Romeing Magazine - August 2023

www.romeing.it 

THIS ISSUE 

THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO AUGUST IN ROME 

BEST BEACHES NEAR THE CITY 

ISLAND ESCAPES 

UNDERGROUND ROME 

YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO ROME’S CULTURAL SCENE, EVENTS, AND LIFESTYLE 

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AUGUST 2023

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CONTENTS 

n. 08 | year 13 | AUGUST 2023 

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AUGUST 3, 6, 8, 10 - 9.00pm 

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AUGUST IN ROME 

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FEATURES 

04 GUIDE TO AUGUST IN ROME 

26 MUST SEE: THIS IS WONDERLAND 

28 WEEKEND GETAWAY: ISLANDS ESCAPE 

REVIEWS 

32 EATING 

34 ROOFTOP 

37 GELATO 

EVENTS 

38 BEST OF 

42 OUTDOOR CINEMAS 

44 SAGRE AROUND ROME 

46 MUSIC 

48 ART&CULT 

50 THIS MONTH IN MUSEUMS 

#ROMEING 

ROMEING FLORENCE 

54 YAN PEI-MING’S PAINTING STORIES 

TOURS, EXPERIENCES AND AIRPORT TRANSFERS: 

WWW.ROMEING.IT/SHOP 

operaroma.it


Your guide to the 

Eternal City’s hottest season 

Having plans for Ferragosto is as important 

to Italians as making New Year’s Eve plans – 

probably more. And for tourists, the question 

of ‘what to do for Ferragosto’ is just as 

important. 

If you’re visiting Rome during August, not 

only will you be here to luxuriate in some 

of the hottest weather, but you’ll be visiting 

at a time when many Italians leave for their 

summer holidays or simply take a few days 

to get out of the city. 


have excellent plans in place to enjoy your 

Ferragosto in the Eternal City. 

And to avoid long queues for Rome’s sites 

or to make sure you don’t miss out on any 

activities, don’t forget to book your tickets in 

advance! From the restaurants and summer 

bars that are open all through August, to 

cool underground sites to beat the heat and 

amazing beaches near Rome, we’ve got 

you covered with our full guide on how to 

experience the Eternal City in August. 

August 15 is the official date for the 

nationwide holiday of Ferragosto but 

throughout the month of August many 

destinations, sites and restaurants are 

closed, so as a tourist, you too need to 

But don’t move too quickly! The hot weather 

of August is the perfect excuse to saunter 

along and make a real holiday of it. 

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AUGUST 2023 AUGUST 2023

August in Rome: 

Restaurants 

August is a month in which it isn’t as easy to choose a restaurant at random, due to 

the many closures as locals leave for their holidays, so it pays to have a few ideas 

up your t-shirt sleeve. 

Baja 

Lungotevere Arnaldo da Brescia (Popolo) 

Daily 10am – 1am (till 2am on weekends) 

bajaroma.it 

If you are after something on the unconventional side, 

look no further than Baja. A boat, a restaurant, and a 

cocktail bar all wrapped up in one, Baja floats on the 

Tiber River, and its sought after location makes for an 

exotic and luxurious dinner. Set sail on a mini-vacation 

from Rome, while you sip expertly mixed cocktails and nosh 

on Italian cuisine. 

Vivi Bistrot 

Via Vitellia, 102 

(Villa Pamphilj) 

Daily 8am-11pm 

vivibistrot.com 

If you love nature and want to swap the bustling city 

for a serene park, then take a visit to Villa Pamphili, 

home to Vivi Bistrot. Nestled amongst sloping hills and 

lush trees, Vivi offers a terrific American-style brunch. 

The bistrot will also prepare a picnic for two in an oldfashioned 

wicker basket, letting you decide where exactly on 

the park’s grounds you’d like to lunch. 

AUGUST IN ROME: RESTAURANTS 

Il Marchese 

Via di Ripetta, 162 (centro storico) 

Daily 12pm - 1am 

ilmarcheseroma.it 

Step inside Europe’s first amaro bar that also doubles as a 

Roman trattoria. Enjoy Chef Daniele Roppo’s Roman dishes 

and fresh homemade pasta paired with great cocktails. The 

must order? La carbonara del Marchese: the guanciale is 

crispy, the pasta homemade and al dente, and the sauce creamy 

to the point. 

Ginger Sapori e Salute 

Via Borgognona 43-46 (Via del Corso) 

Piazza Sant’Eustachio, 54-55 (Pantheon) 

Daily 8am – 11pm 

gingersaporiesalute.com 

With two locations, Ginger is a solid healthy option while 

cruising the centro storico. Especially great vegetarian and 

vegan options, this is a location you’ll want to try if you’re looking 

for big salads, rich soups, and healthy beverages to accompany 

your meal. 

Montebello Pizza & Barbecue 

Via di Montebello, 130 (Termini/Repubblica) 

Mon-Fri: 12am – 3pm | 7pm-1am; Sat: 7pm-1am 

montebelloroma.it 

If you are looking for a menu that pleases different tastes, 

at Montebello Pizza & Barbecue you are in safe hands. 

Located at walking distance from Termini station, the 

restaurant proposes a wide range of quality food, from the soft 

dough of pizza to a lavish barbecue inspired by the national and 

international traditions. 

FOR MORE RESTAURANTS OPEN IN AUGUST, 

READ OUR EATING SECTION 

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AUGUST 2023 AUGUST 2023 

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Bars 

We have rounded up the best bars to enjoy those warm summer evenings. From 

aperitivo to after dinner drinks, here are 5 bars to keep on your radar in August. 

Balagan 

Via Torre Salaria, 5 (Villa Ada) 

Wed – Sat from 6pm to 2am. Sun 12:30pm-1am 

balaganroma.com 

Since the beginning of May, Rome has gained a new 

establishment: Balagan. Spanning approximately ten 

thousand square meters between Villa Ada and the Parioli 

area, Balagan is a cocktail bar and events space, an ideal 

venue for evenings with friends and concerts in one of the greenest 

areas of the capital, dominated by the charming Torre Salaria. The 

cuisine is also excellent, rich and varied, with an emphasis on grills 

and BBQs. 

Testaccio Estate 

Città dell’Altra Economica, L.go Dino Frisullo 

Open daily, 7pm – 2am 

TestaccioEstate 

The Città dell’Altra Economia transforms into an interactive hub, 

brimming with food, music, projections, shows, and activities. 

The revamped former slaughterhouse locations warmly welcome 

visitors to an exciting plastic-free, summer-long event: Testaccio 

Estate. With a focus on sustainability, delicious cuisine, and social 

responsibility, Testaccio Estate offers enjoyment and participation for all. 

Naos 

Via Torrita Tiberina, 6 (Ponte Milvio) 

Tue – Sun 6pm-3-4am 

naos.com 

Naos is a contemporary Greek restaurant and concept space 

that promotes design, gastronomy, art, and music. It is a most 

exclusive venue in the capital, where you can enjoy an intimate 

or friendly aperitif with live music and background music curated 

by exceptional DJs. 

FOR MORE BARS 

CHECK OUT OUR DRINKING SECTIONS 

AUGUST IN ROME: BARS 

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The Magick Bar 

Lungotevere Guglielmo Oberdam, 2 (Tiber Riverside) 

Daily, 6pm – 2am 

themagickbar 

Perched up alongside the Lungotevere, overlooking the river 

bend is a magical place, the perfect escape from the hot summer 

heat and sometimes chaotic city. The Magick Bar is like day 

and night. One side is focused on food and flavor, the other side 

concentrates on sounds and music - both serving some stellar drinks. 

The menu is eclectic and inspired by the chef’s love of travel. There is a 

DJ set every night of the week and special nights with international DJs. 

Terrazza Mirador 

Via del Gianicolo, 3 (Prati) 

Mon – Sun from 7pm 

terrazzamirador 

Terrazza Mirador, located on the slopes of the Gianicolo Hill, is a 

true Balearic-Mediterranean Garden, ideal for escaping the city’s 

chaos. Overlooking Castel Sant’Angelo and the Tiber River, it is 

the perfect location in the summer. Try the fantastic signature 

drinks crafted by the bartenders and enjoy the culinary creations of 

Japanese chef Koji Nakai, whose dishes uniquely combine traditional 

Japanese flavors with fusion elements.


Rooftops 

Looking to spend a balmy evening doing aperitivo or dinner with a panoramic 

view over the city? Here are our favourite rooftop bars with a view in Rome for 

summer… 

Terrazza Les Etoiles 

Via dei Bastioni 1 (Prati) 

Bar: 5.00pm – 1am; restaurant: 7.30pm – 10.30pm; 

12.30pm – 3pm (only weekend) 

terrazzalesetoiles.com 

AUGUST IN ROME: ROOFTOPS 

Mùn – Rooftop Cocktail Bar 

Piazza dell’Esquilino, 1 (Monti) 

Mon-Sun 5.30pm-12.00am 

dtromemonti.com 

The Mùn Rooftop is a dual space cocktail lounge bar and 

rooftop on the 8th floor of DoubleTree by Hilton Rome Monti 

that transports guests to sky level, making the stars and moon 

seem right at your fingertips. The panoramic views showcase 

some of Rome’s most beautifully iconic places and sites, from 

overlooking the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore to admiring Gianicolo 

Hill and the industrial Gasometro di Roma from a distance. 

