myth, however, that there is
nothing left and nothing can be said about it. I was precisely
motivated by such a sentence, which I have heard many
times, so I started publishing and writing, bringing the
findings of researchers closer to a wider circle of readers.
14 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Let us take, for example, the matter of mythology or more
broadly, beliefs. We know quite a lot about these elements in
the Greeks or Scandinavians, but mainly thanks to the fact
that they had their own mythographers. Greeks had their
Homer and Hesiod, not to mention several playwrights who
used mythological threads. In Scandinavia, the one who did a
great job was Snorre Sturluson, writing his Edda. Thus, the
mythographers preserved specific scenarios, stories, and
sequences of events involving gods and other beings.
With the Slavs, however, we do not have such scenarios,
although we can reconstruct the most important ones, such
as cosmogenesis, which is the myth about the beginning of
the world. We mainly have information about statues, names,
attributes, some pictures, like Veles on the golden throne. In
addition to historical and archaeological sources,
ethnographic ones like fairy tales or folk songs, are vital to
us as they may store extremely archaic content. All this,
however, makes it more difficult to present Slavic mythology
in an attractive form of stories, and the books
about it are full of scientific research, which makes them
less attractive in the eyes of some recipients.
For me, it is very interesting, it is often even a kind of an
investigation that must be carried out to understand an
element. Therefore, some time ago I concluded that while we
have "movies" of the Scandinavian or Greek mythologies,
there are only "photos" left in the case of Slavonic myths.
The role of a researcher or populariser, in this case I play
both roles, is to arrange these photos appropriately so that
they create an interesting, beautiful album showing a whole.
I wrote about it in my book for children, entitled Borek and
Slavonic Gods, where using a boy figure, I presented the
world of beliefs, gods, rituals and temples.
All of it was in accordance with the professional literature on
the subject. tried to create a similar canon of myths about
the beginnings of Poland in Borek and the Legendary
Beginnings of Poland.
photo: As a voivode from a series of photos for the "Piast Total War" exhibition.
16 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
The Italian author of historical books about the Slavic
region, Aldo Marturano, treats the subject of his interests in
a very appealing way. Let me quote the text from the back
cover of his book, which we published in Polish in 2011.
"Marturano sees something in Poland that tends to be
forgotten by many- a part of the Slavic region, while the
Slavic region he perceives as a very rich, extremely
important, though once forgotten and today undiscovered
part of the European heritage".
It is interesting because it is seen from the perspective of
an Italian, a man immersed in classical culture. Karol
Modzelewski in his book Barbarian Europe writes that
European culture was, of course, shaped by the heritage of
classical Greek and Roman, Christian, and also Hellenistic
culture, but also by the traditions of peoples who lived
outside Limes, known as the Barbarians. The Slavic peoples,
as well as the Germanic, Celtic, Finno-Ugric and other ones,
left their mark on what we call European culture. As he
wrote, "Europe also has extensive barbaric roots."
Now let me go back to this list of sinusoidal ebbs and flows
of interest in the Slavic culture among researchers. After a
period of choking with Vikings, which, as I said, has not been
over for everyone yet, a generation of middle-aged
researchers (let's say 40-year-olds well versed in European
archaeology) approached the subject of Slavic culture
without complexes. In place of the thesis and antithesis,
synthesis is slowly being forged, that is, a reasonable
representation of the role of the Slavs in the early Middle
Ages. Thanks to the development of field and office
research, only for a few years we have been able to, in
principle, unquestionably distinguish the completely Slavic
style of beautiful elite objects. These are the bearded axes,
beautifully decorated with copper alloys and silver, typical
of the north-western Slavs. These are also ceremonial spurs
or knife sheath fittings decorated with animal figurines,
carrying an extensive symbolic program, reflecting the
Slavic vision of the construction of the world and
eschatological elements. Researchers from different
countries are also delighted and surprised, as it is also a
great novelty for them- something completely different
from the artifacts found in Scandinavia or Western Europe.
lovePoland: Is being a Slav only a cultural and national
affiliation, or maybe something more?
Igor: The ethnonym of the Slavs itself explains what works
as a bonding agent here. It is language as the name of our
people, Slavs, comes from the word słowo (which means
word). So a Slav is someone who speaks using words,
someone who might be understood. This may be related to
the phenomenon of Slavic ethnogenesis, which is more
complicated than it seems at the first glance.
The Slavs took over a third of the territory of Europe very
quickly, and most probably they did it through their culture.
There was something attractive about this culture, which
made it acceptable by the peoples encountered to the
extent they took over Slavonic habits. This is how the Avars,
who had previously been an important military factor in the
region for a long time, cooperating or dominating the Slavs,
disappeared. Eventually they vanished. This was similar to
the Proto-Bulgarians, nomads, after whom only the name of
a south Slavic-language country remained. As for the
question about being a Slav, on the one hand, thinking in the
Slavic language is a necessary and sufficient condition, but
on the other hand, it is only a gate to the Slavic spiritual
world. This is probably a topic for a book as there is
something elusive about it, something difficult to define.
The entire perception of the world, man and culture results
from it. Our love of freedom, perhaps a bit of a specific
sensitivity. After listening to many songs of Slavonic
folklore, people are deeply moved because they touch
something vulnerable.
lovePoland: What influence did the Slavic tribes have on
what we define today as the nation, shaping the Polish
state? The question about the influence of the Slavs on
shaping Poland is somewhat surprising, because Poland in
the 10th century was a country created by the Slavs, of
course with the participation of ideas taken from the
outside. I must admit that I am also fascinated by your
private story- your family. You have a wife and three
children and they are all involved in the “Slavonic way of
life”, even the choice of their names does not seem
accidental, for example, Czcibor. How does such an offbeat
Slavonic family function? A family, based on "warrior
leadership", in times when male elements are slowly
disappearing and the so-called "life roles" become blurred.
Igor: Well, the oldest is Czcibor (Borek) and he is almost 16
years old, the youngest is Racibor (Racik) is he is almost 5
years old, and in the middle (here is a surprise) is Oskar and
he is almost 12 years old. We are such a typical-offbeat
family. We have a Slavonic statue in the garden where we go
on festive occasions, eating together and lighting a bonfire.
During a normal day, we probably function like many other
families- work, kindergarten, school, lunch, extracurricular
activities, visits to grandparents, and holidays. Our ordinary
morning was quite faithfully portrayed in the first pages of
the book Borek and the Legendary Beginnings of Poland.
The difference may be that our family trips are related to
open-air museums or other historical places. Apart from
riding a bicycle, this dad trains his sons in sword fighting,
and the eldest son, despite his young age has already
become a great warrior.
17 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Their parents, when they go to work, put on the costumes of
princes from the 10th century, or the end of the 15th
century, or uniforms from 1945. Moreover, our children
regularly see our photos or media appearances, or they take
part in the recording of programmes or music videos with us.
The house is constantly full of people. Everyday they meet,
prepare something, or sing old songs.
It was for Borek, when he was still the only child, that I once
wrote a story about his adventures in the world of gods.
When Oskar appeared, he also wanted to appear in the book.
He imagined that as there is a book, Borek and the Gods of
the Slavs, the second part would be called Borek and Oscar
and the Gods of the Slavs". We had to wait for Racik to come
to us and then I wrote the second part about the legends of
the beginnings of Poland. All three brothers appeared in it
and our cat appeared there as well. Besides, I introduced
their own words in it- various funny twisted words usually
created by small children that I used to note down over the
years and then let their book heroes use. I think that
someday when they grow up, it will be an important
keepsake for them. This is how our sons are connected to
the Slavic region, not only communing with its culture daily,
not only spending holidays at Slavic or Viking festivals in
different countries, but also becoming characters from
books that tell their peers about this fascinating world. On
the one hand, it is fun for them, on the other hand, it is
normal to be on the covers of quite popular books. It is not
that there is a warrior leadership in our family, we usually
decide together- in some cases my opinion is more
important, in others Kasia's opinion matters the most.
In our community of reenactors, we also have the function
of a couple of voivodes (a man and a woman), each of them
managing some elements of the squad. In both of these
spheres, private and social, the warrior-voivode
compliments himself with a wonderful woman who realises
her humanity and femininity on many levels.
photo: Illustrating the arrival of the Slavs to Polabia (East Germany) in the 6th-7th centuries, during the filming of the docudrama "Die Slawen - Unsere geheimnisvollen Vorfahren", 2017.
18 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
The roles of the wife and mother are of course extremely
important, but no less than that of a romantic lover or an
artist who brings her projects to life. Whenever these are
book illustrations, series of linocuts, or "motanki"
(traditional, magic Slavonic dolls). She is able to combine
modernity with tradition in an interesting way because by
being interested in classical art as well as abstract, and
especially conceptual one, she can use her tool to work on
traditionally Slavonic themes.
Illustrating our lives differently, I train in sword fighting and
boxing, and Kasia trains yoga or the so-called Slavonic
gymnastics. This is probably a good illustration of who we
are together and each one individually. Kasia runs the
household and says she regrets that she does not have so
much time to be able to give it entirely to the children
because she remembers how lucky she was to have her
mother for herself when she was at home and took care of
children. Besides, Kasia has a head full of ideas, pushing
themselves to be implemented, but everything cannot be
done at once. I know that today there is even a compulsion
for self-realisation in the first place, but it is quite an
immature attitude if you have kids. We remain ourselves, we
create something, but we must also sacrifice something to
be together and to create a wonderful home in which not
only ourselves, but also our children would feel safe and
develop. But, this is exactly what we want! Our choice is to
be together and create something together, our world. I can
assure you that nothing came easy and each of us was
somehow disadvantaged. We want it to be good and we fight
for it. People often forget about it, and then melt over
internet memes with slogans that at the end of life it turns
out that only family, loved ones, and time are important. So
if you feel touched with such a picture, then apply it! You can
have both, a happy marriage, a happy family and selffulfilment.
But it costs a lot, a lot of work.
We are also lucky that, apart from numerous trips, we work
at home, partly on our own tasks, partly together, for
example on a paper to be published or preparing shows. For
example, I am writing a book or dealing with formal or
technical matters, while Kasia is working on illustrations or
promoting our books. We spend almost all the time together
and yet we are not bored. When, for example, during my
writing work, I leave my office and Kasia is between her
activities, we catch each other for a moment and talk about
something – not only about domestic matters (I do not even
mention it) but about culture, music, art, people, or society.
We are a married couple who can argue about the meaning of
a picture or performance, haha, seriously!
lovePoland: If someone visiting Poland is interested in the
topic - where should he direct his steps?
To the most famous places like Biskupin or Wolin, or perhaps
to another one? I don't think I know any more.
Igor: Of course, Wolin, to be precise, the Wolin-Jomsborg-
Wineta Center of Slavs and Vikings. If someone likes mass
events, of course, then at the beginning of August we have
the world's largest early medieval festival, about which you
wrote in your magazine a few issues ago. Before the festival,
there are workshops, which means incomparably fewer
people, also fewer performers, but much greater access to
them, and there is live craftsmanship. Besides, the museum is
open from April until October.
Biskupin is, of course, an icon of Polish archaeology. The
most famous are the long houses, the embankment and the
gate of the reconstructed settlement from the Bronze Age,
but probably not everyone remembers that there was also an
early medieval settlement found in Biskupin and a few years
ago. It was also reconstructed exactly on the site of the
original one, preserving the original urban layout in its
entirety. Where there was a house, there is a house now, in
the places of workshops, there are workshops, and where
there was once a hearth, there is a hearth now. On top of all
this, there is also the reconstruction of Neolithic houses,
from the Younger Stone Age. In individual segments, there
are reenactors, reconstructing old activities- even the fields
are ploughed with oxen. The archaeological festival takes
place in September and lasts 9 days with a rich educational
program. If someone is in southern Poland, there is a socalled
"Karpacka Troja", a beautifully situated archaeological
open-air museum in Trzcinica. These are probably the most
important reconstructions, not to mention all the museums,
as well as historical festivals, staging battles across Poland
and regarding all historical periods, ranging from the Stone
Age events, through antiquity, the long Middle Ages,
Sarmatian Poland, until world wars, and beyond. You just
need to look them up in a calendar to check where the
seventeenth-century Swedes are besieging a castle and
where the fifteenth-century Poles and Lithuanians are going
to slaughter the Teutonic Knights. Cedynia, Grunwald,
Malbork, in winter Pomerania from 1945- you may take your
pick.
lovePoland: Your books are published mainly in Polish, but I
know that some of them are also available in English. Which
ones? Are you planning to translate other of your titles?
Igor: Yes, some of my books and others from Triglav
Publishing House are available in English- for example the
entire series Viking and Slavic Ornamental Design, Vol. 1, 2,
and 3, and Vendel and Dark Age Ornamental Design. I have
already talked about Borek and the Slavonic Gods.
19 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
All of these are available on the Triglav Publishing
House website if someone in Europe would like to buy
them, in the United States on the Winged Hussar
Publishing website, and large mail-order bookstores.
On our website and in numerous online bookstores in
different countries (England, Sweden, Finland, Norway,
Germany, Czech Republic, Switzerland, France) you can
also buy these books and Viking Dress Code: Textile
and Leather Clothing in Scandinavia by Kamil Rabiega,
or Viking and Slavic Cuisine by Małgorzata Krasna-
Korycińska.
At the moment, work is underway on the translation of
the album Meet the Slavs, which should be released
this year in the USA and should be available in various
bookstores. In the relatively near future, I would like to
have an English-language edition of About Warriors of
the Slavs: Squads and Battles on Land and Sea.
Perhaps also something more serious about the beliefs
of the Slavs.
Igor Górewicz, Szczecin, February 2021
Selected from the books by Igor.
20 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
photo: Announcing one of Jomsborg victories in the battle of Wolin.
photo::
in the
Kasia,
of the
attire
social
highest
classes,
the
presents
characteristic
of
jewellery
Slavic women.
photo: Patryk Kosmider , Getty Images
21 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
photo:
For a while, the family has been complete. Here, the first historic trip of 3-month-old Racibor, Oslo 2016.
23 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
photos:
1. Top: Czcibor as young "Niemir" from the "Piast Total War" exhibition.
2. With Racibor in Neustadt-Glewe (Germany), June 2018.
3. Bottom left: In the role of a prince.
24 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
photos:
1. Top: Oscar as the youngest incarnation of "Niemir" from the "Piast Total War" exhibition.
2. As Mieszko I, leading the armoured squad during the Great Independence Parade on August 15, 2018 in Warsaw, organized on the
occasion of the 100th anniversary of regaining independence by Poland. In addition to military units, groups of reenactors paraded
there, presenting the traditions of the Polish Arms of various eras. "Pancerni Triglava" project was the first group attempt to recreate
the appearance of the cavalry from the First Piasts' period.
3. Bottom left: In casual clothes at one of the festivals.
25 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Slaves, Triglav Strongold Warband IGOR GÓREWICZ
photos Marek Kalisiński
Manoeuvres of Pancerni Triglava in the "PaTaTaj" stable in Kanie, near Warsaw,
preparing us for the Independence Parade, June 2018.
Slaves, Triglav Strongold Warband IGOR GÓREWICZ
photos Marek Kalisiński
During the filming for the Jomsvikings promotional video, 2017.
Slaves, Triglav Strongold Warband IGOR GÓREWICZ
photos Marek Kalisiński
With Radosław Hubert and Grzegorz "Ulv" Kaczmarski, realizing the film combat
scenes, Ukranenland 2017.
Slaves, Triglav Strongold Warband IGOR GÓREWICZ
photos Marek Kalisiński
With this sword signal, Igor sends Jomsborg Army to attack and begins the Battle of
Wolin.
Some of 500 Jomsborg Vikings from all over the world who came to celebrate their 30th
anniversary. Founded by four people in 1988 in London, Jomsborg today has over 1,000 Vikings
on several continents. The celebration took place at the Slavic Wallmuseum Starigard in
Oldenburg in Holstein (Germany), April 2018.
Slaves, Triglav Strongold Warband IGOR GÓREWICZ
photos Marek Kalisiński
Slaves, Triglav Strongold Warband IGOR GÓREWICZ
photos Marek Kalisiński
Drużyna Grodu Trzygłowa in (almost) all its glory, during the celebration of the 20th
anniversary, Szczecin, September 1,2018.
LUBACZÓW COUNTY AND EASTERN ROZTOCZE
GREEN FIELDS AND HISTORY
WORDS & PHOTOS
Krystian Kłysewicz | Imagine Pictures
www.facebook.com/RoztoczeHD/
Preparing for a conversation with Krystian about the Eastern Roztocze and the Lubaczów region, I concluded that this area of Poland can be
described in three main words: the beauty of nature, active tourism and historical monuments. Probably, like any classification or
comparison, it will have its weaknesses, but if look for generalisations, this will probably be one of the most correct...
TLP: Krystian, why have you become interested in
photographing and filming this region of Poland? Perhaps
because of family ties, your origin, but I do not suspect it to
be the only reason?
KK: My family is not related to the region. My father comes
from Słupsk, my mother is from the neighbourhood of
Leżajsk and I am the fruit of their removal to Horyniec-
Zdrój. As a result, I did not have the opportunity to listen to
stories about the history of the region at home, I got to
know it literally like a tourist who came here, only for a little
longer stay. My main interest has always been associated
with mountains, I love trekking, but with my camera, I
decided to walk around my local sites.
