TravelWorld International Magazine Winter 2022

PARIS - "The City of Lights"
WINTER 2022
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE
Happy
Holidays
The Magazine Written and Photographed by North American Travel Journalists Association Members

Letter from the Editor
TravelWorld International Magazine
is the only magazine that showcases
the member talents of the
North American
Travel Journalists Association
WINTER
2022
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL
MAGAZINE
We at NATJA are sincerely wishing you all
Happy Holidays!
The holidays this year ARE happier than those we've
experienced the past few seasons. We can finally
travel and gather together without apprehension and
fear. Our NATJA writers are telling many of their
happy stories here.
This issue displays international destinations with
stories about Paris, Germany, and Iceland. Plus there
are great holiday and winter adventures from skiing
in Idaho to ice skating in San Diego, and enjoyable
festivals of lights. Additionally, four spectacular
Dude Ranches have shared their favorite recipes!
Enjoy!!
Happy Holidays!
Joy Bushmeyer,
Editor
Group Publisher:
Publishers:
VP Operations:
Editor:
NATJA Publications
Helen Hernandez &
Bennett W. Root, Jr.
Yanira Leon
Joy Bushmeyer
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS:
Julie Bielenberg
Joy Bushmeyer
Karen LeBlanc
Sandra Foyt
Tim Leffel
Jeffrey Lehmann
Lisa Morales
Bennett Root
DMO CONTRIBUTORS:
Explore Fairbanks
Visit Indiana
EnRoute Communications
Editorial /Advertising Offices:
TravelWorld International Magazine
3579 E. Foothill Blvd., #744
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Phone: (626) 376-9754 Fax: (626) 628-1854
www.travelworldmagazine.com
6
Happy Holidays
Christmas Crafts from Germany Karen LeBlanc 6
Epic Skiing without the Crowds in Idaho Tim Leffel 12
Christmas in "The City of Lights" Bennett Root 20
Christmas at Hotel Del Coronado Jeffrey Lehmann 28
20
12
28
Cover Photo
The cover photo is of Paris, "The City of Lights"
in the full holiday splendor for shoppers,
pedestrians and all!
Photo provided by Bennett Root
Volume 2022.04 Winter 2022. Copyright ©2022
by NATJA Publications, Inc. All rights reserved.
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World International Magazine or NATJA
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of NATJA Publications, Inc. PRODUCED IN U.S.A.
2 3

WINTER
2021
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL
MAGAZINE
Happy Holidays
Festival of Lights at The Mission Inn Lisa Morales 34
Julefest! Christmas in Solvang Joy Bushmeyer 38
Winter is Coming - In Iceland Sandra Foyt 44
Dude Ranch Recipe Round Up Julie Bielenberg 56
(See actual Dude Ranch recipes)!
34
38
44 56
Be inspired by the light of the Aurora Borealis. Renew your energy under
the Midnight Sun. Experience the warmth of Fairbanks–Alaska’s Golden Heart–
and the basecamp to Denali, Interior and Arctic Alaska.
4
Call 1-800-327-5774 for your free Fairbanks Visitors Guide.
Explore your Alaskan vacation at explorefairbanks.com.
5

Karen admiring more than 5,000
different styles of glass Christmas
ornaments on display in the
Krebs Glas Lauscha showroom.
Karen LeBlanc in the Krebs Glas Lauscha showroom, open to the public.
Christmas Crafts
From the Village of LAUSCHA, GERMANY
In the Ancient THURINGIAN FOREST
The Age-Old Art of Handmade, Glass-Blown
and Papier-Mâché Christmas Ornaments Continues
Story and Photos by Karen LeBlanc
ne of my favorite
Christmas
memories as a
child was unspooling
the tissue paper-wrapped
silvered Christmas ornaments
compartmentalized in cardboard
boxes. The entire sensory
experience still stirs my soul,
starting with the anticipation of
waiting at the foot of the attic
ladder as my father handed down
each ornament box. Invigorated
by the scent of fresh pine, I sat
at the Christmas tree, looping
metal hooks on the silvered glass
ornaments, admiring how the
twinkling tree lights danced on
their colored, mirrored surfaces.
6
In November 2021, I traveled to the
source of my childhood fascination
with glass-blown ornaments, to the
cradle of the Christmas tree ball, the
village of Lauscha in the Thuringian
forest of Eastern Germany. This
small village is home to generations
of artisans crafting handmade,
glass-blown Christmas ornaments
and recognized by UNESCO as
“Intangible Cultural Heritage.”
For more than 150 years, the people
of Lauscha have practiced this craft,
passing on the skills and knowledge
to successive generations. Glass
making thrived in this region because
the Thuringian Forest offered ample
glassmaking materials, including
wood to fuel the furnaces, quartz
sand, and limestone. Lauscha glass
dates back to the 16th century when
Christoph Muller and Hans Greiner
built the first glass factory in Lauscha,
producing drinkware, tableware, and
glass beads. Early Lauscha glass has a
greenish tint resulting from the high
iron content in the forest sand and an
infusion of bubbles.
Today, people worldwide collect
and treasure Christmas decorations
from the Thuringian Forest, a region
known as “Christmas Country." The
moniker originated as a tourism
initiative to preserve, promote and
cultivate the region’s traditional
crafts.
Glassblower producing
the mold-blown glass
ornaments of the Lauscha
Exclusive Assortment from
Krebs Glas Lauscha.
7

Veit Hartleb, a
self-employed
glassblower, making
Christmas tree
decorations in his
Lauscha workshop
s a Design Tourist, I learn about a culture
through its legacy of art and craft and how
people express their souls by creating
things of beauty. I wanted to experience
the passion and skill of Thuringia’s
Christmas artisans, so I sought out
local guides Roger Müller, owner of Krebs
Glas Lauscha, and Lauscha Ambassador
Rita Worm, to tour several glassblowing
workshops. Müller says today, glass forms
the basis of income for at least every second
family in the community of around 4,000
inhabitants.
They introduced me to a fourth-generation
glassblower who says it took him 20 years
to perfect the craft he learned from his
grandfather. He works by feeling the
glass interact with the flame’s fluctuating
temperature, turning and coaxing the glass
tube over an open flame while blowing into
the tube to shape it. Once the ornament
cools and hardens, his wife hand-paints each
glass-blown ornament in her “next door”
workshop.
Glassblowing is delicate, an intuitive craft
that demands perfect timing. It’s a dance
between the glassblower, the flame, and the
molten glass, as the artisan sculpts glass
tubes into various shapes and designs.
Mastering the skill takes years of training
and practice demanding precision with little
margin of error.
ext, I visit the glassblowing workshop of
Krebs Glas Lauscha to learn how artisans
create silvered glass ornaments using a
technique developed in the 1860s. To mirror
a glass ornament from the inside, the artisan
dips it in a silver nitrate solution, then coats
each ornament in lacquer to prime it for hand-painting
motifs and designs. The Krebs Glas factory outlet, a few
blocks away, is open to the public and offers more than
5,000 glass-blown ornament designs, many originating
from the local workshop.
Lauscha glass Christmas ornaments became popular
collectibles in the United States after Mr. F.W. Woolworth
discovered the mouth-blown, hand-painted glass
ornaments on a visit to Lauscha. In the late 1880s, he
began importing the ornaments for sale in his chain of
stores across the United States.
In 1923, Lauscha established the first arts and crafts
technical school for glass teaching techniques that let
the beauty of the material speak for itself. The Christmas
craft industry thrived in the Thuringian Forest until
World War Two broke out. With the division of Germany
after the war, Thuringia became part of the East German
Communist rule, which nationalized many of the region’s
craft and glassmaking workshops. With the reunification
of Germany in the 1990s, families sought to regain
ownership of their factories and workshops, reestablishing
Lauscha’s glassblowing industry.
To learn more about the history of glassmaking, I suggest
visiting The Museum for Glass Art in Lauscha, which
holds an important collection of locally made glass
products and a historical overview of the craft.
Krebs Glass Lauscha glassblower demonstrates how to
silver a glass ornament from the inside
Artisans at Krebs
Glass Lauscha factory
handpainting mouthblown
glass ornaments
8
Krebs Glass Lauscha Glassblower
making Santa ornaments from glass
tubes mouthblown into molds
Wife of Veit Hartleb, who handpaints each
of his mouth-blown ornaments in their
Lauscha glass workshop
Wife of Veit Hartleb, who handpaints each
of his mouth-blown ornaments in their
Lauscha glass workshop
9