47 Circus Roof Garden 

Via Luigi Petroselli, 47 (Circo Massimo) 

12pm – 12.30am 

circusroofgarden.com 

Les Etoiles Rooftop Cocktail Bar offers a truly spectacular 

panoramic view of Rome encompassing 360° of terracotta 

rooftops and some of the city’s most impressive monuments. 

The view takes in the best view we’ve ever seen of the facade 

and dome of St. Peter’s Basilica. 

Sky Garden Organics Pool 

terrace 

Via di San Basilio, 15 (Via Veneto) 

Wednesday to Sunday, 7.30pm to midnight 

+39.3342532673 

Head to the 6th floor of the Aleph Hotel near the Trevi 

Fountain to get scenic views overlooking the city. Not only 

does this rooftop terrace have a restaurant and a separate bar/ 

lounge area, it also has a pool for those hot summer months! Enjoy 

a beautiful Roman sunset or stay for a pool party filled with music, food/ 

drinks, and good company. 

From the Jewish Quarter to Circo Massimo, 47 Circus Roof 

Garden offers sensational views of Rome. Enjoy an aperitivo 

or dinner, take in the unparalleled views of Forum Boario and 

Piazza della Bocca della Verità, and watch the city illuminate 

during the evening. 

Singer Palace Hotel Rooftop 

Via Alessandro Specchi, 10 (Centro Storico) 

Lunch 12.30pm – 2.45pm; Dinner 7pm – 10.45pm; 

Jim’s Bar 12pm – 12am 

singerpalacehotel.com 

The Singer rooftop is an oasis with an unbelievable view, 

allowing its guests to enjoy a bird’s eye view of the Roman 

rooftops and Via del Corso just a stone’s throw away from the 

Trevi Fountain. Whether you choose to visit the rooftop for lunch, 

cocktail hour, dinner, or drinks, Singer staff will pamper you all the 

way through. 

SEE MORE AT 

ROMEING.IT/THE-SEXIEST-ROOFTOPS-IN-ROME/ 

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AUGUST IN ROME: EXPLORE ROME’S UNDERGROUND SITES 


Explore Rome’s Underground Sites 

With soaring temperatures this summer there is no place cooler to hide than in the 

secret world beneath the streets of Rome. Explore the catacombs and crypts of the 

city’s most significant monuments, and unearth some of Rome’s best kept treasures. 

Basilica di San Clemente 

Via Labicana, 95 

Mon-Sat: 9am-12.30pm & 2pm-6pm; Sun 12pm-6pm 

Entry fee: €5-10 

Often overlooked by the nearby Colosseum, San Clemente is a 

hidden gem that is definitely worth a visit. This three-tiered 

complex consists of an 11th century Basilica that was built on top of 

the pre-existing 4th century ”domus ecclesiae” (a secretive meeting room for early Christian 

worshippers) of martyr San Clemente. Go deeper under the Church and you’ll find a vault from 

the 3rd century AD. This Mitharic sanctuary consists of stone benches, surrounding an altar 

that was used during Mitharic rituals, a mystery cult of Persian origin. 

Colosseum Underground 

Piazza del Colosseo, 1 

Daily, 9am-7.15pm 

Entry fee: €24 

(Full Experience Undergrounds and Arena ticket) 

Underneath the world’s largest amphitheatre lie the tunnels 

and chambers which hosted the mechanisms that made the 

spectacular battles of the Colosseum possible. The recently 

discovered hypogeum, from the Greek word for “underground”, is a 

labyrinth of rings that emulate the oval shape of the arena. Behind the scenes, a 

vertical winch called a capstan was pushed by slaves to elevate lions, crocodiles 

and bears into the arena. Walk in the footsteps of gladiators, with a tour group that 

explores the underworld of the Colosseum. 

Catacombs of 

San Callisto 

Via Appia Antica, 110/126 

Tue – Mon 9am-12pm, 2-5pm 

Entry fee €7-10 

Possibly Rome’s most famous catacomb, 

this site extends almost 20 km and was 

the burial place of more than 10 martyrs 

and 16 popes. As the official catacombs 

of the Roman Church, the crypt of the 

popes was known as “the little Vatican” 

and you can still see the Greek markings 

“MPT” on two of them for “martyr.” You 

can also see burial place of Saint Cecilia, 

the patron saint of music, buried here 

for five centuries until her remains were 

transferred to a church in Trastevere. 

Domitilla 

Catacombs 

Via delle Sette Chiese, 282 

Mon, Wed-Sun 9am-12pm, 2pm-5pm 

Entry fee €7-10 

Rome has an array of underground tombs, 

built as cemeteries for the Christian 

and Catholic communities between the 

2nd – 9th centuries AD. The Domitilla 

Catacombs are the oldest burial networks 

in the city and the only site to house real 

ancient bones. The maze of underground 

caves and vaults spread over three levels, 

extending 30 meters into the ground and 

reaching a total length of 17 km. Access 

to the passageways is through a 4th 

century subterranean basilica, which leads 

to a fascinating 2nd century fresco of The 

Last Supper. 

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AUGUST IN ROME: EXPLORE ROME’S UNDERGROUND SITES 

GET YOUR TICKET 

Palazzo 

Valentini 

via Foro Traiano, 85 

10am-7pm (closed on Tuesday) 

Entry fee: €8-12 

Nestled between the great roundabout 

of Piazza Venezia and the Trajan Forum, 

you will find Palazzo Valentini. Underneath 

this 16th century palace lie the Domus 

Romane, the archeological remains of 

homes belonging to the wealthy families 

of Imperial Rome. Teams of experts 

excavated through layers of Rome’s 

rich history, and created this stunning 

multimedia museum in 2010. The tour of 

the Domus Romane is a mix of history and 

wonder: exquisite relics of finely detailed 

mosaic floors to colossal marble columns, 

and vast kitchens to private saunas are 

displayed beneath your feet. 

Hadrian’s Crypt 

(Mouth of Truth) 

Piazza Bocca della Verità, 18 

Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm, 3pm-5.30pm; 

Sun 12pm – 5.30pm 

Free entry 

Escape the long line of visitors queuing 

up to put their hand in The Mouth of 

Truth by exploring Pope Hadrian’s Crypt. 

The basilica shaped crypt is located 

underneath Santa Maria in the Cosmedin 

Church, in Piazza Bocca della Verità. It was 

constructed in the 8th century to store the 

relics taken from the catacombs by Pope 

Adrian I. This small underground site is 

definitely worth a visit. There is no entry 

fee but a donation is suggested. 

The Crypt of the 

Capuchin Friars 

Via Vittorio Veneto, 27 

Daily, 10am-7pm 

Entry fee: €7,5 - 10 

What you are we were; what we are you 

will be” is the spooky reminder of the 

inevitability of life that greets visitors upon 

entering the Crypt. By far the eeriest site 

in Rome, this Crypt is made up of the 

bones of 4,000 Capuchin monks. After 

visiting the convent and museum, walk 

towards the dimly lit hallway, where a 

multitude of messages are conveyed. This 

spooky corner of the city is the ultimate 

underground experience. 

GET YOUR TICKETS TO 

THE CAPUCHIN FRIARS 

BY SCANNING 

OUR QR CODE WITH 

YOUR PHONE 

n 

SCAN ME 

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AUGUST IN ROME: STAY COOL IN ROME’S PARKS 


Stay Cool in Rome’s Parks 

Rome is a big, busy city and while the streets will be quieter in August, it’s also a 

great time to really relax under the shade in parks. Here are some of our favorites: 

Parco degli Acquedotti 

Via Lemonia, 256 

The park, named after the ruins of ancient Roman 

aqueducts that litter the space, lies between Via Appia 

and Via Tuscolana,. If you’re a fan of Italian cinema, you 

recognize it from films like Fellini’s La Dolce Vita or the 

Oscar-winning The Great Beauty, where it was featured 

prominently. It has a rustic, agricultural air to it, and it is still 

used for grazing sheep and growing crops. The park is visited 

by everyone, whether they be runners, readers, musicians, or dog 

walkers. 

Villa Borghese 

Entrances at Porta Pinciana, 

Piazzale Flaminio, 

Viale delle Belle Arti, Via Raimondi and Via 

Mercadante 

The most famous of the Roman parks, the Villa 

Borghese gardens span from Piazza del Popolo to Via 

Veneto, and can be reached at the top of the Spanish 

Steps. Here, you can rent bikes, electric scooters, ecocars 

or rowboats. There’s also a lake with a temple dedicated 

to Esculapio. Got little ones in tow? Take your children to the Bioparco Zoo 

or visit the magnificent Galleria Borghese. 

SEE MORE AT 

1 ROMEING.IT/GARDENS-AND-PARKS-IN-ROME 

Villa doria pamphili 

Entrances: Via di S.Pancrazio, Via Aurelia Antica, 

Via Leone XII, Largo M. Luther King, Via Vitellia, 

Via della Nocetta 

Villa Doria Pamphili takes the latter part of its name 

from the aristocratic Pamphili family, whose members 

it housed up until the 18th century. When the Pamphilis 

died out, the villa was passed over to the Dorias, from 

whom it takes the middle part of its name. Today, it holds 

the distinction of being the city’s largest landscaped public 

park. A stunning villa completed in 1648, called Casino del Bel 

Respiro, is the centerpiece of the grounds. 

