NETJETS EU VOLUME 16 2021

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GOURMET GUIDE downstairs, where Tracey Emin’s favorite toasted truffle sandwich, filled with jamón ibérico and Ermesenda cheese, is a must-try. Not content with reopening Joe Allen, Russell Norman has launched Brutto (msha.ke/brutto/), in Smithfield, with a menu of Tuscan classics, pappardelle with rabbit among them. Try the penne with vodka and tomato, borrowed from Florence’s Alla Vecchia Bettola, but actually an improvement on the original. Fashionistas, meanwhile, will flock to Il Borro (ilborrotuscanbistro.co.uk), on Berkeley Street, named after the Ferragamo family’s idyllic Tuscan estate. As at Brutto, gigantic bistecca alla fiorentina looms large on the menu, as well as hand-made spaghetti dressed with organic tomatoes and olive oil from the estate. THE MAÎTRE D’ Jesus Adorno HOW HAS SERVICE IN LONDON RESTAURANTS CHANGED OVER THE YEARS? When I started, we had a proper guéridon, a trolley, for steak Diane, steak tartare, crèpes Suzette – diners expected it. Now, most restaurants plate in the kitchen – it’s faster, with less fuss. A TASTE OF LONDON Clockwise from right: escargot at Buvette; KOL’s lamb leg tostada; New Nordic cuisine from Sven-Hanson Britt’s Oxeye The thoroughly exuberant, 295-cover Ave Mario (bigmammagroup.com), in Covent Garden, also claims Tuscan heritage – “inspired by an idyllic day in Florence” – but its over-the-top menu, like those at sister restaurants Gloria and Circolo Popolare, comes from all over Italy. Enjoy the ride. High-profile chefs from around the world continue to make a splash by the Thames: Argentinian chef Fernando Trocca has opened an outpost of his famous Buenos Aires restaurant Sucre (sucrerestaurant.com) in Soho, installing a “parrilla” grill and a wood-fired oven, hot on the heels of fellow Latin American chef Santiago Lastra, whose Mexican fusion menu at KOL (kolrestaurant. com), in Marylebone, has already won awards. Two more familiar names to London diners are also opening new outlets in the capital. Jason Atherton’s Mediterranean terrace-inspired Café Biltmore (lxrhotels3.hilton.com), in the Mayfair hotel of the same name, offers wood-fired pizza and robata-grilled fish, while the Galvin brothers’ Galvin Bar & Grill (galvinrestaurants. com), housed in a handsome old dining room on Russell Square, features a classic grillroom menu laced with their distinctively French savoir-faire. Swedish chef and TV star Niklas Ekstedt has opened Ekstedt at the Yard (ekstedtattheyard. com) in the new Great Scotland Yard Hotel, WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE FOR GREAT SERVICE IN LONDON? I really like Clarke’s, on Kensington Church Street. Sally Clarke is a delightful chef, I love her dishes, and the service is perfect. AND HOW IS CHARLIE’S, YOUR NEW RESTAURANT? Actually, we’ve brought back the trolleys. We slice beef Wellington at the table, for example. It’s a bit of theatre, and our diners appreciate it. WHAT’S ON THE TROLLEY TODAY? Salmon en croûte: well, it’s Friday! Legendary front-of-house Jesus Adorno was maître d’ at Le Caprice for many years before moving recently to Charlie’s, at Brown’s Hotel. roccofortehotels.com 68 NetJets
I N T H E B O R O U G H S Hackney A short walk along the Regent’s Canal from the lively bars, cafés and restaurants of Broadway Market, Café Cecilia (cafececilia.com) is ex-River Café and St John chef Max Rocha’s first solo venture. His breakfast menu features kippers with brown butter and capers and – betraying his Irish heritage – Guinness bread with boiled eggs and Coolea cheese. Lunches are more Franco-Italian in inspiration: expect porchetta and mustard baps, mussels with cider and pain grillé, or salmon with zucchini fritti and beurre blanc. Bermondsey Chef Robin Gill and wife and business partner Sarah first made their names at The Dairy, in Clapham, where their imaginative, impeccably sourced and cooked menus won them many plaudits. Now ensconced at Bermondsey Larder (bermondseylarder.com), just south of Tower Bridge, with – among others – Pizarro and Café Murano as neighbours, the emphasis is very much unaltered. Gill’s celebrated aged raw beef with bone marrow and parmesan is still on the menu, as is the potato and rosemary sourdough with chicken fat butter. Brixton Nigerian-born Joké Bakare cut her culinary teeth hosting supper clubs, persuading her to enter – and win – the annual Brixton Kitchen competition. In August last year, she opened Chishuru (chishuru.com) in Brixton’s bustling Market Row, showcasing her native West African cuisine (Filipino restaurant Sarap, a previous winner, is a neighbour, as is the original Franco Manca). Expect lashings of shito (spicy Ghanaian chili-and-shrimp paste), as well as goat ayamase (a