Travel Love Poland Magazine – June 2021
Dear Readers, Summer came, beautiful and hot in Poland, but it was not an easy time to work on the next edition of the magazine. Some of you noticed that it appeared later than usual. This was probably due to the fact of the travel restrictions, we did not know how to approach the topic of travelling to our country. I know the arrival may be difficult for many, especially if you do not have vaccinations. However, we will show you a few beautiful places, hoping that there will come a time when traveling again will be associated with pleasure and not stress resulting from uncertainty and resurrections. We invite you to the Polish seaside to the beautiful Świnoujscie and to get to know old houses and palaces, mainly in Pomerania. We hope that the cooperation with Claudia will result in more interesting materials on this subject. As always, we recommend the photos and text of Marek Kalisiński, dedicated to Konik Polski. You should also go and discover Rytro in the photographs of Janusz Wańczyk. Of course, there are more beautiful photos in the Magazine – for example, photos of castles in the background of the Tatra Mountains made by Marcin, and for active recreation lovers, we encourage you to go on bicycle trips in the Beskid Sadecki.
Dear Readers,
Summer came, beautiful and hot in Poland, but it was not an easy time to work on the next edition of the magazine. Some of you noticed that it appeared later than usual. This was probably due to the fact of the travel restrictions, we did not know how to approach the topic of travelling to our country. I know the arrival may be difficult for many, especially if you do not have vaccinations. However, we will show you a few beautiful places, hoping that there will come a time when traveling again will be associated with pleasure and not stress resulting from uncertainty and resurrections.
We invite you to the Polish seaside to the beautiful Świnoujscie and to get to know old houses and palaces, mainly in Pomerania. We hope that the cooperation with Claudia will result in more interesting materials on this subject. As always, we recommend the photos and text of Marek Kalisiński, dedicated to Konik Polski.
You should also go and discover Rytro in the photographs of Janusz Wańczyk. Of course, there are more beautiful photos in the Magazine – for example, photos of castles in the background of the Tatra Mountains made by Marcin, and for active recreation lovers, we encourage you to go on bicycle trips in the Beskid Sadecki.
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J U N E - A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 | V O L 1 | I S S U E 1 6
I S S N 2 5 1 5 - 8 5 0 3
travel.lovePoland
through the lens
Polish koniks are widespread throughout the country.
Konik
Due to their small height, gentle character, friendly
attitude towards people and willingness to work,
they are eagerly used by children as well as adults
popular in hippotherapy.
and
Text and photos: Marek Kalisiński
M E D I A P A R T N E R
LOVEPOLAND.ORG
media partner
w i t k a c y t h e a t r e i n Z a k o p a n e
w w w . w i t k a c y . p l
"Life makes most sense at the height of nonsense"
Witkacy theatre is one of the most cherished theatres in Poland.
It was founded in 1984 in tribute to a Zakopane legend,
Stanislaw Ignacy Witkiewicz.
Every year in Świnoujście more and more vacationers, apart
from lying on the beach choose to rest actively, for example:
cycling, wander on numerous hiking trails and try out various
forms of water sports. It is during the holiday time that we
can do everything we miss during our everyday busy lives.
Świnoujście is a perfect place for active rest. Not many places
in Poland have such an interesting offer. Remarkable
geographic location and varied forms of terrain make splendid
and the charming sunsets viewed from the terrace of your
hotel or from your tent flap, will make your stay in
Świnoujście an unforgettable experience.
Therapeutic health treatment is centred in the seaside
district of Świnoujście, and it is conducted within fourteen
sanatoriums. The health resorts of Świnoujście specialise in
treating endocrinology, cardiology and dermatology related
diseases, as well as hearing, respiratory and spinal disorders
Ś W I N O U J Ś C I E ’ S U N I Q U E N A T U R A L V A L U E S O N C E M A D E I T T H E M O S T
P O P U L A R R E S O R T I N O U R P A R T O F E U R O P E .
conditions for different forms of tourism, sports and
recreation. Sea waters of Pomeranian Gulf, inland basin of
the Szczecin Lagoon, overflow area of the Stara Świna River
surrounded by forests, lakes, islets, beaches, flat forest
ducts, high moraine hills, fauna and flora of the nearby
nature reserves and the Wolin National Park – the following
pages will give you an idea how to make use of those
resources to the biggest extend.
Świnoujście's unique natural values once made it the most
popular resort in our part of Europe. Today, its extensive
moors and salt springs, and its modern treatment facilities
run by professional staff who ensure top quality service, are
highly appreciated by visitors from Poland and abroad. The
mild seaside micro-climate, sunny weather, breathtaking
landscape, clear and balsamic air that can be enjoyed during
pleasurable, relaxing walks, wonderful cycling and kayaking,
There is also a growing number of hotels and recreation
centres, which provide a wide variety of biological
regeneration services, using modern equipment and
cosmetic products sourced from renowned companies. In
Świnoujście, you will not only be cured, but you will also
regain your strength and energy.
In the recent years, with the efforts of self government and
financial aid from the European Union, Świnoujście has
created perfect conditions for cycling tourism. Currently,
there are over twelve kilometere-long cycling lanes in the
territorially limited by the Świna River and the state border
left hand bank part of the city itself. The cycling lanes
connect most important parts of the health resort – that is
the city center, the harbor, the seaboard district and the
border crossings to German towns of Ahlbeck and Garz.
07 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Additionally, there are over one hundred kilometers of
cycling lanes marked in a very clear way and according
to international standards. Moreover, excellent bicycle
infrastructure of German part of the Uznam island is
located in the vicinity. All those aspects make it possible
to adjust bicycle excursions precisely to your interests,
free time, as well as individual conditions and abilities.
The natural, historical and modern features of
Świnoujście can be explored by taking a walk along the
paths marked up in the Isles of Usedom and Wolin.
Walking tours along the seaside promenades in
Świnoujście, and in the neighbouring German Ahlbeck,
Heringsdorf and Bansin, will certainly be a pleasurable
experience. The picturesque sea location, the scent of
sand-dune plants or the ambience of the innumerable
seaside cafeterias provide a sufficient incentive.
A tour around the seaside districts can also be viewed
as an inspiring time travel to the turn of the 19th
Century which marked the flourishing of treatment
services, and the rapid development of the Usedom
resorts that were frequently visited by the political,
intellectual and cultural elites. Indeed, in these times,
the Isle of Usedom hosted such prominent figures as
Emperor William II, L. Tolstoy, M. Gorki, the Mann
brothers and J. Strauss.
This was also when an eclectic and elegant
architectural style, specific to health resort centres,
was developed, the so-called 'Kaiser architecture'.
Despite the severe bombing campaign experienced
by Świnoujście, then controlled by Germans, on the
last days of the World War II, some of the
monumental buildings reflecting this ornamental
style (which is comprised of decorative elevations,
columns, spires and loggias), have fortunately
survived. They can be now admired in Ahlbeck and
Heringsdorf.
We truly encourage you to take a walk around the
marked tourist trails in the Isles of Usedom and
Wolin. Surrounded by water and situated at the
contact point of the circulating land and sea
breezes, Świnoujście provides wonderful conditions
for practising windsurfing and kitesurfing.
The Usedom beach near the windmill, and the
Warszów district beach (in the Isle of Wolin), both
referred to as “spots” in the surfing jargon, have
invariably enjoyed a growing popularity among Polish
surfers. The best surfing conditions are created by
northern, north-eastern and north-western winds.
Southern winds, on the other hand, favour
Szczecińskie Lake.
09 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
The opening of borders for car traffic in the Isle of Usedom has
considerably facilitated the access to water areas in the German
part of the Isle, such as the one in the village of Kamminke,
located near Świnoujście. These areas are suitable to practice
both windsurfing and kite-surfing. The relatively shallow water
surrounding Świnoujście, and the wide beach are recommended by
professional instructors as making Świnoujście the safest place to
learn kite-surfing. What is more, the vicinity of other near-by
“spots” gives an opportunity to continue training when wind
conditions change. Świnoujście is considered a real fisherman's
heaven. The local waters are home to innumerable species of
freshwater, migratory and sea fish. This is where impressive
specimens of sanders, breams and pike fish can be caught,
especially in June and October., while the period from Spring to
Autumn is best for perch and roach fishing. Indeed, 4-5 kg of
these two species can be caught within as little as one hour.
Eels floating down the Oder river basin are also frequently
encountered at this time. Perches and burbots dominate at the
turn of Autumn, together with flounders and plaices. You may
also come across royal salmons and migratory Salmo trout,
weighing up to 20 kg.
The Land of 44 Islands is a real paradise for the lovers of Nordic
walking. The wide several-kilometres-long beaches in the Isle of
Usedom, on both the Polish and German sides of the border, are
undoubtedly the most suitable venue to practise this sport.
The huge Spa Park, located between the Seaside District and the
city centre, also encourages you to take a long walk, even in
windy weather. While in the park, you will have a wonderful
opportunity to explore Nature, including seeing a number of rare
trees and shrubs. The forest area, connected with the forest
growing in the German part of Usedom, constitutes another
exceptional location to practice Nordic walking. Indeed, a while
back, two running and walking paths were marked up in the
forest at Moniuszki Street. These are intended for all of course,
not just for Nordic walkers alone.
In addition, by taking the seaside path along the Isle of Wolin, or
the cycling lane R-10 that leads through the forest, you can reach
the neighbouring city of Międzyzdroje.
The geographic location of Świnoujście, combined with the
diversity and attractiveness of the local water areas, creates
exceptional conditions for sea and inland sailing. Experienced
sailors, willing to explore open water areas, can sail out from
Świnoujście to the Baltic Sea. Szczecińskie Lake connects the
surrounding Polish and German ports and marinas, while the
Stara Świna lakes and pools are ideal training venues for less
advances sailors. Located at a short distance from Germany and
Scandinavia, Świnoujście provides a myriad of opportunities for
Polish sailors, and is an inviting port for German and Scandinavian
ones.
Our modern yacht port in Świnoujście can accommodate
approximately 350 vessels. This is the largest one on the Polish
coast within the Northern region (53°54′48″N 14°16′8″E).
(http://www.osir.swinoujscie.pl/obiekty-sportowe/portjachtowy/opis).
Sheltered from open water, the yacht port is
situated in the north-east of the city, on the Isle of Usedom, in
the vicinity of the Spa Park and the 19th Century fortifications. In
addition, it is only a short distance from the city centre. The high
standards of service in this yacht port have been confirmed by
the awarding of the prestigious international quality sign,
referred to as the Blue Flag.
Each summer, Świnoujście hosts a number of regatta, which
attract dozens of participants. The more important events
include the 'Days of the Sea Regatta', the 'Tourist Regatta' and
the 'Unity Line Regatta'. Larger vessels can also be seen during
the annual sailing event, known as 'Sail Świnoujście', which takes
place in August. A cruise on a sailing ship is an inimitable
opportunity for all landlubbers to experience a fascinating sea
adventure. The spread sun-bleached sails, the drifting vessels
and crews working hard onboard, create an unforgettable image
that will be frequently recalled by tourists long after they leave
Świnoujście.
10 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Sunset. Świnoujście Beach
11 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
TOP 6 IN ŚWINOUJŚCIE
01
The Maritim Fishing Museum
02 The Angel's Fort
03 The Christ the King Church
The former Town Hall, the oldest
building in town (project from
1792, built 1804 – 1806), today
housing the Museum of the Deep
Sea Fishing; exhibits include the
history of sea fishing, sea animals,
the town and its region, and old
navigation equipment; also a place
of numerous occasional
exhibitions.
Address: 1 Plac Rybaka Street
A Prussian construction erected
between 1854 – 1858; initially
under the name of “Werk III”,
which was subsequently changed
into The Fort of Angel due to a
striking resemblance to the
Roman Mausoleum of the
Emperor Hadrian; the
construction is a three level
rotunda, topped with a terrace
and the observation tower.
Address: Jachtowa Street
The 18th century Christ the King
Church – erected on the site of a
gothic temple; a wooden ship
replica is in the main nave, called
„vergissmannicht“, what means
“don’t forget”; from June to
September every Sunday a place
of the International Music
Festival “Organ Nights”
Address: 1 Plac Kościelny Street
04 The Lighthouse
05 Underground city
Breakwaters
06
Put into service in 1857, highest
on the Baltic Sea – 68m, one of
the highest in Europe, 308 stairs
to an observation deck, sea rescue
and lighthouse exhibition.
Opening hours:
March-June and September-
October daily from 10am-6pm
July-August daily from 10am-8pm
November-February
daily 10am-4pm
The longest underground tourist
route in northern Poland! The
complex of bunkers and tunnels,
built in the first half of the 20th
century. During World War II, the
building served as a coastal
defense battery, and after the
war – a Command Post for the
Polish Army Command.
The structure is located in the
forest between the Świnoujście-
Przytór railway station and the
beach.
From the early nineteenth
century, the western together
with the "Stawa Młyny" -
navigation sign in the shape of
the windmill, the central - with a
length of over 1400 meters into
the depths ot the sea (the
longest stone pier in Europe).
ŚWINOUJŚCIE
"As the staff of the Tourist Information, we are willing to provide you with any assistance and good advice that you request. We will also be happy
to answer all your questions at any time, and we will recommend you places worth seeing. Moreover, we will show you the local tourist trails.
Feel free to come visit us at the Tourist Information, located in the city centre, near the museum and ferry crossing".
It is our hope that when leaving Świnoujście, you will say “See you soon”.
The Tourist Information Centre will provide you with free information materials regarding the City of Świnoujście.
Tourist Information
6/1 Plac Słowiański
72-600 Świnoujście
Latitude 53.90790°N Longitude 14.25020°E
Work hours:
Monday - Friday: 9am-5pm Saturday: 10am-2pm
12 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
S T A Y | R E S T | E N J O Y N A T U R E
CHATA LEONA
GORLICE
LOW BESKID
Chata Leona (Leon's Hut) is located in the heart of the
it is impossible not to notice the numerous war
picturesque Low Beskid, on the outskirts of Gorlice. It is
cemeteries scattered across the Beskid villages and
an ideal place for a family holiday or a weekend with
mountain peaks. It is a perfect place for unhurried
friends - especially for the lovers of relaxation in cosy,
wandering, savouring every moment, and observing wild
wooden interiors. The excellent location of the facility
nature
provides quick access to the most popular attractions of
Chata Leona has 5 double bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, a
the Beskid, such as the Magura National Park, Lake
large kitchen, a shared lounge and dining area, a large
Klimkówka or Regietów, where the largest Hucul horse
private covered terrace and a sunny patio with access
stud in Europe is located, and the most frequented
to the garden. Here you can find peace and relaxation
hiking and cycling routes. Picturesque surroundings are
in the privacy of nature, among trees and flowers. Just 2
full of Lemko accents. The area is rich in ski slopes for
km from Gorlice, a city with many attractions such as a
lovers of winter madness.
cycling town, indoor and outdoor swimming pools,
While wandering through the lands of the Low Beskids,
cinema, bowling and numerous bars and restaurants.
Reservations and inquiries can be made
via Facebook @chataleona
or
email: ChataLeonaGorlice@gmail.com
We look forward to welcoming you!