To break out of the pattern that the grass is
always greener on the other side of the fence.
Living in such a picturesque land, I just don't
have to travel far to have an interesting location
for my photographic work. Moreover, there is
also the history of the region. Complicated,
inconvenient but very interesting. With my films
and photos, I present the beauty of the Eastern
Roztocze not only to curious people from all
over Poland but even to residents, as many
places here are hardly visited due to the difficult
access. I treat the surrounding area as my home,
literally, such a big one. I feel good there and I do
not want to leave it.
Fruit trees in the middle of the field, typical of Roztocze. Photo: Krystian Kłysewicz | Imagine Pictures
TLP: In the Magazine, we not only present photos, but also
show newcomers around sites, tell them about the history
and discover interesting places.
The Eastern Roztocze, its Subcarpathian part, is probably
not the most frequently visited by tourists? Lubaczów
region does not appear in various publications as often as
famous, although very small, Zwierzyniec. Generally speaking
- is it justified in your opinion? What interesting has eastern
Roztocze to offer?
KK: In my opinion, the low popularity of the Eastern
Roztocze comes from the post-war turmoil. These areas
have become historically uncomfortable and thus forgotten.
Besides, there were administrative borders that separated
east Roztocze from its western part, so we have become
here a small, almost uninhabited island on the map of
Roztocze. Everything is changing, however, and the
initiatives to "unite" the whole of Roztocze make us more
noticeable.
However, you can still see the border between the provinces
- literally, it is enough to go to Susiec and then to Narol -the
same area, but two different worlds.
Do we lose our attractiveness because of this? Not at all!
We are the undiscovered gem of the whole Roztocze. We are
not yet a typical commercial area like above-mentioned
Zwierzyniec, Susiec or Krasnobród.
I can boldly say that we are an exclusive product, for
connoisseurs. Different parts of Roztocze are neither equal
nor the same. What do we have that they don't have in
Western or Central Roztocze?
We have magic, literally, hidden from the tourists. We are
more demanding for visitors. There is nothing handed on a
platter. You have to discover many attractions by yourself in
the forests.
The routes are not trampled, they are even empty. If
someone is tired of the Bieszczady Mountains or the
Western Roztocze and the crowds of people, he or she can
come to us. You have to feel and understand this area, learn
about its history. In the forests, we have remains of villages,
beautiful cemeteries, churches, wooden architecture,
roadside witnesses of history carved in Bruśno stone,
palaces. All this is surrounded by pristine nature.
TLP: I would like you to take us to some of the places shown
in your photos. At the beginning, let's go outdoors. What is
characteristic of the landscape of this area? These are not
mountains, hills or vast lakes. Can a landscape without these
values still seem appealing?
On one of the websites devoted to Roztocze, I saw a slogan
- "catch a second breath" or maybe "space and vast fields
allow for a respite from the daily rush"... What kind of active
attractions does the East Roztocze offer to tourists?
The combination of fields, meadows, hills, ravines, swamps,
rivers and forests creates a very interesting landscape. It is
the sunniest area in the whole Poland. The summer days wake
up in beautiful mists in the valleys, the colourful sunsets
delight and the night sky is very starry.
When photographing, I try to take advantage of these
qualities, and I especially like the sunrises. After all, we are in
the Eastern Roztocze and I feel obliged by the name itself.
Thanks to the rather low tourist traffic, we still have the
opportunity to commune with pristine nature. The rivers are
dominated by beavers, wild boars sleep in the swamps during
the day, in the forests you can meet deer, elk, lynx and even a
wolf. The sky is dominated by predators, with the white-tailed
eagle at the forefront. The idyllic countryside of the villages
makes time pass really slower here. The quintessence of the
"catch a second breath" slogan will surely be a summer
sunrise on Dahany - a mid-forest clearing, the site of a prewar
village. Virtually, every morning you can see it flooded
with fog on which the sun draws the shadows of trees. This
view itself forces you to take a deep breath. And this is not
the only place that impresses in this way. A visit to the
cemetery in Stare Bruśno or Stara Huta is an equally mystical
experience. The best way to explore these areas is by using a
bicycle - we have a lot of trails or forest roads that are
perfect for cycling trips.
Dome - Werchrata pearl of Roztocze - dome of the church, former Orthodox church of
St. George from 1910. Photo: Krystian Kłysewicz | Imagine Pictures
39 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
TLP: Now, the places. Some of your photos that we are showing
in the Magazine present the monuments of the Eastern
Roztocze. One of them is the Count Łosia's Palace in Narol. I
admit that I don't know much about this place. What's its story,
is it worth visiting?
KK: The Palace in Narol is the most beautiful palace in the whole
Roztocze. Some consider it an undiscovered architectural gem of
Poland. It was built in the mid-18th century on the initiative of
Antoni Feliks, on the plan of a horseshoe - the Łosias' coat of
arms. The building is situated on a hill. It consists of a main
rectangular building connected by semi-circular facades with two
smaller side pavilions. Antoni was an art lover and he managed to
gather a large collection. There was also a drama and music
school educating artistically gifted youth. Unfortunately, the
palace had also some tragic episodes – it was burned down,
plundered and its life ended for many years by the Soviets. It has
been trying to recover from the ruins since the war, and it has
been doing very well in recent years. Currently, you can enter its
site, but the works are still ongoing. In the past, there was a
beautiful garden behind the palace - now, only some monumental
old trees remained there. The road to Podlesina, planted with
chestnuts so willingly photographed during flowering and
autumn, is an extension of the palace axis. Despite the lack of
interior decoration, the palace attracts tourists from all over
Poland as it is one of the most famous attractions of the
Eastern Roztocze.
TLP: Sacred buildings seem to be an indispensable part of the
Roztocze landscape. Although we do not show many of them, on
this occasion, they are definitely worth mentioning. One of these
objects is the dome of St. Joseph the Worker Church (formerly
the Orthodox Church of St. George) from 1910, another an
Orthodox Church in Radruż entered on the UNESCO World
Heritage List. Do you think sacred buildings constitute an
important cultural element of this region? Are they an important
tourist attraction?
KK: Orthodox and Catholic churches dominate the landscape of
Roztocze and their domes, visible from a distance, are an
interesting landscape element, worth photographing. The
above-mentioned dome of the church located in Werchrata -
emerging from the fields blooming with rapeseed - is an unusual
frame - a unique view, influencing the definition of Werchrata as
the pearl of Roztocze. The main attraction of the region is
certainly the Orthodox church complex in Radruż with the
Orthodox church of St. Paraskeva. This Orthodox church is
considered to be the oldest wooden temple of the Eastern rite in
Poland. It is surrounded by a wall that used to be defensive and
there is a high bell tower next to the church. The Subcarpathian
Wooden Architecture Trail with its Lubaczów - Roztocze section
might be an interesting journey into the past.
A visit to a dark Orthodox church, smelling of old wood, with
beautiful iconostases and unusual acoustics is an extraordinary
experience. For me, churches are an element that in some way,
apart from stonework and roadside crosses, defines the Eastern
Roztocze and its specific atmosphere.
TLP: Staying with the sacred and at the same time historical
themes - such presence of various types of sacred objects may
prove the affection of the inhabitants of this land to tradition,
and at the same time it is a kind of historical monument.
Nowadays, there are not as many dissenters in this area as
there used to be before the second world war. There are almost
no Jews anymore, not many Orthodox.
KK: Before the war, the area of Eastern Roztocze was a mix of
numerous cultures. Poles, Ukrainians, Jews and even German
settlers lived here in harmony - each of the nations with their
own separate culture and, above all, religion. Hence, there are
lots of both Catholic and Orthodox churches as well as
synagogues from which those in Cieszanów, Wielkie Oczy and
Stary Dzików remained. This mix can now be touched by visiting
old cemeteries such as those in Stare Bruśno or Stara Huta,
where tombstones written in Cyrillic and Polish are mixed
together. In Lubaczów, there is the only still existing Jewish
cemetery with beautiful matzevahs. What all these religions had
in common, is the stone from the quarry under Mount Bruśno,
from which it was mined. Self-taught artists who wrote the
history of the region in their products lived in Stare Bruśno -
the largest stone centre in Roztocze. They delight not only in
cemeteries as stone crosses fit into the landscape at the
roadsides and in forests.
TLP: What's the story of the Eastern Roztocze? It is probably
not an 'easy' story, devoid of often dramatic events?
KK: The history is downright dramatic and certainly influenced
by the fact that the region, from the tourist perspective, is
being discovered only now. During the war, the occupiers
brutally dealt with the large Jewish population living in these
areas.
There used to be ghettos, deportations to extermination camps.
Already during the war, the Polish-Ukrainian conflict intensified.
The neighbours became enemies, families turned on each other.
The times were tragic when UON-UPA bands used to prowl the
area. The buildings of most towns and villages were burnt.
Villages and their inhabitants literally perished. The solution was
the Operation Vistula and resettlement. After them, dozens of
villages and hamlets disappeared from the map and landscape,
numerous Orthodox churches got deserted and fell into ruin,
and this history became a taboo subject. However, many years
have passed since those dramatic events and now the
generation that I represent treats those times as a sad episode
that cannot be forgotten but which also cannot block our
development.
40 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
A roadside shrine in Wola Wielka. Photo: Krystian Kłysewicz | Imagine Pictures
41 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
History and culture created the landscape we have today.
Picturesque, mysterious, maybe sad, but attracting like a
magnet. It is a bit sentimental here, but at least we still have
our own unique atmosphere, real, tangible, undamaged by
commerce, stalls and trash that we meet in the largest tourist
centres in Poland.
TLP: I know that you and some of your friends have recently
released an album about Roztocze. I hope that the readers will
like it and at the same time it will be a kind of inspiration for
visiting the area. As a socialite of the Eastern Roztocze - where
would you recommend tourists to go? Is it a part of Poland with
a well-developed tourist base? What are your favourite places?
KK: Our album is a story about these areas. In my, Tomek
Mielnik and Tomek Michalski's photos, we can find the essence
of the Eastern Roztocze, through beautiful landscape elements
to history, architecture and culture. It is the work of many years
of photographic expeditions, a one-of-a-kind and fully complete
study of the topic. It will surely become a bible and guide for
those wishing to visit these areas, not only for photography
enthusiasts.
Among the places worth seeing, one should mention Horyniec -
Zdrój, the best-developed tourist destination with numerous
accommodation places, a beautiful Spa Park and many
attractions in the area, such as the Orthodox church in Radruż or
the picturesque chapel on the water in Nowiny Horynieckie.
One cannot forget about the cemetery in Stare Bruśno. The next
point on the route is Narol, the palace located there, bunkers of
the Molotov line hidden in the forests, and the extraordinary
Bukowy Las (Beech Forest) nature reserve. Cieszanów is an
example of multiculturalism, there is a Catholic church, an
Orthodox church and a synagogue in sight, the CieszFanów Rock
Festival takes place here, and in the small village of Gorajec - the
Borderland Culture Festival Folkowisko.
Lubaczów is a royal city with a co-cathedral, an Orthodox church
and, above all, a great Museum of Borderlands. To taste the local
cuisine, it is worth visiting Dębowy Dwór and Cztery Stawy in
Ruda Różaniecka, Kresowa Osada in Basznia Dolna or Cafe
Sanacja in Horyniec-Zdrój. The last place that needs to be
mentioned and which is the quintessence of these areas is
Dahany, a mid-forest clearing between Werchrata and Wola
Wielka which I mentioned earlier. I cordially invite you to my
home - the Eastern Roztocze.
42 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Landscape of Roztocze. Photo: Krystian Kłysewicz | Imagine Pictures
Count Łoś palace in Narol. Photo: Krystian Kłysewicz | Imagine Pictures
43 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Eastern Roztocze
Top photo: A white stork in the first rays of the rising sun.
Middle left: St. Nepomuk Shrine in Nowiny Horynieckie.
Middle right: A roadside cross in Werchrat.
Bottom left: Devil's stone (Diabelski Kamień) near Manasterz - the largest "outlander' in the Eastern Roztocze.
Bottom middle: Storks and the brightest super full moon of 2020.
Bottom right: A lonely tree in the fields near Werchrata - in the background "Wielki Dział", one of the highest hill of the Eastern Roztocze
China Moses fot. Sylvain Norget
Top photo: The church in Radruż, entered on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Middle left: Werechata shrouded in fog after sunset.
Middle right: A misty sunset in the forests of Roztocze - Dahany and Wielki Dział in the distance
Bottom left: Picturesque rape fields in Huta Złomy
Bottom middle: The fox met at sunrise at the ponds in New Siola
Bottom right: ndulating fields near Łówcza
The quintessence of Eastern Roztocze - picturesque rape fields in Huta Złomy
Krystian Kłysewicz | Imagine Pictures
www.facebook.com/RoztoczeHD
Chestnut avenue in Narol
Krystian Kłysewicz | Imagine Pictures
www.facebook.com/RoztoczeHD
Krystian Kłysewicz | Imagine Pictures
www.facebook.com/RoztoczeHD
You can feel the faith of the people who
built these churches here, these people
carried bricks on their backs to the church
tower, they laboriously rebuilt them after
the war, they defended them in communism
against destruction and they look after them
to this day, although in human terms they do
not get anything in return.
Marcin Gądek
on photo: originally Orthodox church St. Michael the Archangel
in Dubno, currently used as a filian church parish in Leluchów
CHURCHES FROM HEAVEN
THE PEARL OF THE POLISH ARCHITECTURE
WORDS & PHOTOS MARCIN GĄDEK
www.facebook.com/Kosciolyznieba
"Churches are the manifestation of the faith and piety of our ancestors, as well as their sense of beauty and harmony. Their soaring
towers point to heaven"
I found the photographs of priest Marcin Gądek, posted on the "Churches of Heaven" profile, nearly a year ago. At the beginning, I did not pay attention to
their author, but I was simply interested in beautiful shots of churches or, more broadly, Polish religious architecture in his lens. Only much later did I notice
their author as well; finding out that he is a priest in the parish of Our Lady of the Scapular in Szerzyny, located on the border of the picturesque Pogórze
Ciężkowickie and Beskid Niski.
lovePoland: Marcin, I wanted to ask about the origin
of your passion for photography. It is quite unusual
for a priest, but while writing this text I realised
that there is no contradiction. Your "motto" already
expresses a certain inner logic between what you
do every day as a priest and your photographic
passion. Photography, like other types of art, is
traditionally associated with faith, responding to
the need for communing with beauty, and for many,
with the Absolute. Do you see your adventure with
photography partly in this way?
Marcin Gądek: For me, photography is an attempt
to look at the world in a better light, because
everyday life is not always like that. It can be even
overwhelming, especially now, in a pandemic.
We live in a kind of shadow and such a life without
noticing the beauty can become unbearable. We need to
move away from it, experience the beauty of the
landscape, see the world in a different light. For me, it
is fascinating that to experience this beauty you do not
have to go to tourist paradises. It is enough to go to the
neighbouring hill to see the church emerging from the
mists at sunrise. This search for beauty in photography
is also a search for God. Because it was God who
created it, He composed it in such a harmonious way.
Beauty is not chaos, anarchy. Beauty is a harmonious
composition that expresses the Creator of this beauty.
When we photograph, we try to show the world in a
beautiful light, arrange the composition so that it is
interesting, and that it enchants and carries the human
spirit upwards, towards God.
on photo:
War cemetery No. 34 in Ołpiny.
This war cemetery contains 577
war graves from the First World
War: 366 Russian, 127 Austro-
Hungarian and 84 German.
53 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
lovePoland: A bit more as an introduction. I've heard that your
photographic passion started quite unusually, didn't it? What
were its beginnings? How do you share your time between
pastoral service and the necessity of, sometimes quite tedious,
preparations for photo sessions in the field, and then the work
on the picture itself? When visiting a given place, do you try to
learn its history, do you talk to people who look after the
photographed object?
Marcin: My passion for photography began with macro
photography, which also requires a lot of patience. Soon after
that I became fascinated with the mountain landscape. It was
also a form of rehabilitation and health recovery after 3 knee
surgeries (it turns out that stillness is the worst thing for
health). A few orthopaedists advised against it. They told me to
find myself another passion, but I was stubborn. This
stubbornness, I can say now, as well as the fact that I have met
some great doctors and physiotherapists, saved my health as
mountains are a great way to maintain my physical condition.
Later, I became interested in flying and sacred architecture.
I am lucky to live in a region that is very interesting in terms of
geography and culture, so you don't have to travel far (I have
my favourite cross or chapel in each of the neighbouring towns).
In summer, sunrise is very early and sunset is late. You can take
a short trip before the Holy Mass, and when there are beautiful
clouds, then also during the day. In winter, the sun sets in the
afternoon and in the evening you can photograph beautifully lit
churches. A little later, the Milky Way. Each season and time of
the day has its charms and possibilities- God does not let us get
bored, creating such an interesting and beautiful world.
