SLOW & The slow cooker is having a bit of a revival, not least because it takes the time pressures of home-cooked meals off of family life and offers hands-free dishes which warm the heart and soul. Katrina Meynink is such an advocate of the process that she’s created a beautiful booked, filled with inspiration for each cooking mood. Here we have some tasters from her new book, Slow Victories. EGGPLANT CHREIME Steady This is a bit of a slow cooker riff on the traditional Tunisian braised fish dish of the same name. But instead, here I’ve cooked down eggplant in a harissaspiced ragu and added the umami heat of urfa biber (Turkish red pepper flakes; available from specialist grocers), served on top of hummus and finished with some cooling coconut yoghurt and herbs. This one gets better with age, so embrace the leftovers. Serves: 4 INGREDIENTS 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced 2 medium eggplants (aubergines), trimmed, quartered lengthways 2 teaspoons cumin seeds, roughly crushed 1 teaspoon coriander seeds, roughly crushed bunch of coriander (cilantro), roots trimmed, cleaned and chopped 2 ox-heart tomatoes, chopped 2 tablespoons tomato paste (concentrated purée) 1 × 400 g (14 oz) tin chopped tomatoes 1 tablespoon rose harissa 1 heaped teaspoon urfa biber (Turkish red pepper flakes) 1 tablespoon brown sugar To serve 150 g (51/2 oz) hummus 125 g (41/2 oz/½ cup) coconut yoghurt fronds from 2 dill sprigs chilli flakes, to taste METHOD Preheat the slow cooker for 15 minutes on high. Set the cooker to the sauté function and add the oil, garlic, eggplant, cumin and coriander seeds. Sauté until fragrant and the eggplant starts taking on some colour. Add the remaining ingredients, give it a gentle stir, then close the lid and cook on low for 8 hours. To serve, smear the hummus onto the base of serving plates. Gently scoop out the eggplant and place on top, then finish with the coconut yoghurt, dill and chilli flakes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. FREEKEH WITH KALE, CHILLI, YEAST & PEPITA SALAD I’m just going to say this up front: the nutritional yeast in this salad is a revelation. It truly adds the most phenomenal umami flavour, as well as being a superb seasoning mechanism. This salad has excellent holding power, so it’s always a good one for work lunches or those irksome bring-a-plate scenarios. Serves: 4 (as a side) INGREDIENTS 200 g (7 oz/1 cup) whole freekeh, rinsed 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) vegetable stock 50 g (13/4 oz/1 cup) nutritional yeast 150 g (51/2 oz/1 cup) salted pepitas (pumpkin seeds), roughly chopped (see Note) 125–185 ml (4–6 fl oz/½–3/4 cup) olive oil 150 g (51/2 oz/2 cups) cavolo nero, finely sliced 1 green chilli, finely sliced baby cavolo nero leaves, to garnish METHOD Heat your slow cooker on the low setting for at least 20 minutes. Add the freekeh and vegetable stock, give it a good stir, then cover and cook on low for 1 hour. Check it at the 45-minute mark and if there still seems to be quite a lot of stock, leave the lid off for the last 15–20 minutes. Once cooked, fluff with a fork. (It should be cooked through, but al dente.) Turn out into a bowl and season generously with salt and pepper, then allow to cool. For the salad, add the nutritional yeast, pepitas and 125 ml (4 fl oz) of the oil to another bowl and stir to combine. If the mixture looks too dry, add more oil until it reaches a lose pestolike consistency. Add the cavolo nero and chilli and toss with your hands. Add the freekeh, season again with salt and pepper, and garnish with baby cavolo nero leaves, if using, then serve. If you need to revive this for another day, simply slice some more cavolo nero and toss it through. COOK’S NOTE Use unsalted pepitas if you prefer. You can even add these to a mortar and
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