19 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
B E A U T I F U L B A L T I C B A Y A R E A
W I T H H I N T E R L A N D
prepared with cooperation of Claudia Schaffhausen
Marketing und Öffentlichkeitsarbeit
Projektleitung Baltic Manors
www.baltic-manors.eu
www.mein-urlaub-im-schloss.de
kontakt@mein-urlaub-im-schloss.de
Like us: www.facebook.com/travelbalticmanors
Follow us! www.instagram.com/balticmanors
20 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Manor Houses in Northern
Kashubia
Manors on Northern Kashubia are still not well known touristic
attraction of region. Latest researches shows that in this area
there are 200 manors. Only in the region of Wejherowo
(Neustadt) were 100 manors. Near Puck (Putzig) and Lębork
(Lauenburg) were 56 and 60 manors. The high number of
manors in this region showed the wealth of their owners and
also it was a sign of present Pomeranian noble families with
polish and German roots. The variety of the Kashubian manor
houses is enormously. Same is the todays usage. The range is
from luxury restored 5 star hotel to a simple bed & breakfast.
But still a lot of the Kashubian manors are in very bad condition
which is painfully especially for people who are loving history
and architecture. After some manors only ruins remained, traces
on maps, pictures in families or national archives.
Where to visit
From some manors which were renovated worth seeing
mansions are connected with cultural activities great example of
new life in old place is palace in Wejherowo which is museum of
Pomeranian-Kashubian music and literature, similar role has
Manor in Rumia (Ruhmel)(polish name Dworek pod lipami) and in
Gościcino (Gossentin) (Dworek drzewiarza) which are community
centers. Most of manors are year-round well prosperity hotels
and restaurants in: Ciekocinek (Zackenzin), Godętowo
(Goddentow), Kłanino (Klanin), Lisewo (Lissau), Rekowo Górne
(Reckow), Rzucewo (Rutzau). In some of manors we can find
agrotourism farms for example in: Borkowo Lęborskie (Borkow),
Gościcino (Gossentin), Jackowo (Jatzkow) and Kurowo (Kurow).
Besides, tourists can choose very attractive offers in manors in
Salino (Saulin) and Żarnowiec (Zarnowitz).
The rich and green region at the Gdansk Bay is one of the most
popular touristic destinations in Poland. Which is not a surprise,
because the link between the seaside and the forests and fields,
picturesque little towns and villages with historic Mansions and
Manor Houses are very attractive. This area combines the
advantages of sunbathing, watersports and active holiday with
the joy of cultural and historical attractions. The Hel Peninsula is
unique in European scale and offers pine forests, sand dunes and
a diverse fauna. Puck is a charming small town by the sea, close
by starts the Pomeranian Cistercian Trail and many small villages
with typical local architecture. The Kashubian Jerusalem – the
third oldest calvary in Poland is located in Wejherowo, along with
the famous castle.
The German family von Keyserlingk built Wejherowo (Neustadt)
around 1800. In 1945 they, like most Germans in North
Kashubia, fled the impending Red Army. After the war, the
manor house was used as Citizens’ Militia station, school and
kindergarten for deaf children. Following the reforms of the
1990's it became part of the Museum of Kashubian-Pomeranian
Literature and Music. The variety of the Kashubian manor
houses is enormously. Same is the todays usage. The range is
from luxury restored 5 star hotel to nice and simple holiday
apartments.
Manor Houses in Parseta
River Basin
The river Parseta is around 130km long and is located in the
region of Western Poland. It springs in a place called Parsęcko
and meanders north to Kołobrzeg where it flows into the Baltic
Sea. It flows through riparian forests, meadows and peat bogs.
The Parseta River Basin there is a special habitat protection
zone . The Natura 2000 “Dorzecze Parsęty” area is located
within the districts of Białogard, Kołobrzeg, Koszalin,
Szczecinek, and Świdwin.
It encompasses the areas of the Drawsko Lakeland, through the
Łobez Upland, the Gryfice Plain, the Białogard Plain, to the
Slovincian Coast. The Parsęta River is the main axis of the
region, along with the valleys of its tributaries, such as Pysznica,
Pokrzywnica with Młynówka, Topiel, Mogilica, Bukowa, Dębnica
with Wogra and Lubatówka, Perznica with Łozica, Chwalimka,
Kłuda, and Żegnica. The southern border of the area is marked
with the sources of the Parsęta River near Parsęcko, about 7km
to the north west from Szczecinek, while the northern border
demarcates the neighbourhood of Kołobrzeg and the coast of
the Baltic Sea, to which the river flows.This very diverse area is
worth visiting not only because of natural values. It can be
admired from a kayak, but a part of river sections is navigable
only for experienced canoeists. One can also mount a bike and
go along the “Wzdłuż rzeki Parsęty” trail.
On the route, there are castles, Slavonic fortified towns,
humpbacked bridges made of brick and stone, old mills, old
hydro-technical systems (hydraulic rams), and chapels to be
seen.
21 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Klanino, Photo: Jan Rusek
Apartment Deluxe Palace, Ciekocinko
This region in Western Poland used to be Prussian (German) and the
former landowners built a lot of Manor houses as a residential house
for the large agricultural estates. In its present form, manors in the
area of the Parsęta basin meet several functions.A lot of them are
ruins and are still in the process of decay. Some have been restored
and have nice hotel facilities nowadays. Some are schools, social
welfare houses or training facilities or offer private apartments. If
you are traveling from the West to this region, you may stay in
beautiful Palace of Ryman, a hotel and restaurant, near Gryfice.
The Manor house in Bukówko, now a private hotel facility run by the
former teachers, who taught here, when the house was used as a
school after world war two.
Palace in Karlino, after the Second World War, the building became an
agricultural base and now it is under renovation and it will perform as
a hotel. Pałac Nosowo (Schloss Nassow) was built in neo-Renaissance
architecture by the patrician family of the Holkens from Kołobrzeg in
1850. After that the estate was held by several other families like
von Münchow, the von Heydebreck and von Sprenger families until
1945. Now the Pałac Nosowo, which is located in a nice woody area in
Koszalin County, offers hotels rooms and halls for weddings and
photo: Kasia and Igor at the set of the music video "Zoriuszka"
of the Sound of Triglav project.
celebrations. Kozia Góra (Gutshaus Cosesec) was built by Heinrich
Friedrich von Podewils in Baroque style and a large park.
22 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
By the end of 19th century the palace was rebuilt in a neo-gothic
style, which was so modish at that time. Decorative galleries,
towers and balconies appeared. The south facade is the richest
one, there are knights’ sculptures as well as heraldic cartouches.
The volume (cubature) of the palace amounting over 7800 m2
proves its grandeur. At present the palace is in a state of
renovation, which shall lead to arising of an exclusive hotel. But it
already hosted some concerts and festives. The palaces and
manors (pałac and dwór) are part of the cultural heritage in this
region, that are still at the beginning of the development and
promise a secret treasure soon to be discovered. In Siemczynie
there is a Baroque palace, built between 1722 ans 1726 by Berndt
von der Goltz as the center of a large agricultural estate with a
park and farm buildings. The attraction in the park is the alley with
hornbeam trees. Today it is still under re-construction, the palace
itself hosts two exhibitions, one on the Baroque period and one the
agricultural and peasant life of the days. Opposite the Palace is a
hotel with restaurant, which offers lively cultural events for
visitors and local people.
The Baltic Sea beaches, the Odra River basin, the picturesque
Sudety Mountains, bustling metropolises – Wrocław, Poznań and
Szczecin, and numerous historical towns determine the tourist
attractiveness of Western Poland. Throughout the Parsęta basin
there are cycling and canoeing routes, rivers Radew, Parsęta and
other smaller ones, some lead through the woods and meadows,
others will lead to the Baltic Coast. Trips and horse trips are
organized. If you visit Western Poland, you will soon appreciate the
cultural, natural and spa assets of this region. Heritage attractions
is the Centennial Hall in Wrocław and the Churches of Peace in
Jawor and Świdnica, as well as to outstanding works of wooden
architecture. Let yourself get lost in one of the numerous historical
towns, which will fascinate you with their monuments and
ingenious and well-organised events. Solace for your body you will
find in well-known health resorts–Lądek-Zdrój, Polanica-Zdrój,
Międzyzdroje, Kołobrzeg and Połczyn-Zdrój.
Vintage houses and farm
buildings in the Vistula
Żuławy
The Vistula Żuławy region is a completely flat area with
picturesque landscapes, rich in many tourist attractions,
including i.a. wonderful houses and farm buildings of Dutch
background. Among them we can distinguish two types of
vintage Żuławy farmhouses and manors. The first ones have
usually fronts, doors, portals, windows and windowshields
beautifully carved in wood. The other ones are arcade houses,
which constitute the last so valuable vintage buildings
characteristic for depression terrains. During cycling trips
that can start from nearby Gdansk, you may see various
examples of Żuławy houses and manors, among the arcade
houses we will see not only the smallest, but also the most
conspicuous one. Among many, which are slowly falling into
ruins, there are also those, which are carefully restored and
completely new ones, which were built according to the
ancient design a great number of years ago. In the Żuławy,
apart from houses and farm buildings, it is possible to see
many other historic constructions, such as knights’ manors
and strongholds, gothic churches and their ruins, old
cemeteries and hydrotechnical constructions, that is why
cycling tours are here an interesting pastime, in particular for
families with children or all those, who only start their cycling
adventure.
The cycling tours which are proposed will certainly allow you
to get acquainted with the interesting architecture and
landscape of the Żuławy region. In many places they are
connected with the network of international long distance
EuroVelo cycling routes, what facilitates riding and
orientation in the area. The Żuławy is a region which is still
not very well known among tourists, in particular if we want
to extend the excursion for several days. That is why it is a
good idea to start and finisz the trip in larger cities or towns
such as: Gdańsk, Malbork, Nowy Dwór Gdański, Nowy Staw.
To stay overnight in the region we suggest Cedrowy Dworek.
Where to visit
In Żuławy region, apart from varied architecture the
landscape itself plays a very important role. While riding
across the area on a bicycle we can immediately notice a
complete lack of hills. The other aspect, which is immediately
noticed while rolling over further kilometres is a complete
absence of forests. The only trees are the tall poplar trees
and lush willow trees growing along roads and numerous
irrigation canals.
Between them there are arable fields stretching to horizon,
meadows and pastures, which sparkle with all colours
depending on the season, that is why it is worth to come
here not only in spring or in summer, but also in autumn and
in winter. Architectural sights besides the farm houses and
arcades are Gothic churches, mennonite cemeteries and
windmills.
The arcade, as an architectural element of a farmhouse,
functioned in the Żuławy region since medieval times and
was adopted in later periods by later settlers.
photo:
Folwark at Jackowo - Kashubia, photo: JanRusek
24 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
J a c k o w o
w w w . b a l t i c - m a n o r s . e u
P a l a c e C i e k o c i n k o
w w w . b a l t i c - m a n o r s . e u
wild and free
by Marek Kalisiński
THE KONIK
WILD AND FREE
WORDS & PHOTOS
Marek Kalisiński
www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo
The Konik (in Polish: konik polski) is a primitive horse breed, which means that it inherited from its wild ancestors numerous features that
allow it to survive in harsh conditions and quickly adapt to new surroundings.
Koniks are characterized by high resistance to diseases and
low feed requirements. It is a late-maturing breed (3-5
years), characterized by a strong build, thick and very hairy
skin, short stature (height at the withers 130-140 cm) and
weight from 350 to 400kg. The blue dun coat is a
characteristic trait of the breed. Another marking is a dark
stripe along the back, visible also on the legs. The mane and
tail are heavily hairy and completely black or with a touch of
light hair. The chest is deep and strongly ribbed. They have
hard horn hoofs, which allows them to move on firm ground
without shoeing. The stallions are larger than the mares.
Some individuals live up to 33 years of age, although their
life expectancy is shorter (about 30 years). In free-range
breeding, they form studs led by a stallion or a dominant
mare and the rest of the herd following the rules imposed
by them.
The history of the Polish Konik is intertwined
with the primitive breed of the tarpan (Equus
gmelini), considered by some researchers to be
the wild ancestor of the domestic horse, which
inhabited Eastern Europe and survived in the
wild until the 19th century. The last free-living
representative of this species (whether it was
a tarpan or a feral domestic horse) was killed in
Ukraine in 1879 or 1880, but the real tarpan
certainly died in 1887 in the Moscow Zoo.
In 1780, all the tarpans that lived free in the
Białowieża Primeval Forest and the
surrounding forests were caught and placed in
the zoo of Zamoyski counts in Zwierzyniec,
near Biłgoraj. The tarpans were not considered
to be of utility value and around 1806 they
were caught and handed over to local peasants.
You know...
Photo: Marek Kalisiński
www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo
29 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
At the beginning of the 20th century, when the research was
started in the vicinity of Biłgoraj, it turned out that there were
horses closely resembling the old blue dun tarpans, with a dark
stripe along their backs. Professor Vetulani got interested in
these horses and it was him who introduced the name "Polish
Konik" to the hippological literature; soon it became the
generally accepted name of the breed. Based on research and
observations, he hypothesized that among the tarpans living in
the grasslands of Eastern Europe, a forest form emerged,
which until the 18th century lived in Poland, Lithuania and
Prussia. Even though wild tarpans lived in Polish and Ukrainian
lands until the 19th century, the species disappeared as a
result of mixing with farm horses. In 1923, in the State Stud
Farm in Janów Podlaski and 1928 in the Dworzyszcze farm,
belonging to the Krzemieniecki Secondary School, these horses
were first attempted to be bred. And in 1936, on the initiative
of prof. Vetulani, a reserve of the Polish koniks was created in
Białowieża, where the animals were kept free-range to restore
the forest tarpan by natural selection in semi-wild conditions.
There were 40 individuals in the herd. In addition, in 1938,
three studs were established in the Vilnius Region, where the
best mares and stallions collected in this area were placed.
During the war, other Polish Konik's breeding centres were
established, e.g. in Łuka, in Tarnopol province, in Wacyń near
Radom, Felin near Lublin and Deraźno in Volhynia as well as at the
National Research Institute of Rural Farms in Puławy. During the
war, lots of horses were lost while some were taken to Germany.
After the war, the small number of surviving Polish koniks, including
15 horses from the Białowieża reserve, 14 from the Puławy stud
(PINGW), 7 from the Deraźne stud and a few animals from private
breeding, enabled the restart of breeding. The group of horses
(except the Białowieża stud) used to change their place of
residence quite frequently. A real stable was built for them only
when they moved to Popielno in Masuria in 1949. Soon, it became
the main breeding centre of koniks. In 1955, the Polish Academy of
Sciences took over the stud in Popielno and continued breeding in
the stable system, as well as in the reserve system, thus carrying
out the interrupted experiment of prof. Vetulani. Apart from these
two centres, some small studs, where Polish koniks began to be
raised in the stable system, were established in the 1950s and
1960s. Most of them were closed down and only a few have
survived to the present day, keeping the status of the Polish Konik
conservative breeding centres.
In addition to stable breeding in Poland, the so-called reserve
breeding began to develop in the refuges of the Polish Konik. Apart
from Popielno and Białowieża, it was undertaken by the Roztocze
National Park in Zwierzyniec in 1982 (where the last tarpans were
found).
Thirsty
Photo: Marek Kalisiński
www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo
30 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Then, in 1990, Eliza and Jan Płoński established a refuge in
Zielony Ostrów, in the area of the “Seven Islands” reserve near
Węgorzewo (since 2009, the refuge has been run by the Borki
Forest Inspectorate). The Biebrza National Park started
breeding in 2004, and Aleksander Kowalski established a
sanctuary in the "Barycz Valley" Landscape Park near Milicz in
2007 and the Kliniska Forest District near Goleniów in 2010.