Hotel Schieferhof
The lobby of
Boutique Hotel
Schieferhof,
Neuhaus am
Rennweg /
Rennsteig
Paper-mâché artisans
handpainting figurines at
the Marolin Factory
Hotel Schieferhof
hile
exploring
“Christmas
Country,” I
stayed at the
Boutique Hotel
Schieferhof, with
an eclectic story to tell through its
decor and history. The hotel gets
its name from the stone Schieffer,
indigenous to the region. Husband
and wife team Lutz and Rita Horn
own the hotel in the heart of the
Thuringian Forest. They purchased
the stone and half-timbered slate
house in 1994 and turned it into
a boutique hotel that intimately
connected guests. Every room tells
a story through local art and craft
objects and decor tied to a theme.
Next, I visit the village of Steinach to
tour the Marolin Factory, makers of
handmade papier-mâché Christmas
decorations and figurines. Artisan
Richard Mahr founded Marolin in
1900, naming the company after his
secret recipe of papier-mâché that
creates highly detailed and collectible
figurines. The Marolin factory exists
inside the Mahr’s original residence,
which evolved over the past century to
include a museum and store.
The family lost Marolin in 1972 when
the Communist government assumed
factory ownership and shut down papiermâché
figurine production. Today,
Mahr’s descendants run the company
after taking it back in the 1990s during
the reunification of Germany and reprivatization
of businesses.
met with Richard’s greatgreat
grandson, Christian
Forkel, who now runs the
company. Together, we toured
the factory, which employs
local artisans practicing the
time-honored techniques of
handcrafting papier-mâché figurines
using Mahr’s original recipe.
Craftspeople hand-pour the papiermâché
mixture that has a porcelain
finish into molds. Once the figurine
cures, artisans, by hand, smooth its
surface, glue it together, then paint and
glaze it. Each figurine takes a week to
handcraft from the mold pour to the
finished product in an intricate and
laborious process. On the day I visited,
several craftspeople were restoring
100-year-old nativity figurines from
a church in Erfurt using the original
molds. Today, Marolin makes more
than 2000 figurine designs today,
including its iconic nativity scenes and
popular Easter Rabbits with removable
heads to store treats.
Throughout my travels, I
experienced a newfound
appreciation and admiration
for the passion and preservation
of handcrafts in Thuringia that
spark joy worldwide each holiday
season. I return home, committed
to making mindful decisions
about the products I purchase,
prioritizing products made with
heart, hand, and meaning rather
than mass-produced.
Marolin restores its older figurines,
produced more than 100 years ago, such as
this nativity scene from a church in Erfurt
10
Marolin paper-mâché nativity figures are handcrafted
in the old style using their secret recipe
Craftsman make paper-mâché Easter Bunnies at
Marolin Factory, Steinach, Thüringia, Germany
To learn more about Lauscha, visit https://www.lauscha-glaskunst.com.
11

Empty groomed slopes at Lookout Pass,
Idaho Panhandle
Epic Skiing
Without
the Crowds
in Idaho
Story and Photos
by Tim Leffel
We went straight onto the lift after popping on
our skis and admired the 100-mile views on the
way up. We swooshed down the mountain for
more than a mile, making fresh tracks, then skied
straight up to the lift chair to do it all over again.
By lunchtime we had covered all 21 trails that were
open, so when we went back out again, the only
question was, “Which runs should we try again?”
12
13

Making fresh
tracks at
Lookout Pass,
Idaho Panhandle
Photo
compliments of
Lookout Pass,
Matt Sawyer
Cruising trail
with a view at
Bogus Basin, just
outside of Boise
14
his was a typical day of skiing
in Idaho, not some one-off
lucky experience. We were at
Pomerelle Mountain Resort,
on a mountain reaching 8,762
feet in elevation with 31 trails served
by two long triple ski lifts. It averages
more than 500 inches of snow a year. The
experience was similar at all of the others
I visited too: ride up, ski down, and then
zoom straight onto the lift again. The only
aspect limiting how many runs we could
do was the stamina of our legs since the
only breaks were on the chairlifts.
Skiing in Idaho doesn’t hit the wallet very
hard either. Walk-up all-day lift tickets at
Pomerelle are $60 this season. At Magic
Mountain they top out at $39; at Little Ski
Hill they’re $20. Only three resorts in the
state cost more than $100 for a single day
and of course those prices come down with
multi-day purchases.
Skiing fresh powder at Lookout
Pass, Idaho Panhandle
Photo compliments of Lookout
Pass, Matt Sawyer
Slopes with
a view at
Tamarack
Resort,
central Idaho
Top of the chairlift at Brundage
Mountain Resort, central Idaho
near McCall
Heading up
the chairlift
at Magic
Mountain,
southern
Idaho.
t’s been a generation since most Utah
or Colorado prices were anywhere
close to this level. This season the
prices are topping $250 at Vail, Beaver
Creek, and Steamboat Springs and
could hit $300 on holidays since the
pricing is dynamic at those corporate entities.
A family of four can easily go skiing in much of
Idaho for less than one adult would spend in
Colorado, with much cheaper rentals, food, and
drink in the lodges as well.
When you go skiing with a family in any corner of
Idaho, it feels like a step back in time all around,
including in the lodges. Lunch for everyone in
Park City, Utah might add up to an average car
payment. In many lodges in this state, a craft
beer and a burger with fries will usually come
in under $20, with change to spare. The resort
owners seem to really care about getting the kids
involved too, with attractive prices to introduce
the sport. At Brundage Mountain, near the lake
town of McCall, the Easy Rider ski conveyor
serving the bunny slope is free.
16

Getting ready for a mile-long cruising run
at Tamarack Resort, central Idaho
Mountaintop at Lookout
Pass, where walk-up lift
tickets are $55 to $73.
16
his doesn’t mean
the skiing isn’t serious,
however, for those who
want to whip down
black diamond slopes
and cruise down blue trails so
long that the legs are aching by
the end. Some of the Idaho ski
resorts also have backcountry ski
areas accessed by a snowcat for
making fresh tracks in the snow.
While I consider myself an expert
and I worked a few seasons as an
instructor, there were a few trails
here and there that I skipped
because they looked too daunting
for a man of my current age,
one who doesn’t feel invincible
anymore.
I did jump at the chance to take a
snowcat up to a peak that didn’t
have a lift installed yet when I
was at Lookout Pass in northern
Idaho near Wallace. I was
already loving the great skiing
a $53 ticket gets an adult visitor
there, but taking the snowcat to
the top of a nearby peak for four
or five runs was only $100 for
the whole group of us (up to 14
people).
There are plenty of challenges on
the regular trails, however, for
any experienced skier looking for
a challenge. Brundage Mountain
has 68 trails on 1,920 acres (46%
of them rated “difficult"), with
lots of glades to ski in between.
Bogus Basin, just outside of
Boise, has 82 trails and even
more skiable acres. On my last
trip I got to ski at Schweitzer in
the north of the state, a huge
resort with 92 trails plus open
bowl skiing. We definitely didn’t get
to all of the trails in our two days
there, despite never encountering
a lift line the whole time thanks to
lots of high-speed lifts with plenty of
capacity.
As someone who grew up skiing in the
icy, crowded slopes of the northeast
USA, the conditions in Idaho seem to
be almost too good to be true. Most
days are either sunny or dumping
fresh powder, with views of mountain
ranges in every direction. I’ve now
skied at 10 Idaho resorts, almost
always on groomed slopes or powder.
The experience was exhilarating at
throwback Magic Mountain, an hour
from Twin Falls on Forest Service land,
but also at much fancier Tamarack, an
expansive resort with a full-service
hotel and rental homes.
The author and travel mates snowcat skiing at Lookout Pass.
Photo compliments of Lookout Pass, Matt Sawyer
17

he lack of
development is part
of what keeps prices
reasonable to ski
in Idaho from top
to bottom. While
skiing has become a
sport for millionaires in parts of
the Rocky Mountain range, only
a few resorts like Sun Valley and
Tamarack have the infrastructure
to attract those types here. You
do need your own vehicle to get
to most of these ski mountains
in Idaho. In some cases, the only
lodging options around are a
15-to-30-minute drive away. There
are some exceptions: there’s a bus
shuttle from Boise to the Bogus
Basin cooperative, Silver Mountain
has a hotel by the gondola, and
there are several on-site hotels at
Schweitzer.
This isolation is good for crowd
control and prices though: most
visitors are locals of normal
means hitting the slopes to
indulge their passion for the sport.
They’re not hedge fund managers
and Hollywood moguls looking for
bragging rights.
Only a few ski mountains in
this state even need to think
about controlling big crowds.
Bogus Basin can get crowded on
weekends since it’s close to the
state’s biggest city and a few
up north are close enough to
Spokane, WA to attract holiday
crowds from there. When we took
the gondola up the mountain from
Morning Star Lodge in Kellogg
to Silver Mountain Resort, we
learned that there’s a set limit
on how many skiers are allowed
to travel up that lift in a day. Once
the limit is hit, nobody else is getting
on, ensuring that everyone has an
uncrowded day on the slopes.
Silver Mountain, located 30
minutes east of Coeur d'Alene, is
characteristically looking out for the
family budget too. Lodging packages
include access to Idaho’s largest
indoor water park—and adults can
order a reasonably priced drink while
they’re soaking in the hot tubs.
All of these resorts have informative
websites with current snow conditions
and transparent pricing. Compare
them all at THIS PAGE on the Ski Idaho
website and find links to individual
sites from the SKI AREAS page. Most
mountains can be reached from
airports in Boise, Twin Falls,
or Spokane.
Make Winter Memories
Enjoy winter classics like ice skating, skiing, and sledding or other
adventurous activities like the Midwest's only refrigerator toboggan that
can fly up to 40 miles per hour! Take in the snow-covered trees and trails
while hiking, horseback riding, or snowmobiling at one of our state parks.
TAKE A SNOW DAY at
visitindiana.com
18
Mountaintop Wild Things
snow sculpture at
Brundage Resort
Pokagon State Park Toboggan Run
19