Nigerian stew) and ekuru (Yoruba stewed beans). Peckham A South London hotspot for great dining, Peckham is home to Thai favourite The Begging Bowl, modern bistro Levan and the South African-accented Kudu, which now has a sister restaurant just south of the borough. Kudu Grill (kuducollective. com) majors in fiery “braai” (open grill) cooking: a whole black bream, for instance with zhug (Yemeni hot sauce) butter roti, or T-bone with beer-pickled onions and treacle bordelaise, washed down with an all-South African wine list. © BUVETTE Haggerston Just west of Hackney, Haggerston is now a gastronomic destination in its own right, especially its railway arches, which house both chef Sebastian Myers’s Planque (planque.co.uk) – offering modern French food and a well-stocked cellar – and The Sea, The Sea (theseathesea.net), a fishmonger-cum-chef’s table that promotes the idea of ageing fish before cooking it. As demonstrated by Portuguese chef Leandro Carreira, the results are persuasive: bag one of the 12 seats and feast on skate crackling and savoury toffee, and razor clams, roasted yoghurt and onions. © OXEYE HDG PHOTOGRAPHY Shoreditch Five years ago, Edson and Natalie Diaz-Fuentes were forced to close Santo Remedio, their much-praised Mexican restaurant in Shoreditch, after a disagreement with the landlord. They decamped to London Bridge, to a bigger site and great reviews – now they are back. Santo Remedio Café (santoremedio. co.uk) is the couple’s “ode to the bustling cafés of Mexico City,” and the food is, characteristically, as joyous and colourful as the décor. Feast on pork belly tacos with chicharrón and tomatillo salsa, with a margarita or two on the side. Crouch End There is a dream team behind bistro de quartier Les Deux Garçons (les2garconsbistro.com) in Crouch End: Robert Reid, formerly head chef at Marco Pierre White’s three Michelin-starred The Oak Room, and Jean-Christophe Slowik, ex-patron of L’Absinthe in Primrose Hill. The menu is a Francophile’s dream, too – coquilles Saint-Jacques with smoked bacon and herb butter, perhaps, or soupe à l’oignon gratinée; then confit de canard with Puy lentils, and baba au rhum to finish. Clerkenwell The new Sessions Art Club (sessionsartsclub.com) restaurant, on the lofty fourth floor of a Clerkenwell Green townhouse, boasts food as stylish and relaxed as its surroundings. Ex-Polpetto chef Florence Knight’s menu is chic but unfussy – grilled mackerel with datterini tomatoes and capers, clams with riesling and crème fraîche, pork belly with fennel and orange. NetJets 69
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WINTER WONDERS Latest developments
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CONTENTS ANCIENT TREASURES The Feue
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NETJETS, THE MAGAZINE FRONT COVER W
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FROM PASSION TO PROFIT Clients who
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Like the Ryder and Presidents Cups
Page 17 and 18: SWISS TREATS Clockwise from right:
Page 19 and 20: MORE THAN HEALTHCARE, THIS IS LIFEC
Page 21 and 22: Holiday home ownership for 1 /8 the
Page 23 and 24: FROM THE WORLD’S MOST AWARD-WINNI
Page 25 and 26: Bottled Charm Finishing Touch 1 2 3
Page 27 and 28: TIMELESS QUALITY STORING A PRECIOUS
Page 29 and 30: MADRID’S TOP FIVE G&Ts Our quinte
Page 31 and 32: JULIAN RENTZSCH INSIDE TRACK ALEXAN
Page 33 and 34: REIMAGINED DESIGN SAME BREATHTAKING
Page 35 and 36: AFTER THE FLOOD NetJets Captain Tho
Page 37 and 38: HOW TO REACH Escape to Porto Zante
Page 39 and 40: COURTESY MARC RANDOLPH MOVING ON Ma
Page 41 and 42: COURTESY MARC RANDOLPH to non-entre
Page 43 and 44: POWDER POWER On the slopes at Val T
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Page 47 and 48: WHITE WONDERLAND View from the pent
Page 49 and 50: GREEN HEAVEN The 7th hole on the Ne
Page 51 and 52: unkers that provide ample defense o
Page 53 and 54: ADOBE STOCK the body and brain and
Page 55 and 56: BIG FREEZE Ice-cold water has healt
Page 57 and 58: JULIAN RENTZSCH EXPERT EYE Christop
Page 59 and 60: CHRIS NORTH LEUKERBAD, SWITZERLAND
Page 61 and 62: TIFFANY & CO. platinum and yellow g
Page 63 and 64: BOODLES yellow gold and enamel Hava
Page 65 and 66: DRAMATIC DINING The revived Theatre
Page 67: LAT PHOTOGRAPHIC a Georgian townhou
Page 71 and 72: THE MAN ABOUT TOWN Pierre Koffmann
Page 73 and 74: WHET THE APPETITE Modern Irish rest
Page 75 and 76: NOSHE NetJets 75
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Page 79 and 80: HOLGER NIEHAUS NetJets 79
Page 81 and 82: NOSHE NOSHE NetJets 81
Page 83 and 84: when others see a HOUSE we see a WO
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NETJETS EU VOLUME 16 2021

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