Nowadays, breeding is carried out in three types: stable
(alcove), where horses are under strict human control;
stableless system, where horses stay on pastures all the time,
are tamed and looked after by people and perform various
types of work, and the third form, characterized by the fact
that horses live in the wild, acquire food and reproduce in freerange
and human interference is limited to the necessary
minimum.
At present, Polish koniks are widespread throughout the
country. Their numbers are increasing significantly and we can
meet them not only in Poland, but also in the Netherlands,
Germany, Sweden, France, Belgium and England. A large part
of them is still kept in reservations. Due to their small height,
gentle character, friendly attitude towards people and
willingness to work, they are eagerly used by children as well
as adults and popular in hippotherapy. In the last few decades,
Polish koniks have been used to preserve valuable natural habitats,
where cows grazing or mowing has been stopped, which resulted in
the overgrowing of these areas with shrub and woody vegetation
and the expansion of undesirable species. They play the role of the
so-called live lawnmowers, gnawing and trampling on plants and the
bark of trees, limiting their succession, thus restoring or preserving
meadow and pasture vegetation, which is the only habitat for many
species of birds and other animals, thus increasing biodiversity in a
given area.
I personally had the opportunity to observe Polish koniks and take
pictures of them in the "Szczecin Lagoon Nature Park", which
belongs to the Association for the Coast and is located in
Skoszewskie Meadows lying on the Szczecin Lagoon - the entire
area is included in the European Ecological Network Natura 2000.
They were brought here in 2002 from a surplus of Polish koniks
from the Biebrza National Park. Let me mention that the entire
route (approx. 700 km) they did on their own hooves. A small herd
of 15 horses that came here then, has developed into the current
stud of about 250 animals which makes a great impression on
tourists visiting the Park. I think it is worth visiting such places,
especially now, when there are more and more of them, providing an
opportunity to observe almost wild horses in their natural
environment.
Marek Kalisiński, Szczecin, May 2021
Intimacy
Photo: Marek Kalisiński
www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo
31 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Above: On the way one by one | Below: Young horse in a winter fur
32 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Above: The great three!
| Below: Use the shade of trees to protect themselves from the heat
33 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
The Konik
Do not look at me that way!
Photo: Marek Kalisiński
www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo
crossing the ford
Crossing
Marek Photo: Kalisiński
Marek Kalisiński
www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo
www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo
After the storm
Photo: Marek Kalisiński
www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo
In the mirror
Photo: Marek Kalisiński
www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo
Just try!
Photo: Marek Kalisiński
www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo
Upcoming storm
Photo: Marek Kalisiński
www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo
Sunrise
Photo: Marek Kalisiński
www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo
Rytro has great conditions for long walks
and cycling, as well as for organized horse
riding and skiing trips. In addition, there is
the possibility of observing rare species of
mountain animals and plants along the way.
RYTRO BESKID SĄDECKI
PHOTOS JANUSZ WAŃCZYK
www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk
Rytro is situated on the route of the main tourist trail of the mountains of Beskid Sądecki in a beautiful gorge in the Poprad Valley. From the west, it is
surrounded by wooded hills of the Radziejowa range (1,265m above sea level), and from the east by the Jaworzyna range with Makowica (948m ASL).
Over 70% of the commune's area is covered by forests, which provides a wonderful, clean climate.
The land of Rytro has a several centuries-long
history. The history of the oldest village of Rytro has
been documented since 1312 by the privilege charter
of King Władysław I the Elbow-High, granting to the
Poor Clares from Stary Sącz the right to collect
customs duties on Poprad. We meet the name of
Rytro (Rytter) for the first time in the will of Piotr
Wyżdżga of 1224. He was the owner of the Rytro
Castle, defending the country's borders with
Hungary, and at the same time constituting a
customs house over the land and water routes.
During the castle's splendour, numerous royal
processions (e.g. of Władysław I the Elbow-High,
Casimir the Great, Jadwiga) passed through Rytro.
The ruins of the castle have remained to this day one
of the attractions of the commune for passers-by.
For several years, archaeological and conservation
works on the castle hill have been taking place
The centre of Rytro lies at an altitude of 339 meters
above sea level. The village has particularly good climatic
conditions and is popular as a summer resort and the
seat of numerous camps, resorts and summer
sleepaways. It is a junction of tourist routes and a staging
area for hiking along the main Beskid route from Krynica
to Krościenko. Rytro has great conditions for long walks
and cycling, as well as for organized horse riding and
skiing trips. In addition, there is the possibility of
observing rare species of mountain animals and plants
along the way. The beauty of Rytro nature was described
by Maria Kownacka in the story Rogaś z Doliny Roztoki
(Rogaś Fawn from the Roztoka Valley), still used as a
school reading today. Rytro combines the advantages of
a quiet commune, a mountain tourism base, and an
exclusive holiday destination. There is access to an indoor
swimming pool and spa at the Perła Południa, Jantar, and
Janina hotels, as well as other guest houses.
On photo: Morning fogs - Połom Wyżna hill
51 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
There are also agritourism lodgings and guest rooms in the
commune. Operating since 2005, a modern ski and recreation
centre called Ryterski Raj includes a chairlift, a T-bar lift, a carpet
lift for children, and downhill ski runs with accommodation and
catering facilities. Since 2008, the company ABlandia invites
visitors to try out a professional rope park with several dozen
platforms, footbridges, other obstacles, and ziplining. You can
have a great time there!
Another attraction of the Rytro Commune is river rafting on the
Poprad from Piwniczna to Rytro. Safe boats with tourists cover
the 10-kilometre stretch of the picturesque Poprad valley,
providing an unforgettable experience. An open-air event called
Dni Rytra (Rytro Days) is organized annually for guests and
residents in August.
The commune is situated in the valley of the Poprad Landscape
Park. Short walks through the valleys of Mała and Wielka Roztoka
allow you to easily notice many unique, rare representatives of
local flora and fauna. At the springs of Roztoczanka, the Baniska
reserve was established in 1924, consisting of the protected
stands of beech, fir, spruce, and sycamore.
From the animals living there, lynx have been covered with legal
protection. In the winter, you can often meet wild boar, deer, and
hares in the meadows near the forests. Clear waters of Roztoczanka
are the habitat of brown trout. Below the reserve, a water intake has
been built to provide drinking water to the inhabitants of the
commune. The Roztoka Valley is the last valley of the Beskid Sądecki
that has not been regulated by the channel regulations, thus
preserving the areas of wet meadows and marshes here. They have
become the habitat of several species of amphibians (newts,
salamanders, frogs). About five varieties of orchids can be seen in
this area in the spring. Several species of reptiles (lizards,
blindworms, grass snakes) can be found on the sunny mountain
slopes.
The occurrence of these rare amphibians and reptiles has caused the
Rytro Commune Self-government to establish close cooperation with
the Greenworks Association, resulting in the creation of the
Commune Ecological Park. Clean air, unspoiled, in places even virgin
nature, favours the development of beekeeping. There are about 250
bee stumps in the commune, and beekeepers have the best honey
products. Their specialities include honeydew honey, bee products,
and the increasingly popular Rytro mead, made according to a secret
recipe.
On photo: After the harvest - evening rest time in the Poprad Valley
52 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Activities
Rafting on the Poprad by Boat
Rafting down the Poprad Valley is one of the greatest attractions of
the region. Safe boats have a very shallow draught, which makes it
possible to continue rafting even in case of low water levels. The
boat is controlled by two raftsmen who steer it with wooden poles.
The rafting starts at the marina in Piwniczna at ul.Gąsiorowskiego
(below the suspension bridge) that can be reached by going towards
the border crossing with Slovakia. After about 10km of rafting, the
boats arrive at the marina in Rytro, located near the football field. On
a boat swaying by the rapids of the river, you can admire the
beautiful Beskid landscapes and have an experience that only
raftsmen floating timber or merchants transporting their goods from
Hungary on rafts could have had years ago.
Details: www.splywdolinapopradu.pl
The Lookout Tower on the Top of Radziejowa
Radziejowa (1266m) is the highest peak of the Beskid Sądecki range
and belongs to the Crown of the Polish Mountains. At the top of the
mountain, there is a wooden observation tower, approximately 20-
metres high, offering an unforgettable view.
Ecological Park for the Protection of Amphibians and Reptiles
in Rytro.
The Ecological Park was established in 1996 to protect the unique
habitats of flora and fauna characteristic of wetlands in the
mountains. The area of 0.52 hectares constitutes a habitat for
numerous species of reptiles and amphibians, which are very rare in
many other places of Poland. These are the grass snake, the common
viper, the smooth snake, the slow worm, the sand lizard, and the
viviparous lizard. The group of amphibians is represented by the
common toad, the yellow-bellied toad, the common frog, the tree
frog, the Carpathian newt, the great crested newt, the common
newt, and the mountain newt as well as the spotted salamander. All
animals listed above are protected by law. Two species deserve
particular attention- the endemic Carpathian newt and the smooth
snake (a rare domestic snake).
Ruins of the Castle in Rytro.
The castle, situated on a high hill on the right bank of the Poprad
River, north of the village of Sucha Struga, was probably built at the
turn of the 13th and 14th centuries. Some nineteenth-century
authors suggested that the oldest part of the building (i.e. the stone
tower) might date back to the twelfth century. Currently, however, it
is believed to have come from the thirteenth century. The ruins of
the castle that have remained to this day are one of the main tourist
attractions of the commune. For several years, archaeological and
conservation works on the castle hill have been taking place.
You may have a look at the gallery, showing before and after pictures
of the renovation works, which might encourage you to visit the castle
hill on your own.
The Baniska Reserve is a strict nature reserve located in the area of
the spring cirque of the Bański Creek (Baniska). It is on the northern
slopes of Radziejowa (1266m above sea level) and at the same time in
the area of the Poprad Landscape Park. Baniska is a forest reserve and
it was created to protect the well-preserved original fragment of the
lower mountain zone forest (the Carpathian beech forest) with
specimens of old trees. The oldest ones are estimated to be over 200
years old. In the area of the reserve that was expanded in 2007, there
is a valley landslide, rarely seen in the Carpathians, two elevated
landforms, rock formations, and a landslide lake called Banie or Młaka.
The name of the reserve comes from this lake. There is a drinking
water intake for Rytro at the lower edge of the reserve. The Baniska
reserve can be visited using the educational path called Rogasiowy
Szlak, designated in 2005.
Tourist Trails
Jaworzyna range:
RED TRAIL
Rytro - Makowica - Zadnie Góry - Pisana Hala -
Wierch Nad Kamieniem - Łabowska Hala
(mountain lodge). Walking time: 4 hours
Radziejowa range:
RED TRAIL
Rytro - Mikołaska - Kordowiec - Czekaj -
Niemcowa - Wielki Rogacz - Żłóbki - Radziejowa -
Złomisty Wierch (south) - Złomist Wierch (north)
- Przehyba (mountain lodge).
Walking time: 5.5 hours
BLUE TRAIL
Rytro - Wielka Roztoka - Wdżary - Wietrzne
Dziury - Przehyba (mountain lodge). Walking
time: 3.45 hours
53 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
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elit. Proin sed arcu dui. Aliquam quis ipsum non magna
auctor porta eget sit amet ex. Nulla viverra pulvinar
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Nunc tincidunt nisi justo, at feugiat quam congue sed.
Nulla ipsum enim, pellentesque at ex non, tincidunt
egestas ligula. Curabitur ornare, lacus ut gravida
elementum, diam orci theais. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet,
consectetur adipiscing elit. Mauris varius orci t
empus, iaculis lectus mattis, sagittis mi. In hac habitasse
platea dictumst. Integer a sem enim. Integer sed augue
nibh. Cras auctor purus eget sem lacinia sagittis. Phasellus
at feugiat quam congue sed. Nulla ipsum enim,
pellentesque at ex non. sagittis.
54 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
On photo: Ruins of the Castle in Rytro.
On photo: Field geometry - Mikołaska
RYTRO BESKID SĄDECKI
PHOTOS JANUSZ WAŃCZYK
www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk
On photo: Evening scenery on the Połom hill
56 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
On photo: In the colors of late summer
57 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
After the storm - menacingly and beautifully
Photo: Janusz Wańczyk
www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk
After the storm - menacingly and beautifully
Photo: Janusz Wańczyk
www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk
Rainbow summer
Photo: Janusz Wańczyk
www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk
Przysietnickie fields in the evening light
Photo: Janusz Wańczyk
www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk
Obłazy Ryterskie - the colorful time of lupine
Photo: Janusz Wańczyk
www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk
DISCOVER KRUTYNIA RIVER
A RIVER WITHOUT SECRETS
text source: https://mazury.travel/en
Krutynia
Anyone who has ever travelled the Krutynia route will agree that it is one of
the most beautiful in Poland. And Masuria explored from a canoe is not only an
idyll, but also an exciting adventure.
The Krutynia river starts its course in the Mragowo Lake District, flows out of
Warpuńskie Lake, crosses lakes in the Masurian Plain and ends its course in the
Land of the Great Masurian Lakes. The trail leads through a dozen or so lakes
connected by short rivers, which have been given the common name Krutynia.
The whole trail consists of almost 102 kilometres of marked routes, winding
through picturesque areas, from Sorkwity to Ruciane-Nida. On the trail there are
10 PTTK (Polish Tourist and Sightseeing Society) water stations waiting for us,
where we can rest, eat and stay overnight. Clear water, voices of nature, stunning
views and desertion in some less popular sections of the trail. No matter where
you are at the moment, you will be enchanted.
More than half of the trail runs in the Masurian Landscape Park, and the marked
route runs in the vicinity of 10 nature reserves. This means that here you are
looking at nature and nature is looking at you. The grey heron will accompany you
as you cross the river from Ukta to Bełdany Lake, and if you have a good eye, you
can see the white-tailed eagle and the black stork.
The section of the route from Krutyń to Ukta is considered to be one
of the most beautiful. Sailing 13 km, you will absorb the omnipresent
greenery, delighted and surprised that so little is needed for
happiness. In the initial part of the trail, by the lakes, you will find
charming and secluded beaches and campsites, as well as places
where you can have a tasty meal. But the Krutynia Trail is not only
nature. Following it, it is worth stopping a few times and also looking
at the memories of history. From the fortified settlement of the Old
Prussian tribe of Galindians in Zyndaki, through the Old Believers’
monastery in Wojnowo, to the shelters and fortifications from World
War I and World War II in Ruciane-Nida. The historic Guzianka water
gate is also very impressive.
Whoever comes to Krutynia once, will come back many times.
Stunning greenery, birds singing, the ethereal smell of the forest and
soothing peace and quiet on less frequented sections of the trail.
68 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Recommended
more info: https://kajaki-krutynia.pl/
Spychowo-Zgon
10.5 km long, 3 hours
Zgon-Krutyń
approx. 12.5 km, 4-5 h
The participants of the canoeing trip, together with the canoes, are
transported by buses from Stanica Wodna in Krutynia to Spychów to
the start of the kayaking trip.
The episode begins with Spychowska Struga (here the name of
Krutynia is adopted), which soon flows into Lake Spychowskie.
Keeping to the left side of the lake, we again enter Spychowska
Struga (approx. 4km long), which widens more and more and after a
few kilometers turns into the bay of Lake Zdrużno. Here we stick to
the right bank and, flowing through a narrow isthmus, we get to the
lake. Uplik. It is a very narrow lake with forested shores. After a few
kilometers we reach Lake Wet and the village of Zgon (from chasing
cattle). Keeping to the right, we enter the bay where Stanica Wodna
PTTK in Zgon is located, where, after telephone information, we wait
for the transfer to Krutynia.
