TravelWorld International Magazine Winter 2023

WINTER 2023
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE
Happy
Holidays
The Magazine Written and Photographed by North American Travel Journalists Association Members

Letter from the Editor
TravelWorld International Magazine
is the only magazine that showcases
the member talents of the
North American
Travel Journalists Association
FALL
2023
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL
MAGAZINE
It's the most wonderful time of the year!
It's true! The holidays are a time where the love and beauty in
our lives is intensified. We decorate, we celebrate, and we give
to each other. It's a splendid time to enjoy the romance of our
dazzling world!
In this issue we're inspired to see delightful Christmas Markets
in Dresden, Germany. Alternately, we can stay stateside and
experience the magic of the German Christmas markets right
in the heart of Chicago! Nearby, there are spectacular holiday
lights diplays in in the Ozark Mountains of Branson, Missouri!
Snow is always an essential element of holiday activities and
fun! We learn about the artistry and allure of a chic ski resort
in the French Alpine town of Courchevel. We also get some tips
on the benefits of several local boutique ski resorts.
Then we have wine! Some holiday wines from New Brunswick,
such as Maple Wine and Blushing Goose look delightful! On a
different culinary note, the comfort of Soul Food in New York
City can warm the heart!
Some stories take us farther away, where wintery conditions
can be experienced all year. We have two such stories ... one on
cruising Iceland, and another, with a sense of "polar opposites,"
discusses differences in cruising Acrtic destinations and
Antarctica. These are truly bucket list adventures!
We hope you enjoy our holiday travel stories!
Thank you to our talented NATJA writers
and photographers for sharing them!
Best Wishes for a Wonderful
Holiday Season!
Group Publisher:
Publishers:
VP Operations:
Editor in Chief:
Copy Editor:
NATJA Publications
Helen Hernandez &
Bennett W. Root, Jr.
Yanira Leon
Joy Bushmeyer
Omar Rodriguez
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS:
Daniele Auvray
Adrienne Cohen
Therese Iknoian
Michael Hodgson
Michelle Marine
Barbara Gibbs Ostmann
Rose Palmer
Cori Solomon
Kathryn Wagner
Nisani Walser
DMO CONTRIBUTORS:
ExploreBranson.com
dciMarketing.com
Editorial /Advertising Offices:
TravelWorld International Magazine
3579 E. Foothill Blvd., #744
Pasadena, CA 91107
Phone: (626) 376-9754 Fax: (626) 628-1854
www.travelworldmagazine.com
Historic Christmas Markets in Dresden Therese Iknoian & Michael Hodgson 6
Branson Celebrates an Ozark Mountain Christmas Barbara Gibbs Ostmann 12
The Magic of Germany in the Heart of Chicago Michelle Marine 16
A French Alps Chic Chalet in Courchevel Daniele Auvray 22
Polar Opposites, Actic vs Antarctic Adrienne Cohen 28
6
Happy Holidays
16
12
Joy Bushmeyer, Editor in Chief
2
Cover Photo
Cover photo provided by Therese Iknoian
"A Christmas market’s illuminated booths, festive lights, and
people shopping and mingling are a joy to experience and to
photograph. The holiday cheer is nothing short of contagious.
I used a tripod and a longer exposure to brighten the scene
and blur the people to impart a feeling of energy."
Therese Iknoian
Volume 2023.04 Winter 2023. Copyright ©2023
by NATJA Publications, Inc. All rights reserved.
Reproduction in whole or in part without written
permission is prohibited. Advertising rates and
information sent upon request. Acceptance of
advertising in TravelWorld International Magazine
in no way constitutes approval or endorsement by
NATJA Publications, Inc., nor do products or services
advertised. NATJA Publications and TravelWorld
International Magazine reserve the right to reject
any advertising. Opinions expressed by authors
are their own and not necessarily those of Travel
World International Magazine or NATJA
Publications. TravelWorld International Magazine
reserves the right to edit all contributions for clarity
and length, as well as to reject any material submitted,
and is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts.
This periodical’s name and logo along with the
various titles and headings therein, are trademarks
of NATJA Publications, Inc. PRODUCED IN U.S.A.
22
28
3

FALL
2023
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL
MAGAZINE
"This year, I want a
Christmas pageant with
some actual pageantry."
- Vacation
Your Vacation needs more than a few boughs of holly this Christmas. Branson
is a winter wonderland of excitement, filled with jolly festivals, show-stopping
holiday performances, and even an express train ride to the North Pole!
This year, give your Vacation the gift of an Ozark Mountain Christmas.
Discover more at ExploreBranson.com.
Happy Holidays
Holiday Wines from New Brunswick Cori Solomon 34
Boutique Ski Resorts Offer Visitors Buckets of Benefits Kathryn Wagner 38
New York City's Soul Food Warms the Heart in Holidays Nisani Walser 42
Unique Small Ship Adventures with Iceland ProCruises Rose Palmer 46
34
38
42
46
4
5

Put the City of Dresden on Your
German Christmas Market Visit Itinerary
Story by Therese Iknoian
Photos by Therese Iknoian and Michael Hodgson
Dresden’s Augustus Market at Christmas
is a kaleidoscope of lights, with the action
and color shown off in a long exposure.
A high platform at the
Striezelmarkt Christmas market
in Dresden lets people get a
look over the festivities.
6
Dresden, Germany takes its holiday
spirit very seriously. No wonder,
since it has what is called the oldest
Christmas Market in the world with
the “Striezelmarket” dating back to
the 1400s. If you want to enjoy the
Christmas spirit in Europe, then
Dresden should be the top of your list.
Doesn’t hurt that it’s not all that far
from the famous markets of Prague,
either.
While Dresden is most famous for the
Striezelmarket, the city actually has
many wonderful Christmas markets,
from quaint ones in small courtyards
to a gathering of booths surrounding a
church to ones worth exploring outside
the historic city center. No exploration
of German Christmas markets would
be complete without taking the time for
shopping for nostalgic décor, sipping
hot beverages, and nibbling on German
specialties. Think gingerbread baked
goods and fruit-studded cakes, sausages,
soups, and breads, combined with mulled
wine and other hot concoctions.
Of course, any visit to Dresden for
Christmas markets mean you’ll also want
to find time to explore the city’s history
and other sights. And Dresden has
plenty of things to see and do. It was
first mentioned as a dwelling on the
banks of the Elbe River in 1216. Sadly, it
was nearly flattened at the end of World
War II, then was part of East Germany
where it was a home to a large resistance
movement. There is no hiding some of
its darker past. Today, the city is still
rebuilding and renovating, with the
beloved Frauenkirche (Church of Our
Lady), which was practically destroyed
by Allied bombs, finally reopening in
2005.
Wondering what Christmas markets in Dresden are the best to see?
Since your time in Dresden is likely limited, we did the research for
you. We visited numerous Christmas markets, and tasted, sipped,
climbed towers for market views, as well as stayed out late to fully
experience all the festive lights and merry making. All this to ensure
that your Christmas market visits in Germany will be perfect!
To really get into the spirit, don’t forget about the classic hot
beverages around every corner: hot mulled wine and all those other
steaming beverages to warm your hands on cold December nights:
These days, there are many various brews to choose from. If you
can’t speak German, all those German Christmas market drinks
could be confusing. We lean toward the classic mulled wine, a.k.a.,
“Glühwein,” made with red wine and spices, but there is a lot to try
for the daring. Here is a guide to market drinks to help you figure
out your options.
Therese and Michael love a mug of
hot mulled wine ("Glühwein") to put a
smile on their faces on a chilly night.
7

Wandering the Christmas Markets of Dresden ... The sun will be setting pretty early in eastern Germany,
so you’ll have time explore a number of markets on any one night. Here is sampling:
Even the Dresden Church of our Lady has a
Christmas market wrapped around its perimeter.
The rotating
wooden pyramid
at the Dresden
Striezelmarkt
at Christmas is
recognized by the
Guinness Book as
the tallest in the
world at 48 feet.
This is THE market, the oldest
allegedly in the world. Yes, it has
moved around a few times over
the centuries, but you can’t beat it.
Today, it takes place on the so-called
“Altmarkt,” or Old Market Square.
City representatives say 2.5 million
people visit this market each year. The
Striezelmarkt (“Stree-tsel-mark-t”)
prides itself on its rotating wooden
Christmas pyramid, now in the
Guinness Book of World Records as
the tallest in the world at 48 feet. By
the way, Striezel used to be what the
famous fruit-and-nut-studded Stollen
cake was called. Don’t miss climbing
the tower of the Kreuzkirche (Holy
Cross Church) neighboring the market
for really spectacular views and lights
of the Striezelmarkt.
A smaller cozy affair surrounds the beloved Church of our Lady (Frauenkirche) in Dresden and extends down
a small alley. There, you’ll find traditional items in the booths, from pottery to lace. This one also has a rotating
wooden pyramid that is 26 feet high.
At the Dresden Striezelmarkt, the
oldest Christmas market in the
world, a carousel entertains kids
and adults alike.
Christmas
Therese is definitely enjoying her
bowl of wurst and kale. Mustard?
But of course!
Lou and BaaBaa tasted some
sweet, buttery, dense, fruit-studded
German Stollen cake, thought to
have been created in Dresden.
The Neumarkt Christmas market is across the square from the
Frauenkirche. This is a simple affair without carousels and pyramids.
If you head into the QF indoor shopping mall next door, you can
saunter into the Stollen Market to taste a few different varieties of the
fruit-studded, buttery German Christmas cake called Stollen. Yes, and
you can buy some, too. When in the mall, head to the Visit Dresden
store for souvenirs, brochures, and any information you need about
Dresden Christmas markets.
8
So much amazing food to enjoy at
Dresden Christmas markets. Here,
spits of Mutzbraten, or roasted pork,
fill the air with wonderful aromas.
A medieval flair at the Stallhof Christmas
market sets it apart from others in Dresden.
Tucked away in a
courtyard off a side street,
the Stallhof market takes
on a medieval flair, with
vendors dressed for that
period and entertainment
emphasizing medieval
games. The enclosed
courtyard with arches is a
beautiful sight. Check on
a weekend entry fee.
In the
Stallhof
medieval
market, a
blacksmith
in
traditional
garb gives
a lesson
on working
steel over
hot coals.
9