Christmas in the City of Lights
PARIS
Story and Photos by
Bennett Root
aris is a most magical place. There are always
new sights. There are always stories. On this
trip, we were with friends with small children,
and we had only a few hours left in which to
capture and consume some of that magic. Time
to get moving. On the early December afternoon we
had together, it was unusually chilly and seasonably
grey, so we bundled up against the cold and set off
to search for something new and magical.
Christmas
lights
put Paris
pedestrians
into the mood
of the season
20
Marionettes animate Christmas fun at Galleries Lafayette
Fun, snowy Christmas scene captures a family's imagination
21

Christmas lights surround visitors, marking the Christmas season
he appellation “City
of Lights” has several
explanations, some likely
more fitting than others. Among
the most obvious, sometime
in the mid- to late-eighteen
hundreds, Paris was the first
European city to deploy gas streetlights
throughout the city. As one who enjoys
walking in the city, one simple thought
grabbed my imagination—what would
Paris be like in the dark, without lights?
Hooray for les lampes à gaz! But on a
deeper level, Paris was the center of the
Enlightenment in the Age of Reason.
It was the source of new political,
philosophical, and scientific thought. It
lead a revolution in artistic expression.
Much of the culture we now take as a
given was conceived and refined here.
Both explanations are true. And there
is something magical for me in both
explanations. Paris sparkles either way.
But I like the second explanation a bit
more.
mong the special experiences of
light hidden within Paris are the
evocative, muted stained glass
windows and stunningly detailed
flourishes on the columns and
capitals inside Saint-Chapelle,
the royal chapel of King Louis
IX. Located on the north point of Île de la
Cité, the birthplace and center of Paris, this
thirteenth century chapel is among the most
beautiful expressions of gothic architecture and
stained-glass artistry anywhere in the world. Its
darkened interior glows with saturated hues:
reds, blues, yellows, and greens. Its impossibly
high vaulting creates majestic, backlit visuals
that are unique, and rival any at Notre Dame,
Chartres, Westminster, or Saint Peter’s Basilica.
Perhaps the magic is because the space is so
small. The light in Sainte-Chapelle is distinctly
limited, focusing attention. The collaboration
of its colors, its carvings, and its ceilings
creates an ethereal feeling. A special Paris lives
here, its lights and vistas lingering vaguely in
memory like the finest quality perfume.
Ceiling detail, Sainte-Chapelle vault
mong the special experiences of light
22
Within the towering vaults are spectacular side
windows flanking a beautiful rose
Remarkable detail characterizes this
private royal chapel
Extraordinary detail on the columns
and capitals of Sainte-Chapelle
23

he kids in our party are less
awed by the silent beauty
of Sainte-Chapelle than are
the adults. The kids want action.
They ask about Le Fantôme de
l'Opéra. I tell them he lives at, or
actually in, the cistern under the
Opera at the Palais Garnier, a few blocks
northwest of the city center. And yes, the
main chandelier, or more precisely parts of
it, did fall and panic the opera’s audience,
killing one patron and injuring several
more. That is all certain little inquiring
minds needed to hear to make a visit
mandatory.
Garnier exquisite and balanced detail set the
standard in the Second Empire
The auditorium floor seats with
tiered boxes for VIP guests
The Palais Garnier was designed and built
for the old Paris Opera. In 1860, Jean-Louis
Charles Garnier, a relatively inexperienced
architect, shocked the Parisian design
community when he won the design
competition for the new Paris Opera at
the tender age of 35. His intensely baroque
design was completed and opened in 1875,
revealing sweeping interiors and beautifully
balanced, punctuated design elements.
The building became the showpiece of the
Second Empire. Perhaps more important
than the music performed there, it was
the place for the rich and powerful to see
and be seen at the close of the Nineteenth
Century. Then, as now, the special sparkle
of Paris glitters here in magnificent display.
And as is the custom, for the performance
to begin this evening, Box 5 will be vacant,
it being reserved specially for Le Fantôme.
The ostentatious salon where Paris high
society gathered for drinks and dinner
Looking into the blue dome is like looking into a
sky full of stars, and perhaps a sleigh
Sweeping expanses of marble take patrons from the
grand entrance to the boxes and the main stage
Le Fantome enjoyed the opera
each night from this box.
A private dining room reserved
for high roller patrons
A beautiful fantasy, a flying Christmas tree amid
galleries of Christmas cheer.
24 25

The Eiffel Tower's powerful beacon
rotates through Paris' neighborhoods
marking the season
utside the
Opera
building,
the street
explodes with
shards of light.
A Christmas feeling
captures and envelops all
passersby. The windows of
Printemps and Galleries
Lafayette illuminate the
Boulevard Hausmann. The
kids push to the front to
see the windows with their
story designs and opulent
decorations. All manner
of kid’s characters animate
displays featuring famous
brands, like Ferragamo and
Baccarat, or other more
contemporary treasures.
Kids gape and point and
beg to go inside. Entering
the Galleries Lafayette, we
immediately look straight
up at the famous domed
roof with its dripping
steamers of silver light.
Hovering above the
shimmering merchandise
displays is an ascending
Christmas tree that actually
might be a rocket ship.
The glittering array of
Christmas gifts fades from
consciousness. Reality is
suspended, except I know
I could fall down while
looking up. Nevertheless,
I am lost in a reverie born
of FAO Schwartz, a former
resident of New York’s 5th
Avenue, and a Christmas
venue of unequalled joy.
The lights quivering in
the dome transform the
space into spirit. There is
a different, but very real
magic existent right here in
the middle of Paris.
nd finally, because no
trip to Paris would
be complete without
it, we take the
escalator to the
top—just seven
floors because of Paris’ height
restrictions—and look across
the rooftops. It is from here
that the full display of the
City of Lights is radiant. To
the south, the Eiffel Tower,
a flame of 20,000 yelloworange
lights, with a rotating
beacon covering the city,
is visible for miles. To the
north, atop Montmartre,
Sacré Coeur’s domes glimmer
as a chilly, blue apparition
on this December night. To
the east, the scaffolding that
marks the reconstruction of
the roof and spire lost to fire
shortly before Covid, heralds
the rebirth of Notre Dame.
We wait impatiently until
the top of the hour when the
Eiffel Tower crews turn on
the sparkling points of light
embedded in the Tower’s
structural elements. The
twinkling, dancing lights take
our breath and suspend time.
It is quite a majestic scene in
itself, and a most appropriate
cap to a long afternoon and
early evening sampling Paris’
soul as expressed by her
sights and her lights.
We are scheduled to depart
Charles de Gaulle just after
tomorrow’s first light, so it is
time to pack Paris away one
more time. Home is just over
the horizon. But we know if
fortune smiles, we will never
really leave Paris because
Paris never leaves us.
The view over Opera's main dome looking to the
Ferris wheel adjacent to the Louvre
Eiffel Tower peeks through a timeless
message atop the Galleries Lafayette
A ghostly visage of Sacre Coeur
on a cold December night
26
27

Ice Skating in San Diego?
“Skating by the Sea”
Ice Rink at The Del!
Story and Photos by Jeffrey Lehmann
ew people think of San Diego as a
winter holiday destination. But, for me,
there is no place more magical during the
holidays than San Diego's Coronado Island.
Coronado sits directly across San Diego Bay
from Downtown San Diego. As my local friend I
drive across iconic blue Coronado Bay Bridge, we find
the views of Coronado and Downtown San Diego to
be spectacular. From this vantage point, the majestic
Hotel Del Coronado attracts the eye.
The Hotel Del Coronado is the epicenter of Coronado.
The founders Elisha Babcock, Jr., and Hampton L.
Story purchased the island, mapped out the town, and
started selling lots in 1887, sales ultimately reached
$2.25 million. Their dream was to make a grand
hotel that would be "the talk of the western world." It
opened in 1888 at a cost of $600,000 with furnishings
costing $400,000. It contained many new technologies
for the time including a state-of-the-art fire sprinkler
system, steam-powered hydraulic elevator, artificial
ice machine, and a telephone service. It was one of
the largest "electrified" buildings in the country at a
time when electricity was still a novelty. The electrical
system was not installed by Thomas Edison, though,
as a popular local legend contends. Since its opening
presidents, royalty, and movie stars have visited
frequently, proving that Babcock and Story delivered
on their dream.
The hotel is best known for the film "Some Like It
Hot" starring Marilyn Monroe, Tony Curtis, and
Jack Lemmon. The film showcases the spectacular
architecture and sun-drenched beach-life for which
San Diego is known in summer. And, the film was
named the #1 comedy of all-time by the American
Film Institute.
Celebrating the holidays in grand style here continues
to this day. Once we arrived in the back of the Hotel Del
Coronado, a winter wonderland, of a San Diego kind,
unfolded before us. Coronado’s expansive white sand
beach stretched out until it met the beautiful Pacific
Ocean and a spectacular sunset.
My friend, who had confided in me earlier that Coronado
Beach is his favorite in summer place, let out a gasp as
this scene revealed itself to us. "I had no idea there was
this much going on here during the holidays."
What is the hotel’s pool in summer is turned into an
ice rink in winter to allow "Skating by the Sea" from
November 17th until January 1st. The skating rink is
aptly named and there are beautiful views of the ocean,
especially during the day. It is so popular that it is best
to reserve your spot ahead of time on-line, since it
frequently sells out. Rink hours depend on the day. So,
check the hotel's website. The $40 price tag for up to
90-minutes includes skates and may seem a little pricey
until you learn that the proceeds benefit the children’s
charity Make-A-Wish San Diego.
Author
Jeffrey Lehmann
28
What does all this have to do with Christmas? In
1904, The Del (as it is locally known) was home to the
world's first electrically lit outdoor living Christmas
tree. Back then Christmas tree lights were a rarity and
candles were commonplace. This is often referred to as
the first "Modern Outdoor Christmas Tree".
Hotel Del Coronado
dressed in holiday lights
29