Price (transport is included in the price of renting a kayak):
Single kayak: 100 PLN
Double kayak: 110 PLN
Triple kayak: 120 PLN
Canoe: 130 PLN
The participants of the canoeing trip, together with the canoes, are
transported by buses from Stanica Wodna in Krutynia to the hostel in
Zgon for the start of the trip.
There is probably the most difficult stage ahead of us, so I do not
recommend it to beginner canoeists. On Lake Mokre there is often a
high wave, which makes swimming very difficult. We stick to the right
side and swim about 7km (there is a wild camping site in the middle).
We reach the lock between Lakes Mokre and Krutyński. After moving
the kayak, we continue sailing on Lake Krutyński until we reach the
Krutynia River. Just a few more turns and we reach the PTTK
riverside hostel in Krutynia.
Price (transport is included in the price of renting a kayak):
1-seater kayak: 60 PLN
2-seater kayak: 80 PLN
3-seater kayak: 90 PLN
Canoe: 100 PLN
69 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Marcin Nalepka
CASTLES WITH THE TATRA MOUNTAINS
IN THE BACKGROUND
VISIT:
www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka
I'm 40. Photographing is an interesting way for me to spend my free time. I mainly photograph landscapes, but family
photography is also familiar to me. In the pictures I try to show images of interesting places against the natural background
of the Tatra Mountains, including castles and churches. I live in a small town about 100 km in a straight line from the
mountains, so most of the photos were taken from this distance. I use a telephoto lens for photography, which results in
the effect that the mountains are very close. I am from Lesser Poland, hence the idea for castles with the Tatras in the
background.
I also invite you to FB page: Marcin Nalepka Fotografia where you can find more of my photos.
Pictures taken from a distance to the Tatra Mountains:
Castle in Czorsztyn - approx. 30km
Castle in Niedzica - approx. 30km
The castle in Nowy Wiśnicz - approx. 90km
Wawel Castle - approx. 100km
Tenczyn Castle in Rudno - approx. 115km
Castle in Niepołomice approx. -105km
76 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
ROOF
& CASA
HOME AND DECOR
view on Tatra Mountains
via The Royal Castle at the Wawel Hill Kraków
Wawel is a limestone hill in the centre of Kraków upon the Vistula River with a complex of impressive historical monuments of unique
historical and artistic values. This extraordinary sanctuary determines the Poles' identity, is their national and cultural symbol.
The Royal Castle at the
Wawel Hill
approximately 100km from Tatra Mountains
The Wawel Royal Castle and the Wawel Hill
constitute the most historically and culturally
important site in Po land.
For centuries the residence of the kings of
Poland and the symbol of Polish statehood,
the Castle is now one of the country's
premier art museums. Established in 1930,
the museum encompasses ten curatorial
departments responsible for collections of
paintings, including an important collection
of Italian Renaissance paintings, prints,
sculpture, textiles, among them the
Sigismund II Augustus tapestry collection,
goldsmith’s work, arms and armor, ceramics,
Meissen porcelain, and period furniture. The
museum’s holdings in oriental art include the
largest collection of Ottoman tents in
Europe. With seven specialized conservation
studios, the museum is also an important
center for the conservation of works of art.
Over one million visitors tour the Castle's
permanent collections and temporary
exhibitions each year, while an estimated
two million visit the Wawel Hill. The Castle’s
permanent exhibitions recreate the
appearance of the royal residence in the
Renaissance and Baroque eras.
About 20,000 schoolchildren yearly
participate in dedicated museum lessons. In
addition, many children at tend workshops
and take part in academic and artistic
competitions.
The Wawel Royal Castle also hosts a lively
program of events including symphonic and
chamber music concerts and performances
of opera and courtly dance.
The visitor center holds cafés, shops, and
other visitor services.
Photo: Marcin Nalepka
www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka
79 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Castle in Nowy Wiśnicz
(New Wiśnicz)
approximately 90km from Tatra Mountains
Castle in Nowy Wiśnicz is the largest
preserved Baroque fortified residence in
Poland.
The huge castle in Wiśnicz is visible from
afar. This medieval building after alterations
by Piotr Kmita in the 16th century was
transformed into a renaissance residence.
Further restructuring works were ordered by
Stanislaus Lubomirski after the year 1615
when additional fortifications with five
bastions were added to the castle. Also at
this time, eighty cannons were placed on the
new fortifications. As a result, Wiśnicz Castle
became one of the most powerful
strongholds in Poland. The castle in spite of
its fortifications did not withstand the
strength of the Swedish army which invaded
Poland in the period now known as the
“Potop” (flood). At that time one hundred
and fifty wagonloads of booty were taken
out of the castle. In the renovated interiors
there is an exhibition recounting the history
of the castle, a collection of copper vessels,
and a collection of models of Polish castles
plus a sarcophagus of Stanislaus Lubomirski
Photo: Marcin Nalepka
www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka
81 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Czorsztyn
approximately 30km from Tatra Mountains
The castle was located on the left bank of
the Dunajec, on a hill falling down steep
slopes towards the river. They protected the
building from all sides except the north-east,
where the approach was more gentle and
where the outer bailey developed later.
The original buildings from the second half
of the 13th century, occupying the top of the
hill, were wood and earth. Probably at the
end of the 13th or the beginning of the 14th
century a free-standing cylindrical tower
with a diameter of 10 meters and a wall
thickness at the base of 3.5 meters was
erected from unworked limestone in the
northern part of the castle. Initially, it
probably created a system of fortifications
together with earth and wood fortifications.
Interestingly, it was not built like a typical
bergfried at the culmination of the hill, but
slightly lower, on the edge of the rock, so it
could defend the approach to the hill.
The castle has been preserved in the form of
a ruin with the main element in the form of a
seventeenth century, foursided tower. After
carrying out conservation works in recent
years, it is now open to visitors.
Photo: Marcin Nalepka
www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka
83 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Tenczyn Castle in Rudno
approximately 115 km from Tatra Mountains
Tenczyn Castle, also known as Tęczyn Castle, is
a medieval castle in the village of Rudno in the
Polish Jura, Poland. It was built as a seat of the
powerful Tęczyński family. The castle fell into
disrepair during the Deluge in mid-17th century,
after being pillaged and burned by Swedish-
Brandenburgian forces looking for the Polish
Crown Jewels and rumored treasures of the
Tęczyński family. Subsequently rebuilt, it again
fell into disrepair after a major fire in the mid-
18th century and remains in that state to this
day.
The castle stands on the remnants of a
Permian period lava stream, the highest hill of
Garb Tenczyński (Castle Hill), which is 411 m
above the sea level.
The first mention of the stronghold in writing
is dated to 24 September 1308, when King
Władysław I the Elbow-high, who was hunting
in the woods around Thanczin, issued a diploma
to the Cistercian monastery in Sulejów. It is
believed that the first wooden castle structure
was erected around 1319 by Jan Nawój of
Morawica, Castellan of Cracow.
After the fire in 1768, the structure
increasingly fell into disrepair. In 1783, the
remains of Jan Magnus Tęczyński were moved
from the castle chapel to a new tomb in St.
Catherine's Church in Tenczynek. In 1816, the
castle became the property of the Potocki
family and remained in their hands until the
outbreak of World War II in 1939.
Photo: Marcin Nalepka
www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka
85 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
The Royal Castle
in Niepołomice
approximately 105km from Tatra Mountains
The castle in Niepołomice began as one of
many fortifications throughout Małopolska
initiated by King Kazimierz the Great in the
14th century, however this one soon became
his favourite residence which he used as a
retreat from the royal seat in Kraków.
Kazimierz wasn’t the only king to favour the
isolated outpost however, as his successors all
invested themselves in further embellishing and
expanding the castle into a magnificent royal
residence where much time was spent. The
castle’s heyday came during the rule of
Władysław Jagiełło who held meetings of the
royal council here, often entertaining foreign
dignitaries and passing official court
judgements from Niepołomice rather than
Wawel. It was also from here that the famous
royal hunts set out, bringing back the big game
trophies of bison, bears and boars that would
line the castle halls. In the mid-16th century
King Zygmunt August rebuilt the residence on
the model of contemporary Renaissance
palaces – the appearance of which has been
restored today. The ‘Second Wawel’ (as it was
known) maintained its splendour for another
hundred years before the Swedish deluge
brought an end to its golden age and, along
with the country, the castle gradually fell into
ruin during Poland’s eras of partition and
occupation.
A long and costly reconstruction began in 1991
and was finally completed in 2007. Today the
castle is a multi-functional space hosting
several museum exhibits, an excellent
restaurant, 3-star boutique hotel, spa and
conference facilities. Despite all that however,
the space retains its authentic historical
character. Perfect for a family outing, across
from the Castle entrance is a park with a large
playground, Queen Bona's picturesque gardens
lie beside, and the Wisła River flows just
beyond it
Photo: Marcin Nalepka
www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka
87 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Cycling in Małopolska Beskid
Sądecki Part 2 www.odkryjbeskid.pl
www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid
Sleep. Eat. Go cycling. Repeat!
Text, graphics and description: Patrycja Furca, Maciej Iwan (Facebook:
Koło Południa), Konrad Rogoziński, Grzegorz Ślęczek
(www.turbobikes.pl).
photos: Konrad Rogoziński
cyclists: Patrycja Furca and Łukasz Świętach
Health has many names, one of which is cycling and bicycle touring. It
is widely known that regular physical activity brings positive effects.
Burning fat, improving efficiency, reducing stress, better sleep, and
well-being are just some of them.
Unfortunately, most people associate the bike with all-day weekend
trips and ride sporadically... It doesn't have to be that way! Thanks to
the bicycle paths which in recent years have grown up in the Nowy
Sącz region like mushrooms after the rain, our two-tracks can
accompany us every day during commuting to work or afternoon rides.
For example, the distance by the bicycle path from the market square
in Nowy Sącz to "Bobrowisko" (the beaver farm) in Stary Sącz we can
cover back and forth in less than 1.5 hours at a recreational pace. This
means that we force the body to exercise, admire the panorama of the
Beskid Sądecki, relax the exhausted mind, and observe the wild fauna
and flora in "Bobrowisko" during the layover. And all of that for free!
In addition, we get something priceless that each of us dreams of -
health!
Live slowly! Ride fast!
In the life of almost every cycling enthusiast, there comes a moment
when recreational riding begins to turn into something more
professional. What does more professional mean? We start to ride
faster and farther, we look for information on the internet forums on
the right outfit, accessories and riding technique, so we become more
aware of what we are doing. Therefore, at this point, it is worth
installing a sports application on your smartphone (currently, after the
fall of Endomondo, Strava is the leader among cyclists) or getting an
activity monitor or a meter, thanks to which we will be able to save
and analyse our achievements. This will give us a picture of how many
kilometres we have travelled, what was the sum of the altitude
difference, how much energy we have used and whether we are
making any progress. A big advantage will be the addition of data from
the heart rate monitor to our achievements as it will allow more
insightful information about our condition.
Krakow
Warszawa
Beskid Sądecki
Rzeszów
www.bit.ly/velomaps
www.odkryjbeskid.pl
www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid
Sleep. Eat. Go cycling. Repeat!
In the entire cycling world, it is all about the balance between
sleep, proper diet and training. In simple terms, this means
that in addition to cycling, we should also have the right
amount of sleep and a healthy diet that will allow us to
maintain balance in our body and give us a chance to break
new boundaries. Let's start taking care of ourselves today!
So what if not the best rider – at least looks great!
As it is said - there is nothing that makes us real cyclists more than
professional, colourful clothing! But we deny these rumours! In cycling
outfits, the most important thing is mobility and thermal comfort.
They don't have to be brand-name, tight-fitting outfits. The most
important thing is to dress in layers. During long climbs, we cannot
overheat while during the descents it is necessary to have something
to put on, not to catch a chill - after all, we care about our health! The
only rule that must be strictly followed is to avoid cotton clothes as
they dry very slowly after sweating and instead of heating, might cool
the body even more. A good solution includes, therefore, all kinds of
synthetic materials such as polyester, polyamide, elastane and Lycra
photo: Konrad Rogoziński
89 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Road 1
Two ranges - a classic MTB expedition along the ridges of the
Beskid Sądecki, i.e. from Krynica to Stary Sącz along the Jaworzyna
and Radziejowa ranges
Czarny Potok / Krynica - Jaworzyna - Hala Łabowska - Cyrla - Rytro
- Przehyba (blue trail) and downhill along the yellow trail to Stary
Sącz (return to Krynica by train)
About 60 km, 6 hours ride, 2,200 m of climbs
Paśniki: Jaworzyna 4 km. Hala Łabowska 16 km, Cyrla 25 km, Rytro
29 km, Przehyba 40 km
Description of the route / for whom
Two hearty trips, long ridge sections, varied surface, a
descent from Przehyba (the best flow in the Nowy Sącz
region) for a dessert and guaranteed unforgettable views.
It is an adventure for everyone who wants to prove
themselves. A mountain bike with front suspension is enough
to cycle this route. Better equipment will certainly improve
comfort, especially on descents, which you certainly will not
miss here. This is not a trip for the beginners, even on e-
bikes. It requires basic mountaineering skills and MTB
training. The pavements include stony forest paths, dirt
paths and asphalt roads for relax, at the end of the route, on
the way to Stary Sącz. There are two challenging climbs on
the route. The first to Jaworzyna from the Czarny Potok
valley, the second to Przehyba from Rytro. If you like the
cuisine in mountain lodges, it's not worth taking too many
supplies in your backpack. We will pass some perfect places
to rest and regenerate. The first section of the route to
Rytro is a ride in the Beskid climate, stones, forest and a
view from time to time☺ The descent is a technically nondemanding
section along the access road to Cyrla shelter.
From Rytro, we leave for the Radziejowa range along the
blue trail. It is worth keeping some energy at the end of the
trip because the ride down the yellow trail to Przysietnica is
the essence of cycling fun. It is worth setting off on the
route early so that you can catch the afternoon train back to
Krynica.
Description for electric bikes:
The very essence of MTB in the old, classic style, i.e. a long
journey that will allow you to understand why you bought or
rented an e-bike.
Charging places: Make sure to plan a stop to feed yourself and
the bike. With a 500 Wh battery, you should have no problem
with reaching Rytro. If you don't like stops in the valley, you can
recharge on Cyrla. (In the shelter at Hala Łabowska, charging is
problematic – there is no access to the power grid).
Why is it worth taking this route? For the views, the fun of
being in the mountains itself, to check your skills and abilities
and for the gastronomic flavours of the shelter's cuisine.
Description for analog bikes:
Fortunately, there are several shelters along the way so we
can replace some of the lost calories. Long climbs will surely
be remembered, but a light bike will give you more fun when
descending from Przehyba
photo: Konrad Rogoziński
90 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
photo: Konrad Rogoziński
91 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Road 2 | Tourist Muszynska Loop
Information on the legibility of route markings
Why is it worth taking this route?
You will have the opportunity to visit unique, wooden Orthodox
churches
from the UNESCO list.
The route on the section Muszyna-Dubne and Wojkowa-Muszyna is very
well marked both in terms of legibility and the number of signs. The forest
section of Dubne-Wojkowa, due to the windbreaks from the beginning of
2019 and forest works, requires the cyclist to pay more attention. In the
section from the junction behind Wojkowa with the route to Powroźnik -
Muszyna, the trail coincides with the Cross-Border Bicycle Trail.