Each trip is an extraordinary adventure and a person is young as
long as he is attracted to adventure (a new peak, a different
season, a different light, a sacred object, fog, people
encountered, sometimes disappointment because the light did
not flash). It teaches patience and accepting everything as a gift
because you often come back without photos, but it also allows
you to experience something beautiful and unique.
I always try to prepare for the outdoor pictures, I look for
information in various lexicons and guides, and I check from
which side I will have the sun. It is always worth talking to the
parish priest or other people who look after the church. You can
feel the faith of the people who built these churches here.
These people carried bricks on their backs to the church tower,
they laboriously rebuilt them after the war, they defended them
in communism against destruction, and they look after them to
this day (although in human terms they do not get anything in
return). But, they have much more than that as God blesses
them. You can see that churches unite small communities and
extract a lot of nobility from them.
lovePoland: You come from Lesser Poland. You have probably
spent most of your life here, haven't you? The region is one of
the richest in terms of landscape values, and probably one of
the most abundant in monuments of sacred architecture. Many
of them were entered on the UNESCO list. Does communing
with these types of "objects" (you photograph not only
churches but also roadside crosses or chapels, quite common in
this area) have a deeper, sometimes hidden meaning?
Marcin: Lesser Poland is a very beautiful and diverse land. Lots
of people who come here focus on the Tatra Mountains and
Krakow. It turns out that most of the UNESCO sites are small
wooden churches or Orthodox churches built by simple people,
with a great sense of proportion and deep sacred symbolism.
The purpose of the church is to point to heaven. That is why,
especially in Gothic, we have the soaring towers. The spatial
orientation of the church has an eschatological meaning- the
person who stands inside, turns to the east, from where Christ
is to come as the rising sun. That is why the church is a sign of
hope and resurrection. The paintings constituting the pauperum
Bible, for example, in the church in Binarowa, speak strongly.
Nothing is accidental in Orthodox churches either. The number
of domes, the division of the object, the structure of the
iconostasis, all of this has a theological meaning that was very
significant to the faithful in the past, and unfortunately is less
and less understandable to contemporaries.
Recently, I have been photographing a lot from a bird's eye
view, using a drone, as it also allows me to see the surroundings
of a church or orthodox church. They are often very charmingly
situated, a bit off the beaten track, on the hills. By going higher
you can show more planes, and it is very interesting. You can
see how human works fit in with God's creation.
Crosses and chapels are such special places for me. It can be
said they result from the faith of people. They were built
because the children recovered or someone came back, safe and
sound, from the First World War. It is beautiful that there are
always fresh flowers, someone mows the grass, May services
are sung, and then people often gather there to have some
snacks together. All this for the glory of God, the glory of Saint
Mary, and all saints. Beskid Niski and Pogórze Ciężkowickie may
not be crowded with tourists, but from Liwocz, Grzywacka
Mountain, Rotunda, through the Range of Brzanka to Tuchów,
there are many charming places.
lovePoland: The next question, somewhat related to the
previous one: the part of Lesser Poland that you show in your
photos is probably not the most famous or frequently visited
region of Poland, especially by foreign tourists. Being recently in
this area, I heard that "you don't care about some big tourist
visits". First of all, do you think that this part of Poland has a lot
to offer to visitors? What kind of attractions or experiences are
these? Do you think that the opinion I quoted above is common?
If so, where does it come from?
54 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
"When visiting Beskid Niski, or Pogórze Cieżkowickie, you look for more peace and quiet. Many beautiful untrampled trails, the Lemko
cultural heritage, the art of wooden architecture and stonework, abandoned churches, cemeteries, crosses among hills and forests."
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing
elit. Proin sed arcu dui. Aliquam quis ipsum non magna
auctor porta eget sit amet ex. Nulla viverra pulvinar
porttitor. Suspendisse ut leo id nisl fermentum vulputate.
Nunc tincidunt nisi justo, at feugiat quam congue sed.
Nulla ipsum enim, pellentesque at ex non, tincidunt
egestas ligula. Curabitur ornare, lacus ut gravida
elementum, diam orci theais. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet,
consectetur adipiscing elit. Mauris varius orci t
empus, iaculis lectus mattis, sagittis mi. In hac habitasse
platea dictumst. Integer a sem enim. Integer sed augue
nibh. Cras auctor purus eget sem lacinia sagittis. Phasellus
at feugiat quam congue sed. Nulla ipsum enim,
pellentesque at ex non. sagittis.
photos:
this photo: Collegiate Church Corpus Christi in Biecz
Bottom left: Church of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Rzepiennik Biskupi.
Bottom centre: Chapel of Christ's Cross and Our Lady, Queen of Peace on Mount
Liwocz
Bottom right: Church of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Rzepiennik Biskupi.
55 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Marcin: People live very simply here. There is no such
commercialism as in other regions, nor mass tourism. I think
these are not places for someone who wants to come and party
for a few days, forgetting about everything. Many, also foreign
tourists, come to visit the Wooden Architecture Trail and I have
experienced a lot of openness and kindness of church caretakers.
When visiting Beskid Niski, or Pogórze Cieżkowickie, you look for
more peace and quiet. Many beautiful untrampled trails, the
Lemko cultural heritage, the art of wooden architecture and
stonework, abandoned churches, cemeteries, crosses among hills,
and forests. A simple stone cross or a chapel with an unusual
history, situated by a picturesque road, when the sun is rising on
the horizon and fog is rolling, and there is silence all around, you
almost feel God's presence in these places created by the faith
of the ancestors. It is also an extraordinary experience to get to
know the war cemeteries of World War I.
After the bloody Battle of Gorlice, the emperor promised every
soldier a worthy burial. That's why they are located in the most
beautiful places, on the hills above the villages. They were built
by the best architects, including Dusan Jurkovic, who used
elements of local culture. In these cemeteries, everyone, no
matter whether a soldier in the Austro-Hungarian or Russian
armies, were buried with equal respect. This respect, even for
the enemy, is very meaningful. Death unites and reconciles the
opponents. It is worth visiting Rotunda, Wzgórze Pustki,
Staszkówka, Lichwin, Ołpiny, Grab, Beskidek, and Sękowa- those
are only some of the beautifully situated war cemeteries.
lovePoland: If these are your "homelands", where would you
invite tourists who want to get to know this somewhat sleepy
part of our country? In a short conversation, before this text was
written, you mentioned Biecz (I hope we will come back to this
topic again), where else?
Marcin: If you want to experience the atmosphere of a Galician
town, you must visit Biecz. It is probably the most photogenic
town I know, situated on a hill above the Ropa River, with
preserved medieval towers and walls, a beautiful collegiate
church, market square, and executioner's tower. The history of
the city is also fascinating, especially in its heyday, with the great
merits of Bishop Marcin Kromer. Nearby, in the vicinity of my
parish of Szerzyny,
I recommend four beautiful wooden churches: St. Martin's in
Czermna, St. Anna's in Święcany, St. Michael the Archangel's in
Binarowa, and St.John the Baptist's in Rzepiennik Biskupi. Not far
away, on the top of Liwocz, there is a chapel of Our Lady Queen
of Peace with a viewing platform. There are also many historic
chapels and crosses in the area, many of which are posted on my
Facebook page Kościoły z nieba (Churches from Heaven).
have an additional comment, sometimes a fragment from the
Holy Bible. It is definitely not accidental – what is crucial about
them? You talk about light a lot and I don't think you mean just
the right sunlight, do you?
Marcin: It's like in life- we can show someone in an ugly light and
a bad perspective and then it is better not to show at all. But we
can also show it in a beautiful light.
As a priest, I try not only to show the world in nice light in the
photographs, but also to lead to this Light that gives meaning to
everything that surrounds us. This is also the meaning of sacred
architecture, to lead to God. That’s why I describe my photos,
writing about what I experienced while taking them, using the
Holy Bible or holy texts.
lovePoland: I also know that you are quite actively involved in
the promotion of the region. You participated in photo
exhibitions and you have organised a photo competition for
young people. In which direction do you want to develop your
photographic passion?
Marcin: I also teach at school and I can see how important it is
for children and teenagers to have some hobbies and passions,
especially now when people isolate themselves from one
another. Photographing both the beauty of nature and sacred
art helps to develop both physically (because you have to go to
the top of a mountain, for example), mentally (self-esteem,
gaining skills, and knowledge), and spiritually through
communing with the sacred prayers. Hence, the photo contests.
I am also happy to share my knowledge about the technique or
places I visit. I would like to do it as a passion that gives me a lot
of joy and satisfaction, opens me up to the people I meet, and at
the same time attracts young people to do something that may
not give them any material benefit at once, but will strengthen
them physically, mentally, and spiritually.
Marcin Gadek
lovePoland: Coming back to your photos – what are they for you?
Browsing through them on your profile, I noticed that they often
56 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
photo: Church of Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Domosławice
photo: church of st. Marcin Biskupa and the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Consolation in Czermna
57 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Orthodox church of the Dormition of the Mother of God
in Klimkówka.
photo:
Orthodox church of the Dormition of the Mother of God in Klimkówka, currently a branch
church of the parish in Łosie. The church was erected in 1810 and reconstructed in 1876
or 1928 when, for example, the navewas widened and two vestries at the presbytery were
added and so it became a structureresembling one on a Greek-cross plan. It is a northwestern
Lemko church featuring shingled walls while the roof is irregular, with a ridge,
covered with sheet metal and topped with small sheet-metal bulbs. The interior is covered
with flat ceilings. The walls inside feature polychrome decoration of 1935. The most
precious item inside is a neo-baroque iconostasis from the turn of the 18th and 19th
centuries and baroque side altarpieces.
Photo: Marcin Gądek
www.facebook.com/Kosciolyznieba
additional source of information: www.drewniana.malopolska.pl
58 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Church of Nativity of St. John the Baptist
in Gładyszów.
Photo: Marcin Gądek
www.facebook.com/Kosciolyznieba
additional source of information: www.drewniana.malopolska.pl
photo:
Church of Nativity of St. John the Baptist in Gładyszów. The Orthodox Parish
Church of the Nativity of St. John the Baptist was erected in 1857 as a Greek
Catholic Chapel.
In 1914 it was extended when it took on the function of the parish church,
after the other church burnt down. The walls of the oldest part are log,
covered with shingles, while the antechamber was built using post-frame
construction. The interior of the church is divided by the wall of the
iconostasis into a nave and a chancel, closed on three sides. In the chancel
there is folk polychrome with a large depiction of the Holy Trinity. The
iconostasis belonging to the church dates from the C20th.
59 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
St. Anna and Michael
the Archangel in
Żegiestów
Church of St. Anna and Michael the
Archangel in Żegiestów - built in the years
1917-1925 on the plan of the Greek cross, in
the tradition of church construction.
The building is made of stone and brick, onenave
with two sacristy annexes. The roof is
multi-hipped, covered with sheet metal,
topped with three octagonal extension
towers with bulbous domes. Symmetrical
domes are visible above the chancel and
women's gallery. The interior has a barrel
vault, with eight sections in the central part.
The interior, partly neo-Romanesque, comes
from the period 1959-1960. Its author is J.
Kania. Feretrons with the folk icons of
"Annunciation" and "Crucifixion of Christ
Pantocrator" from 1784, a Baroque chalice
of the 18th century, a carved paschal
candlestick from the turn of the 18th and
19th centuries, and a picture of "Christ in the
tomb", painted on a tin, have remained from
the old church furnishings.
The belfry is free-standing with three bells
cast in 1956-1972. The church was renamed
the Roman Catholic church of st. Anna and
St. Michael in the years 1946-1947. The
spring of St. Anna. According to the legend,
it gushed out on the day the church was
consecrated. Therefore, in the interwar
period, it became a place of pilgrimage for
local residents suffering especially from eye
diseases
Photo: Marcin Gądek
www.facebook.com/Kosciolyznieba
additional source of information: www.drewniana.malopolska.pl
61 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Church of st. Bishop Marcin
and the Sanctuary of Our
Lady of Consolation
in Czermna
St. Martin’s church in Czermna was built in
1520 where its devastated predecessor
hadstood once. In the 1700s the church was
considerably reconstructed, e.g. a chapel
covered with an octahedral dome was added.
This larch-wood church features a pillarframework
tower and log construction of the
walls, timbered on both sides with vertical
boards. The nave and presbytery are topped
with a single-ridge roof while the tower with
a pavilion roof. The interior is adorned with
polychrome decoration (1877). The rich
original fittings (18th/19th centuries) include
five altarpieces, a pulpit and an organ. The
main altarpiece features a copy of the
miraculous image of Our Lady of Consolation
(1500s) and the original is to be found in the
new church.
Sanctuary: The oldest information about the
existence of a church in this town comes
from 1312. It was allegedly built by a Maltese
knight - Petrasjusz Frykacz. It is one of
the most valuable historic sacral architecture
with a carcass construction. The interior is
decorated with figural and ornamental
polychrome from 1877. In the main altar until
2000 - next to the holly image - one could
admire the picture of the Holy Trinity
painted in 1870. On its sides stood the
figures of the Evangelists - Saint Luke with
an ox, Saint John with an eagle, Saint Mark
with a lion and Saint Matthew with a man.
There was a tabernacle below the Madonna.
Photo: Marcin Gądek
www.facebook.com/Kosciolyznieba
additional source of information: www.drewniana.malopolska.pl
63 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Gorlice Golgotha
In the past, there was a cross on Zamkowa
Hill (Góra Zamkowa) on which in the 1980s
there was a small plate with the inscription
"Pope John Paul II".
The father of Pope John Paul II – Karol
Wojtyła senior, probably stationed in the
uniform of an Austrian sergeant during
World War I in trenches located in the vicinity
of the hill and participated in the fights from
November 1914 to 2 May 1915. The first
Stations of the Cross were celebrated here
in 1994 by the initiator of the construction
of the Calvary – the priest of the parish
church of St. Andrzej Bobola. The inhabitants
of Gorlice have their Golgotha, to which they
make pilgrimages, where they take their
friends, which they proudly show to tourists.
It is situated on a hill more than a kilometre
away from the church of St. Andrzej Bobola.
Walking thoughtfully along the paths of
Gorlice's Golgotha, we admire the figure of
Christ in Ogrójec, the tower with Pensive
Christ, a Pieta, individual stations of the
cross and finally the Chapel of the Holy
Sepulchre. The four-meter-tall Statue of the
Risen Christ, located on a twelve-meter
pedestal, makes an amazing impression not
only over the hill, but over the entire town. It
is visible from a very long distance – it
welcomes and blesses Gorlice inhabitants,
visitors and tourists returning to their
homeland.
Photo: Marcin Gądek
www.facebook.com/Kosciolyznieba
65 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Greek-catholic Church
of the Protection
of the Mother of God,
currently a subsidiary
Roman Catholic church
of the parish in Łabowa
Formed Greek-Catholic Church of the Protection
of the Mother of God in Łabowa was build in
1784.
The church was entered on the list of monuments
in 1964.
The church funded by the Lubomirski family was
built of stone in 1784. After the displacement of
the Lemko people in 1945 and 1947, it stood
unused and fell into disrepair. Renovated in 1992
and since that year it serves as the Roman
Catholic branch church of the parish in Łabowa.
The building represents a type of a brick church
with a massive tower in the west elevation. It is
characterized by great architectural diversity in
terms of proportions and sizes, baroque towers in
the form of helmets on the roof of the temple, or
the tower's semicircular cornice on the clock face.
It became a model of solutions adopted in later
wooden churches. A sacristy was added to the
short chancel with a semicircular ending from the
north. The large nave has a pair of semicircular
transept chapels. The tower is topped with a
spherical cupola with a lantern, the saddle roof
and turrets are covered with sheet metal.
Inside, there is a figural and ornamental
polychrome in the tradition of Ruthenian painting
by W. Kryczewski, made in 1944. The Classicist
brick main altar, iconostasis and a music choir with
a baluster railing come from the mid-nineteenth
century.The church is surrounded by a stone wall
with a 19th century gate.
Photo: Marcin Gądek
www.facebook.com/Kosciolyznieba
67 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
DISCOVER HISTORIC
BRIDGES IN STANCZYKI
Stańczyki
text source: poland.pl and zabytek.pl
Bibliography
Karta ewidencyjna zabytków architektury i budownictwa, Wiadukty w Stańczykach, oprac. Mackiewicz J., 1978,
archiwum Wojewódzkiego Urzędu Ochrony Zabytków w Olsztynie Delegatura w Ełku.
Rams B., Opowieść o niepotrzebnych mostach w Stańczykach, „Borussia” 2008, nr 42, s. 177-184.
The viaducts built in the early 20th century are an example of exceptional architecture.
Stańczyki is a village in the administrative district of Gmina Dubeninki, within Gołdap County,
Warmian-Masurian Voivodeship, in northern Poland, close to the border with the Kaliningrad
Oblast of Russia. It lies approximately 7 kilometres east of Dubeninki, 23 km east of Gołdap,
and 152 km east of the regional capital Olsztyn. It is notable for two large railway viaducts of
the (now defunct) Gołdap-Żytkiejmy railway. Roughly 200 metres long and 36 metres high,
both are among the largest such constructions in Poland. Built of reinforced concrete, each of
the bridges has five arches of 15 metres of length each. The northern viaduct was constructed
between 1912 and 1914, the southern one was added between 1923 and 1926. Before 1945,
the area was part of Germany (East Prussia).
