Canadian World Traveller Spring 2023 Issue

Afterward, we drove the short distance to
Jala and checked into the Nukari Quinta
Boutique Hotel. Nukari is a Nahuatl word,
meaning 'story', and what a story the building
told. It was initially constructed in 1778
by a wealthy landowner family, Los Partida.
Over the years, it was transformed into a
hotel and then upgraded and opened in
2021 as the Nukari. Inside are the classic
features of a Spanish Colonial home, with a
central courtyard. White arches and
columns are complemented by rustic red
walls and at sunset, they positively glow,
along with the surrounding mountains. As
an all-suite hotel, the rooms are enormous,
with poster beds, comfortable living rooms,
and a shower and Jacuzzi in the bathroom.
The rooftop bar and restaurant of the hotel
provide great views of the tower and green
cupola of the Basilica Lateranense, the main
landmark in the town. And a walk just outside
the hotel on the cobblestone streets
leads to Jala's oldest building, the Iglesia de
la Concepción, built in 1582.
Jala is one of Nayarit's four Magic Towns
(Pueblos Mágicos), recognized for embodying
magical qualities. These can include
beauty, natural wonders, history, culture,
folklore, traditions, cuisine, warm hospitality,
and more. Coincidentally, we arrived on
February 17, and that evening a celebratory
parade in the downtown area marked the
anniversary of Jala's Magic Town designation.
The other Magic Towns in Nayarit
include Sayulita, Mexcaltitan, and
Compostela.
Jala is the home of the annual Feria del
Elote (Corn Festival) that coincides with the
August 15th celebration of the Virgin of the
Assumption, associated with the Basilica. In
fact, Jala produces the largest cobs of corn
in the world, some of which reach a length
of 20 inches (50.3 cm).
And Jala is also famous for the 'Black Giant'
that looms over the town. Ceboruco is a
2280-meter (7480 feet) high, active stratovolcano
that last erupted in 1870. Driving to
the Ceboruco sign and the steaming
fumaroles takes about 45 minutes. On the
way, the road leads past a popular weekend
breakfast/brunch outdoor buffet restaurant,
El Rincon Del Campesino: Sabores del
Campo (A corner of the farmer's field:
Flavours of the Hills), where guests help
themselves to heaping portions of cactus
salad, re-fried beans, local cheese, spicy
guacamole, grilled beef, and delicious stews
of potato, chicken and pork, as well as zucchini-pumpkin,
tomato, corn, and onion.
Hand-made Gorditas de Sal (small thick
corn tortillas) soak up the juices.
On the narrow, winding, grassy road leading
to the volcano, stray cows slowly meander
out of the way in a dry desert landscape
dotted with agave fields. At the colorful
Ceboruco sign, white steam pours out of the
natural vents, making for dramatic photos.
And those with time and water bottles can
take the paths to explore the area, including
the crater.
As the sun set back in Jala, the dull beige
mountains turned a bright reddish gold. A
walk around town revealed the vivid colours
of the public buildings and houses: pink,
blue, yellow, red, green, and orange. And
every street ended with amazing mountain
vistas.
Dinner that evening was at Mirabel
Cenaduría, just around the corner from the
Basilica. It was filled with local families
enjoying a Saturday night get-together of
traditional, local dishes. And the portions
were enormous! The Pozole Pollo, a rich
Mexican broth made with chicken, chili,
onion, cumin, garlic, and cabbage, was
absolutely delicious. The Tamales Rajas,
corn dough filled with meat, beans, roasted
peppers, and cheese, was thick and hearty,
and the large cup of Horchata, a creamy
sweet rice drink flavored with cinnamon,
was certainly more than enough to complete
the meal.
After dinner, a 'callejoneada' took place in
the square outside the Mercado. This traditional
event features a group of musicians
walking around, singing, telling stories, and
interacting with a giant paper statue.
The following day, food again was the focus
as we journeyed to Compostela, another
Magic Town. In Santa Maria del Oro, we
pulled into a packed parking lot to enjoy
Birria at La Sierra. Birria is a Nayarit dish
that consists of stewed meats (goat, beef, or
lamb). We ordered the 'sampler' dish, which
also included chorizo, chicken, and pork.
The long lineup moved pretty quickly. And
while waiting, guests visited the souvenir
stand, purchased camote (sweet potato
cooked in sugar), visited the fire pit to take
in the aroma of the meats grilling on long
metal skewers, wandered around the
restaurant to chat with the friendly, smiling
staff, and sang along with the walk-around
singer-guitar-player (Mariachi also originated
in Nayarit).
After being seated, tortillas with salsa,
onions, and local cheese were served, and
then when the steaming platter of Birria
arrived, and it was make-your-own taco
time. The food was simply delicious!
After a few short afternoon stops at La
Laguna, the Crater Lake, and the historic
downtown area of Compostela, we followed
the Autopista 2 hours back to Nuevo
Nayarit.
In a chat with Juan Enrique Suárez Del Real
Tostado, Nayarit's Minister of Tourism, he
described the state as "the jewel of Mexico".
Suárez listed volcanoes, waterfalls, beaches,
migratory birds, culture, gastronomy, and
Magic Towns, concluding, "You put all these
things together, and you have Nayarit".
Interacting with 'the other side' of Nayarit
was an energizing, colorful, photogenic,
delicious, and meaningful travel experience.
It certainly provided a great reason to
return!
www.visitnayarit.com
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World Traveler Spring 2023