You will ride one of the wildest mountain routes in the Polish Beskids
(Leluchowskie Mountains).
You will ride through two beautiful river valleys, the Poprad and the
Muszynka river valleys.
Tourist Muszynska Loop is mainly a red cycling trail, forming loops
around Muszyna. It runs through Muszyna, Leluchów, Dubne, Wojkowa
and Powroźnik.
Let's go!
We can start the route at the railway station in Muszyna, at ul.
Piłsudskiego. We can get there by train or by car. For larger
vehicles, I recommend parking at ul. Zazamcze, about 3 km from
the railway station. Then we go south along the asphalt road,
towards the border crossing in Leluchów. Before the first more
serious, long and steep ascents, you can stop at the "limestone"
mineral water spring to replenish fluids and supplies for the road.
On the trail of wooden churches.
After 7.5 kilometres of quite tiring route we reach Leluchów. We
go straight ahead until the border crossing. Later, after a few
dozen meters, we turn left at the marketplace that is often
organized here. While in the village, it is worth going up the hill
and visiting St. Dimitri Church. Then, we continue down the
asphalt road, along the state border, to the village of Dubne. Here
we have another church worth attention - St. Michael the
Archangel's Church. Near the church, picturesque estates with
interesting architecture. We follow the road to the end and enter
the forest. At this point, periodically (during tree logging),
considerable difficulties may occur (after rainfall, a lot of mud).
This is also a place of the greatest elevation, reaching the highest
point of the route.
photo: Patrycja Furca
Then a nice ride down, along a wide forest road. Be careful at its
end, before you reach mountain meadows. The trail turns at 90°
here and runs steeply down at the edge of the forest. Another
church in Wojkowa - St. Kosma and Damian's Church, with an
interesting bell tower. Further along the asphalt road, we reach the
intersection with the Powroźnik -Tylicz road. We turn left towards
Powroźnik. Before the railway crossing, we turn left again to visit
the next church - St. Jacob's Church. Right next to it, there is a
pump room with a gazebo and a small park. Then, keeping to the
road signs, we reach the provincial road 971. Then, we cycle
towards Muszyna. After 1.2 km, we turn right, through the railway
crossing and then over the bridge on the Muszynka. After that, we
turn left to find the bicycle path leading to Muszyna itself. On the
way, in front of the Tower, we have MOR. You can also refill water
from Anna spring here. From there, we get to the railway station
over the bridge (turning left), right behind it, under the railway
bridge. If we left the bus on ul. Zazamcze, we need to turn right
twice and after cycling a few hundred meters, we are there
92 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Information on the legibility of route markings
The route on the section Muszyna-Dubne and Wojkowa-Muszyna is very well
marked both in terms of legibility and the number of signs. The forest section
of Dubne-Wojkowa, due to the windbreaks from the beginning of 2019 and
forest works, requires the cyclist to pay more attention. In the section from the
junction behind Wojkowa with the route to Powroźnik - Muszyna, the trail
coincides with the Cross-Border Bicycle Trail.
photo: Konrad Rogoziński
93 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Road 3 | Two ranges
- the crown of MTB
From Krynica to Stary Sącz along Jaworzyna and Radziejowa ranges
Czarny Potok / Krynica - Jaworzyna - Hala Łabowska - Cyrla - Rytro -
Przehyba (blue trail) and downhill along the yellow trail to Stary Sącz
(return by train)
About 60km, 6 hours ride, 2,200m of climbs
Paśniki: Jaworzyna 4km. Hala Łabowska 16km, Cyrla 25km, Rytro
29km, Przehyba 40km
Route description
Two hearty trips, long ridge sections, varied surface, a descent
from Przehyba (the best flow in the Nowy Sącz region) for a
dessert and guaranteed unforgettable views.
It is an adventure for everyone who wants to prove themselves. A
mountain bike with front suspension is enough to cycle this route.
Better equipment will certainly improve the comfort of the ride,
especially on descents, which you certainly will not miss here.
This is not a trip for the beginners, even on an electric bike. It
requires basic mountaineering skills and MTB training. The
pavements include stony forest paths, dirt paths and asphalt
roads for relaxing, at the end of the route, on the way to Stary
Sącz.
There are two challenging climbs on the route. The first to
Jaworzyna from the Czarny Potok valley, the second to Przehyba
from Rytro.
Description for electric bikes:
The very essence of MTB in the old classic style, i.e. a perfect long trip
that will allow you to understand what you are buying or renting an
electrician for. Two hearty trips, long ridge sections, varied surface and
a downhill ride from Przehyba (the best flow in the Nowy Sącz region)
for a dessert. Unforgettable views guaranteed.
Charging places: Probably you won't make it without a stop to feed
yourself and the bike. With a 500 Wh battery, you should have no
problem with reaching Rytro. If you don't like valley stops, you can
recharge your electric bike on Cyrla. Attention! Due to the lack of access
to the power grid, charging in the shelter at Hala Łabowska is
problematic.
If you like the cuisine in mountain lodges, it's not worth taking
too many supplies in your backpack. On the way, we will pass
some perfect places to rest and regenerate.
The first section of the route to Rytro is a ride in the Beskid
climate: stones, forest and views from time to time. The descent
is a technically non-demanding section along the access road to
Cyrla shelter. From Rytro, we leave for the Radziejowa range
along the blue trail. It is worth keeping some energy at the end of
the trip because the ride down the yellow trail to Przysietnica is
the essence of cycling fun. It is worth setting off on the route
early so that you can catch the afternoon train back to Krynica.
Why is it worth taking this route? For the views, the fun of being
in the mountains itself, to check your skills and abilities and for
the gastronomic flavours of the shelter's cuisine.
94 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Description for analog bikes:
Fortunately, there are several shelters along the way so we can replace some of the lost calories. Long climbs
will surely be remembered. A light bike will give you more fun during downhill ride from Przehyba.
photo: Konrad Rogoziński
95 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
photo: Konrad Rogoziński
www.odkryjbeskid.pl
www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid
photo: Konrad Rogoziński
www.odkryjbeskid.pl
www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid
Jan Kochanowski Museum
Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl
The Museum, devoted to Renaissance poet Jan Kochanowski, is located in a classical 19th century manor house called Jabłonowski
(designed by Jakub Kubicki), and is surrounded by a beautiful, English-style park. The exhibition is displayed across six halls, with items
presenting the life and work of the poet and father of national Polish literature. The Renaissance material items shown (such as
furniture, ceramics and an engagement ring) form a background to the creative figure of Jan Kochanowski and his literary works. In
addition, collected works of Polish poets and writers of the era illustrate the development of Polish art and culture in the 16th century.
Woodcut scenes of cities depict the writer’s foreign travels and excursions, and excerpts from his various works, displayed in the
exhibition halls, emphasise the values of his life and his preoccupation with the richness of language.
The park has a neo-Gothic chapel, and in the place where once stood the famous lime tree mentioned in the poet’s works, there now
stands a commemorative obelisk. Erected in 1980, a bronze statue of Jan Kochanowski welcomes the visitors to the house. Each June,
the town of Czarnolas hosts events such as 'Days of Jan Kochanowski's Works', 'Czarnolas Renaissance Days' and 'Czarnolas
Saturdays'.
Branch of the Jacek Malczewski Museum in Radom.
Location: approximately 110 km south of Warsaw.
Access by private transport.
Czarnolas
26-720 Warszawa
State: MAZOWIECKIE
Latitude: 52.2296756 Longitude: 21.0122287
100 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
The exhibition presents the life
and work of the poet and father
of national Polish literature.
text source: culture.pl
Poet, translator and playwright. Born 1530 in Sycyna, died 1584
in Lublin. The greatest Polish and a major European Renaissance
man of letters whose poetic genius was the first of such
brilliance in Poland and remained the only one until the explosion
of talent in Romanticism.
Jan Kochanowski, of the noble clan of Korwin, was born in
Sycyna. The exact date – day and month – is unknown. He was a
son of Piotr Kochanowski, Sandomierz lawyer and judge, and
Anna Białaczowska. According to Julian Krzyżanowski, the
distinguished historian of literature whose sources must have
been credible, Jan's father was a miser and a scrooge. It must
have been the circumstances that have forced him to be that. A
squire of average means, he had to support a particularly large
family, Jan having had eleven brothers and sisters. Two of his
brothers, Mikołaj and Andrzej, also tried their hand in literature,
though their talent and fame were nowhere near those of Jan's.
Andrzej is noted in the history of literature mostly for his
translation of Vergil's Aeneid, while Mikołaj is remembered for
his rendering of Plutarch's Moralia.
To make a career, a nobleman of medium wealth had to follow
the path leading through learning and magnate courts, and so in
1544 Kochanowski was admitted to the liberal arts department
at the Krakow Academy. Although he was ultimately not to earn
an academic degree, he found himself in one of Europe's major
centres of humanism. He then continued his studies in Królewiec
and Padua. While in Królewiec (in 1551-52 and 1555-56), he was
associated with the court of Albrecht, the Prussian duke and
Polish senator, his likely sponsor. Incidentally, Albrecht was a
major and mighty protector of the Polish Reformation.
Kochanowski stayed in Padua three times, in 1552-55, 1556-57
and 1558-59, studying under such distinguished humanists as
Francesco Robortello and Bernardino Tomitano. He made friends
with Łukasz Górnicki, Stanisław Porębski and Andrzej Nidecki,
the leading Polish humanists, and stayed friends with them after
his return to Poland. More importantly, though, he greatly
expanded his classical education, absorbing Renaissance ideas,
Italy being their birthplace and leading centre. Upon return from
his last stay in Padua, he travelled across France and Germany,
meeting in France Pierre Ronsard, the greatest poet of French
Renaissance and champion of vernacular literature.
Upon his return to Poland in 1559, Kochanowski started the
career of a courtier at eminent aristocratic families, such as the
Tarnowskis, the Tęczyńskis and the Firlejs.
Lament 1
Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl
All Heraclitus' tears, all threnodies
And plaintive dirges of Simonides,
All keens and slow airs in the world, all griefs,
Wrung hands, wet eyes, laments and epitaphs,
All, all assemble, come from every quarter,
Help me to mourn my small girl, my dear daughter,
Whom cruel Death tore up with such wild force
Out of my life, it left me no recourse.
So the snake, when he finds a hidden nest
Of fledgling nightingales, rears and strikes fast
Repeatedly, while the poor mother bird
Tries to distract him with a fierce, absurd
Fluttering — but in vain! the venomous tongue
Darts, and she must retreat on ruffled wing.
"You weep in vain," my friends will say. But then,
What is not in vain, by God, in lives of men?
All is in vain! We play at blindman's buff
Until hard edges break into our path.
Man's life is error. Where, then, is relief?
In shedding tears or wrestling down my grief?
From the Stanisław Barańczak-Seamus Heaney translation, p. 3.
101 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
With Bishop Piotr Myszkowski's backing, he was appointed
courtier and secretary at the royal court of Sigismund-August in
1563. His attitude to the king was ambivalent, his writings
revealing both approval and disappointment; the latter may have
been triggered by inadequate development of his career. He
accompanied the king during the military maneuvers in Lithuania
in 1567, targeted against Ivan the Terrible, and at the Sejm
proceedings in Lublin when the Union of Lublin was reached
(1568, 1569). After the death of Sigismund-August, Kochanowski
sided with Henri Valois, taking part in his coronation in 1573.
After the king's shameful flight from Poland, his disappointment
prompted him to give up courtly life. Although he did not
consider his courtier career particularly successful, he finished it
as a wealthy man, owing in part to the then quite common
practice of lay ecclesiastical career. The backing of Bishop Piotr
Myszkowski had helped Kochanowski to become a parish priest
in Poznań and Zwoleń. He paid chaplains to do pastoral work for
him, while he earned profit by collecting tithes from town land
and noble villages. He parted with the parish priesthood when he
gave up the courtier career. Though he never returned to the
royal court, he approved of Stefan Batory and his political
conceptions.
He settled in Czarnolas, his father's property, and married
Dorota Podlodowska in 1575. Of the six daughters she bore him,
three died in infancy. The only son was born after Kochanowski's
death.
Despite the tragedy of losing children, life in Czarnolas was
peaceful and harmonious. This found reflection in Kochanowski's
work, rich and mature in those years. The poet died a sudden
death at the age of 54, his creative powers at their peak. He
suffered a heart attack in Lublin, where he had arrived hopeful for
king's assistance with the case of his wife's brother who had been
murdered in Turkey.
The funeral, which took place in Lublin, was attended by many
secular and Church dignitaries as well as by king Stefan Batory.
Kochanowski was laid to rest in the chapel of the Zwoleń church,
next to his parents. The tombstone with his effigy is still there.
Renaissance culture flourished in Krakow, at magnate courts and,
more than anywhere, in Italy in Kochanowski's times. A reaction to
dogmatic Middle Ages, Renaissance humanism evoked the
standards of antique culture and propounded freedom of human
reason and the right to intellectual independence in studying the
world. Priority was given to man who was unrestricted and
aspired to the Hellenistic ideal of harmony. Humanism's top
maxim 'homo sum, a me alienum esse puto' ('I am a human being,
so nothing human is strange to me') expressed affirmation of all
areas of human existence: the spiritual, the corporeal, and the
social. Contrary to the medieval ideal of asceticism, man was
given the right to happiness, yet was expected to aspire to
perfection.
Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl
102 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
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103 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
life &
poetry
The Renaissance opposition to medieval dogmas and insistence
on independent pursuit of truth created a climate conducive to
the reformatory movement in the Church. The movement
attacked the Church for being dogmatic and intellectually
petrified; law-abiding Catholics attacked it for greed, unjustified
riches and chaplains' inappropriate lifestyle. This and the sense
of threat to doctrine and authority made Pope Paul III convene a
Council in Trent. Debating intermittently in 1545-63, the Council
was to work out unambiguous interpretations of the Catholic
doctrine and propose an organizational reform of the Church.
The Reformation flourished in Poland, too, with its numerous
Calvinist and Lutheran churches doing well even after king
Sigismund-August adopted the decisions of the Council of Trent.
The struggle against the intellectual as well as
economic domination of the Church was closely
related to the powerful nobility movement called
'the execution of rights'. It was at its peak when
Kochanowski returned from Padua. The nobility, its
wealth rising, education improving and privileges
growing, fought to dominate the state. Access to
the sea gained after the defeat of the Teutonic
Order opened to it major European trade routes.
Intellectual and religious commotion at magnate
courts and at reformed churches as well as the
highly popular political writings of Łukasz Górnicki,
Andrzej Frycz-Modrzewski, Stanisław Orzechowski
Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl
life &
poetry
and others raised common interest in political and social matters. Increasingly conscious of
its power, the nobility aimed to reduce royal prerogatives and domination of the magnates
and the Church, and managed to abolish church courts and to considerably reduce property
privileges due to royal endowments for aristocratic families and Church dignitaries.
In accordance with the principle 'homo sum...', all the major themes of the time found
reflection in Kochanowski's work, from philosophical musings over human life to political
and social issues to scenes from court and gentry life to stories shared at meals.
Kochanowski had started to write in Italy, using sophisticated Latin to create odes, songs,
elegies and epigrams. Not everything survived; whatever did was published with his later
Latin works in Kraków in 1584 as Elegiarum libri IV.