he holiday possibilities at
The Del are almost as long as
Santa’s list. There is Jingle
Roast, a private bonfire to
make s’mores, weekly holiday
movies on the beach, photos with Santa,
Gingerbread House decorating, Victorian
tea, elf deliveries to surprise your family
and friends, or just relax on the recently
restored front porch with a festive cocktail
at the aptly named Jingle Bar. There are
also special celebrations on Christmas Eve,
Christmas Day, and even a New Year's
Eve Masquerade Gala festival. Everyone is
welcome here and you can also celebrate
Chanukah with a nightly menorah lighting.
There are fun and festive shops to find
holiday gifts and souvenirs in the hotel
as well as fascinating wall displays with
historic picture and placards that chronicle
The Del’s story. Escape the hustle and
bustle in the subdued outdoor inner
courtyard where a huge Christmas tree is
spectacularly lit with the hotel bedazzled in
holiday lights as a backdrop.
Beautiful beach walk and
The Del’s Beach Cottages
Spectacular
Christmas
tree in lobby
Frostbite Lounge and Beach Side Igloos
30
ather relax by a cozy fire
to enjoy some festive
food and drink? The
Del has you covered
at their Frostbite
Lounge, which sits
between the ice rink and the beach
with beautiful views of both. Some
of the newest and most unique
additions are the Beach Side
Igloos. You can get cozy inside
the clear plastic geodesic dome
"igloo" or gather around a private
bonfire just outside to cook up hot
dogs and s'mores. There are food
and drink options on all sides
of the ice rink including the fun
Taco Shack, upscale Sheerwater,
casual Babcock and Story Bar, and
even a food truck-like option, the
Frostbite, “a place to chill”.
Kickback
at the
informal
Taco Shack
Unique beach dining at The Del
31

Sublime
peace
and
beauty in
The Del’s
inner
courtyard
The Del’s “At First Light”
holiday light show.
(The Del's world's first
modern Christmas tree)
Uniquely Californian wrapping paper at
Seaside Papery
Ornament for this
year’s theme
“Frosted by the Sea”
Lamb’s Players Theatre presents “A Christmas Carol”
Photo courtesy of Lamb’s Players
Reward yourself at Fuzziwig's Candy Factory
32
ach year The Del
picks a theme for
their celebrations.
This year's theme is
“Frosted by the Sea”
heralding the return
of the two-story high Christmas
tree in the hotel lobby after a
coronavirus hiatus. Each year
ornaments are made for this
tree for that year’s theme. The
most controversial theme to
date “Winter of Whimsy” in
2017, had this huge tree in
the lobby upside down. This
garnered national attention
and somewhat comically was
dubbed a “War on Christmas”
by Fox and Friends.
The whole town of Coronado is alive
and welcoming during the holidays.
There are numerous unique local
restaurants as well as a Chipotles.
Downtown features a string of boutique
shops to explore for that perfect
holiday gift that you can then wrap in
novelty paper featuring surfboards,
mermaids, Chihuahuas, and more
from Seaside Papery. Finally, reward
yourself with some saltwater taffy from
Fuzziwigs Candy Factory.
Ready to sit down for awhile? Enjoy
a new take on Charles Dickens “A
Christmas Carol” at the Lamb’s Players
Theatre in the middle of downtown
or listen to a Holiday Cabaret at the
nearby Coronado Playhouse.
As my friend and I head back to my car
we stop under the towering Norfolk
Island Pines lit with huge strings of
dancing lights on the front lawn of
The Del to experience the wonderful
"First Light” holiday lightshow set to
orchestrated music that repeats every
half hour from 5pm to 9pm. These
spectacularly lit trees include the
same Christmas tree made famous in
1904. As my friend and I looked up,
mesmerized at the dazzling light display,
I felt transported to a world of holiday
wonder. Then, it occurred to me that L.
Frank Baum had long stays at the Del
and wrote the “Wizard of Oz” books
here. You can’t really get more magical
than that!
33

The lighted extravaganza welcomes over 500,000 visitors!
A Festival of Lights
At the Mission Inn
(Riverside, California)
Story and Photos by Lisa Morales
he city of Riverside,
California, nestles along
the Santa Ana River. A
large metro area, Riverside
is situated 50 miles south of
Los Angeles in the area known as the
Inland Empire. Founded in the 1870s,
this vibrant community is a destination
for arts and culture and particularly
sparkles at holiday time.
The temperatures may be moderate,
but the North Pole is conjured in the
downtown area every year anchored
by the Mission Inn Hotel and Spa’s
Festival of Lights. The whole of
downtown gets into the spirit, and
attracts over 500,000 revelers of all
ages.
First created in 1992, the Festival
of Lights is an elaborate indoor and
outdoor experience for residents
and visitors alike. There are intricate
gingerbread houses to make and
eat, hot cocoa, extensively decorated
grounds and even the pools are decked
out in holiday finery.
Lobby Tree in the Mission Inn
Photo courtesy of The Mission Inn
Las Campanas
is one of several
Mission Inn
eateries on the
property
34
Step into a wonderland of holiday delights at the Mission Inn
Photo courtesy of The Mission Inn, City of Riverside
35

ProAbition
Whiskey Bar
and Restaurant
welcomes
revelers
e love seeing the joy that the
festivities bring to people of all
ages who look forward to spending
this special time of year with us,”
says co-owner, Vice Chairman and COO Kelly
Roberts. “It brings us happiness to see children
and people of all ages light up when they watch
the property lights switch on,” adds co-owner
Duane Roberts. “The Festival of Lights is a
celebration that our family looks forward to
every year.”
Take in the season’s
holiday releases at the
Regal Stadium 16 Cinema
at Riverside Plaza
Photo courtesy of
City of Riverside
The City of
Riverside
lights up the
night with
Fireworks
Photo
Courtesy of
The Mission
Inn
The Inn is the largest Mission Revival Style
building in the United States. It began as an
adobe boarding house in 1876, and as it grew
it incorporated architectural elements from 20
different California missions. The Inn houses
the oldest known bell in Christendom, dating
to 1247 AD. Each of the 238 guest rooms
and suites is unique, and there is a renowned
Tuscany-inspired spa on site, Kelly’s Spa. Four
restaurants and three lounges are on-site. The
Mission Inn Foundation offers a 75 minute
walking tour led by trained docents on the art,
architecture and history of the Mission Inn. This
is an opportunity to see parts of the Inn that are
inaccessible to the general public, reservations
are required.
Riverside Food Lab is
a vibrant food hall with
something for every taste
36
The atmosphere is
festive in the
downtown
Riverside Square
he area surrounding the Inn also gets
into the spirit of the holidays with
vendors and performers in the squares
and arcades. Downtown Riverside has seen
a revival of bistros and craft breweries in
this citrus city, as well as well-known chains. Try the
Riverside Food Lab for tremendous variety at the Inland
Empire’s first food hall. I enjoyed the food and holiday
decor at ProAbition Whiskey bar and restaurant just
steps from the Mission Inn. Paid off-street parking is
adjacent. View many other restaurant possibilities on the
Convention and Visitors Center website.
Cultural events take place throughout the area,
including at the historic Fox Performing Arts Center.
Built in 1929, the newly renovated space houses
Broadway shows and musical performances. The Inland
Pacific Ballet performs The Nutcracker in December.
The Riverside Municipal Auditorium also hosts holiday
performances. Catch the season’s holiday movies at the
Regal Stadium 16 cinema.
Other cultural venues of note on Mission Inn Avenue
include the Riverside Art Museum featuring traditional
and contemporary/modern art displaying the work of
some of the best artists in the world, including Marc
Chagall, Robert Williams, Takashi Murakami, and Millard
Sheets. Newly opened in partnership with RAM is the
Cheech Marin Center for Chicano Arts and Culture,
with hundreds of paintings, drawings, photographs,
and sculptures by artists including Patssi Valdez, Sandy
Rodriguez, Carlos Almaraz, Frank Romero, Judithe
Hernández, and Gilbert “Magú” Luján. Nearby, the
Cornelius Rumsey collection of Native American artifacts
is located at the Riverside Metropolitan Museum along
with other anthropology and natural science exhibits.
Riverside at the holidays offers many opportunities to
celebrate in this California center for the arts and culture.
The Festival of Lights event for 2022 begins on November
22, and goes through January 6, 2023.
37

