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Travel Love Poland Magazine – June 2021

Dear Readers, Summer came, beautiful and hot in Poland, but it was not an easy time to work on the next edition of the magazine. Some of you noticed that it appeared later than usual. This was probably due to the fact of the travel restrictions, we did not know how to approach the topic of travelling to our country. I know the arrival may be difficult for many, especially if you do not have vaccinations. However, we will show you a few beautiful places, hoping that there will come a time when traveling again will be associated with pleasure and not stress resulting from uncertainty and resurrections. We invite you to the Polish seaside to the beautiful Świnoujscie and to get to know old houses and palaces, mainly in Pomerania. We hope that the cooperation with Claudia will result in more interesting materials on this subject. As always, we recommend the photos and text of Marek Kalisiński, dedicated to Konik Polski. You should also go and discover Rytro in the photographs of Janusz Wańczyk. Of course, there are more beautiful photos in the Magazine – for example, photos of castles in the background of the Tatra Mountains made by Marcin, and for active recreation lovers, we encourage you to go on bicycle trips in the Beskid Sadecki.

Dear Readers,
Summer came, beautiful and hot in Poland, but it was not an easy time to work on the next edition of the magazine. Some of you noticed that it appeared later than usual. This was probably due to the fact of the travel restrictions, we did not know how to approach the topic of travelling to our country. I know the arrival may be difficult for many, especially if you do not have vaccinations. However, we will show you a few beautiful places, hoping that there will come a time when traveling again will be associated with pleasure and not stress resulting from uncertainty and resurrections.
We invite you to the Polish seaside to the beautiful Świnoujscie and to get to know old houses and palaces, mainly in Pomerania. We hope that the cooperation with Claudia will result in more interesting materials on this subject. As always, we recommend the photos and text of Marek Kalisiński, dedicated to Konik Polski.
You should also go and discover Rytro in the photographs of Janusz Wańczyk. Of course, there are more beautiful photos in the Magazine – for example, photos of castles in the background of the Tatra Mountains made by Marcin, and for active recreation lovers, we encourage you to go on bicycle trips in the Beskid Sadecki.

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J U N E - A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 | V O L 1 | I S S U E 1 6

I S S N 2 5 1 5 - 8 5 0 3

travel.lovePoland

through the lens

Polish koniks are widespread throughout the country.

Konik

Due to their small height, gentle character, friendly

attitude towards people and willingness to work,

they are eagerly used by children as well as adults

popular in hippotherapy.

and

Text and photos: Marek Kalisiński


M E D I A P A R T N E R

LOVEPOLAND.ORG

media partner

w i t k a c y t h e a t r e i n Z a k o p a n e

w w w . w i t k a c y . p l

"Life makes most sense at the height of nonsense"

Witkacy theatre is one of the most cherished theatres in Poland.

It was founded in 1984 in tribute to a Zakopane legend,

Stanislaw Ignacy Witkiewicz.






Every year in Świnoujście more and more vacationers, apart

from lying on the beach choose to rest actively, for example:

cycling, wander on numerous hiking trails and try out various

forms of water sports. It is during the holiday time that we

can do everything we miss during our everyday busy lives.

Świnoujście is a perfect place for active rest. Not many places

in Poland have such an interesting offer. Remarkable

geographic location and varied forms of terrain make splendid

and the charming sunsets viewed from the terrace of your

hotel or from your tent flap, will make your stay in

Świnoujście an unforgettable experience.

Therapeutic health treatment is centred in the seaside

district of Świnoujście, and it is conducted within fourteen

sanatoriums. The health resorts of Świnoujście specialise in

treating endocrinology, cardiology and dermatology related

diseases, as well as hearing, respiratory and spinal disorders

Ś W I N O U J Ś C I E ’ S U N I Q U E N A T U R A L V A L U E S O N C E M A D E I T T H E M O S T

P O P U L A R R E S O R T I N O U R P A R T O F E U R O P E .

conditions for different forms of tourism, sports and

recreation. Sea waters of Pomeranian Gulf, inland basin of

the Szczecin Lagoon, overflow area of the Stara Świna River

surrounded by forests, lakes, islets, beaches, flat forest

ducts, high moraine hills, fauna and flora of the nearby

nature reserves and the Wolin National Park – the following

pages will give you an idea how to make use of those

resources to the biggest extend.

Świnoujście's unique natural values once made it the most

popular resort in our part of Europe. Today, its extensive

moors and salt springs, and its modern treatment facilities

run by professional staff who ensure top quality service, are

highly appreciated by visitors from Poland and abroad. The

mild seaside micro-climate, sunny weather, breathtaking

landscape, clear and balsamic air that can be enjoyed during

pleasurable, relaxing walks, wonderful cycling and kayaking,

There is also a growing number of hotels and recreation

centres, which provide a wide variety of biological

regeneration services, using modern equipment and

cosmetic products sourced from renowned companies. In

Świnoujście, you will not only be cured, but you will also

regain your strength and energy.

In the recent years, with the efforts of self government and

financial aid from the European Union, Świnoujście has

created perfect conditions for cycling tourism. Currently,

there are over twelve kilometere-long cycling lanes in the

territorially limited by the Świna River and the state border

left hand bank part of the city itself. The cycling lanes

connect most important parts of the health resort – that is

the city center, the harbor, the seaboard district and the

border crossings to German towns of Ahlbeck and Garz.

07 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Additionally, there are over one hundred kilometers of

cycling lanes marked in a very clear way and according

to international standards. Moreover, excellent bicycle

infrastructure of German part of the Uznam island is

located in the vicinity. All those aspects make it possible

to adjust bicycle excursions precisely to your interests,

free time, as well as individual conditions and abilities.

The natural, historical and modern features of

Świnoujście can be explored by taking a walk along the

paths marked up in the Isles of Usedom and Wolin.

Walking tours along the seaside promenades in

Świnoujście, and in the neighbouring German Ahlbeck,

Heringsdorf and Bansin, will certainly be a pleasurable

experience. The picturesque sea location, the scent of

sand-dune plants or the ambience of the innumerable

seaside cafeterias provide a sufficient incentive.

A tour around the seaside districts can also be viewed

as an inspiring time travel to the turn of the 19th

Century which marked the flourishing of treatment

services, and the rapid development of the Usedom

resorts that were frequently visited by the political,

intellectual and cultural elites. Indeed, in these times,

the Isle of Usedom hosted such prominent figures as

Emperor William II, L. Tolstoy, M. Gorki, the Mann

brothers and J. Strauss.


This was also when an eclectic and elegant

architectural style, specific to health resort centres,

was developed, the so-called 'Kaiser architecture'.

Despite the severe bombing campaign experienced

by Świnoujście, then controlled by Germans, on the

last days of the World War II, some of the

monumental buildings reflecting this ornamental

style (which is comprised of decorative elevations,

columns, spires and loggias), have fortunately

survived. They can be now admired in Ahlbeck and

Heringsdorf.

We truly encourage you to take a walk around the

marked tourist trails in the Isles of Usedom and

Wolin. Surrounded by water and situated at the

contact point of the circulating land and sea

breezes, Świnoujście provides wonderful conditions

for practising windsurfing and kitesurfing.

The Usedom beach near the windmill, and the

Warszów district beach (in the Isle of Wolin), both

referred to as “spots” in the surfing jargon, have

invariably enjoyed a growing popularity among Polish

surfers. The best surfing conditions are created by

northern, north-eastern and north-western winds.

Southern winds, on the other hand, favour

Szczecińskie Lake.

09 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


The opening of borders for car traffic in the Isle of Usedom has

considerably facilitated the access to water areas in the German

part of the Isle, such as the one in the village of Kamminke,

located near Świnoujście. These areas are suitable to practice

both windsurfing and kite-surfing. The relatively shallow water

surrounding Świnoujście, and the wide beach are recommended by

professional instructors as making Świnoujście the safest place to

learn kite-surfing. What is more, the vicinity of other near-by

“spots” gives an opportunity to continue training when wind

conditions change. Świnoujście is considered a real fisherman's

heaven. The local waters are home to innumerable species of

freshwater, migratory and sea fish. This is where impressive

specimens of sanders, breams and pike fish can be caught,

especially in June and October., while the period from Spring to

Autumn is best for perch and roach fishing. Indeed, 4-5 kg of

these two species can be caught within as little as one hour.

Eels floating down the Oder river basin are also frequently

encountered at this time. Perches and burbots dominate at the

turn of Autumn, together with flounders and plaices. You may

also come across royal salmons and migratory Salmo trout,

weighing up to 20 kg.

The Land of 44 Islands is a real paradise for the lovers of Nordic

walking. The wide several-kilometres-long beaches in the Isle of

Usedom, on both the Polish and German sides of the border, are

undoubtedly the most suitable venue to practise this sport.

The huge Spa Park, located between the Seaside District and the

city centre, also encourages you to take a long walk, even in

windy weather. While in the park, you will have a wonderful

opportunity to explore Nature, including seeing a number of rare

trees and shrubs. The forest area, connected with the forest

growing in the German part of Usedom, constitutes another

exceptional location to practice Nordic walking. Indeed, a while

back, two running and walking paths were marked up in the

forest at Moniuszki Street. These are intended for all of course,

not just for Nordic walkers alone.

In addition, by taking the seaside path along the Isle of Wolin, or

the cycling lane R-10 that leads through the forest, you can reach

the neighbouring city of Międzyzdroje.

The geographic location of Świnoujście, combined with the

diversity and attractiveness of the local water areas, creates

exceptional conditions for sea and inland sailing. Experienced

sailors, willing to explore open water areas, can sail out from

Świnoujście to the Baltic Sea. Szczecińskie Lake connects the

surrounding Polish and German ports and marinas, while the

Stara Świna lakes and pools are ideal training venues for less

advances sailors. Located at a short distance from Germany and

Scandinavia, Świnoujście provides a myriad of opportunities for

Polish sailors, and is an inviting port for German and Scandinavian

ones.

Our modern yacht port in Świnoujście can accommodate

approximately 350 vessels. This is the largest one on the Polish

coast within the Northern region (53°54′48″N 14°16′8″E).

(http://www.osir.swinoujscie.pl/obiekty-sportowe/portjachtowy/opis).

Sheltered from open water, the yacht port is

situated in the north-east of the city, on the Isle of Usedom, in

the vicinity of the Spa Park and the 19th Century fortifications. In

addition, it is only a short distance from the city centre. The high

standards of service in this yacht port have been confirmed by

the awarding of the prestigious international quality sign,

referred to as the Blue Flag.

Each summer, Świnoujście hosts a number of regatta, which

attract dozens of participants. The more important events

include the 'Days of the Sea Regatta', the 'Tourist Regatta' and

the 'Unity Line Regatta'. Larger vessels can also be seen during

the annual sailing event, known as 'Sail Świnoujście', which takes

place in August. A cruise on a sailing ship is an inimitable

opportunity for all landlubbers to experience a fascinating sea

adventure. The spread sun-bleached sails, the drifting vessels

and crews working hard onboard, create an unforgettable image

that will be frequently recalled by tourists long after they leave

Świnoujście.

10 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Sunset. Świnoujście Beach

11 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


TOP 6 IN ŚWINOUJŚCIE

01

The Maritim Fishing Museum

02 The Angel's Fort

03 The Christ the King Church

The former Town Hall, the oldest

building in town (project from

1792, built 1804 – 1806), today

housing the Museum of the Deep

Sea Fishing; exhibits include the

history of sea fishing, sea animals,

the town and its region, and old

navigation equipment; also a place

of numerous occasional

exhibitions.

Address: 1 Plac Rybaka Street

A Prussian construction erected

between 1854 – 1858; initially

under the name of “Werk III”,

which was subsequently changed

into The Fort of Angel due to a

striking resemblance to the

Roman Mausoleum of the

Emperor Hadrian; the

construction is a three level

rotunda, topped with a terrace

and the observation tower.

Address: Jachtowa Street

The 18th century Christ the King

Church – erected on the site of a

gothic temple; a wooden ship

replica is in the main nave, called

„vergissmannicht“, what means

“don’t forget”; from June to

September every Sunday a place

of the International Music

Festival “Organ Nights”

Address: 1 Plac Kościelny Street

04 The Lighthouse

05 Underground city

Breakwaters

06

Put into service in 1857, highest

on the Baltic Sea – 68m, one of

the highest in Europe, 308 stairs

to an observation deck, sea rescue

and lighthouse exhibition.

Opening hours:

March-June and September-

October daily from 10am-6pm

July-August daily from 10am-8pm

November-February

daily 10am-4pm

The longest underground tourist

route in northern Poland! The

complex of bunkers and tunnels,

built in the first half of the 20th

century. During World War II, the

building served as a coastal

defense battery, and after the

war – a Command Post for the

Polish Army Command.

The structure is located in the

forest between the Świnoujście-

Przytór railway station and the

beach.

From the early nineteenth

century, the western together

with the "Stawa Młyny" -

navigation sign in the shape of

the windmill, the central - with a

length of over 1400 meters into

the depths ot the sea (the

longest stone pier in Europe).

ŚWINOUJŚCIE

"As the staff of the Tourist Information, we are willing to provide you with any assistance and good advice that you request. We will also be happy

to answer all your questions at any time, and we will recommend you places worth seeing. Moreover, we will show you the local tourist trails.

Feel free to come visit us at the Tourist Information, located in the city centre, near the museum and ferry crossing".

It is our hope that when leaving Świnoujście, you will say “See you soon”.

The Tourist Information Centre will provide you with free information materials regarding the City of Świnoujście.

Tourist Information

6/1 Plac Słowiański

72-600 Świnoujście

Latitude 53.90790°N Longitude 14.25020°E

Work hours:

Monday - Friday: 9am-5pm Saturday: 10am-2pm

12 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND








S T A Y | R E S T | E N J O Y N A T U R E

CHATA LEONA

GORLICE

LOW BESKID

Chata Leona (Leon's Hut) is located in the heart of the

it is impossible not to notice the numerous war

picturesque Low Beskid, on the outskirts of Gorlice. It is

cemeteries scattered across the Beskid villages and

an ideal place for a family holiday or a weekend with

mountain peaks. It is a perfect place for unhurried

friends - especially for the lovers of relaxation in cosy,

wandering, savouring every moment, and observing wild

wooden interiors. The excellent location of the facility

nature

provides quick access to the most popular attractions of

Chata Leona has 5 double bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, a

the Beskid, such as the Magura National Park, Lake

large kitchen, a shared lounge and dining area, a large

Klimkówka or Regietów, where the largest Hucul horse

private covered terrace and a sunny patio with access

stud in Europe is located, and the most frequented

to the garden. Here you can find peace and relaxation

hiking and cycling routes. Picturesque surroundings are

in the privacy of nature, among trees and flowers. Just 2

full of Lemko accents. The area is rich in ski slopes for

km from Gorlice, a city with many attractions such as a

lovers of winter madness.

cycling town, indoor and outdoor swimming pools,

While wandering through the lands of the Low Beskids,

cinema, bowling and numerous bars and restaurants.

Reservations and inquiries can be made

via Facebook @chataleona

or

email: ChataLeonaGorlice@gmail.com

We look forward to welcoming you!