The vast majority of his work is, however, in Polish. His conscious choice, it agreed with the
Renaissance trend to write in vernacular and caused the Polish language to undergo a
quality change in mere thirty years. The Polish of Kochanowski and the later Polish is
different from what it was before. There had never been such a profound linguistic
revolution in Polish history. Kochanowski was aware of his role in literature and of the role
of a poet. He was the first to formulate the ethos of the artist whose talent, a gift from
God, is both a privilege, a duty, and a suffering.
Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl
He expressed it most forcefully in the poem Muza(The Muse), his literary manifesto dating
probably from ca. 1570 and professing faith in the immortality of his poetry, a sense of a
unique mission and of greatness which makes one responsible to the world and lonely at
the summit. The poem pays a tribute to Bishop Piotr Myszkowski, who generously
supported the poet, enabling him to work unencumbered, and expresses gratitude for the
patronage of the enlightened and the wealthy who contribute to the development of
culture. Indeed, the institution of patronage was known before, but it flourished
particularly well in the Renaissance and was maintained in the following centuries.
One of Kochanowski's earliest Polish-language works was his hymn Czego Chcesz Od Nas
Panie Za Twe Hojne Dary (What wilt thou from us, O Lord, for thy generous gifts?). Some
sources suggest it was written before Kochanowski returned to Poland and was sent from
Paris. As a poetic form, the hymn was common in the Middle Ages. Addressed to God or a
saint, it expressed subjection, conveyed a sense of insignificance of mortal beings and
pleaded for intercession. Kochanowski's hymn is a beautiful expression of man's gratitude
to the Creator for the beauty and harmony of the world. The poet's God is not a strict,
punishing Father, but a Big Artist who has made the riches of Nature and the beauty of all
beings. It was noted that such God was not really attributable to a specific religion, his
image having no Catholic-specific features. The hymn, written in thirteen-syllable, rigorous
and at the same time natural and melodious verse, became very popular and made it to
Catholic and Protestant songbooks alike.
In his court period Kochanowski started to write Fraszki
(Trifles), minor poems with sharp points, their tradition
going back to antique epigrams and Anacreontics.
Continuing to write them throughout his life, he covered
a vast spectrum of themes, from philosophical musings,
praise of court and gentry life, the beauty of women,
portraits of friends and acquaintances to anecdotes
from social life. Fraszki provide a superb, vivid image of
the customs and lifestyle of the time, their sharp and
succinct language being the only area where the poet
ventured a little bit of noble bawdiness.
Kochanowski mostly wrote narrative poems in his court
period. Highly diverse, they ranged from incidental
poems to political and social essays. Among the former
stand out the epitaths O Śmierci Jana Tarnowskiego
(On the Death of Jan Tarnowski) and Pamiątka
Wszytkimi Cnotami Hojnie Obdarzonemu Janowi
Baptyscie Na Tęczynie (In Memory of Jan Baptysta of
Tęczyn, Generously Endowed with All Virtues).
Incidental poems, dedicated to statesmen whom
Kochanowski truly respected, were not intended as
flattery, but emphasized virtues such as patriotism,
valiance, wisdom, integrity and ability to sustain
friendship.
The funny poem Zuzanna Przypisane Jej M. Paniej
Elżbiecie Z Szydłowca(Zuzanna, Ascribed to the
Honourable Elżbieta of Szydłowiec) is quite a perverse
praise of woman's virtue. Broda (The Beard) is an
argument for supremacy between feminine virtue and
moustache.
Kochanowski's major contribution to Polish culture was
Psałterz Dawidów (David's Psalter). Not so much a
translation as a free paraphrase of the Biblical Book of
Psalms, it took the poet many years to complete and
involved some serious philological studies of various
Greek and Latin translations. Written in varied and rich
verse, it contains philosophical and personal themes
alongside the core religious aspect.
The Psalms had been paraphrased before (for instance
by Mikołaj Rej), but it was owing to Kochanowski that
they gained a perfect Renaissance form and expressed
the Renaissance concept of God who transcends
religions. They have consequently become prayer
literature recognized by Catholics and Protestants alike,
especially after the accomplished composer Mikołaj
Gomółka wrote music to them in 1580 under the title of
Melodie Na Psałterz Polski (Melodies to the Polish
Psalter).
Kochanowski's lyrical talent manifested itself best in
Pieśni (The Songs). He wrote them throughout his life,
and they dominated his work in Czarnolas. After all,
landowner's life was particularly close to the ideals of
Horace's 'golden measure', and Horace was for
Kochanowski a role model both in terms of outlook on
life and poetry
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- STRAWBERRIES BY KAMILA ROSIŃSKA -
TRANSLATION: LIBRES, CONSULTATION: AMBER ACOSTA
STRAWBERRY
It was a beautiful, sunny day and the azure sky stretched
majestically over the Old Mill Valley. The surface of Lake of
Truth, delicately ruffled by the gusts of wind, sparkled in the
gentle rays. The summer breeze danced between the
shutters, which squeaked rhythmically as they surrendered
to it.
Suddenly, there was a knock on the window. Sisters Tosia and Zosia ran
out onto the porch of the old mill, thinking that it must be an unexpected
guest. However, there was nobody.
Instead, there was a large wicker basket with strawberries on the
doorstep.
- They look so tasty... I guess no one will be angry if I try one of them?
Tosia said. So she did as she thought, and instantly she turned into a red,
tiny strawberry that fell into the basket, vanishing among the other fruits.
- Oh no! - Zosia exclaimed, scared.
- Tosia?! Tosia! The girl kept calling, but instead of her sister, there was a
wicker basket in front of her, filled to the brim with juicy strawberries,
shimmering in the sun.
- Which of you is my Tosia? How do I recognize you, little sister? The
crying girl continued to call.
A downy old Owl saw the whole incident from her tree.
- Hoo-hoo-hooooo, don't cry baby. Before the sun goes down behind Lake
of Truth, you and your sister will see each other again. Having this said,
the Owl turned its old, feathered head and sprang to flight majestically,
flapping its great wings.
- Cold comfort - Zosia snorted - I think I have to take you home as
someone else might be tempted and accidentally eat my little Tosia -
Zosia said quietly, picking up the basket with strawberries.
But what's that?! Boom!!!
Zosia fell stumbling over the threshold, and all the strawberries rolled
down the wooden floor of the mill. The girl picked them up quickly and
gently set the basket on the table.
"I have to leave you here for a while," she said and ran to her room to
prepare a safe place for the strawberries.
In the old chest by the window, there was a beautifully embroidered
blanket that Zosia got from her grandmother and which she liked very
much. The girl lay down next to the chest for a moment. How to recognize
a little sister in the crowd of other fruits? - Zosia wondered. And what if
she fails to do so before the strawberries begin to lose their freshness?
The breeze blowing through the open window whipped her cheeks, and it
felt so cosy and warm under the blanket that, despite her worries, she fell
asleep quickly.
The setting sun had not touched the surface of the lake yet when a
raven flew into the room. He landed next to the basket of strawberries
and looked at it for a moment as if he wanted to choose the juiciest
and most appetising one.
Sisterly instinct made Zosia sense the threat. She quickly opened her
eyes, and when she saw the huge black bird with a strawberry in its
beak, her heart started to toll, just like a Sunday mass bell.
- No! She managed to scream through a lump in her throat.
The frightened raven pulled out and flew out of the window without
letting the strawberry out of its beak.
Terrified, Zosia ran out outside the mill, looking shaky as the raven
would head over the surface of Lake of Truth. She felt that the bird
unmistakably chose the strawberry that was closest to her heart and
now, he was flying over the lake, with her sister in its beak.
Suddenly, the flight of the raven was interrupted. A feathered ball,
coming from the side of the setting sun, hit him hard. It was a falcon
that had already given up hope to eat something for dinner - but then
it seized the raven in its claws.
The strawberry fell from his beak and gently splashed against the
surface of the lake.
Zosia jumped and started her reckless run, hoping to catch the
strawberry - especially that the water was very shallow at the shore
where the fruit had fallen.
She ran to the lake where, to her surprise, she saw her sister's head
rising above the surface, greedily gasping for air. Zosia ran into the
water, helping her beloved Tosia to get ashore.
She didn't understand what happened. Only after some time, she
learned from her grandfather who had just returned from a hunt, that
the Lake of Truth was filled with magic water. Whoever immerses in it
will never be able to lie again and will understand who he really is. The
Lake of Truth returns people the truth about themselves - even if they
try to pretend to be something completely different. The power of the
lake turned out to work also for Zosia, who loved strawberries so
much.
Happy girls made a strawberry cake in the evening that tasted like
nothing before. They ate it without waiting for it to cool down,
devouring the last bites after it became dark. They did not see that an
owl was watching them from a nearby poplar. Can birds smile? If
someone had looked closely at the owl, he would have concluded that
they could.
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- STRAWBERRIES BY KAMILA ROSIŃSKA -
Polish Version - Wersja Polska
TRUSKAWKA
Był piękny, słoneczny dzień, lazurowe niebo roztaczało się
majestatycznie nad Doliną Starego Młyna. Delikatnie
zmierzwiona podmuchami wiatru tafla Jeziora Prawdy
skrzyła się w delikatnych promieniach. Letni wietrzyk
tańczył pomiędzy okiennicami, które poddając mu się,
rytmiczne skrzypiały.
Nagle rozległo się pukanie w okienko. Siostry Tosia i Zosia wybiegły na
ganek starego młyna, myśląc, że to jakiś niespodziewany gość. Jednak
nikogo nie było.
Na progu stał duży wiklinowy kosz z truskawkami.
− Ale smacznie wyglądają, chyba nikt się nie pogniewa jak jedną
spróbuję? – powiedziała Tosia. Jak pomyślała, tak zrobiła i w jednej
chwili zamieniła się w czerwoną, malutką truskawkę, która wpadła do
koszyka, ginąc wśród innych owoców.
− O nie! – Wykrzyknęła wystraszona Zosia.
− Tosiu?! Tosieńko! – wołała dziewczynka, ale zamiast siostry, stał
przed nią wiklinowy kosz, wypełniony po brzegi soczystymi i
mieniącymi się promieniach słońca, truskawkami.
− Która z Was to moja Tosia? Jak mam Cię rozpoznać siostrzyczko? –
wołała zapłakana dziewczynka.
Całe zdarzenie widziała z drzewa puchata, stara Sowa.
− Hu hu, hu hu, nie płacz dziecko. Zanim słońce zajdzie za taflę Jeziora
Prawdy, Ty i Twoja siostra znów się zobaczycie. To powiedziawszy
Sowa odwróciła starą, pierzastą głowę, i zerwała się do lotu
majestatycznie trzepocząc wielkimi skrzydłami.
− Też mi pocieszenie – prychnęła Zosia – chyba muszę Was zabrać do
domu, bo jeszcze ktoś się skusi i przypadkiem zje moją małą Tosię –
cichutko powiedziała Zosia podnosząc kosz z truskawkami.
Ale co to?! Bęc !!!
Zosia upadła potykając się o próg, a wszystkie truskawki potoczyły się
po drewnianej podłodze młyna. Dziewczynka szybciutko je pozbierała i
delikatnie postawiła kosz na stole.
− Muszę Was tu na chwilę zostawić – powiedziała i pobiegła do
swojego pokoju, by naszykować bezpieczne miejsce dla truskawek.
W starej skrzyni pod oknem znajdował się piękny haftowany pled,
który Zosia dostała od swojej babci i bardzo go lubiła. Dziewczynka
położyła się na chwilę obok skrzyni.
Jak rozpoznać siostrzyczkę w ciżbie innych owoców? – zastanawiała
się Zosia. I co się stanie, jeśli nie uda się jej tego zrobić, zanim
truskawki zaczną tracić swoją świeżość?
Wpadający przez otwarte okno wietrzyk smyrał jej policzki, a pod
kocykiem zrobiło się tak przytulnie i ciepło, że pomimo zmartwienia
szybko zasnęła.
Zachodzące słońce nie zdążyło się zetknąć z taflą jeziora, kiedy do
pokoju wleciał kruk. Wylądował obok koszyka z truskawkami i chwilę
mu się przyglądał, jakby chciał wybrać tę najbardziej soczystą i
apetyczną.
Siostrzany instynkt sprawił, że Zosia wyczuła zagrożenie. Szybko
otworzyła oczy i kiedy zobaczyła wielkiego czarnego ptaka, z truskawką
w dziobie, serce załomotało jej jak dzwon na niedzielną mszę.
– Nie! – zdołała wykrzyknąć przez ściśnięte gardło.
Spłoszony kruk zerwał się do lotu i wyfrunął przez okno, nie
wypuszczając truskawki z dzioba.
Przerażona Zosia wybiegła przed młyn, patrząc rozdygotana jak kruk
zmierza nad taflę Jeziora Prawdy. Czuła, że ptak bezbłędnie wybrał
truskawkę, która była najbliższa jej sercu i leci teraz nad jeziorem z jej
siostrą w dziobie.
Nagle, lot kruka został przerwany, bo uderzyła w niego, nadciągające od
strony zachodzącego słońca, pierzasta kula. To sokół, który już stracił
nadzieję, że zdoła coś zjeść na kolację, schwycił kruka w swoje szpony.
Truskawka wypadła mu z dzioba i delikatnie plumknęła o taflę jeziora.
Zosia zerwała się do szaleńczego biegu, z nadzieję, że zdoła wyłowić
truskawkę, tym bardziej, że przy brzegu, gdzie wpadł owoc, woda była
bardzo płytka.
Podbiegła do jeziora, i jakież było jej zdziwienie, gdy zobaczyła,
wynurzającą ponad taflę, głowę swojej siostry, zachłannie chwytającą
ustami powietrze. Zosia wbiegła do wody, pomagając ukochanej Tosi
wyjść na brzeg. Nie rozumiała co się stało. Dopiero po jakimś czasie
dowiedziała się od dziadka, który wrócił z polowania, że Jezioro Prawdy,
jest wypełnione czarodziejską wodą. Kto raz się w niej zanurzy, już
nigdy nie będzie potrafił skłamać i zrozumie, kim jest naprawdę. Jezioro
Prawdy przywraca bowiem ludziom prawdę o nich samych, nawet jeśli
starali się udawać, że są kimś zupełnie innym. Jak się okazało, moc
jeziora zadziałała również w przypadku Zosi, która tak bardzo
uwielbiała truskawki.
Szczęśliwe dziewczynki zrobiły wieczorem ciasto truskawkowe, które
smakowało im jak żadne inne na świecie. Zjadły je, nie czekając aż
wystygnie, ostatnie kęsy pochłaniając już po zmroku. Nie widziały, że z
pobliskiej topoli obserwuje je sowa.
Czy ptaki potrafią się uśmiechać? Gdyby ktoś bacznie przyjrzał się
sowie, stwierdziłby, że chyba jednak tak.
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people
follow Katy:
e-mail: info@katycarr.com
info: www.katycarr.com
tweet: www.twitter.com/katycarrmusic
follow: www.facebook.com/katycarrmusic
photos: www.instagram.com/katycarrmusic
videos: www.youtube.com/katycarrmusic
Katy Carr
POLISH ROOTS
Katy Carr is an award-winning British recording artist who has released six albums to date. Her recent albums ‘Paszport’
(2012) and ‘Polonia’(2015) are inspired by the Polish WWII experience. In 2016 Katy was awarded the ‘Pro Patria’medal for
her humanitarian and musical work. She is also an Ambassador of Polish history in Great Britain. Amongst literary and other
works that inspired this latest album were George Orwell's 'Nineteen Eighty-Four' and 'England Your England', Oscar
Wilde's 'The Nightingale and the Rose' as well as Witold Pilecki's first comprehensive intelligence report (1943) on the
atrocities committed at Auschwitz.
