TravelWorld International Magazine Fall 2022

Whitaker Point, also known as Hawksbill Crag,
Buffalo National River in the Arkansas Ozarks
FALL 2022
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE
“Fall”- ing in Love with Fall!
The Magazine Written & Photographed by North American Travel Journalists Association Members
1

Letter from the Editor
“Fall”-ing in Love with Fall!
“Fall”-ing in Love with Travel!
Crisp air, colorful foliage, fewer crowds, and that
feeling of excitement as your heart beats a little faster
and your skin slightly tingles ... is it LOVE?
It is LOVE! And you are “Fall-ing” for it as the season
changes and you can feel the energy compelling
you to go to interesting places and experience
remarkable things!
This is the world of travel writers! They cannot sit still
and every new season is a reason to get out and go!
They are IN LOVE with travel. And they “Fall” into it
again and again!
Here are some stories and photographs from the
North American Travel Journalists as they share their
love of travel with you!
TravelWorld International Magazine
is the only magazine that showcases
the member talents of the
North American
Travel Journalists Association
Group Publisher:
Publishers:
VP Operations:
Editor:
NATJA Publications
Helen Hernandez &
Bennett W. Root, Jr.
Yanira Leon
Joy Bushmeyer
Contributing Writers & Photographers:
Sandy Bornstein
Dennis Cieri
Sandra Foyt
Alex Kallimanis
Evelyn Kanter
Wendy Lee
Love Catalina Tourism
Barbara Gibbs Ostmann
Jason Rupp & Carla Rupp
Steve Tambosso
Kathleen Walls
Joy Bushmeyer,
Editor
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www.travelworldmagazine.com
2
Cover Photo Credit
Barbara Gibbs Ostmann shared her story about the
Buffalo National River’s 50th Anniversary by addding
photos from Arkansas Tourism. In this stunning photo of
Whitaker Point, also known as Hawksbill Crag, and one
of the most photographed sites in the area, we can see
how spectacular the Arkansas Ozarks are in the fall!
Thank you Arkansas Tourism for sharing this beautiful
photograph with Barbara and all of the readers of
TravelWorld International Magazine.
Volume 2022.03 Fall 2022. Copyright ©2022 by
NATJA Publications, Inc. All rights reserved.
Reproduction in whole or in part without written
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World International Magazine or NATJA Publications.
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NATJA Publications, Inc. PRODUCED IN U.S.A.

travelworld
FALL
INTERNATIONAL
2022 MAGAZINE
“Fall ”-ing in Love with Fall!
Buffalo National River’s 50th Anniversary Barbara Gibbs Ostmann 6
Heart of the Nation - An Iowa Rodeo Steve Tambosso 12
Heroes & Outlaws of Missouri Kathleen Walls 18
Sustainable Tourism in Puerto Rico Sandra Foyt 22
Four Adventures in Puerto Rico’s Jason Rupp & Carla Rupp 28
Beautiful, Central Mountains
The Bountiful Culinary Options of Israel Sandy Bornstein 32
6 12
18 22
28 32
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® I LOVE NEW YORK is a registered trademark and service mark of the New York State Department of Economic Development; used with permission.
Aim, scan & explore!

travelworld
FALL
INTERNATIONAL
2022 MAGAZINE
“Fall ”-ing in Love with Fall!
Fall into Wellness at Greek Thermal Spas Alex Kallimanis 38
The Bertha Benz Historical Road Trip in Germany Evelyn Kanter 44
Lion Fish! A Solution in Destin Florida Dennis Cieri 48
Endless Outdoor Adventures on Catalina Island Love Catalina Tourism 51
Celebrating 50 Years of the Marine Wendy Lee 56
Sanctuaries Act
38 44
48
51 56
5

Whitaker Point, also known as Hawksbill Crag,
is one of the most photographed sites of the
Buffalo National River in the Arkansas Ozarks.
Buffalo National River
50th Anniversary
Story by Barbara Gibbs Ostmann
Photos courtesy of Arkansas Tourism
The bluffs along the Buffalo National River are
decorated by Mother Nature in the fall.
6

Where the
Buffalo Roams
addling the Buffalo River in northern Arkansas is
always exceptional. About the only way to top it is to
paddle with Mike Mills, owner of the Buffalo Outdoor
Center in Ponca, Ark., and quite possibly the person who
knows the river best from a lifetime of experience.
When Mike Mills was about 8 years old, he started canoeing
and camping with his dad. “Dad’s form of vacation was to take a
canoe and a tent and go camp beside a river and fish,” he recalled.
“That was the one week of the year I got to spend the most time
with my dad.”
“We floated the Buffalo River for the first time in 1965, from
Pruitt to Phillip’s Ford (now called Hasty). It was an 8-mile float
and took most of the day. I remember stopping at the mouth of
the Little Buffalo River and cooking fish in a cast-iron skillet over
a fire. The Buffalo just had this draw that was unlike any other
river. It was so beautiful; it was so pristine.”
Mills was hooked, and those trips with his father helped to define
his career. Today Mills is not only doing what he dreamed of
doing, but he is also sharing his passion for the Buffalo River with
the thousands of people who pass through the area for floating,
hiking, elk viewing, camping, fishing, bird-watching, and more.
Mills was inducted into the Arkansas Tourism Hall of Fame for
his lifelong devotion to the river and the outdoors.
First National River
nvironmental awareness and conservation
movements were sweeping across the country in the
1960s. In the early part of that decade, President
John F. Kennedy endorsed the Ozark National
Scenic Riverways (ONSR), the first national
park to protect a wild, free-flowing river system.
Congress in 1964 authorized the act, which protected 134 miles
of the Current River and its tributary, the Jacks Fork River, in
the Missouri Ozarks. The ONSR became the prototype for the
National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act of 1968, which helped
protect free-flowing rivers around the country. These two events
paved the way for the creation of the Buffalo National River in
Arkansas, the country’s first national river (not a river system,
as with ONSR). The Buffalo was signed into law on March 1,
1972, one hundred years to the day after the establishment of
Yellowstone, the country’s first national park. This year is the
50th anniversary of the Buffalo National River, which makes it a
super time to get out and enjoy it.
Mike Mills
knows the
Buffalo
National
River as well
as, if not
better than,
any other
person.
Photo by
Barbara
Gibbs
Ostmann
Fall foliage lights up
the Buffalo National
River in Arkansas.
Autumn paddling on the Buffalo
National River offers tranquility as
well as beautiful fall foliage.
7

The old barn at
Boxley Valley is a
treasured landmark.
he Buffalo National River protects
135 miles of the 151-mile river
that flows from high in the Boston
Mountains to its confluence with the
White River, descending almost 2,000
feet along the way. Two Arkansas
state parks – Buffalo Point and Lost
Valley – were transferred to the park service
to became part of the new national park.
The historic Civilian Conservation Corps
(CCC) cabins at Buffalo Point are especially
popular with visitors.
An eagle soars over
Boxley Valley in the
Buffalo National River.
The Buffalo is usually divided into
three sections for recreation purposes --
upper, middle and lower. Typically, the float
season begins in spring with plenty of water
to float the upper section on down. Spring
rains produce whitewater rapids in the
challenging upper section. As the season
progresses and the river level drops, the
floating options move downstream. Because
the Buffalo is mostly rainfall dependent, it’s
a good idea to check with local outfitters
for current conditions in the section you
want to float or fish. To avoid crowds, go on
weekdays.
8
The restored elk herd at Boxley Valley near the
Buffalo River is a year-round tourist attraction.
You might tend to think of the
Buffalo as a summer destination, because
floating and fishing are the primary
activities. But the Buffalo is spectacular in
the fall -- as well as in winter and spring.
Each season brings its own special beauty
and outdoor activities. Canoeing, kayaking,
fishing, hiking, camping, backpacking,
horseback riding -- you can do it all, year
round. Hiking is exceptional, with more
than 100 miles of maintained trails. Hiking
is especially popular from November
through March, when the ticks and snakes
are not active.
The restored elk herd near Ponca
is a big draw throughout the year, but
especially in October and November in
Boxley Valley and at the Elk Festival in
Jasper in June. The Ponca Elk Education
Center sponsors the Color Fest in Ponca
each October (Oct. 21-22 this year). Be sure
to allow time for a scenic drive on Highway
7, especially at the height of the fall foliage.

Wild and Scenic Portion
rkansas is also the proud home of eight
wild and scenic rivers, including
a portion of the Buffalo River. Its
upper 16 miles are part of the
National Wild and Scenic Rivers
System that’s managed by the
U.S. Forest Service (USFS).
This segment begins at the river’s headwaters
in the Boston Mountains and flows through
the Upper Buffalo Wilderness to the
boundary of the Ozark National Forest.
From the forest boundary, the remaining
135 miles of the river, to its confluence
with the White River, are managed by the
National Park Service. The USFS upper
portion is the river at its wildest and most
primitive. The scenery is spectacular, with
sharp and steep ridges and bluffs, large rock
outcroppings, waterfalls, canyons, and caves.
Hiking, backpacking, and camping are
the most popular uses. The route to iconic
Whitaker Point, also known as Hawksbill
Crag, is the only designated hiking trail, but
a system of old logging roads provides an
informal network of trails for hiking and
horseback riding.
No matter what season or what angle,
Whitaker Point is always photogenic.
The still, clear waters of the Buffalo National
River reflect the surrounding bluffs.
This uppermost section of the river
is definitely not for beginners. Even
experienced whitewater boaters will find it
a challenge. After spring rains, the swollen
upper river is rated Class III-IV in difficulty,
and it has an average drop of 38 feet per
mile.
“A person needs a lot of whitewater
experience,” said Mills, who has probably
floated and hiked the upper section of the
river as many times as anyone. “You have
to be able to run blindly or follow someone
who knows how. You have to be able to
navigate and do a strong roll. If you’re a
whitewater boater, it is great fun. If not, it
can turn into a nightmare.” Because of the
difficulty of this upper segment of the river,
most visitors will opt to float the lower parts
of the Buffalo. Be sure to consult an outfitter
or a park ranger about weather conditions
and the suggested section of the river to suit
your abilities.
The fall colors reflect a mirror image
along the lower portion of the Buffalo
National River in Arkansas.
9

Fall foliage along the
Buffalo National River.
BEFORE YOU GO:
or more information about the Buffalo
National River, go to http://www.nps.
gov/buff or contact park headquarters
at 402 North Walnut, Suite 136,
Harrison, Ark. 72601, 870-365-2700.
The Buffalo Outdoor Center in Ponca, Ark.,
is a National Park Service concessioner for
the Buffalo National River. The center offers
lodgings, deli, canoe and kayak rentals, shuttles,
a gift shop, and zipline. Visit buffaloriver.com
or call (870) 861-5514.
Barbara Gibbs Ostmann enjoys paddling the
rivers in the Arkansas and Missouri Ozarks.
Parts of this article appeared in AAA Southern Traveler in 2018.
Whitaker Point, also known as Hawksbill Crag,
is one of the most photographed sites of the
Buffalo National River in the Arkansas Ozarks.
The peacefulness
of paddling
the Buffalo
National
River
Fall is a
magical
time along
the Buffalo
National
River.
Fall is the
perfect
time for
hiking
along the
Buffalo
National
River.
10