Bridges are reinforced concrete structure having five arches with
identical curves and just 15m apart. The architecture is characterised by
the size of their proportions and the pillars are decorated with reliefs
modelled on the Roman aqueducts at Pont du Gard.
The rail track was dismantled in 1945 by the Red Army. Since then no
train has passed this way. Until recently the viaducts were used by
bungee jumpers but an introduced ban has stopped the daredevils. On
the valley floor is a site for campers.
Limited access to the historic
building. The structure may be
seen from outside. The bridges are
presently private property, they
are fenced; access and parking
area are ticketed.
Address: 19-504 Wiadukty, Poland
Total length: 180 m
On the northern reaches of Masuria, near the city of Goldap are two
viaducts on the now unused railway line. Tourists to the Romincka
Forest are drawn by their unusual shape and height in this landscape.
The two viaducts were built between 1912 and 1918 and were part of
the already unused section of railway line between Goldap and
Zytkiejmy, a length of 31km.
They can be found beyond the village of Stanczyki where the railway
line crosses a huge valley, disproportionate in size to the small and
very picturesque River Biedzianka. The bridges are of a massive size
and are considered the highest in Poland. They are about 200m long
and 36m high.
68 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
photos: M. Ciszewski, polska.pl
History
The erection of the bridges was connected with the construction of the
railway line on the Gołdap-Żytkiejmy route. Not only the economic
reasons impacted the decision on launching the connection, but mainly
the military reasons. The line ran along the border with Russia, giving it
the rocade character (parallel route with respect to the potential front
line), facilitating the troops redeployment in case of war with Russia. On
the route of presently closed railway line Gołdap-Botkuny-Żytkiejmy,
apart from bridges in Stańczyki, there are also structurally-alike - also
historic - bridges and railway flyovers in Kiepojcie (by the Bludzia river)
and Galwiecie (by the Jarka river). The bridges were erected in stages:
the works commenced in 1912, finished in 1918 (southern bridge: 1912-
1914; northern bridge: 1918). The construction of bridges was the
biggest challenge for the route constructors. At the stage of design
works various structural options for the new bridges were analysed. The
cheapest one was selected, consisting in the construction of five-span
bridges of reinforced concrete. Investments were preceded by the land
survey. Railway line was put into use in 1927. In the 1930s it was mainly
used as a cargo line for the transport of aggregate. In 1938 on the
Gołdap-Żytkiejmy route three pairs of passenger trains were running
per day. Exploitation of the line was finished in 1945. On the southern
bridge no tracks were ever laid. After the end of World War II - in 1945 -
the tracks were dismantled by the Red Army; in 1949, the railway line
was never put back into use
For some period of time the owner was PKP [Polish State Railways],
which in 1993 handed over the land with bridges that was not used by
the company to the Agricultural Property of the State Treasury Agency.
In the 1990s the protection of the safety barriers of the bridge was
made, by supplementing the defects in reinforced concrete barriers
with fragments of steel profiles. In 2003 the bridges were sold to a
private person.
The bridges are located ca. 800 m to the North from the Stańczyki
village. They connect the shores of the valley, in which a small
Błędzianka river flows. The bridges were built in stages: first the pillars,
then the arches, then the padding of vaults. These are the five-span,
four-pillar (pillars with quadrangular cross-sections) structures, made
of reinforced concrete, with spans in the form of round arches with
similar dimensions. Three central spans have the clear span length of 28
m, side ones - 24 m. The total length of the bridges equals 178 m, the
height from the level of pavement of the bridge to the water surface in
the river equals 36 m, the width of the roadway between the
pavements - 3.4 m. The pavements are located higher than the
roadway; the width of the pavement equals approx. 80 cm. The facades
of the bridges are decorative (pilasters, supports with capitals). On the
external sides of each of the bridge there are concrete pavements with
a roadway in the middle; the balustrades are made of reinforced
concrete and are supplemented with fragments of steel profiles.
69 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
PLACES AND CUSTOMS
by Katarzyna Skóra
Katarzyna lived almost all her life in the Low Beskids. She is particularly interested in everyday
life in the former Lemko region. The imagination plays an important role in her life, helping to
feel the atmosphere of the visited places. She is into handicrafts, and specifically crocheting.
Working on various projects allows you to relax, in a sense it has become a way of life. She is
also passionate about photography. She tries to capture in her frames inanimate nature,
landscapes and the transience, in the broad sense of the word. Weekly photo trips have
already become a tradition.
Old Lemko traditions Easter customs
www.magurskiewyprawy.pl
Easter is the most important and joyful holiday of all Christians.
The feast of Easter is movable both in the Western Church, i.e.
Roman Catholics, and in the Eastern Church. Every few years it
happens that the followers of all rites celebrate this great feast
together. Such a situation takes place also this year. Another
such event will not happen until 2025!
In Lemko language, Easter is called “Wełykdeń”. Similarly to the
Roman Catholic church, the celebrations began on Palm Sunday,
known as "Kwitna Nedila" In the past, the Lemkos used to tie
twigs of catkins with a freshly twisted linen cord (a whip). They
were later taken to be blessed in the Orthodox church. The
catkin twigs played an important role, as they were stored and
used to incense the sick, were given to cows with their feed and
placed on the corners of newly built houses. During the storm,
the sticks of the catkins burned in the furnace were supposed
to "smoke out" the devil, after all, he was the one who caused
lightning. All these measures were supposed to bring happiness
and ward off disease. Just ordinary twigs, but they served
various purposes all year round.
In the poviat of Gorlice, there is a custom of "blessing the
fields". On Palm Sunday, a blessed cross made of sticks,
decorated like a palm tree, is stuck in the corner of each patch.
It is supposed to protect against natural disasters and hail.
Holy Thursday
is the day when Judas betrayed Jesus. There was a service
called "strast" in the Orthodox church, during which priests
would read 12 times extracts of the Gospel. The herdsmen came
to the service with whips spun for “Kwitna Nedila”, which they
used for making catkins' bunches. After reading each Gospel,
they tied one knot on it. If the shepherd happened to lose his
cattle during his work in the summer, it was enough to untie one
knot and the lost animal would immediately return.
In some villages of the Lemko region, bonfires were lit in the
fields on Thursday evening. As far as I know, this tradition is still
cultivated in many villages in Lesser Poland, not necessarily in
the Lemko lands. Making bonfires is a symbol of Judas'
punishment for the heinous act of treason.
Until today, in the south of Poland, at dusk on Holy Thursday, you
can see larger or smaller burning stakes.
It was not without reason that it was believed that on Thursday
you can see the wildfires flashing across the mountains to indicate
hidden treasures. It was believed that on that day the souls of the
dead wandered around the world. Holy Thursday began a strict
fasting that lasted until Sunday. The women started decorating
Easter eggs.
Good Friday
is the time of vigil. Fires were lit at the Orthodox churches and the
boys kept a constant watch there until Sunday.
On Holy Saturday evening or Sunday morning, baskets of food were
brought to be blessed. The basket contained cold cuts, bread, eggs,
salt and horseradish.
The most important place was occupied by "Paska" i.e. a circleshaped
wheat loaf, brought by men, which, after the blessing,
obviously acquired magical, healing and protective properties. After
blessing the food, everyone had to hurry home because whoever
reached it first, would be the first to finish the harvest. Those who
wanted to be lucky when picking mushrooms, should collect any
crackles or sticks on the way home and put them into the Easter
basket. The blessed loaves were carried around the house, and
then stored until Pentecost, i.e. “Rusala” and then they were eaten
to ensure an abundance of bread in the following year.
Eggs are certainly an indispensable element of
Easter.
Colourful Easter eggs made by Lemkos, the so-called "malowanky",
were made using the batik technique. To make them, you need hot
wax, which is used to decorate eggs by drawing lines - tears, dots,
etc. Later, when the eggs were dyed with natural dyes, such as
onion peel, it was possible to wipe off the wax layer by holding the
egg over the candle flame.
Thanks to natural dyes, it is possible to obtain such colours like:
- green - obtained thanks to a decoction of nettle, periwinkle, and,
above all, from young winter rye;
72 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
- yellow - its different shades can be obtained thanks to the onion
peelings;
- red - given by a decoction of a mixture of onion and oak bark,
crocus, as well as a decoction of dried elderberries or blueberries.
Here you can also use onion peelings, but the colour will not be
bloody red, rather a mahogany shade of red;
- purple - you can get it thanks to the dark mallow decoction.
Experienced Lemko women can make wonderful, multi-coloured
Easter eggs, and this is a very difficult art, consisting in painting
and dyeing in new colour layers several times. It is a very tedious
job.
In my family home, the decorating instrument was a pin stuck in a
stick. Young shoots of wild lilac, or the one growing in the garden,
were great, because their twigs inside are filled with a white,
spongy core, in which it is very easy to stick a pin :)
The water in which the eggs were cooked could not just be
poured out. It was used to wash cow's udders so that the witch
could not deprive them of milk. In some villages, girls used it to
wash their feet. On the first day of Easter, the Lemkos would go
to the river or a stream in the morning to look for fish in the
water. The lucky one who saw a fish was supposed to be as fit as
a fiddle (or as we say here "as healthy as a fish") all year round.
After the Sunday service, young people used to spend their time
playing and singing as Easter is a time of joy.
Speaking of that, Easter Monday usually started especially
cheerfully, when, after night-time jokes, often quite crazy, the hosts
searched the entire village to get their buried farm equipment back.
Sometimes they found them on someone's roof. All the windows
were painted over so that the hosts would not know if it was night
or day.
This custom has also been preserved in the poviat of Gorlice.
Unfortunately, the jokes are not always funny and sometimes they
end with the police visit. Tradition can and should be cultivated but
in moderation and decency to prevent hijinks from turning into
ordinary acts of vandalism.
Of course, this day is also associated with the tradition of throwing
water. Each girl had to be drenched in water. It was easier and just
as often used to throw women directly into a pond or a river.
On the second day of Easter, the Lemkos used to visit the graves of
their relatives.
And to all our readers ...
Happy Easter May this day bring you blessings of love, joy, peace
and hope. May it linger in your heart forever.
Kasia and Kamil
church in Kotan, wiktor Bubniak Getty
photo: Kasia Skora
Author: Teodor Kuziak Pascha www.magurskiewyprawy.pl
73 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Opole Tourist Information
Rynek 23, phone: 0048 77 45 11
987
www.opole.pl
mit@mosir.opole.pl
Piast Tower. photo: Paweł Uchorczak
owing to a music festival that has been held since the
Opole,
and which has promoted hundreds of famous and
1960s,
songs, is best-known as the capital of Polish
much-loved
While the city is famed for its festival traditions, it has
song.
much more to offer. Opole, in fact, is one of the oldest
far
in Poland. Here, the wealth of 800 years of history is
cities
behind every corner of its historic tenement houses
hidden
in the narrow streets of the old town. In Opole, you can
and
take a break from the hustle and bustle of the city and
also
to the whispers and song of the surrounding primeval
listen
world. “The green lungs” of the city are the islands of
natural
and Pasieka situated on the Oder River. Whatever the
Bolko
the city entrances with its unique atmosphere,
season,
and hospitality of its inhabitants.
architecture
OPOLE THE CITY OF MUSIC
PREPARED IN COOPERATION WITH : PROMOTION DEPARTMENT OF THE OPOLE CITY HALL
www. facebook.com/MiastoOpole
www.facebook.com/OpoleOdkryj
www.opole.pl/en
PHOTOS AND TEXT
Wydział Promocji UM Opola
Wrocław
Opole
Katowice
Opole is one of the oldest cities in Poland, continuously inhabited since the 8th century and quickly becoming an important centre of
power, defense and trade. It is considered the historical capital of Upper Silesia, being much older than cities like Katowice, which grew
rapidly only during the industrial revolution of the 19th century. Opole is the capital city of Opole Voivodeship, in south west Poland. The
historical capital of Upper Silesia was badly damaged during the USSR invasion of Silesia at the end of WW II, but many fine houses in the
old town have been rebuilt. The city is known for the one of the most popular song festivals in Poland, which takes place each year in June.
LET'S GO FOR A WALK
STEP 1 Millennium Amphitheatre – National Centre of
Polish Song
Every tourist should at least once stand on the stage of the
legendary Opole Amphitheatre. One of the oldest European
festivals and the most recognized popular music events in
Poland – the National Festival of Polish Song – takes place
here. This unique stage has provided the start for the
career paths of dozens of artists and has created hundreds
of hits. This is where, to the rhythm of the most famous
Polish songs, summer begins with a stomp and has been
doing so every year for over half a century.
The administrator of the musical showpiece of Opole is the
National Centre of Polish Song (NCPP) – a spot where
concerts are held throughout the year. In the Chamber
Room, equipped with state-of-the-art technical means that
would do the largest concert halls and music clubs in the
world proud, concerts of the most important Polish bands
and performers are organised.
Thus, in the autumn-winter-spring period, the National
Centre of Polish Song turns into one of the most important
concert clubs in Poland.
STEP 2 Polish Song Museum
A museum with the greatest passion for singing in
Poland! It is modern and fully interactive, with its
seat located in the Amphitheatre. The museum
exhibition presents an outline of Polish song history
from the 1920s to the present day. Fans of the
famous Opole festivals will find here detailed
information about each edition of this event, as well
as many real props and costumes of celebrities that
can be tried on virtually. The song recording booths,
where everyone can record their favourite song and
send it by e-mail as a souvenir, are also a hit - and
for the more advanced visitors, a professional
recording studio has been opened. The Polish Song
Museum is also a cultural centre where meetings
with artists, concerts, museum lessons and
educational activities for children are held.
STEP 3 Opole Market Square
Intimate, surrounded by stylish, beautifully
renovated tenement houses, Opole Market Square is
one of the most charming places in the city. Despite
the devastating winds of history, it has retained its
medieval shape. The ambience is created by the
pastel shades of the façades and the subtle
decorations of the soaring gables of historic
buildings, which, among others, include numerous
boutiques, restaurants and cafés. The heart of this
place is the Italian-style Town Hall – almost a copy,
albeit slightly smaller, of the Florentine town hall –
the Vecchio Palace. The most characteristic element
of the Town Hall is the 65-metre tower, with the
Opole anthem played atop it every day at noon.
Presently, it is the seat of the city authorities.
75 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
STEP 4 Polish Song Walk of Fame
Located opposite the entrance to the Town Hall, it is one of the
biggest tourist attractions of the Capital of Polish Song and
one of the vivid musical accents in the city. From year to year,
more and more bronze stars with the names and autographs of
performers, composers and songwriters are added to it. Today
there are over sixty of them. Unveiling of the stars is one of
the most popular festival-related events among the media, as
well as the city residents. They gather enormous crowds and
give the opportunity to see and even chat with one’s musical
idols.
STEP 5 Opole Venice on the Młynówka
Stretching along the beautiful Młynówka Canal separating the
city centre from the quiet, residential Pasieki Island, it is one of
the most charming and romantic places in Opole. The old
tenement houses reflecting in the water surface look best at
night. The boulevards spanning along the canal are over a
kilometre long. They are made of stone paved paths, decorative
walls and rock gardens. Here, access to the water is easy and
comfortable. There are also numerous benches and a wooden
viewing platform. It is a dream route for cycling, jogging and
Nordic walking enthusiasts.
STEP 6 Grosz Bridge – “Little green bridge”
One of the most beautiful pedestrian bridges in Poland! It bears
the name ‘Grosz Bridge’ - dubbed so after the one-grosz toll
collected here ages ago.
The residents of Opole call it the ‘Green Bridge’ or the ‘Lovers’
Bridge’. This is undoubtedly one of the most characteristic,
well-known and favoured– both by locals and tourists – points
on the Opole city map. Grosz Bridge is a two-span, metal, Art
Nouveau pedestrian bridge suspended over the picturesque,
greenery-surrounded Młynówka canal – and is an ideal spot for
a romantic stroll.
At pre-set hours, the guests can also watch many species
being fed by their keepers. There are also many playgrounds,
picnic areas and food outlets amidst the lush greenery, The
ZOO in the Capital of Polish Song is a place where you can
spend many hours, without being bored for a single minute!
STEP 8 Piast Tower
Once used as a lookout to spot approaching enemies, today it
is one of the best viewpoints in Opole and its most famous
historic building. It is also among the oldest defensive
structures in Poland. Being 35 m high, and approximately 42 m
if we include the spire, its silhouette can be seen above the
Opole Amphitheatre during live TV coverages of the National
Festival of Polish Song. It is situated in the Opole district of
Ostrówek, where a stronghold in the state ruled by Mieszko I
was already located around the year of 990. The tower was
likely built at the end of the 13th or, as indicated by recent
studies, the mid-14th century. The insides of the tower used
to house a dungeon, kitchen, chamber and a guardhouse in
Medieval times. In recent years, the Piast Tower has been
thoroughly renovated and equipped with, for example,
interactive exhibitions on the history of Opole and the Castle,
among others.
STEP 9 Castle pond and music fountain
The charming pond is all that remains of the former moat
that once surrounded the Piast Castle and the castle park.