19 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


B E A U T I F U L B A L T I C B A Y A R E A

W I T H H I N T E R L A N D

prepared with cooperation of Claudia Schaffhausen

Marketing und Öffentlichkeitsarbeit

Projektleitung Baltic Manors

www.baltic-manors.eu

www.mein-urlaub-im-schloss.de

kontakt@mein-urlaub-im-schloss.de

Like us: www.facebook.com/travelbalticmanors

Follow us! www.instagram.com/balticmanors

20 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Manor Houses in Northern

Kashubia

Manors on Northern Kashubia are still not well known touristic

attraction of region. Latest researches shows that in this area

there are 200 manors. Only in the region of Wejherowo

(Neustadt) were 100 manors. Near Puck (Putzig) and Lębork

(Lauenburg) were 56 and 60 manors. The high number of

manors in this region showed the wealth of their owners and

also it was a sign of present Pomeranian noble families with

polish and German roots. The variety of the Kashubian manor

houses is enormously. Same is the todays usage. The range is

from luxury restored 5 star hotel to a simple bed & breakfast.

But still a lot of the Kashubian manors are in very bad condition

which is painfully especially for people who are loving history

and architecture. After some manors only ruins remained, traces

on maps, pictures in families or national archives.

Where to visit

From some manors which were renovated worth seeing

mansions are connected with cultural activities great example of

new life in old place is palace in Wejherowo which is museum of

Pomeranian-Kashubian music and literature, similar role has

Manor in Rumia (Ruhmel)(polish name Dworek pod lipami) and in

Gościcino (Gossentin) (Dworek drzewiarza) which are community

centers. Most of manors are year-round well prosperity hotels

and restaurants in: Ciekocinek (Zackenzin), Godętowo

(Goddentow), Kłanino (Klanin), Lisewo (Lissau), Rekowo Górne

(Reckow), Rzucewo (Rutzau). In some of manors we can find

agrotourism farms for example in: Borkowo Lęborskie (Borkow),

Gościcino (Gossentin), Jackowo (Jatzkow) and Kurowo (Kurow).

Besides, tourists can choose very attractive offers in manors in

Salino (Saulin) and Żarnowiec (Zarnowitz).

The rich and green region at the Gdansk Bay is one of the most

popular touristic destinations in Poland. Which is not a surprise,

because the link between the seaside and the forests and fields,

picturesque little towns and villages with historic Mansions and

Manor Houses are very attractive. This area combines the

advantages of sunbathing, watersports and active holiday with

the joy of cultural and historical attractions. The Hel Peninsula is

unique in European scale and offers pine forests, sand dunes and

a diverse fauna. Puck is a charming small town by the sea, close

by starts the Pomeranian Cistercian Trail and many small villages

with typical local architecture. The Kashubian Jerusalem – the

third oldest calvary in Poland is located in Wejherowo, along with

the famous castle.

The German family von Keyserlingk built Wejherowo (Neustadt)

around 1800. In 1945 they, like most Germans in North

Kashubia, fled the impending Red Army. After the war, the

manor house was used as Citizens’ Militia station, school and

kindergarten for deaf children. Following the reforms of the

1990's it became part of the Museum of Kashubian-Pomeranian

Literature and Music. The variety of the Kashubian manor

houses is enormously. Same is the todays usage. The range is

from luxury restored 5 star hotel to nice and simple holiday

apartments.

Manor Houses in Parseta

River Basin

The river Parseta is around 130km long and is located in the

region of Western Poland. It springs in a place called Parsęcko

and meanders north to Kołobrzeg where it flows into the Baltic

Sea. It flows through riparian forests, meadows and peat bogs.

The Parseta River Basin there is a special habitat protection

zone . The Natura 2000 “Dorzecze Parsęty” area is located

within the districts of Białogard, Kołobrzeg, Koszalin,

Szczecinek, and Świdwin.

It encompasses the areas of the Drawsko Lakeland, through the

Łobez Upland, the Gryfice Plain, the Białogard Plain, to the

Slovincian Coast. The Parsęta River is the main axis of the

region, along with the valleys of its tributaries, such as Pysznica,

Pokrzywnica with Młynówka, Topiel, Mogilica, Bukowa, Dębnica

with Wogra and Lubatówka, Perznica with Łozica, Chwalimka,

Kłuda, and Żegnica. The southern border of the area is marked

with the sources of the Parsęta River near Parsęcko, about 7km

to the north west from Szczecinek, while the northern border

demarcates the neighbourhood of Kołobrzeg and the coast of

the Baltic Sea, to which the river flows.This very diverse area is

worth visiting not only because of natural values. It can be

admired from a kayak, but a part of river sections is navigable

only for experienced canoeists. One can also mount a bike and

go along the “Wzdłuż rzeki Parsęty” trail.

On the route, there are castles, Slavonic fortified towns,

humpbacked bridges made of brick and stone, old mills, old

hydro-technical systems (hydraulic rams), and chapels to be

seen.

21 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Klanino, Photo: Jan Rusek

Apartment Deluxe Palace, Ciekocinko

This region in Western Poland used to be Prussian (German) and the

former landowners built a lot of Manor houses as a residential house

for the large agricultural estates. In its present form, manors in the

area of the Parsęta basin meet several functions.A lot of them are

ruins and are still in the process of decay. Some have been restored

and have nice hotel facilities nowadays. Some are schools, social

welfare houses or training facilities or offer private apartments. If

you are traveling from the West to this region, you may stay in

beautiful Palace of Ryman, a hotel and restaurant, near Gryfice.

The Manor house in Bukówko, now a private hotel facility run by the

former teachers, who taught here, when the house was used as a

school after world war two.

Palace in Karlino, after the Second World War, the building became an

agricultural base and now it is under renovation and it will perform as

a hotel. Pałac Nosowo (Schloss Nassow) was built in neo-Renaissance

architecture by the patrician family of the Holkens from Kołobrzeg in

1850. After that the estate was held by several other families like

von Münchow, the von Heydebreck and von Sprenger families until

1945. Now the Pałac Nosowo, which is located in a nice woody area in

Koszalin County, offers hotels rooms and halls for weddings and

photo: Kasia and Igor at the set of the music video "Zoriuszka"

of the Sound of Triglav project.

celebrations. Kozia Góra (Gutshaus Cosesec) was built by Heinrich

Friedrich von Podewils in Baroque style and a large park.

22 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

By the end of 19th century the palace was rebuilt in a neo-gothic

style, which was so modish at that time. Decorative galleries,

towers and balconies appeared. The south facade is the richest

one, there are knights’ sculptures as well as heraldic cartouches.

The volume (cubature) of the palace amounting over 7800 m2

proves its grandeur. At present the palace is in a state of

renovation, which shall lead to arising of an exclusive hotel. But it

already hosted some concerts and festives. The palaces and

manors (pałac and dwór) are part of the cultural heritage in this

region, that are still at the beginning of the development and

promise a secret treasure soon to be discovered. In Siemczynie

there is a Baroque palace, built between 1722 ans 1726 by Berndt

von der Goltz as the center of a large agricultural estate with a

park and farm buildings. The attraction in the park is the alley with

hornbeam trees. Today it is still under re-construction, the palace

itself hosts two exhibitions, one on the Baroque period and one the

agricultural and peasant life of the days. Opposite the Palace is a

hotel with restaurant, which offers lively cultural events for

visitors and local people.

The Baltic Sea beaches, the Odra River basin, the picturesque

Sudety Mountains, bustling metropolises – Wrocław, Poznań and

Szczecin, and numerous historical towns determine the tourist

attractiveness of Western Poland. Throughout the Parsęta basin

there are cycling and canoeing routes, rivers Radew, Parsęta and

other smaller ones, some lead through the woods and meadows,

others will lead to the Baltic Coast. Trips and horse trips are

organized. If you visit Western Poland, you will soon appreciate the

cultural, natural and spa assets of this region. Heritage attractions

is the Centennial Hall in Wrocław and the Churches of Peace in

Jawor and Świdnica, as well as to outstanding works of wooden

architecture. Let yourself get lost in one of the numerous historical

towns, which will fascinate you with their monuments and

ingenious and well-organised events. Solace for your body you will

find in well-known health resorts–Lądek-Zdrój, Polanica-Zdrój,

Międzyzdroje, Kołobrzeg and Połczyn-Zdrój.



Vintage houses and farm

buildings in the Vistula

Żuławy

The Vistula Żuławy region is a completely flat area with

picturesque landscapes, rich in many tourist attractions,

including i.a. wonderful houses and farm buildings of Dutch

background. Among them we can distinguish two types of

vintage Żuławy farmhouses and manors. The first ones have

usually fronts, doors, portals, windows and windowshields

beautifully carved in wood. The other ones are arcade houses,

which constitute the last so valuable vintage buildings

characteristic for depression terrains. During cycling trips

that can start from nearby Gdansk, you may see various

examples of Żuławy houses and manors, among the arcade

houses we will see not only the smallest, but also the most

conspicuous one. Among many, which are slowly falling into

ruins, there are also those, which are carefully restored and

completely new ones, which were built according to the

ancient design a great number of years ago. In the Żuławy,

apart from houses and farm buildings, it is possible to see

many other historic constructions, such as knights’ manors

and strongholds, gothic churches and their ruins, old

cemeteries and hydrotechnical constructions, that is why

cycling tours are here an interesting pastime, in particular for

families with children or all those, who only start their cycling

adventure.

The cycling tours which are proposed will certainly allow you

to get acquainted with the interesting architecture and

landscape of the Żuławy region. In many places they are

connected with the network of international long distance

EuroVelo cycling routes, what facilitates riding and

orientation in the area. The Żuławy is a region which is still

not very well known among tourists, in particular if we want

to extend the excursion for several days. That is why it is a

good idea to start and finisz the trip in larger cities or towns

such as: Gdańsk, Malbork, Nowy Dwór Gdański, Nowy Staw.

To stay overnight in the region we suggest Cedrowy Dworek.

Where to visit

In Żuławy region, apart from varied architecture the

landscape itself plays a very important role. While riding

across the area on a bicycle we can immediately notice a

complete lack of hills. The other aspect, which is immediately

noticed while rolling over further kilometres is a complete

absence of forests. The only trees are the tall poplar trees

and lush willow trees growing along roads and numerous

irrigation canals.

Between them there are arable fields stretching to horizon,

meadows and pastures, which sparkle with all colours

depending on the season, that is why it is worth to come

here not only in spring or in summer, but also in autumn and

in winter. Architectural sights besides the farm houses and

arcades are Gothic churches, mennonite cemeteries and

windmills.

The arcade, as an architectural element of a farmhouse,

functioned in the Żuławy region since medieval times and

was adopted in later periods by later settlers.

photo:

Folwark at Jackowo - Kashubia, photo: JanRusek

24 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


J a c k o w o

w w w . b a l t i c - m a n o r s . e u



P a l a c e C i e k o c i n k o

w w w . b a l t i c - m a n o r s . e u


wild and free

by Marek Kalisiński


THE KONIK

WILD AND FREE

WORDS & PHOTOS

Marek Kalisiński

www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo

The Konik (in Polish: konik polski) is a primitive horse breed, which means that it inherited from its wild ancestors numerous features that

allow it to survive in harsh conditions and quickly adapt to new surroundings.

Koniks are characterized by high resistance to diseases and

low feed requirements. It is a late-maturing breed (3-5

years), characterized by a strong build, thick and very hairy

skin, short stature (height at the withers 130-140 cm) and

weight from 350 to 400kg. The blue dun coat is a

characteristic trait of the breed. Another marking is a dark

stripe along the back, visible also on the legs. The mane and

tail are heavily hairy and completely black or with a touch of

light hair. The chest is deep and strongly ribbed. They have

hard horn hoofs, which allows them to move on firm ground

without shoeing. The stallions are larger than the mares.

Some individuals live up to 33 years of age, although their

life expectancy is shorter (about 30 years). In free-range

breeding, they form studs led by a stallion or a dominant

mare and the rest of the herd following the rules imposed

by them.

The history of the Polish Konik is intertwined

with the primitive breed of the tarpan (Equus

gmelini), considered by some researchers to be

the wild ancestor of the domestic horse, which

inhabited Eastern Europe and survived in the

wild until the 19th century. The last free-living

representative of this species (whether it was

a tarpan or a feral domestic horse) was killed in

Ukraine in 1879 or 1880, but the real tarpan

certainly died in 1887 in the Moscow Zoo.

In 1780, all the tarpans that lived free in the

Białowieża Primeval Forest and the

surrounding forests were caught and placed in

the zoo of Zamoyski counts in Zwierzyniec,

near Biłgoraj. The tarpans were not considered

to be of utility value and around 1806 they

were caught and handed over to local peasants.

You know...

Photo: Marek Kalisiński

www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo

29 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


At the beginning of the 20th century, when the research was

started in the vicinity of Biłgoraj, it turned out that there were

horses closely resembling the old blue dun tarpans, with a dark

stripe along their backs. Professor Vetulani got interested in

these horses and it was him who introduced the name "Polish

Konik" to the hippological literature; soon it became the

generally accepted name of the breed. Based on research and

observations, he hypothesized that among the tarpans living in

the grasslands of Eastern Europe, a forest form emerged,

which until the 18th century lived in Poland, Lithuania and

Prussia. Even though wild tarpans lived in Polish and Ukrainian

lands until the 19th century, the species disappeared as a

result of mixing with farm horses. In 1923, in the State Stud

Farm in Janów Podlaski and 1928 in the Dworzyszcze farm,

belonging to the Krzemieniecki Secondary School, these horses

were first attempted to be bred. And in 1936, on the initiative

of prof. Vetulani, a reserve of the Polish koniks was created in

Białowieża, where the animals were kept free-range to restore

the forest tarpan by natural selection in semi-wild conditions.

There were 40 individuals in the herd. In addition, in 1938,

three studs were established in the Vilnius Region, where the

best mares and stallions collected in this area were placed.

During the war, other Polish Konik's breeding centres were

established, e.g. in Łuka, in Tarnopol province, in Wacyń near

Radom, Felin near Lublin and Deraźno in Volhynia as well as at the

National Research Institute of Rural Farms in Puławy. During the

war, lots of horses were lost while some were taken to Germany.

After the war, the small number of surviving Polish koniks, including

15 horses from the Białowieża reserve, 14 from the Puławy stud

(PINGW), 7 from the Deraźne stud and a few animals from private

breeding, enabled the restart of breeding. The group of horses

(except the Białowieża stud) used to change their place of

residence quite frequently. A real stable was built for them only

when they moved to Popielno in Masuria in 1949. Soon, it became

the main breeding centre of koniks. In 1955, the Polish Academy of

Sciences took over the stud in Popielno and continued breeding in

the stable system, as well as in the reserve system, thus carrying

out the interrupted experiment of prof. Vetulani. Apart from these

two centres, some small studs, where Polish koniks began to be

raised in the stable system, were established in the 1950s and

1960s. Most of them were closed down and only a few have

survived to the present day, keeping the status of the Polish Konik

conservative breeding centres.

In addition to stable breeding in Poland, the so-called reserve

breeding began to develop in the refuges of the Polish Konik. Apart

from Popielno and Białowieża, it was undertaken by the Roztocze

National Park in Zwierzyniec in 1982 (where the last tarpans were

found).

Thirsty

Photo: Marek Kalisiński

www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo

30 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Then, in 1990, Eliza and Jan Płoński established a refuge in

Zielony Ostrów, in the area of the “Seven Islands” reserve near

Węgorzewo (since 2009, the refuge has been run by the Borki

Forest Inspectorate). The Biebrza National Park started

breeding in 2004, and Aleksander Kowalski established a

sanctuary in the "Barycz Valley" Landscape Park near Milicz in

2007 and the Kliniska Forest District near Goleniów in 2010.