Villa Ada 

Via Salaria, 275 

A tranquil park with a bike rental service, winding 

paths, a lake, a cafe, and an annual live music 

festival running in the month of July, called Roma 

Incontra Il Mondo. Villa Ada also holds the title of 

Rome’s second largest park, with 450 acres, and is 

rich in flora and fauna: cypresses, pines, dwarf palm 

trees, turtles, and swans flourish here. One of the 

most loved and visited parks of Romans. 

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AUGUST IN ROME: SWIMMING POOLS 


Swimming Pools 

Often hidden, but never far from the beaten track, these locations can transform an 

exhausting afternoon into a refreshing oasis. 

Rome Cavalieri – Waldorf 

Astoria Hotels & Resorts 

Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario) 

Day Price: Mon-Fri Adults €80, Children 6-11 

years €40; Sat – Sun & Bank Holidays Adults €150, 

Children 6-11 years €75 

Atop the highest hilltop of the Eternal City, the Rome Cavalieri offers a paradise of relaxation 

in a lush 15-acre private Mediterranean parkland. The three outdoor pools, of which one is 

designed for children, are served by the casual pool bar and offer stunning views of Rome 

as a backdrop. Let the sunshine gently soothe your soul while relaxing in the exclusive Rome 

Cavalieri Cabana: a peaceful haven where you will be pampered with refreshments and 

amenities available throughout the day. 

Grand Hotel Gianicolo 

Via delle Mura Gianicolensi, 107 (Gianicolo) 

Day Price: Mon – Fri €35, Sat – Sun & Bank Holidays 

€50 - grandhotelgianicolo.it 

Surrounded by lush tropical gardens, the pool is set in a 

spectacular atmosphere perfect for a getaway. During the 

day, cool off in the pool, or watch the sun set over Gianicolo 

hill overlooking Trastevere. At a mid-range price, this is a great 

place to have a wet lunch with friends or a drink after a hot day’s 

commute. It’s not possible to reserve, first come first served. 

A.Roma Lifestyle Hotel 

Via Giorgio Zoega, 59 (Gianicolense) 

Daily price: €35 (Mon-Fri), €50 (Sat-Sun) 

hotel-aroma.com/it/ 

Enjoy the pool, with ionized seawater, nestled in the 

beautiful park of this urban resort not far from the 

Vatican. Included in the spa admission, along with 

access to the pool, you will have access to a relaxation 

area equipped with comfortable wooden chaise lounges, a 

wellness corner buffet with herbal teas, flavored water, fruit/ 

biscuits, and the fitness center. 

Borgo Pallavicini Mori 

Via Tiberina, 571 

Day Price: Mon-Fri €80, Weekends €95, 

Children under 12 €60 (including sunbed 

and umbrella, light lunch with water and 

prosecco). 

Escape the hectic city and uncover the tranquil 

oasis of Borgo Pallavicini Mori’s pool. Tucked away 

in the countryside, and just a short 20-minute journey 

from the city center, this serene haven offers a peaceful 

and rejuvenating atmosphere, providing the ideal respite from 

the bustling urban life. Relax by the water’s edge, savor a refreshing 

drink, and feel your worries fade away or immerse yourself in the breathtaking 

beauty of the surrounding gardens while treating your taste buds to delectable local 

specialties for lunch. 

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AUGUST IN ROME: SWIMMING POOLS 

Belle Arti 

Via Flaminia, 158 (Flaminia) 

Day Price (8am - 8pm): 

Mon - Fri €20, Sat - Sun €30 

circolotennisbellearti.it/piscina 

An athletic pool with lanes, this spot is great for those with 

a more active approach to swimming. Nonetheless, the 

poolside, lined with chaise lounges, has plenty of space 

reserved for relaxation. Workout classes are offered as well 

and include things like acquagym and hydrobiking. Reservation 

required. 

ITALIAN LANGUAGE SCHOOL 

Officially authorized 

by the Italian Ministry of Education 

INTENSIVE AND 

SUPERINTENSIVE COURSES 

EXTENSIVE COURSES (PART TIME) 

Twice a week (18.00-19.30) 

CERTIFICATIONS 

Preparations courses for CILS and AIL 

certifications of Italian language 

The Club Piscina delle Rose 

Viale America, 20 (Eur) 

Day Price: €12/20 on weekends 

Half Day Price (from 2pm): €10/16 on weekends 

piscinadellerose.it 

For those who want to go for a real swim, the 

Olympic-sized outdoor pool is sure to satisfy your 

needs in this sports club. Why not combine a workout 

with a relaxing day under the sun? A more familyfriendly 

environment, and easily accessible with the Metro 

B line, Piscina Delle Rose is a bang for your buck. 

ONE TO ONE TUTORIALS 

ITALIAN CULTURE COURSES 

Art History, Cinema, Cooking 

BUSINESS AND PROFESSIONAL COURSES 

ACCOMODATION 

Host families 

Shared/private apartments 

Hotels/B&B 

SPORT AND LEISURE TIME 

Guided art history visits 

Field Trips 

Dinners 

Film evenings 

SEE MORE AT 

1 ROMEING.IT/SWIMMING-POOLS-ROME 

www.leonardo-rome.com 

www.scuolaleonardo.com 

rome@scuolaleonardo.com 

Join our Community 

20 ROMEING 

Piazza dell’Orologio, 7 

ROMEING 21 

AUGUST 2023 

T. 06.6889.2513 | F. 06.6821.9084 


AUGUST IN ROME: BEST BEACHES NEAR ROME 


Best Beaches near Rome 

Summer is a popular time to visit Rome, but the hot weather may be 

a bit too much for some tourists. Luckily, the Eternal City has plenty 

of nearby beaches to beat the summer heat and many of them can be 

reached by public transportation from Rome. 

See our recommendations and travel tips for the beaches close to Rome. 

01 Ostia 

02 Fregene 

05 

06 

04 

02 

01 

On summer weekends, the city virtually 

empties out as locals head to Ostia (the 

closest beach to Rome) for a little fun 

in the sun. While Ostia’s water isn’t the 

cleanest, its black sandy beaches packed 

with beach clubs (where you pay for a 

chair and umbrella) are plenty to attract 

the crowds. At night, up and down the 

lungomare the beach bars transform into 

discos. The most popular, Shilling features 

ubers of space where you can shake your 

thing on the dance floor or the sand all 

night long. 

During the ‘dolce vita’ days, the seaside town 

Fregene, famous for its grandeur villas, was 

once the hot spot for Rome’s fashionable 

Via Veneto crowd like Federico Fellini & 

Pier Paolo Pasolini. Although over the years 

Fregene has lost a little bit of its glitz and 

glamour, it still attracts the likes of Italian 

celebrities, footballers and hipsters looking for 

a cooler alternative to Ostia. By night, much 

like Ostia, Fregene becomes a hedonistic 

playground for partygoers. Among the most 

popular are Gilda on the Beach, Blu Fregene 

and Singita’s famous sunset aperitivos. 

03 

How to get there: 

Train (Roma-Lido) from Rome’s 

Ostiense (Porta San Paolo) Station to 

Ostia Lido 


Take the Metro A to the Cornelia stop 

(direction Battistini), then take the 

CoTral bus to Fregene. 

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From Termini take the train to 

Priverno-Fossanova and then a 

COTRAL bus to Sabaudia. All in all 

the journey will take around 1 hour 15 

minutes. 

04 

Sperlonga 

03 06 

Sabaudia (Circeo) 

Santa Severa 

Famously a blue flag area, this spacious and 

stunning coastline is predominantly made up 

of free beaches at which you simply pay for 

beach chairs and umbrellas. Despite having 

the odd restaurant here and there, the shores 

rarely gets crowded thanks to its vast stretches 

of sand. Also a keen spot for history buffs, the 

beach offers views of a grand defensive tower, 

the Torre Paola. A lake at the centre of the town 

sees many rowing teams and sailing boats from 

around the world flock to the area for training. 


Train from Termini or Roma San 

Pietro Station. The beach is a 20 

minute walk from the station. 

05 

Santa Marinella 

While hipsters head off to Ostia and 

Fregene for a little fun in the sun, local 

families and couples looking for a quieter 

spot to soak in some rays head over to the 

seaside town Santa Severa. You can get 

to Santa Savera from either Termini train 

station and it’ll take you an hour or from 

San Pietro train station in just 40 minutes. 

Here, the beach is a golden brown and the 

water tends to be a lot cleaner. You’ll find 

windsurfers and plenty of families riding 

their bikes along the lungomare where a 

beautiful castle dating back to Etruscan 

times dominates the panorama. 

If you’re looking for more of a relaxing 

Sperlonga is a dream seaside town south 

day the beach far away from all of the 

of Rome, with a sea as tranquil and 

hubbub and crowds, then the seaside 

blue as you will find in the Lazio area, a 

town of Santa Marinella is definitely your 

long stretch of white sandy beach and 

spot. Just after you’ve hopped off the train 

a picturesque whitewash hilltop town. 

(which takes about 40 minutes from San 

With many seafood restaurants and little 

Pietro Station), the beach is only a fiveminute 

antiquarian shops and unforgettable views 

walk from the station. Like Santa 

of the cliff edged bay, it is a favourite 

Severa, the beaches are golden brown and 

among Romans who return to it again and 

the water is great for swimming. Santa 

again. 