RATTLESNAKE RIDGE, LITTLE ROCK
SEEK MORE
HEIGHTS
The best things in life are free, like the quality time and scenic views you’ll
enjoy in Arkansas. Find tons of trails, miles of rivers and endless adventure in
The Natural State. Plan your trip today at Arkansas.com.
arkansas.com
11

Riders have only just burst from the
box and the first rider has already
flung his lasso at the calf’s neck.
Heart of the Nation
- An Iowa Rodeo -
Story and Photos by Steve Tambosso
12
ne of the most enjoyable
things about my annual
summer road trip, (which I
call the “Retirement Doesn’t
Suck Tour”), is seeking
out events, like rodeos,
that provide fabulous photo
opportunities and great subjects
to write about. During my threemonth
sojourn, traveling over
11,000 miles around the US this
summer, I stumbled upon a special
one, occurring over the July 4
weekend, in the town of “Leon”
Iowa. This was a celebration of
their 59th annual rodeo.
As I hadn’t contacted the
organizers prior to driving
there, I just showed up a day
before the event hoping that my
NATJA credentials could work
some magic. Once I had arrived
on the grounds, I hunted down
the head honcho/committee
chairman “Mark Smith”. I
introduced myself, presented my
media pass, and offered to write
an article about their rodeo and
provide his committee the use of
my photographs in exchange for
access to the event. To my pleasant
surprise Mark loved the idea and he
graciously offered me a parking spot
in their staff-row for my trailer and
even access to the shower block.
This was mid-west hospitality at
its finest and a huge “thank you”
goes to Mark and the committee
for making this a great experience.
I stayed there for four fun-filled
days, soaking up the ambiance of
the small-town rodeo and capturing
some of its great images.
As I wandered the grounds before the
opening ceremonies each night, scoping
out the best photo locations, I soon
noticed that I was probably the only
adult male in the arena (and possibly all
of Iowa) not wearing a long-sleeved shirt
and a cowboy hat! Somehow, I always
manage to stick out from the crowd.
Since it was the 4th of July weekend
the arena stands were tightly packed
and the “Red White and Blue” fluttered
from pretty much everything that
stood upright. Brisket smoke from the
numerous blazing barbecues lazily
wafted through the air while a constant
flow of country music blared from loud
speakers. I could almost taste the food
sizzling all around me just by breathing
in deeply. This was an “Americana”
holiday weekend at its best, which was
very good!

ach evening the rodeo began with
a dozen or so young cowgirls
demonstrating a fabulous
performance of Synchronized
Parade Riding followed by the
announcement of the new Rodeo
Queen. The crowd was then
invited to stand for the National Anthem
and join in a Prayer for the Athletes’ Safety.
Looking around at the sheer number of
children in attendance it became apparent
to me that rodeos are very much family
affairs and I quickly learned why. The first
events each evening were aimed specifically
at children, notably, “Mutton Busting”, the
“Critter Scramble”, the “Wild Pony event”,
the “Calf scramble”, and the “Calf riding”
events.
“Mutton Busting” where children
as young as three years old
were placed atop sheep and
then they desperately clung
to its wool as the bewildered
animal was goaded to scamper
down the arena.
“Critter Scramble” -
parents must have face
palmed and sighed as
their child ran back to
them gleefully clasping
a baby chicken or
bunny.
The opening
ceremonies were
capped off with the
landing into the arena
of 74-year-old skydiver,
“Bobby Reid”
In the “Critter Scramble” children were
invited into the arena to try to catch bunnies
and chicks placed in the center of the arena.
Parents were forewarned that there were
no “give-backs.” If your kid caught it… it’s
yours.
In the “Wild Pony” event teams of three
children try to drag an untamed, obstinate
pony across a line in the dirt. One of them
is pre-assigned to ride the pony across
another line further down the arena and
if they can do that quicker than the other
teams, they win.
The last youth event is “Calf Riding” for
the teens. The rules are much the same as
for the adult version of the event. Perhaps
one of these promising young riders will be
tomorrow’s champion.
In the ‘calf scramble’, children
chase after three or four calves
in the arena that have stickers
attached to them. If a child grabs a
sticker from a calf they win a prize.
Eleven year old Kate Davidson from Ash
Flat Arkansas put on a dazzling display
of horse training and riding.
Once the kids have had their fill of fun
it’s time for the main events of the night.
The first rough stock event was, “Bareback
Riding.” Cowboys must remain on the
horse for at least eight seconds to score and
their free hand must not touch any part of
themselves or the horse. The best possible
score is 100, with half coming from the
rider’s ability, and half from the horse’s
aggressiveness. A rider can request, but not
necessarily receive, a re-ride if his horse
wasn’t especially aggressive.
This young rider was one of only a few teens
who held on for the full 8 seconds earning
him a rousing ovation from the crowd.
In the “Wild Pony” event teams of three
children try to drag an untamed, obstinate
pony across a line in the dirt. One of
them is pre-assigned to ride the pony
across another line further down the
arena. If they can do it quicker than the
other teams, they win.
13

arrel Racing” spotlights
the cowgirls. Riders burst
into the arena tripping
a light beam to begin
their timed run. They
must then race a pattern
around three barrels
and sprint out of the arena tripping
another light beam. If they knock
over a barrel it adds 5 seconds to their
time and effectively eliminates any
chance to win the event.
“Men’s Calf Roping” is a timed event
where riders must give the calf a
lead-time before bursting out of the
box. They must then lasso the calf,
jump off their horse, run over and flip
the calf to the ground and then tie at
least three of its legs, which must then
remain tied for at least six seconds.
Clara Morris, Missouri State barrel riding champion
guides her horse around the last barrel.
In “Women’s Calf Roping” the rules
vary slightly from the men’s event.
It’s still a timed event but they are not
required to jump off and tie the legs of
the calf.
14
Monty Dyer, Vice President of the United Rodeo Association displays
his unique left handed lasso skill in men’s calf roping.
The cowgirls were highly skilled in
quickly snagging a sprinting calf.

addle Bronc Riding” is the “classic”
rodeo event and similar to bare
back riding in the scoring. The
main differences lay in the gearing
of the horse and rider. Both
cowboys and cowgirls compete in
this event.
“Steer Wrestling” is another timed event. The
cowboy must burst from the gate and drop
from his horse onto the running steer and then
grab its horns and wrestle it onto its back with
all four legs pointing upward. A second rider,
known as a ‘Hazer’, participates by keeping the
steer running in a straight line.
“Men’s Team Calf Roping” involves two riders;
one must rope the calf ’s neck and the other
ropes both of its hind legs. Then both riders
must face off to each other. (I was stunned
at the accuracy of the rider lassoing the calf ’s
hind legs).
MRCA and URA all-around bareback riding champion
Maverick Griffen displays his winning style.
Bull riding was the highlight of the
rough stock events.
Sometimes you’re not even out of the gate and the
bronc is quite clearly telling you to get off.
It was impressive to see a steer wrestled
to the ground in mere seconds.
15

considered the “Bull Riding” event to be the
premier photographic opportunity of the
rodeo, not only because of their sheer size
and weight, but also because of the ferocity
of the beasts. As a photographer I often seek
out unique positions to capture interesting
images. This time I thought that being right
behind the chute where the bulls burst forward would
be an ideal spot! It was interesting … but terrifying!
At the end of the fourth night, after the last bull
had flung off its unwelcome passenger, and the fans
had filed out, and the lights were turned off for the
final time, I actually felt a few melancholy pangs
as I looked around the arena. While there are over
600 rodeos held in America each year, and some
are iconic, like the massive week long “Calgary
Stampede” in Alberta (which may have Hollywood
actor Kevin Costner as its parade Marshall), and
“Frontier Days” in Cheyenne, Wyoming (which
may have country music superstars Brooks and
Dunn performing center stage), no other rodeos can
surpass the beautiful soul of a small-town rodeo like
the one held in the heartland of America, Leon Iowa.
When the gate flung open for this ride the bull immediately spun
to the left, reared its hind quarters and let fly with a vicious double
barrelled kick. The loud “PRANGGGGGGGG” that echoed in
my ears as the bulls legs smashed the wrought iron bars inches
from my face momentarily stopped my heart. Had those bars not
separated that 1,600 pounds of solid muscle from my head your
humble narrator would likely be composing this story with a pack
of crayons and drool on my chin. The clots of dirt that flung from
its legs and hooves covered my face and body. I deemed this as a
good thing though because the mud splats on my clothing perfectly
camouflaged the fact that I’d crapped my pants.
Well done, guys. Well done.
16
Performances also included the
‘Wichita War Dancers’ first nations
Comanche Kevin Browning, from
‘War Pony Productions’
Nick Jordan, the 2021 IRCA champion
bareback rider lasted for the full 8 seconds.
I bet your rodeo doesn’t have Mark Webber
from Bloomington Illinois blasting away with
his flame thrower!

3 in
Great Destinations
Central Missouri
Lake of the Ozarks, Mo was named the
"Best Recreational Lake in the Nation!"
Legendary rockers Jeff Tweedy and Wilco headline
the 2022 Roots n Blues Festival in Columbia, Mo.
Winston Churchill made history in Fulton, Mo
when he delivered his "Iron Curtain" speeach in 1946.
We’d love to host you! Let’s start planning your customized press trip to
Lake of the Ozarks, Columbia and Fulton. Contact Jo Duncan at
Jo@TBWGroup.net or by calling 573-636-8282.
17

Heroes and Outlaws of Missouri
A TALE OF 3 CITIES
Story and Photos by Kathleen Walls
Missouri was part of the old west back in the 1800s. Three of its cities showcase the part heroes and outlaws played
that formed the history and culture of the state and the country. Here are the places I visited that helped tell the
story of these men and women who were native to, or lived a part of their lives, in these cities.
ST. LOUIS
red and Harriet Scott were enslaved
people held by army doctor John
Emerson. After Emerson’s death, they
passed to his widow, Irene Emerson.
On April 6, 1846, Dred and Harriet
Scott filed separate petitions in the St.
Louis Circuit Court to obtain their freedom
from slavery. They based the suit on the fact that
Dr. Emerson had taken them to the free state of
Illinois and the free Wisconsin Territory, where
they were considered free. The law at that time
stated that “once free, always free.” After a lengthy
series of trial and appeals all the way to the
Supreme Court, in 1857 the Supreme Court ruled
against the Scotts. This case became the lightning
rod leading to the Civil War.
The statue of
Dred and Harriet
Scott in front of
the Old Courthouse
Their statue is in front of the Old Courthouse.
You’ll find exhibits about the case at the Griot
Museum of Black History and the Missouri
History Museum.
The Griot Musuem
Museum Building
An exhibit
at Griot
Museum of
Harriet and
Dred Scott
conferring
with their
lawyer.
18