Nowadays, breeding is carried out in three types: stable

(alcove), where horses are under strict human control;

stableless system, where horses stay on pastures all the time,

are tamed and looked after by people and perform various

types of work, and the third form, characterized by the fact

that horses live in the wild, acquire food and reproduce in freerange

and human interference is limited to the necessary

minimum.

At present, Polish koniks are widespread throughout the

country. Their numbers are increasing significantly and we can

meet them not only in Poland, but also in the Netherlands,

Germany, Sweden, France, Belgium and England. A large part

of them is still kept in reservations. Due to their small height,

gentle character, friendly attitude towards people and

willingness to work, they are eagerly used by children as well

as adults and popular in hippotherapy. In the last few decades,

Polish koniks have been used to preserve valuable natural habitats,

where cows grazing or mowing has been stopped, which resulted in

the overgrowing of these areas with shrub and woody vegetation

and the expansion of undesirable species. They play the role of the

so-called live lawnmowers, gnawing and trampling on plants and the

bark of trees, limiting their succession, thus restoring or preserving

meadow and pasture vegetation, which is the only habitat for many

species of birds and other animals, thus increasing biodiversity in a

given area.

I personally had the opportunity to observe Polish koniks and take

pictures of them in the "Szczecin Lagoon Nature Park", which

belongs to the Association for the Coast and is located in

Skoszewskie Meadows lying on the Szczecin Lagoon - the entire

area is included in the European Ecological Network Natura 2000.

They were brought here in 2002 from a surplus of Polish koniks

from the Biebrza National Park. Let me mention that the entire

route (approx. 700 km) they did on their own hooves. A small herd

of 15 horses that came here then, has developed into the current

stud of about 250 animals which makes a great impression on

tourists visiting the Park. I think it is worth visiting such places,

especially now, when there are more and more of them, providing an

opportunity to observe almost wild horses in their natural

environment.

Marek Kalisiński, Szczecin, May 2021

Intimacy

Photo: Marek Kalisiński

www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo

31 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Above: On the way one by one | Below: Young horse in a winter fur

32 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Above: The great three!

| Below: Use the shade of trees to protect themselves from the heat

33 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


The Konik




Do not look at me that way!

Photo: Marek Kalisiński

www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo



crossing the ford

Crossing

Marek Photo: Kalisiński

Marek Kalisiński

www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo

www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo



After the storm

Photo: Marek Kalisiński

www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo



In the mirror

Photo: Marek Kalisiński

www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo



Just try!

Photo: Marek Kalisiński

www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo



Upcoming storm

Photo: Marek Kalisiński

www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo



Sunrise

Photo: Marek Kalisiński

www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo


Rytro has great conditions for long walks

and cycling, as well as for organized horse

riding and skiing trips. In addition, there is

the possibility of observing rare species of

mountain animals and plants along the way.


RYTRO BESKID SĄDECKI

PHOTOS JANUSZ WAŃCZYK

www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk

Rytro is situated on the route of the main tourist trail of the mountains of Beskid Sądecki in a beautiful gorge in the Poprad Valley. From the west, it is

surrounded by wooded hills of the Radziejowa range (1,265m above sea level), and from the east by the Jaworzyna range with Makowica (948m ASL).

Over 70% of the commune's area is covered by forests, which provides a wonderful, clean climate.

The land of Rytro has a several centuries-long

history. The history of the oldest village of Rytro has

been documented since 1312 by the privilege charter

of King Władysław I the Elbow-High, granting to the

Poor Clares from Stary Sącz the right to collect

customs duties on Poprad. We meet the name of

Rytro (Rytter) for the first time in the will of Piotr

Wyżdżga of 1224. He was the owner of the Rytro

Castle, defending the country's borders with

Hungary, and at the same time constituting a

customs house over the land and water routes.

During the castle's splendour, numerous royal

processions (e.g. of Władysław I the Elbow-High,

Casimir the Great, Jadwiga) passed through Rytro.

The ruins of the castle have remained to this day one

of the attractions of the commune for passers-by.

For several years, archaeological and conservation

works on the castle hill have been taking place

The centre of Rytro lies at an altitude of 339 meters

above sea level. The village has particularly good climatic

conditions and is popular as a summer resort and the

seat of numerous camps, resorts and summer

sleepaways. It is a junction of tourist routes and a staging

area for hiking along the main Beskid route from Krynica

to Krościenko. Rytro has great conditions for long walks

and cycling, as well as for organized horse riding and

skiing trips. In addition, there is the possibility of

observing rare species of mountain animals and plants

along the way. The beauty of Rytro nature was described

by Maria Kownacka in the story Rogaś z Doliny Roztoki

(Rogaś Fawn from the Roztoka Valley), still used as a

school reading today. Rytro combines the advantages of

a quiet commune, a mountain tourism base, and an

exclusive holiday destination. There is access to an indoor

swimming pool and spa at the Perła Południa, Jantar, and

Janina hotels, as well as other guest houses.

On photo: Morning fogs - Połom Wyżna hill

51 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


There are also agritourism lodgings and guest rooms in the

commune. Operating since 2005, a modern ski and recreation

centre called Ryterski Raj includes a chairlift, a T-bar lift, a carpet

lift for children, and downhill ski runs with accommodation and

catering facilities. Since 2008, the company ABlandia invites

visitors to try out a professional rope park with several dozen

platforms, footbridges, other obstacles, and ziplining. You can

have a great time there!

Another attraction of the Rytro Commune is river rafting on the

Poprad from Piwniczna to Rytro. Safe boats with tourists cover

the 10-kilometre stretch of the picturesque Poprad valley,

providing an unforgettable experience. An open-air event called

Dni Rytra (Rytro Days) is organized annually for guests and

residents in August.

The commune is situated in the valley of the Poprad Landscape

Park. Short walks through the valleys of Mała and Wielka Roztoka

allow you to easily notice many unique, rare representatives of

local flora and fauna. At the springs of Roztoczanka, the Baniska

reserve was established in 1924, consisting of the protected

stands of beech, fir, spruce, and sycamore.

From the animals living there, lynx have been covered with legal

protection. In the winter, you can often meet wild boar, deer, and

hares in the meadows near the forests. Clear waters of Roztoczanka

are the habitat of brown trout. Below the reserve, a water intake has

been built to provide drinking water to the inhabitants of the

commune. The Roztoka Valley is the last valley of the Beskid Sądecki

that has not been regulated by the channel regulations, thus

preserving the areas of wet meadows and marshes here. They have

become the habitat of several species of amphibians (newts,

salamanders, frogs). About five varieties of orchids can be seen in

this area in the spring. Several species of reptiles (lizards,

blindworms, grass snakes) can be found on the sunny mountain

slopes.

The occurrence of these rare amphibians and reptiles has caused the

Rytro Commune Self-government to establish close cooperation with

the Greenworks Association, resulting in the creation of the

Commune Ecological Park. Clean air, unspoiled, in places even virgin

nature, favours the development of beekeeping. There are about 250

bee stumps in the commune, and beekeepers have the best honey

products. Their specialities include honeydew honey, bee products,

and the increasingly popular Rytro mead, made according to a secret

recipe.

On photo: After the harvest - evening rest time in the Poprad Valley

52 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Activities

Rafting on the Poprad by Boat

Rafting down the Poprad Valley is one of the greatest attractions of

the region. Safe boats have a very shallow draught, which makes it

possible to continue rafting even in case of low water levels. The

boat is controlled by two raftsmen who steer it with wooden poles.

The rafting starts at the marina in Piwniczna at ul.Gąsiorowskiego

(below the suspension bridge) that can be reached by going towards

the border crossing with Slovakia. After about 10km of rafting, the

boats arrive at the marina in Rytro, located near the football field. On

a boat swaying by the rapids of the river, you can admire the

beautiful Beskid landscapes and have an experience that only

raftsmen floating timber or merchants transporting their goods from

Hungary on rafts could have had years ago.

Details: www.splywdolinapopradu.pl

The Lookout Tower on the Top of Radziejowa

Radziejowa (1266m) is the highest peak of the Beskid Sądecki range

and belongs to the Crown of the Polish Mountains. At the top of the

mountain, there is a wooden observation tower, approximately 20-

metres high, offering an unforgettable view.

Ecological Park for the Protection of Amphibians and Reptiles

in Rytro.

The Ecological Park was established in 1996 to protect the unique

habitats of flora and fauna characteristic of wetlands in the

mountains. The area of 0.52 hectares constitutes a habitat for

numerous species of reptiles and amphibians, which are very rare in

many other places of Poland. These are the grass snake, the common

viper, the smooth snake, the slow worm, the sand lizard, and the

viviparous lizard. The group of amphibians is represented by the

common toad, the yellow-bellied toad, the common frog, the tree

frog, the Carpathian newt, the great crested newt, the common

newt, and the mountain newt as well as the spotted salamander. All

animals listed above are protected by law. Two species deserve

particular attention- the endemic Carpathian newt and the smooth

snake (a rare domestic snake).

Ruins of the Castle in Rytro.

The castle, situated on a high hill on the right bank of the Poprad

River, north of the village of Sucha Struga, was probably built at the

turn of the 13th and 14th centuries. Some nineteenth-century

authors suggested that the oldest part of the building (i.e. the stone

tower) might date back to the twelfth century. Currently, however, it

is believed to have come from the thirteenth century. The ruins of

the castle that have remained to this day are one of the main tourist

attractions of the commune. For several years, archaeological and

conservation works on the castle hill have been taking place.

You may have a look at the gallery, showing before and after pictures

of the renovation works, which might encourage you to visit the castle

hill on your own.

The Baniska Reserve is a strict nature reserve located in the area of

the spring cirque of the Bański Creek (Baniska). It is on the northern

slopes of Radziejowa (1266m above sea level) and at the same time in

the area of the Poprad Landscape Park. Baniska is a forest reserve and

it was created to protect the well-preserved original fragment of the

lower mountain zone forest (the Carpathian beech forest) with

specimens of old trees. The oldest ones are estimated to be over 200

years old. In the area of the reserve that was expanded in 2007, there

is a valley landslide, rarely seen in the Carpathians, two elevated

landforms, rock formations, and a landslide lake called Banie or Młaka.

The name of the reserve comes from this lake. There is a drinking

water intake for Rytro at the lower edge of the reserve. The Baniska

reserve can be visited using the educational path called Rogasiowy

Szlak, designated in 2005.

Tourist Trails

Jaworzyna range:

RED TRAIL

Rytro - Makowica - Zadnie Góry - Pisana Hala -

Wierch Nad Kamieniem - Łabowska Hala

(mountain lodge). Walking time: 4 hours

Radziejowa range:

RED TRAIL

Rytro - Mikołaska - Kordowiec - Czekaj -

Niemcowa - Wielki Rogacz - Żłóbki - Radziejowa -

Złomisty Wierch (south) - Złomist Wierch (north)

- Przehyba (mountain lodge).

Walking time: 5.5 hours

BLUE TRAIL

Rytro - Wielka Roztoka - Wdżary - Wietrzne

Dziury - Przehyba (mountain lodge). Walking

time: 3.45 hours

53 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


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elit. Proin sed arcu dui. Aliquam quis ipsum non magna

auctor porta eget sit amet ex. Nulla viverra pulvinar

porttitor. Suspendisse ut leo id nisl fermentum vulputate.

Nunc tincidunt nisi justo, at feugiat quam congue sed.

Nulla ipsum enim, pellentesque at ex non, tincidunt

egestas ligula. Curabitur ornare, lacus ut gravida

elementum, diam orci theais. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet,

consectetur adipiscing elit. Mauris varius orci t

empus, iaculis lectus mattis, sagittis mi. In hac habitasse

platea dictumst. Integer a sem enim. Integer sed augue

nibh. Cras auctor purus eget sem lacinia sagittis. Phasellus

at feugiat quam congue sed. Nulla ipsum enim,

pellentesque at ex non. sagittis.

54 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


On photo: Ruins of the Castle in Rytro.

On photo: Field geometry - Mikołaska


RYTRO BESKID SĄDECKI

PHOTOS JANUSZ WAŃCZYK

www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk

On photo: Evening scenery on the Połom hill

56 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


On photo: In the colors of late summer

57 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND



After the storm - menacingly and beautifully

Photo: Janusz Wańczyk

www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk



After the storm - menacingly and beautifully

Photo: Janusz Wańczyk

www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk



Rainbow summer

Photo: Janusz Wańczyk

www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk



Przysietnickie fields in the evening light

Photo: Janusz Wańczyk

www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk



Obłazy Ryterskie - the colorful time of lupine

Photo: Janusz Wańczyk

www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk


DISCOVER KRUTYNIA RIVER

A RIVER WITHOUT SECRETS

text source: https://mazury.travel/en

Krutynia

Anyone who has ever travelled the Krutynia route will agree that it is one of

the most beautiful in Poland. And Masuria explored from a canoe is not only an

idyll, but also an exciting adventure.

The Krutynia river starts its course in the Mragowo Lake District, flows out of

Warpuńskie Lake, crosses lakes in the Masurian Plain and ends its course in the

Land of the Great Masurian Lakes. The trail leads through a dozen or so lakes

connected by short rivers, which have been given the common name Krutynia.

The whole trail consists of almost 102 kilometres of marked routes, winding

through picturesque areas, from Sorkwity to Ruciane-Nida. On the trail there are

10 PTTK (Polish Tourist and Sightseeing Society) water stations waiting for us,

where we can rest, eat and stay overnight. Clear water, voices of nature, stunning

views and desertion in some less popular sections of the trail. No matter where

you are at the moment, you will be enchanted.

More than half of the trail runs in the Masurian Landscape Park, and the marked

route runs in the vicinity of 10 nature reserves. This means that here you are

looking at nature and nature is looking at you. The grey heron will accompany you

as you cross the river from Ukta to Bełdany Lake, and if you have a good eye, you

can see the white-tailed eagle and the black stork.

The section of the route from Krutyń to Ukta is considered to be one

of the most beautiful. Sailing 13 km, you will absorb the omnipresent

greenery, delighted and surprised that so little is needed for

happiness. In the initial part of the trail, by the lakes, you will find

charming and secluded beaches and campsites, as well as places

where you can have a tasty meal. But the Krutynia Trail is not only

nature. Following it, it is worth stopping a few times and also looking

at the memories of history. From the fortified settlement of the Old

Prussian tribe of Galindians in Zyndaki, through the Old Believers’

monastery in Wojnowo, to the shelters and fortifications from World

War I and World War II in Ruciane-Nida. The historic Guzianka water

gate is also very impressive.

Whoever comes to Krutynia once, will come back many times.

Stunning greenery, birds singing, the ethereal smell of the forest and

soothing peace and quiet on less frequented sections of the trail.

68 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Recommended

more info: https://kajaki-krutynia.pl/

Spychowo-Zgon

10.5 km long, 3 hours

Zgon-Krutyń

approx. 12.5 km, 4-5 h

The participants of the canoeing trip, together with the canoes, are

transported by buses from Stanica Wodna in Krutynia to Spychów to

the start of the kayaking trip.

The episode begins with Spychowska Struga (here the name of

Krutynia is adopted), which soon flows into Lake Spychowskie.

Keeping to the left side of the lake, we again enter Spychowska

Struga (approx. 4km long), which widens more and more and after a

few kilometers turns into the bay of Lake Zdrużno. Here we stick to

the right bank and, flowing through a narrow isthmus, we get to the

lake. Uplik. It is a very narrow lake with forested shores. After a few

kilometers we reach Lake Wet and the village of Zgon (from chasing

cattle). Keeping to the right, we enter the bay where Stanica Wodna

PTTK in Zgon is located, where, after telephone information, we wait

for the transfer to Krutynia.