During the summer, the pond was, in former times, a place for
boat trips, and in the winter, it was transformed into a
skating rink – quite a professional one too, with artificial
lighting, a changing room and a water supply system. In
recent times, the city authorities of Opole have decided to
bring back these traditions and has been organising an ice
rink on the pond every winter - and skating here is truly
amazing – amidst the greenery, right next to the astonishing
Ice House from 1909.
STEP 7 Zoological Garden
One can set off on an exciting journey through all of the world’s
continents by visiting the ZOO in Opole! On the way you will
encounter dignified giraffes, cute red pandas, agile cougars,
elegant zebras, likeable anteaters and numerous species of
monkeys and prosimians, such as lemurs and gorillas. The Zoo
also houses a water pen for Californian Sea lions and an
enclosure for exotic gorillas! The Opole ZOO is home to a total
of more than 1.5 thousand animals. One can really feel what it
is like to be in a tropical jungle or a wild forest. Visitors, the
youngest ones in particular, can also drop in to a mini zoo and
pet the animals.
Opole Market Square, Photo. Paweł Szpala
76 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
This wooden building suffered almost no damage during World
War II, and once housed a youth hostel, a cafe and a restaurant.
Currently, the main summer-season attraction is a musicplaying
fountain, where one can hear the greatest of Poland’s
hit songs, first sung and launched into stardom right here in
Opole. The fountain nozzles spout colourful and illuminated
water columns to the rhythm of the music.
STEP 10 Tenement house
The tenement house in Opole, which constitutes a part of the
Museum of Opole Silesia, is a unique spot on the tourist map of
Poland. Initially, it was a tenement house for the Opole
bourgeoisie. Today, after its renovation, one can admire the
solutions introduced by its architect, who designed a two-story
tenement house with an attic and six small, two-room
apartments with an area of approx. 35 m2 each (two flats per
each floor) on a narrow plot. Besides the furniture, kitchen
utensils and knick-knacks, visitors can see various methods of
heating rooms in times gone by - using masonry heaters and
cast-iron heaters - as well as the sanitary equipment commonly
used at the time. The attic of the tenement house has been
changed to a small exhibition place with laundering as the main
theme. The space exhibits the entire process of laundering,
drying and mangling, and recalls the accessories widely used by
housewives from the end of the 19th century up until the
1970s.
STEP 11 Opole Rural Museum
The open-air museum in Bierkowice tells the history of the
18th-20th century Opole village. The vast, wooded and green
area stocks completely renovated corrals with conventionally
arranged wooden huts that everyone can enter. In addition to
the houses, the museum exhibits historic, wooden public
buildings and structures, among others, a church, several
chapels, a village school, a tavern, as well as a forge and two
beautiful windmills. The Opole open-air museum is a place
where you can take a break from the hustle and bustle of the
city, almost all year round. It is particularly picturesque in the
spring, when the wooden structures are surrounded with lush
greenery.
Groszowy Bridge, photo: Paweł Uchorczak
78 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Top photo: Opole Venice on the Młynówka Canal, photo: Paweł Szpala
Middle left: High Castle, photo: Przemysław Supernak | Middle right: Groszowy Bridge, phot: Jarosław Małkowski
Bottom left: Museum of the Opole Countryside, photo: Paweł Szpala | Bottom right: Giraffes at the Opole Zoo, photo: Jarosaław Małkowski
79 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Tysiąclecia Amphitheater
National Center of Polish Song
photo: Sławomir Mielnik
Opole Market Square with a view
of the Opole Cathedral
photo: Paweł Uchorczak
Opole Venice on the Młynówka Canal
photo: Paweł Szpala
Polish Song Museum
Muzeum Polskiej Piosenki
ul. Piastowska 14A, 45-082 Opole
muzeum@muzeumpiosneki
wwww.muzeumpiosenki.pl
POLISH SONG MUSEUM
ul. Piastowska 14A
A 15 minute walk from the
Railway Station
(Go along ul. Krakowska right to
the Market Square, then turn
towards the Open Air Theatre)
A 5 minute walk from the Market
Square
(Ask for directions to the Open
Air Theatre)
OPENING HOURS
Monday: CLOSED
Tuesday–Sunday: 10:00 AM–6:00 PM
A tour begins every hour, on the
hour. Last admission: 5:00 PM
Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl
The loudest museum in Poland! The legendary Millennium Amphitheatre houses state-ofthe-art
equipment and multimedia. Its exhibitions paint a picture of Polish music from the
1920s onward. Fans of the famous Opole festivals can find information there on every
edition of the event, as well as many original props and costumes used by performers, with
an option to try them on in the virtual dressing room as well. Song recording booths are
also very popular with visitors, enabling them to record favourite songs and receive the
recordings by email as a souvenir. More knowledgable visitors can also try out the
recording studio.
The Polish Song Museum is also a cultural centre hosting meet-the-artist sessions,
concerts, museum lessons and classes for children.
Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl photo: Paweł Szpala
PERMANENT EXHIBITION
Multimedia. Modern. Surprising. An attractive and
friendly way to see the history of Polish song since the
1920s until now. It is intended for visitors at any age
and with various knowledge of history of Polish song.
You will find there:
– 580 video clips
– 1,500 musical publications
– 2,000 photos
– 2,000 audios
– two music walls with touch screens
– isles of tablets
– recording booths
– a closet with costumes worn by stars
– virtual mirrors for dressing-ups – kids’ room
– musical exhibits
– drawing Opole full of Venice collection on from the museums Młynówka Canal
– multimedia library.
source:www.muzeumpiosenki.pl
87 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Cycling routes in Małopolska
Beskid Sądecki www.odkryjbeskid.pl
www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid
Euro Velo 11. part 1
text compilation: Jarek Tarański
www.facebook.com/velomalopolska/
photos: Konrad Rogoziński
cyclists Patryca Furca and Łukasz Świętach
In recent years, many kilometers of new bicycle infrastructure has
been built in the picturesque Poprad Valley in Beskid Sądecki. Below,
you will find a recipe for how to combine it into a one-day, pleasant
trip along the rivers that, cutting through this valley, have shaped
the landscape. This journey is sure to enchant you from behind the
handlebars of your bikes.
We classify this trip somewhere in the middle of the easy to medium
scale, mainly due to two fairly short bike climbs and one more, up
the stairs at the PL/SK border in Muszyna. One-third of the course
of this 60-kilometer trip runs along a separate bicycle path and the
remaining part along quiet roads in general traffic. It is suggested to
ride on the GPX trail, as a few fragments of the path have not been
marked yet.
What will await us in the Poprad valley, apart from the brilliant views
of the Beskids? Mostly new or in a very good condition asphalt roads
led with a slight slope just over the river, several new pedestrian and
bicycle footbridges, numerous springs with free mineral water, and
lots of tourist attractions located on the Polish-Slovak border. Just
add to that the network of new or revitalized hiking and mountain
bike trails- it makes quite a nice destination for at least a weekend
on two wheels. But, let's start with the simplest one-day trip.
Krakow
Warszawa
Beskid Sądecki
Rzeszów
www.bit.ly/velomaps
www.odkryjbeskid.pl
www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid
Since it is not a loop but a linear route, the easiest option will
be to take the bike on the train from Stary Sącz to Krynica.
This way you will not only make an uphill ride "up the river",
but for approx. 1.5 hours you will enjoy the journey along one
of the most picturesque railway lines in Poland. From Krynica,
you will be riding slightly downhill most of the way, along the
course of the river, although, as you can see on the graph with
the elevations (and what you will feel in your legs), you will
have to pedal a little uphill anyway.
photo: Konrad Rogoziński, A new bicycle bridge over the Poprad River in Milik, connecting two countries - Poland and Slovakia.
89 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
After leaving the train, go to the end of the platform, which
leads to the recently created VeloKrynica/AquaVelo route,
meandering along the Kryniczanka stream as far as to
Muszyna. However, before you turn and start your trip, stop
for a moment at the famous promenade of Krynica with
mineral water pump rooms and cafes.
The bicycle route between Krynica and Muszyna creates
practically a model connection of these spa towns,
guaranteeing a quiet ride along the river, without almost any
car traffic. Therefore, this section is suitable even for a ride
with small children. I will not list all the attractions that you
can visit in this section or its close vicinity, but the minimum
the so-called Zapopradzie - full of attractions and gardens
along the entire Zdrojowa Avenue. You can either soak in here
for a few hours or ride slowly with a short rest in the new part
with recreational ponds and birds' aviaries. A slight climb will
be waiting just behind the gardens, since this part of the EV11
goes along a concrete slope through forests that grow on the
banks of the river valley. It will take us to the Polish-Slovak
border where we urge you to respect the signs placed there
and get off your bike (in both directions). This short 20-30
meters temporary section is to be made smoother soon. Get
ready for a short walk along the wooden steps. After carefully
completing this section, we can ride a new gravel road to
on photo: Patryca Furca
plan is to stop in Muszyna at the regional cyclists' rest area
(MOR). There, in addition to a repair station with the possibility
of wireless mobile charging, there is also a healing water intake
"Anna", where you can refill your water bottles for free. Some
good advice: be sure to use water bottles or bidons, as filling a
Camelback with highly mineralized water may result in the
inability to wash it later. It is not the only spring that you will
meet on the trail of the trip, after all, the Poprad Valley stands
out (or maybe flows?) with mineral waters. It will be possible
to refill water later in Milek. You need to veer off the route
slightly, to the next regional MOR or right next to the route, in
Sulina or Legnava. The water has a specific taste, but I really
recommend giving it a try.
In Muszyna, after crossing two bridges, the route enters
photo: Konrad Rogoziński
the edge of the forest (approximately 0.5 km). If someone
wants to make this trip using a roadster, this is the only place
that we recommend a detour, choosing a ride among cars on
the DW971 road between Muszyna and Milek. I honestly warn
those who travel with children or beginners, as here you will
probably have a 1.5 km walk due to the elevation gain and
surface. However, to all the others, I recommend cycling this
way. After leaving the forest, we will have the freshly laid
asphalt rustling under the wheels on a completely new section
of the trail, leading as far as the buildings of Legnava. A one
time, the ride here was only on dirt roads and plowed fields,
now it has become elegant, according to the standards of the
international EuroVelo trail. This way, we will get to one of the
new pedestrian and bicycle bridges built this year.
90 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
We cross the river and national borders along the Legnava-
Milik footbridge and discover new bicycle paths on the Polish
side. They lead to Andrzejówka, from where we can return to
Mały Lipnik using another footbridge. A small note hereremember
about the basic regulations for cyclists in Slovakia
(including a mandatory helmet outside built-up areas), because
in another approximately 15 km we will cycle around this
country. The EV11/VeloNatura route uses quiet public roads in
this section, with really minimal traffic, as this is the "end of
the world" for Slovaks and only residents and cyclists use
these roads. Some of the picturesque sections charted right
There is also another pedestrian and bicycle bridge over the
Poprad, which connects this area with the EuroVelo11
route.From here, we will ride along quiet roads to Rytro.
Currently, we recommend riding through Rytro using the
sidewalks along the national road DK87, but soon the work on
the construction of a bicycle route on the section running
through the forests surrounding the Rytro's outer bailey will
be completed (it is expected to be put into use in spring
2021). In Życzanów, we return to the right bank and the
picturesque local roads along the Poprad itself. Caution! From
this point, it is possible to take a detour on one of the most
A new bicycle bridge over the Poprad River in Milik, connecting two countries - Poland and Slovakia.
on the river banks have recently received fresh asphalt
(Zavodie-Medzibrodie), but some of them, unfortunately, fall
into the last freshness category (Mały Lipnik- vicinity of the
footbridge in Żegiestów, approximately 2.5 km). For this
reason, we recommend roadster riders with super-thin tires to
be careful there. If you do not like mineral water from these
roadside springs, I recommend hydrating yourself with Kofola
in a nice cafe in Mały Lipnik or the one in Mniszek on the
Poprad, right on the border of Slovakia and Poland. This is
where we return to the Polish side and follow the old border
road to the center of Piwniczna. In Piwniczna, in addition to
visiting the market square, we also recommend a tour around
the so-called recreational center on Nakło, which includes
bicycle paths, pump track paths, and a bicycle center.
photo: Konrad Rogoziński
demanding climbs in the vicinity of Wola Krogulecka, from the
top of which there is a brilliant panorama from the
observation deck. We recommend it, but be warned that it is a
really steep ascent. Longer, but milder if that's what you need
is the one from the side of Barcice. From this town to the
footbridge in Stary Sącz, the route returns mostly to bicycle
paths.
What do we have besides this riverside route?
The abovementioned trail is the easiest option to cross the
entire Poprad Valley. However, I definitely recommend coming
for a longer bicycle reconnaissance since the construction of
the main riverside route (which in the future will be certified
as part of the EuroVelo11 international route), also jumpstarted
the development of a whole range of additional routes
91 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
in the Beskid Sądecki. Just remember that we are in the
mountains and each side-jump from the river will result in a
return climb, rewarded later with beautiful views from the peaks
and the pass of Beskid Sądecki. For gravelers and those whose
tourist bikes have slightly wider tires, I recommend the Mineral
Water Trail, which connects probably the most mineral water
springs per kilometre in Poland as well as numerous monuments
of wooden architecture. It connects with the proposed route in
Podjastrzębik, Muszyna, Milik, and Żegiestów. In the latter, I
recommend visiting the renovated spa and jumping to the
Slovak side using the bicycle footbridge that was built here a
few years ago.
For those who prefer wider tires and challenges, I recommend
the renewed network of mountain biking trails in Krynica-Zdrój
and the first of several announced flow/single-track routes in
Słotwiny-Arena center, where in addition to the lift for bikes,
you will also find a magnificent lookout tower to visit during the
break between the rides. For enthusiasts of fast downhill riding,
I also recommend a new bicycle park on the sledge-slope in
Muszyna. If one gets bored with this constant downhill ride, I
recommend MTB classics in this area, such as a trip to Bacówka,
Wierchomla, and Kotylniczy Wierch loop, which can also be
extended by a ride through Runek to Krynica or through Hala
Łabowska towards Piwniczna, which you can reach cycling down
the Aquavelo trail.
Speaking of AquaVelo, its easiest sections were used in the
trip, so you will come across its characteristic green markings.
The remaining parts of this trail in Poland are much more
demanding in terms of general condition and required
equipment. For example, the road from Piwniczna to Obidza is
ranked 10th place in the category of Polish climbs, and the
descent to Jaworki itself is still very off-road. The same
applies to its sections near Piwniczna and Rytro, which are
dedicated to mountain bikers. In addition, there is also a part
of this trail on the Slovak side, along with a whole range of
other bicycle trails and a temporary route (currently marked
only along public roads) of the EuroVelo11 route to Prešov. As
you can see, there is a lot to choose from.
A newly concreted section of EuroVelo 11 near Życzanów
The EuroVelo 11 route in the Beskid Sądecki runs along the Polish and Slovak side with very attractive
scenic areas along the Poprad River.
photo: Konrad Rogoziński
Encouraged? I can also reveal to you that the Poprad Valley is
the most beautiful in autumn colours. I also invite you to the
FB profile VeloMałopolska, where the latest reports from the
Małopolska routes are published, so you will find out which of
the "under construction" sections mentioned in this text have
already changed their status to "ready". You can find a map
with the progress of work on this and other cycling routes in
Małopolska at www.bit.ly/velomaps. In additional layers, you
will also find there recommended cycling routes and trips, as
well as the location of rest areas and parking lots.
92 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
photo: Konrad Rogoziński
93 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
On the route, several bicycle service places have been
opened for the use of bicycle tourists, which allow for rest
and minor bicycle repairs.
photo: Konrad Rogoziński
www.odkryjbeskid.pl
www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid
The EuroVelo route near the town of Andrzejówka
photo: Konrad Rogoziński
www.odkryjbeskid.pl
www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid
EuroVelo 11 route on the Slovak side near the town of
Zavodie.
photo: Konrad Rogoziński
www.odkryjbeskid.pl
www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid
Palaces of Poland
Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl
Ł Ó D Ź . P O Z N A Ń S K I P A L A C E .
source: www.muzeum-lodz.pl/en/
100 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
History of the Palace
text source: www.muzeum-lodz.pl/en/
The Palace – the culmination of the 19th-century empire of
Izrael Poznański, called ‘the cotton king’, was built as part of an
enormous factory and residential compound, typical of the
industrial architecture of the 19th century. Factory, lavish
residence, houses for workers,
school, hospital, and even a church – in times of glory it all
resembled a true ‘state within state’. In less than half a century,
Izrael Kalmanowicz Poznański changed from a lowly merchant,
who contributed a manufactory worth merely 500 roubles into
his marriage with Leonia Hertz, into a powerful factory owner
with 11 million in his account.
In 1877, Poznański bought a multi-storey, brick-built house
together with detached buildings: a ground-floor dyeing mill,
wooden outbuildings, a square and a garden at the intersection
of Ogrodowa and Stodolniana (today Zachodnia) Streets. The
compound was then extended and the palace itself was
modernised during three main renovations.