Ulysses S. Grant
lysses Grant attended West Point. He visited
his roommate, Fredrick Dent’s family, and fell
in love with Dent’s sister, Julia. White Haven,
the plantation the Dents owned and operated
with about 30 enslaved people, was his home for
several years. Today, it’s a national park you can visit.
A ranger led us on a tour through the home and outbuildings.
Just across the road, visit Grant’s Farm. Along with free ranging
deer, goats, elk, longhorn cattle, and other animals, you’ll find
the cabin built by Grant. Grant and his family lived in the log
cabin in late 1856 for a short time. Grant’s Farm is owned by
the Busch Family, so there are Clydesdales, beer, food, and
more at the farm. It’s free. You just pay for parking and then
take the tram.
White Haven, Julia Dent’s
family home where she
and Grant lived for years.
Log Cabin that
Grant built at
Grant’s Farm.
HANNIBAL
Mark Twain
The living room at
White Haven with
mannequins representing
Grant and his wife.
ark Twain was the man who put
Hannibal on the map. Many of the
town’s attractions tell his story. I
enjoyed all of them. Start with the
museum and his boyhood home. There’s a reproduction
of the town as it looked when Twain, then Sam Clemens,
was a boy. The home of the Elijah Hawkins family is the
Becky Thatcher Museum. Laura Hawkins was a lifelong
friend and Clemens’ model for Becky Thatcher in The
Adventures of Tom Sawyer.
Mark Twain’s life is intertwined with his steamboat
captain career. Take a trip on the Mark Twain Riverboat.
We took the one-hour sightseeing cruise, but you have
an option to take a dinner cruise if you choose.
The Mark Twain Riverboat
19

Mark Twain (contd.)
One of the rooms at Mark
Twain’s boyhood home.
nother place you will find Mark Twain almost literally is at the Mark
Twain Cave. Young Samuel Clemens played in the cave throughout his
childhood, and it is featured in several of his books. You can take an
hour-long guided tour of the cave and see his signature on the rock
wall. Though it has been there for years, his signature was only
discovered in 2019. The walk is easy, and the cave is well lit.
Another famous man left his mark on the cave. Jesse James used it as a
hideout at one time. His signature is signed and dated September 22, 1879.
The hideout place is marked so you can view but you cannot descend to the
place where his signature is due to danger.
The “Cave Place” where
Jesse James hid out.
Reenactment of Mark Twain by Jim Waddell
at the Cave Theater
While there, be sure to see “The Life and Times of Mark Twain,” a one-man
presentation at the cave theater by Jim Waddell. He entertained us for one
hour with stories taken directly from Twain’s speeches and writings.
There’s even a Mark Twain Dinette where you can enjoy some of his favorite
foods.
The Haunted Hannibal Ghost Tours gave us a darker story about the cave’s
history. It was owned by Joseph Nash McDowell during Twain’s life. He was
somewhat of a mad scientist and wanted to experiment with petrification
of dead bodies. When his daughter died, he embalmed her and placed the
body in a copper cylinder. He suspended the cylinder on bars in the back of
his cave to test his theory of human petrification. Naturally, Hannibal’s kids
discovered the cylinder, and it became a rite of passage. Residents learned
of body and convinced him to give his daughter a decent burial.
Hannibal History Museum is at the start of the ghost tour. It tells of these
characters and many more.
Daniel Quarles AKA Jim in Twain’s Huckleberry Finn has a small but
detailed Jim’s Journey of his own. It tells the history of the real-life Quarles.
“Unsinkable” Molly Brown
Diorama at Hannibal History
Museum showing the famous
fence painting in Adventures of
Tom Sawyer
omen are not left out here. Molly Brown is renown for her surviving
the sinking Titanic. She was immortalized in the movie and play,
The Unsinkable Molly Brown. What many people don’t know was she
was active in social causes like women’s rights. You can tour her home.
“Jim’s Journey” Museum has
information about the real life
of Jim Daniel Quarles
Molly Brown’s House
20

ST. JOSEPH
Jesse James
essie James is probably the
west’s most well known
figure. What some don’t
know is he was thrust
into violence at a young age
when Jayhawkers tortured his
stepfather and beat young Jesse to
get them to tell the whereabouts
of his brother, Frank. In his midteens,
Jesse rode with Quantrill’s
Bushwhackers.
The home where Bob Ford
shot Jesse in the back as he was
hanging a picture on the wall was
part of the Patee House Museum.
The entire museum tells much of
the history of Missouri, including
the Pony Express. Its original
desk is at the museum. Plan on
spending a lot of time there.
The James farm where Jesse was
born is about an hour out of St.
Joe and open for tours. You can
view the home through the screen
doors. The museum has a great
documentary video about his life
and death.
The Walter
Cronkite
Memoral
has a
sculpture
of a rocket
launching
commemorating
Cronkite’s
coverage
of the
launch
Patee House has the
actual furnishings form
the original Pony Express
Headquarters.
The home where
Jesse James was
shot and killed.
Pony Express & Billy Fry
illy Fry and other pony
express riders are represented.
Anne led us through the
Pony Express Museum and
gave a detailed picture of life for the riders.
There is an exhibit of Billy Fry, the first Pony
Express rider preparing to leave St. Joe.
Spectators who came to witness this earthshaking
event cheered him on. Just imagine
mail getting from St. Joe, Missouri, all the
Home where
Jesse James
was born.
Walter Cronkite
Pony Express Museum
exhibit of Billy Fry getting
ready to make the first run.
way to California in just ten days. I
entered a typical rest stop cabin where
the young riders might stay overnight
or change horses. I learned about the
young men. The youngest was 11, and
the oldest was 40; these riders braved
hostile Indians, mountains, desert, and
weather to deliver mail from St. Joe to
California in 10 days. The exhibits are
detailed and lifelike.
alter Cronkite is the most modern-day resident of St. Joe honored with
a memorial. It’s at Missouri Western State University in Spratt Hall and is
free. The memorial covers his entire career and is beautifully done. There
are videos you can watch of many of his historic broadcasts ranging from the
President Kennedy assassination to the Beatles’ first American appearance.
These are three towns you do not want to miss!
21

Sustainable Tourism
in Puerto Rico
Story and Photos by Sandra Foyt
On September 27, 2022, when the United
Nations World Tourism Organization
celebrates World Tourism Day, it will be
with a focus on a more” sustainable,
inclusive, and resilient future.” According
to the UN Environment Program and UN
World Tourism Organization, sustainable
WHAT IS SUSTAINABLE TOURISM?
tourism is “tourism that takes
full account of its current
and future economic, social
and environmental impacts,
addressing the needs of visitors,
the industry, the environment,
and host communities.”
In Puerto Rico, that translates into
making every effort to leave no trace
outdoors, including minimizing the impact
on popular attractions. Pick up garbage,
wear reef-safe sunscreen, and consider
natural resource alternatives to sensitive
areas of El Yunque.
El-Yunque-2018 –
Six months after Hurricane Maria, the
foliage was just beginning to return at
El Yunque National Forest.
n any given day,
there are over fifteen
hundred vehicles
eager to enter El
Yunque National Forest
in Northeastern Puerto Rico, but
only two hundred parking spots.
As one of the top attractions on the
22
island, there was a push to reopen
the park as quickly as possible
after the devastation wrought by
Hurricanes Irma and Maria in 2017.
However, repairs are ongoing, and
it may be years before all the trails
reopen, and the number of parking
spaces satisfies demand.
Because so many people want to visit these
parklands, there’s been overcrowding, litter on
trails, trampling of native vegetation, and reefharming
contamination of the surrounding ocean.
In response, the national forest instituted a
reservation system. Still, much more can be done
to promote sustainable tourism in Puerto Rico.

EL YUNQUE NATIONAL FOREST – NO RESERVATIONS REQUIRED
Timed entry tickets are required to
enter the La Mina Recreation Area
(along Rd 191 starting near La Coca
Falls.) But there are sections of El
Yunque National Forest that do not
require a reservation.
El Portal de El Yunque
Visitor Center
Brand-new and stunning, the El Portal
de El Yunque Visitor Center opened
in January 2022. This is an excellent
place to learn about the only tropical
rainforest in the U.S. National Forest
System.
Set aside in the late 1800s, when
Puerto Rico was under Spanish rule,
the original sectors of the forest were
a response to deforestation due to
demand for ship-building hardwoods.
But, of course, the forest’s history and
name can be traced even further back
to the indigenous Taíno, although
accounts vary as to whether Yunque
refers to deity or peak.
Not long after the U.S. invaded Puerto
Rico, gaining the territory under the
Treaty of Paris in 1899, conservationminded
Theodore Roosevelt became
the 26th President. He is credited with
establishing five national parks and 150
national forests, including the Luquillo
Forest Preserve that came to be known
as El Yunque.
Today, El Yunque Peak and the
surrounding Luquillo Mountains
provide 20% of Puerto Rico’s freshwater.
And it’s one of the most biologically
diverse forests in North America,
featuring: 240 native tree species
(including 23 forest exclusives,) 150
fern species, 127 terrestrial vertebrate
species, and 50 native orchid species.
One of the most interesting forest
inhabitants--and most endangered-
-is the Puerto Rican Parrot. Daily
ranger-led interpretive programs
introduce visitors to parrots visiting
from the aviaries where, thanks to
ongoing conservation efforts, there are
now 800, after being on the verge of
extinction in 1973.
Discover a variety of educational
exhibits inside the Portal, as well as
labeled nature trails (including an
accessible portion) surrounding the
building.
El Portal De Yunque Visitor
Center reopened to the
public in January 2022
23

A lush pool lies at the end of a
short hike on the Angelito Trail.
Angelito Trail Day Use Area
Coca Falls is a roadside
waterfall in the region of
El Yunque National Forest
that is only accessible by
reservation.
A short and easy trail through colorful tropical foliage takes you from roadside
parking to emerald pools along the Mameyes River. This has always been a
popular spot with locals, and it’s not unusual to find a rope swing hanging
from Tobonuco trees.
Avoid the daytime crowds on a Night Walk Tour with El Yunque Tours. Over
sixty percent of the forest wildlife is nocturnal, producing the magical lights of
fireflies and serenades from seventeen species of coqui tree frogs.
Las-Pailas –
A natural water slide
tempts visitors at the
Las Pailas Falls.
24

6 Under-The-Radar Spots to Rival El Yunque
ALTERNATIVES TO EL YUNQUE NATIONAL FOREST
Some of the most popular attractions
in the national forest are the impressive
waterfalls, but La Isla Del Encanto
is home to over five hundred falls,
including sixty major ones. Discover
Puerto Rico describes a few of the
most beautiful waterfalls around the
island. And we can recommend a
couple more.
Las Pailas
(Or Las Paylas)
In Luquillo, and not far from El
Yunque National Forest, you can find
the waterfall pools of Las Pailas (as it’s
spelled on Google Maps.) There are
two main pools along the meandering
waterfall, with lots of poolside rocks
that make excellent picnic spots.
The main attraction here is the natural
waterslides, with the larger one at the
top pool and the smaller one below.
However, be aware that these rocks are
slippery and there are no lifeguards.
Consider booking a tour as it can be
a little challenging to find, and guides
can show you the best way to tackle the
waterslides.
Because easy access is through private
land, expect to pay $5 for roadside
parking. Note - there are no restrooms
or amenities.
Gozalandia Falls
Gozalandia Falls used to be a secret spot,
only accessible through cow pastures.
But now, the double waterfall in San
Sebastian (on the western side of
Puerto Rico, near Rincon) has been
developed to include restrooms and a
restaurant.
Follow hiking trails past multiple little
pools along the river connecting the
two waterfalls. Both waterfalls offer
large pools, although the 50-foot main
waterfall features a cave under the
streaming water where agile climbers
can jump off rocks into the deep pool.
Meanwhile, at the second waterfall, a
rope swing adds to the fun.
Attendants collect a $10 parking fee at
the entrance, and patrols enforce safety
rules, but there are no lifeguards.
Gozalinda-Falls –
Catch a ride on
the rope swing at
Gozalinda Falls
only if you dare.
25