Price (transport is included in the price of renting a kayak):

Single kayak: 100 PLN

Double kayak: 110 PLN

Triple kayak: 120 PLN

Canoe: 130 PLN

The participants of the canoeing trip, together with the canoes, are

transported by buses from Stanica Wodna in Krutynia to the hostel in

Zgon for the start of the trip.

There is probably the most difficult stage ahead of us, so I do not

recommend it to beginner canoeists. On Lake Mokre there is often a

high wave, which makes swimming very difficult. We stick to the right

side and swim about 7km (there is a wild camping site in the middle).

We reach the lock between Lakes Mokre and Krutyński. After moving

the kayak, we continue sailing on Lake Krutyński until we reach the

Krutynia River. Just a few more turns and we reach the PTTK

riverside hostel in Krutynia.

Price (transport is included in the price of renting a kayak):

1-seater kayak: 60 PLN

2-seater kayak: 80 PLN

3-seater kayak: 90 PLN

Canoe: 100 PLN

69 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND








Marcin Nalepka

CASTLES WITH THE TATRA MOUNTAINS

IN THE BACKGROUND

VISIT:

www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka

I'm 40. Photographing is an interesting way for me to spend my free time. I mainly photograph landscapes, but family

photography is also familiar to me. In the pictures I try to show images of interesting places against the natural background

of the Tatra Mountains, including castles and churches. I live in a small town about 100 km in a straight line from the

mountains, so most of the photos were taken from this distance. I use a telephoto lens for photography, which results in

the effect that the mountains are very close. I am from Lesser Poland, hence the idea for castles with the Tatras in the

background.

I also invite you to FB page: Marcin Nalepka Fotografia where you can find more of my photos.

Pictures taken from a distance to the Tatra Mountains:

Castle in Czorsztyn - approx. 30km

Castle in Niedzica - approx. 30km

The castle in Nowy Wiśnicz - approx. 90km

Wawel Castle - approx. 100km

Tenczyn Castle in Rudno - approx. 115km

Castle in Niepołomice approx. -105km

76 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


ROOF

& CASA

HOME AND DECOR

view on Tatra Mountains

via The Royal Castle at the Wawel Hill Kraków

Wawel is a limestone hill in the centre of Kraków upon the Vistula River with a complex of impressive historical monuments of unique

historical and artistic values. This extraordinary sanctuary determines the Poles' identity, is their national and cultural symbol.



The Royal Castle at the

Wawel Hill

approximately 100km from Tatra Mountains

The Wawel Royal Castle and the Wawel Hill

constitute the most historically and culturally

important site in Po land.

For centuries the residence of the kings of

Poland and the symbol of Polish statehood,

the Castle is now one of the country's

premier art museums. Established in 1930,

the museum encompasses ten curatorial

departments responsible for collections of

paintings, including an important collection

of Italian Renaissance paintings, prints,

sculpture, textiles, among them the

Sigismund II Augustus tapestry collection,

goldsmith’s work, arms and armor, ceramics,

Meissen porcelain, and period furniture. The

museum’s holdings in oriental art include the

largest collection of Ottoman tents in

Europe. With seven specialized conservation

studios, the museum is also an important

center for the conservation of works of art.

Over one million visitors tour the Castle's

permanent collections and temporary

exhibitions each year, while an estimated

two million visit the Wawel Hill. The Castle’s

permanent exhibitions recreate the

appearance of the royal residence in the

Renaissance and Baroque eras.

About 20,000 schoolchildren yearly

participate in dedicated museum lessons. In

addition, many children at tend workshops

and take part in academic and artistic

competitions.

The Wawel Royal Castle also hosts a lively

program of events including symphonic and

chamber music concerts and performances

of opera and courtly dance.

The visitor center holds cafés, shops, and

other visitor services.

Photo: Marcin Nalepka

www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka

79 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND



Castle in Nowy Wiśnicz

(New Wiśnicz)

approximately 90km from Tatra Mountains

Castle in Nowy Wiśnicz is the largest

preserved Baroque fortified residence in

Poland.

The huge castle in Wiśnicz is visible from

afar. This medieval building after alterations

by Piotr Kmita in the 16th century was

transformed into a renaissance residence.

Further restructuring works were ordered by

Stanislaus Lubomirski after the year 1615

when additional fortifications with five

bastions were added to the castle. Also at

this time, eighty cannons were placed on the

new fortifications. As a result, Wiśnicz Castle

became one of the most powerful

strongholds in Poland. The castle in spite of

its fortifications did not withstand the

strength of the Swedish army which invaded

Poland in the period now known as the

“Potop” (flood). At that time one hundred

and fifty wagonloads of booty were taken

out of the castle. In the renovated interiors

there is an exhibition recounting the history

of the castle, a collection of copper vessels,

and a collection of models of Polish castles

plus a sarcophagus of Stanislaus Lubomirski

Photo: Marcin Nalepka

www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka

81 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND



Czorsztyn

approximately 30km from Tatra Mountains

The castle was located on the left bank of

the Dunajec, on a hill falling down steep

slopes towards the river. They protected the

building from all sides except the north-east,

where the approach was more gentle and

where the outer bailey developed later.

The original buildings from the second half

of the 13th century, occupying the top of the

hill, were wood and earth. Probably at the

end of the 13th or the beginning of the 14th

century a free-standing cylindrical tower

with a diameter of 10 meters and a wall

thickness at the base of 3.5 meters was

erected from unworked limestone in the

northern part of the castle. Initially, it

probably created a system of fortifications

together with earth and wood fortifications.

Interestingly, it was not built like a typical

bergfried at the culmination of the hill, but

slightly lower, on the edge of the rock, so it

could defend the approach to the hill.

The castle has been preserved in the form of

a ruin with the main element in the form of a

seventeenth century, foursided tower. After

carrying out conservation works in recent

years, it is now open to visitors.

Photo: Marcin Nalepka

www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka

83 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND



Tenczyn Castle in Rudno

approximately 115 km from Tatra Mountains

Tenczyn Castle, also known as Tęczyn Castle, is

a medieval castle in the village of Rudno in the

Polish Jura, Poland. It was built as a seat of the

powerful Tęczyński family. The castle fell into

disrepair during the Deluge in mid-17th century,

after being pillaged and burned by Swedish-

Brandenburgian forces looking for the Polish

Crown Jewels and rumored treasures of the

Tęczyński family. Subsequently rebuilt, it again

fell into disrepair after a major fire in the mid-

18th century and remains in that state to this

day.

The castle stands on the remnants of a

Permian period lava stream, the highest hill of

Garb Tenczyński (Castle Hill), which is 411 m

above the sea level.

The first mention of the stronghold in writing

is dated to 24 September 1308, when King

Władysław I the Elbow-high, who was hunting

in the woods around Thanczin, issued a diploma

to the Cistercian monastery in Sulejów. It is

believed that the first wooden castle structure

was erected around 1319 by Jan Nawój of

Morawica, Castellan of Cracow.

After the fire in 1768, the structure

increasingly fell into disrepair. In 1783, the

remains of Jan Magnus Tęczyński were moved

from the castle chapel to a new tomb in St.

Catherine's Church in Tenczynek. In 1816, the

castle became the property of the Potocki

family and remained in their hands until the

outbreak of World War II in 1939.

Photo: Marcin Nalepka

www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka

85 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND



The Royal Castle

in Niepołomice

approximately 105km from Tatra Mountains

The castle in Niepołomice began as one of

many fortifications throughout Małopolska

initiated by King Kazimierz the Great in the

14th century, however this one soon became

his favourite residence which he used as a

retreat from the royal seat in Kraków.

Kazimierz wasn’t the only king to favour the

isolated outpost however, as his successors all

invested themselves in further embellishing and

expanding the castle into a magnificent royal

residence where much time was spent. The

castle’s heyday came during the rule of

Władysław Jagiełło who held meetings of the

royal council here, often entertaining foreign

dignitaries and passing official court

judgements from Niepołomice rather than

Wawel. It was also from here that the famous

royal hunts set out, bringing back the big game

trophies of bison, bears and boars that would

line the castle halls. In the mid-16th century

King Zygmunt August rebuilt the residence on

the model of contemporary Renaissance

palaces – the appearance of which has been

restored today. The ‘Second Wawel’ (as it was

known) maintained its splendour for another

hundred years before the Swedish deluge

brought an end to its golden age and, along

with the country, the castle gradually fell into

ruin during Poland’s eras of partition and

occupation.

A long and costly reconstruction began in 1991

and was finally completed in 2007. Today the

castle is a multi-functional space hosting

several museum exhibits, an excellent

restaurant, 3-star boutique hotel, spa and

conference facilities. Despite all that however,

the space retains its authentic historical

character. Perfect for a family outing, across

from the Castle entrance is a park with a large

playground, Queen Bona's picturesque gardens

lie beside, and the Wisła River flows just

beyond it

Photo: Marcin Nalepka

www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka

87 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Cycling in Małopolska Beskid

Sądecki Part 2 www.odkryjbeskid.pl

www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid


Sleep. Eat. Go cycling. Repeat!

Text, graphics and description: Patrycja Furca, Maciej Iwan (Facebook:

Koło Południa), Konrad Rogoziński, Grzegorz Ślęczek

(www.turbobikes.pl).

photos: Konrad Rogoziński

cyclists: Patrycja Furca and Łukasz Świętach

Health has many names, one of which is cycling and bicycle touring. It

is widely known that regular physical activity brings positive effects.

Burning fat, improving efficiency, reducing stress, better sleep, and

well-being are just some of them.

Unfortunately, most people associate the bike with all-day weekend

trips and ride sporadically... It doesn't have to be that way! Thanks to

the bicycle paths which in recent years have grown up in the Nowy

Sącz region like mushrooms after the rain, our two-tracks can

accompany us every day during commuting to work or afternoon rides.

For example, the distance by the bicycle path from the market square

in Nowy Sącz to "Bobrowisko" (the beaver farm) in Stary Sącz we can

cover back and forth in less than 1.5 hours at a recreational pace. This

means that we force the body to exercise, admire the panorama of the

Beskid Sądecki, relax the exhausted mind, and observe the wild fauna

and flora in "Bobrowisko" during the layover. And all of that for free!

In addition, we get something priceless that each of us dreams of -

health!

Live slowly! Ride fast!

In the life of almost every cycling enthusiast, there comes a moment

when recreational riding begins to turn into something more

professional. What does more professional mean? We start to ride

faster and farther, we look for information on the internet forums on

the right outfit, accessories and riding technique, so we become more

aware of what we are doing. Therefore, at this point, it is worth

installing a sports application on your smartphone (currently, after the

fall of Endomondo, Strava is the leader among cyclists) or getting an

activity monitor or a meter, thanks to which we will be able to save

and analyse our achievements. This will give us a picture of how many

kilometres we have travelled, what was the sum of the altitude

difference, how much energy we have used and whether we are

making any progress. A big advantage will be the addition of data from

the heart rate monitor to our achievements as it will allow more

insightful information about our condition.

Krakow

Warszawa

Beskid Sądecki

Rzeszów

www.bit.ly/velomaps

www.odkryjbeskid.pl

www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid

Sleep. Eat. Go cycling. Repeat!

In the entire cycling world, it is all about the balance between

sleep, proper diet and training. In simple terms, this means

that in addition to cycling, we should also have the right

amount of sleep and a healthy diet that will allow us to

maintain balance in our body and give us a chance to break

new boundaries. Let's start taking care of ourselves today!

So what if not the best rider – at least looks great!

As it is said - there is nothing that makes us real cyclists more than

professional, colourful clothing! But we deny these rumours! In cycling

outfits, the most important thing is mobility and thermal comfort.

They don't have to be brand-name, tight-fitting outfits. The most

important thing is to dress in layers. During long climbs, we cannot

overheat while during the descents it is necessary to have something

to put on, not to catch a chill - after all, we care about our health! The

only rule that must be strictly followed is to avoid cotton clothes as

they dry very slowly after sweating and instead of heating, might cool

the body even more. A good solution includes, therefore, all kinds of

synthetic materials such as polyester, polyamide, elastane and Lycra

photo: Konrad Rogoziński

89 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Road 1

Two ranges - a classic MTB expedition along the ridges of the

Beskid Sądecki, i.e. from Krynica to Stary Sącz along the Jaworzyna

and Radziejowa ranges

Czarny Potok / Krynica - Jaworzyna - Hala Łabowska - Cyrla - Rytro

- Przehyba (blue trail) and downhill along the yellow trail to Stary

Sącz (return to Krynica by train)

About 60 km, 6 hours ride, 2,200 m of climbs

Paśniki: Jaworzyna 4 km. Hala Łabowska 16 km, Cyrla 25 km, Rytro

29 km, Przehyba 40 km

Description of the route / for whom

Two hearty trips, long ridge sections, varied surface, a

descent from Przehyba (the best flow in the Nowy Sącz

region) for a dessert and guaranteed unforgettable views.

It is an adventure for everyone who wants to prove

themselves. A mountain bike with front suspension is enough

to cycle this route. Better equipment will certainly improve

comfort, especially on descents, which you certainly will not

miss here. This is not a trip for the beginners, even on e-

bikes. It requires basic mountaineering skills and MTB

training. The pavements include stony forest paths, dirt

paths and asphalt roads for relax, at the end of the route, on

the way to Stary Sącz. There are two challenging climbs on

the route. The first to Jaworzyna from the Czarny Potok

valley, the second to Przehyba from Rytro. If you like the

cuisine in mountain lodges, it's not worth taking too many

supplies in your backpack. We will pass some perfect places

to rest and regenerate. The first section of the route to

Rytro is a ride in the Beskid climate, stones, forest and a

view from time to time☺ The descent is a technically nondemanding

section along the access road to Cyrla shelter.

From Rytro, we leave for the Radziejowa range along the

blue trail. It is worth keeping some energy at the end of the

trip because the ride down the yellow trail to Przysietnica is

the essence of cycling fun. It is worth setting off on the

route early so that you can catch the afternoon train back to

Krynica.

Description for electric bikes:

The very essence of MTB in the old, classic style, i.e. a long

journey that will allow you to understand why you bought or

rented an e-bike.

Charging places: Make sure to plan a stop to feed yourself and

the bike. With a 500 Wh battery, you should have no problem

with reaching Rytro. If you don't like stops in the valley, you can

recharge on Cyrla. (In the shelter at Hala Łabowska, charging is

problematic – there is no access to the power grid).

Why is it worth taking this route? For the views, the fun of

being in the mountains itself, to check your skills and abilities

and for the gastronomic flavours of the shelter's cuisine.

Description for analog bikes:

Fortunately, there are several shelters along the way so we

can replace some of the lost calories. Long climbs will surely

be remembered, but a light bike will give you more fun when

descending from Przehyba

photo: Konrad Rogoziński

90 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


photo: Konrad Rogoziński

91 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Road 2 | Tourist Muszynska Loop

Information on the legibility of route markings

Why is it worth taking this route?

You will have the opportunity to visit unique, wooden Orthodox

churches

from the UNESCO list.

The route on the section Muszyna-Dubne and Wojkowa-Muszyna is very

well marked both in terms of legibility and the number of signs. The forest

section of Dubne-Wojkowa, due to the windbreaks from the beginning of

2019 and forest works, requires the cyclist to pay more attention. In the

section from the junction behind Wojkowa with the route to Powroźnik -

Muszyna, the trail coincides with the Cross-Border Bicycle Trail.