This one sits in the middle of a busy intersection
in the center of town on “Post Office Square”
(Postplatz). No shopping, but drinks and munchies
as well as curling lanes that are fun to watch
– you’ll find locals gathering after work and
pretending they are in the alps at a ski hut.
The 850-year-old Castle Wackerbarth winery
transforms its grounds into a holiday affair.
The Alpine Hut Magic Christmas
market is a gathering place for locals.
Just across the Augustus Bridge on the side of
town known as Neustadt (New City), the Augustus
Christmas market attracts an international crowd
and leans toward amusement park and midway in
flavor. Nevertheless, a walk across the bridge for its
views of the city and looking out over the market’s
carousel is worth the trip. Yes, you’ll still find hot
mulled wine and holiday goodies to eat.
Passing street cars are blurred with
a long exposure in this photo of the
Augustusmarkt entrance and Ferris wheel.
Today much beloved, the historic Blue
Wonder (Blauer Wunder) bridge was
considered a technological miracle
when it was first constructed in 1893.
Not a market per se, but a winery that celebrates the Christmas season on its estate with lights on its
terraces and buildings, music, and booths selling wine and goodies. on its estate. The winery itself dates
back about 850 years -- and it claims to have the first recipe for mulled wine ever developed. You can buy
bottles there of that wine, now called “Weiss & Heiss” (White & Hot) that is a delightfully light take on hot
spiced wines. Just a 40-minute tram ride from Dresden town center.
Elbhangfest is a small, quaint
Christmas market with
tasty treats and local crafts.
This one is outside of town in an area called Loschwitz near the “Blue Wonder” Bridge. The market literally snakes its
way along businesses and down the slope toward the Elbe river (thus the “hang” part of the name, which means slope
in German). Take a tram or bus because it’s worth experiencing such a quaint community market with an emphasis on
natural, local, and organic goods. Don’t forget to take in the TWO, yes two, historic funiculars, right there.
When you head to Germany or Europe to take in the festive holiday
spirit at Christmas markets, Dresden with the oldest market in the
world offers a must-see look at the season it fully embraces.
10
11

12
Branson Celebrates
An Ozark Mountain
Christmas
From bright lights and Broadwaystyle
shows to Christmas trees and
showboat cruises, Branson, Missouri,
has it all for the holiday season.
Branson has been celebrating an Ozark
Mountain Christmas since 1988, and
the celebration gets bigger and brighter
every year. Whether it’s your first trip
or your fiftieth, you’ll find something
new to experience and enjoy.
The town square at Silver Dollar City is
ablaze with twinkling lights.
Photo Courtesy of Silver Dollar City
Story by Barbara Gibbs Ostmann
SILVER DOLLAR CITY with its
6.5 million lights (That’s equal
to 680 miles of lights!) takes first
place as the holiday must-see in
Branson. This family-friendly
theme park offers something for
folks of all ages -- from one to
92, as the song goes. At An Old
Time Christmas, you can enjoy
lights, parades, rides, musical
productions, shopping, seasonal
foods, and even a cave tour.
As soon as you enter the park at the
Town Square, you’ll be wowed by the
eight-story special effects Christmas
tree with a synchronized light and
sound show. Just down the hill at
Midtown, you’ll find the park’s most
dazzling light display, where 1.5
million lights shine in an array of
designs and form a twinkling tunnel of
lights. New this year is the canopy over
Valley Road with rows of gleaming red
and gold bells.
A Dickens' Christmas Carol, a
Broadway-quality production, is an
original musical adaptation of the
classic story by Charles Dickens,
with elaborate sets, flying ghosts
and pyrotechnic special effects.
Seeing this show is a longtime
holiday tradition for me and
thousands of other SDC fans.
Kids of all ages enjoy the nightly
Holly Jolly Christmas Light Parade,
led by Rudolph, the most famous
reindeer of all. Musical lighted
floats and dozens of costumed
characters wind their way through
the park. Look for 12-foot elves,
14-foot moose characters, 10-foot
candy canes, plus penguins and
marching wooden soldiers.
Staying true to its 1880s Ozark
village theme, the park showcases
more than 100 craftsmen. Watch
as glassblowers form colorful
ornaments, wood carvers create
carousel horses, blacksmiths
hammer out a variety of items, and
potters create beautiful bowls and
vases.
And you won't go hungry. Silver
Dollar City is known for its highquality
food service, from eat-onthe-go
funnel cakes to a prime rib
holiday buffet or traditional turkey
dinner. Buy a Tasting Passport for
an economical way to sample a
variety of the seasonal specialties.
Be sure to stop by Clara Belle’s
Cinnamon Bread Bakery for a loaf
-- or two -- of the irresistible, hotfrom-the-oven
cinnamon bread.
All this takes place within the
110 acres of the park, nestled
in the Ozark Mountains just
west of Branson. For a calendar
of operating days, visit www.
SilverDollarCity.com.
There is plenty of holiday-themed live entertainment
in Branson, where Christmas is celebrated from early
November through early January.
Photo Courtesy of Branson Convention and Visitors Bureau
Santa
appears
nightly in
the Holly
Jolly
Christmas
Light
Parade
at Silver
Dollar City.
Photo
Courtesy
of Silver
Dollar City
The 2023
Community
Christmas
Tree stands
next to the
Ferris wheel
in the heart
of Branson's
entertainment
district.
Photo Courtesy
of Branson
Convention
and Visitors
Bureau
13