Recently reopened,
the Camuy Caves were
carved out by the thirdlargest
underground
river in the world.
Camuy River Cave Park
Once again open to the public after extensive
post-hurricane repairs, the Camuy Caves in
northwestern Puerto Rico are impressive.
Although you’ll typically enter through Cueva
Clara, it’s part of a massive limestone cavern
network extending from Camuy River, the
third-largest underground river in the world.
A tour guide leads you through the caverns,
explaining limestone formations and pointing
out indigenous vegetation and native species
such as the tailless whip scorpion spider -
arachnophobes beware.
Cabo Rojo Lighthouse Trail
The Cabo Rojo
Lighthouse Trail
ends at a gentle
crescent beach.
Short but splendid, the 1.5-mile Cabo
Rojo Lighthouse Trail is located on the
southwestern corner of Puerto Rico. It starts
by the reddish salt flats and climbs up to the
historic Los Morrillos Lighthouse. The view
here is spectacular. Tall limestone cliffs and
arches create a natural bridge over tourmaline
waters.
Best of all, this trail ends near the serene
crescent-shaped Playa Sucia, perfect for a
quick dip or a beachside nap.
Bioluminescent Bays
There are three
bioluminescent bays
in Puerto Rico, but
the brightest of them
all is on Vieques.
There are only a few bioluminescent bays
worldwide, three of which are in Puerto Rico.
In the Caribbean, a species of phytoplankton
called dinoflagellate Pyrodinium bahamese
glows blue when agitated. However, it takes
calm waters and dark night to observe the
phenomenon.
The brightest of the bioluminescent bays,
probably due to less light pollution and greater
enforcement of natural resource management,
can be found on the offshore island of Vieques.
There are a handful of tour companies offering
nightly kayak tours of Vieques’ Mosquito Bio
Bay. Still, only Abe’s Snorkeling & Bio Bay
Tours consistently gets the highest praise from
locals.
26

Tanama-River-Adventures
Guided tubing on the Tanama
River combines an adventure
in nature with an exploration
of Taino culture.
Tanamá River Adventures
One of the most exciting ways to discover Puerto Rico’s subterranean features is on a Tanamá River Adventure. Explore
ancient trails with Taíno guides who know the flora and fauna and can safely lead you on a thrilling tubing and even rappelling
experience through the river caves. Look for Taíno petroglyphs and aritfacts in the caves, hike through verdant rainforest, and
observe a family-run farm harmoniously carved out of the land.
The Tanamá River is located at Utuado, in the central mountains of Puerto Rico.
SUSTAINABLE
TOURISM IN
PUERTO RICO
Only three of the Puerto Rican Parrots living in the wild
survived the hurricanes; now there are fifty, as well as
nearly 800 living in aviaries.
Puerto Rico’s economy is highly dependent on
tourism. As such, one of the best ways we can
help the island recover from setbacks is to visit.
Fortunately, Puerto Rico is one of the largest
islands in the Caribbean, and it has been gifted
with a grand variety of beautiful natural resources,
in addition to its idyllic beaches. There’s no
question that visitors have many opportunities to
practice responsible eco-tourism.
27

FOUR Adventures in the Beautiful,
Central Mountains of Puerto Rico
Photos and Story by Jason Rupp and Carla Marie Rupp
Beyond Puerto Rico’s nearly 300 Caribbean beaches and Old San Juan’s cafes and pretty pastel buildings, are endless
possibilities for adventures if you take a road trip deeper inland and explore the beautiful central mountains.
We took that road trip and enjoyed four fascinating experiences.
We explored a large cave of stalagmites and stalactites … and
bats, we zip-lined from cliff to cliff in a jungle, and we visited
two agritourism farms, one a small family farm that supplies
restaurants on the island and the other a cheese and yogurtmaking
business where you may sample the products.
The Hyatt Place Manatí, a modern hotel with a tropical
flair, was our road trip base, which served us tropical
welcome drinks before we had dinner at the Bocaito
Restaurant. The pretty and bright cocktails festively
started off the night and we had fun while eagerly
taking pictures.
The Cavernas de Camuy Park Experience
After a lunch that included
“mofongo” (a local dish made of
mashed plantains) at Del Campo al
Norte, we drove up the mountains to
the cave. Once there, we were given
safety helmets and headsets for the
guided tour. We waited our turn to
board the tram, which took us down
a winding road through the green
jungle. Our guide, Jose, explained
what we were seeing and the history
of the cave. It felt like a surreal dream
world amidst the stalagmites and
stalactites. Once we were deep inside
the cave, we weren’t allowed to touch
any part of it, due to conservation
purposes. We had to be careful
walking, as it was very dark and
slippery. In one section there was brownish
gunk on the handrails, which we were
disgusted to find was actually bat poop!
Thirteen species of bats have been sighted
here, in addition to insects and frogs.
Interestingly, the sounds of bats in a
Batman movie were recorded in this cave.
Camuy Caves are enchanting and
are a picture-taker’s dream.
Camuy Caves
provide spectacular
scenery. It’s cool
and damp. But so
worth the walk
inside!
28

The Toro Verde Adventure Park
Toro Verde Adventure Park, near Orocovis, has the longest
zipline in America. We had a lot of fun going from platform
to platform and, of course, taking pictures of each other.
Jason was really scared when we started, but by the end he
was asking for more. At one point Jason told a staffer named
Carlos “When I’m knocking on Heaven’s Door, I can tell him
that Carlos sent me!” But Carlos just sent him flying on the
cable to the next platform, laughing with everyone else. We
all braved it! Everything felt safe. Ziplining in a Puerto Rican
tropical paradise is something else we can brag about now!
Driving out of the mountains we saw many local food trucks
with foods such as grilled corn and burgers. We gazed at
them hungrily, but refrained from stopping, as we knew a
farm food experience was next.
Jason and Jen (from
“Jen on a Jet Plane”),
smile in front of the
longest zipline in America at
Toro Verde Adventure Park.
The Frutos del Guacabo Experience
We arrived at Frutos del Guacabo
with a great appetite after ziplining.
We were given a detailed tour of the
gardens and our choice of red or
white wine. The fun was in tasting
everything the farmer told us about.
While sitting on hay bales under a
huge Puerto Rican flag, we enjoyed
fresh-squeezed orange juice and
mimosas, grilled peppers stuffed
with goat cheese from the farm,
greens, Puerto Rican beans, and
flan with gooseberry on top. There
were Spanish red wines, marmalade,
jams, dips and pickled veggies, and blue
Thai pea water. Homemade pineapple and
mango guava sorbets with guava crackers
also were served. Lunch was divine,
completely of homegrown ingredients! It
was our best meal of the whole week!
At Frutos del Guacabos, we were
served grilled peppers grown on the
farm stuffed with home-made goat
cheese from goat milk -- all made on
their farm.
The vegetables and fruit jams made on the
Frutos del Guacabofarm are so delicious.
Carla and
Jason
pose with
the Puerto
Rican
flag at
Frutos del
Guacabo
farm,
waiting to
eat lunch.
29

Efren Robles was an amazing host at the
Frutos Guacabo farm experience.
Jason drinks shots of fresh goat milk from the goat he “milked”
at Frutos del Guacabo farm. Many of us tried “milking” also and
tasted the goat milk. So delicious!
he farm staff then
explained crop cultivation,
hydroponics, and how to be a
pesticide-and fertilizer-free farm
through ecological management. We
marveled that so much is accomplished
on only a half-acre of land! They even
make goat milk yogurt from the goats we
were petting. Even though we had spent
time on a Kansas farm, milking a goat was
something new. Mr. Robles showed us the
milking technique, and we tried it, using
our fingers to hold and squeeze milk from
the goat into a bucket. Some really good
photos came out of this! We also enjoyed
horses, chickens, rabbits and cats.
We were thankful to owner Efrén D.
Robles, his wife, son, and their friendly
staff, who all seemed to enjoy sharing
farming tips and meals. We were impressed
at how generous this farm is with food
samples from their crops. And they do it
all with such friendliness and awesome
customer service!
Approximately 200 restaurants on the
island buy herbs and ingredients from
here. We visited their store that sells farm
products to the public. Anyone can book a
similar farm experience here.
Side note: Hollywood actor Zac Efron
featured this Puerto Rican farm in his
“Down to Earth” show on Netflix!
Carla loved
her strawberry
margarita in Puerto
Rico. “It was so
perfect.”
We loved the flan with the
farm-grown berries on top
at Frutos del Guacabo.
30

The Quesos Vaca Negra Experience
The second agritourism experience was
Vaca Negra in Hatillo, (pronounced
Ha-tea-Joe, if you’re not Spanish
speaking). We were welcomed with
a beautiful cheese plate spread with
fruits and wines. Sliced fresh mango
came from the mango trees outside. We
loved the fruit yogurts made with fresh
papaya, coconut and guava. It’s a cheese
wonderland for food lovers. It’s special
because you get to eat homemade cheese
at the site, as fresh as you can get. You
can even make your own cheese as part
of the experience - and have it shipped
to your home! Tours are offered here
each Saturday.
Making cheese
at Vaca Negra
Although all good things must come
to an end, we will always remember
our four adventures in the beautiful
mountains of Puerto Rico. Another
meaningful memory we share is that of
the warm and welcoming hospitality of
the Puerto Rican people. All of our tour
guides and drivers were quite “buena
gente” (kind and friendly). We believe
we found what they call the “living
Boricua,” the liveliness, culture, and
heart of the Puerto Rican people. It is
a rhythm and celebration of life with so
much “food for the soul.”
Each of our four epic experiences would be an excellent choice for travelers. Viva Puerto Rico!
•
•
•
•
IF YOU GO:
Parque Nacional de las Cavernas del Río Camuy
https://www.discoverpuertorico.com/article/exploring-caves-puerto-rico
www.DiscoverPuertoRico.com
Toro Verde Puerto Rico
https://www.toroverdepr.com/
Frutos Del Gucabo Email: frutosdelguacabo@gmail.com;
Vaca Negra Artisinal Cheeses and Yogurts
www.frutosdelguacabo.com
https://vacanegra.com/
Jason Rupp and Carla Marie Rupp are freelance journalists based in New York City.
jasonruppy@gmail.com and carlaruppy@gmail.com
31

The Bountiful Culinary
Options of Israel
Story and Photos by Sandy Bornstein
“You have to taste a culture to understand it” – Deborah Cater
To fully appreciate the depth of Israel’s
diversity, it is essential to sample a variety
of foods in several different regions of
the country. To accomplish this goal,
Ira and I visited Israel’s two largest
cities— Jerusalem and Tel Aviv— and
spent multiple days in the Galilee and
the Negev Desert. In conjunction with
visiting popular attractions, we exposed
our taste buds to each regions’ cuisine.
From onsite hotel restaurants to street
food kiosks to trending restaurants to
food tours, we loved the opportunity
to learn about Israel by sampling
foods that originated in the Middle
East as well as other places around
the world. While it is always advisable
to have flexibility when traveling,
having reservations for food tours and
popular restaurants is a wise decision.
Foodies will have no problem finding
a wide array of choices as they travel
from one region to the next. After
numerous trips to Israel, I’d like to
share highlights from our recent trip.
Note: Our private 12-day tour was
partially hosted by Israel My Way. All
opinions are my own.
Vegan deserts at The Beresheet
Hotel And Resort Breakfast Buffets
32
For as long as I can remember, health experts have debated the importance of breakfast. While a consensus has
yet to be reached, most would agree that individuals should start the day with a nutrient-dense meal. Simple
and elaborate hotel buffets along with traditional sit-down menus meet this criterion. From Sunday to Friday,
restaurants adhering to Jewish kashrut (kosher) laws will offer a wide variety of hot and cold buffet breakfast
foods along with made to order cooked foods. On the Jewish Sabbath, the options will be modified to conform
to the restrictions associated with the seventh day of rest. It should also be noted that many restaurants will be
closed throughout the country on the Jewish Sabbath. (Friday sundown to Saturday sundown)