You will ride one of the wildest mountain routes in the Polish Beskids

(Leluchowskie Mountains).

You will ride through two beautiful river valleys, the Poprad and the

Muszynka river valleys.

Tourist Muszynska Loop is mainly a red cycling trail, forming loops

around Muszyna. It runs through Muszyna, Leluchów, Dubne, Wojkowa

and Powroźnik.

Let's go!

We can start the route at the railway station in Muszyna, at ul.

Piłsudskiego. We can get there by train or by car. For larger

vehicles, I recommend parking at ul. Zazamcze, about 3 km from

the railway station. Then we go south along the asphalt road,

towards the border crossing in Leluchów. Before the first more

serious, long and steep ascents, you can stop at the "limestone"

mineral water spring to replenish fluids and supplies for the road.

On the trail of wooden churches.

After 7.5 kilometres of quite tiring route we reach Leluchów. We

go straight ahead until the border crossing. Later, after a few

dozen meters, we turn left at the marketplace that is often

organized here. While in the village, it is worth going up the hill

and visiting St. Dimitri Church. Then, we continue down the

asphalt road, along the state border, to the village of Dubne. Here

we have another church worth attention - St. Michael the

Archangel's Church. Near the church, picturesque estates with

interesting architecture. We follow the road to the end and enter

the forest. At this point, periodically (during tree logging),

considerable difficulties may occur (after rainfall, a lot of mud).

This is also a place of the greatest elevation, reaching the highest

point of the route.

photo: Patrycja Furca

Then a nice ride down, along a wide forest road. Be careful at its

end, before you reach mountain meadows. The trail turns at 90°

here and runs steeply down at the edge of the forest. Another

church in Wojkowa - St. Kosma and Damian's Church, with an

interesting bell tower. Further along the asphalt road, we reach the

intersection with the Powroźnik -Tylicz road. We turn left towards

Powroźnik. Before the railway crossing, we turn left again to visit

the next church - St. Jacob's Church. Right next to it, there is a

pump room with a gazebo and a small park. Then, keeping to the

road signs, we reach the provincial road 971. Then, we cycle

towards Muszyna. After 1.2 km, we turn right, through the railway

crossing and then over the bridge on the Muszynka. After that, we

turn left to find the bicycle path leading to Muszyna itself. On the

way, in front of the Tower, we have MOR. You can also refill water

from Anna spring here. From there, we get to the railway station

over the bridge (turning left), right behind it, under the railway

bridge. If we left the bus on ul. Zazamcze, we need to turn right

twice and after cycling a few hundred meters, we are there

92 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Information on the legibility of route markings

The route on the section Muszyna-Dubne and Wojkowa-Muszyna is very well

marked both in terms of legibility and the number of signs. The forest section

of Dubne-Wojkowa, due to the windbreaks from the beginning of 2019 and

forest works, requires the cyclist to pay more attention. In the section from the

junction behind Wojkowa with the route to Powroźnik - Muszyna, the trail

coincides with the Cross-Border Bicycle Trail.

photo: Konrad Rogoziński

93 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Road 3 | Two ranges

- the crown of MTB

From Krynica to Stary Sącz along Jaworzyna and Radziejowa ranges

Czarny Potok / Krynica - Jaworzyna - Hala Łabowska - Cyrla - Rytro -

Przehyba (blue trail) and downhill along the yellow trail to Stary Sącz

(return by train)

About 60km, 6 hours ride, 2,200m of climbs

Paśniki: Jaworzyna 4km. Hala Łabowska 16km, Cyrla 25km, Rytro

29km, Przehyba 40km

Route description

Two hearty trips, long ridge sections, varied surface, a descent

from Przehyba (the best flow in the Nowy Sącz region) for a

dessert and guaranteed unforgettable views.

It is an adventure for everyone who wants to prove themselves. A

mountain bike with front suspension is enough to cycle this route.

Better equipment will certainly improve the comfort of the ride,

especially on descents, which you certainly will not miss here.

This is not a trip for the beginners, even on an electric bike. It

requires basic mountaineering skills and MTB training. The

pavements include stony forest paths, dirt paths and asphalt

roads for relaxing, at the end of the route, on the way to Stary

Sącz.

There are two challenging climbs on the route. The first to

Jaworzyna from the Czarny Potok valley, the second to Przehyba

from Rytro.

Description for electric bikes:

The very essence of MTB in the old classic style, i.e. a perfect long trip

that will allow you to understand what you are buying or renting an

electrician for. Two hearty trips, long ridge sections, varied surface and

a downhill ride from Przehyba (the best flow in the Nowy Sącz region)

for a dessert. Unforgettable views guaranteed.

Charging places: Probably you won't make it without a stop to feed

yourself and the bike. With a 500 Wh battery, you should have no

problem with reaching Rytro. If you don't like valley stops, you can

recharge your electric bike on Cyrla. Attention! Due to the lack of access

to the power grid, charging in the shelter at Hala Łabowska is

problematic.

If you like the cuisine in mountain lodges, it's not worth taking

too many supplies in your backpack. On the way, we will pass

some perfect places to rest and regenerate.

The first section of the route to Rytro is a ride in the Beskid

climate: stones, forest and views from time to time. The descent

is a technically non-demanding section along the access road to

Cyrla shelter. From Rytro, we leave for the Radziejowa range

along the blue trail. It is worth keeping some energy at the end of

the trip because the ride down the yellow trail to Przysietnica is

the essence of cycling fun. It is worth setting off on the route

early so that you can catch the afternoon train back to Krynica.

Why is it worth taking this route? For the views, the fun of being

in the mountains itself, to check your skills and abilities and for

the gastronomic flavours of the shelter's cuisine.

94 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Description for analog bikes:

Fortunately, there are several shelters along the way so we can replace some of the lost calories. Long climbs

will surely be remembered. A light bike will give you more fun during downhill ride from Przehyba.

photo: Konrad Rogoziński

95 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND



photo: Konrad Rogoziński

www.odkryjbeskid.pl

www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid



photo: Konrad Rogoziński

www.odkryjbeskid.pl

www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid


Jan Kochanowski Museum

Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl

The Museum, devoted to Renaissance poet Jan Kochanowski, is located in a classical 19th century manor house called Jabłonowski

(designed by Jakub Kubicki), and is surrounded by a beautiful, English-style park. The exhibition is displayed across six halls, with items

presenting the life and work of the poet and father of national Polish literature. The Renaissance material items shown (such as

furniture, ceramics and an engagement ring) form a background to the creative figure of Jan Kochanowski and his literary works. In

addition, collected works of Polish poets and writers of the era illustrate the development of Polish art and culture in the 16th century.

Woodcut scenes of cities depict the writer’s foreign travels and excursions, and excerpts from his various works, displayed in the

exhibition halls, emphasise the values of his life and his preoccupation with the richness of language.

The park has a neo-Gothic chapel, and in the place where once stood the famous lime tree mentioned in the poet’s works, there now

stands a commemorative obelisk. Erected in 1980, a bronze statue of Jan Kochanowski welcomes the visitors to the house. Each June,

the town of Czarnolas hosts events such as 'Days of Jan Kochanowski's Works', 'Czarnolas Renaissance Days' and 'Czarnolas

Saturdays'.

Branch of the Jacek Malczewski Museum in Radom.

Location: approximately 110 km south of Warsaw.

Access by private transport.

Czarnolas

26-720 Warszawa

State: MAZOWIECKIE

Latitude: 52.2296756 Longitude: 21.0122287

100 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


The exhibition presents the life

and work of the poet and father

of national Polish literature.

text source: culture.pl

Poet, translator and playwright. Born 1530 in Sycyna, died 1584

in Lublin. The greatest Polish and a major European Renaissance

man of letters whose poetic genius was the first of such

brilliance in Poland and remained the only one until the explosion

of talent in Romanticism.

Jan Kochanowski, of the noble clan of Korwin, was born in

Sycyna. The exact date – day and month – is unknown. He was a

son of Piotr Kochanowski, Sandomierz lawyer and judge, and

Anna Białaczowska. According to Julian Krzyżanowski, the

distinguished historian of literature whose sources must have

been credible, Jan's father was a miser and a scrooge. It must

have been the circumstances that have forced him to be that. A

squire of average means, he had to support a particularly large

family, Jan having had eleven brothers and sisters. Two of his

brothers, Mikołaj and Andrzej, also tried their hand in literature,

though their talent and fame were nowhere near those of Jan's.

Andrzej is noted in the history of literature mostly for his

translation of Vergil's Aeneid, while Mikołaj is remembered for

his rendering of Plutarch's Moralia.

To make a career, a nobleman of medium wealth had to follow

the path leading through learning and magnate courts, and so in

1544 Kochanowski was admitted to the liberal arts department

at the Krakow Academy. Although he was ultimately not to earn

an academic degree, he found himself in one of Europe's major

centres of humanism. He then continued his studies in Królewiec

and Padua. While in Królewiec (in 1551-52 and 1555-56), he was

associated with the court of Albrecht, the Prussian duke and

Polish senator, his likely sponsor. Incidentally, Albrecht was a

major and mighty protector of the Polish Reformation.

Kochanowski stayed in Padua three times, in 1552-55, 1556-57

and 1558-59, studying under such distinguished humanists as

Francesco Robortello and Bernardino Tomitano. He made friends

with Łukasz Górnicki, Stanisław Porębski and Andrzej Nidecki,

the leading Polish humanists, and stayed friends with them after

his return to Poland. More importantly, though, he greatly

expanded his classical education, absorbing Renaissance ideas,

Italy being their birthplace and leading centre. Upon return from

his last stay in Padua, he travelled across France and Germany,

meeting in France Pierre Ronsard, the greatest poet of French

Renaissance and champion of vernacular literature.

Upon his return to Poland in 1559, Kochanowski started the

career of a courtier at eminent aristocratic families, such as the

Tarnowskis, the Tęczyńskis and the Firlejs.

Lament 1

Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl

All Heraclitus' tears, all threnodies

And plaintive dirges of Simonides,

All keens and slow airs in the world, all griefs,

Wrung hands, wet eyes, laments and epitaphs,

All, all assemble, come from every quarter,

Help me to mourn my small girl, my dear daughter,

Whom cruel Death tore up with such wild force

Out of my life, it left me no recourse.

So the snake, when he finds a hidden nest

Of fledgling nightingales, rears and strikes fast

Repeatedly, while the poor mother bird

Tries to distract him with a fierce, absurd

Fluttering — but in vain! the venomous tongue

Darts, and she must retreat on ruffled wing.

"You weep in vain," my friends will say. But then,

What is not in vain, by God, in lives of men?

All is in vain! We play at blindman's buff

Until hard edges break into our path.

Man's life is error. Where, then, is relief?

In shedding tears or wrestling down my grief?

From the Stanisław Barańczak-Seamus Heaney translation, p. 3.

101 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


With Bishop Piotr Myszkowski's backing, he was appointed

courtier and secretary at the royal court of Sigismund-August in

1563. His attitude to the king was ambivalent, his writings

revealing both approval and disappointment; the latter may have

been triggered by inadequate development of his career. He

accompanied the king during the military maneuvers in Lithuania

in 1567, targeted against Ivan the Terrible, and at the Sejm

proceedings in Lublin when the Union of Lublin was reached

(1568, 1569). After the death of Sigismund-August, Kochanowski

sided with Henri Valois, taking part in his coronation in 1573.

After the king's shameful flight from Poland, his disappointment

prompted him to give up courtly life. Although he did not

consider his courtier career particularly successful, he finished it

as a wealthy man, owing in part to the then quite common

practice of lay ecclesiastical career. The backing of Bishop Piotr

Myszkowski had helped Kochanowski to become a parish priest

in Poznań and Zwoleń. He paid chaplains to do pastoral work for

him, while he earned profit by collecting tithes from town land

and noble villages. He parted with the parish priesthood when he

gave up the courtier career. Though he never returned to the

royal court, he approved of Stefan Batory and his political

conceptions.

He settled in Czarnolas, his father's property, and married

Dorota Podlodowska in 1575. Of the six daughters she bore him,

three died in infancy. The only son was born after Kochanowski's

death.

Despite the tragedy of losing children, life in Czarnolas was

peaceful and harmonious. This found reflection in Kochanowski's

work, rich and mature in those years. The poet died a sudden

death at the age of 54, his creative powers at their peak. He

suffered a heart attack in Lublin, where he had arrived hopeful for

king's assistance with the case of his wife's brother who had been

murdered in Turkey.

The funeral, which took place in Lublin, was attended by many

secular and Church dignitaries as well as by king Stefan Batory.

Kochanowski was laid to rest in the chapel of the Zwoleń church,

next to his parents. The tombstone with his effigy is still there.

Renaissance culture flourished in Krakow, at magnate courts and,

more than anywhere, in Italy in Kochanowski's times. A reaction to

dogmatic Middle Ages, Renaissance humanism evoked the

standards of antique culture and propounded freedom of human

reason and the right to intellectual independence in studying the

world. Priority was given to man who was unrestricted and

aspired to the Hellenistic ideal of harmony. Humanism's top

maxim 'homo sum, a me alienum esse puto' ('I am a human being,

so nothing human is strange to me') expressed affirmation of all

areas of human existence: the spiritual, the corporeal, and the

social. Contrary to the medieval ideal of asceticism, man was

given the right to happiness, yet was expected to aspire to

perfection.

Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl

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life &

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The Renaissance opposition to medieval dogmas and insistence

on independent pursuit of truth created a climate conducive to

the reformatory movement in the Church. The movement

attacked the Church for being dogmatic and intellectually

petrified; law-abiding Catholics attacked it for greed, unjustified

riches and chaplains' inappropriate lifestyle. This and the sense

of threat to doctrine and authority made Pope Paul III convene a

Council in Trent. Debating intermittently in 1545-63, the Council

was to work out unambiguous interpretations of the Catholic

doctrine and propose an organizational reform of the Church.

The Reformation flourished in Poland, too, with its numerous

Calvinist and Lutheran churches doing well even after king

Sigismund-August adopted the decisions of the Council of Trent.

The struggle against the intellectual as well as

economic domination of the Church was closely

related to the powerful nobility movement called

'the execution of rights'. It was at its peak when

Kochanowski returned from Padua. The nobility, its

wealth rising, education improving and privileges

growing, fought to dominate the state. Access to

the sea gained after the defeat of the Teutonic

Order opened to it major European trade routes.

Intellectual and religious commotion at magnate

courts and at reformed churches as well as the

highly popular political writings of Łukasz Górnicki,

Andrzej Frycz-Modrzewski, Stanisław Orzechowski

Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl


life &

poetry

and others raised common interest in political and social matters. Increasingly conscious of

its power, the nobility aimed to reduce royal prerogatives and domination of the magnates

and the Church, and managed to abolish church courts and to considerably reduce property

privileges due to royal endowments for aristocratic families and Church dignitaries.

In accordance with the principle 'homo sum...', all the major themes of the time found

reflection in Kochanowski's work, from philosophical musings over human life to political

and social issues to scenes from court and gentry life to stories shared at meals.

Kochanowski had started to write in Italy, using sophisticated Latin to create odes, songs,

elegies and epigrams. Not everything survived; whatever did was published with his later

Latin works in Kraków in 1584 as Elegiarum libri IV.