Joy on Town
Square at
Silver Dollar
City features
this eight-story
special effects
tree with a
synchronized
light and sound
show.
Photo Courtesy
of Silver Dollar
City
The highest
concentration of
lights at Silver
Dollar City is in the
Midtown district,
where 1.5 million
lights sparkle.
Overall, the park
boasts 6.5 million
holiday lights.
Photo Courtesy of
Silver Dollar City
Christmas
Tree City
With more than 1,500 decorated
trees throughout the area, there’s
a good reason Branson is called
America’s Christmas Tree City.
This year’s theme is Evergreen
and Ever Glowing, celebrating the
city’s balance of nature and neon.
The 2023 Community Christmas
Tree, a 39-foot display decorated
with 6,000 lights and a neon sign
that wishes the observer a “Merry
Ozark Mountain Christmas,”
stands in front of the Branson
Ferris Wheel in the heart of the
entertainment district. From there
you can set out on the Christmas
Tree Trail, with GPS identifiers to
help you find the biggest and best
trees in Branson.
Before you begin your tree
treasure hunt, take time to ride the
150-foot-high Ferris wheel, which
was transplanted from Chicago’s
Navy Pier in 2016. There’s a free
light show every night, called
Electrify Christmas, set to holiday
music. Visit www.bransontracks.
com/christmas-at-the-wheel for
more information.
Top off your Branson visit with
a cruise on the SHOWBOAT
BRANSON BELLE on Table
Rock Lake. This 700-passenger
paddle wheeler is known for its
quality entertainment and food.
The Christmas cruises feature
music from the 1960s to today
with holiday favorites sprinkled
in, magic and comedy from the
master of ceremonies, and toetapping
footwork by the Showboat
Dancers. Afternoon and evening
cruises include a three-course
meal.
The little ones will love the Santa's
Pancakes and PJs cruises. Offered on
Saturday and Sunday mornings from
Dec. 3 to 23, the breakfast cruises begin
with a treasure hunt through the ship's
four decks as kids, clad in their PJs,
search for Sugar Plum Fairy sweet stops,
visit the ship's captain and write letters
to Santa. During breakfast -- featuring
pancakes -- a cast of holiday characters
presents story time and sing along. For
cruise times, visit www.silverdollarcity.
com/showboat-branson/.
BIG CEDAR LODGE, south of Branson
on Highway 86, is dressed up with
four million lights for its Home for the
Holidays activities, such as visits with
Santa, ice skating, holiday tram tours,
and craft classes. Next door at Top of
the Rock, the golf cart tour on the Lost
Canyon Cave and Nature Trail is decked
out for Nature at Night with Native
American and holiday themed light
displays. For more information, visit
www.bigcedar.com.
An enormously popular family
attraction is the Polar Express offered
by BRANSON SCENIC RAILWAY. This
train ride goes to the North Pole to pick
up Santa Claus. Kids are encouraged to
wear their pajamas for the train ride. The
book, "The Polar Express," is read out
loud, and all passengers enjoy hot cocoa
and cookies. Visit www.bransontrain.
com for information.
On a chilly day, you can warm up
inside the BUTTERFLY PALACE,
where butterflies, fluttering around like
snowflakes, are complemented by live
music, twinkling lights, a poinsettia tree
and Santa, who is available for photo
ops. The mirror maze, educational
videos and living rainforest science
center are also open, as is the gift shop.
For more information, visit www.
thebutterflypalace.com.
The Living Nativity production at Silver Dollar City.
Photo Courtesy of Silver Dollar City
It's Show Time
For many people, a trip to Branson
means going to as many shows as
they can fit in. I've been guilty of this
myself! But the truth is, there are so
many choices, it is easy to overload
the schedule in an attempt to do it
all. Pick up brochures in the racks
at any theater and restaurant, or
go online to www.explorebranson.
com and see what shows are playing
during your stay. Be sure to check
for any limited-time engagements by
visiting celebrity artists.
Although it is not a Christmas show,
we heartily recommend Queen
Esther at the Sight and Sound
Theatre. The opulent set, large cast,
special effects, live animals, and
an amazingly realistic animatronic
elephant all combine to wow the
observer while the Bible-based story
unfolds on stage. Queen Esther will
be showing through Dec. 30 and will
return in 2024.
For pure fun, try Dolly Parton’s
Stampede. Horses are the heart
of this show, with the addition of
holiday acts that will please all ages.
The living Nativity portrayal is
dramatic and spectacular. This show
includes dinner.
Shop Till You
Drop
And, of course, there is shopping.
After all, it is the holiday gift-giving
season. Shopping choices abound
in Branson, from the ever-popular
Tanger Outlet Mall to the diverse
shops and restaurants of Branson
Landing. Don't miss the beautiful
fire and light shows at the Branson
Landing waterfront and fountain.
We like the cozier shopping
options, too. The Grand Village
boasts a variety of shops, including
the eye-popping Kringles
Christmas Store, as well as several
eateries. You'll enjoy the singing
waiters at Mel's Hard Luck Diner,
and swoon at the stunning pastry
case at Sugar Leaf Bakery. A visit
to Dick’s 5 & 10 is a must-do in
Historic Downtown Branson.
An Ozark Mountain Christmas
offers a world of choices to ring
your holiday bells. So don't delay;
plan your Branson outing today.
Santa would approve.
Barbara Gibbs Ostmann,
a longtime season-pass
holder for Silver Dollar City,
lives on a farm in the Ozarks.
14 15

The Christmas
The Christmas Market scene in Chicago
Photo courtesy of Christindlmarket
Magic of Germany
in the
Heart of Chicago
Story by Michelle Marine
Photos by Michelle Marine
and Christkindlmarket
The Allure of the German Christmas Market
There are many reasons to visit the
Windy City during the Christmas
season. From ice skating at Millennium
Park, to seeing “A Christmas Carol"
Christmas markets began in Germany in the
1400s as a way to bring joy to a cold, dark
season by selling crafts, gifts, and Christmas
treats. Their popularity has spread all over
the world and millions of people visit these
beautiful markets every year. Indeed,
Christmas markets have become a global symbol
of Christmas traditions. There’s no better way
to get in the Christmas spirit than visiting a
quintessential Christmas Market, and we are
lucky to have one of the top Christmas markets
in the world in the middle of the US Midwest!
at the Goodman Theatre, catching
a riveting performance of "The
Nutcracker" by the Joffrey Ballet, or
enjoying a holiday meal at The Walnut
The Christkind
with Christmas
ornaments
Room inside Macy's, you will find
lots of ways to get into the holiday
spirit in Chicago. But we think one
of the most compelling reasons to
visit Chicago during the Christmas
season is to experience Chicago’s
Christkindlmarket. Once only
accessible on a European vacation,
Christmas markets modeled after their
German counterparts are now very
16
The Christkind in
Wrigleyville
popular in many places throughout
North America, including Chicago.
17

Chicago Christmas Market
Photo courtesy of
Christindlmarket
18
Holiday Entertainment Wrigleyville
Photo courtesy of Christindlmarket
Picasso Market Scene
Photo courtesy of
Christindlmarket
History of the Chicago
Christkindlmarket
Inspired by the traditional
Christkindlmarkt in Nuremberg,
Germany, the Chicago
Christkindlmarket started in 1996,
making it one of the first and most
well-known Christmas markets in the
country. It has played a significant
role in popularizing the concept of
Christmas markets in the United
States and continues to capture
the spirit of the holiday season
with its festive atmosphere and
authentic German-inspired offerings.
The German American Chamber
of Commerce of the Midwest has
done a great job planning Chicago’s
Christkindlmarkets for more than 25
years.
Locations and Dates
You’ll find the Chicago
Christkindlmarket at three different
location: DOWNTOWN DALEY PLAZA,
WRIGLEYVILLE, and RIVEREDGE PARK
in AURORA. The market is slightly
different at each location, but they all
feature the same candy cane striped
booths, the same food, and many of
the same vendors.
Not surprisingly, the Daley Plaza
location is the most iconic and also
the busiest, but all locations are
busiest in the evenings and on the
weekends. The Daley Plaza and
Aurora markets run from November
17 through December 24. The
Wrigleyville location runs from
November 17 through December 31.
Hours are typically Sunday through
Thursday 11 am to 8 pm and Friday
through Saturday 11 am to 9 pm.
Hours do vary by location, so make
sure to get up-to-date information
before you go.
Practical Tips for Visiting
Bring your appetite and wear your warmest
winter clothes when you visit one of the Chicago
Christkindlmarkets. To avoid crowds, we recommend
a day time visit on weekdays. If you can’t make that
time work, be prepared for large crowds and set
expectations accordingly. New for 2023 is the ability
to buy a Fast Entry Pass. For $25 a ticket, a Fast Entry
Pass gets you a 30-minute slot to enter the market
through a dedicated entrance on Saturdays and
Sundays without having to wait in line. You’ll also
get the annual souvenir mug as part of the Fast Entry
Pass ticket price.
Other tips for visiting the Chicago Christkindlmarket
include bringing cash and credit cards. Most vendors
accept credit cards, but you might need cash for
some old-fashioned holdouts. Also make sure you
have a parking plan, especially at Daley Plaza and
Wrigleyville. Take public transportation as available
or use SpotHero to find discounted parking.
What to Expect When You Visit
the Chicago Christkindlmarket
In addition to live music like polka bands and
carolers, you’ll find so many delicious Germaninspired
food and drinks! Make a list so you try
everything you want including bratwursts, potato
pancakes, stollen, lebkuchen, the famous Glühwein
(mulled wine), beer, and ice wine! We also loved other
European favorites like the Raclette sandwich, French
crepes, and Swiss hot chocolate. You definitely won’t
go hungry when you visit!
Be prepared for large crowds. My husband and I
visited in the middle of the day the second weekend
of December and were overwhelmed by the number
of people. To get into the market we had to walk in
line around the entire city block. We were surprised
by how fast the line moved; we rarely stopped
walking, but we walked in line for about half an hour.
By the time we got inside the market, there were
so many people that it was hard to move. Honestly,
the large crowd and long lines made it a little
unenjoyable and we didn’t stay long. Had we visited
during the week, or reserved a Stammtisch in the
heated tent, it would have been much better.
Phenix Trio
Photo courtesy of
Christindlmarket
Raclette
Menu
Phenix Trio
Photo courtesy of
Christindlmarket
Carolers Preview Party
Photo courtesy of
Christindlmarket
Pretzels
Stammtisch
Potato
PancakeVendor
19

Christkindlmarket Chicago Mug
Photo courtesy of Christindlmarket
o have a less crowded
experience, a girlfriend and
I went to the Aurora market
the next week on a weekday.
This market had very few people
in attendance and was so much
fun! We didn’t have to wait in line
for anything and we were able to
warm up inside a heated tent, a lovely
convenience given the brutally cold
weather. Parking was also very easy
and close to the market.
Homemade Finger
Puppets
Funny Chocolates
If you’re wondering what you can
buy at the Christkindlmarket, you’re
in for a treat! From German goodies
like nutcrackers, incense smokers,
Christmas pyramids, chocolates,
candy, and ornaments, to children’s
puzzles, jewelry, and fair-trade
textiles, we came home loaded with
German chocolates, homemade gifts,
and treats. Each location also has
a different souvenir mug available
for purchase and they do sell out, so
make sure you get yours!
Gluhwein & Beer sign
Photo courtesy of
Christindlmarket
Lantern Parade
Photo courtesy of
Christindlmarket
Lantern Parade
Photo courtesy of
Christindlmarket
Visitors enjoying Glühwein
Photo courtesy of
Christindlmarket
Photo Booth at the Aurora
Photo courtesy of
Christindlmarket
Pickle Ornaments for Sale
The other thing we really love about
this iconic holiday tradition is the
opportunity for children to learn
about German culture. Families
can take their kids to Aurora for
the Children’s Lantern Parade,
"Kinder-Laternenlauf" in German,
on November 26th or December
10th. This popular German tradition
happens every November or
December and involves children
parading through town at night
carrying twinkly handmade lanterns.
In Germany, the parade is led by
St. Martin or St. Nikolaus, but in
Aurora, the parade will be led by
the Christkind. During this special
ticketed event, children learn the
story of St. Martin, practice singing
traditional German songs, and then
parade through the Christkindlmarket
with lanterns. I have fond memories
of the Laternenlauf when I was a kid
in Germany and I know young kids
will have a great time!
Christkindlmarket Vendors
Photo courtesy of Christindlmarket
25th Anniversary
Mugs
Enjoying treats in the
warming tent in Aurora
With so many fun things to do and eat at the Chicago Christkindlmarkets, it’s no wonder
it has become such a popular event. You won’t want to miss this time-honored tradition,
where the spirit of Christmas comes alive in the heart of the Windy City.
20
21