Despite the common opinion, it did not originate as a residential
building: its main intended use was its representative and
commercial function with a residential part, designed by the
contemporary city architect, Hilary Majewski, based on models
of the French Neo-Renaissance. The residence was surrounded
by a huge garden, with the total surface area of 4,255 m²,
which expanded from Ogrodowa Street to Drewnowska Street,
all the way up to the bed of the Łódka River. The part situated
in the closest vicinity of the palace was a strolling garden, the
farther one was functional: a vegetable garden with
greenhouses, conservatory, shooting range and pond.
Interestingly enough, until today we can admire in that garden
the greenery that remembers the family strolls of the
Poznańskis. The enormous diversity of the plants that grow
here – nearly 60 species of trees, shrubs and vines that appear
here – is a characteristic feature of the palace garden. Among
them, there is the yellow-leafed ‘Worley’ sycamore and an
absolute rarity in the form of two unique strains of maple.
Their peculiarity is testified by the fact that they do not have
Polish names and they cannot be found in Polish dendrology
companions. According to Professor Romuald Olaczek, they are
true botanical phenomena, freaks of nature of a kind,
differentiated from the typical representatives of their species
by the shape of their leaves.
The current form of the garden diverges considerably from the
original design, however, the following elements have remained
here up to the present day: part of the old tree stand,
architecture of the current drive, rotunda, and stairs leading
into alleys. Also the gas lanterns in the form of statues of
guardians holding torches have survived up till today.
The palace earned its current form as a result of a few
modifications introduced along with the changing financial
status of the Poznański family. The first redevelopment took
place in 1898, according to the design of Juliusz Jung and
Dawid Rosenthal. The decision about the next redevelopment
was taken in 1901, already after Izrael Poznański’s death (he
died in 1900, at the age of 67). The enterprise of extending and
decorating the interiors of the palace fell to his sons: Ignacy,
Maurycy, Karol and Herman. On their recommendation, the
project of extension that imparted its Neo-Baroque form to the
palace, was designed by Adolf Zelingson, Maurycy Poznański’s
schoolmate. The architectural supervision over the works was
exercised by Franciszek Chełmiński. The works were completed
in 1903. It was when the residence earned an architectural
form similar to the present one. The residence was supposed to
highlight the status and the financial possibilities of the
Poznański family. The building is dominated by domes, which
hide a representative Neo-Baroque dining room and a ball room.
The sculptures that crown the frieze of the facade are inspired
by the iconology of the Italian renaissance humanist Cesare
Ripa, who described the most important symbols of the era in
his book. The designers drew inspiration also from similar
residences of the financial bourgeoisie of western Europe.
101 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
The thirty-six two-metre figures on the roof of the palace
symbolise the power of the contemporary industry, trade,
wisdom, and success; in their hands, they are holding
attributes of hard work: cogwheels, bales of fabric, chains,
hammers, etc. Among them, we can find workers, spinners,
Hermes – the god of trade, protector of merchants, and
Athena – the goddess of wisdom and art, adept at weaving. In
the main body, which performed a representative function, on
the first floor, apart from the Large Dining Room and the
room on the first floor, there are numerous lounges, and on
the ground floor, in a pavilion directly connected with the
palace, there were office and stock-exchange rooms.
Downstairs the side wing, there were warehouses where ready
products were stored and on the first floor, residential
apartments, guest rooms as well as a winter garden covered
with glass domes. World War I and its economic consequences,
especially the closure of commercial outlets, as well as the
wrong policy of the company’s management and the
authorities of the reborn Polish State interrupted the period
of successes of the Poznański Family. Although it formally still
remained the property of Cotton Products Joint-Stock Society
of I. K. Poznański, the palace had new users and the family
was no longer interested in maintaining it.
In September 1939, the Palace was requisitioned by the German
Civil Administration: on 10 April 1940, the supreme authorities
and the main departments of the District of Łódź
(Regierungsbezirk Litzmannstadt) were transferred to the
building.
After the war, the Palace became the seat of the Voivodeship
Office once again, and in 1950 – the seat of the Praesidium of
the Voivodeship National Council. After the war, in late 1940s,
the side wing of the palace was expanded. At the end of the
1950s, a transversal wing, where today the Tax Office has its
seat, was built on. The newly erected part caused the original
surface area of the strolling garden to shrink.
Since 1975, part of the residence of the Poznański Family has
been the seat of the Museum of the City of Łódź (up to 2009
known as the Museum of the History of the City of Łódź). Since
the very beginning of its existence the institution has been
rebuilding, renovating, renewing and preserving the residence,
out of concern to re-establish the building to its former glory.
As a result of preservation works and taking over subsequent
historic rooms of the Palace, the rooms largely regained their
original appearance.
Since 2017, Izrael Poznański’s Palace has been undergoing a
thorough preservation renovation.
Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl
Since the times of the World War I, the residence was rebuilt multiple times and it often changed owners. In January 1927, the Voivode of Łódź, Władysław Jaszczołt,
obtained ministerial approval for transferring the Voivodeship Office from its previous seat in the former ‘Bristol’ Hotel at 11 Zawadzka Street (currently, Próchnika
Street). In the 1930s, the winter garden was eliminated and some of the interiors were rebuilt.
102 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl
103 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
art &
collection
The basic aim of the activity of the Museum of the City of Łódź, which stems both from the Act on
Museums and the Museum bylaw, is to collect, protect, make available and present goods that form
part of our natural and cultural heritage, both material and immaterial in
character, especially those connected with different stages of development and history of the City
of Łódź. Since its establishment on 30 October 1975 as the Museum of the History of Łódź, the
institution has been working towards that aim with consistency and with enormous enthusiasm. In
case of the Museum of the City of Łódź, the collection has been built from scratch, the Museum did
not take over (as it has happened in case of other local museums) collections of other institutions.
Since the time of its establishment, the Museum has been gathering objects, which both present
and document the city life and constitute products of the cultural and artistic milieu of Łódź.
Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl
Currently, the collection of the Museum of the City of Łódź includes over 62 thousand
exhibits and the number is growing successively. The collected objects, inscribed in the
museum inventory, are classified in a number of categories: iconographic, numismatic,
ethnographic, and archeologic collections as well as collections of art industry, painting,
sculpture, architecture and urban planning, music, literature, and separate collections
related to the history of the City, both the oldest as well as the current one. The Museum
of Sports and Tourism – Branch of the Museum of the City of Łódź has been gathering a
rich collection connected to the history of sport in Łódź.
In case of the Museum of the City of Łódź, an important criterion that influences the
acceptance of objects to the museum collection is the relation of a given object to our City,
its history, people who lived in Łódź, both the ‘ordinary’ citizens of Łódź, who did not stand
out among thousands of other citizens with their everyday life and work, as well as the
distinguished ones, who contributed to rendering Łódź famous, also on the international
arena, with their life, work and creative output. A very important part of the Museum’s
collection is formed by works and mementos of creators that either came from Łódź or
were active here, both those that lived in late 19th century and the contemporary ones.
Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl
In the Museum’s repertory there are also furniture sets, lamps and chandeliers, objects that
constituted elements of interior furnishings, including numerous charming products of the
art industry. The Museum owns interesting collections of paintings, posters and engravings
as well as sculptures. The Museum’s inventory includes multiple photographs that present
Łódź: the city’s architecture and its citizens, important events: cultural, social and political
ones. The Museum owns an interesting collection of 19th-century portrait photographs,
numerous tableaux, a collection of postcards and advertising vignettes. The historical
collection that documents the history of Łódź is very extensive and it includes documents,
ephemera, correspondence, posters, bills of exchange and old coins, numerous decorations
and medals. An important place in the collection of the Museum of the City of Łódź,
depicting the life of the citizens of old, is taken also by objects connected with the religious
life. Łódź at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries was a multicultural and
multidenominational city and that is why in the repertory of the Museum there are Judaica
as well as objects connected with the catholic, evangelical and Orthodox traditions. The
Museum of the City of Łódź has its seat in the most stately palace among all the palaces
that formerly belonged to the factory owners of Łódź: the Palace of Izrael Poznański. This
representative dwelling, which was extended in several stages, is one of the most precious
monuments of the historical heritage of Łódź; together with the surrounding factory and
housing compound it is an example of the industrial Łódź of late 19th and early 20th
century. Over the years, the Museum has put a lot of effort into restoring the former
glamour and splendour to the Palace and its interiors.
The carefully renovated palace interiors, equipped with
furniture, works of art and objects of everyday use
from the Museum’s collection, constitute a testimony
of the times of glory of the industrial empire of the
Poznański Family and bring us closer to the times and
way of life of typical Lodzermenschen. In the vast
spaces of the palace, exhibitions that form part of the
Pantheon of Great Citizens of Łódź were also
arranged. Among them there are studies of: Marek
Edelman, Alexandre Tansman, Julian Tuwim, Jan Karski
and Karl Dedecius. In the Museum there functions
Arthur Rubinstein’s Music Gallery, which is an
exposition where important and interesting objects
connected with Arthur Rubinstein, donated to the
Museum after the outstanding pianist’s death, were
made available to the public. In the studies of the
Great Citizens of Łódź we present objects of everyday
use, but also the ones related to the work they
performed, which formerly belonged to famous
citizens of Łódź, as well as numerous awards and
valuable decorations. In the collection of the Museum
of the City of Łódź connected with the Great Citizens
of Łódź there are, among other things, interesting
iconographic objects, posters, very first editions of
famous works, and letters. It is in the Museum of the
City of Łódź, in the Pantheon of Great Citizens of
Łódź, where you can admire, among other things, the
only Oscar statue in Łódź, which was awarded to
Arthur Rubinstein by the American Motion Picture
Academy, Julian Tuwim’s pen or the desk at which Karl
Dedecius worked.The Museum of Sports and Tourism,
Branch of the Museum of the City of Łódź, owns rich
collections as well, which comprise over 26 thousand
objects: awards and statues, old coins, archival
materials, iconographies and sports equipment
connected with the sport of Łódź, especially with
sportspeople who over the years have put a lot of
effort into its development. The collection includes
valuable relics of Maria Kwaśniewska, a citizen of Łódź
and the bronze medallist in javelin throw from the
Olympics in Berlin in 1936, mostly connected with Łódź
Sports Club, or of Jadwiga Wajs, an athlete born in
Pabianice near Łódź, the winner of the bronze medal in
discus throw from the Olympics in Los Angeles in 1932
and the silver medal from the Olympics in Berlin in
1936. For many years, the sport of Łódź has been also
associated with excellent track cyclists, including the
multigenerational Bek family, who for almost half a
century created the tradition of track cycling in the
city of textile workers. The Museum of Sports owns a
collection of awards and diplomas as well as a precious
bike intended precisely for the aforementioned
discipline of sport.
The Poznański Family Palace is a priceless monument
and an important spot on the cultural map of the city,
in which a rich programme of diverse educational and
artistic events is implemented. The Museum also
invites you to visit cyclically organised temporary
exhibitions.
105 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
PHOTO GALLERY
E A S T E R S T O R I E S
K A M I L A R O S I Ń S K A
www.facebook.com/ArtRosinska
www.kamilarosinska.com
107 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
- EASTER STORIES BY KAMILA ROSIŃSKA -
TRANSLATION: LIBRES, CONSULTATION: AMBER ACOSTA
"FOUNDLING"
All of this happened in a tiny village, right on the edge of a
large oak forest. The snow melted a long time ago and the
area was wrapped in the first warm sun rays. That day, a
spring breeze chased the clouds happily across the sky.
Little Hela jumped merrily out of her tiny crib. It will be a good day, the girl
thought. Hela looked forward to spring because she knew it was the time of
the birth of all Mother Nature's gifts.
Work in the girl's household was not the easiest one. The family was poor,
but together they made ends meet. Helenka's father, Paweł, was often away
from home and Hela and her five siblings were looked after by their ailing
mother, Józefa . She was a good woman, caring, protective, and loved her
children very much.
Easter holidays were coming. That day, Józefa sent little Hela to the
henhouse for eggs.
“Helenka, bring the most beautiful eggs you can find from the henhouse! It's
time to paint the eggs for the Easter basket,” she said to her daughter.
Hela eagerly put on her shoes, threw on her red coat, and ran to the
henhouse. In the henhouse there was a great commotion, tumult, and a huge
fuss. The old Rooster ruffled his plume and suddenly squeaked with all his
might so that the feather from his tail fell out.
“Cock-a-doodle-doo! Quiet in this henhouse!” he crowed to his flock.
The hens fell silent, sat on their roosts, and stared with interest at the
rooster.
“I found an egg in our henhouse that is not ours! We have to get rid of it, as
the egg brings shame to the whole coop,” the Rooster said, “It is large and
misshapen. It is blue and it cannot stay here any longer! It must immediately
be rolled out from the henhouse into the yard. Let the Falcon deal with it,”
the Rooster continued.
When Hela heard this, she ran into the henhouse, saying, “Rooster, leave that
egg, I'll take care of it! No one deserves to be given as a dish to the Falcon!”
The rooster thought for a moment and together with the hens, decided to
give the egg to little Hela. The girl returned happily home with the egg.
“What have you brought us here, Helenka ?! Where are the rest of the eggs?
And why is this egg so big?” Mother asked in surprise.
“I found this egg in the henhouse and I could not let the hens throw it out of
their perches. None of them wanted to sit the egg out and it will not be able
to do it on its own. Please mother, let's help it warm up, without us it will
die!” Hela pleaded in a sad voice.
The mother had a soft spot for the girl, who was her youngest child and she
agreed and let Hela hide the egg under the covers. It was already an evening
and the whole family gathered to sit down to dinner when suddenly they
heard some knocking.
Knock, knock, knock, knock
“Now who on earth is that?”, exclaimed the surprised host and checked if
there was anyone at the door of the cottage. There was no one there but
they could hear the knocking again.
Knock, knock, knock, knock
“Who is making fun of us?” the host said in a loud, irritated voice, rising
to the door again. But this time, still, there was no one behind the door.
It was a special night- so much so that it might have seemed to be magic.
The moon lined the sky with stars above Helenka's hut. One of them
shone so brightly that the light got through the window in the corner of
the room straight, onto the egg which was lying under the quilt. The egg
began to move, twitching and swinging until it hit the wooden floor and
broke.
Frightened, Helenka jumped out of her bed and, tiptoeing, she
approached the eggshells so as not to wake anyone up. To her greatest
surprise, she saw a long brown beak, wrapped in unevenly spaced grey
feathers, emerging from the center of the egg. The beaded, sparkling
eyes watched Helenka.
“Who are you?” the amazed girl asked, but received no answer.
“Are you a hen?” She repeated the question, but also this time, the
creature only glanced at Helen in surprise.
The dawn was already creeping outside the window and the first
nightingales began to give concerts when mother entered the room.
When she saw Helenka sleeping on the floor, huddled in the feathered
guest, she quickly guessed that it was not an ordinary egg. It was the egg
that must have fallen out of its nest on an old willow tree growing right
behind the henhouse which belonged to a stork family.
“Wake up, Helenka! It's time to get up and escort our guest to his family.
They are definitely looking for him and miss him very much.”
Helenka was sad that she would have to give up her new friend, but she
knew she had to. She placed the nestling in a wicker basket and they
went together with her mother to the old willow tree to check whether
mom was right.
Storks flew nervously over the nest and you could see them looking for
something on the ground. What joy they had when they saw that their
little fluffy son was sitting in little Helenka's basket! The embarrassed
Rooster watched everything from the henhouse. He understood that
being different is not always something wrong and that it is always
worth giving others a chance and a helping hand.
Hela cuddled up in the arms of her smiling mother and, although the tear
from her eye slowly fell down her cheek, she was happy. She felt that
just as the sun melts the ice, compassion and kindness reward the
sadness of parting. The girl understood that when you help, it doesn't
matter how much you possess, but how much you give to others and how
you share it. The Easter eggs? Well, probably next time mother will go to
collect the eggs in the henhouse herself.
108 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
PHOTO GALLERY
E A S T E R S T O R I E S
K A M I L A R O S I Ń S K A
www.facebook.com/ArtRosinska
www.kamilarosinska.com
109 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
- EASTER STORIES BY KAMILA ROSIŃSKA -
TRANSLATION: LIBRES, CONSULTATION: AMBER ACOSTA
"THE BRAVE BUNNY"
Easter was coming. Like every year, the old wicker basket
was getting ready to be decorated. Green blueberries
neatly bent their twigs, entwining its wicker handle.
The colourful Easter eggs were looking forward to being placed
comfortably, side by side, on a beautifully embroidered tray
cloth. Horseradish was cleaning its fair coat, while salt and
pepper were practicing flips by rolling in the salt shaker. The
stiff heel of bread wondered whether to sit on the right or left
of the sugar lamb this year. The chick was skating on a piece of
smoked bacon, squeaking so joyfully that the willow catkins grew
angry with envy.
“Are you all ready?”, the big iced Easter pound cake asked.
“Yes, we are,” the painted Easter egg replied.
“And where is the sugar lamb?” the horseradish asked.
“I'm here,” the lamb moaned softly.
“Lamb, it's time for us, soon our hostess will come to take us to
the food blessing. Don't dawdle, come down immediately!” the
shortcrust tart Mazurek said.
“I can't jump down! It is so high and my old hooves refuse to
obey,” the lamb answered sadly.