The vast majority of his work is, however, in Polish. His conscious choice, it agreed with the

Renaissance trend to write in vernacular and caused the Polish language to undergo a

quality change in mere thirty years. The Polish of Kochanowski and the later Polish is

different from what it was before. There had never been such a profound linguistic

revolution in Polish history. Kochanowski was aware of his role in literature and of the role

of a poet. He was the first to formulate the ethos of the artist whose talent, a gift from

God, is both a privilege, a duty, and a suffering.

Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl

He expressed it most forcefully in the poem Muza(The Muse), his literary manifesto dating

probably from ca. 1570 and professing faith in the immortality of his poetry, a sense of a

unique mission and of greatness which makes one responsible to the world and lonely at

the summit. The poem pays a tribute to Bishop Piotr Myszkowski, who generously

supported the poet, enabling him to work unencumbered, and expresses gratitude for the

patronage of the enlightened and the wealthy who contribute to the development of

culture. Indeed, the institution of patronage was known before, but it flourished

particularly well in the Renaissance and was maintained in the following centuries.

One of Kochanowski's earliest Polish-language works was his hymn Czego Chcesz Od Nas

Panie Za Twe Hojne Dary (What wilt thou from us, O Lord, for thy generous gifts?). Some

sources suggest it was written before Kochanowski returned to Poland and was sent from

Paris. As a poetic form, the hymn was common in the Middle Ages. Addressed to God or a

saint, it expressed subjection, conveyed a sense of insignificance of mortal beings and

pleaded for intercession. Kochanowski's hymn is a beautiful expression of man's gratitude

to the Creator for the beauty and harmony of the world. The poet's God is not a strict,

punishing Father, but a Big Artist who has made the riches of Nature and the beauty of all

beings. It was noted that such God was not really attributable to a specific religion, his

image having no Catholic-specific features. The hymn, written in thirteen-syllable, rigorous

and at the same time natural and melodious verse, became very popular and made it to

Catholic and Protestant songbooks alike.

In his court period Kochanowski started to write Fraszki

(Trifles), minor poems with sharp points, their tradition

going back to antique epigrams and Anacreontics.

Continuing to write them throughout his life, he covered

a vast spectrum of themes, from philosophical musings,

praise of court and gentry life, the beauty of women,

portraits of friends and acquaintances to anecdotes

from social life. Fraszki provide a superb, vivid image of

the customs and lifestyle of the time, their sharp and

succinct language being the only area where the poet

ventured a little bit of noble bawdiness.

Kochanowski mostly wrote narrative poems in his court

period. Highly diverse, they ranged from incidental

poems to political and social essays. Among the former

stand out the epitaths O Śmierci Jana Tarnowskiego

(On the Death of Jan Tarnowski) and Pamiątka

Wszytkimi Cnotami Hojnie Obdarzonemu Janowi

Baptyscie Na Tęczynie (In Memory of Jan Baptysta of

Tęczyn, Generously Endowed with All Virtues).

Incidental poems, dedicated to statesmen whom

Kochanowski truly respected, were not intended as

flattery, but emphasized virtues such as patriotism,

valiance, wisdom, integrity and ability to sustain

friendship.

The funny poem Zuzanna Przypisane Jej M. Paniej

Elżbiecie Z Szydłowca(Zuzanna, Ascribed to the

Honourable Elżbieta of Szydłowiec) is quite a perverse

praise of woman's virtue. Broda (The Beard) is an

argument for supremacy between feminine virtue and

moustache.

Kochanowski's major contribution to Polish culture was

Psałterz Dawidów (David's Psalter). Not so much a

translation as a free paraphrase of the Biblical Book of

Psalms, it took the poet many years to complete and

involved some serious philological studies of various

Greek and Latin translations. Written in varied and rich

verse, it contains philosophical and personal themes

alongside the core religious aspect.

The Psalms had been paraphrased before (for instance

by Mikołaj Rej), but it was owing to Kochanowski that

they gained a perfect Renaissance form and expressed

the Renaissance concept of God who transcends

religions. They have consequently become prayer

literature recognized by Catholics and Protestants alike,

especially after the accomplished composer Mikołaj

Gomółka wrote music to them in 1580 under the title of

Melodie Na Psałterz Polski (Melodies to the Polish

Psalter).

Kochanowski's lyrical talent manifested itself best in

Pieśni (The Songs). He wrote them throughout his life,

and they dominated his work in Czarnolas. After all,

landowner's life was particularly close to the ideals of

Horace's 'golden measure', and Horace was for

Kochanowski a role model both in terms of outlook on

life and poetry

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- STRAWBERRIES BY KAMILA ROSIŃSKA -

TRANSLATION: LIBRES, CONSULTATION: AMBER ACOSTA

STRAWBERRY

It was a beautiful, sunny day and the azure sky stretched

majestically over the Old Mill Valley. The surface of Lake of

Truth, delicately ruffled by the gusts of wind, sparkled in the

gentle rays. The summer breeze danced between the

shutters, which squeaked rhythmically as they surrendered

to it.

Suddenly, there was a knock on the window. Sisters Tosia and Zosia ran

out onto the porch of the old mill, thinking that it must be an unexpected

guest. However, there was nobody.

Instead, there was a large wicker basket with strawberries on the

doorstep.

- They look so tasty... I guess no one will be angry if I try one of them?

Tosia said. So she did as she thought, and instantly she turned into a red,

tiny strawberry that fell into the basket, vanishing among the other fruits.

- Oh no! - Zosia exclaimed, scared.

- Tosia?! Tosia! The girl kept calling, but instead of her sister, there was a

wicker basket in front of her, filled to the brim with juicy strawberries,

shimmering in the sun.

- Which of you is my Tosia? How do I recognize you, little sister? The

crying girl continued to call.

A downy old Owl saw the whole incident from her tree.

- Hoo-hoo-hooooo, don't cry baby. Before the sun goes down behind Lake

of Truth, you and your sister will see each other again. Having this said,

the Owl turned its old, feathered head and sprang to flight majestically,

flapping its great wings.

- Cold comfort - Zosia snorted - I think I have to take you home as

someone else might be tempted and accidentally eat my little Tosia -

Zosia said quietly, picking up the basket with strawberries.

But what's that?! Boom!!!

Zosia fell stumbling over the threshold, and all the strawberries rolled

down the wooden floor of the mill. The girl picked them up quickly and

gently set the basket on the table.

"I have to leave you here for a while," she said and ran to her room to

prepare a safe place for the strawberries.

In the old chest by the window, there was a beautifully embroidered

blanket that Zosia got from her grandmother and which she liked very

much. The girl lay down next to the chest for a moment. How to recognize

a little sister in the crowd of other fruits? - Zosia wondered. And what if

she fails to do so before the strawberries begin to lose their freshness?

The breeze blowing through the open window whipped her cheeks, and it

felt so cosy and warm under the blanket that, despite her worries, she fell

asleep quickly.

The setting sun had not touched the surface of the lake yet when a

raven flew into the room. He landed next to the basket of strawberries

and looked at it for a moment as if he wanted to choose the juiciest

and most appetising one.

Sisterly instinct made Zosia sense the threat. She quickly opened her

eyes, and when she saw the huge black bird with a strawberry in its

beak, her heart started to toll, just like a Sunday mass bell.

- No! She managed to scream through a lump in her throat.

The frightened raven pulled out and flew out of the window without

letting the strawberry out of its beak.

Terrified, Zosia ran out outside the mill, looking shaky as the raven

would head over the surface of Lake of Truth. She felt that the bird

unmistakably chose the strawberry that was closest to her heart and

now, he was flying over the lake, with her sister in its beak.

Suddenly, the flight of the raven was interrupted. A feathered ball,

coming from the side of the setting sun, hit him hard. It was a falcon

that had already given up hope to eat something for dinner - but then

it seized the raven in its claws.

The strawberry fell from his beak and gently splashed against the

surface of the lake.

Zosia jumped and started her reckless run, hoping to catch the

strawberry - especially that the water was very shallow at the shore

where the fruit had fallen.

She ran to the lake where, to her surprise, she saw her sister's head

rising above the surface, greedily gasping for air. Zosia ran into the

water, helping her beloved Tosia to get ashore.

She didn't understand what happened. Only after some time, she

learned from her grandfather who had just returned from a hunt, that

the Lake of Truth was filled with magic water. Whoever immerses in it

will never be able to lie again and will understand who he really is. The

Lake of Truth returns people the truth about themselves - even if they

try to pretend to be something completely different. The power of the

lake turned out to work also for Zosia, who loved strawberries so

much.

Happy girls made a strawberry cake in the evening that tasted like

nothing before. They ate it without waiting for it to cool down,

devouring the last bites after it became dark. They did not see that an

owl was watching them from a nearby poplar. Can birds smile? If

someone had looked closely at the owl, he would have concluded that

they could.

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- STRAWBERRIES BY KAMILA ROSIŃSKA -

Polish Version - Wersja Polska

TRUSKAWKA

Był piękny, słoneczny dzień, lazurowe niebo roztaczało się

majestatycznie nad Doliną Starego Młyna. Delikatnie

zmierzwiona podmuchami wiatru tafla Jeziora Prawdy

skrzyła się w delikatnych promieniach. Letni wietrzyk

tańczył pomiędzy okiennicami, które poddając mu się,

rytmiczne skrzypiały.

Nagle rozległo się pukanie w okienko. Siostry Tosia i Zosia wybiegły na

ganek starego młyna, myśląc, że to jakiś niespodziewany gość. Jednak

nikogo nie było.

Na progu stał duży wiklinowy kosz z truskawkami.

− Ale smacznie wyglądają, chyba nikt się nie pogniewa jak jedną

spróbuję? – powiedziała Tosia. Jak pomyślała, tak zrobiła i w jednej

chwili zamieniła się w czerwoną, malutką truskawkę, która wpadła do

koszyka, ginąc wśród innych owoców.

− O nie! – Wykrzyknęła wystraszona Zosia.

− Tosiu?! Tosieńko! – wołała dziewczynka, ale zamiast siostry, stał

przed nią wiklinowy kosz, wypełniony po brzegi soczystymi i

mieniącymi się promieniach słońca, truskawkami.

− Która z Was to moja Tosia? Jak mam Cię rozpoznać siostrzyczko? –

wołała zapłakana dziewczynka.

Całe zdarzenie widziała z drzewa puchata, stara Sowa.

− Hu hu, hu hu, nie płacz dziecko. Zanim słońce zajdzie za taflę Jeziora

Prawdy, Ty i Twoja siostra znów się zobaczycie. To powiedziawszy

Sowa odwróciła starą, pierzastą głowę, i zerwała się do lotu

majestatycznie trzepocząc wielkimi skrzydłami.

− Też mi pocieszenie – prychnęła Zosia – chyba muszę Was zabrać do

domu, bo jeszcze ktoś się skusi i przypadkiem zje moją małą Tosię –

cichutko powiedziała Zosia podnosząc kosz z truskawkami.

Ale co to?! Bęc !!!

Zosia upadła potykając się o próg, a wszystkie truskawki potoczyły się

po drewnianej podłodze młyna. Dziewczynka szybciutko je pozbierała i

delikatnie postawiła kosz na stole.

− Muszę Was tu na chwilę zostawić – powiedziała i pobiegła do

swojego pokoju, by naszykować bezpieczne miejsce dla truskawek.

W starej skrzyni pod oknem znajdował się piękny haftowany pled,

który Zosia dostała od swojej babci i bardzo go lubiła. Dziewczynka

położyła się na chwilę obok skrzyni.

Jak rozpoznać siostrzyczkę w ciżbie innych owoców? – zastanawiała

się Zosia. I co się stanie, jeśli nie uda się jej tego zrobić, zanim

truskawki zaczną tracić swoją świeżość?

Wpadający przez otwarte okno wietrzyk smyrał jej policzki, a pod

kocykiem zrobiło się tak przytulnie i ciepło, że pomimo zmartwienia

szybko zasnęła.

Zachodzące słońce nie zdążyło się zetknąć z taflą jeziora, kiedy do

pokoju wleciał kruk. Wylądował obok koszyka z truskawkami i chwilę

mu się przyglądał, jakby chciał wybrać tę najbardziej soczystą i

apetyczną.

Siostrzany instynkt sprawił, że Zosia wyczuła zagrożenie. Szybko

otworzyła oczy i kiedy zobaczyła wielkiego czarnego ptaka, z truskawką

w dziobie, serce załomotało jej jak dzwon na niedzielną mszę.

– Nie! – zdołała wykrzyknąć przez ściśnięte gardło.

Spłoszony kruk zerwał się do lotu i wyfrunął przez okno, nie

wypuszczając truskawki z dzioba.

Przerażona Zosia wybiegła przed młyn, patrząc rozdygotana jak kruk

zmierza nad taflę Jeziora Prawdy. Czuła, że ptak bezbłędnie wybrał

truskawkę, która była najbliższa jej sercu i leci teraz nad jeziorem z jej

siostrą w dziobie.

Nagle, lot kruka został przerwany, bo uderzyła w niego, nadciągające od

strony zachodzącego słońca, pierzasta kula. To sokół, który już stracił

nadzieję, że zdoła coś zjeść na kolację, schwycił kruka w swoje szpony.

Truskawka wypadła mu z dzioba i delikatnie plumknęła o taflę jeziora.

Zosia zerwała się do szaleńczego biegu, z nadzieję, że zdoła wyłowić

truskawkę, tym bardziej, że przy brzegu, gdzie wpadł owoc, woda była

bardzo płytka.

Podbiegła do jeziora, i jakież było jej zdziwienie, gdy zobaczyła,

wynurzającą ponad taflę, głowę swojej siostry, zachłannie chwytającą

ustami powietrze. Zosia wbiegła do wody, pomagając ukochanej Tosi

wyjść na brzeg. Nie rozumiała co się stało. Dopiero po jakimś czasie

dowiedziała się od dziadka, który wrócił z polowania, że Jezioro Prawdy,

jest wypełnione czarodziejską wodą. Kto raz się w niej zanurzy, już

nigdy nie będzie potrafił skłamać i zrozumie, kim jest naprawdę. Jezioro

Prawdy przywraca bowiem ludziom prawdę o nich samych, nawet jeśli

starali się udawać, że są kimś zupełnie innym. Jak się okazało, moc

jeziora zadziałała również w przypadku Zosi, która tak bardzo

uwielbiała truskawki.

Szczęśliwe dziewczynki zrobiły wieczorem ciasto truskawkowe, które

smakowało im jak żadne inne na świecie. Zjadły je, nie czekając aż

wystygnie, ostatnie kęsy pochłaniając już po zmroku. Nie widziały, że z

pobliskiej topoli obserwuje je sowa.

Czy ptaki potrafią się uśmiechać? Gdyby ktoś bacznie przyjrzał się

sowie, stwierdziłby, że chyba jednak tak.

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people

follow Katy:

e-mail: info@katycarr.com

info: www.katycarr.com

tweet: www.twitter.com/katycarrmusic

follow: www.facebook.com/katycarrmusic

photos: www.instagram.com/katycarrmusic

videos: www.youtube.com/katycarrmusic

Katy Carr

POLISH ROOTS

Katy Carr is an award-winning British recording artist who has released six albums to date. Her recent albums ‘Paszport’

(2012) and ‘Polonia’(2015) are inspired by the Polish WWII experience. In 2016 Katy was awarded the ‘Pro Patria’medal for

her humanitarian and musical work. She is also an Ambassador of Polish history in Great Britain. Amongst literary and other

works that inspired this latest album were George Orwell's 'Nineteen Eighty-Four' and 'England Your England', Oscar

Wilde's 'The Nightingale and the Rose' as well as Witold Pilecki's first comprehensive intelligence report (1943) on the

atrocities committed at Auschwitz.