"My fascination with Poland originates with my Polish mother and her family’s history and connections with fighting for freedom against
totalitarianism during and post WWII. Poland’s catastrophic fate lay with the Molotov - Ribbentrop agreement otherwise known as the Hitler-
Stalin Pact signed on 23rd Aug 1939. This agreement was drawn up by both Germany and Soviet Union to invade Poland, steal and enslave
invasions on 1st Sept and 17th Sept 1939 and .
I’m British born with Polish roots, My mother Krystyna was Polish (1947-2018) and was fiercely proud of her Polish roots and was born in
Bielsko-Biala which is in south Poland from the Beskidy mountain range. She escaped totalitarian communism in the 1970s and was determined
that I would be born in the safety and freedom of Great Britain. My mother passed away recently RIP and her final request was to be buried in
her beloved Poland and I ensured that her final wish was realised.
My early memories of Poland were in the Beskidy mountains with my mother and there as a little girl I cemented my love for the country. My
Babcia grandmother Joanna was a ‘Goralka’ a Polish highlander and was born in Międzybrodzie Bialskie. It was a notoriously dangerous place to
live in WWII as it was where the SS took their summer vacations. She had nine children although two passed away due to starvation in WWII.
Her role during the war was working undercover to help the Polish Home Army ‘Armia Krajowa’. She was very proud of the Polish soldiers and
partisans and hid them, including as my grandfather who escaped from Auschwitz concentration camp (Prisoner no 22661). Without my
Grandfather’s escape I would not be here today.
History was very important to my grandmother and she was a deeply religious Catholic woman. She was the first person to teach me Polish
songs and I remember listening to her beautiful ‘Gorale’ highlander voice and amazing knowledge of Polish songs. Her her colourful folklore
headscarf and Polish highlander character was a great inspiration to me and I remember her strength.
I lived with my mother and English/Scottish father in Włocławek until we moved to England when I was 5 years old. I was always aware of my
Polish roots through hearing my mother speak Polish however my connection with the country grew distant as I began to integrate with the
British way of life and culture."
Katy Carr
www.instagram.com/sielskie_inscenizacje
116 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Our magazine is mainly dedicated to tourism, but we are also trying
to give it a character that would be a link for Poles (sometimes in
the 2nd or 3rd generation) scattered all over the world.
I must admit that Katy has always been a mystery to me, ranging
from her stage (but also private) appearance to her music and
involvement in Polish history. Katy, I think what you do and the way
you do it is rather more characteristic of the former emigration, I
mean a kind of 'innocence' and a kind of fascination with Polish
history. I do not see such enthusiasm in the eyes of the
contemporary émigré generation… do you think that my opinion is
justified? (you once said yourself that you are "an ambassador for
the new Poland”). Would you say that being away from your
country of origin has actually made you more patriotic and
interested in the nation’'s past? What history means to you ? (I
know many questions in one :).
Katy Carr: I'm an award winning British songwriter and for the last
decade I have been rediscovering my Polish roots via writing songs,
releasing a trilogy of albums Paszport-Polonia-Providence and
performing to my global audience across Poland, Europe, Great
Britain, USA.
The main inspiration for my recent rediscovery of my Polish roots
came via a story of escape by Polish boy scout Kazimierz ‘Kazik’
Piechowski from Auschwitz concentration camp on 20th June 1942.
Kazik drove out with three political prisoners in the camp
commandant’s car and I wrote a song called ‘Kommander’s Car’
which was inspired by the last 80m of his escape. My song was
produced by Nick Crofts and the music video was directed by the
British filmmaker Hannah Lovell. If you look closely you will be able
to see Kazik in the car! www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqvhgS00UdA
Meeting Kazik and writing ‘Kommander’'s Car’was a pivotal moment
for my creativity as it also led to the creation of our film Kazik and
the Kommander's Car www.kazikfilm.com. Kazik injected me with
his love of Poland and patriotism and introduced me to the deep
and rich topic of Polish history for the first time. He inspired me to
write my 4th album Paszport (2012) which I dedicate to him and
learn Polish patriotic songs of the Polish Home Army – Armia
Krajowa including Dziś do ciebie przyjść nie mogę (The Partisan’s
Lullaby ) and O mój rozmarynie (Oh my Rosemary) and to explore
the Polish freedom fighters from WWII including the Polish pilot ace
of the Battle of Britain General Skalski, Polish 1st Armoured
Division tank commander General Stanisław Maczek, SEO Agent
General Elżbieta Zawacka. I have written over 50 songs about the
Polish WWII experience and these appear on my Polish trilogy.
I bring a fresh approach to the topic of Polish history as I write
from a British songwriting perspective and integrate the music of
English folk lyricism, klezmer, 1930s lyricism and storytelling. I’ve
had an interest in ancestral history ever since I was a little girl as
my ancestors were fierce freedom fighters and fought hard for
their right to be free.
‘Carr is a fine example of that much-maligned
beast we call authenticity...never less than
immaculate.’
Sunday Times Culture Magazine
My Polish mother Krystyna escaped the totalitarian
Communist Iron Curtain regime so that I could be born in the
safety of Great Britain. My Polish grandmother Joanna who
was a Goralka (Polish highlander) hid my grandfather Jozef
after his escape from Auschwitz in the Polish mountains. On
my British side my Great grandfather escaped with Churchill in
the Boer War and was awarded the Star, British War and
Victory medals for his WW1 service.
TLP: Let's move on to music. When I had the opportunity to
talk to you before the pandemic started, I got the impression
that music, your music, is almost the most important thing for
you. What role does music play in your life and do you think
that music is an interesting or effective way of
communicating ideas or broader communication?
Katy Carr: Music has always been in my life and the first time I
remember singing was in the Polish mountains with my
Goralka Polish highlander mother and grandmother. Music
from the Polish mountains inspired me as a child and
transformed my view of the world. I love singing and making
music is now my life as I am a professional musician and
songwriter. My Polish roots begin with my mother Krystyna
who was born in Bielsko-Biała , south Poland which lies within
the Beskid mountain range. She was fiercely proud of her
Polish roots, escaped the totalitarian Iron Curtain Communist
regime and was determined that I would be born in the safety
and freedom of Great Britain. My mother passed away
recently RIP (1947-2018) and her final request was to be
buried in her beloved Poland and I ensured that her wish was
realised. She is buried at the Cmentarz rzymskokatolicki
parafii pw. św. Mikołaja in Bielsko-Biała with my grandmother
and great grandmother.
117 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
My first memories of Poland were in the Beskidy mountains with
my mother and there I cemented my love for the country. My
Babcia (grandmother) Joanna was a ‘Goralka’ a Polish highlander
and was born in Międzybrodzie Bialskie which was a notoriously
dangerous place to live in WWII as it was where the SS took
their summer vacations. She had nine children although two
passed away due to starvation in WWII.
Her role during the war was working undercover to help the
Polish Home Army ‘Armia Krajowa’. She was very proud of the
Polish soldiers and partisans and hid them even though it held a
death penalty including my grandfather who escaped from
Auschwitz concentration camp (Prisoner no 22661). Her actions
ensured my Grandfather’s escape and survival which meant that
my Polish blood lineage was saved.
History was very important to my grandmother and she was a
deeply religious Catholic woman. She was the first person to
teach me Polish songs and I remember listening to her beautiful
‘Gorale’ highlander voice and amazing knowledge of Polish songs.
Her colourful folklore headscarf and Polish highlander character
was a great inspiration to me and I remember her strength.
I lived with my mother and English/Scottish father in Włocławek
until we moved to England when I was 5 years old. I was always
aware of my Polish roots through hearing my mother speak
Polish however my connection with the country grew distant as
I began to integrate with the British way of life and culture.
It was through my connection with Kazik that I had the
opportunity to rediscover my Polish roots and relearn the
language. I had at that point near but forgotten every word of
my child Polish and had lost contact with my Polish family after
my grandmother died.
My album Paszport was a way to express my deep love of
Poland in the form of a song ‘love letter’ which was to express
the joy of patriotism together with the sadness of separation
and tragic trauma of WWII.
My songs cover topics such as the effects of the Hitler-Stalin
pact otherwise known as the Molotov-Ribbentrop agreement
originally signed on 23rd Aug 1939 which saw Poland enslaved
by the two superpowers Germany and the Soviet Union. The
title of the album Paszport came from the catastrophic reality
for many Poles that their Polish passports were no longer valid
during and post WWII. The German invasion on 1st September
1939 and the Soviet invasion on 17th Sept 1939, left Poland
massacred, enslaved and alone.
I wrote the songs for Paszport in both the English and Polish
languages. I wanted the sound to be reminiscent of the Polish
Partisans as described to me by Kazik’s time after his escape
from Auschwitz and during his service with the Armia Krajowa. I
chose a lineup of folk instruments with klezmer influences from
Guy Schalom on percussion helping to build soundscapes such as
on Poland Panorama to the joyful stomp of the cello on the song
‘Wojtek’ inspired by the infamous soldier bear mascot of the
Polish II Corps.
I was inspired to write songs of independence including
Chodźmy, Partyzanci! (Let's Go Partisans!) and songs of loss:
Paszport, Weronika, Poland Panorama, Mala Little Flower which
grieve for the loss of loved ones and a country in the ruin of
war. Red Red Rose pays homage to the two million Poles who
were kidnapped from their homes transported for slave labour in
Stalin’s Gulag concentration camps across the Soviet Union.
Travelling to You is dedicated to the exiled Poles who remained
aliens post WWII and had no chance of ever returning home.
TLP: I would also like to ask you about the universality of your
music. I heard in one of your interviews that when you
performed the song "Wojtek" (story about Polish bear who
served in Polish army during the word war II) in China and you
thought that the message of the song was lost. Do you think
that what inspires you in your music and its message can
sometimes be incomprehensible to a wider audience?
Katy Carr: My trilogy of albums inspired by Poland have opened
many opportunities to me and I have been able to perform my
music across Great Britain, Poland, Europe, USA. My audiences
are intrigued by the universality of the storytelling within the
songs. I have attracted listeners from as far away as Cuba,
Mexico, Siberia, Australia, Afghanistan, Israel, South Africa,
Persia, North Ireland and Iraq. When I headlined the Charlie
Gillett stage at Womad music festival nearly 3000 people were
singing along to Hej Sokoły and audiences as far as China have
sung along to my song Wojtek.
I try to make song melodies that encourage audiences to sing
along.In China the story of Wojtek the soldier bear led to the
audience bringing bear costumes and the joy people had singing
along transcended any language barriers.
TLP: You have recently released a new album called "Providence"
and as you say it is the last part of the "Polish" trilogy. (later you
will find information about the album).
What musical direction do you want to go now?
Katy Carr: I’ve been hugely inspired by the WWII experience in
Poland for the last decade and now I would like to focus on
learning the Polish language through singing songs written by
the great composers of the Syrena Rekord Company of 1930s
Poland including Marian Hemar and Henryk Wars. During
lockdown I performed the finale concert for Polish Heritage Days
2021 where I gave a ‘lecture concert’ giving introductions to my
songs and singing my favourite songs from the Syrena archive.
Watch the concert here: POSK Online: Katy Carr:
Polish-British Stories for Polish Heritage Days 2021
www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXL_piCBiac
118 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
art &
history
www.katycarr.com
tweet: www.twitter.com/katycarrmusic
follow: www.facebook.com/katycarrmusic
photos: www.instagram.com/katycarrmusic
videos: www.youtube.com/katycarrmusic
119 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Katy Carr’s New Album, ‘PROVIDENCE’
Concludes Polish Roots Trilogy.
Deluce Recordings
Katy Carr's sixth studio album Providence was inspired initially by a
dream sequence that the award-winning singer songwriter
remembers upon waking. Themes around water - including songs
about taking in Hampstead’'s Ladies’Pond and miracles on the River
Vistula - good versus evil, fighting for freedom as well as love and
death are explored. The new album creates the third and final
chapter in her Polish roots rediscovery trilogy initiated by her fourth
album, ‘Paszport’(2012). Katy believes that the people she has met
along the way have been linked through providence and that her
experiences have been synchronised through fate. Picture yourself
through the new album’s release, transported back to Hampstead
post World War II sometime around 1947, where you are hosting a
party at Erno Goldfinger’s house for the elite thinkers, writers,
military leaders of Britain and Poland throughout the ages. The Cold
War has begun and Stalin has sealed his Iron Curtain stamp on
Europe.
Then you hear Edgar Rice Burroughs’ voice repeating over and over
again - “Am I alive and a reality, or am I but a dream?” A young
George Orwell then discusses in great detail the current tragedy of
‘HERO TO ZEЯO’ and the ‘Western Betrayal of Poland’ with a Nobel
Peace Prize laureate (Czesław Miłosz) and Polish resistance fighter
(Witold Pilecki). For nearly a decade, Carr has been making in-roads
to rediscover the land of her mother’s birth, Poland - learning the
Polish language and history of a rich and diverse heritage. Underlying
this Polish mission has been her personal quest to understand her
own family’s inter-generational trauma from both a British and Polish
WWII experience. This has resulted in family estrangement and led
her to develop a songwriting and performance career.
The ten songs on the album reflect the immense need the singer
had for strong role model characters that could become her
friends and family and demonstrate survival techniques through
their own life histories, trials and experiences. Nottingham-born
Carr says she learnt that at the heart of every story was a quest
for inner enlightenment, freedom and peace. With the album’s
other tracks, ‘BOADICEA’ praises Queen Elizabeth I, aka ‘THE
VIRGIN QUEENE’ on her defeat of the Spanish Armada and then
they all then head off to ‘THE LADIES’ POND’ for a swim.
‘AFTERWARDS’ … and you see a little girl born into poverty in the
Polish mountains who will eventually become your mother. ‘THAT
LITTLE DEVIL’, that is your grandfather, suffers from Auschwitz
syndrome and inflicts immeasurable cruelty upon his family.
Queen Wanda of Poland then tells you to keep the 'MIRACLE ON
THE VISTULA’, a secret in a box under the water and never to
utter a word. You hear ‘A BEAUTIFUL SONG FOR YOU’ sung by
Oscar Wilde’'s brave nightingale, whose song - once so strong -
has now faded into the distance as her heart is pierced by a
thorn and loses its precious life force. As you awaken with the
dawn, a bloom of a red rose reminds you that this strange and
yet compelling dream/nightmare sequence is continuing to spiral.
Your head is awash with coded messages from the ‘HEJ SOKOŁY’
peregrine falcons. Subsequently you dash for your notebook and
scribble down as much as you can remember.
There must be a meaning to all of this, you say to yourself. Your
senses are heightened, for you know the muse has spoken. Now
your only job is to decipher her messages and translate them into
a ‘FREEDOM SONG’.