The poor fellow was standing on the dresser right next to the
table, his tiny sugar hooves weren't as fit as they used to be and
there were a few missing icing decorations on them, which
certainly made it difficult for him to jump.
“We have to help him, he can't do it without us! Who is
volunteering?!” the Horseradish said firmly.
“We, we, we are!” the inhabitants of the Easter basket shouted
eagerly.
“Make room!”the chocolate bunny instructed everyone, grabbing
the two longest willow twigs in its front paws.
“Lamb, stand back, I'll get to you right away,” the bunny
announced, preparing to jump.
The eggs reddened with sensation, the chick with horseradish
clutched its hands tightly, and the salt and pepper hid at the
bottom of the salt shaker, terrified.
Suddenly, everyone could hear,“Hopscotch!”
“This is it! He did it!” the Easter eggs squealed, overjoyed.
The proud bunny hugged the scared sugar lamb and promised to join
his friends in a moment. Then, the bunny made a slide from willow
branches that led straight to an old wicker basket.
He grabbed the frightened lamb by the sides and a moment later
they both found themselves in an old wicker basket, landing softly on
the heel of the bread.
“What an adventure!” the sugar lamb said, flushed, “Thank you, guys!
You are true friends.”
On that day, the lamb realized that the greatest happiness is to have
true friends because a real friend will help you, even if you do not ask
for it.
110 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
PHOTO GALLERY
E A S T E R S T O R I E S
K A M I L A R O S I Ń S K A
www.facebook.com/ArtRosinska
www.kamilarosinska.com
111 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
- EASTER STORIES BY KAMILA ROSIŃSKA -
- Polish Version -
"ZNAJDA"
Działo się to w maleńkiej wiosce tuż na skraju wielkiego
dębowego lasu. Śnieg już dawno stopniał i pierwsze ciepłe
promienie słońca otuliły okolicę. Tego dnia wiosenny
wietrzyk radośnie gonił chmurki po niebie.
Mała Hela wyskoczyła wesoło ze swojego maleńkiego łóżeczka.
–To będzie udany dzień – pomyślała dziewczynka.
Hela z wytęsknieniem wyczekiwała wiosny, ponieważ wiedziała, że jest
to czas narodzenia wszystkich darów matki natury.
W gospodarstwie dziewczynki praca, nie należała do najłatwiejszych.
Rodzina była biedna, ale wspólnymi siłami wiązali koniec z końcem.
Ojciec Helenki – Paweł, często przebywał poza domem, a Helą i jej
pięciorgiem rodzeństwa zajmowała się schorowana matka. Dobra z niej
była kobieta, troskliwa i opiekuńcza, bardzo kochała swoje dzieci.
Zbliżały się święta Wielkiej nocy. Tego dnia Józefa wysłała małą Helę
po jaja do kurnika.
– Helenko, przynieś z kurnika najładniejsze jajka, jakie zdołasz wybrać,
czas malować jaja do święconki – powiedziała do córki.
Hela ochoczo założyła trzewiczki, ubrała czerwony płaszczyk i
pobiegła do kurnika.
W kurniku wielkie poruszenie, rwetes i wrzawa. Stary Kogut nastroszył
pióropusz i jak nie piśnie z całych sił, aż mu pióro z ogona wypadło.
– Kukuryku, spokój w tym kurniku – zapiał do swojej gromady.
Kury przycichły, usiadły na grzędach i z zainteresowaniem wpatrywały
się w Koguta.
– W naszym kurniku, znalazłem nie nasze jajo i musimy się go pozbyć,
jajo przynosi wstyd całemu kurnikowi – powiedział Kogut.
– Jest wielkie i niekształtne, sine i nie może dłużej tu zostać,
natychmiast trzeba je wyturlać z kurnika na podwórze, niech Sokół się
z nim rozprawi – kontynuował Kogut.
Usłyszawszy to Hela, wbiegła do kurnika mówiąc.
– Kogucie, zostaw to jajo, ja się nim zaopiekuję, nikt nie zasłużył by go
Sokołowi na pożarcie dawać.
Kogut pomyślał chwilę i wraz z kurami wydał jajo małej Heli.
Uradowana dziewczynka wróciła z jajem do domu.
– A cóż tam przyniosłaś Helenko?! Gdzie reszta jajek i dlaczego to Jajo
jest takie duże? –zapytała zdziwiona mama.
– Znalazłam to jajo w kurniku i nie mogłam pozwolić by kury wyrzuciły
je ze swoich grzędę, żadna z nich nie chciała jaja wysiedzieć a przecież
samo sobie nie poradzi, proszę mamo pomóżmy mu się ogrzać, bez nas
ono zginie – smutnym głosikiem prosiła Hela, a że matka miała słabość
do dziecka, bo najmłodsza z dzieci była dziewczynką, zgodziła się i
pozwoliła Heli jajo pod kołdrę schować.
Nastał wieczór i cała rodzina zasiadała już do kolacji kiedy nagle
rozległo sie stukanie:
Stuk, stuk, stuk, puk…
– A kogo tam diabli niosą? – zdziwił się gospodarz i sprawdził czy kogo
przed drzwiami chaty nie ma. Ale nikogo nie było, lecz znów zdało się
słyszeć:
Stuk, stuk, puk,puk…
– Któż to żartować sobie z nas raczy – głośnym, podenerwowanym
głosem powiedział gospodarz ponownie wstając do drzwi.
Ale za drzwiami i tym razem nikogo nie było.
Noc to była wyjątkowa, zdawać by się mogło, że magiczna. Księżyc
wyścielił gwiazdami niebo, nad chatą Helenki, jedna z nich tak jasno
świeciła, że przez okienko w rogu pokoiku światło wpadła prosto na
znajdujące się pod puchową pierzynką jajo.
Ale co to? Jajo zaczęło się ruszać, wiercić się i bujać aż spadło na
drewnianą podłogę i pękło.
Wystraszona Helenka wyskoczyła ze swojego łóżeczka i cichutko na
paluszka by nie zbudzić nikogo zbliżyła się do skorupek. Jakież
ogromne było jej zdziwienie, gdy z środka jaja wyłonił się długi
brunatny dziób otulony szarymi nierówno rozmieszczonymi piórkami.
Błyszczące jak paciorki oczka przyglądały się Helence.
– Ktoś TY? – Zapytała zdziwiona dziewczynka, ale nie otrzymała
odpowiedzi.
– Czy jesteś kurą? – Ponowiła pytanie, ale i tym razem zdziwiony ktoś
tylko przyglądał się Helence.
Świt już skradał się za oknem i pierwsze słowiki zaczynały
koncertować, gdy do izby weszła mama, gdy zobaczyła śpiącą na
podłodze wtuloną w pierzastego gościa Hele, szybko się domyśliła, że
to nie było zwyczajne jajo, a jajo które musiało wypaść z gniazda na
starej wierzbie rosnącej tuz za kurnikiem i należało do bocianej rodziny.
– Obudź się Helenko, czas wstawać i odprowadzić naszego gościa do
swojej rodziny, na pewno już go szukają i bardzo za nim tęsknią.
Helenka była smutna, że będzie musiała oddać swojego nowego
przyjaciela ale wiedziała, że tak trzeba. W wiklinowy koszu usadowiła
ptaszynę i wspólnie z mamą udały się pod starą wierzbę, sprawdzić czy
mama miała rację.
Bociany nerwowo latały nad gniazdem i można było zauważyć jak
wypatrują czegoś na ziemi. Jakaż była ich radość, gdy zobaczyły, że w
koszu małej Helenki siedzi ich malutki puchaty synek. Wszystko z
kurnika obserwował zawstydzony Kogut, który zrozumiał, że nie
zawsze inność jest czymś złym i że warto dać komuś szanse i
pomagać.
Hela wtuliła się w ramiona uśmiechniętej mamy i mimo, że łezka w jej
oku powolutku spływała na policzek, to była szczęśliwa, bo tak jak
słońce topi lód, tak dobro i pomoc drugiemu wynagrodzi smutek
rozstania. Dziewczynka zrozumiała, że gdy pomagasz, nie liczy się to
ile posiadasz, ale ile dajesz i jak się tym dzielisz. A pisanki… no cóż
chyba tym razem mama już sama pójdzie pozbierać jajka w kurniku.
- EASTER STORIES BY KAMILA ROSIŃSKA -
- Polish Version -
"DZIELNY ZAJĄC"
Zbliżały się Święta Wielkanocy. Wiklinowy, stary koszyk jak
co roku, szykował się do strojenia. Zielone borówki,
zgrabnie wyginały swoje gałązki, oplatając jego wiklinową
rączkę.
Kolorowe pisanki już nie mogły się doczekać, kiedy wygodnie usadowią
się, jedna przy drugiej, na pięknej haftowanej serwecie.
Chrzan radośnie czyścił swój jasny kubraczek, a sól z pieprzem ćwiczyli
koziołki, turlając się w solniczce. Sztywna piętka od chleba zastanawiała
się, czy w tym roku usiąść z prawej, czy lewej strony baranka
cukrowego?! Kurczątko ślizgało się jak na łyżwach po kawałku
wędzonego boczku, przy tym, tak radośnie popiskiwało, że wierzbowe
bazie nastroszyły się z zazdrości.
– Czy wszyscy gotowi? Zapytała wielka lukrowa baba wielkanocna.
– Jesteśmy wszyscy – odpowiedziała malowana pisanka.
– A gdzie jest baranek cukrowy – zapytał chrzan.
– Jestem tutaj – zabeczał cichutko baranek.
– Baranku, czas na nas, niebawem przyjdzie po nas gospodyni i zabierze
nas do święcenia. Szkoda czasu, schodź natychmiast! – powiedział
mazurek.
– Kiedy ja nie mogę zeskoczyć. Jest tak wysoko, a moje stare kopytka
odmawiają posłuszeństwa – powiedział smutnym głosem baranek.
Biedaczysko stał na komodzie tuż obok stołu, jego malutkie cukrowe
kopytka nie były już tak sprawne jak kiedyś, widać było przy nich kilka
brakujących lukrowych zdobień, co z całą pewnością utrudniało mu
podskoki.
– Musimy mu pomóc, bez nas sobie nie poradzi. Kto na ochotnika?! –
stwierdził stanowczo chrzan.
– My, my, my – przekrzykiwali się mieszkańcy wielkanocnego koszyczka.
– Zróbcie miejsce - powiedział czekoladowy zając, chwytając w
przednie łapki, dwie najdłuższe wierzbowe gałązki.
– Baranku, odsuń się, zaraz u Ciebie będę – zawołał zając,
przygotowując się do skoku.
Pisanki, aż poczerwieniały z wrażenia, kurczątko z chrzanem trzymali
się kurczowo za rączki, a sól z pieprzem schowały się ze strachu na
samo dno solniczki.
Nagle zdało się słyszeć:
– Hooooop, siuuuup!
– Udało się! – piszczały rozradowane Pisanki.
Dumny zając, przytulił wystraszonego cukrowego baranka i obiecał, że
już za chwilkę dołączy do przyjaciół. Z gałązek wierzbowych zajączek
zrobił zjeżdżalnię, która prowadziła prosto do wiklinowego starego
koszyka.
Chwycił zlęknionego baranka pod boczki i chwilkę później znaleźli się
obaj w starym wiklinowym koszu, lądując miękko na piętce od chleba.
– Ależ to była przygoda – powiedział zarumieniony baranek cukrowy.
Dziękuję Wam. Jesteście prawdziwymi przyjaciółmi.
Tego dnia baranek zrozumiał, że największym szczęściem, jakie może
nas spotkać to posiadanie prawdziwych przyjaciół, bo przyjaciel
pomoże Ci, nawet jeśli o tę pomoc nie prosisz.
113 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
PHOTO GALLERY
E A S T E R S T O R I E S
K A M I L A R O S I Ń S K A
www.facebook.com/ArtRosinska
www.kamilarosinska.com
PHOTO GALLERY
E A S T E R S T O R I E S
K A M I L A R O S I Ń S K A
www.facebook.com/ArtRosinska
www.kamilarosinska.com
115 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
PHOTO GALLERY
E A S T E R S T O R I E S
K A M I L A R O S I Ń S K A
www.facebook.com/ArtRosinska
www.kamilarosinska.com
PHOTO GALLERY
E A S T E R S T O R I E S
K A M I L A R O S I Ń S K A
www.facebook.com/ArtRosinska
www.kamilarosinska.com
117 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
www.facebook.com/ArtRosinska
www.kamilarosinska.com
TLP: To begin with, I would like to ask about a few more general
points: When did your adventure with creating scratched Easter
eggs start? I guess it is not your profession, but rather a passion
that developed gradually? Or maybe it has already become your
real profession?
LK: The origins date back to my childhood when I scratched a
painted egg with a needle for the first time. I have been making
Easter eggs every year since then. At first, the patterns were
not impressive, lopsided, a lot of eggs cracked. With time,
however, I developed a technique that for decades has allowed
me to create very intricate patterns. Since I scratched the eggs
with a broken needle from the sewing machine, the process of
decorating them took a very long time. Sometimes I spent a few
days on one Easter egg, depending on my free time. Hence, the
production was only for my family and friends. Some time ago,
with access to various tools, I started scratching and cutting
patterns using a mini grinder or even a dental machine. Then, the
process of their creation greatly accelerated so I started to
share my works with a wider audience at fairs or on the Internet.
It is still a seasonal passion that begins a few months before
Easter.
TLP: Your works are not typical for the subject, are they? The
most common form of decorating eggs in Poland is painting
them - while you "scratch the patterns on them". It is probably
not the easiest art material? I have seen somewhere the
statement that "the eggshell is as delicate as human life"... What
is the 'base' of your works? Are there only chicken eggs or also
exotic specimens?
LK: I started with boiled chicken eggs painted with onion
peelings or other "home" dyes. The shell of a hen's egg is
delicate and at the very end of the work, after a few hours of
scratching, it sometimes happened that I accidentally damaged
the egg. Of course, you could always eat I regretted the time
spent and the created patterns. In the 90s I tried an ostrich egg
due to the establishment of an ostrich farm in a neighbouring
town. Unfortunately, the egg is terribly difficult to scratch but I
figured out it could be "sculpted" with a grinder and dental burs.
Currently, I do not only scratch painted eggs, but I also create
openwork beauties from quail, goose and ostrich eggs - less
often using hens' due to their "fragility". An interesting fact is
the durability of chicken eggs. I have eggs at home that are over
20 years old; inside you can hear the dried yolk bumping against
the walls, but the egg does not smell bad.
TLP: Can you say that some decorative themes dominate your
works? What does the process of choosing a pattern look like?
Are there any traditional elements, including cultural ones, or is it
a more or less random decorative element? Do you have any
inspirations that you like to use the most?
"On scratching eggs",
i.e. one of the arts of
creating Easter
masterpieces - an
interview with Leszek
Kłysewicz.
LK: In all these years of scratching, I haven't scratched
two identical eggs. The patterns are the product of my
imagination, telling me what to create when I take an egg
in my hands. It is a bit different with an ostrich egg,
which due to its size requires a pencil sketch or at least
some outline of symmetrical division of an egg.
Sometimes I use the inspiration of other artists, but
these are never complete copies, but only an inspiration
with some design elements. I can say with full
responsibility that the designs I create are somehow my
trademark and are unique.
TLP: Is this technique of creating Easter eggs typical of
the Eastern Roztocze region, or is it one of the elements
of egg decoration more widely present in Poland and
maybe in the world?
LK: I cannot say here about any regionalization of my
patterns or even the technique. I was born and grew up
in Słupsk, I moved to the Eastern Roztocze, to Horyniec-
Zdrój, only at the beginning of the 1980s, when my
craftsman's skills were already well developed. My
patterns are rather universal or even unique. I remember
the patterns scratched on coloured eggs from my youth,
partly taken from folk patterns that I transferred to
Easter eggs. Openwork products are more universal and
do not always refer to folk roots. I also often make basreliefs
on thick ostrich eggs.
photos: Krystian Kłysewicz
121 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
I also use eggs to create caskets or even bedside lamps. All
thanks to the use of more advanced "drilling" techniques. I
return with sentiment to classic eggs scratched with a needle.
Unfortunately, due to my age, nowadays I choose simpler
methods of making Easter eggs.
TLP: Horyniec-Zdrój, where you live, and more broadly, the
Eastern Roztocze was once a multicultural area. I am thinking
mainly of the coexistence of the spirituality of the Eastern
Church and the so-called Western (Catholic). Do various
customs that interact and interpenetrate continue to exist in
these areas? I am asking, of course, mainly in the context of
Easter, including the context of decorative traditions?
LK: Unfortunately, history treated the Eastern Roztocze quite
brutally. From a place where multiculturalism was a specific
asset of the area, during the war turmoil and the post-war
times, difficult for the region, it changed to a place where this
multiculturalism disappeared, became a taboo subject, was
forcibly forgotten, and returns only in the form of historical
studies, as even most of its witnesses have already died. Have
mixed cultures influenced the way Easter is celebrated in this
region? Certainly, my childhood memories of Easter from
Słupsk are entirely different. It was here that I first met, for
example, a sour rye soup. Unfortunately, only specialists in
cultural studies can comment on this subject precisely because
the mix of elements makes it difficult to indicate which culture
they come from. Generally, globalization makes the regional
differences in Poland less and less visible. Certainly, some
traditions have been forgotten, and some have become
assimilated as generally Polish by erasing the memory of
difficult periods and the uncomfortable history of the region.