Solvang's famous Round Tower
(Rundetaarn) shines bright behind
The Solvang Bakery, and the highly
photographable Alisal windmill.
Julefest!
Christmas in Solvang
Festive
holiday decor
surrounds
Solvang
Restaurant,
which serves
the Danish treat
of Aebleskiver,
year 'round.
Housed in one of the older, historic
structures in Solvang, Bit O'Denmark
Restaurant offers traditional Danish
fare alongside American favorites.
Story by Joy Bushmeyer
Photos by SolvangUSA
38
ucked away, in the
picturesque Santa
Ynez Valley, about 30 miles
north of Santa Barbara, is
the charming village
of Solvang, founded
by Danish immigrants early in
the 20th century. It is known for
windmills and wineries amidst
authentic Danish architecture such
as thatched roofs and old-world
craftsmanship, and presents Danish
culture in dozens of European
bakeries and shops. The Elverhoj
Museum of History & Art explores
the city’s Danish heritage through
personal stories and photographs.
Plus the Old Mission Santa Ines,
an early-1800s Franciscan church,
stands adjacent to the downtown
and provides additional historical
material.
Besides being named “The Most
Christmassy Town in America”
by Time Magazine, Solvang was
labeled “One of the Most Magical
Christmas Towns and Villages Across
the World” by Oprah Daily. Many
occasions are celebrated in Solvang,
notably the Danish Days Festival in
September, but none is more apropos
than the Christmas season’s
Julefest! While Solvang feels like
Christmas all year round, Julefest
brings the season to a fabulous
finale. The month-long holiday
event includes the Solvang Tree
Lighting Ceremony, a Julefest
Parade, Santa Visits in Solvang
Park, a “Nisse” Adventure of
finding hidden Elves, Solvang
Food Tours, Candlelight Tours
and more! After last year’s highly
modified version of the beloved
annual event, Solvang’s Julefest
festivities happily are making a
triumphant return this year.
39

A local musical group performs holiday
tunes in the Solvang Park Gazebo.
The Solvang Trolley, also known as The Honen ("The Hen"
in Danish), appears in a past Solvang Julefest Parade.
Each year, near the start of Julefest,
the Solvang Christmas Tree gets
illuminated in Solvang Park.
he Julefest Tree Lighting
Ceremony included ballerinas
encircling the Solvang
Christmas Tree plus
live-entertainment and caroling in
conjunction with lighting the tree.
The following day brought back the
famous Solvang Julesfest Parade, an
exciting event that brings out many
locals in festive formations and
demonstrations; sometimes even
including their livestock!
Saturdays throughout Julefest
include town-wide Solvang Food
Tours (led by the foodie and photo
experts at “Eat This, Shoot That!”),
and the popular evening Candlelight
Tours, which have returned on
select Saturday nights. Tickets for
these events include holiday-themed
refreshments and a VIP Santa Meet
and Greet experience. Both tour
options present the means to explore
and experience Solvang on foot while
enjoying the festivities.
Besides visiting Santa in Solvang
Park’s Gazebo-turned-Santa’s-
Workshop, once again the
“Nisse” (Christmas Elves) have
returned and hidden themselves
throughout downtown Solvang.
Participants can join in a citywide
hunt for these mysterious
elves and check with the Visitors
Center for information about
prizes upon completion of the
hunt.
Providing the backdrop for the
magical celebration of Julesfest
is the ambiance of everyday
Solvang. The spirit of Christmas
exists here all year long. From the
charming, fairy-like toy stores to
the dozens of boutique shops, the
atmosphere is always enchanting.
When it comes time to eat,
there are endless possibilities in
Solvang! Besides the authentic
Danish bill of fare such as
Aebleskiver (a kind of pancake ball
served with powdered sugar and
raspberry syrup), Danish Sausage
Medisterpolse (sweet Danish
sausage filled with pork, garlic,
ginger, onions, allspice and other
seasonings), Danish Frikadeller
(Danish Meatballs), and delicious
Danish pastries of all kinds, there
are plentiful wine tasting options
from many of the 150 wineries in
the valley. Elevated street cuisine
includes locally-sourced fish tacos
on hand-made tortillas, comforting
ramen noodles, European-style
pretzels and sausages, and Italian
standbys. Elevated new-Californian
fare is in the form of Michelinhonored
menus, heritage grain
sourdough loaves, limited
edition cheese releases, locallyroasted
coffees, exotic and familiar
hand-bottled spice blends, and Tiki
cocktails and craft beers.
The recognizable clock tower at Solvang's
Wine Valley Inn & Cottages lodging
property.
Solvang's
famous Alisal
windmill lights
up the night
sky during
Julefest.
40
41

here are more than 20 lodging options in
Solvang where Scandinavian design meets Old
World charm with interior courtyards and cozy
communal spaces. Additionally there are plenty
of free parking options for locals and daytrippers.
While walking around Solvang is very
comfortable, don’t miss the fun of a “Family Surrey Cycle”
adventure, with seats and pedals for six, or a relaxing and
informative Trolley Tour behind two beautiful Belgian draft
horses.
Surrounding Solvang are several fun and spectacular tourist
options. There is the towering, classy Chumash Casino, just
east of Solvang. A little beyond that is the beautiful Lake
Cachuma, a fishing and camping paradise, nearly 5 miles
long. If you take that route, Highway 154 (also called the
Chumash Highway or the San Marcos Pass Road) toward
Santa Barbara you will cross the Cold Spring Canyon Arch
Bridge, the highest arch bridge in California, about 400 feet
above the canyon floor. Continuing about 20 winding miles
to get over the mountains and back down to Santa Barbara,
the scenery becomes spectacular, as the view is the expanse
of the Pacific Ocean and the Channel Islands.
raveling south out of
Solvang on Alisal Road
you pass cattle-dotted pastures,
then wind through moss-laden
oak and sycamore groves,
stunning as the sunlight
flickers throug them. You might enjoy
the pretty and public Nojoqui Park, with
its 10-minute walk to a waterfall.
This scenic route takes you briefly onto
the Old Coast Highway and then onto
the main Highway 101, south of the
Buellton exit.
No matter how you go, or when you go,
you will always enjoy Solvang. And don’t
forget, it’s the “The Most Christmassy
Town in America”! So if you’re looking
for some seasonal enjoyment for
Christmas, go there in December and
experience the magic of
Julefest!
Popular Solvang breakfast and lunch
destination, The Belgian Cafe sits
along bustling Copenhagen Drive.
Olsen's Danish Village Bakery's
giant gingerbread house is an annual
attraction for both visitors and locals.
Solvang's replica Round Tower
(Rundetaarn) peeks out from
behind holiday-lit shops and
bakeries along Alisal Road.
Colorful half-timber buildings
line Solvang's Alisal Road,
reminiscent of Northern
European village scenes.
42
43

"Winter Is Coming"
Dettifoss – Located on the northeast corner of Vatnajokull National Park,
Dettifoss is one of most powerful waterfalls in Europe. It’s also where the
opening scene of Ridley Scott’s Prometheus was filmed.
Game Of Thrones
Iceland Locations
Story and Photos by Sandra Foyt
“Winter is coming. We know what’s coming with it."
Jon Snow, Game of Thrones
Selfoss – One of the northern waterfalls of Iceland was covered in
snow by mid-October. FYI – “foss” means waterfall in Icelandic.
Snow transforms Iceland’s landscapes, and not just in the
winter months. Even in the shoulder seasons of Spring and
Fall, you can experience snow in the North. In fact, on a
recent mid-October counterclockwise road trip around
Iceland, we were grounded for a day by a powerful blizzard.
Iceland’s winters should be approached cautiously, but for
Game of Thrones film crews, they were the perfect way to
depict the northern reaches of the fictional continent of
Westeros. In the tv show’s first season, computer-generated
imagery (CGI) was used to depict The Wall, a massive
barrier protecting the Seven Kingdoms from the monsters
beyond.
With the show’s popularity and an increased budget however,
many of Game of Thrones’ frozen scenes were filmed in
Iceland in Season Two. Much of the storyline of possible
heir to the Seventh Kingdom’s Iron Throne, Jon Snow, is
filmed in the wintry regions. And over of the course of eight
seasons, filming extended to warmer settings too.
Rjukandefoss –
Seen here after
a Fall blizzard,
this is one of the
taller waterfalls in
Northern Iceland.
44
45

HERE ARE 10 BREATHTAKING ICELAND LANDSCAPES
USED TO FILM GAME OF THRONES SCENES.
Godafoss – Located
near Akureyri, Iceland’s
second largest city.
SVINAFELLSJOKULL GLACIER
VATNAJOKULL NATIONAL PARK
Game of Thrones filming in Iceland began with Season Two settings in Northern Iceland
that captured the long winter of the northern kingdom, and beyond. One of these settings is
Svinafellsjokull Glacier.
Once dubbed Iceland’s Hollywood Glacier because its accessibility and frigid beauty made
Svinafell an ideal location to film scenes. Not just for Game of Thrones, but also for films such as
Interstellar and Batman Begins. Then, in 2018, a fracture was found in the glacier, possibly caused
by global warming and the location’s popularity. Svinafellsjokull was closed due to the dangers of
rockslides and avalanches, but visitors can still view the glacier edge at Vatnajokull National Park.
Svinafellsjokull Glacier
– The blue colors of the
glacier indicate that it is
the deeper layers of ice.
GODAFOSS
The other setting, Godafoss, or “waterfall of the gods,” is said to
have received its name from an old Icelandic tale. It’s believed that
a Viking ruler cast his statues of pagan gods into the falls, and
thus, a legend was born.
The 98-foot horseshoe-shaped waterfall is impressive, especially
under a snow blanket. Seen in late Fall, or Winter, when Iceland’s
proximity to the Arctic Circle ensures an extended Golden Hour
it’s obvious why this area was chosen for Game of Thrones Season
Three. It’s an ideal environment to show Jon Snow’s journey
beyond the wall.
46
47