A French Alps
Chic chalet
in Courchevel
Story and Photos by Daniele Auvray
In the land of the griffin, everything is possible.
Just make a wish and it will come true.
It’s magical!
Or so it seemed to Mrs Raymonde Fenestraz, a native of Courchevel, who
embarked on building the chalet of her childhood dream, a pure fantasy
of her imagination! She had set her mind to have her very own castle, and
with a bit of “Savoie-faire”, and to the dismay of many, she did just that!
As a no-nonsense “Savoyard” lady, Mrs. Fenestraz proved to be a visionary.
What she had initially intended to be her family home ended as a palace
hotel instead. It is now famously known the world over as “Les Airelles”.
Set Rue du Jardin Alpin in
Courchevel 1850, the hotel was
awarded “Palace” status in May 2011.
Among well known luxury hotels and French Alps ski-resorts, she
raised the bar high by setting a trend for excellence that challenged her
competitors. Surprisingly, she was entirely new to the hotel business and
had only worked as a real estate developer up until then. She decided to run
her establishment simply as the lady of the house, receiving her customers
as if they were her guests, greeting each one personally upon their arrival.
She spared no expense in pampering them, as a perfect hostess would. Very
soon, through word of mouth, she was the talk of the town.
As a well cut diamond shows many sides to the same stone, among all of
the excellent resort-hotels of Courchevel, some will just shine brighter than
others. Les Airelles is such a gem.
Les Airelles was built in only two years and opened in 1991, as the replica
of a Tyrolean chalet. It was architecturally appealing because of its small
scale. It blended perfectly with its surrounding forest of larch trees and
which, when snow covered it, gave it the appearance of the “ideal dream”
chalet. It looked like a perfect drawing coming right out of a Disney
animated movie!
A lot of research went into the making of that “dream come true" for the
Fenestraz family. Together with their architect and decorator, they toured
the Italian, Austrian and Swiss Alps looking for inspiration to build the best
and most beautiful ski-hotel possible.
Never too old for fairy tales and lulled by
a poetic waltz of snowflakes the merry-goround
is an intrinsic fixture of the village.
The Fenestraz family love for their native “Savoie” still can be felt in every
single detail, starting with the hotel’s name itself. “Les airelles” are the
wild berries found growing in the local mountains. Beautiful mountain
scenes and those of local plants and herbs grace the surfaces of the interior
corridors and dining room and on the hotel’s facade. These were created by
an imported Venetian painter in the elegant form of hand-painted “trompe
l’oeil” décor, a visual art style that creates realistic looking imagery.
22
With his superb uniform
the ski butler is in perfect
harmony with the elaborate
decor of the Palace and its
surrounding forest.
Les Airelles instantaneously became a sensation and was selected to host
the head of the olympic committee, together with Prince Albert of Monaco,
during the 1992 Winter Olympics, held in Albertville. Rumored to be
Courchevel’s number one ski resort hotel, it was known as “the place” to be
while in “Courch” for the who’s who of this “Rodeo drive” in the snow.
As seen in this fancy advertising post of
“L’atelier” ski shop in Courchevel 1850,
the mythical beast is still today very
much a part of the Savoyard psyche.
23

Fully renovated in 2017, the Savoyard spirit is tinged with an Asian sober and
elegant mood at Le Melezin. Suite’s outdoor hot tub, rewards guests with an
impressive view over the village, the Bellecote slope and surrounding mountains.
Several yars later, in 2007, Les Airelles was sold
out of the family by Mrs R. Fenestraz to a French
media mogul who liked to holiday in Courchevel. It
joined the LOV Hotel collection that same year and
received a complete makeover. It was renovated
by the best craftmen in Europe, using the noblest
materials. Tapestries were made to measure by
Laligant in brocaded fabric from Rubelli. Slant-top
desks secretaries were imported from Florence
and Italy and sublime armchairs were produced
by Laval.Even the floor tiles came from a Loire
chateau. The stove in the hall was manufactured
in Austria and all of the woodwork was made to
measure by Fournier in Switzerland. Each room
now had a universe of its own. Mrs R. Fenestraz’s,
private apartment, located on the fourth and final
floor, with beautiful panoramic views of the snowy
peaks, became the most prestigious suite of the
palace.
With four bedrooms and a décor that combinined
the style of an Alpine chalet with that of a 19thcentury
Austro-Hungarian chateau, the 650 square
meter establishment once again became available to
guests. The experience, guaranteed to be unique,
included the services of a butler, a Bentley with
chauffeur, a bar, a private spa, a home cinema, and
a terrace with an outdoor jacuzzi.
In the Jardin Alpin
across Les Airelles,
the Cheval blanc
luxury hotel, named
after a Bordeaux
Grand Cru, has the
only three Michelin
starred restaurant in
the entire resort.
24
Although most
luxury hotels have
their own pools,
spas and outdoor
jacuzzis; Courchevel
added in 2015 more
after ski fun with the
creation of a vast water park,
with many different areas, including
a large outdoor heated pool with
bubble jets. A fantastic experience,
especially when it is snowing!
With its rustic old wood, cut stone and
grand fireplace, this authentic Savoyard
restaurant stays true to its cultural heritage
and style. A perfect place for lunch, it sits
right on the Verdons slope. It is the best
choice for a pizza or burger with truffle, as
well as a seafood and lavish dessert buffet.
From low altitude forest to plunging corridors on the summits, all
level of skiers can enjoy the alpine beauty. Part of the three valleys
(Courchevel,Meribel,Val Thorens), an intermediate skier can easily
ski to Val Thorens and back on the same day.
25

Always perfectly groomed the ski slopes in
Courchevel benefit from over 700 snow cannons,
which cover the entire resort. If it is cold enough,
there will always be snow in Courchevel!
Located directly
under the rooftop,
the “Vanoise” corner
suite with 75 square
meters, a living room
with fireplace and
huge glass windows
perfectly framing the
outdoor snow scape
is a rare privilege.
On the Cospillot slope the K2 Palace
hotel is a hamlet of interconnected
chalets with an unpretentious outside
look that does not preclude the high
level of luxury that one can find
inside.
Designer
snow suits
grace the
ski run in
Courchevel.
While dinner at Les Airelles was
usually an elegant affair no one was
overly dressed and a rather casual
chic atmosphere prevailed. First, the
custom was to enjoy a drink or two
at the bar, recounting adventures and
comparing the day’s performances
amongst fellow skiers. Then, when
escorted to one's assigned table
under an exquisitely hand-painted
ceiling, one could hear the sound of
a roaring fire, crackling in the XIIcentury
fireplace on one side while
subdued melodies emanated from a
magnificient Steinway grand on the
other.
Courchevel has aged well since1946
and retains an easy going kind of
sophistication about it that makes
one feel at ease immediately. On the
Bellecote ski trail, first opened in
1992, the old Savoy hotel has been
entirely remodeled, inside out, with
a new designer facelift for the inside.
It is part of Amanresorts and was
rebranded "Le Melezin." Ed Tuttle,
the master behind the remodeling of
Le Melezin was also the architect of
the fabulous Amankila in Bali. He is
said to have provided the inspiration
for the Le Melezin design by creating
rooftop towers as seen on the Chateau
des Ducs de Savoie in Chambery.
The sandstone facade mixed together
with the slightly pinkish tone of the
larch wood gives it a fabulous appeal
which is utterly chic. Alternatively,
Tuttle may have tried to recreate it
as a replica of one of the fortresses
of Lhassa in Himalayan Tibet. In
any case, the effect is striking and
beautiful and it totally stands out
here on the slopes of the French Alps
among the Tyrolean décor of the other
buildings.
The Hermes carriage and its driver are
ready to enhance your Airelles experience,
while comfortably settle under a blanket,
and explore Courchevel in a new way.
De Chirico’s art piece
“I Grandi Archeologi”
transformed and
reinterpreted by
a snowfall is a
gorgeous sight.
26
One last reason to visit Courchevel ...
Courchevel ski resort holds a different
art exhibition every year. Ready to be
mesmerized some more? Head on to
Courchevel; just put on your skis and
enjoy a wonderful open air museum!
Fifteen years ago, the crazy idea was born to create an open air gallery in
Courchevel. Here, in front of the Hermes store, F.Botero’s sculpture “Leda and the
swan” gracefully frolics under the snow, for the contemplation of the passerby.
27