LTP: Is it possible to see or buy your works anywhere?
LK: I present my works on my Facebook profile: "Drapacz Jaj -
Leszek Kłysewicz", where you can see the products and
contact me regarding the purchase of a ready pattern or
ordering something specific. People visiting Horyniec-Zdrój can
also visit me and watch my products live.
photos: Krystian Kłysewicz & Marcin Kłysewicz
art &
designs
photos: Krystian Kłysewicz & Marcin Kłysewicz
VISIT
Drapacz Jaj - Leszek Kłysewicz rękodzieło
www.facebook.com/drapaczajaj
123 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
A R C H I V E S
K R A K Ó W - R Ę K A W K A &
E M A U S
Title: Rękawka - church of st.
Benedict, Lasota Hill
Author/Supplier:
Henryk Hermanowicz
Creation Time: 50/60'S. XX c.
Creation Place: Kraków
Material:
Photographic film, Black and
white photography,
Dimensions: 3,6 x 2,4 cm
Note/Description:
Rękawka - Indulgence
celebrated in Krzemionki on
Tuesday after Easter
W W W . C T . M H K . P L
124 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Rekawka is a folk festival celebrated on the first Tuesday after Easter Sunday in Krakow, on the Krak
Mound (also known as Krakus Mound). It is an ancient tumulus, not far from one of the oldest churches in
Krakow – St. Benedict’s church.
Rekawka’'s beginnings go back to the ancient Slavic springtime
celebrations, called Dziady. For ancient Slavs, spring was a time
of burning sacred fires to celebrate the dead, and of planting
sacred groves. They also had the custom of leaving food for
the dead. The Krak Mound might have been one of such places
where they held their celebrations.
These ancient Slavic traditions evolved over time, and customs
changed. In the 19th century, it was customary for rich citizens
of Krakow to throw coins, apples, sweets and boiled eggs down
the grassy slope of the Krak Mound to be picked up by poor
local people. Some historians see it as a continuation of the
Slavic traditions of leaving food for the dead.
Nowadays, Rekawka has a popular, folk character. If the
weather is warm and sunny, it can be an occasion for a
pleasant family outing. There are stalls selling sweets and toys,
merry-go-rounds, and street musicians. More recently, the
festival has been featuring medieval knights fighting each
other in mock duels and medieval craftsmen at work. There is
also an opportunity to taste traditional dishes such as kołacze.
PHOTOS:
Emaus - stalls, Author/Supplier: Henryk Hermanowicz, Creation Time: 70's XX c
the past
About Rękawka
Photos & Digitalisation: www.ct.mhk.pl, public domain
Rękawka is a Polish Easter custom celebrated in Krakow on the
Tuesday after Easter, originally referring to the Slavic tradition
of the spring version of Dziady. The tradition of Rękawka
included, among others, throwing and rolling eggs, a symbol of
new life.
The name of the custom comes from the name of the mound,
which, on an engraving by Matthäus Merian and Vischer de
Jonge, from around 1600, was called Tumulus dictus Rękawka
(the Mound called Rękawka). In the register containing the list
of expenses related to the coronation of Henry III of France,
there is an entry regarding the illumination of the mound on
that occasion: Peasants who burned a fire on Rękawka on Te
Deum laud. after the coronation and who carried wood there -
21 groschen each.
It is related to the legend of Krakus Mound, built by the people
after the king's death. According to tradition, the soil for the
mound was carried in sleeves (in Polish: “rękawy”) and hence
the name "Rękawka". One of the epigrams by Jan Kochanowski
indicates a similar origin of the word "rękawka" as in it means a
tomb strewn with hands (in Polish: "rękami"). Rękawka with its
roots undoubtedly refers to the pagan rituals associated with
the Spring Forefathers (Dziady) which fall on the spring
solstice. The very etymology of the word, contrary to the folk
tradition, has nothing to do with carrying the soil, although it
alludes to the cult of the dead. In 1592, a case concerning the
borders of Wola took place before the Land Court of Kraków. It
was about the violent scattering of seventeen mounds that
separated the area of the village of Wola Świętoduska from the
area of the town of Kazimierz, the village of Janowa Wola, and
the sudden settlement of the grove and area of the village of
Wola ... that is six leagues, at the fields below Lasotyna
mountain and besides the route, running from Kazimierz to
Wieliczka. The document contains a detailed description of the
boundaries of Wola, adjacent to the meadows of the city of
Kazimierz, with one of them lying at the Wieliczka main route
(now Wielicka street. At the time of the separateness of
Kazimierz, Krakowska street was also called Wielicka as it led to
Wieliczka, then more or less along the course delineated along
the present Limanowskiego street to today's Wielicka), on the
west side, it was called Raczka. Primary reverence for the
deceased included throwing food and coins down the hill It is
possible that it was based on the possibly still pre-Slavic mound
and a combination of threads from the legend of Krakus with
Slavic beliefs. The rite may also echo the ancient Celtic
traditions associated with the cult of the god of death,
Smertius.
On the slope of the mound, the mighty of the city rolled eggs,
cobbler pancakes, bagels, rolls, apples and gingerbread directly
into the hands of boys and crowds. Back in 1939, the biggest
attraction was throwing bread, apples, Easter eggs, toys and
balloons from the hill.
It is assumed that the foundation of the church of St.
Benedict and the establishment of the patron day on March 21
(the first day of spring), was the reaction of the Catholic
Church to the vivid Slavic religious practices in Krzemionki.
Historically, at least from the 17th century, as evidenced by
sources, during the indulgence (on Tuesday, which was also a
public holiday), wealthy Cracovians dropped fruit, sweets and
money from the top of the mound (coins from various
historical periods were found in the surface layer), while the
poor, students and children collected them at the foothill. Until
the mid-nineteenth century, Rękawka was held at Krakus
Mound itself, but after digging the hill for the construction of
a railway line, it moved to St. Benedict Mount in the northern
part of Lasota Hill and was combined with an indulgence and
folk party near the church of St. Benedict in Krzemionki.
During the Austrian partition, in 1897, the celebrations were
banned. Even the access to the mound was closed. The
authorities planned to build an artillery fort in this area and
also wanted to eliminate the tumult and signs of aggression
among those gathered at the mound.
126 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
PHOTOS:
Previous page: Emaus - stalls, Author/Supplier: Henryk Hermanowicz, Creation Time: 70's XX c.
Top left: Rękawka - church of st. Benedict, Lasota Hill
Top right: Emaus - stalls, Author/Supplier: Henryk Hermanowicz, Creation Time: 70's XX c
Bottom right: Rękawka - indulgence celebrated in Krzemionki on Tuesday after Easter,
Author/Supplier: Henryk Hermanowicz, Creation Time: 50/60 s XX c.
Easter kitchen Sękacz
Sękacz
Sękacz – a multi-egg cake with 'icicles' (or branches, as
it is sometimes called a "tree-cake") - is known mainly
in the Easter tradition in the Suwałki region, but also
in many other regions of Poland. However, most of
this cake is served at the tables of almost every home
on the Polish-Lithuanian border at Easter.
Legends say that the sękacz was first mentioned in the
15th century. It was supposed to be eaten by Lithuanian
warriors, going to the Battle of Grunwald. According to
other stories, the career of Polish sękacz began in the
Suwałki region, in Berżniki, where it was baked for the
first time in honour of Queen Bona. The Queen,
delighted with the amber and golden cake, decided that
sękacz would be the decoration of the reception table
at the wedding of her son Zygmunt August. The
wedding gathered in Krakow many crowned heads and,
according to the legends, they all fell in love with the
woodland specialty. Another story says that the Poles
learned about sękacz and the method of its production
from the Yotvingian people, who lived in the northern
regions of today's Poland in the Middle Ages.
The truth is that there is no consensus on the origin of
this baking, and no wonder everyone wants to attribute
it to themselves. It seems that the cake was created in
the Polish Eastern Borderlands and from there it went
to Germany (Germans say that Sękacz comes from
Berlin), to Hungary or Romania, where the tree cake is
still baked.
You need 30 to 50 eggs to bake the cake. It is baked on a
special cylinder above the hearth. During baking, the
dough cylinder rotates and in this way characteristic
knags - icicles appear on it. The average sękacz is approx.
50-60 cm high. A lot of tree cakes is made during Easter
in the vicinity of Sejny and Puńsk, a town inhabited by
Polish Lithuanians. Many orders are received by
housewives in villages, who still make them, but Suwałki
bakeries bake the most of them. Sękacz, also known as
"dziad", "spit baba" or a "round pie", looks like a cake that
is not so easy to prepare. However, this is not the case -
both the dough and the method of baking are simple -
however, as mentioned above, they require the use of a
special oven that imitates the traditional method of
baking cakes over a fire. Anyway, you will need a lot of
patience. The whole process of baking the sękacz can
take up to three hours! For a large size sękacz you need
to use a kilogram of butter, sugar and flour, and 40 eggs
(or - according to the traditional recipe - 50 yolks).
Sometimes cream is also added. The dough can also be
enriched with additives such as ground cardamom, vanilla,
orange peel or rum. he ingredients create a fairly dense
batter, which is poured over a wooden shaft filled with a
spit, and this is placed over the fire or in a special oven.
The roller is constantly turning, thanks to which the dough
covers it evenly, and its excess flows down, creating
characteristic projections similar to knots in a tree.
Subsequent seared layers of sękacz, after cutting the
dough, look like rings in a tree trunk.
Ingredients
(version for a home-baked cake)
I250 grams of butter
a cup (220 g) of sugar
3/4 cup (150 g) of coarse ground flour
1/2 cup (110 g) of potato starch
6 eggs
5 grams of ground almonds
1 spoon of rum
1/2 vanilla pod
grease for the baking pan
How to make it
The tree cake does not contain any complicated ingredients. The most important
ingredients are eggs, wheat flour, cream, butter and sugar, which are mixed to make a
sponge and butter dough. It is worth using the addition of low-gluten flour, e.g. potato
starch - then the dough has a more delicate structure. In the past, quince juice was
added to it as well, giving it a characteristic flavour. Today, lemon is often used instead
of it, and sometimes even vanilla sugar. Cream the butter and sugar until it is light and
smooth. While constantly mixing, gradually add one yolk at a time, pour in rum, almonds,
ground vanilla and both types of flour.
Beat the stiff foam from the cooled egg whites and gently mix with the egg mass.
Grease the cake tin. Spread 2 tablespoons of dough on the bottom, bake for 5 minutes
at 200°C. When the dough is lightly browned, remove from the oven, spread another two
tablespoons of the dough on the baked dough and put the form back in the oven for
another 5 minutes. Repeat the steps until the dough is used up. (It is important to
create as many thin layers as possible). After baking, let the dough cool, remove it from
the baking pan and sprinkle generously with powdered sugar or pour over with the
frosting.
129 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Sękacz, as the pride of the Suwałki Region, has its festival here. It takes place on August
15 each year in Żytkiejmy, on the border of Mazury Garbate and Suwałki Region.
SĘKACZ IS A BAKED PRODUCT CHARACTERISED
BY EXCEPTIONAL DURABILITY. EVEN AFTER 10
WEEKS IT IS STILL EDIBLE AND, WHAT'S MORE, IT
STILL TASTES GREAT!
At home, without a special oven, it is also possible to prepare
your own version of Sękacz. Of course, the proportions change.
The ready batter is poured in a thin layer at the bottom of the
baking tray, baked for a few minutes in the oven, then covered
with another portion of the dough and baked again. Repeat the
action until you run out of dough.
130 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Easter kitchen Sękacz
131 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
photo: Magdalena Tomaszewska-Bolałek
visual guide
where to find wolfs and
bisons
in a natural habitat
guide by:
lovePoland
source: www.gios.gov.pl
www.lasy.gov.pl
Wolves
Centuries ago, groups of wolves, or packs, roamed Poland in
great numbers. Over the years, they were held in disrepute and
exterminated as a threat to humans and livestock. The wolf
population in Poland got so depleted that they were on the
verge of extinction. Today, they are under strict protection and
a number of measures are taken to improve their image. The
species that occurs in Poland and Europe is the grey wolf. It
inhabits forest and mountain areas, vast plains and wetlands.
Wolves live in packs of up to 20 individuals, although they are
usually smaller (in Poland their families often consist of approx.
6-8 animals). The pack is a bit like a human family - there are
parents, their children, until a certain age, and sometimes other
wolves from the previous litters. There is a strictly defined
hierarchy in the pack, with the alpha pair at the top, which is
the only one that can reproduce. They need a lot of space, one
or two packs occupy an area of 100 to 300 km2.
In 2019, official data provided by the Chief Inspectorate for
Environmental Protection already mentioned the number of
around 2,000 individuals (according to less official data, the
population of wolves in Poland has reached approximately 3.5
thousand animals). Despite the significant increase, the number
is low while compared to the size of the population of other
wild animals. Before the wolf was put under protection, its
compact habitats were limited to the Carpathians and vast
forests in the eastern and north-eastern parts of the country.
Wolves rarely appeared in the forests of western and central
Poland. The situation started to change gradually after 1998.
Thanks to their incredible ability to long-distance, several
hundred- kilometre roams, wolves gradually returned to their
former refuges in central and western Poland, where they
successfully re-colonized all larger forest complexes on their
own. Single animals, especially wolf cubs leaving their family
groups in search of partners and new territories, may also
periodically appear outside vast forests, also in the areas of
farmland and woodland mosaics.
Assigning wolves to administrative units, a common practice in
acquiring statistical data, contributes to misconceptions about
their territorial range.
It also results from the fact that wolves often inhabit forest
complexes divided between two or even three provinces.
The largest wolf refuges are located in the following
voivodeships:
Subcarpathian,
Lublin,
Podlaskie,
Warmian-Masurian,
and Lesser Poland.
Few wolves live in the Silesia and West-Pomeranian
Voivodeship, around Piła and in the Noteć Forest in Greater
Poland as well as in Opole Voivodship, in the Kędzierzyn
Forest Inspectorate. In the Lubuskie Voivodeship, they visit
the Karwin Forest Inspectorate and its vicinity, in the
Masovian Voivodeship, they are seen in the Myszyniec
Forest Inspectorate in the Kurpiowska Forest, and in the
Pomeranian Voivodeship, they occasionally visit the western
part of the region and quite sporadically drop in the Kwidzyn
Forest Inspectorate. The wolves, seen in the north of the
Kuyavian-Pomeranian Voivodeship, may theoretically
migrate to the west. They are not present in the Lower
Silesian, Łódzkie and Świętokrzyskie voivodships.
134 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Olsztyn
9. Biały Jar – Karpacz
Warszawa
6. Szklarska Poręba
Wrocław
Kraków
created by lovePoland
*source:: www.pzlow.pl, 2009-2019 and PAN, www.lasy.gov.pl
4. Kasprowy Wierch
European bisons
One hundred years ago, the last free-living bison in the
Białowieża Forest was killed by a poacher.
The ideas to save the species were born in many countries. For
the first time, the appeal to establish an international
organization for the protection of the European bison was
presented at the International Congress for Nature
Conservation in Paris in 1923, by a Polish naturalist Jan
Sztolzman. His speech contributed to the establishment of the
International Society for the Protection of Bison, gathering
representatives of 16 countries. The representatives of Poland
and Germany were the most active members of the
organisation. In 1923, only 54 purebred European bisons
remained in the world, and 12 of them were used to restore the
species. The effort paid off and the first two bisons appeared in
the fall of 1929 in the pens built by State Forests in the
Białowieża Primeval Forest. In 1939, there were already 16
animals in the Forest that fortunately survived World War II
Currently, there are approx. 2,000 bison in Poland - this is a
number that fills us with pride and optimism, although the bison
is still not completely safe..
There are 5 free populations in Poland (Białowieża Primeval
Forest, Knyszyńska Primeval Forest, Borecka Primeval Forest,
West Pomeranian Herd and Bieszczady). At the end of 2014,
1434 bisons lived in Poland, including 222 in closed breeding and
1212 in free populations. At the end of 2019, after the inventory,
2048 animals were recorded in free herds and 221 in closed
farms. Our country is inhabited by a total of 2,269 bisons. This is
almost 400 animals more than two years earlier when in Poland
there were 1873 of them. These animals are most numerous in
the free population of Białowieża (770 animals) and in the
Bieszczady Mountains (668 animals). Then, successively, in the
West Pomeranian herd (305) and in the Knyszyńska Primeval
Forest (173) as well as in the Borecka Forest (112 animals). The
smallest, but also the youngest, free herd of European bison,
which was established in 2018, is located in Augustów Primeval
Forest and had 9 individuals at the beginning of the year.
When it comes to captive bred bisons, the definitely largest herd
is the "Żubrowisko" Reserve in Pszczyna (56), then the Breeding
Centre in Białowieża (27) and the European Bison Breeding
Centre in Niepołomice (22).
135 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
W W W . L I B R A . P L
L O V E P O L A N D . O R G M E D I A P A R T N E R