Marinella also has its own castle, Castello How to get there: 

Train from Termini to the Fondi- 

Odescalchi located near the touristic port Train from Termini or Roma San 

Sperlonga station and then a bus to 

where a nice passeggiata at sunset is Pietro Station. The beach is just ten 

Sperlonga. 

definitely a must! For those looking for a minute walk from the station. 

little music and dancing, Bar Maiorca is 

24 

the place to be. 

ROMEING 

ROMEING 


25

THIS IS WONDERLAND - AN IMMERSIVE THEME PARK AT THE EUR DISTRICT 

x 

MUSTSEE 

This is Wonderland 

An immersive theme park 

at the EUR district 

p 

Paola Morotti 

Laghetto dell’Eur - Passeggiata del Giappone 

Opening hours: Daily, from 7pm to 2am 

Entry fee: from €10 

Contact: thisiswonderland.world 

A dreamy walk into Alice’s fairytale 

New lights shine in Rome this summer thanks to the latest initiative organized by Lux Eventi at 

the scenic EUR lake area. 

Easily reachable with a direct train from Rome Termini, for the first time, This is Wonderland 

will enliven the EUR garden with an immersive journey which traces and transcends the 

boundaries of exhibition art and brings the allure of light to the stage. From 06 July to 17 

September, the park will remain open from 7 p.m. to 2 a.m. to transform itself into a live fairy 

tale and represent one of the most beautiful classics of literature: Alice in Wonderland. 

The set is simply impressive: 40.000 sqm of 

park lighten up by scenic art, installations, 

choreographies, music and lights that will 

entertain the visitors and encourage them to 

take an active part into the show. Although 

a couple of maps are scattered through the 

park, getting lost in the exhibition is easy 

and perhaps it is exactly what an immersive 

experience means. Losing sense of time and 

space and, if you feel like having fun, Alice 

in Wonderland’s characters such as the Mad 

Hatter and the White Rabbit, do a wonderful 

job in involving the park’s visitors in an 

illusion where the borders between reality 

and fantasy start to blur. 

Visitors can admire more than 18 stations 

arranged with shining flowery artworks and 

magic installations and have the opportunity 

to enjoy performances of international artists 

telling Alice’s story in the most creative 

ways. 

At This is Wonderland, children and adults 

can explore and admire the world of 

fantasy, swinging to the rhythm of music or 

appreciating shiny reflections upon mirrors. 

Visiting the Show area, next to the Mad 

Hatter swings, is almost mandatory. The 

evening is animated by fun comic standups 

and impressive dance and theatre 

performances throughout the evening – it 

can be great entertainment for children but 

adults can also enjoy the nearby bar area 

and chill out in the amphitheatre, surrounded 

by Mediterranean vegetation and the view 

over the EUR district. 

Photo opportunities can be memorable at 

the Cards’ Labyrinth, while playing chess 

with the Queen of Hearts or laying down on 

fluffy cushions at the exclusive Shisha Bar 

surrounded by an arabesque atmosphere. 

And If, after all the walking and playing, you 

feel like eating something, self-serving food 

stalls can be found near the Shisha Bar or 

near the Show area. From pizza to typical 

Sicilian specialities or hot dogs, prices are 

reasonable and visitors can sit comfortably 

on the nearby tables enjoying the festive 

atmosphere before it gets too crowded – 

best chances of finding a table and enjoying 

a stunning sunset are probably around 8 / 

8:30pm. 

26 ROMEING 

ROMEING 27 


With the weather warming up, holidaymakers of all sorts are flocking to the beaches on the 

fringes of Italy. But for those of you who want to truly experience a different flavour and 

escape the hustle and bustle of Rome, claim an island as your vacation spot. Whatever your 

pick, azure waters and picturesque seaside towns await you. 

Elba 

It is hard to believe that this island was once 

the exile of one Napoleon Bonaparte in 1814. 

And although its reputation comes from this 

particular event in its past, this island midway 

between Corsica and the Italian coast is far 

from a banishment site. The island is rich with 

culture in the alleyways of Portoferraio where 

you can see the famed twinset forts Forte Stella 

and Forte Falcone. It is also home to interesting 

hiking trails, but the most stunning viewing 

point is Monte Capanne which can be accessed 

via a cable car that takes you to the summit 

at 1018 m. As for beaches, the popular Cavoli 

beach with coarse granite sand and clear blue 

water is a family-friendly favourite. 

Z 

Weekend Getaway 


p 


Take the train to Piombino Marittima 

and from there the ferry service to Elba. 

Alia El Saady 

Ischia 

The largest island in the gulf of Naples, Ischia is 

known for its rejuvenating spa treatments. This 

island (once a hotbed of volcanic ruptions) is now 

dormant but is frequented by travellers who seek 

the curative benefits of the natural hot springs of 

Sorgeto and the volcanic mud in the Fumaroles of 

Sant’Angel. The island is also home to the Nitrodi 

hot springs, a spa that is known for its healing, 

mineral rich waters rich that date back to Ancient 

Roman times. One of the sights worth seeing on 

the isle is Castello Aragonese in Ischia Ponte, a 

fortress built in 1433 to defend the coastline whose 

tower was said to house the famous Michelangelo. 

Z 


Take the train to Naples. From either its 

ports there is a ferry service available 

for Ischia. 

Z 


Take the Train to Anzio or Formia. 

From the port, there’s a ferry service 

is available for Ponza. 

Capri 

The glamour of the island of Capri has made it 

a celebrity hotspot. The island’s charm is found 

not only in the VIPs that land on its shores but 

in the beauty of its pastel and white coloured 

houses that line the steep uphill climb of its 

streets. The island is also great for anyone 

hoping to take a dip in the deep blue turquoise 

waters, whether you choose to swim by the 

Faro lighthouse or take a rowboat out to the 

famed Grotta Azzurra. Capri is also littered with 

stores and restaurants that were frequented 

by the stars. La Parisienne (Piazza Umberto, 

I) established in 1906 is famous for its Capri 

pants purchased by Audrey Hepburn in the 60’s. 

And for those more interested in cuisine, the 

terrace restaurant of Il Geranio (Viale Giacomo 

Matteoti, 8) will be sure to please with its 

extraordinary view of the Isole di Faraglioni. 


Ponza 

South of Rome, this island is a beautiful 

combination of lively island life with isolated 

little grottos and beaches for those times when 

you want to truly disengage from the world. The 

main drag or marina is where you will spend 

most of your time either dining on seafood in 

the restaurants around Piazza Carlo Pisacane 

or grabbing an aperitivo at the ever-popular Bar 

Tripoli. Ponza is also excellent for diving thanks 

to its labyrinthine grottos, while Le Piscine 

Naturali in the bay of Cala Feola is where you 

will find gravel beaches and crystal clear water 

perfect for when you want to go for a swim. Also 

available on the isle are rental scooters where 

you can navigate through Ponza’s long winding 

roads and take in the breathtaking landscape. 

And for those hoping to explore other isles, 

check out the historic isle of Ventotene or wild 

Palmarola, both a short boat trip away. 

Z 


Take the train to Naples, and from 

either of its ports there is a ferry 

service available for Capri. 

28 ROMEING 

ROMEING 29 



Procida 

If you’re looking for a local gem on the 

Mediterranean, this colorful island characterized 

by houses splashed with shades from pink and 

blue to green and yellow is the ultimate retreat. 

Procida is the smallest of the islands of the Bay 

of Naples, but surely not the least beautiful. 

In comparison to the nearby Ischia and Capri, 

Procida gets much less foreigners and it’s 

mostly a Neapolitan’s secret. But don’t expect 

a vast coastline, the island is so small, walking 

is all you need to get anywhere you like. And 

if you’re up for exploring beach coves, rent 

one of the small gozzos in the port for the day. 

The most famous place to soak under the sun 

is the beach of Marina Chiaiolella, an ancient 

fishermen’s village that has maintained its 

original charm. Here you’ll find beach facilities 

from sunbeds to restaurants. After a long day 

at the beach, a stroll around Terra Murata – 

Procida’s historic center – is a must! 

Z 


Take the train to Naples, and from 

either of its ports there is a ferry service 

available for Procida. 

Giglio 

There’s a small slice of heaven just off the Tuscan 

coast in the Tyrrhenian Sea. Picture pristine 

beaches with crystal clear waters and pebbly 

shorelines paired with unforgettable sunsets 

and a true Italian-style vibe. It’s called Giglio 

Island, and it’s just a short ferry ride from the 

famous Argentario. If you’re into scuba diving and 

snorkeling, this island is just the place for you. It’s 

packed with sea life and vegetation underwater, 

and covered in Mediterranean vegetation inland. 

To immerse yourself in the island vibe, head to the 

port, almost resembling a picturesque village with 

its two lighthouses and Torre Saracena. This is 

where bars, restaurants and shops are open till late 

at night. For the best beaches, don’t miss out on 

the Cannelle, Caldane and Arenella. 

Z 


Take the train to Orbetello – Argentario 

and then the ferry to Giglio from Porto 

Santo Stefano. 