LAKE MYVATN
HVERIR GEOTHERMAL AREA
When Jon Snow ventures north of The Wall in Season Three, he meets Mance
Raydar. The King-Beyond-the-Wall leads the Free Folk, or “wildings” who
don’t recognize the laws of the Seven Kingdoms.
Lake Myvatn and the geothermal regions that surround it proved to be an
excellent place to show Jon’s adventures. And it’s also where you can find
Grjotagia Cave, the geothermal grotto setting of Jon Snow and the wilding
Ygritte’s love scene.
The cave scene was replicated in a studio because it was too small for the
filming. And the cave itself was later closed to the public due to the negative
impact from the influx of tourists because of the Game of Thrones effect.
It’s open to visitors again, but as it's located on private land, it’s subject to
possible closure at any time.
Although there’s no lack of winter scenes
in Iceland, snowstorms don’t show up on
demand. That’s where the geothermal mud
pots at Hverir, near Lake Myvatn, proved
useful.
When it was time to film the Season
Three scene where Samwell Tarly braves a
blizzard to return to the Night’s Watch men
guarding The Wall, the steam rising at the
fumaroles of Hverir were used to create the
illusion.
48
49

Snorkeling in the rift between the Eurasian and North American continents is a popular activity year-round in
Thingvellir National Park.
Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon – Believe it or not, the lagoon
didn’t appear until the 1930s when Breiðamerkurjökull, an
outlet glacier of Vatnajökull , began to recede.
THINGVELLIR NATIONAL PARK
JOKULSARLON GLACIER LAGOON
Thingvellir National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its cultural value. From
931 until 1798 it was the site of the Alping, the annual Viking parliament. But it’s also a valley
rift where the Eurasian and North American continents meet.
The national park was used to film multiple GOT scenes in Season Four.
At this point in the story, Jon Snow has left the wilding,Ygritte. And the Free Folk leader has
commanded her to attack a southern village. Pjooveldisbaerinn, Commonwealth Farm, is the
replica Viking farm used for this scene.
Meanwhile, the waterfall, Thorufoss, is where one of the Khaleesi’s dragons, Drogon, incinerates
a herd of goats.
By Season Seven, White Walkers, mythical ice creatures, roam the
land. They command an army of the dead and seek nothing less
than the eradication of all life.
Glimpses of the Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon can be seen as the
White Walkers march south towards The Wall. The real glacier
lagoon is stunning, and the highlight of any visit to Iceland.
Sadly, its very growth, measured at 500 square meters per year, is a
potent reminder of the real-world threat of global warming.
And at the tip of the valley rift, the Almannagja Canyon serves as the setting for three Season
Four scenes. In Episode One, it hosts a wilding camp. While in Episodes Five and Eight it’s the
site of the Bloody Gate on the eastern edge of the Kingdom of Mountain and Vale.
50
51

Kirkjufell – During the Ice Age, this
former “nunatak” mountain reached
above surrounding glaciers.
Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach –
Beware of sneaker waves at this
beach, they can be deadly.
KIRKJUFELL
REYNISFJARA
BLACK SAND BEACH
Kirkjufell, or “Church Mountain,” is reputed to be the most
photographed mountain in Iceland. Its natural shape makes it an
ideal setting to film the Game of Thrones’ Arrowhead Mountain.
The fictional mountain is a landmark north of The Wall where Jon
Snow battles the army of the dead assembled by the Night King.
Universally recognized as one of the world’s most beautiful
beaches, Reynisfjara features black sand, basalt sea stacks, and
dangerously powerful waves. Located near the southern town
of Vik, the Black Sand Beach is one of Iceland’s most popular
attractions.
In Season Seven, it’s where the White Walkers’ army of the dead
march on the Night Watch castle at Eastwatch by the Sea as they
breach The Wall.
52
53

Fjadargljufur Canyon –Even when
it was closed, the canyon was so
popular that visitors attempted to
bribe rangers to be let in.
Skogafoss – On sunny
days you can almost
guarantee seeing a
rainbow at midday.
FJADARGLJUFUR CANYON
SKOGAFOSS
Arguably the most thrilling scene in Game of Thrones occurs in the premiere of the
final season when Jon Snow and the Khaleesi take to the air astride dragons. The
actual ride takes place on a mechanical buck in front of a green screen, although the
setting was filmed with the use of a helicopter at Fjadargljufur Canyon.
The canyon first gained attention when it was featured in Justin Bieber’s “I’ll Show
You” music video in 2015. Then, between 2015 to 2019, it saw over a million visitors.
The impact was so severe that in 2019 the environmentally sensitive area was closed
to the public for a time. Unfortunately, it proved difficult to keep visitors at bay and
in subsequent years, the canyon fluctuated between being open or closed. It is open
to the public at this time, with some ledges roped off.
If there were to be a happy ending to Game of Thrones, the series would’ve ended
with the first episode of Season Eight. After flying through the canyon, Jon and
Daenerys land at Skogafoss Waterfall and share a passionate kiss.
It was a short-lived happiness and even the waterfall isn’t as it appeared; it was double
stacked to appear taller.
And yet, for the most part, Iceland’s natural beauty surpasses anything seen on
television.
WINTER TRAVEL IN ICELAND
Winter driving in Iceland can be hazardous, and there are certain roads that are closed.
But all these sights can be reached easily from Iceland’s main ring road, Route 1. For
more trip planning recommendations, check Iceland travel tips.
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55

DUDE RANCH
Recipe Roundup
Let the Wild West inspire your next culinary adventure!
Story and Photos by Julie Bielenberg
Recipes and Photos courtesy of the Dude Ranches
It’s no secret that one of the most amazing perks of dude ranch travel is the food. From
generational dishes to five-star cuisine, the myriad of mealtime journeys can be just as exciting
and thrilling as rounding up cattle or a High Rockies ride. Here are seasonal dishes, derived
from authentic ranch culture, and offered to you for a holiday treat.
Stay warm, saddle up and see you on the ride. — Julie Bielenberg
56
Once the snow
really starts to
fall in December,
the entire ranch
becomes so festive
with decorations and
nature’s touches.
Author Julie
Bielenberg
enjoying some
morning kisses
from one of
the Vista Verde
Ranch Herd.
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COLORADO CUISINE
I’m a Colorado girl and love our local produce featuring stone fruits, heirloom beans and tomatoes, along with
plentiful mushrooms, in season. And, we certainly don’t have a shortage of heritage beef, pork and chicken. Plus,
there’s a thriving trout population for a mighty tasty bonus.
vistaverde.com
Vista Verde Ranch
The AAA Four Diamond Vista
Verde Guest Ranch is located 35
minutes from Steamboat Springs
and open June through October,
and December through March. Both
seasons run daily horse programs;
however, it’s the numerous offthe-saddle
activities that set this
ranch apart from the herd. There’s
photography, culinary classes, yoga,
fat bikes on snow, leather working,
sleigh rides, wine and beer tastings,
tubing, snowmobiling and more.
There’s an indoor riding arena for
winter and an adventure center.
When it comes to bedding down,
all guests have choices of extreme
comfort in either cabins or lodge
rooms, some even with personal
hot tubs. The impressive lodge
houses a true cowboy bar, great
room for dozens, games and the
dining room for all meals with
enormous fireplace for all the
seasons.
One of the ranch guest’s favorite activities in winter is
photographing the horses with the snow backdrop.
A dude ranch can be the coziest and
dreamiest destination for the holidays.
The ranch’s
Nordic Center is
always stocked
with equipment
and festive.
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Vista Verde Ranch Recipes
A little morning surprise for all ages, the Vista Verde-branded
pancakes are a multi-generational favorite.
Photo courtesy of Vista Verde Dude Ranch
Scouting mushrooms while on horseback or foot,
it’s always an educational experience.
I visited in winter and relished in the quiet horseback rides with snow crunching along the
trail and solitude of the animals and few riders, actually it was just my husband and our
wrangler. The evening meals, fireside with earthy and cold-weather dishes were memorable
and we easily sat at our table for two or more hours nightly listening to music and enjoying
the ranch personalities. My favorite, the Parker House Rolls with apple butter!
SMOKED TROUT DIP
Ingredients:
12 oz High quality smoked trout
4 oz Cream cheese, room temp
½ c. Sour cream
3 Tbs horseradish
2 tsp Salt
½ tsp Esplette Powder
1Tbs Lemon juice
1tsp ea. Tarragon, Parsley, Chive, and Chervil,
Chopped fine
Method:
1. Combine cream cheese, sour cream, and
horseradish in bowl; mix until smooth.
2. Add salt, Esplette, and lemon juice. Mix well.
3. Gently fold in trout and herbs.
Serve with crackers. will keep up to 3 days in
refrigerator.
Smoked
Trout Dip
Parker House Rolls
PARKER HOUSE ROLLS
(makes 20-22 rolls)
Ingredients:
2 ¼ ounces warm water
4 ½ ounces melted butter
1 ½ cups warm milk
2 ¼ ounces granulated sugar
½ teaspoon dry yeast
1 ½ pound all-purpose flour
1 ½ teaspoon salt
Procedure:
1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
2. Place the ingredients into the bowl of a Kitchen
Aid mixer with dough hook attachment and mix
on speed-1 for 2 minutes, then on speed-2 for an
additional 2 minutes. (If you do not have a mixer,
knead the dough vigorously for at least 10 minutes;
the dough should be warm, soft, and a bit shiny)
3. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl that is big
enough to allow the dough to double in size and
cover tightly with plastic wrap.
4. Allow the dough to proof (rise) for 1 hour at
room temperature. After an hour, fold the dough
over itself twice, cover with plastic again, and let it
proof another hour.
5. After the second hour, turn the dough onto a
countertop or cutting board and divide into 2 ounce
pieces. Shape the pieces into balls by cupping your
hand over them and making a circular motion
while using the countertop for resistance (this takes
some practice to do well). You are trying to make a
smooth, round roll without tearing the “skin” of the
dough.
6. Place the rolls into a lightly buttered 9” x 13”x 2”
pan, close together, but with room to expand. Brush
the rolls with one egg, beaten, sprinkle with kosher
salt or flaky sea salt and bake for 9 minutes; then
rotate the pan and bake an additional 9 minutes.
Remove from oven and let cool in the pan.
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Vista Verde’s Chef in action preparing a farm to fork dinner.
Photo courtesy of Vista Verde Dude Ranch
61