Oven baked omelets at
Mitzpe Hayamim
Homemade
Pizza at The
Beresheet
Shakshuka at
Mamilla Hotel
Mamilla Hotel
In Jerusalem, the conveniently
located Mamilla Hotel caters
to an upscale clientele who
appreciates the convenience of
being walking distance to the Old
City’s Jaffa Gate. At this buffet,
one can comfortably select foods
from a long counter and choose
to sit inside or outside. This
buffet showcases an assortment
of quiches, made to order
omelets, Belgium waffles, Israeli
salads, cheesecake, and breakfast
pastries. Don’t forget to try their
shakshuka served in miniature
pans.
Abu Sneina
Mitzpe Hayamim
Guests seeking an authentic farm to
table experience will be in heaven at
the Mitzpe Hayamim, in the Galilee.
This luxury resort has both an onsite
dairy and organic farm, along with
amazing grounds perched above the
Sea of Galilee. An early morning
walk on these serene grounds
can jump start your morning.
The resort’s breakfast buffet is the
place to indulge in cheeses and
dairy products along with seasonal
vegetables. Other things to consider
are oven baked omelets emulating
local traditions and entrees at the
Msabbaha station.
Notable Kiosks
Beresheet Resort
If your travels include the Negev
Desert, check out the Beresheet
Resort. It is adjacent to the
40-kilometer long Makhtesh
Ramon, the world’s largest erosion
crater. The onsite buffet in the
Rosemarine Restauant will not
disappoint. The number of options
is so great that I would recommend
taking some time to review what
is available before diving in. The
hotel’s culinary staff singles out
gravlax, smoked fish, herring,
organic cheeses, humus and pita,
homemade pizza, and knafeh as
their guests’ top picks.
Café Levinsky
Our guide, Eric Tomer, introduced us to a small
Palestinian bakery in the Jewish Quarter in the
Old City identified as Abu Sneina. We peeked
inside to observe an older man baking different
types of bread in a large open-fire oven. If you
want to sample freshly baked sesame flat bread
and Jerusalem bagels with zaatar, this is one
place worth visiting in the Old City.
Lehuhe Zefat
In between touring Sephardic synagogues
and shopping in Tzfat’s (also known as Safed)
boutique shops, stop at Lehuhe to taste Lahuhe,
a Yemenite bread that is like pita bread.
Our Tour Guide,
Eric Tomer outside
Abu Sneina
Near the end of our graffiti and outdoor art
tour, our informative guide, Libbi Cohen,
stopped at Café Levinsky so that we could
taste a carbonated non-alcoholic drink made
with fresh produce called a gazoz. More
information about this popular drink can be
found in the book, Gazoz: The Art of Making
Magical, Seasonal Sparkling Drinks.
Libbi
Cohen
& Sandy
sampling
Gazoz
33

Food And Wine Tours And Workshops
Falafel Sampling at
Ayesha Falafel Bar
during Mechaneh
Yehuda Market
Culinary Tour in
Jerusalem
Machaneh Yehuda Market
Culinary Tour
Cities around the world are known for their food markets.
Jerusalem’s Shuk or Mechaneh Yehuda Market is often
cited as one of the best in the world. While it is possible
to wander around the marketplace on your own, I
recommend taking a tour with Roi Damari so that you
can fully appreciate the diversity of Israel’s culinary scene.
During our culinary tour, we sampled foods in several
restaurants adjacent to the market as well as a selection
of foods sold in numerous stalls inside the Shuk. If you’d
like to experience the rush for shopping before the Jewish
Sabbath, schedule a visit on a Friday afternoon.
Wine Tasting in the Galilee
Wine Tasting at Bazelet HaGolan
Israel has hundreds of wineries. Our travels have taken us
to a few in the Galilee where the climate and rich soil are
conducive for producing quality wines. At Bazelet HaGolan,
I sampled several different types of wine. This is the first time
in a long time that I enjoyed everything that I tasted.
Galieat Workshop in Druze Home
Regional cooking workshops introduce travelers to authentic dishes and local traditions. In the Galilee, we visited the
Druze home of Miad and Snir where we experienced firsthand the preparation of seven traditional Galilean dishes. For
a couple of hours, we worked side by side with Miad to prepare the dishes and then enjoyed the fruits of our labor. Paul
Niren, the founder of Galieat, organized this memorable culinary encounter.
34
Vegetarian dish prepared during
Galileat Cooking Demo in the Gailiee
Sandy and Ira having great time during
Druze cooking demo in the Galilee

Restaurants
View from Happy Fish in Jerusalem
Happy Fish
After a very long day of traveling from Colorado to Israel, Happy Fish,
a restaurant in the Mamilla Hotel, was the most convenient option for
our first night in Jerusalem. We opted to sit outside on an elevated patio
overlooking Alrov Mamilla Avenue. From our table, we looked down on
a stone paved outdoor pedestrian mall filled with local and international
stores, cafes, and restaurants leading to the Old City.
Our top choices were a falafel
and tahini dish and a fish
shawarma made with yogurt,
eggplant, and pickled onion.
Fish lovers will be equally
pleased with the abundance
of fish entrees. Our taste buds
were energized and ready to
try more Israeli foods.
Falafel at Happy Fish in
Jerusalem
Machneyuda
Reservations at Machneyuda may not always be available because it is considered one of Jerusalem’s best Mediterranean
restaurants. To assure a spot, I recommend making a reservation well in advance of arrival. Eric warned us not to anticipate a
romantic endeavor. By 6:30 PM, this popular restaurant was filled with at boisterous crowd.
While we struggled to maintain a conversation at our second-floor table, we loved the innovative dishes that we shared. Most
notable was the Yellowtail starter with baladi cucumbers and an assortment of summer greens in a sour loquat juice, and tuna
toro skewers served with okra, coriander, and sliced lemon.
Our first of many cheat deserts was a chocolate sesame bar garnished with abadi caramel, sesame ice cream, and coffee
anglaise. We strolled back to the Mamilla Hotel to end our first full day of adventures in Jerusalem.
Tuna Toro at Machneyuda in Jerusalem
Yellowtail Starter
at Machneyuda
in Jerusalem
35

Restaurants
Chakra
Another one of Jerusalem’s culinary treasures is Chakra.
While this restaurant is just as popular as Machneyuda, the
tempo is more relaxed, and the background noise is minimal.
Spicy Tuna on
toast at Chakra
in Jerusalem
After sharing two Mediterranean inspired appetizers— a
spicy tuna on toasted bread starter and a tuna kabob labaneh
and tomato salsa starter, we both ordered a soy caramelized
salmon fillet with broccolini and mashed potatoes. We
couldn’t resist sharing another chocolate desert. This time,
we savored every bite of the Valrhona nemesis, a dense dark
chocolate cake dusted with cocoa powder and complemented
with two scoops of homemade vanilla ice cream.
Manta Ray
One of our favorite restaurants in Tel Aviv is Manta Ray. Delicious seafood combined with a beachfront location makes
this place a top choice for romantic pescatarians. However, trying to find this restaurant when there was an enormous
number of people attending a beach festival was a bit of a challenge, especially when Google Maps decided not to
cooperate. Luckily, the restaurant honored our reservation that was slightly before sunset.
While watching surfers try their luck and families walk along the shoreline as the sun dipped into the horizon, we
reviewed the menu. Before our main courses were delivered to our table, we were able to select several vegetarian and
fish starters from a tray brought to our table. To leave room for our sea bass and grouper entrees, we narrowed down our
choices to three starters.
Our love for fresh fish was more than satisfied at Manta Ray.
Sea bass entree
at Manta Ray in
Tel Aviv
Tray of starters
at Manta Ray in
Tel Aviv
36

Restaurants
Mitzpe Hayamim Spa Hotel
Hotels perched above a rural countryside are rarely
within walking distance of restaurants. With a captive
audience, these destinations assume that most guests
will be dining onsite. After experiencing the breakfast
buffet, we were happy to eat meals with ingredients
harvested from the onsite organic farm.
Section of Dinner Buffet
at Mitzpe Hayamim
The evening buffet showcases an abundance of
seasonal vegetarian dishes, foods made with dairy
products, and numerous fish options. Guests seeking
lighter fare can request made to order foods at the
reception desk in the lobby.
Beresheet Resort
In the Negev Desert, restaurants are in short supply. But
if you are staying at The Beresheet, your hunger will be
easily satiated at either their meat or dairy restaurant. After
making a few stops in Sderot to learn about what it is like
to live adjacent to Gaza, and then spending time with Yaron
Bob at his Rockets into Roses workshop, we didn’t arrive
at the Beresheet until late afternoon. By then our appetites
were soaring.
Sitting on a patio overlooking the Makhtesh Ramon, we
chose to have an early dinner. We ordered a hearty salad
along with a margherita pizza while we stared into the
amazing crater. A generous-sized fresh fruit platter balanced
out this meal.
Vegetarian burger
at The Beresheet
in the Negev
After a full-day of activities—an energizing early morning
hike, an educational two-hour jeep tour into the crater
and time swimming in the award-winning infinity pool—we enjoyed a leisurely buffet dinner in the Rosemarine
Restaurant. In addition to an abundance of self-serve items, we ordered our main course, a mushroom burger made
from a combination of mushrooms and lentils and topped with a chipotle aioli sauce. It was accompanied by a portion of
shredded potatoes and house pickled vegetables. This vegetarian burger had both a wonderful texture and favorable taste.
Our last sampling of the hotel’s cuisine occurred when we ordered nutrient-dense fish sandwiches from the weekend
lobby menu before departing for the airport.
Highlights from our 12-day trip to four regions captures an overview of Israel’s diverse cuisine.
To maximize your culinary experience in Israel, visit more than one city, eat in a variety of
restaurants, try local food vendors, and participate in food workshops and tours.
37

FALL INTO WELLNESS AT
GREEK THERMAL SPAS
Story and Photos by
Alex Kallimanis
Sweeping views
of the Aegean Sea
from atop Kavala’s
Acropolis Castle.
With peak summer travel in the rearview
mirror, autumn is a wonderful
time for a wellness trip in the cradle of
western civilization. Early fall means the
Aegean and Ionian Seas are still an ideal
temperature for swimming along sandy
beaches and rocky coves - sometimes
adjacent to an archeological site like the
Sanctuary of Hera, along the Corinthian
Gulf.
The ancient Greeks enjoyed taking to
the waters, including thermal baths,
over 2,500 years ago. Remnants of
Ancient Greek bathhouses can be found
at archeological sites around Greece,
like Philipi in Kavala and Pella (the
birthplace of Alexander the Great).
The tradition of public baths continued
during Roman and Ottoman
38
occupations, while spreading across
Europe. Visitors today can enjoy a
wealth of thermal Greek spas around
the country. Several are members
of the European Historic Thermal
Towns Association (EHTTA), which
encompasses 49 members in 17 countries.
“Historic Thermal Towns” is a designated
Cultural Route of the Council of Europe.
Loutraki Thermal Spa is an EHTTA
member located in the lovely seaside
town of Loutraki, 50 miles (81 km) west
of Athens, near Corinth. 3,000 years ago
the community was called Thermae, and
ancient Greeks bathed in the thermal
waters to heal and rejuvenate.
Large indoor and outdoor pools at
Loutraki Thermal Spa feature waterfalls
and jets to massage your back. Alternate
between the warm and cold pools for
maximum effect at reducing stress,
improving blood circulation and
treating other ailments. Then enjoy the
sauna and steam bath (Hammam).
The nearby Drinking Therapy Center
is gorgeous. Ornate tile frescoes inspire
visitors immediately upon entry.
Thermal water is sourced naturally
at an optimal 30 degrees Celsius. It’s
packed with minerals ideal for flushing
toxins from internal organs and aiding
digestion.
The beautiful 5-star Club Hotel Casino
Loutraki features tall palm trees
alongside olive trees dating over 1,000
years old. They magnificently adorn
a gorgeous seaside infinity pool right
along the beach.