"My fascination with Poland originates with my Polish mother and her family’s history and connections with fighting for freedom against

totalitarianism during and post WWII. Poland’s catastrophic fate lay with the Molotov - Ribbentrop agreement otherwise known as the Hitler-

Stalin Pact signed on 23rd Aug 1939. This agreement was drawn up by both Germany and Soviet Union to invade Poland, steal and enslave

invasions on 1st Sept and 17th Sept 1939 and .

I’m British born with Polish roots, My mother Krystyna was Polish (1947-2018) and was fiercely proud of her Polish roots and was born in

Bielsko-Biala which is in south Poland from the Beskidy mountain range. She escaped totalitarian communism in the 1970s and was determined

that I would be born in the safety and freedom of Great Britain. My mother passed away recently RIP and her final request was to be buried in

her beloved Poland and I ensured that her final wish was realised.

My early memories of Poland were in the Beskidy mountains with my mother and there as a little girl I cemented my love for the country. My

Babcia grandmother Joanna was a ‘Goralka’ a Polish highlander and was born in Międzybrodzie Bialskie. It was a notoriously dangerous place to

live in WWII as it was where the SS took their summer vacations. She had nine children although two passed away due to starvation in WWII.

Her role during the war was working undercover to help the Polish Home Army ‘Armia Krajowa’. She was very proud of the Polish soldiers and

partisans and hid them, including as my grandfather who escaped from Auschwitz concentration camp (Prisoner no 22661). Without my

Grandfather’s escape I would not be here today.

History was very important to my grandmother and she was a deeply religious Catholic woman. She was the first person to teach me Polish

songs and I remember listening to her beautiful ‘Gorale’ highlander voice and amazing knowledge of Polish songs. Her her colourful folklore

headscarf and Polish highlander character was a great inspiration to me and I remember her strength.

I lived with my mother and English/Scottish father in Włocławek until we moved to England when I was 5 years old. I was always aware of my

Polish roots through hearing my mother speak Polish however my connection with the country grew distant as I began to integrate with the

British way of life and culture."

Katy Carr

www.instagram.com/sielskie_inscenizacje

116 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Our magazine is mainly dedicated to tourism, but we are also trying

to give it a character that would be a link for Poles (sometimes in

the 2nd or 3rd generation) scattered all over the world.

I must admit that Katy has always been a mystery to me, ranging

from her stage (but also private) appearance to her music and

involvement in Polish history. Katy, I think what you do and the way

you do it is rather more characteristic of the former emigration, I

mean a kind of 'innocence' and a kind of fascination with Polish

history. I do not see such enthusiasm in the eyes of the

contemporary émigré generation… do you think that my opinion is

justified? (you once said yourself that you are "an ambassador for

the new Poland”). Would you say that being away from your

country of origin has actually made you more patriotic and

interested in the nation’'s past? What history means to you ? (I

know many questions in one :).

Katy Carr: I'm an award winning British songwriter and for the last

decade I have been rediscovering my Polish roots via writing songs,

releasing a trilogy of albums Paszport-Polonia-Providence and

performing to my global audience across Poland, Europe, Great

Britain, USA.

The main inspiration for my recent rediscovery of my Polish roots

came via a story of escape by Polish boy scout Kazimierz ‘Kazik’

Piechowski from Auschwitz concentration camp on 20th June 1942.

Kazik drove out with three political prisoners in the camp

commandant’s car and I wrote a song called ‘Kommander’s Car’

which was inspired by the last 80m of his escape. My song was

produced by Nick Crofts and the music video was directed by the

British filmmaker Hannah Lovell. If you look closely you will be able

to see Kazik in the car! www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqvhgS00UdA

Meeting Kazik and writing ‘Kommander’'s Car’was a pivotal moment

for my creativity as it also led to the creation of our film Kazik and

the Kommander's Car www.kazikfilm.com. Kazik injected me with

his love of Poland and patriotism and introduced me to the deep

and rich topic of Polish history for the first time. He inspired me to

write my 4th album Paszport (2012) which I dedicate to him and

learn Polish patriotic songs of the Polish Home Army – Armia

Krajowa including Dziś do ciebie przyjść nie mogę (The Partisan’s

Lullaby ) and O mój rozmarynie (Oh my Rosemary) and to explore

the Polish freedom fighters from WWII including the Polish pilot ace

of the Battle of Britain General Skalski, Polish 1st Armoured

Division tank commander General Stanisław Maczek, SEO Agent

General Elżbieta Zawacka. I have written over 50 songs about the

Polish WWII experience and these appear on my Polish trilogy.

I bring a fresh approach to the topic of Polish history as I write

from a British songwriting perspective and integrate the music of

English folk lyricism, klezmer, 1930s lyricism and storytelling. I’ve

had an interest in ancestral history ever since I was a little girl as

my ancestors were fierce freedom fighters and fought hard for

their right to be free.

‘Carr is a fine example of that much-maligned

beast we call authenticity...never less than

immaculate.’

Sunday Times Culture Magazine

My Polish mother Krystyna escaped the totalitarian

Communist Iron Curtain regime so that I could be born in the

safety of Great Britain. My Polish grandmother Joanna who

was a Goralka (Polish highlander) hid my grandfather Jozef

after his escape from Auschwitz in the Polish mountains. On

my British side my Great grandfather escaped with Churchill in

the Boer War and was awarded the Star, British War and

Victory medals for his WW1 service.

TLP: Let's move on to music. When I had the opportunity to

talk to you before the pandemic started, I got the impression

that music, your music, is almost the most important thing for

you. What role does music play in your life and do you think

that music is an interesting or effective way of

communicating ideas or broader communication?

Katy Carr: Music has always been in my life and the first time I

remember singing was in the Polish mountains with my

Goralka Polish highlander mother and grandmother. Music

from the Polish mountains inspired me as a child and

transformed my view of the world. I love singing and making

music is now my life as I am a professional musician and

songwriter. My Polish roots begin with my mother Krystyna

who was born in Bielsko-Biała , south Poland which lies within

the Beskid mountain range. She was fiercely proud of her

Polish roots, escaped the totalitarian Iron Curtain Communist

regime and was determined that I would be born in the safety

and freedom of Great Britain. My mother passed away

recently RIP (1947-2018) and her final request was to be

buried in her beloved Poland and I ensured that her wish was

realised. She is buried at the Cmentarz rzymskokatolicki

parafii pw. św. Mikołaja in Bielsko-Biała with my grandmother

and great grandmother.

117 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


My first memories of Poland were in the Beskidy mountains with

my mother and there I cemented my love for the country. My

Babcia (grandmother) Joanna was a ‘Goralka’ a Polish highlander

and was born in Międzybrodzie Bialskie which was a notoriously

dangerous place to live in WWII as it was where the SS took

their summer vacations. She had nine children although two

passed away due to starvation in WWII.

Her role during the war was working undercover to help the

Polish Home Army ‘Armia Krajowa’. She was very proud of the

Polish soldiers and partisans and hid them even though it held a

death penalty including my grandfather who escaped from

Auschwitz concentration camp (Prisoner no 22661). Her actions

ensured my Grandfather’s escape and survival which meant that

my Polish blood lineage was saved.

History was very important to my grandmother and she was a

deeply religious Catholic woman. She was the first person to

teach me Polish songs and I remember listening to her beautiful

‘Gorale’ highlander voice and amazing knowledge of Polish songs.

Her colourful folklore headscarf and Polish highlander character

was a great inspiration to me and I remember her strength.

I lived with my mother and English/Scottish father in Włocławek

until we moved to England when I was 5 years old. I was always

aware of my Polish roots through hearing my mother speak

Polish however my connection with the country grew distant as

I began to integrate with the British way of life and culture.

It was through my connection with Kazik that I had the

opportunity to rediscover my Polish roots and relearn the

language. I had at that point near but forgotten every word of

my child Polish and had lost contact with my Polish family after

my grandmother died.

My album Paszport was a way to express my deep love of

Poland in the form of a song ‘love letter’ which was to express

the joy of patriotism together with the sadness of separation

and tragic trauma of WWII.

My songs cover topics such as the effects of the Hitler-Stalin

pact otherwise known as the Molotov-Ribbentrop agreement

originally signed on 23rd Aug 1939 which saw Poland enslaved

by the two superpowers Germany and the Soviet Union. The

title of the album Paszport came from the catastrophic reality

for many Poles that their Polish passports were no longer valid

during and post WWII. The German invasion on 1st September

1939 and the Soviet invasion on 17th Sept 1939, left Poland

massacred, enslaved and alone.

I wrote the songs for Paszport in both the English and Polish

languages. I wanted the sound to be reminiscent of the Polish

Partisans as described to me by Kazik’s time after his escape

from Auschwitz and during his service with the Armia Krajowa. I

chose a lineup of folk instruments with klezmer influences from

Guy Schalom on percussion helping to build soundscapes such as

on Poland Panorama to the joyful stomp of the cello on the song

‘Wojtek’ inspired by the infamous soldier bear mascot of the

Polish II Corps.

I was inspired to write songs of independence including

Chodźmy, Partyzanci! (Let's Go Partisans!) and songs of loss:

Paszport, Weronika, Poland Panorama, Mala Little Flower which

grieve for the loss of loved ones and a country in the ruin of

war. Red Red Rose pays homage to the two million Poles who

were kidnapped from their homes transported for slave labour in

Stalin’s Gulag concentration camps across the Soviet Union.

Travelling to You is dedicated to the exiled Poles who remained

aliens post WWII and had no chance of ever returning home.

TLP: I would also like to ask you about the universality of your

music. I heard in one of your interviews that when you

performed the song "Wojtek" (story about Polish bear who

served in Polish army during the word war II) in China and you

thought that the message of the song was lost. Do you think

that what inspires you in your music and its message can

sometimes be incomprehensible to a wider audience?

Katy Carr: My trilogy of albums inspired by Poland have opened

many opportunities to me and I have been able to perform my

music across Great Britain, Poland, Europe, USA. My audiences

are intrigued by the universality of the storytelling within the

songs. I have attracted listeners from as far away as Cuba,

Mexico, Siberia, Australia, Afghanistan, Israel, South Africa,

Persia, North Ireland and Iraq. When I headlined the Charlie

Gillett stage at Womad music festival nearly 3000 people were

singing along to Hej Sokoły and audiences as far as China have

sung along to my song Wojtek.

I try to make song melodies that encourage audiences to sing

along.In China the story of Wojtek the soldier bear led to the

audience bringing bear costumes and the joy people had singing

along transcended any language barriers.

TLP: You have recently released a new album called "Providence"

and as you say it is the last part of the "Polish" trilogy. (later you

will find information about the album).

What musical direction do you want to go now?

Katy Carr: I’ve been hugely inspired by the WWII experience in

Poland for the last decade and now I would like to focus on

learning the Polish language through singing songs written by

the great composers of the Syrena Rekord Company of 1930s

Poland including Marian Hemar and Henryk Wars. During

lockdown I performed the finale concert for Polish Heritage Days

2021 where I gave a ‘lecture concert’ giving introductions to my

songs and singing my favourite songs from the Syrena archive.

Watch the concert here: POSK Online: Katy Carr:

Polish-British Stories for Polish Heritage Days 2021

www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXL_piCBiac

118 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


art &

history

www.katycarr.com

tweet: www.twitter.com/katycarrmusic

follow: www.facebook.com/katycarrmusic

photos: www.instagram.com/katycarrmusic

videos: www.youtube.com/katycarrmusic

119 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Katy Carr’s New Album, ‘PROVIDENCE’

Concludes Polish Roots Trilogy.

Deluce Recordings

Katy Carr's sixth studio album Providence was inspired initially by a

dream sequence that the award-winning singer songwriter

remembers upon waking. Themes around water - including songs

about taking in Hampstead’'s Ladies’Pond and miracles on the River

Vistula - good versus evil, fighting for freedom as well as love and

death are explored. The new album creates the third and final

chapter in her Polish roots rediscovery trilogy initiated by her fourth

album, ‘Paszport’(2012). Katy believes that the people she has met

along the way have been linked through providence and that her

experiences have been synchronised through fate. Picture yourself

through the new album’s release, transported back to Hampstead

post World War II sometime around 1947, where you are hosting a

party at Erno Goldfinger’s house for the elite thinkers, writers,

military leaders of Britain and Poland throughout the ages. The Cold

War has begun and Stalin has sealed his Iron Curtain stamp on

Europe.

Then you hear Edgar Rice Burroughs’ voice repeating over and over

again - “Am I alive and a reality, or am I but a dream?” A young

George Orwell then discusses in great detail the current tragedy of

‘HERO TO ZEЯO’ and the ‘Western Betrayal of Poland’ with a Nobel

Peace Prize laureate (Czesław Miłosz) and Polish resistance fighter

(Witold Pilecki). For nearly a decade, Carr has been making in-roads

to rediscover the land of her mother’s birth, Poland - learning the

Polish language and history of a rich and diverse heritage. Underlying

this Polish mission has been her personal quest to understand her

own family’s inter-generational trauma from both a British and Polish

WWII experience. This has resulted in family estrangement and led

her to develop a songwriting and performance career.

The ten songs on the album reflect the immense need the singer

had for strong role model characters that could become her

friends and family and demonstrate survival techniques through

their own life histories, trials and experiences. Nottingham-born

Carr says she learnt that at the heart of every story was a quest

for inner enlightenment, freedom and peace. With the album’s

other tracks, ‘BOADICEA’ praises Queen Elizabeth I, aka ‘THE

VIRGIN QUEENE’ on her defeat of the Spanish Armada and then

they all then head off to ‘THE LADIES’ POND’ for a swim.

‘AFTERWARDS’ … and you see a little girl born into poverty in the

Polish mountains who will eventually become your mother. ‘THAT

LITTLE DEVIL’, that is your grandfather, suffers from Auschwitz

syndrome and inflicts immeasurable cruelty upon his family.

Queen Wanda of Poland then tells you to keep the 'MIRACLE ON

THE VISTULA’, a secret in a box under the water and never to

utter a word. You hear ‘A BEAUTIFUL SONG FOR YOU’ sung by

Oscar Wilde’'s brave nightingale, whose song - once so strong -

has now faded into the distance as her heart is pierced by a

thorn and loses its precious life force. As you awaken with the

dawn, a bloom of a red rose reminds you that this strange and

yet compelling dream/nightmare sequence is continuing to spiral.

Your head is awash with coded messages from the ‘HEJ SOKOŁY’

peregrine falcons. Subsequently you dash for your notebook and

scribble down as much as you can remember.

There must be a meaning to all of this, you say to yourself. Your

senses are heightened, for you know the muse has spoken. Now

your only job is to decipher her messages and translate them into

a ‘FREEDOM SONG’.