24/7 Emergencies 

Call center: (+ 39) 3456 122 582 

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL SERVICES 

24/7 Assistance 

Emergency room 

House-call / hotel visits 

On-site interpreters 

Ambulance services 

Quick appointments 

Specialists 

Dental services 

Physiotherapists 

Phychologists and counselors 

Management and/or direct billing to your insurance company 

24/7 Call Center (+39) 3456 122 582 

30 ROMEING 

e-mail: sagradafamilia@tcassistance.com 

ROMEING 31 

AUGUST 2023 App: IMSCare 

ospedalecristore@internationalcarerome.com 


EATING 

EATING 

IL MARCHESE 

Via di Ripetta, 162 (Centro Storico) 

Daily 12am – 11pm 

06.90218872 

ilmarcheseroma.it 

ilmarcheseroma 

Il Marchese unites the best of two worlds: the elegance of 

a French bar with salon accents and intricate chandeliers 

within the coziness of a Roman trattoria. Dine directly at 

the kitchen counter or in one of the wooden tables while 

enjoying Chef’s Roman dishes and homemade pasta. 

What to order? With Chef Daniele Roppo, you’re sure 

to have a fantastic dining experience. Authentic cuisine 

that has never heard of a ‘half-portion’, delicious meat 

and seafood specialities, and main courses marinated in 

distilled and bitter bases is what awaits you. 

As a starter we suggest the fried green tomato with 

buffalo mozzarella and basil mayonnaise. So yummy! 

For mains you can try the Linguine con ricciola, pesto 

di rucola e limone candito or always stick with the well 

loved classic, the iconic La carbonara del Marchese. The 

guanciale is crispy, the pasta is homemade and al dente, 

and the sauce perfectly creamy. Then try the galletto alla diavola or the Roman-style veal fillet 

topped with prosciutto and sage. If you fancy fish, the Tonno rosso alla cacciatora or the sweet 

and sour cod fish served with raspberries and vegetables in season. 

Il Marchese is a delightful place that is not only culinary heaven but quenches your thirst. It 

doubles as a lovely cocktail bar, and the first Amaro Bar of Europe - its menu has more than 

six hundred kinds of bitters. Either post dinner, or as an aperitivo, enjoy one of their signature 

drinks, all a blend of carefully selected fine ingredients with various textures and extraordinary 

compositions of aromas and tastes - each of them unique, each worth every sip. 

UNIQUE AL PALATINO GARDEN RESTAURANT 

Via di San Teodoro, 48 (Palatine) 

06.69921077 

Restaurant: daily 12.30pm-3pm, 7pm-11pm 

Garden: daily 8am-12am 

uniquealpalatino 

alpalatinoristorante.it 

In front of Palatine Hill and inside 400 years of history 

lies Unique al Palatino Garden Restaurant – the lush 

outdoor gourmet restaurant of the four-star Kolbe 

Hotel. Step into this garden restaurant to immerse 

yourself in a dreamlike atmosphere amidst blossoming 

flowers and ancient olive trees and citrus trees. The 

restaurant’s garden is everything one could wish for; 

it’s an oasis of peace to indulge in breakfast, lunch 

and dinner tucked away from the hustle and bustle of 

the city.Unique al Palatino Garden Restaurant offers 

traditional Italian cuisine with a contemporary twist 

using innovative cooking techniques. Ingredients are 

fresh and the produce is exclusively Italian for an 

emotional experience around the Italian territory. Order 

the delicate lemon scented tagliolini with shrimps 

and ginger, or the flavor-packed buffalo mozzarella 

ravioli with truffled vegetables and pecorino cheese. Just remember to leave some space for 

desserts! From the ricotta cheese mousse with citrus, cherry morello and almond crispy to the 

dark chocolate lava cake with pear and rum sauce, you’re in for a special treat. The superb 

wine list and the excellent service will also contribute to an incredible experience. And within 

a stone’s throw away from Circo Massimo and the Jewish Quarter, Unique al Palatino Garden 

Restaurant is the perfect place for a relaxing lunch or a romantic candlelit evening. 

32 ROMEING 

ROMEING 33 


T 

ROOFTOP 

T 

ROOFTOP 

I SOFÀ BAR RESTAURANT & ROOF TERRACE 

LOCAL ITALIAN CUISINE ON VIA GIULIA 

Via Giulia, 62 (Centro Storico) 

Opening Times: breakfast 7am-11am; Bar 12pm-12am; 

Lunch a selection of snacks available at the bar; dinner 7pm-10pm 

+39 06.68661846 

isofa.it 

Situated in the 5 star luxury Hotel Indigo Rome – St 

George, on one of Rome’s most historical and creative 

streets, Via Giulia, I Sofà Bar Restaurant & Roof Terrace 

provides a gastronomic treat for guests and visitors alike. 

Operating under the culinary hands of Chef Biagio Maiuri, 

the central maxim of I Sofà Bar Restaurant & Roof Terrace 

is to give patrons an authentically Italian experience by 

serving a mix of locally and regionally sourced products. 

From local wines, to cheeses, and cured meats, I Sofà 

Bar Restaurant & Roof Terrace not only gives customers a 

chance to explore all of the exquisite tastes and flavours 

of local Italian cuisine, but in doing so, it also supports 

local producers and artisans. 

I Sofà Bar Restaurant & Roof Terrace skillfully blends 

traditional Mediterranean flavours with more modern 

trends and interpretations. Roman classics such as 

Rigatoni all’Amatriciana and Coffee Tiramisù with Osvego 

Gentilini biscuits are served alongside more international treats as a selection of sandwiches 

and gourmet burgers. Acknowledging the changing seasons, diners can eat in different 

locations of the hotel, from the rooftop terrace (open during summer), to the inner courtyard, 

to the cosy internal dining rooms. To compliment this diversity, the menu also changes, 

offering a mix of produce and dishes specifically tailored to the time of year. 

TERRAZZA LES ETOILES 

PANORAMIC RESTAURANT AND ROOFTOP COCKTAIL BAR NEAR THE VATICAN 

Via dei Bastioni, 1 (Prati) 

Cocktail Bar & Aperitivo: everyday 5.30pm – 12am 

Lunch: Sun 12.30pm-3pm 

Restaurant: everyday 7.30pm-10.30pm 

Tel. +39.0668638163 

terrazzalesetoiles.com 

Les Etoiles Rooftop Cocktail Bar is the open rooftop terrace 

of the Hotel Atlante Star that offers a truly spectacular 

panoramic view of Rome encompassing three hundred and 

sixty degrees of terracotta rooftops and some of the city’s 

most impressive monuments. If you’re looking for a light 

lunch or a dinner, an aperitivo or an after dinner cocktail, you 

couldn’t find a location more romantic or luxurious. 

The view takes in Castel Sant’Angelo, the Vittorio Emanuele 

monument, the forested Gianicolo hill, Villa Borghese, the 

spidery gazometro, and the best view I’ve ever seen of the 

facade and dome of St. Peter’s Basilica. 

Relax on couches or under their spacious umbrellas and 

enjoy a cocktail alongside an array of delectable finger 

foods. Choose from a variety of cooked and raw food, 

marinated salmon, yummy club sandwiches, buffalo 

mozzarella, hamburgers, rich salads and more, all finished 

off with fresh fruit. 

The aperitif is served every day between 5pm and 9pm. There is a fixed formula at 45 euros 

which includes a drink (cocktail or glass of wine) accompanied by a selection of finger food, 

also available for vegans and celiacs. 

I suggest going in the evening so you can enjoy the cool breeze above the tumult of the city 

below, sip a cocktail and watch the sun’s last rays warm the ancient stones of the eternal city. 

34 ROMEING 

ROMEING 35 


T 

ROOFTOP 

GELATO 

ORGANICS SKY GARDEN ROMA 

Via di San Basilio, 15 (Via Veneto) 

Wed-Sun, 7.30pm to midnight 

+39 3342532673 

Located just a few minutes from Rome’s Trevi Fountain 

and the Spanish Steps, the 5-starred Aleph Rome Hotel 

(a member of the Hilton Curio Collection) not only offers 

the best of Italian hospitality but also provides a garden 

terrace open to anyone who wishes to taste spectacular 

drinks and tasty Italian finger food. 

And right on the rooftop, a brand new event has 

come to freshen up your Roman nights: until the end 

of the summer, Organics Sky Garden by Red Bull, 

public relations organized by Marc Cerafatti from 

RooftopLifeRome, is going to entertain guests from 

Wednesday to Saturday night with DJ set music, 

innovative cocktails and much more. Accompanied by the 

tunes of Art Director and Resident DJ Francesco Trizza 

and many other guest DJs, the Sky Garden is the perfect 

setting to relax at the end of your busy day or to start 

your night out. 

Sipping a cocktail on an exclusive rooftop terrace, right 

in the heart of the Eternal City might seem so unreal you 

may think you ended up in a movie set from “The Great 

Beauty” by Sorrentino. 

36 

ROMEING 


GELATO SAN LORENZO 

AUTHENTIC GELATO MADE IN-HOUSE WITH ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS 

Via Tiburtina, 2-6 (San Lorenzo) 

Via Stilicone, 147 (Tuscolana) 

Via delle Fornaci, 3 (San Pietro) 

Open daily, 11am-1am 

gelatosanlorenzo.com 

After you’ve fallen into enough traps of having to 

choose among the plastic containers of swirly heaps of 

unnaturally bright colors, Gelato San Lorenzo emerges like 

a breath of fresh air. 