Beautiful Loutra Pozar thermal
waterfalls in Almopia, Greece
39

The Sanctuary of Hera rests along
the Gulf of Corinth near Loutraki,
Greece
For those looking to get off the beaten
track, visit northern Greece. Loutra Pozar
in Almopia, near the Republic of North
Macedonia offers opportunities to view
vibrant autumn leaves while soaking under
majestic thermal waterfalls. Warm and cold
waterfalls and pools are nestled among tall,
forested mountains. Paradosiako Hotel
and Restaurant offers a charming stay and
delicious kitchen.
40
Getting fully soaked in thermal
mud is the proper treatment at
Krinides Mud Baths in Kavala
A 90-minute drive from Thessaloniki,
Halkidiki is a popular vacation destination
in northern Greece. It’s known for jutting
peninsulas, dotted with forests, sandy
beaches and crystal clear turquoise water.
The westernmost peninsula of Kassandra
offers modern resorts, excellent seaside
tavernas, like Takis Fish Tavern in Fourka, and
nightclubs.
Agia Paraskevi (Halkidiki Spa) is a great
thermal spa located in the town of Loutra,
which means “bath” in Greek. The thermal
waters at Agia Paraskevi are sourced from a
natural sulfur spring below the mountain.
Halkidiki Spa features indoor and outdoor
thermal pools, saunas and steam rooms.
The outdoor pools, jacuzzi tubs, spacious
terrace, and therapeutic massage room feature
sweeping views of the Aegean Sea.
Artemis Plaza Hotel in Loutra is a few
minutes walk to Halkidiki Spa. Rooms
are spacious, with comfortable beds, air
conditioning, full-sized refrigerators,
kitchenettes and large balconies.
The Krinides Mud Baths offer a unique
experience in beautiful Kavala, Greece. Mud
therapy can provide relief for skin conditions
like eczema and alleviate certain injuries. Soak
and roll around in the mud pool, mixed with
natural thermal water for optimal therapeutic
wellness.
Kavala is wonderful for a beachside getaway,
set amongst centuries of history, in eastern
Macedonia, Greece. The top of the Acropolis
Castle offers sweeping views of the Bay of
Kavala and nearby island of Thasos.

The Aqueduct of Kavala (Kamares), is
a well-preserved aqueduct built during
the Ottoman occupation of Greece in
the 16th century. Another impressive
highlight is the beautiful golden mural
depicting St. Paul’s travels to Kavala at
St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church.
Andros Chora offers authentic Greek
charm and lovely beaches
The 5-star Lucy Hotel Kavala offers
a luxurious beachside stay with
complimentary beach umbrellas for
guests. Comfortable rooms feature
spacious balconies with fantastic views
of the Aegean Sea, beach and city.
Agistro (Agkistro) is nestled just a few
kilometers from the Bulgarian border.
Fort Roupel offers sweeping views and
important World War II Greek military
history. A fresh trout farm, fantastic
local meats like water Buffalo, fresh
vegetables and small batch tsipouro
makes their culinary scene outstanding.
Beachfront room at the
5-star Lucy Hotel in
Kavala, Greece
Agistro Hamam offers a variety
of indoor-thermal pools ideal for
wellness. Ornate tiles adorn the walls
of the baths, offering a throwback to a
bygone era. After alternating between
hot and cold pools, enjoy the sauna and
steam room (Hammam).
Near Agistro, Lake Kerkini National
Park is Greece’s second largest lake
and one of Europe’s most impressive
wetlands. Thousands of birds
like flamingos, pelicans and ibis
congregate at Lake Kerkini during their
migrations. Itavros small boat tour is
the bird-watching equivalent of viewing
diverse wildlife in the Serengeti of
Tanzania.
Lake Kerkini National Park,
in northern Greece, near the
Bulgarian border, is a bird
watcher’s paradise
The Wooden Village (To Xilono
Chorio) in Agistro offers spacious and
modern wooden and stone cabins.
Amenities include comfortable beds,
air conditioning, refrigerator, flat
screen TV, fireplace, large balconies,
pool and a fantastic on-site restaurant.
41

Venetian Castle Bridge in
Andros Chora
Andros offers 300km (186 miles) of trails for all levels from
casual hikers to mountain climbers. It’s ideal for outdoor
wellness and a digital detox, offering a more authentic experience
than visitors often encounter on the more touristy Greek islands.
The impressive neoclassical architecture of Andros Chora has
been home to many Greek shipping magnates over the past few
centuries. Chora’s Pedestrian Street is lined with great restaurants
like Endochora and cafes like Fresco Juice Bar. Purchase local
artisan products like honey, olive oil, wine, figs and jams from
boutique shops. Visit Zairis Patisserie for fantastic Greek pastries
and unique creamy homemade ice cream flavors like mastiha.
Tourlitis Lighthouse, built in 1897 atop a tiny rock island, is one
of the most iconic images of Andros. It’s a whimsical lighthouse
with winding stairs leading to the base of the tower.
No trip to Greece is complete without visiting
a Greek island! There are around 6,000 islands
in Greece, 227 of which are inhabited. Autumn
offers an opportunity to visit popular islands
like Santorini, Rhodes, Mykonos, Crete, Hydra,
Naxos and Paros, with fewer crowds and better
deals.
Off the typical tourist trail, Andros is the closest
Cyclades island to Athens. Just a 2-hour ferry
ride from Athens’ port of Rafina, it’s the second
largest Cyclades island. It’s popular with Greek
tourists in summer, but lesser known among
international visitors.
Climb the old Venetian bridge, part of a Venetian Castle that was
bombed during World War II. The sweeping views of Andros
Chora and Tourlitis Lighthouse from the small island over the
Venetian Bridge are fantastic.
Situated along Kypri Beach, Andros, all 44 of Hotel Perrakis’
rooms have balconies overlooking the Aegean Sea. It’s a
charming setting to relax while watching the sunset.
Set amongst stunning scenery, ancient history and one of the
world’s best culinary scenes, Greek thermal spas are ideal for
a fall wellness getaway to relax and rejuvenate your mind and
body. Consider getting off the beaten path, while taking a break
from your phone to ponder ancient history, enjoy picturesque
hiking trails, and take in stunning vistas around Greece!
Whimsical Tourlitis Lighthouse
in Andros, Greece was
completed in 1897
42

43

Undated
historical photo
of Bertha Benz,
the world’s
first dominated
woman driver
and driver of a
long-distance
road trip.
Courtesy Bertha
Benz Memorial
Route.
One of ten certified hand-made replicas of the original
Dr. Carl Benz “Patent-Motorwagon” produced by
Mercedes-Benz to commemorate the company’s recent
100th anniversary, on display at the Midwest Dream Car
Collection in Salina, Kansas. This is the model Bertha
Benz drove on her history-making road trip between
Mannheim and Pforzheim, commemorated as the Bertha
Benz Memorial Route. Photo courtesy of the museum.
The Bertha Benz
Historical Road Trip in Germany
Story and Photos by Evelyn Kanter
Today, she would be a successful blogger,
influencer and videographer. Then, she
was just a housewife hoping her husband’s
new business would succeed.
She was Bertha Benz, wife of the
mechanical engineer who had invented and
patented the world’s first “vehicle with gas
engine” in 1886. Dr. Carl Benz was building
them, but they weren’t selling.
One day, she piled two of their children
into one of his contraptions and set off on
a 130-mile round-trip journey from home
in Mannheim to Pforzheim, where her
mother lived. It doesn’t matter if she just
wanted to get out of the house or if she
knew instinctively that her escapade would
kick-start sales, but it made her a pioneer
and an inventor, like her husband.
44
It was the first documented drive by
a woman and the first road trip by
anybody. She was followed by cheering
crowds attracted by minute-to-minute
updates telegraphed by newspapers.
She made history, and Carl later said
she popularized the automobile,
even though they scared horses and
pedestrians. Within a decade, business
was booming, and so was our non-stop
worldwide love affair with cars.
Engineer Carl incorporated Bertha’s
road trip discoveries into his vehicles,
making them safer and more efficient.
She recognized that brakes would need
a liner to prevent overheating, and
suggested he add gears for climbing
up and down hills. That’s in her 1890
version of a blog, known as a diary.
Germany has honored her original drive
as The Bertha Benz Memorial Route,
with historical markers and designated
stops. It took her one full day each way
to negotiate the rutted roads carved
by horse-drawn carriages, but it took
me longer, even on fully paved roads,
since there’s so much to see and do in a
combination of sleepy small towns and
bustling cities.
Plaque on Town Pharmacy in Wiesloch,
Germany, acknowledging its history as
the world’s first refueling stop. Placed
there in 1990, the 100th anniversary of
the headline-making 130-mile round trip
by Bertha Benz and two of her children,
between Manheim and Pforzheim.