POLAR OPPOSITES!
Cruising to the Top and the Bottom of Earth
Several years ago I stood
on a promontory near
Sagres, in Portugal, the
southwesternmost point of
Europe, and looked out at the
sea, imagining the emotions
that filled the minds of early
15th-century explorers who
set sail from there to discover
new lands and sea routes.
Today, a beautiful lighthouse
stands at Cabo Sao Vicente to
guide vessels safely home from
worldwide voyages.
Story and Photos by Adrienne Cohen
Prince Henry, known as the
Navigator, founded a school
near Sagres in 1419 with the
goal of preparing sailors of the
time to explore the West African
coast. Previously, they had
feared the "Sea of Darkness" to
the south, near the equator. On
early navigational charts and
maps, it is said that areas beyond
the known world at the time
were marked with the notation
"BHBD," meaning "Beyond here
be dragons." Apparently it is
The Norway cruise
itinerary aboard
Island Princess – a
total of more than
4,000 nautical miles.
A map of
Mageroya Island.
Nordkapp is
sometimes called
the northernmost
point of Europe,
but that isn’t
quite true! The
island is reached
via an undersea
tunnel from
Mainland Norway.
not true, but I have always been
fascinated by the thought, with
the result that I consistently "push
the boundaries."
Henry’s school offered instruction
in navigation, map-making, and
science. It is credited with helping
sailors overcome their fears,
leading to the establishment of a
sea route to the Indies. Today, in
a sense, anyone who sets out for
new destinations follows in their
footsteps.
Cabo Sao Vicente lighthouse, Portugal
CREATING REALITY
FROM THE DREAM
The idea of traveling to the
Arctic Circle, and then to
Antarctica, became a growing
temptation for me, and then
a goal that needed to be
indulged!
In June of 2022, my husband
and I set out on a cruise from
Southampton along the coastal
fjords of Norway. The “prize”
was a visit to Nordkapp -- the
North Cape -- at the top of the
world. Then, in late January
of 2023, we embarked on a
second voyage from Chile to
Argentina, on an itinerary that
promised four days of sailing
the Antarctic Peninsula, close
to the bottom of the world.
As part of my research for that
journey, I had learned that
early sailors who rounded
Cape Horn at the tip of South
America earned the right to
wear a gold hoop earring in
their left ear, a testament to
the feat they had undertaken
the passage and survived
those extremely dangerous
waters. I was enthralled by that
idea.
Sadly, high winds and raging
seas prevented a local pilot
from boarding our vessel on
the day we were scheduled
to round the Horn. It is a
safety requirement these
days for ships planning to
circumnavigate the Cape
because the passage is still
considered treacherous.
Overcast skies even prevented
a photo op. But I wore the gold
hoop anyway! I had come close
enough.
allow us close-up views of small
fishing villages and farms along
the waterline. The itinerary
originally included a visit to
Longyearbyen in Svalbard,
Earth’s northernmost inhabited
island. It is home to the global
seed vault, also known as the
doomsday vault, where samples
of Earth's bounty are safely
stored should "the unthinkable"
occur.
That port call was canceled
just before the ship sailed from
Southampton. Instead, we
visited Lofoten, an archipelago
known for its stunning coastline.
Although at first disappointing,
it turned out to be a treat,
certainly a fair trade. Here
dramatic peaks soar into the
clouds, and communities with
brightly-colored buildings are
nestled onto narrow strips of
land adjacent to the sea.
28 29
Island
Princess
at anchor
among the
clouds of a
Norwegian
fjord.
TRAVEL AS ITS
OWN REWARD
Visiting earth's most distant
regions is a thrill. However,
such travel can test the
bounds of language, and my
descriptions are invariably
spiced with exclamation
points.
I'm not particularly
adventurous, and I thoroughly
enjoy my creature comforts,
so cruise ships, of late, have
become my vehicles of choice.
Besides, who can resist the
pampering, the food, and the
instant friendships that are
forged aboard a ship?
The Norway trip was on Island
Princess, a sturdy, classic
cruise ship, but not a megaship.
It was the perfect size
to navigate Nordic fjords and
Picturesque Honningsvag Harbor, the world’s northernmost
fishing village is not far from Nordkapp. Fishermen go out for cod,
a Norway staple, throughout the year.

Andalsnes, known as the mountaineering capital of the country,
boasts an indoor climbing facility right at the harbor. An adjacent
tram carries visitors to the top of a nearby peak for a stunning view.
Welcoming Troll
Banners –
and people,
nearly 6,000
participants –
filled the town
of Tromso for
the running of
the Midnight
Sun Marathon
on June 17,
2023
It can seem
as if stunning
waterfalls just
spring from the
mountains to
cascade down
to the farms
and villages
below. The
force from this
one sent spray
far across the
surrounding
hills.
THE THRILL OF
THE UNKNOWN
We called at Tromso, a city that
sprawls over two islands in a
coastal fjord well- protected
from the open ocean. It was on
the day of the annual Midnight
Sun Marathon. Runners from
all over the world converge on
Tromso during the summer
solstice to compete in this
women’s-only road race, first
held in 1972. We enjoyed local
beer at a tavern on the water
with a view of the soaring
modern Arctic Cathedral in the
background and talked to a
pair from Wisconsin who had
traveled to Tromso solely for
that evening’s competition.
Traveling north, the scenery
only becomes more impressive
and the people even friendlier.
We visited with indigenous Sami
reindeer herders, marveled
at cascading waterfalls,
snapped photos of immaculate
farmhouses, grazing sheep,
historic stave churches, and
quirky trolls. We sat on our
stateroom balcony late into the
evening, reading by the light of
the midnight sun.
Norway is nothing if not
fascinating. It’s extremely
modern, but its history extends
back to Viking settlements and
seafaring peoples who traveled
far afield to populate new lands.
At Nordkapp, on the island of
Mageroya, I had a chance to
stand once again on a rocky
promontory and look across the
sea to the unknown beyond! For
me, it felt like a prize. It was the
highlight of a journey filled with
superlatives.
The Sognefjord is Norway’s longest, deepest, and,
arguably, most beautiful of the country’s fjords. It
stretches a total of 204 kilometers inland, it also holds
the title of second-longest fjord in the world!
Olden, a charming small town with only about 500 residents, is
situated near the end of Nordfjord, an arm of Norway’s longest
fjord, and it was one of our first port calls.
TWO SIDES OF THE COIN
The imaginary line that defines Arctic and Antarctic circles
is at approximately 66 degrees 33 minutes 47.5 seconds
North and South latitude. Interestingly, almost half of
Norway lies north of the Arctic Circle, with a population of
between 400-500,000. Two-thirds of Greenland is north
of that imaginary boundary as well, and six other nations,
including the U.S. (Alaska), Canada, Finland, Iceland,
Sweden, and Russia, claim an Arctic land mass.
Antarctica is very different. Not only are there no
permanent settlements but virtually the entire ice-covered
continent, except for a peninsula that juts northward
towards South America, lies within the Antarctic Circle.
Antarctica belongs to no single nation but is administered
by an international consortium, with strict controls
governing both scientific and tourist travel. Most visitors
do not physically set foot on the continent, and travelers,
even those on expedition ships, seldom actually cross the
invisible Antarctic boundary.
We were fortunate, despite less than favorable weather
during our cruise aboard Sapphire Princess last January
and February, to come close. Our most southerly latitude
was 64 degrees 58 minutes south latitude, less than 100
miles north of the Antarctic Circle.
Yes, Norway has glaciers too!
Briksdalsbreen, a single arm
of a larger glacier, it is part of
Jostedalsbreen National Park.
Den Gode Nabo is a popular destination
for good food and drink, right on the
bank of the Nidelven River just off Old
Town Bridge in Trondheim, Norway.
An impressive globe
sculpture stands high
on the promontory at
Nordkapp. Astoundingly,
the North Pole still lies
more than 2,000 miles
to the north, across
the Barents Sea. The
adjacent North Cape Hall
Visitors Center tells of
early tourists who arrived
by sea and reached the
summit via a rugged path.
30 31