Apart from the traditional spot in the San Lorenzo 

neighborhood, Gelato San Lorenzo is now also available 

in Piazza Vittorio, with its very own kiosk hosted by Gatsby 

Cafè. That’s not all… it’s also going international and 

opening a place in Madrid. 

Back to Rome, the owners are maintaining an endless 

flow of ice cream flavors made in-house everyday with all 

natural ingredients. Their main focus is to create a model 

of pure gelato, free of the added, unnatural substitutes 

that are often used to give gelato its taste, sweetness and 

consistency. Every flavor served at Gelato San Lorenzo 

is clear of food coloring, unnatural flavors and trans fats. 

Natural fibers are used instead to bring out the thick 

creaminess that one looks for in a good ice cream and 

25% less sugar is added to these already fruit, nut and 

honey-sweetened delights. The gelateria is very attentive 

to allergies and intolerances. It naturally also offers a few vegan options. Not up for a cone 

of gelato? There’s the stick gelato option you can choose from. They also offer smoothies, 

crepes, and organic yogurts.

AUGUST EVENTS 

ART&CULT | MOVIE | NIGHTLIFE | MUSIC | EXHIBITION | SPORT | TASTING 

EVENTS 

ART | MOVIE | NIGHTLIFE | MUSIC 

CARACALLA FESTIVAL 2023 

OPERA, DANCE, MUSIC 

Until August 10 

Baths of Caracalla 

Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 

operaroma.it 

There’s no better way to spend a balmy summer 

night in Rome than enjoying an opera, ballet or 

concert at the Baths of Caracalla. A cultural hub 

and vibrant social spot back in Ancient Rome, 

the Baths were the equivalent of a community 

day spa, where Romans would go to bathe and 

socialize. It was a place to entertain and to be 

entertained. Fast-forward thousands of years 

later, and the ruins have become an open-air, 

improvised stage that welcomes thousands of 

locals and tourists every summer. 

Opera, dance, cinema, theatre, great symphonic 

music, jazz and pop. The Rome Opera House‘s 

summer programme becomes a festival: the 

Caracalla Festival 2023, with 50 evenings 

planned, from 30 May to 10 August, to be held 

at the usual location, Teatro Grande, by the old 

thermal baths of Caracalla, and at a new location, 

Teatro del Portico, by the tempio di Giove (Jupiter’s 

temple). 

August Program 

July 21- August 9: La Traviata (Opera) 

2 – 6 August: Concerti Aperitivo Jazz (Music) 

3 – 10 August: Rigoletto (Opera) 

7 August: New Generation Fratelli Cutello 

JAZZ & IMAGE 2023 

MUSIC FESTIVAL 

Until October 15 

Viale Parco del Celio 

jazzimage.it 

Experience the magic of jazz (and not only) 

concerts facing the Colosseum at JAZZ&IMAGE, 

hosted by Rome’s Alexanderplatz Jazz Club. 

From now until October 15, enjoy captivating 

performances by both local and international 

musicians in the breathtaking setting of Parco 

del Celio. The entrance is free until 8.30pm and 

then tickets are available from 5 euros. Immerse 

yourself in the soulful melodies while savoring 

delicious Italian treats at the food and beverage 

section. Rome becomes the capital of jazz, 

creating an unforgettable experience for music 

enthusiasts. 

BOOK YOUR JAZZ CONCERT 

WITH DINNER AT JAZZ&IMAGE 

https://rb.gy/ax0jw 

SUMMERTIME 2023 

JAZZ FESTIVAL 

Until August 6 

Casa del Jazz 

Viale di Porta Ardeatina, 55 

casajazz.it 

Summertime is the summer edition dedicated 

to jazz hosted at Villa Osio, bringing every 

evening a diverse selection of jazz musicians 

to Rome to play till August 6th in the venue’s 

garden, adding an edgier side to the city’s 

summer music scene. The series is a roundup 

of contemporary jazz, soul, funk, hip-hop, 

electro and spoken word. The performances 

in store this month include Flamenco Tango 

Neapolis (01/08), Elisabetta Serio Quartet 

special guest Sarah Jane Morris (02/08), 

Musica Nuda (03/08), Frida Bollani Magoni 

(04/08), James Senese (05/08), and 

Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio (06/08). 

38 ROMEING 

ROMEING 39 


EVENTS 


EVENTS 


GIGI PROIETTI GLOBE 

THEATRE SILVANO TOTI 

PERFORMING ARTS 

Until 24 September 

Largo Aqua Felix (Piazza di Siena), 

Villa Borghese 

globetheatreroma.com 

The Globe Theater in Villa Borghese is back for 

its 20th edition. This summer 2023 you can 

experience Shakespeare’s famous plays in the 

Globe Arena; the season kicks off on July 15 

with Much Ado About Nothing, (till July 30). On 

July 17-18 and 24-25, Love Sonnets, followed 

by The Tempest (August 2-6). Midsummer 

Night’s Dream will be then displayed from 

August 9 to 27, followed by Shakespeare Show 

Case (August 21-22, September 4-5 and 

11-12). 

CONCERTI DEL TEMPIETTO 

MUSIC FESTIVAL 

Untill 1 October 

Church of Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli 

Piazza di Campitelli, 9 

Concerts begin at 8.30pm 

tempietto.eu 

Take in an evening of live music with 

Rome’s only surviving ancient theater, Teatro 

Marcello (built by Augustus in 13 BC) as your 

backdrop. From solo piano to classical guitar, 

from bel canto arias to string quartets, hear 

music by Schubert, Liszt, Gershwin, Piazzolla, 

Debussy, Haydn, and other legendary 

composers. As part of the Festival Musicale 

delle Nazioni, the historic Roman music 

festival, Concerti del Tempietto presents its 

new edition for the 2023 summer. Among 

the remains of the Temple of Apollo Sosianus, 

in the cloister adjacent to the church of 

Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli, for 

three months young musicians and famous 

performers will be on stage every evening. 

For more information, check out the series’ 

website. 

LUNGO IL TEVERE 2023 

NIGHTLIFE 

Untill August 27 

Daily 7pm – 2am 

Along the Tiber Banks 

between Ponte Sublicio & Ponte Sisto 

lungoiltevereroma.it 

The fun riverside summer fair Lungo Il Tevere 

is back. One bank of the Tiber River is once 

again hosting popup restaurants, bars, shops, 

exhibits, foosball tables and experiences of all 

kinds. From Ponte Sisto all the way to Ponte 

Sublicio, with two access points by the two 

bridges, the Eternal City is taking back over 

one kilometer of space to entertain Romans 

and tourists alike. Take a stroll along the river 

and do some vintage shopping, admire the 

photographic and cinematic exhibits, take a 

picture or two, play some games and then 

stop for a drink or a bite at one of the many 

restaurants. Perfect for a different aperitivo 

or dinner than you would normally have in 

Trastevere. 

FISH&WINE 

FOOD 

June 12 – September 3 

Pizza e Cucina Restaurant @ Eataly Rome 

Piazzale 12 Ottobre 1492 

Lunch: Mon–Fri 12pm-3.30pm; 

Sat & Sun: 12pm-4pm 

Dinner: Mon–Sun 7pm-10.30pm 

eatalyroma 

Seafood returns as the protagonist of 

Eataly’s summer edition of Fish & Wine – a 

festival that spans from events and tastings 

dedicated to seafood that will take place 

from July 12th to September 3th with new 

seafood dishes to Eataly’s menu. Fish & Wine 

will celebrate every two weeks one maritime 

Italian region with their culinary traditions and 

wineries at the Pizza & Cucina restaurant, 

accompanied by a regional menu with a fixed 

price of €30. In August, you’ll be able to try 

a 3-course tasting menu from Apulia (till 6 

August), Tuscany (7-20 August), and Lazio 

(21 August-3 September) 

40 ROMEING 

ROMEING 41 


MOONLIT MOVIE NIGHTS 

CINEMA 

Various locations 

What better way to escape the August heat 

than watching a movie under the night sky 

with a friend or a few as you sip a cold drink, 

bite into a slice of pizza, or eat a delicious 

gelato? Luckily, the season of moonlit movie 

nights continues with more dates, screenings, 

and special guests in various locations within 

the Eternal City. 

The events hosted by Cinema America 

at Cinema in Piazza are over for 2023, 

but the magical Casa del Cinema in the 

heart of Villa Borghese still has a lot to (info 

casadelcinema.it). Every day of the week, a 

new screening dedicated to the stars of Italian 

and international cinema awaits you starting 

at 9.30pm, free of charge. 

At Piazza Vittorio in Esquilino, the 23rd edition 

of “Nights of Cinema at Piazza Vittorio,” 

as well as “Cinema under the Stars” at 

Monteverde in Largo Alessandrina Ravizza, 

continues until September with screenings 

of this season’s greatest successes. Info: 

cinevillageroma.it 

There are plenty of other arenas and open 

spaces in Rome offering all kinds of movies, 

from classics to previews to new releases 

to indie productions to Oscar-winning 

films. Among the many locations, Arena 

Garbatella has over 500 seats and is 

showing a film per night until September 

10 (info: arenagarbatella.it); Arena Tiziano 

is on till September in Via Guido Reni, 2. 

Some are completely free of charge and 

some have an entry fee; some also require a 

reservation, so make sure to check out their 

respective websites to view their rules and 

programmings. 