Dr. Carl
Benz,
seated on
one of his
original
vehicles.
Photo
courtesy
Mercedes-
Benz
Museum
The 1886 original
vehicle that
Bertha Benz made
famous, which
scared horses and
pedestrians.Photo
courtesy Mercedes-
Benz Museum
Original 1886
German patent for
“vehicle with gas
engine” by Dr. Carl
Benz, two years
before Gottlieb
Daimler patented a
similar invention,
setting off a fierce
competition that
lasted until just
after WWI, when
the two companies
merged to form
Mercedes-Benz.
Photo courtesy
Mercedes-Benz
Museum
PHOTOS FROM MERCEDES BENZ MUSEUM
MANNHEIM
Its location on the Rhine and Neckar
rivers has made it a wealthy center of
commerce and culture since the 1500s.
The impressive baroque palace is one of
the largest in Europe and dates from the
1600s. Arrive hungry when you visit the
Fressgasse, loosely translated as “street of
food”, a pedestrian zone of grocery and
gourmet shops and restaurants.
https://www.germany.travel/en/citiesculture/mannheim.html
LADENBURG
The family moved here in 1906, when
the newly named Benz and Sons
needed a larger manufacturing facility.
There’s a small museum in the old
factory, and the simple graves of Carl
and Bertha are a few blocks away.
HEIDELBERG
Now one of the most popular tourist
spots in all of Germany for its romantic
vistas, including its stone bridge and the
monumental Schloss Heidelberg hilltop
castle, which includes the world’s largest
wine cask, big enough to walk into. Save
your energy and take the funicular to
the top. My favorite restaurant is the
175-year-old Zum Roten Oschen (The
Red Ox), downtown, where photos of
famous patrons including Mark Twain
and Marilyn Monroe decorate the walls.
https://www.heidelberg.de/english/
Home/Visit.html
Panoramic view of Heidelberg, with its
famous hilltop castle dominating the skyline,
along the Bertha Benz Memorial Route.
Photo courtesy Heidelberg Marketing.
Graves of Dr. Carl Benz and wife Bertha
Benz in Ladenberg, Germany, where he
founded Benz and Sons in 1906
45

WIESLOCH
The world’s first known refueling stop was an apothecary,
which in those days was the only place to get the alcoholbased
liquid to fuel such a primitive two-stroke motor. The
old Town Pharmacy is still there, on the quiet main street
of this still small village, marked with a plaque for its role
in automotive history.
BRUSCHSAL
Interior of one of the jaw-dropping rooms in the
ornate Bruschal Palace, a Baroque gem dating
from the 1750s, along the Bertha Benz Memorial
Route. Photo courtesy Castles & Gardens of
Baden-Wurttemberg.
Archeological excavations indicate this town has been
inhabited since 4000BC, but it is best known today for its
ornate palace, built in the 1750s. The interior and palace
gardens are equally drool-worthy.
https://www.schloss-bruchsal.de/en/visitor-experience/
palace-garden/buildings/the-bel-etage/ceremonial-halls
HOCKENHEIM
This famous track is where Formula 1 races are held,
and where manufacturers test their new vehicles. There’s
also Museum of Motorsports, which includes pioneering
women race drivers. I’m sure Bertha Benz is smiling down
on those exhibits.
SCHWETZINGEN
My favorite vehicle in the Mercedes-Benz Museum
in Stuttgart is this 1936 500K Supercharged
Compressor cabriolet (convertible), the most
powerful and expensive vehicle of its time.
The Schwetzingen Castle is another eye-popping 1700s
wonder, but the real treat here is spargel, from the farms
surrounding the town. These are delicate shoots of
white asparagus, cut below the surface before they turn
green. Each April and May, restaurant menus throughout
Germany sprout platters of spargel, usually served with
thick slices of shinken (ham). Schwetzingen makes an
unusual spargel schnapps, or brandy. My small souvenir
bottle (which I refuse to open and drink) has a spargel tip
inside.
PFORZHEIM
1939 concept vehicle at the Porsche Museum
in Stuttgart, designed by Ferdinand Porsche,
who also designed the VW Beetle.
It didn’t exist yet when Bertha Benz visited her mom, but
both probably would have loved exploring the Museum of
Jewelry, with artifacts dating back to Greco-Roman times,
more recent Art Deco items, and a pocket watch collection.
The German word for jewelry is schmuck – pronounced
shmook. Don’t mispronounce it.
https://www.schmuckmuseum.de/en/index.html
46

ALSO WORTH VISITING
JUST OFF THE BERTHA BENZ
MEMORIAL ROUTE:
STUTTGART, home of both Mercedes-Benz and
Porsche, and each offers a spectacular museum.
The MERCEDES-BENZ MUSEUM follows
a timeline of motorized history, through a peek into the future
and the promise of autonomous driving. My favorite car on
display there is not the iconic 1950s gullwing sports car; it is a
1930s 500K, one of the most expensive and powerful vehicles of
its time, a gleaming beauty on display in what I call Drop Dead
Red. I wore a red top the last time I visited, in its honor.
https://www.mercedes-benz.com/en/classic/museum/
Small museum devoted to Dr. Carl Benz and
his pioneering “vehicle with gas engine” in
Ladenberg, Germany, where the family lived.
GOTTLIEB DAIMLER patented his own version
of what he called the “Motorwagen” in 1888, two years after
the Benz patent, each claiming theirs was the first. The two
remained fierce competitors until 1926, when they were forced
to merge by German banks in an effort to save money by
consolidating R&D and manufacturing.
The merger also was intended to make wider use of Daimler’s
talented engineer and designer, Ferdinand Porsche. But he quit
in a dispute over racing – he wanted to, Daimler didn’t. Porsche
formed his own company, which included creating – at the
request of Hitler – an affordable little vehicle, which became the
VW Beetle (Volkswagen translates as “people’s car”).
The equally fascinating PORSCHE MUSEUM
is equally divided between the company’s impressive racing
history and its cars for the rest of us. My favorite exhibit is the
“sound cones” – stand under them to hear the throaty rumbles
of different engines. Yes, there’s a difference.
https://www.porsche.com/usa/aboutporsche/porschemuseum/
Exterior of the Mercedes-Benz Museum in Stuttgart,
with the iconic 1950s 300SL gullwing sports car out
front. Photo courtesy Mercedes-Benz Museum
I must mention the sleepy village of WALDORF, the
town from which John Jacob Astor emigrated to America, where
he became fabulously wealthy. You may have heard of the hotel
he named after himself and his hometown – Waldorf Astoria
– now an international chain. It’s also the town where my own
beloved Oma (grandmother) was born and grew up before
coming to America.
Evelyn Kanter is a travel and automotive journalist based in
NYC, who visits Germany often.
Follow her on www.ecoxplorer.com,
where a version of this article also has been published.
Author Evelyn Kanter, after doing “hot laps”
at the Indianapolis 500 racetrack, in a vehicle
similar to those used in races on the equally
world-famous Hochenheim racetrack along the
Bertha Benz Memorial Route. Photo taken by
the museum director.
47

Bird on breaker
Harbor Docks signage
Story, Photos, and Video by Dennis Cieri
See Video on TWI Website!
The Food is servered
Lion Fish in the water
48
nown for its fresh
seafood, beautiful beach
views, exceptional service
and family-friendly atmosphere,
Harbor Docks has been a Destin
restaurant tradition since 1979.
Owner, Eddie Morgan, told us
about the history of the restaurant
and gave us a tour. Our family was
excited to try out the menu and, in
particular, the lionfish.
Lionfish, though delicious,
are often viewed as menaces
of the sea. Adult lionfish, first
spotted along the Atlantic
coast about forty years ago,
are primarily fish-eaters
and have very few predators
outside of their home range.
Researchers have discovered
that a single lionfish residing
on a coral reef can reduce
recruitment of native reef fish
by 79 percent. Lionfish feed
on prey normally consumed
by snappers, groupers, and
other commercially important
native species. This means
their presence can negatively
affect the well-being of valuable
commercial and recreational
fisheries.

Duster
cooking
Lion Fish
s lionfish
populations
grow,
they put
additional
stress on
coral
reefs. A study of a coral reef
in the Bahamas found that two
years after the rise in the lionfish
population, “the biomass of
the 42 species that lionfish eat
had declined by 65 percent.”
Lionfish eat herbivores, and
herbivores eat algae from coral
reefs. Without herbivores, algal
growth goes unchecked, which
can be detrimental to the reef ’s
health. These reefs are already
struggling from the effects of
climate change, pollution, disease,
overfishing, sedimentation, and
other stressors. This has led to
seven coral species in lionfish
infested areas as being listed as
“in danger”.
Yoshi
preparing
Sushi
Lionfish continue to expand at
astonishing speeds and are harming
native coral reef ecosystems in
the Atlantic, Gulf of Mexico, and
Caribbean. Biologists suspect that
lionfish populations have not yet
peaked in the Gulf of Mexico, which
means that their demand for native
prey will continue to increase. Recent
research has also revealed that lionfish
can tolerate brackish coastal zones.
Mangrove and estuarine habitats may
also be at risk of invasion.
According to an article by Lina
Zeldovich, “Scientists aren’t sure
what preys on lionfish in their native
Pacific—possibly sharks or eels, whose
Atlantic counterparts may not have yet
learned to recognize lionfish as a food
source. Right now, the only predators
to keep them in check are humans.”
At Harbor Docks, as we watched the
sushi chef Yoshi Eddings prepare our
meal, she said, “I’m making sushi from
some beautiful lionfish caught here
in Destin, which I’ve never seen in
Tokyo... but it’s a very nice fish.” She
made a torched lionfish roll with fresh
yuzu, a popular Japanese citrus. She
also prepared lionfish sashimi with a
miso paste and vinegar mixture. She
said, “Lionfish has a clean, mild taste
so I like to keep it simple and let the
fish stand out.
You will enjoy it.”
We went back into the kitchen and
watched chef Duster Strawbridge
prepare a beautiful lionfish with a
ginger risotto. We appreciated getting
the chance to try the fish both raw and
cooked.
The sushi was tender and the cooked
fish was soft and flaky with a lovely,
unique taste. A way to eat a delectable
meal in a wonderful atmosphere while
also helping sustain coral reefs?
You can’t go wrong!
Beach in Destin, Florida
49

Discover International Flair with Endless Outdoor Adventures on Famous
Catalina Island
Catalina Island is a picture perfect island paradise and a world apart from the hustle and bustle of Southern
California—just 22 miles off the coast—where you’re transported to a Mediterranean-style island experience.
From the moment you arrive, your island life begins with breathtaking blue waters, green mountains
and a welcome stroll through the pedestrian-friendly town of Avalon or village of Two Harbors,
with beachfront dining, inviting cocktail establishments, and unique boutique shops.
Story and Photos by
Love Catalina Island
Tourism Authority
Once you’ve checked into your ocean view hotel, island bungalow or neighborhood
vacation rental, get a lay of the land with a joy ride in a golf cart (the preferred
mode of transportation for locals) and explore the town and scenic hillsides.
Plan to stay awhile, because Catalina Island has a legendary past and
amazing adventures like nowhere else.
Avalon Harbor at
Catalina Island
50

Soaring high above Avalon Harbor gives parasailers
a bird’s-eye view of Catalina Island.
Roam Wild on Catalina Island
Known for its outdoor activities,
Catalina is home to miles of hiking
trails and water activities that give you
space to roam. Serious hikers can opt
for the Trans Catalina Trail, a 38.5-
mile trek through the Island’s interior
that typically takes three to five days,
between Avalon and Two Harbors
with camping spots next to pristine
beaches along the way. To learn more
about the amazing plants, wildlife and
bison found on the island’s interior,
Eco Tours give you a much deeper
understanding of the 61 endemic
species of plants and animals that are
only found on Catalina Island.
Some of the most popular Catalina
Island things to do on land
include hiking, biking, golf, art &
museums, and zip lining for the
ultimate adrenaline rush. This
water paradise has endless activities
that include fishing, scuba diving,
snorkeling, parasailing, kayaking,
and paddleboarding. For a happening
beach vibe, soak in the sun on a chaise
lounge at Descanso Beach Club or
schedule a relaxing spa treatment to
settle into the island life.
Kayaking or paddle boarding on Catalina Island
is a great way to see the beauty of our island.
Experience the magic
of the underwater
world through scuba
diving on Catalina.
51