When the sun shines, the beauty of the
Antarctic Peninsula is breathtaking.
POLAR DAY -- NOT THE
SAME AS SUMMER
Both of my trips occurred during
the summer seasons -- or polar
day -- at the top and the bottom
of the Earth. Although the sun
sank to kiss the horizon as we
traveled north, we were still able
to read late into the evening while
sitting on our stateroom balcony.
Weather is milder in Norway due
to the Gulf Stream that hugs the
country's western coastline than
in most other Arctic countries.
Although sweaters and caps
were comfortable attire, hardy
Norwegians could be seen visiting
rocky beaches and swimming in
the still-cold waters.
Who knew there were so
many shades of blue?
The author, Adrienne
Cohen and husband
David, were happy
to have the right
clothes for venturing
onto the open decks
in Antarctica!
Temperatures in Antarctica,
however, were much lower; to be
fair, we visited Antarctica later
in the season. The days were
shorter, the sun seldom shined
bright in the sky, and it did get
dark at night. We only got a peek
at some of the prime attractions.
Deception Island was shrouded in
clouds – we missed it completely --
and Elephant Island was similarly
elusive. Even though our crossing
of the famed Drake Passage was
relatively smooth, and no snow
fell on the ship's decks (Yes, that
happened just three weeks prior
to our sailing!), socks and boots,
caps, gloves, and parkas were
necessary for spending time on
deck.
It’s difficult
to judge of
size and scale
of floating
icebergs. Up to
two-thirds of
the mass can
be below the
water line. The
ice shelf in the
background
might be several
stories high!
An Emperor
Penguin
“poses”
on a beach
near
Stanley
in the
Falkland
Islands,
with the
Sapphire
Princess
at anchor
in the
background.
ABOUT THOSE
SUPERLATIVES!
Both journeys so surpassed
my expectations that I would
be happy to return to either
the Arctic or the Antarctic. I
am convinced each would feel
like a "new world" on each
succeeding encounter. In fact,
that is exactly what Captain
Todd McBain of the Sapphire
Princess gave as his reason
for returning again and again
to Antarctica. He has sailed
aboard every Princess ship to
visit the Antarctic Peninsula
since the line first sailed that
route in 2006, and he is an
ardent Antarctic Ambassador.
In truth, these two journeys
only served to whet my
appetite for travel to the
far reaches of the planet.
I recently had another
opportunity to step across the
Arctic Circle when I traveled
on the Dalton Highway north
from Fairbanks, Alaska. It was
a road trip that brought our
small group of adventurers
only as far north as the
"Welcome to the Arctic " sign
at Latitude 66-34. But I earned
a certificate that attests to
my "survival" on this arduous
journey!
I am now intrigued by other
journeys that will again
bring me closer to the poles
-- perhaps a tour of Greenland
or Iceland, that hoped-for
journey to Svalbard, a cruise to
the "forgotten islands" of the
South Pacific, sub-Antarctic
islands south of Australia and
New Zealand, or even a daylong
tour by helicopter to view
Antarctica from the air.
Travel above the Arctic Circle
has become increasingly
available and affordable,
whether by air, sea, or
highway. The seasonal
changes also offer numerous
options for travelers who want
to experience "the land of the
midnight sun" or, alternately,
the Northern Lights. It's a
matter of picking an itinerary
and the time of year that best
suits you. Options for visiting
the Antarctic are still relatively
limited, typically possible only
from about mid-November
through mid-March. The most
favorable weather is from
December through February.
AN UNCERTAIN FUTURE
FOR A FRAGILE CONTINENT
The International Association of
Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO)
places the number of visitors at just
over 105,000 during the 2022-23
season, which raises some serious
concerns about environmental
effects. In 2000, only about 5,000
people visited. Tourists should be
forewarned that much of Antarctic
travel, especially the flight-seeing
tours and excursions that allow
tourists to visit certain research
stations, is pricey. However, the
price of cruise itineraries from
Australia and New Zealand to
Macquarie Island with its incredible
penguin rookeries, and those that
include New Zealand's Snares,
Auckland, or Campbell Islands,
can be quite attractive if you find
yourself on that side of the world.
Debate continues to swirl around
the growing public appetite for
Antarctic tourism. There is, however,
international cooperation and
a determination to protect the
environment. Regulation falls
under the scope of the International
Association of Antarctica Tour
Operators (IAATO), a voluntary
organization founded in 1991 by
seven private tour operators. It
currently sets industry standards
that protect Antarctica.
As some of the last "wilderness
areas" on the planet, the polar
regions -- Antarctica and the
Arctic countries -- offer aweinspiring
sights and breathtaking
experiences. I consider myself
extremely fortunate to have had
glimpses of that beauty at opposite
ends of the world, and I love sharing
my impressions and my photos.
The blue coloration stems
from the densely-packed ice
that is below the water line,
or sometimes from fissures
that form in the ice.
Even with clouds hovering
above and no sun to speak
of the sights in Antarctic
are mesmerizing!
A penguin chick emerges from its
burrow at about five weeks of age
but is still fed by both parents. It
might make a first trip out to sea
at the age of about eight weeks.
Travel, indeed,
is the greatest
teacher!
32
33

Holiday Wines from New Brunswick
Winegarden Estate Winery
Holiday celebrations call
for unique wines to pair
with festive cuisines. After
discovering the wines of New
Brunswick, I never imagined
I would think of fruit wine as
the perfect wine to bring out
the sparkle and glitter of the
holiday season. Being from
California, fruit wines were off
my radar. Instead, varieties
Story and Photos by Cori Solomon
like Cabernet Sauvignon,
Petit Sirah, Syrah, Merlot,
and Pinot Noir are my go-to
wines. I opt for sparkling or
late-harvest wine created from
Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, or
even a Sauterne for dessert.
I was pleasantly surprised
by the quality I found in New
Brunswick. Let’s discover the
exceptional fruity holiday wines
Magnetic Hill Winery
Holiday wine tasting in the winery at Magnetic Hill Winery
Photo Courtesy of Magnetic Hill Wineryice.
from New Brunswick that will bring in
the spirit of Hanukkah, Christmas, and
New Year’s.
One of the highlights of my recent visit
to New Brunswick was discovering
Maple Wine. Three different wineries,
Magnetic Hill Winery, Winegarden
Estate Winery, and Domaine Latitude
46 Estate Winery, offered their take on
Maple wine.
Winegarden Estate
Winery is considered
one of the oldest familyowned
wineries in New
Brunswick; the family’s
German heritage comes
into play with many of
their wines.
Winegaarden
Estate Winery
Maple wine
with Holiday
Ornaments
– Photo
Courtesy of
Winegarden
Estate Winery
Christmas is the perfect
time to share a port-styled
wine, and Winegarden
has lovely option in this
category. Vineur is a
Canadian Port created with
either raspberry, grape,
cranberry, or blueberry.
This fortified wine
resembles a Ruby Port. The
Vineur name combines the
“Vin” for vines with the
“ur” from Liquor.
The Rubina, a dry
blueberry wine, or
Winegarden’s Maple Wine,
a sweet dessert wine,
represent other options to
cheer in the season.
Winegarden Estate
Winery Vineur Canadian
Port – Photo Courtesy of
Winegarden Estate Winery
Magnetic Hill Winery is
considered the largest winery
in New Brunswick. From a
U-pick farm specializing in
strawberries and rhubarb to
the winery it is today, several
of the wines I would serve at
my holiday feast. Start with the
Mystique, a light, refreshing, dry
wine that is a perfect pairing for
turkey.
Finish off your meal with
Magnetic Hills Maple Swish,
a wine aged in a Kentucky
Bourbon barrel. The wine is
also known as the “Oaky Smoky
Whiskey Maple.” My best
description is yummy and one
of many excellent holiday wines
from New Brunswick.
Winegarden
Estate Winery
Rubina
– Photo
Courtesy of
Winegarden
Estate Winery
34
35

Domaine Latitude 46 Estate Winery
Vinerie Des Fruits
Domaine
Latitude
46 Estate
Winery
Blushing
Goose
Photo
Courtesy
of
Domaine
Latitude
46 Estate
Winery
Domaine
Latitude
46 Estate
Winery
Maple
Wine
Photo
Courtesy
of
Domaine
Latitude
46 Estate
Winery
Vinerie Des Fruits focuses on
luscious wines made from currants
and honeyberries. Honeyberry, also
known as Haskap, is a super fruit
that tastes like a combination of wild
blackberry and blueberry. Its fruit
looks like a teardrop with a blueberry
coloration.
The uniqueness of the honeyberry
made the Mistelle Honeyberry my
favorite from Vinerie Des Fruits.
Vinerie
Des Fruits
Mistelle De
Camerise
Honeyberry
Mistelle
Photo
Courtesy
Vinerie Des
Fruits
Domaine Latitude 46 Estate Winery
lies along the banks of the Petitcodiac
River in Memramcook, New
Brunswick. With the assistance of
winemaker Stefan St Pierre, Bill Fitch
creates some outstanding holiday
wines from New Brunswick.
Blushing Goose, created from red gooseberries, ideally
suits the season as a semi-sweet dessert wine. Find a sweet
yet tart demeanor with hints of melon and strawberry.
By far, my favorite is the non-vintage Maple Wine. Think
caramel meets maple, blended together and aged in a
bourbon barrel.
Richibucto River Winery
Waterside Farms
Cottage Winery
Waterside Farms Cottage
Winery is located off the Bay of
Fundy; for this winery, winter
comes early. The Dry Oak-Aged
Blueberry Wine is a favorite to
take off that winter chill.
Waterside Farms
Cottage Winery
Dry Oak Aged
Blueberry Wine
Photo Courtesy
Waterside Farms
Cottage Winery
The holiday season comes in many forms at Richibucto
River Winery.
Owner Alan Hudson lived on the property 20 years
before planting grapes. He started with a Christmas
tree farm before growing grapes. From Christmas trees
to holiday wine, there is a theme at Richibucto River
Winery during the holidays.
The Frontenac Reserve comes across as an almost
port-like wine yet not too sweet, making a lovely
dessert wine during this time of the year.
Richibucto River Winery Frontenac Reserve
Photo Courtesy of Richibucto River Winery
Holiday Wines From New Brunswick
When I think of the
holiday wines from New
Brunswick, I imagine
a winter’s night sitting
around the hearth,
celebrating with friends
and family while enjoying
any of these fruit wines.
Like the people of New
Brunswick who create
these cool climate wines,
I found them warm and
friendly on the palette. The
alternative is experiencing
a winter holiday in New
Brunswick, visiting these
wineries, and enjoying
New Brunswick wine.
36
37