42 ROMEING 

ROMEING 43 


Sagre Around Rome 

Sagras are perhaps an Italian foodie’s best-kept secret. These rustic festivals have 

centuries-long traditions and are very tied to the land and the people hosting them. 

Sagre center around regional produce or recipes or drinks or ingredients, and are 

composed of vendors offering samples of their products and dishes starring the 

protagonist of the sagra. Often there are also competitions and different sorts of events. 

If you want to try some delicious food that you might not always come across in the 

City, check out this list of top 8 sagre happening this August in Latium! 

Sagra dei Cecapreti e della Bufaletta 

Cecapreti pasta and buffalo meat 

3 August 

Villa San Stefano (FR) 

Sagra del Vino di Monticelli 

Monticelli wine 

8-9 August 

Esperia (FR) 

Sagra della Lumaca 

Snails 


Graffignano (VT) 

Sagra delle Pappardelle 

Pappardelle pasta 


Canale Montenaro (RM) 

Sagra delle Fettuccine con i Funghi 

Porcini 

Fettuccine pasta with porcini 

mushrooms 


Ascrea (RI) 

Sagra delle Fettuccine 

con i Funghi Porcini e Tartufo 

Fettuccine pasta with porcini 

mushrooms and truffles 


Arpino (FR) 

Sagra della Pizza Fritta Nerolese 

Nerolese Fried Pizza 


Nerola (RM) 

Sagra degli Gnocchi 

Gnocchi 


Canterano (RM) 

44 ROMEING 

ROMEING 45 


Best Concerts in Rome 

in August 2023 

Benjamin Clementine 

When: August 2 

Where: Auditorium Parco della Musica 

(Viale Pietro de Coubertin, 30) 

Tickets: from €34.50 

Concerti Aperitivo Jazz 

When: August 2 – 4 - 6 

Where: Teatro del Portico delle Terme 

di Caracalla (Viale delle Terme di 

Caracalla) 

Tickets: €20 

James Senese 


Where: Casa del Jazz (Viale di Porta 

Ardeatina, 55) 


The Magical Music of 

Harry Potter 




Tickets: from €35 

ONLINE MEDICAL 

CONSULTATION 

Frida Bollani 


Where: Casa del Jazz (Viale di Porta 

Ardeatina, 55) 


Imagine Dragons 


Where: Circo Massimo (Via del Circo 

Massimo) 

Tickets: from €74.50 

Carmen Consoli & Elvis 

Costello 




Tickets: from €40 

46 ROMEING 

ROMEING 47 


ART & 

CULT 

p 

Paola Morotti 

“ 

Picasso was undoubtedly one of the most brilliant graphic artists in 

the history of art. His impressive artistic career included a series of 

etchings in which he captured his obsessions: portraits of women, 

the passionate meeting between the painter and the model, and the 

history of painting itself 

Curator, Fernando Castro Flórez 

“ 

Until 5 November 2023 

Galleria Nazionale d’arte Moderna e Contemporanea 

Viale delle Belle Arti, 131 

Open from Tuesday to Sunday, 9am – 7pm 

Tickets: Regular € 10; reduced: €7,00 | € 5,00 | € 2,00 

lagallerianazionale.com 

Tracing Picasso’s art journey 

through his drawings and 

etchings 

Pablo Picasso’s impressive artworks have 

landed in Rome and will be on display at the 

Galleria Nazionale until the 5th November 

2023. More than 300 works will guide the 

gallery’s visitors into the Spanish artist’s 

universe, made of thin drawings, geometries, 

still life objects and hundreds of female 

figures. 

The exhibition, curated by Fernando Castro 

Flórez, gathers an impressive collection 

from the Museo Casa Natale Picasso di 

Malaga and it represents one of the many 

international initiatives organized to honour 

the 50th anniversary of Picasso’s death or 

PICASSO 

THE MALAGA COLLECTION 

ON DISPLAY AT THE 

GALLERIA NAZIONALE 

the “Año Picasso”. 

The show is also an opportunity to reflect 

on Picasso’s legacy in Rome. Many Roman 

residents will remember that another 

important show by Picasso took place in the 

eternal city, in 1953, right at the Galleria 

Nazionale. This time visitors will have the 

unique chance to take a look at the official 

correspondence, photos, press releases, 

newspapers announcing the exhibition at the 

time. Although the historical context in which 

that exhibition took place is very different 

from today’s, perhaps Picasso’s obsessive 

and at the same time metamorphic gaze 

allows us to modulate our desires and to 

understand what we need, stated the curator. 

The gallery presents drawings dating 

between 1905 and 1972 and it offers 

a comprehensive review of Picasso’s 

imaginary, allowing visitors to rediscover 

the ideas and the preparation behind 

Picasso’s most famous oil paintings. 

Among the most dated etchings we find 

works such as Salome or The danza 

barbara, executed in drypoint in 1905 in 

Paris. A group of 29 etchings belongs to 

the illustrations of Metamorphoses 

by Ovid (1930-31), while in the 

illustration work for The unknown 

© Succession Picasso by SIAE 2023 

masterpiece by Balzac, with 8 etchings 

courtesy Museo Casa Natal Picasso, Malaga 

(1927-31) the main theme is the artist 

and his own work. Of considerable interest are the two etchings entitled Sueño y mentira de 

Franco, which trace the drama of the Spanish Civil War. 

More frequently than anything else, depictions of women are at the centre of Picasso’s 

production – it is evident when walking through the gallery. Picasso suggests countless 

variations of the same woman, such as the portrait of Francoise Gilot, the Dos mujeres 

desnudas (1945) and the representation of Jaqueline Roque (1958). 

A restless and curious spirit, with his omnivorous and inclusive gaze, 

Picasso not only invented and reinvented languages but he also 

found himself in such an exemplary way that he remained identical, 

however recognizable in the experimentations and interpretations of 

his own style 

Director Cristiana Collu 

48 ROMEING 

ROMEING 49 


“ 

“

THIS MONTH IN 

MUSEUMS 

ARA PACIS 

Lungotevere in Augusta 

CINECITTA’ STUDIOS 

Via Tuscolana 1055 

CENTRALE 

MONTEMARTINI 

Metro Flaminio Metro Cinecittà 

Via Ostiense, 106 

Metro Piramide 

FRENCH ACADEMY IN 

ROME. VILLA MEDICI 

Viale Trinità dei Monti, 1 

Metro Spagna. Bus 117 from 

Termini Station 

GALLERIA NAZIONALE 

D’ARTE MODERNA E 

CONTEMPORANEA 

Viale delle Belle Arti, 131 

Metro Flaminio 

GAGOSIAN GALLERY 

Via Francesco Crispi, 34 

Metro Barberini 

a 1 

€ entry fee €14-16 

a 1 TILL 3 SEPTEMBER 

a € entry fee €5-10 c 

i i 

1 TILL 25 SEPTEMBER 

arapacis.it 

c Tue-Sun 9am-7pm 

c Mon-Sun 10am-7pm (closed i lagallerianazionale.com € 

€ Entry fee €9-10 

on Tuesday) 

i 

i centralemontemartini.org 

€ €9-12 (Guided tours Villa 

Medici gardens + exhibition) 

CIRCO MASSIMO 

i villamedici.it 

COLOSSEO 

CHIOSTRO DEL 

Viale Aventino 

BRAMANTE 

Metro Circo Massimo 

Metro Colosseo 

Arco della Pace, 5 

Bus 64 from Termini Station 

4 PICASSO METAMORFICO 

a 1 TILL 5 NOVEMBER 



4 VILLA MEDICI FESTIVAL i lagallerianazionale.com 4 

DES CABANES 

4 GLADIATORI NELL’ARENA 

a 

4 

1 TILL 1 OCTOBER 

CIRCO MAXIMO 

TRA COLOSSEO E LUDUS 

c Mon-Sun 10am-7pm (closed 

a 

4 MICHELANGELO 

EXPERIENCE 

MAGNUS 

on Tuesday) 

c 

1 

PISTOLETTO. INFINITY. 


a 1 TILL 15 OCTOBER € entry fee €10-12 a 1 TILL Everyday 7 JANUARY 9am-7.15pm 

2024 


i 

c 

i villamedici.it 

c Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat-Sun 

10am-8pm 

€ Mon-Fri €15; Sat-Sun €18 

i chiostrodelbramante.it 

50 

4 LEX. GIUSTIZIA E DIRITTO 

DALL’ETRURIA A ROMA 


c Everyday 9.30am-7.30pm 

1 

WWW.ROMEING.IT/EXHIBITIONS-IN-ROME 

a 1 

4 CINECITTA’ SHOWS OFF 

c Everyday except Tuesday 

10am-6pm 

€ entry fee €7-15 (exhibition + 

outdoor set visit) 

cinecittasimostra.it 

circomaximoexperience.it/en/ 

4 event c time € price i site 

4 COLOURS OF THE 

ROMANS. MOSAICS 

FROM THE CAPITOLINE 

COLLECTIONS 

€ i 

Piazza del Colosseo 

Entry to the exhibition is 

included in the Colosseum 

tickets 

parcocolosseo.it 

4 BAD TIMING | THÉO 

MERCIER EXHIBITION 

4 TIME IS OUT OF JOINT 4 ALEX ISRAEL | FINS 


TILL 9 SEPTEMBER 

Tue–Sat 10.30am–7pm 

free admission 

gagosian.com 

DOMUS AUREA 

Via della Domus Aurea, 1 


L’AMATO DI ISIDE. 