V I S I T K A T Y ' S S T O R E
W W W . K A T Y C A R R . C O M / S H O P
120 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
A R C H I V E S
K R A K Ó W – T H E M A R K E T S Q U A R E
Title: Author/Supplier: Krieger
Ignacy (1817-1889), Zakład
Fotograficzny Ignacy Krieger
Creation Time: 1872-1875
W W W . C T . M H K . P L
122 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
It is the largest medieval square in Europe. Measuring
approximately 200 metres by 200 metres, it was laid
out when the city received its charter in 1257. Unlike
the Cloth Hall, he Town Hall and the town houses that
border the square, the churches of St Maryand St
Adalbert were built before the charter and so are not
aligned with the sides of the Main Market Square. The
vital addition to the square is the monument of Adam
Mickiewicz, designed in 1898 by Teodor Rygier. Looking
at the restored colourful townhouses and mansions
surrounding the square it is hard to believe that they
are 500-600 years old. The Grey House (Szara
Kamienica) at no. 6 deserves a closer look. Legend has
it that it was donated by King Casimir the Great to his
mistress, Sarah. The Pod Krzysztofory Palace at no. 35
is noteworthy as kings John Casimir, Michał Korybut
Wiśniowiecki and Duke Józef Poniatowski all stayed
there at one time or other, and from it there is a
wonderful panorama of the Main Market Square with
St Mary's Church, the Town Hall Tower, Adam
Mickiewicz's monument and the Cloth Hall. The Pod
Baranami Palace (Rams' Palace) at no. 27 is the home
of a popular cabaret. House No. 15 is renowned for its
restaurant, Wierzynek, whose traditions go back to a
famous feast held at the house in 1364. In September
2010 under the Main Market Square, the biggest
European underground museum, with around 4,000m²,
containing a modern multimedia exhibition entitled
'Following the traces of Krakow's European identity'
and a tourist route situated 4metres below ground,
was finally opened.
PHOTOS:
above: the Main Market Square - detail
below left: Author/Supplier: Krieger Ignacy (1817-1889), Zakład Fotograficzny Ignacy Krieger Creation Time: 1879-1882
below right: Author/Supplier: Krieger Ignacy (1817-1889), Zakład Fotograficzny Ignacy Krieger Creation Time: 1879
the past
history of the Main Square
Photos & Digitalisation: www.ct.mhk.pl, public domain
The main function of the Market Square was commerce. After
the city was destroyed by the Mongol invasion in 1241, the Main
Square was rebuilt in 1257 and its commercial role expanded with
the Magdeburg rights location of the city by the prince of
Kraków, Bolesław V the Chaste. The Main Square was designed in
its current state with each side repeating a pattern of three,
evenly spaced streets set at right angles to the square. The
exception is Grodzka Street which is much older and connects
the Main Square with the Wawel Castle. Originally the square was
filled with low market stalls and administrative buildings and had
a ring road running around it. It was King Casimir III the Great
who built the original Gothic Cloth Hall and the town hall that
filled nearly a quarter of the square. Kraków was the capital of
the Kingdom of Poland and a member of the Hanseatic League
and the city flourished as an important European metropolis. In
addition to its original merchant functions the Main Square
witnessed many historical events, and it was used to stage public
executions of prisoners held in the city's Town Hall. It was a place
of regal ceremonies as part of the Royal Road (Droga Królewska),
frequented by diplomats and dignitaries traveling to Wawel
Castle. In 1364 King Casimir held the Pan-European Congress of
Kraków there. On 10 April 1525, Albert I, Duke of Prussia paid the
Prussian Homage to Sigismund I the Old, king of Poland and
Grand Duke of Lithuania, accepting Polish kings' suzerainty,
(pictured). In 1514 Lithuanian duke Konstanty Ostrogski held a
victory parade over the Muscovy and in 1531 nobleman Jan
Tarnowski celebrated another victory in the Muscovite wars. Jan
III Sobieski, a King of Poland and Grand Duke of Lithuania,
celebrated there his victory over the Turkish Empire in the 1683
Battle of Vienna
In 1978 UNESCO placed the Main Square as part of the Old Town
Kraków on the list of World Heritage Sites. On 21 March 1980, in a
time of political tension and the run-up to the declaration of Martial
Law in Poland, Walenty Badylak, a retired baker and a veteran of
Poland's wartime underground Home Army, set himself alight
chained to a well in the Main Square. Badylak was protesting the
communist government's refusal to acknowledge the Katyn war
crime. Also, the Main Square was central in staging mass
demonstrations of the Solidarity movement. In 2013 Lonely Planet
travel guides rated Kraków's Main Market Square as the most
beautiful in the world. Originally the market square consisted of
more structures that were crucial to the economy and political life
of the city and thus created a microcosm of the city. The Kraków
Town Hall existed since the medieval era and was destroyed in the
19th century. Also standing next to the Cloth Hall was the Great
Weigh House and the Small Weigh House, which both existed until
the 19th century. The foundations of the weigh houses were
excavated in the early 21st century and incorporated into an
underground museum. Since its creation, the level of the Market
Square has raised, in some places by over 5 metres. Underneath
there are large basements, the most famous of which is the Piwnica
pod Baranami. Many cellars are now transformed into pubs and
restaurants; other include the Theater Maszkaron and a small
archeological museum in the basement of the St. Adalbert's church.
There are passages linking some of the basements, such as the one
linking the Town Hall Tower with the Cloth Hall. The Hall itself has a
little-known underground trading hall, 100 meters wide and 5
meters high. Near Sienna Street there is another underground hall,
with 1,200 square metres of trading area.
124 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
left: the Main Market Square.
right: Author/Supplier: Krieger Ignacy (1817-1889), Zakład Fotograficzny Ignacy Krieger Creation Time: 1882-1884
PHOTOS:
the Main Square
Krieger Ignacy (1817-1889),
Zakład Fotograficzny Ignacy Krieger
Creation Time:
1882-1884
photo: Magdalena Tomaszewska-Bolałek
visual guide
monasteries in Poland
TOP 12 to see
guide by:
lovePoland
1. The Jasna Góra Monastery in Częstochowa, is a shrine
dedicated to the Virgin Mary and one of the country's places
of pilgrimage.
The image of the Black Madonna of Częstochowa, also
known as Our Lady of Częstochowa, to which miraculous
powers are attributed, is one of Jasna Góra's most precious
treasures.
Every year since the Middle Ages, thousands of Poles go in
pilgrim groups to visit Jasna Góra. In 2011, it was estimated
that 3.2 million pilgrims from 80 countries around the world
went to the shrine.
Around 830,000 pilgrims took part in 228 pilgrimages
organized in different places across Poland, 143, 983 of
which reached the monastery on foot. The average distance
for a pilgrim group to travel is about 350 kilometres (217
miles), made in 11 days.
2. The Benedictine monastery on the Święty Krzyż (Holy
Cross) peak is a historical monument of extraordinary
importance for the Polish culture and heritage - primarily
due to its historical and religious significance. Location woj.
świętokrzyskie, pow. kielecki, gm. Nowa Słupia – gmina
wiejska.
5. Lubiąż is a village on the east bank of the Odra River, in
the administrative district of Gmina Wołów, within Wołów
County, Lower Silesian Voivodeship. The village is mainly
known for its large abbey. The Abbey was built by the
Benedictines in 1150, and occupied by Cistercians in 1163
until 1810. Built over centuries, the abbey – the largest
Cistercian abbey in the world – is rated in the highest class
("0") of landmarks of world's cultural heritage. Lubiąż is also
known in Poland for its regional psychiatric hospital.
6. Cistercian Abbey in Henryków. The Cistercian presence in
Henryków dates back to 1227 when the first monks arrived
from Lubiąż. Soon after founding the abbey, it was
devastated by Tatar incursion of 1241, and later looted
during Hussite Wars at the beginning of the 15th Century,
and during the Thirty Years’ War in the first half of the 17th
Century. The tour of the monastery complex will take
approx. 1 hour (not including the church, the gardens and
the park). To visit the church, please make an appointment
with the parish priest (entrance to the presbytery at the
back of the church).
On photo: Tyniec Abbey
3. Camaldolese Hermit Monastery in Kraków is a
Camaldolese priory in Bielany in Kraków. The monastery is
located on the 326-metre Silver Mount. It consists of
hermitages and the Assumption of Mary Church.
The Camaldolese monks were invited to settle in Bielany by
Grand Court Marshal Mikołaj Wolski in 1603.
4. Benedictine abbey in Tyniec is the oldest existing
monastery in Poland which continues the Benedictine
tradition - a site which figures prominently in the history of
Poland from almost the very beginning of Polish statehood.
From the first half of the 11th century onwards, the
monastery played the role of an important centre for
missionary activities as well as for liturgical and cultural life.
In addition, it also bore witness to many significant political
events and had links with numerous historical figures.
128 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
Olsztyn
12
Camaldolese Monastery
in Wigry
11
Cistercian Monastery
in Kołbacz
Warszawa
Cistercian Abbey
in Sulejów
10
Cistercian Abbey
in Lubiąż
5
Cistercian Abbey
in Henryków
6
Wrocław
1
Jasna Góra
Monastery
2
8
Cistercian Monastery
in Wąchock
Abbey on the
Holy Cross
in Nowa Słupia
Cistercian Abbey
in Rudy
7
Benedictine
Abbey in Tyniec
4
Kraków
3
Monastery of the Camaldolese
Monks in Kraków
9
Dominican Monastery
in Krasnobród
created by lovePoland
7. More than 700-year-old Cistercian monastery and palace
complex is a former historic Romanesque-Gothic Cistercian
abbey in Rudy - a village located in Racibórz County in Silesia.
It was founded in 1253 by Prince Ladislaus of Opole, who
brought the Cistercians from Jędrzejów to Rudy.
8. The monastery in Wąchock was built at the turn of the
twelfth and thirteenth centuries. It is one of the most
beautiful examples of Romanesque architecture in Poland.
The founder of the abbey was in 1179 the Bishop of Krakow
Gedeon (Gedko). The builder of the abbey was Simon, of
Italian origin.
The monastery was destroyed twice by Tatar invasions.
Thanks to the strength of will and hard work, the nun slowly
brought him back to its former glory.
9. Dominican monastery with the church of Marian apparition
in Krasnobrod located in the eastern part of the city -
Podklasztorze. The church was built in baroque style in 1690-
1699 gg., Designed by Michael Link It, and built on the
initiative of Mary Sobieski, on the s vows a return to life.
10. Sulejów Abbey (Polish: Opactwo Cystersów w Sulejowie)
was a Cistercian abbey founded in 1176 by the duke Kazimierz
II the Just. The town of Sulejów grew up round it. The most
notable parts of the abbey are: the Romanesque church of
Saint Thomas Becket of Canterbury, the Romanesque
fortifications which stopped the Mongol in the 13th century.
11. Cistercian Monastery in Kołbacz: this place has a special
place in the history of Danish-Polish relations through the
ages. To the newly constructed Cistercian monastery in
Kołbacz arrived in 1174 Cistercian monks from Esrum
Monastery in Denmark with the mission of Christianizing the
inhabitants of Pomerania. In 1210 they began the building of
the present church, which is still popularly called “the Danish
church”.
12. The Pokamedulski Monastery is located on a hill above
Lake Wigry. Formerly one of the richest buildings of this type
in Europe. This 17th-century building now offers visitors many
attractions. You can visit the John Paul II Museum, the clock
tower and the crypts where the monks were once buried.
129 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
BY: KAMIL PALUSZEK
CERKWIE W POLSCE
POŁUDNIOWO-WSCHODNIEJ
Photos: Kamil Paluszek
Introduction: Jarosław Giemza,
Damian Nowak
Publisher: Wydawnictwo Libra PL
Album size: 24x30cm, 496 pages
published by Libra,
Buy here: www.libra.pl
PL
To książka o pięknie i misterium Cerkwi. Zostały w niej zaprezentowane
fotografie niemal dwustu obiektów z tej części historycznej eparchii
przemyskiej, która po II wojnie światowej znalazła się w granicach Polski oraz
kilka świątyń położonych na południowym krańcu diecezji chełmskiej.
Wertując karty albumu, stajemy się uczestnikami wyjątkowej wędrówki
szlakiem cerkwi, przez Łemkowszczyznę, Bieszczady, Pogórza oraz Roztocze
Wschodnie, aż po południową część Lubelszczyzny.
Pomimo zniszczeń jakie miały miejsce po 1947 roku, na obszarze południowowschodniej
Polski zachowało się kilkaset cerkwi. To swoisty fenomen,
świadczący o dawnej wielokulturowości tych ziem. Najstarsza – murowana
świątynia w Posadzie Rybotyckiej, pochodzi z początku XV wieku, a
najbardziej sędziwe drewniane cerkwie pamiętają XVI stulecie. Służą dzisiaj
prawosławnym, grekokatolikom i rzymskim katolikom. Szczególna wartość
kilku z nich została doceniona poprzez wpis na listę światowego dziedzictwa
UNESCO dokonany w 2013 roku. Są to znane wszystkim cerkwie w Radrużu,
Chotyńcu, Smolniku nad Sanem, Turzańsku, Owczarach, Brunarach, Kwiatoniu i
Powroźniku. Jednak nie tylko te najbardziej zabytkowe, ale każda z
przedstawionych w albumie świątyń urzeka swym pięknem. Z wieloma z nich,
oddalonymi od uczęszczanych szlaków turystycznych, dzięki tej
monumentalnej publikacji spotkamy się po raz pierwszy. Album ,,Cerkwie w
Polsce południowo-wschodniej” to owoc wielu lat pracy i tysięcy godzin
fotografowania. Jak pisze Jarosław Giemza, wyśmienity znawca sztuki
cerkiewnej: Zaproszenie do spotkania z Cerkwią, jakie kieruje do nas Kamil
Paluszek jest intuicyjną a zarazem kształtowaną latami umiejętnością
dzielenia się pięknem i wrażliwością na nie. Autor tych fotografii wpisuje
Świątynię w krajobraz, aby za chwilę schylić się po drobiazg, którego nie
dostrzegli inni. Ten album sprawi, że baczniej rozejrzymy się wokół i zadziwi
nas to umykało naszej uwadze, albo uważaliśmy za znane.
EN
It is a book about the beauty and mystery of the Orthodox Church. It presents
photographs of almost two hundred objects from this part of the historical
Przemyśl eparchy, which after World War II became part of Poland, and several
churches located at the southern end of the Chełm diocese. By browsing
through the pages of the album, we become participants in a unique journey
along the route of the church, through the Lemko region, Bieszczady, Pogórze
and Roztocze Wschodnie, to the southern part of the Lublin region.
Despite the damage that took place after 1947, several hundred churches have
survived in south-eastern Poland. This is a peculiar phenomenon that proves
the former multiculturalism of these lands. The oldest - a brick church in
Posada Rybotycka dates from the beginning of the 15th century, and the oldest
wooden churches date back to the 16th century. Today they serve Orthodox,
Greek Catholics and Roman Catholics. The special value of several of them was
appreciated by the entry on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2013. These
are the well-known churches in Radruż, Chotyniec, Smolnik on the San,
Turzańsk, Owczary, Brunary, Kwiatoń and Powroźnik. However, not only the
most historic, but each of the temples presented in the album enchants with its
beauty. Thanks to this monumental publication, we will meet for the first time
with many of them, far from the frequented tourist routes. The album
"Cerkwie w South-Eastern Poland" is the result of many years of work and
thousands of hours of shooting. As Jarosław Giemza, an excellent expert on
the art of the Orthodox Church, writes: The invitation to a meeting with the
Orthodox Church, which Kamil Paluszek sends to us, is intuitive, and at the
same time shaped the ability throughout years to share beauty and sensitivity
to it. The author of these photos inserts the Temple into the landscape, only to
bend down for a little detail that others did not notice. This album will make us
look around more closely and it will amaze us that we missed it, or we
considered it known.
130 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
W W W . L I B R A . P L
L O V E P O L A N D . O R G M E D I A P A R T N E R