New York City’s Soul Food
Can Warm the Heart
During the Holidays
Carlos, the head chef, has been working
there for two and a half years. He speaks
purely from the heart as he expresses
his love for the city, knowing that soul
food’s mission and making people feel
good is a multifaceted job. His ultimate
goal is to make everyone feel at home.
He says, “food for me is the essential
thing… [because] we satisfy the
hunger and needs of other people”. He
adds, “My best moment I’ve ever had
is when a family asked for a very large
order and we knew it was a surprise
for grandpa. All the grandchildren
came [and] “I’m happy to do it” he adds
because it is “my mission”. Bed Stuy Fish
Fry is a restaurant that warms your heart.
Luckily, in the winter there are multiple
hearts and kitchens open that are ready to
connect as a community.
Story and Photos by Nisani Walser
Sylvia’s
New York City’s Soul Food for the Soul
Soul is defined by Merriam Webster
as the “spiritual principle embodied in
human beings or the universe.” ‘Soul’
is abundant in New York City with a
population of 8 million all with unique
tastes, experiences and cultures; it
makes New York City an exciting place
to grab a meal in restaurants where
owners are telling hearty stories over
one dish at a time. As fall transitions
to winter and the days become shorter,
the weather gets colder and it is not
uncommon for one to feel lonely as
more time is spent indoors.
The perfect cure for a cold winter day
in New York City is Soul Food! Here
are 3 of NYC’s Greatest Soul Food Spots
worth your while to visit on a trip to the
‘Big Apple’!
Bed Stuy Fish Fry
Sylvia’s interior with local customers dining
Bruno Mars and the Sylvia’s crew
The beloved Sylvia Woods
The
Restaurant
Entrance for
Downtown
Brooklyn
While Bed Stuy Fish Fry has a grab and go
vibe, Sylvia’s is well known for its eat in option.
It’s located in the heart of Harlem, the black
capital of New York City.
Bed Stuy Fish Fry is one of
New York City’s soul food
staples being dubbed the
Soul Food of Brooklyn. With
multiple locations, it is a fast,
easy and convenient spot to
grab a bite that warms the soul
with extensive options that
cater to a multitude of tastes.
A Bed
Stuy Fish
Fry lunch
special box
Walking in, you see cases filled
to the brim with a variety of
meats, sides and decadent
desserts. For lunch or dinner,
you can choose between a
platter or a lunch special box,
with protein and two sides
perfect for mixing and matching
exactly what suits your soul.
At Bed Stuy Fish Fry “everything sells”, says server
Khalilah. The most popular items include the whiting
fish, mac and cheese and yams. I selected my personal
favorites of BBQ chicken with sweet yams and mac and
cheese with a small lemonade. The chicken tenderly fell
off the bone and was flavorfully sweet complimenting the
mac and cheese and yams. The mac and cheese is very
sharp and zesty. The yams are earthy and the cornbread is
toasty with a nice bite. This box reminded me of home.
Sylvia’s is on the map as a world staple for
all kinds of delicious creations from the late
Sylvia Woods, the restaurant's founder. She’s
been feeding her community ever since its
founding in the 60s and attracts guests from
all over the city and world. Upon entering you
are escorted into an intimate dining room
playing R&B such as Maxwell, Mary J. Blige
and The Temptations. The room is surrounded
by photos of the beloved Sylvia Woods'
famous guests who have dined there such as
Bruno Mars and Barack Obama. And most
importantly, they outline the journeys of her
family and friends that tell a story about her
passion for food.
Former president Barack Obama and Al Sharpton at Sylvia's
38 39

While Sylvia passed away in 2012, her
legacy lives on through her children who
work at the restaurant and also through
her recipes that continue to satisfy
customers from all walks of life.
Sylvia’s is known for a wide range of
dishes, but I decided my soul needed
chicken and waffles, (which is what many
of my neighbors were also having for
brunch). You get a very filling portion
with half of a Belgian-style waffle and
two pieces of chicken topped with a
generous scoop of butter and a filled
canister to top with as much syrup
as your heart desires. The waffles are
light and fluffy with crispy edges that
compliment the chicken that’s very
tender. I ordered their sweet tea to drink
which was lightly sweet with the perfect
punch of zest afterwards.
Looking at the seats next to me it seemed
that Sylvia’s had positively impacted
my fellow diners who had smiles on
their faces. I saw a family of three
generations: a father, his daughter,
Serena and his granddaughter who was
eager to eat with her family. I spoke
with the family and discovered that they
were visiting from Upstate and decided
to have lunch before returning back
home. “We like the ambiance and the
food. I like the fact that it’s black owned
and the happiness the area attracts”, the
grandfather said. “Soul to me means
family time, getting together and is the
essence of our blackness. Makes me
think of the holidays.” Serena said.
Speaking to another visitor named Alan
I had gotten similar responses. He said,
“I love the food, laid back atmosphere
and the home-y vibes. They do a lot
for the community. It’s always nice
to support a restaurant that’s heavily
involved in where they are."
An entree of chicken and waffles
The
sweet tea
has the
perfect
punch
An entree of catfish, mac and cheese and collard greens
Ma' N Pop restaurant front
Ma N’ Pop
The vibe of Sylvia’s is very similar to Ma N’
Pop, another soul food place in the heart
of Bed Stuy that was founded by family.
The restaurant is a quaint room adorned
with vinyl, instruments and photos on
the walls, and carries good energy. I had
their signature catfish with collard greens,
mac and cheese, and corn bread with half
and half tea on the side. The catfish was
perfectly crisp with just the right amount of
succulence and perfect with a dash of hot
sauce and tartar sauce. The mac and cheese
was very tender with a sharp cheesiness and
the collard greens were seasoned with a nice
bite to them. Finally, the half and half is a
perfect blend of tangy and sweet to
wash everything down.
The hostess, Tajee, has been
working there for 4 years and enjoys
helping out because it speaks to
the family legacy. To her soul food
means “history because [there’s]
a background story to every dish
on the menu”. Ms. Rose, a local
customer who has been coming to
the restaurant for ten years, said,
“They’re always very open and they
welcome you. They talk to you all the
time. It’s like coming home.”
As winter approaches, and people stay
indoors, it's uplifting to remember
that there are millions of stories to be
found in restaurants all around New
York City. The beautiful thing about
‘Soul Food’ is that while it holds firm
roots in the South, it’s a proud product
of all perspectives, is influenced by and
inspires people from all over the world.
Food will always connect people so
the next time you visit New York City,
venture out to one of these restaurants.
There is something for and a seat for
everybody at the communal table.
Famous cornbread
Ma' N Pop restaurant table
Ma' N Pop restaurant interior
Ma' N Pop restaurant interior
40 41

Boutique
Ski Resorts
Offer Visitors
Buckets of
Benefits
S
ki resorts are a great choice for
an upcoming winter vacation,
though travelers have many
options to consider when
choosing a ski resort. A primary
distinction within the range of ski resorts
is between the larger, corporate-owned
resorts that are on a nationwide ski pass -
and the smaller boutique resorts, many of
them independent.
If you are a new skier, or looking to
travel with children who are new to
skiing, boutique resorts can offer several
advantages to the traveler willing to seek
them out. Advantages include demandbased
lift ticket pricing, affordable
equipment rentals, family-friendly ski
programs, and the ability to experience
ski terrain as many locals do.
Monte Holyfield and his
daughter, Mandy, pose for
a portrait while skiing at
Tamarack Resort.
We will explore these advantages within
three options for ski resorts in three
states: Purgatory Resort, thirty minutes
outside Durango, Colorado; Tamarack
Resort, two hours from Boise, Idaho;
and Brian Head Resort, in southwestern
Utah. Each option offers visitors a unique
experience that is friendly to skiers of all
levels and is often very affordable for a
winter getaway.
Boutique ski resorts tend to be in
locations that are in distinct, off-thebeaten-path
areas, and visitors seeking
out these experiences are greatly
rewarded. They offer more room to ski
on the hill, less traffic, and an easier time
experiencing the sport as a local does.
The view from the lifts
at Tamarack resort
include chalet style
accommodations.
42
Story and Photos by Kathryn Wagner
Are you looking for an active winter holiday?
Want to try a new-to-you sport?
Skiing in a winter wonderland should be on your list this winter.
Picture snow covered trees, blue skies, and the feeling of gliding on snow.
Taking that connecting flight, or renting
a car to drive the extra miles to the resort
is well worth it. Amber Palmer, marketing
manager at Brian Head Resort says, "As
a smaller and more independent resort,
we place value on originality, uniqueness,
and a local feel. Guests enjoy lower skier
density, and more affordable ticket prices,
ski rentals, and lessons. The lower costs
take the pressure off feeling like you
have to maximize that investment in the
sport, which leads to a more laid-back
experience overall."
43