Lights, Camera…Catalina!
Mutiny on
the Bounty
was filmed at
Two Harbors
in 1935
(Courtesy
of Catalina
Museum
for Art &
History).
Cecil B. DeMille filmed his 1919 silent film called
“Male and Female” on Catalina Island (Courtesy
of Catalina Museum for Art & History).
Catalina Island has been the location
for more than 500 Hollywood movies,
reaching back more than a century
to Hollywood’s silent era, while also
proving popular for the shooting
of TV programs, documentaries
and commercials. But the island
has not only held allure for location
scouts. It has also proven irresistible
to Hollywood’s stars, such as John
Wayne and Marilyn Monroe, who
have gravitated to the island for its
appealing qualities: peace, quiet,
sunshine, secluded coves, pristine
waters and boating. Another
interesting and lasting impression
of this unique history was the
introduction of the North American
Bison to the island. The bison were
brought to Catalina for the film “The
Vanishing American” in 1924 and
never left. Now a herd of about 150
bison roam the island’s interior.
Enjoy a movie or see a show under the
twinkling lights of The Avalon Theatre’s
stunning art deco interior.
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Rich History & Iconic
Landmarks
William Wrigley,
Jr. opened the
Catalina Casino
on May 29, 1929,
which is actually
not a gambling
facility but “place of
entertainment” and
is Catalina Island’s
most recognizable
landmark.
From chewing gum magnate William
Wrigley Jr. to author Zane Grey,
Catalina Island has been home to
some of history’s most interesting
figures, and a favorite vacation spot
for others. Explore Avalon’s rich
history, famous landmarks, and
fascinating architecture. Take in the
Catalina Museum for Art & History
and explore the Wrigley Memorial &
Botanic Garden.
The Catalina Island Casino is without
a doubt Catalina Island’s most
recognizable landmark which is
actually not a gambling facility but a
“place of gathering.” The Casino played
host to dozens of Big Bands through
the 1930s and 1940s. Guests came by
steamship to Catalina Island to dance
the Charleston and later Jitterbug on
the huge parquet floor to the music of
Glenn Miller, Harry James, Kay Kyser,
and many others over the years.
Known as the “Island of Romance” after the popular “26
Miles Across the Sea” lyric it’s easy to sail away to the
beautiful shores of Catalina Island.
Island of Romance
Catalina Island is the perfect romantic getaway.
Known as the “Island of Romance,” after the popular
“26 Miles Across the Sea” lyric by The Four Preps,
it’s easy to plan a romantic getaway to Catalina
Island. The town of Avalon offers a unique romantic
setting with a distinctive European charm. Many of
the hotels and inns offer romantic amenities such as
champagne on ice with roses upon arrival, fireplaces,
jacuzzi tubs, private balconies, and ocean views to
spark your romance. Plan your own fairy tale such
as a memorable champagne toast overlooking the
picturesque harbor, have an intimate dinner and
stroll along the moonlit shore.
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Two Harbors on Catalina Island’s West
End, is full of exciting activities and
adventures ready to explore. Uniquely
nestled between two ports that is its
namesake. Ruggedly beautiful and
infinitely peaceful, this charming village
is surrounded by turquoise waters and
emerald green mountains that welcome
visitors to its sandy shores.
Home to only 298 people, this village
is the only other developed area on
the island besides the town of Avalon.
This small size makes for a cozy and
quiet beachside stay that many visitors
appreciate. Considered an “Outdoor
Lover’s Paradise,” the village offers
a plethora of outdoor activities for
nature lovers of all sorts. From boating,
to hiking, biking, kayaking, fishing,
camping, snorkeling or world-class
SCUBA diving.
Beautifully Secluded
Two Harbors
Two Harbors accommodations
include the historic Banning House
Lodge & Villas, a 12-room bed and
breakfast that offers panoramic views
of the harbor with daily breakfast
and complimentary shuttle from the
village. Two tranquil villas that can
accommodate up to 8 guests are also
available for rent. For the adventurer,
beachside camping is available at the
Two Harbors Campground.
Ruggedly beautiful and infinitely
peaceful, this charming town is
surrounded by turquoise waters
and emerald green mountains.
For history buffs, this area has a
robust and colorful story. Originally
inhabited by Native Americans, the
Isthmus was also home to Spanish
explorers, fur traders, Civil War
Union Army and even pirates!
Plan Your Perfect Catalina Island Vacation
Getting here is an adventure all its own
with a passenger ferry or helicopter
ride across beautiful Southern
California waters. Once you arrive,
our hotels and accommodations will
surprise and delight with their island
feel and laid back hospitality. From
shopping to thrilling adventures on
a zip line or paddle board, Catalina
Island is brimming things to do.
Unwind at the end of the day with a
meal at one of the many restaurants.
Check out our Catalina Island
vacation packages to make planning
your vacation stay easy. Whether
you’re coming for the weekend or for
a week, find all your travel plans on
the official travel website at:
LoveCatalina.com
A 15-minute helicopter ride from Long
Beach to Catalina Island is the fastest
way to paradise. Plus, choose from
breathtaking island helicopter tours.
Catalina Express whisks you
to Catalina Island in just about
an hour with up to 30 daily
departures from Long Beach,
San Pedro and Dana Point.
The Catalina Flyer is a
600-passenger catamaran ferry
offering round trip service between
Newport Beach and Avalon.
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@LoveCatalinaIsland @LoveCatalinaIsland @LoveCatalina_ @LoveCatalinaIsland

Visit Kitsap Peninsula
The Natural Side of Puget Sound
Ride the WA
State Ferry
Explore the
Water Trails
Visit Charming
Small Towns
Experience
Historic
Maritime
Culture
Enjoy local food and drink
VISITKITSAP.COM
visitkitsap visitkitsappeninsula
55

Celebrating 50 Years of the
National Marine Sanctuaries Act
Story and Photos by Wendy Lee
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mericans love their
national parks, and
for good reason.
Protecting over six
million acres of land,
the parks are places
of refuge, relaxation, and connection
to nature. It turns out there’s a similar
system for our oceans and lakes.
This fall marks the 50th anniversary
of the signing of the National
Marine Sanctuaries Act, an effort to
protect and conserve vital marine
environments in the United States.
Since the signing of the act in 1972
the list of sanctuaries has grown to
fifteen now protecting 620,000 square
miles of ocean and Great Lakes
waters.
Sanctuaries are created for a variety
of purposes from the protection of
a single Civil War shipwreck to the
conservation of ocean surrounding
coral reefs. Many are easily accessible
and open to regular recreation activities
like boating, fishing, and diving. Others
are remote and rarely see visitors.
A handful of sanctuaries offer visitors
centers to educate guests about the
area’s wildlife, habitat, research, and
recreational opportunities. Later this fall
Gray’s Reef National Marine Sanctuary
will open the newest visitors center in
Savannah, Georgia, coinciding nicely
with the 50th anniversary.

Here are four of the sanctuaries that
can be visited this fall and what to do
when you get there.
CHANNEL
ISLANDS
ombine Channel
Islands National
Park with its
surrounding
marine sanctuary,
and you have
a vast swath of
land and water in
Southern California
just waiting to be explored. Come
prepared to see plenty of marine
life including dolphins, whales,
Garibaldi, sea stars, sea anemones,
harbor seals, and more.
Dolphins swimming in the
Channel Islands National Marine
Sanctuary--photo provided with
permission by NOAA
View of the Channel
Islands National Marine
Sanctuary from the
national park
Fall is an especially good time to
visit because you’re likely to see
blue whales during their southern
migration. As the largest whale on
earth, these creatures can weigh up
to 400 pounds and reach lengths
of 98 feet. A number of tour
operators provide whale watching
cruises out of Ventura or Oxnard.
Kayaking around the Channel
Islands is the perfect way to
combine your exploration of
land and sea. Home to the largest
concentration of sea caves in
the world, the islands are full of
opportunities to paddle near or
through a cave. Float through a
massive kelp forest that protects
large schools of fish and watch
playful harbor seals bobbing up
and down. First timers should
consider an organized kayaking
tour with Channel Islands
Adventure Company.
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MONTEREY BAY
f Monterey Bay had a mascot, it would
be the sea otter. These marine
mammals provide endless hours
of entertainment to the visitors
of the Monterey Bay National
Marine Sanctuary in Central
California. Often they can be
seen in the giant kelp forest
close to the water’s edge where
they search for food.
A sea otter in the Monterey Bay
National Marine Sanctuary--photo
provided with permission by NOAA
Among the largest protected ocean
areas in the United States, the Monterey
sanctuary is larger than Yellowstone
National Park. This vast area is home to 36
species of marine mammals including sea otters,
dolphins, porpoises, and blue whales. In addition there
are 525 species of fish and 180 types of sea and shore birds.
With the summer season attracting large crowds to the Monterey Peninsula, fall is ideal for a quieter experience. And like
Channel Islands, this is the perfect time to watch migrating blue whales.
A highlight of any visit to Monterey Bay sanctuary is a kayak ride through the kelp forest. Sea otters are often seen floating
in rafts (groups of resting sea otters) and searching for food. The occasional harbor seal can be seen bobbing up and down
as well. Rent a kayak for a self-guided experience or take an organized tour with Adventures By The Sea.
HAWAIIAN ISLANDS
HUMPBACK WHALES
Humpback whale in the Hawaiian Islands Humpback National
Marine Sanctuary--photo provided with permission by NOAA
tarting in November and
continuing through April,
thousands of humpback
whales travel to the warm,
shallow waters of Hawai to
mate, give birth, and raise
their young. In fact half the
population of the North Pacific
humpback whales use these
waters seasonally. Hawaiian Islands Humpback
Whale National Marine Sanctuary protects
these whales and their habitat. While it is
possible to view the whales from land, many
visitors opt to join an organized whale watching
tour to see them up close.
To learn more about these magnificent creatures–along with all the other marine life–check out the Visitor Center in
Kīhei Maui. In front of the center is the native Hawaiian fishpond called Kōʻieʻie. The three-acre pond is one of the last
remaining intact traditional fish ponds along the south Maui coastline.
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Other activities in the sanctuary include snorkeling, diving, surfing, paddle boarding, and recreational fishing.

FLORIDA KEYS
he protected waters of
Florida Keys National
Marine Sanctuary are home
to the only living barrier reef in the
continental United States. Starting
in the north, just off the shore of
Miami and continuing south around
Dry Tortugas National Park, this
sanctuary also encompasses expansive
seagrass beds, mangrove-bordered islands,
and more than 6,000 species of marine life.
Coral in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary--photo
provided with permission by NOAA
Diving and snorkeling are two of the most
popular activities in the sanctuary, both
great ways to get up close to the barrier reef
and explore all the marine life it protects.
If you prefer to stay out of the water, several operators offer boat tours. Be sure to seek out one of the Blue Star Operators,
companies dedicated to education and conservation.
Beyond marine life, Florida Keys sanctuary estimates it protects 1,000 shipwrecks. Among these are fourteen historic sites.
Along Shipwreck Trail are the remains of nine ships scattered a few miles offshore. An underwater guide is available for each
ship.
Fall is a nice time to visit Florida Keys as temperatures start to cool, the crowds dissipate, and prices are more affordable.
However, it’s also in the midst of hurricane season, so come prepared for rain and possible cancellations of water activities.
GET INTO YOUR SANCTUARY
t’s easy to drive past, sail through, or even fly over a national marine sanctuary and not even realize it exists.
Unlike our national parks with welcome signs and guarded entry points, sanctuaries often blend seamlessly
into the waters and land around them. So while they may take a bit more effort to find, it’s worth it. Those
waters are teeming with marine life and historic sites, all waiting to be explored. Be sure to check out the list of
sanctuaries in the United States and see which ones you can visit in the near future.
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