NERONE, LA DOMUS 

AUREA E L’EGITTO 

TILL 14 JANUARY 2024 

Everyday 9am-5pm 

€ entry fee €23 i parcocolosseo.it 

ROMEING date 

ROMEING 51 



THIS MONTH IN 

MUSEUMS 

MAXXI 

Via Guido Reni, 4/a 

Bus 2 from Flaminio Station 

MUSEI CAPITOLINI MUSEO DI ROMA 

MUSEO DI ROMA IN 

PALAZZO BRASCHI 

Piazza del Campidoglio, 1 

TRASTEVERE 

Metro Colosseo Via del Corso, 320 

Piazza di Sant’Egidio, 1/b 

Metro Spagna/Barberini 

Bus H from Termini Station 

PALAZZO BONAPARTE 

Piazza Venezia, 5 


PALAZZO DELLE 

ESPOSIZIONI 

Via del Corso, 320 

Metro Spagna/Barberini 

52 

4 SEMBRA VIVO! 

4 ARCHITETTURE A REGOLA 4 CAESAR’S HERITAGE AND 4 VIS-À-VIS. TENERANI 

HYPERREALIST 

D’ARTE 

THE CONQUEST OF TIME a 1 SPINA. DIALOGO IN 

4 

4 VITA DULCIS. FEAR AND 

PEGGY KLEIBER. TUTTI I SCULPTURES 

a a 1 TILL 24 SEPTEMBER 

GIORNI DELLA VITA 

1 TILL 15 OCTOBER 

c IMMAGINI 

DESIRE IN THE ROMAN 

EXHIBITION. 

c Tue-Sun 11am-7pm c Everyday 9.30am-7.30pm € TILL 12 NOVEMBER 

EMPIRE 

a 1 TILL 15 OCTOBER 

€ entry fee €11-13 i 

entry fee €9-12 

Tue-Sun 10am-7pm 

a 


1 TILL 8 OCTOBER a 

€ 

1 TILL 27 AUGUST 

fondazionemaxxi.it i museicapitolini.org 


c Mon-Sun 10am-8pm 

i 

€ entry fee €7,5-9,5 


museodiroma.it 

€ entry fee €17.50 - 9.50 

i museodiromaintrastevere.it 

€ entry fee €8-10 (until 4 

i mostrepalazzobonaparte.it May); €10-12,5 (from 5 

May) 

i palazzoesposizioni.it 

MUSEO CARLO BILOTTI 

RHINOCEROS GALLERY MATTATOIO ROMA 

Viale Fiorello La Guardia 

Via dei Cerchi, 21 

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani, 4 SCUDERIE DEL 

Metro Flaminio 

Metro Circo Massimo 

Metro Piramide 

QUIRINALE 

Via XXIV Maggio 16 

Metro Repubblica 

4 LA ROMA DELLA 

4 ENZO CUCCHI 

REPUBBLICA. 


IL RACCONTO 



DELL’ARCHEOLOGIA 

€ 

fondazionemaxxi.it a 1 TILL 24 SEPTEMBER 

i 

4 RITRATTE. DONNE DI 

4 CONTRA SPEM SPERO. 

c Everyday 9.30am-7.30pm 

ARTE E DI SCIENZA 

STORIE DALL’UCRAINA 

€ entry fee €11-13 a 

i museicapitolini.org 

1 TILL 10 SEPTEMBER 

4 LADY 

a1 TILL 27 AUGUST 

c Tue-Fri 1pm-7pm; Sat-Sun 

c Tue-Sun 11am-8pm 4 ITALY AS A DESIRE 

ALDA PRESENTS 

10am-7pm 

€ free entrance 


c Everyday 12pm-8pm 


i mattatoioroma.it c Everyday from 10am to 


i museocarlobilotti.it 

8pm 

i rhinocerosroma.com 


i scuderiequirinale.it 

WWW.ROMEING.IT/EXHIBITIONS-IN-ROME 

1 

a 1 

4 event c time € price i site 

ROMEING date 

ROMEING 53 



YAN PEI-MING’S “PAINTING STORIES” 

FLORENCE 

The exhibit begins in a room featuring an 

arresting self-portrait series titled Nom D’un 

Chien! Un jour parfait (Dammit! A perfect 

day), setting the tone for the paintings that 

follow. The artist portrays himself in a pose 

reminiscent of Christ on the cross, suspended 

in front of a murky backdrop, the outline of 

the body almost blurred with the grayish, hazy 

surface it emerges from, fists clenched. 

Yan Pei-Ming’s “Painting Stories” 

In collaboration with the Fondazione Hillary Merkus Recordati, 

over 30 works by renowned contemporary painter Yan Pei-Ming 

are now on display at Palazzo Strozzi 

p 

Remy Smith 

Until 3 September, 2023 

Palazzo Strozzi 

Opening Hours: Every day 10am-8pm, Thursday till 11pm 

Entry Fee: €15 

palazzostrozzi.org 

Expansive, evocative paintings by French-Chinese artist Yan Pei-Ming are gracing 

the walls of Palazzo Strozzi From July 7 to September 3 in what is the largest 

exhibition ever dedicated to the painter in Italy. With subjects that range from the 

personal to the politically subversive, Yan Pei-Ming ignites a dialogue about the past 

and present with a collection of works titled Painting Stories, synthesizing intimate 

scenes and historical imagery through contemporary modes of artistic expression. 

Drawing on several wide-ranging sources of inspiration — famous paintings, 

political iconography, moving depictions of family – Yan Pei-Ming invites the viewer 

to reflect on the powerful messages behind his larger-than-life portaints, using 

influences from both eastern and western artistic traditions. 

Nom d’un chien! Un jour parfait, 2012, Private Collection, 

Photography: André Morin, ©Yan Pei-Ming, ADAGP, 

Paris, 2023 

In the next room are three works dedicated to Yan 

Pai-Ming’s mother. With a large-scale, black-andwhite 

painting, the artist portrays his mother staring 

expressively at the viewer, eyes deep-set with palpable 

emotion, brow furrowed – the only portrait made by the 

artist during her lifetime. 

On another wall a colorful, vibrant orange and yellow 

painting of the Buddha sits in meditative contemplation - 

contrasted with the western religious evocation of Christ 

in his self-portraits - a reference meant to honor the 

profound piety of Yan Pei-Ming’s mother and his religious 

upbringing. 

Opposite the painting is a cart which has 

been layered with paint unused after the 

completion of his portraits, the only work 

reminiscent of sculpture in the exhibit. 

Bouddha pour ma mère, 2023, Courtesy MAS- 

SIMODECARLO e Thaddaeus Ropac gallery, 

Photography: Clérin-Morin ©Yan Pei-Ming, 

ADAGP, Paris, 2023 

54 ROMEING 

ROMEING 55 




Moving into the adjacent room, the 

viewer finds a reworking of Leonardo 

da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, flanked by 

personal images of the artist as he 

imagines himself at his own funeral, 

and his father in a hospital bed. 

“ 

“History plays a fundamental role in my work,” a quote from 

the artist reads, “partially because it is governed by the conflict 

between life and death, or the idea of the end of the human 

condition. I believe it is this constant struggle that moves us.” 

“ 

Les Funérailles de Monna Lisa, 2009, Private Collection, 



Another room titled Paper Tiger features 

iconography and images westerners 

typically associate with China. Each of 

the four walls reveals a bright red portrait 

of a unique symbolic person or animal: 

Bruce Lee, Mao Zedong, the Dragon, 

the Tiger. The dragon – barely visible at 

first to the naked eye – emerges slowly 

from the red fog. A quote attributed to 

the artist reads. “I assume I am both a 

Chinese and a European artist, but I am 

first of all an artist.” 

Here, Yan Pei-Ming highlights 

influences taken from western art as 

he interjects his own struggle to make 

sense of death and the relationship 

between father and son into a dialogue 

with the most iconic portrait in art 

history. 

Tigre rouge vermillion de Chine, Courtesy MASSIMODECARLO 

e Thaddaeus Ropac gallery, Photography: Clérin-Morin ©Yan Pei- 

Ming, ADAGP, Paris, 2023 

Following the line of the artist’s portrait of Mao 

Zedong, politically subversive imagery dominates 

the adjoining room. Images of Vladimir Putin’s 

2007 Time magazine “Person of the Year” 

cover is confronted by the 2022 cover featuring 

Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky in two 

triptychs that face off with one another. Next to 

the portraits is a long, blood-red piece depicting 

a “field of skulls,” evoking the horrors and 

atrocities committed during wartime. 

The exhibition of Yan Pei-Ming’s work in Palazzo 

Strozzi leaves the viewer with much to consider: 

what humanity is capable of, who we are now 

and what we can learn from who we once were. 

Vladimir Putin, Tsar of The New Russia, Private Collection, 



Read about all the things to explore and do in Florence on 

romeing.it/florence 

56 ROMEING 

ROMEING 57 


SHOP INDEPENDENT 

ARTISANS 

romeing.it/shop/craft-matters 

“Craft Matters” seeks out Italian artisans and 

craftspeople with unique, handmade products to 

share with the global community.

Romeing Magazine - August 2023

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