Guests staying in
Tamarack Resort can
rent ski-in ski-out
accommodation.
Two ski-patrollers take
in the view over Lake
Cascade at Tamarack
Resort in Tamarack Idaho.
Skiers and
snowboarders assess
snow conditions at the
top of the mountain in
Tamarack Resort near
Boise, Idaho.
D
ave Rathbun, General
Manager at Purgatory
Resort near Durango
notes that they have
"made significant capital
investments in recent
years to improve the overall resort
experience, including expanded
snowmaking firepower, more parking
spaces, and infrastructure upgrades to
lifts, restaurants, and guest services.
Many new accommodations have also
been added to the resort, and many
existing lodging units have been
renovated and upgraded.”
Personally, my favorite part about this
type of resort experience is the fact
that you are able to ski the majority
of the trails that are at your current
level within a day or two. High-quality
terrain is on offer, and you are also able
to have time to ski your new favorite
trails as many times as you want. With a
more approachable resort, it is easy to
quickly become familiar with the terrain
and even start to link a few of your
favorite runs together. This gives the
opportunity to progress on a particular
ski run and try new lines within that
terrain.
Scott Turlington, President of Tamarack
Ski Resort in Idaho says, “Because we’re
family-owned, we can be nimbler and
more innovative in how we run all
aspects of the resort and how quickly
we respond to our guests and their
desires for unique and personalized
experiences no matter what the
season.” In my experience skiing at
Tamarack Ski Resort, the efficient work
of the lift operators meant a lack of
lines at the ski lifts during a busy day
in prime ski season. I was also able to
ski many different runs and confidently
push my ability level on terrain that
quickly became familiar to me. The
resort amenities were never more than
a few minutes away, and the apres ski
options were top-notch.
T
hese aspects are present within each
of the resorts, including Colorado's
Purgatory resort: "Skiers and riders
also love our iconic location in the
San Juan Mountains, which means
fewer crowds and shorter lift lines
for a more authentic and enjoyable Colorado
on-snow experience," says Rathbun. These
properties are very family-friendly and also
great to visit if you are traveling with a group
of friends who have kids. The programs for
beginners are affordable and easy to access. At
Purgatory, "Our guests appreciate free skiing
for all children ages 12 and under, as well as the
variety of lodging and amenities available at
the resort and in nearby downtown Durango,"
says Rathbun.
Guests who are brand new to the sport of
skiing, no matter their age, can seek out new
skills with a progression program at Brian
Head. "This season we’re opening a new free
on-snow experience for first-time skiers and
snowboarders,” says Palmer. “The experience
is a series of step-by-step clinics to prepare
guests for their first time on the snow. As
guests move through learning stations, ski
instructors provide personalized tips along the
way. Guests can stay in each station as long as
they need to feel comfortable before moving
on to the next station. This takes the pressure
out of the learning curve and helps build
confidence. From tips on loading and unloading
the chairlift to teaching safety and the skier
responsibility code, we’re setting them up for
success and making the mountain a safer place
for everyone."
Single-day tickets at these resorts are also very
accessible, with price points that are affordable
to a family looking to try skiing. "This season
we're expanding our demand-based ticket
pricing strategy to make skiing more accessible
and enjoyable, resulting in some of the most
affordable lift tickets in the U.S. starting at
$9 on select days. Of course, we're bringing
back popular favorites like Power Kids for free
unlimited skiing and riding for all kids 12 and
younger, plus exclusive discounts for season
pass holders and guests," says Rathbun of
Purgatory Resort.
A free skier does a 360
degree turn over a jump at
Tamarack Resort in Idaho.
The view over Mica Ridge at
the top of Tamarack Resort
near Tamarack Idaho.
Seeking out an independent ski resort will
definitely provide you with the benefit of
staying and skiing at a resort that is more
approachable in terms of terrain, and geared
towards those seeking a unique winter
vacation experience. A smaller ski resort can
also be a great place to expand your skill set as
a skier and can be an affordable way to get a
taste of what skiing has to offer.
44
45

A visit to the Glacier Lagoon in Iceland
The MS Seaventure expedition ship
Unique Small Ship Adventures
with Iceland ProCruises
Story and Photos by Rose Palmer
Siglufjordur harbor in the early morning
A
s a small island country in close proximity
to both Europe and North America,
Iceland has become a cruising destination
hot spot. In fact, in recent years, many of
the large cruise lines have included Iceland stops
to their Northern European and trans-Atlantic
itineraries. However, from my experience, I found
that the most authentic way to discover Iceland
was on a small ship led by local guides.
This summer I was privileged to cruise on the
expeditions ship MS Seaventure with Iceland
ProCruises, a company that is Icelandic owned
and operated. The MS Seaventure was designed
for polar explorations and can easily handle the
rough ice environment in Antarctica. But, when it
is not Antarctica sailing season, Iceland ProCruises
charters the ship for “warmer” weather exploration
around Iceland and Greenland.
My balcony cabin on the
MS Seaventure
46
The MS Seaventure has only 82 cabins, all of which
come with a view through a large porthole, a
picture window, or a balcony. At 194 square feet,
I found my cabin to be very roomy and inviting. It
was set up for two twin beds which could just as
easily have been converted into a queen-sized bed.
The closet and the cabinets had more than enough
storage, more than I have ever had on larger ships.
View from my
balcony on the
first morning of
the cruise
47

I
was also quite surprised at the large
and bright public spaces on board the
Seaventure. The main gathering spot was
the Seabreeze Lounge where we enjoyed
afternoon tea, cocktails, and evening
entertainment. The nearby library was a more
intimate space that offered a good selection of
books and games.
My cruise was a 9 day complete
circumnavigation tour around all of Iceland
that started and ended in Reykjavik. Each
morning we dropped anchor in a new locale
where we had the opportunity to explore
via a diverse selection of excursions. Since the cost of
the excursions was not included in the base fare, I could
decide to do as many or as few as I wanted.
The Seabreeze lounge
The elegant dining room on the MS Seaventure
Tasting fermented shark and Brennivin alcohol
With its theater style seating, the Expedition
Lounge on the uppermost deck was where
we gathered for informative lectures and
presentations. This was also a great spot to
see the scenery unfold through the expansive
forward facing picture windows. When the
weather was nice, I could also lounge on a deck
chair on the sun deck and swim in the small,
heated pool, or look at sunset views from the aft
Seabreeze deck space.
The spacious dining room was also much more
elegant than I expected on an expedition ship.
For these cruises, Iceland ProCruises brought
in a dedicated Icelandic chef, so we always had
some local flavors at each meal. Breakfast and
lunch were a buffet with a wide array of hot
and cold dishes for all tastes. Dinner was a four
course a la carte menu that always included
one freshly caught local fish entre along with
other choices for guests that didn’t want
seafood. I was very impressed that the menu
was designed to satisfy all dietary needs and
allergies.
What I really liked about the Iceland ProCruises
excursions was that they had options for a variety of
interests and activity levels. There were bus tours to
historic and scenic sights and there were also more active
tours like hiking, kayaking, and horseback riding for the
more adventurous souls.
I felt that each tour included a signature element that
was unique to Iceland ProCruises and that helped me
connect to the Icelandic culture in a way that would
not have been possible on my own. In the Westfjords,
we stopped to have traditional fish soup at a villager’s
home in the small hamlet of Pingeyri. In Siglufjordur,
modern day “Herring Girls” showed us what life was like
for women during the herring rush years when fishing
accounted for 40% of Iceland’s total exports. And in
the town of Seydisfjordur my tour included a stop at a
thermal bath where I soaked in the hot waters with the
locals.
My favorite stops though were Gurnsey Island and
Flatey Island. Gurnsey Island sits on the Arctic Circle
and has a large photogenic marker that proved I was at
66.5 degrees north latitude. Flatey Island was my most
memorable stop though. This small private island is
used just for summer holiday homes and only Iceland
ProCruises was allowed to bring tours here. The big
attraction on this little island was the many puffins that
we could observe up close. I happily spent a couple of
hours taking puffin photos to my heart’s content.
But what made my Iceland ProCruises trip really special
were the multi-talented Icelandic guides. The expedition
team shared first hand stories about their culture, their
traditions, and their folklore. Besides getting destination
information, we also had cultural experiences like trying
fermented shark, tasting Icelandic beers, and listening to
Icelandic folk songs.
Herring cleaning demonstration
by modern day
Herring Girls
Puffins on Flatey Island with the MS
Seaventure in the harbor
Puffins on Flatey Island
Swimming in the
Vok thermal baths
48
Excellent salmon dinner with a view on
the Seaventure
Arctic Circle marker on Grimsey Island
For me, this cruise with Iceland ProCruises was an ideal
way to experience all the best that the land of fire and ice
has to offer in complete comfort with experts that really
know Iceland.
Whale watching tour in Husavik
49

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