The Ranch at Emerald Valley
One of the newest luxury dude
ranches to open in the world, AAA
Five Diamond Broadmoor Resort,
created The Ranch at Emerald Valley
which only requires a two-night
stay, a rarity in dude ranch structure.
The ranch is actually a 45-minute
transport ride to a secluded, private,
ranch estate. There are 13 cabins and
a main, historic lodge, which can
accommodate up to 32 guests. And,
it’s all Broadmoor-style, translating
to extreme luxury and attention
broadmoor.com/the-ranch-at-emerald-valle
to cuisine and sport adventure.
The landscape is stunning, nestled
amongst pine, evergreen and aspen
with private fishing ponds.
Daily activities include horseback
riding, a multitude of games and
activities, guided hikes, a soak in
the outdoor hot tub, a book by the
fireside, or enjoying fine wine while
taking in the evening sunset. It’s the
Broadmoor atheistic in extreme,
pristine wilderness. The season runs
Labor Day through fall.
The cuisine is prepared for those who
adventure. Expect gourmet meals,
for every meal! An array of fresh and
crispy pastries awaits guests each
morning at sunrise with cowboy coffee.
Lunches often feature legendary fish
dishes and iconic salads and fresh
breads. Appetizer and cocktail hour
rolls in your four-course evenings,
often served al fresco, underneath a
blanket of stars due to limited light
pollution.
Just for fun!
The Ranch at
Emerald Valley
gazebo discreetly
tucks away the hot
tub, with plenty of
room to relax.
Photo courtesy of
The Broadmoor
Even the Ranch at Emerald
Valley staff can’t escape
watching what size trout are
being reeled in by the anglers.
Only after lunch is set on the
stunning deck, of course!
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The Broadmoor’s Ranch at Emerald Valley usually has a trusty fourpawed
friend to help assist with fly-fishing on their private waters.
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The exquisite and intimate Ranch at
Emerald Valley Dining Room.
Photo courtesy of The Broadmoor
The Ranch at Emerald Valley Recipes
YUKON GOLD POTATO GNOCCHI
At the Ranch at Emerald Valley, their Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi is made from scratch and served as
an appetizer, but it can easily be enjoyed as an entree, made even easier with store-bought gnocchi.
INGREDIENTS
1/2 cup butternut squash, peeled and diced
1/4 cup walnuts
3 TBL butter
1/2 shallot, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
4 leaves sage, sliced
1/2 cup dried cranberries
1 lb gnocchi
This was the lunch spread just for two of us at The
Ranch at Emerald Valley! Numerous ingredients were
harvested from The Broadmoor’s garden off-site.
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Toss butternut squash with oil, salt and pepper. Place on a baking pan
and roast for 10 minutes or until soft when pierced with a fork. Remove and let cool. Lower the oven
temp to 350 degrees.
2. Place the walnuts on a baking sheet and toast at 350 for no longer than 5 minutes. Set aside.
3. Melt the butter in a large skillet over high heat. Stir until the butter smells nutty - but watch closely
to keep from burning. Remove from heat.
4. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the gnocchi. Wait until they float to the surface, then
simmer another 30 seconds. Remove and set aside, and toss with a little olive oil so they don't stick
together.
5. In a hot skillet, add a dash of oil and saute the shallots and garlic for about 30 seconds. Add the
brown butter to the pan. Add the gnocchi and toss until some of the browned butter flecks stick to
the gnocchi. Add the roasted squash, walnuts, sage, and cranberries. Toss again and let cook for a few
minutes until garnishes are heated through. Remove from heat, season to taste, and serve.
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The Ranch at Emerald Valley Recipes
The Ranch at Emerald Valley Recipes
CEDAR SMOKED STEELHEAD & BLACK TRUFFLE FUMET
STEELHEAD
• 6 six-ounce steelhead portions
• 1 cup cedar wood chips
• 2 cups English peas, blanched
• 10 scallions cut into sticks
Serves 6
• 10 scallions cut into sticks
• 1 shallot, finely diced
•2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 head romaine lettuce, chopped
fresh parsley, chopped (for garnish)
FUMET
• 2 shallots, chopped • garlic cloves, crushed •1 TBL oil
• 10 sprigs thyme • 1/4 cup black peppercorns • 4 cups veal stock
• 1black truffle, shaved (or substitute 1/4 lb shiitake mushrooms, sliced)
• Few drops truffle oil (if not using black truffle)
SMOKE the STEELHEAD
1. Insert a cooking rack on the bottom of a baking pan. Place fish on the rack. Leave a space of about
5 inches from end of the pan.
2. At the 5-inch mark, make an aluminum foil "wall" that will stand side to side from the bottom of
the rack to the top of the pan. Cover the pan with foil, leaving the empty space uncovered for now.
3. In a cast-iron or stainless steel pan, heat the wood chips on the stove. Do not use a Teflon nonstick
pan; you want the chips to catch fire. Take the chips and pour them into the empty space in the
baking pan, behind the wall separating the fish from the fire. Quickly pull the rest of the foil over the
chips and seal foil over the edges of the pan. The chips will smolder when covered and infuse the pan
with smoke. Use hand towels when sealing the foil.
4. Leave covered for 5 minutes. When removing the foil, have a cup of water to pour on the chips, as
they may still have some embers on them. Remove the fish from the pan to a platter.
PREPARE the FUMET
1. In a saucepan, lightly sweat the shallot, garlic, thyme, and peppercorns in 1 tablespoon of oil for 2
minutes. If using, shave in the truffle or substitute sliced mushrooms; cook 1 minute if using truffles
and 5 if using mushrooms. Add the stock, and let simmer for 30 minutes. Strain and season with salt
and pepper.
FINISH the DISH
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Season the fish with salt and pepper. Place in a large cast iron
skillet with a dollop of oil. Sear for about 3 minutes, and finish in the oven to desired doneness, 8 to
10 minutes for medium.
2. In a hot pan, sauté the peas and scallions with the shallot and garlic in a small amount of oil. Just
before plating, add the romaine. Toss to coat the lettuce with everything in the pan; it should just
barely wilt. Season with salt and pepper, and transfer to plates.
3. Please salmon on top, and garnish with parsley and fresh truffle -- or substitute with a few drops of
truffle oil.
4. Serve the fumet on the side. When ready to eat, pour about a 1/2 cup over each dish.
lostvalleyranch.com
This AAA Four Diamond Ranch is one of the
closest dude ranches to the Denver-metro area,
and sustained immense destruction during the
Hayman Fire of 2002. The ranch never wavered
a season; horseback rides now weave in and out
Lost Valley Ranch
of the burnt landscape that has been rejuvenated with
stunning, green vegetation. And, after wildfire, comes
growth of the elusive morrell mushrooms amongst
other varieties that wranglers can help you collect
in-season. A bonus, Lost Valley has weekend stays
throughout the year, uber cozy cabins and an incredible
lodge for dining and dancing.
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ARIZONA APPETITE
There’s nothing like escaping to the warm, sunny desert in winter. Meandering trails through cacti and arid
landscape heat up the soul during dreary months and moments. Al fresco dining, picnic lunches and sunset
tapas welcome in spring and there’s nothing better than a grill-prepared dish, alongside Classic Western tunes
and a perfectly-stoked fire.
ranchodelaosa.com
Rancho de la Osa
This is a remote, luxury dude
ranch and the most historic in
Arizona. Rancho de la Osa has
hosted U.S. Presidents, movie
stars and my personal favorite,
Pancho Villa. He attempted
to take over the Ranch, and, a
cannon ball from this attack
is still on the property in their
Hacienda. There’s nothing like
saddling up, bar side, for a cold
beer where legendary battles took
place.
Another incredible historic and
modern-day experience is their
location on the U.S. and Mexico
border. You can take rides to
see the border through wooded
mesquite trails and low sandy
washes. The Border Wall runs
approximately four miles from the
historic border crossing, where
thousands of cattle and livestock
were moved into the United States
beginning in the early 1800s.
Rancho de la Osa’s infamous border-ride. Photo courtesy of Rancho de la Oso
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The colorful sunset in the courtyard of Ranch de la Osa.