V I S I T K A T Y ' S S T O R E

W W W . K A T Y C A R R . C O M / S H O P

120 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND



A R C H I V E S

K R A K Ó W – T H E M A R K E T S Q U A R E

Title: Author/Supplier: Krieger

Ignacy (1817-1889), Zakład

Fotograficzny Ignacy Krieger

Creation Time: 1872-1875

W W W . C T . M H K . P L

122 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


It is the largest medieval square in Europe. Measuring

approximately 200 metres by 200 metres, it was laid

out when the city received its charter in 1257. Unlike

the Cloth Hall, he Town Hall and the town houses that

border the square, the churches of St Maryand St

Adalbert were built before the charter and so are not

aligned with the sides of the Main Market Square. The

vital addition to the square is the monument of Adam

Mickiewicz, designed in 1898 by Teodor Rygier. Looking

at the restored colourful townhouses and mansions

surrounding the square it is hard to believe that they

are 500-600 years old. The Grey House (Szara

Kamienica) at no. 6 deserves a closer look. Legend has

it that it was donated by King Casimir the Great to his

mistress, Sarah. The Pod Krzysztofory Palace at no. 35

is noteworthy as kings John Casimir, Michał Korybut

Wiśniowiecki and Duke Józef Poniatowski all stayed

there at one time or other, and from it there is a

wonderful panorama of the Main Market Square with

St Mary's Church, the Town Hall Tower, Adam

Mickiewicz's monument and the Cloth Hall. The Pod

Baranami Palace (Rams' Palace) at no. 27 is the home

of a popular cabaret. House No. 15 is renowned for its

restaurant, Wierzynek, whose traditions go back to a

famous feast held at the house in 1364. In September

2010 under the Main Market Square, the biggest

European underground museum, with around 4,000m²,

containing a modern multimedia exhibition entitled

'Following the traces of Krakow's European identity'

and a tourist route situated 4metres below ground,

was finally opened.

PHOTOS:

above: the Main Market Square - detail

below left: Author/Supplier: Krieger Ignacy (1817-1889), Zakład Fotograficzny Ignacy Krieger Creation Time: 1879-1882

below right: Author/Supplier: Krieger Ignacy (1817-1889), Zakład Fotograficzny Ignacy Krieger Creation Time: 1879


the past

history of the Main Square

Photos & Digitalisation: www.ct.mhk.pl, public domain

The main function of the Market Square was commerce. After

the city was destroyed by the Mongol invasion in 1241, the Main

Square was rebuilt in 1257 and its commercial role expanded with

the Magdeburg rights location of the city by the prince of

Kraków, Bolesław V the Chaste. The Main Square was designed in

its current state with each side repeating a pattern of three,

evenly spaced streets set at right angles to the square. The

exception is Grodzka Street which is much older and connects

the Main Square with the Wawel Castle. Originally the square was

filled with low market stalls and administrative buildings and had

a ring road running around it. It was King Casimir III the Great

who built the original Gothic Cloth Hall and the town hall that

filled nearly a quarter of the square. Kraków was the capital of

the Kingdom of Poland and a member of the Hanseatic League

and the city flourished as an important European metropolis. In

addition to its original merchant functions the Main Square

witnessed many historical events, and it was used to stage public

executions of prisoners held in the city's Town Hall. It was a place

of regal ceremonies as part of the Royal Road (Droga Królewska),

frequented by diplomats and dignitaries traveling to Wawel

Castle. In 1364 King Casimir held the Pan-European Congress of

Kraków there. On 10 April 1525, Albert I, Duke of Prussia paid the

Prussian Homage to Sigismund I the Old, king of Poland and

Grand Duke of Lithuania, accepting Polish kings' suzerainty,

(pictured). In 1514 Lithuanian duke Konstanty Ostrogski held a

victory parade over the Muscovy and in 1531 nobleman Jan

Tarnowski celebrated another victory in the Muscovite wars. Jan

III Sobieski, a King of Poland and Grand Duke of Lithuania,

celebrated there his victory over the Turkish Empire in the 1683

Battle of Vienna

In 1978 UNESCO placed the Main Square as part of the Old Town

Kraków on the list of World Heritage Sites. On 21 March 1980, in a

time of political tension and the run-up to the declaration of Martial

Law in Poland, Walenty Badylak, a retired baker and a veteran of

Poland's wartime underground Home Army, set himself alight

chained to a well in the Main Square. Badylak was protesting the

communist government's refusal to acknowledge the Katyn war

crime. Also, the Main Square was central in staging mass

demonstrations of the Solidarity movement. In 2013 Lonely Planet

travel guides rated Kraków's Main Market Square as the most

beautiful in the world. Originally the market square consisted of

more structures that were crucial to the economy and political life

of the city and thus created a microcosm of the city. The Kraków

Town Hall existed since the medieval era and was destroyed in the

19th century. Also standing next to the Cloth Hall was the Great

Weigh House and the Small Weigh House, which both existed until

the 19th century. The foundations of the weigh houses were

excavated in the early 21st century and incorporated into an

underground museum. Since its creation, the level of the Market

Square has raised, in some places by over 5 metres. Underneath

there are large basements, the most famous of which is the Piwnica

pod Baranami. Many cellars are now transformed into pubs and

restaurants; other include the Theater Maszkaron and a small

archeological museum in the basement of the St. Adalbert's church.

There are passages linking some of the basements, such as the one

linking the Town Hall Tower with the Cloth Hall. The Hall itself has a

little-known underground trading hall, 100 meters wide and 5

meters high. Near Sienna Street there is another underground hall,

with 1,200 square metres of trading area.

124 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

left: the Main Market Square.

right: Author/Supplier: Krieger Ignacy (1817-1889), Zakład Fotograficzny Ignacy Krieger Creation Time: 1882-1884


PHOTOS:

the Main Square

Krieger Ignacy (1817-1889),

Zakład Fotograficzny Ignacy Krieger

Creation Time:

1882-1884



photo: Magdalena Tomaszewska-Bolałek


visual guide

monasteries in Poland

TOP 12 to see

guide by:

lovePoland

1. The Jasna Góra Monastery in Częstochowa, is a shrine

dedicated to the Virgin Mary and one of the country's places

of pilgrimage.

The image of the Black Madonna of Częstochowa, also

known as Our Lady of Częstochowa, to which miraculous

powers are attributed, is one of Jasna Góra's most precious

treasures.

Every year since the Middle Ages, thousands of Poles go in

pilgrim groups to visit Jasna Góra. In 2011, it was estimated

that 3.2 million pilgrims from 80 countries around the world

went to the shrine.

Around 830,000 pilgrims took part in 228 pilgrimages

organized in different places across Poland, 143, 983 of

which reached the monastery on foot. The average distance

for a pilgrim group to travel is about 350 kilometres (217

miles), made in 11 days.

2. The Benedictine monastery on the Święty Krzyż (Holy

Cross) peak is a historical monument of extraordinary

importance for the Polish culture and heritage - primarily

due to its historical and religious significance. Location woj.

świętokrzyskie, pow. kielecki, gm. Nowa Słupia – gmina

wiejska.

5. Lubiąż is a village on the east bank of the Odra River, in

the administrative district of Gmina Wołów, within Wołów

County, Lower Silesian Voivodeship. The village is mainly

known for its large abbey. The Abbey was built by the

Benedictines in 1150, and occupied by Cistercians in 1163

until 1810. Built over centuries, the abbey – the largest

Cistercian abbey in the world – is rated in the highest class

("0") of landmarks of world's cultural heritage. Lubiąż is also

known in Poland for its regional psychiatric hospital.

6. Cistercian Abbey in Henryków. The Cistercian presence in

Henryków dates back to 1227 when the first monks arrived

from Lubiąż. Soon after founding the abbey, it was

devastated by Tatar incursion of 1241, and later looted

during Hussite Wars at the beginning of the 15th Century,

and during the Thirty Years’ War in the first half of the 17th

Century. The tour of the monastery complex will take

approx. 1 hour (not including the church, the gardens and

the park). To visit the church, please make an appointment

with the parish priest (entrance to the presbytery at the

back of the church).

On photo: Tyniec Abbey

3. Camaldolese Hermit Monastery in Kraków is a

Camaldolese priory in Bielany in Kraków. The monastery is

located on the 326-metre Silver Mount. It consists of

hermitages and the Assumption of Mary Church.

The Camaldolese monks were invited to settle in Bielany by

Grand Court Marshal Mikołaj Wolski in 1603.

4. Benedictine abbey in Tyniec is the oldest existing

monastery in Poland which continues the Benedictine

tradition - a site which figures prominently in the history of

Poland from almost the very beginning of Polish statehood.

From the first half of the 11th century onwards, the

monastery played the role of an important centre for

missionary activities as well as for liturgical and cultural life.

In addition, it also bore witness to many significant political

events and had links with numerous historical figures.

128 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Olsztyn

12

Camaldolese Monastery

in Wigry

11

Cistercian Monastery

in Kołbacz

Warszawa

Cistercian Abbey

in Sulejów

10

Cistercian Abbey

in Lubiąż

5

Cistercian Abbey

in Henryków

6

Wrocław

1

Jasna Góra

Monastery

2

8

Cistercian Monastery

in Wąchock

Abbey on the

Holy Cross

in Nowa Słupia

Cistercian Abbey

in Rudy

7

Benedictine

Abbey in Tyniec

4

Kraków

3

Monastery of the Camaldolese

Monks in Kraków

9

Dominican Monastery

in Krasnobród

created by lovePoland

7. More than 700-year-old Cistercian monastery and palace

complex is a former historic Romanesque-Gothic Cistercian

abbey in Rudy - a village located in Racibórz County in Silesia.

It was founded in 1253 by Prince Ladislaus of Opole, who

brought the Cistercians from Jędrzejów to Rudy.

8. The monastery in Wąchock was built at the turn of the

twelfth and thirteenth centuries. It is one of the most

beautiful examples of Romanesque architecture in Poland.

The founder of the abbey was in 1179 the Bishop of Krakow

Gedeon (Gedko). The builder of the abbey was Simon, of

Italian origin.

The monastery was destroyed twice by Tatar invasions.

Thanks to the strength of will and hard work, the nun slowly

brought him back to its former glory.

9. Dominican monastery with the church of Marian apparition

in Krasnobrod located in the eastern part of the city -

Podklasztorze. The church was built in baroque style in 1690-

1699 gg., Designed by Michael Link It, and built on the

initiative of Mary Sobieski, on the s vows a return to life.

10. Sulejów Abbey (Polish: Opactwo Cystersów w Sulejowie)

was a Cistercian abbey founded in 1176 by the duke Kazimierz

II the Just. The town of Sulejów grew up round it. The most

notable parts of the abbey are: the Romanesque church of

Saint Thomas Becket of Canterbury, the Romanesque

fortifications which stopped the Mongol in the 13th century.

11. Cistercian Monastery in Kołbacz: this place has a special

place in the history of Danish-Polish relations through the

ages. To the newly constructed Cistercian monastery in

Kołbacz arrived in 1174 Cistercian monks from Esrum

Monastery in Denmark with the mission of Christianizing the

inhabitants of Pomerania. In 1210 they began the building of

the present church, which is still popularly called “the Danish

church”.

12. The Pokamedulski Monastery is located on a hill above

Lake Wigry. Formerly one of the richest buildings of this type

in Europe. This 17th-century building now offers visitors many

attractions. You can visit the John Paul II Museum, the clock

tower and the crypts where the monks were once buried.

129 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


BY: KAMIL PALUSZEK

CERKWIE W POLSCE

POŁUDNIOWO-WSCHODNIEJ

Photos: Kamil Paluszek

Introduction: Jarosław Giemza,

Damian Nowak

Publisher: Wydawnictwo Libra PL

Album size: 24x30cm, 496 pages

published by Libra,

Buy here: www.libra.pl

PL

To książka o pięknie i misterium Cerkwi. Zostały w niej zaprezentowane

fotografie niemal dwustu obiektów z tej części historycznej eparchii

przemyskiej, która po II wojnie światowej znalazła się w granicach Polski oraz

kilka świątyń położonych na południowym krańcu diecezji chełmskiej.

Wertując karty albumu, stajemy się uczestnikami wyjątkowej wędrówki

szlakiem cerkwi, przez Łemkowszczyznę, Bieszczady, Pogórza oraz Roztocze

Wschodnie, aż po południową część Lubelszczyzny.

Pomimo zniszczeń jakie miały miejsce po 1947 roku, na obszarze południowowschodniej

Polski zachowało się kilkaset cerkwi. To swoisty fenomen,

świadczący o dawnej wielokulturowości tych ziem. Najstarsza – murowana

świątynia w Posadzie Rybotyckiej, pochodzi z początku XV wieku, a

najbardziej sędziwe drewniane cerkwie pamiętają XVI stulecie. Służą dzisiaj

prawosławnym, grekokatolikom i rzymskim katolikom. Szczególna wartość

kilku z nich została doceniona poprzez wpis na listę światowego dziedzictwa

UNESCO dokonany w 2013 roku. Są to znane wszystkim cerkwie w Radrużu,

Chotyńcu, Smolniku nad Sanem, Turzańsku, Owczarach, Brunarach, Kwiatoniu i

Powroźniku. Jednak nie tylko te najbardziej zabytkowe, ale każda z

przedstawionych w albumie świątyń urzeka swym pięknem. Z wieloma z nich,

oddalonymi od uczęszczanych szlaków turystycznych, dzięki tej

monumentalnej publikacji spotkamy się po raz pierwszy. Album ,,Cerkwie w

Polsce południowo-wschodniej” to owoc wielu lat pracy i tysięcy godzin

fotografowania. Jak pisze Jarosław Giemza, wyśmienity znawca sztuki

cerkiewnej: Zaproszenie do spotkania z Cerkwią, jakie kieruje do nas Kamil

Paluszek jest intuicyjną a zarazem kształtowaną latami umiejętnością

dzielenia się pięknem i wrażliwością na nie. Autor tych fotografii wpisuje

Świątynię w krajobraz, aby za chwilę schylić się po drobiazg, którego nie

dostrzegli inni. Ten album sprawi, że baczniej rozejrzymy się wokół i zadziwi

nas to umykało naszej uwadze, albo uważaliśmy za znane.

EN

It is a book about the beauty and mystery of the Orthodox Church. It presents

photographs of almost two hundred objects from this part of the historical

Przemyśl eparchy, which after World War II became part of Poland, and several

churches located at the southern end of the Chełm diocese. By browsing

through the pages of the album, we become participants in a unique journey

along the route of the church, through the Lemko region, Bieszczady, Pogórze

and Roztocze Wschodnie, to the southern part of the Lublin region.

Despite the damage that took place after 1947, several hundred churches have

survived in south-eastern Poland. This is a peculiar phenomenon that proves

the former multiculturalism of these lands. The oldest - a brick church in

Posada Rybotycka dates from the beginning of the 15th century, and the oldest

wooden churches date back to the 16th century. Today they serve Orthodox,

Greek Catholics and Roman Catholics. The special value of several of them was

appreciated by the entry on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2013. These

are the well-known churches in Radruż, Chotyniec, Smolnik on the San,

Turzańsk, Owczary, Brunary, Kwiatoń and Powroźnik. However, not only the

most historic, but each of the temples presented in the album enchants with its

beauty. Thanks to this monumental publication, we will meet for the first time

with many of them, far from the frequented tourist routes. The album

"Cerkwie w South-Eastern Poland" is the result of many years of work and

thousands of hours of shooting. As Jarosław Giemza, an excellent expert on

the art of the Orthodox Church, writes: The invitation to a meeting with the

Orthodox Church, which Kamil Paluszek sends to us, is intuitive, and at the

same time shaped the ability throughout years to share beauty and sensitivity

to it. The author of these photos inserts the Temple into the landscape, only to

bend down for a little detail that others did not notice. This album will make us

look around more closely and it will amaze us that we missed it, or we

considered it known.

130 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


W W W . L I B R A . P L


L O V E P O L A N D . O R G M E D I A P A R T N E R

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