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The legendary and historic Cantina at Rancho de la Osa.
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This is truly a history-lover’s dream destination in winter.
Summer can be too hot to explore the Native American
ruins that are in the adjacent 120,000 acres of the Buenos
Aires
Wildlife Refuge.
Ride in the warm winter sun on horseback, try your aim
at sport shooting or archery, and definitely sign up for the
UTV tours and e-biking through the desert.
The guest suites are extremely colorful and decorated to
match the Southwest and adobe landscape. There are 19
suites, but I recommend Room 1, the Pancho Villa Villa.
Come dinner, expect intimate Southwestern, ranchstyle
meals in their historic dining room. Some nights,
there’s live music and even cowboy poetry as you sip your
cocktail.
Author Julie Bielenberg and her colleague enjoying
the colorful scenery post-ride at Rancho de la Osa.
Dude Ranch Recipes from Rancho de la Osa
from True Ranch Collection Chef Jeffery Burgess
Links: Rancho de la Osa: https://ranchodelaosa.com
True Ranch Collection: https://trueranchcollection.com
GRILLED SHRIMP COCKTAIL
Preheat the grill to high heat. Peel and de-vein the largest shrimp that you want, using about
16-20 shrimp and leaving on the tails. Drain and dry the shrimp. Then place in a bowl.
Marinate the shrimp in 1 cup of a blended oil 90/10, 1 tablespoon of crushed red pepper
flakes, 1 tablespoon of coarse ground black pepper, 1 teaspoon of ground cumin, 1
tablespoon of soy sauce, 1 teaspoon of dry mustard (you can use wet), 1 tablespoon kosher
salt. Toss all ingredients with the shrimp in a large bowl.
The shrimp do not need to marinate very long because the flavor comes from the high
temperature while cooking. Drain off the excess oil and carefully place the shrimp on the hot
grill from back to front, leaving lots of space. Cooking time will vary depending on the size
of the shrimp—larger shrimp will typically be about 1 minute per side. You should have nice
char marks and the shrimp will be about 80% cooked.
Pull them off the grill and let cool to room temperature, then put in a container and in the
refrigerator until you want to serve. Serve on a large platter with lemon wedges and cocktail
sauce. I add fresh horseradish and lime juice to cocktail sauce and it is always a big hit.
Nothing set’s winter desert sunset better than “pear”fectly prepared cocktail
outside the cantina at Rancho de la Osa. Photo courtesy of Rancho de la Oso
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Dude Ranch Recipes from Rancho de la Osa
CAST IRON PORK CHOPS
Start with 6 each 1-inch-thick pork chops. I use end to end loin chop, but you can use
your preferred chop. Bone-in will change the cooking time.
To rub the chops: 20-30 leaves of fresh sage sliced thick, 15 large cloves of fresh rough
chopped garlic, (using fresh garlic makes a big difference—if you use precut you will be
missing out on a lot of the flavor.) 2 tablespoons kosher salt, 1 tablespoon coarse ground
black pepper, 1 tablespoons crushed red pepper, 3 tablespoons whole grain mustard (can
be substituted with other mustards), 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce.
Mix all rub ingredients together ensuring they are blended well. Place the marinade in a
large bowl and coat each pork chop well. At this point you can store in the refrigerator
overnight. Or leave them covered for an hour or two. For best results the pork chops
should be room temperature or as close to as you can when starting to cook.
In a large cast iron skillet heated to medium-high heat place about 1 tablespoon of butter
and 1 tablespoon of cooking oil. When the butter starts to brown and there is no more
sizzling gently place the pork chops in the fat. When placing them lay them away from
you to prevent oil from splashing toward you. Then watch the sides of the meat when you
start to see browning around the edges and the meat is starting to cook then flip them.
Try to only flip them once. Again, watch for the browning on the edges. Pork is best
served medium but cook them to your liking. If you have thicker chops you can place the
pan in the oven to finish cooking. If you do that then you should put in the oven right
after you flip them. If you are using a thermometer pull them at 128° and let rest and they
will carry up to the perfect temperature.
Best served with buttery mashed potatoes and blackened green beans.
MONTANA MEALTIME
Horseback riding in the wild and stunning Rocky Mountains makes anyone ready for supper. America’s most
iconic national park, Yellowstone, has legacy in cuisine, and so do many of the nearby dude ranches. A favorite
winter ritual of mine is a sweet dessert with piping hot coffee to kick off the afternoon.
ninequartercircle.com
Nine Quarter Circle Ranch
The Nine Quarter Circle
Ranch is nestled in a
mountain valley just outside
Yellowstone National Park.
Once the Park was designated,
homesteaders began to occupy
the surrounding area. In 1912,
several homesteads combined
to form what is today the Nine
Quarter Circle Ranch. This is
a working horse ranch, run by
the three-generation Kelsey
family. And, many of the rustic
buildings are still in use on the
ranch.
For the rider, there are endless
trails through the neighboring
wilderness for novice to expert.
The Kelsey’s horses are bred,
born, raised and trained at
the ranch; therefore, matching
ranch guests with the ideal
horse is part of the generational
experience.
The mighty wranglers of Nine Quarter Circle Ranch
Photo courtesy of Nine Quarter Circle Ranch
Dinner spread at Nine Quarter Circle Ranch.
Photo courtesy of Nine Quarter Circle Ranch
It's time to eat.
Photo courtesy of Nine
Quarter Circle Ranch
Along with riding, the busy
summer season includes flyfishing
just steps from your
cabin at the Taylor Fork, a
tributary of the ‘Blue Ribbon’
Gallatin River. Or, cast your
fly at the ranch’s private trout
pond. For kids, there is easy
access to fisheries on the
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Gallatin and Madison rivers.
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Summer hikers relish in the
Madison and Gallatin Ranges,
and a few beautiful hikes are
accessible from the ranch.
Trek through wildflowers and
mountain meadows to Taylor
Falls and Lizard Lake.
Nine Quarter Circle Ranch Recipe
CARAMEL PECAN ROLLS
(2 Glass containers, 12 rolls/pan)
Nine Quarter Ranch Circle
Ranch has ‘to-die-for desserts’
with lunch and dinner in
addition to gourmet meal
service throughout the stay.
Once your belly is full from
the day, rest your head in
traditional, mountain log cabins
complete with handmade quilts.
Riding into the sunset at Nine Quarter Circle Ranch.
Colorful and cozy at Nine Quarter Circle Ranch.
Photo courtesy of Nine Quarter Circle Ranch
Photo courtesy of Nine Quarter Circle Ranch
INGREDIENTS
1 pkg. yeast (1Tbsp.) 1/4 c. warm water
1 c. milk, scalded 1/3 c. Crisco shortening
1/3 c. sugar 1 1/2 tsp salt
2 eggs 4 - 4 1/2 c. all purpose flour
3 Tbsp. butter or margarine 3/4 c. dark corn syrup
1/2 c. packed brown sugar 1/2 c. chopped nuts
1 Tbsp. cinnamon 2 Tbsp. melted butter
1. Sprinkle yeast over warm water. Let stand
until softened.
2. Pour scalded milk over 1/3 c. Crisco, sugar
& salt in large bowl. Stir until Crisco
is melted. (Can also place milk, Crisco, sugar &
salt in large bowl and microwave until Crisco
is melted. - Let cool before adding yeast.) Add
eggs, one at a time, beating until smooth. Stir
in 1 c. flour, then softened yeast. Add enough
flour to make a soft dough.
3. Turn dough onto lightly floured surface and
knead until smooth and elastic.
4. Place dough in a greased deep bowl and
turn to bring greased surface to top. Cover, let
rise in warm place until doubled, about one
hour.
5. Melt butter in a small saucepan, stir in corn
syrup and 1/3 c. brown sugar. Spread mixture
evenly over bottom of a 13 X 9 X 2" baking
pan.
6. Combine raisins, nuts, 1/2 c. brown sugar
and cinnamon. Set aside.
7. Punch dough down. Roll into 16 X 12:
rectangle on lightly floured surface. Spread
with melted Crisco or butter. Sprinkle raisin
mixture over top. Roll up starting with longer
side. Cut into 15 slices. Place slices cut side
down in pan.
8. Cover pan tightly with plastic wrap and
refrigerate 2 to 24 hours.
9. When ready to bake remove from fridge,
uncover and let stand at room temperature for
15 minutes.
10. Preheat oven at 350°, bake for 35 to 40
minutes. Invert pan immediately.
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Parroquia del Señor de la Ascención, Santiago Ixcuintla.